Some of the last flowers to bloom as the growing season draws to a close are Halloween-ready: the headily scented trumpets of Datura are as ethereal as they are toxic. Until a neighbor began growing them in his city tree bed every summer, I paid the plants little mind. Sidewalks are very rough on any living thing, and the flourishing forms of these resilient annual shrubs won me over. Despite complete neglect—receiving no supplemental water, no food, and a lot of unwanted liquid attention from passing dogs—buds keep forming, blooms keep opening every night, and passersby keep being enchanted by the combination of perfume and near-artificial flower perfection, and, later, by the prickly seed capsules. The fact that Datura is strongly associated with toxic, hallucinogenic, and medicinal effects adds to its intrigue.
Here’s more about alluring Datura, also known as devil’s trumpet.
Above: After a slow start, the plants begin to bloom daily after midsummer.
The flowers of Datura are vespertine, unfurling at night, and lasting until the middle of the following day. The strongly scented flowers attract sphinx moths, which are their primary pollinators.
Above: Datura flowers always point upwards.
Various Datura species share a long list of common names that include devil’s trumpet, moonflower, thorn-apple, and jimsonweed. The name angel’s trumpet refers to species of Brugmansia, whose flowers are pendant rather than upright, growing on woodier, taller shrubs.
Above: The flower buds can be as long as eight inches. Above: Their night-scent develops through the evening.
Despite the flowers’ sweet scent, the crushed leaves have an unpleasant odor. While not absolutely deer-proof, Datura is not top of the list for the browsing herbivores. Cases of poisoning usually affect humans, not animals, since the animals may know better.
Toxic alkaloids are found in all parts of Datura but are concentrated in the seeds. The level of toxicity can vary very widely depending on the specific plant, which is why humans looking to experience a botanical high may instead became extremely ill, or (rarely) slightly dead.
Before anyone panics, bear in mind that we feel comfortable around highly toxic plants like yew, foxglove, hellebore and oleander; we barely consider their complex properties.
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After years of living with a shared rooftop garden in lower Manhattan, designer Julie Weiss decided to let the plants win.
“I love the wild, overgrown feel,” says Weiss, who was Vanity Fair’s art director from 2004 to 2014. “It’s a contrast to the city.”
Weiss, an LA native, lets the garden take on a life of its own. Wavy grasses and lavender look billowy and soft against the city backdrop, with all those sharp right angles on the Woolworth Building and the Brooklyn Bridge in the distance.
During an early autumn visit, we enjoyed the panoramic views that stretch to both the Hudson and East rivers:
Above: Weiss anchors the garden with hardy herbaceous perennials that bloom deep into October. Purple agastaches and lavenders mix with wild grasses, hydrangeas, and roses. And there’s the white nicotiana (at left) that she plants by the door for its “beautiful, tropical scent.” Above: Divided into four outdoor “rooms,” the space has lent itself to countless dinners, intimate drinks and summer soirées. Above: Weiss likes how each of the four outdoor “rooms” can accommodate several of the building’s occupants simultaneously but privately. Above: Water tower as rooftop sculpture; a common New York City sight. Above: Keen on planting abundant and “tough” perennials, Weiss anchors the space with roses, lavenders, and late-flowering tardiva hydrangeas. Annuals including zinnias, cosmos, and dahlias (Shown) add color and late-season interest. Above: Weiss lines the perimeter with lacy tardiva hydrangeas, “a great white hydrangea that does well with the wind on the roof.” Above: Secret garden: a pergola and chairs.
We don’t hate chrysanthemums. Let’s just get that out of the way. There is a lot to be said for their instant, impulse-buy autumnal cheer. A pot on the stoop (with a pumpkin or two), as the clock ticks towards Halloween, is welcoming. But muffin-top mums, rounded and mounded in a way that nature did not intend—left to their own devices, naturally-elegant perennial chrysanthemums are leggy and loose—have saturated the market. Their inescapable presence as October unspools makes it very easy to forget how many other flowers relish autumn.
The list of fall flowers is long, so here is a choice (albeit biased) collection.
Above: Fall flowers from Willow Wisp Organic Farm, at the Grand Army Plaza greenmarket in Brooklyn.
Celosia
Above: Celosia is a warm-weather annual whose flowers peak in fall.
In terms of commercial success, annual Celosia is beginning to nudge chrysanthemums off that front stoop. I see potfuls at my local deli in Brooklyn, at Whole Foods, at the market. Their rich, cockscomb colors are made for fall. These African annuals have taken off in the US. Aside from their tasseled ornamental appeal, the plants are in fact vegetables. They are eaten as cooked, leafy greens in their homeland and are reminiscent of amaranth greens, in flavor and texture.
Zinnias are a genus of annuals native to Mexico and Central America. They are one of the most rewarding cut flowers to enjoy as the weather cools. Available in a rainbow of colors (only blues are missing), more zinnia cultivars are being developed to withstand the mildew that sometimes bothers their leaves in humid climates. The blooms attract butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees.
Above: Dahlias at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden in October.
Dahlias might be the queens of autumn bouquets. Ranging from compactly petite pom-poms to ruffled flowers the size of side plates, with colors from candy stripes to rich jewel hues, the long-stalked flowers are cut-and-come-again for weeks from late summer through frost. Dahlias are hardy from USDA zones 8 to 10.
Tithonia
Above: Tithonia blooms from late summer till frost and is a boon to bees.
After it begins to flower in late summer, Mexican and Southwestern native annual Tithonia continues to blaze with color as nights dip into the 50s. The plant grows tall (upwards of five feet) and the blooms are very attractive to bees and other pollinators.
Marigold
Above: Annual marigolds (flor de muerto), play a key role in Día de los Muertos rituals in late October and early November.
The assertive scent of marigolds is a floral signal that the season has changed. Days are losing light, and the year’s end is approaching, staved off by celebrations that honor souls that have passed. Garlands of marigolds are a necessity for the Day of the Dead, and have a place at Halloween tables, too: The flowers are long-lasting in a vase, and marigold petals are edible. The plants have long been valued in companion planting traditions, and science bears this out: They secrete chemicals that deter nematodes and other pathogens.
African Blue Basil, Ocimum kilimandscharicum x basilicum
Whether you garden in-ground or in a single windowbox, there is a plant that will lure every pollinator in the neighborhood to your green space. African blue basil’s myriad flowers, in bloom for months, guarantee a flurry of constant and diverse pollinator activity from morning until twilight, and from early summer until frost. There is never a dull moment. And with the right plant for pollinators, even a tiny urban space can contribute to a pollinator pathway—a pesticide and herbicide-free corridor of plants that provides food and shelter for pollinating insects, which are in decline due to loss of habitat and to widespread pesticide use.
It doesn’t hurt either that spending ten minutes on a bee safari is a very effective way of disconnecting from digital noise and reconnecting with the small things that matter.
Above: Windowbox-grown African blue basil in late summer on my Brooklyn terrace.
In a small space every inch counts, and the ideal plant has to work hard: It should be low-maintenance, bloom for months, have fragrant and edible leaves, and offer an irresistible nectary for a host of beneficial insects. That’s asking a lot. A very small handful of plants checks all those demanding boxes. African blue basil comes out pretty much at the top.
Above: A native carpenter bee visits African blue basil.
Native plant advocates might frown at a non-native being promoted for pollinators, but there are some mitigating factors to consider. Not everyone has the space for a collection of native perennials chosen for a bloom-sequence staggered for months-long interest (with a couple of exceptions, most perennials tend to flower for just a few weeks). And some perennials, like milkweeds and bee balms, resent being potted and perform best in-ground. City gardeners are often confined to containers, while most urban dwellers have no more than a windowsill to grow anything. African blue basil fits this demographic perfectly.
Would you like to perk up your garden this winter? This guide to the best winter plants for pots has lots of gorgeous plant suggestions to inspire you.
What are the best plants for winter pots?
This post covers twenty five plants for winter pots that will give you a fabulous floral display or provide foliage and interest throughout the coldest months. There are also lots of tips on planting and caring for your winter containers so they really put on a show for you, plus a guide to the best tools for container gardening to help you get organised.
Why you should grow plants in pots in winter
Winter is a time of year when we tend to use our gardens less. The days are shorter, winter weather can be uninviting, and lots of plants shut down until spring arrives again.
Having said that, we’re all much more used to using our outdoor spaces regardless of the weather these days. As a result, you’re probably keener than ever to give your garden year-round interest. Your garden can make up a significant proportion of your home’s available space; when you think about it from this angle, it makes no sense to stop using it just because the season has changed!
If your winter garden is in need of a lift, growing winter flowering plants in pots is a simple and relatively low-cost way to create colour and interest. Growing plants in containers has many other benefits too.
Benefits of growing winter flowering plants in pots
For starters, gardening in containers can be very low maintenance. Looking after a plant in a pot is quicker and easier than dealing with an entire border. This is a particularly useful aspect of container gardening in winter, when you might prefer not to linger outdoors. If you’re short on time, focusing your efforts on container plants can allow you to quickly create a beautiful display that doesn’t take hours to look after.
If you don’t have much gardening experience, starting as a container gardener is an ideal way to ease yourself in. Growing plants in pots allows you to work on a small scale, then move onto bigger displays as you gain confidence and learn more.
That small scale gardening is also perfect if you don’t have much outdoor space. You can use pots and hanging baskets to create wow factor in the tiniest of spaces. You don’t even need a garden. You can squeeze a pot onto a window ledge, balcony, or doorway, and use hanging pots or stacking planters to create a vertical display.
When it comes to beginner gardening for kids, containers are ideal here too. Again, the smaller scale makes things easier, and it’s fun to give them their very own pot to look after. The container itself has lots of potential for nature play as well. Kids can personalise it with paints or chalk, make their own plant markers, or upcycle household objects to create unique decorations.
Another big plus for gardening in pots is their portability. If your plants aren’t thriving or you’d like to rearrange your display, you can easily move containers around. And if you rent your property or are planning on moving, you can take them with you!
Where should I put my winter containers?
You might be wondering whether it’s OK to grow plants in containers in winter when temperatures can get pretty low. The key to creating a beautiful winter container display is to choose hardy outdoor plants for pots, and get the location right for those specific plants. This last element is often referred to as ‘right plant, right place’.
The concept of ‘right plant, right place’ is very simple. If you embrace it, you stand a better chance of growing happy, healthy plants. The knock-on effect of this is a gorgeous garden that you can enjoy at any time of year.
All plants have specific conditions that they will grow well in. This is true whether you grow them in the ground, or in a pot. If you put your winter container somewhere that provides the ideal conditions for the plants, you take a big step towards making sure those plants thrive.
Conversely, if you put your winter plants in a spot that provides conditions they don’t like, you will limit their ability to do well.
Some plants enjoy full sun, some prefer full shade, and some are happy with partial shade. Your plants might prefer a sheltered spot, or be fine with weathering the elements. You may need to provide soil with good drainage, or water frequently. All of these things will vary according to the type of plant you’re growing.
To work out the ideal conditions for a particular plant, start by checking the care label. If there isn’t one, or it doesn’t have much information on it, you can use a plant identification app or look it up online.
Once you know how to make your plant happy, you’re ready to work out the perfect spot in the garden for your winter container.
Annual vs. perennial plants
Before you buy any outdoor plants for pots, it’s worth understanding the difference between annual vs. perennial plants.
Annual plants will grow, flower and die in one growing season (or year). This means you have to replace them regularly.
Perennial plants continue to grow year on year, so you won’t need to replace them very often. Some varieties of perennial plant die back in winter and have a dormant phase before emerging again in spring, while others are hardy evergreen perennials.
It’s absolutely fine to grow annual and perennial plants in pots. You can also combine the two in the same pot.
Most plants sold for container planting are annual plants. You will probably see them referred to as ‘bedding plants’ in garden centres and online. As you can imagine, relying on annual plants for your containers can quickly work out more expensive than using perennials.
A good approach is to go for a combination of annual and perennial plants in your containers. This allows you to keep costs down, but still refresh your display of outdoor plants in pots with seasonal plants.
When should I plant winter bedding plants?
The best time to plant winter bedding plants is late autumn and early winter. Planting containers at this point will give your plants time to become established, and give a natural progression from your late summer and early autumn flowering plants.
If you’re reading this later in winter, don’t worry. You can plant winter bedding plants throughout the winter months, and into early spring too. Obviously the later you plant, the longer it will take your plants to grow bigger and get established.
The best winter plants for pots and hanging baskets
Ready to get started on your winter flower pots? Here are some fantastic winter plants for containers and hanging baskets that will help you create a show-stopping display.
There are sections for flowering plants, bulbs, foliage plants and shrubs for pots, with twenty five gorgeous varieties to inspire you.
Flowering winter plants for pots
When it comes to winter flowering plants for pots, there are a lot of great options to choose from. Here are some perfect flowering plants to grow in winter containers and winter hanging baskets.
Winter flowering Pansies & Violas
You can’t have a list of favourite winter plants for outdoor pots without pansies and violas! They’re inexpensive, and readily available in a wide range of colours. These tough little plants are a great option for bulking out your displays and adding a shot of cheery colour right through winter. Deadhead them regularly for best results (scroll down to find out how to do this).
Cyclamen
Another must-have for a winter pot, hardy cyclamen will cope admirably with winter conditions and bloom from autumn right through to spring. Some cyclamen varieties need to be grown indoors, so make sure you go for Cyclamen hederifolium or Cyclamen coum for your outdoor pots.
When you decide to refresh your containers, you can transfer your cyclamen plants to a shady spot in the garden. They look particularly good alongside ferns and other woodland plants.
Primroses
If you’re wondering ‘What can I plant now for winter colour?’, then primroses could be the plant for you.
Pay a visit to any garden centre in winter, and you’re pretty much guaranteed to find a big display of primroses. They’re often available in strong colours, so if you like the idea of a powerful display they make a good, low-cost filler for your pots. If you’re gardening with kids, those bright colours are always a big hit too.
Heather
Heather plants will give your winter pots lots of texture. Choose from a subtle white or cream variety, or go for a big hit of colour with shades of pink and purple. Winter heather is a good choice if you want to garden for wildlife too, and will provide a source of nectar and pollen for pollinating insects at a time of year when other plants haven’t really got going. As such, it’s a fantastic plant for a bee friendly garden.
Heathers prefer to grow in acidic soil, so to give them the best conditions you should aim to plant them in *ericaceous compost.
Ornamental kale & ornamental cabbage
Ornamental kale and ornamental cabbages may look similar to their edible cousins, but they don’t taste great! They do however look wonderful when combined with other winter plants. Use them to add a modern, unusual twist to a pot display.
Bulbs for winter pots
If you’re looking to plant a winter container that’s thrifty and low-effort, but that also looks amazing, you should definitely include some flower bulbs.
Lots of flowering bulbs really put on a show in spring, but some varieties get going in late winter. These early bloomers are a fantastic way to keep your containers looking good until the spring flowers take over.
If you’re not very confident about growing bulbs, I’ve got a whole blog post on planting bulbs that will help you get it right.
Here are some suggestions for ideal bulbs to grow with winter plants in pots.
Iris reticulata
These compact varieties of Iris are one of the first bulbs to flower in late winter, making them a fantastic choice if you’d like to keep your winter planters going right into spring. Popular varieties include Pauline, Harmony and Frozen Planet (icy white).
Irises look gorgeous planted on their own in a pot, or you can mix them in with winter bedding plants to create extra impact. You can also ‘force’ iris bulbs to flower early indoors; my post on forcing bulbs indoors shows you how to do it.
Winter Aconites
Another great bulb for a winter display, *winter aconites will create a cheery clump of sunny yellow winter flowers for pots. Pollinating insects love them too.
Crocus
Early flowering and really low maintenance plants, crocus are a great option for winter potted plants. You’re spoilt for choice with varieties; there are shades of purple, cream, yellow and white, plus a range of heights to suit your pot.
*Crocus bulbs work well in a bulb lasagne too, this is a clever way to layer up bulbs in a pot and top them with bedding plants to create a display that lasts beyond the end of the season. My post on planting a bulb lasagne shows you how to do it.
Snowdrops
Snowdrops are often the first flowers we see in the garden towards the end of winter, and as such they can bring a taste of the spring to come when you plant them in winter pots.
*Snowdrop bulbs are usually planted in autumn, but you can also buy them as plants in late winter. This is often called buying them ‘in the green’.
Hyacinths
Hyacinths really deliver on flowers and fragrance, making them a great addition to a winter flowering container.
Like irises, you can ‘force’ *hyacinths for early indoor blooms. However you plant them, make sure you wear gloves while handling the bulbs, as they can cause skin irritation.
Winter foliage plants for pots
Foliage plants are an important part of a winter container display. They can provide texture, height and structure to your arrangement, and if you choose the right plants they can be a showstopper in their own right too.
Here are my favourite foliage plants for winter pots.
Heuchera
Heucheras (also known as coral bells) are fantastic foliage plants for a winter container garden. They flower in the summer, but it’s their leaves that we’re really interested in for winter.
You can get hold of *heuchera plants in a range of colours, which makes it easy to complement your planting scheme with these foliage stunners.
Ivy
If you’re looking for trailing winter plants for pots, ivy is a great choice. Ivys are great plants for hanging pots too.
Ivy can be a bit of a thug in the garden, crowding out other plants and generally taking over. Growing it in a container avoids all of this, allowing you to enjoy it’s beautiful leaves without the hassle. Ivy is a fabulous winter source of food and shelter for pollinating insects and local wildlife too.
The trailing habit of ivy is particularly useful for softening the edges of a container or hanging basket. It’s also a clever way to create a bigger container display from the same size of pot.
Cineraria
This is one of my favourite foliage plant for pots outdoors – my garden is full of it! Cineraria has silver-white foliage with a soft tactile surface, and it provides a beautiful textured backdrop for your winter-flowering plants. In my experience it’s a tough little plant too, so if you trim it back regularly you might find that it’s an element of your containers that you don’t need to replace.
Calocephalus
I love using this foliage plant in containers too. It’s super-tough, but the silvery stems look delicate and frothy; it always makes me think of coral. A great plant for contrasting with deep purple flowers or foliage.
Festuca glauca
An ornamental grass is an excellent choice for a pot display, and if you choose an evergreen variety you can enjoy it as part of your winter planters.
*Festuca glauca has slim, blue-green blades and forms a neat, compact dome of foliage. I think it works particularly well in contemporary container planters.
Phormium
This upright grass is ideal for giving a pot structure and height. There’s a range of colours to choose from, including varieties that incorporate yellows, pinks, and deep burgundy.
While *Phormiums are pretty tough plants, it’s a good idea to grow them in a sheltered spot in winter.
Winter flowering shrubs for containers
Don’t ignore shrubs when it comes to your pots. There are lots of lovely compact varieties that will provide you with flowers, structure or interest in winter. Here are some great varieties to try.
Skimmia japonica
This one isn’t strictly a flowering plant, but the berries more than make up for that. With its glossy evergreen leaves and bright red berries, Japanese skimmia is a brilliant plant to liven up a winter pot.
To guarantee those lovely berries, you need to buy a female plant (such as ‘Nymans’, ‘Temptation’ or ‘Kew White’), and also have a male plant (such as ‘Rubella’ or ‘Kew Green’) nearby.
Wintergreen
If you need a smaller berried plant, *Wintergreen (also known as partridge berry, checkerberry and Gaultheria procumbens) is perfect. It’s dainty and low-growing, and will give your pots a festive feel.
Hellebore
Another perfect candidate for low maintenance outdoor potted plants in winter. This lovely perennial plant will flower from midwinter onwards, providing delicate but impressive blooms at a time when most other plants are still dormant.
*Hellebores are available in shades of white, pink, purple and even apricot, and are perfectly capable of dealing with a cold season, frost, and snowy conditions. Combine them with other plants, or stick to a hellebore-only container for a simple but stunning effect.
Winter clematis will benefit from some shelter. Try to grow them close to the house or against a house wall, where they will enjoy the slightly warmer temperatures.
Winter flowering honeysuckle
Winter honeysuckles are another option for climbing plants for pots. Lonicera fragrantissima or Lonicera x purpusii ‘Winter Beauty’ both have creamy white flowers and that incredible honeysuckle fragrance.
To get the best out of climbing shrubs for pots, make sure the container has access to an *obelisk, trellis or other type of plant support.
Camellia
Camellias make fantastic low maintenance evergreen plants for pots. You can choose from shades of red, white, pink and cream, all with shiny green leaves and stunning flowers.
You need to grow camellias in acidic soil, so go for *ericaceous compost to keep them happy. If you can use rainwater to water them, they will be even more content. Camellias also enjoy a more sheltered location; an easy way to provide this is to position them near the house.
Photinia ‘Little Red Robin’
If you’re planting a large winter container, this evergreen shrub will make a great addition. It will put on a show with bright red leaves that change to deep green as they mature. In spring you get white flowers too.
Sweet box
Another good option for large containers, *sweet box (Sarcococca confusa) has dense evergreen foliage and produces an abundance of delicate white flowers from midwinter onwards. The flowers are highly fragranced too, so make sure you position it somewhere that you walk past regularly to make the most of the gorgeous scent.
Daphne Odora ‘Aureomarginata’
Still on the fragrant flowers theme, the flowers on *Daphne Odora ‘Aureomarginata’ are pale pink and deliver a huge hit of fragrance. It needs a larger container as it can reach heights of 1.5 metres, but it will definitely earn its space.
Should I repot my plants after buying?
Unless you’re buying a ready-made container display, you should always repot your plants after you’ve bought them.
The plants will most likely have reached the limits of their pots, and will benefit from a bigger container and access to more compost.
Take the pot off the plant, and you’ll probably see that the roots are filling up the space. If the roots have grown out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, this is another sign that the plant is ready to move on!
When it comes to tools, gardening in containers is pretty low-tech. However, there are some basic tools that you should consider getting hold of to make things easier and help your plants do well.
A *hand trowelwill come in handy for planting, re-potting and weeding.
If you’d prefer to protect your hands, *gardening gloves are a must. There are lots of different sizes and materials out there, but for me the most important thing is to find a pair that allows your hands to move well while you’re wearing them.
A pair of *secateurs are ideal for pruning your plants and removing dead flower heads. If you’ve chosen smaller plants for small pots you might prefer a pair of *snips – these are fantastic for deadheading too.
And finally, a *watering can is pretty essential. Go for one that has a ‘rose’ head attachment, this will prevent you accidentally flooding your pots. A *mini watering can is a good option for smaller containers – and you can use it on your houseplants as well.
Don’t forget your pots and hanging baskets too!
Choosing containers for hardy outdoor potted plants
When you’re choosing your pots, stick to these two rules.
Make sure there are drainage holes in the bottom. If you’ve fallen in love with a pot that doesn’t have drainage holes, you will need to either make your own holes, or add an inner plant pot with drainage holes.
Choose a pot that’s the right size for your plants. How many do you want to put in it? How big are they going to get? Ideally you should go for a pot that’s big enough for at least a year, to keep your plants happy and save you from having to repot them regularly.
The rest of the decision-making process is absolutely up to you. There’s a huge amount of choice out there and you can easily find a colour, shape, style and material to suit your own tastes and the look of your outdoor space.
It’s also well worth considering a spot of upcycling here; so many household items make great plant pots. Here are a few ideas to get you started.
An old teapot
A chimney pot
A kitchen colander
An old sink
A storage crate
An old pair of wellies
A watering can
The best compost for outdoor container plants
If you’re growing plants in pots, it’s really important to give them good compost. Our best compost for pots guide covers this in detail, but here’s a quick overview.
Plants that grow in the ground can easily access the nutrients they need in the soil around them. Plants grown in containers however are restricted by the pot, and as a result they will eventually exhaust the nutrients available. When this happens, your plants will start to look less healthy and may struggle to grow.
To avoid the problem of starved winter container plants, always use a good quality *peat-free compost.
You should be fine to use general-purpose compost for the majority of your container plants, but some plants do need a particular type of compost in order to grow well. The plant label should tell you if this is the case.
There is also compost available that has been specifically designed to support plants grown in pots and baskets. This type of compost is usually enriched with slow-release fertiliser and water-retaining crystals. As well as helping your plants to thrive, it’s a good option if you’re keen to keep the plant maintenance to a minimum, or you’re not very confident about taking care of your pots.
How to plant a winter container
Once you’ve got your plants, your pots, and your tools, you’re ready to create some beautiful seasonal displays. Here’s a quick guide to planting outdoor pots for winter.
Start by adding a layer of ‘crocks’ (these are simply broken pieces of an old pot) or small stones to the bottom of your pot. This will help excess water to drain away.
Add compost to your pot until it’s almost full.
Carefully remove each plant from its pot – try to avoid damaging the root system. A good way to do this is to slide your fingers around the base of the plant, then tip the plant over and ease the pot away with your other hand.
Arrange your plants on top of the soil. You can move them around until you’re happy with the layout. It’s a good idea to position taller plants at the back of the pot, and make sure any trailing plants are near an edge so they can spill over.
When you’re happy with your layout, fill in any gaps around the plants with more compost.
Finish by watering your pot, and pop it in its final position.
Care tips for winter plants in pots
Caring for your beautiful winter plants display is pretty low-effort. Focus on these key areas, and you’ll be giving your plants the best chance of doing well.
Feeding winter plants in pots
As I’ve already mentioned, a container plant will eventually use up all the nutrients in the compost. To stop this being a problem, you can feed your plants regularly with a general-purpose plant food.
You can choose the format of your plant food to suit your own preference. A *concentrated liquid needs to be diluted before you use it (the packaging will tell you how to do this), so you will need a watering can for this option. Plant food is also available in *granule form which you add to your compost when planting, and *ready-to-use liquid feed which you simply pour into your pot. If you’re nervous about getting the feeding right, the last option is definitely the easiest way to do it, but bear in mind it’s probably also the most expensive and least eco-friendly way to feed your plants.
If you’re keen on sustainable gardening or are gardening on a budget, you can have a go at making your own plant feed from nettle or comfrey leaves. This is a particularly good option if you like to garden organically. This video shows you how to make natural plant food:
Watering outdoor potted plants in winter
Plants grown in containers will dry out faster than plants grown in the ground, for a couple of reasons. Firstly, there’s a limit to how much water that the compost can retain. Plus, the sides of the pot get exposed to warmer temperatures than the ground, this heats up the compost which in turn causes more evaporation.
You might not need to water your container plants at all during winter, but it’s still a good idea to check the soil regularly. To do this, simply poke your finger into the soil surface; if it feels dry, you need to water your plants. Moist soil doesn’t need to be watered.
Winter plants for pots: the importance of drainage
While it’s important to make sure your plants aren’t too dry, it’s also crucial to prevent your pots from getting too damp.
The majority of plants really dislike having their roots in a puddle of water. Soggy roots can quickly rot, and root rot will kill your plant. This is particularly relevant in colder months, when water is much less likely to evaporate and the weather is generally more wet. In addition, excess water can freeze, which is also really bad news for plant roots.
The way to avoid this problem is to do everything you can to allow excess water to drain out of your containers and provide your plants with well-drained soil.
Those drainage holes I keep going on about play a big role here – so choose your containers for your winter displays carefully.
Putting crocks or stones in the bottom of your container will also help with drainage.
You can also improve the drainage of your compost by adding materials such as grit or *perlite. This creates a more open soil structure which allows water to drain more effectively, resulting in better drained soil.
Another simple way to avoid soggy containers is to use *pot feet or bricks to lift your pots off the ground. Leaving your pots on the ground makes them more likely to become waterlogged in winter. Raising them up an inch or two will help water to drain away more easily.
How to keep your winter flowering plants blooming
Would you like to get as many flowers as possible from your winter plants? Of course you would!
Deadheading is a brilliant way to make sure your winter plants in pots give you a long-lasting display of flowers. The added bonus is it’s really quick and easy to do.
Deadheading is all about removing flowers that are dead, drooping, or forming seed heads. Taking these off the plant prevents it from setting seed, which in turn stimulates it to grow more flowers.
To remove old flowers, just pinch them off with your fingers, or use *secateurs or *snips to make the job even easier.
You should aim to deadhead your plants regularly, this will help to create a steady supply of blooms. It’s the kind of gardening job you can tackle whenever you’ve got a couple of spare minutes, so it’s not hard to fit it in.
How do I protect my potted plants in the winter?
By choosing plants that are happy to grow outdoors in winter, you will go a long way towards keeping your potted plants healthy.
One of the key things to pay attention to is drainage, which we’ve already covered. Getting the water levels right in your containers is really important in winter, so make sure you stay on top of this by checking your pots on a regular basis.
If your plants look like they’re struggling, you can try moving the pot to a more sheltered spot such as near a house wall or away from wind.
Can you leave potted plants outside in the winter?
If you’ve chosen winter hardy container plants, they should be OK outside in winter. If, however, you have tender plants in pots, it’s a good idea to move them to a more sheltered location until the weather warms up again. My post on protecting plants from frost and cold weather covers this in more detail and talks about plants that can survive winter outside.
And that’s it! Everything you need to know about the best outdoor winter plants for pots, and how to take proper care of them. I hope this guide has inspired you to create some fabulous winter plant displays – tell me what plants are on your wish list in the comments 🙂
More container gardening ideas and resources
If you’d like some more ideas for container gardening and plant inspiration, I’ve got you covered.
With their iconic vibrant petals and reputation for hardiness, it’s no wonder sunflowers are one of the best selling flowers year after year. These easy to grow plants come in numerous varieties depending on what colours and sizes you need for your garden or arrangements. If you’re ready to add this staple to your summer garden, this post covers everything you need to learn about how to grow sunflowers.
Sunflowers just might be the perfect low-maintenance yet eye catching addition to your garden. These striking plants are a staple, and they’re easy to grow.
You’ll find sunflowers at the florist stand of your local farmers market and lining fences in your neighbourhood during the heat of summer into the early fall.
While the bright yellow flowers of the common sunflower (or Helianthus annuus) are classic, different variations can add contrasting colours to your garden. You can even grow a variety of sizes, making them a great choice for arrangements!
Here’s what I’ll be talking about today…
This giant sunflower was a Mother’s Day gift from Kiddo, who was approximately 5 in this photo!
Meet the Sunflower
Native to North America, sunflowers are best known for their vibrant yellow petals, which resemble rays of sunshine.
Besides their decorative function, sunflowers can be used to increase the production of other crops, such as corn and squash, in a method similar to the Three Sisters’. This is a method of companion planting that indigenous people of North America have been doing for thousands of years.
When it comes to learning how to grow sunflowers, there are two types you should know: single-stem and branching.
Single-stem or non-branched sunflowers are recognizable by their long, straight stems, which make them useful for floral arrangements. These plants produce one flower per seed, and the sizes can vary depending on how far apart they are planted. Species of single-stem sunflowers include the Marley and Procut Bicolour varieties, as well as the Sunrich Series.
Large sunflowers tend to be single stem.
Branching sunflowers, which include the Chocolate, Greenburst, and Starburst Panache varieties, produce more flowers over a longer period of time, with multiple stems in a more bushy growth pattern. As a result, they require more room to grow.
There are also some species of perennial sunflowers.
If you are hoping for a garden that doesn’t require planting each year, these would be a great option. Though smaller than the large yellow blooms you’re used to, perennial sunflowers can still add a pop of brightness to your low-maintenance garden.
Branching sunflowers have many off-shoots, as you can see in this picture.
How to Grow Sunflowers
Whether you’re hoping to add a festive touch to an already established garden or sowing your first seeds, their beauty and hardiness make sunflowers a great choice. If you’re ready to get planting, this grow guide has everything you need to know.
This collage was one of the very first photos I shared on Garden Therapy 15 years ago!
When and Where to Plant Sunflowers
Though sunflowers are typically associated with the late summer and early fall, they can be planted in the spring as soon as the weather warms up and frost is no longer a concern.
I prefer to get my sunflowers started inside due to the fickle nature of spring in Canada and the abundance of slugs in my ecosystem. If you’re doing the same, plant your seeds 2-3 weeks before you plan to transplant them into the garden. You’ll know they’re ready to be moved outside, when your sprouts are 3-5 inches tall.
You can also plant your seeds directly in your garden. I find that when I directly seed them, either the birds eat the seeds or the slugs eat the sprouts. So make sure to protect them with netting or a cloche until they are about five inches tall.
Whether you’re planting inside or outside, make sure to fully cover your seeds with soil, as sunflowers (ironically) sprout in the dark.
Sunflowers don’t require any special soil, so whatever garden or potting soil you’ve got will do.
Sunflower stalks typically grow thick enough that they don’t need support, unless they’re not getting enough sun.
Light
As the name suggests, sunflowers need plenty of light. In order to thrive, they require at least 8 hours of direct sunlight. That shady spot next to your fence is not the place to plant these light-loving flowers.
If sunflowers don’t get enough sun, they become leggy and weak, being more likely to snap.
Water
Sunflowers require the most water after they’re first planted, so water your sprouts often to keep the soil damp.
After your sunflowers are established, they are considered a low-maintenance, drought-resistant plant. Water them regularly, but don’t worry if the soil dries out between waterings. During intense heat, they may need some extra moisture.
This teddy bear sunflower was in my GardenTrends seed collection.
Pruning
If you’re growing single-stem sunflowers, there is no need to worry about pruning.
For branching varieties, I recommend pinching your plants back to 4 leaves once they grow to be 12-18 inches. If you’re harvesting your sunflowers, cutting the blooms from the base of the stem can also help encourage new growth.
When the seeds are fully ripe, they begin to loosen from the head. You can cut the sunflower and save the seeds for next year.
Common Pests and Diseases
Your sunflowers are most vulnerable in the early stages of germination. This is one reason to consider starting the seeds indoors and transplanting them into your garden.
However, if you’ve opted to plant your seeds directly in the ground, covering the sprouts can help protect them from birds, deer, and other animals. I like to use lightweight netting or cloche, but any sort of chicken wire or fencing will do the trick.
I also recommend changing where you plant your sunflowers each year to help prevent disease.
Once grown and gone to seed, sunflowers can be a great food source for pollinators.
How to Grow Sunflowers in Containers
Planting sunflowers in pots can be a great option if you have limited outdoor space.
Many varieties will grow well in a container or bag as long as it has drainage holes. Just keep in mind these sunflowers will be smaller than those planted directly in the ground.
Make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the mature sunflower, even when it’s a dwarf variety.
How to Harvest Sunflowers
If you’re growing sunflowers in hopes of decorating your kitchen table, I highly suggest choosing a pollen-free variety to save yourself the cleanup and avoid ruining that new pastel tablecloth.
You can harvest your sunflowers as soon as the first petals start to unfurl. To extend the life of your sunflowers without adding any chemical preservatives, make sure to remove the leaves from the stem, leaving only the top leaf.
Your beautiful sunflowers will last about a week in a vase. Keep in mind that a warm environment will speed up the flower’s opening. If you’re saving them for a specific occasion, you can place them in a cooler area of your home to slow down the blooming process.
Place your sunflowers away from sunlight and heat to prolong their vase life.
FAQs About Growing Sunflowers
Do sunflowers really track the sun?
While sunflowers do respond to light, they don’t move in the way you’re probably picturing. In other words, their heads do not rotate throughout the day along with the sun.
Contrary to popular belief, sunflowers only respond to light before they flower. During this stage, more growth occurs on the sunniest side of the stem, causing the flower to eventually tilt to one side, usually east.
How far apart do you plant sunflowers?
Spacing your seeds correctly is an important part of learning how to grow sunflowers. For branching sunflowers, 18-24 inches is the ideal space between seeds, as these types of sunflowers grow large quite quickly.
The spacing of single-stem sunflowers is up to you, as you can control the size of your sunflower blooms by changing the spacing of seeds. I find leaving 4-6 inches of space between seeds gives me the perfect flowers for bouquets. If you’re hoping for larger sunflowers, just space your seeds out more.
What is a good sunflower germination temperature?
Sunflower seeds like warm soil temperatures of about 21-25℃ for optimal growth. Make sure to wait until the weather has warmed and the overnight frost has passed. If you live in a cooler climate like I do, you may want to consider starting your seeds inside.
How long should it take for a sunflower to grow?
Once your seeds are in the ground or a pot, it won’t take long for them to start growing. You’ll likely notice sprouts poking through in just a few days.
From there, depending on the variety, your sunflowers will start blooming 2-3 months later. Some types of sunflowers take up to 110 days to grow flowers.
If you’re looking for a vibrant, beginner-friendly addition to your garden, zinnias are an excellent choice. With large blooms and a variety of colour and size options, these beautiful flowers are easy to grow and harvest. They’ll look beautiful in your garden and in a vase! If you’re ready to get planting, here is everything you need to know about how to grow zinnias.
If you’ve ever taken a stroll through a flower garden or even the floral department at your local grocery store, you’re likely familiar with zinnias. Known for their vibrant colours, these flowers are a popular choice for gardeners and florists alike.
Not only do zinnias come in a variety of colours and sizes, but they are also known for producing multiple blooms. West Coast Seeds recently sent me some zinnia seeds, so you can bet I’m going to be on a zinnia kick here soon.
So, if you’re like me and want to adorn your dining room table with freshly cut flowers, these plants can provide a magnificent addition to your arrangement all summer long. If you prefer to leave your petals outside, you can even grow zinnias in pots.
These hearty, low-maintenance plants are perfect for newcomers looking to grow something beautiful and an old standby for more experienced gardeners.
Zinnia flowers come in all kinds of colours and combinations.
Meet the Zinnia
Zinnias are recognizable by their full, round blooms that come in just about every colour under the sun. It was these bright hues that earned them their original Aztec name, which translates to “plants that are hard on the eyes.” Native to Mexico and Central America, the flowers got the name zinnia from German botanist Johann Gottfried Zinn, who brought the plant to Europe in the 1700s.
Now, the zinnia is popular for many reasons. Their colour and size varieties make them a versatile medium for florists and the perfect aesthetic choice for gardeners looking to curate their flowerbeds. They can also help improve the overall health of your garden as they attract pollinators, such as bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.
If you’re looking to take advantage of this easy-to-grow flower, there are many zinnia varieties to choose from. One of my personal favourites is the Oklahoma salmon variety. As the name suggests, these zinnias boast muted pink and peach hues, which make a lovely, warm addition to any garden or bouquet.
If you’re looking for a more vibrant flower, the yellow flame zinnia might be for you. Its gradient of yellow, orange, and magenta evokes a fiery sunset. The queen series is another popular family of zinnias, available in striking green, red, and purple varieties.
Zinnias are annuals, but grow into large plants quick.
How to Grow Zinnias
Zinnias are known for being the intro to cut flowers, as they’re quite simple to grow and hardy to cutting. If you’re foraying into growing a cut flower garden, then this is the perfect place to start.
When and Where to Plant Zinnias
If you live in a warm climate, you can plant zinnia seeds directly in the ground as long as you wait at least two weeks after the last frost. Here in Canada, I prefer to start my zinnias inside. When the sprouts are 3-5 inches, they can be planted outside.
I found that my zinnia seeds sprouted QUICK. They should be moved outside within three weeks maximum after germinating, as otherwise, they can get leggy. Zinnias tend to be one of my last flowers to sow indoors.
They are heat and sun lovers, so you don’t want to get them in the ground until things are starting to warm up.
Whether you start them indoors or plant them straight in the ground, your soil should be well-drained and have a neutral pH. Place your zinnia seeds a few inches apart and press them about ¼ inches into the soil.
If you want true-to-seed zinnias, you’ll have to buy them rather than save them.
Light
Zinnias require full sunlight, so be sure to place them in a bright location in your garden or yard. They require at least 8 hours of daylight, but more is even better for these light-loving plants.
I’ve planted them in an area with partial shade before, and the slugs were quick to start munching.
Water
While established zinnias can survive mild drought, hydrated plants produce the most impressive blooms. Once zinnias are planted in the ground, they can be watered deeply once a week.
If you choose to leave them potted, give them a drink when you notice the top inch of soil has dried out.
Zinnias are pretty low maintenance in terms of cut flowers.
Pruning
Pruning is key when learning how to grow zinnias as they are considered a cut and come back flower. This means the more you prune, the more opportunity they have to grow and produce more flowers.
When the stems reach about 10 inches you can start to pinch the tops of them. Harvesting your zinnias is also a great way to encourage growth. If you prefer to leave the flowers, remove the blooms once they start to droop or dry out.
Deadheading will encourage more blooms to grow.
Common Pests and Diseases
Zinnias are fairly resistant to pests, but common insects such as aphids and spider mites can occasionally cause damage. Lighter-coloured varieties are more susceptible to pests, so you may want to harvest these flowers earlier in the season to help avoid damage.
A more common problem with zinnias is powdery mildew, especially in hot and humid areas. Leaving extra space between your seeds can help avoid this problem by providing more airflow. If your zinnias are affected by powdery mildew, baking soda and vinegar solutions can provide a simple and natural remedy.
Zinnias attract pollinators.
How to Grow Zinnias in Containers
If you have limited outdoor space or just prefer to do your gardening in planters, growing zinnias in pots is a great option. Start by selecting a suitable pot. I recommend one that’s at least 12 inches to accommodate the growth of your zinnias. Make sure it has drainage holes.
Fill your chosen container with potting soil, making sure to dampen it before adding the seeds. Zinnia seeds should be placed a few inches apart and gently pressed into the soil. In two days to a week, your seeds will begin to sprout.
After 4-6 weeks, you can place your pot in a sunny spot on your porch, garden, or yard, adding water when the first inch of soil is dry.
Make sure to thin out your seedlings if growing in a pot.
How to Cut Zinnias
You can check if your zinnias are ready to be cut by paying attention to the stem. Carefully shake the stem, holding it about 8 inches below the flower. If it bends, your flowers aren’t quite ready to be cut. If the stem is firm and stays upright, cut from the base of the stem.
When cutting, carry a bucket of water with you so you can place them right in water when harvesting the flowers. Cut in the morning, as this is when the plant is the most hydrated.
Zinnias are considered a “dirty” flower, so adding a drop or two of bleach to the water can help to keep it clean.
Once you place them in a vase, your zinnias will provide a beautiful floral arrangement for 7-10 days.
Refresh your cut flower water every other day to keep them fresh.
FAQs About Growing Zinnia Flowers
Do zinnias come back every year?
Zinnias are annuals, so you’ll need to plant new seeds each spring. Luckily, they’re easy to take care of once you learn how to grow zinnias, and the vibrant blossoms are worth replanting.
You can also save the seeds from your previous zinnias, and it’s quite easy to do so. After the flower head has almost dried on the stem, cut it and allow it to dry completely on a counter. Separate the papery seeds from the flower head and petals and store them in a cool, dry place for next spring.
How do I keep zinnias blooming all summer?
If you want zinnia blooms all summer, I recommend succession planting. During the early summer, plant a new crop every 2 or 3 weeks. This will give you zinnias steadily throughout the season. Also, make sure to stay on top of deadheading to encourage the plant to produce new flowers.
How do you keep zinnias short and bushy?
Pruning is key to caring for zinnias, and it can help achieve the look you’re going for. Once your zinnias grow to about 10 inches, you can pinch the tips of the stems. This will help achieve the bushy look you’re going for.
Though it might seem counterintuitive, cutting back your zinnia will help encourage growth, so make sure to thin out the plant once it starts blooming. If you’re not planning to cut the flowers for an arrangement, remove dried-up flowers regularly.
Will rabbits eat zinnias?
Rabbits do not typically eat these flowers, especially the Zinnia elegans and Z. augustofolio varieties. In fact, zinnias are known to deter rabbits, so if you have a problem with bunnies snacking on your garden, planting Zinnias could be a helpful solution.
Zinnias truly are one of the best cutting flowers to grow, being so easy yet so prolific. If you have any more questions about how to grow zinnias, leave them in the comments below.
Starting flowers from seed may not be as popular as vegetables, but they deserve a spot in your seed-starting tray this spring. By growing annuals from seed, you can have a garden full of colour, fragrance, and pollinators at a fraction of the price. Here are the best annual flowers to start from seed.
Seed starting season is here, and I’ve got more than vegetables and herbs on my mind. Annual flowers are a beautiful way to add quick pops of colour to gardening beds, containers, and baskets.
While just a pack or two of annuals doesn’t cost much, their price can quickly add up if you have multiple pots or spaces to fill. But growing flowers from seed isn’t as difficult as you may think.
The trick is to know which annuals from seed to grow. I have a bunch of recommendations for you, including those that are quick to grow, those that can be directly sown, and those that can get started indoors.
Let’s get into my recommendations!
Begonia ‘Unbelievable Miss Montreal’
Fast Growing Flower Seeds
If you have a short growing season, are getting a late start, or simply want some quick-blooming flowers, these annuals from seeds are some of the quickest and easiest to grow.
Traits: vibrant colours, perennial in temperate areas, cutting flower.
Petunia
Petunia spp.
Days to maturity: 6-8 weeks
Timing: start indoors 10-12 weeks before last frost
Sunlight requirements: full sun
Traits: great in containers and baskets, lots of variety in colour and flower types, fast-growing.
Annuals From Seed to Direct Sow
Many annual flowers can easily be started from seed and enjoyed that same year. Sow these flowers directly in your garden outdoors in the spring and watch them bloom in no time!
Spider Flower
Cleome spp.
Days to maturity: 10-11 weeks
Timing: direct sow 3-4 weeks after last frost
Sunlight requirements: full sun
Traits: exotic looking flowers, attracts beneficial insects and hummingbirds.
Purple Hyacinth Bean
Lablab purpureus
Days to maturity: 12-13 weeks
Timing: direct sow after the danger of frost has passed
Sunlight requirements: full sun
Traits: vining plant, fast growth, showy seed pods.
Here are some other great annuals from seed to start indoors before the growing season. They have longer growing times to reach maturity and need a head start indoors.
Ageratum
Ageratum houstonianum
Days to maturity: 8-10 weeks
Timing: begin indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost
Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade
Traits: looks good in mass plantings, long bloom period, unique blue colour.
Scabiosa
Scabiosa spp.
Days to maturity: 13-14 weeks
Timing: start seeds indoors 4-5 weeks before the last frost
Timing: start seeds 10-12 weeks indoors before last frost
Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade
Traits: edible flower, variety of colours available, cold tolerant and hardy.
Snapdragons
Antirrhinum majus
Days to maturity: 8-12 weeks
Timing: start seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before planting after last frost
Sunlight requirements: full sun to partial shade
Traits: available in a wide range of colours, cutting flower.
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Flowers From Seed
What is the best time to plant flower seeds?
Some annuals from seed require cold stratification to grow. This means it’s typically best to plant them while there is still a chance of frost or in autumn.
Otherwise, most seeds are best planted after the threat of frost has passed or started indoors. Most seed packets will tell you when to start the seeds. For an early start, many gardeners can begin starting seeds 6-8 weeks before the last frost.
How do you start a flower from a seed?
When seed-starting flowers indoors, you’ll want a good quality seed-starting soil mix. You can use many household items as seed starting containers, such as egg cartons or toilet paper tubes.
Moisture is necessary for the seeds to germinate. Keeping the soil damp with a greenhouse dome on top will keep the environment humid. Once the seeds have germinated, they will need lots of sunlight either from a sunny windowsill or a grow light.
For more detailed information on starting seeds indoors, view this post.
What are the easiest flowers to grow from seed?
If you’re looking for easy, then look for annuals from seed that you can directly sow. Beyond supplemental watering and the usual thinning, they should require less maintenance compared to those that need to be started indoors. If you’re a beginner, avoid starting perennials from seed.
Should I sow flower seeds directly?
Direct sowing is the easiest way to grow flowers from seed, but not all flowers are well suited for it. Avoid direct sowing if the seed requires high soil temperatures to germinate or requires a long time to reach maturity.
On the other hand, some flowers don’t like to be transplanted and are best to be only directly sown. Most seed packets should advise on whether or not to direct sow or begin seeds indoors.
Are you looking for advice on the best plants for outdoor pots?
Whether you’re a beginner gardener who’d like to start small with plants in containers, or a seasoned pro who’s keen on planting outdoor pots, there’s lots here to inspire you.
This post on the best plants for pots lists over 30 fantastic low maintenance plants for outdoor pots. I’ve also included simple tips for taking care of your plants so that they thrive and provide you with a gorgeous display, and a quick guide to the basic tools you need for planting containers.
The benefits of growing plants in pots
Growing plants in pots has lots of advantages.
If you’re new to gardening, growing plants in pots is a great way to get started. You can keep things small-scale, moving onto larger displays as you learn and become more confident.
The other element of container gardening that suits new gardeners is the low maintenance aspect. It’s easier and quicker to take care of a plant in a pot than it is to keep on top of a whole garden border. In addition, containers are relatively portable, so if your plant is struggling you can easily move it to a different location before it’s too late.
That portability is a big plus for renters too, because you can take your plants with you when you move.
Containers are also perfect for gardening in small spaces. You don’t even need a garden; you can tuck a pot onto a balcony, outside a front door, or on a window ledge. This makes growing plants in pots a super-easy way to green up your outdoor space regardless of its size.
Gardening in pots, baskets and containers allows you to adjust the height of your garden too. This is particularly helpful if your movement is restricted, or you struggle to garden at ground level. Being able to play with height is also a fantastic way to create a bigger display of plants and flowers in a small space by using a range of pot sizes, trellis or even shelving.
Container gardening is also ideal for children. Kids love having their very own pot to take care of, and it’s easy for them to plant in a smaller space. You can introduce some fun crafting too, by decorating their pot or making plant markers.
Finally, if you don’t have lots of time for gardening, concentrating on growing plants in pots is a good compromise. The smaller scale translates into less time dealing with watering, weeding and pests – and you won’t have to do any digging!
It’s not hard to see why container gardening is so popular, is it?
Do plants grow better in pots or in the ground?
Some plants are better suited to growing in the ground, and some will be more than happy growing in a pot. Choose plants that are well-suited to growing in container planters, and you stand a much better chance of creating a healthy and beautiful container garden. In the gardening world this if often referred to as ‘right plant, right place’.
Right plant, right place
You might have come across the saying ‘right plant, right place’ already; it’s a key element of good garden design, and is often mentioned in gardening programmes and magazines. It’s a simple but powerful approach to helping your plants thrive, and it’s well worth taking a little bit of time to understand the concept.
All plants – regardless of what you grow them in – have their own set of conditions that they will thrive in. Put your plant somewhere that provides these conditions, and you’re already well on the way to making it happy.
The flip side of this idea is that by forcing a plant to grow in conditions it doesn’t naturally enjoy, you will automatically limit how well it does.
The ‘right plant, right place’ concept goes a long way towards explaining why you might have lost plants in the past, and also gives you a simple framework for growing your plants going forward.
So how do you work out the conditions that your plants need? First of all, check the care label. If you don’t have one, look the plant up online, or use a plant identification app. Some plants need full sun, while others are happy growing in full shade. Your plant may need a high humidity level, or love to bake in dry heat. Once you’re armed with this information, you can choose the perfect spot for your container and make sure you’ve given your plants the best possible chance of doing well.
The difference between annual and perennial plants for outdoor pots
If you’re relatively new to gardening, here’s a quick guide to the difference between annual and perennial plants. This will come in handy when you’re choosing your plants and setting your budget.
Annual plants grow, flower and die in one growing season, or year. As a result, you will usually need to replace them with new plants every year.
Perennial plants will grow year after year. They might die back in winter and grow again in spring, or be evergreen. Either way, you shouldn’t need to replace them on a regular basis.
The majority of plants sold in garden centres and online for container planting are annual plants. They’re often labelled as ‘bedding plants’ and common varieties include begonia, pansies, petunia, lobelia and marigolds.
Absolutely. If your perennial plant is suited to growing in a pot, there’s no reason not to. In fact, growing perennial plants in containers is a much more cost-effective way of gardening. It also opens up the range of plants available to you significantly. You can grow flowering plants, shrubs and even small trees perfectly well in pots, if you choose the right variety. Read on to find out what perennials do well in pots.
The best low maintenance plants for outdoor pots
So you’re raring to go with container gardening, and now it’s time to choose your plants. Here are my top picks for low maintenance plants for outdoor pots that will help you create stunning container displays.
Perennial plants for pots
Standard shrubs
A standard shrub is a shrub that has been grown into a specific shape. This is often a lollipop-shape that resembles the structure of a small tree. Standard shrubs are ideal plants to grow in containers, and can be used to create a big impact. They also make ideal tall plants for pots.
Great low-maintenance standard shrubs for outdoor pots include bay, photinia, wisteria, holly and ornamental cherries. I have a miniature ornamental cherry called Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’ which is an absolute stunner in springtime.
Roses
There are many varieties of roses which are well-suited to growing in pots. As the name suggests, a patio rose variety is a perfect choice. I love the white simplicity of ‘Bianco’, but there’s a wide range of colours to choose from.
Succulents
You probably associate succulents with indoor plants, but many varieties are ideal for outdoor pots. You can plant several varieties together to create a desert garden effect, or stick to one type for a more contemporary look. Succulents look fantastic against a gravel background, this is a great way to stop soil splashing onto the leaves too.
Succulents are very low maintenance outdoor potted plants, but they don’t enjoy sitting in soggy soil. Make sure you give them plenty of drainage.
Camellias
If you’d like to introduce an evergreen shrub to your container display, consider a camellia. Their deep green glossy leaves provide interest all year round, and they put on a stunning flower display in early spring. You do need to plant camellias in ericaceous compost and grow them in a sheltered position, but if you get both of these things right they don’t need much in the way of maintenance.
Agapanthus
The restrictive nature of a pot works in your favour when it comes to agapanthus, because it makes the plant produce more flowers. Agapanthus will provide height and showy blooms during summer months, and shades range from white to deep blue. I think they work particularly well in a contemporary setting, and also against a dark backdrop which makes the colour sing out.
Box
If you’d like a formal, sleek look for your container, a clipped box plant is the way to go. These plants are slow-growing, so they’re not cheap to buy, but you can go for a small plant to keep costs down. Having said that, if it’s large plants for pots you’re after, a large box in a lovely pot can make a fabulous focal point.
Because box is slow-growing, you’ll only need to give it a trim every year or so. The rest of the time all it needs is water. Do check whether you live in an area that has a problem with box blight or box tree caterpillar before you buy; if you’re concerned you could go for an alternative evergreen such as yew or bay.
Dwarf buddleja
Dwarf buddlejas are designed to be grown in pots, and offer the low maintenance floral impact of a traditional buddleja plant in a much more compact area. They’re also a fantastic plant for pollinating insects, and particularly loved by butterflies.
Dwarf Lavatera
This is another traditionally large plant that has recently been introduced as a dwarf variety for container gardeners. Dwarf lavatera (or mallow) is a tough plant that will cope with a bit of neglect, and produces masses of pale pink blooms on tall stems. It’s another great plant for pollinating insects too.
Lavender
Lavender is a traditional cottage garden plant, but it also looks amazing in a more contemporary setting. You can also plant lavender in pots. Choose a hardy English variety and you will keep the maintenance to a minimum. Lavender enjoys good drainage, so don’t overwater it. It’s a good idea to plant lavender companion plants alongside to boost wow factor.
Spring flowering bulbs
*Bulbs are well-suited to growing in pots, and you can create a lovely display in spring before your other plants get going. A particularly clever way of doing this is to plant a bulb lasagne, which involves layering your bulbs up in a pot to extend the flowering period. My post on planting a bulb lasagne shows you how to do this.
Hardy geraniums
Hardy geraniums are really low-maintenance, unfussy flowers for pots. They will happily grow in containers, where they will produce masses of flowers for very little effort. You can also divide them when they get bigger and make new plants for free!
Hostas
You don’t have to have flowers to make a big impact in a container. With their large, textured leaves, hostas are perfect specimen plants for containers, providing an impressive foliage display. An added bonus of growing them in pots is that you can keep the slugs and snails off them much more easily.
Heucheras
Another great option for foliage, heucheras are available in many colours from deep purples through to golden bronzes. They work really nicely alongside flowering plants, but also look great on their own or as several different colours grouped together in their own pots.
Hydrangeas
We tend to think of hydrangeas as great big garden border plants, but they will also be happy to grow on a smaller scale in a container. Hydrangeas bloom for months, so you can create real wow factor over a long period of time from just one pot. Do check water levels regularly, as they are thirsty plants.
Grasses
Ornamental grasses are fantastic plants for outdoor pots. Use them to add height, texture and movement to a display. I love using grasses as a foliage backdrop with annual flowering plants. Grasses are also brilliant for providing structure and interest over the winter months; some are evergreen, but even the ones that die back can look stunning if you leave the dead stems intact.
Annual plants for pots
When it comes to annual plants for outdoor pots, there’s a wide range to choose from. Here are my favourite low-maintenance annuals for containers.
Osteospermum
Also known as African Daisies, Osteospermum have lots of cheery daisy-like flowers and are available in a range of colours. I like using them alongside smaller-flowered plants such as lobelia.
Lobelia
Lobelia is a great plant for bulking out a container display. It’s covered in tiny little blue, white or purple flowers, and just keeps on going. You can buy standard or trailing lobelia varieties; I think the trailing ones are particularly useful in containers, as they allow you to soften edges and continue the display over a larger area. They’re one of the best plants for hanging flower baskets too.
Petunias
Petunias are hugely popular container plants, and for good reason. They’re easy to grow, produce masses of flowers, and come in a wide range of colours. If you deadhead them regularly, they will flower for months too.
Verbena
Annual verbena is another versatile bedding plant that you can combine with other plants to create a colourful display. I like to use white varieties of verbena in combination with stronger colours to provide contrast, but there are shades of pink and purple if you’d prefer more ‘oomph’.
Pansies & Violas
Another great low-maintenance annual, pansies and violas will grow pretty much anywhere. They’re happy to flower in colder months too, making them perfect for adding winter interest to your garden.
Sunflowers
Not all sunflowers are six foot giants! There are lots of smaller varieties that are well-suited to containers, including our favourite *Teddy Bear which as you might imagine is wonderfully fluffy.
As well as being real showstoppers, sunflowers will provide your local birds and pollinating insects with a source of food. Sunflowers are perfect plants to grow with kids too. My step-by-step guide to growing sunflowers in pots includes planting advice, care tips and good varieties to grow.
Nigella
Nigella is a truly low-maintenance plant for outdoor pots. You literally scatter the *seeds on the soil, and leave them to grow. Nigella likes to seed itself around the garden, so you may well find more plants growing next year with zero effort from you.
Nasturtium
*Nasturtiums are ideal plants for hanging baskets and pots, providing a bright shot of colour throughout summer. They will tolerate poor soil and cope with whatever space you give them, and as an added bonus the flowers are edible.
Wildflowers
Don’t assume that you need a huge meadow to grow wildflowers. Even a small pot of *wildflowers can provide a rich habitat for local wildlife and a beautiful cottage-garden style display of blooms. Wildflowers are ridiculously low-maintenance too; scatter the seeds, rake them in lightly, water, and that’s it. If you’d like to grow them with the kids, check out my post on growing wildflowers.
Coleus
For striking foliage, you can’t beat coleus. They look brilliant planted together, or used as accents in a mixed container. Some varieties prefer sun and some prefer shade, so check the label before you buy. You can have a go at turning coleus into a houseplant over winter, moving it back into the garden once all chance of frost has gone.
Cineraria
Another fantastic foliage plant for containers, cineraria has beautiful silvery leaves that work really well against pink and purple flowers. Pretty much every container in my garden has cineraria in it! If your garden is in a sheltered spot, the plants may well survive over winter.
Ivy
Last on my list is good old ivy. It’s a trailing plant, so you can use it to extend a display over the edges of your pot, and you can choose from varieties with all-green or variegated leaves to suit your finished look. Growing ivy in containers also means you avoid the problem of it getting out of hand and taking over!
Tips for looking after potted outdoor plants
Getting the right low maintenance plants for outdoor pots is a big part of making a success of container gardens, but there are also a few other factors which will have an impact. Take a look at these simple tips for taking care of outdoor plants in pots, and you’ll be well on the way to becoming a container gardening pro.
The best containers for outdoor plants
When it comes to the actual pots you grow your plants in, there are only a couple of rules. The most important one is to make sure your pot has drainage holes in the bottom. Most plants hate to have their roots sitting in a puddle, and you can quickly kill a plant this way. If your pot doesn’t have holes, you need to either make some (a hammer and a nail do the job nicely on plastic and metal pots), or add an inner plant pot which does have drainage holes before planting.
The other key area to consider is the size of your container. Think about the number of plants you want to grow in it, and the eventual size they will reach. The plant’s label should tell you the size, or you can look it up online. Choose a size that will suit your plants for at least a year, to give them plenty of room to thrive and avoid the need to repot them regularly.
Other than that, it’s really up to you when it comes to the shape, colour, material and style of your pots. You can match the style to your existing outdoor space, or mix things up a bit. There’s also tonnes of potential to upcycle and recycle containers; old teapots, sinks, chimney pots, wellies and storage crates all work well. Just remember to add those drainage holes.
Choosing compost for plants grown in outdoor pots
Compost matters more than ever when plants are grown in pots. If you grow plants in the ground, their roots have easy access to nutrients in the soil, and aren’t restricted by the limits of a pot. In contrast, plants that are grown in containers will quickly exhaust the nutrients available to them from the compost.
For this reason, it’s always a good idea to use a good quality, *peat-free compost for your container plants. A general-purpose compost will be fine for most plants, but some plants require specific compost to help them thrive. Check your plant label for this information.
You can also buy compost that’s designed specifically to support plants grown in containers and hanging baskets. This usually has water-retaining crystals and slow-release fertiliser added. It’s not essential to use this when planting your pots, but it can help reduce the amount of plant maintenance required. If you don’t have lots of time, or tend to neglect your plants, I think it’s a good option.
For more advice on compost and container plants, head over to my guide to the best compost for pots.
Should I repot my plants after buying?
Generally, you should aim to repot your plants into your own containers as soon as you get them home. Ease the pot away from the plant, and you will probably find that the roots are quite compacted. This means the plant will benefit from a larger pot with more compost.
The exception to this rule is when you buy plants that are already potted into an ornamental pot, or a pre-planted container display such as a hanging basket. In both these situations, the plants should already have been provided with the right sized container.
Feeding plants growing in outdoor pots
As your container plants will use up the nutrients in the compost, you should feed them regularly to help them thrive. A general purpose plant food is a simple option, but if you’re growing fruit and veg in containers make sure you go for a plant food designed specifically for these.
Plant food is available in a few different formats. The most common is a *concentrated liquid, which you dilute according to the pack instructions and use to water your plants. You can also buy *granules which should be scattered on the surface of the soil and lightly raked in, and *ready-to-use liquid feed which you just pour into the pot. This last option is great if you’re a bit daunted by the idea of getting the feeding right, but it’s not the cheapest or most recycling-friendly choice.
If you like the idea of being self-sufficient, or are gardening on a budget, you can also make your own natural plant feed from comfrey or nettle leaves. This is a great option for organic gardening. Here’s how to do it:
Drainage for plants grown in pots
I’ve already talked about drainage in terms of holes in the bottom of your container. It’s also a good idea to pop a few stones or broken pieces of terracotta pot into the bottom before you add your compost.
If you’re thinking ‘why do I need to put rocks in the bottom of a planter?’, here’s the answer. Adding a layer of stones will increase the container’s ability to drain away excess water, which in turn helps to provide a more balanced growing environment. This is particularly important in the colder months of the year.
Watering container plants
When it comes to water, a container plant is more reliant on you than a plant that’s grown in the ground. A container will generally dry out much quicker than a garden bed, and not just because there’s a limit on the water in there. The sides of a pot are more exposed to warmer temperatures, which heats up the soil and in turn speeds up evaporation.
In warmer months, check the soil in your containers regularly. If it feels dry to touch, you need to water them. Another telltale sign is drooping plants, but ideally you should move in with the watering can before this stage.
Try to avoid watering your containers at the warmest part of the day, so you don’t lose as much water to evaporation. Watering in the early morning is ideal, and the next best option is early evening.
You could also add some *watering retaining crystals to your compost when potting up your containers. This will help to keep moisture levels more steady, and should mean you need to water your pots less frequently.
In colder months, you may not need to water your containers at all, but it’s still worth checking the soil regularly.
How to keep container plants flowering for longer
Having invested time and money in your plants for outdoor pots, it makes sense to try and get the best display out of them for as long as possible. Deadheading is a simple way to do just that.
Deadheading involves removing any flowers that are drooping, dead, or forming seed heads. Doing this stops the plant setting seed, and makes it produce more flowers instead.
To deadhead your plants, you simply pinch or snip off the old flower heads. You can use your fingers, but a pair of *snips will make the job a lot quicker.
Try to deadhead your plants regularly for the best results.
The best tools for growing plants in containers
Container gardening doesn’t require much in the way of garden tools and equipment. Having said that, there are a few items that will make life easier.
As well as containers, it’s a good idea to buy a *hand trowel. You can use this for the majority of your planting and re-potting jobs, and it’s also handy for weeding.
I’d also recommend a decent pair of *gardening gloves to protect your hands. Look for a pair that you can move properly in while wearing them – it sounds obvious, but not every pair will be a good fit.
I think a *watering can is also an essential piece of kit. Choose one with a ‘rose’ head attachment, this will help to avoid washing away the top layer of compost in your pots with a big gush of water. I actually like to use my daughter’s *mini watering can for my smaller containers, because it makes it even easier to control the flow.
Finally, a pair of *secateurs will come in handy for pruning and deadheading.
This is really all the kit you need to grow plants in containers. You are of course more than welcome to get carried away with all manner of extra gadgets if you’d like to!
A checklist for low maintenance outdoor potted plants
Here’s a quick checklist to help you grow beautiful outdoor plants in pots:
Right plant, right place: choose plants that suit the conditions in your garden (sunny spot, partial shade, direct sunlight, indirect light, low light, full sun exposure, shady spot, dry conditions etc.)
Annual plants grow, flower and die in one growing season; perennial plants grow year after year.
Use our list of great container plants to select your favourite plants; they all require little maintenance. Popular flowering plants for pots, herbaceous perennials, evergreen plants, drought-tolerant plants, dwarf varieties, colourful flowers, taller plants and foliage plants are all included.
Make sure your container has drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
When choosing pot size, think about the number of young plants in it, and how big they will eventually grow. A large plant needs a large pot; small plants will be happy in small pots.
Use good quality peat-free compost for outdoor container plants. Aim for well-draining soil.
Check how dry the soil is regularly, and water if necessary. Aim for regular watering and moist soil.
Feed your container plants regularly with a general purpose plant food. This can be concentrated liquid, water-soluble fertiliser, or ready-to-pour.
Deadhead your plants to encourage more beautiful flowers.
Good choice gardening tools for container growing: hand trowel, gardening gloves, watering can and secateurs.
More gardening inspiration
If you’d like to explore some other gardening projects and ideas, take a look at these posts.
I hope this guide to the best low-maintenance plants for outdoor pots has given you lots of container gardening ideas and inspiration, and helps you to create a beautiful container display. What container plants are top of your wish list?
If you’ve enjoyed this post and found it useful, here are some ways you can say thanks and support Growing Family:
Thank you to Wave Petunias for partnering with me on this post.
I’m often asked a question that is perplexing to me: “Do you grow annuals or perennials?”
I don’t fault the people asking the question as I think there are some people who grow one or the other, and perhaps that was more typical in the past. But the best parts of my garden rely on the combination of annuals and perennials, not to mention, shrubs, trees, bulbs and even vegetables.
Annuals, with their season-long color and seemingly endless array of colors, are perfect for tucking around the garden to fill in a gap until another plant fills in or just generally brighten things up. And perhaps the best all-purpose annual is the petunia.
This year I have Easy Wave Petunias in containers as well as in the ground where they bring a much needed splash of color as other plants (ahem, dahlias) take their time getting around to blooming. Easy Wave Petunias bulk up quickly (in fact I mostly bought 2-inch plants sold in six-packs) and have a nice mounded habit that works well in containers but also fills those pesky holes in the landscape.
Easy Wave Petunias come in oodles of colors and I was feeling a strong monochromatic vibe this year. For one container I combined Lavender Sky Blue and Blue (which reads purple to me) with purple sage for a dark, textural vibe.
I used those same colors in a nearby bed right off the patio, bringing color to an area with dahlias and alliums, including the seedheads of Allium christophii.
In the circle garden, where I like to mass plant in segments, I mixed together all the different pink Easy Wave Petunia colors I could find, from Rose Fusion to Plum Vein. A few surprises snuck in there, including a couple of reds and one white, but the overall look is pretty interesting, especially since different colors have slightly different sized flowers.
A mass planting of a variety of pink tones is brightening up a corner of the circle garden and the red stems of the nearby rhubarb help complete the look.Easy Wave Rose Fusion has beautiful dark pink veining that looks perfect with a setting sun to highlight its best attributes.
All of these are really just getting going. Easy Wave Petunias get about 6 to 12 inches high and can grow to more than 30 inches wide, so these will keep bulking up all summer.
Here’s what that all-blue container looked like shortly after planting. If you look at that photos above you can see how much it has filled in already.
GROWING TIPS
Like all heavy-blooming annuals, Easy Wave petunias appreciate regular fertilizing. I fertilize my containers with a synthetic water-soluble fertilizer every week to 10 days starting in July. I like to keep things organic for my in-ground beds so I usually use a seaweed or fish fertilizer every couple weeks on those plants.
Petunias are also one of those plants that appreciates the occasional trim, so as soon as mine start getting a little leggy, I will cut them back by half (or even more sometimes).
Budworm can be an issue on petunias. I’ve only dealt with them once in my life, so I don’t do anything more than keep an eye on them when I’m watering, like I do with all my plants. An organic spray with BT can be used to control budworm.
Petunias will do best in full sun, but you can push them into part sun without a problem.
Petunias are a classic annual, perhaps the classic annual that have been popping up in and around my garden for years.
Last year I used Easy Wave Lavender Sky Blue in the window box where it put up with a lot of pushy neighbors and provided that gorgeous color all season.
Easy Wave Petunias seem to nail that happy in between place of filling in well and holding up to other perennials in mixed containers and the ground without outcompeting its neighbors. It’s pretty much a perfect partner.
