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Tag: Bleeding Hearts

  • What to read this weekend: The unsettling new horror novel, Persona

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    This book made my skin crawl, but I couldn’t put it down. Persona is an unsettling, at times horrifying, novel that explores identity, isolation, exploitation and human connection under the warping influences of the internet and an economic system that leaves many people struggling just to get by. It reads like a nightmare, with prose that is surreal and disorienting at times, and uncomfortably descriptive at others. It would be hard to get into much of an overview without spoiling some key elements of the story, so I’ll just leave you with a bit of the blurb: “A trans woman discovers pornography of herself she has no memory of making, only to find herself led to an unimaginably deeper evil.”

    Persona plays out in four parts, getting progressively stranger and stranger as it all unfolds. This one’s a must-read, especially if you’re looking for queer horror. But you might want to line up something light for after.

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    Cheyenne MacDonald

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  • How to Propagate Bleeding Hearts from Stem Cuttings

    How to Propagate Bleeding Hearts from Stem Cuttings

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    There are some plants that grow so easily from stem cuttings that from a single parent plant you can propagate an almost unlimited number of clones.

    Along with impatiens, I find bleeding hearts (Lamprocapnos spp. formerly Dicentra spp.) to be some of the easiest garden plants to start via cuttings.

    A horizontal close up of a bleeding heart branch with bright pink blooms down the length of the branch.A horizontal close up of a bleeding heart branch with bright pink blooms down the length of the branch.

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    And unlike starting from seed, the plants propagated with this method will be genetic replicas of the parent.

    If you need a refresher about how to grow bleeding hearts, visit our guide. Or, if you’d like to learn how to propagate bleeding hearts using methods other than stem cuttings our guide has you covered.

    Just because it’s easy to start your plants from stem cuttings, that doesn’t mean you don’t need some knowledge to do it right. This guide will give you the information you need.

    Here are the topics we’ll go over:

    Propagate Bleeding Hearts from Stem Cuttings

    When to Take Cuttings

    You can take stem cuttings anytime, however for best results you should start this project in early spring before any flower buds have developed. 

    If you miss the early spring window of opportunity, those taken in summer can be just as successful, but as summer wanes into fall and the plant starts to die back, there’s a good chance the cuttings won’t survive.

    You don’t need much to take a cutting from a bleeding heart plant.

    A pair of clean pruners or sharp scissors, a clean four- or six-inch container for each stem section you wish to root, a soil-free potting medium, and some rooting hormone, though the latter is optional.

    A vertical photo of a bleeding hearts plant in the spring full of pink blooms.A vertical photo of a bleeding hearts plant in the spring full of pink blooms.

    Rooting hormone encourages a plant to develop roots more quickly, which is helpful.

    The longer a cutting is sitting in the potting medium before developing roots, the greater the chance that it will die or rot before it can become established.

    If you plan to propagate other plants via cuttings, it’s helpful to have some around and it’s extremely cheap.

    A vertical product shot of Bonide Rooting Hormone powder against a white background.A vertical product shot of Bonide Rooting Hormone powder against a white background.

    Bonide Bontone II Rooting Hormone

    Well worth the few dollars you’ll spend. Arbico Organics carries Bontone II rooting hormone in one-and-a-quarter-ounce bottles.

    The Process

    First fill your containers with a seed-starting medium. I can’t tell you how often I’ve taken a few cuttings and then realized that I hadn’t prepared my containers in advance.

    Then it’s a race against time to set it all up before the stems wilt into sad, droopy stems. Don’t do this!

    If you do have to wait a few minutes between taking the cutting and setting it in the container, place the cut end in water to prevent it from drying out.

    Identify a few healthy stems and take a five- to six-inch length using your clippers. The larger the stem the better.

    While you can generally succeed with any stem that is long enough, those with a wide diameter generally give better results. Clip off all but two or three of the top leaves.

    Next, stick your finger in the soil to make a hole. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone if you’re using it and place the cutting about a third of the way deep in the hole.

    It’s important to make the hole first because that way more rooting hormone remains on the cut end of the stem instead of being lost in the soil as you push in the stem.

    Firm the medium up around the stem and give it a spritz of water. You’re not done yet! Soak the soil so that it feels like a well-wrung-out sponge and place the pot in an area that receives bright, indirect light.

    That’s it. Now it’s your job to keep that little beauty alive until it forms roots and you can take it outside.

    Caring for Your Cuttings

    While you wait up to three weeks for roots to develop, you need to support the new bleeding heart plant in its efforts. It’s pretty simple, just try to keep the medium consistently moist.

    If you stick your finger in the medium (not too close to the root zone because you don’t want to disturb it) and it feels like a sponge that you’ve wrung out really well, it’s perfect.

    If it feels soggier, don’t add any water until it dries out a bit. Does it feel dry at all? Add water.

    A little spritz on the foliage now and then with water will be appreciated, as well. Other than that, wait until the plant develops roots before putting it out in the garden.

    Hardening Off and Transplanting

    It’s not always easy to tell if your cutting has developed roots. Sometimes new leaves will develop on the stem, but not always.

    The safest method is to give the cutting a gentle tug and see if it resists. If you feel some resistance, and especially if the bleeding heart is also showing signs of new growth, it’s time to move it outside.

    A horizontal photo of bleeding heart cuttings potted in nursery pots ready to be transplanted.A horizontal photo of bleeding heart cuttings potted in nursery pots ready to be transplanted.

    You can’t just put your plant into the garden right away, though, as it’s used to the calm, comfortable conditions indoors.

    It isn’t ready for the sun, wind, and temperature fluctuations of the real world. Help your little fledgling leave the nest by hardening it off before planting out.

    The process of hardening off is easy. Just pick up the container and take it outside. Place it in a partially shaded, protected area for an hour. Then bring it back in.

    The next day, take it outside again and leave it for two hours. Add an hour each day for the next eight days. Bleeding hearts benefit from at least ten days of hardening off, but 14 is even better.

    Once you’ve hardened your plant off, you can transplant it in its permanent new home.

    If you took your cuttings in mid to late summer, it’s best to keep the baby bleeding hearts indoors and only transplant them out the following spring, after all risk of frost has passed.

    Give Me All Your Lovin’

    That was easy, wasn’t it? Don’t worry if you don’t nail the process on your first try, it can take a while to get the hang of propagation if you’re new to it.

    But my goal with this guide is to help you succeed your first time out like a bleeding heart expert.

    A horizontal photo with white bleeding heart blooms in the foreground set against a soft focus bokeh of greenery.A horizontal photo with white bleeding heart blooms in the foreground set against a soft focus bokeh of greenery.

    What will you do with your new plants? Are you going to grow them in containers on a shady patio? Or bring some color under your favorite trees? Let us know in the comments section below.

    And for more information about how to care for bleeding hearts in your garden, have a read of these guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • The Best Perennials for Transforming Shaded Landscapes

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    Shaded areas in your garden need not be dull and lifeless. With the right choice of perennials, you can transform these dim corners into vibrant and inviting spaces. In this blog post, we will explore the best perennials to grow in shaded landscape areas, including beloved favorites like Hellebore, Hosta, and Astilbe, as well as lesser-known gems like Solomon’s Seal and Trillium.

    1. Hellebore (Helleborus)

    Hellebores, also known as Lenten Roses, are a must-have for shaded gardens. They produce elegant, drooping blooms in a range of colors, from white and pink to deep purples. These hardy perennials thrive in partial shade and add a touch of early spring beauty to your landscape.

    1. Hosta

    Hostas are renowned for their lush foliage, making them perfect for shaded areas. With a variety of leaf shapes, sizes, and colors, you can create a striking contrast in your garden. From the classic green varieties to variegated and blue-hued Hostas, there’s one to suit every taste.

    1. Astilbe

    Astilbes are prized for their feathery, plume-like blooms that rise above their fern-like foliage. They come in shades of pink, red, white, and lavender, brightening up any shaded corner. These perennials thrive in moist, well-drained soil, making them an excellent choice for gardens with challenging growing conditions.

    1. Coral Bells (Heuchera)

    Coral Bells are known for their stunning foliage, available in various shades, from rich burgundy to lime green. They also produce delicate, bell-shaped flowers on tall stalks in late spring and early summer. These adaptable perennials can tolerate both partial shade and full sun.

    1. Brunnera

    Brunnera, often called “Siberian Bugloss,” is prized for its heart-shaped leaves and tiny blue flowers that resemble those of Forget-Me-Nots. These perennials thrive in shade and will form a beautiful ground cover, adding texture and interest to your garden.

    1. Ajuga

    Ajuga, also known as Bugleweed, is an excellent choice for ground cover in shaded areas. Its low, spreading habit and vibrant foliage add a splash of color to even the darkest corners of your garden. In spring, it produces spikes of blue, purple, or white flowers.

    1. Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)

    Oakleaf Hydrangea is a stunning native plant that thrives in shaded locations. It boasts large, showy panicles of white flowers and striking oak-like leaves that turn vibrant shades of red and purple in the fall, adding year-round interest to your garden.

    1. Ligularia

    Ligularia, also known as the “Rocket,” features bold, toothed leaves and tall spikes of yellow or orange daisy-like flowers. These perennials enjoy moist, shady conditions and provide a pop of color in late summer when many other shade plants have finished blooming.

    1. Ferns

    Ferns are the quintessential shade-loving plants. With their graceful, feathery fronds, they add a touch of elegance and a lush, tropical feel to your shaded garden. Varieties like the Japanese Painted Fern and Ostrich Fern are particularly striking choices.

    1. Viola

    Violas, with their cheerful, delicate flowers, are perfect for adding color to shaded areas. These perennials come in a variety of colors and bloom from early spring to fall, creating a continuous display of beauty.

    1. Toad Lily (Tricyrtis)

    Toad Lilies are unique perennials that thrive in the shade. They produce intricate, orchid-like flowers in shades of purple, white, or pink, often speckled with darker markings. These exotic-looking blooms add a touch of whimsy to your garden.

    1. Bleeding Hearts (Dicentra)

    Bleeding Hearts are beloved for their heart-shaped flowers that dangle gracefully from arching stems. These perennials thrive in shade and come in various species and cultivars, each with its own unique charm.

    1. Pulmonaria

    Pulmonaria, or Lungwort, is a shade-loving perennial known for its attractive silver-spotted leaves and clusters of tubular flowers that change color as they mature. They are excellent early bloomers, providing a splash of color in early spring.

    1. Trillium

    Trilliums are native woodland plants known for their distinctive, three-petaled blooms and elegant foliage. They thrive in moist, shaded areas, and their understated beauty adds a touch of the wild to your garden.

    1. Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis)

    Lily of the Valley is a classic perennial that thrives in shady spots. Its dainty, bell-shaped white flowers emit a sweet fragrance that perfumes the air in late spring. These perennials spread quickly, creating a charming ground cover.

    1. Caladium

    Caladiums are renowned for their striking, colorful foliage. These perennials are ideal for adding a tropical vibe to your shaded garden with their large, heart-shaped leaves in shades of red, pink, and green.

    1. Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum)

    Solomon’s Seal is a graceful, arching perennial with distinctive, dangling white or greenish-yellow flowers. Its variegated leaves add an artistic touch to your shaded landscape.

    Transforming shaded landscape areas into thriving gardens is a rewarding endeavor. By choosing the right perennials like Hellebore, Hosta, Astilbe, and others, you can create a stunning, low-maintenance oasis that bursts with color and texture throughout the seasons.

    With these shade-loving perennials in your garden, you’ll enjoy a beautiful and vibrant outdoor space, even in the shadiest of corners.

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    Tiffany

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