Find a Fall Feast of Turkey Mole and Pumpkin Tostadas in Bucktown

With papel picado hanging from the ceiling and sombreros lining the wall, it’d be easy to write off Manchamanteles as cheesy. But then you taste the food and realize there’s an expert at the helm. Chef Geno Bahena’s kitchen specializes in mole, a difficult Mexican sauce to make; Manchamanteles’s version uses an impressive 28 different ingredients.

The restaurant feels like a bygone era of Mexican cuisine. Waiters are dressed like charros, and the decor made me think it was designed to attract Americans eager to relive their Mexican beach vacation. During peak hours, Manchamanteles gets busy but never packed; the massive space means reservations aren’t required. The staff is kind and attentive with steady service that doesn’t feel rushed. Friends, dates, and large parties filled the space on Saturday night during my visit, while Bahena roamed the dining room speaking to guests.

The kitchen’s use of seasonal harvest is where Manchamanteles really stands out. The restaurant deserves vegetarian fans for its use of squash, avocado and carrots.