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  • How to Handle a Frightened Feline

    How to Handle a Frightened Feline

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    Cats have a lot of stereotypes surrounding them. They’re considered curious, mischievous, mystical, and even regal. However, everyone is familiar with a feline that’s been characterized as skittish or easily spooked. Cats are very independent creatures, and can sometimes be mistaken for fearful. But there are occasional cases where a cat is genuinely aghast at whatever is going on around it. They are small and fragile, if not somewhat resourceful, creatures. What can be done in such a scenario, where a scaredy cat is unsociable to the point of concern?

    Today’s post will discuss some different strategies for dealing with a frightened cat, and making it feel more at home in its own skin.

    Why is my cat scared?

    There are many reasons why cats develop a fearful disposition. It can be the result of past trauma at the hands of a human or another animal, a disruption in its regular routine, even pain and illness can have an adverse effect on a feline’s mentality. Cats also don’t like continuous loud noises, and cluttered or dirty environments.

    An overabundance of accompanying animals can cause a lot of stress-related fear. This can be exacerbated if the cat doesn’t get along well with the other animals. Another reason they could have developed new and abnormal signs of fearfulness is being exposed or moved to a new environment to which they’re unaccustomed.

    Any number of factors could be contributed to a cat’s fearful demeanor, but what you really need to know is what to do about it.

     

    How to Give Cats Courage
     

     

    Cats feel safe in enclosed spaces. Additionally, elevated areas can also seem like a safe haven. To make a scared cat feel more comfortable, set up a covered cave for them to retreat to. Line it with soft bedding and partially cover the entrance so that the cat will feel safely obscured inside. In the same vein of thought, you can purchase a cat tower for the cat to lie on top of.

    Giving a scared cat a place to hide is a good strategy for making it feel more comfortable, but the eventual goal is to get it to enjoy your company. So you’ll need to interact with the cat. Though because of their finicky nature and fearful disposition, this can be somewhat complicated. You’ll have to go slowly, and let the cat take the lead on interacting. Try to coax it into playing with a toy, fishing pole toys work great for this. It gives you some distance, while still allowing you to interact.

    You can also frequently feed your feline with its preferred brand of cat treats. This along with regular meal times will go a long way in building the bond between the two of you. Most of the time when dealing with a scared cat they won’t take the treat directly from you, and you’ll have to leave it sitting for them. However, after some time has passed and you’ve built some trust you can try hand-feeding. The trick is to do this incrementally, try watching the cat eat from a distance, and get a little closer each time.

    If you can patiently follow these guidelines while still giving your cat the space it needs to adjust, and eliminate any of the outlying stress factors that might be causing a fear response in your cat, then you’ll definitely succeed in socializing your scaredy cat into a fearless feline. 
     

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  • Why Do Dogs Eat Poop?

    Why Do Dogs Eat Poop?

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    We all know that dogs have certain proclivities in regards to their eating habits. Sometimes that can’t help but snack on the same meal twice. This causes a variety of very awkward problems for pet owners; the first that comes to mind is after a stinky meal they haven’t got a problem with licking your face. But bad breath and the ever present danger of contracting parasites are also concerns. Beyond that, it’s just plain gross, and not at all a desirable quality in a family pet. So why do dogs eat poop? And what can be done about the problem? 

    Causes of Copraphagy

    That confusing “C” word in the above heading is the official medical terminology for fecal feasting, and it sounds slightly more sterile, so it’s a more than a little preferable to other popular vernacular: e.g. crap snacking, turd tasting, or wolfing down waste. So we’ll refrain from that sort of language from here on out.

    Copraphagy in dogs is possibly a evolutionary remnant from their scavenging days as more wolf-like kinds of canines. It can also be a learned behavior. Where would dogs that eat poop pick up such a habit?

    From you.

    This is by way of misunderstanding your actions, of course. When a dog sees you cleaning up, it might mistake your intentions. Or perhaps you’ve scolded it in the past for committing a dumping on your duvet. Copraphagy might be their (not so) clever way of removing evidence of the crime.  It could also be that they saw another dog doing the deed and is imitating it. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, after all. 

     

    Stop Your Dog From Eating Poop

    There are a few options for keeping dog breath to a healthier level of stench. You could treat your dog’s food with a chemical to make its stools less palatable. Commercial products such as 4-BID are available for this specific purpose. Or you could cut out the middle man and sprinkle some cayenne pepper on the stool directly. Of course, if you’re going to go to that much trouble, you might as well just pick up the offending fecal matter and throw it away. That, in fact, might be the easiest solution. 

    If you’ve got cats in the same household, you’ll want to limit your dog’s access to the litter box. This can be tricky if you have a dog the same size as the cats. Try putting in a baby gate, or something like it. So long as the cat can still get through without the dog being able to bypass it so easily. You could also try “Shaming”:

    Whatever you do, don’t scold a dog that eats poop. It may associate the unwanted behavior with your attention. It’s like the old saying, that there’s no such thing as bad press. When it comes to a caretaker’s attention, dog’s may be willing to take a tongue lashing in order to be your focus for a few moments.

    In the end it will just take some effort, and perhaps a little creativity to break a cacography inclined animal. Until then, invest in breath mints.
     

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  • Your Cat may Actually be Driving You Crazy.

    Your Cat may Actually be Driving You Crazy.

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    Here’s a frightening thought: your housecat is host to a parasite that can infect you, and in so doing affect your brain function, making you more impulsive, promiscuous, less attentive, less intelligent, and possibly suicidal. Sounds like something straight out of science fiction, but unfortunately this parasite is so pervasive that liberal estimates say that over 8 million Australians could be infected, along with upwards of 60 million Americans. Worldwide estimates of infection range into the billions.

    The disease is called Toxoplasma, and it starts in rats, goes to cats, and ends up inside your freaking brain, in what seems like a very demented spin on the circle of life. When a rat is infected with Toxoplasmosis it loses all aversion to the scent of cat urine, and in fact, becomes sexually aroused by the smell. It then seeks out areas filled with cat odors, and is predictably and promptly eaten by an unsuspecting feline.

    Cats are then similarly infected though their behavior remains largely unchanged, a whole laundry list of symptoms has been associated with the disease, including:

     

    • Laziness
    • Sadness
    • High temperature
    • Sudden reduction in weight
    • Trouble breathing
    • Reduced coordination
    • Seizures
    • Weakness
    • Paralysis
    • Nausea
    • Loose bowels
    • Reduced appetite
    • And inflammation
    • However, the really scary part is how often the disease goes unnoticed because of a lack of these symptoms.

      Humans can catch the disease by being in close contact with cat feces which is where the ocysts, that is to say the toxoplasmosis progeny, are released after reproduction occurs inside the feline’s intestinal tract. It’s also common to catch the disease when in contact with undercooked foods, and is much more prevalent in countries with a tradition of eating such fare, like Brazil for example, which is estimated to have 67% of its total population infected with the parasite.

      So I know this is supposed to be a pet blog, and we’re mainly concerned with pet issues here, but are you ready to hear some really scary facts about this parasite’s effects on human behavior?

      Toxoplasmosis affects the human brain’s fear center, causing a disdain for authority, less adherence to social folkways and mores, an increased risk of schizophrenia, an increased risk of dying in a motorcycle accident, higher rates of suicide among the infected, increased levels of sexual promiscuity among women, and higher frequencies of neuroticism in both sexes. Ironically enough, you’re also more likely to be good at Soccer.

      This psychotic protozoan is a major health concern for all of the above reasons, and is an excellent reminder to wash your hands after changing your cat litter and always before eating. Diagnosis for the disease is very difficult and not often undergone. It includes measuring t cell count in the blood stream as well as tracking the number of liver enzymes.

      Treatment is likewise not always recommended as the disease is only serious in patients with weak immune systems. This is true for humans and cats alike. When it is treated, there is a long list of drugs used to do so, but there is more available in the way of prevention than actual treatment.

      So there’s your daily dose of microscopic horror. Just remember, you’re not always in control of your actions. Sometimes nature plants a scary bodysnatching minute monster inside your brain to help you make stupid decisions. 
       

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  • EPI in Dogs

    EPI in Dogs

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    EPI or Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency is a deadly disease that has seen a sharp incline of recorded cases in recent years. The order is related to certain dogs inability to properly breakdown food and absorb nutrition from them. The cause is related to pancreatic health, and it is a terrifyingly debilitating condition. Luckily, the disease is treatable. Unluckily, the symptoms can be difficult to diagnose. So it’s important to be informed and stay on the lookout for any signs of the onset of EPI.

    EPI Symptoms

    Symptoms of Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency are akin to dysentery. Lots and lots of diarrhea, increased gas, loose yellowish stools, pronounced weight loss along with an increased appetite, eating feces and other out of the ordinary materials, vomiting, in some cases increased aggression or fear responses, loud stomach rumbling, and occasionally there are no visible symptoms whatsoever.

    As you can see, this disease is particularly frightening because the symptoms can be so variable, and ultimately very common to non-life-threatening conditions. After all, plenty of dogs will eat their own feces, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that they all have EPI.

    The main thing to look out for is consistent and unwavering gastrointestinal problems. To test for EPI you’ll need to have your vet do a blood test

    EPI Causes

    Reasons for canines contracting EPI are assumed to be genetic.  In fact, one of the most prominent methods of prevention is to fix the dog as soon as the disorder is identified. This way there are fewer occurrences in the overall gene pool of canines at large.

     

    Despite recently learning that the disease is genetic, the specific genes that cause EPI have yet to be fully determined. However, every year further research is being revealed that would eventually suggest all the genetic markers will inevitably be identified.

    EPI Treatment

    Treating Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency is relatively straightforward. It’s simply putting the enzymes necessary for digestion back into the dog’s system. This can be done intravenously or through taking simple preventative dietary measures. More specifically, the powdered enzymes required for EPI treatment are:

    • Lipase 
    • Protease 
    • Amylase 

    These enzymes are usually available in one package, and the dosage which can be easily ascertained by a vet visit, is in general a single teaspoon for each cup of dry food.  This is usually administered with a fourth of a cup of warm water. This is to soften the food and keep the acidic enzymes from causing sores to develop in the dog’s mouth.

    In addition to adding enzymes to the diet, your vet might suggest antibiotics and shots of vitamin B12.

    Summing up

    EPI is a very scary disease that often doesn’t show symptoms until the pancreas has been completely ravaged, and if left untreated it usually causes a very painful death due to malnutrition or organ failure. Keeping on top of your dog’s health concerns with a healthy diet and regular vet visits are a good preventative, but even then you should keep a close watch on your dog’s behavior and elimination habits.

    As always keep checking back for more helpful pet information from the Petbucket blog. 

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  • Urinary Infection in Cats

    Urinary Infection in Cats

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    One of the most common health problems in domestic cats is that they are especially prone to catching urinary tract infections. While not normally a serious problem in humans, cats can have a rough go of it unless treated in a relatively speedy fashion.  This is because, left untreated, a UTI can eventually spread to the kidneys where it becomes a much more serious difficulty.

    Luckily enough, while the causes of these infections can often be ambiguous, the symptoms are easily recognizable, and the treatments aren’t too difficult. So let’s spend a bit of time discussing the different facets of each category.

    Cat Urinary Tract Infection Causes
    As previously stated, urinary infections in cats often arise unexpectedly. Cats lead some curious and adventurous lives that aren’t always on public display. This can be especially true if they are allowed outside. This being the case, it’s somewhat difficult to know where they might contract any specific disease, particularly one so elusive as a bladder infection.  In general though, UTI’s have been linked to the presence of high levels of bacteria, a variety of different viruses, and stressful situations for the cat.

    It’s not much to go on, but such are the mysterious ways of kitty cats.

    Cat Urinary Tract Infection Symptoms

    While the causes of cat uti’s remain a mystery, uti symptoms in cats couldn’t be clearer. Some of the most common signs of an uncomfortable kitty are as follows:

     

    • Strain or irritation during urination
    • Blood in urine
    • Frequent urination
    • Difficulty during urination, due to a blockage in the urethra
    • There are a few other things that a physical examination by a veterinarian can point out, but for practical purposes these are the symptoms that you need to look out for. It should be noted that male tom cats will often mark territory indiscriminately and very frequently. This shouldn’t be confused with the need to frequently urinate.

      Cat Urinary Tract Infection Treatment

      Assuming there isn’t any blockage in your cat’s urethra, the treatment for this condition will be very straightforward. Simple administration of antibiotics and some conservative dietary measures should do the trick. Wet food will increase the intake of liquid and decrease the occurrence of toxins in your cat’s diet. That way a certain amount of natural flushing will occur.

      However, if your cat does have a major blockage inside its urinary tract then it will most likely be hospitalized and further measures will need to be exercised. Dietary concerns will again need to be addressed, and in severe situations, the veterinarian may even suggest surgery. Though that is an extreme solution, and certainly not one often employed.

      Usually, most cats are well again within a week of being treated. As always, severe cases will be the exception to the rule. However, a quick trip to the vet is usually all that’s required to stave off any long-term negative consequences.  After that, it’s a matter of prevention, which will vary significantly case by case.

      That’s all the helpful pet information for today. Check back for more helpful hints on the Petbucket blog.
       

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  • Puppy Prognostication Part 2: Pregnant Dog Complications

    Puppy Prognostication Part 2: Pregnant Dog Complications

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    Welcome back for part 2 of our series on pregnant dogs. Today we’ll be discussing the possible complications you’re most likely to run into during pregnancy.  Many of these terms we’ll be discussing might sound familiar to parents, as the mammalian processes of pregnancy tend to trend in similar fashions. So let’s jump right in and discuss the signs, causes, and treatments of our first complication.

    Dystocia

    Just like most fetal complications, dystocia is a very serious condition. It can be caused by a number of factors. Either by the Mother’s pelvic dimensions or the puppy’s size or positioning within the womb. A condition called uterine inertia can keep a dog from having contractions, which keeps her from being able to push out the pups. This usually comes about because of a formally broken pelvic bone or it can be due to breed conformity causing an animal to have a smaller than average pelvic girdle.

    Alternatively, the puppy could be at the heart of the problem. If it isn’t positioned head or tail first, the narrow corridors of your dog’s cervix might impede the pups progress.  Or if the puppies are abnormally large the same results can occur. Dystocia is easily recognizable, it’s likely occurring if your dog:

    • has been pregnant for over 70 days
    • has been in labor for over twenty-four hours
    • if there is a rank odor coming from the vaginal discharge
    • is producing a lot of vomit during whelping
    • takes a long break (over 4 hours) between delivering pups

    This is a bad situation to find yourself in. if you suspect your dog is suffering from dystocia, then contact your vet immediately.

    Eclampsia

     

    This disorder is basically a calcium deficiency in the mother’s blood stream. It’s caused by the increased need for calcium which is required to produce milk for the new arrivals. So long as the milk itself looks normal, the puppies aren’t in any danger. Look for the following signs of Eclampsia’s onset:

    • Disorientation
    • Anxiety/restlessness
    • Stiff or inflexible legs preventing movement
    • Fever above 105°F
    • Muscle spasms
    • Heavy or rapid breathing
    • Seizures

    To treat the disorder: immediately notify your vet, and prevent the puppies from nursing to keep your dog from losing anymore calcium. It would also be wise to replenish the dog’s calcium with a milk replacer.

    Other Complications

    You should also seek veterinary assistance if you notice any of the following:

    • Heavy bleeding
    • Green liquid discharge
    • Prolonged nausea
    • Behavioral dejection
    • Feebleness
    • Dehydration
    • Swollen or firm nipples
    • Insubstantial milk output
    • Rotten smelling discharge

    All of these are potential signs to problems that could have a negative effect on the mother, the puppies, or both. So keep a watchful eye when your dog is pregnant, and be ready to call on professional assistance if the need to do so presents itself.

    Unfortunately, there’s only so much you can do by yourself to help a dog during or after whelping. So it’s imperative that you keep your vet’s number nearby throughout the process. However, it should be noted that while these problems are common enough, it’s far more likely your dog’s pregnancy will go off without a hitch. So stay positive, but be prepared!
     

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  • How to Help your Dog during Pregnancy

    How to Help your Dog during Pregnancy

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    Dogs are a lot like people. It’s fascinating to see how much an owner and a pet can have in common. Personalities, dislikes, even physical features can start to blend together. So it’s no surprise that just like people, when a dog is pregnant, it might need a bit more assistance than usual.  Here are some helpful hints about how to help your dog when she’s whelping and during the immediate aftermath.

    Pre-Birth:

    It’s important to be able to recognize the symptoms of a bitch’s pregnancy. Look out for these telltale signs:

    • Changes in appetite– She’s eating for 7 or 8 now!
    • Behavioral aberrations– Your pregnant dog might get sluggish and lethargic, they can also become much more affectionate—or alternatively, more solitary. The dog will also become very agitated directly before birthing begins.
    • Physical abnormalities– Early in the process you should see swollen nipples, later on the abdomen will swell, and you’ll even be able to feel puppies kicking!

    In the onset of the gestation, which lasts about 63 days, you should make it a point to go ahead and set up a nesting area for your dog. Some place dark, isolated, and enclosed would be ideal. Often the dog will take care of this herself when the time comes, but you can facilitate the process with some comfortable (and disposable) blankets, as well as some short barriers that the mother will easily be able to traverse, but that will serve as an enclosure for the puppies.

    It’s important to adjust the expectant mother’s diet, and keep her as clean as possible. It’s also smart to cut her social interactions with other dogs when she’s coming close to term.

     

    During Birth:

    If you feel so inclined, you can bring the pregnant dog to the vet for the birth. However, dogs are slightly more durable than humans in this regard, and can pretty much handle the whole thing unassisted. There will be three stages of puppy birth:

    1. Contractions
    2. Puppies
    3. Placenta

    Contractions signal the beginning for your pregnant dog, next they’ll birth the pups along with the placental covering that they’re wrapped with. Just be ready for potential complications like an abundance of bloody or green discharge. This can signal danger to both the mother and the pups. So be ready to call the vet for further instructions.

    After Birth:

    Next is the fun part. You get to adore the brand new litter. Here’s a step by step process of what to do:

    1. Make sure you initially give the new mother some space. She’ll be protective of her newborns.
    2. See that all the pups are getting enough milk, especially during their first 12-16 hours.
    3. Squeal with joy.
    4. Take lots of pictures to post on your social network of choice.
    5. Be the envy of all your friends.

    That covers all of the major stuff. Check back next week when we’ll discuss in more depth some of the potential complications that a pregnant dog can face. 
     

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  • The Feral Cat Conundrum Part 2

    The Feral Cat Conundrum Part 2

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    Yesterday’s post gave us a glimpse of the painstaking process behind taming a feral cat. However, as we mentioned this isn’t always the best option for a feral cat. They are basically wild, and that can mean very unsociable. Not only can they be physically hazardous, but pathologically too. Feral cats are known carriers of many dangerous diseases that can infect domesticated cats and humans. Rabies, distemper, feline aids, and Toxoplasmosis are all fairly common in stray or feral populations.

    So simply being friendly to a family of feral cats and kittens isn’t always going to resolve the situation. You’ll need to catch the cats and have them treated or relocated.

    Trapping Feral Felines

    To successfully cat-nab you’ll need to either procure or rent an effective trapping mechanism. You can either purchase one online or rent from your local humane society, animal control shelter, or a veterinary office.
    Then you’ll have to set the trap up in a high traffic area for the feral feline population, bait it so as to make it more appealing, and finally it’ll be time to sit and wait while the trap is sprung.

    Here are a few tips to ensure successful feral cat trapping:

     

    • Be certain that you set up the trap correctly by following any and all directions that come with it.  
    • Cover the bottom of the trap with cardboard or an equally appealing surface for a cat. They find the wire unnatural and uncomfortable.
    • Cover the outside as well. Use a towel to enclose every side but the opening. This will help manage the cat’s stress once caught.
    • There are plenty of different effective types of bait such as tuna, sardines, wet cat food, cat nip, and various sorts of meats.
    • Once you’ve caught the kitty it’s time to decide what to do with it. There are several options. You can try to adopt the cat out, but as we discussed in yesterday’s post, socializing a feral cat is no easy task, and your chances of doing so successfully while the cat is in captivity are very low. The ideal thing to do is TNR.

      TNR

      TNR stands for trap, neuter, and release. Before catching your cat, you should schedule a vet appointment. That way you can get the cat in and out as soon as possible, thus minimizing its stress. Once the cat is caught, take it in the following morning, have it fixed, treated for as many diseases as your budget allows, and release it after leaving.

      Even if you don’t treat the cat for pathogens, it won’t be able to procreate and pass diseases on to its kittens.

      Animal Shelters: An Unappealing Solution

      If you decide to take the feral cat into an animal shelter, you should keep in mind that you’ve basically issued a death sentence. There is an abundance of domesticated cats in these shelters, and no room budget for cats with behavioral issues.  

      That concludes our advice on feral cats. Make sure to come back and visit the Petbucket blog for more helpful advice on various animal issues.
       

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  • Questions and Solutions Part 1.

    Questions and Solutions Part 1.

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    Feral cats and kittens are an interesting dilemma. They capture our hearts and imaginations, and just leaving feral felines, even particularly unsociable ones, to the elements doesn’t sit well in the cat lover’s conscience.

    So what to do? Can you tame a feral cat? Let’s take a deeper look into this question, and some possible solutions to the feral cat conundrum.

    What are Feral Cats?

    First off, a feral cat is not domesticated. They don’t like people. They’re distrustful of them, and will hiss and spit at their approach. Or just look to avoid human contact entirely.

    Feral cats shouldn’t be confused with stray cats. Strays are domesticated cats that have been abandoned, or have run away. These may still be skittish, but ultimately they are much more open to human contact than their feral cousins.

    Taming Feral Cats

     

    As a rule, taming feral cats is very difficult, if not impossible. This isn’t always the best solution. However, there have been recorded cases of successful domestications.  

    It is a long process that takes plenty of pet know-how, and even more patience. However, if you’re willing to take on the odds then you should follow this basic procedure:

    • Leave out some food, and give them plenty of space. Cat’s respond to food and it usually is the number one builder of trust.  
    • Be patient. This bond you’re trying to build may take weeks, months, or years to manifest.
    • Never approach the cat. Let it come to you. It has to be the one to take the initiative. Just speak sweetly and leave the food bowl out, then go back to your house.
    • Set a routine with feeding, and stick to it. Cats are creatures of habit. If they know food is coming at regular intervals, they’ll make sure to be on time. Also make a signal noise to indicate feeding time. You could whistle, call out “dinner time!” or something to that effect.
    • After some time has passed, a few months perhaps, try sitting outside while they eat. It might not work at first, or at all, but this is the logical next step. Just don’t look at the cat while you’re outside with it. It’ll feel threatened.
    • Eventually, if the cat accepts your presence during meals, it may want to check you out. Don’t try to pet it, or even move toward it. Resist the urge to pet. Leave your hand dangling, and it might start rubbing against that. Just be patient and allow the cat to take the initiative.
    • Take things slow, and in due course, you may make a friend out of the feral feline. Always be wary of bites and scratches, and remember to move in a patient and sequential manner.

    If this intricate animal whispering process doesn’t sound ideal, then you will have to look for other options. Join us again tomorrow for part 2 of this post, and we’ll examine these other options together.
     

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  • What is Parvovirus?

    What is Parvovirus?

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    Whenever you first take your dog to the vet one of the initial tests and vaccinations your furry friend will receive is for the parvovirus. What is parvovirus?  Well, the relatively recent advent of the dangerous virus known colloquially as parvo has decimated dog populations throughout the world.

    The terrible disease attacks the digestive systems of, not just dogs, but all canids, and occasionally cats as well. Related strains have even been found in human beings. It’s a deadly disease with a lot of ugly implications, especially parvo in puppies. So for your animal’s protection, and your peace of mind, let’s look a little deeper into the nature of this disease.

    How Dogs Catch Parvo:

    Parvo in dogs can occur in a number of ways. How dogs catch parvo is usually by ingesting or coming into close contact with the feces of another infected animal. However, it can also be caught by licking anything the infected fecal matter has come into contact with. That means if you step in dog mess, and your dog chews a shoe it could be a very costly vet bill for an unvaccinated pup.

    Parvo Symptoms:

    This is where things begin to get really nasty. As soon as your dog shows any of the following symptoms it’s already past time to get to the vet’s office.

     

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  • A Hard Problem to Solve?

    A Hard Problem to Solve?

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    Dogs are known for soft stomachs and cats are always coughing up hair balls, so what’s an owner to do? First things first, you have to understand that this is a very common problem to be dealing with, and it doesn’t necessarily mean that your pet is violently ill. Let’s take a look at some of the finer points of this complex issue.

    Differentiating Between Vomiting and Regurgitation

    A common mistake people make is assuming that all their pet’s mouth expulsions are created equal. In fact, there are two distinct types of digestive deportations. Namely: vomiting and regurgitation. 

    Vomit is evacuated food that originates from within the stomach. It is acidic and chunky. It’s usually indicative of a more serious problem. Regurgitation comes from the esophagus, and is much more common. It is usually a foamy and white mucous substance that doesn’t require much effort for a dog or cat to expel.

    Causes of Vomiting

    There are a lot of causes of vomiting. Everything from serious conditions, like pancreatitis or kidney failure, to the obscure, like Addison’s disease or Pyometra, on down to the mostly benign, like eating garbage or table scraps. In any case, if your dog or cat is vomiting frequently, the best course of action is to schedule an appointment with your veterinarian as soon as possible.

     

    However, if your pet has had no previous health issues and the vomiting events are isolated, it’s probably something you can manage by close observation and dietary discretion. If you’re really concerned, bring it up to your vet at the next scheduled checkup, but don’t lose sleep over it.

    Causes of Regurgitation

    As previously mentioned, regurgitation is a much less worrying form of animal ailment. Regurgitation in dogs or cats occurs because of a blockage in the esophagus. Food, fur, debris, and what have you all end up caught in a pet’s throat. Once the blockage becomes intolerable, the animal effortlessly expels the nastiness on top of your favorite rug, or possibly your shoes.

    Either way, it’s a nasty mess, but not so nasty nor so dangerous as the dog or cat vomiting already described.

    Treatment

    Treatment for pet vomiting/ regurgitation can vary wildly. In nearly all cases, the best thing you can do is keep a diligent eye on your pet to see if the throw up  was a one-time thing, or a recurring digestive anomaly.  Once you’ve got a good idea of how your dog’s stomach troubles come about, you can report to your vet. In many cases the vet will offer a variety of solutions such as:

    • Diet change
    • Antibiotics
    • Intravenous fluids
    • Deworming medication

    These are only a few of the possible treatments your dog or cat could receive for a soft stomach. When dealing with pet vomiting and regurgitation it’s important to remember how varied the causes and treatments can be. It’s not a one size fits all problem and there are no magic all-encompassing solutions. Keep a watchful eye and a positive attitude, and as always check back here on the Petbucket blog for more helpful tips and advice.
     
     

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  • DNA Test for Dogs: Discovering Mixed Breed Ancestry

    DNA Test for Dogs: Discovering Mixed Breed Ancestry

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    Owning a mutt is advantageous for a few reasons. They’re outbred dogs so they usually won’t have any of the breed specific health issues common to purebred dogs. They are numerous, and much cheaper than a certified full blooded animal, and they are often extremely well-adjusted pets that make for grateful companions. However, you don’t get the added benefit of extensive breed history or managed expectations due to your wide breadth of knowledge concerning a particular animal bloodline.

    The other less tangible drawback is your own curiosity. Owning a mixed dog breed often leads to a lot of speculation. You’re always wondering whether that short snout is a sign of a pug or a bulldog. Is that curved bushy tail more reminiscent of a huskie or a retriever? Luckily, the answers to these frustrating questions have been available since 2007 and are becoming increasingly affordable to purchase.

    We’re talking, of course, about DNA tests for dogs. For the last 6 years several veterinary corporations have been offering blood or cotton swab tests that offer to determine your pup’s hereditary history for a nominal fee. These tests don’t claim 100% accuracy, but they do offer enough exactitude to clear up any dinner table debates about a mixed dog breed.

     

    The major player in the game of breed determination is actually a candy company. Isn’t that sweet? Mars Incorporated, maker of Mars bars, Snickers, M&M’s, and Milky Way’s—all of which will ironically kill a dog—also owns a very large pet-care division called Mars Veterinary. Mars Veterinary has a product called the Wisdom Panel. For prices that begin around 60 dollars, you can order a sample collection kit from the wisdom panel to find the breed of your dog. The panel will then identify your dog’s ancestry up to its great grandparents.

    It works by looking at your dog’s DNA and identifying certain genetic markers that match an established database of those same markers which appear in other dog breeds at different frequencies. The greater the number of markers, the more accurate the test. Since Wisdom Panel has been doing it the longest and has the largest database, they are assumedly the industry leader for this process.

    While the information is fascinating, it serves little more than an informational and entertainment purpose. You can’t use these genetic analyses to determine potential health issues for your pet, nor does it serve any other particularly practical purpose. It’s just to sate curiosity and fuel conversations. It’s basically a novelty purchase for pet lovers, and because we love our useless novelties, it’s a popular one too.

    Once again, these tests are basically just for fun. No medical information can really be inferred, and you won’t be able to certify your dog as purebred, (that can only be done an official kennel club, and it isn’t cheap.) However, you definitely can use these test to settle a silly argument or bring up a bit of interesting water cooler talk at your earliest given opportunity. 

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  • Shedding Light on Heavy Shedding

    Shedding Light on Heavy Shedding

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    Pet owners everywhere are up to their eyeballs in dog or cat fur during the hot summer months. Why do cats and dogs shed so much fur? What causes it, and is there any way to slow down the animal shedding onslaught? Today’s topic concerns finding the answers to these questions and explaining the most practical and applicable solutions for pet owners the world over.

    First off, we need to find out what causes these massive waves of hair loss. As it turns out, it can be a lot of different factors. The main things to consider are the growth phases. Most dogs and cats will begin growing new coats during the spring and fall seasons. That’s because the change in length of the days activates chemical signals in their brains. When the days get longer, the new coat needs to be thinner and shorter. Alternatively, when the days get shorter, the new coat’s got to be 

    thicker and longer. This is a natural adaptation that allows these animals to
     better tolerate the seasonal temperature extremes. This seasonal effect will still be present, but far less pronounced in an exclusively indoor pet.

    Other things that can cause shedding are damaged hair, stress, and lifestyle. Damaged or broken hair has to be replaced, and just like a human being can go grey or bald due to stress an animal such as a dog or cat can also experience the same phenomenon. Your pet’s coat is  a reflection of its lifestyle which includes diet. So if the coat is getting thin and dull, you might want to rethink your favorite dog food.

    So what can be done to prevent tumbleweeds of dog or cat hair from making your home look like it’s been covered in shag? You have to abide by the hair removal standards.

     

    Grooming– And lots of it! That means brushing at least once a week, it’s often better to do it daily depending on the breed of animal you’ve got. Bathing is another standard you should add to your routine.

    Cleaning house– No matter how much hair you get off of a fuzzy friend, they’re always going to have more. Be proactive and consistently vacuum to circumvent the total hairy domination of your dwelling place.

    Shaving– Not so much of a solution for short haired pets, but if you’ve got a 

    longhaired shedding dog or cat then a seasonal haircut is one of the biggest favors you can do for your four-legged companion.

    Protect your assets– Furniture throws, lint rollers, and dryer sheets. Make friends with these items. They’ll keep your possessions as fuzz free as can be expected when sharing space with a furry hurricane.

    Vet visits– Many hair loss cases are a direct result of poor pet health. Make sure to schedule regular visits to your vet’s office to ensure this isn’t the case.

    It’s a lot of work keeping a clean house with a longhaired pet, so find the right tools and keep a positive attitude. Otherwise you’ll end up under a mountain of pet pelt. 

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  • How to Decide on a Policy [INFOGRAPHIC]

    How to Decide on a Policy [INFOGRAPHIC]

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    After deciding whether or not your pet needs veterinary insurance, it’s time to pick a policy. With many different companies offering competitive plans, it can be difficult to know where to begin. Here is a short guide to different factors you must consider when committing to a monthly payment that will likely last the lifetime of your pet.

    Premiums

    First things first. You need to find out how much you’re willing to pay, and what you’re able to get for that amount of money. Luckily enough, these monthly premiums are relatively affordable. For around what you would spend on a gym membership you can insure your dog against illness, accidents, and vet visits as well. Premium price is predicated on a number of variables. Things like age, preexisting conditions, breed, and whether or not they’re neutered can edge the monthly payments in one direction or another. You should expect to pay somewhere between 10 and 70 dollars monthly in most cases.

    Having a pet with a preexisting condition can disqualify you from many different policies right away, and if it doesn’t it will likely increase the premium above the average. The same is true for age, so seek insurance early if you’re going to do it. The younger and healthier the animal, the lower your premiums will be.

    Coverage

    Next you need to look at exactly what’s covered. Most policies will cover 

    accidents and illnesses. You can pay extra for routine checkups, usually labeled as wellness insurance. However, many find this to be somewhat superfluous coverage that can be planned for and offset by having money set aside specifically for veterinary care. Take a look at how much this costs and see if it exceeds the amount you would pay for vet visits, teeth cleanings, and nail cuttings.
    Also important is seeing how far coverage extends, and most importantly what it excludes. As previously mentioned age and preexisting conditions will almost universally disqualify your pet for coverage, so make certain that all of your needs are met by a policy before signing up.  

     

    Fine Print

    A few things to look for in the fine print:

    • Premiums locked in- Many policies will try to sell you on adjustable rates. Be aware.
    • Multi-pet discount- If you have a household with multiple pets, you can probably qualify for a discount on your pet veterinary insurance policy. Make sure to ask about it.
    • Deductibles- Go for a higher deductible, as that will make your monthly rates much lower.
    • Limited Payouts- Some policies might limit a payout according to the incident. Make sure you know the maximum payout you’ll be able to receive.

    Summing Up

    A pet’s health is of vital concern to their owner, but the costs associated with maintaing health care for animals throughout a serious accident or illness can be overwhelming financially. Do your own research and make an informed decision before committing to anything.

    Check back tomorrow for more helpful information on specific policy providers from your friends at the PetBucket Blog!

     

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  • Investigating Veterinary Insurance

    Investigating Veterinary Insurance

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    Nobody wants to dwell on it, but health and wellness issues are a constant worry for owners of older dogs and cats. Especially for a low income family, pet sickness, disease, or accidents are a gigantic financial concern. Not only are these issues a financial concern, but the availability of advanced medical veterinary procedures leave families in an ethical conundrum as well. How much is your pet’s life worth? At what point do you plan to throw in the towel?

    Most hope to never be forced to consider these questions, but eventually most will. Unfortunately, healthcare costs for pets are almost as expensive as they are for humans. On the brighter side, there aren’t many instances in most pet’s lives where unreasonably expensive procedures are necessary. However, this bright patch leaves you with another difficult query: should you insure you pet’s health against disease, illness, and accidental injury?

    Even for someone who will do anything for a pet, this isn’t an easy question. Many veterinary insurance policy premiums end up being much more costly over time than a significant health problem that occurs later in life. Then again, this is often the case with many car or health insurance policies as well.
    That doesn’t make the policies any less useful when you need them.

    So what should the determining factors for a decision on veterinary insurance be? Like most difficult decisions this one initially boils down to income. If you are independently wealthy, and can handle an occasional crunch in excess of 5 thousand dollars, then you probably don’t need to worry over health care for animals. It’s a drop in the bucket and you’ll be able to deal with it.

     

    If this doesn’t describe you, and a pet’s medical emergency could put you in a serious hole, then a pet veterinary insurance policy might make sense for your family’s furriest member. At that point you have two options: A personal savings slush fund for your pet, or a veterinary pet insurance policy. In either case you’ll pay monthly premiums to ensure the healthcare of your animal at a future date.

    It may be best to cut out the middle man. After all, pet insurance is considered a type of property insurance. That means rather than the policy paying your vet, you’ll pay out of pocket, and file a claim for reimbursement. Not to mention the fact that there are deductibles to consider.

    Still a well-researched plan could potentially save you a boatload of money, especially if you research the policies thoroughly before purchasing. This goes double for a family pet that’s at high risk for congenital or hereditary diseases.  

    It’s a tough call, and a balancing act that requires careful consideration and extensive introspection. With all of the various variables in play, it can be tough to make a confident decision. The most important thing for you is to consider your pet’s risks, and then your commitment to your pet’s health.

    Check back for the next post in which we’ll discuss how to pick the pet insurance policy that’s best suited for your needs. 

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  • Clipping Claws 3: Finishing Touches

    Clipping Claws 3: Finishing Touches

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    We’ve gone through the basics of trimming dog’s nails and how to cut cat nails. Now it’s time go over the final details to make any claw clipping session a successful effort.

    First, let’s review the commonalities between clipping dog’s nails and cat’s nails. With either pet, you’ll need to get them acclimated to the idea of paw handling before ever attempting to trim those talons. You also can use similar tools for either canine or feline feet. These tools include guillotine, scissor, and plier style clippers.. Finally, for both dogs and cats you’ll need to cut above the quick of the nail or you’ll cause bleeding and pain for the animal in question.

    Now onto the unknown! When things go wrong while claw clipping, as they are occasionally bound to do, it’s important to have a backup plan. So if you accidentally clip a little too high and notice some blood flow accompanied by an uncomfortable cry from your animal, you’ll need to patch that wound up ASAP. That’s where a little bit of Styptic powder comes in very handy. Styptic powder is an Antihemorrhagic, which is doctor speak for something that stops bleeding. Apply this to the end of the claw, (assuming the animal will stay still enough for you to do so) and any leakage will be put to a stop in short order. If you don’t have any styptic powder, some cornstarch or flour can do in a pinch.

     

    The next thing you need to consider is a scenario where your dog or cat absolutely refuses to sit still and allow this process to continue. This can be a real mess. If you can, restrain the pet with your forearms placed firmly over their shoulders and hips. This weighs them down at the joints and makes it more difficult for them to move, however squirming isn’t completely eliminated. If this doesn’t work then you might need to recruit a friend to help hold the animal in place. And if that doesn’t work either , then you have no choice but to take your pet to the veterinarian’s office for assistance.

    Many vets will offer reasonably priced nail cuts for an unruly pet. In the most extreme circumstances this means putting a pet under anesthesia, but that is a very rare scenario reserved for behaviorally challenged pets who’s claws may end up growing into their own paws.

    One more thing to consider is what might happen without regular trimmings. In short, if left unchecked dog and cat nails will continue growing in ever shaper curves that will cut into their feet causing painful sores or be more prone to cracking, or tearing off when snagged. Thus cutting dogs claws as well as cats can be a very important preventative measure for their health.

    That about covers the bulk of the basic information on cutting your pet’s claws. So remember to keep it trim, and always come visit the Pet Bucket blog for helpful tips on pet care. Until next time!

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  • How to Cut Cat Nails

    How to Cut Cat Nails

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    Welcome to part 2 of our series on how to cut your pet’s nails. Today we’ll be discussing the basics of clipping claws on cats. Luckily, if you read yesterday’s post, there’s a lot of overlap in feline and canine nail cutting techniques. However, cats are notoriously less social than dogs are so it might be a bit more difficult if you don’t work extra hard on conditioning your cat for trimming nails.

    Conditioning your Cat

    This process works very similarly to the one for dogs. You have to start handling a cat’s paws immediately. They are less likely to sit still for it, and much more likely to give you a painful bite or swat for your trouble. So to avoid a trip to the first aid kit, it would behoove you to wait for an ideal opportunity. Wait until your cat is taking one of its dozen daily naps and softly touch its paw. Most cats can’t stand this, so they’ll either pull away, or walk away.

    Don’t force the issue. If the cat is finished then let it be. However, every time you get the opportunity this is a process you should repeat. It’s best to combine paw handling with regular petting as well. That way the cat will start to associate their paws being touched with pleasant sensations.

    Eventually, the cat will become comfortable with you touching its paws. Now’s the time to take it a step further, and inspect the paw. Use your thumb and forefinger to squeeze the cat’s finger joints. This will unsheathe the cat’s claws. You can see from there whether there are any splits or cracks. Those are clear signs it’s time for claw clipping.
     

     

    Claw Clipping Tools

    Many of the same tools used for trimming nails on dogs can be used for cat claws as well. However, a rotary tool should never be used on a cat, and scissors style clippers should only be used on the dew claw, which tends to grow in a circle because it isn’t ground down while walking or clawing. You can even use a regular pair of human nail clippers. Just make sure to be extra cautious.

    Quick Tips

    If you think your dog was upset when you accidentally trimmed too far, you’ll be shocked at the cat’s reaction. They’ll never forgive you. Cat quicks are easy to avoid because of their lightly colored claws. You can clearly see the pink hued quick within. If you have an especially squirmy kitty, have a friend hold it still while you’re claw clipping. Otherwise place your forearms firmly over the cat’s shoulders and hips to hold it in place while you’re trimming.

    Finishing Touches

    You’ll find it easier to clip more than one claw at a time in most cases, so fit as many claws beyond the cutting line as possible, make sure you aren’t beyond the quick, and make a surgical strike. It’s also best to keep nail trimming on a schedule. Once every 10 to 14 days is good. And never ever try to cut cat nails when the animal is agitated. It won’t go well.

    That’s all for today’s post. Check back again tomorrow for our final summation on animal claw clipping!

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  • Animal Actors: Celebrity Quadrupeds Part 2

    Animal Actors: Celebrity Quadrupeds Part 2

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    Welcome back to the Petbucket blog’s official examination of famous Hollywood pets, animal actors, and celebrity mammals of all sorts! We capped things off last time with a fascinating look into the elder statesman of feline film: That Darn Cat. Today, we’ll be venturing off of the silver screen and away from the furrier aspects of animal actors. Two of today’s animal actors are television stars and only one has to shed a winter coat. So without further ado, let’s talk about some of the world’s most famous on screen animals!

    Flipper

    Did you just hear the iconic dolphin noise from the world famous TV and film series in your head? Guess what? That’s not a dolphin. They doctored up a kookaburra’s call and dubbed it over Flipper’s own majestic call. Nothing is sacred in Hollywood.

    Regardless, Flipper is still a world famous water enthusiast in his own right. Well, in her own right. Flipper was actually played by 5 different dolphins, all of whom were female, but most often the two star thespians were named Suzie and Kathy.  The show ran three seasons during the 1960’s and ended up with 88 episodes of crime stopping, wildlife preserving, tricky dolphin action.

    While the show itself was anything but controversial, the former head trainer/stunt double from the show, Ric O’Berry became a dolphin activist and was featured in the award winning documentary The Cove.

     

    Mr. Bigglesworth

    Played by a sphinx cat named Ted Nude-gent, Mr. Bigglesworth appeared in the Austin Powers film series. Ted is a sphinx cat that was brought in as a gag during the first film. After the traditional Bond-style Persian cat is cryogenically frozen, it loses all of its hair, and so a Sphinx-y star was born.

    Sphinx cats are super friendly animals that are able to perform in films because of their trainability. They are often compared to dogs for their propensity to please humans. Ted fell in love with Mike Myers, who would often delay the beginning of filming to make sure that the cat was comfortable. And more than a few scenes in the movie were extended because The Nude-ge had already started snoozing in the comedic star’s lap.

    Wishbone

    Getting back to the canine side of things, it’s time to revisit a 90’s television classic. Wishbone, the title character of the show, was played by a Jack Russell Terrier names Soccer. Soccer was one of 100 dogs who auditioned for the role of Wishbone.

    The beloved 90’s television series featured a dog daydreaming about playing the lead role in different stories from classic literature.  He would compare the storylines to whatever was happening in the lives of his family, and would offer literarily inspired advice to an unhearing human populace, and usually complained about the fact that no one would listen.

    This show ran only three seasons, but in that time managed to make a significant impact on children all over the world. And it’s still being rebroadcast by certain PBS affiliates.

    That concludes our examination of famous pets! Check back for more interesting discussions on our favorite furry companions!
     

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  • Animal Actors: Celebrity Quadrupeds

    Animal Actors: Celebrity Quadrupeds

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    Animal actors have a long history in Hollywood. Movie magic and fluffy cute stage hands go together like butter and popcorn. Every variety of animal gets represented eventually, but there are a few standout performances from well-trained domesticated companions. So to shed some interesting light on some of your lesser known four legged celebrities, here’s a short history of some of the most iconic animal actors in show biz.

    Rin Tin Tin

    While most would probably recognize the name Rin Tin Tin from the early nineties television serial: Rin Tin Tin K-9 Cop, this household name has its origins all the way back in WWI. The original Rin Tin Tin was rescued from a French battlefield in the great war along with his sister of the same litter named Nanette. American army corporal, Lee Duncan retrieved them both from a kennel that had been shelled.

    After the war he trained Rin Tin Tin for silent film acting, and the dog showed a real aptitude for the big screen. He played in 27 different films throughout his life, and actually had enough votes to win the Academy award for best actor one year. However, the Academy in typical snooty fashion, decided that the recipient had to be human to win. Jerks.

     

    Lassie
    Probably the most famous dog of all time, Lassie is another animal actor that enjoyed its heyday long after the character’s inception. The initial story of Lassie again dates back to WWI, that was a good conflict for famous animals. The original, was only half collie, and was credited with saving a man’s life on a torpedoed British pilot boat. She apparently recognized the man as alive in a mass of dead bodies, nuzzling him and keeping him warm until he stirred. He was then rescued by the surviving sailors.

    From there Lassie’s legend grew and she became a fictionalized character in a novel first, then a series of movies, and finally the famous television series. The dog’s name that most people recognize as Lassie was Pal. Pal and 8 generations of his descendants have played the character in almost every major Lassie vehicle since the original movie: Lassie Come-Home in 1943.

    That Darn Cat

    That Darn Cat was a wildly successful Disney film in the early 1960’s, as well as a remake in 1997. The plot featured a mischievous feline named D.C. (Darn Cat,) who manages to help foil a bank robbery in a comically roundabout way. The calamitous kitty character was actually played by a team of Siamese cats. This precautious breed is renowned for being social and extroverted, making it the ideal feline movie star. Still, being such finicky creatures, it’s easier to have a group to work with. You know, in case the star decides it needs a nap mid-scene.

    There are plenty more Animal Actors to talk about, but that’s all the room we have on today’s post. Check back next week for another installment in this interesting history of celebrity pets.

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  • An Abbreviated History of K-9 Crime Fighters

    An Abbreviated History of K-9 Crime Fighters

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    There’s just something fascinating about a crime fighting animal. Human beings have been depending on dogs to help protect life and property for thousands of years, and in the 21st century we’ve gotten it down to a science.

    The modern police dog has its roots in the latter half of 19th century Germany, with the establishment of the German shepherd breed. However, official records of police dog usage date all the way back to medieval England. Not even the late middle ages either, but way back in the 12th century. When Europe was still crawling out of the dark ages, dog kennels were being maintained by local constables to track down outlaws.

    Many of these early police dogs were used more as a deterrent than for actual police work. Knowing that their liege lord had a stable filled with hungry, ill-tempered blood hounds was enough to make most unarmed citizenry wary of breaking any of the local laws. That’s another thing, the sweet temperament and cute floppy ears of today’s bloodhounds are a rather recent introduction into the breed’s bloodline. Back in the 1100 AD, when they were 800+ years closer to still being wolves, blood hounds were savage and disobedient. Although they still had their remarkable ability to track scents even through dense marshy terrains. 

     

    England has a humorous history of K-9 usage. In the year 1914, London constables were allowed to bring their personal pets along with them on patrol. Dogs were still considered helpful in police work, but setting aside portions of the budget for training was viewed as wasteful. This led to a colorfully assorted group of police dogs. There were terriers, retrievers, sheepdogs, collies, mongrels, spaniels, plus one sassy Pomeranian.

    Nowadays that sort of thing wouldn’t fly in most precincts. Maybe as a mascot, but otherwise you’re dealing with some seriously skilled and well-bred K-9 crime fighters. The list of breeds used in police work is extensive but the most common types are German Shepherds, Belgian Malanois, Dutch Shepherds, Argentine Dojos, and Boxers. They are mostly gigantic (100 to 150 lbs. /45 to 68 kg.) animals with excellent temperaments, and intelligence to spare.

    These dogs are used in detection, tracking, protection, search and rescue, even in arson cases. They’re smart, driven, and powerfully loyal to their handlers. In many cases K-9’s are given official police officer status. This means attacking or injuring a K-9 carries a much heavier penalty than a typical animal cruelty charge. Additionally, if killed in the line of duty, these dogs are given a full police funeral. However, most of them enjoy a full working career of 6 to 9 years and then a relaxed retirement with their handlers.

    Dogs are handy helpers no matter what profession they are employed in. But it’s really nice to know that man’s best friend has been gainfully employed protecting citizens the world over for nigh on a millennium, and they’re only getting better at their jobs. So support your local police, and help them buy bacon for the local K-9 unit near you!

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