Chicago’s Iconic Big Baby Burger Goes Vegan on the South Side

Nicky’s of Beverly is not a vegan restaurant. Since 1997 and across two different locations (three years ago they moved to 105th Street and Western), chef-owner Paul Kostopanagiotou has built a formidable following of carnivorous and plant-based eaters alike. A fast-casual neighborhood spot featuring “elevated street food, the restaurant’s massive menu features everything from salads, smoked brisket, filet mignon sliders, Nashville hot chicken, and even a lobster roll.

There’s also Nicky’s version of the Big Baby, an underrated Chicago classic that originated in the South Side, featuring twin beef patties with cheese and topped with grilled onions. Ketchup, mustard, and pickles slide under the patties.

Kostopanagiotou sees an opportunity to introduce non-meat eaters to the specialty. On Friday, November 1, Nicky’s will enthusiastically participate in World Vegan Day with a vegan version of the Big Baby featuring Beyond Meat patties and Daiya dairy-free cheddar taking center stage.

“We’ve been growing the vegan category at the restaurant for years. I just think vegans are a great customer base, and there was a void in the area for that,” Kostopanagiotou says.

While he’s not a vegan himself (though he and his team do enjoy plant-based dishes), he’s made a point of connecting with plant-based eaters in the community, like the Chicago Southside & South Suburban Vegans. “I know some of the founding members and admins. We lean on them a lot as a partnership, as they have suggestions and recommendations and vegan meetups,” Kostopanagiotou explains.

Through those contacts, he’s discovered a variety of plant-based producers, like Good2Go Veggie and Chunk Foods, as well as institutions that help animals. That’s where he learned about the Tiny Hooves Sanctuary, a woman-led nonprofit animal sanctuary located across state lines in Union Grove, Wisconsin. The institution focuses on providing a safe haven — a “forever sanctuary,” as their website calls it — to “abandoned, abused, neglected, and unwanted farm animals while inspiring positive change through the human and animal bond.” Kostopanagiotou said he listened to his local vegan friends when they told him, ‘’This is a solid group — you should look into donating to them.’” On Friday, Nicky’s of Beverly will donate a portion of proceeds from all vegan menu items to the Tiny Hooves Sanctuary.

A lot of restaurants will simply throw on a veggie burger, fried cauliflower, or maybe a half-hearted pizza to appease vegan diners who happen to wind up there, but investing in the plant-based portion of his menu is something to which Kostopanagiotou is seriously committed. Nicky’s of Beverly offers close to two dozen vegan items, such as a vegan shrimp po boy, vegan nachos, vegan Buffalo chicken salad, a vegan banh mi, and much more. There’s coconut milk-based peanut butter gelato and even a vegan shake.

Kostopanagiotou points out that he develops the vegan part of the menu side-by-side with everything else to make sure there’s plenty to enjoy for everyone. “It just continuously expands, and is creative,” he says. “I’m very mindful as I expand the normal menu that I can do that for the vegan menu also.”

There’s plenty to experience at Nicky’s of Beverly, whether customers like vegan food or not. They also have a weekday happy hour, live music, and a gelato bar.