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When a property as prominent as the former Mojo/Lopez spot in Cleveland Heights comes on the market, talk rapidly shifts to possibilities. In the days and weeks that followed the closure of that restaurant, the chatter in local coffee shops, bakeries and restaurants up and down Lee Road was dominated by the “wishing game.” Punters of all stripes tossed out best-case scenarios featuring big-name chefs, red-hot concepts and underrepresented cuisines.
Ironically, few of the countless neighbors I spoke with in those days mentioned Mexican – and yet, when announced, the development seemed to have delighted the widest possible audience. And when the name Cozumel was revealed, the response was near-universal in joy – because when it comes to pleasure-dining, few restaurants manage to cultivate joy better than this home-grown brand.
While Northeast Ohio has no shortage of locally owned Mexican restaurants, Cozumel has risen to the top thanks to a collection of well-run and well-placed locations that span the region. Partners Ramon Aguirre, Jaime Delapaz and Martin Soto opened their first store in Broadview Heights in 2001. They went on to open seven more locations, from Westlake to Brunswick. So when the opportunity to open a location on the east side of town arose, the owners pounced on it.
Since opening in September, Lee Road’s newcomer has been reliably busy, with diners filling the seats both inside the dining room and out on the unseasonably warm patio. The owners are a frequent sight at the restaurant, seeding the place with a culture of service, hospitality and comfort that diners have come to expect from the brand. While each location has its own staff, charms and quirks, they all dish up the same roster of approachable, affordable and satisfying Mexican and Tex-Mex-style foods. With this location – and Parma before it – Cozumel has adopted a more contemporary if spare décor, leaving behind the dark woods, faux stone and kitschy trimmings.
Unlike most restaurant groups that reach this size, Cozumel has avoided the adoption of a commissary, those centralized kitchens that prepare foods in bulk for multiple locations. Instead, they prefer to fry the chips, blend the salsas, steam the tamales and roll the burritos onsite to ensure freshness.
We all know that the number one reason we head to the neighborhood taqueria is for the bottomless chips and salsa. At Cozumel, baskets of warm, thin, crisp and not-too-salty chips land on the table within moments. The house salsa is fresh and bright, but for a bigger kick diners can request versions made with habanero or chile de arbol.
To start, there’s queso fundido, ceviche, taquitos and a unique “chunk” guacamole ($9.85) that features large pieces of avocado, onion, bell pepper and a choice of corn, mango or jalapeno. The Cozumel soup ($4.75) combines a flavorful broth with tender shredded chicken, pico de gallo and rice. It’s topped with tortilla chips. Poblanos are stuffed with cheese and served with ranchero sauce as an appetizer ($3.90) or transformed into an entrée ($17.95) with the addition of ground beef inside and rice and beans on the side.
There are few more expansive menus than this one, jammed with items like tacos, quesadillas, burritos, enchiladas, tostadas and chalupas that can be filled, mixed and matched in near-limitless ways. Fajita lovers have their pick of meat or seafood – or can opt for combos like beef and chicken ($21.55). The customary sizzling platter is loaded with meat and crisp-tender bell peppers, grilled onions and mushrooms. A shrimp and garlic dish ($23.95) is every bit as fresh, fragrant and appealing as those enjoyed in beach towns up and down the Riviera Maya. Carnitas-filled enchiladas Aztecas ($15.75) are capped with housemade chorizo, tomatillo sauce and melted cheese.
Cozumel quietly launched birria tacos last year as a “secret menu” item, but the favorable response promoted the dish to regular status. An order ($15) includes three soft corn-tortilla wrapped tacos filled with tender braised beef, diced onions and fresh cilantro. Dunking them into the accompanying consommé turns them into drippy flavor bombs.
It’s been said that we often don’t know what we want until it lands on our doorstep. For residents in the food-obsessed neighborhood of Cleveland Heights, that seems to be the case with Cozumel. Few cuisines manage to gratify such a diverse group of diners as does traditional Mexican. And given that Cozumel serves lunch and dinner seven days a week, the door is always open to fans young and old, seasoned and new.
Cozumel Mexican Restaurant
2196 Lee Rd., Cleveland Hts.
216-331-4310
cozumel.us
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Douglas Trattner
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