There are many reasons to visit South Africa, but for anyone whose heart beats faster for flowers, there is this hint: Take a deep breath, exhale slowly, and book a trip any time from August through September, when the summer-dry expanses of the West Coast region and its hinterland erupt in spring’s wildflowers after soaking winter rains.
Because of the staggering diversity of floral displays spread across the country’s Western and Northern Cape provinces, the choices of destinations can be overwhelming. The tiny town of Darling in the Western Cape, just an hour’s drive north of Cape Town, is at once accessible, hospitable, and bursting with a variety botanical hotspots. Waylands Wildflower Reserve is just one of them.
Above: Wild arum lilies—Zantedeschia aethiopica— at Waylands Wildflower Reserve, near Darling.
Waylands Wildflower Reserve, about three miles southeast of Darling, is one of several local reserves open to visitors during peak wildflower season. Last September I visited with my evolutionary-biologist friend, Jacqueline Bishop, who loves flowers as much as I do, but who knows more about them as well as the creatures with which they co-exist. (It’s like walking with Google, except more fun.) Our destination that day was the town itself, and the Darling Wildflower Show, held annually over the third weekend of September. But at Waylands we became side-tracked, in the best possible way.
Above: A flock of Lachenalias. Above: Heliophila africana tilting on slender stems. Above: Shaggy monkey beetles are important pollinators of spring’s ephemeral wildflowers. Above: Geissorhiza radians.
Created in 1922 by Frederick Duckitt, Waylands is one of the oldest wildflower reserves in South Africa. This pocket of critically endangered Renosterveld remains on land farmed by the Duckitt family since 1865. (Closer to town vast greenhouses accommodate their orchid business, which exports exotic orchids to Europe and the East Coast of the US. It is open to the public during this weekend, and we were sustained there by some very good pancakes, filled with cinnamon and sugar and served with lemon.)
Above: Common butterfly lily—Wachendorfia paniculata—thrives after fire.
Over 300 species of wildflowers have been recorded at Waylands, whose farming methods help conserve one of the most threatened habitats in the Cape Floristic Region (which is smallest of the world’s six plant kingdoms, but the mightiest in terms of diversity). Grassfed cattle and sheep are allowed to graze here after the flowers have set seed, from November—early summer—to the end of April before the wet, Mediterranean winter sets in. This ancient seasonal grazing strategy, predating colonial history, allows these hoofed animals to actively spread seed, and to turn bulbs. And every four to seven years, intentional fires are set in autumn, ahead of rain, to help regenerate plants that thrive after fire.
There are many reasons to visit South Africa, but for anyone whose heart beats faster for flowers, there is this hint: Take a deep breath, exhale slowly, and book a trip any time from late August through September, when the summer-dry expanses of the West Coast region and its hinterland erupt in spring’s wildflowers after soaking winter rains.
Because of the staggering diversity of floral displays spread across the country’s Western and Northern Cape provinces, the choices of destinations can be overwhelming. The tiny town of Darling in the Western Cape, just an hour’s drive north of Cape Town, is at once accessible, hospitable, and bursting with a variety botanical hotspots. Waylands Wildflower Reserve is just one of them.
Above: Wild arum lilies—Zantedeschia aethiopica— at Waylands Wildflower Reserve, near Darling.
Waylands Wildflower Reserve, about three miles southeast of Darling, is one of several local reserves open to visitors during peak wildflower season. Last September I visited with my evolutionary-biologist friend, Jacqueline Bishop, who loves flowers as much as I do, but who knows more about them as well as the creatures with which they co-exist. (It’s like walking with Google, except more fun.) Our destination that day was the town itself, and the Darling Wildflower Show, held annually over the third weekend of September. But at Waylands we became side-tracked, in the best possible way.
Above: A flock of Lachenalias. Above: Heliophila africana tilting on slender stems. Above: Shaggy monkey beetles are important pollinators of spring’s ephemeral wildflowers. Above: Geissorhiza radians.
Created in 1922 by Frederick Duckitt, Waylands is one of the oldest wildflower reserves in South Africa. This pocket of critically endangered Renosterveld remains on land farmed by the Duckitt family since 1865. (Closer to town vast greenhouses accommodate their orchid business, which exports exotic orchids globally. It is open to the public during this weekend, and we were sustained there by some very good pannekoek, crêpe-like pancakes filled with cinnamon and sugar and served with lemon.)
Above: Common butterfly lily—Wachendorfia paniculata—thrives after fire.
Over 300 species of wildflowers have been recorded at Waylands, whose farming methods help conserve one of the most threatened habitats in the Cape Floristic Region (which is smallest of the world’s six plant kingdoms, but the mightiest in terms of diversity). Grassfed cattle and sheep are allowed to graze here after the flowers have set seed, from November—early summer—to the end of April before the wet, Mediterranean winter sets in. This ancient seasonal grazing strategy, predating colonial history, allows these hoofed animals to actively spread seed, and to turn bulbs. And every four to seven years, intentional fires are set in autumn, ahead of rain, to help regenerate plants that thrive after fire.
If you are ready for a welcome splash of colour amidst the dreariness of winter, look no further than amaryllis flowers. These cheerful, bold-hued plants are the perfect thing to grow indoors this winter.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Houseplants of any kind are a welcome sight in the winter. They add some life to the indoors and to the long, cold season. Indoor plants that flower are one of the best ways to add some cheer during a drab winter due to their bright colours and fragrance.
Amaryllis flowers are big, beautiful, and certainly work as a stunning centerpiece. In addition to their bright flowers, the dark and narrow leaves and light thick stems make a wonderful contrast of colours. The amaryllis blooms in the middle of the coldest season, feeling like a little slice of springtime when you need it most—in the dead of winter.
Sponsored Content: This article on forcing spring bulbs is proudly sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We partnered on this article to help remind you that fall is the best time of year to get your amaryllis bulbs. There are a ton of great varieties available at online retailers and in garden centers, so you certainly will have plenty of options in your area. The most beautiful and unique varieties sell out early, so be sure to get your perfect amaryllis early this fall!
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
The naming of amaryllis can get a little complicated. The botanical name for amaryllis is Hippeastrum, which has several different species. Originally from South Africa, is has around 4 to 6 large flowers on a hollow stem. It is known throughout the world by its common name, ‘amaryllis’.
However, there is also another bulbous plant, Amaryllis belladonna, from South Africa which has 6 to 12 smaller sized flowers on a solid stem. Unlike the Hippeastrum, it is the only species in the genus, Amaryllis. While they have a different background, both species are commonly referred to as “amaryllis”. If you are a plant nerd like me, you will find more details on this and all sorts of interesting amaryllis tidbits on Flowerbulb.eu.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
How to Grow Amaryllis Indoors
To grow amaryllis successfully indoors, follow these steps.
If you haven’t forced bulbs before, don’t fret. Amaryllis bulbs are frequently grown indoors during the winter and it is rather simple to do.
It is absolutely worth it to have a showy display of gorgeous blooms greeting you on an otherwise dreary day. Better yet, you can use the same bulb again and again for beautiful flowers year after year. I’ll show you how to force the Amaryllis bulbs below, but you can learn about forcing other bulbs here.
Photo of Amaryllis ‘Fairytale” courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Before You Begin Planting
The first step is to choose the right bulb for your home. In addition to the Netherlands, most bulbs you purchase still come from their place of origin: South Africa. There are many different types of amaryllis that come in different colors, fragrances, and flower types (check out Amaryllis exotica, Ferrari red, and papilio butterfly).
If you want really big flowers, choose the biggest bulbs you can find—with amaryllis, the size of the bulb is indicative of the size of blooms it will produce. It also may produce more flowers on its stems.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
One bulb will typically grow two stems and there can be anywhere from two to five flowers per stem.
A stem measures 16 to 24 inches, so they are certainly a tall grower!
For most varieties, the amaryllis flower measures 10 inches in diameter. Those classified as miniature varieties will have flowers that are about 5 inches across. Still a decent-sized flower!
The second flower stem will develop later than the first, meaning it will bloom later. The blooms will all not open at the same time, so you will have a fairly long flowering period.
If you need to store your bulbs before you plant them, keep them somewhere dark and cool (40-50 degrees Fahrenheit). A fridge is a great place to store them, just be sure not to keep them in there with apples because apples produce ethylene gasses which will sterilize the bulbs and prevent them from blooming.
When Should I Plant Amaryllis?
You can plant an amaryllis anytime between October and April, and it will bloom six to ten weeks later.
Consider this timing if you would like your amaryllis to bloom for a special occasion or holiday—if you count six to ten weeks back from your ideal blooming time, that is when you should plant.
Six to ten weeks is the general range for all amaryllis, but individual varieties often have a more specific time period from planting to blooming. Check the instructions that come with the bulbs for this information.
If you want to have lots of amaryllis blooming throughout the winter, simply plant every two weeks starting in October or later. This will keep a constant pop of colour in your home to last you until springtime.
The Best Container for Amaryllis
Amaryllis works well in a variety of containers. The main thing that you have to remember when picking a container is that it must have enough weight to hold up a fairly heavy stem and large flowers without tipping over. I especially like to use glass vases and Mason jars, but have also been happy with decorative ceramic pots as amaryllis containers. Like any container, make sure it has proper drainage at the bottom of the pot!
As for the size of the container, it depends on how many bulbs you would like to place. They only need about an inch of space surrounding the bulb. I would recommend a 6 inch in diameter pot for one bulb or a 10 to 12 inch pot for three bulbs together. Because of their size, one amaryllis bulb per pot is typical for indoor use.
Photo of Amaryllis ‘La Paz’ courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Using a compost-rich soil mix, plant the bulb into your chosen container, being careful not to damage any roots. Amaryllis bulbs should have fairly long roots upon purchase and you are going to want to keep those intact while planting.
Cover the bulb in soil halfway to 3/4 of the way up to its neck and pack the soil down gently.
At first, only water when the top inch of the soil feels dry.
Once a stem begins to grow you should start watering more frequently.
Amaryllis are content being at room temperature, but still like to be in a lighted location. Keep the amaryllis in a warm, bright spot with lots of direct sunlight.
Sit back and watch it bloom!
Re-Growing a Bulb
You can re-grow your amaryllis year after year. Remove old flowers from the plant as they fade and when the leaves of the amaryllis turn yellow, it is time to cut the whole plant down to about two inches tall. Then, remove the entire plant—bulb and stem—from the potting mix. Gently clean off the bulb and store it until it is time to plant it again for next winter.
Photo of Amaryllis ‘Dancing Queen’ courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Gardeners, rejoice! If you’re ready for spring, start the season early by forcing bulbs to grow indoors. Not only will you get to bring some beauty into your home, but you’ll be a step ahead when it comes to your spring garden, too. Here’s everything you need to know about growing bulbs indoors.
Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Do you ever find yourself wishing that spring could come earlier? Well, my friend, you can bring a bit of spring indoors this fall and winter with blooming spring bulbs! With a few simple techniques, you can force bulbs to grow early and create a spring garden right in your own home well before they are ready to flower outdoors.
You can make gorgeous, varied arrangements to display on your dining table or other surfaces, and you’ll be feeling sunnier in no time. Grab some bulbs and get ready to welcome spring!
This post will cover…
Bulbs can make for wonderful gifts, alongside growing instructions.
Sponsored Content: This article on forcing spring bulbs is proudly sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We partnered on this article to help remind you that fall is the best time of year to buy spring bulbs. There are a ton of great bulbs available at online retailers and in garden centres, so you certainly will have plenty of options in your area. Get your bulbs now so you can chill them in time for an early spring indoors when you need the cheery blooms the most!
Forcing Bulbs for Spring
I’m rather lucky living in the Pacific Northwest, where spring arrives earlier for me compared to other northern counterparts. Oftentimes, I am posting my spring bulbs on social media, and my friends are commenting that they’re still deep in snow!
Snow in May and June is a reality for some, making the true gardening season a few short months. However, you can still enjoy the wonders of spring even if it doesn’t feel like the season outdoors. Forcing spring bulbs is my favourite way to add some much-needed colour inside while you sit and wait to garden outside.
Tulipa Bright Sight, Orange Princess, Queensland, and Varinas, courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
The Best Bulbs to Grow Indoors
While you could theoretically use most bulbs indoors, some will be more challenging than others. For successful and easy flowers, it’s important to pick bulbs that take well to forcing. These ones are easy to force indoors and produce gorgeous spring flowers that will brighten up your home.
I also like to grow bulbs indoors that aren’t hardy in my area. Some bulbs will only be hardy in warmer zones and won’t naturalize for the following year. Growing bulbs indoors allows you to still experience these more tender bulbs, even if you live in a colder area.
Grow some specialty varieties to really make your flowers shine indoors. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Choose Your Container
Bulbs can be forced in a wide variety of containers, so pick something decorative that will complement the flowers that you’ve chosen. Shallow dishes and pots make good containers for many bulbs, as do simple Mason jars.
You can find containers specifically made for bulb forcing, too—they have a wide dish at the top that narrows before widening out below again into a vase shape, so that the bulb will sit in the top above the water in the vase part.
You can easily use some of your outdoor pots for your indoor bulbs. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Prepare Your Bulbs
Forcing bulbs and other plants is a way of tricking them into thinking it’s time to flower earlier than they naturally would. In order to do this, you have to put the bulbs through a false “winter.”
Spring bulbs naturally go through a period of dormancy over winter, and in the spring, when the soil is warmed enough by the sun, the bulb knows that it is time to come up and bloom. What we’re doing is recreating this effect indoors and on our own time, so that we can have beautiful spring flowers blooming early.
To do this, you need to mimic the bulb’s natural life cycle by chilling it at 35-45 degrees Fahrenheit (or 2-7 degrees Celsius) for about 8-15 weeks. This creates an artificial winter.
You can chill bulbs in a cool, dark spot like a root cellar or unheated garage.
You can also put the bulbs in a brown paper bag in the refrigerator as long as you give them their own drawer away from fruits and vegetables that release ethylene gas.
If you don’t have the time to do this, you can buy bulbs that have already been chilled for you.
Muscari flowers.
Planting Bulbs Indoors
Once the bulbs have gone through their cold period, you can plant them indoors, and the transition from cold to warm will signal to them that it is time to grow and bloom.
If you are using a Mason jar or other deep vessel, fill the container up with small pebbles or marbles. Nestle the bulb into the pebbles or marbles with the pointy end facing up. About half of the bulb should be buried while the top half remains exposed. Add enough water to the container so that the bottom quarter of the bulb is submerged, but the rest of the bulb is above the water.
Make sure not to fully submerge the bulb in water so it doesn’t rot.
If you are using a shallow dish or pot, add a few pebbles to the bottom for drainage and add potting soil to the container. Plant the bulbs in the soil (again, pointy sides up) and add a little more soil on top so that they are just covered. Water thoroughly. Check the soil often and keep it moist with frequent watering.
Keep your soil moist, but make sure it’s not soggy. Drainage is important!
Sometimes you don’t even need soil to grow your bulbs. All you need is a bulb, water, and the right vase. A forcing vase is one that has a narrow top and a wide bottom. This allows the bulb to be only partly submerged in water.
If you have a forcing vase, simply fill the bottom part with water and rest the bulb inside the wide dish at the top. If you haven’t chilled your bulbs yet, place your vase in a dark, cool place and wait. After a few weeks, the roots will grow down into the water. When the flower begins to appear, bring it out for display. If your vase is clear, you even get to watch the roots grow in addition to seeing the beautiful flower bloom.
Hyacinths smell wonderful, making them a true treat indoors. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Decorate!
Growing bulbs indoors is all about bringing some colour and beauty to your home. Beyond the flower variety and colour, you can add a lot of elements to stylize your indoor bulb.
Give your arrangements a little something extra by adding reindeer moss, polished pebbles, or flat glass marbles around the base of the plants, and consider including some delicate deciduous branches for added structure. If you are forcing your bulbs in soil and not just water, you can plant a few pretty annuals, such as violas or primulas, in the same container for some variety.
You can also play around to make your bulbs and container match the season. Opt for pastel hues and cheery containers to create an Easter themed piece. As long as you time it right, you can have bulbs indoors year-round.
Force bulbs indoors any time of year. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Plant Again
After the bulbs have finished flowering and you have enjoyed your indoor display to the fullest, you can plant the bulbs out in the garden and watch them flower again for years to come. If they are hardy in your zone, you can plant them in the ground and wait for them to sping up next winter. Alternatively, you can also store them to grow them indoors again.
To do this, remove old flowers and leaves as they slowly fade away. Once the plant is finished flowering and the foliage has turned yellow, cut the stems to two inches above the bulb. Remove the bulb from the soil and gently clean off any dirt. Store in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to use it again next winter.
Tulipa Dynasty and Hyacinthus China Pink, courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
More Spring Flower Fun!
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Why settle for a stuffy dining room when you can host Friendsgiving under the open sky? This year, I took to the garden, complete with cozy vibes, fall bulbs, and a few picture-worthy Friendsgiving ideas. Whether you’ve got a big backyard or a small patio, here’s how to turn your outdoor space into a magical fall gathering.
In every garden space I’ve had the pleasure of calling home, I always prioritize an area for entertaining. Some of my favourite memories are those long, lazy afternoons and twinkle-lit evenings spent outside, surrounded by greenery, laughter, and the people I love.
When I first moved into this house, I had a very specific dream: a big table right in the middle of the lawn, set for an outdoor dinner for 12. I don’t have a dining room in the house so the big dinners move outside. And garden-side entertaining is magical.
Fast-forward to now. The deck is done, the veggie garden is thriving, and Lola (my stylish, vintage trailer sidekick!) is tucked into her corner like she was always meant to be there. It finally felt like the perfect time to throw a little garden gathering.
Friendsgiving with my chosen family seemed like the perfect opportunity to get everyone together and enjoy the abundance and beauty of the fall garden.
This year, I wanted to switch things up and reflect not just on what we’re thankful for now, but also on the gifts we can give our future selves. I planned a little magic for my garden table, and perhaps it will inspire you to create your own unforgettable evening with these garden-themed Friendsgiving ideas.
This post will cover…
Having a gift/activity for your guests is a great way to add to the event.
Sponsored: This post is sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu, who graciously provided the bulbs we used to write our intentions and gift to our future selves. Flowerbulb.eu aims to educate those on the beauty and joy of flower bulbs. Go to Flowerbulb.eu for inspiration and education!
Friendsgiving Décor in the Garden
When I designed the garden, I always planned that the lawn would become an outdoor dining area for the bigger events. I combined three folding beer garden tables to make one square table big enough for 12, with benches around so 4 people could sit on each side.
The invites were clear that it would be an outdoor dining event and to dress accordingly. And, of course, that’s part of the fun! Everyone dressed stylishly warm in wool and velvet fabrics, brightened by the rich colours of fall. I also provided blankets for everyone on the bench seating to ensure the guests did not get chilly.
Even in the summer, blankets are appreciated for outdoor hosting.
Lights are the number one way to set ambience. Outdoor string lights with Edison bulbs are strung from the deck to the large hazelnut tree, so they light up the table and Lola. The table lighting was simple as well: an array of candles to set the mood.
Lola, my vintage trailer, was a great backdrop.
To set the table, I layered tablecloths. Each setting had different vintage, colourful plates. All together, it perfectly matched the vibrancy and eclectic nature of the garden.
Layering mismatched patterned tablecloths is a beautiful way to create depth and texture.
On the table, I set out flowers freshly harvested from my cutting garden, In this season it is filled with zinnias and sunflowers, but the garden gives flowers from early spring in succession from the bulbs I planted: tulips first, then ranunculus. Next summer, I plan to include dahlias for a huge selection of flowers through to the fall.
There are usually some long-lasting flowers you can trim from your garden in the fall, like these zinnia.
I filled in the center of the table with other items harvested from my garden: acorn squash, rosemary sprigs, and dried hydrangeas. Truly celebrating the abundance that can come from the garden.
Finally, I added pretty 1-litre Mason jars filled with tulip bulbs. These make for cute and useful gifts that each guest can take home. These also became an activity later in the night.
A Gift for Your Future Self
At all my dinners, I like to host an activity to bring everyone together and share my gratitude for friendship. For Friendsgiving this year, my theme was “A Gift to Your Future Self.” When we finished the main course, I thanked everyone for being part of my family and then explained the reason there were jars of tulip bulbs on the table.
This gift was how we could collectively explore appreciation for a period of winter’s rest and acknowledgement of our future selves. Giving fall planting flower bulbs is the example.
I used fabric rather than the metal snap lids to allow air flow for the bulbs.
If you plant fall bulbs now, such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, and other showstoppers, they bloom in the early days of spring. Exactly when you need a reminder that winter does, in fact, end in a new season, spring. This is a very personal concept for me, and one that I experienced in full colour this past year.
When I first moved into the house, it was fall. I planted a lawn full of fall bulbs that brought me so much joy in the following spring when I didn’t have any other plants or flowers yet. Since I hadn’t been able to do any garden work yet, having those bulbs come up in the spring was a really lovely gift and kick-started my year of gardening ahead.
I loved it so much, I planted more tulip bulbs last fall so I could have even more flowers. I harvested so many tulips to use as bouquets, thanking past me for this abundance and feeling such joy that I gave this small gift to myself.
At Friendsgiving, I wanted to pass on this abundance and joyful feeling so that my loved ones could nourish themselves over winter.
Ensure your guests know how to plant and use the bulbs by cutting up the planting instructions from the package and including them in the jars.
Every couple or family got a jar of tulip bulbs alongside some pieces of paper. I encouraged everyone to write an intention and what they hoped spring would bring them. What gift would you love to receive in the spring that you’re nourishing now?
Once written down, we folded the pieces of paper and put them in the jar. When they bring the bulbs home, they can plant the paper with the bulbs. After a little winter rest, the flowers will grow in the spring alongside your intentions. And you’ll remember the gift you had given yourself.
Friendsgiving Foodie Feast
In the center of my vegetable garden beds is the Gardener’s Table. Like a Chef’s table, it is set for just two people to enjoy an intimate meal.
It’s framed with a U-shaped vegetable garden and a bean arch. I removed the two chairs for this party and tossed a tablecloth over top of the table to serve wine and a cranberry-themed cheeseboard. After dinner, I set dessert on that table as well. It kept everyone moving around the garden for the different courses.
The cheeseboard featured cranberry chevre, brie, olive tapenade, burrata with cranberry balsamic, cranberry hazelnut crackers, and dried dates.
For the main course, I cooked a turkey dinner. My friend, who happens to be an amazing chef, also cooked Chinese dumplings for everyone, which we enjoyed as a second course.
Keep the table clear and the food warm by serving the food inside the house.
For dessert, I served hyper-realistic fall-themed cakes that looked like pumpkins, green apples, acorns, and mushrooms. They were absolutely stunning but 100% cake, so no worries about the mushroom being poisonous (it was pistachio raspberry-flavoured cake and mousse. Yum!). I got the cakes from a local bakery, making things simple for me and enjoyable for my guests.
What you serve at your Friendsgiving is personal and doesn’t have the follow the Thanksgiving norms. Collaborate to lessen the stress of doing it all yourself, and you can enjoy what your friends love to cook as well.
The desserts featured realistic-looking apples, pumpkins, mushrooms, and acorns.
The Joy of a Thanksgiving Garden Party
Having friends over for any kind of celebration is a way to share your life with them. This Thanksgiving garden party was a way to share something meaningful to me: planting fall bulbs and the abundance they can provide next spring. I knew how much joy it gave me, and I wanted to pass that feeling and intention to the people who are important to me.
Bringing them together, cooking them dinner, and gifting them these bulbs also allowed me to feel the abundance of their friendship. It is my hope that by passing on the gift of tulip bulbs to them, they’ll be reminded that they’re special to me.
And better yet, inspire the intentions and dreams they’ve made this fall to come true next spring.
I hope you found some inspiration for garden-themed Friendsgiving décor, and most importantly, feel inspired to set your own intentions this fall. Be sure to check out Flowerbulb.eu for more bulb inspiration and tips!
More Ways to Celebrate the Season
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
You get a tulip, you get a hyacinth, you get a crocus! Yes, folks, fall bulb planting season is upon us. It’s singlehandedly one of the best things you can do this time of year for your future self. Plant fall bulbs now, and they’ll be one of the first blooms to welcome you next spring.
While others may be mourning the loss of summer, I’m over here buzzing about it being fall bulb season. Come September, the displays are full of tons of brilliant bulbs you can plant now for the spring.
One minute I’m shopping for garlic, the next thing you know, I’m leaving with $100 worth of flower bulbs to plant that weekend.
Fall bulbs and spring flowering bulbs are the same thing. One refers to when you plant it, and the other to when they flower.
It can be hard to think about next season’s garden when you’re still enjoying the last of this year’s harvest and blooms, but just a little work now will bring you so much joy next winter.
I’ve got plenty to say about fall bulbs, so let me dive in with all my planting tips. And make sure you read to the end for a can’t miss fall bulb giveaway!
Sponsored Content: A huge thank you to Flowerbulb.eu for sponsoring this post and providing many beautiful photos. Flowerbulb.eu is an invaluable resource for planting fall bulbs and has information on all kinds of unique bulbs you can grow for this spring. Be sure to check them out for more information and tips on growing everything bulbs.
Fall bulbs can create an epic display in the spring. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
What is a Flower Bulb?
We refer to most as “bulbs,” but some are also corms and tubers. For instance, crocus grow from corms while summer favourites like dahlias and begonias grow from tubers. Their appearance varies slightly, but for the sake of the article, I’ll refer to everything as a bulb! The care is fairly similar for each.
Bulbs are special in that they hold all the food the flower needs to thrive. If you’ve ever seen a package with bulbs already sprouting, that’s why,
Some bulbs are designed for annual planting, others for perennial or naturalizing. Annuals often are bred to be very showy, either in size or colour. Because of how much work it takes for the bulb to produce such a flower, it often won’t bloom again.
Perennials are bred for multiple-year flowering. They can remain in the ground all year round, becoming part of your garden bed plantings.
Naturalized bulbs are meant to multiply and spread. They can work in mass on their own or be part of a bed with other plants. They also work wonderfully in lawns.
Tulip bulbs are a “true bulb”
When Should I Plant Fall Bulbs?
When you should plant fall bulbs will vary greatly depending on where you live. They must be planted in the fall and before the first hard frost. This gives the bulb a chance to develop some root systems and settle in before winter.
This can be anywhere from September to December, depending on your climate. When in doubt, the package will tell you everything you need to know about when and how to plant the particular bulb.
Ideally, you want to plant them shortly after bringing them home. Most online retailers won’t ship the bulbs to you until they’re ready to plant in your hardiness zone. In the store, they’ll have them a little earlier. You can store them for a little while if necessary, keeping the bulbs between 10°-15°C.
For individual plantings, I use an auger drill attachment to help speed things up.
How to Plant Fall Bulbs
Again, the instructions will vary depending on the bulb you’re growing. Each bulb should be planted at different depths, and the sun and water conditions may vary slightly. My instructions below are a good rule of thumb for all bulbs, corms, and tubers.
Good drainage is a universal rule to follow. Bulbs will rot if sitting in any kind of water, so avoid any wet sections in your garden.
Most bulbs thrive in full or partial sun. Since these bulbs bloom in spring, they might enjoy more sunlight than you may think because the trees and shrubs haven’t leafed out yet.
When planting, you can plant them individually or in mass by digging trenches. Typically, smaller plants, like crocus, do well in mass while larger bulbs, such as alliums, work best with individual plantings. I like to work in compost to help improve drainage.
Generally, larger bulbs (2+ inches across) should be planted 6-8 inches deep, and smaller bulbs (1 inch or less) are planted 3-4 inches deep. Depth can change depending on your climate. For our mild winters, that depth is plenty in my garden. It’s best to refer to the package for the exact planting range. Warmer climates can handle the shallowest depth, where colder climates will want to use the maximum of the range.
Plant the bulbs with the pointy side facing up. Place, don’t push the bulb in. Cover with soil and then water generously if the soil isn’t already wet or you’re planting in dry conditions. Add a layer of mulch to help insulate the soil and stop it from drying out.
Bulbs should be planted “pointy” side up. These bulbs need to be set correctly before covering with soil.
Caring for Fall Bulbs
Once they’ve been planted, there’s very little work that needs to go into caring for your fall bulbs. They’ll be fine in the winter, sheltered under the cover of snow until they’re ready to emerge in the spring.
Many bulbs will actually naturalize or be perennials in the garden, returning year after year to bring you spring joy. Some bulbs, such as tulips and hyacinths, will bloom abundantly in their first couple of years and slowly taper off.
In the spring, you can snip faded flowers, but it’s important you leave the foliage until it turns completely yellow. The bulbs need time to charge and gather nutrients through the foliage to return the following year.
Crocus blooming amongst sedum.
Planting Bulbs in Pots
Yes, fall bulbs can also be planted in pots! This is a great option for those with a small space or who want to decorate their patio or balcony. I make a container every fall for my front door, and it’s always such a delight come springtime.
For successful bulb containers, you have to make sure the pot is deep enough and has good drainage. Use fresh soil when planting.
You can see exactly how I layer my bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, and crocus. The top layer will bloom first while the ones below make their way up the soil.
In containers, you can pack the bulbs closer than you would in a garden bed. I also like to top mine off with fall annuals, so it looks good in the fall while the bulbs are resting.
You may need to water your containers periodically, especially if they’re under protection from the outside.
Here’s a sample of combining bulbs in containers. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Fall Bulb Grow Guides
I’ve written extensively about fall bulbs, including these dedicated guides for some of the most popular bulbs. Check them out for specific growing tips and tricks!
Tulips
Did you know that some tulips are perennials while others are annuals? You want to ensure you know which ones you’re buying to curb your expectations. I recently had the joy of planting over 250 tulip bulbs to grow as cutting flowers. Read these tips for growing tulips for a cutting garden.
Due to their popularity, there is an incredible variety of shapes and colours for tulip flowers.
Daffodils
Confession: I used to dislike daffodils. The bright yellow heads were always a little too much for me. But then I learned about the sheer number of daffodil varieties, and how versatile they can be.
Narcissus ‘Kiwi-Sunset.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Alliums
Alliums have long been one of my spring favourites, particularly the giant balls known as Globmaster alliums. As part of the onion family, you can truly grow some wacky and wonderful alliums.
A. giganteum ‘Globemaster.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Crocus
The true herald of spring is not the robin, but the crocus flowers. I often see these flowers blooming even when there is snow or frost still on the ground. They’re great for mass plantings in garden beds and are a go-to for bulb lawns and naturalizing.
Everyone knows tulips and daffodils, but not everyone is as familiar with other fun fall bulbs, such as the checkered lily or Dutch iris. Here are 12 extraordinary fall bulbs to consider planting.
Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris). Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Naturalizing Bulbs
Naturalizing is a gardener’s dream. This is when the bulbs produce more bulbs on their own, naturally multiplying their numbers each subsequent year. I’ve done tons of work naturalizing bulbs in my front lawn. You can find all mytips for naturalizing garden beds and lawns here!
A mix of crocus and short tulips for naturalizing. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Fall Bulb FAQ
Can I plant flower bulbs among trees, shrubs, and perennials?
Yes, and it’s a great way to bring some beauty before the perennials leaf out and everything else isn’t blooming yet. It can be difficult to plant in these areas as the soil is hard and there are root systems to navigate. You’re more likely to individually plant them. An auger drill attachment can help, though you should make the hole as small as possible.
Squirrels and other small mammals are attracted to the fresh soil after you’ve planted a bulb. You want to try to cover up any indication of fresh soil. Mulch can help hide this.
You also want to remove anything that may be attracting them to the area, such as garbage, compost, or bird feeders.
If you’re really concerned, you can place a hard wire over the top of the bulbs.
Personally, I plant with the knowledge that some of my bulbs may be dug up. It seems only fair they get a few bulbs too!
Is it better to plant flower bulbs earlier or later in the fall?
Earlier is usually better, but it depends on your climate. The planting should be done before the hard frost to allow the bulb to establish a root system. However, if you’re experiencing a warm fall, you may want to wait later to avoid hot conditions.
Should I fertilize flower bulbs?
I don’t fertilize much in my garden, as I work hard to feed my soil by adding layers of compost and leaf mulch every year. Only if you have poor soil conditions, you may want to fertilize. This is especially helpful if you have perennial bulbs and want them to bloom prolifically the following year. Fertilize after the bulbs have finished flowering in the spring.
Fall Bulb Giveaway!
I’m thrilled to partner with Flowerbulb.eu to give $100 worth of fall bulbs to one lucky Garden Therapy reader.
To enter, leave a comment on this post letting me know what fall bulbs you want to plant in your garden this year.
Contest is open to U.S. residents only and runs until October 3, 11:59 PM. The winner will be chosen using a random number generator. Good luck!!
That rounds up all of my fall bulb tips and guides! If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below or check out Flowerbulb.eu for more helpful information about planting bulbs.
More Fall Bulb Planting Tips
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
To get those beautiful, spring flowers, you have to put in a little bit of work now. Plan ahead and plant these hardy fall bulbs before the ground freezes. They’ll cozy up for the winter and emerge at the first sign of spring!
I often find myself wandering around my garden in spring, immensely enjoying the brightly coloured blooms popping up everywhere, even through snow-covered, frosty ground. It’s during those times that I reap the benefit of taking the time the previous year to plant hardy fall bulbs that chill out for the winter and delight in the spring.
Bulbs are identified by the season they are planted, not that in which they grow, so with hardy fall bulbs, it is important to think ahead to what the garden will look like in future seasons and find the right space, colour, height and number to create the design you desire.
These are some true hardy bulbs, meant to be planted in the fall to bloom in the spring. They don’t mind the cold and will brighten things up after a long winter.
You can find bulbs at garden centres or hardware stores, as well as online.
USDA zones: 3-8
The butterfly of flowers, the tulip is decorative and delicate, with as much variety in appearance as the gardeners who plant them. Small or tall, early or late blooming, ruffled or smooth, multicoloured or striped, the tulip is the perfect showpiece for almost any garden.
Tulips can be perennials or annuals. Make sure you know which you’re buying!
Crocuses
USDA zones: 3-9
One of the first fall bulbs braving the frozen soil, the crocus offers a taste of what’s to come while still covered in winter’s frost. Generally, crocuses range from purple and yellow, but blues, whites, and oranges can also be found.
The shorties are best in the front of flower beds, but I absolutely love crocuses livening up the ground under a deciduous (as they bloom before the leaves grow), or wildly dotted through a green lawn.
Crocus flowers are one of the first to emerge while it’s still frosty.
Narcissus
USDA zones: 3-8
Bearing the same name as the Greek God who fell in love with his own reflection, the Narcissus is a true symbol of beauty. Many may be familiar with the standard yellow Daffodil (a common English name), but the genus also includes a variety of 50 to 100 frilly gems in yellow, white, orange, and everything in between.
Narcissus have many specialty varieties outside the standard yellow daffodil.
Alliums
USDA zones: 3-9
Alliums are in the same family as the onion, yet the decorative varieties don’t have edible bulbs. What they do have is fascinating blooms with structures that decorate the garden long after the flower has faded. While there are over 750 species, some are wild, some are edible, and a few are absolute showstoppers in a garden. Read more All About Alliums.
Alliums leave behind decorative seed heads.
Anemones
USDA zones: 7-10
If you fondly remember picking buttercups as a child, you’ll adore the grown-up version, Anemones, meaning “daughter of the wind” in Greek. These delicate, low-growing blooms will surely perk up the front border with rich colour and what seems to be an all-knowing eye dramatically darkening the center.
Anemones most often come in jewel tones.
More Bulbs to Love
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
The spring garden is a joyous sight full of colour and happy blooms, many of which come from bulbs (or corms and tubers) that are planted in the fall. Spring gardening may be the last thing on your mind while you are busily tending to autumn chores, but take a bit of time to plant some fall bulbs, and I know you will be thanking me next year for this little reminder!
Anemone photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu
Fall bulbs are also known as spring-flowering bulbs. The two terms are used interchangeably, and both are technically correct as the bulbs are available for sale and planted in the fall, but they flower in the spring.
No matter what you call them, they make wonderful garden decoration and cut flowers to bring inside the house. They are easy to plant, and if they are happy in the spot you’ve put them in, they will come back year after year (in most cases).
Really, what’s not to love?
The only caveat is that you need to REMEMBER to plant them in the fall because they require a period of cold temperatures to stimulate root development. I think that’s why I’ve always heard them called “fall bulbs;” from the messaging that is out there reminding us gardeners to get planting the bulbs that will grow our spring flowers.
Let me show you how to plant them!
Is the bulb already starting to bloom? It’s ready to go in the soil!
What’s in a Name? Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers
Flower “bulb” is the commonly used term for a swollen underground plant part, such as a true bulb, corm, or tuber. While it’s not unusual to group these types of plants together because they share similar planting and storage characteristics, it can be helpful to know the difference when cultivating the different types of plants.
Flowerbulb.eu helps to clarify more for us, “Technically speaking, many popular ‘bulb” flowers are not produced from true flower bulbs at all. Crocuses and gladioli, for example, are really corms, while such favourites as dahlias and begonias are really tubers. The main distinguishing trait is their method of storing food. In corms, most of the food is stored in an enlarged basal plate rather than the fleshy scales, which in corms are much smaller.”
Tulips are true bulbs.
Planting and Caring for Fall Bulbs
This guide will cover when to plant spring-flowering bulbs, how to plant them, watering needs, overwintering, and designing your bulb garden.
Tulips can be perennials or annuals, depending on what kind you buy,
When to Plant Spring Flowering Fall Bulbs
Spring-flowering bulbs get planted sometime in the fall, but the timing varies for each type of flower. As a general rule, plant them as early in the fall as you can so that the bulbs have a chance to develop a strong root system. At the very latest, they must go into the ground before the last frost.
If you’re buying your bulbs from a mail-order company, they won’t ship them out until the ideal planting time for your area, so the work is usually done for you.
If you are purchasing bulbs from a garden centre, they will often stock them a bit earlier than the ideal planting date and continue selling them until they are sold out, possibly long after frost. Be sure to thoroughly read the instructions and timing for planting the individual bulbs to get the best results.
It’s best to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive in the mail or you pick them up at the garden center. If you have to delay planting for some reason, then store them in a dry, cool location, out of direct sunlight, where temperatures are between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Bulbs need to go in the ground before the first frost.
How to Plant Bulbs
Your bulbs should come with full instructions for how to plant them, but for some general guidelines, here are some professional planting tips from FlowerBulbs.com.
SPONSORED CONTENT: The following excerpt is reprinted with permission, and some of the photos in this post are courtesy of FlowerBulbs.com, a fantastic source of information on flower bulbs.
“Most spring-flowering Dutch flower bulbs will thrive in either full or partial sun, but will do just fine in almost any location that offers good drainage. Flower bulbs will rot in standing water, so avoid areas prone to flooding, such as at the bottom of slopes or under drainage pipes.
After choosing the site:
Dig either a trench for a bed planting or individual holes for individual flower bulbs or a small cluster of flower bulbs. To determine how deep to plant, consider the diameter or size of the flower bulb. Large flower bulbs (2 inches across or more) are usually planted about 6 inches deep; smaller-sized flower bulbs (1 inch) are planted 3-4 inches deep.
Loosen the soil with a rake to aerate it and also remove any weeds and small stones. Mix in a bit of compost to improve soil drainage. Place, do not push, bulbs firmly in the soil with the pointed side up. Space large bulbs 3-8 inches apart and small bulbs 1-3 inches apart. (If you’re not sure which end is right side up, don’t worry. Upside-down flower bulbs usually come up anyway!)
Cover the flower bulbs with soil and then water generously if the soil is not yet moist. Add 2-3 inches of mulch on top of the garden bed. This will provide added protection from the cold and keep the soil from drying out.”
A power planter can help speed up individual bulb plantings.
Designing With Spring Flowering Bulbs
Now, let’s look at how to design with bulbs in the garden.
Just as there are many garden styles, there are many different ways of planting bulbs in your garden. They can be scattered throughout the beds, popping up between perennials and shrubs. They can create a decorative border lining a walkway or framing evergreen garden features. Or they can be layered so that you have intentional waves of blooms producing consistently over many months.
Scattering Bulbs Throughout the Garden
Spring-flowering bulbs are the perfect way to add some lively colour to a garden filled with perennials, shrubs, and trees that are dormant in the winter. While the perennials and shrubs are beginning to set out new shoots and leaves, strategically-placed bulbs fill in the spaces.
Choose bulbs that bloom at the times when your perennial trees and shrubs are dormant. Then plant them in groups of five to seven around the roots of the dormant plants.
To allow the bulbs to naturalize with the existing plants, be sure to plant in the loose soil near the plants and mark the spot so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs up when dividing the perennials.
Some spring bulbs bloom before the trees and shrubs above them leaf out, meaning they get more sunlight than you might think. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.
Planting Bulbs in a Border
A border of fall bulbs is a lovely way to line a walkway or the front of a garden bed. The placement of these bulbs is the opposite of planting them above the roots of perennials and shrubs. Instead, you will plant these deeper in the soil and add annuals above them to fill in those months whenthey are not blooming.
These bulbs are planted in the fall, at which time you can plant fall annuals in the soil above. In the spring, the bulbs will bloom, and when they die back, the soil above can be planted again with summer annuals.
Plant fall annuals at the same time so you don’t accidentally dig up your bulbs. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.
Layering Bulbs
Layering fall bulbs refers to planting different types of flower bulbs at different depths in the soil to stagger the bloom times and increase the number of flowers that you can get in a small space. Many refer to this as planting flower bulb lasagna.
To layer fall bulbs, select a combination of bulbs that will do well in similar conditions, but that have different bloom times, heights, and decorative features like colour.
Plant the bulbs at the recommended planting depth, which will usually be planting larger bulbs into the ground around 6 to 8 inches deep, medium bulbs above them at 3 to 5 inches deep, and the smallest in the top 1 to 2 in of soil.
Layering bulbs works really well in containers. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.
Overwintering Fall Bulbs
Spring-flowering fall bulbs will not only tolerate cool winter soil, but they need it in order to thrive. Many bulbs are tolerant of many different soil types as well, as much as what they need to grow is stored in the bulb. The biggest question that many people have about overwintering bulbs is whether to water them or not.
The answer is, “not really.”
Newly planted bulbs should be watered in the fall in an area that drains well. As the season cools, they do not need to be watered, but also don’t need to be protected from rain or snow as long as the bulbs you are choosing are suitable to plant in your climate and hardiness zone.
As long as the soil is free-draining and they aren’t left sitting in standing water, they will be happily dormant until the spring. In spring, watering is only necessary if the soil is dry.
Many bulbs are built to withstand the snow and cold, needing it to thrive.
Hopefully you now have everything you need to get out there and plant some fall bulbs! If you still have questions like, “do they need to be lifted out of the garden after blooming?” or “will deadheading increase blooms?” Flowerbulbs.com has some great answers to common questions about bulbs in their FAQ section.
But Wait! There are More Bulbs to Love!
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
We’re heading into late autumn, and that means peak bulb-planting time. As long as the soil is not frozen, you can plant for next spring and summer. Alliums are one of the most rewarding, and least demanding, of bulbs. As a category these eye-catching flowers offer so much more than the giant purple balls that their name may conjure—although we love those, too. Alliums can be ample or petite, loose or compact, white, near-blue, lilac, pink or purple, native or exotic. They offer flowers for pure ornament, for pollinators, for floral stylists, and for the (supper) table. And the best part? Squirrels and critters don’t eat them. Neither do deer. Mostly. (Deer be deer.)
Above: Once planted, expect alliums to return, year after year.
This may be obvious to experienced gardeners, but the fact that you can plant alliums, walk away, and enjoy them for years to come, is a bonus.
2. Alliums are excellent in pots.
Above: In small gardens like mine, alliums offer vertical interest without hogging valuable space.
For container gardeners, allium bulbs can be dropped neatly into a pot that is already occupied. I use a narrow hori to make the hole. Plant three to five in a pot (which should be least 12 inches in diameter), and combine them either with annuals, perennials, or even shrubs. I grow mine with cilantro, sown in spring, and with roses, in large pots.
3. They are meadow-friendly.
Above: Allium schubertii is seen from above while meadow grasses are still young, in early May. Above: Allium obliquum‘s twisted stems on New York’s High Line.
In wilder, less formal plantings, alliums can blend with grasses and other species.
4. They offer structure and texture.
Above: A constellation of stars behind the beaded seedpods of sea kale. Above: A smoothly fat allium with feathered wormwood. Above: A sea of pleated hosta leaves with tall white alliums in the Conservancy Gardens at Battery Park, New York.
Whether low-growing and loose, like A. schubertii, or statuesque on slender stalks, alliums’ signature symmetry offers immediate structure and rhythm within a loose and wild planting, or above a more austere palette, like the hostas above.
Alliums are wonderful, unique-looking plants that come in a ton of different varieties. Their vibrant round purple flower heads stand out in the garden, and their seed heads make a stunning display. Plant them as bulbs this fall, and enjoy them next spring!
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
Alliums are everywhere in the garden. Some are a tasty addition to your favourite recipe (garlic, onions), some decorate the garden (ornamental alliums), and some are just plain weird (Egyptian walking onions). No matter how you use them, alliums are the perfect plant to pretty up your garden.
Alliums are members of the onion family. Garlic, chives, and onions are all harvested for their tasty and fragrant leaves and bulbs, but many gardeners also grow them because of their attractive flower heads.
Chives are often grown throughout the garden because of their purple pompom flowers that look decorative in the garden bed. Even better, onions and garlic are unappealing to garden pests like rodents, deer, and many insects. These easy-care plants don’t have a lot of natural pests, making them even more attractive to gardeners.
There’s a lot to know about alliums, so let’s dive into it!
Sponsored content: thank you to flowerbulbs.com for providing some of the lovely photos for this post! Flowerbulbs.com is an extremely helpful resource for learning about new flower bulbs and helps to support European bulb growers.
Growing Ornamental Alliums
There are other members of the allium family that don’t have the flavour but do have decorative bursts of flowers above a thin stock. Ornamental onions are prized in the garden for their interesting round purple flower heads, their attractiveness to bees and other pollinators, and, especially, for their dried seed heads.
Check the cultivars sold in your area; there are some for Zones 3 to 9. Allium plants aren’t picky about soil but they do love the sun!
Grow alliums from bulbs.
Alliums range in colour from shades of blue, purple, white, and yellow. The flower heads are usually round but can be drumstick-shaped perfect-globe round, or even a nodding crown.
Typically, the flower heads themselves won’t smell much like onion, but the foliage might. Even then, you have to crush it to get that fragrant smell. You may notice it when working alongside your allium flowers when disturbing the leaves.
The size of the blooms is also what makes them quite special. They can range from one foot tall to up to six feet tall. Some of the shorties aren’t necessarily teeny tiny flowers, either.
One of my very favourite ones is A. schubertii, which grows only about one to three feet tall and is mostly a huge 18” diameter explosion of flowers. The dried seed head makes for an amazing sculpture to use in your home decor. You can expect to see your allium flower blooms in late spring or early summer.
Planting Allium Flowers
Alliums are usually planted from bulbs. They are planted in early autumn, normally quite deep in the ground, from two to four inches.
It’s best to cluster bulbs together, with groupings of 12 to 25 small or 3-6 large looking the most attractive in the garden. You don’t need to worry about any kind of prep to the bulbs before planting, such as soaking. Once planted, give them a thorough watering after they’re in the ground.
Of course, you can always plant a set of three into containers or in between other plantings. They look most impressive grouped together like a wave of fireworks celebrating above the garden.
Plant your allium bulbs in the fall and they will bloom in the spring.
The foliage of allium plants isn’t that impressive and when the blooms die back it can look quite messy. They do best when planted in between a bunch of low-growing perennials with dense and interesting foliage to hide and distract from this.
Allium in the stage between blooming and setting seed.
Allium Plant Seeds
Allium plants produce seeds that can be saved and sown in the garden; however, it will take several years for the plant to flower. By planting bulbs in the fall, you’ll have flowers the very next summer.
Let alliums dry fully and the seed heads will open.
Some alliums produce bulbs on their heads after the flowers have faded. The Egyptian walking onion (A. × proliferum) is a great example of this. After the flower is finished they form small bulbs (called aerial bulbils) that get quite heavy on the top of the thin stock.
The Egyptian walking onion then flops over and plants itself on the ground beside the mother plant, essentially walking around the garden. These bulbs can also be harvested and eaten.
Treat the grouping of bulbs like a perennial clump and divide them when the clump becomes overcrowded. In my experience, allium plants only flower for a few years, so I do end up buying a few new bulbs every year or two to replenish the planting.
Harvesting Seed Heads
After your alliums have finished flowering, you can deadhead them if that’s what you prefer. Wait until the allium flower heads have lost all colour and have turned a yellow to brown. Simply snip off the whole stalk right to the ground and leave them as is. The bulb will remain dormant for the rest of the year and rest up until next spring.
But, if you’re like me, you can also leave them as is after they have finished flowering! The seed heads themselves are gorgeous and add a different kind of texture to the garden.
Alliums after they’ve finished flowering.
Give it a try, and leave the decorative seed heads in the garden. They lose the purple colour but they have a sculpture, globe-like appeal.
They can be harvested to use for crafts and flower arrangements as well. If you’d like to use them for arrangements, try to keep the stems as long as possible. The seed heads will last well in any arrangement without any need for sealer.
The stem becomes woody and will be beautiful for years if kept indoors. Left unprotected outdoors, they will break down over the season. However, you can paint them to add colour and protection if you want to leave them outdoors.
Fully dried allium seed head.
7 Types of Ornamental Alliums to Grow
Here are a few of my favourite allium varieties to grow in the garden. Whether you want to eat them or just enjoy their decorative look, there are sure to be a few varieties that appeal to you.
Many alliums grow tall and big. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
Drumstick
Drumstick allium (A. sphaerocephalon) has an oblong, burgundy flower that reaches two feet high but is only one to two inches in diameter. They change from green to wine colour, looking decorative in the garden at all stages. Plant at least 25 of these small bulbs among perennial plants such as Hosta, Alchemilla or among ornamental grasses.
Flowering period: May – June
Average plant height: 24 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
Light requirements: full sun
Drumstick allium
A. giganteum “Globemaster”
A. giganteum, or ‘Globemaster,’ has huge 8” diameter round heads containing over 100 flowers on 4-foot tall stems. These are truly impressive onions! The foliage withers quickly as the plant blooms, so they are best towering over the back of a sunny border.
Flowering period: May – June
Average plant height: 68 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 12 inches
Light requirements: full sun
Globemaster allium. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
A. shubertii
A. shubertii, also known as Tumbleweed Onion, have short stalks but a flower head that looks like a fireworks display and produces a stunning seed head sculpture.
Flowering period: May – June
Average plant height: 16-20 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Tumbleweed onion.
A. christophii
A profusely flowering allium species, its gray-green leaves remain attractive for a fairly long period. It is absolutely perfect for naturalizing in lightly shaded locations and in soil that remains sufficiently moist.
Flowering period: May – June
Average plant height: 12 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Allium christophii. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
A. ‘hair’
Allium ‘hair’ is a weird and wonderful plant with green tentacle-like flowers. Some people call them aliens or Dr. Seuss plants, but they remind me of the Muppets!
Flowering period: April – June
Average plant height: 24 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 2 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Allium ‘hair’. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
A. oreophilum
A. oreophilum is a delicate yet brilliantly coloured flower that naturalizes easily.
Flowering period: May – June
average plant height: 8 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
Type of bulb: true bulb
Light requirements: full sun
Allium oreophilum. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
A. karataviense
A. karataviense is the ‘Ivory Queen.’ Very striking with dense, purple-gray flower colour, and spotted leaves. Ivory Queen has a wonderful scent, and it is the best variety for container gardens.
Flowering period: May – June
Average plant height: 10 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 6 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 8 inches
Type of bulb: true bulb
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Allium ‘Ivory Queen.’ Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
A Few Edible Beauties
Nodding onions (Allium cernuum) have delicate crowns of flowers that hang upside down or nod when in bloom.
Garden chives.
Garden chives (Allium schoenoprasum). Yes, that’s right, I have chives on this list because they are ornamental, hardy, edible, and great natural pest control! Plant clumps of chives all over your garden and pests will be sent packing while the bees feast (and you can too).
Alliums FAQ
Is allium garlic or onion?
Both! Garlic and onions both belong to the Allium genus, which comprises more than 500 species, including other popular vegetables like shallots, chives, leeks, and scallions.
Do alliums spread on their own?
Many alliums will set seed and could spread, but it takes a few years for those plants to flower. Meanwhile, some varieties won’t spread at all. If you want alliums that spread, look for the word naturalizing when purchasing allium bulbs.
What not to plant with alliums?
Alliums are a wonderful companion plant, often deterring pests from your other nearby vegetables when planted close by. However, they shouldn’t be planted next to most plants in the legume family, including beans and peas. Also, keep them away from asparagus and sage.
The new book A Year in Bloom has a great premise: Ask some of the world’s top garden people to talk about their favorite bulbs, thus solving one of gardeners’ biggest dilemmas—which of the many, many bulbs out there to plant. And the beautifully packaged results come as a relief, as the trend is mainly toward less artifice and less effort when it comes to bulbs.
Written and compiled by Lucy Bellamy (former editor of Gardens Illustrated) and photographed by Jason Ingram (the best in the business), the book’s contributors offer insights that make for a fun read. Not all of their comments made it into the book—and we have some of them here. Let’s take a look.
Above: Narcissus ‘Bath’s Flame’ and N. ‘White Lady’.
Daffodils that look like they might have been shown at the RHS exhibition halls in Westminster 100 years ago are the ones with the right look, and yellow is not to be shied away from. Of Narcissus ‘Bath’s Flame’ (above left), Lucy writes, “Over recent years there has been a trend for more delicate forms of narcissus that sit easily in semi-wild plantings, and ‘Bath’s Flame’ is at once just wild and just cultivated enough.”
Narcissus ‘White Lady’ was chosen by admired Irish plantsman Jimi Blake, who told Lucy: “This variety was originally grown as a cut flower back in 1898. It’s pure elegance on a stem, with its pristine white petals and soft yellow cup with a delicious scent. I grow this in a border with other simple narcissus such as ‘Polar Ice’, ‘Thalia’ and ‘Segovia’. The other nominee for N. ‘White Lady’ was your own Gardenista correspondent—me. They were in the old-fashioned cottage garden of my elderly next door neighbor, and they began to drift into mine, with some help.
Above: Crocus sieberi ‘Firefly’ with ruffed yellow Eranthis hyemilis (winter aconite), planted in the perfect setttng, amid leaf litter from the previous autumn.
Lucy points out that bulbs that are good for naturalizing also look quite “natural.” Crocus are small, and they shine in the low-key surroundings of dried leaves, and under the bare limbs of shrubs and trees. There is no need to bundle up the leaves of daffodils after flowering, or tie them into neat knots; the simpler forms tend to have more demure foliage, which disappears into lengthening grass as the season progresses. It’s best to leave them alone anyway, so that seeds can disperse, and bulbs can spread underground. When they appear year on year, they are “emulating the patterns they make in nature.”
Above: Narcissus bulbocodium and N. pseudonarcissus.
The hooped petticoat-shape of Narcissuc bulbocodium is the same yellow hue as other spring flowers, including daffodils, but its character is altogether different. Described by California landscape designer Ron Lutsko as “steadfast and cheerful,” it benefits from being away from the throng. “It is best grown in pots as a single-species group, to give the opportunity of closely observing the flowers.”
Delightfully named Narcissus pseudonarcissus is the diminutive wild daffodil of the Wye Valley and Welsh Borders, and it’s also the “go-to choice” for Sissinghurst’s head gardener, Troy Scott Smith. James Basson, garden designer and a Chelsea Flower Show star who is based in the French Alpes-Maritimes, says: “These daffodils revel in the stone cracks of karst landscapes [featuring eroded limestone], and they push through the snow to shout out in bright yellow.” This was the second most nominated bulb.
Above: Crocus tommasinianus and Erythronium ‘Joanna’.
With their iconic shape and eye-catching colour varieties, tulips just might be my favourite spring flower—both in the ground and in a vase! It’s no wonder they’re one of the most popular cut flowers, and they’re surprisingly easy to grow. The only catch is that these bulbs should be planted in the fall, so let’s get into my advice for growing cutting tulips.
What do most people love about the tulips? You plant the bulbs once and forget about it. They return year after year, giving you a much-needed burst of colour after a snowy (or, in my case, grey) winter.
I hate to burst the tulip bubble, but that’s not always the case. Yes, there is such a thing as perennial vs annual tulips.
Many people plant tulips with the intention that they’ll come back each year, but this is a misconception, as the majority of tulips we plant are annuals.
Once they bloom, they generally don’t propagate very well unless you’re a tulip farmer, backyard farmer, or just a really darn good tulip gardener. This takes careful work to get them to grow back. For the majority of us, you won’t have tulips that naturalize very easily.
So here’s what you can do. Plant whatever tulips you wish, but plant them as cut flowers.
The price of tulip bulbs is very similar to that of other annuals you might find at the garden centre, yet we’re A-okay with saying goodbye to those plants at the end of the year. Why not our tulip bulbs, too?
This releases the expectation that they’ll return year after year. You can plant them once, cut them in the spring, and put them in the vase. Next fall, you do it all over again.
With that said, I thought now would be the perfect time to share some tips for growing tulips for a cutting garden so that you can look forward to some beautiful floral arrangements next year.
Sponsored: I’m thrilled that this post has been sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu. They’re an amazing resource for all things bulbs and graciously supported the planting of my bulb lawn last year and the tulip cutting garden this year. Be sure to check them out for more growing information on spring and summer flowering bulbs.
Unpackage all your tulips first to make planting easier.
Perennial vs Annual Tulips
I’ve written quite a bit about both perennial and annual tulips. Perennials will naturalize in your garden and are great for a low-maintenance garden. But they don’t usually have as big of a “wow factor” as annuals.
Annual tulips are bred specifically for looks. They come in the showiest colours and textures, which means they’re perfect for cutting. You can choose exactly the look you’re going for, and their colours tend to be bolder than their perennial counterparts.
If you do decide to go for perennial tulips instead, you may also need to adjust your expectations. While you can certainly cut perennial tulips, just know that they may not return as easily the next year. Make sure to leave the leaves behind so the bulb can recharge and get enough energy to return the following year.
And hey, you can plant tulips expecting them for one year. Then, who knows, you might get lucky and see them return for the following year. Just try to release the expectation that your tulips will return each year to lessen the disappointment when they don’t return and triple the joy if they do!
Annual tulips have been bred to be showy, and for long, sturdy cutting stems.
My Tulip Garden Design
This fall, I planted my tulip cutting garden in front of my herbs, so it sits between my front containers and dry river, and amongst my wildflower lawn.
I included tulips in my bulb lawn last year, and I ended up cutting a ton of them to bring indoors. So, I’m excited to set aside a part of my garden specifically for cutting tulips this year.
To add to my bulb lawn, I planted 250 tulips with my power planter. I wanted to make sure that I’ll have a few different flowers to work with when I eventually harvest my tulips, so I planted a few varieties. I went with ‘Blue Diamond’ double late tulips, as well as assorted double lates, triumph, fringed, and species tulips.
To add even more variety and colour, I dotted some crocus flowers throughout the lawn in this area. I also pulled out any buttercup weed that was creating patches and made sure to fill in any bare areas with the tulip bulbs.
My front lawn with my containers, dry river, and wildflower lawn where I planted my tulips.
Planting Cutting Tulips
I usually get my tulips in the ground by mid-October, so now is the perfect time to start planting. If you can, choose a sunny spot in your garden, although tulips aren’t too picky and can handle some shade as well.
After pulling some weeds, I had the perfect loose soil ready for planting tulips.
Once you’ve chosen a spot, you can start placing your bulbs in loose soil with the roots down and the pointy end facing up. A power planter will come in handy here, as tulips need to be planted fairly deep if you want their stems to be strong. Two to three times the height of the bulb is a general rule of thumb.
If you’re planting many bulbs but spaced out, a power planter will really help speed things up.
The nice thing about growing tulips for cutting purposes is that they can be placed quite close together.
Once you have the bulbs deep in the ground (two to three times the height of the bulb), you can spread a layer of mulch over them and give them a good watering. After this, they won’t need any more water or fertilizer until they sprout in the spring (unless you have a prolonged period of drought.
Once your tulips have opened slightly and some colour is showing on the outside, it’s time for the exciting part—cutting your beautiful tulips so you can bring them inside!
To get the longest vase life possible, you want to make sure you’re cutting them at the right time. Don’t cut them when they’re still tight and green. You want half of their colour to show.
When the time comes for harvesting, I recommend doing so in the morning when it’s not too hot out and the tulips are the most hydrated.
Like I mentioned, I recommend treating all tulips as annuals if you’re growing them for cutting. This means you can pull the entire plant out of the ground, including the bulb. The nice thing about this method is that it gives you a longer stem.
If you’re not planning on putting them in a vase immediately, you can also store them dry in a cooler for up to two weeks. Otherwise, just cut off the bulb and place it in water. I can usually enjoy a vase of tulips for about a week and a half.
If you’ve ever had tulips, you’ll know that the stems have a habit of curving, which causes the flowers to look droopy. One trick I’ve learned is to wrap the stems in paper and leave them in a vase the night before you arrange them. When you remove the paper, they’ll stand straighter.
When you’re arranging your tulips, also keep in mind that they do continue to grow in the vase.
The Best Tulips for Cut Flowers
Triumph tulips are the largest group of tulips, which means they come in a wide variety of colours and shapes. Their tall, sturdy stems make them a great choice for cutting.
Rembrandt tulips are known for their distinct striped markings. I like that they add a beautiful pop of uniqueness to any arrangement.
Fringed tulips are recognizable by their serrated petals, which give them a fluffy look. They’re excellent for adding a contrasting texture to a classic tulip bouquet.
Double late tulips are often mistaken for peonies as they have lush, rounded petals. With a variety of single and bi-colour options, these look beautiful in vases and gardens alike.
I like getting an assorted pack just so I have the colour variety, like these double late tulips.
FAQs About Cutting Tulips
How long do fresh cut tulips last?
When you harvest tulips fresh from your garden, they can last up to two weeks in a vase! If you’ve ever had store-bought tulips, you’ll know this is quite the improvement from the typical four to five days.
Do you trim tulips for a vase?
I always recommend giving your tulips a good trim before placing them in your vase to avoid putting the leaves in water. This helps the tulips last longer and makes them easier to arrange.
When do I harvest tulips for cut flowers?
Harvesting your flowers at the right time really is key to using tulips as cut flowers. Wait until your tulips have opened slightly, but make sure to cut them before they’re in full bloom. You’ll know it’s the right time when about half their colour is visible.
A year ago, I planted 1500 bulbs in my front lawn in an attempt to create an epic spring showcase. But how did it turn out? I’m sharing the dirt on the successes, challenges, and all the things I learned in my first year of naturalizing bulbs in my lawn.
Crocus bulbs.
Last fall, I planted over 1500 bulbs in my front yard. Yes, 1500!
Since fall bulb planting has delayed gratification, I had to wait a whole season to see if my hard work would pay off.
I’m happy to say that I had one of the most beautiful springs thanks to all of the flowers.
Oh,didn’t I mention? Instead of grass, I planted wildflower seeds over the bulbs.
DOUBLE FLOWER LAWN!
Let’s dive into what you need to know about naturalizing bulbs in a lawn, and how my first year flower lawn turned out.
Sponsored Content: I’m so happy to be working with flowerbulb.eu once again after they sponsored the first planting of my bulb lawn last year. They don’t sell flower bulbs, their goal is to spread information of bulbs. They’re truly an amazing resource to learn about spring and summer flowering bulbs, with plenty of tips on how to plant them.
The very first of the bulbs to come up were iris and crocus. While a turf lawn would have green grass by this time, my wildflower seedings were just sprouting.
My Bulb Lawn Design
My front lawn was a mix of patchy grass, weeds, and moss. The grasses were struggling, so to keep some green and avoid a winter of mud, I dug out little shapes and islands throughout the lawn. I didn’t weed, top the soil up, and grade the lawn at this stage, I just added the bulbs.
I made my own mix of ten different bulbs, including narcissus, anemone, dwarf iris, snowdrops, muscari crocus, tulips, and Lucile’s glory-of-the-snow. In true chaos gardening style, I added handfuls to the planting holes, turned them right side up, and placed the lawn chunks back over them.
My bulb design last year consisted of digging quick patches and covering them back up with the turf grass.
A Warm Winter
In February, it was so warm with El Niño that we started to see some early signs of spring. I thought, why not follow Mother Nature’s lead?
Once again I skipped the weeding and removing the grass. Instead, I opted for a chaos gardening approach. I loaded in tons of topsoil and put it over the existing lawn and graded the lawn. Once I raked it all out, I spread the wildflower seeds on top. Just in time, as the bulbs began to come up.
In no timeyou could see all the bulbs beginning to come up and the little seeds germinating.
The successes were certainly the narcissus and grape hyacinth. They grey in plentiful clusters and looked striking together. At that same time the anemones were blooming but they grew quite short. Since they are a similar colour to the grape hyacinth they got a bit lost. Such a shame, they are one of my favourite flowers.
I was surprised how few snowdrops, crocus, and iris came up. These are so often the bulbs that thrive in mass plantings. Perhaps I planted the bulbs too deeply or perhaps the poor showing was due to the big deep freeze we had. Probably, they simply need a few more years to naturalize and really give me the wow factor I’m looking for.
The Bulb Lawn in the Summer
After the bulbs had their spring welcome party, they went dormant for the summer. Since I don’t mow my lawn, it allowed the bulbs to recharge (my wildflower lawn doesn’t need mowing either).
I started the wildflowers from seed, so there was a constant flush of flowers on my lawn well after the bulbs were gone. The bulbs really steal the show in the spring, and give my seedlings a chance to germinate and grow. A perfect pairing!
From spring to summer, I had people stopping to admire my lawn and all its beautiful flowers.
Filling in the Gaps
What are the jobs to do one year later? Not much! I’m adding 200 assorted crocus bulbs to add a bit more colour to the early spring.
While 200 isn’t very many, it’s a boost to the spaces that were looking a bit bare. My lawn also isn’t super large, so it will be enough to make a difference.
A power planter can help speed up individual bulb plantings.
To plant the crocus bulbs, I used a Power Planter auger attachment for my drill to loosen up the soil and make planting holes. It even would up a few buttercup vines at the same time! I moved the wildflowers aside gently and planted where there was some bare space. I planted the crocuses in groups of 8-10, pointy side up and about 4” deep. Next year there will be a wave of flowers that will fill out more each year.
I planted 200 assorted crocus bulbs for some more early spring blooms.
What I Learned Growing a Bulb Lawn
Sometimes, it was rainbows and sunshine, and sometimes, it was shade and mud. Here are my biggest takeaways from my first year.
The Challenges of the First Year
Since it was the first year, it did look a little sparse. While 1500 bulbs may sound like a lot, it does take a few years for the bulbs to naturalize and multiply to really fill in the lawn.
Because this was the first year of my wildflower lawn, I also had that period where I just had bare soil with seedlings coming through. It didn’t look that great while I waited for things to sprout and bloom.
On the other hand, with 1500 bulbs planted, so many flowers sprung up that visitors didn’t notice my muddy mess beneath. Takeaway: people only notice the blooms. While I, the gardener, noticed the bare spots and mud, the folks who walk by just see the flowers, smile, and tell me how much they enjoy my yard. Love!
This is the most beautiful result of my bulb lawn: the joy it has brought to my neighbourhood. Every time I went outside, people would stop me to talk about the flowers. Those who have lived in this neighbourhood for years talked about how they watched the previous owners struggle with the turf grass and that they appreciated my new direction.
The bare spots of my lawn in the fall.
Cutting Flowers
Last fall I didn’t even think I was also planting a lawn full of cut flowers! As the bulbs grew in and bloomed, I has so many tulips, narcissus, and muscari that I began to cut some and bring them inside rather than purchase a bouquet at the grocery store.
While most are short stems, a bulb lawn can still be a creative way to have a cut flower garden with little fuss. They won’t take up room in the flower bed, and you can choose to cut them or leave them as you wish. Tulips and daffodils are some of the best cut flowers for spring.
Planting Design
The effort of planting that many bulbs is also a consideration. I was experiencing a flare-up of so I didn’t quite have the mobility to individually plant each bulb. It was a faster solution to mix the bulbs and plant those randomly in the sections of lawn we cut out.
Even with the help of two other people, it took me three hours to plant these bulbs, even in this accelerated way.
If I had done the work of planning an intricate pattern throughout the garden, it would probably have looked more “designed”. But in reality, it would have taken me about five times as long. Chaos bulb planting for the win!
My design all along was to plant a meadow of spring bulbs spotted with wildflowers, and I’m eager to see it come together next spring.
It’s always beautiful to try and make a rive of grape hyacinth (muscari).
My DIY Bulb Mixture
For my bulb lawn, I mixed ten different kinds of bulbs together. I loved how easy it was for planting and that you got such a mixed, dotted lawn.
That said, if I were to do this again, I wouldn’t mix 10 types of bulbs, I would only choose 4-6 varieties, max. Same amount of effort, but there is more impact with many of the same flower rather than a smattering of 10 different types.
Even better, I would purchase a mixture of bulbs designed specifically for naturalizing bulbs in lawns. I made my own mixture, but bulb sellers do a great job of curating mixes for succession blooming and naturalizing.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu. A naturalized lawn often has a perfect combination of blooms and bloom times.
Low Maintenance for the Win
My bulb lawn was incredibly low maintenance. After the work of planting the bulbs, I pretty much did nothing else! It didn’t require any supplemental water, which is amazing.
I only watered my entire lawn once this summer, so the wildflowers did great as well.
As I mentioned above, I also didn’t have to mow. Without turf grass, I didn’t have to worry about having long unruly grass while I waited for the bulbs to recharge.
The sweet alyssum is still blooming on my wildflower lawn at the beginning of the fall.
Weeds, Oh My!
When I planted my bulbs and my wildflower lawn, I went for a chaos gardening approach. While most of this worked in my favour, the one thing I would do next time is to spend more time removing the weeds.
I didn’t pull out the weeds in my first go of planting, but they started taking over this summer and crowding out the wildflowers. I spent a couple of hours pulling out all the weeds so it wasn’t a huge job, but it is easier before they spread. While not every weed is a problem and I leave many to naturalize, I would recommend removing the really stubborn, difficult ones ahead of time.
The weeds in my lawn this fall.
What’s Next for My Bulb Lawn?
In the next couple of years, I will continue to learn what a bulb and wildflower lawn looks like as it starts to mature. A few more bulbs, a bit of seeding, and some clean up here and there to keep it tidy. That’s all this lawn needs. No water or mowing needed and still I get the most beautiful flowers for most of year.
I enjoy my mixed lawn of bulbs, wildflowers, and the odd native plant or two.
My key learning is that 1500 bulbs in a 600 square foot, small urban front yard still didn’t have as much wow factor as you would think.
You can never have too many bulbs. However many bulbs you think you’ve going to plant, double it, heck, triple it! You can’t get too many bulbs.
For a smaller budget, I would only go for one or two kinds of bulbs rather than ten. This way, the bulbs will all grow at the same time, and you’ll get an impressive display.
My front lawn today, with the containers, herb garden, and dry river next to my wildflower lawn.
So now, my next steps are really to do nothing, just as I’ve done for the rest of the year. Which is truly the dream from a regenerative gardening, chaos gardening, and permaculture standpoint.
I’m going to let the garden naturalize, sit back in front of the fireplace, read some wonderful books, and expect to be wowed with flowers next spring!
Bulbs are one of the brightest, boldest ways to fill your garden with a rainbow of colours and scents. But when fall comes around, we’re not ready to say goodbye to those summer-flowering bulbs. Learn how to store bulbs over winter so you can enjoy the same flowers again next season!
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
Over here on Garden Therapy, I have so much advice on bulbs. I just can’t get enough of them! They’re simply one of the best, most affordable ways to fill your garden with colour, fragrance, and create a haven for bees and other pollinators.
One of the first sights of spring, bulbs represent transformation. To me, bulbs symbolize the season’s rebirth and create instant optimism. Nothing gets me quite as giddy for the gardening season as seeing bulbs!
While there are spring bulbs, there are also plenty of summer-flowering, tender bulbs. These flowers are known for being extra brilliant, providing epic colour amid the growing season. Unfortunately, these bulbs in the winter are not cold hardy and often don’t return the following season when left in the ground.
Bulbs remain one of the most affordable ways to fill your home with flowers, but when you need to replace them every year, it can add up! However, you can learn how to dig up and store bulbs over the winter and continue to use the same bulbs every growing season. Here’s how!
Jump ahead to…
Spring Bulbs Vs Summer Flowering Bulbs
Not all bulbs are the same! Spring bulbs, or the more accurate name of fall bulbs, are considered the same thing. Planted in the fall, they pop up and emerge in the spring for a splash of colour after a dreary winter.
These spring bulbs must be planted in the fall because they rely on the cold. The cold tells them to develop roots, and they know it’s time to spring up when the weather begins to warm.
On the other end, you havesummer flowering bulbs. These are planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. Complete sun lovers, these plants don’t love the cold as much and may need to consider wintering bulbs. Otherwise, they’re treated as annuals.
While I’m using the term bulb, this also applies to tubers, corms, and rhizomes. All refer to the swollen underground part of the plant used to store food. However, where they store the food varies, which is the key difference in the names. But! These tips for overwintering bulbs will apply to all under the “bulb” category.
Dahlia tubers can even be divided in the fall to make more plants.
Can You Leave Bulbs in the Ground Over Winter?
When looking at what to do with your bulbs in winter, you need to determine which bulbs are sun lovers and which ones are cold-hardy. The spring bulbs should stay in the ground over winter since they rely on the cold to bloom. The summer-flowering bulbs, meanwhile, may need to be dug up, or they may rot if left in the soil.
Depending on where you live, some summer-flowering bulbs may be okay to stay in the ground. Here are some of the most popular summer-flowering bulbs and the zones they’re cold hardy in.
If these bulbs are hardy in your zone, you can still help them during the winter. Wait until the foliage has completely died down before trimming it down to 2-3 inches. Add a layer of mulch over the bulbs to help retain the warmth while they rest up for the winter.
Honestly, I leave most of my summer bulbs in the garden rather than digging them up and storing them. I treat them as annuals and don’t feel guilty about letting them decompose in the ground. But I know that many people don’t want to spend money on bulbs every year or may have some specialty bulbs they want to keep. So that’s where these tips come in!
Gladiolus grow from corms, so they’re not technically true bulbs, but they can still be stored over winter using these instructions.
How to Store Bulbs Over Winter
If you have tender perennials, you’ll likely need to dig them up if you want to enjoy them again next season. Luckily, figuring out how to store bulbs over winter isn’t hard to do!
Dig Up Bulbs
Those bulbs need to get out of the ground! You’ll want to harvest the bulbs once all the foliage is dead. The leaves should easily pull away when tugged at. This should be done before the first frost, or it may be too late for the bulbs.
Use a garden fork to gently dig up the bulbs. Once again, be gently or you may pierce delicate root systems (like dahalia tubers).
Carefully brush the excess dirt off the bulbs. You can even rinse them if you’d like. Trim the foliage to 2-3 inches and cut any long, dangling roots.
Dry Out Bulbs
The bulbs will be full of moisture, so it’s vital to let them air dry before you pack them away for the winter.
First things first, make sure you label everything. Once dug up, all bulbs will look the same. So ensure you have masking or flagging tape and Sharpie ready to label all containers the bulbs will go in.
Set out newspaper or paper towel in a warm, dry place. Lay the bulbs out and allow them to sit for a couple of days. Let them completely dry and be free of any moisture before storing them.
Amaryllis bulbs ready to be stored. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
Store Bulbs
Storing bulbs is a delicate balance, as you don’t want them to get moist and become mouldy or rotten. However, you don’t want them to completely shrivel and dry up either. So ideally, you want to keep the moisture the bulbs have after drying out for a couple of days, but not obtaining any more.
Place your bulbs in a plastic container or cardboard box. Put down one layer, trying to ensure the bulbs don’t touch one another (in case one gets mouldy, you don’t want it to spread). Add a layer of growing medium, such as coconut coir, vermiculite, or sawdust. Ensure the tops are fully covered.
Add another layer of bulbs and growing medium, ensuring they all get enough air circulation.
There are many different ways to store bulbs. People will all have their own suggestions on the best storage methods, and one isn’t necessarily better than the other. For instance, Holly, our Content Manager, stores her dahlia tubers in plastic saran wrap, wrapping up divided tubers and storing them in a cardboard box.
Check the bulbs every once in a while to look for signs of rot, disposing of any rotten bulbs. Let the bulbs rest for a few months before planting again.
Depending on where you live, this should be around four months. Bulbs won’t usually last more than a year on storage, so planting late is better than never!
Plant Bulbs
Planting times will vary based on your location and the bulb type, but typically most tender bulbs should be planted after the last frost. When taking bulbs out of storage, any healthy bulbs will be large and firm. Get rid of any that look mushy or cracked.
One of my favourite ways to display bulbs is in containers. You can dig up some of your spring bulbs, or plant new ones altogether, to get an impressive display of colour in the spring.
With careful layering and the right container choice, you can easily do the work in the fall for a gorgeous spring. Check out my layering technique here!
Layered daffodil bulbs in a container. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
Frequently Asked Questions About Wintering Bulbs
What is overwintering?
Overwintering is the steps taken to help ensure a plant survives the winter. Typically, this involves protecting the plants from the cold by doing things like moving them inside or to a sheltered area, covering them with a protective layer, adding mulch, etc. Some plants need help overwintering, and others are fine all on their own.
Do you need to dig up bulbs in the winter?
This depends on the type of bulb. Spring bulbs should be left in the ground year-round. They require the cold to develop their roots and need the winter as part of their process.
As for tender, summer-flowering bulbs, follow your zone rules as to whether or not you need to winterize the bulbs. Most will need to be dug up before the first frost and brought inside to be dried and stored for the winter to be used again.
Should I water plants when overwintering?
Tender bulbs do not need to be watered. You want to avoid moisture and promote circulation as much as possible.
As for spring/fall bulbs, you want to water them as soon as you plant them in the fall in a well-draining area. Once things cool down, you don’t need to water or protect them. All the work is done!
That covers everything about how to winterize bulbs! Just taking an hour in the fall to dig up your bulbs will allow you to enjoy your flowers again and again.
Queen of the spring bulb pageant, the daffodil is everywhere after the snow melts. They come in quite a few varieties ranging from pure white to golden hues of yellow and orange. Daffodils are even more versatile than tulips and hyacinths, making them a great addition to even the toughest gardens. This daffodil care guide covers everything you need to know to have beautiful blooms welcome you into spring.
There was a time when I didn’t appreciate daffodils. I’m sure that was because I was never a huge fan of yellow, especially the iconic trumpet daffodil as seen in large bundles around Easter. They always reminded me of the Crayola primary yellow colour!
My neighbour planted a dense row of them in the bed that divided our two gardens. At first, I was a bit put off by the bank of yellow that bloomed every April, but then I grew to love the sturdiness and dependability of the sunny yellow faces that greeted me when I arrived home.
While they may be named after Narcissus, there is so much more to the daffodil than its bright yellow beauty. Let’s get into it!
Daffodils are known most for being bright yellow, but they also come in different cream and orange hues.
Sponsored Content: I have proudly partnered with FlowerBulbs.com to share this guide on daffodils (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We’ve partnered to help remind you that fall is bulb-planting season! There are a ton of bulbs you can purchase online at many retailers and garden centers. This is a great reminder to grab your favourite bulbs before all the good ones are sold out. Come springtime, you will be happy you took the initiative when you have a garden full of spring blooms.
The History of Daffodils
The botanical name for daffodil is Narcissus. It is believed to be named after the river god from Greek mythology of the same name. Narcissus was very beautiful and often had people fall in love with him, including the nymph Echo. However, he met her affections with disdain. This led the god of revenge, Nemesis, to make him fall in love with his own reflection. Unable to leave his own image, he eventually withered away, becoming a flower.
Daffodils also mean rebirth and new beginnings. They are one of the first flowers to emerge in spring after the frost, and they are known for brightening up the world after a dreary winter.
Daffodils are also valued in China as they grow around Chinese New Year. They represent good luck, prosperity, and good fortune. If they bloom on New Year’s Day, it means you will receive good luck for the year ahead.
Narcissus ‘Kiwi Sunset’ photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com
Daffodils as a Beacon of Hope
The daffodil is a beautiful mascot for a very important cause. Since the 1950s, the American Cancer Society and Canadian Cancer Society have used daffodils to represent hope for a cancer-free future. The daffodil was chosen because it represents a hardy flower that rises from the cold winter and blooms again in the spring. It represents vitality, growth, and new life.
Daffodil Month is celebrated throughout March. Daffodils are sold with all profits going towards helping those living with cancer and funding for cancer research. Next March, keep an eye out for daffodil sales in your local community to support this cause!
Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops” photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com
Daffodil Toxicity
It should be known that all parts of the daffodil bulb are toxic. While you may not think to reach for a daffodil when hungry, the bulbs can be mistaken for other plants, such as onions. Not to mention any curious kiddos or digging dogs out there!
Ingesting parts of a daffodil can lead to nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain. While these symptoms will only last for a few hours, they can easily be avoided. The toxicity comes from the chemical lycorine. The bulb contains the highest level of lycorine but it is also present throughout the plant.
Plant daffodils in an area where pets and children don’t frequent. While I wish all plants were edible, we have to be careful about what we plant and where. Children should always be supervised in the garden and taught not to eat anything they don’t know.
Ensure kids and pets stay away from daffodil bulbs and plants. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com
How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Daffodils
Daffodils are very popular because of their hardiness and ability to easily naturalize. They grow in zones 3-8, withstanding temperatures up to -50 degrees Fahrenheit.
That means most of us up north will have no trouble at all planting daffodil bulbs in the fall and waiting for them to bloom in the spring. They act as a perennial plant and flower early in the season. Overall, they are a fairly low maintenance bulb.
They can be planted just about anywhere, but they pair well with late-blooming perennials. Daffodils can provide some bright colour to otherwise dreary beds in the springtime. They can also be planted under shrubs and trees as they can handle shade.
Here is the lowdown on growing daffodils:
USDA Zones: 3-8
Flower colour: white, yellow, orange, red, and pink
Flowering period: February – May
Planting depth to the base of bulb: large bulbs – 8 inches; small bulbs – 5 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches for large bulbs; 1 inch for small bulbs
Landscape uses: daffodils are suitable for almost every possible application: fields, beds, containers, borders, rock gardens, as cut flowers, and for forcing.
Narcissus ‘Thalia’ photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com
Growing Daffodils in Containers
Container gardening is becoming increasingly popular. By placing daffodil bulbs in a container, you can force them to bloom a little bit earlier in the year. These make great additions to your balcony, patio, or entranceway while other flowers take their time to spring up.
You will want to choose daffodil varieties with short stems and foliage that aren’t too big for the container. When choosing a container, make sure it is at least 10-12 inches deep and has drainage holes. You can also add a layer of clay shards to the bottom of the container for extra drainage.
Press your bulbs into loose soil five inches deep (for small daffodils). You can place them relatively close together as the bulbs will not grow wider. Place your container outside and wait for the bulbs to emerge. If is it persistently dry outside, make sure to water them.
If frost is on its way, try to move your container into a safe place that isn’t too warm, such as a garage or shed. Bulbs in containers are more susceptible to cold as it comes in from all directions.
Daffodils as Cut Flowers
I added daffodils to my front yard bulb lawn. Amongst other bulbs, I had a huge mixture of different bulbs erupt. So much so that I was able to cut some and bring them inside to enjoy!
Harvest daffodils before they’ve fully opened and when the buds are fully coloured. Their necks should be slightly nodding. Harvesting them early will give you about a week’s vase life.
Daffodils are known as one of the “dirty dozen flowers” and emit sap when harvesting, so you’ll want to wear gloves. This sap is also toxic to other flowers, so you want to avoid putting them in a vase with others immediately.
Instead, you’ll want to condition the daffodils first by placing the fresh-cut flowers in cool water for a few hours. This will allow the stem to dry out. Then, you can place them with other flowers.
While normally you want to recut flower stems to freshen them in your vase, don’t recut daffodils as they will emit their toxic sap again, killing other flowers in the arrangement.
Make sure to condition daffodils first before putting them in arrangements. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com.
FAQ About Growing Daffodils
How long do daffodils last?
Most daffodils have a blooming period that can last for 4-6 weeks.
What do you do with daffodils after they bloom?
You can cut the main flower stalk after the daffodils have bloomed, but you must leave the leaves. The leaves are going to recharge the bulb so it can grow again the following year. Once the leaves begin to turn yellow and die back, you can clip back the leaves as well. Leave the bulb where it is, and it will be a sunny beacon again next year!
Will daffodil bulbs multiply?
Yes! Daffodils are known for naturalizing in garden beds and lawns and will begin to multiply 2-3 years after initial planting. For them to naturalize, they need to be left alone to recharge the bulb until the leaves turn yellow. Consider this when planting your daffodil bulbs (ie, you may not be able to mow a lawn for a while if you place them in your grass).
Any daffodil variety should naturalize, but some are better known for it, such as Narcissus ‘Actaea’ and Narcissus ‘Tete a Tete’.
Do daffodils bloom more than once?
Daffodils will only bloom once per season. Their bulbs have only enough energy to produce the blooms once.
If you like tulips then there are a number of other spring flowering bulbs that you will love! This list showcases flower bulbs that are super early bloomers, have stop-you-in-your-tracks fragrance, or produce unique flowers that give tulips a run for their money. Why not plant some of these bulbs this fall and create a stunning spring garden?
Tulips are wonderful plants. Frilly parrot tulips, deep-dark-almost-black purple tulips, cheery giant tulips, and many more can be found in my garden beds.
But tulips aren’t the only spring flowering bulbs I give space to in my garden. I get just as much (maybe even more) enjoyment out of these outstanding spring bloomers. And fall is the time to get them in the ground!
If you really want to make your spring a magical one, try planting some of these more unique and beautiful bulbs in your lawn…in addition to the tulips!
This post will cover…
Bulbs already sprouted? That’s quite alright. Still pop it in the ground.
Sponsored Content: I’m proudly partnering with FlowerBulbs.com to share this list of extraordinary spring flowering bulbs to plant in the fall. FlowerBulbs.com’s goal is to help spread information and love for gardening through bulbs. While I was creating this list of the bulbs I grow in my garden, I used the site as a resource for the growing information and some gorgeous photos. While this list is a compilation of my 12 favourite bulbs, corms, and tubers to plant in fall, there are many more to search through in FlowerBulbs.com’s spring database.
Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers
If you are scanning this list, you might feel compelled to shout, “Hey, that’s not a bulb!” I get it; words are important, especially when writing about plants.
Botanically, tulips grow from bulbs, but other plants that could be considered “flower bulbs” actually grow from corms (like crocuses) or tubers (like dahlias). Read more about this differentiation in this post on How to Plant Fall Bulbs.
Snowdrop (Galanthus spp.)
Snowdrops are close to my heart because they are the very first flower that shows its head in late winter, letting us know that spring is close at hand.
These delicate white and green bell-shaped flowers may seem unassuming, but in the winter, when everything else is gray and brown and dreary, their sweet stalks and blooms are like a breath of fresh air.
Snowdrop bulbs can be hard to find in the fall, but if you’re lucky enough to stumble upon some at your local garden center, buy them and get them in the ground as soon as possible because they can dry out easily.
Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, under trees and shrubs, and in lawn
Early to bloom, snowdrops are January’s birthflower.
Snowflake (Leucojum vernum)
Snowflakes are similar to snowdrops in how early they bloom, although they have six equal-length petals and are a much rarer bulb to come by. They love moist soil and are perfect planted beside a pond or water garden. These are well-suited for the rainy winter conditions of my Vancouver garden.
USDA zone: 3-8
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flower colour: white
Flowering period: February – March
Average plant height: 8 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 5 inches
Light requirements: partial shade
Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, under shrubs and trees, and as cut flowers
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Snowflakes naturalize easily in the garden.
Dutch Hyacinth (Hyacinthus spp.)
Dutch hyacinths are not only gorgeous with their tightly clustered bell-shaped flowers in many colours options, but they also have the most heavenly perfume!
In the Victorian era, hyacinths were revered for their scent. It was common to devote an entire garden to these fragrant flowers alone. Plant in full sun or partial shade and they will bloom in early spring.
USDA zone: 4-8
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flower colour: red, pink, orange, salmon, yellow, purple, white and blue
Flowering period: March – April
Average plant height: 10 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 6 inches
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Landscape uses: beds and borders
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. In the right conditions, hyacinths can be perennial bulbs.
Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum)
Grape hyacinths are not at all related to Dutch hyacinths; they are the Muscari genus, which has about 30 different species. While they are all prolific bulbs that naturalize easily, the colours can range from white to deep blue and, of course, grape-purple.
Muscari look beautiful when planted in rivers through gardens, and they do extremely well in containers. The individual blooms may be diminutive, but grown together they are absolutely stunning. They’re part of my flower bulb lawn!
Grape hyacinths bloom longer than most other spring flowering bulbs too. They make a great cut flower, they provide an early nectar source for pollinators (except for the double ones) and they are deer and rabbit resistant.
USDA zone: 4-8
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flower colour: blue, purple or white
Flowering period: March-May, depending on the species
Average plant height: 4 – 10 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 5 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 8 cm
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, and under shrubs and trees
Grape hyacinth may not be tall, but they naturalize and last a long time in the garden compared to other bulbs.
Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris)
Fritillariameleagris is sometimes called Checkered Lily or Snake Lily. It looks exotic with its downward-facing, bell-shaped flowers in purple and white checkers.
It does well in the shade and thrives in moist soil. I visited a woodland garden where it naturalized easily, and the masses of checkers beneath the mossy trees were picture-perfect. Fritillaria blooms in mid-spring.
USDA zones: 3-8
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flower colour: purple or white
Flowering period: April – May
Average plant height: 10 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, lawns, under trees and shrubs, and perennial beds
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. These bulbs are usually sold in mixed colours.
Imperial Fritillaria (Fritillaria imperialis)
Imperial Fritillaria is every bit as weird to plant as it is to enjoy in the garden. The bulbs are large, and they do not smell good, so you will want to get them planted as soon as they arrive.
This also keeps them from getting damaged if the roots begin to sprout. They have a distinctive musky smell when blooming, which isn’t for everyone but that scent deters moles, deer, and squirrels. I personally enjoy planting them because they look like they are wearing crowns.
USDA zones: 4-8
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flower colour: yellow, orange-red and red
Flowering period: April – May
Average plant height: 40 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 12 inches
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade (some shade is particularly important in warmer climatic zones)
Landscape uses: perennial beds and borders
This is one of the earliest plants to be cultivated.
Oxalis (Oxalis adenophylla)
Oxalis are lovely plants for both foliage and flowers. Known as Silver Shamrocks, they have pretty clover-like leaves and pink blooms. In the right conditions they are trouble-free plants that naturalize easily, resist pests and disease, and are even deer and rabbit proof. They are happy in sun or part shade, as long as there is excellent drainage. Rock gardens and pots are perfect for oxalis.
USDA zones: 4-9
Type of bulb: tuber
Flower colour: pink
Flowering period: June – July
Average plant height: 3 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Landscape uses: borders and rock gardens
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Oxalis originally comes from Chili and Argentina.
Dutch Iris (Iris × hollandica)
Dutch Iris produces elegant, deep blue or purple flower heads atop long, slender stalks, creating a stunning display that’s not to be missed. In Greek mythology, the goddess Iris represented the link between heaven and earth, and it’s no wonder these heavenly flowers bear her name now. Plant in a sunny area in early fall. Irises attract pollinators and make beautiful cut flowers.
USDA zones: 6-9
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flowering colour: deep and light blue, purple, yellow and white
Flowering period: June – July
Average plant height: 24 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 6 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 10
Light requirement: full sun
Landscape uses: beds, borders, and as cut flowers
They also do well when grown in containers.
Crocus (Iridaceae spp.)
Crocuses are a member of the iris family and one of the first flowers to bloom in the spring. They are beautiful and can be planted in the garden bed or directly in the lawn for a meadowy look (they’ll start to die back by the time the lawn comes in enough to need mowing).
They are also wonderful for layering in beds or pots above other bulbs or perennials, as they provide early blooms and die back just as the later flowers begin to sprout. In addition to providing colourful early spring blooms in purple, white, and yellow, crocus is a beneficial source of pollen for our bee friends.
USDA zones: 3-9
Type of bulb: corm
Flower colour: yellow, white, purple, striped and bronze
Flowering period: February – March
Average plant height: 3 – 8 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 1 inch
Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, in lawns, under shrubs and trees, and for indoor forcing
Scatter crocus and plant where they fall for a naturalized look.
Ornamental Onion (Alliums spp.)
Ok, I’ll admit, I’m addicted to alliums! These powerhouses are gorgeous and unique ornamentals and tasty edibles, and some varieties have sculptural seed heads that can be dried and used as striking home décor. For more information, see this Essential Guide to Alliums.
USDA zones: 3-9
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flower colour: white, purple, pink, burgundy
Flowering period: April – June
Average plant height: 10 – 68 inches
Planting depth to base of bulb: varies, follow species instructions
Spacing between bulbs: varies, follow species instructions
Light requirements: full sun
Landscape uses: perennial gardens, borders, fresh-cut and dried
Even once done blooming, the unique seed heads provide some garden beauty.
Anemone (Anemone coronaria)
During the nineteenth century in Europe, people believed that anemone flowers would ward off bad luck, so planting these might just bring you luck and will certainly yield a ton of beauty in the garden.
Anemones are hardworking plants with flowers in striking, deep jewel tones. They produce many blooms from each tuber so they are a great cutting flower that just keeps going from spring to summer. Tip: soak the tubers for a couple of hours before planting.
USDA zones: 7-10
Type of bulb: tuber
Flower colour: blue, red, white, pink
Flowering period: May-August
Average plant height: 12 – 16 inches
Planting depth to base of bulbs: 2 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
Light requirements: sun or light shade in a sheltered spot (afternoon sun)
Landscape uses: border, beds, pots
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Anemones are also sometimes called windflowers.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.)
The sunny yellow trumpets of daffodils are a symbol of spring season change and look striking when planted en masse.
Before you pass by this beauty as too common, it’s worth having a look at some of the gorgeous varieties that show why the Narcissus species was aptly named after the Greek god known for his beauty. Check out the ruffled blooms of double daffodils as well as unique colours like “Westward,” “Pink Wonder,” “Tahiti,” and “Sorbet.” See my full daffodil guide here.
USDA zones: 3-8
Type of bulb: true bulb
Flower colour: white, yellow, orange, red and pink
Flowering period: February – May
Planting depth to base of bulb: large bulbs: 8 inches; small bulbs: 5 inches
Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches for large bulbs; 1 inch for small bulbs
Light requirements: full sun to full shade
Landscape uses: Daffodils are suitable for almost every possible application: fields, beds, containers, borders, rock gardens, as cut flowers, and for forcing.
Daffodils come in many hues and combinations of yellow, cream, and orange.
Spring Flowering Bulb FAQ
Can I plant bulbs that have sprouted already?
Bulbs that have already sprouted can still be planted. They’ve likely been left out a little longer and are reacting to the warm conditions. They will pop up just fine in the spring. Plant as indicated, roughly three times the size of the bulb deep.
When should I plant spring flowering bulbs?
Spring flowering bulbs should be planted in the fall, beginning in mid-September to mid-December, depending on where you live. You want to ensure they’re in the ground before it freezes. Typically once you buy them, you should plant them shortly after.
Should I water the bulbs after I plant them?
You should immediately water spring flowering bulbs after planting them. This will encourage the plant to grow roots and get them established before the cold temperatures arrive. Bulbs planted in pots should also be watered afterward, and continued to be watered until the soil dries out in the pots quickly.
Lilies are one of the most popular garden and cutting flowers, and for good reason! These versatile bulbs are easy to grow and can easily naturalize in the garden, returning year after year. If you want to add these bulbs to your garden, here’s what you need to know about how to grow lilies.
Lilies are one of the most versatile summer bulbs out there. They come in pretty well any colour under the rainbow, many with speckles and ombre hues. And the fragrance! Boy, when you get a fragrant variety, they do not disappoint.
Lilies are also one of the hardiest summer bulbs, acting as perennials and naturalizing in most gardens they’re planted in.
Because lilies are so popular and vast, there’s often quite a bit of confusion over what constitutes a lily. For instance, calla lilies, canna lilies, and lily of the valley are all not true lilies (read more about true lilies here).
This post will cover what you need to know about how to grow true lilies and get a wave of beautiful colour year after year.
Sponsored post: thank you thank you to flowerbulb.eu for sponsoring this post on how to grow lilies. I love working with them because they have the simple goal of encouraging people to grow flower bulbs in their garden. Go to flowerbulb.eu for inspiration and education!
Meet the Lily Flower
Few flowers come as bold and versatile as the lily. Summer bulbs tend to provide brilliant splashes of colour, and lilies do not disappoint. They come in any colour you can think of, sometimes with spotted patterns and contrasting colours.
Most lilies bloom from June to August, but you can get flowers as early as May and as late as September for some varieties.
Lilies have been cultivated for thousands of years. Some of the first mentions of lilies date back to 4,000 years ago. The Greeks particularly loved lilies, including pictures of them on their ceramics.
Artifacts with lilies have been found from the ancient Minoan culture of Crete. Also popular in China and Japan, they’ve been used as a dining room centrepiece flower for centuries.
Native to the northern hemisphere, lilies often grow naturally in mountainous regions. They grow best in Zones 5-8, though there are lilies that can handle conditions as low as Zone 3 and zones as high as Zone 9.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.
Lily Plant and Care Guide
Planting Instructions
When planting lilies, your best bet is to follow the instructions on the packaging. Since there are many different types of lilies out there, they all will have slightly different planting instructions.
That being said, here are some general planting instructions you can follow. The lily is a true bulb, slightly rounded in shape with a somewhat pointed top. Most lilies should be planted with the roots facing down and the “pointy” end up, about 6 inches deep.
Space your lilies 12 inches apart if you’re planting multiple bulbs. Mix in some compost when planting.
You can plant your lilies in early-to mid autumn, as well as mid-spring once the threat of frost has passed. If planting in autumn, add a layer of mulch to insulate the bulbs during the winter and suppress weeds come spring.
Sunlight Requirements
Lilies thrive in full sun, ideally getting between 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. When they have too much shade, they will try to seek it out, getting spindly and falling over in the process.
Lilies like to have cool feet, AKA they want shade on the lower half of the stem. To do this, ensure there are some ground cover plants that will shelter the base of the lily, or place some other short annuals around the base.
Lilies also pair exceptionally well with perennials since they act the same and will return the following year. I really love them with ferns!
Lilium martagon ‘Peppard Gold’
Water
Lilies like well-drained soil, as water trapped beneath the surface can rot the bulb. If you have poor soil, mixing in compost is a good idea to improve it.
Once the lily bulbs emerge in the spring, you can begin to water them. I only water mine if we’re having a noticeable spring drought, otherwise, we get enough moisture for the lilies to do fine on their own.
Lilium auratum ‘Cacharel’
Soil
Besides needing good drainage, lilies aren’t too picky about their soil. Most will prefer acidic to neutral soil, but there are a few noticeable varieties, such as Madonna lilies, that prefer alkaline soils. You can perform a pH test on your garden following these instructions.
There is no need to fertilize lilies that are planted in the garden. Just adding a layer of compost on top of the soil here and there is all your lily needs for nutrients.
‘Netty’s Pride’ Photo Courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.
Planting Lilies in Pots
Lilies are known to grow exceptionally well in pots. Of course, the pots must be big enough to accommodate the lily, especially since we plant them about 6 inches deep. A pot that is 12-16 inches tall is good…and don’t forget one with drainage holes!
Only plant low-growing lily cultivars in pots, especially if it will be in a windy place. Keep it below cultivars that are 30 inches tall or lower. Many Asiatic varieties are good for pots.
Each stalk will produce multiple blooms.
Using Lilies as Cut Flowers
You can have lilies from June to August, depending on what variety you grow. Out of the many types of lilies, Asiatic, oriental, and lilium longiflorum (Easter lilies) are some of the more popular cut flowers.
Asiatic lilies are the first to bloom. Because they grow upward and really stand out in a bouquet, they are the most common lily grown commercially for cut flowers.
Oriental lilies are well known for being very fragrant, easily filling up a room with their scent from just one bloom. They also create some of the grandest lily blooms.
Lilies are known for being a long-lasting cut flower, blooming for up to ten days once in the vase.
Lily pollen is messy, and can stain tables or counters. So once the lily blooms, use a tissue to remove or cut off the pollen anthers.
Lilium ‘Black Beauty’
Caution: Lilies and Cats
Once upon a time, I had the most magnificent lily. The gorgeous ‘Black Beauty’ (shown above) was given to me as bulbs by a dear friend. She was so happy in my garden that she grew into a mammoth that must have neared ten feet high in her prime.
But unfortunately, I had to dig them all up.
But why, you ask? Well, it’s because my family expanded to include this guy.
Keep lilies away from cats!
If you haven’t my handsomely dressed cat yet, that’s Magic. And lilies are extremely toxic to cats. Even just a lick of the pollen on their fur can make them severely ill.
So, as much as I loved those beautiful lilies, I love Magic more. It was time to say goodbye to my lily arch. Just look at how much pollen can be on lilies!
Since I couldn’t transplant her until the end of the growing season, I had to go out every day and hand-cut the pollen from the stems the first year I had Magic. I admired my lily every day knowing she wouldn’t be in the garden next year.
While she’s now long gone and has a new home, I still hold an affinity for lilies. Any time I see them in a passing garden, I always stop to admire them. I will grow them again in my garden just as I did for the 10 years before I had a cat.
For centuries, lilies have captivated the hearts of gardeners. A cultivated plant as old and versatile as the lily means there are so many types of lilies to choose from. Today, I’m breaking down the many types of lilies out there so you can find the perfect lily flower for your garden.Plus, don’t miss my amazing giveaway at the end of the post!
Once upon a time, I had the most magnificent lily. The gorgeous ‘Black Beauty’ (shown below) was given to me as bulbs by a dear friend. She was so happy in my garden that she grew into a mammoth that must have neared ten feet high in her prime.
But unfortunately, I had to dig them all up.
Lilium ‘Black Beauty’
But why, you ask? Well, it’s because my family expanded to include this guy.
If you haven’t my handsomely dressed cat yet, that’s Magic. And lilies are extremely toxic to cats. Even just a lick of the pollen on their fur can make them severely ill.
So, as much as I loved those beautiful lilies, I love Magic more. It was time to say goodbye to my lily arch. Just look at how much pollen can be on lilies!
Since I couldn’t transplant her until the end of the growing season, I had to go out every day and hand-cut the pollen from the stems the first year I had Magic. I admired my lily every day knowing she wouldn’t be in the garden next year.
While she’s now long gone and has a new home, I still hold an affinity for lilies. Any time I see them in a passing garden, I always stop to admire them. I will grow them again in my garden just as I did for the 10 years before I had a cat.
Today, I want to celebrate these lovelies and show you the many types of lily flowers out there to enjoy! Plus, I’ll have a very exciting giveaway for you to enter at the end of the post. Here’s what I’ll be covering today:
Special Note: a HUGE thanks to flowerbulb.eu for sponsoring this post. They are one of my favourite partners to work with because they have the simple goal of spreading the love of flower bulbs. Go to Flowerbulb.eu for inspiration and education!
Meet the Lily Flower
Few flowers come as bold and versatile as the lily. Summer bulbs have a tendency to provide brilliant splashes of colour and lilies do not disappoint. They come in any colour you can think of, sometimes with spotted patterns and contrasting colours.
Most lilies bloom from June to August, but you can get flowers as early as May and as late as September for some varieties.
Lilies have been cultivated for thousands of years. Some of the first mentions of lilies date back to 4,000 years ago. The Greeks particularly loved lilies, including pictures of them on their ceramics.
Artifacts with lilies have been found from the ancient Minoan culture of Crete. Also popular in China and Japan, they’ve been used as a dining room centrepiece flower for centuries.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu
Types of Lilies
Below, you might not see some of your favourite “lilies”. While many flowers have lily in the title, they are not actually considered lilies. This includes cannas, Callas, daylilies, water lilies, and lily of the valley. True lilies are those belonging to the Lilium family.
Of the true lilies, there are nine divisions, each with its own subdivisions. Every lily falls under one of these divisions. In fact, certain lilies can fall under multiple divisions. To say it can get confusing is an understatement. As you can imagine, there are an incredible number of lilies. This means you can get pretty much any colour of lily under the sun in all sizes and shapes.
In many cases, a lily looks like a lily to the eye, and that’s not a bad thing. You don’t need to know the horticultural division classifications set out by the North American Lily Society or the Royal Horticultural Society to be successful.
In all groups, there are differences in growing height, bloom times, and planting instructions. With your lilies, the best bet is to read the info that comes with the bulbs. But keep reading to get started learning about the main types of lilies you might encounter as a gardener.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu
Asiatic Lily Flower
Lilium asiatica
Many gardeners add Asiatic lilies to their gardens as they’re one of the easier lilies to grow and find. They’re known for having lots of bright colours, ranging from pastels all the way to deep reds. Oftentimes with spotted petals, the flowers really stand out in your garden. The flowers vary in shapes, from simple to curved.
Their straight stems do feature lots of flowers, with 3-6 per stem. The plants range 2-5 ft high and can usually stand on their own without any stakes. Asiatic lilies are one of the first lilies to bloom, sprouting flowers in late spring and early summer. They live long and are vigorous growers, enjoying a long bloom season of around one month.
Unlike most of the other lilies, you won’t get any fragrance from Asiatic lilies. They’re also a favourite for deer and rabbits, so make sure to keep them in an area of the garden they can’t get to.
Plant your Asiatic lilies in spring or fall in full sun or part shade. They do well in most soil types, preferring well-drained soil with plenty of nutrients.
For low-growing cultivars, look at the ‘Horizon’ (orange), ‘India’ (red), ‘Paulus Potter’ (white with red center), and ‘Admiration’ (cream-white). Other notable cultivars include ‘Connecticut King’ (yellow), ‘Monta Rosa’ (pink), ‘Roma’ (creamy-white), ‘Enchantment’ (orange), ‘Alaska’ (white), and ‘Gran Paradiso’ (red).
Oriental Lily Flower
Lilium orientalis
Out of all the lilies, oriental lilies have the most to say. These dramatic flowers can be as large as a dinner plate and have ruffled edges. The flower petals are much larger than Asiatic lilies and open up completely, showing off spots and other vibrant patterns.
They grow tall, 2-5 feet and often need stakes to support their large blooms. These lilies are the last to bloom, emerging in late summer from August to September.
Everything about them is bold. Their rich colours typically include red, purple, pink, and white. They produce heavy amounts of pollen that need clipping if brought inside. And their delightful fragrance goes unmatched!
Oriental cultivars are more tolerant and even thrive in cooler regions. They can handle most soil conditions.
One of the most popular cultivars of lilies ever, the ‘Star Gazer,’ has pink flowers with white edges and dark spots. A popular cut flower, it lasts long, has an amazing fragrance, and faces upwards for easy admiring.
Other popular cultivars include ‘Mr. Ed’ (white with red speckles), ‘Miss America’ (light pink), ‘Miss Germany’ (pink with a light red star), and ‘My Romance’ (dark pink). Other notable cultivars include ‘Marco Polo’ (white with a light pink edge), ‘Mona Lisa’ (pink), and ‘Casa Blanca’ (white), and the ‘Roselily Felicia’ pictured below.
Oriental Lily, ‘Roselily Felicia’. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu
Martagon Lily
Lilium martagon
If bountiful numbers are your thing, try growing martagon lilies! More commonly known as Turk’s cap lilies, these flowers can grow up to 6 feet tall and contain a dozen or more blooms per stem. In fact, you may see upwards of 50 flowers per stem if you’re lucky.
One of the most difficult lilies to grow, they are well worth the effort. You’ll often find them in yellow, orange, dark red, white, pink, and light purple with spots. They have much smaller flowers that face downward with curved petals.
Turk’s cap lilies bloom in early to mid-summer from May to June. They work as wonderful border plants. With slender stems, they grow 3-6 ft tall.
Plant them in the fall for May or June flowers. Out of all the lilies, these are the most shade-tolerant. They enjoy slightly alkaline and well-drained soil. It may take them a year or so to adjust to your garden, but they will thrive for many years once established.
Popular cultivars include ‘Arabian Knight’ (fragrant, golden with mahogany spots), ‘Manitoba Morning’ (pinkish-red with mahogany spots), and ‘Scarlet Morning’ (orange blossoms with mahogany spots).
Trumpet Lily
Also known as Aurelian lilies, these flowers never fail to produce a multitude of flowers. On each stem, you can get anywhere from 12-15 blooms on average. The flowers are quite fragrant with a heavy, sweet smell, so you’ll surely get enjoyment every time you pass by these beauties.
Most of the flowers will have contrasting colours in white, yellow, orange, and pink shades. The waxy, trumpet-shaped flowers are 6-10 inches long and either face upward or form a bowl shape.
Unlike most of the other lilies, they are not frost-hardy and should be planted once the threat of frost has passed. But they’re fairly easy to grow as long as they’re planted in a sunny location and kept moist.
Because of their later planting, you can expect blooms in mid to late summer. They have a long flowering period thanks to second or third buds.
Common trumpet lilies include the Lilium longiflorum (known as the Easter lily with pure white flowers), Lilium regale (pink outside, white inside, and yellow throats), and the Lilium leucanthum (curved petals and noticeable stamens).
Orienpet Lily
When you cross oriental and trumpet lilies, you get orienpet lilies! As with any good crossover, you get the best traits of each of the parents. Orienpet lilies are brilliant and bold like oriental lilies yet have the colour and abundance of trumpet lilies. This makes them one of the all-time favourites for home gardeners.
You’ll find orienpet lilies in white, red, yellow, orange, and pink. The flowers are waxy and slightly curved and bloom towards the end of the gardening season. Orienpet lily flowers are also heavily fragranced.
As a hybrid, they are much more drought, heat, cold, and disease tolerant than their parent plants. With heavy stems, they are quite sturdy and up to 3-8 ft tall.
Popular orienpet lilies include my beloved ‘Black Beauty’, ‘Flashpoint (bright pink flowers with white edges and bold fragrance), ‘Gluhwein’ (soft peach with red and pink tones and a golden throat), ‘Belladonna’ (cheerful yellow with large bowl-shaped flowers).
Orienpet Lily. Lilium ‘Solange’. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.
Wild and Species Lily
These lilies are the start of it all so they’re worth a mention! These lilies are any native species found in the temperate areas of North America, Europe, and Asia. All cultivars are bred from these flowers.
In the wild, they propagate from seed. However, species lilies can be difficult for home gardeners to grow despite flourishing on their own without human help. If you’re lucky to live where they are native, then they’ll feel right at home and will easily grow. It’s quite a treat to have such gorgeous native plants!
Notable species and wild lilies include the Canada Lily (Lilium canadense), tiger lily (Lilium lancifolium), Henry’s lily (Lilium Henryi), Madonna lily (Lilium candidum), and golden-rayed lily (Lilium auratum).
Tips for Planting Lilies
Lily flowers come from true bulbs and should be planted either in the fall four weeks before the first frost date or early in spring once the ground becomes workable. Space each bulb 12 inches apart and 6 inches deep. To avoid bulb rot, make sure to plant them in well-draining soil.
You can also plant lilies in pots, but they must be a low-growing variety. Make sure the pot is deep enough, around 12-16 inches. Pair with good potting soil for proper drainage.
Lilies can grow in partial shade but prefer full sun. Since they like ‘cold feet,’ try to add plants to shade the lower part of the plant from the afternoon sun. They work well paired with perennials and will provide bursts of summer colour after the spring shrub blooms.
Tall lilies may need staking to stay upright. Consider planting your bulbs in an area sheltered from strong winds. While growing, give them plenty of water and fertilize every two weeks until the flower has finished blooming.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu
Frequently Asked Questions About Lilies
What does the lily flower symbolize?
Lilies are one of the most popular bouquet flowers and are used to represent many different meanings. For Christians, they are a strong symbol of purity. They’re also very common flowers used in condolence and sympathy bouquets, representing life and remembrance.
That said, they come in many different colours and can be used for all kinds of arrangements.
Do lilies bloom every year?
Lilies are a perennial bulb, with most being hardy in zones 4-9. They need a period of cold where the bulb can recharge and emerge again next summer.
Most lilies will bloom for about 2-3 weeks out of the year. Plant different lilies with early, mid-season, and late bloom times to get lily flowers nearly all summer long.
Do lily flowers multiply?
Most lilies will naturalize and form a large clump of flowers. Lilies should be divided every 2-3 years, where you can split the clump into multiple flowers. Who doesn’t love free plants?!
‘Netty’s Pride’ Photo Courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu
Lily Bulb Giveaway!
If you want to add some beautiful lilies to your garden, be sure to enter my giveaway on Instagram! In partnership with flowerbulb.eu, I’ll be giving away $100 worth of lily bulbs to one lucky winner.
You’ll find all the rules and details on how to enter there. The giveaway closes on May 31st, 2024.
In place of the annual tulip-mania that strikes at this time each spring, there have been discontented rumblings amongst growers and gardeners this year. All is not well in the world of tulips. Cries of “less is more” from formerly ardent maximalists, whose pots used to be bulging with a kaleidoscopic mix of vibrant tulips, have dotted social media. Why the fuss about this much-loved bulb? Read on to find out.
Photography by Clare Coulson, unless otherwise noted.
Above: The Lime Walk at Sissinghurst Castle, where tulips are the main event in April; here, they are displayed in large pots with a carpet of spring bulbs underneath.
A perfect storm of conditions have lately come to plague the tulip—quite literally in the case of tulip fire, a fungal disease (Botrytis tulipae) that attacks bulbs. The blight causes distorted or spotted leaves and ugly spots on the flowers. And it can go on to contaminate the soil. If your plants have it, it’s important to be rigorous about hygiene: Pull the affected bulbs and do not dispose of them on the compost heap where the fungus can flourish. Gardeners should also avoid replanting tulips in the area for the following three years. Similarly, if potted bulbs have been affected, remove and dispose of the bulbs (and later the compost, too) and make sure that you the clean pots very well at the end of the season.
Above: Tulips and narcissi in pots in the author’s garden.
Climate change is exacerbating the problem—in areas where there are no longer prolonged periods of cold during winter, it’s more likely that disease can flourish. (For tulips proper winter cold is an essential part of the lifecycle.) Very wet springs also contribute to the spread of disease.
Above: No other spring bulbs provide quite the pop of color as the tulip, available in endless colors and shapes. Here ‘Dream Touch’, ‘Copper Image’, ‘Vovos’, and ‘Palmyra’ work well with perennial wallflowers.
It’s not just the fungus. Tulips are a big investment and they’ve gotten more expensive. In my garden my annual spend on bulbs is far, far greater than the total of all other seeds, plants, and any other garden kit throughout the whole year. And in many cases those expensive tulip bulbs will not re-flower after the first season, especially if they’ve been grown in pots. At a time when we are all thinking far more about the choices we make and their impact on the planet, it all feels quite wasteful.
Above: Historic tulips also tend to be more perennial than many of the annual flowering tulips. ‘Malaika’ is a stunning historic tulip that is almost impossible to find for sale.
And then there is the constant threat from wildlife. Friends this spring have had their entire tulip crop dug up by mice, swiped by squirrels, or munched by passing deer, who seem particularly adept at eating just the flower bud and leaving the ugly (and useless) bare stem.
Above: The stunning Tulipa turkestanica photographed by Britt Willoughby Dyer for Polly Nicholson’s The Tulip Garden.
A bulb lawn is one of the most beautiful ways to usher in the spring. A wave of colourful flowers erupts across your lawn, creating a welcome display for your enjoyment and the pollinators after a cold winter. Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
It’s my first fall in my new house, and while I’ve been here for a couple of months now, I still feel like I’m just settling in. I’ve barely scratched the surface of the garden.
So, when flowerbulbs.com offered to send me 1500 bulbs to create a front yard pollinator garden, I leapt at the opportunity.
My front yard space is small, about 600 sq. ft., and very patchy. It currently consists of moss, buttercup, and a bit of turf. And after years of poor drainage and neglect, it’s not level. So you could say that a bulb lawn makeover is very much needed!
Be sure to read all the way to the end because I have a great bulb giveaway for two lucky readers as well!
Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.
Mixing your bulbs together creates a more natural look.
Sponsored Content: Thank you to flowerbulbs.com for sponsoring this post and providing the epic bulb giveaway. Flowerbulbs.com is an amazing resource to help you learn about all the different kinds of bulbs and how to plant them.Be sure to check them out!
What is a Bulb Lawn?
Bulb lawns are exactly what they sound like! You plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall in your lawn, and come early spring, they begin to bloom across your grass. It’s a practice that began in Europe hundreds of years ago and is popular in many botanical gardens today.
Most gardeners choose naturalizing bulbs. These are bulbs that you plant once, and then they return and multiply over the years, such as snowdrops, crocus, and daffodils. Over time, it will slowly cover your lawn into a spectacular display of spring colour.
Front bulb gardens provide many ecological and aesthetic benefits. No matter the type of lawn, it’s easy to start planting bulbs to spruce up an otherwise empty space.
The bulbs will provide early-season pollen and nectar for pollinators when little else is blooming. Spring-flowering bulbs are some of the first flowers to awaken, providing lots of colour and texture after a sometimes gloomy winter.
Bulbs in lawns are incredibly low maintenance. After planting, you only need to water them once to help them establish themselves. You don’t mow in the spring, as the flowers bloom. Then, the naturalizing bulbs return on their own, slowly multiplying every following season.
Physically, I have not been doing well lately. I’ve had a flare-up of my disability that has made daily tasks incredibly challenging. So, while I was excited to get these bulbs and plant a front yard pollinator garden, I honestly didn’t know how I would get the job done.
I know many people who read Garden Therapy also struggle with physical and other restraints that keep them from being able to garden. So, it was important to me that I tackle this project and get my own garden therapy while also sharing how I made it easier on myself living through this current flare-up that has really taken me down.
So, first and foremost, I asked for help. I started by calling in some local landscaping friends to see if somebody could come and help me with the planting. And they came through!
Me with my power planter. Power planters are good for planting multiple bulbs.
Preparing for Your Bulb Garden
Before you begin planting, you’ll want to mow your lawn ahead of time so it’s easy to dig into and map out a design.
If you haven’t already grabbed your bulbs, then make sure you get them ASAP before the frost comes and the ground freezes.
For a front yard pollinator garden, make sure to include single flower blooms. Double flower blooms are beautiful, and you can certainly plant some, but pollinators need single flowers.
Here is the mixture that I ended up planting:
100 Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops”
200 Anemone “Blanda”
50 Chionodoxa luciliae “Alba”
100 Dwarf iris “Alida”
100 Dwarf iris “J.S.Dyt”
100 Dwarf iris “Louise”
100 Snowdrops “Floreo Plena”
400 Muscari
200 Crocus Large Mix
200 Tulips
Make Your Design
My front yard is a small south-facing space. In front, there are two large trees on the city property, plus a 3-foot tall fence surrounding the yard.
With my friends, we chatted through some design ideas. I originally wanted to do a muscari river through the centre of the lawn and then plant a mixture of low-growing bulbs to naturalize on either side of the river.
But there were two big challenges with this plan. First, I thought it would look slightly contrived in the front yard. Two gates come into the yard; one gate has a pathway that goes into the backyard, while the other has a pathway to the front door. With a muscari river between those two paths, it wouldn’t have the natural flow I was looking for.
The second challenge was that lots of digging would be involved to get 1500 bulbs in the front yard. In my previous stinzen planting project at my rental house, we used a power planter to drill holes for all the bulbs individually.
If I did that for this project, I would have 1500 holes in the yard, and that just didn’t seem like the right strategy for such a small space.
So here’s what we did…
Use a large container to mix up your bulbs easily.
Mixed Bulb Pockets
To achieve the naturalized look I wanted, we decided to do little pockets of mixed bulbs throughout the lawn. We mixed all the bulbs together to create a much more natural appearance.
When planning out your design, you want to ensure you can still access the garden if you need to. You also want to place them in a low-traffic area so the bulbs aren’t disturbed when blooming.
For my pocket design, you can still walk across the lawn between all the bulbs that will grow like lily pads popping up in the spring.
This design also allowed me to level the lawn. We found small natural depressions in the lawn (like the heart shape below) and lifted the soil. Once we placed the bulbs, we could put chunks of the lawn on top. This helped to lift the area so that the lawn is now semi-graded.
When planting a bulb garden, you want to try to place it in full sun. While the bulbs can grow in partial shade, they thrive with lots of spring sunlight.
This natural heart shape was a depression in the lawn. Digging it up will help level my lawn. I added more soil to this sunken area.
Tulip Border
In my bub garden design, I also included a tulip border. For this, I mixed 4 varieties of tulips in a wave along the fence. You can use spray paint or a hose to help you map out a design. We just went freehand and dug it up. We will see how it looks in the spring!
Here are the varieties of tulips I planted:
“Couleur Cardinal”
“Purple Prince”
“Continental”
“Sunny Prince”
Plant Your Bulbs
Finally, we were ready to plant! With the tulips separate, I mixed together the 1300 remaining bulbs and dug about 20 different-shaped pockets.
With so many bulbs to plant, we didn’t worry about careful placement. We dug down about 6 inches deep into the soil.
I then tossed in a couple of handfuls of bulbs, so it looked like they would fill the space quite nicely. Then, we turned them all around so that the roots were pointed down and the tips up while laughing and shouting, “Bums down!”
Then, we backfilled with the soil and placed the turf back on top. Of course, the turf was falling apart due to the heavy percentage of moss and weeds. Not enough turf roots were there to hold the structure together, so it became a mishmash of placing as many of the puzzle pieces back in as possible and topping the rest off with new soil and seed.
Yes, the lawn won’t look the prettiest after the initial bulb planting, but it does bounce back quickly. I started my project a bit later than I would want the lawn to recover well before winter, but I’m still confident it will look fabulous in the spring!
Make sure your bulbs are planted pointy end facing up and roots down.
A Note on Depth
As you can see, I didn’t fuss too much about the planting depth for all the different bulbs. But typically, you want to plant the bulbs 3X as deep as they are tall.
For instance, daffodil bulbs are 2 inches tall, so you’d plant them 6 inches deep. Meanwhile, you can have really small bulbs that only get planted 2 inches deep.
If you don’t have as many bulbs as me, you can be a little more careful about your planting depths. You can also group the bulbs based on their size when mixing them. This way, you can dig deeper depending on what mix you’re currently planting.
The tulip bulbs were planted in the back border as a colourful spring display.
Repairing the Lawn
After planting, my lawn looked a little patchy, but truly, if you hadn’t seen us plant all those bulbs, you would never have known. I watered my lawn to help settle everything and help establish the bulbs.
Since my lawn needed some TLC in the first place, the next step will be to top the entire lawn with more topsoil and then reseed it. I’ll be seeding my lawn with a mixture of microclover and turf grasses that do well in the shade—even though my lawn is south-facing, it does get a lot of shade because of the structures around it.
Ozzie oversaw all of our design plans and planting 😉
My Methodology
While planting my bulb garden, a friend visited for the weekend. While she doesn’t identify as a gardener, she did agree to help me. Her previous experience with bulbs was buying a package from the garden centre, bringing it home, and letting a couple of years pass. She still has that package, although I broke the news that they were now compost (but most likely dust). She had the best intentions but became overwhelmed by the spacing and location and wasn’t sure how to do it.
When we started planting, she was quite surprised that we dug holes and tossed in our bulbs willy-nilly before adjusting their direction. We didn’t add any bonemeal; instead, we just topped them with soil. I explained that this freestyle planting comes with some experience.
Ok, so I just wrote that I didn’t add any bonemeal. Let me explain. Generally, home gardens have enough phosphorous in our soil, so adding bonemeal isn’t necessary.
Bulb fertilizers are often labelled as ‘bloom boosters’ because the high phosphorous levels encourage plant flowering. If you notice that your container plants aren’t flowering as much as they should be, adding additional phosphorous could be the key to more blooms.
That being said, the ground soil in a home garden probably has adequate amounts of phosphorous. Adding more than the plants need can run off into water systems, creating environmental issues.
Even more concerning is that phosphorous is a finite resource, and humans are consuming it for agricultural purposes at alarming rates. While farmed land may need phosphorous to be replenished, in the home garden, it is only needed when a soil test shows a deficiency or when fertilizing plants in potting soil.
My tulip border along the front fence.
Growing a Natural Lawn
I was very surprised when I lifted the grass to see how healthy the soil was below. It was a beautiful surprise full of microorganisms and some organic matter. It was light and fluffy, dark black, and well-hydrated. What a treat!
Immediately, I was encouraged that this would make a beautiful garden because the soil was so healthy.
Since I garden from a permaculture standpoint, I try to make all my projects regenerative. Topping the soil would encourage plants to grow besides turf and bulbs. Those wild plants are great for the soil, improving the nutrient mixture to help the bulbs flower.
Over the years, I’ll keep adding some nice compost and continue to support the soil health with the addition of microclovers and turf grasses. This will allow a mixture of wild plants, like buttercup, to grow and flower, providing even more pollinator food.
Then, the bulbs in the lawn will become more like a meadow space and naturalize in a way that looks effortless, all while helping out local wildlife.
Bulb Garden Giveaway!
I’ve partnered with flowerbulbs.com to give away a stunning spring flowering bulb mixture perfect for creating a bulb lawn or garden. Not one but TWO lucky garden therapy winners will win $100 worth of bulbs for planting.
To enter the contest, leave a comment down below letting me know which bulbs are your favourite to grow. This contest is open until November 23, 2023, when I will use a random number generator to select the winners. This contest is only open to US residents.
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com
FAQ About Bulb Gardens
When should I plant my bulb lawn?
You want to plant your bulb garden before the first frost and the ground freezes. Here are some recommendations for zones from flowerbulbs.com. Zone 4-5 — September to October Zone 6-7 — October to early November Zone 8-9 — November to early December Zone 10+ — late December to early January
How do I mow a bulb lawn?
In the spring, do not mow. Wait as long as you can until your foliage turns yellow. Then, you can mow normally. You want to avoid mowing until the plant dies, as it needs to gather energy to store in the bulb so it returns the following year. After blooming, your bulb lawn will look like a regular lawn.
How do I stop squirrels from digging up my bulbs?
Squirrels love dirt and loose soil. So, after planting bulbs in lawn, you’ll notice that squirrels might come flocking to your garden. You can peg chicken wire down over your lawn for the first few weeks until the grass appears normal again. You can also sprinkle grass seed over the top to help encourage the grass to fill back in quickly.
Planting at the right depth also means the squirrels might not dig that deep. I have a hard time picturing squirrels digging down 6 inches!
Watch this video to see how I handled the squirrels in my bulb garden last year.
