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Tag: 00s fashion

  • War of the Denim Brands Trying to Play Up the 2000s (a More Marked Time of White Supremacy BTW) Instead of “Great Jeans”

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    Ever since Sydney Sweeney and American Eagle got it so wrong with their jeans ad, it’s been a free-for-all of shade-throwing on the ad campaign front. It started with Beyoncé, who released the final installment in her series of Levi’s commercials about two weeks after the American Eagle campaign was unveiled. Though, thanks to the daily rounds of fresh invective, the AE campaign still felt much more recent (especially by modern standards, when anything more than a day old is “old”) when Beyoncé’s Levi’s commercial dropped. Almost as if she (and Levi’s) were purposefully trying to show them “how it’s done.” And yet, even Beyoncé, often deemed as “ironclad” or “bulletproof” on the instant success front as Taylor Swift, didn’t exactly alight the masses with her campaign. Which, perhaps worse than saying something “incendiary,” said nothing much at all. 

    Thus, when Gap emerged with its own “little response” (whether admitting that it was a response or not) to the whole jeans controversy in mid-August, they decided to say it best by saying it with Katseye (don’t worry if you hadn’t heard of them until now) bopping around amongst many other dancers to the tune of Kelis’ signature 2003 hit, “Milkshake.” Which apparently feels as “fresh” and “relevant” to the youths of today as it did to the millennials of yore (particularly after the song cameo’d in 2004’s Mean Girls). And, on a side note, it would seem Kelis takes less issue with the song being used to sell denim than she does with it being used to sell Beyoncé herself. Or, more specifically, her music. For who could forget Kelis’ none too favorable reaction to “Mrs. Carter” sampling “Milkshake” for track four of Renaissance, “Energy”? So unfavorable was the reaction, in fact, that Beyoncé “quietly” just removed the sample the same way she removed the phrase “Spazzin’ on that ass” from “Heated” (replacing it with a perhaps even more suggestive phrase: “Blastin’ on that ass”).

    But there’s nothing “quiet” about the reanimation of “Milkshake” in 2025, the year when the saturation of 00s pop culture has reached an ostensible new apex, even though few thought that could be possible after Euphoria makeup and the remake of Mean Girls in 2024. But no, 2025 is gunning hard for the 00s to come back (even in terms of Lindsay Lohan making her own umpteenth “return” with Freakier Friday, released the same year, incidentally, as “Milkshake”). 

    Ironically enough, however, the 00s were a prime time for white supremacy. Reigning truly “supreme” in that no one was talking about the surfeit of whiteness in media at the time. Or the fact that someone like Jennifer Lopez or Lucy Liu was about as “exotic” as Hollywood was willing to get in film, music or any other entertainment medium. That lack of representation, it was all just accepted. Taken at face value. And this is part of why Sweeney and American Eagle (itself a brand very much associated with the 00s, along with Abercrombie & Fitch) might be the most “authentically” 00s of all in that they unleashed an ad campaign that assumes the presence of a customer mindset that truly is still “locked in” with that era.

    The era when the blonde girl with the “‘hot’ body” (to borrow a phrase from Janis Ian’s [Lizzy Caplan] chalkboard plan on how to take down Regina George) was never to be questioned, made fun of and certainly not accused of promoting white supremacy with a dubious tag line (“Sydney Sweeney has great jeans”) that was paired with an even more suggestive commercial “monologue” (“Genes are passed down to offspring, often determining traits like hair color, personality and even eye color… My jeans are blue”).

    Thus, the Katseye x Gap campaign stood out even more by not only calling upon 00s semiotics and sounds, but also adhering to what the tenets of capitalism do best by repackaging what’s old, making it “new” again and selling it back to the masses. And since Gap commercials at their most successful are always known for the “all-white backdrop,” this latest one hit all the right notes of nostalgia. Considering that’s about the only thing everyone can afford to get high on now, it’s being ramped up all the more with each passing year.

    Hence, Addison Rae, a Gen Zer who clearly identifies as a millennial, also getting in on the 00s nostalgia action with her own ad campaign for Lucky Brand Jeans—an ultra 00s-associated brand. Accordingly, Women’s Wear Daily described the jeans she’s promoting as “a reimagined version of a look from Lucky Brand’s early 2000s archive.” What’s more, Addison rolled her sleeves (or is it cuffs in this case?) even further up by actually getting involved in the design process by serving as creative director for this specific line of ultra low-rise flare jeans. That fit, of course, being the pinnacle of 00s-era fashion, with Paris Hilton and Britney Spears exemplifying the trend in the early aughts. 

    As for Addison’s “commercial” (directed by Mitch Ryan), it didn’t go quite as viral as Gap’s (directed by Bethany Vargas, whose most recent credits include the likes of Lady Gaga’s “Abracadabra” video). Though there is still something like “choreo” in the mix after it opens with Addison walking out onto a stage area in her Lucky Brand Jeans as her own song, “High Fashion,” plays (obviously not as instantly recognizable as “Milkshake”). Right from the beginning, the tag line, “Wear Lucky, feel lucky” immediately pops up. And it isn’t lost on any millennial girl that one of Britney’s biggest hits in the early 00s was “Lucky.” Or that she herself was a wearer of Lucky Brand (along with all the other fashion “staples” of the day: Tommy Hilfiger, Abercrombie, Ed Hardy, Juicy Couture, etc.).

    The visual comparison to Britney that “AR” continues to draw was not lost on anyone who has even a cursory knowledge of the 00s. And yet, despite Spears being everyone’s favorite reference, in the denim wars that have taken the U.S. by storm since July, it seems that Katseye is the clear winner of this round. Even if Addison’s campaign has a level of finesse, class and vague freshness beyond the mere regurgitation of a milkshake that boasts, “I know you want it/The thing that makes me/What the guys go crazy for/They lose their minds.”

    And what guys and girls alike are all losing their minds for this year is 00s stylings, whether in the world of fashion or otherwise. Though someone might want to remind them all that this particular decade was nothing if not pro-white supremacy. But try telling that to a generation that’s somehow managed to romanticize George W. Bush a.k.a. make “Bushcore” happen.

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    Genna Rivieccio

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  • The “About Fucking Time!” Tank Top Is Becoming The New “Jesus Is My Homeboy”/“Mary Is My Homegirl” Shirt

    The “About Fucking Time!” Tank Top Is Becoming The New “Jesus Is My Homeboy”/“Mary Is My Homegirl” Shirt

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    As with most impactful trends, it began with Madonna. Or at least got kickstarted by her (see also: vogueing). More to the point, the pop culture tastemaker spotlighted the “About Fucking Time!” shirt by sporting it at the August 24th birthday party she threw for her twins, Stella and Estere. Soon after, Charli XCX posted a “chest shot” photo of two unidentified people (though it looks like her and Sweat Tour co-star Troye Sivan) wearing the same tank tops with the increasingly familiar phrase. Though, in truth, the t-shirt goes back much further than its current “it” moment, created by one of Madonna’s long-standing besties, Stella McCartney. The latter, in fact, appropriately donned a “prototype” at the 1999 Rock and Roll Hall of Fame ceremony when her dad (you know, Paul) was finally inducted.

    Not so coincidentally, McCartney was also present at the aforementioned “high-brow, who’s who” of a twelfth birthday party—pictured next to Madonna as the two held a cluster of balloons in each hand. Only Madonna wasn’t wearing the tank top in this image, but rather, saved it for a photo of herself sandwiched in between Stella and Estere. Thus, the shirt often tends to be worn during instances when something has been “long overdue” (like, apparently, Estere and Stella entering their final preteen year). Which also appeared to be the case with Paris Hilton wearing one for her September ’24 Nylon feature, “From Paris With Love.” Because, after all, she thinks it’s “about fucking time” that she released a sophomore album (though there aren’t that many other people who feel quite the same). Her newly unleashed Infinite Icon record being the topic that the majority of the article focuses on.

    And, talking of that particular “2000s icon,” it seems that “About Fucking Time!” is fast becoming the “20s” version of one the 00s’ biggest t-shirt trends: “Jesus Is My Homeboy.” Later, “Mary Is My Homegirl” would also take celebrity closets by storm, reaching a zenith in 2004, when, yes, Madonna was spotted in arguably one of the most 2000s ensembles ever captured by a paparazzo: track pants, trainers, a Von Dutch hat and a “Mary Is My Homegirl” tee.

    Like “About Fucking Time!,” the “Jesus Is My Homeboy” shirt went back much further than when it experienced a sudden uptick in sartorial cachet thanks to a clothing company called Teenage Millionaire (oft touted by the likes of Ashton Kutcher and the abovementioned Hilton)—which once boasted a store on Melrose. But long before that brand cashed in on the design, thanks to Teenage Millionaire’s Doug Williams coming across the original version of the t-shirt (the rest of the stock was lost when the screenprinting shop that the OG creator used was looted during the 1992 Rodney King riots), the story began sometime in 1980s L.A.. Specifically, when a man named Van Zan Frater was mugged and beaten by a bevy of street gang members. According to Frater, one youth’s urging to “kill him, homeboy!” inspired Frater to say, “Jesus is MY homeboy. And he’s your homeboy, and your homeboy.” This, apparently, got them to gradually scatter, leaving a bloodied Frater to recover only briefly before being mugged a second time in about as little as ten minutes (oh certain parts of L.A. in the 80s).

    When the discarded shirt Frater created to commemorate the “event” was unearthed years later (some accounts say in a vintage store, others in a dumpster), Williams and his Teenage Millionaire partner, Chris Hoy, came up with a backstory about the shirt’s “origins,” claiming “they created the ‘Jesus is My Homeboy’ t-shirt while talking one afternoon about [Hoy’s] Irish Roman Catholic upbringing in a largely Latino community in Hollywood.” It didn’t take long for the shirt to absolutely blow up, appearing on the chests of everyone from Britney Spears to her number one celebrity crush, Brad Pitt. Indeed, that shirt practically was the 2000s.

    Cut to twenty years after its cultural peak and now it seems there’s a new shirt with a similar kind of celebrity cachet making the rounds: “About Fucking Time!” And, in keeping with the gentrification of everything, it of course comes from the runway rather than the streets of L.A. What’s more, although McCartney’s shirt has a much less scandalous and fraught backstory, it does speak to “the trend” of the moment—especially in fashion—to make a big performative to-do about preserving the environment. Hence, McCartney’s fashion show during Paris Fashion Week centering around the theme of “Messages from Mother Earth” (in other words, what MARINA already did by writing “Purge the Poison” from Earth’s perspective). Among those messages, “Gaia’s” most ominously exhorting missive is none other than: “it’s about fucking time”—that humans paid her some respect. She is, after all, the source from which we’re all derived and sustained (the double meaning, to be sure, is that humans are running out of time to amend their behavior, which is why everything, as usual is all about [fucking] time).

    To pay her respect, apparently, means buying clothes from Stella McCartney and, as a sidebar, following her lead on “sustainability.” Alas, while McCartney has been a long-standing proponent of environmentalism and animal rights, there is an almost willful naïveté (that can perhaps only come from being born into wealth) in believing that anything about the fashion industry can ever be sustainable (regardless of McCartney touting, “the sequins are plastic-free”—okay, but they’re still sequins that are probably going to end up in some fish’s mouth—and besides that, what else in the collection couldn’t avoid using plastic?).

    Which is why it’s so ironic that someone like Charli XCX, recently tapped to do a campaign with one of fashion’s biggest offenders of fucking up the planet, H&M, and Paris Hilton, down to wear whatever makes her look “hot,” should have the audacity to wear these “statement” tank tops designed to “advocate” for Mother Earth. When, in truth, the biggest favor anyone in fashion could do for said mother is declare that wearing one outfit per season made out of hemp or recycled cotton is permanently chic. Either that, or come out and say that everyone should only shop at thrift stores going forward. But then, that would put every designer out of business, wouldn’t it? Thus, the idea of “overhauling” the industry instead of eradicating it altogether is the best way that people like McCartney can soothe themselves about their chosen moneymaking endeavor.

    In this regard, there was a greater honesty to the backstory behind the “Jesus Is My Homeboy” t-shirt (which was also completely inauthentic when worn by any celebrity). Because even though it, too, was ridden with the kind of exploitation unique to the fashion industry (read: stealing a design), at least the original creator’s mantra was “purer” and more believable in terms of motive (not to mention more accessible by way of price range). However, contrary to McCartney’s supposed intentions, many people will have no idea that the “About Fucking Time!” shirt refers to Mother Nature (voiced, for McCartney’s purposes, by Olivia Colman). And her demand that humans treat her with more kindness before she punishes them in a way that means “looking stylish” will be the last of anyone’s concerns.

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    Genna Rivieccio

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