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Tag: anatomy of a character

  • How ‘Expats’ Artisans Weaved Sarayu Blue’s Tightly Wound Hilary: ‘She’s Just Trying To Keep It Together’ 

    How ‘Expats’ Artisans Weaved Sarayu Blue’s Tightly Wound Hilary: ‘She’s Just Trying To Keep It Together’ 

    In Lulu Wang’s “Expats,” Sarayu Blue’s Hilary is seemingly perfect, put together and polished.

    On the surface, the American expat Hilary presents herself as a control freak. From her surroundings to her makeup and neutral wardrobe, it’s all pristine. That facade slowly unravels as her layers are peeled back in the Prime Video six-part limited series. Behind closed doors, her marriage is falling apart, and her husband is cheating on her.

    Costume designer Malgosia Turzanska used “aggressive neutrals” when it came to building Hilary’s wardrobe. Her goal was to use costumes as camouflage and protective armor for the character. “She is an incredibly strong, powerful woman. But she’s also an incredibly hurt woman, and that goes back to her childhood,” she says.

    An asymmetrical David Koma jumpsuit, for example, is an outfit Turzanska wove into Hilary’s wardrobe for a dinner party scene that was specifically designed to reflect her inner pain. “It looks like a sling, and it looks like she’s bandaged,” says Turzanska. “She’s pushing through because she doesn’t want to be at that dinner, and she doesn’t want to see those people. She has other things on her mind.”

    Hilary’s (Sarayu Blue) dress is a metaphoric band-aid.
    Jupiter Wong/Prime Video

    Later that night, Hilary changes into an orangey-red dress to meet her husband David (Jack Huston) at an Irish pub. At this point, David is living in a hotel, and she’s received a text not meant for her, but for his girlfriend.

    Hilary’s (Sarayu Blue) dress is a cry for help.
    Jupiter Wong/Prime Video

    That outfit and moment is a cry for help. It’s also a moment where Hilary starts to lose control. “It’s a metaphor for this open wound,” says Turzanska. “It was this idea of showing that she’s hurting and willing to work on their marriage, hoping that he is going to agree and keep working on their relationship, but it doesn’t go so well.”

    Wang and cinematographer Anna Franquesa-Solano spent a great deal of time discussing how Hilary would be photographed. “Anna and I talked a lot about the framing being presentational and you can feel that composure and that control is a facade,” the show’s creator says.

    Franquesa-Solano says Hilary’s framing is “composed and balanced.” She notes that Hilary, Margaret (Nicole Kidman) and Mercy (Ji-young Yoo) “are trying to control their surroundings because they feel like they are not in control. It’s an attempt to not let go because, if not, they’ll fall apart.”

    Franquesa-Solano continues, “Hilary is constantly doing that by trying to always be perfect and keep things in place. So her color palette is perfect. Her makeup and her wardrobe match the tone of the walls.”

    Wang says Hilary is the most relatable female on the show, since so much of who Hilary is stems from how community and society judges a person. “She’s trapped by that,” says Wang. “These are values that have been handed down by her family and women in general, and that’s why we’re so hard on ourselves. She’s just trying to keep it together.”

    Hilary’s attention to detail in how she approaches life starts to reveal itself slowly after she learns of David’s infidelity and her mother pays an unexpected visit. Audiences see this well-composed woman almost revert to a child, as she frantically prepares for this arrival.

    When she and her mom get stuck in an elevator with a neighbor, Hilary shares a story about how she used makeup on her mom to cover up bruises.

    Makeup helps Hilary cover up past scars.
    Jupiter Wong/Prime Video

    “You’re watching a woman who had to grow up really young, and it’s so painful and real,” says Blue. “You watch this character who’s perfectly put together, curated and tailored, and you watch her whole world fall apart. It’s not just the marriage, the friendship; it’s not just the reckoning with her mother — it’s all of it.”

    Toward the end, the women at the center of the show are eventually provided with some closure on their journeys as they attempt to live their lives and move on.

    Hilary returns home to visit her dying father, a visit that brings ghosts from her past. Also at her father’s bedside are his children from another marriage. When Hilary is finally alone with him, she takes the opportunity to tell him what she thinks about him and his abusive past. It’s one of the few moments where Blue says that Hilary gets to be human.

    “She says, ‘Fuck you, I’m done. I’ve got nothing left.’ What does she have left to lose? And it ends up being the best thing for her,” Blue says of the significant turning point. “She really has learned that it’s all about putting on a front, putting on a face, and you really watch a woman go, ‘I don’t want to keep it together anymore. I’m tired.’”

    By the time she returns to Hong Kong, despite their separation, David comes to meet her at the airport, and Hilary breaks down. A tender moment happens in the car as the two discuss Mercy’s pregnancy and Hilary talks about never wanting to have children. Blue says it’s a very real moment between the couple, who have a 20-year history: “I love when she’s like, ‘I’m so tired of being angry.’ She doesn’t want to be angry at David because even that is going to drain her.”

    The last shot is a single take of Hilary flowing through a crowd of people after buying a rug. “There’s a little bit of letting go when she buys that carpet. It’s a metaphor that she has to keep moving. She’s finding her freedom,” says Franquesa-Solano.

    By the end, Hilary finds freedom.
    Jupiter Wong/Prime Video

    Turzanska reflected on dressing Hilary in a shade of orange not too far from mocha and beige for that scene. “She’s out of her regular clothing and is delightfully happy. It is the brightest color she wears, and she embraces it and lets herself feel the color,” says the costume designer.

    “That’s the moment you see Hilary embodied,” adds Blue. “It’s Hilary saying, ‘I’m free. I get to live the life I want to live. I don’t have to hold on to all of this anymore.’ And it’s such a simple moment, and it’s so joy-filled. And then she’s in color.”

    Her armor has gone, and the facade is dropped once and for all.

    Jazztangcay

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  • Taraji P. Henson Says ‘The Color Purple’ Artisans Helped Her Ooze Empowerment as Shug Avery: ‘The Sexiest I’ve Ever Felt in Any Role’

    Taraji P. Henson Says ‘The Color Purple’ Artisans Helped Her Ooze Empowerment as Shug Avery: ‘The Sexiest I’ve Ever Felt in Any Role’

    Director Blitz Bazawule had a clear vision of what he wanted Shug Avery (Taraji P. Henson) to represent in “The Color Purple.” She was a bold, sexy, beautiful and extraordinary woman, but she was also loving and nurturing to Celie (Fantasia Barrino) and Sophia (Danielle Brooks). “Those were her sisters and there was a bond there,” Tym Wallace, the film’s makeup and hair department artist explains.

    In bringing his version of Alice Walker’s classic novel to the big screen, Bazawule put together a series of storyboard sketches he had laid out — a grand musical production with vivid color, majestic cinematography and show-stopping musical numbers. It wouldn’t just help him pitch the idea to producers Steven Spielberg and Oprah Winfrey that he was the right man to take on this giant task, it would help his artisans in bringing Shug to life and have her embody sexiness and ooze empowerment.

    Bazawule began by creating the mythos of Shug.

    Colman Domingo’s Mister keeps a signed photo of her by his bedside table. Bazawule points out, “It really begins with lore. I love when she’s whispered about: Who is she? What is she? So, when we finally see her in that photograph, I wanted to make sure she was meeting that myth and legend with this elegance and the fan.”


    Bazawule explains as cinematographer Dan Laustsen pushes into that photograph, “It’s the first time we see opulence. The film is rooted in the rural environment before that push. Environmentally, it demonstrates there’s a world on the other side of the film In the hopes that we’ll get there one day, and the only person who can take audiences there is Shug.”

    Wallace worked on Henson’s hair journey.

    While the rest of the characters had a similar look visually, he wanted audiences to see that Shug was not an average person and there was something special about her. Says Wallace, “When Shug is first introduced, it’s the early 1920s. She had a textured, deep side part finger wave tousled bob. That was her signature look throughout.”

    Costume designer Francine Jamison-Tanchuck used gloves and jewelry to show Shug’s empowerment. This woman came from that town and broke away from it. Those accessories strengthened her personality. As with the other artisans, Jamison-Tanchuck knew the juke joint moment needed to be bigger than life. “Nothing says that more than red.” The outfit nodded to Aggie Guerard Rodgers’s 1985 designs from the original film, but Jamison-Tanchuck also looked at what performers were wearing in 1918 and the early 1920s. She added beads rather than fringe to add weight to the dress.

    Later when Shug and Celie are walking in the field talking about the color purple, Jamison-Tanchuck says, “I wanted her to have this beautiful Sherbert orange chiffon dress. We wanted to have a style for Taraji that was more fitting into her personality without dismissing the periods.” She adds, “Research showed that performers in that era had skintight outfits, so it wasn’t unheard of. I wanted that for Shug because she was all about being sexy and showing her womanness and strength.”

    Adds Henson, “That’s the sexiest I’ve ever felt in any role that I’ve ever played. I felt sexy and regal because that’s who Shug was.”

    Jazztangcay

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