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The editors at Eater Chicago dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Wagyu tartare from Trino in West Loop
Chicago’s appetite for steakhouses shows no signs of slowing down, with newcomers continuing to debut at a steady clip. One of the latest arrivals is Trino, a Latin spot in West Loop from chef Stephen Sandoval (Diego, Sueños). While most steakhouses these days stick to the tried-and-true formula, Trino breaks from tradition. Case in point: The exceptional beef tartare, which I almost skipped. It arrives in a tin over a bowl of ice, echoing the elegance of caviar service. The wagyu beef is mixed with tallow aioli, mustard, machaca, rosemary, and a cured yolk, and served alongside house-made chips. I’ve had plenty of tartare, but this one might top them all. Bursting with layers of flavor, it’s a playful reinvention of a steakhouse classic — and I was glad to be dining solo because I did not want to share. 738 W. Randolph Street — Jeffy Mai, Associate Editor, Midwest
Grilled prawns from El Che Steakhouse and Bar in West Loop
My beef-filled week also included a visit to El Che Steakhouse and Bar, chef John Manion’s ode to Argentina’s traditional asados. Opened in 2016, the restaurant recently underwent an interior renovation, but the menu — thankfully — remains as stellar as ever. A wood-burning hearth powers the kitchen, cooking steaks as well as a variety of other offerings. The grilled prawns were a particular standout of the meal. Served halved, they were simply dressed with olive oil, cumin, and a hit of citrus. For a moment, I feared they would be overcooked, which would’ve been a tragedy for such pristine shellfish. Fortunately, one bite erased all doubts and set the tone for the meal. 845 W. Washington Boulevard — J.M.
Sungolds in tucupi from Nic + Junior’s in River North
You know the tomatoes have to be really special for them to be a standout dish at a tasting menu and that was the case for the Sungolds in tucupi (or fermented cassava root broth) at Nic + Junior’s, a new lunch and dinner spot from James Beard semifinalist Junior Borges. It’s not exactly what I expected to become hyperfixated on during a recent trip to Chicago where, yes, I also indulged in tavern-style pizza and wonderful steaks. The tomatoes were so incredibly sweet and expertly peeled, a perfect foil to the tang of the tucupi and earthiness of carefully placed basil blooms. I genuinely wanted to drink the remnants at the bottom of the bowl and would happily eat a full course of just these tomatoes. Although the dinner had many other highlights — including a sweet shrimp in a spicy peanut and curry sauce and a cut of wagyu — I can’t help but go back to the tomatoes. 405 N. Wabash Avenue — Kat Thompson, Audience Editor, Southwest
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Jeffy Mai
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