CHARLOTTE, N.C. — For nearly a century, the smell of barbecue signaled the arrival of election season in the Tar Heel State.
But after 93 years, organizers of the Mallard Creek Presbyterian Church barbecue, referred to as the “granddaddy of barbecues,” announced the community tradition is coming to an end.
What You Need To Know
- The Mallard Creek Presbyterian Church has hosted a nearly century-long barbecue tradition for the North Carolina community
- Organizers said generational leadership challenges have led to the event coming to an end
- One volunteer shares how the barbecue became a part of his life
The annual event began in 1929 during the Great Depression to raise money for the church.
Over the decades, it grew into one of North Carolina’s best-known political stops, where voters could meet candidates in person before heading to the polls.
Charles Kimrey, co-chairman of the barbecue, said generational changes ultimately led to the event’s retirement.
“The number of folks willing to lend a hand were always appreciated and needed,” Kimrey said. “But the generational leadership of being able to commit to seven to eight days’ time off work, knowing what to do without being told what to do, that type of leadership we couldn’t bear to fill those voids. It would be so hard to replace key elements to the preparations of the organization.”
Kimrey said volunteers would generally start the physical preparation at least seven to eight days before the event.
“Each of those days would take easily 100 volunteers. On our barbecue day [around] 300 volunteers,” Kimrey said.
“Folks have moved away, the church has changed, people go in different directions. Our community has changed so much. We’re all one big happy family, and our family has spread apart. Not fallen apart, just folks [moving]. Life changes, life carries on,” Kimrey said.
Longtime volunteer Tommy Oehler, 86, expressed disappointment about the barbecue closing but also understands why this chapter is ending.
“We just don’t have the people to take our places,” Oehler said. “My uncle had the job before me, and I took it over. [It used to be] once you had a job you had to die before you get rid of it, and whenever you died [someone was trained] to take your place. That’s what happened to us. We don’t have the people trained to take our places.”
The barbecue happened on the fourth Thursdays of October, right before elections, thus making it a popular spot for candidates to mingle and dine with voters in a face-to-face environment.
Former Republican North Carolina Gov. and Charlotte Mayor Pat McCrory, who attended the barbecues, credits it with helping him connect with voters.
“I won my first election by 300 votes,” McCrory said. “Every hand I shook at the Mallard Creek barbecue from 8 in the morning all the way to darkness may have made the difference in my first political victory.”
“I had fun meeting my opponents and interacting with the public and having some incredible barbecue. It wasn’t really the politics, it was the interaction with the people over good food, building relationships and that’s what we’re losing in the political dialogue today. This is another nail in the coffin toward building relationships and politicians and that’s why I hate to see it go,” McCrory said.
Former Democratic Charlotte Mayor Jennifer Roberts enjoyed the barbecues, handshakes and conversations with neighbors. Roberts said the barbecue also helped voters engage in the democratic process.
“I think people enjoyed meeting their local officials,” Roberts said. “Even when you weren’t on the ballot it was great to be out there, meet constituents, be with your colleagues that were on the ballot. It was a great time. It was part of our Southern tradition.”
“People came together, Republicans and Democrats, we’d stand in the line together, shaking constituents’ hands, chatting it up, and the best part was after all the people stopped shaking hands, you could go and have some barbecue. We need to have these informal times when politicians of different parties and people of different political parties can sit down and have fellowship and recognize there’s stuff we share, [like] love of barbecue, but also values, experiences that show we’re not that different,” Roberts said.
Although many are expecting to long for the barbecue’s famous pork and Brunswick stew, its legacy stretches far beyond the events and politics.
Over the years, the event raised money for church missions, including hurricane relief and backpack drives for schools.
Organizers also emphasized the decision to end the barbecue was not influenced by politics or social issues. Instead, they said it was simply time.
“The life cycle of this event came to an end at 93 years. We feel like we did some good in this world we live in,” Kimrey said.
For volunteers like Oehler, the end of the event is a tough reality to bear.
“This was our life,” Oehler said. “It’s gone, and I don’t think it will ever be back. Sad situation, but life goes on.”
Historic image from the longstanding Mallard Creek Presbyterian Church barbecue. (Courtesy: Robinson-Spangler Carolina Room, Charlotte Mecklenburg Library)
