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Tag: arizona gardening

  • How to Grow Ginger: Tips for Success

    How to Grow Ginger: Tips for Success

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    As a low desert gardener, it’s exciting to learn how to grow a crop that I already use, is good for you, and grows well in warm climates. Ginger definitely qualifies on all three accounts. Learning how to grow ginger is easy, and growing it is even simpler (especially if you live in a warm climate). 

    Ginger is a heat-loving, tropical perennial herb grown for its bamboo-like leaves and flavorful rhizomes. It is grown as a long-season annual in all but the warmest locations. This article includes information on growing ginger in warm and cool climates, as well as tips for growing ginger in containers and indoors.


    Article Outline:

    1. Understand how ginger grows
    2. Purchase and prepare ginger before planting
    3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow
    4. Give ginger plenty of warmth
    5. Grow ginger in good soil and fertilize as needed
    6. Water ginger correctly
    7. Harvest ginger at the right time
    8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways


    1. Understand how ginger grows

    Ginger is grown from rhizomes. Rhizomes are fleshy stems that spread horizontally underground and contain several buds or growing points. The ginger rhizomes are planted below ground and send up bamboo-like shoots that give energy to the developing ginger below ground. 

    Ginger shoots emerge from the ground when the weather is nice and warm in the spring. Throughout the long days and warm months of summer, ginger grows well. As the days get shorter and cooler, the leaves turn yellow, and the ginger begins to go dormant. 


    2. Purchase and prepare ginger before planting

    You can buy ginger online from seed companies, but you can also purchase organic ginger from your local market. I get mine at Sprouts. When purchasing ginger rhizomes for planting, look for light-colored, thin-skinned organic ginger that is plump and firm with several bumpy nodules. 

    To prepare ginger for planting, cut rhizomes into 2-3″ (5-7cm) pieces (each piece containing at least 2 to 3 nodules). Allow cut ends to dry and heal over before planting.

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow

    Ginger needs a long, warm growing season of about 10 months to grow well. 

    Zones 8 and warmer generally have enough time to start and grow ginger outdoors. Plant outdoors after your last frost date and when the soil warms in the spring. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ginger in March.

    Plant rhizomes with nodules pointing up 2″ (5 cm) deep and 6–8″ (15-20 cm) apart. 

    For square foot gardening, plant 4 ginger rhizomes per square foot.

    In cooler climates, you will need to pre-sprout rhizomes indoors before planting. Count back 10 months from your first fall frost date. This is the time to begin pre-sprouting your ginger. 

    To pre-sprout ginger, plant rhizomes 2″ (5 cm) deep in small pots on heat mats. Keep warm and slightly moist (but not soggy; it will rot). Once ginger sprouts, provide supplemental lighting until it is warm enough to plant outside. Gradually let plants become accustomed to outdoor conditions for a week and then carefully transplant sprouts to larger containers or garden beds outdoors. For more detailed information about how to pre-sprout ginger, read this blog post.


    4. Give ginger plenty of warmth

    Ginger does not grow well in temperatures below 55°F (12°C). Temperatures below freezing cause damage to the leaves and also kill the rhizomes. 

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    In cooler climates, choose your warmest location to plant ginger. Look for an area that gets reflected heat from a block wall. Consider planting ginger in a container. Containers often heat up more quickly in the spring. Move the container to a sheltered location when temperatures fall.

    To grow ginger in containers:

    • Use a container for growing ginger that is at least 12″ (30 cm) deep.
    • Container-grown ginger may need more frequent watering and fertilizer.
    • Harvest container-grown ginger by dumping it onto a tarp or into a wheelbarrow

    To grow ginger indoors:

    • Provide supplemental lighting for ginger for 12 – 14 hours.
    • Ideal indoor temperature: 75°F (24°C).
    • May require supplemental feeding.

    In hot summer locations, provide shade for growing ginger. Although it prefers warm soil, intense sun often damages the growing leaves. Look for an area to plant ginger that receives shade naturally, or provide shade for growing ginger.


    5. Grow ginger in good soil and fertilize as needed

    The best soil for ginger is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Rich, loose soil may provide enough nutrients for growing ginger. Mulching the soil with additional compost or straw helps provide nutrients, control weeds, and retain water. 

    While ginger is growing, you can add a few inches of compost to growing ginger sprouts, similar to “hilling” potatoes. This can encourage more growth in the rhizomes. 

    If your ginger is not growing well, consider feeding every few weeks with an organic fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsionTesting your soil will help you determine exactly what the soil is lacking.

    How to Grow Ginger: Tips for SuccessHow to Grow Ginger: Tips for Success
    Ginger developing below ground

    6. Water ginger correctly

    Ginger grows best with regular water, especially when the plant is actively growing. Well-draining soil is important as the rhizomes do not like soggy conditions. Do not overwater. As temperatures cool, reduce watering.


    7. Harvest ginger at the right time

    In cool climates, harvest ginger all at once before freezing temperatures. In warmer climates, harvest ginger after the leaves begin to yellow and die back. Wait to harvest as long as possible for the largest rhizomes. 

    To harvest, gently dig up the entire plant. In warm areas, you can grow ginger as a perennial. Leave the ginger in the ground and harvest as needed. Plants will go dormant during the cooler months and shorter days of winter, but new shoots will emerge in the spring.



    8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways

    After harvesting ginger, rinse it well and cut off shoots and large roots. The leaves can be used in tea. 

    Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator or freezer in reusable storage bags. Unpeeled ginger keeps for about a month in the refrigerator or for up to a year frozen.

    Dehydrate ginger by peeling (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) and slicing. Dehydrate at 95°F (35°C )for 8-12 hours or until ginger is crisp and breaks when bent. I use this dehydrator from Amazon

    Store dehydrated slices in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Process small amounts of the sliced ginger into powder. Once ground, the powder will begin to lose flavor, so grind only a small amount at a time.

    Process peeled ginger (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) with a small amount of water in the blender. This is the blender I use. 

    Freeze in herb or ice cube trays. Use individual portions as needed. When processed this way, ginger lasts up to a year in the freezer.


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    Judson

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  • What to Plant and Harvest in August: Low Desert of Arizona

    What to Plant and Harvest in August: Low Desert of Arizona

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    Are you wondering what to plant and harvest in August in Arizona? I’ll show you which seeds to start indoors and what you can plant outside in August. It is still hot in the Phoenix Valley, but if you want another round of warm-season crops, August is a good time to plant. It’s also an important month for starting seeds indoors.

    For a printable checklist and information about August gardening tasks for the low desert, read this article. The low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

    What to Plant and Harvest in August: Low Desert of Arizona

    Article Outline:


    What to Do Before You Plant During August in Arizona

    As you decide what to plant in August (and upcoming months) in your low desert garden, think about what you enjoy growing the most—what do you most look forward to in the garden? Which foods taste best from the garden? What do you love having easy access to?

    Take a look at your available space. A significant planting window for cool-season crops will open in mid-September and October, so be sure to leave some room for them! 

    By planting in August, you’re setting yourself up for a bountiful harvest of warm-season crops like tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, and corn, which can sometimes struggle because it gets hot so quickly in the spring.

    What to Do Before You Plant During AugustWhat to Do Before You Plant During August

    Want more information about gardening in Arizona? This blog post shares seven tips for how to grow a vegetable garden in Arizona


    What Can You Harvest in August in the Low Desert of Arizona?

    We can garden year-round here in the low desert, and it seems there is always something to plant and harvest. Weather patterns vary, and some years higher than average heat and lack of rain can make gardening more challenging. However, If you’re following my planting guide, here are some of the vegetables it’s possible to harvest during August. I’d love for you to leave a comment and let me know what you’re harvesting right now.

    (click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)

    Vegetables:

    Amaranth, Armenian CucumbersAsparagus Beans, Beans, Borlotti Beans, Butternut Squash, Cucumbers, Eggplant, Malabar spinach, OkraPeppersSunflower Seeds, Summer Squash, Tomatillos, Tomatoes 

    Herbs:

    BasilDill Seeds, Lemongrass, Lemon Balm, Lemon Verbena, MintOreganoParsley SeedsSage, Stevia, RosemaryThyme

    Fruit:

    Apples, Blackberries, Cantaloupe, Chichiquelite, Figs, Grapes, Ground Cherries, Passionfruit, Watermelon

    What Can You Harvest in August in the Low Desert of ArizonaWhat Can You Harvest in August in the Low Desert of Arizona

    Which Flowers Bloom in August in the Low Desert of Arizona?

    It’s hard to believe anything can bloom in such hot weather, but several flowers bloom throughout the summer months. These blooms provide a bright pop of much-needed color during the heat.

    (Click on the link for each flower’s “How to Grow” blog post.)

    Possible blooms this month include amaranth, angelonia, basil, celosia, coreopsis, cosmos, four-o-clock, echinacea, gazania, gomphrena, lisianthus, portulaca, purple hyacinth bean vine, ratibida, rudbeckia, salvia, scabiosa, statice, strawflower, sunflower, tithonia, verbena, vinca, yarrow and zinnia.


    What to Plant Outside in August in the Low Desert: Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit

    (Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

    After August 15

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

    Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant vegetables in the low desert of Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

    What to Plant Outside in August_ Vegetables, Herbs & FruitWhat to Plant Outside in August_ Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit

    Which Seeds to Start Indoors in August: Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit

    (Click the link for seed sources)

    Here’s a link to my favorite seed-starting supplies on Amazon.


    Flowers to Plant Outside in August in The Low Desert

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Flower Seeds to Start Indoors in August

    (Click the link for seed sources)

    Flower Seeds to Start Indoors in AugustFlower Seeds to Start Indoors in August

    Arizona Annual Flowers Planting Calendar helps you learn when to plant flowers in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.


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    Angela Judd

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  • A Guide to Growing Foxglove in Hot Climates

    A Guide to Growing Foxglove in Hot Climates

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    Foxgloves are a showstopper in the cottage garden and cut flower arrangements. Hummingbirds and bees also love these beautiful flowers. Growing foxgloves is not as challenging as it may seem. Learn how to grow foxglove (even if you live in a hot climate like the low desert of Arizona) and add these stunning flowers to your garden.


    Article Outline

    1. About Foxgloves
    2. Choose a variety that blooms in its first year and start seeds indoors
    3. Plant foxgloves at the best time for your climate
    4. Select the best location for planting foxgloves
    5. Care for foxglove as it grows
    6. Foxglove cut flower tips


    About foxgloves

    A Guide to Growing Foxglove in Hot Climates

    First, let’s learn about these beautiful flowers, of which there are two types. “Biennials” are the oldest common varieties that grow easily in cooler climates. They form a rosette in the first year and bloom in the second year. They drop seeds and come back year after year. 

    However, in hot climates, foxgloves don’t survive the summer and won’t be around to bloom the second year. Luckily for us warm-season growers, there is another type: a hybrid “perennial” that can be grown as an annual and blooms its first year. Perennial foxglove is a cool-season hardy annual that grows well in hot climates when planted during the cooler months. It will bloom in spring.

    I’d also like to note that all parts of foxglove are poisonous. Use care and caution around pets and children. Now, on to the tips!


    Choose a variety that blooms in its first year and start seeds indoors

    First-year blooming types to try: 

    • Dalmation Peach: Full-looking blooms; creamy peach colored.
    • Camelot: Large full center spikes and good side shoots; flowers face outward instead of down in shades of lavender, rose, and white; 3-foot stalks.
    • Foxy: Dwarf variety grows well in containers; blooms are white, cream, purple, and rose.

    Surface sow seeds and cover lightly with vermiculite – light is required for germination. Mist lightly and use humidity domes until they germinate. Place under lights and grow indoors. For more information about starting seeds indoors, read this blog post. Click here to see my favorite seed-starting supplies on Amazon.


    Plant foxgloves at the best time for your climate

    Foxgloves are generally hardy to -10°F (-23°C). If foxgloves survive your winter’s coldest temperatures, plant seedlings in the garden 6 weeks before your first fall frost. If your winters are too cold, plant foxgloves outside 6-8 weeks before your last spring frost. Look up your frost dates here.

    In the low desert of Arizona, plant seedlings outdoors from September to October.

    Start seeds indoors about 12 weeks before you plant outside. For those in the low desert of Arizona, a good time to start seeds indoors is July to August.


    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9BPerpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.


    Select the best location for planting foxgloves

    The nice thing about foxgloves is that they don’t mind partial sun or shady conditions. If you live in a hot climate area, a shadier spot will help them last longer in the spring. Choose an area with rich, well-draining soil with plenty of added compost.

    Avoid overly wet soil in the winter. Foxgloves are susceptible to root rot, wilt, blight, powdery mildew, and fungal diseases. Reduce opportunities for disease by allowing good airflow between plants, avoiding water on leaves, and planting in well-draining soil. 

    Foxgloves with root rot, too much heat, and forming seeds

    Space foxgloves about 6″ (30cm) apart for cut flowers or about a foot apart (30cm) for landscape plants. Remember that foxglove blooms are typically quite tall, about 3 feet or more, so they look good against a fence or tall borders. 


    Care for foxglove as it grows

    After planting, the leaves grow and the plant goes somewhat dormant and grows slowly during the colder months of fall and winter. As temperatures warm in the spring, growth will take off, and flower shoots will form.  

    • Foxglove grows best in moist (not wet) soil; do not let them dry out. 
    • Mulch plants after planting. 
    • Add a thin layer of compost to the growing plants in the spring. 
    • Stake tall varieties

    Foxgloves are deer (and rabbit) resistant. However, possible pests include aphids, Japanese beetles, mealy bugs, and thrips. Generally, foxgloves are pest-free in my garden and easy to grow.

    November, December, and March
    April

    Foxglove cut flower tips

    If you want to use them as cut flowers, cut as soon as the first flower opens on the bottom—others will continue to open, but they won’t last as long once they’ve been pollinated. Blooms will last 6-8 days in a vase with a preservative. But I love leaving them in the landscape and enjoying the flowers and the wildlife they attract. 

    To keep blooms going, remove spent blooms right away. You usually get a few smaller spikes. You can also leave the blooms in place to collect seeds to plant next season. Remove spent plants at the end of the season; once temperatures get too hot, they will die back.

    If you live where it doesn’t get too hot, they may also survive and grow over the summer. 


    Sources for this article about how to grow foxglove: 


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    Angela Judd

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  • How to Grow Strawflowers: 5 Tips for Growing Strawflowers

    How to Grow Strawflowers: 5 Tips for Growing Strawflowers

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    Heat-loving and drought-tolerant strawflowers grow well in areas with hot summers (cue my happy dance!) Brightly-colored concentric rings adorn these tall-stemmed beauties. This Australian native is also called “Everlasting flower” or “paper flower”. Strawflowers are an excellent choice for a cutting garden and provide long-lasting blooms in the garden as well. Learn how to grow strawflowers with these five tips. 


    How to Grow Strawflowers 5 Tips for Growing Strawflowers

    Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    5 Tips for How to Grow Strawflowers


    1. Choose the best location for growing strawflowers

    Strawflowers grow best in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade. During the hottest months of the year in warm climates like the low desert of Arizona, strawflowers are happiest with some afternoon shade. 

    Strawflowers do well in most soils as long as it is well-draining. Add compost to the planting area before planting. 

    Give strawflowers enough room to grow well and allow for airflow. Depending on the variety, strawflowers grow between 2-3 feet (61-91 cm) tall and 6-18 inches (15-45 cm) wide. Larger varieties may need flower stakes to stay upright.

    How to Grow Strawflowers 5 Tips for Growing Strawflowers (12) (1)How to Grow Strawflowers 5 Tips for Growing Strawflowers (12) (1)

    2. Plant strawflowers at the right time

    In warm zones, start strawflower seeds outdoors directly in the soil when soil temperatures reach 65-70°F (18-21°C).

    • Sprinkle seeds lightly on the soil surface. Press into soil gently. The seeds need light to germinate, do not bury deeply. Keep soil moist until seeds sprout. 
    • Space seeds about 12 inches (30cm) apart. 
    • Seeds sprout in 1-3 weeks.

    Strawflower seedlings transplant well. If multiple sprouts appear, allow them to grow a few inches high and then carefully transplant them to other locations in the garden.

    In the low desert of Arizona, start strawflower seeds indoors from August through December. Plant seeds or transplants outside from October through February. 

    In cool zones, start strawflower seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost and transplant outside once nighttime temperatures are above 50°F (10°C).


    3. Care for strawflowers correctly as they grow

    • Mulch plants well to help retain moisture and keep down weeds in the soil. 
    • Water the root zone completely each time you water and then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out between watering. Do not let roots get soggy; they will rot. 
    • Apply an organic fertilizer occasionally throughout the growing season if desired. 
    • Cut the main stem when the flower is 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) tall to encourage branching.
    • Keep spent flowers deadheaded to encourage more blooms. 
    StrawflowerStrawflower

    For square foot gardening, allow 1 square foot per strawflower plant. 


    4. Harvest strawflowers at the right time for the longest-lasting and best-looking blooms

    Strawflowers make an excellent cut flower in fresh and dried arrangements. Depending on their intended use, strawflowers should be harvested at different times. 

    To harvest strawflowers for use in fresh arrangements:

    Harvest strawflowers when 3-4 sets of bracts (petals) are open but before any of the middle pollen is visible. Give the stem a slight wiggle – if it remains upright it is ready to harvest. If it wiggles, wait a bit longer to harvest. Cut the stem leaving 4 to 5 side shoots below. Strip leaves on stem before placing in water. 

    How to Grow Strawflowers: 5 Tips for Growing StrawflowersHow to Grow Strawflowers: 5 Tips for Growing Strawflowers
    To harvest strawflowers for drying:

    Strawflower petals (called bracts) are like stiff paper and hold their shape and color well as dried flowers. Harvest when only 2-3 bracts (petals) have unfurled and no yellow pollen is visible. Remove all leaves and hang flowers upside down to dry. The bracts will continue to open as it dries. A fan can speed the drying process.


    5. Save seeds from strawflowers to plant next season

    Once you’ve learned how to grow strawflowers, you can have seeds to plant for years to come. To save seeds, at the end of the season, leave the largest and prettiest blooms on the plant. The center of the bloom elongates and forms dandelion-like parachutes for each seed as it dries. Lift the parachutes up, and the small dark seeds will be attached or in the base of the flower.

    What do strawflower seeds look likeWhat do strawflower seeds look like
    The center of the flower elongates and dries
    What do strawflower seeds look likeWhat do strawflower seeds look like
    Dandelion-like parachutes form for each seed
    What do strawflower seeds look likeWhat do strawflower seeds look like
    The empty strawflower with just a few seeds
    What do strawflower seeds look likeWhat do strawflower seeds look like
    Strawflower seeds and parachutes


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    Angela Judd

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  • Tips for a Thriving Arizona Garden in June

    Tips for a Thriving Arizona Garden in June

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    If you spend time in an Arizona garden in June, bountiful harvests and stunning blooms are common at the beginning of the month. Early June fills harvest baskets as spring and warm-season crops finish up. However, it soon transitions from warm to hot weather, shifting the garden from production to survival.

    Arizona Garden in June

    June is typically the driest and one of the hottest months in the low desert of Arizona. The average monthly rainfall is just 0.12 inches, and the average temperature is 105°F (74°C). This can be a challenging month for your yard and garden as plants and trees adjust to the heat. What you do this month can help your plants survive the hot summer months ahead.

    June average temperatureJune average temperature

    What to do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

    Maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in June. Learn how to navigate the challenges of hot weather and ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, what to plant, and a helpful “June Garden Task Checklist“.

    When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June

    Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during June:

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June

    Low desert” includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.


    Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June

    Hot, dry temperatures affect the garden this month. Correct timing, watering, shade, and mulching are essential.

    • If you haven’t already, add a thick layer (3-5 inches) of mulch to your garden beds. I use the wood chip mulch from Arizona Worm Farm.
    • Harvest any remaining onions and garlic at the beginning of the month. Cure them indoors.
    • Use shade cloth to provide shade for annual vegetables or plant them in areas that receive afternoon shade. I use this shade cloth.
    • If your cucumbers are bitter, it might be the heat. Remove cucumber plants and plant Armenian-type cucumbers this month. They don’t get bitter.
    • Warm-season bush beans finish up this month. Plant heat-loving types like asparagus beans or black-eyed peas instead.
    • Once nighttime temperatures are over 75°F (24°C), tomato pollen may not be viable and new fruit may not form.1 If fruit is slow to ripen, bring tomatoes inside once they have a flush of color to finish ripening indoors. Learn more about how to turn green tomatoes red in this blog post.
    • Consider planting a cover crop in empty beds to keep soil alive over the summer. Learn more about cover crops in this article.
    • Start seeds indoors for a monsoon tomato planting. Check planting lists for additional seeds to start indoors.
    • Provide support for trellis-grown watermelon and cantaloupe as needed.
    • Clear out squash and other warm-season plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease.
    • Powdery mildew is common this month. Learn how to treat it in this blog post.
    AmaranthAmaranth
    Amaranth

    Possible Harvests This Month:

    Vegetables:

    Armenian Cucumbers, Butternut Squash, Pumpkins, Cucumbers, Summer Squash, Tomatoes, Eggplant, I’itoi onions, Okra, Swiss Chard, Onions, Peppers, Carrots, Mini Pumpkins, Leeks, Garlic, Beans, Tomatillos

    Herbs:

    Oregano, Sage, Basil, Dill Seeds, Parsley, Parsley Seeds, Rosemary, Thyme, Mint

    Fruit:

    Chichiquelite, Strawberries, Grapefruit, Figs, Apples, Peaches, Watermelon, Cantaloupe, Passionfruit, Grapes, Ground Cherries

    (click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June

    Vegetable Watering Guidelines:

    • June is often the hardest month for plants. Do not overwater or underwater this month. Both are harmful to plants. 
    • If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering. 
    • As temperatures heat up, annual vegetables will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again. 
    • I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
    Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead Take the summer off!Plant Heat-Tolerant Cover Crops Instead Take the summer off!

    SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL

    Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”

    Twice a month, I’ll share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert.

    Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!


    Low Desert Arizona in June: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month

    Squash BugsSquash Bugs
    Squash bug eggs, nymph, and adults

    Pests:

    • Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
    • Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
    3 Lined Cucumber Beetle3 Lined Cucumber Beetle
    Three-lined potato beetle eggs, larvae, and adult
    • Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
    • You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs took care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them off with water.
    • You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
    Leaf Cutter Bee DamageLeaf Cutter Bee Damage
    Damage from leaf-cutter bees
    Tomato Hornworm and FrassTomato Hornworm and Frass
    Tomato hornworm and frass
    • Spider mites are common on beans, especially in hot, dry conditions. Spray the area often with water to discourage them. If you need to treat, a combination of Safer Insect Killing Soap and Monterey Horticultural Oil can be effective. Use at sundown and then rinse the leaves well afterward to prevent burning. Follow package instructions and use sparingly– only on affected areas to prevent harming beneficial insects.
    Spider MitesSpider Mites
    Spider mites
    • Grapeleaf skeletonizers may be present on grape vines. If spotted early, you can handpick affected leaves and dispose of eggs and caterpillars. Once a large area is affected, you may need to treat it with Bt-Bacillus thuringiensis. Use only as directed and only on affected areas.
    Grape leaf skeletonizerGrape leaf skeletonizer
    Grapeleaf skeletonizer eggs and caterpillars
    • Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
    Leaf Footed bugLeaf Footed bug
    Leaf-footed eggs, nymphs, and adult

    Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:

    • Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves. I love watching them in the garden.
    • Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
    • Gulf fritillary butterflies in all stages, swallowtail butterflies, hummingbirds
    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June
    Bee on a sunflower and swallowtail butterfly


    Low Desert Arizona in June: Container Gardening Tips

    Put away small pots for the summerPut away small pots for the summer
    Put away small pots for the summer
    • If possible, put small containers away until the fall. The soil from the containers can be used as mulch or added to compost.
    • Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
    • Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.

    Container Watering Guidelines:

    • As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
    • If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
    • Add ollas to containers to help with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
    Use ollas and a moisture meter to help you with watering containersUse ollas and a moisture meter to help you with watering containers
    Use ollas and a moisture meter to help you with watering containers

    Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June
    • Plant sunflowers. Pops of yellow flowers brighten up a summer yard and attract birds. I love this branching variety.
    • To extend bloom, deadhead annual warm-season flowers such as zinnias, salvia, coreopsis, gaillardia, marigold, and cosmos. Read this post to learn about flowers that love hot summers. 
    • Roses continue to bloom this month. Keep spent blooms deadheaded and enjoy the blooms.
    • Enjoy hollyhock blooms. Save seeds to spread around your yard and share with friends. If the plants finish up, don’t pull them out. Cut stalks back to about 6 inches above the ground. 
    • Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of flowers.
    • If you aren’t leaving them in the soil, pull spent bulbs or corms from beds after the foliage completely dies. Store indoors and plant again in the fall.
    • Pinch back zinnia plants to encourage branching.

    Which Flowers Might Be Blooming This Month:

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June
    Echinacea, hollyhock, and strawflower

    Lisianthus, Scabiosa, Feverfew, Sunflowers, Passionflowers, Strawflowers, Dianthus, Statice, Hollyhocks, Vanity Verbena, Rudbeckia, Salvia, Roses, Everlasting Sweet Peas, Floss-Flower, Shasta Daisy, Echinacea, Yarrow, Gazania, Gomphrena, Gaillardia, Zinnia, Skyflower, Lobelia, Dahlia, Vinca, Coleus, Dara, Aster, Carnation, Angelonia, Cosmos, Black-Eyed Susan Vine, Alyssum, Larkspur, Campanula

    (click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June
    Lisianthus

    Flower Watering Guidelines:

    As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.


    Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9BPerpetual Flower Planting Calendar for Zone 9B

    Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
    PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.


    Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June
    Peach Tree
    • If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post.
    • Peach and fig harvests continue this month. Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests. Read this article for more information about how to grow peach trees.
    • Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
    • Anna’s apple harvests begin this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
    • Monitor grapes for harvest readiness.
    • Passionfruit flowers and fruits this month.
    • Shade newly-planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June
    Figs, grapes, and apples

    Citrus:

    • There will be some citrus fruit drop this month – “June Drop” – as the tree self-thins to what it can support through the summer. Adequate watering this month is important. June is typically the driest month of the year. 
    • Once citrus softens, it is time to remove the remaining fruit from the tree.
    • Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
    June DropJune Drop
    “June Drop” Citrus trees self-thin and drop fruit

    Fruit Watering Guidelines: 2, 3

    Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.

    • Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
    • Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
    • Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
    • Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days. 
    • Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
    Leaf Curling From Water StressLeaf Curling From Water Stress
    Extreme Leaf Curling From Water Stress

    Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

    • Keep basil cut back above two sets of leaves to encourage branching and a full plant.
    • Allow bolting/flowering dill, cilantro, fennel, and parsley to remain in the garden. This is one of the best ways to attract beneficial insects to your garden; learn more in this blog post.
    • Harvest perennial herbs like sage, rosemary & thyme lightly throughout the summer. Delay heavy pruning until fall.
    • Harvest oregano this month. It will flower soon. Enjoy and preserve the harvest by dehydrating or freeze-drying.
    Arizona Garden in JuneArizona Garden in June
    Lacewing eggs on dill, parsley seeds, and basil

    Herb Watering Guidelines:

    • As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
    • Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
    • Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.

    Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June

    Desert LandscapingDesert Landscaping
    • June is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
    • This month, do not add plants, trees, or shrubs to your landscape.
    • Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and June is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
    • Provide shade for new plantings (less than 1 year old) if they show signs of stress, and monitor the root ball to ensure it does not dry out. This blog post discusses different ways to provide shade.
    • If you have any stinknet in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread or remain in your yard. Remove it carefully if the flowers are dried and the plant is dead—it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
    Stinknet

    Landscape Watering Guidelines: 2

    • Give landscape plants a long, deep soak at the beginning of the month to prepare them for June’s hot, dry weather. Water should penetrate below the recommended 2-3 foot normal depths to leach the salts that build up in root zones and recharge the dry soil.
    • Desert-adapted trees, shrubs & vines every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 24-36″ trees / 18-24″ shrubs / 8-12″ vines).
    • High water use trees every 7-10 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
    • High water use shrubs every 5-7 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
    • High water use vines every 2-5 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
    Dwarf Chaste TreeDwarf Chaste Tree
    Dwarf Chaste Tree

    Arizona Garden in June Checklist:

    June Garden ChecklistJune Garden Checklist

    Download your printable copy of the June Garden Checklist:



    Which Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to Plant in the Low Desert in June


    PlantingPlanting

    (Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Vegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert VegetablesVegetable Planting Guide: A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Vegetables

    Arizona Vegetable Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant vegetables in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

    With 50 vegetables listed that grow well in Arizona’s low desert, you are sure to find one to try. 


    Low Desert Arizona in June: Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors

    Starting SeedsStarting Seeds

    (Click the link for seed sources.)


    Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers


    Which Flowers to Plant in the Low Desert of Arizona in June

    GomphrenaGomphrena
    Gomphrena
    • Angelonia (T)
    • Celosia* thru the 15th (T)
    • Coleus* thru the 15th (T)
    • Cosmos (S)
    • Cosmos (sulfur) (S)
    • Four O’Clock (S)
    • Gomphrena (T)
    • Portulaca / Moss Rose (ST)
    • Purslane (ST)
    • Rain Lily (bulb)
    • Sunflower (S)
    • Vinca (T)
    • Zinnia (ST)

    SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant


    Low Desert Arizona in June: Flower seeds to start indoors

    Verbena

    (Click the link for seed source.)

    Vanity Verbena


    If this post about low desert Arizona gardening in June was helpful, please share it:


    Sources:

    1 – For further reading, please refer to the original article: “University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. (2023). Key Strategies for Soybean Management.” https://sites.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=4489.

    2 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.

    3 – https://extension.arizona.edu/sites/extension.arizona.edu/files/pubs/az1151-2021%20%282%29.pdf

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    Angela Judd

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  • How to Grow Rosemary: 5 Tips for Growing Rosemary

    How to Grow Rosemary: 5 Tips for Growing Rosemary

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    Rosemary, a resilient Mediterranean native, is a beautiful ornamental landscape plant, a prized edible herb, and an excellent companion plant for your vegetable garden. Its heat and drought tolerance make it one of the easiest plants to grow.

    How to Grow Rosemary

    Although rosemary is easy to grow, it’s also easy to kill. Learn what to do (and what not to do) when growing rosemary with the tips in this article. Here are five tips to help beginner and experienced gardeners get started growing rosemary.

    5 Tips for How to Grow Rosemary


    1. Don’t plant it in your garden beds full of rich soil

    Rosemary struggles when grown in rich soil. Instead, plant it on the outskirts of your garden in native, slightly alkaline soil with a pH level of around 7. The beautiful purple flowers will attract bees and wildlife to your garden. 

    Bees on Rosemary FlowersBees on Rosemary Flowers
    Flowering rosemary attracts bees

    Well-draining soil is essential for rosemary. This means the soil should be able to drain water quickly, preventing the roots from sitting in water for too long. This plant is susceptible to root rot and other moisture-related conditions, which can turn it yellow, wilt, and eventually lead to its demise. Understanding and providing the right soil conditions is key to maintaining a healthy rosemary plant. 

    Root Rot in RosemaryRoot Rot in Rosemary
    Root rot

    Rosemary thrives in full sun and prefers temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C). It tolerates full sun even in Arizona’s low desert. 

    How to Grow RosemaryHow to Grow Rosemary
    Rosemary does well in hot, dry conditions

    2. Plant from transplant; rosemary is not easily grown from seeds

    Growing rosemary from seeds is notoriously tricky. It’s best to plant transplants. When choosing transplants, choose vigorous plants with healthy leaves. Before purchasing, remove the transplant from the container to ensure it is not overgrown or rootbound. 

    How to grow rosemary in a containerHow to grow rosemary in a container

    The best time to plant rosemary will vary depending on your location. It is generally recommended to wait until the last frost has passed before planting. Older plants tolerate frost, but young plants like warm soil to help them get established. 

    Plant rosemary from fall to early spring if you live in a mild winter climate. In the low desert of Arizona, plant rosemary from October to November and from February through April for the best results. Give plants ample time to establish their roots before the summer heat sets in. This low desert planting guide is available in my shop.

    When to plant rosemary in ArizonaWhen to plant rosemary in Arizona
    Planting guide for the low desert of Arizona

    In zones 8 and higher, rosemary is grown as a perennial and can grow large (several feet (1 m) wide and tall ). Give rosemary room to grow. 

    Live in a humid area? Provide plenty of airflow; don’t crowd (allow 2-4 feet (.6-1.2 m) in every direction), and ensure it has good drainage. In zones 7 and lower, grow in a container and bring it indoors during the winter.

    Terra cotta pots are a good choice for growing rosemary in containers. The porous nature of terra cotta allows the plant to dry out between waterings, which helps prevent root rot.  


    3. Don’t stress over caring for rosemary

    Rosemary thrives on neglect, making it a low-maintenance addition to your garden. Water it often until it establishes, then let it do its thing. Just remember to let the soil dry out between waterings and avoid over-soaking. It’s as simple as that! Read this post, “How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates,” for more tips about caring for herbs.

    How to Grow RosemaryHow to Grow Rosemary

    An annual light top dressing of compost or mulch in early spring nourishes the microbial life in the soil. Additional fertilizer is not recommended.


    4. Harvest rosemary – but not too much!

    It’s best not to prune more than ⅓ of the plant at one time. If desired, prune lightly each spring or fall for shape. This means removing the top few inches of the plant to encourage bushier growth. Cutting back more than that or extensive pruning during the year’s hottest months will stress the plant. 

    Harvest individual sprigs as needed. Young stems have the freshest flavor. Rosemary flowers have a more subtle flavor than the leaves but are edible and make a beautiful garnish.

    If you can grow rosemary year-round, use it fresh; there is no need to preserve it. Young stems have the most flavor. I rarely preserve it. However, you can preserve it by drying, freeze-drying, or freezing.

    Using RosemaryUsing Rosemary

    Strip rosemary leaves before drying and storing. To strip leaves from the stem, hold the tip and pull it upward through pinched fingers or a grater.

    Using RosemaryUsing Rosemary

    5. Propagate unlimited rosemary from cuttings

    Unlock the potential of unlimited rosemary with propagation. It’s a breeze to propagate in late winter or early spring.

    How to Propagate RosemaryHow to Propagate Rosemary

    Choose young shoots that aren’t flowering and are 6-8 inches long. Remove the bottom half of the leaves and root in water. Change the water every few days to keep the environment oxygenated and prevent rotting.

    How to Propagate RosemaryHow to Propagate Rosemary

    After a few weeks, you should notice root hairs forming in the water. Pot up the rooted cuttings when several roots are an inch or more long. It’s an exciting process and fun to grow new plants.

    To learn about other herbs that thrive in hot climates, read this post, “10 Perennial Herbs for Hot Summer Climates“.


    Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.


    If this post about how to grow rosemary was helpful, please share it:


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  • How to Grow Cucamelons

    How to Grow Cucamelons

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    Wondering how to grow cucamelons? You’ve come to the right place. Cucamelons may look like a mouse-sized watermelon, but they taste like a cucumber with a citrus kick. Called “sandía de raton” (or “watermelon for a mouse”) in Mexico, cucamelons are also called Mexican Sour Gherkin and Mouse Melon

    No matter what you call them, cucamelons are easy to grow and resistant to pests and disease. Learn how to grow cucamelons and add this crunchy, vitamin-packed fruit to your garden. 

    How to Grow Cucamelons

    Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    6 Tips for How to Grow Cucamelons


    1. Understand how cucamelons grow

    Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but if cared for properly can live for several seasons. Over the course of a season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber

    At the end of the season in cold climates, dig out and remove the tuber to overwinter in a sheltered location. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring.

    How to grow cucamelonsHow to grow cucamelons

    2. Plant cucamelons at the right time

    Cucamelons thrive in warm, humid weather. Plant cucamelons outside after all danger of frost has passed in the spring, and nighttime temperatures have warmed to about 50℉. 

    In the low desert of Arizona (and many other hot summer areas), here are the planting dates for cucamelons:

    Start seeds indoors: December – March and June – August

    Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

    In Arizona, spring-planted cucamelons may not produce until cooler temperatures come in the fall. You may get a spring and a fall harvest if you can keep the plant alive over the summer. 

    The larger spring-planted cucamelon plants often yield a larger harvest than fall-planted cucamelons. The trick with growing cucamelons in dry, hot summer areas like Arizona is to have them survive the summer heat. 

    How to grow cucamelonsHow to grow cucamelons

    Perpetual Herb, Fruit & Vegetable Planting Calendar Zone 9bPerpetual Herb, Fruit & Vegetable Planting Calendar Zone 9b
    • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    • HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
    • Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).

    3. Plant cucamelons from seed or transplants in the correct location

    In all but the warmest areas, give cucamelons full sun. In very hot summer areas, grow cucamelons in a spot with afternoon shade. 

    Plant cucamelon seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep. Seeds generally take between 7-14 days to germinate. Because cucamelon seeds germinate slowly, it can be difficult to start them outdoors. You may want to start seeds indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost, and then transplant them outside. You can also look for transplants at local nurseries. 

    Space cucamelon plants and seeds about a foot apart in a location with compost-rich, well-draining soil. 

    How to grow cucamelons in square foot gardening:

    Plant one cucamelon plant per square. Plant the cucamelon on the edge of the garden bed and give them something to climb. 

    How to grow cucamelons in containersHow to grow cucamelons in containers

    How to grow cucamelons in containers: 

    • Grow one plant in a large 12-18 inch container (at least 5 gallons).
    • Give cucamelons in containers something to climb

    4. Care for growing cucamelons

    • Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering.  
    • Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting.
    • Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.
    • Cucamelons produce male and female flowers. Male flowers wither and die; female flowers develop into fruit after pollination.  
    How to grow cucamelonsHow to grow cucamelons

    5. Give cucamelons something to climb

    Cucamelons are a sprawling vine that can be difficult to contain. Provide a trellis for the tendrils to climb as the cucamelon vines grow. Growing cucamelons vertically on a trellis allows for better airflow and helps prevent damage from feet and pests. Ripe cucamelons grown on a trellis are also easier to spot and thus harvest.

    HOW TO GROW CUCAMELONSHOW TO GROW CUCAMELONS

    Vertical Gardening IdeasVertical Gardening Ideas

    Ten More Ideas for Vertical GardeningTen More Ideas for Vertical Gardening

    6. Harvest cucamelons at the right time

    Cucamelons typically begin producing 65-75 days after transplanting. Harvest cucamelons when the fruits are the size of small grapes, firm, and bright green. 

    Cucamelons left on the vine past their prime will soften and develop a yellow tint. Pick cucamelons often to encourage production. Leaving cucamelons on the plant signals to the plant to stop producing.

    Eat cucamelons fresh like grapes (our favorite way) or slice them and add them to salads. Enjoy them pickled (so cute!) or even added to salsa

    Harvested cucamelons will store for 5-7 days in the fridge. I love using these containers to help my produce last longer.


    Bonus Tip: Save seeds from cucamelons to plant and share

    At the end of the season, leave a few cucamelons on the vine until they are very overripe, soft, and yellow. These are the perfect stage to save seeds from. 

    How to save cucamelon seeds: 

    • Cut cucamelons in half and scrape seeds into a half-pint glass canning jar.
    • Fill the jar partway with water.
    • Allow the water to ferment for 1-2 days (not longer); this removes the gel covering around the seed that prevents germination. 
    • Remove the seeds and pulp that float to the top of the water. 
    • Rinse off the seeds that settle on the bottom of the jar, and let them dry on a paper plate.
    • Store in a paper seed sleeve in a cool, dry location.

    Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.


    If this post about how to grow cucamelons was helpful, please share it:

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  • How to Grow Cucamelons

    How to Grow Cucamelons

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    Wondering how to grow cucamelons? You’ve come to the right place. Cucamelons may look like a mouse-sized watermelon, but they taste like a cucumber with a citrus kick. Called “sandía de raton” (or “watermelon for a mouse”) in Mexico, cucamelons are also called Mexican Sour Gherkin and Mouse Melon

    No matter what you call them, cucamelons are easy to grow and resistant to pests and disease. Learn how to grow cucamelons and add this crunchy, vitamin-packed fruit to your garden. 

    How to Grow Cucamelons

    Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    6 Tips for How to Grow Cucamelons


    1. Understand how cucamelons grow

    Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but if cared for properly can live for several seasons. Over the course of a season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber

    At the end of the season in cold climates, dig out and remove the tuber to overwinter in a sheltered location. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring.

    How to grow cucamelonsHow to grow cucamelons

    2. Plant cucamelons at the right time

    Cucamelons thrive in warm, humid weather. Plant cucamelons outside after all danger of frost has passed in the spring, and nighttime temperatures have warmed to about 50℉. 

    In the low desert of Arizona (and many other hot summer areas), here are the planting dates for cucamelons:

    Start seeds indoors: December – March and June – August

    Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

    In Arizona, spring-planted cucamelons may not produce until cooler temperatures come in the fall. You may get a spring and a fall harvest if you can keep the plant alive over the summer. 

    The larger spring-planted cucamelon plants often yield a larger harvest than fall-planted cucamelons. The trick with growing cucamelons in dry, hot summer areas like Arizona is to have them survive the summer heat. 

    How to grow cucamelonsHow to grow cucamelons

    Perpetual Herb, Fruit & Vegetable Planting Calendar Zone 9bPerpetual Herb, Fruit & Vegetable Planting Calendar Zone 9b
    • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
    • HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
    • Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).

    3. Plant cucamelons from seed or transplants in the correct location

    In all but the warmest areas, give cucamelons full sun. In very hot summer areas, grow cucamelons in a spot with afternoon shade. 

    Plant cucamelon seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep. Seeds generally take between 7-14 days to germinate. Because cucamelon seeds germinate slowly, it can be difficult to start them outdoors. You may want to start seeds indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost, and then transplant them outside. You can also look for transplants at local nurseries. 

    Space cucamelon plants and seeds about a foot apart in a location with compost-rich, well-draining soil. 

    How to grow cucamelons in square foot gardening:

    Plant one cucamelon plant per square. Plant the cucamelon on the edge of the garden bed and give them something to climb. 

    How to grow cucamelons in containersHow to grow cucamelons in containers

    How to grow cucamelons in containers: 

    • Grow one plant in a large 12-18 inch container (at least 5 gallons).
    • Give cucamelons in containers something to climb

    4. Care for growing cucamelons

    • Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering.  
    • Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting.
    • Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.
    • Cucamelons produce male and female flowers. Male flowers wither and die; female flowers develop into fruit after pollination.  
    How to grow cucamelonsHow to grow cucamelons

    5. Give cucamelons something to climb

    Cucamelons are a sprawling vine that can be difficult to contain. Provide a trellis for the tendrils to climb as the cucamelon vines grow. Growing cucamelons vertically on a trellis allows for better airflow and helps prevent damage from feet and pests. Ripe cucamelons grown on a trellis are also easier to spot and thus harvest.

    HOW TO GROW CUCAMELONSHOW TO GROW CUCAMELONS

    Vertical Gardening IdeasVertical Gardening Ideas

    Ten More Ideas for Vertical GardeningTen More Ideas for Vertical Gardening

    6. Harvest cucamelons at the right time

    Cucamelons typically begin producing 65-75 days after transplanting. Harvest cucamelons when the fruits are the size of small grapes, firm, and bright green. 

    Cucamelons left on the vine past their prime will soften and develop a yellow tint. Pick cucamelons often to encourage production. Leaving cucamelons on the plant signals to the plant to stop producing.

    Eat cucamelons fresh like grapes (our favorite way) or slice them and add them to salads. Enjoy them pickled (so cute!) or even added to salsa

    Harvested cucamelons will store for 5-7 days in the fridge. I love using these containers to help my produce last longer.


    Bonus Tip: Save seeds from cucamelons to plant and share

    At the end of the season, leave a few cucamelons on the vine until they are very overripe, soft, and yellow. These are the perfect stage to save seeds from. 

    How to save cucamelon seeds: 

    • Cut cucamelons in half and scrape seeds into a half-pint glass canning jar.
    • Fill the jar partway with water.
    • Allow the water to ferment for 1-2 days (not longer); this removes the gel covering around the seed that prevents germination. 
    • Remove the seeds and pulp that float to the top of the water. 
    • Rinse off the seeds that settle on the bottom of the jar, and let them dry on a paper plate.
    • Store in a paper seed sleeve in a cool, dry location.

    Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.


    If this post about how to grow cucamelons was helpful, please share it:

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    Angela Judd

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  • 10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

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    Citrus is easy to grow in warm climates, but it is important to avoid a few key citrus growing mistakes many home citrus growers make. Learn from others’ mistakes and enjoy better-tasting citrus fruit for years to come.  

    The information in this blog post about citrus growing mistakes is for citrus planted in the ground in warm climates that can grow citrus outdoors year round. Read this article about how to grow citrus in containers for cooler climates.


    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

    Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes


    Citrus Growing Mistake #1: Planting a tree without trying the fruit

    Citrus Growing Mistake #1: Planting a tree without trying the fruitCitrus Growing Mistake #1: Planting a tree without trying the fruit

    There are dozens of varieties of citrus. Choose a type you will eat and enjoy – do a little research about the varieties you are considering.

    Try to sample the fruit – this is another advantage of purchasing from a local grower, they often have mature varieties growing. 

    Does the fruit have seeds? Do you like the taste? Citrus trees are long-lived and produce hundreds of pounds of fruit. Make sure you like the fruit. 



    Citrus Growing Mistake #2: Planting at the wrong time of year

    Citrus Growing Mistake #2: Planting at the wrong time of yearCitrus Growing Mistake #2: Planting at the wrong time of year

    Citrus is frost-sensitive; plant it after danger of frost is passed. In hot climate areas (like the low desert of Arizona), don’t wait too long in the spring. Planting earlier in the spring allows roots to get established before the heat of the summer. Citrus roots grow and develop quickly in the spring. 

    In the low desert of Arizona, do not plant citrus from June through mid-September.

    There is a second planting window in the fall but be aware newly-planted citrus is more susceptible to frost damage. Cover young citrus during frost events.

    Local nurseries have citrus in stock but it may not be the best time to plantLocal nurseries have citrus in stock but it may not be the best time to plant

    Be an informed consumer. Local retailers may have citrus in stock all year long, but do not purchase if it’s not the right time of year to plant citrus in your area. 


    Citrus Growing Mistake #3: Planting the wrong size for the space available

    Citrus Growing Mistake #3: Planting the wrong size for the space availableCitrus Growing Mistake #3: Planting the wrong size for the space available

    Allow enough space for trees to reach their mature size. Over-planting causes problems with restricted sunlight and airflow around trees. 

    Plant far enough away from buildings, fences, and property lines to allow the tree to reach maturity. It’s easy to make this citrus growing mistake; young citrus trees can look deceivingly small. 

    Dwarf varieties produce the same quality and size of fruit but yield about half as much fruit.


    Dwarf varieties produce the same quality and size of fruit but yield about half as much fruit.Dwarf varieties produce the same quality and size of fruit but yield about half as much fruit.

    Dwarf varieties produce the same quality and size of fruit but yield about half as much fruit.


    Semi-dwarf trees are usually 12-15 feet tall and wide. Semi-dwarf trees are usually 12-15 feet tall and wide.

    Semi-dwarf trees are usually 12-15 feet tall and wide.


    Standard-size trees are usually 20-25 feet tall and 16-18 feet wide, depending on the variety. Standard-size trees are usually 20-25 feet tall and 16-18 feet wide, depending on the variety.

    Standard-size trees are usually 20-25 feet tall and 16-18 feet wide, depending on the variety.


    Citrus Growing Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeply

    Citrus Growing Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeplyCitrus Growing Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeply

    This is one of the most common citrus growing mistakes. Different citrus types are always grafted onto a root-stalk.

    Graft union of a citrus treeGraft union of a citrus tree

    Look at the trunk and you will see the graft.

    top of root ball of a citrus treetop of root ball of a citrus tree

    Do not bury the graft; instead, plant at the level of the root ball (not necessarily the level they were in the nursery pot).

    Before you purchase a tree, dig around the soil to ensure they didn’t put a smaller plant in a larger pot and fill it with soil. Roots should be close to the surface

    Citrus Growing Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeplyCitrus Growing Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeply

    It’s best to plant trees with the root ball at the level of planting or a little bit higher. Dig a hole as deep (but not any deeper) as the root ball (but 3-5 times as wide).

    If a tree is planted too deeply, it can have problems for life: disease and pest issues, lower fruit production, and finally death.


    Citrus Growing Mistake #5: Amending the planting hole with rich soil or compost

    Citrus Growing Mistake #5: Amending the planting hole with rich soil or compostCitrus Growing Mistake #5: Amending the planting hole with rich soil or compost

    When you plant the citrus tree, backfill the planting hole with the same native soil that was removed. If you amend the soil with compost and rich soil, you are creating a small area for the roots to find everything they need. 

    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes Citrus Growing Mistake #5: Amending the planting hole with rich soil or compost10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes Citrus Growing Mistake #5: Amending the planting hole with rich soil or compost

    Backfilling with compost and rich soil may create a smaller root system and a weaker tree. 

    Backfilling with native soil stimulates the roots to spread and seek out nutrients in the surrounding soil.

    Native soil encourages a larger root system that anchors and strengthens the tree.


    Citrus Growing Mistake #6: Not watering deeply enough

    Citrus Growing Mistake #6: Not watering deeply enoughCitrus Growing Mistake #6: Not watering deeply enough

    Problems with citrus can often be traced back to insufficient or improper watering. Watering correctly is the most important thing you can do for healthy trees. 

    Learn how to recognize when citrus trees need water, and water as needed. 

    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

    Citrus leaves that droop or curl inward are a sign of insufficient water. Leaves that have plenty of water are usually flat or curled slightly downward. 

    Newly-planted and young citrus trees need watering more often. 

    Once established, citrus trees do best with slow, deep infrequent water that encourage the roots to go deeper to find the water. 

    Use a soil probe to check watering depth on citrusUse a soil probe to check watering depth on citrus

    Water to a depth of at least 18-24 inches and up to 3 feet for mature trees each time you water. Use a soil probe to determine how deeply the water penetrates. 

    Use a soil probe to check watering depth on citrusUse a soil probe to check watering depth on citrus

    Use a soil probe to measure how deeply water penetrates.

    Use a soil probe to check watering depth on citrusUse a soil probe to check watering depth on citrus

    The soil probe will penetrate through wet soil

    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes Citrus Growing Mistake #6: Not watering deeply enough10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes Citrus Growing Mistake #6: Not watering deeply enough

    Citrus roots need air as well as water. Allow the top several inches of soil to dry out before you water again. Overwatering leads to root rot. 

    The publication “Irrigating Citrus Trees” from the University of Arizona Extension Office has general guidelines for watering intervals.


    Citrus Growing Mistake #7: Skirting and over-pruning citrus trees

    Citrus Growing Mistake #7: Skirting and over-pruning citrus treesCitrus Growing Mistake #7: Skirting and over-pruning citrus trees
    Reasons not to skirt citrusReasons not to skirt citrus

    Unlike deciduous fruit trees, citrus trees do not require pruning

    Leaving the tree limbs near the ground helps maintain soil moisture and reduce soil temperature. 

    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

    Removing all these limbs is called “skirting”. Skirting trees is a common citrus growing mistake. 

    • Prune dead or crossing branches.
    • Do not prune in the summer; this exposes bark to sun damage. 
    • Cutting off new growth reduces the amount of fruit produced. 
    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

    Prune suckers below the graft union, and sprouts (long, fast-growing shoots heading straight up).


    Citrus Growing Mistake #8: Not fertilizing citrus trees

    Citrus Growing Mistake #8: Not fertilizing citrus treesCitrus Growing Mistake #8: Not fertilizing citrus trees

    Citrus are heavy feeders and need sufficient soil nutrients year-round.

    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

    Leaf discoloration and pale citrus leaves are often caused by nutrient deficiencies – usually iron, magnesium, and nitrogen. 

    Use an organic fertilizer developed for citrus trees and apply it according to package directions throughout the year.

    Fruit Tree FertilizerFruit Tree Fertilizer

    Water well before and after applying fertilizer. 

    In the low desert of Arizona, our fertilizer application dates are typically Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day. 

    In the low desert of Arizona, our fertilizer application dates are typically Valentine's Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day. In the low desert of Arizona, our fertilizer application dates are typically Valentine's Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day. 

    Citrus Growing Mistake #9: Exposing bark to sunlight

    Citrus Growing Mistake #9: Exposing bark to sunlightCitrus Growing Mistake #9: Exposing bark to sunlight

    Citrus bark is easily sunburned. Avoid exposing bark by not skirting trees (see mistake #7), and protect exposed bark from direct sunlight.


    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes


    Citrus Growing Mistake #10: Not harvesting fruit

    10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes

    Leaving overripe fruit on the tree invites insects, birds, and rodents to your tree. 

    Citrus harvests usually begin in late fall and carry over into spring. Sample fruit at the beginning of the harvest window for that type of tree to see if it is ripe. Citrus often remains ripe on the tree for several weeks. Enjoy it! 

    Once the fruit begins to soften and drop, get all the fruit off the tree. This is a simple citrus growing mistake to remedy. Clean-up any fallen fruit to discourage pests and rodents. 


    More Citrus Information:

    TYPES OF CITRUS TREES – VARIETIES OF CITRUS - Which type of citrus should I plant - #choosingcitrus #citrusTYPES OF CITRUS TREES – VARIETIES OF CITRUS - Which type of citrus should I plant - #choosingcitrus #citrus

    Questions to ask when planting citrus #whichtypeofcitrusQuestions to ask when planting citrus #whichtypeofcitrus

    How to grow citrus in Arizona #arizonacitrus #citrusHow to grow citrus in Arizona #arizonacitrus #citrus

    Three tips for juicing oranges #juicing #orangejuice #oranges #citrusThree tips for juicing oranges #juicing #orangejuice #oranges #citrus

    Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.


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  • What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona

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    In the low desert of Arizona, creating a fruitful food forest all year round is possible with the right knowledge and plant selection. Imagine stepping into your backyard to find a variety of ready-to-pick fruits each season. This guide will help you learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona.

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona
    Figs

    Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in ArizonaWhat to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona
    Peaches

    Food Forest Benefits

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in ArizonaWhat to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona

    A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.

    Citrus

    The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.


    Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in ArizonaWhat to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona
    Anna apples

    Understanding Chill Hours:

    To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.

    In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range.  If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

    You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.

    Wonderful pomegranates

    Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.

    Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones

    Bananas

    When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.


    Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests

    Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.

    Pomegranates

    Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona

    Lemons

    Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (JanuaryMarch Harvests)

    • Navel Orange
    • Cara Cara Red Navel
    • Minneola Tangelo
    • Blood Oranges
    • Variegated Pink Eureka Lemon
    • Most varieties of Grapefruits
    • Valencia Oranges (through May)
    Mulberries

    Arizona Food Forest Spring Fruits (April June Harvests)

    • Katy Apricot
    • Gold Kist Apricot
    • Bonanza Miniature Peach
    • Earligrande Peach
    • Desert Gold Peach
    • Tropical Beauty Peach
    • Eva’s Pride Peach
    • Methley Plum
    • Dwarf Mulberry
    • White Pakistan Mulberry
    • Everbearing Mulberry
    • Guava Kilo
    • Thai White Guava
    • Dwarf Black Mulberry (also fruits in fall)
    • Wolfberry (also fruits in fall)
    • Anna Apple
    Peaches

    Summer Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (JulySeptember Harvests)

    • Early Amber Peach
    • Mid-Pride Peach
    • Donut Peach
    • Janice Seedless Kadota Fig
    • Desert King Fig
    • Red Flame Seedless Grape
    • Mexican Lime (can fruit all year)
    • Biew Kiew Longan
    • Banana (also fruits in fall)
    • Dorsett Golden Apple
    • Flordahome Pear
    • Jojoba
    Passionfruit

    Arizona Food Forest Fall Fruits (OctoberDecember Harvests)

    • Kieffer Pear
    • Contorted Jujube
    • Li Jujube
    • Parfianka Pomegranate
    • Wonderful Pomegranate
    • Koroneiki Olive
    • Manzanillo Olive
    • Sugar Cane (also harvested in early winter)
    • Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
    • Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
    • Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
    • Kumquats (through March)
    • Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
    • Eureka Lemon
    • Lisbon Lemon
    • Bearss Lime
    • Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)
    Pomegranates

    These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.


    Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees

    Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.

    Feeding fruit trees with compost

    Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest

    When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.

    Guavas

    Note:

    This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.

    Peaches

    Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey

    Grow a food forest and harvest fruit every day of the year. Learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona. Grow a food forest and harvest fruit every day of the year. Learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona.
    Anna apples

    When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:

    • Local Agricultural Extension Office: These folks are a goldmine of knowledge on regional-specific planting.
    • Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
    • Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
    • Gaia’s Garden by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
    • Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth” – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein. A comprehensive guide to creating your own home ecosystem.

    Remember, don’t just rely on one source; tap into several to get a well-rounded view.


    If this post about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona was helpful, please share it:

    [ad_2]

    Angela Judd

    Source link

  • What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona

    [ad_1]

    In the low desert of Arizona, creating a fruitful food forest all year round is possible with the right knowledge and plant selection. Imagine stepping into your backyard to find a variety of ready-to-pick fruits each season. This guide will help you learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona.

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona
    Figs

    Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in ArizonaWhat to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona
    Peaches

    Food Forest Benefits

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in ArizonaWhat to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona

    A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.

    Citrus

    The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.


    Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests

    What to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in ArizonaWhat to Plant for Year-Round Fruit Tree Harvests in Arizona
    Anna apples

    Understanding Chill Hours:

    To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.

    In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range.  If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.

    You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.

    Wonderful pomegranates

    Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.

    Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones

    Bananas

    When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.


    Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests

    Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.

    Pomegranates

    Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona

    Lemons

    Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (JanuaryMarch Harvests)

    • Navel Orange
    • Cara Cara Red Navel
    • Minneola Tangelo
    • Blood Oranges
    • Variegated Pink Eureka Lemon
    • Most varieties of Grapefruits
    • Valencia Oranges (through May)
    Mulberries

    Arizona Food Forest Spring Fruits (April June Harvests)

    • Katy Apricot
    • Gold Kist Apricot
    • Bonanza Miniature Peach
    • Earligrande Peach
    • Desert Gold Peach
    • Tropical Beauty Peach
    • Eva’s Pride Peach
    • Methley Plum
    • Dwarf Mulberry
    • White Pakistan Mulberry
    • Everbearing Mulberry
    • Guava Kilo
    • Thai White Guava
    • Dwarf Black Mulberry (also fruits in fall)
    • Wolfberry (also fruits in fall)
    • Anna Apple
    Peaches

    Summer Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (JulySeptember Harvests)

    • Early Amber Peach
    • Mid-Pride Peach
    • Donut Peach
    • Janice Seedless Kadota Fig
    • Desert King Fig
    • Red Flame Seedless Grape
    • Mexican Lime (can fruit all year)
    • Biew Kiew Longan
    • Banana (also fruits in fall)
    • Dorsett Golden Apple
    • Flordahome Pear
    • Jojoba
    Passionfruit

    Arizona Food Forest Fall Fruits (OctoberDecember Harvests)

    • Kieffer Pear
    • Contorted Jujube
    • Li Jujube
    • Parfianka Pomegranate
    • Wonderful Pomegranate
    • Koroneiki Olive
    • Manzanillo Olive
    • Sugar Cane (also harvested in early winter)
    • Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
    • Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
    • Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
    • Kumquats (through March)
    • Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
    • Eureka Lemon
    • Lisbon Lemon
    • Bearss Lime
    • Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)
    Pomegranates

    These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.


    Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees

    Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.

    Feeding fruit trees with compost

    Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest

    When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.

    Guavas

    Note:

    This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.

    Peaches

    Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey

    Grow a food forest and harvest fruit every day of the year. Learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona. Grow a food forest and harvest fruit every day of the year. Learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona.
    Anna apples

    When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:

    • Local Agricultural Extension Office: These folks are a goldmine of knowledge on regional-specific planting.
    • Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
    • Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
    • Gaia’s Garden by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
    • Practical Permaculture for Home Landscapes, Your Community and the Whole Earth” – Jessi Bloom & Dave Boehnlein. A comprehensive guide to creating your own home ecosystem.

    Remember, don’t just rely on one source; tap into several to get a well-rounded view.


    If this post about what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona was helpful, please share it:

    [ad_2]

    Angela Judd

    Source link

  • How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

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    If your property has access to flood irrigation, you know the benefits of deep watering for your landscape plants and trees. However, flooding your garden every 13 days may not be practical for watering raised beds and vegetable gardens. There is a way to water your garden using flood irrigation water that works well. This blog post explains how to install a flood irrigation system to effectively water your garden and raised beds. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    After the initial effort and investment, it is a low-cost solution for watering your garden. Not only does this method avoid the chemicals associated with treated water, but it is also much less expensive for the home gardener. Let’s dive into how to water your garden and yard using flood irrigation.


    What is flood irrigation?

    Flood irrigation is a system that captures and uses excess water from rainfall or snowmelt and provides a natural, chemical-free water source for your plants.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    In the Phoenix Valley, most irrigation water originates from SRP’s 13,000-square-mile watershed. It channels melted snow and rain into the Verde and Salt rivers. SRP then routes the irrigation water to the customer through lakes, dams, canals, and laterals.1

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Homeowners in flood-irrigated areas have access to irrigation runs every 13 days with a dry-up period (for canal repairs) during the winter. The average cost for irrigation water is $6.80 per hour.

    According to AMWUA, ”about 22,000 homeowners receive flood irrigation or about 5 percent of SRP lands.”2

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    My property does not have flood irrigation (I wish it did!), but my neighbor Larry Burnett‘s property does. I’m sharing the method he developed to use flood irrigation to water his garden.

    Larry cleared the use of this method for his property with the Roosevelt Water Conservation District. Check with local authorities to ensure you comply with local laws or water regulations. 


    What are the benefits of flood-irrigated water? 

    Flood irrigation offers a cost-effective, untreated water source rich in nutrients that promotes robust root systems by storing water deeper in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering and saline buildup. This method helps protect vegetation from drought and significantly reduces water evaporation compared to traditional sprinklers.1


    What are the challenges of using flood irrigation to water your garden? 

    • Gardens often need watering more often than every 13 days. 
    • You need more control over the amount of water than flooding with irrigated water offers. 
    • Flood irrigation relies on gravity, so water can’t reach raised beds or other elevated areas. 
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to water your garden and landscape plants with flood irrigation


    1. Install a storage tank (or multiple tanks, depending on your water needs) and an internal pump 

    Select a tank (or tanks) based on your water needs. Check your water bill to get an idea of your outdoor landscape usage. Choose a location close to your sprinkler system if possible. Tanks should be opaque to prevent algae growth.

    Install an internal pump (you’ll need to add electricity) to the tank. The pump will provide the water pressure to the drip lines.

    Each tank needs:

    • Electrical line (to run the pump)
    • City water line
    • Sprinkler line
    • 2-inch PVC hose connection
    • Overflow
    • Drain
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    2. Connect the tank to your sprinkler system and city water

    Connect the tank and irrigation water to the existing sprinkler system. The tank then becomes an additional source, along with the city water for the sprinkler system.

    Connect the tank to the incoming city water. This allows you to fill the tank with city water if needed. Install a switch on the line to your sprinkler system to enable switching between city water and irrigation water.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation


    3. Fill the tank each time you have irrigation 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    When it’s your turn for irrigation, use an external pump to fill the tank.

    • Attach the pump’s hose to the irrigation source.
    • Run the 2-inch PVC discharge hose from the pump to your water storage tank.
    • Attach the hose to your tank.
    • Turn on the pump and fill up the tank. 
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    A pump and 2-inch line allow Larry to fill his tank in 20-30 minutes during his regular irrigation runs.  

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Larry also suggests running your sprinklers and drips during the time you have irrigation while you are filling up your tank. This takes full advantage of water coming into your yard during your irrigation slot.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    4. Use water from the tank to water your yard and garden

    The internal pump provides the water pressure (especially as the tank empties) for the drip lines. It may take some experimentation to figure out the correct water pressure.

    Ideally, your water pressure using the tank / or incoming city water is the same. If the pressure is different, your watering times will vary based on which water source you are using.

    Adjust your valves as needed so you know how much water you use and how long it takes to water your garden and drip system

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

     5. Switch to city water as needed if the tank empties

    If you run out of stored flood irrigation water, switch back to using city water.

    Look at ways to lower your water usage or install an additional tank if you run out and use city water between each irrigation cycle.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post. 

    Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively. 

    He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds.

    Greenhouse Tips for Hot Summer ClimatesGreenhouse Tips for Hot Summer Climates

    If this post about how to water your garden with flood irrigation was helpful, please share it:

    Sources:

    1. https://blog.srpnet.com/managing-flood-irrigation/
    2. https://www.amwua.org/blog/why-are-we-still-using-flood-irrigation-in-the-desert

    Resources:


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    Angela Judd

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  • Do Metal Beds Heat Up More Than Wooden Garden Beds?

    Do Metal Beds Heat Up More Than Wooden Garden Beds?

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    Last year, I knew I needed to replace some wooden beds that were falling apart. I had one Garden in Minutes metal raised bed, and I loved its durability, 17’ depth, and perfect fit with watering grids. However, I had one question, “Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds?” I wondered if replacing wooden beds with metal beds was a good idea in my hot summer climate. I wanted to answer these questions before adding more metal beds to the garden. 

    Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.

    For the test, I took soil temperature readings from my metal Garden in Minutes bed and cedar garden beds for about four weeks. 

    Note: The Garden in Minutes metal bed is made of coated steel that is less reflective than standard galvanized or Aluzinc garden beds. (Other metal garden beds may perform differently.)

    Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.
    Date Time Metal
    Middle
    of Bed
    Metal
    Near
    Edge
    Cedar
    Middle
    of Bed
    Cedar
    Near
    Edge
    9/4 5 pm 70°F 74°F 70°F 73°F
    9/8 6 pm 69°F 72°F 70°F 72°F
    9/17 6 pm  64°F 69°F 65°F 71°F
    9/19 5 pm 65°F 69°F 65°F 68°F
    9/26 5 pm 64°F 68°F 64°F 67°F
    Metal vs. Wood Temperature Testing, September 2023

    Surprisingly, the temperature difference was not as significant as I thought it might be. The outer inch or so of the metal beds was usually (but not always) hotter by a degree or two, but the bed’s interior was similar for both beds. 

    Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.
    Mulching plays a crucial role in soil temperature

    Incidentally, when taking additional measurements, I discovered that sun exposure, mulch, and watering made a bigger difference than bed type. For instance, beds in direct sunlight on the western side of the garden heated up more than those on the eastern side. I also found that the soil temperature in beds with more mulch stayed cooler for longer than those with less. Beds that were recently watered were cooler than if it had been a couple of days since watering. I didn’t record these measurements, but I plan to take additional readings next summer to document more soil temperature findings. 


    Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.

    After considering these results, I concluded that the benefits of the Garden in Minute’s metal beds outweigh the modest heat gain on the outer edge of the bed. These metal beds are durable, long-lasting, termite-free, and require little to no maintenance. 

    Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.Do metal beds heat up more than wooden garden beds? See the temperature readings from four weeks of testing and make an informed decision.

    Last fall, after conducting this test to see if metal beds heated up more, I replaced three of my wooden garden beds with metal ones from Garden in Minutes. I recommend these functional, durable, and long-lasting garden beds if you are trying to decide whether to use metal or wood garden garden beds.


    If this post was helpful, please share it:


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    Angela Judd

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  • How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

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    If your property has access to flood irrigation, you know the benefits of deep watering for your landscape plants and trees. However, flooding your garden every 13 days may not be practical for watering raised beds and vegetable gardens. There is a way to water your garden using flood irrigation water that works well. This blog post explains how to install a flood irrigation system to effectively water your garden and raised beds. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    After the initial effort and investment, it is a low-cost solution for watering your garden. Not only does this method avoid the chemicals associated with treated water, but it is also much less expensive for the home gardener. Let’s dive into how to water your garden and yard using flood irrigation.


    What is flood irrigation?

    Flood irrigation is a system that captures and uses excess water from rainfall or snowmelt and provides a natural, chemical-free water source for your plants.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    In the Phoenix Valley, most irrigation water originates from SRP’s 13,000-square-mile watershed. It channels melted snow and rain into the Verde and Salt rivers. SRP then routes the irrigation water to the customer through lakes, dams, canals, and laterals.1

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Homeowners in flood-irrigated areas have access to irrigation runs every 13 days with a dry-up period (for canal repairs) during the winter.  The average cost for irrigation water is $6.80 per hour.

    According to AMWUA, ”about 22,000 homeowners receive flood irrigation or about 5 percent of SRP lands.”2

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    My property does not have flood irrigation (I wish it did!), but my neighbor Larry Burnett‘s property does. I’m sharing the method he developed to use flood irrigation to water his garden.

    He cleared the use of this method with the Roosevelt Water Conservation District. Check with local authorities to ensure you comply with local laws or water regulations. 


    What are the benefits of flood-irrigated water? 

    Flood irrigation offers a cost-effective, untreated water source rich in nutrients that promotes robust root systems by storing water deeper in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering and saline buildup. This method helps protect vegetation from drought and significantly reduces water evaporation compared to traditional sprinklers.1


    What are the challenges of using flood irrigation to water your garden? 

    • Gardens often need watering more often than every 13 days. 
    • You need more control over the amount of water than flooding with irrigated water offers. 
    • Flood irrigation relies on gravity, so water can’t reach raised beds or other elevated areas. 
    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    How to water your garden and landscape plants with flood irrigation


    1. Install a storage tank (or multiple tanks, depending on your water needs) and an internal pump 

    Select as large a tank as will fit in your space. Choose a location close to your sprinkler system if possible. A 1750-gallon tank holds up to 2000 gallons when full.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    2. Connect the tank to your sprinkler system

    Connect the tank and irrigation water to the existing sprinkler system. Install a switch to enable switching between city water and irrigation water. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    3. Fill the tank each time you have irrigation 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    When it’s your turn for irrigation, use an external pump to fill the tank. Run a 2-inch PVC discharge hose from the pump to your tank. Turn on the pump and fill up the tank. 

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    A pump and 2-inch line allow Larry to fill his tank in 20-30 minutes during his regular irrigation runs.  

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Larry also suggests running your sprinklers and drips during the time you have irrigation while you are filling up your tank. This takes full advantage of water coming into your yard during your irrigation slot.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    4. Use water from the tank to water your yard and garden. 

    The internal pump provides the water pressure (especially as the tank empties). It may take some experimentation to figure out the correct water pressure. Adjust your valves as needed so you know how much water you use and how long it takes to water your garden and drip system

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

     5. Switch to city water as needed if the tank empties

    If you run out of stored irrigation water, switch back to using city water from the storage water. Install an additional tank if you run out and use city water between each irrigation cycle.

    How to Water Your Garden With Flood IrrigationHow to Water Your Garden With Flood Irrigation

    Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post. 

    Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively. 

    He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds.

    Greenhouse Tips for Hot Summer ClimatesGreenhouse Tips for Hot Summer Climates

    If this post about how to water your garden with flood irrigation was helpful, please share it:

    Sources:

    1. https://blog.srpnet.com/managing-flood-irrigation/
    2. https://www.amwua.org/blog/why-are-we-still-using-flood-irrigation-in-the-desert

    Resources:


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    Angela Judd

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  • 10 Perennial Herbs For Hot Summer Climates

    10 Perennial Herbs For Hot Summer Climates

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    If you live in a hot summer climate, plant these ten perennial herbs once, and you’ll enjoy harvests for years!

    10 Perennial Herbs For Hot Climates

    A perennial is a species that completes its life cycle over three or more years, with the ability to survive both winter and summer and can be harvested without killing the plant. Each one of these herbs has survived for several years in my low desert Arizona garden.

    10 Perennial Herbs For Hot Climates10 Perennial Herbs For Hot Climates

    Perennial herbs are a simple way to increase production and yield in the garden. Once you plant them, you can harvest them for years to come!


    10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow


    1. Bay Laurel

    Perennial Herbs for hot climates: Bay LaurelPerennial Herbs for hot climates: Bay Laurel

    Bay Laurel is a slow grower and can take up to 2 years to establish, but once it does, it can survive for many years.


    2. Lemon Grass

    Perennial Herbs for hot climates: LemongrassPerennial Herbs for hot climates: Lemongrass

    Lemon grass is easy to grow and requires very little maintenance. It grows well in partial sun or full sun and well-drained soil. 

    Learn more about how to grow lemongrass in this blog post.


    3. Sage

    Perennial Herbs for hot climates: SagePerennial Herbs for hot climates: Sage

    I like to grow sage in the corner of a raised bed. It prefers well-drained soil with full sunlight. Give this perennial herb a trim in early spring and again at the end of summer to keep it looking it’s best.

    Learn more about how to grow sage in this blog post.


    4. Lavender

    Perennial Herbs for hot climates: LavenderPerennial Herbs for hot climates: Lavender

    Lavender prefers dry, well-drained soil and plenty of sunlight. It grows well in native soil and thrives on neglect. 


    10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow (cont.)


    5. Rosemary

    Rosemary prefers a well-drained soil and full sunlight. This tough shrub makes an excellent landscape plant and does well in native soil.

    Learn more about how to grow rosemary in this blog post.


    6. Lemon Balm

    Lemon balm in Arizona garden in MayLemon balm in Arizona garden in May

    Lemon balm prefers partial to full sunlight and well-drained soil. It can be invasive. Grow this perennial herb in a container to prevent spread.


    7. Lemon Verbena

    How To Grow Lemon VerbenaHow To Grow Lemon Verbena

    Lemon verbena is a fragrant herb with a warm citrus flavor. Provide shade during the hottest months of the year.

    Learn more about how to grow lemon verbena in this blog post.


    8. Oregano

    Perennial Herbs for hot climates: OreganoPerennial Herbs for hot climates: Oregano

    When choosing a transplant, rub a leaf to smell the aroma. Choose plants with the most potent aroma for the best flavor. Planting oregano in pots or containers is a great option to prevent spreading.

    Learn more about how to grow oregano in this blog post.


    9. Thyme

    Perennial Herbs for hot climates: ThymePerennial Herbs for hot climates: Thyme

    Thyme is my favorite perennial herb for cooking. I usually grow thyme in several locations throughout my garden. It does best with afternoon shade during the summer.

    Learn more about how to grow thyme in this blog post.


    10. Mint

    Learn how to grow mint outside, inside, and in containers with these 5 tips. Learn how to grow mint outside, inside, and in containers with these 5 tips. 

    Mint can spread, so grow in containers. This tough plant often dies back during the hottest months of the year but usually returns with abundant growth in the fall.

    Learn more about how to grow mint in this blog post.



    Arizona Herb Planting Guide_ A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert HerbsArizona Herb Planting Guide_ A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Herbs

    If this post about perennial herbs for hot climates was helpful, please share it:


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    Bob

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  • How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

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    Learn how to make nutrient-rich organic worm castings tea for bigger harvests, healthier trees & pest-free gardens. Zach from Arizona Worm Farm shares his recipe.

    Jump to the worm castings tea recipe

    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

    What is worm castings tea?

    Worm castings tea, also known as vermicompost tea, worm compost tea, or worm casting tea, is a nutrient-rich, organic fertilizer brewed by soaking worm castings (and other ingredients), in aerated water. It’s a natural way to feed your plants and boost soil health, teeming with beneficial microbes and minerals.

    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea

    Zach from Arizona Worm Farm has spent the last five years perfecting his recipe, and now he’s sharing it with us so we can learn how to make worm castings tea at home.


    How & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach’s Recipe for a Pest Free Garden

    Guest post by Zach Brooks, Owner of Arizona Worm Farm


    Why bother making it?

    It’s a lot of trouble – so let’s start with why. Quite simply: Your vegetable yield will increase. Your trees will be healthier. Your flowers will be bug-free.


    What are the benefits of worm castings tea?

    There’s a lot of soil science – pure academic research and decades of field testing that backs up this basic concept: if you suspend microbes in clean water and add air, the microbes will multiply dramatically. When you then transfer that microbe-laden brew into your soils and onto your plants, the microbes thrive and do what they do almost immediately.

    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free GardenHow to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

    Here’s what all those microbes do:

    • Help produce thicker leaves so your plants protect themselves against frost, sunburn, and pests. 
    • Rapidly convert organic matter from the soil into food for your plants.  
    • Tell your plants there are pests present before those pests arrive, so your plant protects itself from the inside out.  
    • Extend the reach of your plant’s roots so your plants grow better with less water. 
    • Eat harmful microbes.  
    • Improve soil structure through the formation of soil aggregates. 
    • Increase soil porosity, resulting in better aeration and water retention. 
    • Stop the degradation of soil pollutants and provide pH buffering.

    Convinced about the benefits of worm castings tea? Let’s talk about how to make it.

    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea

    Worm castings tea recipe development

    Over the last five years, I have run more than 125 experiments where a standard recipe was compared to variations of ingredients or procedures.

    We then looked for and counted microbes under a microscope.

    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free GardenHow to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

    Worm castings experiment findings:

    • The 27-hour brewing time increased protozoa activity.
    • Humic acid stimulated fungi activity.
    • Kelp stimulated protozoa activity.
    • Fish fertilizer stimulated fungi activity and increased nutrient content.
    • Worm castings resulted in increased fungi content.
    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea

    I am going to share our recipe and approach – although I will reiterate, that this is a bit of a bother, and you need the correct inputs to get this right. 

    We sell it fresh every Saturday morning here at the Worm Farm. An easier option is to just come by a gallon or two.


    Use fresh and varied inputs for the best tea

    Start with as varied and healthy a collection of microbes as possible. Use your castings, fresh from your worm bin, and your compost, fresh from your piles. Use other sources of microbes like hydrated mulch that is breaking down or mushroom compost.  

    Add vermicompost to make worm castings teaAdd vermicompost to make worm castings tea
    Worm castings from in-bed vermicomposting bins

    If you don’t have your own, buy them from a local farm where you can get fresh. The big box compost and worm castings sealed in plastic do not have much microbial life. If you come here to my farm and want inputs for your tea, tell us so we can sell you unscreened material.

    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea
    Decomposed hydrated wood chip mulch

    We don’t screen any of the inputs before we use them to make our tea here. The compost and castings will have larger chunks of wood than our typical commercial product. This mostly serves to reduce microbe exposure to heat and dryness and to avoid breaking fungal hyphae strands.  

    Worm castings from in-bed vermicomposting bins

    The other ingredients are humic extract, kelp meal, fish hydrolysate, and Arizona Worm Farm’s BSFL Nutrient +. How many of these you use is up to you. The extra additives will improve the tea but are not essential.

    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free GardenHow to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden
    The ingredients for worm castings tea

    Gather the supplies

    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea
    • A seven-gallon bucket (This size allows you to make 5 gallons of tea.)
    • A “tea bag” (You can add the material to the water and aerate it, but the bag makes it easier to spray and use in our gardens.)
    • A pump that can produce a “rolling boil” – bubbles that make the water look like it is boiling hard – with no heat. We recommend this home brewing kit from Compost Tea Lab. It contains a pump, a bubble snake, and a tea bag.
    • Hose end sprayer
    • Fresh worm castings
    • Unscreened compost
    • Decomposed hydrated wood chip mulch
    • Humic extract
    • Commercial kelp meal 
    • Fish hydrolysate
    • Arizona Worm Farm’s BSFL Nutrient + 
    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free GardenHow to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

    Zach’s Worm Casting Tea Recipe

    Ingredients

    • 5 Gallons (19 liters) of pure well water, collected rainwater, or city water allowed to sit out overnight. *see note
    • 12 oz (340g) worm castings 
    • 4 oz (113g) of unscreened handmade compost
    • 4 oz (113g) decomposed wood chip mulch (hydrated)
    • 2 Tablespoons (30g) humic acid
    • 2 Tablespoons (30g)  kelp meal
    • 2 Tablespoons (30g) fish hydrolysate
    • 2 Tablespoons (30g)  AZWF BSFL Nutrient+

    Directions

    1. Place the bubble snake in the bucket.
    2. Add 5 gallons of water to the bucket. (see temperature note below)
    3. Fill the compost tea bag with castings, compost, and mulch.
    4. Tie the tea bag to the snake.
    5. Add liquid and powdered ingredients to the bucket.
    6. Turn on the pump.
    7. Replace ingredients in the tea bag with fresh castings, compost, and mulch after 1 hour and again after 2 hours. After the 3rd hour of aeration, take the tea bag out of the bucket. (Add spent ingredients to garden beds or containers.)
    8. Continue aerating the tea for 21-24 hours, but not longer.
    9. Use tea within 2-3 hours. The microbes begin dying when you take the tea off the bubbler. After 4 hours, the numbers return to where you started. 

    * A note about water: Most city water has chlorine to kill parasites, bacteria, and viruses. It kills the bad stuff but also kills the good stuff. If you only have access to city water, add water to the bucket and let it sit overnight. The chlorine will dissipate. If you are in a hurry, boiling for 15 minutes will have the same effect. Allow to cool before use.

    Temperature: Keep water temperature between 60-70°F (15.5-21°C)–above 85°F-90°F (29-32°C) is too hot.

    Recipe courtesy of Zach Brooks, owner of Arizona Worm Farm


    Printable copy of the worm castings recipe:


    How to apply worm castings tea

    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea

    There are many ways to apply tea – and they are all easy. 


    As a soil drench: Pour it on the soil around your plants. Add 2 gallons of water to each gallon of tea for a soil drench. Or use it at full strength and then water the soil well.

    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea

    Foliar feed: Add it to a hose-end sprayer and spray it as a foliar feed.

    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea
    • Strain the tea through an extra fine mesh strainer before use.
    • Put the dial on the “most product” level and fill the jar with undiluted tea.
    • Rinse the filter in the hose end sprayer frequently. The hose end sprayer should empty quickly. If it is not emptying, the filter may be clogged.
    How & Why to Make Worm Castings TeaHow & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea
    Straining the tea and rinsing the filter will allow the tea to spray freely.

    Irrigation injection system: Follow system instructions for use.



     When to apply worm castings tea

    1. At the beginning of each season

    • In the fall to get your plants ready for frost.
    • In the spring for a harvest boost.
    • Just before summer to get plants ready for the heat. 
    • Use it as often as weekly; it only does good. However, more than four times a year is probably not worth the time and money.

    2. When setting up new garden beds or adding fresh soil

    Apply tea when you set up a new bed (to get the soil ready). For best results, apply it a week or two before you plant, and then keep the soil watered like you had plants in it.

    3. When planting new trees

    Using worm castings tea when you plant new trees has been shown to dramatically reduce transplant shock and help new trees establish roots.

    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free GardenHow to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

    4. To add microbes when fertilizing your fruit trees

    Adding microbes in the form of worm castings or worm castings tea is the first of four steps to fertilizing fruit trees. Learn the additional steps in this blog post.


    Arizona Worm Farm offers fresh worm castings tea most Saturdays. They also offer mobile tea sprays. See their website for availability.

    How to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free GardenHow to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach's Recipe for a Pest-Free Garden

    If this post about how to make worm castings tea was helpful, please share it:


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    Angela Judd

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  • How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

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    As a low desert gardener, it’s exciting to learn how to grow a crop that I already use, is good for you, and grows well in warm climates. Ginger definitely qualifies on all three accounts. Learning how to grow ginger is easy, and growing it is even simpler (especially if you live in a warm climate). 

    Ginger is a heat-loving, tropical perennial herb grown for its bamboo-like leaves and flavorful rhizomes. It is grown as a long-season annual in all but the warmest locations. 

    This article includes information on how to grow ginger in warm climates and cool climates too. There are also tips for learning how to grow ginger in containers and how to grow ginger indoors.


    8 Tips for How to Grow Ginger


    1. Understand how ginger grows

    Ginger is grown from rhizomes. Rhizomes are fleshy stems that spread horizontally underground and contain several buds or growing points. The ginger rhizomes are planted below ground and send up bamboo-like shoots that give energy to the developing ginger below ground. 

    Ginger shoots emerge from the ground when the weather is nice and warm in the spring. Throughout the long days and warm months of summer, ginger grows well. As the days get shorter and cooler, the leaves turn yellow as the ginger begins to go dormant. 


    2. Purchase and prepare ginger before planting

    You can buy ginger online from seed companies, but you can also purchase organic ginger from your local market. I get mine at Sprouts. When purchasing ginger rhizomes for planting, look for light-colored, thin-skinned organic ginger that is plump and firm with several bumpy nodules. 

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    To prepare ginger for planting, cut rhizomes into 2″-3″ pieces (each piece containing at least 2 to 3 nodules). Allow cut ends to dry and heal over before planting.


    3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow

    Ginger needs a long, warm growing season of about 10 months to grow well. 

    Zones 8 and warmer generally have enough time to start and grow ginger outdoors. Plant outdoors after your last frost date and when the soil warms in the spring. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ginger in March.

    Plant rhizomes with nodules pointing up 2″ deep and 6″–8″ apart. 

    For square foot gardening, plant 4 ginger rhizomes per square foot.

    In cooler climates, you will need to pre-sprout rhizomes indoors before planting. Count back 10 months from your first fall frost date. This is the time to begin pre-sprouting your ginger. 

    To pre-sprout ginger, plant rhizomes 2″ deep in small pots on heat mats. Keep warm and slightly moist (but not soggy; it will rot). Once ginger sprouts, provide supplemental lighting until it is warm enough to plant outside. Gradually let plants become accustomed to outdoor conditions for a week and then carefully transplant sprouts to larger containers or garden beds outdoors.


    Turmeric and ginger both require a long frost-free growing season. To get a head start, pre-sprout ginger and turmeric indoors.Turmeric and ginger both require a long frost-free growing season. To get a head start, pre-sprout ginger and turmeric indoors.

    4. Give ginger plenty of warmth

    Ginger does not grow well in temperatures below 55°F. Temperatures below freezing cause damage to the leaves and also kills the rhizomes. 

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    In cooler climates, choose your warmest location to plant ginger. Look for an area that gets reflected heat from a block wall. Consider planting ginger in a container. Containers often heat up more quickly in the spring. Move the container to a sheltered location when temperatures fall.

    To grow ginger in containers:

    • Use a container for growing ginger that is at least 12 inches deep.
    • Container-grown ginger may need more frequent watering and fertilizer.
    • Harvest container-grown ginger by dumping it onto a tarp or into a wheelbarrow

    To grow ginger indoors:

    • Provide supplemental lighting for ginger for 12 – 14 hours.
    • Ideal indoor temperature: 75°F.
    • May require supplemental feeding.
    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    In hot summer locations, provide shade for growing ginger. Although it prefers warm soil, intense sun often damages the growing leaves. Look for an area to plant ginger that receives shade naturally, or provide shade for growing ginger.


    5. Give ginger good soil and fertilize as needed

    The best soil for ginger is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Rich, loose soil may provide enough nutrients for growing ginger. Mulching the soil with additional compost or straw helps provide nutrients, control weeds, and retain water. 

    While ginger is growing, you can add a few inches of compost to growing ginger sprouts, similar to “hilling” potatoes. This can encourage more growth in the rhizomes. 

    If your ginger is not growing well, consider feeding every few weeks with an organic fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsionTesting your soil will help you know exactly what the soil is lacking.

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger
    Ginger developing below ground

    6. Water ginger correctly

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    Ginger grows best with regular water, especially when the plant is actively growing. Well-draining soil is important as the rhizomes do not like soggy conditions. Do not overwater. As temperatures cool, reduce watering.



    7. Harvest ginger at the right time

    In cool climates, harvest ginger all at once before freezing temperatures. In warmer climates, harvest ginger after the leaves begin to yellow and die back. Wait to harvest as long as possible for the largest rhizomes. 

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    To harvest, gently dig up the entire plant. In warm areas, you can grow ginger as a perennial. Leave the ginger in the ground and harvest as needed. Plants will go dormant during the cooler months and shorter days of winter, but new shoots will emerge in the spring.



    8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways

    After harvesting ginger, rinse it well and cut off shoots and large roots. Use the leaves in tea. 

    How to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing GingerHow to Grow Ginger: 8 Tips for Growing Ginger

    Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator or freezer in plastic resealable bags. Unpeeled ginger keeps for about a month in the refrigerator or up to a year frozen.

    Dehydrate ginger by peeling (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) and slicing. Dehydrate at 95°F for 8-12 hours or until ginger is crisp and breaks when bent. I use this dehydrator from Amazon

    Store dehydrated slices in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Process small amounts of the sliced ginger into powder. Once ground, the powder will begin to lose flavor, so grind only a small amount at a time.

    Process peeled ginger (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) with a small amount of water in the blender. This is the blender I use. 

    Freeze in herb or ice cube trays. Use individual portions as needed. When processed this way, ginger lasts up to a year in the freezer.


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  • How to Grow Patty Pan Squash 

    How to Grow Patty Pan Squash 

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    Learn how to grow patty pan squash, from Sunburst to Gelber Englisher Custard varieties. It’s easy to care for and delicious! Patty pan squash was a surprise family favorite. Its round, saucer-like shape and delicate flavor make it perfect for grilling, roasting, or stuffing. The compact size and quick growth make this summer squash an easy addition to your planting list. 

    How to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    Try different varieties of patty pan squash

    There are many varieties of patty pan squash to choose from. Popular types include:

    Sunburst: Yellow with scalloped edges; tender and nutty tasting. (55 days to harvest)

    Peter Pan: Green with scalloped edges; All-America Selections winner. (50 days to harvest)

    Gelber Englisher Custard: Lemon-yellow fruit with excellent flavor. (60 days to harvest)

    How to Grow Patty Pan SquashHow to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    Looking for more summer squash varieties? This post lists more of my favorites.


    When to plant patty pan squash

    If you live in the low desert of Arizona, plant patty pan squash after the last frost (usually mid-February) through March and again from mid-August through September

    How to Grow Patty Pan SquashHow to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    If you live in other areas, make sure the soil is at least 60°F (15.5°C) before planting and all danger of frost is passed. 


    How to plant

    Amend soil with compost before planting. Large pattypan seeds are easy to direct sow in the garden. Plant seeds 1 inch (2.5cm) deep in well-draining soil, with 18-24 inches (45-60cm) spacing between seeds. 

    How to Grow Patty Pan SquashHow to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    Patty pan squash also grows well in containers on a patio or balcony. Choose a container at least 18 inches (45 cm) wide and deep, and use well-draining soil. 

    How to Grow Patty Pan SquashHow to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    Plant seeds in a sunny spot with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight. Morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal. Provide shade once daytime temperatures are above 90°F (32°C). 


    Caring for patty pan squash

    Patty pan squash plants need consistent watering for proper growth and fruit production. Water deeply and mulch well. 

    How to Grow Patty Pan SquashHow to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    The most common pest or disease problems with patty pan squash include squash bugs and powdery mildew. Monitor plants and check the undersides of leaves daily for squash bugs and their eggs. If powdery mildew is present, remove infected leaves. 

    How to Grow Patty Pan SquashHow to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    Learn more about how to grow summer squash in this blog post.


    Harvesting and using patty pan squash:

    The best time to harvest patty pan squash is when they are small, tender, and firm, about  2-4 inches (5-10cm) in diameter. Store harvested fruits in the refrigerator for up to a week.

    How to Grow Patty Pan SquashHow to Grow Patty Pan Squash

    When harvested young, there is no need to peel. If allowed to grow, the skin gets tough, and the seeds are large.

    Grill or roast small patty pan squash and use it like other summer squash varieties. Larger fruits are better for stuffing. Scoop out the seeds before filling. 


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  • How to Create Shade in the Garden

    How to Create Shade in the Garden

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    If you’re in a climate with intense summer sun, you may want to provide shade during the hottest months. This is similar to applying “sunscreen” on your plants. If you’re wondering how to create shade in your garden, this blog post gives ideas for some practical ways to create shade in your garden.

    Adding shade to a hot summer garden can help your garden survive and thrive. This article also covers which vegetables need shade and which can grow in full sun. Finally, we will cover what type of shade cloth is best and other ways to add shade to your garden. So let’s get to it – all about adding shade to the garden.

    If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.


    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.


    Why is it important to add shade in hot summer climates?

    1. Adding shade protects plants from the scorching sun.

    Sunscald on a pepperSunscald on a pepper
    Sunscald on a pepper

    The morning sun provides plenty of energy through photosynthesis without the excessive heat stress of prolonged all-day sun exposure.

    Sunscald on a tomatoSunscald on a tomato
    Sunscald on a tomato

    In sweltering heat, direct sunlight can cause wilting, sunburn, and even death in some plants. Most vegetables are stressed when temperatures are above 90℉ (32.2°C). Shade keeps the direct sun off foliage; the shaded area can be about 10℉ (6°C) cooler than areas without shade.

    Winter squash wilted from loss of moisture during the afternoon heatWinter squash wilted from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
    Winter squash wilted from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat

    2. Adding shade conserves water.

    A shaded garden helps retain moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Providing shade for plants can lower the amount of moisture loss through transpiration (evaporation of water from plant leaves).A shaded garden helps retain moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Providing shade for plants can lower the amount of moisture loss through transpiration (evaporation of water from plant leaves).

    A shaded garden helps retain moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Providing shade for plants can lower the amount of moisture loss through transpiration (evaporation of water from plant leaves).

    Wilted summer squash from loss of moisture during the afternoon heatWilted summer squash from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
    Wilted summer squash from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat

    3. Adding shade creates a comfortable outdoor space.

    A well-shaded garden benefits plants and makes spending time in the garden more enjoyableSpending time in your garden daily is essential, and the shade benefits the gardener and the garden.

    A well-shaded garden benefits plants and makes it more enjoyable for you to spend time in the garden. Spending time in your garden daily is essential, and the shade benefits the gardener and the garden.A well-shaded garden benefits plants and makes it more enjoyable for you to spend time in the garden. Spending time in your garden daily is essential, and the shade benefits the gardener and the garden.

    When should you add shade to your summer garden?

    The best time to set up your shade cloth is when temperatures consistently climb above 90°F (32.2°C), and keep it on until temperatures get below that. At this point, most plants tend to enter a dormancy-like state to conserve water and protect themselves from heat stress.

    For me, in the low desert of Arizona, this usually means using shade cloth from mid-May to early October.

    A tip to remember: Although summer gardens in hot climates need shade in the hottest months of the year, abundant sunshine is an advantage during cooler months. Because most fall and winter gardens need full sun, it’s best to add temporary (not permanent) shade to the garden for the hottest months of the year.

    The best time to set up your shade cloth is when temperatures consistently climb above 90°F (32.2°C), and keep it on until temperatures get below that. At this point, most plants tend to enter a dormancy-like state to conserve water and protect themselves from heat stress.The best time to set up your shade cloth is when temperatures consistently climb above 90°F (32.2°C), and keep it on until temperatures get below that. At this point, most plants tend to enter a dormancy-like state to conserve water and protect themselves from heat stress.

    Which vegetables grow best with afternoon shade?

    When planning your vegetable garden, it’s important to take into account each plant’s sunlight preferences to ensure a thriving and productive garden. While all vegetables can benefit from some afternoon shade in hot summer climates, certain plants are particularly sensitive to the sun’s intense rays and should be given extra shade if you live in a hot climate.

    When planning your vegetable garden, it's important to take into account each plant's sunlight preferences to ensure a thriving and productive garden. While all vegetables can benefit from some afternoon shade in hot summer climates, certain plants are particularly sensitive to the sun's intense rays and should be given extra shade if you live in a hot climate.When planning your vegetable garden, it's important to take into account each plant's sunlight preferences to ensure a thriving and productive garden. While all vegetables can benefit from some afternoon shade in hot summer climates, certain plants are particularly sensitive to the sun's intense rays and should be given extra shade if you live in a hot climate.

    Light-sensitive crops include ginger, turmeric, strawberries, pumpkins, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, summer squash, garlic, blackberries, artichokes, and chard.


    Extend the season for some crops with shade

    Many vegetables do not like the extreme heat of an Arizona (or other hot climate) summer. Provide shade for the listed crops as temperatures begin to heat up to extend the harvest. Adding shade can extend the growing season for certain crops allowing them to produce for a longer period, even when temperatures begin to climb.

    Many vegetables do not like the extreme heat of an Arizona (or other hot climate) summer. Provide shade for the listed crops as temperatures begin to heat up to extend the harvest.  Adding shade can extend the growing season for certain crops allowing them to produce for a longer period, even when temperatures begin to climb.Many vegetables do not like the extreme heat of an Arizona (or other hot climate) summer. Provide shade for the listed crops as temperatures begin to heat up to extend the harvest.  Adding shade can extend the growing season for certain crops allowing them to produce for a longer period, even when temperatures begin to climb.

    Some crops that benefit from season-extending shade include kale, radishes, potatoes, cilantro, carrots, cucumbers, beets, peas, lettuce, spinach, and beans.


    Which vegetables do not need shade?

    Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight.  However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather. Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight.  However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather.

    Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight. However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather.

    Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight.  However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather. Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight.  However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather.

    Here are some vegetables that do well in full sun roselle, luffa, corn, peanuts, yardlong beans, melons, black-eyed peas, sunflowers, grapes, okra, Armenian cucumbers, basil, amaranth, sesame, and sweet potatoes.


    How to create shade in the garden

    Gardening in a hot climate means learning to work with sunlight effectively. “Full-sun” directions for other locations may not apply in Arizona’s low desert or other hot climates. Providing shade for your sun-sensitive veggies is essential, and there are many creative ways to do that. Here are a few of my favorite methods:

    Providing shade for your sun-sensitive veggies is essential, and there are many creative ways to do that. Here are a few of my favorite methods:Providing shade for your sun-sensitive veggies is essential, and there are many creative ways to do that. Here are a few of my favorite methods:

    1. Create shade in the garden with a thoughtful garden design

    Gardening in a hot climate means learning to work with sunlight effectively. Full-sun directions for other locations are not applicable in the low desert or other hot climates. Gardening in a hot climate means learning to work with sunlight effectively. Full-sun directions for other locations are not applicable in the low desert or other hot climates. 

    Notice which areas in your yard receive morning sun and afternoon shade naturally. These spots are prime real estate for any plants, but especially a summer garden. Use these areas in your garden for vegetables that need shade. South or west-facing parts of your yard will probably need added shade.


    2. Create shade in the garden with shade cloth

    If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages in shade cloth allows you to customize the light that reaches your garden.

    If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages available in shade cloth allow you to customize the amount of light that reaches your garden.If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages available in shade cloth allow you to customize the amount of light that reaches your garden.

    Using a shade cloth is a game-changer for me. It’s an easy, adjustable solution to protect my delicate veggies from scorching sunrays while allowing enough sunlight to grow.


    Which color shade cloth should I use?

    When choosing a shade cloth for your garden, consider the temperature differences between night and day as well as the average temperature in your area to determine which color is best suited for your needs.

    White shade cloth reflects light & heat. Cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden. White shade cloth reflects light & heat. Cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden.

    White shade cloth reflects light & heat and cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden.

    Black shade cloth absorbs heat. Blocks light. Best for cooler climates.Black shade cloth absorbs heat. Blocks light. Best for cooler climates.
    Aluminet shade cloth reflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night. Aluminet shade cloth reflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night.

    Aluminet shade cloth reflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night.

    If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.

    Source: Bootstrap Farmer’s Guide to Shadecloth


    Which percentage shade cloth should I use?

    Shade cloth percentages indicate how much light is blocked, typically ranging from 30-50%. Here's a guideline for choosing the right percentage:Shade cloth percentages indicate how much light is blocked, typically ranging from 30-50%. Here's a guideline for choosing the right percentage:

    Shade cloth percentages indicate how much light is blocked, typically ranging from 30-70%. Here’s a guideline for choosing the right percentage:

    Source: Bootstrap Farmer’s Guide to Shadecloth

    Shade cloth percentages indicate how much light is blocked, typically ranging from 30-50%. Here's a guideline for choosing the right percentage:Shade cloth percentages indicate how much light is blocked, typically ranging from 30-50%. Here's a guideline for choosing the right percentage:

    How far away should the shade cloth be from plants?

    Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants. 

    Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants. Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants. 

    What is the best way to attach shade cloth?

    Attach shade cloth to existing trellises with zip ties or carabiner clips. At the end of the season, removing the clips, rolling up the shade cloth, and storing it away is simple. When the summer heat comes again, re-attach the shade cloth.

    Adding Shade to a Hot Summer GardenAdding Shade to a Hot Summer Garden


    3. Create shade in the garden with sunflowers

    Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety can offer shade to surrounding plants.

    The Sundancer Sunflower from Renee’s Garden Seeds is my favorite sunflower for adding shade. It is a branching sunflower with endless blooms and a large plant that blooms all summer.

    Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety, can offer shade to surrounding plants.Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety, can offer shade to surrounding plants.

    Plant sunflowers on the west or south side of the garden for shade. Once grown in a garden, they often reseed and pop up year after year. Unwanted volunteers are easy to pull out. 

    Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety, can offer shade to surrounding plants.Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety, can offer shade to surrounding plants.

    At the end of the season, cut off the stem at the base of the dirt rather than pulling out the entire root system. The remaining root will decompose and add organic matter to the area. Sunflowers can be planted in the low desert of Arizona from February through July.


    4. Create shade in the garden with umbrellas

    Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips and damages surrounding plants. Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips and damages surrounding plants. 

    Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips over and damages surrounding plants. 


    5. Create shade in the garden with plants

    Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade. 

    Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade. Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade. 

    Heat-loving crops that may provide shade for other plants include roselle, luffa, amaranth, black-eyed peas, Armenian cucumbers, sunflowers, okra, hyacinth beans, and sesame.

    Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade. Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade. 

    Vining vegetables can be grown over artichoke crowns that go dormant during hot summers to protect them from the intense heat that might damage the crowns. Grow heat-loving plants on the south or west-facing trellises that shade other plants. 



    Other ideas for adding shade:

    Here are some pictures I took from my previous gardens or other gardens that have added shade. You may get some ideas or inspiration to implement in your own garden.


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  • How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates

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    If you live in a hot climate, growing herbs may seem like a daunting task. Don’t worry, it’s possible! With the right knowledge, you can grow herbs that thrive in the heat. Not only will they add flavor to your meals, but they will also attract beneficial insects to your garden.

    In this blog post, I’ll share tips on how to plant, care for, and harvest perennial herbs in hot summer climates so that you can enjoy a bountiful herb garden year-round.

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates

    10 Tips for Growing Delicious Herbs in Hot Summer Climates


    1. Learn about the herbs you want to grow and the best times to plant

    Herbs are classified as annuals, biennials, or perennials.

    Annuals complete their life cycle in one growing season. Biennials typically grow the first year, flower, set seed the second year, and then die. Perennials usually live for three years or more. 

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Harvested rosemary

    Living in a hot climate means many herbs are perennial and come back year after year. Plant perennial herbs in the spring and the fall.

    Perennial herbs that grow well year-round in mild winter climates: sage, mint, lemon balm, rosemary, lemon verbena, oregano, garlic chives, thyme, bay laurel, lavender, lemongrass, stevia. Read more about 10 perennial herbs for hot summer climates in this blog post.


    2. Give herbs plenty of sunlight

    Herbs do best with 6-8 hours of sun; afternoon shade is preferred in hot summers. However, many herbs tolerate full afternoon sun even in hot climates like the low desert of Arizona. They include rosemary, lavender, garlic chives, lemongrass, oregano, and basil.

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Thyme

    That being said, herbs are grown for their leaves, and fruiting isn’t required. If you have a shady spot in your garden, herbs are one crop that will tolerate shade more than other plants.

    Herbs that tolerate partial shade (3-4 hours sun) include chervil, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, chives, thyme, ginger, lemon verbena, bay, mint, oregano, sage, and turmeric.

    Herbs that tolerate partial shadeHerbs that tolerate partial shade

    3. Plant in a location with good drainage

    Good drainage is essential, especially for Mediterranean herbs like oregano, sage, lavender, rosemary, and thyme. These herbs are adapted to growing in dry, rocky, and well-drained soil.

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Sage

    Herbs are not tolerant of wet or waterlogged soil, which can lead to root rot and other diseases. To thrive, they require soil that drains easily and allows excess water to escape quickly.


    4. Learn how to care for herbs throughout the year

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Flowering sage

    Year-Round Tips for Perennial Herbs

    • Spring: Good time to plant. Prune off woody growth. Lightly prune by ⅓ and amend with compost
    • Summer: Do not prune much or overwater. Allow plants to go into summer dormancy (survival mode).
    • Fall: Good time to plant. Lightly prune by ⅓ and amend with compost. 
    • Winter: Reduce watering and harvest less – helps plants go dormant and withstand frost damage


    5. Grow invasive herbs in a container

    Herbs with spreading roots that do best in containers are herbs in the mint and oregano families. 

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Oregano in a container and mint

    Other Herbs that Grow Well in Containers:

    Basil, Cilantro, Sage, Rosemary, Thyme, Oregano, Ginger, Turmeric, Calendula

    Container Gardening for Beginners: 10 Steps for SuccessContainer Gardening for Beginners: 10 Steps for Success

    10 Tips for How to Grow Herbs in Hot Summer Climates (cont.)


    6. Harvest seeds before they drop and spread

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Dill seeds

    Some herbs, such as chamomile, dill, garlic chives, fennel, and cilantro, produce many seeds that can spread throughout the garden.

    Saved seeds

    If you want to save the seeds, allow them to dry on the plant, but cut off the seed head before they begin falling off. Store the seed head in a paper sack to continue drying. Learn more about how to save seeds in this blog post.


    7. Don’t overfertilize or overwater herbs

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Basil

    Don’t overfertilize herbs – this promotes lush green growth at the expense of flavor and scent. The herb oils won’t be as concentrated. Adding compost twice a year is plenty.

    Don’t overwater herbs – they require less water than vegetables and flowers. Flavor and scent intensify if you water correctly. Herbs are often killed by overwatering. 


    8. Use herbs to attract beneficial insects

    Pests rarely cause significant damage to herbs. On the contrary, herbs are crucial for attracting, feeding, and housing beneficial insects and pollinators to your garden. Plant various herbs throughout your garden and allow them to flower. 

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Fennel

    Beneficial Insect & Pollinator-Friendly Herbs That Grow Easily From Seed:

    Basil, borage, cilantro, dill, parsley, fennel, lovage, chamomile (Click the herb name for seed sources)


    9. Harvest and use herbs every day

     Use them. The best thing about growing all of these herbs is you usually don’t have to preserve them. You have ready access to them all year long. Don’t forget to harvest and use them.

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Herbs hanging to dry

    Harvest herbs regularly, picking lightly all over to encourage bushy growth. Avoid harvesting more than ⅓ of the plant, and aim to harvest just before flowering for the most flavorful herbs. After flowering, cut back the herbs.

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates
    Harvested thyme

    Herbs generally have the most flavor just before flowering. Use a sharp, clean knife or scissors to harvest. Harvest from all over the plant if possible. After harvesting, wash, rinse, pat dry, or let air dry. Remove leaves from tough stalks and stems.


    10. Learn how to preserve herbs

    How to Grow Herbs in Hot ClimatesHow to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates

    Herbs can be preserved through short-term storage, freezing, drying, and freeze-drying. Each method has unique benefits and is best for certain types of herbs.

    Don't let your herbs go to waste. Instead freeze-dry herbs to preserve the flavor and quality. Learn how to freeze-dry herbs with these tips.Don't let your herbs go to waste. Instead freeze-dry herbs to preserve the flavor and quality. Learn how to freeze-dry herbs with these tips.

    Arizona Herb Planting Guide_ A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert HerbsArizona Herb Planting Guide_ A Visual Planting Guide for Low Desert Herbs

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