Gov. JB Pritzker Crowns Malört the DNC’s Unofficial Shot in Chicago

Politics can be bitter, but no one was prepared for over the weekend when Illinois Gov. JB Pritzker declared Jeppson’s Malört “as the unofficial shot of the Democratic National Convention.”

The governor announced his unofficial declaration on Saturday after appearing in a video segment with former White House press secretary Jen Psaki. The bitter and yellowish spirit is both reviled and beloved in Chicago where passionate opinions have made it a divisive topic.

“If you come to Chicago, every Chicagoan knows you got to have a shot of Malört,” Pritzker tells Psaki. “This is a liqueur that Chicagoans take — I’m not saying it’s the best-tasting liqueur, I’m just saying that it’s the one that if you want to prove your mettle, you got to have a shot.”

The two proceeded to ham it up while enjoying the infamous shot with the governor high-fiving Psaki and praising her, “Well done!”

Psaki pauses as her tastebuds realize what she has done: “Whoo! That has an aftereffect.”

This leaves an uneasy feeling for Chicagoans. There might be a portion happy to see naive politicians and journalists suffer while trying to stomach that first shock shot. But watching Pritzker’s segment, recorded in the lobby of the Hotel Zachary — with the Wrigley Field’s famous marquee in the background — it’s not hard to wonder if Malört is beginning to jump the shark. This used to be a working-class drink, one that survived tough times over nine decades. Dive bar owners were the only ones stocking the drink, often dusting off old bottles in storage for only a handful of fans who enjoy the unusual beverage once marketed as medicine. A few blocks away, Nisei Lounge — one of the few dives that survived after the Hotel Zachary opened in 2018 and remade the area — specializes in Malört infusions. It’s the kind of dimly lit tavern where Malört is best enjoyed. It’s quite a juxtaposition to the huge windows that soak up natural light at the hotel across from the Friendly Confines.

The scene is particularly confusing considering that the Cubs are owned by the Ricketts family, who aren’t exactly known as allies of the Democratic party.

Of course, dozens have chimed in with their hot takes on Malört over the years, and Chicagoans themselves even turned to the drink to celebrate Biden’s victory over Trump outside of Trump Tower in 2020. To combat Pritzker, Republican campaign strategist Kory Wood dared to call Malört “weird,” trying to appropriate a phrase the Democrats have used to attack Republicans.

Music writer Josh Terry writes: “Jeppson’s Malört is perilously close to becoming the next culture war football.”

The reality is Malört isn’t carried at DNC venue the United Center, confirms Tremaine Atkinson, owner of CH Distillery. That’s the company that now owns Jeppson’s Malört. Outside the arena, CNN and Politico have teamed up on a private pop-up restaurant. It’s open from 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. during the convention, set up just inside the United Center’s security perimeter, only accessible to DNC attendees. It’s called the CNN/Politico Grill. They’ve run these restaurants for 20 years outside of both Republican and Democratic national conventions, according to a rep. One popped up earlier this summer outside of Milwaukee at the RNC. They feature local vendors and food.

The Chicago edition will feature Portillo’s Italian beef, Jay’s potato chips, and Marconi’s giardiniera. Vienna beef hot dogs, selections from Publican Quality Bread, and celebrity chef Stephanie Izard’s This Little Goat chili crunch are also available, according to a CNN rep.

Alas, while Big Shoulders Coffee, beer from Haymarket Brewing, and boozy cider from Right Bee Cider are also available, Malört is nowhere to be found: “Damn! It would certainly liven up the conversations!” Atkinson texts.

Coincidentally, CH — which has designs on making Malört a national brand — had already launched a marketing campaign promoting “I voted” stickers, with shirts and decals reading “I Malörted” stickers available at bars and stores.

As Chicago has increasingly become a culinary Las Vegas — where anxious coastal elitists visit and enjoy Midwestern comfort foods without shame, without worrying about their beach bods or judgment — Malört has become part of that ritual. This is a city that embraces craft beer and breweries, cheap beer and shots at dives, and fancy drinks at cocktail lounges. What happens in Chicago stays in Chicago.