Category: Home & Garden

EUPHORBIA Spurge

(Named for Euphorbus, physician to the King of Mauritania)

This is an interesting genus of plants, which give off a milky juice when any part is bruised or broken. The upper leaves are in many cases showy, while the flowers are inconspicuous. It is to this group of plants that the popular Christmas Poinsettia belongs.

SPECIES. Painted Spurge (Mexican Fireplant), (Paintedleaf), (Annual Poinsettia) or (Fire-on-the-mountain). Euphorbia heterophylla. This plant has deep green foliage until the middle of Summer, when the top leaves turn scarlet either all over or merely at the base. When the plants are growing well, they become much branched and exceedingly handsome. They attain a height of 2 or 3 feet.

Variegated Spurge. (Snow-on-the-mountain), (Ghostweed) E. marginata (variegata). This species is wild in the United States from the Dakotas to Texas and eastward. The leaves are oval, the upper ones being margined with white. The flowers are less showy than the leaves. The plants grow 2 to 3 feet high.

Where to Plant. Both the Mexican Fireplant and Snow-on-the-mountain are useful in a border of annuals. Their oddly colored leaves are sure to attract attention. The latter mentioned sort branches at the height of about 1Y2 feet, so that when it should be most showy, it is often bare at the base. However, any other annual growing about 2 feet tall may be planted in front in order to hide the bare stems. We might suggest for this French Marigolds.

GENERAL. Both species prefer heat and full sunshine, but they will grow in rather poor soil. Sow the seeds of the Mexican Fireplant when danger from frost is passed. It is best to sow 3 or 4 seeds in a place, and when the seedlings appear, to pull up all but one, as the plants need a space of 18 inches to develop in. The Snow-on-the mountain is perfectly hardy, and the seeds may be sown very early in Spring. In some localities it behaves as a perennial and sprouts up each Spring. It also self-sows readily.

Information on 50+ annual flowers

When you want lots of color quickly, flowers to cut by the armful and bloom all summer, you want annuals. For earliest possible bloom, sow seeds indoors, then transplant-or buy started plants in May. But you’ll still get plenty of flowers if you wait till the danger of frost is past and sow the seed of quick-growing varieties where you want the plants to grow outdoors.

Annuals will grow anywhere, in any kind of soil. You’ll get the biggest, brightest flowers when your plants get direct sunlight for about half the day. And don’t skimp on plant food and water if you want the best results.

To convince yourself you’re both rich and lucky, try growing your own flowers from seed.

Annuals-zinnias, petunias, asters, marigolds, and the like-are your best bet for showy bloom you can enjoy within a matter of weeks. just do this

• Choose a spot that gets sun for at least five hours a day.
• Fork or spade the soil a good 8 inches deep; then pulverize and smooth it.
• Because seedlings in rows are easier to identify than seeds sown broadcast, mark off rows according to the sizes of the seeds. Make inch-deep furrows for zinnias and nasturtiums, only half that deep for larkspur and cosmos. For petunias, sweet alyssum, and poppies, roughen soil a little; then sow by covering seeds with just a dusting of fine dry soil.
• Water the rows before planting. Shade with folded newspapers, burlap, or a veil of grass clippings. Remove burlap and paper when the first green seedlings start humping up into the light.
• Space your seedlings. You can thin by transplanting. Move enough seedlings so that each has room to develop. This is 12 to 20 inches for zinnias and the larger marigolds, as little as 8 inches apart for sweet alyssum, phlox, and portulaca.
• Keep soil about the roots when shifting your plants. Settle in place with a cup apiece of water in which you’ve dissolved a good plant food, at the rate of 2 tablespoons to each gallon of water.

SNAPDRAGON

Uses: For cut flower or garden display Colors: Almost full range Height: Dwarf, 1 foot, others 18 inches Final spacing:18 inches When to sow: Earliest spring. (Sow inside for even earlier bloom) Try these varieties: New Tetra varieties are very large, often ruffled, and on extra compact spikes

Hint: If you water carefully to keep leaves dry, rust isn’t likely to attack your plants.

CALENDULA

Uses: Masses of bloom. Cut flowers Colors: Orange or lemon, sometimes penciled with a deeper color Height: Up to 2 feet Final spacing: 12 to 15 inches When to sow: As soon as soil can be prepared in spring Try these varieties: Yellow Colossal (huge, clear yellow); Yellow shaggy (more informal); Orange Ball (vivid color) Hint: Keep the fading flowers picked to lengthen flowering period.

CALIFORNIA POPPY

Uses: Mass color Colors: Orange, creamy white, carmine, pink Height: Up to 2 feet Final spacing: 8 inches When to sow: Early spring. (Or in fall) Try these varieties: Sunbeam (erect, double orange flowers); Red Chief (single, deep red); Creamy Crinkles (apricot double); Ramona (golden bronze inside, coppery rose outside) Hint: Unless moved with an unbroken ball of soil, plants do not transplant easily.

COSMOS

Uses: Background for annual beds and borders. Excellent cut flowers Colors: Crimson, pink, white, yellow Height: Usually 5 to 6, may reach 10 feet Final spacing:: 18 inches When to sow: Early spring Try these varieties: Yellow Flare (golden); Orange Flare (golden orange); Radiance (rose with crimson center Sensation Hint: Pinch out tips of shoots frequently to keep plants branchy and full of bloom.

PANSIES

Uses: Edging. Cut flowers Colors: Almost every hue, blotched or pure Height: 6 inches to 1 foot; climbers 18 inches or more   Final spacing: 12 to 18 inches When to sow: Sow in August plants for early spring blooms. For bloom this spring, buy plants Try these varieties: Oregon Giants, Swiss Giants, Canadian Giants Hint: Don’t allow pansies to go to seed; pick them every day.

PETUNIA

Uses: Profusion of bloom and mass color effects. Edginess window boxes Colors: Rich purples, crimson, scarlet, all tones of rose and Oink, white, almost real yellow Height: 1 foot to 18 inches Final spacing: 1 foot; farther to bring out the charm of an individual plant When to sow:– May or indoors in March Try these varieties: Try the new all-doubles and such singles as Flaming Velvet, (mahogany-red), Cream Star (yellow); and Salmon Beauty (salmon-pink) Hint:: Choose a sunny spot for maximum bloom.

PHLOX

Uses: Bedding or cut flowers Colors: Scarlet, crimson, pole pink, deep yellow, white, amber Height: Up to 18 inches. Plants tend to fall over and send out upright branches Final spacing:: 12 inches When to sow: Outdoors when danger from frost is post, or indoors in March Try this variety: Tetra (largest Flowers) Hint: Cut off old flowers to prolong bloom.

VERBENA

Uses: Borders; Flowers Colors: Brilliant rose, palest blush, pure white, deep violet Height: Verbatim trails over the ground, builds itself up to a height of about a foot Final spacing: 12 to 18 inches When to sow: In February in the house, or as early as you can take care of the plants. Seeds are slow to germinate Try these varieties: Grow the large-flowered varieties. Moss verbatim is a good groundcover Hint: Pinch plants when young so that shoots do not all grow in some direction.

Nasturtium

Uses:: Climbers, bedding plants or edging plants, depending on variety. All provide lots of color over long period Colors: Gold, pale yellow, brilliant. scarlet Height: Climbers, 12 feet, Gleams climb less rampantly; Tom Thumbs, 12 inches Final spacing: 18 inches for Gleams, 12 inches for climbers and Tom Thumb varieties When to sow: When soil warms in spring Try these varieties: The Gleam varieties are favorites, but Golden Globe is one dwarf not to miss Hint: Nasturtiums grow well in fairly poor soil. Rich soils produce too abundant foliage which hides the flowers and cuts down bloom.

MORNING-GLORY

Uses: To cover trellises and to hide unsightliness Colors: All except yellow Height:. 12 feet Final spacing: 2 feet is close enough When to sow: Wait for worm weather. Or sow in small pots indoors, transplant later. To hasten sprouting, soak seeds overnight in hot water or scratch seed coat slightly Try these varieties: Heavenly Blue (clear blue); Pearly Gates (white); Scarlet O’Hara (red); Cornell (White, edged with carnelian red) Hint:– Pull up older types that s elf-sow. They are weedy compared with new varieties.

NICOTIANA

Uses: Provides perfume for evening air Colors: White, crimson, pink Height: 3 Feet and up Final spacing: 18 inches When to sow: In April or when soil begins to warm Try these varieties: Nicotiana aff inisis white and extra fragrant at night, but colored varieties are perhaps more beautiful Hints: Plant in clumps toward back of border. Use as backgrounds for lower annuals such as larkspurs and zinnias.

SHIRLEY POPPIES

Uses: Mass color. Excellent cut flowers when cut in the bud stage Colors: Scarlet crimson, lavender, pink, white. No blue, no yellow in annual poppies Height: Shirley 18 inches Final spacing: 8 inches When to sow: Poppies are hardy annuals, may even be sown on snow. Sow in succession to extend blooming period. Don’t transplant well Try this variety: American Legion (orange scarlet) Hint: When sowing poppy seed, mix the fine seed with sand to insure good distribution.

CORNFLOWER

Uses: Garden color. Unexcelled for cutting Colors: Blue, red, pink, white. Doubles are superior Height: 2 to 21/2 Feet Final spacing: 6 to 12 inches When to sow: Fall or early spring Try these varieties: Jubilee (dwarf); Blue Boy (21/2 feet, favorite cornflower blue); Pinkie (21/2 feet, true pink); Snowman (21/2 feet, pure white) Hint: Try cornflowers planted with calliopsis. The contrast of the blue with the gold is striking, Flowers of self-sown plants are usually inferior.

LARKSPUR

Uses: Slender spikes add vertical lines to your planting Colors: Violet, purple, shell pink, white Height: 2 feet and up Final spacing: 8 inches, farther for ground-branching types When to sow: Early in spring as possible. Don’t transplant Try these varieties: Dark Blue Wonder (velvety blue); Salmon Wonder (salmon-rose). Both branch from near the soil and bloom only a little later than some less desirable kinds Hint: Try sowing some this fall to get earliest bloom in 1951. Larkspur grows best in cool weather.

SWEET ALYSSUM

Uses: Popular edging plant Colors: White, purple Height: 6 to 10 inches, sometimes trailing Final spacing: 8 inches; 1 Foot or more for Violet Queen When to sow:. As soon as soil can be worked in spring Try these varieties:. Little Gem (very dwarf), Carpet of Snow (spreads wider), Violet Queen (practically the only edging plant of this color) Hint: Clip back plants on one side when they become unsightly, then shear other side several weeks later.

ZINNIA

Uses:. Excellent cut flowers, lasting indoors as long as any annual. Hot-weather borders Colors: Rose, yellow, crimson, scarlet Height: 3 feet (dwarf varieties 18 inches) Final spacing: 18 inches in borders, can be closer for cut flowers When to sow: As soon as soil is warm; (can be sown, indoors in April) Try these varieties: New Luther Burbank zinnias have pastel tones. Grow fantasy types where giants and dahlia-flowered blooms would look too heavy Hint: Cut freely to encourage continuous bloom.

NIEREMBERGIA

Uses:Splendid for bedding and edging Colors: White or pole violet Height: 2 to 8 inches Final spacing: 2 inches apart each way When to sow: A perennial usually treated as an annual; sow indoors for summer blooming Try these varieties: Coerulea Purple Robe (deep-violet flowers, compact growth); Nierembergia rivularis, whitecup, (Flowers cream-white, sometimes rose- or blue tinged) Hints: Prefers sandy soil and sun. Combines well with dwarf marigolds.

Marigold

Uses: Flashy color in borders. Dwarf varieties ideal for edging Colors: Orange, lemon, chestnut-red, often with dark centers Height: Tall kinds may reach 4 feet. Dwarf varieties 6 inches to 18 inches Final spacing: 1 foot for dwarfs; 2 feet for tall kinds Try these varieties: Red Hood (new dworf, redder than most); Flash (18 inches high, in red and bronze tones), Yellow Pygmy (a good edger); Mammoth Mum (30 inches high, yellow blooms 3 inches across); Sunset Giants (3 to 4 feet, blooms big enough to brag about)

Hints:. Marigolds withstand heat; use them for sunny places.

 

Annuals

Hardy annuals are easy to grow and will give a quick and brilliant display provided they are grown in an open, sunny position in any good garden soil. Many annuals are tender and easily killed by frost, so these kinds are sown under glass in the spring and planted out when all danger of frost is over. Some hardy and half-hardy kinds make excellent pot plants for the greenhouse and there are others that need greenhouse cultivation entirely.

Some, such as the nasturtium, flower better if grown on rather poor soil. Most annuals will make too much leaf growth if grown in soil that is too rich or in shady places. Their rapid growth makes them invaluable for the new garden when flowers are wanted the first year, or for filling in gaps in newly planted herbaceous borders. Some, such as trailing lobelias, dwarf nasturtiums and petunias are useful plants for hanging baskets. Many are useful for providing color in urns, terrace pots, window boxes, tubs and other plant containers. Certain low growing annuals find a place in carpet bedding schemes such as are still found in public parks. Although the purist may frown upon their use in this way, a few annuals are suitable for the rock garden.

A number of annuals have very fragrant flowers, as well as rich color. Some have flowers or seed heads which may be dried for winter decoration indoors.

Some annuals, including a number of those used for carpet bedding, are grown for the sake of their colorful foliage.

Apart from removing faded flowers, keeping them weeded and staking the taller kinds they need little attention.

Growing hardy annuals The soil should be broken down to a fine tilth and well firmed before the seeds are sown. Sow in shallow drills or scatter the seed broadcast after previously marking out the position for each group of annuals selected. Cover the seeds in the drills by drawing the soil over them, or rake in the seeds sown broadcast. It may be necessary to protect the seeds and seedlings from birds and cats by placing wire netting or brushwood over the seed bed.

Some hardy annuals may be sown in August or September to flower early the following summer. As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle they should be thinned. With autumn-sown annuals leave the final thinning until the following spring. Distances apart vary considerably, depending on the ultimate height of the annual, but as a general guide dwarf-growing annuals should be thinned to 10-16cm (4-6in) apart. Those that grow to 38-46cm (15-18in) tall should be thinned to 23-30cm (9-12in) and taller kinds should be thinned to 30-60cm (1-2ft) apart.

If seed is wanted for sowing again next year it is best to mark a few good plants early in the summer The seed heads should not be gathered until they are fully ripe.

Nothing stops me in my tracks more than when I’m looking at a garden jam-packed with color and texture and come across a spot of bare soil. It puts a screeching halt to well-planned flow. 

Gaps in the garden happen because the plant that was supposed to be growing there didn’t, or perhaps because other plants didn’t fill the space it was expected to. Sometimes these gaps are temporary, such as when a shrub hasn’t yet filled its allotted space. 

Whatever the reason, there’s plenty of time to remedy the situation and by mid summer you can have a gap-free garden without having to make another trip to the garden center.

RESEEDED ANNUALS

Reseeded annuals, which pop up in little clumps around the garden, are perfect for filing holes in the garden. Most of them transplant well if watered in quickly, and the clumps are thinned to the strongest seedlings.

In my garden there is always some Nicotiana popping up somewhere and although I have no idea what size or color will come from the seedlings, which are undoubtedly a mix of any number of potential parents I grew the previous year, almost any of them will work in holes anywhere but the very front of the border.

Now is also the time of year when I start to find Verbena bonariensis seedlings or tiny plants of its more charming cousin Verbena officinalis ‘Bampton’, both of which work as excellent fill-ins. Jewels of Opar (Talinum paniculatum) is always the last reseeder to show up and I try to save some space for it around the garden.

ANNUALS TO SOW DIRECTLY

You probably won’t have a lot of reseeded annuals popping up if you’re an over-achieving weeder or heavy mulcher, y, but there are several annuals that can be sown directly.

My go-to fill-in annual is nasturtium, which has the benefit of working in almost any sun condition and filling in large areas. The pea-sized seeds are easy to pop in the ground and will produce a large mound in several weeks. Be careful to buy a mounding variety rather than a one with a trailing habit.

Zinnias and cosmos are also good annuals to direct sow for some additional color. Keep thea seeded area moist for a couple weeks through germination and seedling infancy but once they get going they won’t ask for much other than occasional deadheading.

RAID THE VEGETABLE GARDEN

If a bit of foliage is needed, quick-growing edible plants will fill in an area and add a bit of surprise.

If you have vegetables that need thinning, consider trying to transplant thinnings to the garden to fill a few gaps. Parsley will add feathery texture and kale can provide a bold statement. Or perhaps consider the shiny leaves of Swiss chard for fabulous texture.

DIVIDE PERENNIALS

Most perennials won’t appreciate summer division, but some tougher varieties such as catmint (Nepeta), Ajuga, Lamium and others will probably bounce back with some extra care.

If you do decide to divide perennials in the hotter months, try to do it on a cooler, overcast day. Most perennials will benefit from cutting back the foliage to reduce the strain on the roots, and of course make sure to water them in well after transplanting and for a few weeks after.

`What you fill a gap in the garden with isn’t as important as just filling it with something. Consider it your chance to get creative and keep that design flow going.

 

Planning the Fall Vegetable Garden

Missed planting peas last spring? No problem. In the PNW, we can grow peas for a fall harvest! Have some space where your newly-harvested lettuce used to grow? It’s the perfect spot for fall beets, broccoli, or even more lettuce.

Let’s look at where to plant, how to improve the soil, and whether you should plant seeds or starts (baby plants), then I’ll provide a list of vegetables suitable for the fall/winter garden and tell you when to plant each one.

Where to Plant

When planting for autumn, it’s a good idea to practice crop rotation. If you can, plant something different than what you had in that spot in spring and summer. This is especially important for crops in the Cabbage family (broccoli, kale, radishes) and Beet family (beets, swiss chard, spinach), as well as carrots and onions. Some of the pests that attack these vegetables could still be around and planting the same thing in the same spot makes it all that much easier for them to feast.

Remember also that you can sow seeds or even plant starts (baby plants) in tight spaces if the vegetables that are currently growing there will be harvested soon. Radishes and carrots can be planted in between rows of maturing lettuce or bush beans, for example. And you can sow lettuce between rows of overwintering cabbage or cauliflower.

Improving the Soil

Your summer vegetables have most likely used up essential nutrients in the soil, so adding a natural vegetable fertilizer (we like Dr. Earth or Espoma brand) will give your new plants a much-needed boost. You can also amend your soil with high-quality compost, such as E.B. Stone Planting Compost or Gardner & Bloome Harvest Supreme. For containers, always use potting soil (again, E.B. Stone and Gardner & Bloome offer excellent options) mixed with fertilizer, added according to package directions.

Now is also the time to mulch your soil, after planting, with several inches of compost (Gardner & Bloome Soil Building Conditioner is great as mulch) to keep summer’s heat in the soil and help retain soil moisture.

If you decide not to plant your entire space, consider sowing a cover crop such as crimson clover, vetch, winter peas, or favas in the fall. These legumes are nitrogen fixers and will improve your soil. Let them grow through the winter, then till them into the soil in spring before they go to seed (I can’t emphasize that enough) and voilà – improved soil!

Starts or Seeds?

Planting starts will allow you to harvest earlier in many cases. For many of the edibles mentioned below, starts are preferable to plant in August. However, fast growers like lettuce, parsley, radishes, arugula, or vegetables you will harvest small (baby carrots and young leaves of spinach, kale, and Swiss chard) can easily be grown from seed or starts, depending on your preference. If sowings of seed fail to germinate in early August because of heat and inconsistent water, try again in late August and September when they may germinate more easily. 

Note: plant starts can be planted up to 2-3 weeks later than seeds must be sown.

Many vegetables have varieties that are best suited for fall and winter. At Swansons, we carry fall gardening varieties of plants and seeds in July and August. You can also check seed packet information to see if a variety is recommended for fall gardening.

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Jun

Tertiary colors are the hues that sit between secondary and primary colors on the color wheel. These color options offer a chance to experiment with garden color undertones. Options include yellows tinted with green, reds that glow with orange and blues that shift into a violet realm. These options make for vibrant color varieties for your garden!

 

Adjacent colors can really affect how these hues appear in the garden. Where a yellow-green plant placed within a true green backdrop may read as yellow, the same plant situated alongside true, butter-yellow plantings will appear greener in contrast. Check out some of these triad color garden palettes using plantings that fall into tertiary hues:

 

Blue-Violet, Red-Orange, and Yellow-Green Garden Color Options

• Blue-Violet – Baptisia “Blueberry Sundae”
• Red-Orange – Impatiens – “Orange Infinity”
• Yellow-Green – Heuchera “Apple Twist”

 

Red-Violet, Yellow-Orange, and Blue-Green Garden Color Options

• Red-Violet –Viola “Sorbet Carmine Rose”
• Yellow-Orange – Marigold “Queen Sophia”
• Blue-Green – Hosta “Canadian Blue”

 

Main image above was captured at Farmside Gardens.

Choosing the plants for a container garden arrangement can sometimes seem daunting. How do you decide which plants will create the multidimensional masterpiece you envision? 

It can be helpful to use a concept that breaks down the design process by categorizing plants into three categories: thrillers, fillers, and spillers. This three-part solution offers a demystifying method for intriguing container design arrangement and is a great guide to successfully creating a lush container that combines plants to harmoniously perform different functions. 

Thriller Plants

Thriller plants add attention-grabbing height and drama. Thrillers usually display prominent characteristics such as bright foliage, colorful flowers, or an intriguing form. Thrillers are generally the tallest plant in an arrangement, offering a vertical element that acts as a focal point. When composing your arrangement, this is a good place to start. Choose your thriller plant and then fill in around it. 

Tip: When planting, keep in mind how the container will be seen. If it’ll be viewed from all sides, plant the thriller in the center. If it’ll be viewed from one side, plant the thriller in the back. 

Thriller Plants for Sun Examples:

Cordyline, Wilma Goldcrest Cypress, Dahlia, Salvia, Snapdragon, Grasses, Juncus Patens, Chamaecyparis, Azara microphylla, Dwarf Hinoki Cypress, Corokia Cotoneaster, Nicotiana, Lavender.

There is a group of plants that the garden literature warns us against with such phrases as “spreads rapidly” or “tends to get weedy,” or “not for refined areas.” These plants gradually have been outlawed from the aristocratic seclusion of the perennial border. But they can take care of themselves once they have been given a start and may become useful citizens in the right environment, such as, for example, the garden of a summer home.

It isn’t really difficult to win the cooperation of these outlaw plants. There are many species, many colors, and many habits of growth short of downright aggression that can be made use of. Some of them are quite beautiful, with varied desirable characteristics; and in company with their own kind, they can fight it out. The fittest survivors will cheerily greet the owner when he arrives for the summer, season after season.

Among them are low-growing spreaders from 6 inches to one foot high, that will serve as ground covers or edgings – if one is not too particular about the exact area he wants edged. Others of medium height will supply bloom nearly all season. Several varieties yield gracefully to cutting – welcoming, perhaps, the opportunity it affords to reestablish themselves socially.

The accompanying plan suggests a way to use some of them in borders near the house. The place originally planned for is a farmhouse in New England with an old Apple tree as the focal point of the garden. Under the tree is a ground cover planting of Gill-over-the-ground (18), Nepeta hederacea, which aims to inherit the earth by its meekly aggressive spreading. The foliage is interesting, the blue flower has a charm, and the leaves have a strong odor. It will grow in the shade, in wet or dry soil. Wherever a branch touches the soil, it takes root. To compete with it is the charming and equally aggressive Creeping Charlie (17) or Moneywort, Lynmachia nummiilarla. The flowers are yellow, the leaves round, smooth textured and light green. It is vigorous enough to crowd out grasses and makes a beautiful carpet. The familiar ‘ Runningmyrtle (16) or Periwinkle, Vinca minor, is also quite capable of caring for itself, and Lily-of-the-Valley (4) is another cooperative spreader, once it is well established in a place to its liking.

In the gardens of long ago, the favorite edging plant seems to have been the Variegated Bishop’s-weed (2), Aegopodium, podagraria variegatum, a crisp, neat foliage plant with white-margined leaves. This is so persistent that often it is the only thing left to indicate that in the past a garden stood there. Bugle-weed (1) Ajuga genevensis, is a fine-edging plant that produces flowers that vary from dull red to white and blue. The Purple leaf Bugle (3), Ajuga reptans rubra, is prostrate in habit, and has deep purplish-blue flowers and purplish leaves. Since it is very low-growing, it can be used in front of the other edging plants mentioned. The Purple leaf Bugle will do well in shade, but if the situation is -very sunny, Bluebells of Scotland (19) or Harebell, Campanula rotundifolia, will probably be more satisfactory. Its neat foliage and airy blue flowers make it welcome wherever it is found.

There are many border subjects among the- horticultural outcasts. The Sweet Rocket (15), Hesperis matronalis, one of our most fragrant flowers, is one. Its Phlox-like blooms, varying from white to magenta, are particularly sweet in the evenings from June to September. Although it is a biennial, it self-sows to such an extent that it becomes a weed in the garden and often escapes. Its charm and fragrance plus its self-assurance make it ideal for the summer home. Another vagrant is Bouncing Bet (12), Saponaria officinalls, which has the buxom vigor its name implies. In its way, it is quite beautiful, as the color of the blossoms when they open is an exquisite rose pink.

A favorite in early New England gardens was Maltese Cross (7) or London Pride, Lychnis chalcedonica. The typical color is fiery scarlet, which makes a vivid display in the hot midsummer sun. The Mullein-pink (20), Lychnis coronaria, combines soft woolly gray foliage with vivid crimson blossoms, producing a rich effect that can hardly be surpassed. Another summer-blooming perennial is the False Dragonhead (9), Physostegla virginiana, whose colors vary from rosy pink and lilac to white. The plants grow very rapidly, so become a nuisance in a refined area; but are excellent for supplying bloom where no care can be given.

This survival-of-the-fittest garden can have a variety of colors. Nominees are not limited to any particular race, creed, or color. Take the Bellflowers, for instance: we tend to think of them as rather refined garden subjects, but there is one of the family that refuses to accept conventional bounds. The European Bellflower (8), Campanula rapunculoldes, although an immigrant, has accepted all of our country it can lay root to.

The flower is dainty and the color is good, so we grant it citizenship. Another flower of a clearer blue is the native Spiderwort (13), Tradescantla virginiana, which has long held its place in old-fashioned gardens. It makes a strong, dense clump bearing rich blue flowers from May to August. One wishes that the proportion of flowers to foliage were greater, but the foliage is a good green.

The charm of the early-blooming Cornflower (25) or Mountain Bluet, Centaurea montana, with its deep blue, rose or white flowers, often win a place for itself in the perennial border. It spreads rapidly by underground stems, and the civilized gardener must be vigilant to keep it in check. However, this quality makes it a desirable one for our purposes. Anchusa or Bugloss (10), Anchusa azurea, variety Dropmore, with its Forget-me-not flowers, is also an acceptable border subject. Its ability to self-sow very readily makes it a self-reliant plant wherever it is established. The roots are juicy and brittle and break easily when the plants are dug. Each piece of root that remains in the soil will produce a new plant.

Perhaps the Lupines (11), LuPinus polyphyllus, do not belong with these easily established plants, for some gardeners try unsuccessfully to grow them; but if the temperamental things like a location (usually one with poor soil), they insist on taking more and more. Since they are so stunning in color and habit of growth, they may be worth encouraging.

If tall background plants are needed in the border, Bee-Balm (23), Monarda didyma, -is an excellent choice. The flowers are deep red and rather striking in appearance; the foliage, in addition to being dense and of good color, has a pleasing minty fragrance. BeeBalm roots form a thick sod or mat that is proof against being crowded out by other plants or by weeds. The background may be varied by planting some of the Asters. There are many kinds of wild Asters that would readily adapt themselves to border conditions. One species, New England Aster (24), Aster novae-anghae, is common in cultivation, but there are many other good ones.

A few accents of yellow and white are desirable in most borders. Sundrops (5), Oenothera biennis, are among the most charming of those banished from formal areas. Their habit of opening their satiny yellow Poppy-like flowers in the evening has given them the common name of Evening-primrose. Another charming yellow is the Golden Marguerite (22), Anthemis tinctoria, which can be used for cutting, too. The beautiful, Daisy-like flowers are borne from midsummer to frost. It is splendid in masses, and good for hot, dry places, although it will bloom in partial shade. It spreads rapidly and will happily fulfill the command to multiply and cover the earth. Another self-reliant species that is doubly useful because it is good for cutting as well as for its landscape effect is the Yarrow (14), Achillea ptarmica. A double variety, The Pearl, has been developed and fortunately still retains its wild vigor and is able to compete even with grasses. The Common Valerian (6) or Garden Heliotrope, Valeriana officinalls, is another plant that was prized in old-fashioned gardens mainly for the fragrance of its flowers. It is an ideal filler or background in bouquets made up of brighter flowers, and the masses of white or pale lavender sprays are dainty and charming in themselves.

Horticultural outcasts, it is clear, are not so because of lack of color, variety, or charm. Their vitality alone has caused their downfall. They love life. They love it so vigorously, so abundantly, so exuberantly that they do not recognize the bounds of civilization. Vacations grant us freedom from some of the conventions; therefore it is fitting that our summer gardens be populated by these hardy vagabonds.

SELF-SUFFICIENT PLANTS FOR A PLANT-AND- FORGET BORDER

The courtyard garden suggested in the little sketch on page 28, and shown in the plan opposite, is made up of the species listed below (plan key numbers in parenthesis). They are listed according to use or flower color. It’s easy to fit them into a plan for your own place

EDGING PLANTS Bishop’s-weed (2) Bluebells of Scotland (19) Bugle-weed (1) Lily-of-the-valley (4) Moss-pink (21) Purpleleaf Bugle (3)

GROUND COVERS Creeping Charlie (17) Gill-over-the-ground (18) Running-myrtle (16)

BORDER YELLOWS Golden Marguerite (22) Sundrops (5)

BORDER WHITES Valerian (6) Yarrow (14)

BORDER PINKS AND REDS Bee-Balm (23) Bouncing Bet (12) False Dragonhead (9) Lupine (11) Maltese Cross (7) Mullein-pink (20) Sweet Rocket (15)

BORDER BLUES AND LAVENDERS Aster (24) Bugloss (10) Cornflower (25) European Bellflower (8)

Lupine (11) Spiderwort (13) Valerian (6)

Information on 50+ Perennials

A PERENNIAL GARDEN THAT TAKES CARE OF ITSELF

L. THOMPSON

When you imagine a shade garden, do you mostly picture foliage plants and a lack of bright colors? While foliage plants are the foundation of any shade garden, there is an abundance of flowers that offer beautiful blooms in shady conditions!

Defining Shade

When choosing flowers, it’s important to know which type of shade you are working with. There are a few different shade levels we talk about when determining the care requirements and placement of plants.

• Part Shade (also called Part Sun) is an area that receives about 4-6 hours of direct sun per day. Plants that prefer part shade like morning sun but should be protected from intense afternoon sun.

• Dappled Shade – this can be a type of part shade in which sunlight trickles down through the leaves of overhead trees most of the day or it can be considered full shade if the light trickles down for only 2-4 hours each day.

• Full Shade is an area that receives less than 4 hours of direct sunlight per day but is not completely without sunlight.

• Deep Shade is an area that receives little or no direct sunlight. For example, it may be both along a north wall and under a tree or deck, obscuring even ambient light from the sky. Most plants will not grow in deep shade.

Knowing these definitions is a good start to understanding plant tags and choosing the best flowers for your shady spot. If you’d like more in-depth information about shade, check out our blog post, “Fifty Shades of… Well, Shade.”

15 Flowers for Shade

These flowers thrive in shady conditions and have bloomed well in my PNW garden. I’ve loosely arranged them by bloom time so you can plan to have flowers throughout the year.

All flowers in this post grow well in Part Shade to Full Shade. This means they also grow well in Dappled Shade, whether it is part or full.

The North

Annual flowers that come into bloom quickly may still be sown and give excellent results. Calliopsis, candy­tuft, cape-marigold, Gypsophila, cornflower, and love-in-a-mist are a few de­pendable ones.

Hot, dry places may be planted with Dwarf Morning-glories, portulaca, California-poppy, calliopsis, and annual phlox.

Spring-blooming shrubs, such as the Vanhoutte Spirea and Forsythia, should be pruned now.

Paper mulch is splendid for light soils and for well-drained heavy soils. Try part of your garden with it and part without it, so you may compare the difference.

Some tropical fish may be used in place of sunfish for the lily pool. Some of the species which you have at­tempted unsuccessfully to breed in your aquarium will sometimes do well in the pool.

Watering should be sufficient to moisten the soil thoroly to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. It is seldom that anyone of us has the patience to apply this quantity, holding the hose in our hand. It is better to use a portable sprinkler, or if your yard is so arranged, a per­manent pipe-line sprinkler.

The red spider is so injurious in many sections of the country that we feel it is necessary to mention it again.

Chrysanthemums. One of the great faults of hardy chrysanthemums is that they grow too tall, but if we pinch out the tops of the plants so that they stand only 6 or 8 inches tall, this will cause them to branch freely and increase their bloom. It may be wise to place a stake at the center of each plant and tie the main shoots to it.

Molybdenum steel is the newest and most popular material for garden tools. The tools may be lighter and yet stronger and more lasting when made of it. It is surprising how much easier a higher grade shovel or spade is to work with than a cheap one. The same is true of trowels.

Your raspberry and blackberry bushes will need to have the new growths pinched back to make them branch.

Because spring was late in many places this year, it is likely that most Iris bloom will be crowded into June, except in the South. This will be the case for all types of Iris except the dwarfs and early intermediate bearded Irises whose blossoms will have passed.

Early this month, Iris fanciers may enjoy the gorgeous blossoms of new tall bearded varieties as well as the Siberians which have been greatly improved in recent years. These are followed shortly by the lovely graceful flowers of such beardless types as the Southern species hybrids and spurias. At the end of June the imposing Japanese Iris will command attention everywhere.

Moving Irises now

Fortunately, not much cultural activity is necessary during flowering time. This gives the Iris gardener an opportunity to enjoy the results of his labors and also a chance to visit other people’s gardens and commercial plantings. There, one can note the latest novelties and select varieties to be added to the home collection. If desired, plants can be dug at a nursery while in bloom, taken home, and planted immediately. This can be done without any appreciable harm to the plant, though of course, it is better to wait until the rhizomes have matured in July before lifting and planting.

Cut flower stalks close

As soon as Irises have finished blooming, no matter what type, cut off the flower stalk close to the ground-flush with the top of the rhizome in the case of bearded Iris. This allows more air and light to penetrate into the clump and helps to maintain it in a healthy condition. Likewise, when cutting Iris for home decoration, cut the stalk off close to the ground instead of snipping off sections of the stem near the top. Stems can always be shortened before being arranged.

In June, especially during hot wet spells, watch closely for evidences of rhizome rot, the foul smelling bacterial decay of the root, described last month. Operate on the rhizome, drastically if necessary, to remove all decayed portions and then smear the wound with sulfur or copper carbonate. If the rot has affected several rhizomes in a group, lift the entire clump and replant only the sound rhizomes after letting them dry thoroughly out of the ground for several days.

Any Iris borers that escaped attention in May will by now have penetrated the rhizome and have become sizable worms. There is no choice but to dig up and discard rhizomes thus attacked, otherwise the injury caused by the borer is very likely to bring on rot and cause worse havoc later on.

Thrips and leaf spot

An occasional dusting of Iris plants with sulfur-rotenone in June will help forestall leaf spot on bearded Iris and keep in check any Iris thrips which may be harbored on the leaves of Japanese Iris. On the latter, thrips if prevalent may prevent the blossoms from opening in a normal fashion and the otherwise gorgeous blooms may be much deformed due to the insidious activities of this tiny insect, much the same as with Gladiolus.

With all these admonitions I do not wish to create the impression that Irises are usually plagued with diseases and insects when in fact they are remarkably free of them. However, as the old saying goes, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.”

By F. W. Cassebeer

Spring was a long time coming this year. As a result, it now looks as though a few Peonies will be in bloom north of the Potomac and Ohio Rivers before June. Attention is called to the May Peony Tips, many of which are also applicable to June.

Cultivate often enough to keep weeds down and the soil loose. Water in abundance is necessary for the finest bloom and proper plant development. Remove all faded blooms promptly. Do not allow the seed to mature unless you need it. Trim the plants back slightly to make them more presentable in the summer garden, but never cut them down to the ground until late fall.

Choose varieties now

Blooming time is the best time to select varieties for fall planting. Visit one or more good Peony collections. Choose the types, colors, and habits you like best and buy accordingly. New varieties have been introduced by the hundreds in the past twenty years. Many improvements have been made in singles and Japs. Better colors, better habits, and better bloomers have come.

Insects do little damage to Peonies as a rule. Ants visit the buds because of the honey they exude, and they sometimes carry diseases.

Borers occasionally enter a stalk and cause it to collapse. Damage is usually done before we know the borer is there.

Rose bugs in infested communities do much damage to blooms. Use any remedy you may know. Thrips destroy many blooms, especially the very double late flowers.

Diseases take their toll sometimes. Prevention is the best cure. Clean the landscape grounds and cultivation will do more than adding chemicals to prevent any diseases. Use occasional sprayings of Bordeaux to be on the safe side.

When leaves wilt

Watch your plants and if you see leaves wilting, don’t wait until they discolor and die, but find out the cause. It may be just lack of water. If so, supply it. A mole may have burrowed under your plant and left it suspended in his burrow. Investigate, fill the burrow, and destroy the mole, if possible. One of several root rots may have attacked your plant. Examine the root and if it shows signs of disease, dig the plant, cut out all diseased parts, disinfect the root with formaldehyde, a quarter of a cup to 3 gallons of water, leaving the root in the solution for two or three hours, and plant in fresh soil. Burn the diseased parts of the root. If the plant is very badly affected or an inexpensive one, burn it.

Leaf spot

Several kinds of leaf spot may appear, which Bordeaux will prevent. Diseased leaves should be removed and burned, if they are not too numerous, but do not cut down the leafage too much as these spots do not permanently injure the plant unless they take complete possession of it. Be sure to burn all leaves and stems in the fall. Small oval spots often come on the stems, but they are not fatal. Crowded plants and smothering with weeds are the most frequent causes of diseases of leaves and stems. These causes are easily removed.

White fungus

Often in dry weather, a white fungus-like growth will spread over the roots. This is said not to be dangerous. It was much in evidence last year. But it does affect the stems and crowns, making them look like rotted wood of a yellowish hue. Again, the only remedy is good cultivation and treating infected roots if you wish with the formaldehyde or bichloride solutions.

By G. W. PEYTON

Weeds are the most annoying thing when it comes to taking care of a lawn. It can make your yard look messy and neglected and it can disturb grass and other plants from growing well too.

Have you tried to remove them, but it’s grown back again? Well, that can happen because you didn’t remove it fully and you have left part of its roots in the ground, you are surrounded with non-landscaped areas and the wind brings the seed to your yard or your lawn is not dense enough and there are some empty spots that invite seeds to settle.

It doesn’t matter what the reasons are once you decide to get rid of it in order to make your yard attractive again. There are several things that you should try, and you will find them out if you read down this article.

Use chemicals

If you aren’t considering the option of removing the weeds manually, you are probably thinking about applying weed killer on your lawn that will get the job done in an instance. Explore the market and find the various options that exist out there. You will see that there are some not that toxic products that are safe for your environment and pets and some more toxic ones that should be your last alternative. If you decide to get a spray, watch you for the weather and make sure it’s not windy if you don’t want to kill any surrounding plants and flowers.

Pull the weed by hand

The key to getting rid of weed by hand is to remove them completely from the ground. Watch out for roots that may remain in the soil. Be careful to hold the weed to its stem and then pull gently. If the root goes deeper in the ground, use a tool that will loosen the surrounding soil and then pull again. If you are considering buying a special tool that will make the job easier for you, ask for a garden hoe or a winged weeder.

Use a landscape fabric

Have you heard about this method that prevents weed from growing in a wonderful and natural way? Ask at the nearby hardware store for this fabric that blocks the sun and prevents unwanted weeds and plants from growing. It’s great that you can cut holes around the plants that you would love to thrive and that the fabric lets water, air and other nutrients get to the soil. Think about spots that are hard to mow or any flower beds and apply the fabric that it’s a long-lasting solution to your weed problem.

Use a weed preventer

Once you have got rid of the weed it’s the best to use a weed preventer that will keep you safe for at least three months. It can come in the form of granules that you can dispense around flowers, plants, trees and bushes or it can come together with a fertilizer which will give you more benefits at once.

Implement natural methods

These methods work great for areas that are not affected that much with weed. One way is to pour boiling water over the weed which will kill it instantly. Another way is to use vinegar. Vinegar can help you with your weed problems as well, so if you decide to use it make sure you buy one with a higher strength and watch out not to apply it over other plants.

What are your picks?

Have you already tried some of these ways to get rid of weeds and did they prove to be effective? What are you going to use next in order to enjoy your weed-free lawn?

Is your lawn turning into mud after a bad winter? Is the grass always wet under your feet? Your lawn may have problems with drainage. This is something that is very common and thankfully, it is an issue that you can fix yourself without having to get professional help. There are a number of ways you can improve the drainage of your lawn. So, let’s take a look at them and what might be the best option for you.

Reasons for Bad Drainage

There are many reasons why your yard might be experiencing bad drainage. First of all, let’s see what these reasons are so that you can understand the problem.

Incorrect Automatic Sprinklers

If you have a large lawn, you probably have automatic sprinklers. This is going to give your grass the water it needs after a day of sunshine. Just as too little water can be a problem for your lawn, so can too much water. Indeed, if you have an automatic sprinkler that is giving your grass too much water, this can cause pooling. This might be how your lawn is so wet under your feet and becoming muddy. If you think this might be the root of your problem, try watering your lawn less to see if this makes a difference to the drainage.

Bad Grading

Perhaps your poorly draining lawn is not your fault or due to any of your actions. In fact, it could be caused by the builders of your home. Bad grading of your yard can mean that water slope to areas of your lawn. This is especially true if there is no water outlet present. For example, if you have low points in your backyard that are pooling with water, this might be caused by bad grading.

Compacted Soil and Thatch

If the soil underneath your lawn is compacted, this is going to mean that water drainage is slow or non-existent. We have some solutions if this is the problem. In addition, you want to ensure that there is no thatch build-up on your lawn. This can also mean that the water finds it hard to drain through.

Heavy Clay Soil

Does your yard have heavy clay soil? This is often the cause of a badly draining lawn. Rainfall and water are not able to pass through clay soil as easily. So, when it is wet, it becomes heavy and muddy. Unfortunately, this causes bad drainage problems, especially if this is what is underneath your whole lawn. One way you can improve this is by trying to mix the clay soil with manure and garden compost. This can help with drainage. Our other drainage solutions below are also going to be beneficial.

Ways to Improve Your Drainage

Everybody wants a luscious and green lawn. So, if you are having problems with your drainage, this is going to be frustrating. But the good news is that there are ways you can improve drainage. Plus, they are do not always have to cost a fortune either. So, let’s take a look at ways to improve your drainage.

Aerate the Lawn

One of the easiest ways you can improve the drainage for your lawn is through aeration. This process of spiking the grass allows air to get into the soil. This can help if your lawn gets waterlogged during bad weather. It is a simple task that you can do on your own. There are aerators that you can buy to run over the grass and this will create small holes. You can then fill them with sharp sand to help with the drainage. This can help to avoid the soil becoming compacted. If you are on a budget, you can also create holes in your lawn with a fork.

Install a Land Drain

Is your lawn bad after every storm or after a long winter? Perhaps it is time to take drastic action and install a land drain. This is a process that can allow water to move through the soil more efficiently. It will involve digging a trench so that you can insert the land drain. If your lawn is very bad, you will need to create several trenches. The purpose of the drain will be to move the water and channel it to a part of your lawn that has better soil or to a ditch. However, If you are looking for a quick solution, one which will not impinge on your Netflix, TV or online casino time, then this might not be it. It will take some time but it can be done without a professional. However, if you prefer spending your time with leisure activities, call in a professional.

Create a Ditch

Another way you can improve the drainage of your lawn is to create a ditch at the lowest point. This allows for a place for the rainwater to run off after a bad storm. It will prevent it from just sitting on top of your lawn. This is the best technique if your lawn is on a slope. Therefore, you can dig a ditch and allow for the water to gather somewhere that is away from where you are in the yard. You can add decorative stones so that the ditch looks nice or add bark chippings. In particular, bark chippings are good at absorbing moisture and it can help to provide drainage away from your lawn or existing plants.

Enjoy More Plants

When you have a waterlogged lawn, one way you can help the soil is by having more plants. Thus, choose to dig up part of your grass and choose some new plants to take its place. Not only will this look good, but it is going to help prevent your lawn from being too wet. For example, cornus alba and hydrangea macrophylla are good shrubs for wet soils. They are going to help take away some of the water from the lawn. In addition, actaea and hosta are recommended perennials too. This can be an affordable way to solve your lawn problems and grow beautiful plants at the same time. Just ensure that you do your research and find plants that can survive in wet conditions. Indeed, there are some plants that do not like a lot of water or living in the shade.

Add Grit Sand to Your Soil

Do you have clay soil? Do you think this is the reason why you are experiencing drainage problems? Instead of digging up your whole yard and replacing the soil, you can add grit sand to it. This is going to help with the drainage and ensure that water can run through the soil. This might take a lot of work if you have grass. But it can be worth it if it provides a long-term solution to your drainage problems.

How to Lay New Turf

If your drainage issues were really bad, you may have to lay new turf down after you have fixed the problem. This is something that you can do by yourself. All you need is a few tools and materials to get started.

Prepare the Area

First of all, start by removing any old turf and preparing the area for a new lawn. This is going to include leveling out the ground, as well as removing any debris or stones. You can also throw on some topsoil in order to make the ground better for your grass and to level it out. You can do this with a rake. You then want to compress the ground and ensure that it is firm for laying the turf.

Lay the Turf

Now it is time to lay your rolls of turf. This is the fun part! Take your rolls and lay them out flat onto the soil. It is best to overlap the edges slightly so that you can get an even lawn. You can easily cut off any turf that you do not need. This can be done simply with a spade. Make sure that all of your turf is flat and making contact with the soil. This is going to ensure that it grows properly.

Water Your New Lawn

It is going to be important to keep watering your new turf on a regular basis. You should do this every day for several weeks. This is going to allow the turf to grow and establish itself. In particular, if there is hot weather, ensure the lawn is always moist so that it does not dry out and die.

Wait Until It is 3cm in Height

Once you have laid your turf and waited a few weeks, you are going to be eager to mow the lawn for the first time. The best time to do this is when the grass is at least 3cm high. This is going to ensure that it has had enough time to establish itself. Then you can mow the lawn and enjoy having fresh green grass with better drainage.

Is your lawn looking patchy after the hot summer months? Would you like to improve the health of your grass? The best thing you can do for a high-quality lawn is to reseed. This is going to allow you to enjoy a superior lawn that is the best in the neighborhood. You can cover bare spots or simply make your grass look greener. But when is the best time to reseed? Let’s take a look.

Start in the Fall

Many people not au fait with gardening assume that the best time to reseed their lawn is during the summer. This is due to the warmer temperatures. However, it is actually going to be best to start this process during the early fall months. The temperature of the soil is still warm for germination and there is also a slightly cooler air temperature. This is going to allow the growth of the seeds.

Another reason to consider fall is that there are fewer weeds around. They act as competition for grass seeds that are trying to grow during the summer. But you are going to find fewer weeds during the fall.

Things to Do Prior to Reseeding

The early fall is the time of the year when you want to spend more time in the house. The nights are getting longer and all you want to do is relax in the evenings. Fall is the time of year when families tend to start spending more time together at home. For example, with the increased time at home, some people like to watch television, some prefer streaming movies from Netflix while others enjoy playing at an online casino. Others may be drawing up Christmas gift lists while still others take the time to hibernate, much like their grizzly bear cousins. But in the main, the Fall is a time for tidying up the garden and closing everything down for the onset of winter.

Back to the gardening, there are some tasks you will have to do first if you want your lawn to look good over the winter. Before you reseed, make sure that you mow your lawn. In particular, you want the grass very short around where you are going to reseed. This is going to ensure that the seeds are going to get enough sunlight and will not be shaded. It will avoid any competition. In addition, remove any debris and grass clippings from the area. All of this is going to help make reseeds a lot easier and more successful. Then you are going to be ready to begin the process of reseeding your lawn to make it look attractive.

How to Reseed Your Lawn

In order to reseed your lawn, first, you have to prepare the area. In other words, you need to get rid of any weeds that are existing on your grass. You want to get rid of the roots so that they do not come back. Again, this is about reducing the competition for the grass seeds and ensuring they are ready to grow. Then in the spots, you want to reseed, you can sprinkle some new soil to create the perfect place for grass seeds to grow. All that is left is to scatter your grass seeds evenly over the area. A lot of people think that the more grass seed they use, the thicker their grass will be. This is not necessarily true. Sprinkle a modest about of seeds of the area.

Once your grass seeds are on the soil, you will want to water them. The soil should be damp for growth and this is something that you will have to do every day. This might be more than once a day, depending on where you live and how much sunshine there is. The soil always has to be moist. In order for the seeds to grow, you may have to cover them up with a sheet. This is going to stop birds from coming into your yard and snacking on them. It saves all of your hard work going to waste.

What is Overseeding a Lawn?

When we are talking about reseeding a lawn, we are referring to areas where it has died or become patchy. It is usually in a specific area rather than everywhere over your lawn. You are just repairing the damage caused by dogs, children or the weather. But you may be wondering what is meant when someone says they are ‘overseeding’. Essentially, this is something that you can also to do improve the appearance of your lawn. But it normally covers a larger area on established grass.

Overseeding your lawn has a lot of benefits. For example, if you are having a problem with a bare lawn or thin grass, overseeding can allow your yard to thicken out. In other words, it can look thick and luscious when the seeds have grown. Overseeding involves scattering new seeds among your already established lawn. In addition, overseeding can also make your grass appear greener and reduce weeds.

Just like reseeding, this process is best done during the early fall months. This will allow germination to take place, which can happen in as little as seven days. Depending on the conditions, germination can take 21 days. If the temperature in your area is 13 degrees Celsius or above, this is going to allow the seeds to germinate. The preparation and process are the same as reseeding and it is something everybody has the ability to do.

Reseeding Versus Turfing

If you are not happy with your lawn and how it looks, you have two options. You can reseed your lawn or you can choose to purchase new turf. Both are likely to achieve the same outcome but there are some factors that are going to dictate the best option for you.

Let’s start by thinking about the cost. The ground preparation that is involved in reseeding and turfing is going to be the same. So, you are going to spend the same amount of money, to begin with. But there will be a difference when it comes to the rest of the materials. Namely, it is going to cost you more money to purchase new turf. You will normally pay per square meter and the price will vary depending on the type of grass you want and its quality. If you have a large backyard, this could end up being very costly to lay the turf. On the other hand, grass seed is relatively inexpensive. You can cover a large area at half of the price. There are different types of grass seeds so this can change your budget slightly. But it is a more economical way to achieve a fantastic lawn.

One of the factors you will really want to consider is time. Ask yourself; how long do you want to wait to see results? How quickly do I want to use my lawn again? If you are someone that is patient and is willing to wait for an attractive lawn, reseeding is going to be fine for you. It takes a couple of weeks for the grass to begin to grow. But it can be a whole six months to one year before you should walk on these areas. Thus, you will need to keep your pets and children away from the reseeded areas until they are established and strong. This is totally different from when you lay turf. This turf has been specially grown by a professional for 12 months at least. It has been nurtured and it is very healthy. In other words, it is ready to establish on your lawn within three to six weeks. You will be able to use your backyard after this time since the professional has already done all of the hard work for you.

What’s more, reseeding has to be done in early Fall. The seeds are not going to germinate throughout the winter due to the temperature changes. This can restrict when you have to restrict your lawn. But the great thing about turf is that it can be done at any time of the year. As long as the soil is not frozen, your backyard is ready for turf to establish itself. So, if a problem happens during the other seasons, you can easily fix it and not have to wait until the Fall.

Therefore, if you are looking for a quick solution that allows you to fix your lawn and use it quickly, turfing is going to be the best option for you. But you will have to be prepared to pay more money. However, if you want to be more economical and you have a larger lawn, reseeding can be preferred. While it can take a whole year until your lawn is established and strong, it can be rewarding to see the process. Plus, if you only have small areas that you want to fix, using grass seeds can be all you need.

Is A Robotic Lawn Mower Right For My Backyard?

Most of us dread mowing the lawn during the summer. The mere thought of pushing your gas-powered across the yard under the sticky, hot weather every other week is exhausting. Also, if your weekdays are always loaded with work, you’d rather relax and unwind over the weekend than trim grass. But it’s a quintessential yard work that you can’t keep on ignoring. 

Fortunately, there’s a smart way to go about this. A robotic lawn mower can take away the pain, time, and hassle that comes with lawn care. This battery-operated machine is a smarter and quieter option. It can learn the ins and outs of your backyard and cut grass quickly to the exact height on your preferred schedule. 

But are robot lawn mowers worth it? Do they live up to the hype? Keep on reading to find out if it truly is the answer to your summer dilemma.

What Are Robotic Lawn Mowers 

It’s pretty tiring to mow your lawn for hours. Meanwhile, paying a professional to keep your yard in tip-top shape can put a dent in your wallet. Hence, it’s quite enticing to invest in a robot mower to do the painstaking task for you. 

Robot lawn mowers are available in various shapes and sizes. Setting up and programming these devices is relatively easy. They are also very quiet in comparison to traditional lawn mowers since they run using rechargeable battery packs. That means you’ll be able to let your robot do its job and not worry about disturbing your neighbors. 

How Do They Work?

Similar to robovacs, a robotic lawn mower will begin its initial cycle by mapping out your backyard and works through perimeter wire. This will ensure that the robot stays only on your lawn. Once done mapping, it will return to the base station and wait for its real first mowing job.

Using a power button or a mobile phone app, you prompt your robot to maneuver around your backyard, trimming grass. It will be able to stay within the path it mapped out and avoid obstacles with the help of its sensors and guided by the perimeter wire. 

Most robotic mowers have a floating deck design, allowing you to adjust their cutting height. Some units come with either a single blade or multiple blades while some have a spinning disc configured with razor blades. The blades will chop the grass very finely so that when it rains or you water your lawn, it seeps into the soil. Usually, the cutting width ranges from seven inches to about two feet, depending on your mower’s size.

However, all these conveniences and high-tech abilities do not come cheap. And if you want more features such as Wi-Fi or Bluetooth connectivity, anti-theft sensors, flexible scheduling, and mobile app, get ready to pay even more. On top of that, units for larger yards with steep grades and the ability to avoid obstructions like trees and flower beds have a higher price tag.

So before making any purchase, it’s a good idea to do your research first and learn more about the units you’re eyeing.

What Are Robot Mowers Good At?

Your yard will look much better

In comparison to a traditional mower, a robotic lawn mower is designed to trim grass more frequently. It will cut the grass in small lengths with the help of its sharp blades. This means that the grass will be cut instead of knocking the top off as most rotary lawn mowers do. Also, it does not collect clippings. Instead, it will mulch them by returning the clippings to your lawn, giving the growing grass nutrients. Therefore, the grass will not experience much stress, enabling it to remain much greener and healthier. 

You never have to mow the lawn yourself

One of the main reasons homeowners opt for a robotic lawn mower is the convenience it offers. With it, you don’t have to cut the grass of your garden weekly throughout the growing season. If you have a busy life and you have small kids, you will not have time to do this every weekend. Once you’re done with the initial setup of your robot, you’ll be satisfied watching it as it works its way around your yard. 

Safer to use

Their safety features far exceed those of the conventional models. The blades they use to cut the grass are much smaller and lower-powered. What’s more, you don’t have to interact with the blades while your robot mower is operating. Additionally, the lift and tilt sensors will shut down the blades instantly when you intentionally or accidentally lift your unit.

According to manufacturers, no one has been rushed to the emergency room from using a robot lawn mower. On the other hand, traditional lawn mowers have a poor safety record. In fact, in the US alone, there are more than 80,000 lawn mower-related injuries recorded every year.

Works out cheaper in the long run

The initial cost of robot law mowers is often higher than traditional mowers. However, they can work out cheaper over time because of lesser maintenance requirements and lower operating costs. If you hire a gardener to trim the grass in your yard, the payback time is usually as little as 1 year. 

Things To Consider Before Purchasing A Robot Lawn Mower

Over the last few years, we’ve seen significant growth in the robot mowers market. You can expect it to grow steadily as manufacturers improve their technology. 

These smart devices are innovating constantly and at a rapid pace and new models are being integrated with new and upgraded features. Nevertheless, there are key features that you need to consider before deciding on which best robotic lawn mower is suitable for you and your garden’s needs.

Law and battery size

One of the most crucial factors that will affect your decision is the size and shape of your lawn. A lot of entry-level units have smaller battery packs designed to handle small to medium-sized gardens. Usually, they can trip up to 400 square meters. On the other hand, larger robots can take care of lawns with a size of up to 3000 square meters or even more. 

If you have a massive lawn, it will require a unit with larger batteries combined with a more powerful motor. Husqvarna has a range of Autopower robotic mowers specifically made for those looking for a top-notch automatic lawn mower that is worth checking out.

A mower with larger cutting blades is also a good idea along with more advanced software. But keep in mind that this will have a higher price tag in comparison to an entry-level model.

The inclination slope the robotic lawn mower can handle

How powerful the motor of a robot is will impact its speed and the amount of area it can manage. If your garden has steeper gradients, it is advisable to opt for a model with a powerful motor. Although entry-level units can handle very steep slopes, they don’t work well in hilly gardens.

If your lawn is quite steep, determine its slope first before buying one to make sure you get a model that can handle it. 

Controls

The majority of robot mowers feature a control panel that lets you adjust variables, including cutting hours and days. You can even adjust the height of their blades as well. Meanwhile, more high-tech units come with smart features and Wi-Fi connectivity, allowing you to control and monitor your robot via your smart gadget. 

Furthermore, you can find some models equipped with weather sensors. That means they have the ability to avoid trimming grass in wet or rainy conditions. There are even those that will notify you when they are stuck somewhere in your garden. Keep in mind that cheaper models have fewer features. Nonetheless, they can still execute the task at hand decently.

Safety features

Every robotic lawn mower has several safety features. These prevent people and pets from getting injured and unexpected items from getting damaged while the robot is at work. You can also program these devices to stop when they accidentally hit an obstruction. Usually, they will back up, turn, and move away from it. 

But these safety features differ from one model to the next and among manufacturers. So make sure to look at this more in detail.

Security features

When on the market for an automatic robot mower, it’s also vital to consider its security features. Almost all of them allow you to set a PIN code lock and a lot come with alarm features. Premium and newer units even come with a GPS tracker. 

If your yard is not secure and intruders can easily access it, these features are especially crucial. Most manufacturers can even blacklist your robot if it has been stolen, making it impossible for the thief to use it.

Although surrounding your home with
a lush, beautiful lawn may be something you dream of each spring as the warm
weather arrives, you may find it takes a great deal of effort to maintain if
you don’t have the right type of seed, watering techniques, or nutrient
schedule. There are distinct differences in the requirements of cool grasses
and warm grasses, and some types of grasses love heat while others burn or die
back in higher temperature areas. The list below can assist you in choosing the
right type of regional grass seeds to help you grow the best lawn for the
longest time your season allows.

Northeast Area

The Northeast has high humidity,
cold winters, and cool summers which can challenge many types of plants,
including lawn grasses. For the best-looking lawns with the greenest blades,
choose a seed that thrives in cool temperatures.

The most popular choice of grass seed that can survive the harsh cold and fierce northern winters is the Kentucky bluegrass. The fine-textured blades are rooted in a system of shallow tendrils that spread aggressively but can survive the long cold winters of the northeast area. Ryegrass is also popular among northern growers because of its cold tolerance and ability to thrive in the heat.

Southeast Area

The Southeast is known for its high
humidity and hot summers because much of the area borders the Atlantic
seaboard. Look for warm-season grass seeds that can tolerate the high heat,
salty air, and summer droughts.

Bermuda grass seed is an aggressive spreading seed that provides a dark, thick green lawn. A perfect companion to the Bermuda seed is the ryegrass which can be used to overseed for lovely green grass during the winter when the Bermuda grasses go into hibernation and turn brown. When the weather turns warm again, the ryegrass dies back, and Bermuda suddenly springs back to life.

Midwest Area

The Midwest is the heartland of America with varying levels of humidity and a cool growing season. With the intense fluctuations throughout the region, Ohio grass needs more irrigation than other grasses in other regions do.

Bluegrass, fescues, and ryegrasses
are the stars of the region because of their ability to tolerate the Midwestern
bright sun while enduring the cool areas as well. Using disease and insect
resistant seeds are important in the Midwest and finding a variety of seed that
returns lush and green after a fierce winter can be difficult. However, if you
are willing to water your grass often, the ryegrass can give you a lovely lawn
year after year.

Deep South Area

The Deep South includes the Gulf
Coast region of the United States where the humidity is high, and the heat is
too. Ranging between areas of extreme drought, heavy summer storms, and blazing
hot sun, the grass seed for this area needs to be tolerant and durable.

Homeowners in the Deep South look
for low-maintenance grass seeds that can resist the pests and diseases often
rampant in the area. Since the Gulf Coast features heavy salt air, the grass
must be durable and tolerant. Bahia grass and centipede have proven themselves
with an ability to be drought resistant while still staying a lovely green year
around. Both varieties do require additional water for long life.

Pacific Northwest Area

Cool and arid, the Pacific Northwest
region allows cool grasses to thrive, but the often-wet climate can encourage
diseases and pests to flourish in area lawns. Much of the inland areas require
additional irrigation to keep the grasses luxuriant and green.

In the northern coastal areas, tall
fescues and bluegrasses are chosen for their ability to resist the salty air,
cool temperatures, and high humidity. Further inland, ryegrasses are selected
because of their resistance to lawn pests, mold, and diseases.

Southwest Area

Hot blasts of air within the
Southwest’s arid area present a challenge for almost every type of grass. With
high temperatures, alkaline soil, harsh sunlight, and varying elevations, the
only thing consistent about this region is the warmth.

With enough water, Bermuda grass can
thrive in the area, though it will require overseeding for winter-green lawns.
Fescue is sometimes considered a good match in the Southwest, but it requires
twice as much water and isn’t good in heat saturated areas.

Use the list of areas above to find the right grass seed for
your region. You can have a lush, beautiful lawn no matter where you live.

Lawn care is an essential part of responsible home maintenance. Not only is being attentive to your grass’s needs crucial to its long-term health, but it’s also highly conducive to accentuating the beauty of your home. When people walk by your residence, the condition of your lawn is among the first things they notice, so if you’re interested in making a favorable first impression, lawn care should not be regarded as an afterthought. Homeowners who strive to keep their lawns clean, healthy and looking their best should consider the following pointers.

Limit Lawn Clutter

Even if your lawn is
meticulously maintained, its healthy appearance can be adversely impacted by the presence of clutter. Lawn-based clutter is particularly common in
homes with small children. Kids tend to leave messes wherever they go, and
lawns are hardly an exception. In addition to encouraging your family members
to pick up after themselves, make a point of thoroughly scanning your lawn for
clutter before mowing. Certain objects can present safety hazards if they find
their way into a mower, so take care to be as eagle-eyed as possible when
carrying out these cleanups.  

Excessive foot traffic
can lead to patchiness, discoloration and uneven growth on certain types of
grass. If your lawn is vulnerable to the ravages of foot traffic, make a point
of limiting direct contact with the grass and encourage other members of your
household to heed your example. However, as any parent can attest, this can
sometimes prove challenging for households with small children. While there’s
no way to keep little kids off the grass entirely, you can help minimize the
amount of time they spend on it by creating a designated outdoor play area for
them. Not only will this provide your little ones with a clearly-defined play
space, it’s also likely to diminish the appeal of running around on the lawn in
their eyes.     

Mow as Needed

Consistent mowing is one of the tenets of good lawn care.
However, it’s important to note that most lawns are mowed far more often than
they need to be. Additionally, many people opt to keep their mowers on the
lowest possible setting. While wanting to keep your lawn nice and short is
certainly understandable, excessive shortness leaves the grass blades
vulnerable to the elements and ensures that they’re ill-equipped to retain
water and assorted nutrients. With this in mind, look up the ideal length for
your type of grass and adjust your mower settings accordingly.

Although many homeowners mow their lawns on a set schedule, this often leads to over-mowing. For example, just because you’ve gotten into the groove of mowing once a week doesn’t mean that your lawn actually needs you to do so. During its prime growing season, your lawn may need to be mowed once or twice a week, but outside of this period, you may only need to get out the mower once or twice a month. So even if it’s a designated mowing day, there’s no need to fire up the mower if the grass is already an acceptable length.    

Fertilize Regularly  

Fertilization is a great way to provide your lawn with essential nourishment all year long. Additionally, depending on the type of grass you have, you may only need to perform this task once a year. If this isn’t a chore you have much experience with, reach out to a professional lawn fertilization service. The right company will help you determine the best type of fertilizer for your grass and work with you to create the perfect fertilization schedule. If your grass is delicate or temperamental, look for a company that offers custom lawn fertilization plans.   

Lawn care should be among the foremost maintenance priorities for any responsible homeowner. A vibrant, well-kept lawn can add character to your home and help accentuate its aesthetic strong points. On the flip side, a lawn that’s patchy, discolored or overgrown can put a noticeable damper on an otherwise lovely residence. Fortunately, tending to your lawn doesn’t have to eat up a great deal of time or money. Putting the previously discussed tips to good use can prove invaluable in your efforts to preserve the health of your grass.