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Tag: Coffee

  • The Team From Chicago’s Only Michelin-Starred Indian Restaurant Is Opening a Cafe

    The Team From Chicago’s Only Michelin-Starred Indian Restaurant Is Opening a Cafe

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    The team from Chicago’s only Michelin-starred Indian restaurant, Indienne, is opening a cafe where customers can sip fresh-brewed masala chai. Swadesi Cafe should open next week in the West Loop with unique pastries like samosa chaat croissants stuffed with spicy potatoes and a pleasant hint of tart tamarind. The menu also includes chicken tikka toasties with chicken, cheddar, cilantro, and mint.

    Indienne chef Sujan Sarkar worked on the food alongside chef Sahil Sethi, his collaborator who oversees Sifr (ownership’s Middle Eastern restaurant in West Loop). But the man in charge of day-to-day operations at Swadesi is Yash Kishinchand. He’s a recent graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Napa where students run a cafe. That’s where Kishinchand received his only barista training.

    Sarkar has toyed with the idea for a cafe for years. Kishinchand moved from Columbus, Ohio to Chicago to open St. Regis Chicago — the luxury downtown hotel that now houses Tre Dita and Miru. After he left the hotel, Sarkar offered him a chance to open Swadesi inside the former Ruin Daily at 328 S. Jefferson Street.

    Kishinchand who enjoys brandishing a chef’s torch — he keeps a shiny gold-colored one handy for the finishing touches on treats like jaggery chocolate chip cookies — is trained in French cooking, and says he wasn’t as familiar with Indian ingredients and he received an education from chefs Sarkar and Sethi when creating Swadesi menu. The cafe’s name is derived from “desi,” a term that often refers to Indian Americans. The menu intends to reflect their tastes in combining cultures. How else would you explain the cheesy potato tikki tots? And it’s not just South Asian, a carrot halwa cake gives a taste of the Middle East.

    This bakery approach isn’t that different from Kasama’s where pastry chef and co-owner Genie Kwon combines her husband’s Filipino culture and her Korean heritage with French pastry. In Lincoln Park, Indian native Arshiya Farheen has slipped in subcontinental influences in her pastries at Verzenay Patisserie.

    There’s been a wave of interest in Indian egg sandwiches. Mini chain Eggoholic helped popularize them locally, and places like Superkhana International have taken them to another level. Swadesi will offer its own with avocado on a spiced potato rosti — yes, the Swiss get a say. There’s also a butter chicken croissant with burrata.

    Finding the literal sweet spot for masala chai in Chicago has been a challenge. Swadesi will allow customers to customize the sweetness levels with sugar, and down the line, alternate sweeteners may be offered. For now, the masala chai is made to order whole milk, but an oat milk ready-to-go version is available. These drinks fundamentally differ from the chai lattes most coffee shops serve made from concentrate. Masala chai specialists, ones who brew black tea with South Asian spices (Swadesi uses ginger, rose, and cardamom), aren’t frequent in Chicago. Chiya Chai and Superkhana in Logan Square are locals’ best bets. Along Devon, Sukhadia’s Sweets and Snacks is a popular and quick option. Some Indian restaurants don’t offer the beverage. In Avondale, Thattu, which specializes in cuisine from the southern state of Kerala, serves South Indian filter coffee. Brewing masala chai takes time, but so does preparing pour-over coffee, so there’s a labor precedent if a demand emerges.

    But it’s not just about tradition. Swadesi also plans to serve a cold nitro masala chai.

    Eventually, Swadesi will extend hours and Kishinchand says they’re hoping to sell beer and liquor. The focus is on morning and evening service, but dinner pop-ups are a possibility.

    Swadesi, 328 S. Jefferson Street, opening Monday, March 26.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Vertex Coffee Roasters is opening a second location in Ypsilanti’s former Cultivate space

    Vertex Coffee Roasters is opening a second location in Ypsilanti’s former Cultivate space

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    Since the unexpected closure of Cultivate Coffee and Taphouse in February 2022, Ypsilanti residents have been eagerly hoping for some sort of comeback for the beloved cafe. Finally, Vertex Coffee Roasters is breathing new life into the space at 307 N. River St., with an opening set for March 23.

    This will mark the second location for Vertex, whose home base is at 1355 S. University Ave. in Ann Arbor. The women- and queer-owned space was opened in 2019 by Kara Soto and her wife Mackenzie.

    The cafe serves coffee and tea crafted with housemade syrups, as well as 12-ounce and 16-ounce bags of beans straight from the company’s roastery in Milan. Plus, Vertex prides itself on a commitment to sustainability, helping produce less waste by recycling, using all compostable materials, and more.

    Vertex first announced its Ypsilanti location through an Instagram post in late January with a photo of the building captioned “New location unlocked.”

    People were immediately excited.

    No one was sure when the space would re-open though, but earlier this week, another Instagram update announced a soft opening will take place on Saturday, March 23 from 7 a.m.-5 p.m.

    “We will be introducing new menu items slowly over the next few weeks, but we are so excited to open up the space!” the post reads. “This weekend we will have coffee and toasts/sandwiches! Our zero-proof bar is in the works and opening soon.”

    While Cultivate served both coffee and alcohol, Vertex currently has no plans to get a liquor license.

    The hours for the new coffee shop will be Monday through Sunday from 7 a.m.-5 p.m.

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    Layla McMurtrie

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  • Eggless Tiramisu | Kitchen Nostalgia

    Eggless Tiramisu | Kitchen Nostalgia

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    Eggless Tiramisu | Kitchen Nostalgia






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