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Tag: Basquiat

  • “The Art Was My Escape”: Lee Quiñones, Subway Graffiti Pioneer, Gets the Mega-Monograph Treatment

    “The Art Was My Escape”: Lee Quiñones, Subway Graffiti Pioneer, Gets the Mega-Monograph Treatment

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    Lee Quiñones always wanted to be an artist. Growing up in the Alfred E. Smith projects in New York City’s Lower East Side in the 1960s and early 1970s, he was surrounded by inspiring art—bold, colorful graffiti emblazoned on walls, storefronts, and subway cars—but he never saw anyone creating it. “This particular inscribing…was done in secret, covertly,” Quiñones says. Such stealth was necessary, since spray-painting public property was not only seen as a misdemeanor but as a sign of the municipal apocalypse. In a tumultuous era when New York City nearly declared bankruptcy, graffiti was frequently scapegoated as a social ill that was destroying the city.

    Quiñones knew better. He saw a coded conversation among young people, most of them Black and brown, expressing their identity and what he calls “an urgency for a sense of our belonging.” Quiñones wanted to be a part of the dialogue. He found his voice when, at age 13, a local graffiti artist named Flea led him into the subway tunnels, where artists were creating vibrant, mobile murals on the city’s transit system. “Being introduced to that scene, and the movement in the trains, was a sort of freedom,” Quiñones says. “It was really, truly the Underground Railroad for me.”

    What a ride it’s been. A gorgeous new artistic monograph has just been published celebrating the pioneering 63-year-old Puerto Rico–born artist’s five-decade career. Titled Lee Quiñones: Fifty Years of New York Graffiti Art and Beyond and edited by the journalist, writer, and entrepreneur Tamara Warren—who is also Lee’s wife—the book features essays and contributions from art world luminaries Franklin Sirmans (director of the Pérez Art Museum in Miami) and Isolde Brielmaier (deputy director of the New Museum in New York City); tributes from artistic colleagues including FUTURA, Debbie Harry, Jenny Holzer, William Cordova, Bisa Butler, Barry McGee, and Odili Donald Odita; and period photos by a roster of 1970s and 80s NYC scenesters including Charlie Ahearn, Martha Cooper, Sue Kwon, Edo Bertoglio, and Henry Chalfant.

    But mainly, the book documents Lee’s work. Starting in the mid-70s, Quiñones produced scores of car-length and train-length rolling paintings. He developed his own signature style and text. Like the Pop artists, he appropriated characters, phrases, and symbology from comics, films, and consumer messaging. And he added commentary on contemporary social and civil rights movements. “The struggles that I witnessed and experienced personally was the friction around race,” Quiñones says. “The art was my escape. And it was also my voice, to voice about those issues in a way that I could not in society.”

    Quiñones took it as his mission to disseminate this work as broadly as possible. “The trains were the vessel, literally, to get my work across town—from the northeast Bronx to the southeastern parts of Brooklyn, blighted areas,” he says. And he found, in the flourishing discord of that era, a catalyzing petri dish. “You had punk music, alternative rock, alternative films, and poetry. You had writing on the walls turning into mural-making. None of that stuff was scripted. It was just a moment, a flash moment,” he says.

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    Brett Berk

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  • A Legendary Pairing Falls Short: Another Failed Tiffany’s Campaign

    A Legendary Pairing Falls Short: Another Failed Tiffany’s Campaign

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    In a world of luxury items, we are no strangers to high-end fashion brands intermingling with mass-market fashion. Hermès, once known for producing saddles, eventually made their way into the world with their bags. Louis Vuitton, the luggage empire, is now a leading face in fashion weeks everywhere. Tiffany, however, has stuck to jewelry.


    Tiffany’s robin’s egg blue demeanor and solid silver have satisfied customers for countless years. But recently, they’ve decided to market to a different, younger demographic. Look no further than their most recent attempt with the “1837 Collection” collaboration with Nike for the 40th anniversary of the Air Force 1.

    For Nike, it’s another score. For Tiffany, it leaves questions. The brand, acquired by LVMH in 2021, has hailed multiple collabs with big names like Jay-Z & Beyonce, Hailey Bieber, and Blackpink’s Rosé in an attempt to reach a younger generation of sales. Yet, longtime Tiffany fans have had an issue with most of these campaigns.

    Jay-Z and Beyonce for Tiffany

    Tiffany & Co.

    The $400 AF1 is all black leather with a robin’s egg blue swoosh, complete with a Tiffany silver shoe horn, silver brush, attachable silver whistle, and laces. Dropping on March 3, the resale value already rests at $1,850 on StockX. And while Nike has successfully collabed with other LVMH brands like Dior and Louis Vuitton, Tiffany’s take on the iconic Nike classic falls short.

    The shoe itself does little to represent Tiffany’s brand identity. The shoe buckle on the laces is leather when there is a clear opportunity to incorporate Tiffany’s well-known silver. The predominantly black leather is no ode to anything about the brand. People are saying they’re trying too hard to appeal to sneakerheads, suggesting buying the shoe to melt down the silver appliques.

    It’s not Tiffany’s only grasp at relevancy with a younger crowd this year, either. The brand released a sold-out NFT, solidifying the notion that they are aiming for a new audience. It follows the controversial “Not Your Mother’s Tiffany” campaign from July 2021.

    Campaign by Sharif Hamza, street photography Maxwell Schiano for Tiffany.

    The campaign brandished buildings with billboards of models against a plain backdrop sporting t-shirts and loose denim. Accompanying the new, edgy look were slogans like “tell us again silver’s dated…we dare you.” The idea? They’re no longer the Tiffany’s that your mother wore…they’re cool now.

    But the longtime supporters of the silver jewelry titan took offense. Why alienate one sector of consumers to appeal to another? What was wrong with your mother buying Tiffany? And what was wrong with the classic, luxurious feel that Tiffany once provided?

    Just like Victoria’s Secret taking away the Angels to promote diversity, Tiffany missed the point. People love the timeless look of Tiffany, and they don’t care that their mother owned it. People’s mothers own Cartier and every girl out there still wants the LOVE bracelet. They want a solid brand identity that doesn’t mold to a specific age range.

    We’ve seen plenty of examples of successful rebrands in recent years. The return of “dad shoes” like New Balance, ASICS, and Crocs have all been welcomed with open arms. Brands you once declared dead are resurrected.

    And yet, surprisingly, Tiffany is still raking in the cash. They reported a record year in 2022 with the high jewelry revenue doubling. However, every campaign is alienating a potential customer.

    When you think about Tiffany’s, you think of Audrey Hepburn-esque luxury. So why are they trying so hard to change that? Maybe they’re losing customers in the older age range and feel they need to force their way into younger markets by any means necessary. Or maybe they’re just too out of touch to realize that no one likes a copycat.

    With creative director Ruba Abu-Nimah stepping down this year only two years after being appointed, it’s tough to imagine how Tiffany will mold their brand identity. While fans are calling for embracing tradition and sticking to what they know, Tiffany appears to be doing just fine on their own.

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    Jai Phillips

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  • Black Fashion Fair Teams Up With the Basquiat Family For an Exhibition You Can Wear

    Black Fashion Fair Teams Up With the Basquiat Family For an Exhibition You Can Wear

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    Brandon Blackwood at the “Jean-Michel Basquiat: King Pleasure & Black Fashion Fair: Those Who Dress Better” exhibition.

    A new exhibition is in town — and this time, it’s one you can wear. 

    Tied to the “King Pleasure” exhibit currently on display in New York City, Black Fashion Fair partnered with Jean-Michel Basquiat’s estate for a show-slash-collaboration that’s not only open for viewing, but also for shopping. In honor of the celebration of the late artist’s work, his sisters Lisane Basquiat and Jeanine Heriveaux commissioned nine Black-owned brands — Hanifa, Theophilio, Brandon Blackwood, Who Decides War, Johnny Nelson, Bed on Water, Homage Year, Head of State, and Advisry — to create pieces based on his body of work.

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    India Roby

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