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Tag: best-dishes

  • The Best Dishes Eater Chicago Editors Ate This Week: August 29

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    The editors at Eater Chicago dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.

    Wagyu tartare from Trino in West Loop

    Chicago’s appetite for steakhouses shows no signs of slowing down, with newcomers continuing to debut at a steady clip. One of the latest arrivals is Trino, a Latin spot in West Loop from chef Stephen Sandoval (Diego, Sueños). While most steakhouses these days stick to the tried-and-true formula, Trino breaks from tradition. Case in point: The exceptional beef tartare, which I almost skipped. It arrives in a tin over a bowl of ice, echoing the elegance of caviar service. The wagyu beef is mixed with tallow aioli, mustard, machaca, rosemary, and a cured yolk, and served alongside house-made chips. I’ve had plenty of tartare, but this one might top them all. Bursting with layers of flavor, it’s a playful reinvention of a steakhouse classic — and I was glad to be dining solo because I did not want to share. 738 W. Randolph Street — Jeffy Mai, Associate Editor, Midwest

    Grilled prawns from El Che Steakhouse and Bar in West Loop

    My beef-filled week also included a visit to El Che Steakhouse and Bar, chef John Manion’s ode to Argentina’s traditional asados. Opened in 2016, the restaurant recently underwent an interior renovation, but the menu — thankfully — remains as stellar as ever. A wood-burning hearth powers the kitchen, cooking steaks as well as a variety of other offerings. The grilled prawns were a particular standout of the meal. Served halved, they were simply dressed with olive oil, cumin, and a hit of citrus. For a moment, I feared they would be overcooked, which would’ve been a tragedy for such pristine shellfish. Fortunately, one bite erased all doubts and set the tone for the meal. 845 W. Washington Boulevard J.M.

    Sungolds in tucupi from Nic + Junior’s in River North

    You know the tomatoes have to be really special for them to be a standout dish at a tasting menu and that was the case for the Sungolds in tucupi (or fermented cassava root broth) at Nic + Junior’s, a new lunch and dinner spot from James Beard semifinalist Junior Borges. It’s not exactly what I expected to become hyperfixated on during a recent trip to Chicago where, yes, I also indulged in tavern-style pizza and wonderful steaks. The tomatoes were so incredibly sweet and expertly peeled, a perfect foil to the tang of the tucupi and earthiness of carefully placed basil blooms. I genuinely wanted to drink the remnants at the bottom of the bowl and would happily eat a full course of just these tomatoes. Although the dinner had many other highlights — including a sweet shrimp in a spicy peanut and curry sauce and a cut of wagyu — I can’t help but go back to the tomatoes. 405 N. Wabash Avenue — Kat Thompson, Audience Editor, Southwest

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    Jeffy Mai

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  • The Best Dishes Eater Chicago Editors Ate This Week: August 22

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    The editors at Eater Chicago dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.

    Uni rice from Mister Tiger in West Town

    At a time when large restaurant groups dominate the scene, Mister Tiger’s success as a family-run venture feels especially refreshing. The Korean spot opened in West Town earlier this year and has distinguished itself as one of the city’s best newcomers. The menu balances homey staples such as japchae, chive pancakes, and spicy tofu stew with more luxurious options like uni rice — which I ordered on a visit this past week. A bowl of sizzling rice comes beautifully topped with uni, tobiko, kimchi, pickles, and veggies. Mix it all up for a comforting side dish that has layers of flavors. Even my dining companion, who is usually staunchly opposed to leftovers, agreed to take what little remained home. Pair the rice with the woodae galbi for a most memorable combination. — Jeffy Mai, Associate Editor, Eater Midwest

    Guacamole tatemado from Matilda in River North

    When is guac not just guac? When it’s the guacamole tatemado at Matilda, a new Mexican Peruvian spot in River North. I’ve tried the avocado dip in nearly every way imaginable, even prepared tableside, but Matilda still somehow surprised me. A fire-roasted avocado has its pit removed and is stuffed with ají amarillo and pico de gallo. It arrives at the table in acevichada sauce with herb ash, and the server mashes everything down to a smooth spread. Accompanied by house-made chips, the dish offers a playful, creative twist on a classic — an approach found throughout much of the menu. It’s a fantastic starter, and you shouldn’t let the straightforward description keep you from ordering it. — J.M.

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    Jeffy Mai

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  • The Best Dishes Eater Chicago Editors Ate This Week: August 15

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    The editors at Eater Chicago dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.

    The crew behind Perilla, the contemporary Korean restaurant in River West, have been hard at work the last two years. In 2024, they opened a steakhouse in the Loop and earlier this year, introduced a 21-seat hand roll bar in the space underneath Perilla. While omakase experiences continue to pop up all over town, dedicated hand roll restaurants are much rarer. After just one visit, though, I can say Noriko has set the bar high. There are a variety of hand roll choices, from classics like spicy tuna and king salmon to premium delicacies such as A5 wagyu topped with freshly shaved truffles. They’re all stellar but my favorite bite was the bluefin toro — fatty tuna belly with pickled wasabi, seasoned soy sauce, and osetra caviar (an optional, yet highly recommended, upgrade). Rich and oh-so-decadent, the roll is a definite “treat-yourself” luxury, which in times like these is something we all need every now and then. — Jeffy Mai, Associate Editor, Eater Midwest

    Laotian cuisine, outside of services like Laos to Your House, has been more or less nonexistent in Chicago until the recent arrival of a tiny Irving Park restaurant. Featuring a tight menu that blends Laotian and Thai staples, Lao Der is one of the best new spots in town. Even on a hot summer day, I couldn’t resist ordering the khao piek sen — Laotian chicken noodle soup. The comforting bowl of chicken broth (I also added chili oil for some spice) teeming with rice noodles, chicken, chicken meatballs, onions, cilantro, and fried shallots was just what I needed after a long day. The friendly and attentive staff are happy to walk you through all of the offerings, but as for me, I can’t wait to return on a cold day for more chicken noodle soup. — J.M.

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    Jeffy Mai

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  • Crab Rangoon Isn’t a Joke at These Chicago Restaurants

    Crab Rangoon Isn’t a Joke at These Chicago Restaurants

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    Crab rangoon can be a polarizing menu item, but a new crop of chefs and diners are embracing the Chinese American staple in Chicago and beyond.

    The fried wonton wrappers are normally filled with some ratio of cream cheese and imitation crab, then served with some variant of duck sauce. Its origins aren’t well defined, with the most accepted narrative being it was invented in the ‘40s or ‘50s in the kitchen of Trader Vic’s, the famous Polynesian and tiki bar chain that had a Chicago outpost until 2011 in Gold Coast. There’s not a ton written about the appetizer’s origins. Most scouring the Internet will be taken to a 2019 story in Atlas Obscura.

    In 2022, crab Rangoon broke through to social media thanks to a series of TikTok posts made over the years by a Rangoon superfan. The item’s name is derived from a city in Myanmar. Yangon is the largest city in the South Asian country.

    Though not a prime example of gourmet cooking, a handful of chefs are dressing the item up using premium ingredients. Some may not take the Rangoon seriously, but the item is enjoying a surge in popularity. And with Lunar New Year approaching (the Year of the Dragon starts on Saturday, February 10) here’s a trio of restaurants offering their unique takes.

    Lobster Rangoon from Duck Inn
    The Duck Inn

    Kevin Hickey reveres Chicago’s Chinatown and he grew up nearby in Bridgeport. For the last nine years, the chef and owner of the Duck Inn has celebrated Lunar New Year. It’s the only time they change how they prepare the restaurant’s signature duck, prepping it Beijing-style for the holiday. Hickey reasons that many of his customers are part of the Chinese community. Up until Saturday, February 10, the Duck Inn will offer lobster-filled Rangoon. They come with a pomegranate sweet & sour and optional chili crunch.

    The Rangoon Royale served at Bixi Beer in Logan Square is like the Mercedes Benz of the Rangoon circuit. Chef and owner Bo Fowler gave in to her staff’s request for the item and created a souped-up version of the appetizer. Fowler, who was also the mastermind behind Owen & Engine, does not like to skimp on premium ingredients, sourcing from some of the Midwest’s best farmers. After much experimentation, uses a thicker wonton wrapper and fills it with lobster, crawfish, lump crab meat, and snow crab. Instead of cream cheese, she whips cream by hand for a mousse-like texture. She put the item on the menu and didn’t think customers would want a $20 order of fancy crab rangoon. She was wrong, and behind the burger, it’s Bixi’s No. 2-selling item: “I didn’t think they would sell at that price, but they sold like crazy,” she says.

    Perfect with one of the beers brewed on the premises, the Rangoon Royale is a permanent menu item at Bixi.

    Chef Henry Cai wanted an appetizer to complement the more American items on the menu of his Chinese American restaurant, something to pair with his burger and chicken sandwiches. He dipped into the nostalgia vault for memories of growing up in America with an immigrant family, seeing kids eat Tontino Pizza Rolls and Hot Pockets, and begging his parents to buy those products for him.

    In January, he unveiled the Pizza Rangoon, a superior version of what he wanted in his youth. Unlike Hot Pockets, the crusts aren’t soggy. The wonton is a better vessel, Cai says, and he stuffs it with shredded mozzarella, white onions, tomato puree, pizza sauces, a dash of five spice, and then wraps the filling with a slice of mozzarella. The latter gives the Rangoon a cheese pull worthy of an old cartoon, Cai says. The exterior is coated with Italian season and Romano cheese. This is a permanent menu item at Cai’s new South Loop restaurant.



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    Ashok Selvam

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