There is no set type for the shape of a bearing Apple tree, because, depending upon variety, the younger trees will vary from growing erect and slender to open and spreading. Eventually, as the tree matures, it will develop into a fine spreading type. Observe your particular tree and if it is of the narrow erect type, according to its initial growth, make your pruning cuts just above buds, which are pointed away from the center of the tree. If your variety of Apple is of the spreading type make the cuts above buds pointed toward the center of the tree. The time for pruning is during the winter months.
All Apples produce their fruit on “spurs,” which are formed on the branches one-year-old or more, usually in the lower portion of these branches. These “spurs” are developed from the short lateral growths that vary in length from one to three inches. After they have definitely formed, they can be recognized by their thick stubby appearance. The spurs produce blossoms and fruit year after year and should be saved wherever possible.
When pruning the Apple tree, first cut out any dead or deceased branches, being careful to make cuts close to the main branch, without leaving any stub. This is very important because all apples are quite susceptible to rot, which can easily start in a stub which is left long enough to die back, rather than heal over with bark and new wood growth.
Second, cut away any interfering wood, or branches that are rubbing against one another or that have come down too close to the ground and hinder cultivation.
Third, cut out sufficient of the last year’s branch growth to evenly space all branches, allowing even sunlight penetration throughout the treetop. In doing this cutting, be careful to leave all established fruit spurs and those small lateral bud developments that are to be future fruit spurs.
If the tree is making normally rapid growth, especially a young tree, the new branch growth must be cut off just above the fruit spur buds. In the case of young trees, this will mean about two-thirds of their length, as shown in the illustration.
Water sprouts or suckers should be cut out at any time that it is proven by their growth to be such. A sucker is a rapid growing shoot that comes from below ground, and rapid they should be removed as soon as they appear, by digging down to their base and cutting them off very close to the root or trunk. Painting the cuts will help prevent rot from setting in. Water sprouts are “above ground suckers” and are recognized by their habit of growth, which is excessive in comparison with the rest of the branch growth of the tree. This growth is by nature, weak in structure, and will not develop into suitable fruit producing wood, so cut it off clean and allow its sap to flow into more useful branches. These water sprouts were allowed to grow will deprive the tree of valuable energy.
In the case of old trees, which have lost the main branch, or become one-sided, the water sprouts may be utilized to fill in vacant spaces, by heading them back, thereby forcing them to branch out and slow down their excessive soft growth.
Thinning the crop of fruit is frequently necessary with Apples, and this work should be done after the “June drop” has taken place. The “June drop” is a natural process with all fruit trees, in an effort by nature to adjust the crop to what the tree can bear. This period is apt to occur any time after the first of May, to July, and if in your opinion there still remains too much fruit for your trees to ripen, they may be hand thinned, leaving the remaining fruit evenly spaced throughout the tree’s branches.
Your babies are all grown up. Or at least they’re teenagers and you want them out of the house until they adjust their attitudes. In any case, the time has come to harden them off (sounds like tough love but it’s for the best). Then you can plant them!
Harden Off Your Seedlings
Remember last April – that first warm sunny day? You pulled on your shorts, tank top, and flip-flops, and ran out to offer yourself up to the sun goddess? Then, after a day of ecstatic frolicking, you came home and realized that your tender PNW skin was burnt to a crisp? So, now you’re sunburnt and embarrassed and wishing you’d shown a bit more restraint? Yeah, seedlings feel like that, too.
Those indoor lights are far less powerful than the sun. So you have to gradually prepare them for the great outdoors. This is called hardening off. It will take about a week, give or take. Day 1: place your seedlings outside in a protected area in the shade for an hour or so, then bring them back inside. Day 2: repeat, extending the time by an hour or two. Day 3: repeat, possibly allowing some morning sun.
Repeat, repeat, repeat. Each time allowing your plants to stay outside longer (if the night temperatures are moderate, you can even leave them outside overnight) and get a little more sun each day. At the end of the week, they will be ready for planting.
Hardy seedlings can begin the process of hardening off once they have 3-4 true leaves. Start hardening off your tender plants about 1 week before you plan to plant them outside.
A Few Planting Tips
Cucumber and squash don’t take kindly to people messing with their roots, so try not to manipulate them too much when you transplant them.
Bury tomatoes deep. Otherwise, the Law might find them (joking). If you bury up to about 2/3 of the stem, roots will grow from each leaf node, making them stronger.
Be sure to water your new seedlings well after planting and keep a regular watering schedule. Seedling have small roots so they can dry out quickly.
When to Plant Your Seedlings Outside
Sowing and transplanting dates are determined by their distance from the last expected frost, which can kill half-hardy and tender plants. In Seattle, our last frost can be as early as mid-March but since it varies, we generally place it on April 15th to be extra safe. Everyone has a different opinion on when to transplant so refer to your seed packet for specific recommendations.
Transplant 4 weeks before last frost: scallions, spinach
Transplant 2 weeks before last frost: arugula, broccoli, calendula, kale, lettuce, onions, parsley, snapdragons
Transplant on our right after last frost: bachelor’s buttons, cauliflower, corn, cosmos, marigolds, nasturtiums, pansies
Transplant 2 weeks after last frost: beans, bok choy, ground cherries, melons, squash (summer and winter), tomatillos, tomatoes, zinnias
Transplant at least 4 weeks after last frost: basil, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers
Time to get out there and start some seeds! If you have any questions, we at Swansons are happy to help. Ask us in person or email us at garden@swansonsnursery.com. You can also send us pics and updates on social media using #heyswansons! We love to see your baby veggies!
LIKE ANY GARDENER looking ahead to another growing season, I’m deep into the seed catalogs, dreaming of things to come. But many seeds also offer us a window to look back in time by telling us their stories, which are also the stories of the people who grew them before us and the places those people and seeds have journeyed from.
I have a special affection for catalogs that celebrate seeds with such histories to share. Ujamaa Seeds, founded in 2021, is one such place and one of its founders is here to talk about “seeds as vessels of cultural heritage,” as they refer to them.
A force at Ujamaa is Bonnetta Adeeb, a retired educator, president of Steam Onward, Inc., a nonprofit dedicated to increasing the number of minority and underserved youth pursuing higher education in STEM-related fields. In 2020, she founded the Ujamaa Cooperative Farming Alliance, a collective of BIPOC growers, farmers, and gardeners who cultivate and distribute heirloom seeds and grow culturally meaningful crops.
Read along as you listen to the February 13, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
ujamaa seeds, with bonnetta adeeb
Margaret Roach: It’s good to talk to you again, and congratulations on launching the second seed catalog for Ujamaa. Yay. With twice as many varieties, it seems like, as last year.
Bonnetta Adeeb: Yes. Well, our goal is to grow more growers, and our growers were more successful and more things came in. And then as we look at the broader mission, our work with youth and our regenerative work, it’s very important that we have increased perennials, things-
Margaret: Oh, yes.
Bonnetta: …that are better, good for the planet, and actually are very good for new growers, to have things that don’t have to be planted that will volunteer and come back on their own [laughter]. So that’s how we came to increase the catalog much more than we thought we would.
Margaret: Yeah. So you add a lot of perennials and a lot of other great things. And so just to start as background, tell us what Ujamaa means, for example, the name means, why did you choose it?
Bonnetta: So one of the things that many African Americans in this country have struggled with is figuring out our heritage. Many people have in the past seen themselves as orphans, without history, without culture, and all of that.
And so about 50 years ago, a gentleman decided to get together with other scholars and put together a culturally event called Kwanzaa, and to have seven principles. And these seven principles would allow African American communities outside of the continent to reclaim and rebuild a community structure.
And so Ujamaa is one of the seven principles that has to do with cooperative economics and people pulling together, working together around a common cause. It’s a pretty important concept for people who need help and can get help from within their communities, can build from within, and bring in friends that want to help build something positive. And so therefore, we came up with that name, to talk about the collaborative nature of the work that we have to do in order to reclaim a lost heritage.
Margaret: And it’s not a conventional commercial catalog, but I believe the proceeds support the work you’re doing that I was beginning to describe in the introduction, the work to support the cooperative farming alliance, to grow more growers, as you say and so forth. Is that what the proceeds are for?
Bonnetta: Yes. So it’s interesting that my family, along with many other families fled the South. My family fled the South by night because of Jim Crow and repressive activities in the South, but not everything… We took some things with us, but one of the things that we really did not seem to take as a people was the seed, the knowledge of seed and seed varieties. And it seemed to get lost along the wayside, even families that have been farming for hundreds of years still seem to have lost the connection to those heritage varieties.
So when you really think about it, so it was like, “Well, we grow turnip greens,” or, “We grow mustard greens, or collard.” It wasn’t the fastidious nature of the details of holding onto this one variety. So that’s the work that we have to do in order to reclaim that knowledge of seed saving, of seed stewardship, and then gathering those seeds and make sure that they’re saved and protected for future generations.
That’s going to take some time and some work. And so when you get seeds from Ujamaa Seeds, you’re helping to support work in reclaiming that heritage and providing long-term systems for maintaining those traditions. [Above, ‘Purple Top Globe’ turnip, grown for roots and greens.]
Margaret: As I said in the introduction, what draws me to seeds often, besides the deliciousness or beauty of a particular variety that I can grow, is the story. I love reading the descriptions in my favorite catalogs, some tied to a particular culture, a particular time, a particular family even. Do you have a family seed story? Was there a seed that meant something to you, or that you know about from your family?
Bonnetta: Yeah, so when we started doing this work, we started interviewing grandmothers, the elders in the community. COVID had taken so many elders, so we felt a sense of urgency to find out what was in their grandmother’s gardens. And so we identified certain things in various cultural communities, Asian, Native American, that were central to those communities.
In my case, there was a repetition of things that came up. There were always collard greens, there was always okra, certain things just persisted in gardens. And my family has been farming in South Carolina actually since 1710. We’ve traced back folks, and we heard these stories about how successful farmers were able to protect their families and live a better quality life. And the way they did this was by having certain signature crops that were profitable.
And the case of my family, I heard about some watermelon that was grown that was so profitable that, and I think there were also other things like sweet potatoes, but this particular watermelon was one that they made so much money on that the girls were able to stay home.
Now you probably know that throughout the South, that African American girls had to go out of the home to work as maids. And so if a family could be successful in growing a crop that was able to have the family be able to keep those girls at home, they could have work for home. My aunts and my cousins, all of them had their own bakery. They baked things, but they didn’t have to leave home to work. And that provided a safe haven for girls. Life was dangerous and still is dangerous for women who are out and about.
So from the stories, I never heard about a particular variety, but I had a wonderful meeting with some growers, some wonderful people from Seed Savers, and they said, “Well Bonnetta, we have rematriation project going with Native Americans. We can bring that project to Ujamaa and help growers find the things that are culturally meaningful for their families.”
And so we set about this journey, we had about 26 growers initially involved, and I had to start with my own story [laughter]. So it’s like, well, what was important in my family? So I started by interviewing the elders, the oldest members. I have a cousin that’s 104 and several very high up in their 90s. And it turned out that I have some cousins that are still on the land in Williamsboro, South Carolina, that my family was able to buy after slavery. And so I’m in conversations with these elderly farmers and I’m saying, “Well, what was that watermelon that you grew?” And they were like, “How am I supposed to remember what I grew?” [Laughter.] That was the story I got.
So I’ve learned some tricks from doing these interviews with elders by asking them to go back into their memories about the kitchen life and family life: What did it smell like? What was going on?
Margaret: Oh!
Bonnetta: And so what I found is that by talking about smells and taste and helping them to envision those childhood memories, I can coax memories. And so from this conversation with my elderly cousin Leon, I asked him, “What shape was it? What color was the flesh? Was it large? Was it round?” And from this, it just popped in his memory. He said: “It was the ‘Stone Mountain’ watermelon. That’s what I grew.”
And then he began to tell me the story of this watermelon, and why it was so important to the family. That the success of this melon allowed them to send their boys and the children to college. And it was just another example of the importance in being an experienced and successful farmer, and how you could raise the status of yourself and your family by sending those children to college to get that education. So that was really, really exciting.
Margaret: That’s an interesting… It’s an alternate version of genealogical research, do you know what I mean? It’s really fascinating. And you used the senses, you asked for sensory memories to get at the answer, that’s brilliant.
I want to talk about some of the… So ‘Stone Mountain’ watermelon, that’s a big watermelon. That’s a big round watermelon I think.
Bonnetta: It is.
Margaret: Yeah.
Bonnetta: It’s big. It’s round. And it’s a picnic means it could feed multiple people. So the more you learn about watermelon, the more you learn about some of the mythology, some of the racism and stereotypes that arose around Black people eating watermelons. Some of the vilification of Black folks grow in eating watermelon. So it’s a bittersweet story. It’s sweet and we all know the reason why it is such a delicious [laughter]-
Margaret: We know the sweet part. Yes.
Bonnetta: So I have cousins that collect Black memorabilia, and so many of those pieces negatively depict Black people eating watermelon. As you go further, and as we research for our current catalog, we found out those things are African varieties. They come from Africa just, just like African peas and okra. And they were used for hydration. They had a very important role initially-
Margaret: Absolutely.
Bonnetta: They came, and the first ones were yellow, and as watermelon grew. So the story of watermelon is complex and it’s deep.
Margaret: Yeah. And you have some great ones in the catalog. In Ujamaa. Yeah.
Bonnetta: Right. So that’s why those seeds are kind of rare. We didn’t have a lot of them, but we felt that this story as we go trace our roots backward, literally [laughter], and as we look toward the past, we find this tremendous implications for future. Because with a drought, with all the problems related to weather, food that provides hydration is going to be super-important in the future.
Margaret: Very important. Very important. Yes.
Bonnetta: And so that’s what’s so exciting about the work, Margaret, because the past informs the future, and the technologies to strengthen knowledge of how to grow these things and produce them. And not just that, but also breed varieties that are transportable. That watermelon one that has the handle on it, the ‘Art Combe’ watermelon, also, that one that was protected and held by the Hopi, the yellow ‘Early Moonbeam’[photo above]. I have a whole family crying over these stories, I mean this is-
Margaret: Well, and like I said, that’s what gets me when I go into a seed catalog. Those are the ones that resonate with me. And I’m a greens lover, so I want to talk about some of the other things in the catalog. And I love to eat greens. And because of Southern Exposure Seed Exchange decades ago, their catalog, I bought my first collard greens. I’m a Northern person, but I bought my first collard greens seeds a million years ago, and grew them, and came to love them long before the kale thing happened [laughter] or whatever.
But I think what gardeners… One little pocket of stuff I noticed in the current Ujamaa catalog that maybe some gardeners have overlooked are some of the traditional nutritious and delicious (and often beautiful, on beautiful plants, sources of greens that you offer seed from things in the Amaranth family that are good, that the leaves can be eaten like callaloo, which is a green amaranth, or the Lagos spinach [photo above], which is a Celosia. We know it as a flower, an annual flower, but the leaves. And I mean, that’s what gets me is I read about these things and I know the plant, but I don’t think of it as a edible. And yet it’s been an edible traditionally through all these cultures that just blows me away. I love that.
Bonnetta: So, Margaret, I think that this is the story of greens is so important. I think that greens are completely tied to the identity of Ujamaa because the story of those collards is a story of one of the reasons why Africans ended up in this country in the first place is because of their knowledge of farming, their skills, and growing in all kinds of climates and conditions. And so when we hear the stories of how peas were braided into the hair and put in people’s garments, amulets around their neck. So we got okra, and peas came across also on slave ships with African people, because they needed food that they could recognize.
And for the life of me, as I learned more about collards, and we began this Heirloom Collard Project, it was like, “Oh, why didn’t greens come with the Africans?” I think you mentioned it’s the size of the seed. [Above, Yellow Cabbage Collards, from Ujamaa.]
I mean, amaranth seeds are so fine. They’re like sand. And they were difficult to transport. So because African people were not able to find their traditional seeds, they looked at wild greens, they looked at available greens and collards that are a throw off of kale and cabbage were available, and they bred them to be used in the same way that traditional greens are used, collard, mustard and turnip. And then some wild greens, like cress and dandelion and other things, shepherd’s purse, are used.
So what I’ve come to believe in, I’m on this journey, if you can help me, is finding out more about why the traditional African greens didn’t make it. So as I am presenting at conferences, I’m a vagabond traveling from conference to conference.
So many, particularly the experienced southern Black growers, want to know, well, what are the African greens? If it’s not turnip, mustard and collard, then what were the greens that people sought to replicate as they began to look for varieties and develop varieties in their enslaved farms and on their Sunday farms? People were not allowed to grow every day of the week, just after dark at night and then on Sundays.
So I think that being able to put a package of Celosia or molokhia or amaranth or nightshade greens from Kenya, or like you said, the sokoyokoto, the Lagos spinach [photo below]. I mean, to hand that to somebody, and it’s such an emotional and loving thing to do. What a gift, to give somebody something they thought that was lost to them.
Margaret: And I just want to encourage people, regardless of where they’re gardening, to give some of these different greens a try. Because I know for me, I didn’t know anything about collards 30 or 35 years ago, and there I was growing them, and they’re amazing and productive and cold-tolerant toward the end of the season. They stand, even in my northern area. I mean, they don’t do as well over the whole winter like they would in a fairer climate, but you know what I mean? You learn so much in the deliciousness and the different tastes within “greens.”
So I don’t want to run out of time, so I want to make sure that we have a minute to talk about you. And by the way, you mentioned the Heirloom Collard Project, and people can learn more about that. But we can’t not talk briefly about okra. And I’m especially interested in this ‘Ultracross’ okra that you have some interesting okras in the catalog at Ujamaa right now. But I wanted to ask you about that as well.
Bonnetta: So ‘Ultracross’ [photo below] is a phrase that was established by…[laughter]... It’s like “extra,” it’s a whole lot of different varieties of okra, 85 varieties in that mix. We have ‘Ultracross’ collard also that has started out with 21 varieties.
And so in the effort to teach people how to grow, how to observe for the beautiful things you mentioned—the color, the cold tolerance, the taste; it’s sweet, it is a little bit bitter. A lot of people love bitters; cabbage is a bitter taste. For tenderness, for size. And in my case, I really love the collard, the beautiful range of color that you could show.
But what you get with the okra is this beautiful array of sizes and flowers and tenderness, and the color ranges are amazing. So we’re working with Chris Smith from Utopian Seeds to use this as the first African crop that we introduce to people in their journey to learn how to seed breed again.
And it’s so beautiful because every plant is going to be different. In order for you to see the full array, you probably need 500 plants. You could do it with 100 [laughter], or you could just have a few plants in your yard to begin to make these observations and understand that for most of these African varieties, the leaves are the primary crop. So we have varieties of okra, the ‘Motherland’ okra, and there’s a whole slew of African varieties where the leaf is as edible as the pod.
Also, the size and the shape of the pods are so interesting, and the colors. So most people, when they think of okra, they think of one variety, I think something that looks like a ‘Clemson Spineless.’ But when I show them there’s white, there’s pink, there’s striped, there’s just all this beautiful color, purples and pinks and pink and green stripes. I mean, it’s there.
So I equate the growout, a full growout of the ‘Ultracross’ as resembling the people of the African diaspora. Everything comes from Africa. The tallest people, the shortest people, the thinnest people, the whitest people, everything.
People get surprised, but they see people with blue eyes and brown eyes and gray eyes. So the ‘Ultracross’ okra represents, it’s a metaphor for African-American people and how broad we are, especially as we travel around the world and we mix and join with other societies. And you have this full range of the Chinese African-American communities in Jamaica, or we have Appalachia that’s a mixture of slaves and indentured servantry and the beautiful color and society and music that comes out of bluegrass, the Piedmont blues and the wonderful songs and cultural traditions that come out of that.
So as we grow, as we move into Native American communities, and we talk about the three sisters, now we are talking about what we call African cousins that are symbiotic as the three sisters are.
And we let people know that a lot of things were given to us by the Native Americans. I mean, everybody claims a pepper, but those peppers all came from the Americas. The tomatoes, the ‘San Marzano’ tomato. But that was cultivated by Aztecs in the Americas. And so potatoes, the Irish potato that was cultivated from wild varieties in the mountains of South America.
So as we began to examine the great variety of foods, I asked everyone, no matter where they’re from, to look to Granny, ask Granny, “What should I be growing in my garden? What was traditional?”
I was in a restaurant yesterday that was from the Republic of Georgia. We did the same thing: What were the things that you ate that define your culture and who you are? And wouldn’t you like to see that continue to be available for future generations?
Biodiversity, I believe, is the secret to where we’re going in the future. If we can bring back, do more than just those 20 vegetables we’re currently eating, expand that and help to develop varieties that can save us and save the planet from certain doom from climate change, we can play a better role and be a better steward and be better children to Mother Earth. More respectful.
Margaret: Well said, Bonnetta. Well said. Well, we’ve run out of time, but I’m so glad to talk to you, and I will be buying my greens [laughter], looking through some of those greens in the Ujamaa Seeds catalog. And thank you. Just thank you so much for making time today. I know it’s a busy time with all the conferences and everything, but I hope I’ll talk to you again soon.
Bonnetta: Thanks so much for giving us this opportunity to share our dreams with the world, Margaret, we appreciate you so much.
Margaret: I appreciate you, too. Thank you.
prefer the podcast version of the show?
MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 13th year in March 2022. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the February 13, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
One of the greatest threats to an evergreen’s ever-greenness is winter, and all the harsh, damaging conditions that come with it.
An evergreen shrub that doesn’t keep its verdant hue year-round is disappointing, whether the plant in question is a conifer or a broadleaf plant like boxwood, holly, or rhododendron.
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A rough winter can make it difficult for evergreen shrubs to maintain their lush, healthy appearance.
That’s where the knowledge, skill, and foresight of a well-trained gardener can make all the difference.
“But I’m not trained!” you may protest. Not yet, you’re not. But after reading this guide to managing and preventing winter damage in evergreen shrubs, you will be.
Your training begins now:
Managing Winter Damage in Evergreen Shrubs
Since winters tend to be harsh and chaotic – especially here in the Midwest – don’t be surprised if your evergreens experience more than one of the following types of damage simultaneously.
Cold Temperature Injury
First and foremost, an evergreen that lacks the hardiness necessary to thrive in its local climate will probably suffer cold injury.
A common boxwood, for instance, won’t fare well if you place it in USDA Hardiness Zone 3.
The fluid within its foliage will freeze and expand at temperatures below what the shrub can tolerate, rupturing cell walls. And floral and vegetative buds are often even more susceptible to cold injury than the leaves are.
This cellular damage will leave tissues wilted, warped, and/or blackened.
New growth becomes limp, watersoaked, and withered, while evergreen shoots in particular bend downwards and exhibit red or brown discoloration a week or two after injury.
Belowground roots aren’t immune to cold injury, either.
Soil is typically warmer than air and slower to cool, and roots are actually less hardy than aboveground shoots. Add root system shallowness, an absence of insulation, and extreme cold to the mix, and root injury or death can easily occur.
Sometimes, it’s not even the exact degree of the chill that matters, but rather, the timing.
Evergreens will adapt to the stress of lowering temperatures come winter, provided the change is gradual. But an unusual bout of low temperatures in early fall can strike an evergreen shrub before it’s had time to acclimate to wintertime chills.
On the flip side, a late spring frost can harm that same plant after it’s lowered its defenses in anticipation of the coming warmth of the growing season.
Throughout winter in many regions, temperatures also tend to jump up and down like a bad liar’s polygraph reading, going through repeated cycles of freezing and thawing.
This means your shrub is making constant attempts to keep up, trying to adapt in an ever-changing environment.
Temperatures can change quickly, and it’s easy for a burst of cold to catch a plant with its guard down.
When it comes to managing cold temperature injury, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure – select evergreen shrubs that are suitably hardy for your region to begin with, and transplant them either before bud break in early spring, or prior to the onset of cold temperatures in late summer or fall.
Make sure to add three to four inches of mulch atop the root zone, as well.
If your shrubs are only marginally hardy for your area, be mindful of the microclimates formed in your garden.
Conditions such as heavy shade, harsh winds, and low elevations can lower the temperature beyond what a hardiness zone map indicates, and may put your specimens at risk.
Alternatively, utilizing protected areas such as courtyards or planting near walls can help shield your shrubs from harsh exposures.
Avoid pruning too early or fertilizing too late, since both can lead to cold injury.
Premature pruning before the last frost in spring will leave the cut ends vulnerable, while belated fertilization in late summer or fall will kickstart new growth that won’t have time to harden off.
But suppose all that prep doesn’t go according to plan and your plantings are in jeopardy. Now what?
Container plants can be moved indoors or into a greenhouse when temperatures drop too low, while in-ground plantings can be covered with a thermal plant blanket.
If you’re looking for a lightweight, durable blanket with built-in grommets around the edge for easy staking, try the Planket, available from Amazon.
If you think injury has occurred in a branch, check for damage in spring by scraping a bit of surface bark away. Green tissue beneath indicates life, while browned necrosis indicates that the branch is dead.
Prune dead branches away with sterilized tools in spring, when the shrub starts to put out new growth.
Make your pruning cuts all the way back to the first living node, bud, or branch offshoot. The pruned areas should fill in with fresh growth within a couple of years, provided repeat cold injuries aren’t sustained in the same spots.
If you check an afflicted shrub in spring and find that it’s entirely brown and dead from top to crown, then it probably won’t recover.
If that’s the case, then it should be promptly removed and replaced with a hardier specimen. If you’re particularly attached to a specific species or cultivar, you may be able to place a similar specimen in a slightly warmer microclimate somewhere else in your landscape.
Winterburn
Winterburn is primarily related to a lack of water. Sunlight and wind strip away the plant’s moisture, while frozen soil hinders the uptake of water by the roots.
Poorly-developed, shallow root systems and low temperatures – especially following a warm and sunny day – can further exacerbate moisture problems.
Without enough water, desiccated leaves will appear brown, decayed, or even bleached.
In coniferous evergreens, discoloration first appears on the needle and scale tips, while broadleaf specimens will initially exhibit symptoms at the leaf edges.
It’s also worth noting that broadleaf evergreen leaves are typically more susceptible to winterburn than conifer foliage.
A holly leaf, for example, is a much larger target for wind and sunlight than a slender pine needle. Plus, winterburned broadleaf foliage is way more conspicuous.
As severity increases, winterburn can lead to leaf drop, discoloration throughout the plant, and tissue death. Severely afflicted plants may perish, in time.
Once a winterburn damaged shrub starts to exhibit new growth in spring, remove any damaged leaves, stems, and branches.
A visual examination should suffice, but feel free to use the same scrape test that you would for cold temperature injury to determine which portions of your shrub have died back.
Some winterburn risk factors are out of our hands, such as a warm autumn delaying the onset of dormancy. But many forms of winterburn prevention are well within our control.
The proper placement of suitable plants is paramount. Choose adequately hardy specimens, and place them in spots that are protected from excessive wind and sun exposure. Only transplant in early spring or late summer into fall.
Pruning too early or fertilizing too late will also leave tissues vulnerable to winterburn.
A three- to four-inch layer of mulch will insulate the root zone and reduce water loss, while proper irrigation up until the soil freezes will top off the plant’s hydration levels for the winter.
If supplemental protection is needed, burlap or canvas screens can help to shield plants from harsh sun and wind. Use stakes at least four feet tall, and make sure the screens face the direction of prevailing winds.
Similar to those with cold temperature injury, any shrubs winterburned beyond repair should be removed after you’ve taken the time to give any still hanging on a chance to bounce back.
Replace them with tougher plantings, if you so desire, or choose future planting areas that are more protected.
Snow and Ice Breakage
I can empathize with evergreen shrubs somewhat, since we both tend to gain some unwanted wintertime weight.
But while my excess mass stems from peanut butter and indoor confinement, snow and ice buildup is what often weighs down these plants.
As the precipitation piles up, branches and stems can become bent out of shape, which is bad enough on its own.
When the weight increases beyond a certain threshold, those structures can break, rendering plants unattractive and vulnerable.
You can’t really remove ice buildup while temperatures remain below freezing, but snow can be brushed off as it accumulates on your evergreens.
During periods of intense snowfall, you may have to do so every four to five hours.
Depending on the height of the shrub, you may need some vertical assistance from a broom or lightweight snow shovel. As always, do not climb ladders to perform yard work in unsafe conditions.
Unless you’re Storm from the X-Men, chances are you can’t control the weather… but you can prepare an evergreen shrub for snowfall and ice ahead of time.
In spring or summer, prune any weak or structurally unsound branches that might break in a blizzard.
After a snowy and icy winter, remove broken, hanging, and otherwise damaged branches in spring to keep your shrubs healthy and looking sharp.
If the damage is extensive, the aid of a professional arborist can be invaluable.
Herbivore Feeding Damage
Winter is often a lean time for many plant-munching mammals.
Once their preferred plants become scarce, herbivores such as deer and rabbits can turn to your evergreen shrubs for sustenance.
Tender young specimens are especially vulnerable, and severe “pruning” by the local wildlife may result in a failure to ever attain a symmetrical form as plants mature following a harsh feeding.
For prevention, some quality fencing can come in handy. A line of deer fencing around your property and individual rabbit fencing around specimens you want to protect can provide the ultimate one-two punch of security.
Liquid repellent can also be sprayed on or at-risk plants.
Only apply liquid products to dry foliage when temperatures are above freezing, and reapply according to package instructions, particularly after periods of heavy rain.
Liquid Fence sells gallon-sized containers of liquid deer and rabbit repellent that are available on Amazon.
If herbivores still end up eating your evergreens, you’ll have to wait until mid- to late spring to see the extent of the damage.
If munched-upon tissues still haven’t put out new growth, it’s best to cut them back to the first living, growing node.
Salt Injury
As soon as that first bout of winter ice glazes over the pavement, folks are quick to douse sidewalks and driveways with copious amounts of salt, namely sodium chloride.
And while that often saves pedestrians from breaking a hip, it may leave evergreen shrubs with injuries of their own.
If rock salt lands in the root zone, it can prevent a plant from absorbing water. If the concentration is high enough, uptake of other essential minerals from the soil may be impaired.
Together, these problems cause spring and summer symptoms such as desiccation, foliar browning, and root damage.
Additionally, if salt is sprayed onto a shrub it can kill twigs, branches, and foliage.
All the more reason to be careful when applying salt: do so conservatively, and do your best to control where the salt actually ends up.
Instead of using standard sodium chloride, you could improve traction with coarse sand or de-icing products that are safer for plants, such as calcium chloride or calcium magnesium acetate.
Alternatively, you can purchase concrete-safe calcium magnesium acetate from Natural Alternative, available in 30-pound bags on Amazon.
The type of burlap barrier mentioned earlier to block sun and wind can come in handy as a salt shield as well, especially for evergreens growing alongside public roadways where municipal salt application is unavoidable.
Many other materials work for shielding, too: plastic, plywood, or even window screening!
For any specimens afflicted with excess salt exposure, deep watering in spring can help to flush what remains from the soil. Damaged areas may be pruned at this time as well.
Granted, this is the least concerning threat on the list.
But wouldn’t it sting if you’ve defended against the other winter dangers described here properly, only to hurt your evergreen shrubs with a misguided attempt at holiday cheer?
First, make sure your holiday illuminations are cleared for the outdoors, not designated for indoor use only.
Strings of indoor-only electric lights, while safe to use with plastic Christmas trees, could possibly burn or otherwise damage your living shrubs. Any branches that have been harmed can be pruned after the last spring frost.
Got the right lights? Ensure that they have no frayed wires or loose connections, both of which could cause an electrical fire.
Additionally, utilize extension cords and lightboxes which are resilient against the elements – these must be rated for outdoor use as well.
Finally, be mindful about how you actually put the lights up.
You shouldn’t choke out your plantings via tightly-wrapped lights, and juvenile specimens should not be draped with heavy lights that might snap young branches. Wait for them to mature a bit first.
Winter Is Coming…
Whether winter is just around the corner or several seasons away, it pays to “be prepared,” as the Boy Scouts are fond of saying.
With the tips offered here, you can help your evergreen shrubs to make it through the toughest season of the year, sans injury. Winter injury, that is. A force majeure such as a lightning strike or shrub-shearing sleepwalk could still occur, I suppose…
Have remarks or questions to share? The comments section awaits.
Wine barrels are the ultimate planter. Made of wood, they add a rustic and homey look to your container garden and can hold a lot of plants. Due to their large size and the amount of soil they hold, you can grow plants in these containers you never thought possible! Grow plants in a barrel successfully with these handy tips.
In this post, we will cover:
Where Can I Get a Wine Barrel for Plants?
Most garden centres will carry wine barrels that are already cut in half, so you can start your search there.
You can also get them by the half barrel if you’re lucky and live near a winery.
Preparing the Barrel
The barrels don’t need to be prepared in any way to be safe for plants. In fact, they can be either wine or whiskey barrels! These are great because they’re already food safe and great for using out in the garden.
That being said, there are a few steps you’ll want to take to turn it from your basic wine barrel to a proper planter.
Add Drainage Holes
It’s important to drill drainage holes in your barrel. I drill at least three drainage holes into my barrels. Then, I prop it on some bricks so it can freely drain.
It’s very heavy, so you’ll need to do this ahead of time before you fill your planter!
Layer with Landscape Fabric
To help filter the soil, you can put landscape fabric inside. This will prevent the soil from leaking out of the drainage holes. This fabric must be thin to let the water go through easily. Alternatively, you can use newspaper.
Filling the Barrel
Barrels take a LOT of soil. This makes them great for plants with deep roots. However, if you don’t plan on growing plants with deep roots, you can save money on potting soil by filling it with other materials before soil. Here are some ideas!
The top 12” of the barrel should be container potting mix. You can plant right into that!
Once the barrel is full, it’s nearly impossible to move due to its weight. So make sure you love the placement of it when filling it.
What to Plant in a Wine Barrel
Due to the amount of soil, you can easily grow deeply rooted plants. This makes it a suitable container for most small to medium-sized perennials, shrubs, and annuals.
Wine barrels also work great for keeping ground-crawling pests out of the way! If you have certain plants that struggle with pests, elevate them in the barrel. For instance, I grow lettuce in my barrel to keep the slugs from munching it all.
Containers also work well for keeping invasive plants under control, like mint or lemon balm.
Vegetables
Here are some vegetables that typically need bigger containers to grow:
Photo: Tara Nolan
Flowers
Likewise, some flowers you may not think are great for container planting work amazingly when planting in a barrel.
Care Tips
While the barrel’s elevation helps to prevent ground crawling pests, some can still make their way up. Slugs, in particular, are a problem for eating my wine barrel lettuce. To prevent them from crawling up, you can add a strip of copper wire around the edge to stop them.
Other Things to Do With a Wine Barrel in the Garden
Outside of hosting flowers, plants and vegetables, there are a few other things you can do with your barrel.
Make a Mini Greenhouse
You can also turn your wine barrel into a mini greenhouse. They’re the perfect size for a clear umbrella to help keep the heat in when you’re seed-starting or looking to extend the season.
Pond Insert
You can also get an insert for your wine barrel that turns it into a pond. I did this in my backyard to create a wildlife pond. The project is featured in The Regenerative Garden.
Frequently Asked Questions About Planting in a Barrel
Can you plant lavender in a wine barrel?
Certainly! Lavender has a shallow root system, so you don’t even need to worry about filling the barrel completely with soil. Lavender does well in containers and can last in one for many years.
Hydrangeas are also shallow-rooted plants and can grow well in containers.
Do planter barrels rot?
Wine barrel planters typically last about ten years. After that, they start to fall apart and then need replacing. You can place your barrel outside in the winter, rain, while it’s freezing, etc. They’re all-weather!
In the words of leading landscape architect Jinny Blom, “A pulsing blood red amaryllis is the best flower a woman can offer a love interest on Valentine’s Day. Gets the message across unequivocally.” An oversized, home-grown stem has the kind of passion that a sad, imported rose in cellophane could only dream of, weighed down as it is with environmental baggage.
In the name of meaningful offerings for this February 14, we have surveyed some of our favorite flower-oriented experts on what might be best received:
Sophia Moreno-Bunge of Isa Isa Floral
Above: Gloriosa lilies with ranunculus, in an Isa Isa bunch. Photograph by Sophia Moreno-Bunge.
Our old friend Sophia Moreno-Bunge is a floral designer with flair (and a gifted photographer) based in Los Angeles. “I always love red or coral gloriosa lilies (Gloriosa rothschildiana); they feel very fire-y and passionate and playful. My first choice though would have to be some very juicy and special pink or red, garden-grown California camellias. We get a lot of these here in the winter and they are always so lush and exuberant.”
Above: Californian-grown Camellia. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.
Frances Palmer, Ceramic Artist
Above: Ranunculus from a nearby state, in a fresh-out-of-the-kiln bud vase.
High days and holidays never take Frances Palmer by surprise; she is always prepared, even when her own New England garden is buried under snow. She suggests salmon and coral Ranunculus from the greenhouses at Hautau & Sons in New Jersey, to pair with any number of her own bud vases. Alternatively, a posy of pale hellebores.
Shane Connolly, Flower Decorator to the King
Above: “The whole idea of small and exquisite appeals hugely.” Snowdrops, left, hellebore, right. Photography by Britt Willoughby Dyer.
Shane Connolly, whose flowers adorned the Queen’s coffin last year, is a strong advocate of seasonal flowers, arranged without the unnecessary crutch of polluting flower foam. He believes that the subject of appropriate Valentine’s flowers has not been discussed enough. “If the beloved has a garden, I’d give them a rose plant. Personally I’d go for one of the divine old roses, ‘Souvenir du Dr Jamain’, ‘Francis Dubreuil’ or a rare treat from Trevor White Roses in Norfolk, England (doesn’t even have to be red!). Or one of David Austin’s superb red roses, like ‘Darcey Bussell’, or ‘The Prince’. I think the growing element is so exciting and lovely. And then you have roses for ever, and in season too.
“Failing that, I’d send snowdrops, the symbol of Hope in the language of flowers. Or some deepest coloured hellebores. Again, all these could be sent as growing plants, or cut flowers. But the whole idea of small and exquisite appeals hugely. Like a jewel—rather than a massive eco-unfriendly bunch from God knows where!”
Sam McKnight, Legendary Hairdresser
Above: Massed tulips of a single color. Photograph by Jim Powell.
Mainly known as the lodestar of hair styling, Sam McKnight has a parallel life as a flower obsessive on Instagram, focusing on his own London garden. He tells us: “I would go to New Covent Garden Flower Market (at Nine Elms, London) at 5 AM and get a huge bunch of the best tulips, in season from now. I’d find out the recipient’s favorite color first; make it really personal. And if that level of keen doesn’t frighten them off, you’re in with a chance!”
Over on Remodelista this week, an ode to the little things—a tiny home, a small kitchen, and tiny details that sing. Plus: Statement Pieces: New Wool Pillows from Artist K’era Morgan 10 Easy Pieces: Compact Countertop Appliances To Stay! Caffeine Stations for the Home Editors’ Picks: 5 Essential Winter Caps Kitchen of the Week: Stylist […]
My husband and I garden professionally in northern Illinois, Zone 5b. Together we have more than 60 years of gardening experience ranging from general maintenance to private estate management. The photos I am submitting today were all taken at one of the properties we maintain. Generally, the perennial gardens are our realm; however, this property is a mini botanical garden, so I spend a decent amount of time photographing the shrubbery and ornamentals on the property. Working for a plant lover who amassed a unique collection of plants has been a marvelous experience for us. We will continue to nurture the collection and groom the gardens for as long as we can.
As I was writing the captions for these photos, I noticed that I had selected many plants with sweet fragrances; maybe that is one reason I love these plants so much.
Clematis‘Huldine’ (Zones 4–10) has proven to be one of the most reliable and floriferous Clematis we grow on a tall chainlink fence that surrounds a tennis court. The vine needs assistance, as it is not the best twining Clematis, but it can grow 10 feet in one season and blooms for several weeks.
Magnolia stellata (Zones 4–9) is a harbinger of spring and a fragrance punch.There are three plants in this grouping that are all pruned to maintain their size and shape.
I’m a big fan of Deutzia gracilis (slender deutzia, Zones 5–8). Although in a fair amount of full shade, the plant has always provided an ample display of flowers in the difficult setting it has been placed in.
Halesia carolina (Zones 4–8) might be the most underutilized ornamental in the Chicagoland area. The small tree is easy to grow and is very showy when in flower.
Exchorda, or pearlbush, is another unique plant that doesn’t get much attention. I believe the one located on this property is an Exchorda macrantha (Zones 5–9) type, but I am not positive on that. The plant itself can look a bit gangly, but the flowers override the awkwardness of this shrub.
Viburnum plicatum f. tomentosum ‘Shasta’ (Zones 5–8) is a shrub that I want in all my landscapes because it’s such a giver! Shape, flowers, fruits, fall color—who could ask a plant for more? It is a sight to behold when it is in full flower, especially when paired, as in this photo, withHosta‘Mediovariegata’ (Zones 3–9).
A few years ago I was tasked with adding double white lilies to the perennial border.Lilium‘Aisha’ (Zones 3–9) is a crowd pleaser. She is fragrant, the perfect height (3 to 3.5 feet), blooms for an extraordinary amount of time, and possess a clarity that is hard to miss. ‘Aisha’ is a fabulous double oriental roselily.
Hosta plantaginea (Zones 3–9) seems like a nonchalant plant most of the summer; it fills space with glossy green foliage from spring to late summer until August, when it sends up scapes of pure white flowers that perfume the air. I tend to find ways to work near the hosta bed when these beauties are in flower.
Echinacea purpurea ‘PowWow White’ (Zones 4–9) is proving to be an excellent white coneflower in our gardens. We love the smaller stature and the reliability. The pollinators like it too.
Gladiolus murielae (Abyssinian gladiolus, Zones 6–9) has been a favorite tender bulb of mine for many years. I don’t mind digging the bulbs and storing them each year. The swordlike foliage and the unique flowers, along with the stunning fragrance, make this bulb a keeper in the garden.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Thinking about starting a garden but aren’t sure where to begin? This post, all about gardening for beginners, is for you — with eight simple steps to help you start your garden.
Does this sound familiar? Looking around my yard, I see weeds, overgrown plants, and a few dried-out pots I tried to grow tomatoes in last year. I think to myself…. “How am I going to grow anything here?” “What do I do first?” “How will I know what to plant?” “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?”
Read through these steps, and don’t be afraid to start a garden.You can do this!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Gardening for Beginners: How to Start a Garden in 8 Simple Steps
Step 1: Choose the best location to start your garden
The best spot is where it is convenient for you – someplace you will see and walk by often. The back of the yard behind the shed may get the most sun, but if you don’t see your garden regularly, you might forget about it.
Ideally, this spot gets morning sun – look for a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun (more is ok). You might need to provide shade in the summer in hot areas like Arizona.
Check sun exposure using the Sun Seeker app (or similar). It allows you to see the amount of sunlight each area receives.
There should also be a water source nearby or within a hose distance.
Gardening for Beginners Step 2: Add a raised bed
Start small – you can always add more. A “4 foot by 8 foot” raised bed is a good starting point. Aim for a depth between 12 and 18 inches. It is easy to construct, and you can grow a lot of food in this size space. It is important that you can reach into the center of the bed without stepping on the soil. Add more raised beds later as your ability and experience grow. This article shares tips for designing raised bed gardens.
Alternatively, use several large pots or half wine barrels for container gardening.
Step 3: Set up a watering system
An automatic watering system and a hose for watering seedlings is best. Automatic watering can be simple, such as a battery-operated timer connected to your hose bib, with either a soaker hose or drip line going to the garden. Using a two-way splitter for a second hose is helpful for hand-watering new plantings and seeds.
Gardening for Beginners Step 4: Add soil to your raised bed
One advantage of raised beds is you do not use existing soil. Once you add the perfect mix of ingredients to your raised bed, you are ready to plant. This one-time cost will probably be the most expensive part of beginning a garden.
To fill the bed, mix equal parts of:
Compost – use several different brands or make your own.
Peat Moss or Coconut Coir – makes soil lighter; helps with water retention.
Vermiculite – helps retain water and allows the soil to breathe.
How much soil will you need? The volume of your raised bed or containers determines this. A 4×4 bed that is 1 foot deep will require a total of 16 cubic feet of soil. Each time you plant, add fresh compost to your soil.
In the future, it’s important to have your soil tested each year. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s very simple to use.
Step 5: Find a planting guide written for your area and follow it
Timing is crucial in gardening. Using a planting guide takes the guesswork out of what to plant and when to plant it. Local extension offices and locally-owned nurseries are a great place to begin your search for a planting guide. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I recommend these planting guides.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Gardening for Beginners Step 6: Plant what you like to eat
Read about the vegetables you would like to grow on Growinginthegarden.com, so you understand growing requirements, when to plant, and when to harvest.
Check new seeds and seedlings often – water as necessary to keep the soil moist. If newly planted seeds and seedlings dry out, they will die.
Step 7: Spend time in your garden each day
Take a walk around your garden each morning – preferably while the watering system is running. Take note of what is growing well (yay!), and observe problems while they are young and easily corrected. When you catch problems (pest, disease, watering issues) while they are small, they are easily managed. Find joy in the successes and learn from the failures.
Step 8: Harvest and eat what you grow
Pick young and pick often – this encourages more production. Use the food you grow in the garden. Try new recipes and incorporate your garden harvest into your family’s food. Soups and smoothies are a great way to use vegetables from the garden.
Questions about how to start a garden? Ask me in the comments.
If this post about how to start a garden was helpful, please share it:
Thinking about starting a garden but aren’t sure where to begin? This post, all about gardening for beginners, is for you — with eight simple steps to help you start your garden.
Does this sound familiar? Looking around my yard, I see weeds, overgrown plants, and a few dried-out pots I tried to grow tomatoes in last year. I think to myself…. “How am I going to grow anything here?” “What do I do first?” “How will I know what to plant?” “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?”
Read through these steps, and don’t be afraid to start a garden.You can do this!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Gardening for Beginners: How to Start a Garden in 8 Simple Steps
Step 1: Choose the best location to start your garden
The best spot is where it is convenient for you – someplace you will see and walk by often. The back of the yard behind the shed may get the most sun, but if you don’t see your garden regularly, you might forget about it.
Ideally, this spot gets morning sun – look for a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun (more is ok). You might need to provide shade in the summer in hot areas like Arizona.
Check sun exposure using the Sun Seeker app (or similar). It allows you to see the amount of sunlight each area receives.
There should also be a water source nearby or within a hose distance.
Gardening for Beginners Step 2: Add a raised bed
Start small – you can always add more. A “4 foot by 8 foot” raised bed is a good starting point. Aim for a depth between 12 and 18 inches. It is easy to construct, and you can grow a lot of food in this size space. It is important that you can reach into the center of the bed without stepping on the soil. Add more raised beds later as your ability and experience grow. This article shares tips for designing raised bed gardens.
Alternatively, use several large pots or half wine barrels for container gardening.
Step 3: Set up a watering system
An automatic watering system and a hose for watering seedlings is best. Automatic watering can be simple, such as a battery-operated timer connected to your hose bib, with either a soaker hose or drip line going to the garden. Using a two-way splitter for a second hose is helpful for hand-watering new plantings and seeds.
Gardening for Beginners Step 4: Add soil to your raised bed
One advantage of raised beds is you do not use existing soil. Once you add the perfect mix of ingredients to your raised bed, you are ready to plant. This one-time cost will probably be the most expensive part of beginning a garden.
To fill the bed, mix equal parts of:
Compost – use several different brands or make your own.
Peat Moss or Coconut Coir – makes soil lighter; helps with water retention.
Vermiculite – helps retain water and allows the soil to breathe.
How much soil will you need? The volume of your raised bed or containers determines this. A 4×4 bed that is 1 foot deep will require a total of 16 cubic feet of soil. Each time you plant, add fresh compost to your soil.
In the future, it’s important to have your soil tested each year. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s very simple to use.
Step 5: Find a planting guide written for your area and follow it
Timing is crucial in gardening. Using a planting guide takes the guesswork out of what to plant and when to plant it. Local extension offices and locally-owned nurseries are a great place to begin your search for a planting guide. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I recommend these planting guides.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Gardening for Beginners Step 6: Plant what you like to eat
Read about the vegetables you would like to grow on Growinginthegarden.com, so you understand growing requirements, when to plant, and when to harvest.
Check new seeds and seedlings often – water as necessary to keep the soil moist. If newly planted seeds and seedlings dry out, they will die.
Step 7: Spend time in your garden each day
Take a walk around your garden each morning – preferably while the watering system is running. Take note of what is growing well (yay!), and observe problems while they are young and easily corrected. When you catch problems (pest, disease, watering issues) while they are small, they are easily managed. Find joy in the successes and learn from the failures.
Step 8: Harvest and eat what you grow
Pick young and pick often – this encourages more production. Use the food you grow in the garden. Try new recipes and incorporate your garden harvest into your family’s food. Soups and smoothies are a great way to use vegetables from the garden.
Questions about how to start a garden? Ask me in the comments.
If this post about how to start a garden was helpful, please share it:
When pests strike, turning to pesticides can often be the first thought. However, pesticides can do almost as much harm as good unless you’re using neem oil.
For example, pests that survive a pesticide attack will begin developing a resistance to that pesticide. Not only can this create superbugs, but the only way to prevent this is if you rotate between two or more pesticides, so it’s harder for them to adapt.
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But this costs a lot of money, and overusing pesticides can affect the soil quality and harm your plants.
What if we told you that there are cheap home remedies out there that actually work?
Take, for example, hot pepper spray. This simple remedy can not only repel a variety of insects, arachnids, and even rodent pests, but it’s known even to kill some bugs on contact.
Let’s look at how you can make and use your own homemade hot pepper spray.
How To Make A Hot Pepper Spray For Plants
While no remedy (chemical or homemade) is 100% percent guaranteed to work, hot pepper sprays remain a popular choice for home gardens.
But what makes this remedy stand out from so many others?
Why Choose Hot Peppers?
All peppers contain a chemical called capsaicin, which produces their heat. You won’t notice it in bell peppers due to how little is present, but hot peppers can contain quite a bit.
From relatively mild jalapenos and banana peppers to the mighty Carolina reaper, hot peppers can make you break a sweat and run for a drink.
But it does far more to smaller creatures such as bugs or even rabbits. The capsaicin irritates when in contact and makes eating your veggies unpleasant for hungry rodents.
It can not only help in repelling bugs but has also been known to kill some on contact.
Best of all, these sprays are safe and non-toxic, and you can simply rinse the residue from your produce before eating.
A Word About Soap
Before we go further, however, it’s important to discuss the use of soap in the following recipes.
Soap is used to create an emulsion by breaking the surface tension of water. This makes it easier to blend in oils.
It also acts as an adhesive, ensuring the pepper spray sticks to your plants once the water evaporates.
The only downside is that some plants can be sensitive to soap and may have a reaction.
We recommend you only use Dawn dish soap or pure castile soap for these recipes, as they’re the safest options and are least likely to harm your plants.
Also, be sure to always test a small part of the plant 24 hours before applying any organic or chemical pesticide to ensure there’s no sensitivity.
Popular Recipes
The following recipes are all variations on a theme, requiring only three ingredients.
Afterward, we’ll cover some additional things you can add to these recipes to increase their potency.
Ground Cayenne Recipe
Create an emulsion with the following:
1 tablespoon of soap mixed into a gallon of water
Mix in 2 tablespoons of ground cayenne pepper
This mixture will last for up to a week in the fridge, although its potency will lessen over time.
Fresh Hot Pepper Recipe
Finely chop 10 hot peppers and simmer them for 10 to 15 minutes.
Pour in a gallon of water and return to simmering for 30 to 45 more minutes,
Remove the pot from heat and allow it to sit covered for 24 hours.
Once the mixture has fully steeped, pour it through a strainer to remove the solids and add 4 to 5 drops of soap.
While more expensive and time-consuming than the cayenne pepper recipe, this mixture will remain viable for as long as 3 months when refrigerated.
Red Pepper Flake Recipe
This simple recipe is nearly identical to the cayenne pepper recipe, and only you will use 3 to 5 tablespoons of red pepper flakes instead of cayenne powder.
NOTE: You may need to strain the flakes before use, depending on the type of spray bottle you’re using.
Consider Additional Ingredients
While the above recipes will work well independently, many people like adding additional ingredients.
For example, including 10 crushed garlic cloves with the fresh chopped peppers in the second recipe can work even better as a repellent.
Related: How To Make A Garden Garlic Spray
Garlic also works well with the other recipes, either in powder or minced form.
Essential oils are also highly popular, especially peppermint oil.
The scents of these oils are attractive to humans, but pests absolutely hate them.
On a similar note, you can steep fresh lemon peel or add citrus oil to your recipes to repel mosquitoes and many other pests.
Using Your Hot Pepper Spray
It’s best to spray your plants early in the morning.
This reduces the risk of hurting beneficial insects and gives the leaves time to dry before the sun gets too hot.
Be sure to spray all the leaves on the top and bottom and the stems.
You can also spray the fruit or produce, but you’ll want to avoid spraying blooms when possible.
Repeat every 3 to 4 days and after it rains for the best results.
Canning blueberry jam is quicker and easier than you might think. In this post, I’ll show you how to make it from scratch with just a few simple tools and ingredients.
If your blueberry bush has produced more fruits than you can eat, or you find a good bulk deal at the grocery store, it’s time to try canning jam.
There’s nothing better than homemade blueberry jam right out of the jar, and canning it yourself is simple.
Below I will show you exactly how to do it with easy-to-follow steps you can use to make your own at home.
Jar of homemade canned blueberry jam
Blueberry Jam Canning Recipe
This homemade blueberry jam recipe is so satisfying and versatile, and I made it specifically for canning.
It’s scrumptious on toast, inside a peanut butter sandwich, dalloped on top of waffles, or added to your favorite dessert. The options are truly endless.
With a few simple ingredients and common kitchen tools, you will be on your way to making your own.
I created this blueberry jam recipe to be simple to make and easy for canning. It’s quick to pull together with only 4 ingredients that you might already have on hand.
Blueberries – Choose fresh in-season fruits that are plump and ripe for the best results. If you don’t have fresh, then you can substitute with frozen blueberries.
Sugar – This helps your jam thicken into a gel, and also enhances the natural sweetness of the blueberries. If you want, you could substitute half or all of the sugar with Splenda or stevia, but the texture may end up being thinner.
Lemon juice – This works with the sugar to thicken the texture and also affects the pH of the jam, which allows it to set. Be sure to use bottled rather than fresh-squeezed, because it has a more consistent level of acidity.
Liquid pectin – This is an optional ingredient, but does assist in thickening, and shortens the cooking time. If you opt to omit it, you may need to cook your jam a few minutes longer to allow more liquid to evaporate so it can set into a gel. I used liquid pectin for this recipe, as it helps preserve the flavor better than powder. It’s important to note that the liquid and powder pectins are not interchangeable measurement and timing wise. So I don’t recommend substituting with powder here.
Ingredients for canning blueberry jam
Tools & Equipment Needed
Below is a list of all the items you’ll need. Gather everything before you start to simplify the process. You can see my full list of canning tools and supplies here.
Water Bath Canning Blueberry Jam
Since the blueberries and lemon juice add acidity to this jam recipe, it’s safe for water bath canning.
Don’t try to use a pressure canner, because the extreme heat will damage the integrity of the jam, leaving it mushy and runny.
How To Store Canned Blueberry Jam
If you don’t want to can your blueberry jam you could use it right away. After it cools from cooking, eat it while it’s still warm, or put it into the refrigerator. Once open, it’s good for a few months in the fridge.
Otherwise allow the jars to cool to room temperature before storing them in a cool dark place, like a pantry, cabinet, or shelf.
How Long Does Canned Blueberry Jam Last?
When processed and sealed properly, your jars of canned blueberry jam will last for up to 1 year. Before eating it, make sure to check that the lid still has a tight seal.
Enjoying my canned blueberry jam on toast
FAQs
Below are my answers to some of the most common questions I get asked about how to can blueberry jam.
Does blueberry jam need to be pressure canned?
No, blueberry jam does not need to be pressure canned, and you should not try processing it that way. That method is too hot, and will end up breaking down the thick gel texture of the jam, making it runny. Instead, always process it in a boiling water bath.
How do you thicken homemade blueberry jam for canning?
This homemade blueberry jam will thicken naturally as you cook it from the sugar and lemon juice. You can also add liquid pectin for thickening.
Do you have to crush blueberries for jam?
Yes, I do recommend that you crush the blueberries for jam. You don’t have to be diligent and crush every single one. But it helps to release the flavor and juices from the fruits, which aid in thickening while cooking, and makes for a better overall consistency.
Canning your own homemade blueberry jam is effortless with my recipe. Soon you’ll have several jars of deliciousness for your whole family to enjoy.
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Share your favorite blueberry jam canning recipe in the comments section below.
Recipe & Instructions
Yield: 7 cups
How To Can Blueberry Jam
Enjoy this easy and scrumptious blueberry jam canning recipe that you can make at home in just a few simple steps. Spread it on your morning toast or waffles, or use it to make your favorite desserts.
Prep Time 30 minutes
Cook Time 25 minutes
Total Time 55 minutes
Instructions
Prepare the canner and berries – Fill your water bath canner and bring it to a rolling boil over high heat. Place a small plate into the freezer (you’ll need it later), then rinse and drain the blueberries.
Crush the blueberries – Pour the blueberries into a large mixing bowl and use a potato masher to crush them. When they’re ready, there should still be some small chunks, but no more whole berries.
Mix the jam ingredients – Pour the mashed blueberries into a cooking pot. Add the sugar and lemon juice, and stir everything together.
Cook the jam – Turn the burner on low heat, and continue stirring until all of the sugar has completely dissolved. Turn it up to high heat, and allow the jam to come to a full rolling boil for 10-15 minutes, stirring it occasionally.
Test the doneness – Remove the plate from the freezer and immediately drop a spoonful of jam onto it. If the jam gels up in 1-2 minutes, then it’s done. If it’s still runny, bring it back to a boil for a few minutes longer, and then retest the thickness.
Add pectin (optional) – If you’re happy with the thickness, then you can skip this step. However if it’s still too runny, then add liquid pectin to the jam mixture. Simply turn off the burner and stir in the pectin for 1-2 minutes, or until the jam thickens.
Fill the jars – Pour the jam into the hot jars using a canning funnel, leaving ¼ inch of headspace. Then wipe the rim before placing a new lid and a ring on top, and securing the bands so they are fingertip tight.
Put the jars into the canner – Using your lifting tool, carefully place the jars into the boiling water canner.
Process the jars – Process your jars of blueberry jam in the boiling water for 10 minutes. Once the time is up, turn off the burner and remove the jars right away.
Cool and label – Let the jars sit out and cool for 12-24 hours before you remove the bands. Then label them before storing by writing the date on top with a permanent marker, or try dissolvable labels.
Notes
It’s important to keep the jars hot at all times. So plan ahead and boil the processing water before filling them, then place them in there as soon as they are packed.
Also, be sure to work fairly quickly to pack your jars so they do not cool down before processing them.
Don’t be alarmed if you hear the random pinging sounds as the jars cool, it just means the lids are sealing.
Eliot Coleman, a pioneer of four-season gardening, wrote that “gardeners should dedicate a monument to the cold frame.” I agree.
If you can’t wait to start growing in the spring but the weather has other ideas, a cold frame is your secret weapon.
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In my area, the typical spring planting date is in the last week of April. But with this handy tool, I’m starting seeds in early March.
Actually, there are some cold-weather-loving crops I grow year round, but I can start just about anything a few weeks early in the spring – even tomatoes and peppers!
A cold frame is indispensable for hardening off plants that you’ve started indoors and for protecting tender crops during a surprise storm.
You can use yours to propagate seeds or to grow plants that can tolerate cooler temperatures.
And using a cold frame in the spring differs from using one in the fall or winter. It’s really the best time of year for using this indispensable “magic box.”
If you’re thinking of putting this tool to work in your garden, here’s what we’re going to talk about to help you make the most of it:
Can’t wait to start? I get it.
After a long winter, there’s nothing more exciting for a garden lover than starting up those seeds, which bring the promise of warmer weather and abundant harvests.
So let’s go!
How Do Cold Frames Work?
If you’ve never seen a cold frame before, it’s basically a box with an open bottom and a clear material over the top.
It is a bit like a tiny greenhouse, creating a warmer microclimate inside than the general surrounding climate.
Photo via Alamy.
A well-situated and insulated structure can raise the temperature by as much as 20°F compared to the outside temperature.
Most raise the temperature between 7 and 10°F – which is still a significant amount!
This structure also protects plants from the damaging effects of drying and rehydrating repeatedly as the spring weather shifts between wet, dry, hot, and cold. It protects plants from frost and chilling winds.
Some gardeners use their frame to create a hotbed, which raises temperatures even higher. We have a guide to creating a hotbed if that interests you.
Finding the Perfect Location
It’s all about location when it comes to making a cold frame effective.
The perfect spot would be on a slight hill that faces south without any obstructions to the east or west, and a building or windbreak to the north.
Photo via Alamy.
Heap soil, straw, or some other form of insulation on the north, east, and west sides. Or, even better, situate the structure next to a brick wall.
This can increase the temperature inside even more dramatically. The heat from the sun that’s absorbed by the bricks will be released slowly over the course of the day.
Once you’ve situated your cold frame, it’s time to decide how to use it. There are multiple ways, including growing plants that love the cold, protecting frost-tender plants, and starting seeds.
Growing Cold-Loving Plants
Any species that you grow in the spring can be started a bit earlier in a cold frame.
Gardeners in Zone 7 and up can grow most of these all year long in a cold frame. For those in colder regions, you can start these in your structure up to a month early.
Open up the frame when the weather’s balmy to air the interior out and keep the environment from becoming too humid, which can create the perfect breeding ground for disease.
Hardening Off Tender Plants
Frost-tender plants like beans, tomatoes, melons, chilis, squash, and basil are popular spring options, but they can’t usually be put outside until well after the risk of frost has passed.
For those with a short growing season, that presents a serious problem. It’s hard to grow a chili that needs 150 days to mature if your typical frost-free growing season is only 120 days long.
Cold frames can extend your growing season by weeks, giving you the time you need to let your plants mature.
When you harden plants off, you aren’t leaving them in the structure permanently. It’s just a temporary stop on the way to life in the great outdoors.
Determining how long a plant needs to mature depends on what you’re growing, but the gist is that the seedlings should be about to the point where you’d put them outside normally.
That means you’ll need to start the whole process well in advance of when you normally would. As a general rule of thumb, start a month sooner than usual.
But instead of plopping your starts in the ground, you can put the containers in the cold frame first.
If needed, you can cover the cold frame with a blanket to protect the plants from getting too much sun during the hottest parts of the day, and you can open the lid during periods of good weather.
Once the threat of frost has passed, go ahead and transplant your starts into their permanent spots in the ground.
Starting Seeds
If you don’t have a good spot for starting seeds indoors, or you just want to keep the mess outside, you can also start seeds right in your cold frame.
You can do this at any time of year, but the spring is particularly perfect.
Don’t try to start seeds that need warm soil temperatures to germinate. Chilis, tomatoes, basil, and other heat-loving plants won’t germinate until the ground is warm.
But seeds that don’t mind a chilly environment will start perfectly well in a frame before the last predicted frost date.
Remember, the soil temperature in your frame is likely about 10 degrees higher than that in the outside environment.
So a seed that requires 45°F minimum to germinate can be started in the cold frame even when the outside soil temperature is only 35°F.
You’ll want to use seed-starting trays or pots so you can move your seedlings out of the cold frame and into the soil when the time comes.
Caring for Your Plants
Of course, the specific care your plants require is going to depend on the individual species, but there are some general guidelines you can follow to care for plants in a cold frame.
First, be mindful of humidity. It can become extremely humid inside that box, which can be a good or bad thing, depending on the species.
When possible, prop open the lid to let some of the humidity out.
The same goes for water. The soil in a cold frame tends to hold onto more water because it isn’t subject to the drying effects of wind. Be careful not to overwater your plants.
Keep a super close eye out for damping off, wilting, yellowing leaves, fungal spores, or other signs of disease.
Spring can be a strange time of year. One day it’s freezing and the next day it’s boiling hot. On those super warm days, be sure to open up the lid. It can quickly turn into an oven inside.
It can help to keep a thermometer in your frame to help you keep an eye on the temperature.
Put the “Magic Box” to Work in the Spring
Cold frames are so cool. When everyone else is champing at the bit in the spring to get their garden started, you can be weeks into growing.
Any seeds you start indoors can have a huge head start.
Combined with using your cold frame in the fall, you can truly extend your growing season by at least two months.
May through September and that’s it? Not for you. You’ll be able to raise plants from April through October.
What will you cultivate in your cold frame? Tell us all about it in the comments.
If you’re curious about more ways to extend the growing season, we have lots of guides to help you on your way. Consider checking out the following next:
While we’re restlessly awaiting spring’s arrival to get back outside into the garden, now’s the perfect time to kick off this year’s planting season by starting seeds indoors. It’s easier than you think, cost-effective and immensely gratifying!
Why Start Your Own Seeds?
Along with the gratification that comes with growing your garden “from scratch,” benefits of starting your own seeds include:
More variety than your local garden center. Even the most well-stocked places may not include the specific plant/plant variety you want.
Healthier plants. Everything is under your control – you can ensure seed sources, growing medium, light, moisture – all aspects for optimum growing conditions.
Heirloom varieties. When it comes to vegetables, most heirlooms produce better flavor and higher nutritional value. You’ll find varieties you won’t find in most garden centers, plus you’ll be maintaining an important part of agricultural history.
Expansion of the selection of certain crops to grow, especially those that need a longer growing season than our area provides. Seeds can be started earlier indoors than outside, extending the growing season.
Cost-savings. Whether you just want to have fresh herbs at your fingertips for meal prep, love the look of a particular heirloom bloom or are considering a sizable enough garden to offset your weekly grocery spending, starting plants from seeds are significantly more cost-effective than purchasing plants and produce.
What Are the Easiest Seeds to Start Indoors?
While most seeds can be started indoors, there are some plants that are more sensitive to being transplanted and do better when seeded directly into the garden. These include: root vegetables such as carrots, beets, and radishes and some cool weather crops like peas, and lettuces. Seeds of fast growers like squash, zucchini and beans also do better when sown directly into the garden soil.
Long season crops, like eggplants, okra, tomatoes, broccoli and kale are some of the easiest seeds to start indoors, and benefit from the longer growing times this affords. Other easy seeds include marigold, coleus, zinnia, brussels sprouts and cauliflower.
What You Need to Start Seeds Indoors
Like most living things, seeds need the right environment in which to set down roots and grow, plus water and – once they sprout – light. It may come as a surprise to learn that most seeds don’t need light to sprout, but they DO need light to grow once they’ve sprouted. Some exceptions to this rule include coleus, begonias and primulas, whose seeds require light to sprout. You’ll find such information on the seed packet.
Seed Containers – you can purchase something made specifically for growing seeds like Jiffy peat pots or utilize items like K-cups, yogurt containers, or plastic clamshell berry containers to start your seeds in. Make sure to make holes in the bottom of containers for drainage if none exist.
Growing Medium – Two options include potting soil or seed starting mix. Seed mix is finer in texture than potting soil and is especially lightweight to allow tender sprouts to break through more easily. It contains elements like peat moss, coconut coir, vermiculite, and perlite. Potting soil is denser, with a coarser texture, and often contains actual soil along with compost vermiculite, peat moss and sometimes fertilizer.
Ideally, seed mix is used for germinating and once it reaches the seedling stage, is transferred to potting soil. There’s no harm is setting seeds directly into potting soil – they’ll just have to work harder to push through the denser medium – but check to see if there’s fertilizer included in the mix. A small amount won’t negatively impact the seedlings, but too much (typically found with artificial fertilizers) can burn delicate seedlings.
Carefully read the label before you purchase any growing medium, since they can go by different (and confusing) names. Potting mix, and soil-less mix are other names for seeding mix. The best way to determine what you’re buying is to check the ingredients – potting soil will include soil, sand or compost. Seed mix will not include any of these.
Light – Adequate light is critical for seedling growth. A southern-facing window may provide good light but be careful of cold air drafts. Rotate seedlings to encourage even plant growth. If light isn’t sufficient, consider getting a grow light. Flexible grow lights allow you to keep the light close enough to the seedling, so it doesn’t get spindly, and flexible enough to accommodate its growth.
Heat – Ideal temperatures for growing seeds is between 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you keep your home’s temperature below that, consider a heat mat for your seedlings. Heat mats provide stable, optimum heat and work especially well for tomatoes, melons and peppers.
You can also create a warm, greenhouse-like environment by placing trays of seeds in clear Sterilite-type containers, removing the cover as the house warms during the day and replacing it before the house cools off at night. You can also tent seedlings with clear plastic bags or the tops of clear plastic berry containers to trap and maintain the day’s heat overnight.
Moisture – Moisture is vital for seed germination, but too much moisture in young seedlings can cause “damping off.” Seedlings will appear healthy one day, then quickly wither and collapse. According to the University of Minnesota Extension, “The fungi, Rhizoctonia spp. and Fusarium spp., along with the water mold Pythiumspp, are the most common pathogens responsible for damping off.” This most often occurs when humidity exceeds 85%. Cold, wet soil makes seedlings especially susceptible to damping off. Try watering from the bottom and only water enough to keep some moisture for the day – avoid soaking. Once seedlings grow enough to have a true set of leaves, damping off becomes less of a concern.
Seeds– Fresh seeds have a higher rate of germination, so make sure the seeds you purchase are packaged for sowing in the current year. Online seed resources typically update their websites during the winter, and you should start seeing seed catalogs arriving in January and through the winter months. Ordering early ensures you get the seeds you want before they sell out.
Once you have purchased seeds, maximize their shelf life by keeping them dry and in a cool, dark spot. Store them in airtight containers like seed envelopes or glass jars. You might consider adding a silica gel pack for added dryness assurance.
Seeds can be stored for up to one year without having it affect germination, and many seeds can still be viable longer than that. You can check seed viability by placing them in a container of water for 15 to 20 minutes. If the seeds sink, they’re good to plant. If they float, there’s a high chance they won’t sprout.
You can purchase seeds at your local garden center or online at these trusted seed companies:
Planting Your Seeds for Initial Indoor Growing
You should plant seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last average frost date. In our area, that’s between May 1-15.
Planting the seed at the right depth is important. You can find this information on most seed packets. A good rule of thumb is that the seed needs to be planted at a depth twice the diameter of the seed. Loosely pack soil into seed container so it’s not too compacted, discouraging root growth, then lightly water after planting.
Seed Leaves vs. True Leaves
The first tiny set of leaves you see after a seed germinates are called Cotyledons, or seed leaves. They are part of the seed itself and appear when the seed sprouts, storing food for the seedling until the true leaves are established enough to perform photosynthesis.
Common Problems
Damping off (sudden wilting) – As noted earlier, soil that is too wet, or too damp and cold can cause fungus to grow that will kill the seedling, called “damping off.” If this happens, quickly remove the affected seedling to avoid fungal spread.
Ensure containers have adequate drainage
Don’t overwater
Water from the bottom
Ensure seedlings have a warm, draft-free environment
Leggy plants/spindly growth
Insufficient light – Particularly in our northern climate, insufficient light is a common cause of these issues. Consider adding supplemental grow lighting.
Cramped spacing – As seedlings begin to grow, they can compete for light when they’re too close together. Space them further apart to avoid resource competition.
Too much heat– If you’re using a heat mat, you may need to lower the temp a bit. High temperatures can cause rapid growth, leading to leggy plants.
Poor Root Development
Poor drainage– Make sure your container has adequate drainage and that you don’t overwater.
Compact soil – Soil that is packed too tightly will make it difficult for tender seedlings to grow strong roots. Keep soil loose and light.
Low temperature– Chilly soil inhibits root growth. Make sure the soil is adequately warm and free from drafts – a common issue when placed by windows.
There’s a level of satisfaction you feel when you complete a project on your home without any help. For instance, installing some new shelves or building a backyard firepit are rewarding projects. But eventually, homeowners may need or want to make some upgrades to their electrical systems. To keep you and your home safe, read about five reasons why you should hire an electrician when embarking on these types of projects.
1. Personal Safety
One of the biggest risks of doing your own electrical work is that you risk personal injury. If you’re not familiar with your system, you put yourself at risk of shocks, burns, and electrocution. Even when trying to access your wiring, you may experience cuts, bruises, and other injuries.
2. Home Safety
Many of the problems you may run into when doing your own electrical work can just as easily happen to your home. Faulty wiring may cause electrical fires, and improper connections may shut down your power. You can take care of your home by hiring a professional.
3. Save Money
One of the reasons why you should hire an electrician is because the cost of hiring a professional may wind up less than what you spend on equipment, tools, and other necessities to try and do the work yourself. If anything goes wrong, you may end up paying more than you anticipated.
4. Save Time
Even some of the most common home electrical upgrades require planning, shopping, and the work to finish them. And sometimes, you may not have time for that. Hiring a professional allows you to do what you need to do while saving yourself some time and hassle.
5. Quality Work
Once the electrician finishes their work, you can rest easy knowing that you let a professional take care of it. If you experience any issues, you can call the company to come to make it right rather than shoulder that burden yourself. Hiring an electrician can take a lot off your plate and leave you feeling confident that your task is up to high standards of quality.
Welcome to a big roundup of family-friendly spring puns and spring jokes, all designed to put a smile on your face.
If you’re looking for fun ways to celebrate spring, or just want to keep the kids happy, this is a great list to explore.
We’ve got spring jokes for kids, spring puns, spring dad jokes, and jokes for spring silliness. And if you’re sharing spring posts on social media, there are some great spring captions for instagram and TikTok too (our copy and paste lists of nature hashtagswill also come in handy).
Silly spring jokes for kids
Ready to dive into some jokes for spring? These spring jokes for kids will raise a laugh.
What season is best for trampolining? Spring!
How excited was the gardener about spring? So excited, he wet his plants.(our lists of garden puns and plant puns have more green-fingered humour to enjoy)
What’s the best day of the year to monkey around with your friends? Ape-ril Fool’s Day.
What do you call a bear caught in a spring shower? A drizzly bear.
How do you make a pogo stick out of plants? You use spring onions.
What do you say when it’s raining chickens and ducks in April? This is foul spring weather.
What goes up when the rain comes down in spring? An umbrella.
More jokes for spring season
How can you tell the weather’s getting warmer? There’s a spring in people’s step.
What herb is the freshest in April? Spring-thyme.
What did summer say to spring? Help – I’m going to fall!
Why are oak trees so forgiving? Every Spring they turn over a new leaf.
What do you call an emergency in spring? May Day.
What dog particularly enjoys the sight of daffodils? A spring-er spaniel.
Silly jokes about spring
To be honest, all of these spring jokes are silly, but these few top the list!
What did the tree say during springtime? “Well, this is a re-leaf!” (there are more tree-themed jokes in our list of tree puns)
How do you plant a kiss in spring? With two lips.
When is it impossible to plant spring flowers? When you haven’t botany.
How do you announce to someone that winter is coming to an end? You spring it on them.
Why is spring a great season to get into good habits? It’s the perfect time to turn over a new leaf.
What did the first thunderstorm of the year say? Hail to the spring!
Spring dad jokes
Expect some groans when you tell the kids these spring dad jokes.
What do you get when you push Easter eggs down a hill? Spring rolls.
Why is spring a great time to start a gardening business? Because it’s the season when you can really rake in the cash.
What is spring’s favourite kind of pickles? Daffo-dills.
What is a spring chick after it is five months old? Six months old.
How does spring move around? Spring rolls.
I hate spring cleaning. The things bounce all over the place.
Funny spring jokes about months
There are lots of great jokes about spring months – here are our favourites.
Which month of the year is the shortest? May – it only has three letters.
What can you find in the middle of April and March, but not at the beginning or end of either? The letter R!
Why is April so clean? Because it always showers.
When do monkeys fall from the sky? During Ape-ril showers.
Does February like March? No, but April may.
Which month can’t make a decision? May-be.
Why are people always tired in April? Because they just finished a March.
What month always asks questions and permission? May!
Spring knock-knock jokes
Kids love knock knock jokes, so here are a few on a spring theme.
Knock, knock! Who’s there? Beezer. Beezer who? Beezer buzzing, it must be spring!
Knock knock. Who’s there? Butter. Butter who? Butter bring an umbrella, it’s a spring shower!
Knock knock. Who’s there? March. March who? Bless you!
Knock, knock! Who’s there? Spring lamb. Spring lamb who? No, lambs don’t moo, they baa!
Knock Knock! Who’s there? June. June who? June know any good knock knock jokes?
Spring flower jokes
If you love these funny jokes about spring flowers make sure you check out our list of flower jokes.
How can you tell spring flowers are friendly? They always have new buds.
Why couldn’t the flower ride a bike on the first day of spring? It didn’t have petals yet.
How do new spring flowers greet each other? “Hey, bud!”
What gift does April bring May? Flowers.
What did the florist say when it was springtime? Business is blooming!
Should I plant flowers in April? May as well!
Spring puns and spring captions for instagram
Perk up your social posts with these cute spring instagram captions.
I lilac springtime
Sunshine is the best medicine
I haven’t botany spring flowers
Not a daisy goes by where I don’t think of spring
Never stop be-leafing
Spring is everything I wanted it to bee (we’ve got lots more bee puns to get you buzzing)
Having the spring-time of my life
Live life in full bloom
Springing into action
I be-leaf in you
Daffodils spring to mind
It’s spring, I’m so re-leafed
More silly spring puns
Ready for some ridiculous spring puns? This selection are all brilliant for a spring-themed play on words.
Spring it on
That’s a-May-zing
I’m not dande-lyin’
Turn over a new leaf
The best spring I ever had
Put the petal to the metal
A bud omen
I don’t want to miss a spring
More puns for spring giggles
Just pollen your leg
Spring the changes
Too much of a good spring
Blooming marvellous
Having a spring-along
Throw your hat into the spring
Here comes the sunflowers
What a re-leaf
You’re my favourite off-spring
Last, bud not least
Having an egg-cellent spring
A spring of beauty is a joy forever
Have you enjoyed these spring puns and spring jokes for kids?
Hopefully these spring puns and funny spring jokes have made you laugh and given you lots of amusing ways to celebrate the wonderful season of spring. For more seasonal funnies head over to our lists of fall puns, halloween jokes for kids, and christmas jokes for kids.
Are you planning a holiday right now? If you’re looking for a family-friendly destination that offers year-round sunshine, it’s definitely worth considering holidays in Tenerife.
Tenerife is one of the Canary Islands, and is located off the northwest coast of Africa in the Atlantic ocean. The mild winter climate and glorious summer temperatures make it a popular holiday destination all year round.
The popularity of this volcanic island can make the main tourist areas quite busy at times. However, there are lots of places off the beaten track where you can get away from the crowds and immerse yourself in the wealth of character that Tenerife has to offer.
If you’re researching holidays in Tenerife and starting to think about an itinerary, here are five small towns in Tenerife you should definitely consider adding to your bucket list.
El Médano
El Médano boasts the most searches by Spanish people for small towns in Tenerife, and for good reason.
Sitting on the island’s south coast, this small town is very relaxed and its look and feel is very Spanish. There’s a cafe culture which is well-suited to families and anyone looking for a holiday away from the nightlife.
El Médano has beautiful natural sand beaches which are perfect for seaside fun with the kids. They are also well-known as a great place for windsurfing and kite surfing.
Garachico
Garachico is Tenerife’s first port and was built in the fifteenth century. It’s one of the oldest towns in the Canary Islands.
As you would expect, the town is steeped in history, and there’s an abundance of architecture and art to discover, including a museum, castle and monument.
The town was devastated by a volcanic eruption in 1706, which destroyed the harbour and almost everything else. The harbour is now home to lava-sculpted rock pools which are well worth a visit.
Bajamar
Situated at the north of the island, Bajamar is a tranquil little town that is pretty much untouched by tourism. It’s a coastal town, but it’s also at the foot of the Anaga mountain range, making it ideal for beach lovers, hiking fans and nature enthusiasts alike.
The main attraction in Bajamar is the natural pools. There are two large pools and a smaller one for children, all filled with seawater and manned by lifeguards. Next to the pools you’ll find Playa Bajamar, where you’ll be able to enjoy the spectacle of big waves crashing in – it’s a great spot for some photos.
Vilaflor
If you like the idea of exploring a small town from one of the busier centres, Vilaflor is a good option. It’s less than an hour’s drive from Playa de Las Americas, and is rich in cultural heritage.
Vilaflor is situated within the Corona Forestal National Park, so you can expect a relaxed vibe and rural landscapes all around. The town sits at the base of Mount Teide, allowing you to easily combine a visit with a trip to this famous volcano.
Los Silos
With less than 5,000 inhabitants, Los Silos is a pretty town in the northwest of the island which definitely delivers on local culture. It’s not far from Garachico, so you can combine a visit to both towns in a single trip.
Here you’ll find nature reserves and stunning views of the Teno mountains alongside the awe-inspiring ocean. Los Silos is loved by watersports fans and hikers, but you can also simply wander around the cobbled streets, enjoy the architecture, and explore the farmer’s market.
As you can see, there is a lot more to holidays in Tenerife than just the main tourist spots. By adding some of these small towns to your itinerary you can escape the crowds and have fun discovering all that Tenerife has to offer. Have we inspired you to add Tenerife to your list of holiday destinations?
ujamaa seeds, with bonnetta adeeb
Bonnetta: Yes. So it’s interesting that my family, along with many other families fled the South. My family fled the South by night because of Jim Crow and repressive activities in the South, but not everything… We took some things with us, but one of the things that we really did not seem to take as a people was the seed, the knowledge of seed and seed varieties. And it seemed to get lost along the wayside, even families that have been farming for hundreds of years still seem to have lost the connection to those heritage varieties.
Bonnetta: Right. So that’s why those seeds are kind of rare. We didn’t have a lot of them, but we felt that this story as we go trace our roots backward, literally [laughter], and as we look toward the past, we find this tremendous implications for future. Because with a drought, with all the problems related to weather, food that provides hydration is going to be super-important in the future.
Bonnetta: So, Margaret, I think that this is the story of greens is so important. I think that greens are completely tied to the identity of Ujamaa because the story of those collards is a story of one of the reasons why Africans ended up in this country in the first place is because of their knowledge of farming, their skills, and growing in all kinds of climates and conditions. And so when we hear the stories of how peas were braided into the hair and put in people’s garments, amulets around their neck. So we got okra, and peas came across also on slave ships with African people, because they needed food that they could recognize.
Margaret: And I just want to encourage people, regardless of where they’re gardening, to give some of these different greens a try. Because I know for me, I didn’t know anything about collards 30 or 35 years ago, and there I was growing them, and they’re amazing and productive and cold-tolerant toward the end of the season. They stand, even in my northern area. I mean, they don’t do as well over the whole winter like they would in a fairer climate, but you know what I mean? You learn so much in the deliciousness and the different tastes within “greens.”
