Tag: care guide

How to Grow and Keep Your Monstera Plant Happy – Garden Therapy
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Everyone’s talking about monsteras! These houseplants have some of the most impressive-looking leaves, coated in slits and holes to make them especially unique. The star of the room, learn how to care for your prized monstera plant.

The plant world had no idea what was in store for them the second interior designers started posting photos of monstera plants on Instagram. Arguably the most popular houseplant of the decade, everyone and their cousin seems to have a monstera plant somewhere in their home.

And for good reason! These plants sure know how to draw the eye and become the focal point of the room. Their dramatic leaves add a tropical flair that has inspired prints from bedsheets to wallpaper. You know exactly what I’m talking about!

Join in on the monstera craze and learn how to care for these tropical beauties.

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Known as leaf fenestration, monstera leaves have natural holes and slits in their leaves.

Meet the Monstera Plant

Native to the rainforests of Central America, monstera plants come from the Araceae family. They’re known for their dramatic leaves with slits in them. Leathery and glossy, they make a statement in whatever room they’re in.

Their signature slits or holes are known as fenestrations. Outdoors, the slits allow rain and sunlight to go through and reach the roots and leaves below. Due to its holes, the monstera has also earned its alternative name of a Swiss cheese plant.

Out in the wild, you might see the monstera plant flowering. Tan or cream in colour, they’re popular with the bees and butterflies and turn into a fruit with rich and delicious taste. However, monstera houseplants won’t flower or fruit!

Monstera can grow fast, up to 1-2 ft a year. They can get 2-3 ft wide and up to 3 ft tall. Natural climbers, they sprout many aerial roots in addition to their leaves.

A small aerial root growing on a monstera.

Types of Monstera Plants

With over 48 species of monstera plants, there’s an incredible variety of monstera types out there. In fact, many are often mislabelled because they change so much in appearance as they grow. Here are some popular varieties that you

Monstera deliciosa is the most popularized type of monstera.
- Monstera deliciosa. The most popular type out there and the one you’re most likely to find at your local garden centre. They have the classic large, glossy green leaves with slits in them.
- Monstera borsigniana. A variation of deliciosa. At first, it’s hard to tell the difference between the two types when young. However, borsigniana are smaller and grow faster. The slits tend to be in rows rather than at random like the deliciosa.
- Monstera variegata. These monsteras are very popular and can be difficult to find and therefore more expensive. They’re known for a distinct colour variation of white and cream that almost looks painted on.
- Monstera adansonii. Smaller than most of the others, the adansonii appears more vine-like. The holes stills take up about 50% of the leaf, with some appearing round and others more narrow.
- Monstera dubia. Also known as the shingle plant, the dubia has smaller leaves with light and dark green veining. This is also a rarer variety; their leaves appear almost variegated.
Monstera adansonii are a smaller type of monstera that vines.

Monstera Plant Care

Monsteras aren’t too finicky, but they can be a little tempermental for beginner houseplant growers. Every plant has its ideal lifestyle, so here are some tips on proper monstera plant care.

Location

Swiss cheese plants add a dramatic flair wherever you place them, be it your living room or office. When placing it, keep in mind that they don’t like cold drafts and heaters. Their optimal temperature is 60-80°F (15-27°C). They don’t like to go below 55°F (12.8°C).

In the wild, they like to climb upwards. To encourage this growth, give them a moss pole. Otherwise, they will grow outwards and take up quite a bit of room.

Most types of monstera need a climbing support of some kind, like a moss pole.

Light

Monster plants will happily sit in a not-so-sunny corner. They’re fairly tolerant of low light which makes them great for the areas of your home that need a little brightening up with some greenery.

If you really want your monstera to thrive, place it in bright, indirect light. Be careful not to place it in direct sunlight as this can burn the leaves.

Water

Monster plants should be watered when the top 2-3 inches of the soil are dry. Use your finger and stick it in the soil to test for dryness. When it’s time to water, water thoroughly until you see water draining through the bottom holes. Toss out any excess water from the saucer.

You want your monstera to dry out completely between waterings. In the summer, you will need to water fairly regularly and only occasionally during the cool season.

Coming from rainforests, monstera plants like a fair amount of humidity. You can mist your plant once a week in the morning for extra humidity. You can make a humidity tray to help.

Monstera plants thrive with humidity.

Soil

Use well-draining soil designed with houseplants in mind. You should keep the soil somewhat moist, but it should be in a pot with drainage holes to avoid any wet feet (which can lead to root rot).

Fill your soil in a deep pot to accommodate the roots. The pot should be a few inches wider and deeper than the pot it came in.

Fertilizer

During the growth season, from spring to summer, fertilize your Swiss cheese plant once a month or every other week. Use a water-soluble fertilizer and always apply it to wet soil.

Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter.

Common Issues

Yellow leaves are a sign of improper watering. Only water your Swiss cheese plant when the top is dry, and water thoroughly in one go. Yellowing leaves may also indicate it’s not getting enough light.

Leaves with brown edges mean the plant needs more humidity. If left unresolved, they will also turn yellow before falling off.

Limp leaves mean the plant is likely not getting enough water. Give it a good soaking in the bathtub and let all the excess water drain out.

The aerial roots can also get unruly. While you can trim them, it’s best to try and tuck them back down into the pot.

Because of their large leaves, they can get dusty. To remove dust, wipe them down with a damp sponge or paper towel.

If the leaves on your monster aren’t splitting, it likely means it’s not getting enough light. Try moving it to another location and also pay attention to your watering schedule.

Propagating Your Monstera Plant

The easiest way to propagate monstera plants is by taking stem cuttings and placing them in water. Here’s how to propagate them:
1. Take your cutting using sanitized pruners. The cutting could be cut below the node (where a leaf has or will emerge), have an aerial root, and at least two leaves.
2. Place your cutting in a vase or glass of water.
3. Change the water every 2-3 days. After a couple of months, the cutting should have roots long enough to plant.
4. Plant your monstera in new potting soil. Add in a moss pole for support and future climbing.
You can also propagate by air layering, but this method is more difficult for beginners.

Once the roots are about 4-6 inches long, you can plant your monstera propagations in soil.

Frequently Asked Questions About Monstera Plants

Are monstera plants toxic?

Monstera plants are mildly toxic for humans and pets. If consumed, it can cause irritation of the mouth and stomach.

Are monstera plants easy to care for?

As far as houseplants go, the monstera is fairly hardy. If you give them the right light and water, they’ll be happy as a clam. Most people struggle with monsters by not giving them any growing support, a lack of humidity, and improper watering.

How do I know if my monstera plant is happy?

A monstera that is happy and thriving will have lots of new growth and split leaves. Unhappy monsteras will have yellow leaves, brown tips, no split leaves, slow growth, and might sprawl to try and reach sunlight.

Do you have any more questions about monstera plants? Leave them in the comments below, and I’ll do my best to answer them!

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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose

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January 19, 2026
How to Care for Mum Flowers and Keep Them Blooming All Year Long

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It’s hard to think of a flower that screams fall as much as mums do. These plants pop up practically everywhere this season, with good reason. They are hardy plants that can withstand the changing climate and add lovely pops of colour to your porch. Here’s how to care for mum flowers and keep them thriving.

One of the most frequent questions I get asked in the fall is how to care for mums and extend the blooms of these hardy plants! Hardy Mums, Chrysanthemums, or Fall Mums are everywhere in the fall: garden centres, grocery stores, and seemingly everyone in the neighbourhood’s front porch.

These vibrant autumn bloomers are easy to care for and come in many different colours and sizes, making them a great choice for any garden or fall planter project. They also happen to be affordable and, with the proper care, can last quite a while.

Many people just buy a potted mum in the fall and toss it away after its blooms are finished. With a little care and know-how, you can actually overwinter mums and even propagate them so that mum flowers you bought in the fall can keep brightening your garden year after year.

Read on to find out how to choose, plant, overwinter, propagate, and care for hardy mums.

Jump ahead to…

Why Grow Hardy Mums?

Hardy mums are drought-resistant, don’t generally get a lot of diseases or attract pests, and are very low maintenance. Additionally, this late-season bloomer comes in a wide variety of colours and sizes, so it will look at home in any style of garden.

Fall mums can be planted in containers or in the ground and take well to propagation and creative planter projects like pumpkin planters.

Tips for Picking Mums That Will Last

Many garden centres are selling hardy mums for fall, as they are such a great way to add some vibrant colour to the autumn garden. I’ve also seen them in grocery stores, as well as home improvement stores.

Here’s a simple tip that can help you choose the longest-lasting mums possible. It can be tempting to buy a plant that is already bursting with gorgeous jewel-toned flowers but pick one that is not in full bloom yet. Instead, choose a plant that has a lot of buds and lush green foliage that does not look at all wilted.

Fall mums that are already covered in open flowers may be at or past their peak blooming time and will not last much longer, while plants that are just at the budding stage will give you a much longer display. It’s worth the wait!

A well-selected mum should give you blooms for 3-4 weeks, helping you to extend the joys of the growing season.

How to Plant Mums in the Garden

If you wish to transplant your hardy mums from a container to your garden, be sure to do it before the first frost of the season. The earlier you get your mum in the ground, the more likely it will survive the winter.

Make sure you plant them in a location that gets about six hours of sun per day and has well-draining soil.

Do not fertilize mums in the fall, as this can negatively affect blooming. If you purchased your mums in the spring, you can fertilize them up until early summer. I tend to only fertilize potted plants as anything in the garden is already getting what it needs via soil!

Watering Hardy Mums

Mums require little on the gardener’s part, except for a little watering. Water new transplants thoroughly and often, never letting them dry out completely.

Once established, you can reduce watering to once a week. Browning bottom leaves and dropping flowers are signs of not watering enough.

Overwintering Hardy Mums

You can overwinter hardy mums, but to do so, they need sufficient time to set their roots and become established in the garden. This means that your best bet is planting them in the spring so that by the time winter rolls around, they are ready to handle it.

However, if you bought and planted your mums in the fall, you can still overwinter them as long as they went into the ground before the first frost—they will just need a little extra care.

Don’t prune fall-planted mums. The wilted brown foliage will act as protection from the harsh winter cold. After the first frost, mulch mums generously. A thick layer of leaves covering them will do wonders for winter protection.

Overwintering Mum Flowers in Pots

If your fall mums are in pots, keep them there over the winter. You can move the potted mum flowers to a protected spot such as beneath an evergreen tree with low sheltering branches, by the side of a building, or inside a garden shed. This will shield them from the cold and help them survive the winter.

Overwintering will only work with hardy mums. Florist mums make a lovely annual but will not come back year after year.

Spring Mums Care for Fall Flowers

If you overwintered your fall mums, cut back the old stems as soon as you see them beginning to re-grow as one of your spring gardening tasks.

To encourage your mums to bloom again in the fall, you will need to “pinch” them. This means that once the plant has grown to about five inches in height, you should cut one to two inches of new growth from each shoot. After the plant grows another four to five inches, repeat the process.

Keep doing this until mid-July for bushy mum flowers that bloom like crazy in the fall. If you do not pinch back your mums, they will bloom in mid-summer and will not bloom again in the fall. And we want as much colour in the fall as possible!

Propagating Mum Flowers

Mums take very well to propagation. To get even more mums, take a cutting of new growth and remove the bottom leaves. Plant the cutting into a small pot filled with good quality, well-draining soil.

To speed up the rooting process, dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone before planting it in the soil. Once the plant has taken root and is growing healthily, you can transplant it to a larger container or to the garden.

Frequently Asked Questions About Mum Flowers

When do mums bloom?

Without pinching, mums will naturally bloom in mid-summer. To prevent this, you want to begin pinching the plant for every 5 inches of growth beginning in the spring through to mid-July. Then, you’ll get the classic fall blooming mums.

If you buy potted mums, you can expect them to also bloom in the fall. For the most part, you won’t even begin to see mums until the end of summer to early fall, when the plant already has buds and blooms.

What can you do with potted mums after blooming?

If it’s before the first frost, you can try to overwinter your mums by planting them in the garden. This allows them some time to set roots before the cold settles in. Don’t prune them, and cover the base with a good layer of mulch.

You can also try to leave them in the container. In this case, move them to a place where they’ll be protected, like underneath an evergreen tree or in a garden shed.

There you have it. You can now enjoy the beauty of mums all year long! Let me know of any more questions in the comments down below.

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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

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Stephanie Rose

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September 3, 2025
African Violet Care: Proper Care and Propagation Tips – Garden Therapy
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With fuzzy leaves and pretty flowers that come in white, purple, and blue, African violets are a charming houseplant. This guide will show you exactly how to help your favourite houseplant thrive with African violet care tips that really work. Plus, learn how to propagate your plants too!

African violets are known as friendship plant and are often used as a symbol of loyalty, devotion, and faithfulness. For those reasons, it’s long been a favourite for gifting! Whether you purchased one of these cheerful plants or received one as a gift, this guide will help you keep them thriving.

I’ll show you how to care for African violets as well as some of my propagation tips so you can have violets galore! It truly is the gift that keeps giving.

With proper care, African violets can provide almost continuous blooms in a rainbow of colours and leaf shapes. Although flower size, petal type, and colour vary widely, plants generally grow from four to seven inches tall, with hairy leaves and tightly grouped clusters of flowers.

The African violet belongs to the family Saintpaulia and is native to Africa. They are one of the most popular cultivated houseplants in the world today and are particularly well suited to the home environment. There are now thousands of varieties in existence, with new hybrids being developed almost daily.

So, without further ado, here’s my African violet care guide!

While they may appear similar, African violets are not part of the violet family, Violaceae.

Basics of African Violet Care

Although African Violets are hardy little plants, they still require their own unique care. Follow these steps and you will have a happy little plant that likes to share their blooms with you.

Wicking African Violets for Better Water Delivery

Proper watering is essential to African violet care. In fact, keeping these plants healthy often comes down to watering. By far, the most common way to kill an African violet is to overwater it. There are a few things you can do to ensure you are properly watering your violet.

Always water at the base of the plant, and avoid getting water on the leaves. Leaves are susceptible to rot if they get too moist. You also want to ensure you only water with room temperature water as cold water can chill the roots and cause your leaves to curl downwards. Only water once a week and allow the plant to completely dry between waterings.

One ingenious way of making sure your African violets are never over-watered is by setting up a wicking system. To do so, draw three lengths of string from different points at the base of the plant down through the soil and out the hole at the bottom of the pot. With marbles or small stones, raise the pot off the drip tray by at least half an inch. Secure the strings under the layer of stones.

When you place water in the tray, it is drawn up through the strings into the planting medium where the roots have safe access to it. This method of watering ensures that the plant receives a regular source of moisture but is never left with its roots sitting in water.

With the right care, African violets can live up to 50 years!

The Best Soil for African Violets

For African violets to flourish, they require a special soil composed of two parts peat moss alternatives, one part perlite, and one part standard potting mix. This keeps the soil well-aerated. The soil should be loose and well-drained. You can also add organic matter to the mix if you wish.

When selecting pots, the smaller the better! African violets do well in small pots and don’t necessarily need to be repotted very often. You can repot into a slightly larger pot once a year, but they also will flourish and produce more blooms when rootbound.

African Violet Care – Keeping Them Healthy

African violets are very hardy and do best in indirect or filtered sunlight. If it is getting too much light, you may notice brown spots forming on the plant. On the opposite side, a violet that is not getting enough light will produce thin, dark leaves and leggy stems. Other indicators include yellowing leaves and failure to produce blooms.

To ensure your plant is getting equal amounts of light, try rotating the pot every time you water. Otherwise, you may notice your plant reaching for the light. This isn’t unique to violets and is actually a good routine to implement for most houseplants.

I recommend fertilizing your violets every two weeks during the spring and summer seasons. They also need an acidic fertilizer specially designed for them. You can fertilize with specific African violet food or a fertilizer with a high phosphorous level. I make my own fertilizer and use it on all my houseplants. If you notice reduced flowers and pale leaves, it could mean that your violet is not getting enough fertilizer.

When it comes to temperature, your African violet will follow you. If you feel comfortable, so will your African violet. They also really like humidity, so if that’s something you also enjoy, then you have even more traits in common!

Although their temperature requirements are not critical if they are maintained in the home, they should be kept well back from the window if temperatures outside are going to be near or below freezing.

Encouraging More Blooms

Most people buy African violets to appreciate their blooms. When we fail to get blooms or have very few, that’s when we begin to scratch our heads. If there are no flowers, it could mean the plant is not getting enough light. Alternatively, violets need at least eight hours of darkness to bloom which could be an issue if you use grow lights.

Another reason could actually be too many leaves. Each rosette of leaves will produce one round of flowers. If you prune off the largest outer layer of leaves, it will encourage more violet blooms.

As mentioned earlier, keeping your violet rootbound can also encourage them to bloom. Finally, always remove spent flowers and foliage to encourage your violet to produce more. Look at your violet and see if any of these may be the culprit behind zero blooms!

Propagating African Violets

Who doesn’t want a ton of tiny little African violets!? I like to propagate African violets often since they look so lovely in clusters. Always be sure to start off with more cuttings than you think you’ll need, as all of them may not be successful.

Whether you want more or you are propagating a bunch for gifting, this is my surefire way to propagate violets.

Propagating African violets from cuttings are the easiest way to get more plants.
1. Choose healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, as the outer ones will be too old and the inner ones will be too young.
2. Make a cutting at the base of the stem, careful to leave no stem on the host plant as it will rot. Shorten your cuttings to one inch.
3. Water your soil and place it into SMALL containers. Poke a pencil in the soil to make room for the stem.
4. Optional. Lightly dip your stem into a rooting hormone and tap off the excess. This will help encourage the leaf to grow roots.
5. Place your stem into the soil, letting the tip of the leaf just touch the surface of the soil. Pat down the soil firmly.
6. Put a support behind your leaf to help hold it up.
7. Optional. Place your pots in a makeshift greenhouse, such as an empty salad container. This will help to keep the humidity level in and keep warm temperatures.
8. Place your cutting in a well-lit, bright spot that won’t get too hot. Wait and be patient!
9. Transplant when the leaf has sprouted a good root system and a few small leaflets have grown.
Wait until there are some leaflets formed before planting your cuttings.

African Violet Care FAQs

Can you propagate African violets from seed?

Most people choose to propagate African violets from cuttings or plant divisions, but it is possible to grow them from seed. However, you need to cross-pollinate two plants for the plant to produce seeds, and the resulting seeds may not be the same type of African violet as the parents.

For this reason, it’s best to purchase seeds from a reputable seller rather than try to save the seeds yourself. I have not personally grown African violets from seed, but other sources say they’re fairly simple to start from seed.

Why are my African violet blooms small?

Your flowers can change based on the conditions in which they grew. When you first get them, they might have big blooms because they grew in a greenhouse with optimal conditions. At your home, they might have less sunlight or fertilizer than they’re used to, so they’ll produce smaller blooms. The more favourable the conditions, the bigger the blooms will be.

How many times a year do African violets bloom?

When properly cared for, African violets can bloom year-round. To encourage more blooms, make sure to deadhead any spent blooms by trimming them with sterilized scissors. Correct light is also essential.

I hope by now, African violets are a little less intimidating than they were before! With a little planning and understanding, African violets can beautify your home and be fun and easy to grow.

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Stephanie Rose

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October 21, 2024
Stop and Smell the Roses! How to Plant and Care for a Rose Bush
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If you ask someone to name a flower, chances are they’ll say a rose. One of the most sought-after and beautiful flowers to plant in the garden, growing a rose bush is practically a right of passage for a gardener. Read this guide to learn how to plant, care for, and use your rose bush. Soon enough, you’ll have your own rose garden!

I have a confession…I’m not a big fan of roses. Coming from a gal whose last name is literally ROSE, I’m sure you’ll find this surprising. But the love for roses was just never there!

When I first moved to my current house, the back garden bed was nothing but a wall of roses and raspberries. I’m talking a 5-foot-tall wave of thorns! With thick gloves on hand, I ripped them all out and gave them away.

I transformed the garden into something else entirely. Now, you’ll find it the home to my wildlife pond and hopscotch steppingstones.

It wasn’t long before I regretted my decision to remove the roses. Along my healing journey, I learned all about the herbal properties of roses. And when I realized just how amazing they were besides their beauty, I fell in love.

Roses make for beautiful cut flowers, and they taste like delicate summer. They are extremely forgiving to grow and take well to hard pruning.

Amazing for the skin, I can’t harvest them fast enough. Whenever I head back to my original home of Alberta (known as Canada’s wild rose country), I make sure to gather some petals from wild roses and dry them. Once dried, they get featured in all my rose recipes.

But enough talk about the love of roses (for now!). If you’re here, it means I don’t have to do much convincing!

Jump ahead to…

Meet the Rose Bush

There truly is a rose for every occasion and person out there. With over 150 species and thousands of hybrids, roses have held their position as one of the world’s most beloved flowers. This isn’t a new thing, either. It is believed that the cultivation of roses began 5,000 years ago in China!

June’s birth flower, everyone has come to know red roses as a symbol of love and romance. However, roses come in nearly every colour, each of which has its own meaning. White roses represent purity and innocence, while yellow roses symbolize friendship and joy.

Different coloured roses have different symbolism.

Of course, in the garden, we have our own way of classifying things. Most gardeners classify roses as one of the following:
- Heirloom roses: also known as old roses, heirloom roses refer to anything cultivated before 1867 (the arrival of the hybrid tea rose). These roses are lush, extremely fragrant, contain lots of petals, and are disease resistant.
- Modern hybrid roses: these roses are what you will find today, made from hybrids of tea roses. When you think of a rose, this is likely what you picture. Modern hybrids are very hardy, disease-resistant, and long-blooming. These roses tend not to have a strong scent.
- Wild roses: native to the northern hemisphere, you can easily find these roses in the wild. Extremely fragrant, they’re characterized by single blossoms of 5-petals. They bloom in early summer.
Most old and climbing roses bloom once a year in the spring. Some roses will have repeat blooms later in the season. Many modern roses, however, have been bred to bloom continuously throughout the summer.

While the famous saying encourages us to stop and smell the roses, not all roses smell. Some have a more old-fashioned smell while others are more modern. The best smell? Wild roses. The closer we stand by them, the better!

Not all roses smell, so consider this when choosing your varieties.

Rose Benefits

You may be surprised what this flower, known for its beauty, is capable of! Roses used to be grown more for medicinal and culinary uses (yes, they’re edible) rather than for their beauty.

In my opinion, roses are best used for skin care. Full of natural oils, roses help moisturize and even your skin tone. The anti-inflammatory properties reduce redness and puffiness around the face. As a natural astringent, it also has antibacterial properties, making it good for clearing out acne-causing bacteria.

The astringent qualities and antioxidants also help to support skin tissue. This makes rose a helpful sidekick in combatting fine lines and wrinkles! You can also fight age spots and discoloration with roses. Rosehip oil especially aids with this.

Speaking of rose hips, this is the rose plant’s seed pod. Just like the flower, the rose hip has plenty of benefits to offer. Rose hips have high levels of Vitamin C—even more than oranges.

They’re also rich in Vitamins A, B complex, C, E, and K and contain calcium, silica, iron, and phosphorus. You’ll find them packed with plenty of antioxidants, particularly bioflavonoids, which strengthen heart and blood vessels.

You’ll notice how much the wildlife enjoys feasting on rose hips. You can also feed them to chickens, horses, dogs, and wild birds for a treat!

Selecting a Rose Bush

When it comes to selecting a rose bush, you have two options: potted roses or bare-root roses. Potted roses are great for beginners. They’re available at every garden centre and can be found throughout the season. Potted roses are easy to plant and establish quickly.

Bare-root roses look like a bunch of dead sticks when they first show up. Don’t fear! These rose bushes are still dormant and haven’t leafed out yet. With bare-foot roses, you tend to have more selection and varieties to choose from. For those who want lots of roses, they’re also more economical. They just need a little more work before planting.

Both options will offer plenty of varieties and different sizes, colours, and types of blooms. Research your specific variety before planting.

Planting a Rose Bush

When you get your bare-root roses, plant them right away. They’re often available and shipped in early spring while they’re still dormant. Plant them by late spring to get the best results. As long as potted roses are well watered, they can be planted anytime. Early spring after the last frost or in fall, six weeks before the first frost, is best.

If you’re planting bare-root roses, soak them in a bucket of water for 8-12 hours before planting. Prune back the roses so that each cane (main branch) has 3-5 offshoots.

In the meantime, scout out your rose bush location. Roses like full sun and well-draining soil. Planting by a house, fence, or structure can protect roses in cold climates. Be careful not to crowd roses and ensure they have enough room to reach full maturity.

When planting, wear thick gloves to protect yourself from those nasty thorns. Dig a hole twice the size of the container or roots. Mix in compost. If planting from a container, “tickle” the roots before planting and filling the hole.

Give the plants a good soaking after planting, and you’re all done.

Wild rose bush.

How to Care for Roses

Now that you’ve got roses in the ground, here is everything you need to do regarding rose bush care to keep your roses blooming nonstop!

Soil

Roses may be thirsty plants, but they want soil that drains well. Ensure soil has adequate drainage but also that it can retain moisture long enough for the roots to enjoy it. Overall, they like loose and loamy soil. You can achieve this by adding soil amendments to your already planted roses.

In an ideal soil world, roses would prefer slightly acidic soil. 6.5 is just right. You can easily perform an at-home soil pH test if you don’t know the acidity of your soil.

Water

New rose bushes need frequent watering. When watering, be sure to soak all the roots. Less frequent, heavy waterings are better than less frequent shallow waterings. Remember to water at the base of the plant to avoid any water fungal diseases.

Those in dry summers may need to water their roses more often to protect them from the heat. A layer of mulch around the base of the rose can help to conserve water. It also helps to overwinter the rose bush in the fall.

Once established, the roses need very little supplemental watering.

Sunlight

If you can, place your rose bush somewhere that receives morning sun. This burst of sunshine in the morning will help to dry the morning dew on the leaves and prevent diseases.

Rose bushes need at least six hours of sun a day. Six to eight hours is the golden zone. Roses planted in the partial sun may weaken over time and produce fewer blooms.

In hot climates, you may want to place your rose bush somewhere sheltered from the hot afternoon sun.

Prune

Roses take extremely well to pruning. I’ve seen old and struggling rose bushes come back to life the next season after heavy pruning. If you do choose to heavily prune your rose bush, do so in the spring, just when the plant begins to wake up and leaf out. Don’t worry; the blooms come later in the season.

Don’t prune too hard in the autumn, as this can damage the rose and affect its ability to overwinter. Feel free to prune lightly during the summer, though never during intense heat. Don’t hesitate to clean up old or diseased branches.

Some roses also benefit from deadheading. Once a week, remove spent flowers by cutting them back to the nearest leaf. Be sure to leave some roses behind later in the season so you can enjoy some rosehips.

Other types of roses are self-cleaning and won’t develop rose hips. These blooms drop off automatically.

When pruning, make sure to sterilize your pruners before cutting.

Pests and Diseases

While most roses are bred to be disease-resistant, that doesn’t mean they’re entirely in the clear. Roses are often affected by powdery mildew. This fungal disease appears as a light grey or white cast on the leaves. It thrives in warmth and humidity.

Roses can also be affected by black spot, a fungal disease with black or brown spots on top of the leaves. You may also see botrytis blight, which is a grey fungus that causes the blooms to drop or turn brown.

The best way to avoid disease?
1. Remove dead leaves and branches.
2. Space out your roses for proper air circulation.
3. Avoid getting the leaves wet by watering the rose at the base.
Rose bushes may also be infested by aphids, Japanese beetles, and spider mites. Deer also enjoy munching on the scrumptious buds, so try planting them in a deer-safe area whenever possible or use a strong companion herb such as lavender to hide the smell.

Things to Do With Roses

Besides enjoying these beauties in your garden, here is what you can do with the blooms.

Make Rose Water

If you want to reap the glorious benefits of roses for your skin, it all starts with rose water. Not only can you drink it, but you can use it as a toner, a makeup remover, in the bath, as an air freshener, in baked goods, and so much more.

Use dried rose petals to make rose water.

Rose Face Toner

Toner is such an important part of a skincare routine, and it often gets skipped. Helping to balance the pH of your skin, this rose toner gives you an extra boost after washing your face.

I make my toner out of rose water and witch hazel.

Beeswax Massage Balm With Rose

There’s no denying the romantic and sweet scent of rose. Use it to your advantage and also apply the benefits of rose to the skin with a batch of this beeswax massage balm with rose.

Rose Petal Bath Bombs

Keeping up with the love and romance, you can use rose petals to add some ambience to the bath. These rose petal bath bombs are also infused with rose essential oil for some extra aromatherapy.

Rose petals retain their colour very nicely when dried.

Rose Face Cream

One of my go-to lotion recipes, this rose face cream is nice and light on the skin. It hydrates my dry, sensitive skin without causing any clogging. I may have to give this face cream credit for my youthful appearance!

Roses and aloe vera are a powerful combo!

Rose and Lavender Deodorant Spray

Put the scent of rose to the test with this natural rose deodorant spray. I’m highly against putting anything I can’t pronounce on my skin, even when it comes to the armpit! Honestly, don’t underestimate the confidence of having rose-scented armpits.

Roses and lavender make a wonderful scent combination.

Rose Hip Tea

One of the best ways to harness all the goodness from rose hips is by brewing tea. Harvest them fresh from your garden and get a steamy cup moments later.

Get a boost of Vitamin C with rosehip tea.

Frequently Asked Questions About Rose Bushes

What is the best month to plant roses?

Roses should ideally be planted in the spring after the last frost or in the fall six weeks before the first frost.

If planting bare-root roses, you will want to plant them as soon as you get them (after soaking). With potted roses, you have a little more time to get them in the ground as long as they stay hydrated.

Do roses like sun or shade?

Roses are sun-loving flowers. They prefer 6-8 hours of sunlight a day. This will get you more blooms and a healthier, stronger plant. If you live in a hot climate, protect the roses from the hot afternoon sun in their location.

How do I pick roses?

Roses are one of the most popular cut flowers around. Roses are best picked immediately after the bud stage when the flowers are just beginning to open. Harvest roses in the morning after the dew has dried so they’re hydrated and not under any heat stress.

Before getting started, wear gloves to protect yourself from the thorns. With sterilized pruners, cut the rose at a node (where the leaf meets the stem).

Before placing them in a vase, recut the ends to eliminate any air bubbles. Cut at an angle. Remove any leaves that would go under any water, as this leads to bacteria. If you want, you can also remove the thorns using a rose stripper or by cutting the thorns with a pruner. Change the vase water every other day.

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Stephanie Rose

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July 2, 2024