Cristian Orozco has come a long way from his start in the hospitality industry as a dishwasher at a Vietnamese restaurant. Since arriving in the U.S. from Guatemala at 17 years old, Orozco has spent the last 12 years methodically working his way up the culinary food chain with kitchen gigs at celebrated restaurants like Acadia, Tzuco, and North Pond.
In early February, he’s continuing his journey with the opening of Fulton River District’s Mazor, a counter-service restaurant featuring tostadas, tacos, and empanadas built on a foundation of fresh masa. Intimate monthly tasting menu dinners will provide a creative fine dining outlet for Orozco.
Through the menu, Orozco explores ingredients and dishes from his Guatemalan upbringing as well as Mexico, the border of which was 10 minutes away from where he grew up. “We used to eat in Mexico during the day, and then we would come back home and eat Guatemalan food,” says Orozco. He’d often accompany his mom on shopping trips to Mexico to stock the grocery stores she owned in Guatemala.
At Mazor, Orozco will use three types of fresh nixtamalized masa from Pilsen’s El Popocatepetl Tortilleria, a third-generation family-owned business, including blue corn masa made from corn sourced from Puebla, Mexico. Tortillas will be hand-pressed to order.
Starters include homemade guacamole and guacasalsa, a special salsa-guacamole blend, both paired with fresh heirloom corn chips. A bluefin tuna tostada will come topped with salsa macha and avocado, while a vegetarian tostada includes shiitakes, roasted zucchini, black beans, and queso fresco. Tacos range from al pastor and chicken tinga to rib-eye with grilled onions and crispy potato strings.
That blue corn masa will be used for empanadas as well as sopesitos, the latter of which are topped with homemade chorizo, refried beans, crema, and pickled onions. Tetelas filled with roasted mushrooms and Oaxacan cheese will be crisped up on a comal and served with avocado mousse.
Heartier dishes include a torta Milanesa de res (a pounded, breaded steak sandwich with chipotle aioli, Chihuahua cheese, and beans), a small selection of burritos, and a Guatemalan-style shrimp cocktail served with crispy tostadas.
On the beverage side, Mazor will offer horchata and aguas frescas. There’ll be café de olla (Mexican spiced coffee), too, utilizing Guatemalan coffee sourced from Sparrow Coffee. For now, Mazor is BYOB.
The interior of Mazor, which seats 30, will be modern and simple with touches of rich blue color in the predominantly white 700-square-foot space. For the monthly ticketed tasting menu dinners, the ordering counter will morph into a chef’s counter and seat six diners for the six- to eight-course meal that might include ingredients like caviar and huitlacoche. “We’re going to introduce more Guatemalan flavors along the way,” says Orozco of both the tasting and daily menus.
Orozco most recently was the chef and owner of Five O Four Kitchen, a Glen Ellyn restaurant featuring a create-your-own five-course tasting menu. It earned a spot in Chicago Magazine’s best suburb restaurant and bar feature before it closed last September. “I trusted people I shouldn’t have,” says Orozco of the closure.
For his new venture, Orozco has partnered with real estate developer Anthony White, who owns the multi-storied building that houses Mazor. Interested in the space but lacking the funds to invest, Orozco emailed White on a whim to see if he was interested in partnering. “I had nothing to lose,” says Orozco. “He actually said yes, and I came up with a concept.”
That why-not attitude also helped Orozco get his foot in the door of restaurants like the now-closed Acadia. He messaged chef Ryan McCaskey of the two-Michelin-starred restaurant for an opportunity to work there. “I didn’t have enough experience, but he saw that I wanted to learn, and that I wanted to be there,” says Orozco. That experience led to other fine dining restaurants, including Tzuco, where he became chef de cuisine.
Beyond the financial lesson, Orozco learned the importance of time off from his last restaurant — both for himself and his staff.
“At the place I used to own, I was there seven days a week, 20 hours a day and I didn’t get to see my kids. I don’t want to make that mistake again,” he says. “We’re going to be closed on Sundays because I want to give the people that work with me the chance to be with their families.”
Mazor opens around the second week of February at 485 N. Milwaukee Avenue; open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; closed on Sundays.
A counter-service Guatemalan Mexican restaurant, Mazor’s menu centers on preparations of fresh nixtamalized corn masa with monthly ticketed tasting menu dinners led by chef Cristian Orozco.
Lisa Shames
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