Good content starts at the source. If you want to sound your best for coworkers, fans, or teammates, the mic you have built into your headphones, laptop, tablet, or smartphone likely won’t do the job. I’ve spent close to a decade with various USB microphones for podcasting, gaming, and even music recording, and I have to say up front: We’re living in a golden age of easy-to-use options. These days it’s not hard to find a great microphone with simple software for very little money. So we’ve rounded them up! These are the best USB microphones around.
Updated May 2024: We’ve added new mics from AKG, Audio-Technica, and Steelseries.
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I’m picky about my desk setup. I love working from home with my laptop stand, monitor, mechanical keyboard, and mouse, and I hate using just a laptop most of the time. But sometimes I want to work from the library or my sister’s kitchen counter without losing all the convenience of my peripherals. Enter Logitech’s Casa Pop-Up Desk.
The Pop-Up Desk weighs about 2.7 pounds and, when closed, looks like a small textbook. That means it fits in most backpacks and tote bags so you can take it anywhere. You open it to find a wireless keyboard and trackpad in their designated spots. Just pop ’em out and then configure the case into a stand to keep your laptop at eye level, using magnets to connect the platform to the edge of the case.
There’s also a compartment to hold the USB-C charging cord (it doesn’t come with a power block) that charges both accessories. It’s not big enough for much else, but it could also hold your phone charger too, a pen, and maybe a thin stack of Post-it Notes.
Photograph: Medea Giordano
Desk Mate
Logitech makes reliable keyboards, and we recommend many of them. I wish the Casa Pop-Up Desk included a cute mechanical keyboard, like Logitech’s Pop Keyboard, instead of a quieter membrane keyboard. I like clicky-clacky keys, but that would likely make the whole thing bigger, bulkier, and more expensive.
Still, the Casa Keys keyboard included here works well, with a slight incline for comfortable typing. It’s a compact keyboard, so it doesn’t have the numpad or function row. I prefer a full-size keyboard, but for use when I’m away from my desk it’s perfect. If you typically use your laptop keyboard anyway, you won’t be disappointed with it.
There’s an elegance to efficiency. Doing as much as possible with as few resources as you can requires coming up with clever solutions that you might not have otherwise needed. That’s part of what makes Logitech’s G Pro X 60 keyboard so impressive. It’s a 60 percent variant of our top keyboard pick but manages to keep nearly everything we like about its larger sibling.
A 60 percent keyboard is one of the smallest, most compact keyboard layouts you can find. In addition to lopping off the Numpad like most TKL boards (including the G Pro X) do, the Pro X 60 further compacts itself by removing the navigation keys like Page Up, Page Down, etc., the arrow keys, and the row of function keys along the top.
If you need any of these buttons, you can access most of them by holding Fn and pressing one of the keys on the regular keyboard. Small indicators on the front of the keys show you which buttons map to what function, which is pretty typical for most 60 percent keyboards. However, much of what we liked about the original G Pro X TKL were the extra features that Logitech added on top of the basics. Surely, those would have to be cut to fit into such a low profile. Right? Not necessarily.
Smart Space Saving
One of my favorite keyboard features also happens to be one that most keyboards cut first when they need to save space: the volume wheel. The Pro X TKL had one in the top right corner, easily accessible with my right hand. At first, I was disappointed (if not surprised) to see that this feature was gone on the Pro X 60.
Photograph: Eric Ravenscraft
That was until I noticed a small dial on the left side of the Pro X 60. Only one other keyboard I’ve tested has put the volume roller on the left side, and I loved it for that. Logitech’s keyboard takes a more subtle approach than the previous NZXT model I used, embedding the volume roller into the side of the keyboard, where it’s easily accessible but out of the way.
Similarly, the Game Mode toggle is now a switch embedded in the right side of the keyboard, while on the Pro X TKL it’s a button on the top left. The Game Mode switch lets you easily disable keys like the Windows button or the context menu key that don’t have any real use in a game aside from interrupting your game right before you’re about to land a headshot. No, I’m not bitter.
Connection Convenience
I’m glad for the physical buttons, because one of my favorite aspects of Logitech hardware is how easily they swap between devices. The Pro X 60 supports the company’s Lightspeed connection—via a 2.4-Ghz USB dongle—which dramatically reduces latency when compared with protocols like Bluetooth.
Along the rear of the keyboard there are two buttons to switch between Bluetooth and Lightspeed connections. They’re easy to reach without being in the way. Personally, I like this location better than it being directly on the surface of the keyboard. I occasionally accidentally swap devices on my main keyboard, leading to interruptions, but this placement keeps the buttons convenient with less risk of mistakes.
The faster connection really matters only when you’re playing fast-paced games, but I play way too much Overwatch 2, so that low latency matters to me. However, I don’t care as much when I want to switch over to my laptop. So, for that, I can use the Bluetooth connection. With the dedicated buttons on the Pro X 60, it’s one tap to quickly switch to typing on a different device.
Everywhere I look, I see an ad for Logitech’s Aurora Collection of accessories. At least, it feels that way. Often it’s the distinctive, cloud-shaped palm rest, or the beautiful all-white headphones. They follow me across social media platforms. You got me, Logitech: I’m interested.
The Aurora Collection checks several boxes for me: It’s designed for gamers like myself, but with a softer aesthetic, featuring white form factors and colorful accessories, something that’s hard to find in a landscape of all-black everything. (Someone bring back the colorful monitors of the iMac age! I’m begging you!) It nicely toes the line of visually pleasing without being cheap or infantile, and isn’t so feminine in its design choices that it feels exclusive to anyone who identifies as a woman.
Something about the G715 wireless mechanical keyboard reminds me of my childhood keyboard. I think it’s the bulky form factor paired with the dark gray buttons on the top; it sends me right back to using my parents’ big gray keyboard while I played Freddi Fish.
On the build design alone, it feels like a classic, old-school keyboard. There’s some weight, but it’s not particularly noteworthy when compared with fun keyboards like the Logitech Pop (9/10, WIRED Recommends). It doesn’t come with circular keys, for example, and there’s no numpad.
The G705 mouse, too, looks similar to other gaming mice I’ve used, but the light strip that runs through the back half (where your palm sits) certainly makes it more fun on my desk. The collection as a whole is pretty classic in its design, yet the white backdrop and well-placed pastel lights give it an entirely new look.
The G735 headphones have the sleekest look of the Aurora line and are the least stereotypically gamer-y. They look fairly high-end, akin to Apple’s AirPods Max (8/10, WIRED Recommends), and have a thinner headband since they’re designed with smaller heads in mind. I have a large noggin and was worried about how they would fit; they were certainly snug, but not so much that I had a headache or couldn’t comfortably wear them for a few hours at a time.
Control Boxes
Courtesy of Logitech
All of the Aurora collection is controlled by the Logitech G HUB, a computer app that will connect to all of these devices and several other Logitech peripherals. The app not only gives you a huge variety of controls and options to customize your lights, but also lets you adjust key commands and macros on the keyboard, your mouse sensitivity, and way more.
Still balancing your laptop on a stack of old books? It’s time to upgrade. Having the right laptop stand can make life more comfortable, so you can stop craning your neck while you work. The best stands raise your laptop’s screen (or external monitor!) close to eye level, which is better for maintaining a healthy posture. Some can even fit into a backpack for easy travel or switch configurations from sitting to standing. These are our favorites.
Need more options for your home office? Read our guide to work-from-home gear.
Updated April 2024: Our favorite stand from ObVus Solutions has been discontinued. We’ve moved the Branch stand to the top spot. We’ve also added Logitech’s Casa Pop-Up Desk as a pick, as well as a few more additions to the honorable mentions.
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Peripherals Are Important
Snagging one of the laptop stands below is one of many ways you can improve your posture when sitting at a desk for long periods. You can also connect your laptop to a separate second computer monitor. You’ll be able to multitask more easily with two screens, and you won’t have to strain your neck as much.
Some of these laptop stands are best paired with a separate keyboard and mouse. These peripherals mean you can set your laptop farther away and at various heights, and you won’t need to stretch your arms in awkward ways to type. The right mouse can prevent muscle strain and wrist problems, so check out the picks in our Best Keyboards and Best Gaming Mouse guides. (You don’t need to be a gamer to use a gaming mouse!)
How to Pick
We recommend several different types of laptop stands. To figure out which one is for you, first you’ll have to determine how you want to use it, then you can decide on price and aesthetics.
Do you need something portable? There are stands that collapse down and fold to easily fit in a bag. Some even double as cases, like Moft’s Carry Sleeve.
Do you want to raise, lower, or angle your computer? Look for an adjustable stand like our top pick from Branch, with hinged legs and top. Just needone height? Go with something like the Grovemade Walnut Laptop Stand.
Is this for a laptop or your monitor too? For the latter, you’ll need something bigger with a fixed height, like the Superjare Dual Monitor Stand Riser.
Will you use a separate keyboard and mouse? If not, you need a stand that’s strong and stable like Branch’s. Some can wobble a bit while typing on them.
Want to standsometimes too? Some of the adjustable picks may allow for standing, depending on your height, but there are also sit-stand converters so you don’t need a whole new desk. Our favorite is no longer available, so we’re looking for a new top pick now.
If you prefer a standard dongle-style hub or just something that doesn’t have an integrated stand, here are a few other options I’ve tested and like. Read our Best USB Hubs and Docks guide for more recommendations.
Twelve South StayGo Mini USB-C Hub for $60: This tiny USB-C hub might be all you need, and it’s seriously compact. It’s a little taller but narrower than a Zippo lighter, and you get a 4K HDMI port, a USB-A, an 85-watt USB-C port with pass-through charging, and a headphone jack. I had trouble fitting it on an iPad protected by a case, but Twelve South includes a female USB-C to male USB-C cable that solves this issue.
Hyper HyperDrive 6-in-1 Dongle for $100: It has a 60-watt USB-C port, USB-A, MicroSD slot, SD card slot, 3.5-mm audio, and 4K 60-Hz HDMI. You can stick it into your iPad’s USB-C port and have it sit flush and firm with the edge or swap to a flappy, short cable. You need the cable if you have a case on your iPad, and Hyper provides the screws and screwdriver to swap the part out (it took me two minutes). Just remember to unplug it when you’re not using it, as it will slowly drain your tablet’s battery.
Satechi USB-C Hybrid With SSD Enclosure for $90: Satechi’s four-port hub is a little too large, considering the number of ports you get, but there’s a good reason for that. Pop off the aluminum cover and you’ll find a slot for an M.2 SATA solid-state storage drive (SSD) slot. That means access to an external SSD, along with two USB-A jacks, one 100-watt USB-C pass-through charging port, and a 4K HDMI at the same time. I did not have an M.2 SATA drive to test, but this 1-terabyte card should work. Just know that Satechi’s hub does not support NVMe M.2 cards.
Anker USB-C to Ethernet Adapter for $23: Most people won’t need an Ethernet port on an iPad, but maybe you’re taking a stab at some cloud gaming on your tablet. If so, you’ll need the fastest speeds you can get so your games appear in the highest quality possible. This simple, aluminum USB-C to Ethernet dongle delivered around 700 Mbps download speeds on the iPad Pro in my home, which is what my desktop PC usually hits.
ESR Wireless Car Charger for $22: It is very affordable, has strong magnets that work well with MagSafe iPhones, and charges at up to 15 watts, but I’m not keen on the superfluous logo and lights, and I have my doubts about the durability of this charger. It plugs into the ball joint of the vent or dash mount provided, but I had trouble with the vent attachment.
Nomad USB-C Car Charger for $60: It’s expensive and bulky, but this dual-port Power Delivery charger slots into your car socket and can supply 70 watts from either USB-C port. If you use both, the top blue port gives you 50 watts and the bottom supplies 20 watts.
iOttie Aivo View Dash Cam for $150: With a sleek, compact design, the iOttie Aivo View looks the part and records video at up to 1,600p and 30 frames per second. There’s a Bluetooth remote button to trigger recordings, and it supports Alexa for voice commands, but I found the app flaky and very slow to download videos.
Vantrue Element 1 Dash Cam for $150: This dinky dashcam from Vantrue records crisp video at up to 1,440p and 30 frames per second with support for HDR. It also has a park mode and built-in Wi-Fi and GPS, but I could not get the app to connect, so I had to remove the microSD card to review the footage.
NextBase 222 Dash Cam for $60: This basic dashcam works reasonably well and has the same design as NextBase’s more expensive models with a color screen on the back. But it can only record at 1080p and 30 frames per second, and I found it hard to read license plates at night. It does support parking mode, but there’s no GPS, so videos lack information on coordinates and speed.
NextBase 522GW Dash Cam for $219: If your budget won’t stretch to the 622GW above, this is the next model down, and it boasts many of the same features, including parking mode, Alexa, and the optional emergency SOS subscription. Video tops out at 1,440p and 30 fps, there’s no what3words support, and nighttime performance is nowhere near as good, but this is probably your best option in this price bracket.
iOttie Velox MagSafe Wireless Charging Car Mount for $42: Our previous pick for the best MagSafe vent mount isn’t just classy but also rock solid. It’s similar to the Belkin listed above but maxes out at 7.5 watts. If you don’t mind the slower charging speed, you can save money by choosing this mount.
Joyroom MagSafe Vent Mount Charger for $27: Here’s another wireless charging MagSafe vent mount for iPhones. It holds MagSafe iPhones and cases securely, and emits a soft blue light to make it easy to find in the dark (it turns off when you mount your iPhone). It is a solid option to have your iPhone in landscape orientation, but is not suitable for heavier Max models. Joyroom claims it charges at 15 watts, but it only charged my iPhone 14 Pro at 7.5 watts.
Mophie Dual USB-C Car Charger for $35: This is a solid dual USB-C port charger that only misses out on a spot above because it maxes out at 40 watts. It supports Power Delivery, has a durable aluminum finish, and there’s a handy grippy texture that makes it easy to remove.
With a smart plug, you get the convenience of a smart home without expensive equipment or potentially prying eyes. They help you automate your home and make certain tasks like turning off the lights a little easier. (We like smart bulbs for this reason too.) Appliances like TVs and lamps can go from mindless to smart as soon as you install an app. We’ve tested dozens of smart plugs over the years, and these are our favorites (along with models we dislike).
Updated April 2024: The TP-Link Tapo Smart Plug Mini (TP15) has been added as our new top pick. We’ve also added testing notes on a handful of other models, removed some discontinued picks, and updated pricing throughout. Tester Medea Giordano also contributed to this guide.
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Picking a gaming mouse is a very personal endeavor. Everyone’s hands are different, everyone’s preferences and needs are different, and we all play different games. That’s why we’re lucky to live in the golden age of gaming mice, with major manufacturers pouring engineering muscle into one-upping one another. The result is a market loaded with high-quality yet relatively inexpensive mice.
We’ve tested quite a few, and while we can’t tell you precisely which mouse is right for you—you may prefer wired or wireless, more or fewer buttons—we have a variety of recommendations. These are the best gaming mice for every kind of gamer we can think of, plus a couple of mousepads for good measure.
Updated April 2024: We added the Razer Viper V2 Pro, Corsair Scimitar Elite Wireless, and Corsair M75 Wireless, and removed the Razer Viper Ultimate and Razer Lancehead.
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Looking for a Great Mouse? Look at Your Palms
One aspect to consider when shopping for a mouse is its size. I used to use Logitech’s G305 until I realized it’s way too small for my palm size—I was forcing myself to grip it a certain way and was straining my wrist in the process. Not good. This also depends on how you hold your mouse. Are you using your whole palm? Just your fingertips? Or are you using it claw-style, with your fingertips and bottom of your palm touching the mouse?
I recommend measuring the distance from the tip of your middle finger to the bottom of your palm, then finding a mouse that’s roughly the same length. You can do this with your hand’s width too to make sure the mouse you’re buying isn’t too wide or too narrow. Rocket Jump Ninja has a nifty tool that lets you input your measurements and spits out mouse recommendations based on your hand size. Razer has a handy guide too, but it only recommends Razer-made mice. By measuring your hand, you can enjoy a much more comfortable gaming experience. That’s how I found out that Logitech’s G604 is the best size for me—my wrist says thank you. —Julian Chokkattu
Here’s the low-down on the MagSafe standard and MagSafe power banks.
What is MagSafe?
MagSafe is the name of Apple’s accessory system that’s integrated into the iPhone 12, iPhone 13, iPhone 14, and iPhone 15 range. A ring of magnets on the back of the phone (and in MagSafe-enabled cases) lets you attach various magnetic accessories, like a battery pack that recharges the iPhone wirelessly, so you don’t need to hold it or carry a cable.
Does MagSafe reduce battery life?
There isn’t much evidence that MagSafe charging negatively impacts battery health, but it is less efficient than wired charging and can sometimes generate heat, which may degrade your battery faster. But other factors are more important if you want to preserve battery health (such as never fully draining your battery).
What rate can MagSafe power banks charge at?
Most MagSafe power banks we have tested wirelessly charge at a rate of up to 7.5 watts, but Anker’s Qi2 power bank can charge at up to 15 watts.
Is USB-C better than MagSafe?
Wired charging is faster and more efficient than wireless charging, so if you plug your phone in via cable to any of the power banks above, you can expect to get more power more quickly than you will using MagSafe or Qi2. MagSafe is simply more convenient.
What are the downsides of MagSafe?
Only some of Apple’s iPhones (12, 13, 14, and 15 series) support MagSafe, and it’s not officially compatible with Android phones. MagSafe is also less efficient than wired charging. Lost energy during wireless charging generates heat, which can have a negative impact on battery health.
Why do MagSafe power banks get hot?
MagSafe is not as efficient as wired charging, and power lost during wireless charging generates heat. MagSafe’s magnets reduce this problem, compared to Qi wireless charging, by ensuring the charging coils are aligned.
The Cherry MX switch is, arguably, one of the most important mechanical keyboard switches of all time. Some might argue it’s one of the best mechanical switches ever. No other switch has quite the same legacy. It’s been around for decades and is one of the few switches that run the whole gamut of keyboards. You can find it in everything from point-of-sale systems, office cubicles, and police cars to gaming setups and even premium, limited-run custom keyboards.
Until recently, nearly every mechanical gaming keyboard shipped with MX Reds, Browns, or Blues. For a long time, Cherry’s switches were the best option—mechanical switch or otherwise—for building a keyboard, and they had a reputation for their outstanding typing feel and longevity when compared to their rubber dome and scissor-switch contemporaries.
I have a love for the original Cherry MX switches. They still have a personality and charm no other switch has been able to replicate. I type on them regularly, almost every day, and always find them a treat to use, despite their shortcomings. So it came as a surprise when Cherry announced a successor with the MX2A. How could one of the most beloved and long-lasting mechanical switches suddenly change so drastically? Could these changes make the MX better?
Photograph: Henri Robbins
Cherry’s Legacy
The Cherry MX Black is the mechanical switch. It’s a fairly heavy linear switch made entirely of Cherry’s proprietary blend of plastics and has been in production since 1983 with only minimal changes until now. Cherry rates its MX switches for 100 million keypresses, and it’s not unheard of for MX Blacks to be in operation even after two decades of near-constant use. They eventually became a signifier of quality: If you saw a keyboard with MX switches, you could be pretty sure that it would be both reliable and enjoyable to type on.
As the custom keyboard scene started to form in the early 2000s, people realized something interesting—the longer you used MX switches, the smoother they were to type on. This was true for all of them but most noticeably for MX Blacks. They were the most common in high-use office and point-of-sale systems and had a heavier spring that required more force to be pushed down, resulting in the plastics seeing large amounts of wear.
These “vintage” MX Blacks—which had to be desoldered from older keyboards—became incredibly sought out by enthusiasts for their smoothness, and their scarcity increased demand even further. At the time, Vintage MX Blacks were the best switches possible for a custom-built keyboard kit.
It’s worth noting that these worn-in switches are fairly scratchy by today’s standards. Modern switches, made from higher-end materials and lubed from the factory, are leagues ahead of MX switches in smoothness. However, many keyboard hobbyists today see the MX Black as having a “good” scratch compared to the scratchiness of other switches. It’s consistent, subtle, and rather charming as long as you don’t expect perfection. There are no sudden bumps or catches, but instead a consistent friction that feels more “real” and satisfying than something engineered for perfect smoothness.
Audio quality: It seems like it would go without saying, but we’re saying it anyway: You can’t always tell from a spec sheet how a headset will sound. A well-made stereo headset can sound better than a poorly made 7.1 Dolby Atmos surround sound set. Check reviews to get a sense of how a headset performs in real life.
Surround sound options: Modern headsets have gotten very good at recreating or simulating surround sound in headsets with systems like Dolby Atmos for Headphones or DTS:X. These systems are particularly impactful in games where you want to be able to hear exactly where an enemy is firing at you from. Be sure you can turn the surround sound on or off.
Comfort: This is another subjective category, but if you’re going to wear a headset for hours while you’re gaming, it’s important that it doesn’t hurt. A heavy headset pressing against your temples can give you a headache after a while. Look for headsets that have adjustable, ergonomic designs, plenty of cushioning, and are generally lightweight.
An adjustable boom microphone: If you plan to use your headset for online gaming, a good microphone is important. Many headsets come with boom mics that can be positioned in front of your mouth. Some are removable, while others can simply be rotated or bent away from your mouth when they’re not in use. Make sure you get the kind that’s right for your needs.
Visible mic muting and indicator LEDs: It’s important to know when you’re broadcasting audio so you don’t accidentally share your private conversations with your teammates. Some mics mute automatically when you flip them upward, while others use a dedicated mute button. We particularly like headsets that include red LEDs that indicate when you’re muted, which can be helpful.
Mic monitoring so you can hear your voice: If you want to keep tabs on how you sound to your teammates, and not sound like you’re yelling while playing, mic monitoring is a feature that lets you hear your own audio through your headphones. Optimally, you can adjust its volume. When you listen to a podcast or radio talk show, chances are those folks are using some form of mic monitoring so they can hear themselves, as well as others.
Equalizer (EQ) and customization tools: Games, movies, and TV shows are mixed differently, and when you’re listening, you might want to emphasize different aspects of the audio signal. Custom EQ presets let you set different balances for watching a movie versus playing a game, or even have different balances on a per-game basis.
Keeping your iPhone topped up can be a challenge, but the clever magnetic MagSafe system means you don’t need to fumble with cables or worry about a wireless charging sweet spot. Apple’s MagSafe is an accessory system integrated into the iPhone 12, iPhone 13, iPhone 14, and iPhone 15 range. A ring of magnets on the back of the phone (and in MagSafe-enabled cases) allows you to attach MagSafe chargers that can recharge your iPhone wirelessly.
Snag a MagSafe charger for your nightstand, work desk, and car, and you can easily top up throughout the day. These are the best MagSafe chargers we’ve tested. (And yes, if you have an Android phone with a MagSafe case, some of these chargers may be compatible and do the job.)
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I’ve spent the last few weeks with the Keychron Q5 Pro and Q6 Pro mechanical keyboards, and I think they’re some of the best bang-for-your-buck full-size keyboards you can get today. The Q6 Pro is a traditional full-size keyboard layout with a NumPad and navigation keys, while the Q5 Pro is a slightly more compact 1800-style layout.
Both of them are gasket-mounted, with thick aluminum cases and a knob in the top right corner. You can buy either model with Keychron’s red linear switches, brown tactile switches, or banana tactile switches, and they include hot-swap sockets, RGB lighting, and Bluetooth 5.1 connectivity by default. If you don’t mind a cord, you can also connect them via USB-C. (Read my guide, How to Shop for a Mechanical Keyboard, if you want to learn more about some of these terms!)
Why a Full-Size Layout?
Anyone who wants a full-size keyboard layout already knows they want it. In my experience, it’s something you’re already acclimated to, not something you’re going to switch to on a whim. These things are huge and can have a dedicated key for everything, especially if you take advantage of the ability to reprogram keys.
The bare-bones version of the Q6 Pro allows you to add your preferred set of switches and keycaps.
Photograph: Keychron
Yes, the entire keyboard is completely reprogrammable. Keychron’s Q Pro line supports QMK/VIA, an open source third-party software that lets you reprogram every key. QMK is a system for keyboards that allows users to flash new firmware and keymaps, and VIA is a system that makes this reprogramming quick and seamless within a web browser. These keymaps persist across devices and have nearly limitless potential once you’ve learned the software.
Because of the utility of QMK and VIA, I found the number pads useful even though I hardly ever use them to input numbers. They can easily be reprogrammed and used as a dedicated macro pad, or for any other number of uses. (It’s worth noting that with both QMK and VIA, you have to plug in the keyboard to reprogram it.) The placement of the reset button underneath the spacebar on the top of the printed circuit board (PCB) makes reprogramming easy, since you don’t have to take the entire keyboard apart (unlike quite a few other keyboards that place the button in a hard-to-reach spot).
Even if you don’t plan to reprogram any keys, the number pad is great for quickly typing long strings of numbers or if you want to utilize Alt Codes so that you don’t have to constantly Google “Em dash” and copy and paste the symbol on Windows. (Hot tip: The Alt code for an em dash is Alt + 0151.)
The Typing Feel
Both the Q5 Pro and Q6 Pro use a gasket mount, meaning the main keyboard assembly (plate, switches, PCB) is suspended inside the case using two compressed layers of foam instead of being directly attached to the case. This creates a bouncier typing feel and isolates the internal assembly to create a softer, more crisp typing sound.
Keychron’s gasket-mount system is fairly bouncy, meaning the key presses feel soft and relaxed. This meshes with the switches provided, which have fairly light springs, to create an overall typing experience that’s crisp and bouncy without feeling cheap or flimsy.
The two boards I received have the Red and Banana switches from Keychron’s K Pro switch line. The Reds are simple, effective linear switches that sound poppy and feel fairly smooth. The Banana switches are tactile with a medium-strength bump and a good amount of travel after the bump. I’d recommend either one since both are high-quality examples of their respective switch types that will be acceptable to a large number of users.
Not all phones support wireless charging, but most brands have models that do, so look up your phone model first. You’ll usually see “Qi wireless charging” (the default standard) or simply “wireless charging” if it does. Phones that support the latest Qi2 standard, bear the Qi2 logo and have a ring of magnets for easy alignment (just like Apple’s MagSafe).
Do wireless chargers work if you have a phone case?
Yes, most wireless chargers can charge through cases, unless it’s a particularly thick case. Check the product listing—there’s usually a case thickness limit in millimeters. Phones can get hot when charging wirelessly, so don’t worry if your phone is really warm when you pick it up. Most smartphones have limits to stop accepting a charge if they get too hot.
Yes, cords will charge your phone faster
Some manufacturers like Apple and OnePlus make wireless chargers that recharge their respective phones faster than others, but if you’re looking for speed, you’re better off sticking with a cord. Wireless charging is best for desks or nightstands when you’re not really using your phone or in a rush to recharge it.
What’s a fast wireless charging speed?
We said this at the beginning of our guide, but you’ll see “Compatible with iPhones and Android phones” under each slide, and that means the charger has a standard charging speed of 7.5 watts for iPhones or 10 watts for Android phones (including Samsung Galaxy phones). The latest MagSafe and Qi2 chargers can go up to 15 watts, and there are a handful of proprietary wireless chargers for specific phone models that can charge even faster. It’s worth noting that, even where phones support them, the maximum charging rates are only reached some of the time (the charging rate is automatically adjusted to preserve battery health).
Is wireless charging safe to use?
There’s no definitive evidence that it’s harmful. You may worry the phone’s battery might degrade faster with wireless charging, but manufacturers set safe limits for phone batteries, stipulating how much a battery can be charged and how far it can discharge. Regardless of the charging source you use, whether you plug into a wall adapter or use a wireless charging pad, these limits can’t be overridden. There’s no risk of overcharging your phone by leaving it on a wireless charger all night.
How do I keep my phone’s battery healthy?
However, try to keep your battery between 50 and 80 percent for optimum battery health. Keeping your phone fully charged or fully discharging the battery will degrade it slightly faster, and regularly swinging between full and empty will shorten its life. Battery technology has improved in recent years, and phone batteries are more reliable than ever. If you switch phones every two to three years or don’t mind paying a modest fee for a battery replacement on that timescale, it’s not worth worrying too much about how often or when you charge your phone.
