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  • Easter dishes from around the world | CNN

    Easter dishes from around the world | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    Honey-glazed ham, garlic mashed potatoes and fluffy dinner rolls might be staples at American Easter meals, but around the world, there are many distinct ways to savor the holiday – ones that incorporate both local ingredients and unique cultural traditions.

    “Italians go all out,” said Judy Witts Francini, creator of the Italian food blog Divina Cucina. She’s from California but has lived in Florence and Tuscany for decades.

    Witts Francini’s Easter lunch starts with an assortment of antipasti. For the first course, she serves a savory tart called torta pasqualina, which has 33 layers of phyllo dough to symbolize the 33 years of Christ’s life. The second course includes roast lamb, fried artichokes, peas with pancetta and roasted potatoes. Dessert is chocolate eggs (which can be up to 3 feet tall) with a gift inside and a dove-shaped cake, called colomba.

    And that’s just lunch.

    Other countries take a similar “more is more” approach to Easter meals, but a few dishes really stand out. Here are just five.

    Before you roll your eyes at the mere mention of this circular classic, know that the pizza Italians crave on Easter bears little resemblance to what you find on most US delivery menus.

    Pizza rustica, also known as pizzagaina, is stuffed with meat and cheese and enclosed in a flaky crust. Like most Italian recipes, pizza rustica varies from region to region, town to town and chef to chef. It originally comes from Naples, which is known as the birthplace of pizza.

    “It’s basically a ricotta cheesecake, but it’s super savory – to the max,” said Rossella Rago, an Italian American author and host of the popular online cooking show “Cooking with Nonna” who wrote a cookbook with the same name.

    To make the pie, first, you need to make the pastry dough, which includes flour, eggs, salt, milk and lard.

    “Everybody always asks me, ‘Can I make this with shortening?’ And the answer is always: ‘No,’” Rago said. “If it’s any other time of year, I will say, ‘Yes, fine, use shortening,’ but when it’s actually Easter you have got to use lard.”

    Inside, the pie – at least Rago’s version – contains ricotta, provolone, mozzarella, soppressata (an Italian dry salami), prosciutto, eggs and more.

    “Everybody has their own combination that they swear by. If you want Italian people to fight right now, ask them, ‘What’s the real pizzagaina?’ That’s what everybody is obsessed with in Italian America,” Rago said. “It makes me laugh every single time, because there is no right way. It’s ridiculous to think that.

    “Italy had 600 languages until its unification,” Rago added. “So, you think we have one recipe for anything? Absolutely not.”

    Nonna Romana holds scarcella, a braided Easter bread decorated with colorful hard-boiled eggs. Her granddaughter, Rossella Rago, said Romana made them every Easter for all the kids.

    Rago’s recipe is from her grandma, Nonna Romana, and is a true Italian American story. Romana is from Puglia, a region in southern Italy where they don’t make the dish. She learned about it from other Italian Americans while she was working at a clothing factory in Brooklyn, New York. She took their version and made some additions and subtractions. After years and years of tweaks, she created her own Italian American tradition.

    “She swears it’s the best,” Rago said. Her secret is extra-sharp provolone. Rago said it’s one of the most popular dishes on her website, and everyone who tries it says they have success their first try.

    Traditionally, this dish is made on Good Friday and served at room temperature on Easter Sunday.

    The Mexican dessert capirotada is a next-level bread pudding scented with cinnamon and cloves.

    When you think of authentic Mexican cuisine, there are many things that come to mind: rice, beans and tortillas, to name a few.

    Now, you can add capirotada to the list.

    Capirotada is a Mexican dessert that’s similar to bread pudding. It’s made from bread drenched in syrup and layered among nuts, cheese, fruit and sometimes sprinkles.

    “If you are into salty, sweet, soft, crunchy, spongy mixed all together with a dash of spice, this is for you,” said Mely Martinez, creator of the blog Mexico in My Kitchen. “Yes, this concoction sounds really weird, but it is an explosion of flavors in your mouth.”

    Martinez was born and raised in Tampico, Mexico. She serves this dish for dessert every Easter.

    Mely Martinez is the creator of Mexico in My Kitchen. She was born and raised in Mexico.

    To make Martinez’s traditional capirotada, layers of sliced white bread are baked with butter and then dipped in syrup made from piloncillo (an unrefined type of sugar), cinnamon and cloves. The bread is placed in a ovenproof dish between layers of cotija cheese, roasted peanuts and raisins. It’s baked and then topped with bananas and sprinkles.

    Capirotada is usually served at room temperature on Easter Sunday, but many serve it throughout Holy Week.

    “It’s addicting. Once you start eating it, you can’t stop eating it,” Martinez told CNN.

    Brought to Mexico by the Spaniards, capirotada became popular in Mexico because it’s easy to make and uses ingredients people have on hand.

    It was originally a savory dish using beef broth, but evolved into today’s sweet version using syrup, according to Martinez. Some believe the bread represents the body of Christ and the syrup represents his blood.

    There are many variations of capirotada all over Mexico.

    Charbel Barker's capirotada has evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk, additions to the recipe by her abuelita.

    My Latina Table blogger Charbel Barker makes hers with milk. Her recipe was created by her “abuelita,” meaning grandma.

    “My abuelita would always say, it’s good but something is missing. It needs more sweetness,” Barker said. So she added two types of milk: evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk.

    Barker said the milk adds more flavor and creates a pudding-like texture.

    “It tastes like a Snickers,” Barker said.

    Poland: Żurek

    The savory Polish dish żurek, or sour rye soup, often is served with sausage and a boiled egg, along with horseradish for a spicy kick.

    In Poland, a dish that takes center stage on Easter is żurek. It’s a creamy and smoky fermented soup made from rye flour starter. This soup is often served with a boiled egg and sausage, and then garnished with spicy horseradish.

    Anna Hurning, the creator of the blog Polish Your Kitchen, was born and raised in Poland and now lives in Szczecin in the northwest region.

    Żurek is regarded as something of a national treasure in the Central European country.

    “It’s sour, tangy and meaty,” said Anna Hurning, the creator of the blog Polish Your Kitchen. Hurning was born and raised in Poland and now lives in the city of Szczecin.

    She makes żurek every Easter and serves it as an appetizer.

    To make the soup, first, you need to make a rye starter: Mix flour and cold water with aromatics (including garlic, allspice, peppercorns, marjoram and bay leaves). Then, let it sit on your counter for several days to ferment. Hurning said this is how it gets its “funky” flavor. Don’t be intimated by this step – she said it’s supereasy. You just let nature do the trick.

    Next, the sour starter is boiled with the soup base. Hurning’s version consists of bacon, carrots, parsnip and onion.

    This soup is served all over the country year-round and on Easter with many variations. Some have it with sauerkraut and smoked goat cheese. Others add potatoes and wild mushrooms.

    Singaporean beef murtabak is an egg crepe wrapped around ground beef served with fresh lime, chili sauce and raita.

    The cuisine in Singapore is truly a mélange of cultures: Chinese, Malay, Indian, Eurasian and Peranakan. Pinpointing dishes authentic to Singapore might seem like an impossible feat, but that’s exactly the endeavor chef Damian D’Silva has chosen.

    “If I don’t do anything to preserve the cuisine of our heritage, one day it will all disappear,” said D’Silva, chef at Rempapa in Singapore. He has been cooking heritage cuisine professionally for more than two decades.

    “The cuisine is very unique. You can have one dish in Singapore, but you have five different ways of preparing it,” he said. “And no one is wrong because every ethnicity puts in their own story and ingredients.”

    Chef Damian D'Silva showcases Singapore's heritage cuisine.

    D’Silva grew up in Singapore, and one of his childhood favorites was beef murtabak. His granddad made it on Easter and served it after Mass – marking the end of Lent. D’Silva remembers looking forward to the savory dish after going 40 days without meat.

    “When Easter happened, it was a celebration and, of course when it’s a celebration, the thing that comes to mind is meat,” he said. “We only ate beef on very, very special occasions.”

    Beef murtabak is an egg crepe wrapped around ground beef. The beef is marinated in curry powder, then cooked with an onion and garlic paste and spices (star anise, cinnamon and nutmeg). The dish is served with fresh lime, chili sauce and raita.

    “The aromatics are the one that lifts the entire dish and bring it to another level,” D’Silva said.

    D’Silva has tried to find the origin of the dish. But like many Singaporean dishes, it goes so far back that nobody knows where it started.

    D’Silva’s beef murtabak celebrates Singapore’s heritage.

    “Singapore is a lot more than chili crab and chicken rice. It’s a lot, lot more than that,” D’Silva said. “If you have an opportunity to go to a restaurant that serves Singapore’s heritage cuisine, go, because it’s mind-blowing: the flavor, the ingredients. Everything about it.”

    What sets apart Lola Osinkolu's Nigerian jollof rice is the added step of roasting the bell peppers, tomatoes, onion and garlic.

    Loud, large and plentiful – that’s how Lola Osinkolu, who’s behind the blog Chef Lola’s Kitchen, describes Easter in Nigeria.

    Osinkolu, who was born and raised in Nigeria, said after church Easter Sunday morning, her family would go home and start cooking.

    Osinkolu is the creator of Chef Lola's Kitchen. She was born and raised in Nigeria.

    “We cook, cook and cook. We would cook for hours.”

    The dish that was the star of the show? Nigerian jollof rice.

    Osinkolu compares the tomato-based rice dish – which likely originated in Senegal and spread to West African countries – to jambalaya. It’s a party staple in Nigeria.

    “It’s spicy and delicious,” she said.

    Jollof contains long-grain rice and Nigerian-style curry powder for seasoning, and there are many ways to cook the dish that involve endless permutations of meat, spices, chiles, onions and vegetables.

    Osinkolu’s recipe, called The Party Style With Beef, comes from her mom. But Osinkolu added her own secret step: roasting the bell peppers, tomatoes, onion and garlic.

    “At home, whenever we are having parties, we don’t cook our jollof rice on the stovetop. We use open fire, so the jollof rice has a smoky taste, which makes it more delicious,” Osinkolu said. “So, I roast the bell peppers to achieve a similar, or very close, taste. It makes a lot of difference.”

    Her jollof is so popular that she now knows to always make extra for her guests to take home. “I get the same comment over and over about how delicious it is,” she said.

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  • What is Nowruz? Persian New Year traditions and food explained | CNN

    What is Nowruz? Persian New Year traditions and food explained | CNN

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    Editor’s Note: Sign up for CNN’s Eat, But Better: Mediterranean Style. Our eight-part guide shows you a delicious expert-backed eating lifestyle that will boost your health for life.



    CNN
     — 

    Just as spring is a time for rebirth, the Persian New Year is a time to celebrate new life. Nowruz is celebrated on the spring equinox, which Tuesday, March 19.

    This celebration of spring is filled with symbolism around rebirth and renewal, because spring is a time when life is coming back after a long, cold winter, said Yasmin Khan, the London-based human rights campaigner turned author of “The Saffron Tales: Recipes from the Persian Kitchen,” “Zaitoun: Recipes and Stories from the Palestinian Kitchen,” and “Ripe Figs: Recipes and Stories from the Eastern Mediterranean.”

    These three cookbooks from Khan inspire and provide a window into the cultures and stories of people from the Middle East through food.

    The conversation has been edited and condensed for clarity.

    CNN: What are some of Persian New Year’s traditions and rituals?

    Yasmin Khan: On the last Tuesday before the New Year, there is a tradition to make small bonfires in your garden. Traditionally people jump over the bonfires, and it’s supposed to be a symbol of purification, challenges of the year gone by, and energetically cleansing you and preparing you for the year ahead.

    A key tradition is to set up an altar in your house called a Haft-seen, which means seven S’s in Farsi. You place seven things on your altar that begin with the letter S in Farsi, which are symbols or qualities you’d like to invite in for the year ahead. You can have apples for good health, candles for light, eggs for fertility, wheatgrass for rebirth and renewal, vinegar for wisdom, and a gold coin for abundance and prosperity. Each person chooses items that have meaning for them.

    The festival lasts two weeks. At the end of the festival, you take the wheatgrass you’ve been growing on your altar and you take it down to some running water somewhere. You tie knots in the wheatgrass then throw it into the running water. It would float off along with all your hopes and dreams for the year ahead.

    CNN: What food is important for the holiday?

    Khan: Like all cultural celebrations, food is a really integral part. Because it’s a festival celebrating spring, we eat lots of green and fresh herbs. For example, there’s this dish called Kuku Sabzi (see recipe below), which is a gorgeous herb and spinach frittata that we always eat on the first day of the year in our house. The frittata is fragrant and aromatic and is served with flatbreads, sliced tomatoes and pickles.

    The first meal of the Persian New Year is always fish served with herb-flecked rice filled with dill, parsley and chives in it. The two-week festival is a time of celebration with people you know … traditionally you go to people’s houses and eat lots of delicious sweets and pastries.

    CNN: What are some easy ways people can join in the celebrations?

    Khan: Cooking is probably the easiest and most fun way to celebrate the new year. I really recommend that people give some Persian recipes a go. As well as being delicious, they’re healthy and vibrant with all the herbs that are packed in them.

    In the weeks before the new year, we do a big deep spring cleaning called “shaking down the house” in Farsi. It’s really lovely to have a focus and have something that is about bringing in new life, renewal and rebirth during this difficult time.

    And no one regrets a spring clean, so I think that’s also a really great idea. I think this is a beautiful kind of nonreligious festival that everyone can join into and that we can all relate to. It’s a time where we really try and let go of any difficulties that we’ve had in the past year and try to start the new year with a clean slate.

    This Iranian frittata is a sensational deep green color and tastes like spring on a plate, bursting with fresh herby flavor. It is incredibly quick to throw together, will keep for a few days in the fridge, and can be enjoyed hot or cold.

    Serve as an appetizer or as part of a mezze spread, wrapped up in a flatbread with some slices of tomato and a few salty and sour fermented cucumber pickles, or add some crumbled feta and lightly toasted walnuts for a more substantial main.

    Makes 4 servings as a main or 8 servings as a starter

    Prep time: 15 minutes | Total time: 35 minutes

    Ingredients

    7 ounces|200 grams spinach

    1 3/4 ounces|50 grams fresh parsley

    1 3/4 ounces|50 grams fresh dill

    2 2/3 ounces|75 grams fresh cilantro

    5 medium eggs

    1/2 teaspoon turmeric

    2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

    1 teaspoon sea salt

    1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

    1 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaf

    2 teaspoons sunflower oil

    2 garlic cloves, crushed

    Instructions

    1. Wash spinach, parsley, dill and cilantro, then dry well on paper towels or in a salad spinner. Squeeze out as much moisture as possible; if the greens are wet when they are cooked, they will make the kuku go spongy. Chop finely or blitz in a food processor, in a couple of batches.

    2. Heat broiler to high. Crack eggs into a large mixing bowl. Add turmeric, flour, salt, pepper and fenugreek leaf. Stir in the chopped spinach and herbs.

    3. Heat oil in a large ovenproof skillet. Add garlic and gently fry over low heat to soften, about 2 minutes.

    4. Make sure garlic is evenly distributed around the skillet, then pour in the egg mixture. Cook over low heat until kuku is almost cooked through, 5-8 minutes. Finish off in hot broiler.

    5. Let kuku cool slightly, then cut into triangular slices to serve.

    This is typically the first meal served during Nowruz, according to cookbook author Yasmin Khan.

    Makes 4 servings

    Ingredients

    Marinade

    2 garlic cloves, minced

    1/2 cup dark soy sauce

    Juice of 1 medium lemon

    3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

    Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)

    4 salmon fillets

    Mixed herb rice

    1 3/4 cups white basmati rice

    Sea salt

    Pinch of saffron strands

    Pinch of granulated sugar

    2 tablespoons freshly boiled water

    1 small bunch fresh parsley, finely chopped

    1 small bunch fresh coriander, finely chopped

    2 tablespoons fresh dill, finely chopped

    2 tablespoons bunch fresh chives, finely chopped

    1 garlic clove, crushed

    Sunflower oil

    2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

    Instructions

    1. To make the marinade, combine garlic, soy sauce, lemon juice, olive oil and cayenne pepper, if using, in a deep bowl. Add salmon, turn to coat well, cover with plastic wrap and let marinate in the fridge for at least 30 minutes.

    2. Rinse and parboil rice and prepare the saffron liquid. Place saffron in a pestle and mortar with sugar and grind until you have a fine powder. Add just-boiled water and let steep for 10 minutes.

    3. Very carefully, fold rice, chopped herbs, garlic clove and 1 tablespoon oil together, being careful not to break the rice grains.

    4. Preheat oven to 400°F/Gas 6. Place an 8”-wide nonstick saucepan with snug-fitting lid over a medium heat. Melt 1 tablespoon butter with 2 tablespoons oil. Add 1 tablespoon saffron liquid and season with a pinch of salt. Once the fat is hot, sprinkle a thin layer of rice over the bottom and firmly press down to line the base of the pan. Using a large spoon, gently layer the rest of the rice on top, building it up into a pyramid shape. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, make 4 holes in the rice. Dot remaining 1 tablespoon butter into holes and then pour over the rest of the saffron liquid.

    5. Place a clean tea towel or 4 paper towels on top of the pan and fit the lid on tightly. Tuck in the edges of the tea towel, or trim paper towels to fit, so they won’t catch the flame. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, then reduce heat to very low and cook 15 minutes more. Take rice off heat and let sit. Do not be tempted to sneak a peek while it is cooking as this will disturb the steaming process. When rice has been cooking for 10 minutes, place salmon on a baking tray and bake skin side up until cooked to your liking, 10-15 minutes.

    6. Once rice has cooked, fill sink with 2” cold water and place saucepan – with lid still tightly on – in the water. This will produce a rush of steam that should loosen the base of the rice. Remove lid, place a large plate on top of pan and quickly turn rice over. Present the herbed rice with the fish and serve immediately.

    This recipes are adapted from Yasmin Khan’s book “The Saffron Tales: Recipes from the Persian Kitchen.”

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  • 50 of the world’s best breads | CNN

    50 of the world’s best breads | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    What is bread? You likely don’t have to think for long, and whether you’re hungry for a slice of sourdough or craving some tortillas, what you imagine says a lot about where you’re from.

    But if bread is easy to picture, it’s hard to define.

    Bread historian William Rubel argues that creating a strict definition of bread is unnecessary, even counterproductive. “Bread is basically what your culture says it is,” says Rubel, the author of “Bread: A Global History.” “It doesn’t need to be made with any particular kind of flour.”

    Instead, he likes to focus on what bread does: It turns staple grains such as wheat, rye or corn into durable foods that can be carried into the fields, used to feed an army or stored for winter.

    Even before the first agricultural societies formed around 10,000 BCE, hunter-gatherers in Jordan’s Black Desert made bread with tubers and domesticated grain.

    Today, the descendants of those early breads showcase the remarkable breadth of our world’s food traditions.

    In the rugged mountains of Germany’s Westphalia region, bakers steam loaves of dense rye for up to 24 hours, while a round of Armenian lavash made from wheat turns blistered and brown after 30 seconds inside a tandoor oven.

    Ethiopian cooks ferment injera’s ground-teff batter into a tart, bubbling brew, while the corn dough for Venezuelan arepas is patted straight onto a sizzling griddle.

    This list reflects that diversity. Along with memorable flavor, these breads are chosen for their unique ingredients, iconic status and the sheer, homey pleasure of eating them.

    From the rich layers of Malaysian roti canai to Turkey’s seed-crusted simit, they’re a journey through the essence of global comfort food – and a reminder that creativity, like bread, is a human inheritance.

    In alphabetical order by location, here are 50 of the world’s most wonderful breads.

    Golden blisters of crisp dough speckle a perfectly made bolani, but the real treasure of Afghanistan’s favorite flatbread is hidden inside.

    After rolling out the yeast-leavened dough into a thin sheet, Afghan bakers layer bolani with a generous filling of potatoes, spinach or lentils. Fresh herbs and scallions add bright flavor to the chewy, comforting dish, which gets a crispy crust when it’s fried in shimmering-hot oil.

    02 best breads travel

    When your Armenian mother-in-law comes towards you wielding a hula hoop-sized flatbread, don’t duck: Lavash is draped over the country’s newlyweds to ensure a life of abundance and prosperity.

    Maybe that’s because making lavash takes friends.

    To shape the traditional breads, groups of women gather to roll and stretch dough across a cushion padded with hay or wool. It takes a practiced hand to slap the enormous sheets onto the inside of conical clay ovens, where they bake quickly in the intense heat.

    The bread is so central to Armenia’s culture it’s been designated UNESCO Intangible Heritage.

    03 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    A traveler’s staple suited to life on the road, damper recalls Australia’s frontier days.

    It’s a simple blend of water, flour and salt that can be cooked directly in the ashes, pressed into a cast iron pan or even toasted at the end of a stick. These days, recipes often include some chemical leavening, butter and milk, turning the hearty backwoods fare into a more refined treat similar to Irish soda bread.

    04 best breads travel

    A dunk in hot oil turns soft wheat dough into a blistered, golden flatbread that’s a perfect pairing with the country’s aromatic curries.

    It’s a popular choice for breakfast in Bangladesh, often served with white potato curry, but you can find the puffy breads everywhere from Dhaka sidewalk stalls to home kitchens.

    05 best breads travel

    It’s a triumph of kitchen ingenuity that South America’s native cassava is eaten at all: The starchy root has enough naturally occurring cyanide to kill a human being.

    But by carefully treating cassava with a cycle of soaking, pressing and drying, many of the continent’s indigenous groups found a way to turn the root into an unlikely culinary star. Now, it’s the base for one of Brazil’s most snackable treats, a cheesy bread roll whose crisp crust gives way to a tender, lightly sour interior.

    06 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    The fire is always lit at Montreal’s Fairmount Bagel, which became the city’s first bagel bakery when it opened in 1919 under the name Montreal Bagel Bakery.

    Inside, bakers use long, slender wooden paddles to slide rows of bagels into the wood-fired oven, where they toast to a deep golden color.

    New Yorkers might think they have a monopoly on bagels, but the Montreal version is an entirely different delicacy.

    Here, bagel dough is mixed with egg and honey, and the hand-shaped rings are boiled in honey water before baking. The result is dense, chewy and lightly sweet, and you can buy them hot from the oven 24 hours a day.

    07 best breads travel

    An influx of European immigrants brought their wheat-bread traditions to Chile in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and the country’s favorite snack has descended from that cultural collision.

    Split into four lobes, the marraqueta has a pale, fluffy interior, but the ubiquitous roll is all about the crust. Bakers slide a pan of water into the oven to achieve an addictively crispy exterior that is a favorite part of the marraqueta for many Chileans.

    It’s a nourishing part of daily life, to the extent that when a Chilean wants to describe a child born to a life of plenty, they might say “nació con la marraqueta bajo el brazo,” or “they were born with a marraqueta under their arm.”

    08 best breads travel

    Crack into the sesame-seed crust of a shaobing to reveal tender layers that are rich with wheat flavor.

    Expert shaobing bakers whirl and slap the dough so thin that the finished product has 18 or more layers. The north Chinese flatbread can then be spiked with sweet or savory fillings, from black sesame paste to smoked meat or Sichuan pepper.

    09 best breads travel

    Melted lard lends a hint of savory flavor to loaves of pan Cubano, whose fluffy crumb offers a tender contrast to the crisp, cracker-like crust.

    Duck into a Cuban bakery, and you’ll likely spot the long, golden loaf with a pale seam down the center: Some bakers press a stripped palmetto leaf into the dough before baking to create a distinctive crack along the length of the bread.

    It’s popular from Havana to Miami, but it’s only stateside that you’ll find the loaves in “Cuban sandwiches,” which are thought to have been invented during the 19th century by Cubans living in Florida.

    10 best breads travel

    Bedouin tribes travel light in Egypt’s vast deserts, carrying sacks of wheat flour to make each day’s bread in the campfire.

    While some Bedouin breads are baked on hot metal sheets, libba is slapped directly into the embers. That powerful heat sears a crisp, browned crust onto the soft dough, leaving the inside steaming and moist.

    50 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Walk the streets of San Salvador, and you’ll never be far from the toasted-corn scent of cooking pupusas.

    The griddled corn bread is both a beloved snack and a national icon.

    To make pupusas, a cook wraps a filling of cheese, pork or spiced beans into tender corn dough, then pats the mixture onto a blazing-hot griddle. A bright topping of slaw-like curtido cuts through the fat and salt for a satisfying meal.

    It’s a flavor that’s endured through the centuries. At the UNESCO-listed site of Joya de Cerén, a Maya city buried by an erupting volcano, archaeologists have found cooking tools like those used to make pupusas that date to around 600 A.D.

    11 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    A constellation of bubbles pocks injera’s spongy surface, making this Ethiopian bread the perfect foil for the country’s rich sauces and stews.

    Also beloved in neighboring Eritrea and Somalia, injera is both a mealtime staple and the ultimate utensil – tear off tender pieces of moist, rolled-up bread to scoop food served on a communal platter.

    Made from an ancient – and ultra-nutritious – grain called teff, injera has a characteristically sour taste. It’s the result of a fermentation process that starts by blending fresh batter with cultures from a previous batch, then leaving the mixture to grow more flavorful over several days.

    12 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    The French may frown on eating on the go, but there’s an unofficial exception for “le quignon,” the crisp-baked end of a slender baguette.

    You’re allowed to break that off and munch it as you walk down the street – perhaps because the baguette has pride of place as a symbol of French culture.

    But like some of the greatest traditions, the baguette is a relatively recent invention.

    According to Paris food historian Jim Chevallier, long, narrow breads similar to modern baguettes gained prominence in the 19th century, and the first official mention is in a 1920 price list. (French President Emmanuel Macron nonetheless argues that the baguette deserves UNESCO status.)

    13 best breads travel

    Bubbling with fresh imeruli and sulguni cheeses, khachapuri might be the country of Georgia’s most beloved snack.

    The savory flatbread starts with soft, yeasted dough that’s pinched into a boat-shaped cradle, then baked with a generous filling of egg and cheese. An elongated shape maximizes the contrast in texture, from the tender interior to crisp, brown tips. Khachapuri experts know to break off the ends for swabbing in the rich, oozing filling.

    It’s such a key feature of Georgian cuisine that the Khachapuri Index is one measure of the country’s economic welfare; and in 2019, the country’s National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation named traditional khachapuri as UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Georgia.

    14 best breads travel

    Pure rye flour lends these iconic north German loaves impressive heft, along with a distinctive, mahogany hue.

    The most traditional versions are baked in a warm, steamy oven for up to 24 hours. It’s an unusual technique that helps transform sugars in the rye flour, turning naturally occurring sweetness into depth of flavor.

    Pumpernickel has been a specialty in Germany’s Westphalia region for hundreds of years, and there’s even a family-owned bakery in the town of Soest that’s made the hearty bread using the same recipe since 1570.

    15 best breads travel

    Hong Kong bakers outdo each other by crafting the softest, fluffiest breads imaginable, turning wheat flour into pillowy confections.

    Pai bao might be loftier than all the rest, thanks to a technique known as the Tangzhong method.

    When mixing the wheat dough, bakers add a small amount of cooked flour and water to the rest of the ingredients, a minor change with major impact on the bread’s structural development. The results? A wonderfully tender loaf that retains moisture for days, with a milky flavor that invites snacking out of hand.

    Dökkt rúgbrauð, Iceland

    16 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    The simmering, geothermal heat that powers Iceland’s geysers, hot springs and steam vents also provides a natural oven for this slow-baked Icelandic rye bread.

    Made with dark rye flour, the dough is enclosed in a metal pot before it’s buried in the warm ground near geothermal springs and other hotspots. When baked in the traditional method, dökkt rúgbrauð takes a full 24 hours to cook in the subterranean “oven.”

    It’s an ingenious use of an explosive natural resource, and in the hot-springs town of Laugarvatn, visitors can try loaves of dökkt rúgbrauð when it’s fresh from a hole in the black sand.

    17 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Flatbreads go wonderfully flaky in this whole-wheat Indian treat, which can be eaten plain or studded with savory fillings.

    Folding and rolling the dough over thinly spread fat creates sumptuous layers that are rich with flavor, employing a technique similar to that used for croissants or puff pastry.

    Stuffed wheat bread has been made in India for hundreds of years, and several varieties even get a shout-out in the “Manasollasa,” a 12th-century Sanskrit text that contains some of the earliest written descriptions of the region’s food.

    18 best breads travel

    Palm sugar and cinnamon lend a light, aromatic sweetness to roti gambang, a tender wheat bread that’s an old-fashioned favorite at Jakarta bakeries.

    The name evokes the gambang, a traditional Indonesian instrument with a resemblance to the slender, brown loaves.

    For the recipe, though, cooks look back to the colonial era: From spiced holiday cookies to cheese sticks topped with Gouda or Edam, Indonesian baking has adapted Dutch ingredients and techniques to local tastes.

    19 best breads travel

    It takes a pair of deft bakers to craft this addictive Iranian flatbread, which is cooked directly on a bed of hot pebbles.

    That blazing-hot surface pocks the wheat dough with golden blisters, and it gives sangak – also known as nan-e sangak – a characteristic chewiness.

    If you’re lucky enough to taste sangak hot from the oven, enjoy a heavenly contrast of crisp crust and tender crumb. Eat the flatbread on its own, or turn it into an Iranian-style breakfast: Use a piece of sangak to wrap salty cheese and a bundle of aromatic green herbs.

    Soda bread, Ireland

    20 best breads travel

    You don’t need yeast to get lofty bread: Chemical leavening can add air through an explosive combination of acidic and basic ingredients. While Native Americans used refined potash to leaven griddled breads – an early example of chemical leavening – this version became popular during the lean years of the Irish Potato Famine.

    With potato crops failing, impoverished Irish people started mixing loaves using soft wheat flour, sour milk and baking soda.

    Now, dense loaves of soda bread are a nostalgic treat that’s a perfect pairing with salted Irish butter.

    21 best breads travel

    If you think challah is limited to pillowy, braided loaves, think again – traditionally, challah is any bread used in Jewish ritual.

    And Jewish bakers have long made breads as diverse as the diaspora itself: Think blistered flatbreads, hearty European loaves and Hungarian confections dotted with poppy seeds.

    Israel’s modern-day bakers draw on that rich heritage. But on Friday afternoons in Tel Aviv, you’ll still spot plenty of the classic Ashkenazi versions that many people in the United States know as challah.

    Those golden loaves are tender with eggs, and shiny under a generous glaze. It’s the braid, though, that catches the eye. By wrapping dough strands together, bakers create 12 distinctive mounds said to represent 12 loaves in the ancient Temple of Jerusalem.

    22 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Between an emphasis on “ancient grains” and centuries of floury traditions, it can seem like breadmaking is stuck in the past.

    But bread is continually evolving, and there’s no better example than this iconic Italian loaf, which was only invented in the 1980s.

    In 1982, Italian baker Arnaldo Cavallari created the low, chewy loaf in defiance of the baguette-style breads he saw taking over Roman bakeries.

    It was a watershed moment in the comeback of artisanal breads, which has roots in the 1960s and 1970s backlash against the increasingly industrialized food system.

    23 best breads travel

    Pan-fried cassava cakes are delicious comfort food in Jamaica, where rounds of bammy bread are a hearty pairing for the island’s ultra-fresh seafood.

    The traditional process for making bammy bread starts with processing grated cassava to get rid of naturally occurring cyanide; next, sifted cassava pulp is pressed into metal rings.

    It’s a recipe with ancient roots – cassava has been a staple in South America and the Caribbean since long before the arrival of Europeans here, and it’s believed that the native Arawak people used the root to make flatbreads as well.

    24 best breads travel

    Yeasted wheat dough makes a convenient package for Japanese curry, turning a sit-down meal into a snack that can be eaten out of hand.

    Kare pan, or curry bread, is rolled in panko before a dunk in the deep fryer, ensuring a crispy crust that provides maximum textural contrast with the soft, saucy interior.

    Kare pan is so beloved that there’s even a crime-fighting superhero named for the savory treat: A star of the anime series “Soreike! Anpanman,” Karepanman fights villains by shooting out a burning-hot curry filling.

    25 best breads travel

    Follow the aroma of baking bread in Amman, and you’ll find bakers in roadside stalls stacking this classic flatbread into steaming piles.

    When shaping taboon, bakers press rounds of soft, wheat dough over a convex form, then slap them onto the interior of a conical clay oven.

    What emerges is a chewy round that’s crackling with steam, wafting a rich smell of grain and smoke. It’s the ideal foil for a plate of Jordanian mouttabal, a roasted eggplant dip that’s blended with ground sesame seeds and yogurt.

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    Roti flatbread may have arrived in Malaysia with Indian immigrants, but the country’s made the flaky, rich bread their own.

    When cooked on a hot griddle, roti canai puffs into a stack of overlapping layers rich with buttery flavor. Irresistible when served with Malaysian dips and curries, roti canai becomes a meal all its own with the addition of stuffings from sweet, ripe bananas to fried eggs.

    27 best breads travel

    The tawny crust of Malta’s sourdough gives way to a pillow-soft interior, ideal for rubbing with a fresh tomato or soaking up the islands’ prized olive oils.

    Classic versions take more than a day to prepare, and were traditionally baked in shared, wood-fired ovens that served as community gathering places.

    Even now that few Maltese bake their own bread, Ħobż tal-Malti has a powerful symbolism for the Mediterranean island nation.

    When trying to discover someone’s true nature, a Maltese person might ask “x’ħobz jiekol dan?,” literally, “what kind of bread does he eat?”

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    Thin rounds of corn dough turn blistered and brown on a hot comal, the traditional griddles that have been used in Mexico since at least 700 BCE.

    Whether folded into a taco or eaten out of hand, corn tortillas are one of the country’s most universally loved foods. The ground-corn dough is deceptively simple; made from just a few ingredients, it’s nonetheless a triumph of culinary ingenuity.

    Before being ground, the corn is mixed with an alkaline ingredient such as lime, a process called nixtamalization that makes the grain more nutritious and easier to digest.

    29 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Follow the rich scent of baking bread through a Moroccan medina, and you may find yourself at one of the communal neighborhood ovens called ferran. This is where locals bring rounds of tender wheat dough ready to bake into khobz kesra, one of the country’s homiest breads.

    The low, rounded loaves have a slightly crisp exterior that earns them pride of place on the Moroccan table, where their fluffy texture is ideal for absorbing aromatic tajine sauce.

    30 best breads travel

    Golden, crisp rounds of fry bread are a taste of home for many in the Navajo Nation, as well as a reminder of a tragic history.

    When Navajo people were forced out of their Arizona lands by the US government in 1864, they resettled in New Mexican landscapes where growing traditional crops of beans and vegetables proved difficult.

    To survive, they used government-provided stores of white flour, lard and sugar, creating fry bread out of stark necessity.

    Now, fry bread is a symbol of perseverance and tradition, and a favorite treat everywhere from powwows to family gatherings.

    Tijgerbrood, Netherlands

    31 best breads travel

    Putting the “Dutch” in Dutch crunch, tijgerbrood is a crust-lover’s masterpiece in every crispy bite.

    To create the mottled top of tijgerbrood, bakers spread unbaked loaves of white bread with a soft mixture of rice flour, sesame oil, water and yeast.

    Heat transforms the exterior into a crispy pattern of snackable pieces, and loaves of tijgerbrood are beloved for sandwiches. (An ocean away from Amsterdam’s Old World bakeries, San Francisco has made Dutch crunch its sandwich bread of choice as well.)

    Rēwena parāoa, New Zealand

    32 best breads travel

    When European settlers brought potatoes and wheat to New Zealand, indigenous Maori people made the imported ingredients their own with this innovative bread.

    To mix the dough, potatoes are boiled then fermented into a sourdough-like starter that gives the finished bread a sweet-and-sour taste.

    Now, rēwena parāoa is a favorite treat when layered with butter and jam or served with a hearty portion of raw fish, a longtime delicacy for Maori people.

    33 best breads travel

    If you don’t think of northern Europe as flatbread country, you haven’t tasted lefse.

    The Norwegian potato flatbread is a favorite at holidays, when there are many hands to roll the soft dough with a grooved pin, then cook it on a hot griddle. For a taste of Norwegian comfort food, eat a warm lefse spiraled with butter, sugar and a dash of cinnamon.

    While potatoes are just an 18th-century addition to the Norwegian diet, Scandinavian flatbread is at least as old as the Vikings.

    Podplomyk, Poland

    34 best breads travel

    Slather a hot round of podplomyk with white cheese and fruit preserves for a taste of old-fashioned, Polish home cooking.

    The unyeasted flatbread is blistered brown. With ingredients limited to wheat flour, salt and water, podplomyk is a deliciously simple entry in the sprawling family tree of flatbreads.

    Since dough for podplomyk is rolled thin, it was traditionally baked before other loaves are ready for the oven. In the Middle Ages, the portable breads were shared with neighbors and household members as a sign of friendship. (Today, that tradition is carried on with the exchange of oplatek wafers at Christmastime.)

    35 best breads travel

    Corn and buckwheat are stone-milled, sifted and kneaded in a wooden trough for the most traditional version of this hearty peasant bread from northern Portugal.

    When the loaves are baked in wood-fired, stone ovens, an archipelago of floury crust shards expands over deep cracks. The ovens themselves are sealed with bread dough, which acts as a natural oven timer: The bread is ready when the dough strips turn toasty brown.

    Europeans didn’t taste corn until they arrived in the Americas, but it would be eagerly adopted in northern Portuguese regions where soil conditions are poorly suited to growing wheat.

    36 best breads travel

    Bread baking becomes art on Russian holidays, when golden loaves of karavai are decked in dough flowers, animals and swirls.

    The bread plays a starring role at weddings, with elaborate rules to govern the baking process: Traditionally, a happily married woman must mix the dough, and a married man slides the round loaf into the oven.

    Even the round shape has an ancient symbolism and is thought to date back to ancient sun worship. Now, it’s baked to ensure health and prosperity for a new couple.

    37 best breads travel

    Once part of the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia, this mountainous island’s cuisine remains distinct from mainland Italy. Among the most iconic foods here is pane carasau, parchment-thin flatbread with a melodic nickname: carta de musica, or sheet music.

    While pane carasau starts like a classic flatbread, there’s a Sardinian twist that makes it an ideal traveling companion; after the flatbreads puff up in the oven, they’re sliced horizontally into two thinner pieces. Those pieces are baked a second time, drying out the bread enough to last for months.

    38 best breads travel

    Warm squares of Serbian proja, or cornbread, are a favorite accompaniment to the country’s lush meat stews.

    It’s a homey dish that’s often cooked fresh for family meals, then served hot from the oven. Ground corn offers a lightly sweet foil to salty toppings, from salty kajmak cheese to a scattering of cracklings.

    39 best breads travel

    There’s buried treasure within every loaf of gyeran-ppang, individually sized wheat breads with a whole egg baked inside.

    Translating simply to “egg bread,” gyeran-ppang is a favorite in the streets of Seoul, eaten hot for breakfast – or at any other time of day.

    The addition of ham, cheese and chopped parsley adds a savory twist to the sweet-and-salty treat, a belly-warming snack that keeps South Korea fueled through the country’s long winters.

    40 best breads travel

    A thin, fermented batter of rice flour and coconut milk turns crisp in the bowl-shaped pans used for cooking appam, one of Sri Lanka’s most ubiquitous treats.

    Often called hoppers, this whisper-thin pancake is best eaten hot – preferably while standing around a Colombo street food stall.

    Favorite toppings for appam in Sri Lanka include coconut sambal and chicken curry, or you can order one with egg. For egg hoppers, a whole egg is cracked into the center of an appam, then topped with a richly aromatic chili paste. Appam is also popular in southern India.

    Kisra, Sudan and South Sudan

    41 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Overnight fermentation lends a delicious tang to this Sudanese flatbread, balancing the mild, earthy flavor of sorghum flour with a tart bite.

    Making the crepe-like kisra takes practice and patience, but perfect the art of cooking these on a flat metal pan and you’ll be in for a classic Sudanese treat.

    Like Ethiopian injera, kisra is both staple food and an edible utensil – use pieces of the spongy bread to scoop up spicy bites of the hearty stews that are some of Sudan’s most beloved foods.

    42 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Before commercial yeast was available, brewers and bakers worked in tandem: Brewers harvested yeast from their batches of beer, passing it off to bakers whose bread would be infused with a light beer flavor.

    That legacy lives on in Sweden’s vörtlimpa: Limpa means loaf, while vört refers to a tart dose of brewer’s wort. Known as limpa bread in English, the light rye now gets acidity from orange juice, not brewers wort.

    43 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Crops of cold-hardy barley have thrived on the Tibetan Plateau for thousands of years, and the grain has long been a staple of high-altitude diets there.

    While balep korkun is often made with wheat, traditional versions of this flatbread are shaped from tsampa, a roasted barley flour with nutty flavor.

    That rich-tasting flour is so central to Tibetan identity that it’s been turned into a hashtag and been called out in rap songs. (The Dalai Lama even eats it for breakfast.)

    44 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Dredged in sesame seeds and spiraled into rings, simit might be Turkey’s ultimate on-the-go treat.

    A few decades ago, vendors wound through the Istanbul streets carrying trays piled high with the breads, but roving bread-sellers are now rare in the capital.

    Instead, commuters pick up their daily simit at roadside stands, where the deep-colored rings are stacked by the dozen. A burnished crust infuses the breads with a light sweetness – before sliding into wood fired ovens, simit is dunked in sugar-water or thinned molasses, a slick glaze that turns to caramel in the intense heat.

    45 best breads travel

    Yeasted wheat batter bubbles into a spongy cake for this griddled treat, a British favorite when smeared with jam, butter or clotted cream.

    Ring molds contain the pourable batter on an oiled griddle, which cooks one side of each crumpet to a golden hue. Like Eastern European zwieback and crisp rusks, crumpets are mostly eaten as a twice-baked bread – the rounds are split and toasted before serving.

    46 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Smeared with butter or dripping in gravy, biscuits are one of the United States’ homiest tastes. That’s not to say they’re easy to make: Achieving soft, fluffy biscuits requires quick hands and gentle mixing.

    In the antebellum South, biscuits were seen as a special treat for Sunday dinner. These days they’re nearly ubiquitous, from gas station barbecue joints to home-cooked meals.

    Part of the secret is in the flour, typically a low-protein flour like White Lily. The soft wheat used for White Lily was long grown in Southern states – before long-distance food shipping. (It’s now milled in the Midwest.)

    47 best breads travel

    Flatbreads become art in Uzbekistan’s traditional tandoor ovens, which turn out rounds adorned with twists, swirls and stamps.

    Uzbek non varies across regions, from Tashkent’s chewy versions to Samarkand loaves showered in black nigella seeds. As soon as the breads emerge from the oven, they’re turned over to a swarm of bicycle messengers who ferry the hot loaves to markets and cafes.

    48 best breads travel

    Areperos – Venezuelan arepa-makers – pat golden rounds of corn dough onto hot griddles to give the plump flatbreads a deliciously toasted crust and tender, steaming interior.

    Arepas have been made in Venezuela and surrounding regions since long before the arrival of Europeans in South America, and the nourishing corn breads can range from simple to elaborate.

    At breakfast, try them split and buttered. Stuffed with savory fillings, creamy sauces and fiery salsa, arepas can become a hearty meal all their own.

    49 best breads travel

    A family tree of flatbreads stretches across the Middle East and beyond, but Yemen’s Jewish community’s version is a richer treat than most.

    To make malawach, bakers roll wheat dough into a delicate sheet and fold it over a slick of melted butter. The dough is twisted into a loose topknot, then re-rolled, sending veins of butter through overlapping layers.

    When the pan-fried dough emerges steaming from the stovetop, a final shower of black nigella or sesame seeds add texture and savory crunch.

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  • 7 countries, 7 traditional Christmas feasts | CNN

    7 countries, 7 traditional Christmas feasts | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    Christmas is celebrated in many ways in many corners of the globe, and the cuisine that marks the holiday is as diverse as the people feasting on it.

    Christmas and Advent food traditions are comforting at a time when many people have had a challenging year. And Christmas dishes are particularly special in many households.

    The typical Christmas meal may be different by destination, but the idea of indulging in a feast, be it on the day itself or the night before, isn’t.

    Here’s a look at how locals celebrate Christmas through cuisine in seven countries. We asked hospitality experts about these traditions, and they shared their perspective on what’s typical for them as well as their families and friends.

    The French enjoy their lavish holiday meal on December 24, says Francois Payard, the renowned pastry chef who grew up in Nice.

    Locals sit down for dinner around 8 p.m., he says, and savor a first course of seafood. That usually means a lobster thermidor – a baked dish of the cooked crustacean mixed with mustard, egg yolks and brandy – or a shrimp scampi.

    Then it’s on to a large capon – a male chicken that’s renowned for its tenderness – and a medley of sides including mashed potatoes and chestnuts sauteed with butter and topped with sage. “Chestnuts are a fixture in any Christmas meal for us,” says Payard.

    Dessert, the grand finale, is a yule log, or bûche de Noël – the French version of a Christmas cake. Often two are served – one chocolate, the other chestnut. To drink, it’s the finest wine you can get your hands on, usually red from Burgundy that’s not too full-bodied for the capon.

    On Christmas Day, the French savor a hearty brunch that may include creamy scrambled eggs, smoked salmon and toast. The meal finishes with assorted cheeses such as Brie, Gruyere and Munster, Payard says.

    Tortellini in brodo is part of many an Italian Christmas Eve spread.

    Similar to France, Italians celebrate Christmas with their biggest spread on the eve of the big day. Luca Finardi, the general manager of the Mandarin Oriental Milan, says that locals usually attend midnight Mass and enjoy a sumptuous meal before heading to church.

    Smoked salmon with buttered crostini or a smoked salted cod is the precursor to the main meal. Italians from coastal areas such as the Amalfi Coast may start with a crudo such as sea bass with herbs and sea salt, says Finardi.

    Next up is tortellini in brodo – stuffed pasta bathed in a hot broth of chicken and Parmesan cheese – the latter of which must come from the namesake region in Italy.

    For the main meal, northern Italians tend to have stuffed turkey while those from seaside areas may tuck into a large baked sea bass surrounded by roasted potatoes and vegetables.

    “The must no matter where you’re from is panettone – a typical sweet bread,” says Finardi. “The secret is to warm it up for just a few minutes.” Spumante, a sparkling wine, is the drink of choice.

    As for the famous Italian Christmas meal of the feast of the seven fishes, Finardi says it’s limited mainly to the Campania region, which includes the Amalfi Coast and Naples.

    Christmas Day is more about connecting with family and less about food, Finardi says. “We eat leftovers and recover from the day before.”

    Christmas pudding, sometimes flaming with brandy, finishes the traditional English Christmas feast.

    England

    The Brits don’t typically indulge in their big holiday meal on Christmas Eve. “The 24th is for cooking with our families and going to the local pub for a pint,” says Nicola Butler, the owner of the London-based luxury travel company NoteWorthy.

    The real festivities start on Christmas morning with a glass of champagne and a breakfast of smoked salmon and mince pieces, she says. Later that day, after the Queen’s annual Christmas speech is aired, it’s time for dinner.

    That means a turkey or roast beef and a host of sides such as roasted parsnips and carrots, buttered peas and Brussels sprouts. Some families include Yorkshire pudding, a savory baked good of flour, eggs and milk made with meat drippings.

    Dessert is Christmas pudding, which is actually a dark and dense cake made with dried fruits, spices and usually a splash of brandy. “We have lots of wine to go along with the food,” says Butler.

    Christmas honey cookies are part of a typical Greek holiday spread.

    Maria Loi, the celebrity Greek chef, says that the country’s holiday celebrations begin on Christmas Eve around 7 p.m.

    “Families sit around the fireplace and eat a special wheat bread that we make only at Christmas,” she says. “Some households also eat pork sausages. It’s the only [occasion] Greeks eat pork because the meat is not common in our cuisine.”

    After attending an early morning holy communion on Christmas Day, Greeks go home for an all-day eating fest, says Loi.

    Homemade honey cookies with walnuts or almonds come first followed by chicken soup with orzo. A few hours later, it’s on to either a roast chicken stuffed with chestnuts or variations of grilled or braised pork dishes. Sides such as sauteed wild greens, finely shredded romaine with scallions and feta cheese and roasted lemon potatoes accompany the entrée.

    Dessert is light and could be baked apples with honey and walnuts or Greek yogurt topped with honey. To drink, Loi says Greeks favor red wine.

    Posole is a traditional way to start a Mexican Christmas meal.

    Mexicans get the Christmas festivities going on December 24, according to Pablo Carmona and Josh Kremer, co-founders of Paradero Hotels.

    “Families start by breaking a piñata that’s filled with all sorts of locally made candies in chili and tamarind flavors,” says Kremer. Dinner follows usually somewhere between 7 and 10 p.m.

    The meal starts with posole – a stew with big corn kernels and pork or beef that’s accompanied by as many as 20 condiments such as parsley, cilantro, chiles and assorted cheeses.

    In a nod to the American influence in Mexico, the entrée – at least for Carmona and Kremer – is a turkey with all the trimmings such as mashed potatoes and green beans.

    The sweet finish is often a creamy flan plus strawberries and cream. But the meal isn’t complete without tequilas and mezcals to go along with the food.

    On the 25th, many Mexicans heat up the leftovers from the night before. “We’re tired so we don’t want to bother to cook,” says Carmona.

    Homemade tamales are a staple in Costa Rica.

    Many Costa Ricans celebrate Christmas with a middle-of-the-night extravaganza, says Leo Ghitis, owner of Nayara Hotels, in the country’s northern highlands. “We go to midnight Mass and come home and have a huge meal at 2 a.m.,” he says.

    Homemade tamales, filled with either chicken or pork or vegetables and cheese, kick off the spread. Then it’s on to arroz con pollo, Costa Rica’s national rice dish that’s made with green beans, peas, carrots, saffron, cilantro and a chopped up whole chicken.

    The third course is an assortment of grilled proteins. Costa Ricans who live along the coast have seafood such as marlin, tuna, mahi mahi, shrimp and lobster while inlanders tuck into beef, pork and chicken. Sides are the same for both: rice with black beans, boiled palm fruit with sour cream and a hearts of palm salad with avocado.

    Dessert is typically a coconut flan and arroz con leche – rice with milk, sugar and cinnamon.

    “We top off the meal with lots of rum punch and eggnog and don’t finish until 4 or 5 a.m.,” says Ghitis.

    Christmas Day itself is about finishing leftovers and hitting the streets for outdoor parties, he says.

    Peas and rice grace many holiday plates in the Bahamas.

    Christmas Day is the big food celebration for Bahamians, says Vonya Ifill, the director of talent and culture at Rosewood Baha Mar.

    Locals have a big dinner that includes turkey, ham, macaroni and cheese, peas and rice made with coconut milk and potato salad.

    “We have this feast in the evening and then at midnight go off and celebrate Boxing Day with a Junkanoo Festival,” she says. “After dancing and parading around all evening and into the early morning hours, we end the festivities with a boiled fish or fish stew.”

    The seafood, she says, is always accompanied by potato bread or Johnny Cake, a cornmeal flatbread.

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  • 20 classic French dishes everyone needs to try | CNN

    20 classic French dishes everyone needs to try | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    The roots of French cooking run deep.

    The foundations of the country’s culinary empire were laid as early as the mid-1600s when chef François Pierre La Varenne penned his hugely influential “Le Cuisinier François” recipe book, which emphasized regional and seasonal ingredients and highlighted complementary flavors.

    “French cooking is, at its core, about making beautiful, refined food out of simple ingredients,” said Maryann Tebben, author of “Savoir-Faire: A History of Food in France.”

    “There is some mystery and magic to French cuisine that still draws people in. Even the basics – a perfect baguette, flaky pastry, potatoes simmered in cream – are astonishingly good even if we can’t quite figure out what makes them so delicious.”

    The cuisine of France “keeps inspiring people. It is entertaining. It is delicious. It is accessible. It is possible,” said Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud.

    Whether it’s country fare or haute cuisine that inspires, take a look at 20 classic French dishes:

    Is there possibly a more French way to prepare beef than to marinate it in red wine? Named boeuf Bourguignon after the famed red wine from the Burgundy region of France, this dish combines a nice, fatty cut of beef with a dry pinot noir and plenty of fresh vegetables to create a hearty and indulgent stew.

    It has been the focus of many discussions over which cuts of beef and types of wine create the best flavor profiles. But the most important ingredient for success is patience – like any good stew, boeuf Bourguignon is best when left overnight before serving.

    Not a fan of beef? Another French favorite, coq au vin, takes the Burgundian preparation and gives chicken the leading role instead.

    Bouillabaisse: This dish is an elevated take on the catch of the day.

    With a long name and an even longer list of ingredients, bouillabaisse is Marseille’s gift to France’s culinary canon. The soup, once a poor man’s dish and now a mainstay on many a Michelin-starred menu, elevates the catch of the day beyond your standard soupe de poisson.

    According to the Mediterranean port’s bouillabaisse charter, in an attempt to standardize the ingredients and preparation of the classic dish, the soup must include at least four of six specific fish selections that are cut up in front of the diners.

    Alongside optional crustaceans and a spicy broth, no self-respecting bouillabaisse is complete without a topper of croutons dipped in rouille, a peppery garlic sauce.

    Tarte Tatin: The rustic upside-down caramelized apple tart has deep, buttery flavor.

    This list of classic French dishes would be incomplete without the inclusion of something from the country’s extensive repertoire of patisserie. Though not as refined or architectural as some treats seen in the windows of French sweet shops, the buttery, simmering tarte Tatin, essentially an upside-down caramelized apple tart, is famous around the world for its rich flavor and unique history.

    Legend has it that sisters Stéphanie and Caroline Tatin were working in a restaurant in the Loire Valley of France in the late 19th century when Stéphanie was overwhelmed in the kitchen by the influx of customers during hunting season.

    She accidentally left the apples in her apple pie cooking too long and tried to salvage it by covering the apples in pastry and baking. The resulting dish – steaming apples under caramelized sugar with a flaky crust – was so popular it was eventually named after the sisters: la tarte des demoiselles Tatin.

    Though tarte Tatin is sure to be delicious anywhere you try it, it might be best sampled where it originated.

    “Northern France is very known for its apples,” said David Lebovitz, author of “The Sweet Life in Paris.” “They have spectacularly good cooking apples.”

    French onion soup: The cozy, brothy soup is topped with bread and melted cheese.

    Onion soup is not a new invention or even a dish that can be directly tied to France. Some of the earliest iterations of it can be traced back to ancient Rome. But the most famous version? The version you think of when you think “onion soup”? The version you order to start off your meal made with beef stock, onions, toasted bread and ooey-gooey Gruyère cheese?

    That’s all France.

    The element that really sets this soup apart from other, less indulgent onion-based options is the layer of cheese that tops the steaming broth. That comes from baking the soup in a broiler to melt the cheese and produce what the French call au gratin.

    The gratin “technique (is) about making something in a shallow dish that will bake and get croûte on top – which means creating a crust – and that crust can be cheese, can be bread, can be all kinds of things. But a nice crust,” explained Boulud, who opened Le Gratin, an entire restaurant dedicated to highlighting the technique, in New York.

    The most popular dish at the restaurant is another cheesy French favorite, gratin Dauphinois, or gratin potatoes.

    Escargot: Snails with parsley and garlic butter are a French delicacy.

    Escargot is perhaps one of the most famous – or infamous, depending on who you ask – French dishes around. The delicacy, which can be traced all the way back to the Roman Empire, might not be for everyone, but it’s definitely worth a try for the adventurous eater.

    The classic recipe involves snails with parsley and garlic butter. The snails are served warm either inside their shells or in a specific dish fashioned with six to 12 small compartments. Often the dish comes with some bread to help soak up the rich, buttery flavor.

    These aren’t your average backyard snails either. The most popular snail species for escargot are the particularly well-regarded Burgundy snail, which is highly protected in France.

    Chocolate soufflé: This rich yet lightweight dessert is a challenge to master but well worth the effort.

    Aptly named after the French term souffler, meaning “to puff up,” the experience of eating a chocolate soufflé or one of its savory counterparts is a bit like biting into a cloud. The rich yet lightweight dessert has been gracing French tables since the 18th century, but was really perfected by esteemed chef and arbiter of haute cuisine Marie-Antoine Carême in the mid-1800s.

    Though notoriously difficult to prepare, the soufflé has a relatively simple ingredient list.

    The distinctive airy texture comes from separating the egg whites from the yolk and whipping them into a stiff meringue before folding them back into the chocolate batter. The baking time and cooking temperature is specific, and easy to get wrong, but the payoff is immediate – soufflés are served hot and fresh from the oven.

    Crepes: Ultrathin pancakes can be filled with sweet or savory ingredients.

    Not every French dish can be served all day, but then again, the crepe isn’t just any French dish.

    As France’s biggest-hitting entry to the global pancake catalog, crepes have a uniquely versatile quality. They can be served for breakfast, lunch or dinner. They can be made with buckwheat flour, the tradition of the Brittany region’s savory galettes, or with more widely used white flour. They can be folded into triangles or rolled into logs.

    The paper-thin pancake is prepared rather theatrically on large griddles at crêperies. You can now find crepes made with any combination of sweet or savory ingredients, but crêpes suzette are still a popular iteration, consisting of caramelized sugar, orange juice and, for a flash of drama, flambeed liqueur.

    Salade Niçoise: This dish is a celebration of fresh, colorful produce at its peak.

    Salade Niçoise is a celebration of the fresh, colorful produce available throughout the French Riviera, where the dish originated. Elegantly plated on a tray or large platter, the salad features a bed of lettuce and a simple olive oil dressing or vinaigrette that lets the real star of the dish truly shine – the crudités, or raw vegetables.

    A purist’s salade Niçoise might feature a seasonal selection of fresh tomatoes, black olives, capers and green beans, all served cold, with the optional addition of anchovies or tuna. But as the salad’s popularity has grown outside of Nice, a number of ingredients have become common additions, such as hard-boiled eggs, potatoes, red bell peppers, fava beans and cucumbers.

    The sandwich version of this salad, pan bagnat, is also worth a try. Picture all the delicious ingredients of a Niçoise salad tucked into pain de campagne, or French sourdough.

    Crème brûlée: Fire is required for this caramelized dessert.

    Every bite of a crème brûlée is an exercise in opposites. The sweet vanilla custard flavor contrasted with the almost bitter flavor of the bruléed topping; the crunch of the caramelized sugar against the smooth, creamy texture of the custard underneath; the gentle water bath used to bake the custard compared with the dramatic blowtorch flame used to melt the sugar – in this dish opposites definitely attract.

    It’s hard to pinpoint when and even where the first crème brûlée might have been made. There were similar recipes floating around France, Spain and England dating back as early as the fifth century. But one thing for sure is that humans throughout history have always loved a good, creamy dessert. And who are we to disagree with 1,500 years of good reviews?

    Cassoulet: The earthy stew is the heartiest of hearty French dishes.

    Perhaps the heartiest of hearty French dishes is the cassoulet.

    A bean-centric ragout that originated in the southern town of Castelnaudary, the cassoulet can have different ingredients, depending on the region. In Castelnaudary, the white beans are prepared with duck confit, pork and sausage. Carcassonne features gamey meat such as mutton. Toulouse adds a bread crumb topping.

    The general and historical premise is the same – take all the hearty and edible ingredients available and put them in a pot or, more specifically, an earthenware cassole.

    This dish is so beloved by the French, Castelnaudary has its own brotherhood to defend it – the Grande Confrérie du Cassoulet.

    “The purpose of the Grande Confrérie is to honor, disseminate and defend the reputation of Cassoulet de Castelnaudary, ensuring respect for traditions and quality,” a statement on the brotherhood’s website explains.

    Quiche Lorraine: A butter crust and savory egg custard make this a winning dish.

    Creamy eggs, smoky bacon, flaky pastry crust – the quiche Lorraine is the quintessential French brunch item. But what has become a staple item at any decent French bistro or boulangerie had a rather tumultuous start.

    The term quiche originates from the German word for cake – kuchen. This is because the first quiches were made in the Lotharingia kingdom of Germany which, during the Middle Ages, spanned several modern Western European countries.

    The egg-and-cream custard pie was beloved in the Lothringen region, which was later annexed by France to become, you guessed it, Lorraine. The borders changed, but the dish stuck around. Now, quiches are served worldwide with any number of delicious and inventive flavor combinations.

    Confit de canard: The slow-cooked duck will have meat so tender it falls off the bone.

    What was once a method of preserving meat or vegetables before the existence of refrigerators has become one of the most famous French food preparation methods. The confit process produces juicy, tender meat with crispy skin that’s been enriched with the flavors of salt, herbs and its own fat. What’s not to love?

    Confit certainly isn’t the easiest process, but it’s hard to conceive of a more delicious way to prepare duck. First, the raw meat is cured with salt and aromatics such as thyme or garlic, then it’s poached at a low temperature for several hours until the fat is fully rendered. The meat can then be stored with the fat in an airtight container for weeks or even months until you’re ready to fry it up and eat it.

    This technique can easily go awry, but when done right, it produces a cut of duck that’s nutty in flavor and fall-off-the-bone tender.

    Ratatouille: The colorful, tangy vegetable dish is a Provençal specialty (and also a great movie).

    Among so many heavy hitters featuring beef and poultry in the French culinary tradition, there is still one famous entrée suitable for vegetarians: ratatouille. From the French word touille, meaning “to toss,” ratatouille originated in the Provence region but quickly gained popularity throughout France for its use of fresh summer vegetables.

    Featuring a colorful collection of eggplant, zucchini, peppers, onion and tomatoes, ratatouille can be prepared by either baking all the vegetables like a casserole or sautéing them with olive oil, garlic, salt and pepper. The resulting stew can be served hot or cold.

    It pairs great with a crusty baguette topped with an egg, Parmesan, or both, according to the James Beard Foundation.

    Profiteroles: What's better than a cream puff? A cream puff covered with chocolate.

    Beautiful, sweet and small enough to eat more than is probably advisable, profiteroles come in any assortment of flavors. Filled with vanilla custard, cream or even ice cream, these little cream puffs can be topped with chocolate sauce, fruit or just served plain.

    The airy, delicate pastry is pâte à choux, or choux pastry. One of the backbones of French patisserie, choux is the dough used for éclairs, beignets, the Paris-Brest and more. It’s made by cooking flour with water, milk and butter before mixing in the eggs. The resulting dough is wet and pipable and puffs up when baked.

    Because of their simplicity, profiteroles are a common dessert taught young in French homes, David Lebovitz explained. “French cooking is very technique oriented and pâte à choux is a very easy technique to master.”

    Sole meunière: This fish dish showcases one of France's most iconic ingredients: butter.

    This fish dish is fit for a king – literally. Sole meunière is said to have been a favorite of King Louis XIV during the late 1600s. The deceptively simple dish has few ingredients, but the flavor profiles are complex due to the specific techniques used to cook the fish.

    For the most classic preparation, the Dover sole is the fish of choice because of its firm flesh and fresh flavor. The sole is breaded with flour and sautéed in butter until delicately crisp and golden, then topped with parsley and sizzling brown butter, or beurre noisette, which has a rich, nutty flavor.

    “The flesh is transparent. It’s absolutely delicate. It’s one of the finest things in life,” said chef Danièle Mazet-Delpeuch, former personal chef to French President François Mitterrand, in “Julia,” the CNN Film documentary about Julia Child. “Perfect fish in butter. It’s perfect!”

    Terrine: A loaflike shape defines this  dish, but you can experiment with many flavor combinations.

    A terrine is the great dish for the most creative of chefs. Named after the earthenware pot used to mold its distinctive, loaflike shape, this dish has a specific look, but the flavor combinations are almost limitless. Make a terrine rustic with ingredients such as pork and beans or go lavish with ingredients such as rare game and truffles. The dish can be made with poultry or fish, or even entirely of vegetables.

    The most important feature for any ingredient? Big flavor.

    Not to be confused with other popular charcuterie elements such as paté or rillettes, a terrine is made by layering forcemeat with any combination of additional ingredients in a terrine mold to cook slowly in a water bath. This dish can be dense enough to serve as an entrée or makes a great hors d’oeuvre with crusty bread and cornichons, which are tiny crisp pickles.

    Steak frites: This simple and universally loved meal of steak and fries pairs well with red wine.

    Try to name a more classic combination than steak and potatoes. Since its origins in France and Belgium, steak frites has been a centerpiece of brasserie and bistro menus throughout Europe – and for good reason. The elements are simple and universally loved: a sizzling cut of beefsteak with a side of piping-hot, crispy fries.

    The steak is often served with a side of creamy béarnaise. Made from clarified butter, herbs and egg yolks, the sauce creates a rich accompaniment to the juicy cut of rib eye or porterhouse.

    Paired with a nice red wine to cut through the heavy flavors, this dish becomes the ultimate casual dinner entrée.

    Jambon-beurre: Assemble good-quality ham, butter and a baguette -- nothing more and nothing less.

    The jambon-beurre is exactly what it claims to be: jambon, or ham, layered on a coating of beurre – butter – between two slices of bread, nothing more and nothing less. The simplicity of this sandwich forces its maker to use only the best ingredients because every element is as important as the last.

    The bread, always a baguette sliced neatly down the center, must be freshly baked to perfection with a crunchy crust and a chewy interior. The ham is best if it’s jambon de Paris, sourced directly from the French capital, sliced thin and free from additives and preservatives. The butter, ideally directly from the northwestern Normandy region, should be lightly salted and spread generously.

    Also known as the Parisien, the jambon-beurre is used as a marker of sorts for the popularity of classic French cuisine among the country’s residents. According to Maryann Tebben, an annual index measures the number of jambon-beurres purchased compared with the annual number of hamburgers, lest the country stray too far from its roots.

    Blanquette de veau: Tender meat in a creamy, comforting sauce is a go-to dish for French home cooks.

    A favorite of home cooks across France, blanquette de veau is a veal stew prepared en blanquette, meaning neither the meat or the butter is browned during cooking. This process produces a dish of tender meat and mellow flavors with a creamy, comforting sauce coating it all.

    The white sauce is made using one of France’s biggest contributions to cooking techniques worldwide – combining melted butter with flour to create a roux. The flour acts as a thickening agent, creating a denser base, and also acts as a bonding agent between the roux and other ingredients such as cheese or cream.

    You can thank this technique for creating the base of dishes such as gumbo, some curries and creamy mac and cheese.

    Pot-au-feu: The beef and vegetable stew is the perfect cold-weather dish.

    Move over chicken noodle soup. There’s another dish that makes a strong claim for the perfect cold-weather dish. Pot-au-feu (meaning “pot on fire”) is a warm, simple and flavorful slow-cooked meal.

    Considered a national dish of France, pot-au-feu has no definitive recipe, and many regions of France have their own versions.

    It’s generally made with meat, root vegetables, herbs, spices and bone marrow, which are prepared together but served in separate courses: the marrow starter, followed by the broth and then finally the meat and vegetables.

    A large helping of pot-au-feu is thought to epitomize the spirit of French cooking – that sharing food, wine and conversation with a table full of loved ones is what makes life worth living.

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  • How scientists are decoding what the past smelled like | CNN

    How scientists are decoding what the past smelled like | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    Smells hover just below our conscious awareness, conjuring up emotions and memories that shape how we perceive and navigate the world.

    An unexpected whiff of a long-forgotten snack or a dusty book can transport a person to years past — enabling a kind of time travel that makes hazy memories more vivid.

    It’s puzzling then that smell is a sense that, according to scientists, has been largely — and unfairly — ignored in most attempts to understand the past. A growing number of researchers now want to reconstruct ancient aromas and use them to learn more about how we used to live.

    During the Covid-19 pandemic, many people who caught the disease temporarily lost their sense of smell, prompting a newfound appreciation of the importance of odor in their lives. New research projects are underway to understand what the past smelled like and identify what contemporary scents should be preserved for posterity.

    “It’s a very vital sense. Smell was also very important in the past and it was probably even more important because in the past not everything was so sanitized,” said Barbara Huber, a doctoral researcher of archaeology at the Max Planck Institute of Geoanthropology in Jena, Germany.

    The challenge of finding past smells is how to capture an ephemeral phenomenon: Archaeologists typically find and study things we can touch, and these are the artifacts we encounter in museums.

    Odor compounds are volatile in nature — once their source is gone, they too disappear, evaporating into the air. And most smells stem from biological materials — plants, food, human and animal bodies — that decay rapidly, Huber explained.

    Despite all these challenges, Huber said a few new and powerful biomolecular approaches are helping scientists decode ancient scents.

    The key to unraveling smells of the past is often invisible to the naked eye.

    Scientists can study imperceptible biomolecular residues left on incense burners, perfume bottles, cooking pots and food storage jars using techniques like chromatography, a process for separating components in a mixture, and mass spectrometry, which can detect different compounds by calculating the weight of different molecules.

    The most informative biomolecules, according to Huber, include lipids — fats, waxes and oils — that aren’t soluble in water. They’re often found embedded in porous ceramics, after having been used in items such as lamp fuel or scented ointments people once put on their bodies or on corpses. Lipids are also found in feces.

    Huber also studies secondary metabolites, organic compounds produced by plants and left by plant-based products used in the past, including resins, scented woods, herbs, fruits and spices. The compounds can reveal the ingredients, and scent of, incense, drugs and food.

    An Egyptian figure is shown smelling a lotus from the tomb of Meresankh in Giza, Egypt.

    Sequencing of ancient DNA and proteomics, the study of proteins found preserved in things like calcified dental plaque, have detected amino acids that signal conditions like gum disease — associated with bad breath.

    But, as Huber’s research illustrates, collecting these olfactory clues is often only the beginning.

    In her work, Huber has studied incense burners found in the archaeological site of Tayma, Saudi Arabia’s oldest settlement that dates back 5,000 years, in order to try and reconstruct the “olfactory landscape” of the ancient oasis.

    She detected secondary metabolites that revealed the use of scented resins containing frankincense, myrrh and pistachio in private buildings, graves and temples, respectively. Huber then worked with a perfumer to try and recreate the scents, revealing what these places might have smelled like thousands of years ago.

    “The resins looked really similar … but when you burn them, they have a totally different smell. So for example, the frankincense was really a rich smell — very balsamic — and you could really feel maybe this was used in order to kind of clean out the houses right to avoid an unliked smell or something like that,” Huber explained.

    Sean Coughlin, a researcher of ancient and medieval thought at the Czech Academy of Sciences, is attempting to recreate the perfumes Cleopatra herself might have worn, based on recipes recorded in ancient Egyptian texts and from inscriptions on temple walls.

    “The problem is a simple one. Normally, when you follow a recipe, you kind of know what you’re supposed to get. When you reproduce a historical recipe, you have no target,” Coughlin said.

    “What we’re really trying to do is use organic chemistry to be able to tell us something about the process, because we think that the process was actually what would determine the range of possible scents,” he added.

    Participants in a science workshop led by Sean Coughlin in Prague experiment with interpreting ancient perfume recipes.

    Coughlin likens his experiments to the testing process of the cooking show “America’s Test Kitchen.” While the results have been hit-and-miss, he said they are making progress.

    For example, one perfume recipe Coughlin studied known as Mendesian indicated that ancient perfumers heated oil for 10 days and 10 nights before infusing it with woods like cinnamon and resins like myrrh.

    “That was a big mystery to us,” he said. “If you’ve ever cooked oil for 10 days it stinks.” But after his team heated oil in test tubes for up to 12 days, Coughlin found that the technique accelerated the natural process of the oil going rancid, removing any smelly compounds and ultimately allowing the perfume to last longer.

    “There is also a stage, after heating the oil, but before making the perfume itself, where they added mildly aromatic things like roots, wine and resins. Our hypothesis is that these not only covered up the bad smell (by adding a pleasant scent), but also absorbed the bad odor in the oil,” he explained.

    A scene depicts perfumers making perfumes in the Ptolemaic period tomb of Petosiris in Egypt.

    Most present-day perfumes use ethanol, a type of alcohol, as a base, Coughlin said, although some delicate natural scents still require the use of oil or fat, which needs to be refined in some way.

    But today’s chemists still owe a lot to these ancient perfumers, he added. They pioneered many techniques still used in modern science, such as distillation and methods of fractionating liquids.

    Similarly, researchers are now taking steps to preserve currently available smells to give future generations a sense of our time and the more recent past.

    Cecilia Bembibre samples the volatile organic compounds of a historic book at the Heritage Science Lab in UCL.

    The Institute for Sustainable Heritage at UCL, a London university, identified the chemical recipe for old book smell — specifically capturing the scent of the library at St. Paul’s Cathedral in London prior to a renovation that started in 2018.

    Visitors to the library, which until the renovation had changed little since it was built in 1709, often remarked they found the old book smell appealing.

    Cecilia Bembibre sniffs a historic book at St Paul's Cathedral's library.

    “In the age of digitization, working with physical records is an increasingly rare practice, and therefore the opportunity to touch and smell the documents is perceived as valuable,” a 2017 study on the project noted.

    Researchers used information from volatile organic compounds retrieved at the library to reproduce the historic book smell. They also put together an odor wheel — a tool used by perfumers and winemakers and a first step toward documenting and archiving smells of the past.

    Cecilia Bembibre, a lecturer at the UCL Institute for Sustainable Heritage, said preserving the scent of the library was important because the smell was an integral part of its identity.

    “Since the space has been undergoing important conservation work in the last few years, and the collection was removed, it is reasonable to assume the scent has gone,” said Bembibre, who’s also a participant in Odeuropa, a European research project that aims to bring historic aromas back to life. “Now the preservation kit we created…(is) now the only existing archive of a lost heritage smell.”

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  • Neanderthals cooked meals with pulses 70,000 years ago | CNN

    Neanderthals cooked meals with pulses 70,000 years ago | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    Stone Age cooks were surprisingly sophisticated, combining an array of ingredients and using different techniques to prepare and flavor their meals, analysis of some the earliest charred food remains has suggested.

    Plant material found at the Shanidar Cave in northern Iraq — which is famous for its burial of a Neanderthal surrounded by flowers — and Franchthi Cave in Greece revealed prehistoric cooking by Neanderthals and early modern humans was complex, involving several steps, and that the foods used were diverse, according to a new study published in the journal Antiquity.

    Wild nuts, peas, vetch, a legume which had edible seed pods, and grasses were often combined with pulses like beans or lentils, the most commonly identified ingredient, and at times, wild mustard. To make the plants more palatable, pulses, which have a naturally bitter taste, were soaked, coarsely ground or pounded with stones to remove their husk.

    At Shanidar Cave, the researchers studied plant remains from 70,000 years ago, when the space was inhabited by Neanderthals, an extinct species of human, and 40,000 years ago, when it was home to early modern humans (Homo sapiens).

    The charred food remains from Franchthi Cave dated from 12,000 years ago, when it was also occupied by hunter-gatherer Homo sapiens.

    Despite the distance in time and space, similar plants and cooking techniques were identified at both sites — possibly suggesting a shared culinary tradition, said the study’s lead author Dr. Ceren Kabukcu, an archaeobotanical scientist at the University of Liverpool in the United Kingdom.

    Based on the food remains researchers analyzed, Neanderthals, the heavy-browed hominins who disappeared about 40,000 years ago, and Homo sapiens appeared to use similar ingredients and techniques, she added, although wild mustard was only found at Shanidar Cave dating back to when it was occupied by Homo sapiens.

    A breadlike substance was found at the Greek cave, although it wasn’t clear what it was made from. The evidence that ancient humans pounded and soaked pulses at Shanidar Cave 70,000 years ago is the earliest direct evidence outside Africa of the processing of plants for food, according to Kabukcu.

    Kabukcu said she was surprised to find that prehistoric people were combining plant ingredients in this way, an indication that flavor was clearly important. She had expected to find only starchy plants like roots and tubers, which on face value appear to be more nutritious and are easier to prepare.

    Much research on prehistoric diets has focused on whether early humans were predominantly meat eaters, but Kabukcu said it was clear they weren’t just chomping on woolly mammoth steaks. Our ancient ancestors ate a varied diet depending on where they lived, and this likely included a wide range of plants.

    A Neanderthal hearth was unearthed at Shanidar Cave, where charred plant remains were also found.

    Such creative cooking techniques were once thought to have emerged only with the shift from the hunter-gatherer lifestyle to humans’ focus on agriculture — known as the Neolithic transition — that took place between 6,000 to 10,000 years ago.

    What’s more, she said, the research suggested life in the Stone Age was not just a brutal fight to survive, at least at these two sites, and that prehistoric humans selectively foraged a variety of different plants and understood their different flavor profiles.

    John McNabb, a professor at the Centre for the Archaeology of Human Origins at the University of Southampton in the UK said that scientific understanding of the Neanderthal diet has changed significantly “as we move away from the idea of them just consuming huge quantities of hunted game meat.”

    “More data is needed from Shanidar, but if these results are supported then Neanderthals were eating pulses and some species from the grass family that required careful preparation before consumption. Sophisticated techniques of food preparation had a much deeper history than previously thought,” McNabb, who wasn’t involved in the research, said via email.

    “Even more intriguing is the possibility that they did not deliberately extract all the unpalatable toxins. Some were left in the food, as the presence of seed coatings suggests — that part of the seed where the bitterness is especially located. A Neanderthal flavor of choice.”

    A separate study into prehistoric diets that also published Tuesday analyzed ancient humans’ oral microbiome — fungi, bacteria and viruses that reside in the mouth — by using ancient DNA from dental plaque.

    Researchers led by Andrea Quagliariello, a postdoctoral research fellow in comparative biomedicine and food at the University of Padua in Italy, examined the oral microbiomes of 76 individuals who lived in prehistoric Italy over a period of 30,000 years, as well as microscopic food remains found in calcified plaque.

    A human jawbone was excavated from a Neolithic site in southern Italy.

    Quagliariello and his team were able to identify trends in diet and cooking techniques, such as the introduction of fermentation and milk, and a shift to a greater reliance on carbohydrates associated with an agriculture-based diet.

    McNabb said it was impressive that researchers had been able chart changes over such a long period of time.

    “What the study also does is support the growing idea that the Neolithic was not the sudden arrival of new subsistence practices and new cultures as it was once thought to be. It appears to be a slower transition,” McNabb, who wasn’t involved in the study, said via email.

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  • A ‘Great British Bake Off’ episode is getting heat for stereotyping Mexican culture | CNN

    A ‘Great British Bake Off’ episode is getting heat for stereotyping Mexican culture | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    A recent episode of “The Great British Bake Off” is drawing criticism from some viewers for its depictions of Mexican culture.

    In the “Mexican Week” episode of the reality competition series, which aired in the UK on Tuesday and was released in the US on Friday, contestants are tasked with making pan dulce, tacos and tres leches cake – dishes that critics saw as cliché and uninspired. The hosts, meanwhile, pepper in attempts at tongue-in-cheek humor that not all viewers found funny.

    In the opening scene, hosts Noel Fielding and Matt Lucas wear sombreros and serapes while quipping about whether people might find such jokes offensive. At another point, Fielding muses, “So, is Mexico a real place?” while Lucas, in turn, likens the country to Xanadu. Other scenes include Lucas shaking maracas and contestants butchering pronunciations for guacamole and pico de gallo.

    The episode’s flippant tone and use of stereotypes rubbed many viewers the wrong way.

    Lesley Tellez, a food journalist and author of the cookbook “Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City’s Streets, Markets and Fondas,” said that while she hadn’t seen the full episode, she found the snippets that were circulating on social media unimaginative.

    Despite its diversity, Mexican cuisine gets overshadowed in the culinary world by European cuisines, she added, and the show’s treatment of it perpetuates misconceptions.

    “I think they should have been a lot more thoughtful about it,” Tellez told CNN. “It reduces Mexican food to stereotypes – to being this two-dimensional cuisine.”

    Though it would have veered from the show’s typical format, Tellez said she would have liked to see “The Great British Bake Off” bring in a Mexican chef as a guest, as opposed to having two White, British judges serve as authorities.

    Alejandra Ramos, host of “The Great American Recipe” on PBS and a chef of Puerto Rican descent, said the episode reflected a lack of diversity behind and in front of the camera.

    “This would have been a perfect moment to bring in a Mexican guest judge or host to lead the discussions on camera and to guide the contestants,” she wrote in an email to CNN. “There should have also been consultants with actual Mexican cultural and food background and expertise brought in to consult on the story, scripting, food styling and challenges – as well as the post-production and marketing.”

    Ramos also questioned why a baking competition would challenge contestants to make tacos – a point viewers of the show have also called out on social media.

    “Mexico has incredible pastries, cakes, breads, and even baked savory dishes that they could have made instead,” she said. “But that would have called for more actual knowledge about Mexican culture and cuisine which is clearly lacking here.”

    CNN has reached out to “The Great British Bake Off” for comment.

    Since the first episode aired in 2010, “The Great British Bake Off” – which streams stateside as “The Great British Baking Show” – has become a cultural phenomenon, soothing viewers with its spirit of camaraderie and offering them an escape. Still, it’s garnered complaints of cultural insensitivity before.

    During a “Japanese Week” episode in 2020, some contestants devised concoctions that instead relied on Chinese and Indian flavors, which some critics said amounted to conflating distinct Asian cuisines. That same episode saw Lucas refer to katsu curry as “cat poo curry.”

    “Anyone who’s watched GBBO also knows how prickly the judges get when they think something has too much spice, how easily they exoticize non-British foods, and how the standard marker of a good baker is their ability to make a Victoria Sponge,” Jaya Saxena wrote in a 2020 article for Eater.

    Former contestants have also spoken out on the show’s diversity issues.

    In an interview with Insider last year, Rav Bansal called for new hosts and judges who were better versed in non-English ingredients and recipes, and who could better reflect the show’s diverse cast of contestants. Ali Imdad expressed surprise that production staff had allowed certain missteps to occur. Ruby Tandoh referred to the show as a “strange vehicle for change,” writing in an essay for the food publication Heated that it had launched the careers of several Black and brown chefs while being “steeped in the symbolism of an old-fashioned, implicitly white Britishness.”

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