[ad_1]
8. Snip the ends of the branches and change the water/soda mixture daily.
Forced branch material may grow roots and be suitable for planting outdoors. We’ll talk about that shortly.
If you think you’d like to let your branches grow roots, don’t snip them again, but continue to change the water/soda daily.
Learn more about forcing branches here.
Awakening Hardy Bulbs
Another way to create the illusion of spring indoors is with flowering bulbs.
Hardy bulbs are available in nurseries and garden centers starting at the end of summer.
When shopping, choose those that are firm and weighty, with crisp, papery skins. If they feel spongy, brittle, or lightweight, keep looking.
It’s best to store your purchases in an unheated, dry location with good air circulation.
I keep mine outside in the shed, in a single layer in a rubber bin with a piece of metal screening for a cover.
The cover deters mice. Rodents love to snack on bulbs during the lean months of winter – except for daffodils. You may have to weigh the cover down with bricks to keep it in place.
Three of my favorite flowers to force are daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips.
Daffodils
Typically yellow, trumpet-shaped daffodils are hardy in Zones 3 to 9, where they prefer full sun and well-draining, sandy loam. They readily naturalize and are seldom disturbed by rodents.
‘February Gold’ is a miniature, frost-resistant cultivar that comes up right through the snow at a height of eight to 12 inches.
After 15 weeks of chilling, you can expect flowers in about four weeks.
‘February Gold’ daffodils are available from Burpee.
After enjoying them indoors, you can sow daffodils outdoors, where they will rebloom and readily naturalize.
Read about growing daffodils here.
Hyacinths
Hyacinths are intensely-scented spike flowers with multiple blossoms. They come in equally vibrant colors, including hot pink and deep purple.
They are hardy in Zones 4 to 8 where they grow in full to partial sun with loamy, well-draining soil.
Hyacinths transplanted to the garden after forcing may not display robust blooms until the second year.
The ‘Blue Pearl’ cultivar requires a chilling period of 14 weeks and then blooms in about two weeks. You’ll love the sweet fragrance and dense clusters of violet-blue blossoms.
‘Blue Pearl’ hyacinths are available from Burpee.
You can read about growing hyacinths here.
Tulips
Tulips are available in a broad palette of colors and there are many scented varieties.
If you plan to sow them post-bloom, choose strong rebloomers, such as Darwin Hybrids.
They are suited to Zones 3 to 7 and grow in full sun with average, well-draining soil.
‘Red Impression’ is a lush scarlet Darwin Hybrid cultivar that reblooms vigorously.
Chill it for 16 weeks and expect flowers about four weeks later.
Red Impression is available from Eden Brothers.
Did you ever notice that perfectly arranged tulips don’t stay perfect for long?
They go every which way when no one is looking because tulips are very active flowers – even after cutting, the stems continue to grow.
Additionally, they reach for the sun, a phenomenon known as “phototropism” that causes bending unless growers rotate the container daily.
And if that isn’t entertaining enough, tulips open in the morning light and close again when darkness falls, like the perfect ending to a perfect day.
Read more about growing tulips here.
To Force Hardy Bulbs:
It is essential to mimic the winter cold with a chilling period.
Alternatively, buy pre-chilled varieties and skip this step. However, please note that when forced indoors, they are unlikely to bloom again.
You’ll Need:
- Shards of pottery or small stones
- Small trowel
- Water
How To:
1. In early October, line the bottom of each container with pottery shards or stones.
2. Fill the containers with a mixture of mostly potting soil, a handful of peat moss, and about a teaspoon of granular bulb food.
3. Put one type of flower in each pot so watering suits all of them.
Set daffodils halfway down into the soil, pointed side up. Bury hyacinths and tulips deeper, with only the tips showing.
You’ll fit approximately three hyacinths, five daffodils, seven mini-daffodils, or five tulips in a six-inch diameter, standard depth pot, not touching, to allow for expansion.
4. Dampen the soil, but don’t make it soggy.
5. Cover the pots with screening.
6. Place the container(s) in a cool, dark location, such as an unheated garage. The temperature should be 40°F to 45°F.
Chill daffodils and hyacinths for 12 to 15 weeks and tulips for 15 to 17 weeks.
7. Lift the screening to check the pots every seven to 10 days. Moisten the soil sparingly to keep it from completely drying out.
8. After the appropriate chilling period, bring the pots indoors to a sunny windowsill.
9. Once you see sprouts, water until it runs through the drainage holes.
10. When blooming begins, place the containers in bright, indirect sunlight, farther from direct light.
[ad_2]
Nan Schiller
Source link