Getting your home ready for winter involves much more than just turning up the thermostat. It’s all about optimising efficiency, protecting your home and making sure that your family stays both safe and well during the season.
Whilst modern homes are often designed for superior insulation, they still need specific care to keep them maintained. This is essential for busy family households, as managing both airflow and condensation can be tricky.
Setting aside some time to prepare your family home for the winter season can save you money and prevent a major headache when the cold weather truly bites.
Basic heating system tweaks
There are a few crucial steps you should take to help maintain peak energy efficiency in your home during colder months.
These include bleeding your radiators to remove any trapped air and allow for better hot water circulation, adopting modern features like smart thermostats and automatic heat pump schedules, and checking your draught-proofing under external doors and around window frames.
Families moving into highly insulated new build homes should still make sure that their systems are correctly balanced. This helps secure the most cost-effective warmth, which is essential given rising energy costs.
Fight the damp
In sealed spaces like bathrooms without windows, you must also address condensation.
Damp, mould and mildew are still widespread in modern family homes, but there are a few ways to mitigate these issues. It’s worth using trickle vents and kitchen and bathroom extractor fans as intended.
The key to preventing moisture buildup is ventilation. This is essential when you’re forced to dry clothes indoors during the winter. It’s also worth learning how to spot the early signs of mould and damp before they pose a significant health concern.
Protect external plumbing and guttering
There are some simple but vital exterior maintenance jobs that can prevent serious property damage in winter.
Clearing gutters and downpipes helps you to avoid blockages that cause damp walls. If you can reach them, it’s also worth insulating vulnerable outside taps or pipes in garages, basements and utility rooms.
These measures can dramatically reduce the risk of frozen or burst pipes once the temperature drops, which can be both costly and time-consuming to deal with.
Check alarms and emergency procedures
Don’t underestimate the importance of checking and testing all carbon monoxide and smoke alarms at the start of the winter season. This is especially important if you have a log burning stove or open fire.
Knowing the location of your home’s main water stopcock and fuse box is also critical for taking quick action during a power outage or plumbing crisis.
While power loss is unusual in the UK, it’s still worth preparing in advance with a small home emergency kit. This should include a torch, bottles of water, warm blankets, a first-aid kit and long-life snacks.
How do you prepare your family home for the winter season?
Morel mushrooms are highly sought-after, valued for their nutty, earthy flavor and unique texture.
The fruiting bodies of species in the Morchella genus appear in spring and are typically found growing wild in forested areas throughout the Northern Hemisphere.
It’s no surprise that gardeners and fungi enthusiasts alike have wondered if these mushrooms can be cultivated intentionally. The answer is yes, but they can be very challenging to grow.
Morels are very finicky about moisture, temperature, and the substrate they grow in, requiring specific environmental conditions. For most growers, results are unpredictable.
Still, with persistence and careful planning, it is possible to grow morels at home.
In this guide, we’ll cover what morels are, the conditions they need to grow, and how to prepare a growing area to improve your chances of a successful harvest.
Here’s what we’ll go over:
True morels are the edible, spore-bearing fruiting structures of fungi in the Morchella genus.
These mushrooms are typically between two and six inches tall, with hollow, cream-colored stalks called stipes, topped by deeply ridged, pitted caps known as ascocarps.
Honestly, they look like a weird combo of honeycomb, coral, and brains, all on a stick.
These fruiting bodies develop in spring from an underground mycelium, or root-like network of filamentous hyphae that connect to tree roots, rotting plant matter, and soil.
The mycelium anchors the mushroom, while the hyphae feed it.
There are more than 70 recognized species in the Morchella genus, with a native range centered in the Mediterranean region.
Today, morels are widely distributed across temperate regions of Europe, Asia, and North America.
Individual species have specific endemic and provincial distributions, and often have strong ecological associations with particular types of trees.
Species identification is tricky, as morels vary significantly in appearance even within the same species.
Standard dichotomous keys are often unreliable, so identification typically involves comparing multiple traits to known species profiles.
In addition, there are a number of different mushrooms known as “false morels” which can be toxic or deadly if eaten.
Why settle for a stuffy dining room when you can host Friendsgiving under the open sky? This year, I took to the garden, complete with cozy vibes, fall bulbs, and a few picture-worthy Friendsgiving ideas. Whether you’ve got a big backyard or a small patio, here’s how to turn your outdoor space into a magical fall gathering.
In every garden space I’ve had the pleasure of calling home, I always prioritize an area for entertaining. Some of my favourite memories are those long, lazy afternoons and twinkle-lit evenings spent outside, surrounded by greenery, laughter, and the people I love.
When I first moved into this house, I had a very specific dream: a big table right in the middle of the lawn, set for an outdoor dinner for 12. I don’t have a dining room in the house so the big dinners move outside. And garden-side entertaining is magical.
Fast-forward to now. The deck is done, the veggie garden is thriving, and Lola (my stylish, vintage trailer sidekick!) is tucked into her corner like she was always meant to be there. It finally felt like the perfect time to throw a little garden gathering.
Friendsgiving with my chosen family seemed like the perfect opportunity to get everyone together and enjoy the abundance and beauty of the fall garden.
This year, I wanted to switch things up and reflect not just on what we’re thankful for now, but also on the gifts we can give our future selves. I planned a little magic for my garden table, and perhaps it will inspire you to create your own unforgettable evening with these garden-themed Friendsgiving ideas.
This post will cover…
Having a gift/activity for your guests is a great way to add to the event.
Sponsored: This post is sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu, who graciously provided the bulbs we used to write our intentions and gift to our future selves. Flowerbulb.eu aims to educate those on the beauty and joy of flower bulbs. Go to Flowerbulb.eu for inspiration and education!
Friendsgiving Décor in the Garden
When I designed the garden, I always planned that the lawn would become an outdoor dining area for the bigger events. I combined three folding beer garden tables to make one square table big enough for 12, with benches around so 4 people could sit on each side.
The invites were clear that it would be an outdoor dining event and to dress accordingly. And, of course, that’s part of the fun! Everyone dressed stylishly warm in wool and velvet fabrics, brightened by the rich colours of fall. I also provided blankets for everyone on the bench seating to ensure the guests did not get chilly.
Even in the summer, blankets are appreciated for outdoor hosting.
Lights are the number one way to set ambience. Outdoor string lights with Edison bulbs are strung from the deck to the large hazelnut tree, so they light up the table and Lola. The table lighting was simple as well: an array of candles to set the mood.
Lola, my vintage trailer, was a great backdrop.
To set the table, I layered tablecloths. Each setting had different vintage, colourful plates. All together, it perfectly matched the vibrancy and eclectic nature of the garden.
Layering mismatched patterned tablecloths is a beautiful way to create depth and texture.
On the table, I set out flowers freshly harvested from my cutting garden, In this season it is filled with zinnias and sunflowers, but the garden gives flowers from early spring in succession from the bulbs I planted: tulips first, then ranunculus. Next summer, I plan to include dahlias for a huge selection of flowers through to the fall.
There are usually some long-lasting flowers you can trim from your garden in the fall, like these zinnia.
I filled in the center of the table with other items harvested from my garden: acorn squash, rosemary sprigs, and dried hydrangeas. Truly celebrating the abundance that can come from the garden.
Finally, I added pretty 1-litre Mason jars filled with tulip bulbs. These make for cute and useful gifts that each guest can take home. These also became an activity later in the night.
A Gift for Your Future Self
At all my dinners, I like to host an activity to bring everyone together and share my gratitude for friendship. For Friendsgiving this year, my theme was “A Gift to Your Future Self.” When we finished the main course, I thanked everyone for being part of my family and then explained the reason there were jars of tulip bulbs on the table.
This gift was how we could collectively explore appreciation for a period of winter’s rest and acknowledgement of our future selves. Giving fall planting flower bulbs is the example.
I used fabric rather than the metal snap lids to allow air flow for the bulbs.
If you plant fall bulbs now, such as tulips, daffodils, crocus, and other showstoppers, they bloom in the early days of spring. Exactly when you need a reminder that winter does, in fact, end in a new season, spring. This is a very personal concept for me, and one that I experienced in full colour this past year.
When I first moved into the house, it was fall. I planted a lawn full of fall bulbs that brought me so much joy in the following spring when I didn’t have any other plants or flowers yet. Since I hadn’t been able to do any garden work yet, having those bulbs come up in the spring was a really lovely gift and kick-started my year of gardening ahead.
I loved it so much, I planted more tulip bulbs last fall so I could have even more flowers. I harvested so many tulips to use as bouquets, thanking past me for this abundance and feeling such joy that I gave this small gift to myself.
At Friendsgiving, I wanted to pass on this abundance and joyful feeling so that my loved ones could nourish themselves over winter.
Ensure your guests know how to plant and use the bulbs by cutting up the planting instructions from the package and including them in the jars.
Every couple or family got a jar of tulip bulbs alongside some pieces of paper. I encouraged everyone to write an intention and what they hoped spring would bring them. What gift would you love to receive in the spring that you’re nourishing now?
Once written down, we folded the pieces of paper and put them in the jar. When they bring the bulbs home, they can plant the paper with the bulbs. After a little winter rest, the flowers will grow in the spring alongside your intentions. And you’ll remember the gift you had given yourself.
Friendsgiving Foodie Feast
In the center of my vegetable garden beds is the Gardener’s Table. Like a Chef’s table, it is set for just two people to enjoy an intimate meal.
It’s framed with a U-shaped vegetable garden and a bean arch. I removed the two chairs for this party and tossed a tablecloth over top of the table to serve wine and a cranberry-themed cheeseboard. After dinner, I set dessert on that table as well. It kept everyone moving around the garden for the different courses.
The cheeseboard featured cranberry chevre, brie, olive tapenade, burrata with cranberry balsamic, cranberry hazelnut crackers, and dried dates.
For the main course, I cooked a turkey dinner. My friend, who happens to be an amazing chef, also cooked Chinese dumplings for everyone, which we enjoyed as a second course.
Keep the table clear and the food warm by serving the food inside the house.
For dessert, I served hyper-realistic fall-themed cakes that looked like pumpkins, green apples, acorns, and mushrooms. They were absolutely stunning but 100% cake, so no worries about the mushroom being poisonous (it was pistachio raspberry-flavoured cake and mousse. Yum!). I got the cakes from a local bakery, making things simple for me and enjoyable for my guests.
What you serve at your Friendsgiving is personal and doesn’t have the follow the Thanksgiving norms. Collaborate to lessen the stress of doing it all yourself, and you can enjoy what your friends love to cook as well.
The desserts featured realistic-looking apples, pumpkins, mushrooms, and acorns.
The Joy of a Thanksgiving Garden Party
Having friends over for any kind of celebration is a way to share your life with them. This Thanksgiving garden party was a way to share something meaningful to me: planting fall bulbs and the abundance they can provide next spring. I knew how much joy it gave me, and I wanted to pass that feeling and intention to the people who are important to me.
Bringing them together, cooking them dinner, and gifting them these bulbs also allowed me to feel the abundance of their friendship. It is my hope that by passing on the gift of tulip bulbs to them, they’ll be reminded that they’re special to me.
And better yet, inspire the intentions and dreams they’ve made this fall to come true next spring.
I hope you found some inspiration for garden-themed Friendsgiving décor, and most importantly, feel inspired to set your own intentions this fall. Be sure to check out Flowerbulb.eu for more bulb inspiration and tips!
More Ways to Celebrate the Season
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
We’ve entered the season when our gardens are starting to gradually slow down in preparation for a restful winter. We gardeners, however, can’t help but keep on pruning, planting, and planning. One project to add to your list of late-fall chores to do in the garden: plant a fruit tree.
And if you do, consider going with a dormant bare-root fruit tree. Planting bare-root trees saves not only money (it’s always cheaper to buy bare-root over container-grown), but also your back from having to lug around heavy nursery pots.
Here are my tips for planting bare-root fruit trees:
When choosing which bare-root fruit tree to buy, look for ones that are shorter and with thicker trunks. Taller trees with thinner trunks might not be as hardy and stable in the ground. After planting, your tree’s canopy should be pruned anyway to even out the weight so that your tree’s top (canopy) is in proportion to its smaller bottom (roots).
2. Don’t procrastinate about planting.
Bare-root fruit trees are—surprise, surprise—bare, so that means no soil protects the delicate roots. What this also means is that the exposed roots can dry out quickly. The solution? Plant your tree as soon as you get it home. The other option is to “heel it in” which means that you bury the roots in some sort of moist material for a short time until you can plant it. Some bare-root plants come in plastic packaging with moist sawdust already around the roots, which can help protect the roots and give you a little more time before planting.
3. Soak and soak some more.
Above: Fuyu persimmons are the best-selling fruit tree at Dave Wilson Nursery, which sells it in bare-root form.
Before planting your bare-root tree, carefully untangle any roots and soak in water for at least two hours to rehydrate it. Once that is complete, mix organic compost into to your native soil for in-ground planting. No fertilizer is needed upon planting. For containers, look for organic potting soil without fertilizers because harsh chemicals could harm young trees.
4. Measure the roots.
Many gardeners wonder how to plant a tree that has only dangly roots and no defined root ball. Well, start by digging a hole two to three times as wide as the roots and only as deep as the longest root. Too deep of a hole and the soil and tree will settle too much. Mound up a bit of soil in the hole and spread out the roots then back fill and gently press down the soil to remove any air pockets. Pro tip: Make sure the graft union (if present) stays above the final soil level.
5. Mulch generously.
After planting and watering deeply, apply a thick layer of mulch around your tree. Mulch will help maintain even moisture and help prevent weeds. But don’t crowd the trunk with mulch (mulch volcanos lead to excess moisture on the bark, which can lead to rot).
It’s normal to want to immediately reap the fruits of your labor, but recognize that bare-root fruit trees can be slower to produce at first as the roots get established. Be patient and you will be rewarded: some even say bare-root trees end up growing larger than their container counterparts. Expect at least a year or two before getting a harvest. Then enjoy!
All garden journeys start somewhere. In today’s day and age some gardeners might begin from the information and inspiration they gain online, but many will still start from the experience of growing up with a family member’s garden. That was exactly the case for Laura Axel in England. Laura’s mom created abundant gardens for her children to grow in, which also allowed her to easily pass down her passion for plants. Now that all her children are grown, Laura’s mom continues to tend a luscious landscape that Laura still finds joy and inspiration in whenever she visits.
In the tiny seaside town of Leigh-on-Sea, Essex, my mum has gardened for some 60-plus years. My brother, sisters, and I grew up not far from her current house and remember fondly a family home of about an acre that had an informal grass lawn for tennis, a summer house for us four children to play in, a swing set, and lots of trees to climb. A huge vegetable garden provided us with a myriad of produce—rhubarb, black currants, pole beans, strawberries, raspberries, and cabbages, to name a few. There was a rose garden in the front, and a long driveway lined with a dozen horse chestnuts that led to a double car garage. It was a great place to grow up.
It’s no wonder that along the way my mum shared with us her love of gardening. All four of us went on to garden in some form or another after leaving Leigh-on-Sea. My mum is now in her 91st year and still enjoys her garden, tinkering alongside a great garden helper that often considers a cup of tea as important as pruning the eucalyptus tree. Here are some photos of Mum’s current garden of 20-plus years.
Laura’s mom planted a dense tapestry of textural beauty, in a classic English garden fashion. A compact white agapanthus, dusty miller (Centaurea cineraria, Zones 8–10 or as an annual) and a mix of seed heads stand out among larger foliage shapes in the background.
An English garden is not complete without a water feature, and in smaller spaces a tiny pond will instantly become a fabulous focal point. Even with dense greenery inside and all around this small structure, it still manages to draw the eye.
Laura’s mom no longer has an expansive landscape to divide into distinct garden spaces, but she still manages to pack plants and garden whimsy into every available crevice. Pots of various sizes and a sprinkling of garden art continue the interest on her patio.
While the garden has the abundance of the English cottage garden style, there are also color and plant selections that give it a Mediterranean vibe. Plumes of grass give the garden tons of movement and even more textural interest, while complementing the gravel path that cuts through the middle of the space.
More grass and lush greenery collide in this shadier corner of the garden. Laura’s mom must have an incredible collection of antiques, as even her piles of pots and glassware are interesting elements in her garden.
What an ingenious way to plant succulents in a metal hanging basket! The coconut coir liners we traditionally see in these kind of planters would retain far too much water for succulents, but broken terra-cotta pieces will keep the substrate in place while keeping everything well-draining. The bright purple clematis in the background is just a gorgeous companion.
Various shades of terra-cotta, clay, and brick bring a level of warmth to this garden that you might associate more with Spain and Italy than with England. It’s another fantastic example of the way Laura’s mom has perfectly fused English and Mediterranean garden designs.
Thank you so much for sharing your mom’s gorgeous garden with us, Laura! It’s easy to see why you and your siblings have also caught the gardening bug; it would be hard to resist the magic of plants when surrounded by abundance like this in your childhood.
Who inspired you to get into gardening? Do you come from a long line of gardeners, or did a close friend introduce you to the hobby later in life? Let us know in the comments where your garden journey began, or consider sending photos of the garden that inspires you (with permission of course) to Garden Photo of the Day. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.
We want to see YOUR garden!
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
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That sad, barren patch beneath your tree doesn’t have to stay a garden wasteland! While most flowers throw tantrums without full sun, I’ve discovered 9 spectacular bloomers that actually thrive in those challenging spots.
Forget what you’ve heard about shade areas being plant dead zones. These resilient beauties will transform that neglected space into the most enchanting part of your garden!
Why Most Gardeners Fail Under Trees (And How You Won’t)
Let’s face it. Tree canopies create the botanical equivalent of an obstacle course. They block sunlight, steal nutrients, and hog water like teenagers in a summer shower.
Did you know that soil under mature trees can be up to 30% drier than exposed garden areas? No wonder most plants wave the white flag!
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But here’s the game-changer for your shaded spots: selecting flowers that evolved specifically to flourish in woodland conditions.
These shade specialists not only survive, but thrive. They celebrate those cool, dappled conditions that would make sun-lovers wither away.
9 Shade Superstars That Will Transform Your Tree Canopy
1. Hosta – The Shade Garden Royalty
Hostas are the divas of shade gardens, but without the attitude problem. Their lush, architectural foliage comes in over 3,000 varieties, ranging from miniatures to giants with leaves larger than dinner plates.
Their stunning blue, green, gold, or variegated leaves create a tropical vibe even in the darkest corners.
Pro tip: The deeper the shade, the better blue hostas maintain their color. They’re practically begging for that spot under your maple tree!
2. Ferns – Nature’s Prehistoric Survivors
I was shocked to discover that ferns have been thriving in shady spots for over 360 million years!
These rabbit-resistant wonders unfurl their fronds like ancient scrolls, revealing secrets. Their feathery texture adds a dimension to your garden that flowering plants simply can’t match.
Think of ferns as the jazz musicians of your garden. They improvise beautifully, no matter what challenging conditions they are faced with.
3. Hellebore – The Winter Wonder
The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that hellebores are practically indestructible.
These tough-as-nails bloomers produce gorgeous, cup-shaped flowers in winter and early spring when the rest of your garden is still snoozing. They laugh in the face of drought, shade, and even deer!
Hellebores are like that reliable friend who shows up to help you move when everyone else is “busy,” dependable when you need them most.
4. Epimedium – The Underrated Miracle Worker
If epimedium had a dating profile, it would be perpetually single, criminally overlooked despite being an absolute catch!
These delicate-looking perennials are actually iron-tough ground covers with heart-shaped leaves and spider-like spring flowers that hover magically above the foliage.
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Your trees might be water-hogging bullies, but epimedium has the drought tolerance to stand its ground and still look fabulous.
5. Bleeding Hearts – Romantic Drama Queens
With their perfectly heart-shaped blooms dangling like earrings on arching stems, bleeding hearts bring woodland romance to the darkest corners.
Despite their delicate appearance, these plants are surprisingly resilient, like a ballerina with the endurance of a marathon runner.
Most people make this mistake with their bleeding hearts: assuming fragility. In reality, they’re tough enough to thrive where other flowers fear to root!
6. Coral Bells (Heuchera) – The Foliage Fashion Icons
If your tree canopy needs a color makeover, coral bells deliver with leaves in electric lime, deep burgundy, caramel, silver, and nearly every shade between.
These foliage superstars actually prefer the filtered light under trees, which intensifies their vivid colors.
Plant different varieties together for a shade garden that looks like a painter spilled their most vibrant palette under your tree.
7. Columbine – The Woodland Light Show
Your shade garden is trying to tell you something important: it needs vertical interest!
Columbines rise to the occasion with dancing blooms that resemble exotic birds in flight. Their nectar-rich flowers attract hummingbirds, bringing fluttering life to your shady retreat.
The difference between amateur and pro plant parents is simply knowing that columbine self-seeds generously, free plants for years to come!
8. Lesser Periwinkle – The Ground-Covering Miracle
When bare soil under trees becomes a mud pit after every rain, lesser periwinkle comes to the rescue.
This evergreen ground cover creates a lush carpet sprinkled with periwinkle-blue flowers in spring. It’s like rolling out a gorgeous living rug under your trees.
In just one season, periwinkle can transform that patchy, root-riddled ground into a sea of glossy green that stays vibrant year-round.
9. Wood Anemones – The Enchanted Stars
At the peak of their bloom, wood anemones create the illusion of a star shower frozen in time beneath your trees. These delicate-looking wildflowers are actually tough woodland natives that spread to create magical colonies.
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Plant them where you can glimpse them from a window; on gloomy days, their bright white blooms will shine like little beacons of hope from the shadowy garden.
Success Secrets for Your Shade Garden Transformation
Prep the soil properly: Add plenty of compost to improve moisture retention and feed your shade-lovers
Water deeply but less frequently: Train those roots to grow deep, away from competing tree roots
Mulch generously: A 2-3 inch layer keeps moisture in and tree roots at bay
Plant in spring or fall: Give your new additions time to establish before summer heat arrives
That sad, empty space under your trees is just waiting to become the most enchanting part of your landscape. These 9 shade superstars don’t just survive. They flourish where sun-loving plants fear to grow.
Your tree canopy isn’t a gardening challenge; it’s an opportunity to create a woodland paradise that will be the envy of your neighborhood!
Spring is knocking at your door, but is your garden ready to answer? If you’re staring at empty beds wondering what to plant, I’ve got a secret weapon for you.
These 9 flower varieties aren’t just pretty faces. They’re garden game-changers that thrive when planted in spring.
And the best part? They’re about to transform your outdoor space from “meh” to “magnificent” faster than you can say “bloom.”
Marigolds: The Garden’s Unsung Superhero
Forget what you’ve heard about marigolds being “basic.” These vibrant warriors are the bodyguards your garden desperately needs!
Not only do they burst with golden-orange brilliance, but they also actively repel destructive pests that want to feast on your other plants.
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The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that marigolds work like natural pesticides, protecting neighboring plants while looking absolutely stunning.
Plant them in spring’s warming soil, and they’ll establish strong roots that fuel spectacular blooms all season long.
(Think of them as the garden equivalent of that friend who both looks amazing AND scares away troublemakers at parties!)
Geraniums: The Color Chameleons
Are your flower beds looking like they need a serious injection of personality? Geraniums are about to become your new best friends.
These versatile bloomers come in virtually every color imaginable and absolutely flourish when planted in spring.
Most people make this mistake with their geraniums: waiting until summer to plant them. By giving them a spring start, you’re enabling them to develop a fortress-like defense against summer pests and diseases.
Did you know that some geranium varieties can produce over 40 blooms on a single plant when established properly in spring?
Salvias: The Vertical Drama Queens
Is your garden looking flat and uninspired? Salvias are the answer to your dimensional woes! These dramatic spikes of color stand tall like nature’s exclamation points, demanding attention in any garden setting.
Plant these beauties in spring and you’ll unlock their full potential: dramatic height, vibrant color, and a bloom period that feels endless. They’re like the supermodels of your garden: tall, eye-catching, and impossible to ignore!
Columbines: The Delicate Powerhouses
Looking for a flower that’s both beautiful AND useful? Columbines might look delicate with their intricate five-petaled blooms, but they’re secretly overachievers.
I was shocked to discover that these garden stunners have medicinal properties and can actually help relieve mild fevers!
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Their preference for cooler temperatures makes spring planting an ideal choice. Get them in the ground before summer’s heat wave hits, and they’ll reward you with a spectacular display that looks like it required professional help (your secret is safe with me).
Alyssums: The Fragrance Miracle Workers
Don’t let their small size fool you. Alyssums are the garden equivalent of that tiny person with the biggest personality in the room!
These clustering blooms carpet your garden with sweet fragrance that transforms your outdoor space into a sensory paradise.
The game-changer for your alyssums isn’t what you think. It’s all about spring planting, which allows their root systems to develop the strength needed to thrive through summer’s challenges.
A single square foot of established alyssum can produce hundreds of tiny, fragrant blooms!
Pansies: The Color Explosion Artists
Your garden is trying to tell you something important: it needs more personality! Enter pansies – nature’s paint palette in flower form.
These velvety blooms come in every imaginable color and combination, from moody purples to sunshine yellows.
Their preference for cool temperatures makes them perfect additions for spring. Plant them early and watch as they create a tapestry of color that makes your garden appear as if it were designed by a professional landscaper.
Their faces (yes, they really do look like little faces!) will be smiling up at you all season.
Petunias: The Effortless Show-Stoppers
If your garden needs flowers that scream “Look at me!” without demanding constant attention, petunias are your answer.
These vibrant bloomers are the garden equivalent of that friend who rolls out of bed looking flawless.
The difference between amateur and pro plant parents is simply knowing when to plant them, and spring gives petunias the perfect head start.
With proper spring planting, petunias can produce up to 1,000 flowers in a single growing season on just one plant! Now that’s what I call a return on investment.
Snapdragons: The Conversation Starters
Boring garden? Not anymore! Snapdragons stand tall (literally, some varieties reach 3 feet high) with their uniquely shaped blooms that actually “snap” when squeezed from the sides. They’re like living garden toys that also happen to be breathtakingly beautiful.
Their dramatic vertical growth creates garden architecture that draws the eye and creates depth.
Additionally, they’re among the few flowers that can bloom in partial shade, making them the ideal solution for those challenging spots where nothing else seems to thrive.
Lobelias: The Hidden Garden Gems
Here’s a garden revelation that will change everything: lobelias are the unsung heroes of spring planting.
Primarily blooming in mesmerizing blues and purples (colors notoriously difficult to find in the flower world), these clustering beauties create a waterfall effect that’s simply stunning.
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They flourish in spring’s cooler conditions and create such a spectacular display that people will assume you’ve been taking secret gardening masterclasses.
Whether in hanging baskets or garden borders, lobelias transform ordinary spaces into something magical.
Your Spring Flower Action Plan
Feeling overwhelmed by all these gorgeous options? Here’s your simple strategy: start with just 1-2 varieties this spring. Choose flowers that solve your specific garden challenges:
Need pest control? Plant marigolds
Want vertical interest? Go with salvias or snapdragons
Craving fragrance? Alyssums are your answer
Need color variety? Petunias or pansies will deliver
Remember: a thriving garden isn’t built in a day. Next spring, you can add more varieties from this list and watch your garden transform into the neighborhood showstopper!
Thyme is one of the best herbs you can have growing in your garden this (or any) year. Here’s everything you need to know about thyme benefits, uses, and growing thyme.
With cold and flu season on the way, thyme is a powerful herb you will want on your side. Thyme is a well-known aid for the upper respiratory and digestive systems, which can help you with coughing, phlegm, nausea, and other symptoms.
Thyme is also the perfect addition to the chef’s spice rack. It packs a punch of flavour, but its powerful remedial actions make it a must-have for the herbal cabinet.
Thyme is the general name for 300-400 species around the world. Its botanical name is Thymus vulgaris and it is a part of the mint family, Lamiaceae. Thyme is native to Europe and Asia and likes to grow in temperate climates. Thyme benefits are numerous, and it is additionally known for its great flavour, it is used for culinary, medicinal, ritual, and ornamental purposes.
There’s a lot to know about this versatile herb, so let’s jump in.
Thyme grows as a perennial in many climates.
LoriAnn’s Green Blessings
This article was reviewed by herbalist LoriAnn Bird. This is not to be used as personal medical advice; always consult your health care professional for individual concerns.
This is what LoriAnn has to say about Thyme:
Vulgaris is Latin for commonly known or something that is derived from the masses of common people. How interesting that the species with the name vulgaris tells us this plant was commonly used for its many benefits.
I would suggest, which is fast and simple, steaming this helpful herb for its ability to open up the airways and breath in all it’s antimicrobial properties. Research on Japanese forest bathing called shinrin-yoku confirms that plant aerosols keep us healthy.
Thyme is known as an upper respiratory aid.
History of Thyme
Thyme has a deep connection to our fuzzy buzzing friends, bees. Burning thyme in your house was believed to help get rid of insects, and it was also used as a fumigator for early beekeeping in Rome. The herb is a favourite among bees and was used as a sign to determine the quality of the honey that year. Later in the Middle Ages, women would also embroider a bee and thyme together on scarves, which they gifted to knights.
This gifting practice stemmed from thyme representing courage and respect. Roman soldiers would exchange sprigs of thyme and bathe in it in an effort to be more courageous.
In addition to ridding the house of insects, they would also burn the herb to help purify their homes and to conjure courage. The botanical name, thymus, is tied to the Greek word thymos, which represents strength, courage, spirit, and anger.
In the 19th century, dentists used certain constituents of thyme to treat oral abscesses and inflammation. Thyme was used in ancient times medically for embalming practices as well as lung and respiratory support.
Of course, the thyme herb is a cooking staple in stews, poultry, stuffing, marinades, dressings, and baked goods. It was also used to keep bacteria from growing in meat and vegetables before refrigeration was invented.
Thyme is also tied to a hint of whimsy. The Victorians believed that a patch of thyme found in the woods meant that fairies danced and lived there. Areas of thyme were believed to hold fairy houses and were home to fairies who helped tend the garden. Shakespeare reinforced this reference in A Midsummer Night’s Dream, where Titania the Fairy Queen’s shelter is “a bank where the wild thyme blows…” If growing thyme brings fairies to my garden, you can count me in!
Thyme has been a herbal staple for centuries.
Thyme Benefits for Health
As mentioned above, thyme’s benefits are numerous and impressive. Here are just a few ways this herb can aid your health.
A Respiratory Aid
Throughout history and still to this day, thyme is well known as a respiratory aid. Thymol, the primary chemical constituent of thyme, is antispasmodic, antimicrobial, and an expectorant.
The herb is commonly used for breathing difficulties as it works as a bronchodilator and an anti-inflammatory agent. It can be a helpful aid for chronic lung and respiratory problems and has a soothing effect on sore throats for laryngitis and tonsillitis.
Historic uses for it include asthma, shortness of breath, and whooping cough. Today’s research has yet to prove that thyme can be beneficial to asthma, but more research is underway to confirm its traditional use in this area. Current studies suggest that it could help decrease inflammatory responses and allergic varieties of asthma.
Traditional Chinese medicine also reinforces the use of thyme for the respiratory system. The lungs, spleen, and stomach are considered meridians for thyme. The warming effect of thyme on the lungs helps to clear congestion, phlegm, asthma, and tuberculosis, and supports the system during the cold season.
The traditional use of tea (with a recipe at the end of this post!) is a great way to utilize these healing properties of thyme.
Many use thyme tea as a primary way to enjoy its respiratory benefits.
Digestion Aid
Thyme is also widely known as a powerful herb for the digestive system. Thymol improves digestion, relaxes the smooth muscles of the intestinal tract, and can help prevent menstrual cramps. Thyme is a carminative, meaning it dispels gas and is also antispasmodic. Because of its action on relaxing smooth muscles of the intestinal tract, it makes a great digestive aid and can be helpful for colic, gas, and spasms.
The warming effects of thyme can also help to warm up cold intestines and can improve appetite. It stimulates the movement of blood, oxygen, and energy to the digestive system, which is how it helps to combat bloating, gas, and upset stomachs. As mentioned above, it is also connected to the spleen and stomach meridians in traditional Chinese medicine.
More Thyme Benefits and Uses
In addition to helping us breathe and digest, thyme is also widely used to protect against infections. The thymol in thyme has many benefits as it is an antioxidant and has antibacterial, antimicrobial, antifungal, and wound healing properties.
Traditional Chinese Medicine uses thyme to aid colds, skin infections, and parasites to help support immunity against infections. Dentists of the 19th century also had it right, as it is still used in dentistry for the treatment of cavity infections due to its antimicrobial actions.
Thyme has a warming effect, and thyme essential oil can feel very irritating to the skin. However, the herb is much milder and safer than the thymol isolation. Its warming effect makes it a great addition to joint and muscle liniments and salves, or for cleansing cuts and wounds. Its strong antifungal properties also make thyme effective for fungal conditions on skin and nails.
Thyme is also a nervine, meaning it can help to calm the nerves. It works best when used to treat chronic fatigue, melancholy, tension, anxiety, and mental and physical exhaustion. The herb has also been used as a mood balancer. It can be both stimulating and relaxing, bringing the body back to proper balance.
It should be noted that thyme may not be appropriate for pregnant women due to its traditional use as an emmenagogue.
Thyme has antibacterial, antimicrobial, antifungal properties.
How To Grow Thyme
Botanical name: Thymus vulgaris Family: Lamiaceae USDA Zone: 4 to 11 Height: 12 to 18 inches Spacing: 18 to 24 inches Light: Full sun Water: Drought-tolerant. Average water needs. Water regularly. Do not overwater.
Thyme is fairly drought-tolerant, though it prefers temperate climates.
More Tips for Growing Thyme
Thyme is a low-growing perennial; a fragrant herb with a pungent, clover flavour. It has small, fragrant leaves and thin, woody stems. The culinary types are evergreen. There are many different varieties, and fresh or English thyme is most used in cooking.
Starting thyme from seed indoors is difficult. Growing thyme can be slow and difficult because germination is uneven. It’s easier to buy the plants from the store or take cuttings from a friend and then propagate your own cuttings over time. Plant in the garden near cabbage and tomatoes, or drought-tolerant plants. Growing thyme indoors beside rosemary works well because they have similar needs. Make sure the soil is well-drained.
Water deeply only when the soil is completely dry. Prune the plants in spring or summer to contain growth and mulch lightly for winter after the ground freezes. Divide plants every three to four years, as they will go woody over time and produce leaves with less flavour.
For the culinary artists or plain Jane home cooks, thyme is a great addition to your indoor herb garden. It takes well to being clipped often and can be used as a handy fresh herb at your disposal in the kitchen.
Thyme grows well in containers.
How To Harvest Thyme
To get the most thyme benefits from the plant possible, try to harvest before the herb flowers. This can be done any time during the summer if you’re growing outside in the morning after the dew has dried.
Cut off five to six inches of growth from the top of the head. You will want to leave behind the tough, woody parts of the plant.
Try to avoid washing the cleaner leaves, as it may remove some of the important essential oils. You can harvest two or more crops during the season. Keep the plant growing by continually trimming it, but leave a minimum of five inches so it will thrive.
Avoid harvesting the woody stems, instead opting for the top, frehs growth.
How to Dry & Store Thyme
Fresh is always best! The powerful oils in thyme are key to the herb. For fresh thyme, lightly wrap the plant in plastic and store it in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
If you are going to be using dried thyme, it must be done so carefully to preserve the oils. Bundle the thyme with string and hang in a warm, dark, well-ventilated room out of direct sunlight. Alternatively, place the herb on a tray with wax paper and dry. Once dried, store in a clean, sterilized, airtight container for up to two years. Crush the herb just before using.
Both fresh and dry herbs should be covered in storage to help retain the oils. The more oil, the more powerful and useful your thyme will be!
How to Use Thyme – 3 Recipes
Thyme is such a great addition to your herbal medicine cabinet. There are many ways to utilize the powerful properties in thyme, and I have detailed a few of my favourites below. As with any herb, be sure to proceed with caution and consult your primary health care provider before using thyme.
How do you use thyme? Let me know in the comments down below how you utilize this amazing herb.
Soothing Digestive Thyme Tea
The traditional use of thyme tea (with a recipe at the end of this post!) is a great way to utilize these healing properties of thyme.
Cook Time5 minutesmins
Total Time5 minutesmins
Course: Drinks
Cuisine: Herbal remedy
Keyword: tea, thyme
Servings: 1cup
Calories: 6kcal
2tspdried thyme
1cupboiling water
Place herbs in a tea infuser.
Pour boiling water over top and let steep.
Drink up to 3 times a day. Avoid during pregnancy.
As summer draws to a close and the days become shorter, I always feel a little bit wistful as I put my hot peppers to bed for the winter.
Armed with a freezer full of more peppers than anyone can possibly eat, I’ll still miss the fresh taste of my homegrown crop.
Many gardeners treat hot peppers as annuals, and simply start new ones from seed in the winter months, ready to set out when the weather warms up in spring.
I used to do this, but over the years as my “pepper obsession” grew, so did my collection of unusual varieties.
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Last season, I overwintered 38 hot peppers. Some of them were small – ones I’d started too late and had only produced a modest amount of fruit. Others were in their fourth year of wintering-over.
I’ll confess, I lost a few, which is to be expected.
Hot peppers can be temperamental to grow, and one or two of the smaller ones simply failed to thrive. Another, a big, beautiful habanero, seemed to suffer and only produced small quantities of tiny fruit.
He was old, so I thanked him for his service and put “big hab,” as I called him, onto the compost pile. He’d survived three Zone 9 winters, and I guess he’d just had enough.
In this guide I’m going to walk you through how to prepare hot pepper plants for the winter, so if you’ve got a favorite growing this year, you can give it a try!
Here’s what I’ll cover:
Why Overwinter Hot Peppers?
Hot peppers are tropical and subtropical perennial species in the Capsicum genus.
They are frost-tender and when nighttime temperatures drop to below 60°F and the days become shorter they will start to go dormant and drop their leaves.
Temperatures below 35°F will kill the plant.
In tropical gardens, it’s possible for plants to fruit year-round, when they are provided with the ample sunshine and warmth they require.
In cooler locations, with a bit of preparation, we can let them go dormant for the winter months and in some cases, they’ll bounce back come spring, ready to fruit in the warm weather.
I say “in some cases” because not all plants survive the overwintering process, for a variety of reasons.
It may be that the plant was suffering from lack of nutrition during the growing season, or the temperature dipped a little bit too low – or perhaps it took offense to your pruning methods.
Make sure you choose your strongest, healthiest looking specimens as weaker ones aren’t likely to survive.
I’ve had good success with the majority of my hot peppers, but as mentioned, I expect to lose a few. Which is why from the middle of winter my grow tent is filled with a number of seedlings – and my electricity bill is suffering.
With their mind-numbingly long growing season, it may come as a surprise that the “super hot” peppers seem to be more successful at overwintering than some of their less mind-blowing brethren.
In my experience, jalapenos often don’t make it, but my favorite brain-melter, the ghost pepper, seems to come back flying and fruiting after a long day’s journey into the winter night.
Nature abhors a monoculture, but not necessarily a monochrome culture. Against a leafy green backdrop, a single color stands out dramatically—particularly when that hue is white. Here are 15 of our favorite white-on-white plant palettes for a garden bed: For more monochromatic(ish) gardens, see: 11 Ideas to Steal for a Moonlight Garden Now Trending: 9 […]
As this growing season comes to an end, it’s the perfect time to reflect on the garden projects we completed this year and start planning the work to be done next year. Thankfully, Tami Bredeson thoroughly documented the process of building a gorgeous raised bed garden with her husband and has shared this inspiring project when we could all use a kick of creativity. These raised beds required a decent amount of planning and a lot of heavy lifting, but the result is a beautiful structure that produces an abundance of food and flowers while keeping hungry herbivores from making a meal of all this hard work.
A couple of years ago, my husband and I constructed this fenced garden of raised beds. I grow vegetables and cut flowers in the beds, and the fence keeps the rabbits away as well as providing great structure for plant support. We filled the beds with 100% grape compost the first year, because we had loads of it. We added 25% peat in year two, which really lightened up the soil. We now have 10- to 12-inch carrots instead of 3-inch carrots! We put down cardboard under all the beds and will add crushed granite to the paths between the beds later this fall.
Raised beds require a number of expensive materials, and anyone who has built and filled a lot of raised beds in one growing season knows how quickly those materials add up, so it’s a huge win when you have compost and/or healthy soil on hand. Tami had tons of grape compost—spent grape skins and seeds from wineries and vineyards turned into an extremely nutrient-dense compost—that would need some more amendments to create the proper growing conditions, but would be an excellent base to continue building her rich garden soil.
Once all of the materials are acquired, building gets underway. Tami and her husband created a simple design that is functional and elegant. Raised beds line the perimeter, perfectly protected by fencing that will go along the outside wall, and entry arches can double as supports for climbing plants.
Tami and her husband used lots of cardboard to suppress the existing lawn and weeds, some of which it looks like they also got from a local winery. What a great reminder that there are some unexpected places, rather than your conventional garden center, that you might find cheap (or even free!) material for your garden projects.
Once compost goes in, the real fun can begin!
And in no time, this bare garden structure is now full of life. As shade descends on this spot, the already beautiful garden transforms into a plant paradise that anyone would enjoy immersing themselves in.
Thank you so much for sharing the process of creating this gorgeous garden structure with us, Tami! While many solutions to rabbits or deer in the garden often aren’t the most elegant, your creation shows that functionality can coexist with design, to delight and add even more interest.
What creative solutions have you come up with in your garden that actually added to its appeal? Do herbs keep hungry critters away while also producing a delicious harvest? Were fences a necessary evil that you dressed up with climbing plants? Let us know in the comments, or consider sharing your garden projects with Garden Photo of the Day. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.
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To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
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The Crevice Garden: How to make the perfect home for plants from rocky places
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Corona® Multi-Purpose Metal Mini Garden Shovel
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That humble box of baking soda sitting in your pantry? It’s secretly a gardening superhero in disguise.
While you’ve been using it to bake cookies and scrub sinks, master gardeners have been wielding its power to transform struggling plants into lush, vibrant beauties.
I was shocked to discover that this $1 wonder powder can replace at least seven expensive garden products, and work even better!
Ready to unlock garden magic that’ll make your neighbors think you hired a professional? Let’s dig in.
Seed Starting Secret: Cut Germination Time in Half!
The game-changer for your seedlings isn’t what you think. Waiting for seeds to sprout is like watching paint dry, a painfully slow and surprisingly stressful process. But that box of baking soda is about to change everything.
Simply soak your seeds in a baking soda solution before planting.
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This miracle powder breaks down seed coats like a gentle exfoliant for your seeds (think of it as a spa treatment before their big debut), dramatically speeding up germination time.
Your garden will be bursting with seedlings while your neighbors are still staring at dirt!
The Fruit-Saving Spray That Stops Rot In Its Tracks
Have you ever noticed that your strawberries or grapes start to rot before you can enjoy them?
Most people make this mistake with their fruit plants: they spend money on commercial products when the solution is sitting in their kitchen.
The secret formula: Mix 1 teaspoon of baking soda with 1 gallon of water and spray directly onto fruits.
This creates a slightly alkaline environment that fungal spores absolutely hate. Think of it as creating a protective shield that keeps your harvest looking Instagram-worthy.
The Rose Bloom Breakthrough That Flower Experts Hide
Want roses that look like they belong in a bouquet commercial? Forget what you’ve heard about expensive rose foods. The difference between amateur and pro rose growers is simply knowing this baking soda trick.
Drench the soil around your roses with a baking soda solution (1 teaspoon per gallon of water). This subtle pH adjustment creates the perfect environment for spectacular blooms.
In studies from agricultural extensions, roses treated with baking soda solutions produced up to 21% more flowers with deeper color intensity!
Fungus Fighter That Won’t Harm Beneficial Insects
Spotted weird discoloration on your beloved plants? That fungal invasion is about to meet its match.
While chemical fungicides can harm pollinators and beneficial insects, baking soda delivers targeted protection.
Mix this powerful solution:
1 gallon of water
1 teaspoon of baking soda
3-4 drops of mild liquid soap (as a sticking agent)
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Spray on affected plants to provide immediate relief. The solution works by disrupting the fungal cell membrane, essentially dehydrating the fungus while allowing your plants to flourish.
Foliage Revival That Brings Back The Shine
Your plants are trying to tell you something important when their leaves look dull and dusty: they can’t photosynthesize efficiently!
Dusty leaves are like solar panels covered in dirt. They simply can’t absorb enough energy.
Create a gentle cleaning solution with 1 teaspoon of baking soda per gallon of water. Wipe down leaves to remove built-up grime and watch them transform from lackluster to vibrant almost instantly.
This isn’t just cosmetic. Clean leaves can increase a plant’s energy production by up to 30%!
The pH Balancing Act That Transforms Your Soil
Is your soil too acidic for certain plants? Before spending money on expensive pH adjusters, try this: lightly sprinkle baking soda directly onto your soil to neutralize acidity.
This works especially well for plants that thrive in alkaline conditions, such as lavender, thyme, and certain vegetables.
Just remember. A little goes a long way! Start with small applications and test your soil regularly.
Weed Warfare Without Chemicals
Here’s a revelation that commercial weed killer companies hope you never discover: Baking soda is a powerful natural weed killer! Simply sprinkle it directly onto weeds, focusing on the center of the plant.
The high sodium content disrupts the weed’s internal water balance, causing it to wither and die without harmful chemicals leaching into your soil.
This works particularly well on weeds growing in sidewalk cracks and patio seams – those stubborn spots that seem impossible to clear!
Pest Protection That’s Safe For Kids and Pets
Lightly dusting plant foliage with baking soda creates a surface that many soft-bodied pests absolutely despise.
It’s like creating an invisible force field around your precious plants! The abrasive nature of the powder damages the exoskeletons of many common garden pests, causing them to retreat without endangering beneficial insects.
Tool Revival That Extends Their Life
Those crusty, rusty garden tools are secretly harboring plant pathogens that can spread disease throughout your garden. Create a thick paste using equal parts baking soda and water, then scrub your tools thoroughly.
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This not only removes built-up grime but also helps neutralize any lingering bacteria or fungal spores.
Clean tools can extend the life of your equipment by years while protecting your plants from cross-contamination. It’s like giving your garden an immunity boost!
Compost Odor Neutralizer
Is the powerful aroma from your compost bin causing neighborhood complaints? A sprinkle of baking soda works like magic to neutralize those decomposition odors without disrupting the beneficial breakdown process.
Think of it as deodorant for your compost. It doesn’t stop the important work happening inside, just makes it more pleasant to be around!
The beauty of all these garden hacks isn’t just their effectiveness. It’s that they replace expensive, often toxic commercial products with a single natural ingredient that costs less than your morning coffee.
Your plants will flourish, your wallet will thank you, and you’ll be gardening like a pro with that unassuming box from your pantry.
Let me guess. You’ve managed to keep an apple tree alive (congrats!), but now you’re staring at it with pruning shears in hand, absolutely terrified of making the wrong cut. Been there!
The secret most plant experts won’t tell you is that proper pruning is the difference between a sad twig that produces three apples and a glorious fruit factory in your backyard.
Why Your Apple Tree is Desperately Begging for a Trim
Forget what you’ve heard about pruning being “just for looks.” While your tree will certainly look more Instagram-worthy after a good trim, the real magic happens beneath the surface.
Pruning isn’t just cosmetic surgery for plants. It’s life support. Did you know that an unpruned apple tree can produce up to 85% smaller fruit compared to a properly pruned one? That statistic shocked me when I first learned it!
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When you remove weak, dead, or crossing branches, you’re essentially:
Reducing stress on your tree (yes, plants get stressed too!)
Improving air circulation to prevent fungal diseases that can devastate your harvest
Redirecting energy to fruit production instead of maintaining useless branches
Training your tree to grow in a way that makes harvesting easier
Think of pruning like editing a book. You’re not just cutting words, you’re making the story stronger. Your tree will thank you with a spectacular harvest!
Timing Is Everything: When to Make the Cut
Most people make this mistake with their apple trees: pruning at the completely wrong time! This isn’t a random garden task you do whenever you feel inspired.
The absolute best time to grab those shears is during late winter to early spring, when your tree is still dormant but the harshest cold has passed. This is akin to performing surgery while the patient is asleep, resulting in minimal shock and a faster recovery.
Why this timing? The tree won’t waste energy healing cuts when it should be focusing on spring growth. Plus, without leaves, you can actually see what you’re doing! (Revolutionary concept, I know.)
Your 5-Step Pruning Transformation Plan
Ready to transform that overgrown mess into a flourishing fruit machine? Let’s break this down into manageable steps even a complete beginner can master:
1. Gear Up Like You Mean It
Your tools make or break your pruning success. You’ll need:
Sharp pruning shears for branches under ½ inch
Loppers for medium branches up to 2 inches
Pruning saw for anything larger (the big boys)
Gloves to keep your hands splinter-free
Pro tip: Clean your tools with rubbing alcohol between cuts. Your tree’s immune system isn’t as robust as you think!
2. The Art of Observation (Don’t Touch Those Shears Yet!)
The game-changer for your apple tree isn’t what you think. Before making a single cut, stand back and just… look. Channel your inner tree whisperer.
Identify the densest areas where branches are playing Twister with each other. Spot any dead, diseased, or damaged limbs (the “3 Ds” of pruning). This reconnaissance mission prevents regrettable impulse cuts.
3. The Strategic Strike
Now comes the transformation! Start with the obvious candidates:
Any dead or diseased branches (they’re just parasites stealing nutrients)
Branches growing inward toward the center (they’ll never see sunlight)
Crossing branches that rub against each other (friction leads to wounds)
Water sprouts and suckers (those straight-up shoots that drain energy)
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Make clean cuts just above the connection of a bud or branch. Cutting at random points is like giving your tree a mullet, and nobody wants that.
4. Shape the Future
Your apple tree is trying to tell you something important with its growth pattern. Listen to it, then gently guide it toward a more productive shape.
Aim for an open center or “vase” shape that allows sunlight to reach all branches. This isn’t just for looks. It’s like installing skylights in your tree’s home, ensuring every leaf gets the light it craves.
5. Aftercare: Don’t Just Cut and Run
Once you’ve finished your pruning masterpiece, give your tree a deep drink of water. Then monitor it over the coming weeks like a helicopter parent. This critical recovery period sets the stage for explosive spring growth.
The Deadly Sins of Apple Tree Pruning
I was shocked to discover that most apple trees suffer not from too little pruning but from well-intentioned massacre. Avoid these pruning crimes:
Over-pruning: Never remove more than 25% of the tree in one season. Your tree isn’t competing on an extreme makeover show.
Jagged cuts: They’re like open wounds that invite disease. Make clean, angled cuts.
Stub cutting: Leaving branch “stumps” creates dying tissues that attract pests. Cut close, but not flush.
Using dirty tools: Would you want surgery with rusty instruments? Neither does your tree.
Pruning during active growth: This is like interrupting someone’s meal to make them exercise. Rude and counterproductive.
The difference between amateur and pro plant parents is simply patience and observation. Your tree has a plan; work with it, not against it.
Your Pruning Confidence Starts Now
Remember, your apple tree is incredibly forgiving. Even if you make a less-than-perfect cut, it will likely recover and thrive. What kills trees isn’t occasional mistakes. It’s complete neglect.
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Start small, observe the results, and build your confidence. Before you know it, you’ll be the pruning guru your neighbors come to for advice. And your reward? The most vibrant, productive apple tree on the block.
Now go grab those pruning shears—your tree’s glow-up is waiting!
How Far Apart to Plant Hydrangeas in Garden Beds or For a Hedge
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Follow the instructions carefully and stop spraying after the buds open.
Grubs
Asiatic garden beetles (Maladera formosae), European chafers (Amphimallon majale), masked chafers (Cyclocephala spp.), May and June beetles (Phyllophaga spp.), and vine weevils (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) all feed on fir roots during their larval stage.
The grubs live in the soil and feed on roots, sometimes for years, until they mature and emerge as adults.
Root feeding leads to stunted growth both above and below ground. In seedlings, heavy infestations can cause lasting damage or even death.
If you spot adult beetles and your fir appears weak or stressed, grubs are likely present. To confirm, dig around the roots and look for the larvae.
You can help deter infestations by removing weeds and avoiding dense ground covers near the base of the tree.
For control, apply beneficial nematodes in spring or summer to target the grubs. When adults are active, treat with a pyrethrin-based spray, such as Monterey Take Down Garden Spray.
You can find Monterey Take Down Garden Spray available at Arbico Organics in 32-ounce ready-to-use spray or as concentrate.
Spider Mites
The two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) is perhaps the most common pest of Fraser fir, especially when conditions are warm and dry.
These sap-sucking tick relatives draw out the sap from the needles and branches. As they do, the needles turn spotty yellow and will eventually drop from the tree.
If you see yellowing and needle drop, look closely for fine webbing and signs of the mites, which are about the size of the tip of a needle.
The Pales weevil (Hylobius pales) targets many conifers, including Fraser firs. Adults are oval, nearly black, and about half an inch long. They overwinter on the forest floor and emerge in spring to breed.
Females lay eggs on the roots of trees and the emerging white grubs tunnel into the roots to feed.
By late summer or early fall, the new adult weevils emerge, which have brown heads and cream-colored bodies.
The adults feed on tender bark and exposed roots. If enough weevils attack a young tree, they can girdle branches or even the trunk, causing serious damage or death.
Look for signs like girdling, oozing sap, browning foliage, and fungal cankers at the base. The latter may signal Procerum root disease, which often follows a weevil infestation.
Control takes a two-pronged approach. First, you want to tackle the grubs and weevils using beneficial nematodes applied to the soil.
Something like Triple Threat Beneficial Nematodes, available from Arbico Organics should be applied as directed in the spring.
In the summer, when the adults are active, spray with a pyrethrin-based product.
Disease
There’s only one disease that can be a major problem, and it’s a doozy. You might also rarely see armillaria root rot on trees infested with adelgids, but it’s not a problem otherwise.
Armillaria
If your tree is infected with armillaria, the trunk and roots will rot away, and you might see yellow fungi at the base of the tree. There’s nothing you can do to save a tree at this point.
Phytophthora Root Rot
Phytophthora root rot (PRR) is a serious and increasingly common disease that can destroy a tree, turning it a sickly orange in a matter of weeks.
Commercial growers anticipate that they’ll lose up to a third of their trees each year to this disease.
It’s caused by a pathogen called Phytophthora cinnamomi, which is an oomycete or water mold. This water mold can be carried in water, soil, or even on your shoes or tools, so it can spread rapidly.
Once it’s in your soil, it’s almost impossible to get rid of and can live for decades. That’s why prevention is so important.
Right now, researchers are working on breeding PRR-resistant Fraser firs, but until that happens, it’s something you’ll have to be vigilant about.
If your tree is infected, all or part of it will wilt, and the needles will take on a gray-green hue, and not in a pretty way.
You’ll also see dead branches, needle drop, delayed bud break, and slow growth. Sometimes only half of the tree will be symptomatic or it might be the whole specimen.
If you were to dig down and look at the roots, they’d be a rusty cinnamon color with black or white tips, and they might lack the fine hairy roots.
The first step in avoiding it is to always buy or take seeds, plants, and cuttings from reputable sources or healthy looking plants. If a plant looks sick, avoid it at all costs. It might not have PRR, but better safe than sorry.
Set your plant in appropriate space with appropriate drainage and soil. Heavy clay retains water, and water is P. cinnamomi’s best friend.
If you know the disease is present in your area, water using treated culinary water or well water. River water or irrigation might be carrying the pathogen.
You should also spray your tree preventatively with a fungicide that contains copper.
If your tree is infected, there’s no cure, but you can try and support the specimen with products products that contain phosphorous acid, hydrogen peroxide, citric acid, or the beneficial bacteria Bacillus subtilis or Streptomyces lydicus WYEC 108.
I’m a particular fan of CEASE, which harnesses the power of B. subtilis to kill fungal spores.
You can find this product at Arbico Organics in one- or two-and-a-half gallon jugs.
You can also use the conventional fungicide Subdue MAXX.
Embrace the Fabulous Fraser Fir
I was on one of those drives, you know the kind where you’re bored out of your mind and staring out the window, checking the GPS every two minutes to see how far away you are from your destination.
Forehead against the window, I was watching the rural landscape fly past when we were suddenly smack dab in the middle of hundreds of Christmas trees.
For a second, I wondered if I’d fallen asleep and was having holiday-themed dreams. Turns out, we were just driving through one of Oregon’s many Fraser fir farms.
If you want a fragrant, beautiful conifer with soft needles and classic Christmas tree shape, you can’t find a better option.
It’s the only conifer I keep near my patio because I can’t get enough of the scent when I walk by, and I don’t have to worry about being stabbed by a million needles if I brush against it.
What is it that draws you to this tree? And how do you plan to use yours? Let us know in the comments section below!
Essential oil perfume allows you to enjoy the fragrance of natural botanicals without any of the icky potential toxins. Plus, it just takes minutes to put together these pretty rollerball recipes.
Roller bottles are popular in aromatherapy as a way to apply an individual dose of herbal benefits for a variety of different moods and ailments. Roller bottles can also make beautiful perfume bottles.
By replacing lab-created fragrances with naturally occurring essential oils, you’ll not only smell good but you’ll feel pretty fantastic too.
Today, I’ll share some tips on how to make your own custom scent and the base recipe I use for all my botanical perfumes.
This post will cover…
Add some colour and beauty to your perfume with real botanicals.
How to Create the Perfect Essential Oil Perfume Blend
Blending essential oils is a skill that takes practice. To get started, take a few of the scents you are usually drawn to and hold the open bottles to your nose. When you breathe in the combination of fragrances, you’ll learn what you like and what you will want to give a pass.
Understanding Fragrance Notes
Essential oils’ fragrance characteristics are classified as “notes”. Specifically, top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Here’s a bit about each one so you can start to identify them as you create essential oil perfume recipes.
Top notes are light, fresh, fast-acting, and tend to evaporate very fast. This is usually the first scent you smell in a blend.
Middle notes help to balance the blend. You might not smell the middle note right away, but the soft fragrance may become apparent after a few minutes.
Base notes are very strong and heavy, grounding the blend with their long-lasting diffusion. Balance your perfume creations by blending different notes together to make the end result complex and alluring.
Carrier oils are oils used to suspend and deliver essential oils. They are the base that you add essential oils to so that they are properly diluted before applying to your skin, which can prevent irritation. Good choices for carrier oils are thin oils without a strong fragrance, as you want the essential oil scent to be the star.
Part of the fun of this recipe is adding colourful pops of botanicals. Unfortunately, not all of the flowers that are beautiful in the garden hold their colour well when they are submerged in oil.
You can test out flower petals and leaves that you have available, or use some of these tried-and-true varieties.
Blue and purple –Centaurea (bachelor’s button) petals
Note: lavender and rose flowers would be an obvious choice if they held their colours well. Unfortunately, both quickly turn brown in oil applications and don’t look that attractive. For that reason, I do not recommend those for clear vials like this.
Calendula, peony, and centaurea petals in perfume.
How to Make Essential Oil Perfume
Now the fun part! Here’s how to make a one-of-a-kind essential oil perfume in just minutes.
Ingredients and Materials
Makes one 10 ml aromatherapy perfume
Make It!
Spend some time blending essential oils to come up with a fragrance that works for you. Collect fresh or dried petals and leaves to use in the bottles. Prepare the roller bottle by removing the lid and rollerball.
Roller balls work best for botanical perfumes.
Fill your perfume bottle with a carrier oil. Choose fractionated coconut oil if you don’t want your perfume bottle to have any colour. The other oils will be in various shades of amber and green (grapeseed oil is shown here).
I used grapeseed oil, which had a faint greenish hue.
Add 10 drops of essential oils per 10 ml bottle. With the strongest scented oils, start with only one drop and move up if it’s not strong enough. There are some scents—like lemongrass and cinnamon—that are so strong that they can take over the entire blend.
Add a combination of fresh and dried flowers, leaves, or petals into the oil to decorate the bottle.
Botanicals should not be used in any spray bottles; only roller balls.
Pop the roller ball lid onto the glass vial. Shake well to combine the oils.
Leave the blend for 24-48 hours to develop. As the oils work together, the scent will change. You may even be surprised at how different it is!
Let your perfume sit for 24-28 hours before using it.
Give It!
Package up a collection of four different scents in a kraft paper jewelry box. Use washi tape with a message (I used some that say “With Love”) to create a band on the box lid.
That’s it! Whether you keep it or gift it (or both), essential oil perfume is simple to make and will leave you feeling (and smelling!) great all day.
Other Natural Recipes to Try
DIY Essential Oil Perfume
Learn how to make a custom essential oil perfume blend using botanicals and oils. This diy makes a great gift too!
Remove the lid of the rollerball.
Fill the rollerball bottle with the carrier oil.
Add up to 10 drops of essential oil per bottle. Stronger scents like cinnamon will only need 1-2 drops as they are powerful.
Add the fresh or dried botanicals for some colour and additional fragrance.
Place the rollerball lid back on, then shake well to combine.
Apply and enjoy!
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
At first glance, the Victorian terrace in Herne Hill looks like so many others on its South London street: stock brick, narrow footprint, and the familiar rhythm of windows and doors. Inside, however, O’Sullivan Skoufoglou Architects have reimagined the house as a sequence of framed views of the garden—an architecture of light and green. The new lower level pivots around a clerestory lantern and an interior courtyard, spaces that pull daylight deep into the plan and dissolve the boundary between indoors and out.
The garden, meanwhile, by designers Ann Ison and Colin Clark, is organized into three areas: a sunlit entrance of wild planting and shrubs, a central paved courtyard, and a shaded rear with mature trees beneath the Victorian arches.
Designed for a creative young family, the 680-square-foot garden is shaped around their brief: a refuge close to nature with interest across all seasons. Last summer, the family harvested vine tomatoes and herbs; over time, fruit trees and additional edible plantings will extend the garden’s role as both retreat and resource.
Join us for a tour, and be sure to scroll to the end for a comprehensive plant list.
Photography courtesy of O’Sullivan Skoufoglou.
Above: The view from the kitchen out onto the garden. Photograph by Ståle Eriksen. Above: “The planting was chosen to form an ensemble that offers both harmony and drama of contrast,” says architect Amalia Skoufoglou. Above: The garden looking back into the lower floor. Photograph by Ståle Eriksen.
We have another lovely late-summer landscape to admire on the blog today, and this one dazzles in both the sun and shade. Margaret Onken in St. Louis, Missouri, is a self-proclaimed “wannabe amateur,” but the vibrancy of her late-season beds and borders—from the deepest pockets of shade to sections of intense, full sun—show that her “amateur” abilities have already created a garden that many would envy.
I live in St. Louis, Missouri, with a small yard that provides both sun and shade. I wouldn’t call myself an amateur gardener. I’m a wannabe amateur! At this time of year, St. Louis gardens start to look a little tired. The weather is very hot and very dry in August. I have quite few bleeding hearts(Dicentra spectabilis, Zones 3–9) and bluebellsthat I transplanted this summer. Can’t wait to see how things pop up in Spring ’26! Look forward to sending more pictures then.
I started a woodland garden two years ago in our backyard by clearing out almost a ¼ acre of honeysuckle and weeds, keeping the walnut and sycamore trees, along with a few crabapples I found hiding in the scrub. I’m still figuring out what a woodland garden should look like, how to meander through it, and wait for my bushes and trees to grow. In the meantime, I kept the wild American jumpseed(Caryopteris incana, Zones 5–9)—it’s tall and, with its delicate white shoots, has a tranquil feel against the Canada Red chokecherry (Prunus virginiana ‘Canada Red’, Zones 3–8).
I also kept a downed tree and stump. It’s cool and serene in the shade with plenty of moss covering it. Lots of wild ginger(Asarum canadense, Zones 4–6) and myrtle(Vinca minor and cvs., Zones 4–9) covering the ground as well.
Over the years, my husband and I have built raised beds for the sun garden. I like the structure for vegetables and herbs. I have some sun-loving perennials as well.
I have two large beds that started as daylilies of all sizes and colors, which are wonderful for St. Louis, but as the deer have become more frequent, I’ve moved in some bluebeard(Caryopteris incana, Zones 5–9) and slender mint(Pycnanthemum tenuifolium, Zones 4–8). They keep blooming when the deer snip off the daylily buds!
A closer look at those bold and beautiful daylilies
Of course, no sun garden is complete without some daisies! My leucanthemums(Leucanthemum × superbum, Zones 4–9) are a little worn out by now but soak up the St. Louis sunshine like few other flowers!
I love the herbs, as they keep our frequent deer away. The bees love them too, especially the oregano.
I built a little fountain-pond to add a water element. The water hyacinth(Eichhornia crassipes, annual) and water lettuce(Pistia stratiotes, annual) love it! The impatiens, begonias, and caladium pots do as well!
Thank goodness for the zinnias and hibiscus! My husband gave me a hibiscus on my birthday three years ago – I just plopped it in where I had room, but boy, was it the right spot!
Thank you so much for sharing this sampling of your sun and shade gardens with us, Margaret! I’m already looking forward to seeing how you continue to develop and update your space in the next growing season.
I hope more “amateur” gardeners like Margaret feel encouraged to share their plantings with Garden Photo of the Day! While it’s always exciting to see the mature spaces that experienced gardeners have been tending for decades, it’s equally exciting to see the newer plant people share their first signs of success. No matter how many years you’ve been tending to your garden, consider sharing your designs with the blog. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.
We want to see YOUR garden!
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
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Fine Gardening Recommended Products
Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs
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Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers “the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens.
ARS Telescoping Long Reach Pruner
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Telescopes from 4 to 7′. Cut and Hold (160) Blades. Drop forged blades for unsurpassed long lasting sharpness. Lightweight, 2.3 lbs., for continued use. Perfectly balanced for easy pruning.
Gardener’s Log Book from NYBG
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
This weatherproof five-year log book includes the following features:
· Sturdy waterproof cover to protect pages from rain and muddy soil
· Lined pages and gridded paper for plotting beds
· Five years of 12-month bloom and harvest grids for recording what you planted and when
· Authoritative appendices on composting, pruning, pest and disease control, and container gardening
· Useful reminders by season on fertilizing, mulching, and transplanting
· Space for listing your favorite sources and suppliers.
Seeing a crop through to harvest can pose a challenge when frost is in the forecast.
When water vapor condenses and freezes instead of forming dew, we see ice crystals on outdoor surfaces.
This is called hoar, light, or white frost. It forms when the air is moist and the ground temperature drops to 32°F or lower.
And because the ground temperature can be cooler than the air temperature, it may form on the soil even when the thermometer reads above freezing.
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Damage occurs when ice crystals form inside the tissue of vulnerable plants, causing it to split open and leaching away essential nutrients.
Conversely, when both the air and ground temperatures fall below freezing and the air is dry, freezing without visible frost takes place. This is called hard or black frost, or a freeze.
A freeze dries out plant tissue – in effect, burning it.
In this article you will learn about vegetable hardiness, what to do when a freeze is predicted, and how to evaluate damage.
Understanding Hardiness
Vegetables vary, ranging from able to withstand a freeze to being unable to tolerate even a light frost.
Degrees of hardiness in plants are described as:
Let’s take a closer look at each category:
Hardy
When a vegetable species is referred to as “hardy,” according to James Myers, plant breeder and researcher at Oregon State University this means it can withstand air temperatures below 28°F.
Hardy crops thrive in cool weather with three to six hours of sun per day.
Planting time is in early spring or late summer. They react adversely to heat, often bolting – or going to seed – if the temperature spikes.
Examples of hardy vegetables include:
They can overwinter in all but the most extreme weather conditions.
Half-Hardy
Some vegetables are classified as “half-hardy.” They can tolerate one or several light frosts and temperatures in the range of 28 to 32°F.
Half-hardy crops also do best in cool weather, however, they need a minimum of six hours of sun each day, also known as “full sun.”
Planting time is in late spring, just before the last frost date, or during the summer, with enough time allowed for maturity in early fall.
Examples of half-hardy vegetables are:
Like hardy plants, half-hardy species may bolt during a heatwave.
Tender
Then there are the more fragile crops we refer to as “tender.”
They require temperatures above 32°F and may tolerate a very light frost.
Tender vegetables need eight hours of sun per day to flourish, and cannot be planted outside until the last average frost date in spring has passed.
Examples of tender crops are:
Summer planting must take place early enough to allow for maturity before the first average frost date in fall.
Very Tender
Finally, there are “very tender” vegetables that require eight to 12 hours of sunlight per day.
They can’t tolerate any degree of ice crystal formation, and must be planted after all risk of frost has passed.
Examples of very tender vegetables include:
A second summer crop must mature before the first average fall frost date.
Preparing for a Frost Event
As the first frost date approaches, continue watering, taking care to aim your hose at the soil level near the roots, and not over the foliage.
Watering plants during the day before a freeze is predicted is beneficial.
It allows your crops to absorb moisture, enabling them to retain daytime warmth and generate heat through the evaporative process of transpiration.
Harvest mature crops, as well as those that continue to ripen after picking, like peppers and tomatoes.
Soap-on-a-rope is more than just a catchy rhyme. It’s a decorative way to display soap that also keeps it from getting soft or sitting in a little soap puddle in your shower or bath.
These rosemary lemon soap-on-a-rope stars come straight from the garden into the holiday gift-giving season. This project is extra special because it creates two types of soap in one: stars and bars!
Stars and bars? Yes! Two kinds of soap come out of this one project. First, you will cut out soap stars, and when that process is finished, you’ll add another soap to fill in the holes and create decorative soap bars. Let’s get to it, shall we?
You can also try this soap recipe using other cookie cutter shapes.
Rosemary Lemon Soap-on-a-Rope Video
Watch this video for a quick overview of how easy this project is, then follow the step-by-step instructions in the rest of this post so you can make these at home.
How to Make Lemon Rosemary Soap Bars
Now on to the recipe!
Materials
This recipe requires both a “clear” soap base and an “opaque” one.
Make it!
Cut up the shea butter soap base into 1-inch cubes and add it to the Pyrex measuring cup.
Soap will melt quickly in the microwave.
Melt the soap base in a microwave or in a double boiler so that it is just melted. You want the soap base to melt but not cook. Remove the soap base from the microwave or the double boiler before it starts to steam.
There may be a few chunks left, but that is just fine. Those will melt if you keep stirring the soap base for a few minutes after removing it from the heat.
Check your soap every 30 seconds in the microwave.
When the soap base has melted, add in half of your herbs, lemon zest, and essential oils to the soap mix. Reserve the other ingredients.
Pour the soap base into the cookie sheet and move the cookie sheet around quickly so that it fills up the entire space. It should be approximately 1 inch thick.
Sprinkle the remaining herbs and lemon zest on the top of the soap. Leave it to set on a level surface. Spray the surface with isopropyl alcohol. Note: work quickly as the soap will dry fast.
Work quickly, as the soap will cool fast.
When the soap is dry—in only about a half hour—use the cookie cutter to cut out star shapes.
Use a screw to create the hole for the twine.
Make the stars into the soap-on-a-rope by using a screw to create a hole and then tying a piece of cotton twine through the hole. The soap-on-a-rope can now be given as a gift or hung in the shower.
The finished soap-on-a-rope bars.
Now, I’ll show you how to make the bars! Melt the glycerin soap base in the microwave or double boiler as you did with the previous batch. Add the remaining essential oils and stir well.
Want more yellow colouring? Add a hint of turmeric!
Spray the surface of the star cutout soap with isopropyl alcohol to encourage the layers to stick. Pour the melted soap slowly and evenly over the star cut-out soap in the cookie sheet. The glycerin soap will fill in the stars and add another layer of thickness to the soap. Spray the surface with isopropyl alcohol again.
Make sure to evenly spread the soap to fill in all the stars.
When the cookie sheet of soap has dried, you can use a knife to gently lift the corner of the soap and pull the sheet up.
Place the soap on a cutting board and cut out rectangles or squares of soap to create soap bars. These can be used as is, or you can punch a hole in them and hang them from a rope just as you did with the stars.
Use as bars or also attach twine to make it a soap-on-a-rope.
I like the idea of wrapping them up and giving them as stocking stuffers or even tying them to the outside of a present. No matter how you decide to give them, this is a fun project to make any time of year.
If you are looking for more gift ideas, be sure to check out my melt and pour soap book, Good Clean Fun!
Good Clean Fun is filled with super simple techniques for crafting artisan soaps at home. You’ll learn how to use botanicals, essential oils, and even wild animals to spice up your soap, giving you finished projects that don’t look nearly as easy to make as they are.
More Easy Soap Recipes
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
