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Tag: Beauty and fashion

  • The only bags you need for work, weekends and everything in between

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    No two days are the same, and your bag should be ready for all of them. Whether you’re heading to work, the gym, the beach or on a last-minute weekend trip, the right bag helps you stay organized. We’ve found the best bags for every occasion, from slim crossbody bags to luxury duffels and durable backpacks. 

    Original price: $74.99

    Bagsmart duffels have eight pockets keep you organized. 

    Bagsmart duffels have eight pockets keep you organized.  (Bagsmart)

    The Bagsmart Paz duffel isn’t any ordinary duffel bag. It’s less bulky, but still holds up to four days worth of items, making it great for long weekend trips. Cushioned fabric with quilted details make this stylish bag durable and pleasantly soft. With numerous straps, you can wear the bag multiple ways. It has eight pockets, including one specifically for your shoes and one for a laptop up to 15.6 inches. 

    MAKE TRAVEL STRESS-FREE WITH THESE SMART LUGGAGE SOLUTIONS AND TRAVEL ACCESSORIES

    Original price: $595

    Made from 100% leather, this bag is the perfect blend of style and function. 

    Made from 100% leather, this bag is the perfect blend of style and function.  (Quince)

    Your daily bag doesn’t have to be boring. Add a touch of luxury to your everyday life with this Italian leather weekender bag. Complete with three zippered compartments, you can carry everything you need for the gym, work or a weekend away. From the inside out, this bag screams quality. It’s made from 100% top grain leather and is lined with 100% cotton twill. Plus, the protective metal feet help keep the bottom of the bag clean when you rest it on the ground.

    Pack all the essentials in this durable crossbody bag.

    Pack all the essentials in this durable crossbody bag. (Amazon)

    If your day calls for a simple crossbody bag, you can’t go wrong with The North Face Jester bag. It is made with a water-repellent finish, so you can quite literally take this bag with you almost anywhere. It has a front bungee system that adds extra storage for any items with clips, boosting its versatility. 

    Original price: $66

    Don’t lose any of your belongings when you use an anti-theft bag. 

    Don’t lose any of your belongings when you use an anti-theft bag.  (Amazon)

    No matter what your day holds, the Travelon anti-theft messenger bag can keep your belongings safe. It is constructed to be slash-proof and has locking compartments so you won’t need to worry about thieves. Additionally, the bag’s RFID blocking card and passport slots can help keep your data from ending up in the wrong hands. The bag comes in four stylish neutral colors.

    This durable tote can hold up to 500 pounds.

    This durable tote can hold up to 500 pounds. (L.L. Bean)

    An L.L. Bean Boat and Tote bag is designed to last you a lifetime. Introduced in 1944, this bag was made of builders’ canvas for hauling ice. Today, the equally durable tote is used for everything from daily commutes to carrying beach gear. Impressively, it can hold up to 500 pounds, and it’s still made in Maine. The zip top keeps everything inside secure. You can choose from over 10 different colors and four different sizes.

    Don’t worry about your belongings getting wet with Carhartt’s Rain Defender sling bag. 

    Don’t worry about your belongings getting wet with Carhartt’s Rain Defender sling bag.  (Amazon)

    Carhartt’s adjustable sling bag is large enough to fit all your necessities, and durable enough to ensure nothing happens to them. Made with Carhartt’s signature Rain Defender fabric, the bag won’t soak in water. There’s a tablet sleeve in the main compartment, and an outer zippered compartment for smaller items. It also features a fleece-lined zippered pocket that is ideal for glasses or a cell phone.

    Coach makes a roomy, gorgeous carryall bag. 

    Coach makes a roomy, gorgeous carryall bag.  (Coach)

    Inspired by vintage bags, Coach’s Empire Carryall is made with fashionistas in mind. Crafted from natural grain leather, the weekender-style bag can handle overnights or daily use. There’s space for a 16-inch laptop and a zip pocket that can hold all the essentials. You can carry the bag by the top handles or wear it hands-free with a crossbody strap. There are five different leather colors to choose from, including merlot, olive, black, maple and honey brown. 

    KEEP YOUR PURSE ON TREND WITH THESE TOTE BAGS

    There’s enough room for your laptop and sports gear in this backpack. 

    There’s enough room for your laptop and sports gear in this backpack.  (Adidas )

    You don’t need to be an athlete to use the Adidas Originals Premise backpack, although it’s perfect for taking to the gym. Your laptop fits snuggly in the inner sleeve, plus the two water bottle slings on the side provide plenty of space for beverages. Padded shoulder straps also keep you from straining your back. 

    11 LIGHTWEIGHT BACKPACKS THAT ARE PERFECT FOR DAY HIKES

    A tuck bag gives you more space when you need it. 

    A tuck bag gives you more space when you need it.  (Timbuk2)

    Timbuk2’s tuck backpack is lightweight but spacious with a roll-top that expands and contracts as needed. You can fit a 15-inch laptop in the inner pocket, and the dual exterior side pockets provide room for a water bottle, umbrella and other items you need quick access to. The rear zipper gives you entry into the main pocket without needing to unroll the top flap. You can choose from over 40 different color combinations to personalize the bag to your style.

    For more deals, visit www.foxnews.com/deals

    Original price: $74.95

    You’ll stay comfortable when wearing this bag. 

    You’ll stay comfortable when wearing this bag.  (Amazon)

    Whether you’re commuting to the office, going away for the weekend or playing a pick-up soccer game with your friends, the Osprey Daylite Plus pack can do it all. The ergonomic shoulder straps and belt clip keep you upright while you’re on the go, saving your back. The internal hydration sleeve provides plenty of water for hikes. There are 16 different colors to choose from, including unique choices like cascade blue, wander yellow and a smoky desert print.

    If you’re an Amazon Prime member, you can get these items sent to your door ASAP. You can join or start a 30-day free trial to start your shopping today.

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  • The best October Prime Day finds under $25 – and no, they’re not junk

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    Sale events like Amazon’s Prime Big Deal Days often feature significant discounts on big-ticket items. We’ve rounded up tons of deals under $25. 

    Tech

    Roku streaming stick: $19.99 (33% off)
    Kasa Smart Plug 4-pack: $21.99 (27% off)
    Amazon Echo Pop: $24.99 (38% off)
    EverPlus sleep headphones: $9.99 (50% off)
    Emergency crank radio and flashlight: $21.68 (28% off)

    Original price: $34.99

    Turn your TV into a Smart TV with a Fire Stick. 

    Turn your TV into a Smart TV with a Fire Stick.  (Amazon)

    Transform your TV into a smart TV with an Amazon Fire TV Stick. It organizes all your streaming services in one place, and all you need to do is plug it into an HDMI port on the back of your television. Press and ask Alexa when you want to search for shows or launch apps. Connect to other Alexa apps and ask it to lower the lights, stream music, check the weather and more.

    BAG A BIG SCREEN BARGAIN WITH UP TO 50% OFF TVS

    Original price: $49.99

    Keep an eye on your pets and home with a Ring indoor camera. 

    Keep an eye on your pets and home with a Ring indoor camera.  (Amazon)

    With a Ring indoor camera, you can keep an eye on your pets and home day and night. The camera features Live View and Color Night Vision, so you can see every corner of your home. The flexible swivel mount means you can angle the camera however you need to get the perfect view. Set the camera so it only turns on when it detects motion, giving you privacy when you need it. Customize your alerts while you’re away so you only get notified when movement is detected. Alexa also connects to the Ring camera, so you can hear custom notifications and enjoy hands-free security. 

    Home

    Chefman electric kettle with tea infuser: $18.99 (21% off)
    KitchenAid ribbed silicone oven mitt 2-pack: $12.81 (20% off)
    Elegant Comfort 6-piece sheet set: $18.05 (31% off)
    Nightstand with 2 storage drawers: $19.99 (39% off)
    Simplistic A-frame computer desk: $22.59 (58% off)
    5-tier shoe rack: $16.05 (26% off)
    Amazon Basics tilt TV wall mount: $8.91 (21% off)

    Original price: $29.99

    Sleep better on a comfortable, cooling memory foam mattress topper. 

    Sleep better on a comfortable, cooling memory foam mattress topper.  (Amazon)

    Get the night of sleep you deserve by adding this two-inch gel memory foam mattress topper to your bed. It cradles your body’s pressure points to relieve pain and makes hard mattresses extra comfortable. Infused with gel, the topper helps regulate the bed’s temperature so you can sleep cooler. Delivered in a small box, it’s easy to maneuver this topper. Just make sure you give it a few hours to inflate after you unpack.

    SHOP THE BEST MATTRESS SALES: SAVE ON SAATVA, NECTAR, NOLAH AND MORE

    Original price: $16.89

    Protect your couch from kids and pets. 

    Protect your couch from kids and pets.  (Amazon)

    Every pet owner can use one of these OTOB washable couch covers. Made with stylish chenille fabric, the cover won’t compromise the coziness of your couch. It easily tucks into the sides of your couch and drapes over the armrests, making it secure, yet still easy to take on and off when you want to wash it. The cover features a non-slip bottom, so it won’t shift when you sit or when your pets jump up on the couch.

    Beauty

    8-count Gillette Fusion5 razor blades: $23.99 (20% off)
    Real Techniques miracle complexion sponge: $10.99 (41% off)
    L’Oreal Paris true match lumi glotion: $12.05 (33% off)
    Herbal Essences shampoo and conditioner set: $9.88 (51% off)
    Ear and nose hair trimmers: $9.98 (50% off)
    ENERGY angled foundation brush: $4.94 (50% off)
    L’Oreal Paris Plump Ambition pH hyaluron lip oil: $10.97 (22% off)

    Original price: $39.99

    Upgrade your makeup brushes. 

    Upgrade your makeup brushes.  (Amazon)

    Replace all your old makeup brushes with this 20-piece brush set. You get brushes for eye shadow, concealer, blush, foundation and more. They’re professional-grade makeup brushes complete with a pure leather storage case. The synthetic, cruelty-free fibers used in the brushes ensure they’ll last for years.

    Original price: $16.79

    Keep your skin feeling soft by using these calming makeup remover wipes. 

    Keep your skin feeling soft by using these calming makeup remover wipes.  (Amazon)

    two-pack of Neutrogena night calming makeup remover wipes keeps your skin soft and smooth. Made without parabens, soaps or alcohols, the hypoallergenic wipes are great for all skin types, including sensitive skin. The wipes have a triple emollient formula that gently cleans dirt and makeup from your face, leaving you feeling refreshed and ready for bed.

    Essentials

    Amazon Basics AAA batteries: $22.89 (24% off)
    Scotch Magic Tape 12-pack: 19.54 (46% off)
    24-pack LED light bulbs: $21.74 (28% off)
    Armor All car cleaning wipes: $8.42 (44% off)
    Crest Pro-Health Advanced antibacterial protection toothpaste 4-pack: $11.98 (20% off)
    Band-Aid adhesive bandages: $8.48 (28% off)
    Native whitening wild mint and peppermint oil toothpaste: $15.99 (24% off)
    Glad tall kitchen drawstring trash bags: $18.89 (20% off)

    Original price: $20.99

    Your gums and teeth will feel better when you use this toothpaste. 

    Your gums and teeth will feel better when you use this toothpaste.  (Amazon)

    Keep your teeth and gums clean and healthy with Crest Pro-Health gum detoxify toothpaste. You get three tubes of toothpaste that help neutralize plaque buildup for 24 hours (when used twice daily). The fluoride in the toothpaste helps strengthen your teeth and make them less sensitive. Clinically proven to heal gums, stop bleeding and whiten your teeth all at once, this toothpaste is a must for better oral hygiene.

    For more deals, visit www.foxnews.com/deals

    Original price: $20.99

    Relieve nasal congestion with a box of Breathe Right strips. 

    Relieve nasal congestion with a box of Breathe Right strips.  (Amazon)

    Now that sick season is here, it’s a good idea to stock up on Breathe Right nasal strips. They provide instant relief by opening your nasal passages, helping to relieve nasal congestion. Even those with sensitive skin can use these strips since they’re made with non-porous, hypoallergenic materials.

    If you’re an Amazon Prime member, you can get these items to your door ASAP. You can join or start a 30-day free trial to start your shopping today.

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  • People said her business idea wouldn’t work — but it’s now a blooming beauty empire

    People said her business idea wouldn’t work — but it’s now a blooming beauty empire

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    When Trinny Woodall founded her skincare and makeup company Trinny London in 2017, she was often met with skepticism. But since then, she has turned it into a successful business, seeing a sales boom during the coronavirus pandemic.

    Trinny London products include makeup in a wide range of shades, colors and coverage intensity, as well as skincare tailored to specific skin types and issues. An online tool helps customers pick the right products that suit them and support their skin in the best way.

    Speaking to CNBC’s Tania Bryer last month, Woodall explained that she believes being an online business helped her when the coronavirus pandemic hit.

    “We did triple, quadruple the business during lockdown,” she explained, adding that before then, growth had been more steady.

    “It was a pivotal moment,” she said. Before the pandemic, most beauty brands focused on selling their products in person, making it harder for them to adapt to selling online as they had less of a presence there, Woodall noted.

    Building a brand

    But it’s not just about the product — making sure it reaches the right people is also crucial, Woodall suggested.

    “Building a business in today’s world in the industry I’m in is about heralding a community of women and talking in a language they understand,” she said.

    One of the ways Woodall has done this is through social media, both through her own and Trinny London’s accounts and online Trinny London community groups, known as “Trinny Tribes.”

    “Social media allows you to be honest and candid and bring people on a journey,” she explained.

    Now, being genuine and realistic online is a key part of Trinny London’s brand and marketing strategy. This means talking about products in an unfiltered, accessible way and making sure the message matches the customer — rather than using a 20-year-old model to sell products to 35-year-olds, Woodall explained.

    “We want realism, we also want aspiration. And the balance between realism and aspiration is really crucial,” she added.

    The financial side

    Another key part in building Trinny London was securing investors to fund the business. Data from research firm Pitchbook shows a valuation of $22.19 million in July 2018, with its most recent deal size at $36.1 million in July 2021. Forbes reported that the valuation had hit $250 million in early 2021. Data from research firm Dealroom shows the firm booked £59.8 million ($74 million) of revenue in 2021.

    But marketing a female focused brand to predominantly male VCs wasn’t always easy, Woodall said.

    For example, many of them would bring in their assistants or secretaries and ask them if they would buy the product, she said. Others would tell her that women in their 30s and 40s would never buy from an online focused brand, and she should target younger women instead — but eventually Woodall was successful.

    “How we tell the story of what we want to build is crucial as female founders,” she told CNBC, adding that she learned to tell her story in a way that meant “people could hear what I wanted them to hear.”

    She knew all the key figures and her vision inside out, she explained, but sometimes she needed to take it step by step to help others understand it in the same way.

    “I wanted to bring someone in on the whole idea and sometimes you need to do chunk pieces,” Woodall said. “People can follow how you’re going to do it and then they don’t feel ‘I’m lost in this execution’,” she added.

    Her biggest piece of advice for female founders however isn’t about the money, or the product. It’s about staying focused on your idea and your goals.

    “If you’ve got an idea and you go out there you need to stick to your own lane,” Woodall said, adding that paying too much attention to what others are doing can be a hinderance.

    “It takes away your sense of your vision and your belief in your doing what you know and you’ve woken up every morning thinking ‘I love’,” she concluded.

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  • Noted Russian nationalist says army has too few doctors

    Noted Russian nationalist says army has too few doctors

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    MOSCOW — One of Russia’s most prominent nationalist politicians said the Russian military does not have an adequate number of doctors among other problems, a message he delivered in a meeting Saturday with the mothers of soldiers mobilized for the fight in Ukraine.

    The comments by Leonid Slutsky, leader of the populist Liberal Democratic Party and chairman of the foreign relations committee in the lower house of parliament, was an unusually public admission of problems within the military as Russian forces suffer a series of battlefield setbacks.

    “There are not enough doctors in the military units; everyone says this. I cannot say they do not exist at all, but they are practically not seen there,” Slutsky said at the meeting in St. Petersburg.

    Olga Suyetina, foster mother of a soldier mobilized for the Ukraine conflict said she has heard from her son that the troops are underequipped.

    “There are no gunsights, nothing, we have to buy them by crowdfunding,” she said, referring to a device on a gun that helps to aim it. “There is nothing; they left Kharkiv, there was zero, there was not even polyethylene to cover the dugouts.”

    Slutsky, a strong supporter of Russia’s fight in Ukraine, said he would address the Defense Ministry about problems that troops face in Ukraine.

    “We must understand that the whole world is watching us. We are the largest state and when we do not have socks, shorts, doctors, intelligence, communications, or simply care for our children, questions arise that will be very difficult to answer,” he said.

    The meeting came a day after President Vladimir Putin met with another group of soldiers’ mothers. At that meeting Friday he hit out at what he said were skewed media portrayals of Moscow’s military campaign.

    “Life is more difficult and diverse that what is shown on TV screens or even on the internet. There are many fakes, cheating, lies there,” Putin said.

    Putin said that he sometimes speaks with troops directly by telephone, according to a Kremlin transcript and photos of the meeting.

    “I’ve spoken to (troops) who surprised me with their mood, their attitude to the matter. They didn’t expect these calls from me,” Putin said.

    He added that the calls “give me every reason to say that they are heroes.”

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  • Nigerian teens create fashion from trash to fight pollution

    Nigerian teens create fashion from trash to fight pollution

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    LAGOS, Nigeria — Teenage climate activists in Nigeria’s largest city are recycling trash into runway outfits for a “Trashion Show.”

    Chinedu Mogbo, founder of Greenfingers Wildlife Initiative, a conservation group working with the activists, said the show was designed to raise awareness about environmental pollution.

    Lagos, one of Africa’s most populous cities with more than 15 million people, generates at least 12,000 metric tons of waste daily, authorities say. And implementation of environmental laws is poor: The World Bank estimates that pollution kills at least 30,000 people in this city every year.

    This year’s show came just as world leaders wrapped up two weeks of U.N. climate talks in Egypt.

    In collaboration with young activists and models, the Greenfingers Wildlife Initiative says it’s out to recycle as many plastics as possible, one community at a time.

    It organizes regular trash clean-ups across communities, at drainage ditches and beaches. The plastic litter is then used to create fabrics for the fashion show.

    Draped in red plastic spoons and fabric, 16-year-old Nethaniel Edegwa said she joined this year’s edition as a model “to make a change.”

    “We can see that we are all being affected by the climate change, so I really want to make a difference,” Edegwa said.

    ———

    Asadu contributed from Abuja, Nigeria.

    ———

    Follow all AP stories on climate change issues at https://apnews.com/hub/climate-and-environment.

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  • Nigerian teens create fashion from trash to fight pollution

    Nigerian teens create fashion from trash to fight pollution

    [ad_1]

    LAGOS, Nigeria — Teenage climate activists in Nigeria’s largest city are recycling trash into runway outfits for a “Trashion Show.”

    Chinedu Mogbo, founder of Greenfingers Wildlife Initiative, a conservation group working with the activists, said the show was designed to raise awareness about environmental pollution.

    Lagos, one of Africa’s most populous cities with more than 15 million people, generates at least 12,000 metric tons of waste daily, authorities say. And implementation of environmental laws is poor: The World Bank estimates that pollution kills at least 30,000 people in this city every year.

    This year’s show came just as world leaders wrapped up two weeks of U.N. climate talks in Egypt.

    In collaboration with young activists and models, the Greenfingers Wildlife Initiative says it’s out to recycle as many plastics as possible, one community at a time.

    It organizes regular trash clean-ups across communities, at drainage ditches and beaches. The plastic litter is then used to create fabrics for the fashion show.

    Draped in red plastic spoons and fabric, 16-year-old Nethaniel Edegwa said she joined this year’s edition as a model “to make a change.”

    “We can see that we are all being affected by the climate change, so I really want to make a difference,” Edegwa said.

    ———

    Asadu contributed from Abuja, Nigeria.

    ———

    Follow all AP stories on climate change issues at https://apnews.com/hub/climate-and-environment.

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  • World Cup draws attention to equal rights, including attire

    World Cup draws attention to equal rights, including attire

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    Official-looking flyers have circulated on social media describing cultural expectations for fans attending the World Cup in Qatar. Some include rules for women’s attire: Shoulders and knees must be covered.

    Problem is, it’s bogus.

    While the local organizing committee suggests that fans “respect the culture,” no one is expected to be detained or barred from games in Qatar because of clothing choices. But persistent rumors swirling around appropriate garb and modesty at soccer’s biggest tournament have also drawn attention to the country’s record on equality.

    Rothna Begum, a senior researcher at Human Rights Watch, has studied Qatar’s male guardianship rules and women’s rights in the conservative country.

    “There isn’t anyone is going to go around arresting you for this because there isn’t an official dress code,” Begum said. “There isn’t a compulsory dress code and you can’t get sanctioned for it. It’s just a social restriction, a social tradition.”

    The local organizing committee includes a section on cultural awareness in its fan guide.

    “People can generally wear their clothing of choice. Shoulders and knees should be covered when visiting public places like museums and other government buildings,” it said.

    The phrase “public places” is up to interpretation.

    The American Outlaws, the U.S. national team’s supporters’ group, produced its own fan guide.

    “Fans can wear shorts and short sleeve shirts, and women are not required to cover their heads or faces. However, there are many buildings that require both men and women to cover their shoulders and knees before entering, including museums, shopping centers, and some restaurants,” the guide says. “We recommend that fans carry some pants and/or a top with sleeves if they plan on entering any buildings, as they may be asked to put them on.

    “In the stadiums, men and women will be required to wear tops. People will not be permitted to go shirtless during matches or in public settings.”

    The first World Cup in the Middle East comes at a time when there is international attention on the treatment of women in Iran. The nation, which sits across the Persian Gulf from Qatar, has been rocked by anti-hijab protests following the death of 22-year-old Mahsa Amini, who died while being held by morality police for allegedly violating the country’s compulsory dress code for women. Activists have called for Iran to be expelled from the World Cup.

    With Islam encouraging female modesty, most Qatari women wear headscarves and a loose cloak known as the abaya.

    Begum, who wrote about Qatar and its treatment of women in a 2021 report for Human Rights Watch, said that while women have made progress in Qatar, they still face discrimination in almost every facet of their lives. Women must get permission from male guardians to marry, pursue higher education and work at certain jobs. Guardians can bar women under 25 from traveling abroad.

    It’s a conservative culture that has little tolerance for dissent among its own citizens, she said.

    “There are no independent women’s rights organizations and that’s partly because the authorities have laws that make it difficult for you to set up associations that are in any way deemed political. You are not allowed,” Begum said. “Women find it difficult to express or demand their rights offline or even online.”

    That’s one of the reasons critics are questioning FIFA for awarding of the 2022 World Cup to Qatar. Observers certainly noticed when retired American soccer star Carli Lloyd wore a long, high-collared dress with long sleeves for the World Cup draw earlier this year.

    A letter recently circulated among teams from FIFA president Gianni Infantino and secretary general Fatma Samoura asked nations not to bring political or ideological issues into the tournament.

    “Please,” they wrote, “let’s now focus on the football.”

    ———

    AP World Cup coverage: https://apnews.com/hub/world-cup and https://twitter.com/AP—Sports

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  • Wimbledon relaxes all-white clothing rule for women

    Wimbledon relaxes all-white clothing rule for women

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    LONDON — Wimbledon is relaxing its requirement for all-white clothing to allow female players to wear colored undershorts to be more comfortable on their periods.

    Wimbledon’s strict policy about all-white attire for players is one of the best-known features of the grass-court Grand Slam tournament, but the All England Club said it decided to update the rules after discussions “with the WTA, clothing manufacturers and medical teams on how best to support women and girls competing at the championships.”

    The new rules state that women can now “wear solid, mid/dark-colored undershorts provided they are no longer than their shorts or skirt.”

    All other requirements for clothing and accessories remain unchanged, including the stipulation that “competitors must be dressed in suitable tennis attire that is almost entirely white.”

    “We are committed to supporting the players and listening to their feedback as to how they can perform at their best,” said Sally Bolton, the chief executive of the All England Club. “It is our hope that this rule adjustment will help players focus purely on their performance by relieving a potential source of anxiety.”

    The All England Club also said Wimbledon recorded its second-highest ever profit of 47.1 million ($55.5 million) in 2022, which trailed behind only 2019. Of that, 90% will be distributed to the Lawn Tennis Association “for the benefit of British tennis.”

    ———

    More AP tennis: https://apnews.com/hub/tennis and https://twitter.com/AP—Sports

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  • US jails rife with violence, abuse and overcrowding

    US jails rife with violence, abuse and overcrowding

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    In California, lawyers accused staff at the Los Angeles County jail of chaining mentally ill detainees to chairs for days at a time. In West Virginia, people held in the Southern Regional Jail sued the state, saying they found urine and semen in their food. In Missouri, detainees in the St. Louis jail staged multiple uprisings last year, while in Texas, a guard at Houston’s overcrowded Harris County Jail said she and her coworkers had started carrying knives to work for fear that they wouldn’t have backup if violence broke out.

    And while the infamous Rikers Island jail complex in New York City has been the focus of media coverage for its surging number of deaths, rural and urban lockups from Tennessee to Washington to Georgia are not faring much better.

    In other words, America’s jails are a mess.

    “It’s hard to believe, but it seems jails are even more wretched than usual these last few months,” said David Fathi, director of the American Civil Liberties Union’s National Prison Project. “Having worked in this field for 30 years, I don’t remember any other time when there seem to be so many large jails in a state of complete meltdown.”

    Several lockups denied claims about deteriorating conditions or did not respond to requests for comment. A few, including Rikers, acknowledged problems such as infrastructure issues, detainee deaths and high staff attrition.

    “We are working hard to stem the rippling effect of years of mismanagement and neglect within our city’s jails,” a spokesperson for the New York City Department of Correction, which runs Rikers, said in a statement. “Turning our jails around requires a collaborative effort, transparency and time.”

    Unlike prisons, most jails are funded and managed locally, so the problems they face can vary widely from one county to the next. While there’s crumbling infrastructure in Atlanta’s Fulton County Jail, there’s been murky brown drinking water in Seattle’s King County Jail and overcrowding in Houston because of a backlog in the court system.

    But more than a dozen employees, detainees and experts who spoke with The Marshall Project and The Associated Press highlighted two problems they’ve seen at jails across the country: too many people incarcerated, and not enough guards.

    “Our jail facilities are at capacity,” said David Cuevas, president of the Harris County Sheriff’s Office deputies’ union. “It is truly not safe.”

    The twin issues of overcrowding and understaffing have plagued jails across the country for years, and even before the pandemic many facilities were in disarray. Yet in the months after COVID-19 hit, the number of people in local lockups plummeted. People stayed home and committed fewer crimes. Police did not make as many arrests. Courts reduced bail. And jails let more people go home early. Nationally, the number of people in jail decreased by about 25% by the summer of 2020, according to data compiled by the federal Bureau of Justice Statistics.

    But as concern about the virus faded, so did many of the measures designed to combat it — and soon jail populations began to rise. By the summer of 2022, many lockups held more people than they had in years, or became so overcrowded that detainees were forced to sleep on floors, in underground tunnels or in common areas without toilets.

    “Everyone is on edge because it is crowded,” one man detained in Los Angeles wrote in a sworn declaration filed as part of a lawsuit by the American Civil Liberties Union. “The place smells of urine and excrement because some toilets don’t work, and people who are chained to chairs sometimes pee on the floor because the deputies won’t unchain them.”

    Celia Banos, whose son was one of the people chained to a bench for several days, told The Marshall Project that she was shocked to learn how little the jail had done to take care of him.

    “His condition has deteriorated in there,” Banos said. Though her son — who has schizophrenia — has been incarcerated before, she said this time the jail seemed to be getting worse.

    Some jails found that they still needed to use isolated cells to quarantine potentially sick prisoners. A jail official in Houston said that meant cells that once held two or three people might only be able to hold one, and detainees with a record of violence couldn’t be separated from the general population as easily.

    But even as the number of detainees increased, the number of guards did not. Just like state prisons, many local lockups saw a rise in officer vacancies — sometimes even at facilities that appeared fully staffed on paper. The City, a nonprofit news outlet in New York, reported last year that more than 1,000 Rikers Island guards were calling out sick every day due to a frequently abused policy allowing unlimited sick leave.

    “The things that led to the Great Resignation were happening in jails, too: It was a depressing time, and lots of people were getting sick,” Vincent Schiraldi, a former New York City jail commissioner, said in an interview.

    The guards’ union has disputed that members overuse sick leave, saying they are legitimately absent, often due to on-the-job injuries and exhaustion. In October, the jail said it still had as many as 800 employees out at a time.

    With fewer officers, those who remain are often forced to work longer hours, including double, triple and even quadruple shifts. Guards in Cleveland said they didn’t have time to eat, while some jail workers in Houston reported urinating in bags when they couldn’t find someone to replace them at their posts.

    Having fewer jail employees can also make life worse for detainees because there are fewer workers to let them out of their cells, take them to court, teach their educational programs or tend to their most basic needs.

    In Houston, a man in one of the jail’s isolation units said violence sometimes broke out after guards didn’t let them out to shower for days at a time, while in Philadelphia — at a lockup with a 36% staff vacancy rate — incarcerated people said they couldn’t always get meals or toilet paper. (A jail spokesman “categorically denied” that allegation.) In Ohio, local media reported that guards at Cleveland’s Cuyahoga County Jail have taken to locking people in their cells 23 hours a day because there aren’t enough staff.

    And in one extreme example, a man detained at the Oklahoma County jail in Oklahoma City is accused of raping a handcuffed woman after guards at the understaffed facility left them unsupervised during booking. A detention officer at the troubled facility, which the county took over from the sheriff two years ago, eventually intervened, and the man was later charged with first-degree rape. A jail official said that no disciplinary measures against staff have been announced, but the matter is still under investigation.

    According to Andrea Armstrong, a law professor at Loyola University New Orleans who studies deaths in jails and prisons, staffing problems are particularly dangerous when it comes to medical care.

    “We are seeing increased mortality in jails, and they are the types of deaths that could have been avoided if the person had better access to emergency care,” she said.

    In February, a man at Rikers Island choked on an orange and died after staff failed to intervene in time. He was one of eighteen people who have died in the city’s jails this year. Two months later, a detainee at the jail in Anoka County, Minnesota, died in his cell after the guards could not find any medical staff on duty to save him. In Houston, the family of a man who caught COVID-19 and died alone in his cell last year sued the jail. According to the family’s lawyer, U.A. Lewis, none of the staff noticed the man was dead until officers came to get him for a visit.

    Despite the consensus among experts that conditions are deteriorating in many lockups, there’s far less agreement on solutions. While jails officials said they needed basic infrastructure improvements and more staff, some prisoner advocates point out that more lenient bail policies could help ensure fewer people stay behind bars when they don’t have money to pay for their freedom.

    In the meantime, researchers say they need better information from the jails to be able to measure the scope of the problem.

    “There’s so little data out there,” said Michele Deitch, a law professor at the University of Texas at Austin who studies jails and prisons. “We literally do not have the means to assess the safety or dangerousness of a facility in any comparative way.”

    Some of the starkest examples of poor conditions — like semen-tainted food or brown drinking water — aren’t easy to measure.

    Even for those things that can be measured — like overcrowding, understaffing or an increase in jail deaths — the available numbers are often years delayed and unreliable. For example, the U.S. Department of Justice said that its annual in-custody death reports undercounted jail deaths by at least 39%. And although the federal government issues an annual report about the number of people in jails nationwide, the most recent data is more than two years old.

    Experts said that lack of data makes it hard to say how much of the growing alarm now actually reflects a change in jail conditions and how much is the result of heightened interest from media and the public.

    But they say that so far, that increased concern has not translated into better conditions.

    “It is horrible in here,” another detainee in Los Angeles wrote in a sworn declaration. “In fact, it is worse than being homeless. Even when I sleep on the streets, there is some room to stretch out. But in here, there are so many people walking by you or sleeping next to you that I’d rather be on the streets.”

    ———

    Blakinger and Rachel Dissell in Cleveland reported for The Marshall Project. Associated Press writers Ken Miller in Oklahoma City and Claudia Lauer in Philadelphia contributed to this report.

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  • Russia’s Putin says he won’t use nuclear weapons in Ukraine

    Russia’s Putin says he won’t use nuclear weapons in Ukraine

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    MOSCOW — Russian President Vladimir Putin on Thursday denied having any intentions of using nuclear weapons in Ukraine but described the conflict there as part of alleged efforts by the West to secure its global domination, which he insisted are doomed to fail.

    Speaking at a conference of international foreign policy experts, Putin said it’s pointless for Russia to strike Ukraine with nuclear weapons.

    “We see no need for that,” Putin said. “There is no point in that, neither political, nor military.”

    Putin said an earlier warning of his readiness to use “all means available to protect Russia” didn’t amount to nuclear saber-rattling but was merely a response to Western statements about their possible use of nuclear weapons.

    He particularly mentioned Liz Truss saying in August that she would be ready to use nuclear weapons if she became Britain’s prime minister, a remark which he said worried the Kremlin.

    “What were we supposed to think?” Putin said. “We saw that as a coordinated position, an attempt to blackmail us.”

    In a long speech full of diatribes against the United States and its allies, Putin accused them of trying to dictate their terms to other nations in a “dangerous, bloody and dirty” domination game.

    Putin, who sent his troops into Ukraine on Feb. 24, has cast Western support for Ukraine as part of broad efforts by Washington and its allies to enforce its will upon others through a rules-based world order. He argued that the world has reached a turning point, when “the West is no longer able to dictate its will to humankind but still tries to do it, and the majority of nations no longer want to tolerate it.”

    The Russian leader claimed that the Western policies will foment more chaos, adding that “he who sows the wind will reap the whirlwind.”

    Putin claimed that “humankind now faces a choice: accumulate a load of problems that will inevitably crush us all or try to find solutions that may not be ideal but could work and could make the world more stable and secure.”

    Without offering evidence, the Russian leader repeated Moscow’s unproven allegation that Ukraine was plotting a false flag attack involving a radioactive dirty bomb it would try to pin on Russia.

    Ukraine has strongly rejected the claim, and its Western allies have dismissed it as “transparently false.” Ukraine argued Russia might be making the unfounded allegation to serve as a cover for its own possible plot to detonate a dirty bomb.

    U.S. Defense Secretary Lloyd Austin told reporters on Thursday that the U.S. has still not seen anything to indicate that Putin has decided to use a dirty bomb.

    Putin said he personally ordered Russian Defense Minister Sergei Shoigu to call his foreign counterparts to tell them about the purported plot. He maintained that Russia knows the Ukrainian facilities working on the project.

    He mocked the allegations by Ukraine and the West that Russia was firing on the territory of the Zaporizhzhia Nuclear Power Plant in southern Ukraine as “ravings.” Russian troops have occupied the plant, Europe’s largest, since the early days of the conflict.

    Putin also expressed bewilderment about Washington’s policy on China, noting that tensions sparked by a recent visit to Taiwan by U.S. House Speaker Nancy Pelosi come amid the U.S.-Russian showdown over Ukraine.

    “Why spoil relations with China at the same time?” Putin said. “It seems to defy logic and common sense. It looks like ravings.”

    He hailed Russia’s relations with China, but said he hadn’t warned Chinese President Xi Jinping about his intention to send troops into Ukraine when he visited Beijing days before that to attend the 2022 Winter Olympics.

    Asked about Washinton’s threat to re-evaluate its relationship with Saudi Arabia over the Riyadh-led OPEC+ alliance’s move to cut oil production, Putin argued that Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman was acting in his nation’s interests and the need to stabilize global energy markets.

    “They need to respect the crown prince and Saudi Arabia, and they will respond in kind,” Putin said. “And they will also respond in kind if they are spoken to in a boorish manner.”

    The Russian leader said Russia isn’t the enemy of the West but will continue to oppose the purported diktat of Western neo-liberal elites, accusing them of trying to subdue Russia.

    “Their goal is to make Russia more vulnerable and turn it into an instrument for fulfilling their geopolitical tasks, they have failed to achieve it and they will never succeed,” Putin said.

    Putin reaffirmed his long-held claim that Russians and Ukrainians are part of a single people and again denigrated Ukraine as an “artificial state” that received historic Russian lands from Communist rulers during the Soviet times.

    In that context, he acknowledged that the fighting in Ukraine effectively amounts to a civil war, although the Kremlin calls its actions in Ukraine a “special military operation.”

    Putin said he thinks “all the time” about the casualties that Russia has suffered in Ukraine, but insisted that NATO’s refusal to rule out Ukraine’s prospective membership and Kyiv’s refusal to adhere to a peace deal for its separatist conflict in the country’s east has left Moscow no other choice.

    He denied underestimating Ukraine’s ability to fight back and insisted that his “special military operation” has proceeded as planned.

    Putin also acknowledged the challenges posed by Western sanctions, but argued that Russia has proven resilient to foreign pressure and has become more united.

    John Kirby, a U.S. National Security Council spokesman, responded to Putin’s speech as it was underway.

    “We don’t believe that Mr. Putin’s strategic goals have changed here. He doesn’t want Ukraine to exist as a sovereign, independent nation state,” Kirby said.

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  • Glitzy Valentino show sees Paris Fashion Week at fever pitch

    Glitzy Valentino show sees Paris Fashion Week at fever pitch

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    PARIS — Valentino’s Paris fashion show on Sunday saw black cars snared for blocks dropping off battalions of celebrities who, amid the commotion, just couldn’t find the entrance.

    Seated VIP guests were sweatily crammed in together inside the Le Marais’ Carreau du Temple venue, waiting as the show started an hour late. Outside, screaming members of the public braved the rain for hours just for a glimpse of their favorite stars.

    Fever pitch like this at Paris ready-to-wear fashion shows is reminiscent of the French capital’s pre-pandemic fashion scene — and one more visible sign the industry is buoyant again after the devastation caused by the coronavirus pandemic.

    Here are some highlights of Sunday’s spring-summer 2023 collections in Paris:

    VALENTINO’S REVEAL

    “Cuts and transparencies reveal the persona,” the brand said of designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s glitzy spring collection that mixed gimmicks with moments of thoughtful fashion skill.

    Models with faces and necks completely covered in disturbing interlocking “V” make-up began the show, introducing the theme of the reveal.

    The exploration of inside-out or back-to-front continued in a beautiful nude skin-like top with matching nude pants speckled sparingly with diaphanous plumes on model Anna Cleveland.

    A coat had ostrich feathers peaking out from inside through the hems. The sides of some dresses were scooped out, while a dazzling purple sequined floor-length gown revealed the model’s flesh only at the back.

    Yet at times it felt as if the lauded Italian designer may have tried to fit too much in. By outfit number 91, it also felt exhausting — with fashion insiders fidgeting for the show to wrap up.

    The Valentino finale was the true reveal of the show, which was livestreamed: The models did not even walk past seated guests as usual, but straight outside to the cheering general public, making some inside feel superfluous.

    RAIN ON GIVENCHY’S PARADE

    Rain would normally be a good thing in the green thickets of the Jardin des Plantes, the gardens in central Paris.

    For Givenchy’s outside runway, it was another story.

    VIP guests including Olivia Rodrigo survived torrential downpours only thanks to helpers clutching transparent umbrellas. But the show had to go on. For Matthew M. Williams, a designer who has garnered lukewarm reviews of late, this collection was a little like crunch time.

    For spring, the U.S. designer moved his street aesthetic in a dressier direction — likely trying to bring him to the safer ground of the age-old house’s traditional aesthetic. He had some success.

    An oversized tweed black bolero cut a creatively surreal silhouette atop a pencil-thin mini dress, twinned with Matrix-style shades. Elsewhere, features such as ruching on a silken top, or draping on a fluid skirt, resembled thick organic sinews or ribs.

    This felt like a good, gently transgressive direction for the house immortalized by Audrey Hepburn’s LBD.

    However, many of Williams’ design elements still felt out of place on the haute Paris runway, such as 90s lowslung cargo shorts that seemed off-kilter. Furthermore, they clashed with the black silken ruffled cuffs that dangled down.

    THE ART OF THE INVITATION

    The art of the chic invite is still very much a staple of the Paris luxury industry.

    The little works of art sometimes provide a hint as to what the collection has in store; other times, they are just plain wacky.

    Balenciaga’s spring invite was — unfathomably — a real used leather wallet containing real French franc notes, a health security card, a photo of a pet cat, and credit cards as well as other things spilling out. Countless videos appeared on social media of surprised guests opening their “invite.”

    One fashion inside exclaimed: “But how do you know how to get to the show?”

    Valentino’s invitation was a smooth black cube that opened to have nothing inside but a QR code. Chanel’s was a card of Kristen Stewart’s face that was so big it could not fit into letter boxes.

    BARBARA BUI IS SMART

    Low-key French designer Barbara Bui is a good example of how the pandemic affected the fashion industry — for better and for worse.

    Many houses went digital during the lockdowns, opting to show a fashion film instead of staging a show, which was for many months prohibited. In this spring Paris season — like in Milan’s — the industry seems to be very much back to pre-pandemic runways, yet Bui’s was one of a spattering of collections that continued with the fashion film format.

    It’s a smart move: Smaller houses like Bui’s have benefited from the new flexibility as runway collections are clearly much more expensive to produce.

    The collection’s spring video featured a couple of lovers in a French country house seeking each other out and seemingly wearing each other’s clothes — a good theme for a co-ed fashion show.

    The film’s use of light sat well with the fluidity of a loose white tuxedo suit on a bare chest, or a giant multicolored foulard thrown nonchalantly over the male model’s naked shoulder. A cobalt blue one-shoulder piece was set off by the male model’s long bright red and androgynous nail polish.

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  • Hermes goes for earthen tones; Ellie Saab revisits the ’60s

    Hermes goes for earthen tones; Ellie Saab revisits the ’60s

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    PARIS — A giant, glowing crystal rock upon a sand-colored carpet evoked a glamorous alien planet for Hermes’ champagne-sipping VIP guests.

    Earthen hues like browns, reds and yellows — colors long-associated with the heritage brand — were used at Saturday’s show to create Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s utilitarian, low-key yet luxuriant universe for spring.

    Elsewhere, Ukraine’s top fashion designers used the platform of Paris Fashion Week to promote their war-battered industry.

    Here are some highlights of the day’s spring-summer 2023 collections in Paris:

    HERMES’ SUBTLE STRINGS

    It was a Vanhee-Cybulski minimalist take on the 80s.

    The lone pulsating crystal that glowed color from the center of the runway established the collection’s key idea: Simplicity is powerful.

    As the show took off, the odd utilitarian features — such as toggles and the strange, perplexing box platform shoes that stomped throughout — were used with subtlety but aplomb.

    It gave a sporty and outer-space feel to the collection’s stylish, almost empty, restraint — a mood that now defines the talented 44-year-old French designer’s repertoire.

    Tan suede tunic minidresses sported beautiful, braided leather hems — showcased without jewelry on a makeup-less model. While, exposed midriffs latticed with cords and toggles came on otherwise unfussy slim silhouettes.

    UKRAINE’S “GOOD SIX” DESIGNERS SHOW UNITED FRONT

    Last season in Paris, the Ukrainian designers trade fair event took place just two days before Russia’s invasion amid stories of some artists fleeing the country so rapidly they had only their children and their collection in hand.

    This season sees no improvement back home for the industry: It’s been battered by increased financial strains as designers try hard to maintain employed staff despite little money, a decrease in demand and ravished supply chains.

    A collective of these designer-survivors is showing in Paris beginning Saturday until Oct.6.

    Jen Sidary, the collective’s head, said “in my 30 years of working in the fashion industry, I have never witnessed the resilience of a country and its people as they began to focus on keeping their businesses alive, days into the war, from bomb shelters to designing new collections amidst constant air raid sirens.”

    The six making up the Paris Fashion Week event — Frolov, Kachorovska, Chereshnivska, Litkovska, My Sleeping Gypsy and Oliz — are showcasing unisex apparel, footwear and scarves. It’s a bid to keep their ravaged industry alive, and form of resistance against the Russian bombs decimating their homeland.

    Many of their colleagues back home in Ukraine have had to repurpose their operations to help the war effort, relocating within the country, according to Sidary.

    The courage of the Ukraine fashion industry has drawn international attention.

    USAID Project Manager Natalia Petrova spoke of the “remarkable resilience, commitment and awareness” of Ukrainian businesses since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

    “Disruptions on the domestic market caused by decrease in demand by population and broken supply chains, are pushing companies to explore export opportunities to diversify their sales,” she added.

    ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

    Kink mated with art in the typically quirky fare from Kronthaler — a staple show where a fashion surprise is all but expected.

    With his usual encyclopedic flair, Kronthaler wove an aesthetic from yesteryear — medieval and renaissance nobles and peasants — into his drape-heavy silhouettes. Guests almost felt like they were at the theater.

    Juliette sleeves mixed with black Renaissance tarbuds, decorated collars and even one wacky but stylish blue loose tuxedo look that could have been worn by the Bard himself. Of course, Kronthaler accessorized it anachronistically with pale blue striped rugby socks. Added to the creative cauldron were chunky Glam Rock boots and a Highlands kilt style with white trimming at the male model’s nether regions, making it look like they might have gotten a front bite.

    The opening image of Irina Shayk, often voted among the most beautiful models in the world, in a shiny black bustier and silver-ring earrings riffing off S&M will surely be one picture few quickly forget.

    ELIE SAAB REVISITS THE 60s

    The late 1960s got a facelift on Saturday in a collection that featured babydoll dresses, miniskirts, psychedelia, crop-tops and jabot collars — but never lost that floaty, contemporary Saab touch.

    The first look from Saab at his Paris fashion show fused a 1960s angelic-white crop top and a maxi skirt with an ethnic look, thanks to a construction of interlocking motifs. This fusion of different eras continued throughout the show, which sent out 68 items.

    Lace detailing was a big theme and became the front of a baggy pale tracksuit top. In an anachronism that defined this Saab spring aesthetic, it was worn alongside a sheer 1990s’ tulle skirt. It had a great swag and could have very well been seen at a music festival in that decade.

    Flashes of Barbie pink and citrus contrasted with psychedelic stripes on column silhouettes, sometimes making it feel like Saab was trying to put too much in the mix. The collection was ultimately hard to pin down.

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