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Always use a pot with at least one good-sized hole in the bottom. These plants won’t tolerate soggy soil or standing water around the roots.
To cultivate Vriesea successfully, keep the following in mind:
Light
The main consideration here is to avoid excessive light. These plants aren’t suited for full sun, but there’s a species to match just about any other exposure, from full shade to partial sun.
Most species will tolerate a broad range, from dappled shade or bright, indirect light.
Some are even tolerant of dense, full shade, and are an attractive option if you want flowers in a dim spot.
For the most vibrant foliage and bract color, aim for brighter light. Just because a plant can tolerate low light doesn’t mean it will perform best in those conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
Vriesea species are also adaptable when it comes to temperatures.

Anything from just above freezing to up to 100°F is fine, though the plants will only tolerate extremes for short periods. A hard freeze will kill the plant.
They are fine in low humidity as long as the light isn’t too bright and temperatures aren’t too high.
When exposed to a lot of sun and heat, they will need more high humidity to thrive. Aim for 30 to 60 percent humidity.
Growing Medium
As Vriesea species are epiphytes, clinging to tree branches where water drains away quickly, they need a loose, well-aerated growing medium, not standard potting soil.


Look for a commercial bromeliad mix, or blend your own with equal parts orchid bark, perlite or pumice, and peat moss or coconut coir.
The goal is fast drainage with just enough water retention to keep the roots lightly moist.
Avoid dense or moisture-retentive mixes. Anything that stays wet for long will put the plant at risk of root rot.
Mounted plants can grow with just a layer of sphagnum moss around the roots, so long as humidity is adequate and you mist regularly.
Water
Water thoroughly but avoid soaking the roots. The potting medium should stay lightly moist, not soggy and oversaturated.
Too much moisture can lead to root rot, while water pooling between the leaves may cause crown rot.
That said, it’s fine to fill the central tank if you do it carefully and be sure to flush it out every week or two with distilled water.
Learn more about watering bromeliads here.
Fertilizer
Feed your vriesea with a mild, balanced foliar fertilizer once in the spring and again in the fall. Be sure to coat the entire plant.
Species and Cultivars
There are dozens of species but you won’t often find them available at stores. Hybrids are by far the most popular.


In general, the flaming swords will be listed simply by that common name regardless of whether it’s a species plant or a hybrid.
Here are some outstanding species and cultivars to look for:
Corcovadensis
If you recall, we talked about how most Vriesea species are epiphytes.
V. corcovadensis is one of the few in cultivation that isn’t. It’s a terrestrial type that can grow in loose, rich soil.
You might mistake the long, strappy leaves for an air plant, but it’s not. That’s all the more evident when it shoots out a big, bold gold and yellow flowering spike.
This species is best grown in areas with temperatures between 50 to 80°F. Given that, prepare yourself for vigorous growth up to a foot tall and lots of offsets.
You can pick up a small plant from Sprig and Stone via Amazon.
Splendens
V. splendens is the plant most commonly referred to as flaming sword. It grows up to three feet tall and two feet wide with solid green or stripey purple, gray, and green linear leaves.


This species grows best in temperatures above 50°F and you need to keep the vase full at all times.
The flattened racemes of red, orange, or yellow bracts can last for months.
Splenriet
Splendid ‘Splenriet’ is a splendens hybrid that sports large, attractive leaves with distinct stripes of gray and dark green.


The orange, red, and yellow blooms can last for up to six months before the plant sends out pups and dies back.
That’s quite the lasting performance. It likes the same conditions as its splendens parent.
White Line
‘White Line’ was the result of the efforts of several breeders over many years.
It started when Carlos Broeckaert discovered the first variegated vriesea hybrid V. x poelmanii. He named it ‘Madam Carlos Broeckaert.’
Sadly, it wasn’t stable and breeding efforts from it were failures.
Then the company Deroose got a hold of the plant and attempted to cultivate a stable type – the result was ‘White Line.’
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Kristine Lofgren
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