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  • Rebecca’s Garden and Greenhouse in Ohio – Fine Gardening

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    Hi GPODers!

    So far this winter we’ve enjoyed the many ways people continue to garden during the colder months. Some folks have gardens that fill with winter blooms (Margot’s Winter Garden Interest in Washington), others turn their attention to houseplant collections (Jen’s Indoor Plant Obsession and Leni’s Propagations and Inherited Houseplants). Today, Rebecca Combs (@greenhorselife) in Bellbrook, Ohio (Zone 6b), is sharing the greenhouse that allows her to enjoy plants and garden activities year-round as well as the raised beds that receive the fruits of her spring laboring.

    All photos here are my own from my garden and greenhouse in Bellbrook, Ohio. It’s a Hartley Botanic Grand Victorian Manor that we’ve had for three years now. Only last year we added the trellises with espalier pear and apple trees. My father had a green thumb, and I’ve tried to follow in his footsteps over the last 30 years with my own backyard garden. I’m working toward my Master Gardener certification and have always enjoyed dahlias. I start seeds in the greenhouse every spring and will fill the raised beds. Every fall, I collect the tubers and store them for the next year. I compete in local flower shows, and my red and white dinner plate dahlia was a winner!

    Happened to catch a hot air balloon over our greenhouse around Christmastime two years ago. The live pine was planted in the spring after the holidays.

    Aerial view of raised beds and greenhouseAerial view of raised beds

    inside garden greenhouseInterior showing shelving

    yellow Angels trumpetThe bright yellow blooms of Rebecca’s golden angel’s trumpet (Brugmansia aurea, Zones 9–11) match the golden spines on the tiny cactus on the windowsill in the background.

    Cattleya orchidRebecca has a fascinating collection of tropical plants, including this Cattleya orchid with the most vibrant flowers.

    My Hero dahliaRebecca’s award-winning ‘My Hero’ dahlia (Dahlia ‘My Hero’, Zones 8–11) bloom

    pink and white dahliaAnother lovely dahlia: It sounds like Rebecca grows a great assortment of cultivars with the help of her greenhouse.

    bright yellow iceplantWhile some varieties of ice plant are among the few cold-hardy succulents, there are other species that still require a warmer climate. Thankfully, Rebecca doesn’t need to choose and can enjoy these bright blossoms even when there is snow on the ground.

    Echeveria budsLastly, an echeveria with a cluster of beautiful pink buds getting ready to bloom.

    Thank you so much for sharing your gorgeous gardens and greenhouse with us, Rebecca! I’m blown away by the diverse array of plants you’ve collected in your greenhouse as well as the stunning blooms you grow in your raised beds.

    Do you utilize a greenhouse in your garden? Maybe you have a greenhouse like Rebecca’s, which is an investment in beauty as well as productivity. Maybe you have a rudimentary structure that isn’t glamorous but serves an important purpose, or maybe you have one of those temporary greenhouses (like I do) that can be put away when it’s not needed. We would love to see how you utilize your year-round garden structure. Let us know in the comments or consider sharing photos of your greenhouse with the blog. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • 35 of the Best Bush Bean Varieties to Grow at Home

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    Filet Cultivars

    Compared to snap beans, filet beans are slimmer, and are usually prepared whole instead of cutting into pieces.

    A close up of a large wicker basket overflowing with green bush beans at a farmer's market with various other vegetables in soft focus in the background.

    Also called haricot verts or French filet beans, these tend to be very tender and make excellent side dishes.

    10. Beananza

    ‘Beananza’ was developed by Burpee to be an abundant producer of tender, stringless filet beans. Delectable seven-inch pods are dark green and fiberless.

    Small plants reach just 15 inches in height, perfect for container growing – and if picked regularly, they will keep producing for far longer than other cultivars.

    A close up square image of freshly harvested 'Beananza' pods set in a wooden bowl.A close up square image of freshly harvested 'Beananza' pods set in a wooden bowl.

    ‘Beananza’

    ‘Beananza’ comes to maturity in 55 days.

    You can find ‘Beananza’ seeds available exclusively at Burpee.

    11. Desperado

    This heavy yielding cultivar may make you want to hum a classic rock tune while you’re in the garden – but ‘Desperado’ will not leave you feeling desperate for bush beans.

    It will keep on giving and giving loads of delicious, dark green filet pods throughout the summer.

    These slim haricot verts are five and a half inches long, straight, and have brown seeds.

    Upright plants grow 12 to 15 inches tall, and have a high tolerance to mosaic virus.

    A square image of freshly harvested 'Desperado' beans set on a white surface.A square image of freshly harvested 'Desperado' beans set on a white surface.

    ‘Desperado’

    ‘Desperado’ is also highly heat tolerant, and will come to maturity in 55 days.

    You can find packets containing 200 seeds available at Burpee.

    12. Masai

    ‘Masai’ is an heirloom haricot vert that’s perfect for container gardening or small spaces.

    This open-pollinated French variety is disease resistant and reliable, producing slender green pods with white seeds.

    ‘Masai’ provides a harvest of stringless, four-inch-long “baby” filet bush beans that are tender, tasty, and easy to pick.

    Small, compact plants reach 12 inches in height.

    A close up of the bright green Phaseolus vulgaris 'Masai' beans set on a white surface. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.A close up of the bright green Phaseolus vulgaris 'Masai' beans set on a white surface. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

    ‘Masai’

    Since plants are on the small side, they are not as high yielding as some other varieties, but the tradeoff is that they make excellent potted plants.

    Plants are resistant to mosaic virus, bacterial brown spot, and curly top virus.

    ‘Masai’ matures very early, providing a harvest in just 47 days.

    You can find ‘Masai’ seeds for purchase in packets of various sizes at True Leaf Market.

    13. Mascotte

    If you’re looking for a filet bush bean to grow in containers or small spaces, but want pods a bit larger than the baby filets that ‘Masai’ produces, ‘Mascotte’ is an excellent choice.

    A close up of a wicker basket with Phaseolus vulgaris in bright sunshine set on a wooden surface.A close up of a wicker basket with Phaseolus vulgaris in bright sunshine set on a wooden surface.

    In fact, ‘Mascotte’ even won over All-America Selection judges, who awarded it the prize for best new edible variety in 2014.

    ‘Mascotte’ is open-pollinated, and produces abundant harvests of six-inch-long filet beans in just 50 to 55 days.

    The green pods from this award winner are stringless, crunchy, and very tasty.

    Compact plants grow 16 to 20 inches tall, and hold pods above their foliage, making picking easy.

    Once the plants start producing, harvest every two to four days.

    A close up of a small terra cotta rectangular container with a Phaseolus vulgaris 'Mascotte' bean plant in flower. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo and text.A close up of a small terra cotta rectangular container with a Phaseolus vulgaris 'Mascotte' bean plant in flower. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo and text.

    ‘Mascotte’

    This variety also has excellent disease resistance, standing up well against anthracnose, mosaic virus, and halo blight.

    You can find ‘Mascotte’ seeds for purchase at True Leaf Market, in packs of 1,000 or 10,000 seeds.

    14. Maxibel

    ‘Maxibel is a French heirloom that comes with the advantage of performing well in cool soils.

    This open-pollinated variety produces generous yields of tender, thin, filet style bush beans that are typically picked when they are six to eight inches long.

    Pods have an intense flavor. They are green with dark seeds, and stringless if picked young and often.

    A square image of 'Maxibel' pods set on a wooden surface.A square image of 'Maxibel' pods set on a wooden surface.

    ‘Maxibel’

    Plants grow to 15 to 20 inches in height, and reach maturity in 65 days.

    You can find seeds in a variety of packet sizes available at High Mowing Organic Seeds.

    15. Triomphe de Farcy

    Maybe container gardening isn’t your thing and what you really want is an early maturing filet style bush bean. If so, let me introduce you to ‘Triomphe de Farcy.’

    This is an open-pollinated French heirloom – sometimes called ‘Triumph de Farcy’ – that matures early and produces an abundant and flavorful crop.

    Its pods are green and sometimes streaked with purple. They are slender, crunchy, and stringless when picked young.

    Pods should be picked often, when they are three to six inches in length, for best texture and flavor.

    A close up square image of a pile of 'Triomphe de Farcy' pods in a wooden bowl.A close up square image of a pile of 'Triomphe de Farcy' pods in a wooden bowl.

    ‘Triomphe de Farcy’

    Plants have general disease resistance and reach 15 to 20 inches in height. You’ll be harvesting ‘Triomphe de Farcy’ beans in just 48 days.

    ‘Triomphe de Farcy’ seeds can be purchased in 2-ounce packets at Burpee.

    Long Podded Cultivars

    To contrast with the somewhat diminutive filet cultivars, I’m now going to explore the opposite end of the bush bean spectrum – varieties with particularly long pods.

    A close up of green bush beans washed but not trimmed, set on a wicker surface.A close up of green bush beans washed but not trimmed, set on a wicker surface.

    While they may not be as long as Chinese long beans, these long-podded varieties can give you more bean for your buck – and still have that familiar green bean taste.

    16. Big Kahuna

    ‘Big Kahuna’ is a bit of a paradox. It produces the largest pods of the 35 varieties presented here – yet these mammoth bush beans hang from compact plants that easily adapt to containers.

    ‘Big Kahuna’ produces green snaps that can reach a monster length of 11 inches, while still remaining crisp and tender and keeping their delicious, nutty flavor.

    Compact plants grow to 24 inches in height.

    A close up of a wooden bowl containing freshly picked Phaseolus vulgaris 'Big Kahuna' pods with foliage in the background in soft focus.A close up of a wooden bowl containing freshly picked Phaseolus vulgaris 'Big Kahuna' pods with foliage in the background in soft focus.

    ‘Big Kahuna’

    ‘Big Kahuna’ will come to maturity in 57 days after planting.

    You can find ‘Big Kahuna’ seeds in two and eight-ounce packets exclusively at Burpee.

    17. Blue Lake 274

    Brace yourself to be knocked out by this super producer. ‘Blue Lake 274’ is an open-pollinated variety that gives an extra heavy yield of long snaps.

    The sweet tasting six- to eight-inch pods are green and tender.

    A close up of a packet of 'Blue Lake 274' seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.A close up of a packet of 'Blue Lake 274' seeds with text to the left of the frame and a hand-drawn illustration to the right.

    ‘Blue Lake 274’

    Plants are compact, growing to 18 inches tall, and maturing in 58 days.

    You can find ‘Blue Lake 274’ seeds available at Botanical Interests.

    18. Jade

    In addition to its tasty, long pods, ‘Jade’ has so much going for it. This heirloom is open-pollinated and tolerant to stress, heat, and cold. It is also disease resistant and very productive.

    ‘Jade’ produces slender, seven-inch-long, dark green pods that are straight, crisp, and tender – and enclose pale green seeds.

    This is a popular variety among gardeners, with an excellent flavor and texture that holds up beautifully to canning.

    Although plants are resistant to cool temperatures, like most other beans, they require warm soils for the best rates of germination.

    A close up of the fresh green Phaseolus vulgaris 'Jade' beans.A close up of the fresh green Phaseolus vulgaris 'Jade' beans.

    ‘Jade’

    Plants are strong and upright with beans held off the ground, making picking easy.

    ‘Jade’ is resistant to bean mosaic virus, curly top virus, bacterial brown spot, and rust.

    This variety reaches maturity in 57 days.

    You can find ‘Jade’ seeds available at High Mowing Organic Seeds.

    19. Kentucky Wonder 125

    If ‘Jade’ sounds great but you just can’t wait 57 days, how about an earlier maturing variety for your crop of long-podded snap beans?

    ‘Kentucky Wonder 125’ is an open-pollinated heirloom that will give you an early and prolific harvest in just 48 to 50 days.

    A close up square image of freshly harvested 'Kentucky Wonder 125' beans set on the ground outside.A close up square image of freshly harvested 'Kentucky Wonder 125' beans set on the ground outside.

    ‘Kentucky Wonder 125’

    Pods are seven to eight inches long and flat, with a medium green color and white seeds. These long snaps are tasty and they have a meaty texture.

    Plants grow to 16 inches tall and are resistant to mosaic virus and Northern leaf blight.

    You can find ‘Kentucky Wonder 125’ seeds at Eden Brothers.

    20. Top Crop

    ‘Top Crop’ is an early, low maintenance heirloom that won the All-America Selections Gold Medal in the edible category in 1950.

    Also known as ‘Topcrop,’ this open-pollinated variety produces heavy yields of seven-inch-long straight pods.

    Medium green pods are fiberless with a meaty texture, and very tasty.

    ‘Top Crop’ is a great all-purpose bush bean, making for delicious fresh eating, but also holding up beautifully to canning and freezing.

    A square image of 'Top Crop' beans in a big pile. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.A square image of 'Top Crop' beans in a big pile. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

    ‘Top Crop’

    Vigorous plants grow to 15 to 18 inches tall and are resistant to mosaic virus.

    An early maturing bush bean, ‘Top Crop’ will be ready to harvest in just 52 days.

    You can find ‘Top Crop’ seeds in a wide range of packet sizes available at True Leaf Market.

    Yellow Podded Cultivars

    We’re now stepping away from green bush beans for a while to consider some yellow podded varieties.

    A close up of a Phaseolus vulgaris bush with yellow beans surrounded by foliage pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.A close up of a Phaseolus vulgaris bush with yellow beans surrounded by foliage pictured in bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

    Commonly called “wax beans,” the yellow pods of these cultivars are easy to spot on green plants and keep their yellow coloring when cooked.

    21. Cherokee Wax

    Also known as ‘Cherokee,’ this heirloom open-pollinated variety was an All-America Selections Winner in 1948.

    It was developed at Clemson University in South Carolina and is well-loved for its productivity and vigor, as well as its delicious, stringless wax beans.

    Pods are colored light yellow with black seeds, and reach five to six inches in length.

    They are tasty, nutty, and tender, retaining their stringless quality even when mature.

    ‘Cherokee Wax’ makes for excellent fresh eating, but also cans and freezes well.

    A close up top down picture of Phaseolus vulgaris 'Cherokee Wax' pods set on a wooden surface pictured in bright sunshine.A close up top down picture of Phaseolus vulgaris 'Cherokee Wax' pods set on a wooden surface pictured in bright sunshine.

    ‘Cherokee Wax’

    Plants grow to 24 inches tall and can become somewhat viney, so make sure you give them enough room to sprawl.

    ‘Cherokee Wax’ is resistant to mosaic virus and comes to maturity in 58 days.

    You can find ‘Cherokee Wax’ seeds at Eden Brothers.

    22. Gold Mine

    ‘Gold Mine’ is an early maturing wax variety that grows in clusters, making picking even easier.

    This open-pollinated cultivar produces heavy yields of smooth, straight yellow snaps that hold white seeds.

    Pods are five to six inches long, sweet, crisp, and delicious whether eaten fresh or frozen.

    Plants are upright and compact, reaching 15 to 20 inches in height.

    ‘Gold Mine’ is resistant to bacterial brown spot, mosaic virus, and halo blight.

    A close up of a pile 'Gold Mine' bush beans freshly harvested and put in a metal dish, set on a wooden table.A close up of a pile 'Gold Mine' bush beans freshly harvested and put in a metal dish, set on a wooden table.

    ‘Gold Mine’

    You’ll be ready to harvest your ‘Gold Mine’ crop in 55 days after planting.

    You can find ‘Gold Mine’ seeds in a variety of packet sizes available at Burpee.

    23. Gold Rush Wax

    ‘Gold Rush Wax’ is an open-pollinated reliable grower whose beans hold well in the garden – and in the fridge.

    This cultivar produces high yields of slender, straight pods that mature in 54 days.

    Light yellow pods are five and a half inches long, crisp, and tasty.

    A close up of freshly picked Phaseolus vulgaris 'Gold Rush Wax' in a wicker basket. To the bottom right of the frame is a black circular logo and text.A close up of freshly picked Phaseolus vulgaris 'Gold Rush Wax' in a wicker basket. To the bottom right of the frame is a black circular logo and text.

    ‘Gold Rush Wax’

    Plants grow to 16 to 20 inches tall and are resistant to mosaic virus, curly top virus, root rot, and bacterial brown spot.

    You can find ‘Gold Rush Wax’ seeds for purchase in a variety of packet sizes at True Leaf Market.

    24. Golden Wax

    ‘Golden Wax’ is a productive, stringless wax bush bean that is also early to mature – ready to harvest in just 50 days.

    This open-pollinated variety produces bright yellow snaps that grow to four to five inches in length, and have a tasty, buttery flavor.

    Plants have an upright habit and reach 16 to 18 inches tall with a minimal spread, ideal for container gardening.

    A close up square image of a pile of 'Golden Wax' pods in a wooden bowl set on a wooden table.A close up square image of a pile of 'Golden Wax' pods in a wooden bowl set on a wooden table.

    ‘Golden Wax’

    ‘Golden Wax’ is resistant to mosaic virus and rust.

    You can find ‘Golden Wax’ seeds in an assortment of packet sizes available at Eden Brothers.

    25. Pencil Pod Wax

    Here’s an heirloom that’s been proving itself since 1900. ‘Pencil Pod Wax’ is a heavy producer that’s early maturing and disease resistant.

    This open-pollinated variety produces abundant harvests of straight pods that reach five to seven inches in length.

    ‘Pencil Pod Wax’ is known for its tasty yellow snaps that are stringless and tender. They contain black seeds.

    Plants reach 20 inches in height, and are resistant to mosaic virus and powdery mildew.

    A square image of 'Pencil Pod' beans in a wooden tray.A square image of 'Pencil Pod' beans in a wooden tray.

    ‘Pencil Pod Wax’

    ‘Pencil Pod Wax’ will give you your first of multiple crops in 52 days.

    You can find ‘Pencil Pod Wax’ seeds for purchase in a variety of packet sizes at Eden Brothers.

    Purple Podded Cultivars

    If you like the idea of adding some unexpected color to your garden, purple-podded bush beans are a wonderful addition, both as an edible and an ornamental option.

    A close up of a hand from the right of the frame holding a handful of purple bush beans in the bright sunshine on a soft focus background.A close up of a hand from the right of the frame holding a handful of purple bush beans in the bright sunshine on a soft focus background.

    These plants have lovely purple flowers as well.

    Just like wax beans, purple podded bush beans stand out from their green foliage, making them easier to see for picking.

    And while your harvest will be purple hued, when cooked these beans turn green.

    26. Amethyst

    ‘Amethyst’ is an open-pollinated variety that produces attractive filet style bush beans that are tasty both raw and cooked.

    A close up of a terra cotta bowl with purple beans that have been washed but not trimmed set on a dark wooden surface. To the right of the bowl is dark green foliage.A close up of a terra cotta bowl with purple beans that have been washed but not trimmed set on a dark wooden surface. To the right of the bowl is dark green foliage.

    Flavorful purple pods are five to five and a half inches long, thin, straight, and stringless, and they hold tan seeds.

    Plants are upright, medium sized, and have excellent resistance to mosaic virus.

    ‘Amethyst’ reaches maturity in 56 days.

    27. Purple Queen

    ‘Purple Queen’ has a combination of some of the best characteristics of all the bush beans in this list – it’s stringless, early maturing, productive, and disease resistant.

    Add to that impressive resume the fact that it’s a beautiful deep purple hue, and you may find this royal cultivar irresistible.

    ‘Purple Queen’ is an open-pollinated heirloom that produces tender, seven-inch-long snaps with a nice beany taste.

    A square image of a wooden bowl filled with 'Purple Queen' pods.A square image of a wooden bowl filled with 'Purple Queen' pods.

    ‘Purple Queen’

    Plants grow to 15 to 20 inches in height, have good general disease resistance, and are tolerant of cooler weather.

    ‘Purple Queen’ will be ready to harvest in just 52 days after planting.

    You can find ‘Purple Queen’ seeds for purchase in 2-ounce packets available at Burpee.

    28. Purple Teepee

    Despite its name, which might suggest a climber, ‘Purple Teepee’ is a bush variety.

    A close up of purple bush beans growing in the garden, surrounded by foliage on a soft focus background.A close up of purple bush beans growing in the garden, surrounded by foliage on a soft focus background.

    Open pollinated, it produces straight, slender, stringless snaps that are held above the plant for easy picking.

    The violet-colored pods should be picked at four to five inches long for the best flavor and texture.

    Highly productive plants reach 18 inches in height and come to maturity in 60 days.

    29. Royal Burgundy

    Living up to its lofty name, ‘Royal Burgundy’ is an overachiever. It has incredible disease and insect resistance, and is even able to germinate in cool soil.

    An open-pollinated heirloom introduced in 1976, this cultivar also goes by the names ‘Royal Purple Burgundy,’ ‘Royal Purple Pod,’ and ‘Royal Purple Podded.’

    This is an excellent variety for gardeners dealing with cool spring or early summer temperatures, to which it is very tolerant.

    Deep purple pods should be harvested at five inches or smaller, when they will be the most tender.

    A square image of a pile of 'Royal Burgundy' beans set on a yellow plate on a wooden surface.A square image of a pile of 'Royal Burgundy' beans set on a yellow plate on a wooden surface.

    ‘Royal Burgundy’

    Theses snaps contain tan seeds and they have a mild taste. Plants are dark green with purple tinted stems and petioles, reaching 24 inches in height.

    ‘Royal Burgundy’ stands up well to Mexican bean beetles, and has good resistance to mosaic virus, powdery mildew, and white mold.

    You’ll be gathering your harvest from this regal plant in 50 days.

    You can find ‘Royal Burgundy’ seeds available at High Mowing Organic Seeds.

    30. Velour

    Have you been waiting for a purple podded variety to grow in containers? ‘Velour’ is your bean!

    ‘Velour’ is an open-pollinated, heavy producer of four- to five-inch-long, stringless filet bush beans.

    A close up of purple Phaseolus vulgaris recently picked from the bush with foliage to the side.A close up of purple Phaseolus vulgaris recently picked from the bush with foliage to the side.

    Pods are straight and slender, with a beautiful royal purple color and beige seeds.

    These extra fine filet beans have a rich flavor and are excellent for eating fresh or freezing.

    Plants are upright, medium sized, and compact, ideal for container gardens.

    ‘Velour’ has high resistance to both mosaic virus and halo blight, and reaches maturity in 55 days.

    Romano Varieties

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    Kristina Hicks-Hamblin

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  • Creamy Earl Grey Infused Bergamot Soap Recipe – Garden Therapy

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    If you love the smell of Earl Grey tea as much as the taste, you’ll want to give this bergamot soap recipe a go! Infused with real tea and lavender, this creamy soap feels as luxurious as sipping a hot cup of tea on a crisp morning. For those who boil multiple cups a day, this tea soap is a must-try!

    Have you ever had a London fog before? Originally from Vancouver, it was invented in the 1980s by Mary Loria who would request the drink while pregnant.

    In the past couple of years, I see the drink listed at every café as its popularity grows. And I can’t get enough of it! It’s essentially an Earl Grey latte with a splash of vanilla syrup. And as I do with all my favourite things, I make soap out of it!

    For this soap, I combined my love for London fogs and Earl Grey tea with another herbal fave, lavender. Together, you get a delicious aroma and ultra-moisturizing soap that feels so silky on the skin.

    bergamot and lavender soap

    It looks as beautiful as it smells. Coloured 100% naturally with the herbs and tea, additional flecks of purple mica make this bergamot and lavender soap shine. On top, I added butterfly pea flower and lavender buds for the final pop of colour.

    So, if you’re the type of person to start your day off with a cuppa tea, you’re going to love this Earl grey inspired tea soap.

    This post covers…

    London fog soap

    How to Make London Fog Bergamot Soap

    People (including me!) go crazy over the scent of Earl Grey, so I had to make a soap inspired by the tea! Combined with lavender and the sweet, creamy aroma of benzoin resin, it smells just like a lavender London fog.

    If this is your first time making soap, find detailed instructions on how to make soap here before getting started. Then, come back to this post for this specific bergamot soap recipe.

    Materials

    bergamot soap recipe

    Ingredients

    For exact measurements, see the recipe card below.

    Jump to Recipe

    Infuse Oil

    Before you begin making your soap, you’ll want to infuse some of the oils. For this recipe, I infuse the Early Grey tea in some olive oil, and some dried lavender buds in the coconut oil. Do this in a double boiler over medium-low heat.

    Once melted, add in your Earl Grey tea bags to your olive oil, and 1 cup of lavender buds to your coconut oil, and turn the stovetop down to low. Let the oil infuse with the tea bags and lavender for a few hours or until the smell is aromatic.

    You can strain using a fine sieve first then a coffee filter or cheesecloth for a second time. Check out more on how to infuse oils with herbs.

    After you’ve infused the oils, you’re ready to make some soap!

    Note: You will infuse olive oil and coconut oil before weighing them for the recipe. If you weigh beforehand, you won’t have the right amount of oil for the recipe once you strain out the tea/lavender.

    DIY bergamot soap

    Make Your Bergamot Soap

    1. Weigh your ingredients. Heat your oils and shea butter over medium heat until you’ve reached 115°F.
    2. In a heatproof container, stir together your lye and water in a well-ventilated area. Stir until fully dissolved. Then, cool in an ice bath until it’s 115°F.
    3. When both the oils and lye water are at the right temperature, combine the lye into the oils in a large bowl. Mix with an immersion blender until you’ve reached a light trace.
    4. Add your bergamot essential oil, lavender essential oil, and benzoin resin. Blend again.
    5. Pour your soap into the soap mold. Sprinkle your purple mica powder on top. With a chopstick, mix your mica through to give the soap little purple flecks.
    6. Top the bars with butterfly pea flowers and lavender buds.
    7. Let your soap rest for 48 hours wrapped in a towel and set on top of the fridge.
    8. After 2 days, cut your soap into even bars. Let cure for 6 weeks in a cool, dark space.
    Earl Grey tea soap

    Frequently Asked Questions About Bergamot Soap

    Why does Earl Grey smell so good?

    Named after a British prime minister, Earl Grey, the tea is a mixture of black tea leaves either sprayed with bergamot extract or essential oil or mixed with bergamot rinds. So what you’re smelling is primarily bergamot oil! It’s slightly citrusy and floral, two very popular scents for the nose.

    Is bergamot good for skin?

    You can’t go wrong when it comes to bergamot and your skin. Full of antioxidants, bergamot fights against premature aging. The antibacterial properties also make it work as a natural cleanser to unclog pores and balance sebum (your skin’s natural oils). But perhaps its most well-known benefit for the skin is its ability to help with scarring, such as acne scars, stretch marks, and hyperpigmentation.

    Is Earl Grey good for skin?

    Also known as bergamot tea, Earl Grey is made from black tea leaves combined with fruit from the Citrus bergamia tree. Bergamot itself has plenty of health benefits, but most studies focus on essential oils rather than tea.

    Luckily, this soap recipe has bergamot essential oil as well as tea! You can get a double dose of bergamot benefits, such as antioxidants, cleansing properties, and scar healing.

    how to make bergamot soap

    If you love Earl Grey tea as much as I do, then you’ll want to make sure to make a batch of this bergamot soap. It smells just like the real thing! Let me know how it goes for you in the comments below.

    More Ways to Make Soap

    Creamy Earl Grey Infused Bergamot Soap Recipe

    Made with real Earl Grey tea, this creamy and beautiful bergamot soap recipe smells just like the real thing.

    • Make your infused oils, making more oil than you need for the recipe (you’ll lose some when it strains). Heat your olive oil over medium-low heat. Add in your tea bags and set to a simmer. After a few hours, strain your oil using a fine sieve and then again with a coffee filter or cheesecloth.

    • Repeat the same steps, this time infusing the coconut oil with lavender buds.

    • Weigh your ingredients for soap making.

    • Combine all the oils and shea butter over low heat until 115°F. While heating, add your lye to the water in a heatproof container. Stir until completely dissolved. Place in an ice bath until it also reaches 115°F.

    • In a large mixing bowl, add your lye water to your oils. Use an immersion blender to blend until it reaches a light trace.

    • Add in your essential oils and benzoin resin. Blend again.

    • Pour into a soap mold. Sprinkle the purple mica powder on top and use a chopstick to mix through the soap.

    • Sprinkle butterfly pea flowers and lavender buds on top.

    • Let soap rest for 48 hours wrapped in a towel.

    • After 48 hours, cut the soap and let it cure for 6 weeks in a cool, dark location.

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • 7 wheel alignment in Sheffield checks before Easter – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    Easter typically triggers increased car usage across Sheffield, encompassing school runs, family excursions, and regional travel. Wheel alignment is a key factor in keeping your car running smoothly, efficiently, and safely.
    If you’re feeling bumps or vibrations on your journey, Dexel Tyre & Auto Centre offers wheel alignment in Sheffield at great local prices, helping prevent misalignment that compromises directional accuracy, intensifies irregular tyre wear, and drives up fuel costs.

    Here are some tips to get your wheel alignment spot-on before the Easter period.

    man changing a car tyre

    1. Assess tyre wear patterns

    Tyres with uneven wear often indicate misalignment. According to TyreSafe UK, uneven tread can reduce braking performance by up to 20%, extending overall stopping distances. For family vehicles, even marginal losses in grip can materially affect emergency responses.

    2. Identify steering drift

    A vehicle that consistently drifts to one side on straight roads often signifies alignment deviation. The RAC reports that an estimated 7 million UK drivers encounter pothole damage annually, contributing to alignment issues that compromise handling precision.

    3. Ensure tyre pressures are within specification

    Correct tyre pressure underpins alignment performance. The UK Tyre Industry Federation states that tyres under‑inflated by 10% can increase fuel consumption by 3–4%, imposing avoidable operating costs over sustained journeys.

    4. Inspect following road hazards

    Minor impacts with potholes or kerbs can displace wheel alignment. RAC research shows that over 50% of UK drivers believe potholes have worsened in recent years, correlating with increased alignment and suspension complaints. Early inspection can minimise progressive tyre degradation.

    5. Verify camber and toe angles

    Camber and toe influence tyre contact with the road surface. Data from TyreSafe indicates that incorrect alignment settings can accelerate tyre wear by up to 25%, undermining grip and cornering stability – critical factors when transporting passengers or luggage.

    6. Maintain routine alignment intervals

    Industry practice recommends wheel alignment verification annually or every 12,000 miles. Regular assessments extend tyre service life and preserve predictable handling, particularly for family cars undertaking frequent short and long journeys during holiday periods.

    7. Integrate with tyre and brake monitoring

    Wheel alignment in Sheffield should be evaluated in tandem with tyre tread depth and brake performance. UK government data shows that around 6% of roadside MOT failures are attributable to tyre and brake issues – a compelling reason to integrate inspections rather than address alignment in isolation.

    Wheel alignment is an important maintenance factor that affects how the vehicle handles, fuel efficiency, and the lifespan of its parts – all of which are crucial for family‑oriented travel over Easter. Professional wheel alignment in Sheffield can mitigate handling variance, optimise tyre usage, and support safe, economical journeys.

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    Catherine

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  • The Walsh’s Demonstration Garden in Ontario, Part 2 – Fine Gardening

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    Hi GPODers!

    We have returned to Simcoe, Ontario, Canada today to enjoy more incredible plants and pairings in the garden of Linda and Terry Walsh. We enjoyed a sensational assortment of photos from their large and lively garden yesterday (Check out Part 1, if you missed it), and we’re back today to see more of the fabulous plant selections that make their “demonstration garden” a special place to visit.

    As mentioned earlier we have lived here for about 40 years and have been gardening extensively for the last 20 years. We have become a ‘Demonstration Garden” as people often want to know what plants look like full size and also wish to get landscaping ideas. We are open by appointment from June to September; it is a great way to meet fellow gardeners. Several years ago we put in electric gates which we designed with the Tree of Life in the centre. We are situated about 1000 feet from the road so the gates are not only security but do let people know when we are not available. We have over 175 rhododendrons, 50 + flowering dogwoods, hydrangeas, azaleas, viburnums, redbuds, Japanese maples, tulip trees, sassafras, paw paw and many other native trees. Children of all ages enjoy our koi pond, peacocks and border collies. We also grow organic brandy wine raspberries in our spare time, along with dahlias and numerous perennials.

    White Catawba rhododendron (Rhododendron ‘Catawbiense Album’Zones 4–8) with a cutleaf Japanese maple (Acer palmatum var. dissectum, Zones 5–9)

    tree covered in white flowersFlowering dogwood (Cornus florida, Zones 5–9) in full bloom at entrance

    red flowering crabappleMore fabulous flowering trees putting on colorful displays.

    bright red Japanese mapleOne of many Japanese maples, not sure of the variety as it may be a cross of the many maples here.

    plate of Brandywine raspberriesBrandywine raspberries (Rubus idaeus ‘Brandywine’Zones 4–8) that we planted years ago for our son who wanted a part time job.

    Giant Fleece FlowerGiant fleece flower (Persicaria polymorpha, Zones 4–9)

    Border of pink lilies and yellow marigoldsBorder of lilies and marigolds

    Thank you so much for this fantastic update on your garden, Linda! I can only image the lucky visitors walk away with endless planting ideas and inspiration.

    How do you share your garden with others? Do you open your space to the masses on local garden tours, or do you keep your oasis a private retreat for only close friends and family? Let us know in the comments below, or consider sharing your space with our community by sending in photos to the blog. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • Yarrow: The Low Maintenance, Powerhouse Flower – Garden Therapy

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    With tiny clusters of white, yellow, pink, and red flowers, many bypass the beauty of yarrow for its medicinal benefits. In the home garden, it can be a double hitter! Learn all about the amazing benefits of this herbal plant and how you can grow it in your own garden.

    If you’ve been looking to add to your flower bed or herb garden, yarrow will bring you beautiful flowers and amazing health benefits all in one pretty plant. In addition to being drought-resistant and a great attractor of butterflies, yarrow has powerful medicinal qualities dating back all the way to Ancient Greece.

    Known as Achillea millefolium, yarrow is an herbaceous perennial native to Europe and Asia with distinct feathery foliage and clustered white flowers (though you can find them in other colours too).

    But what about caring for a yarrow plant? I have good news for you! Yarrow is very carefree and will grow happily almost anywhere, making it a perfect plant for beginning herbalists and gardeners alike!

    Below I’ll walk you through everything you need to know about growing and caring for yarrow plants, as well as their many benefits and uses.

    This post will cover…

    red and orange yarrow

    LoriAnn’s Green Blessing

    This article was reviewed by herbalist LoriAnn Bird. This is not to be used as personal medical advice; always consult your health care professional for individual concerns.

    Here is what LoriAnn had to say about yarrow:
    Yarrow is found in the circumpolar region of the globe as another subspecies, A.borealis. In the book Plants of Coastal British Columbia by Pojar and MacKinnon, we read that many Coast Salish People of the Pacific Northwest administered yarrow for various conditions that correlate with our Western Herbal Traditions, how interesting! 

    Note only the white flower species Achillea millefolium is medicinal and this relationship with the human species dates back to the time of the Neandertral 40-60,000 years ago.  I remind the children that you can roll the fresh leaf/flower or use it dried between your fingers and stuff up the nose when it’s bleeding. It will stop immediately.

    Yarrow has a very diverse nutritional profile so we can add it to tinctures in vinegar (I prefer apple cider vinegar), which is known to extract out the minerals to help support our endocrine system (hormones). 

    Yarrow is known to help the liver cleanse out too many hormones in the system, can be used for facial steams, improve digestion, and we can also make a flower essence tincture. Flower essences help with our emotional health. Protecting oneself from within.  Know that I am a source of my own protection.

    Caution do not use when pregnant or if you have allergies in the Asterceae family.

    Yarrow Benefits

    The yarrow plant has been used medicinally for thousands of years, back to Ancient Greece and Ancient Egypt. Its versatility makes it a must-have in any herbalist’s collection, as its flowers, stalks, and leaves can all make teas, tinctures, and infusions. You can use the yarrow in your garden as a wound healer, aromatic bitter, fever breaker, and much more.

    Many know yarrow as a wound healer. During WWI, medics used yarrow to treat soldiers’ wounds, earning it the nicknames Soldiers’ Woundwort and Nosebleed. It’s antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and can be used as an antiseptic and styptic to stop bleeding when made into a poultice.

    Yarrow is also a handy plant to have saved during cold and flu season! It’s a widely used diaphoretic, which means it is a powerful fever breaker during those awful shakes when consumed as tea. If you’re congested, yarrow can also help encourage mucus elimination from the sinuses and aid with reducing inflammation.

    Believe it or not, there are even more benefits. This powerful plant can also reduce urinary tract infections, relieve gastrointestinal distress, lessen menstrual cramps, and lower blood pressure.

    All around, the yarrow is a must-have. Plus, who doesn’t want to see more ladybugs and butterflies in their garden come spring?

    yellow yarrow

    How to Plant Yarrow

    The wild white flowered yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is what is used for medicinal purposes, but there are so many other vibrant colours available to add to your garden. Yarrow plants are often sold as potted perennials and then propagated by division. If you buy your yarrow as a plant with many stalks in one nursery pot, you can separate them into individual planters or into rows in your garden beds very easily.

    First, lift the plant from its nursery pot. Gently remove excess dirt from its roots. Identify the individual stalks or clusters of plants that you want to divide. With a sharp, clean knife cut the sections of plants free from each other, leaving a good section of roots attached to each plant.

    If you’re planting into a garden bed, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart. Cover the root systems in new soil in a section of your garden that gets full sun.

    red yarrow in a garden

    Starting Yarrow from Seed

    If you’ve bought yarrow as seeds to start yourself, you’ll want to start them somewhere from six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow your yarrow seeds in your regular potting soil. Barely cover them and mist them so that the soil is moist.

    If you keep your seeds in a sunny, warm spot in your home (hello, windowsill!) you should see your seeds start to pop up within 14 to 21 days. If it’s a little chillier where you are and you’re worried about germination times, you can always cover the soil with some plastic wrap to trap in the heat and then remove the plastic once you see the seeds pop up.

    When you go to move your seedlings into their permanent homes, they’ll thank you for going in well-draining soil. But, they aren’t picky plants! These plants will often grow even in dry soil.

    orange yarrow

    Yarrow Plant Care

    Sun

    Alright, you’ve started your yarrow and you’re ready to get them growing tall and beautiful! Yarrow needs full sun in order to thrive.

    Water

    If you live in a climate that gets less rainfall, don’t worry! Yarrow is very drought resistant and tends to survive dry spells.

    Once you have your yarrow in the ground it needs very little maintenance. Unless you receive less than 1 inch of rain a week in the summer, you don’t need to water these plants hardly at all.

    Fertilizer

    If you’re hoping to see your yarrow spread, take it from me—these plants don’t need it! They are very hardy plants and will thrive without any fertilizer. However, if you are in a severe drought and see your plants start to wither, you can fertilize sparingly with water to keep them alive.

    white yarrow

    Pruning

    Though yarrow needs very little maintenance, it’s smart to deadhead flowers when you see them fade partway through the summer. This gives your plants their best chance to grow another round of flowers before the season’s end.

    It’s also important to note that yarrow plants are speedy growers and aggressive spreaders. They can grow to be 2 to 4 feet tall and will spread rapidly if left unwatched. Best to keep your eye on these plants, lest they take over your whole garden!

    If you see them start to spread more than you’d like, you can dig up the new plants and share them with friends or transplant them to another area of your garden.

    Common Issues

    Lucky for us, yarrow is a very easy plant that usually stays free of disease. However, pests and diseases are inevitable in most gardens and some may find your yarrow attractive.

    If you’re going to face issues with your yarrow, it is likely to be either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. Both of these look like spotting white powder covering the leaves of the yarrow. In both cases, the plant can be treated with natural pest control and you should see the problem clear up in no time.

    Occasionally, you might see spittlebugs take up residence in your yarrow, but these little crawlers can be easily removed. You can remove them by hand, wipe up their foam, and drop the larvae into soapy water to dispose of them.

    yellow yarrow plant

    Harvesting

    When you’re ready to harvest your yarrow, choose a warm, sunny day when the plants are in full bloom. This is very important! The flowers must be fully opened in order to harvest.

    Once opened, check to make sure that any dew collected on the plant overnight has dried. Then, cut the stem of the plant with a sharp pair of scissors above a leaf node.

    Frequently Asked Questions About Yarrow

    What is Yarrow?

    Yarrow is a flowering perennial plant known for its clustered flowers and a vast array of medicinal uses. It is commonly used to heal wounds and lower fevers and can be grown very easily in most gardens.

    Where Do You Find Yarrow?

    In the wild, yarrow can be found in sunny locations along roadsides, fields, and lawns throughout North America, Europe, Asia, Australia, Africa, and South America.

    What is Yarrow Good For?

    Yarrow is a powerful plant often used for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties both internally and externally. They can be brewed as tea, made into tinctures or infusions. Yarrow can also act as a styptic to stop bleeding and clean wounds.

    Is Yarrow a Perennial?

    Yarrow is a hardy, flowering perennial that can survive frost in the winter and bloom again in the warmer months. Once you’ve got them planted and well established in the growing months, you can rely on these plants to bloom again year after year.

    orange and red yarrow

    Let me know any other questions you may have about yarrow down below. Happy growing!

    More Herbal Growing Guides

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Snowscape Visit: The Max Family Garden in Brooklyn – Gardenista

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    There is a strong temptation to stay indoors when the world freezes. But out there in the cold, and especially after snowfall, the brown bones of gardens are suddenly emphasized, outlined in white. Visiting gardens in winter, when leaves and flowers belong to dreams of spring, allows us the thrill of anticipation, the pure pleasure of comparison, and an appreciation of structure, adding layers of understanding to our experience. It also tests our plant identification skills.

    For as much as it obscures, snow reveals what we may not have noticed before. Dusted with white, trees do not shape-shift—they can’t—as much as they become eloquent, damp snow emphasizing the gestures of bare branches.

    Photography by Marie Viljoen.

    Above: Glory be to brick. 

    Just a whisper north of the Brooklyn Bridge, and within Brooklyn Bridge Park, is the Max Family Garden (also known as the Triangle Garden), a hidden wedge guarded by old brick walls and arches, and designed by Michael Van Valkenburgh Associates (MVVA).

    Above: Snow turns found bluestone slabs into plush (but cold), cushioned seats.
    Above: New movement is revealed where snow delineates branches.

    Near double swing-doors, a mature sassafras branch extends a gracefully welcoming arm, the theatrical winter expression in keeping with the entrance to St. Ann’s Warehouse within the garden

    Above: Bluestone slabs found at the site were stacked, redeployed as seating.

    In 2015, the St Ann’s Warehouse performance space opened within the vestiges of a late nineteenth century tobacco warehouse, reimagined by Marvel Design.

    Above: The unroofed walls frame views of the Brooklyn Bridge.

    The two-floor brick shell that encloses the Max Family Garden is what remains of the original structure, and was commissioned by St. Ann’s Warehouse to fulfill zoning regulations that require new waterfront development to include publicly accessible green space. Both an entrance to the theater and a backstage door open into the garden.

    Above: In mid spring the frosted shrubs burst into yellow life—they are Kerria japonica.

    The restrained palette of trees is limited to birch, sassafras, and redbud. Beneath them shrubs include Japanese kerria and sweetspire, for spring and late summer bloom. Hellebores appear in late winter and the flower clusters of Skimmia follow soon after.

    Above: Vertical birch trunks become focal points.
    Above: A generous arch frames the garden.
    Above: Layers of arches reveal the cross hatching of snowy branches.
    Above: Occupying the corner of a 19th century tobacco warehouse, the garden within feels secret.

    While the Max Family Garden becomes part of the working St. Ann’s Warehouse space (via doors within the triangle) it is open during regular Brooklyn Bridge Park hours, a quiet space within the bustling greenway.

    See also:

    (Visited 46 times, 46 visits today)

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  • The Walsh’s Demonstration Garden in Ontario, Part 1 – Fine Gardening

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    Happy Monday GPODers!

    Today we’re returning to the gardens of Linda and Terry Walsh in Simcoe, Ontario, Canada—a spacious garden that we’ve seen a few times over the years (Check out previous submissions: Linda & Terry’s Garden in Ontario, Linda & Terry’s Garden Revisited, The Walsh’s Garden in Ontario). Linda and Terry have over 5 acres of landscape that they have spent the last couple of decades filling with a wide variety of fantastic plants in all sizes. Several spectacular specimen trees and show-stopping shrubs have grown to maturity over the years, so they have generously opened their space to fellow gardeners who are looking to view these plants and get design ideas. Today’s submission from Linda showcases some of the changes they’ve made since we’ve last seen the garden as well as some of the plants that get the most attention from visitors.

    It has been a terribly long winter here in Southern Ontario so gardening is not possible at this time.

    As mentioned earlier we have lived here for about 40 years and have been gardening extensively for the last 20 years. We have become a ‘Demonstration Garden” as people often want to know what plants look like full size and also wish to get landscaping ideas. We are open by appointment from June to September; it is a great way to meet fellow gardeners. Several years ago we put in electric gates which we designed with the Tree of Life in the centre. We are situated about 1000 feet from the road so the gates are not only security but do let people know when we are not available. We have over 175 rhododendrons, 50 + flowering dogwoods, hydrangeas, azaleas, viburnums, redbuds, Japanese maples, tulip trees, sassafras, paw paw and many other native trees. Children of all ages enjoy our koi pond, peacocks and border collies. We also grow organic brandy wine raspberries in our spare time, along with dahlias and numerous perennials.

    ‘Sumi nagashi’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Sumi nagashi’Zones 5–9)

    pink panicle hydrangeas in fallLittle Lime Punch® hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata ‘SMNHPH’Zones 3–9) start out white and turn red. People were driving up the driveway before the gates went in to see these.

    dogwood in full bloomKousa dogwood (Cornus kousa, Zones 5–8)

    mass planting of impatiens in various colorsOne of the many displays of impatiens… we use to plant 100 flats but we’ve slowed down a bit lately lol

    flowering trees on either side of driveway gateElectric gates at entrance that we designed with Tree of Life in centre. Japanese Kanzan cherry (Prunus ‘Kanzan’Zones 5–9) to left, redbud (Cercis canadensis, Zones 4–8) in background and flowering dogwood (Cornus florida, Zones 5–9) to right. We have many native trees, the redbud and dogwood being just a few.

    bright blue hydrangeaOnyx™ Peacock hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Zulu’Zones 5–9) we felt it was only fitting to have this variety as we raise peacocks.

    bubblegum pink mophead hydrangeaMophead pink hydrangea, variety unknown but the heads grown over a foot wide and it roots easily from cuttings.

    Japanese maple next to garden pondPond which we redesigned from our previous submission. Pond features 2 skimmers, waterfall and a natural bog up by the peacock house which you can see in background.

    bright pink rhododendron next to bright orange azalea‘Helsinki University’ rhododendron (Rhododendron ‘Helsinki University’Zones 4–8) we tried a new fertilizer this year and we were happy to see clusters of 4 flowers on many stems. ‘Girard’s Hot Shot’ evergreen orange azalea (Rhododendron ‘Girard’s Hot Shot’Zones 5–9) to the left

    Linda has a lot to showcase from their expansive gardens, so thankfully she sent several more photos for us to enjoy. Check back in the GPOD tomorrow to see more of this spectacular garden.

    Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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  • How to Identify and Manage 11 Common Bean Diseases

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    4. Bacterial Brown Spot

    Bacterial brown spot, caused by Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae, thrives in warm, wet weather between 80 and 85°F.

    The bacteria survive in crop residue, weeds, and contaminated seed, spreading via splashing rain and wind.

    A close up horizontal image of soybean pods infected with bacterial brown spot.

    Infected beans develop small, circular brown lesions surrounded by yellow tissue. The centers often fall out, creating a shot-hole appearance.

    Pods develop water-soaked spots that turn brown and sunken, sometimes causing the pod to twist or bend.

    Use certified disease-free seed and rotate beans with non-legumes for two to three years. Bury crop debris after harvest and control nearby weeds.

    For infected crops, you can salvage your yields by using copper-based bactericides 40 days after the plants emerge, then additional applications every seven to 10 days.

    5. Bean Rust

    Bean rust, caused by the fungus Uromyces appendiculatus, produces raised, reddish-brown pustules surrounded by yellow halos on leaves and pods.

    The pustules contain powdery spores that give infected bean foliage a rusty appearance. Severe infections cause leaves to die and drop, significantly reducing yields.

    A close up horizontal image of the symptoms of rust on bean plant foliage.A close up horizontal image of the symptoms of rust on bean plant foliage.

    The fungus overwinters in plant debris and spreads by wind. It thrives in moderate temperatures between 68 and 77°F with high humidity or moisture.

    Rotate beans with non-leguminous crops and remove debris immediately after harvest.

    Remove volunteers and avoid overhead watering that keeps leaves wet for extended periods. Grow resistant varieties when available.

    For severe infections, apply fungicides before the disease spreads throughout the garden.

    6. Black Root Rot

    Caused by the fungus Thielaviopsis basicola (syn. Berkeleyomyces spp.), black root rot affects a wide variety of flora. The pathogen produces spores that persist in soil for several years.

    Spores germinate in wet conditions at temperatures between 55 and 70°F, particularly when the soil pH is neutral to alkaline.

    A close up vertical image of an uprooted plant with symptoms of disease on the stem.A close up vertical image of an uprooted plant with symptoms of disease on the stem.

    Roots develop elongated red lesions that turn black as spores form.

    Entire roots can turn black, and infected bean plants become chlorotic, stunted, and wilted. Leaves may drop and may collapse.

    Black root rot is tough to control, so prevention is much more effective than management.

    Fungicides can be used at the first sign of disease, and insect vectors such as fungus gnats and shore flies should be controlled.

    If any crops become diseased, they should be removed and destroyed.

    7. Bean Mosaic Virus

    Bean common mosaic virus (BCMV) and bean common mosaic necrosis virus (BCMNV) spread through infected seed and aphid vectors. BCMV is more common than BCMNV.

    A close up horizontal image of the symptoms of mosaic virus on foliage.A close up horizontal image of the symptoms of mosaic virus on foliage.

    BCMV causes stunted growth, reduced yields, and distorted leaves with mosaic patterns of light green, dark green, and yellow patches.

    Plants with the dominant I resistance gene are protected from BCMV but become hypersensitive to BCMNV.

    When these resistant varieties encounter BCMNV, they develop small reddish-brown spots on shoots, followed by tissue death that spreads through leaves and stems, eventually killing the entire plant.

    Plants without the I gene infected with BCMV simply develop standard mosaic symptoms.

    Use certified, disease-free seed and grow resistant varieties. Control aphids to reduce virus spread. Remove and destroy infected plants immediately.

    8. Damping Off

    Caused by pathogens such as Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Thielaviopsis, damping off is a disease that severely weakens seedlings.

    They develop water-soaked lesions, rot, and collapse. The soil-borne pathogens are primarily an active threat in cool, wet weather.

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    Joe Butler

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  • Hybrid, GMO, or Heirloom Seeds: Here’s What You Need to Know – Garden Therapy

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    No doubt you’ve heard the buzz about heirloom seeds. But what really is the difference between heirloom, hybrid, GMO, and other terms like open-pollinated when it comes to seeds?  Today, I want to demystify these terms so you can choose the right seeds for you and your garden. 

    Throughout my many years of seed-starting, I have learned numerous tips and tricks when it comes to growing a garden from seed. My garden begins each year with ordering seeds and getting them started indoors. In my book, Get Growing! Expert Seed-Starting for the DIY Gardener, I cover the foundations of seed-starting for indoor and outdoor plants.

    There are always so many options when it comes to seeds. You can end up like me, with more seeds than my garden could possibly hold. But every year, I always ensure I plant plenty of flowers, herbs, and vegetables from seed.

    Today, I wanted to share the answer to a question that seems to create a bunch of confusion, “What’s the deal with heirloom, hybrid, open-pollinated, GMO, and treated seeds?”

    Heirloom, Hybrid, and GMO Seeds: What the Heck are They?

    When it comes to seeds, it can be difficult to know where to start and easy to get mixed up about what terms like “hybrid” or “heirloom” actually mean. Once you understand the difference between heirloom, hybrid, and GMO seeds, you can go about choosing the type of seeds that are right for you, and avoiding the ones that aren’t.

    Chive seed heads growing in the garden

    What are Heirloom Seeds?

    After WWII and well into the 1970s, commercial vegetables dominated the market and older varieties were increasingly difficult to find. Most of today’s heirloom varieties were originally preserved from home gardeners and their family gardens. Heirloom vegetables can be classified as a plant that has been cultivated for more than 50 years.

    Heirloom seeds have been saved and passed on for many generations. The plant, flowers, and fruit remain true to the type of the original great-great-great-(insert 50 years here)-grandmother plant. The seeds retain the parent plant’s outstanding qualities, be it beauty, flavor, and yield, or disease, pest, and weather resistance.

    The plants themselves are open-pollinated and each characteristic of the parent plant passes down to the next generation. For many heirloom plants, isolation ensures that plants grown close together are not cross-pollinated. If harvested and stored properly, and free from any diseases, they should turn out exactly like the parent plant.

    Heirloom plants provide much diversity from the standard fare available in grocery stores or garden centers. There are many colorful and unique plant varieties, but beauty and diversity alone doesn’t define a heirloom.

    How Do I Get Heirloom Seeds?

    Some people are lucky enough to have heirloom seeds passed down from generations past. For the rest of us, however, we can purchase heirloom seeds from your local nursery, or online.

    Heirloom Vegetables in a barrow

    What are Hybrid Seeds?

    Hybrid seeds come from cross-pollinating strong characteristics of different varieties, making brand-spanking-new varieties. The plants produced can look and taste as good as heirlooms. They may even taste better, be more disease resistant, or be easier to grow.

    Hybrids make the widespread distribution of vegetables easier. They can offer better disease resistance, less labour-intensive growing, higher overall yields, uniformity, and easy harvesting. This all makes it more profitable for commercial growers.

    Hybrid seeds are bred in fields or greenhouses by cross-pollinating different varieties of plants to create desirable and interesting traits. Some of the results of the hybrids are better than the parents, and some are worse. Through plenty of experimentation and then many years of subsequent testing for control and reliability, new hybrids with amazing new features are born.

    Part art and part science, hybridization growers take the time to grow only the best possible plants for a successful harvest.

    Both heirloom and hybrid seeds can give you quality plants. Hybrids make for modern day success; heirlooms have stood the test of time.

    Nasturtium and flowers on a barn wall

    What are Open-Pollinated Seeds?

    All heirlooms are open-pollinated plants, but not all open-pollinated plants are heirlooms. Open pollination occurs from insects, wind, birds, and humans passing pollen from plant to plant. Both hybrid and heirloom seeds can reproduce through open pollination.

    When the plant is pollinated by a plant of the same variety, or through self-pollination, it is an heirloom plant. Any seeds from these plants hold their parent plant’s traits.

    When a plant cross pollinates with other varieties, it becomes a hybrid plant. Both can occur naturally or with the help of a human hand. But, any seeds saved from the hybrid plant will not carry the same traits as the parent plant.

    What are Organic Seeds?

    Organic seeds are seeds grown and saved using certified organic methods. It doesn’t mean that the seeds that are not organic are treated with pesticides or herbicides. It just means that the farms that produced the seeds had organic certification.

    Kale and Herbs in the sky

    What are GMO Seeds?

    First, let’s not confuse GMOs with hybrid seeds. GMOs, or Genetically Modified Organisms, are created through experimental biotechnology that, according to the Non-GMO Project, “merges DNA from different species, creating unstable combinations of plant, animal, bacterial and viral genes that cannot occur in nature or in traditional crossbreeding.”

    Currently, no seeds sold for home gardens are GMOs; those are created for commercial crops only. There isn’t a need to search for non-GMO labeling on seed packets for the home garden. Seeds meant for home as opposed to commercial use will not be genetically modified.

    What About Treated Seeds?

    Treated seeds come coated with an herbicide or pesticide to help prevent fungus and insect damage. They are often brightly dyed to indicate their treatment and labeled as “treated” on the packaging. I avoid using treated seeds as I do not want herbicides and pesticides in my garden.

    However, there are some coated seeds that are safe to use. Many tiny, modern seeds like marigolds or lettuce, can have a coloured coating that LOOKS like treated seeds, but aren’t. These seeds have something similar to a candy coating and are intended to help the gardener pick them up more easily. Refer to the seed’s packaging for confirmation about the type of coating on your seeds.

    seeds growing in a pack

    The Benefits of Growing Hybrid Seeds

    Hybrid seeds result from many years of breeding the perfect plant! Don’t think of mad scientists concocting unnatural plants; think of farmers and gardeners making special and strong varieties. Many farmers, seed companies, and even home gardeners spend years and many seasons cross-pollinating select plants in hopes that they created the perfect combination of genes.

    For example, you can combine one tomato plant known for producing a ton of fruit with another tomato variety known as more disease resistant. Traits you can look for include: easier to grow, quick growers, adaptable to their environment, bigger fruit, more fruit, disease resistance, and shelf life.

    You can combine hybrids until you have the combination of traits you are looking for. A staple for many farmers, hybrid plants become more dependable and fruitful each year. While you can’t save the seeds and get the guaranteed traits like an heirloom plant, you can reproduce hybrids through cuttings.

    edible flowers Garden Therapy seeds

    The Benefits of Growing Heirloom Seeds

    While hybrid plants have made grocery shopping easier, heirloom plants have many benefits for the home gardener. You can find a ton of new flavours, colours, and shapes when growing heirloom seeds. Their lack of uniformity can even mean different ripening times, for a harvest that lasts longer.

    If you have grown your heirloom seeds for a while, this means they work well in your geographical region. They are used to the weather, growing conditions, and have resistance to diseases and pests in your area.

    Lastly, you get to save a little piece of history. There is something so special about growing the same plant as perhaps your grandmother. Just like everything in the world, vegetable varieties can become extinct. We must work together to pass on heirloom seeds and their gene pool to the next generation.

    container with seedlings and soil markers

    Are Heirloom Seeds Illegal?

    When it comes to seed saving, things can get a little complicated. For the most part, the legality issues with saving seeds center around farmers. Many GMO and hybrid seeds are patented. This means that any farmers who grow the seeds must sign an agreement stating they will grow the seeds for only that year. The following year, they cannot save those same seeds and instead must purchase them again.

    In the EU, it is illegal to sell any vegetable cultivar that is not included in the national list. Many believe this to be a leading cause in the loss of many heritage varieties as it is difficult and expensive to get on the list. The US protects growing plants from divisions, cuttings, and seeds, and laws vary state by state.

    When it comes to heirloom plants, we enter a bit of a grey area. If you are not selling heirloom plants or their seeds, that is fine. In addition, many heirloom seeds have been around for generations, making them a part of public domain.

    tomato seeds grown from heirloom seeds in a jar

    The Cultural Significance of Seed Saving

    The legalities surrounding seed saving for farmers and other gardeners does impose on years of tradition. Before you could purchase commercial seeds, generations and gardens passed down seeds. It is a process that should still be honoured.

    When slave owners forced African people onto their ships, many of the women braided seeds into their hair in order to survive and bring their culture onward. Leah Penniman talked about this cultural significance in her book Farming While Black and I highly encourage you to read it. For many, continuing to grow their seeds is honouring their ancestors’ work and legacy.

    The WTO governs many rules surrounding seed saving, with many farmers in developing countries increasingly affected by the regulations. Restricting people’s access to seeds makes growing food inaccessible for many.

    As our population grows and biodiversity decreases, we need people to grow healthy, sustainable food more than ever. Swapping seeds and varieties with other farmers also helps to increase biodiversity. Saving seeds holds a significance culturally and environmentally that needs to be looked at before we accept that modern corporations control seed saving.

    More Posts About Growing and Planting Seeds:

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Quick Takes With: Susanna Grant – Gardenista

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    “I am a gardener, garden designer, and writer. My consultancy, LINDA, designs and plants biodiverse urban gardens that are plant-focused with an emphasis on re-using existing materials where possible. I also organise and curate London’s best plant fairs—the Spring Plant Fair at the Garden Museum and the Autumn Plant Fair at Arnold Circus.”

    Read Susanna Grant’s bio, and you’ll be able to glean a few truths about her. One, she sees herself first and foremost as a gardener, a steward of the land, a caretaker of plants. Second, spontaneity and breeziness are key to her designs, as evidenced by the fact that she named her firm after a friend’s dog. And third, she’s keen on building a community of like-minded plant obsessives. (Count us in!)

    True to form, Susanna, who wrote a book on shade planting, is also a volunteer gardener and a trustee of Friends of Arnold Circus, and a director of Care Not Capital. “I’m particularly excited by the Modern Gardener training we are delivering to trained gardeners through Care Not Capital this summer at John Little’s experimental garden Hilldrop,” she tells us. “We’ve just opened applications for the second year of our free training.”

    Below, she tells us why she’s not a fan of sedum green roofs, how to easily get rid of a lawn, which plant stars in all of her projects, and more. (And if you’re curious to see more of her projects, be sure to go here and here.)

    Photography courtesy of Susanna Grant.

    Above: Susanna at the Garden Museum plant fair. Photograph by Graham Lacado.

    Your first garden memory:

    Probably my grandparent’s garden. They had a small rectangular pond with a miniature waterfall made out of bricks that my granddad built. It was deeply suburban! I loved lying beside it watching the water boatmen bugs on the surface.

    Garden-related book you return to time and again:

    Richard Maby’s Flora Britannica and Weeds: In Defense of Nature’s Most Unloved Plants. His writing is so conversational and captures the emotional connection we have with plants alongside his scientific observations. Both really good for dipping into. Derek Jarman’s Modern Nature is another favourite—again because of the deep relationship he nurtures with his garden. We live with nature, as nature—it is not something separate. These are books you don’t have to be a gardener to enjoy and they might change your perception of the plants around you.

    Instagram account that inspires you:

    @dandelyan, @howardsooley, @coyotewillow, @bennyhawksbee, @thetemperategardener, plus @johnderian for his occasional leggy pellie [etiolated Pelargoniums] posts. Sorry, I spend far too much time on there to be able to limit it to one!

    Describe in three words your garden aesthetic.

    Above: A project that reflects Susanna’s “light touch with hardscaping.”

    Natural, kind, plant-heavy. I want my gardens to look like they’ve always been there.

    Plant that makes you swoon:

    Oenothera stricta sulphurea—it’s the way the sunset colours seep into one another and gently glow at dusk. I rarely get to use it, as most of the gardens I plant are clay and have a fair amount of shade, but I will get it in whenever I can.

    Plant that makes you want to run the other way:

    Euonymus japonica ‘Aureomarginatus’. I’m trying to like variegation more and can take a silvery edge or delicate white splash, but the yellow and green of this euonymus is too much!

    Favorite go-to plant:

    Above: At the back of this small garden, nodding Digitalis lutea.

    Digitalis lutea. She goes everywhere with me. Tough, evergreen foliage, soft yellow flowers with a beautiful little deferential nod at the tip, good seedheads, good for pollinators, good for shade, good for most gardens.

    Hardest gardening lesson you’ve learned:

    Probably accepting that gardened spaces are ephemeral. You can pour your heart and soul into a design and planting and make sure it’s cared for, but someone can come and change all of it a few years down the line.
    Maybe also stop buying plants from nurseries that I don’t need and have nowhere to put them!

    Unpopular gardening opinion:

    I’m not convinced by the current trend of drought-tolerant Mediterranean planting in the UK as a simple answer to climate change. Yes, summers are getting hotter here, but winters are looking like they are going to get colder and wetter and a lot of Mediterranean plants won’t survive that. Climate emergency means constant adaptation and there isn’t a one-size fits all.

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  • 13 Salt-Tolerant Evergreen Shrubs for the Sidewalk Strip

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    While this species can be hard to find in nurseries and it doesn’t transplant well from the wild, it’s easy to propagate from cuttings.

    3. Cotoneaster

    Cotoneasters are members of the rose family, and native to north Africa, parts of Asia, and Europe. While not all plants in the Cotoneaster genus are evergreen, ‘Coral Beauty’ sure is.

    With satiny, rounded leaves, small white flowers in the spring, and bright orange-red berries in the summer, there’s always something to admire when you plant ‘Coral Beauty’ shrubs.

    This evergreen beauty, a Cotoneaster dammeri cultivar, grows in Zones 5 through 9.

    It reaches up to 24 inches tall at maturity and spreads three to four feet, making it an ideal ground cover for any street strip. And since it’s on this list, you know it’s salt tolerant.

    A close up square image of 'Coral Beauty' cotoneaster growing in the garden.

    ‘Coral Beauty’ Cotoneaster

    Cotoneaster thrives in rich, well-draining soil. Keep in mind that this shrub loves the sun, and needs full sunlight in order to thrive.

    You can find plants in two-gallon containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Learn how to grow cotoneaster here.

    4. English Yew

    For a delightful evergreen shrub that you may have seen gracing the property of an old churchyard, try growing English yew, Taxus baccata.

    This long-living plant has dark green needles that’ll brighten your spirit on a winter day. With moderate salt tolerance, you can rest assured that sidewalk salt won’t harm this shrub.

    Keep in mind that any English yew may develop berries if there are both female and male plants around, and that these berries are toxic. If you have pets or young children, they may not be a safe choice for your landscape.

    English yew is suited to Zones 5 through 7. This plant can live 150 years or longer, making it the perfect long-term investment.

    It’s also an easy-care shrub in that it can do well in conditions ranging from full sun to full shade. As long as the soil is well-draining, loamy, and evenly moist, your yew will be happy.

    Left untrimmed, it grows 20 to 25 feet tall and spreads 15 to 20 feet. Thankfully, the plant grows slowly, giving you plenty of time to keep it pruned to whatever shape or size you desire.

    For even more control over the height of this salt-tolerant shrub, try planting a spreading variety like ‘Repandens.’

    A close up square image of 'Repandens' English yew growing in the garden.A close up square image of 'Repandens' English yew growing in the garden.

    ‘Repandens’ English Yew

    This cultivar grows just two to four feet tall but slowly spreads six to 12 feet over time, making it an ideal specimen for a hedge or border.

    You can find live spreading yew plants in three-gallon containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Check out our guide to growing yew here.

    5. False Cypress

    This hardy, moderately salt-tolerant shrub is perfect in so many ways.

    Several species in the Chamaecyparis genus are considered false cypresses, including the popular Chamaecyparis lawsoniana, C. obtusa, C. pisifera, and C. thyoides.

    The evergreen false cypress is native to parts of Asia and North America. Most varieties are suited to Zones 4 through 8, making them excellent choices for many snowy locales.

    A close up horizontal image of the foliage of false cypress growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of the foliage of false cypress growing in the garden pictured on a soft focus background.

    Height and spread vary widely, but most false cypresses have feathery leaves and a beautiful green-gold color that develops in ideal full-sun conditions.

    False cypress prefers moist, well-draining soil but it isn’t picky otherwise.

    A cultivar that’s ideal for many locations is ‘Koster’s,’ a Hinoki false cypress (C. obtusa) which hails from Japan.

    A close up square image of 'Koster's' false cypress growing in the garden.A close up square image of 'Koster's' false cypress growing in the garden.

    ‘Koster’s’ False Cypress

    ‘Koster’s’ grows four to five feet tall and spreads four to five feet wide.

    If you plant a line of these tidy evergreen shrubs, you’ll have plenty of greenery to look at without overwhelming your growing area.

    You can purchase live plants in one-gallon containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    6. Gardenia

    If the cold weather and reduced sunlight in winter make you feel tired, why not plant a member of the coffee family in your front yard?

    Gazing out at your gardenias in the winter might just give you the jolt of energy you need. And though these plants don’t produce caffeine, the flowers are actually edible.

    A close up vertical image of the delicate white flowers of 'Frost Proof' gardenia growing in the garden pictured on a dark background.A close up vertical image of the delicate white flowers of 'Frost Proof' gardenia growing in the garden pictured on a dark background.

    Plants in the Gardenia genus originate from some of the warmest places on the globe: the tropical and subtropical areas of Australia, Asia, Africa, and the Pacific Islands.

    This heat-loving plant has just enough salt tolerance to thrive in homes near the coast. It prefers consistently moist, rich, well-draining soil and full sun, but it appreciates light afternoon shade in hotter climates.

    And with its dark-hued evergreen leaves and waxy, sweet-scented white flowers, it makes a stunning addition to any yard.

    Gardenias are suited to Zones 8 through 11, although some can tolerate Zone 7 winters.

    If you live in Zone 7 and want a salt-tolerant shrub to plant in that strip between the sidewalk and the street, try growing ‘Frost Proof,’ one of the most – if not the most – cold-tolerant gardenias around.

    A close up square image of white 'Frost Proof' gardenia flowers growing in the garden pictured in light sunshine.A close up square image of white 'Frost Proof' gardenia flowers growing in the garden pictured in light sunshine.

    ‘Frost Proof’ Gardenia

    This variety grows four to five feet tall and spreads just three to four feet. The glossy leaves will keep you company all winter – long after the blooms fade.

    You can purchase live plants in quart-sized, one-gallon, or three-gallon containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Learn how to grow and care for gardenia here.

    7. Inkberry Holly

    For a salt-tolerant evergreen with a touch of class, try inkberry holly, Ilex glabra.

    Native to North America all the way from Canada down to Texas, inkberry holly thrives in Zones 3 to 9. This shrub loves acidic, slightly moist soil, and has a full, rounded growth habit.

    It adapts well to pruning and makes a fantastic low hedge at the edge of the yard or sidewalk, where it will thrive in part shade or full sun.

    ‘Shamrock,’ one of the most popular cultivars, grows just three to four feet tall and wide.

    A close up square image of 'Shamrock' inkberry holly growing in the garden.A close up square image of 'Shamrock' inkberry holly growing in the garden.

    ‘Shamrock’ Inkberry Holly

    The medium green foliage deepens to dark green in the winter. Visually insignificant flowers are followed by dark ink-colored berries that can be difficult to spot.

    You can find inkberry holly ‘Shamrock’ available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Find tips for growing inkberry holly here.

    8. Littleleaf Boxwood

    Littleleaf boxwood, Buxus microphylla, is an ideal evergreen for coastal areas, as it’s hardy in Zones 6 through 9 and is tolerant of salt spray.

    This sturdy, dependable plant grows three to four feet high and wide, making it easy to maintain. It needs full sun or partial shade, and prefers slightly moist, rich, well-draining soil.

    As its name suggests, the leaves on this boxwood are smaller than those of other plants in the Buxus genus.

    There are several varieties to choose from, too, making your search easy and fun.

    One that looks fantastic in a coastal yard is ‘Little Missy.’

    A close up of a 'Little Missy' boxwood shrub growing in a garden border.A close up of a 'Little Missy' boxwood shrub growing in a garden border.

    ‘Little Missy’ Littleleaf Boxwood

    With its upright spires of leaves, this B. microphylla cultivar resembles other popular coastal shrubs like Mediterranean saltbush and coastal rosemary. In other words, it fits right in!

    Find plants in #2 and #3 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Learn more about growing boxwood here.

    9. Mugo Pine

    Those of us who live in frigid areas often have a harder time finding salt-tolerant shrubs that will thrive, but mugo pine fits the bill.

    Native to an area spanning the Alps, the Carpathians, and the Pyrenees mountain ranges in central Europe, this small to medium-sized shrub is suited to growing in Zones 3 through 7.

    A slow-growing conifer, the mugo pine (Pinus mugo var. mugo) can grow 20 feet tall with a spread of 25 feet.

    But dwarf varieties grow to about three to five feet in height with a spread of six to 10 feet. You can create a verdant hedge in front of your home with this low-maintenance plant.

    Best of all? The mugo pine is highly salt tolerant.

    It can take airborne or soil-borne salt exposure, so it’s an ideal choice whether you live in a coastal area or in a snowy mountain town.

    A close up square image of a mugo pine growing on the edge of a forest pictured in light sunshine.A close up square image of a mugo pine growing on the edge of a forest pictured in light sunshine.

    Mugo Pine

    Mugo pine requires full sun, but it will appreciate light shade in warmer climates. The soil should be well-draining and moist, but not soggy. Otherwise, it’s not a picky plant.

    Start your salt-tolerant hedge with dwarf mugo pines available in three-gallon containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

    Find more tips on caring for mugo pines here.

    10. Scarlet Firethorn

    Looking for a mid-sized shrub? Scarlet firethorn (Pyracantha coccinea), which is native to southern Europe and western Asia, just might be the salt-tolerant plant for you.

    With its elongated, bluish-green leaves, white flowers in spring, and bright orange berries in autumn, this semi-evergreen plant always has something to offer the eye.

    Scarlet firethorn is suited to Zones 6 through 9.

    Note that firethorn also produces sharp thorns.

    This makes it an excellent defensive plant for landscaping around your residence or along the road, but not necessarily for those who live in densely populated areas with lots of pedestrians who may brush past the bushes.

    A close up square image of the green foliage and bright orange berries of Pyracantha 'Mohave' growing outside a residence.A close up square image of the green foliage and bright orange berries of Pyracantha 'Mohave' growing outside a residence.

    Pyracantha ‘Mohave’

    My favorite variety, ‘Mohave,’ grows six to 12 feet tall with a similar spread.

    It isn’t picky about soil richness but enjoys well-drained, slightly moist soil. As for light requirements, it needs full sun to part shade.

    Find ‘Mohave’ firethorn available at Fast Growing Trees.

    11. Siberian Cypress

    For a low-growing, fern-soft, yet tough-as-nails shrub, try growing Siberian cypress (Microbiota decussata) in your sidewalk strip.

    This salt-tolerant evergreen bears blue-green foliage that resembles that of a juniper, and it’s hardy in Zones 2 through 8.

    It reaches an average height of 12 inches inches and a spread of 24 inches, with a creeping, prostrate growth pattern for a sprawling look across the curb strip.

    Native to the Sikhote-Alin mountain range in eastern Russia, Siberian cypress grows exceptionally well across a large swath of North America and it isn’t fussy about soil.

    This plant thrives in full sun or partial shade, and is drought tolerant once its root system is established. It does not like to have wet feet.

    A close up square image of the foliage of Siberian cypress Celtic Pride growing in the garden.A close up square image of the foliage of Siberian cypress Celtic Pride growing in the garden.

    Celtic Pride® Siberian Cypress

    I love the way the Celtic Pride® (M. decussata ‘Prides’) has foliage that develops a blue tinge in winter, yet never loses that gorgeous green.

    You can find Celtic Pride® plants available Nature Hills Nursery.

    12. Wintercreeper

    Do you want an evergreen shrub that boasts more than one color? Then Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ is an excellent shrub to plant between the sidewalk and the street.

    Native to China, Japan, and Korea, and hardy in Zones 5 to 9, the green, oval-shaped leaves are edged in gold for a striking look.

    This plant grows two to three feet high and spreads four to five feet. Like many other evergreen shrubs, this one thrives in full sun or partial shade and loamy, moderately moist soil.

    A close up square image of Euonymus 'Emerald 'n' Gold' with variegated foliage growing in the garden.A close up square image of Euonymus 'Emerald 'n' Gold' with variegated foliage growing in the garden.

    ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ Wintercreeper

    Wintercreeper is classified as invasive in many states in the eastern half of the US, so be sure to check local regulations in your area before planting it.

    Otherwise, ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ is easy to keep in check with occasional trimming of the runners.

    You can find plants in one-gallon containers available at Nature Hills Nursery.

    Learn about growing euonymus here.

    13. Winter Heath

    For striking pinkish-purple, bell-shaped flowers on spruce-like branches from mid- to late winter into early spring, plant salt-tolerant winter heath (Erica carnea) in the space between your front yard and the road.

    A close up horizontal image of the bright pink flowers on of winter heath growing in the garden.A close up horizontal image of the bright pink flowers on of winter heath growing in the garden.

    The flowers fade come summer, but the verdant, needle-filled branches remain.

    Native to the mountains of eastern, central, and southern Europe, this attractive plant is hardy in Zones 5 to 8.

    Winter heath requires full sun, although it’ll enjoy a bit of shade in the afternoon in hotter zones, and soil that’s moist and loamy but not soggy.

    It grows 12 to 18 inches high and spreads two to three feet, making an excellent ground cover.

    Additional Considerations

    After you’ve sketched out a plan and made your selections, but before you purchase your shrubs and break ground, there are a few important considerations to keep in mind.

    First, ensure that you are in fact able to plant in the strip of land between the sidewalk and the road in front of your house.

    Renters are always encouraged to check with their landlords before digging, and local utility companies should also be consulted if you risk hitting wires or pipes that are buried underground.

    A horizontal image of a white picket fence with blooming formosa azalea flower bushes near a sidewalk.A horizontal image of a white picket fence with blooming formosa azalea flower bushes near a sidewalk.

    While some neighborhoods allow residents to plant anything they wish outside their residences, others are more strict, allowing only grass to be planted in the curb lawn or certain types of trees or shrubs.

    Make sure whatever you wish to plant is approved in your area and that it isn’t deemed invasive, or likely to crowd out other plants.

    Plants that drop blossoms or berries may create a nuisance for passers-by, and any with sharp thorns may pose a hazard for pedestrians if they are not carefully pruned, or if curious children or dogs are out playing in the neighborhood.

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    Laura Ojeda Melchor

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  • Current Obsessions: Secret Crush – Gardenista

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  • Plant This Hardy Spring Wildflower in the Garden for Hummingbirds

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    How to Grow Wild Columbine in the Garden




























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    Tara Nolan

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  • homegrown spice-rack herbs from seed, with sarah kleeger

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    WHAT DO YOU SAY we explore expanding our herb-gardening efforts to include some goodies to fill those jars in the spice rack, too? Most of us have probably grown cilantro, for instance, with its distinctive-tasting bright green foliage, but I suspect few of us have harvested coriander seed, the other possible crop that same species of plant can yield.

    Sarah Kleeger of Adaptive Seeds has been adding coriander and various other spice-rack possibilities to her garden, farm and seed catalog, like anise (above, in flower) and caraway and more, all plants that are also ornamental and beloved by the creatures she calls “our garden friends,” from beneficial insects to birds.

    In 2009, Sarah Kleeger and Andrew Still (pictured below; photo by Shawn Linehan) founded Adaptive Seeds, their certified-organic, farm-based seed company near Sweet Home, Ore., whose mission is to steward rare, diverse, and resilient seed varieties for ecologically minded farmers, gardeners, and seed savers.

    All their varieties are open-pollinated and adapted to the Pacific Northwest and other short-season Northern climates, including selections of some garden-grown spice rack favorites that are our topic today, along with some unusual leafy green herbs you may not have tried, either.

    Read along as you listen to the Feb. 16, 2026 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

    spice-rack herbs from seeds, with sarah kleeger

    Download file | Play in new window | Duration: 00:25:53

    Subscribe: Apple Podcasts | Spotify

    Margaret Roach: Welcome back to the program, Sarah, all the way from Oregon [laughter]. And as I sort of alluded to in the introduction, most of us grow herbs—basil and dill and cilantro and parsley and such. But when it comes to the seeds that fill many of those jars in the spice rack, maybe not so much. What got you started thinking about these?

    Sarah Kleeger: Well, I mean, as a seed grower, everything I grow is for seed. So that’s just sort of my background, and I’m always looking at things from the seed perspective. So we started adding some mustard seed just from regular leafy green mustard—not the yellow mustard—but adding that to our pantry.

    And as you mentioned, I think cilantro/coriander is one that’s very easy and probably an entry level sort of spice for people to add. And that one’s in just so many different cuisines that it’s kind of a no-brainer. And then just sort of every couple of years adding more to that. There’s just really a lot of opportunity out there that we can grow in temperate gardens. Not all things, of course, but …

    Margaret: Right. Now you told me recently in an email that these plants aren’t just delicious, which of course is part of the attraction, but they have other qualities that you’ve come to treasure. And as I said in the intro, you said they appeal to “our garden friends.” So tell us a little bit about that—and their other sort of characteristics that make them good garden subjects, not just for seed farming.

    Sarah: Right. Well, so a lot of the spices and the spice rack, they’re in the Umbelliferae family, they’re carrot relatives. And so their flowers are these great compound sort of umbrellas of many, many little small flowers and they can bloom over a long period of time. And they’re just really appealing to not only honeybees, but also lots of smaller pollinators like syrphid flies and sweat bees and ones that are not necessarily as popular or well-known, but that are really important ecologically.

    So the dill is another one, along with the cilantro, that is like… A lot of gardeners grow this for the herb, for the leafy green part. But then if we let it go to flower and beyond, then we are gifted with, and also our garden friends [laughter] are gifted with, a source of forage and shelter and all of these other things. And also, I think they’re quite beautiful, especially the stacking, and they grow different heights compared to other garden plants.

    So yeah, it’s really kind of amazing. And we’ve been growing. So dill and cilantro, pretty obvious. Caraway [above] is another one that’s in that family, not quite as flashy, but still has that same sort of flower type. And then fennel, of course, which those plants get really tall. And in our garden, wasps are what are mostly pollinating our fennel. And if you start early in the spring, then there’s this kind of progression through the season where there can always be something flowering there, because consistency with the nectaries is also important for beneficial insects.

    Margaret: The cilantro, again, easy to grow and pretty quick. I always do successions because it doesn’t last forever; I sow it a couple of times during the season. But for getting seed, you have a particular variety—it’s not the same green-leaved varieties that you’re listing to grow as cilantro. You have one that’s specifically for seed, you’ve selected it or you have identified it as a good seed-producing variety, yes?

    Sarah: Right. Yeah. It’s ‘Kanchanaburi’ coriander [above], and that’s a variety that we picked up in Thailand, and it was selected not by us, but by the generations of seed stewards that came before. And its seed is just a little bit bigger, and a little bit more flavorful. It’s got that sort of lemony undertones that is a pretty important flavoring in Thai cuisine, and they get it in all sorts of places. But yeah, so it goes to seed a little bit more quickly and makes the larger seeds as opposed to focusing on the vegetative growth like most cilantro has been.

    Margaret: When approximately do you get seed from that? How far into the season are you from, say, a spring sowing?

    Sarah: Gosh, that’s a great question. I think a lot of it depends on the timing when you’re planting it. So we plant almost all of our seed crops when we plant pretty much our whole farm [laughter], which is over a two-week period in the second half of May. And that’s mostly because that’s when our soil can be worked. And then the cilantro and coriander seeds are ones that come in August probably. So yeah, I don’t have the specific days to maturity, but it is a little quicker. The ‘Kanchanaburi’ coriander one is a little bit faster to make seed.

    Margaret: And so then another flavor that people either like or don’t like, just like cilantro and coriander, but you have anise; Pimpinella is the genus, I guess. And that’s another one, people in Italian cookies and lots of different, especially like you mentioned in the catalog, I think specialty liqueurs, like ouzo, right? [Laughter.] So that sort of licorice-y kind of flavor. I don’t know that I’ve seen it growing, but yeah, so that’s another one. And how about that one?

    Sarah: Yeah, I mean, that is the one that made me be like, “Oh, Margaret, we got to talk about spice racks and pollinators,” because this is one that we’ve just started to grow more recently.” And actually, I’m glad to hear you say at first, “anise,” because of course there is [pronounces it differently, “ah-NIECE”].

    Margaret: [Laughter.] I know. I have no idea. I’ve always said anise, whatever. I’m in Camp Anise also; that’s two of us.

    Sarah: But yeah, this past year when we grew it, it was our second time growing it. And the plants are not quite as showy, but we were walking through the gardens and found there’s an anise swallowtail butterfly that’s native to a lot of the West Coast, and their fat caterpillars were just all over this plant. And we have tiger swallowtails as another swallowtail that we have here, and they’re fairly common. And I, up to that moment, was unaware that we also had the anise swallowtails. And so was like, oh, this is a nursery crop for a really beautiful kind of special native species of butterfly as well. And to the point that they’re called anise swallowtails [caterpillar, above]. I think they also go for fennel.

    Margaret: Right. But if you plant it, they will come. It’s sort of interesting.  It’s the weirdest, right? How do they find it? But they do.

    Sarah: Yeah, no, I mean, it was incredible. And it’s an abundant seed-yielder, especially for how much I use it in the garden or in the kitchen, which is not that much, if I’m being honest, but it is a plant that I am going to grow every year now, now that I know that we have this garden friend who sort of prefers it. And I want to do what I can in my gardens and in my fields to encourage the biodiversity of not only plants, right, but also the animals and insects and everybody else.

    Margaret: Right. So anise, that’s another one. I think in the catalog listing, it says that’s a 75-day annual. That one is an annual.

    Sarah: Yes, it is. Most of these are annual. And so that’s, I think another interesting and kind of fun part of it. If we’re looking at herbs, those are more perennial and pretty fabulous. You can just plant it once and grab your rosemary whenever you-

    Margaret: Right. And thyme and oregano and this kind of … Right, right.

    Sarah: Yeah. But these are all annuals. And if you do plant them and then you take them to the spice rack, then you also conveniently have your seed for replanting the next season.

    Margaret: Oh, that’s true. Oh, that’s funny. That’s like harvesting beans as dry beans and then saying, “Ooh, I’ve got some beans left from last year’s harvest. I think I’ll plant them.” One crop, two purposes.

    Sarah: Exactly. When the seed is the crop, that’s our favorite anyway.

    Margaret: And so then also you sort of branched out into caraway as well; you’re growing caraway. And I think that’s usually a biennial, isn’t it?

    Sarah: I think it usually is, but we found one that’s been more selected for annual production.

    Margaret: Ah, good. Yeah.

    Sarah: It did take us a couple of years to get the timing right and the spacing. But yeah, the caraway is one that we’re now able to get a pretty dependable yield from. And caraway and the anise and dill, they’re smaller plants, so they can actually be spaced much closer together and therefore create a more visually appealing, denser sort of arrangement or whatever in the garden. And then also the yield is better.

    Margaret: They’re white-flowered? Are they white-flowered?

    Sarah: Yeah, they are. Almost all of these are white, kind of lacy, almost like Queen Anne’s lace or wildflower-looking with just different sizes.

    Margaret: And I don’t need a 40-foot row or something to get enough, because again, we’re using these with anise, for instance, it’s not like I need 10 pounds.

    Sarah: Exactly. With the anise, our first year, we grew maybe 5 feet in the garden, which is maybe a lot on a garden scale. And then we’ve got 3 cups of this seed. And I made biscochitos. Do you know the cookie? It’s the state cookie of New Mexico. It was kind of a shortbread cookie with lard I think as a key ingredient. I made it with butter. It did not come out quite right, but flavored with anise and then with cinnamon sugar sprinkled on the top and it was 3 teaspoons or something. Right. So a little bit goes a long way and they’re really yummy.

    Margaret: And then I was surprised also to see one that I had never heard of its culinary properties. I know Nigella I guess it’s damascena, love-in-a-mist flower, that I’ve grown as an ornamental, had self-sow around the edges of the garden and so on. But I didn’t know that it had a cousin [laughter], a different species, Nigella sativa. I didn’t know there was one that was culinary, so that was interesting.

    Sarah: Yeah. It’s the culinary nigella, it’s also known as blackseed [above, pods and seed], and it’s in a lot of just Middle Eastern and South Asian cooking. And it’s used on flatbreads and naans and as a food topping sprinkled on top and in stir fries. And it’s really got a lot of, I think, nutritional qualities. It’s said to be immune-boosting, too, traditionally, but it’s beautiful just like the regular garden nigella, although it holds its seed slightly more tightly so it doesn’t shatter; like the regular garden nigella tends to fling its seed around this one.

    Margaret: It does do that, doesn’t it? [Laughter.]

    Sarah: Right. You plant it once and you’ve got it. But yeah, the culinary nigella, it’s a little bit smaller plants, but yeah, just as beautiful. It is of course not one of the umbels. So the flowers are a little bit different, but it is also one that’s like, it’s quite beautiful and pollinators enjoy it as well. And yeah, easy to grow, especially if you’re using it in sort of small sprinkle-on-the-top kind of quantities.

    Margaret: Well, and not that many things have blue flowers, right? So blue is a color some people really like, and that would be an attraction, too, yes? Now, do these all get to the ones that we’ve talked about so far, are we direct-sowing these or are we starting them indoors? What’s your advice with that?

    Sarah: It’s a little of this and a little of that. I think we definitely direct-sow the dill and cilantro and the nigella, just because they’re planted at such a density that transplanting doesn’t really make that much sense. You’d have to just be burying a million plants right next to each other. But we have been transplanting the anise and the caraway and of course the fennel. And that’s partially to get a little bit of a jump on the season and on the weeds in our field [laughter]. If we can translate something, we tend to do that just because there’s less slug pressure and weed pressure for sure.

    Margaret: Yeah. Oh, absolutely. So then it’s funny, I also saw that you’re growing sesame. And just a week or two ago, I had talked to people that you also know, Dylana Kapuler and Mario DiBenedetto at Peace Seedlings. And they were talking about sesame, and working on sesame, since it’s really a heat-lover, it’s I guess subtropical or something like that, technically, in its origins, and trying to make a Northern strain or whatever you would call it, a Northern selection of it. And you’re doing that, too. You’re interested in sesame, too. Have you been having fun with that?

    Sarah: Yeah, it’s been really great. I think we were partially inspired by them. We had tried to grow sesame years ago and just failed outright and then visited with those guys in 2024, I guess, and they gave us the secret to success of how to grow it. There is in one part the germplasm, the seeds that you’re starting with, being adapted. But then there are also a couple of different tricks. So we started with their Shades of Sesame that they talked about, which is really great. And then also worked with some people at Oregon State University who had accessed some Northern-adapted sesame germplasm from USDA GRIN—the germplasm repository—and done a little bit of selection with stuff that they got out of Russia, basically. So we grew all of them together and sort of did another selection, based on what grew well from that.

    And yeah, sesame is great. It’s another one that I think I want to grow a lot more of, because it’s such a high nutritious crop that you can grow on the garden scale. And also they’re just so pretty. The flowers are kind of like foxglove flowers almost.

     

    Margaret: Yes. You said they’re reminiscent of tobacco or foxglove [above].

    So just to detour a little bit and take a little time to talk about some of the other sort of herbs that you offer that I think people should make room for, and maybe they don’t [laughter]. I love that you have lovage, a perennial herb. I mean, I’ve had my lovage plant, I don’t know, 25 years or something like that, I mean at least. And it’s just this delightful creature and never gives up, just keeps producing sort of celery-ish flavor. But you have some interesting ones that I don’t really know about, like this plant called Alexanders [Smyrnium olusatrum], I think. Is that what it’s called?

    Sarah: Yeah, Alexanders [above]. It is interesting that it’s not as well known. And this is actually another plant that came from Alan Kapuler, I think, is how we know it to have been introduced into our sort of local gardening scene. And it’s not a perennial, it’s like a biennial or triennial sort of thing, but it is another kind of ancient herb that goes back to ancient Romans used it, and it can be found throughout a lot of Europe. And it’s really got this delightful celery, almost parsley—there’s some floral notes to it—kind of a flavor. And it’s one of these plants that once you get it established, if you let it go to seed, it will self-sow readily and sort of always be present in the garden. But it is another one because it’s in that umbel family that its flowers are yellow, but it also is another sort of haven for the beneficial insects as well.

    Margaret: I think you have lovage [above] in the catalog, too, which isn’t an herb exactly. I use it to make soup—and excuse me, not lovage, sorry, lovage I already mentioned. I mean sorrel [below]. Sorrel, I eat it like a salad as well. It’s delicious, like lemonish, right?

     

    Sarah: Right. Yeah. The sorrel’s very lemony.

    Margaret: Yeah. Is that something that people … Is it popular with people? I mean, do you guys enjoy it? I love it. And that I must have had 30 years. I mean, it’s a patch; it’s been growing for 30 years, a perennial [laughter].

    Sarah: And they just take care of themselves. I mean, I think we have one, we have a patch as well, and it is something that we definitely… people buy it. The culinary use, I think, of sorrel and a couple of other of our perennial greens, they have this particular time of year when they really shine. And when they’re valuable in the garden and in the kitchen is sort of this early spring where they have this lush growth early on, before any of your annual garden things get going. And it’s just like, “Oh, a fresh green thing.”

    And I’ve been on a real salad kick lately. I’ve been eating mostly chicories, but I’ve just about finished them. And so in a walk in the garden today, the sorrel is up; the leaves are a couple of inches long. And then we’ve got the sculpit is another one, or Silene inflata that tastes lettucey, and is also I think known as bladder campion—it has these little balloon kind of flowers. That’s good in salads.

    Margaret: In the last minute then or so, just any others that you want to say, “You know what? Give this a try because you probably never heard of it, but … ” [Laughter.]

    Sarah: I mean, I really just want to plug: Patience dock [Rumex patientia] [above] is a new one that we added this year.  It’s a dock, right? So we have yellow dock in our garden or field that’s weedy, but Patience dock is native to Central and Eastern Europe. It’s a perennial leafy green, and it really tastes just very similar to a mild spinach. And again, it’s something that fills that early season.

    Margaret: Oh, I’ll go look for that one, too.

    Sarah: And also it’s really great in a sort of permaculture setting, like under fruit trees and a lower story, because it grows early in the spring and then it’s kind of done everything it needs to by June. So then if your fruit trees are leafing out, then-

    Margaret: Perfect partners. Well, Sarah Kleeger of Adaptive Seeds, thank you so much for making time. And I’m going to look now at these other ones, too; I didn’t notice some of those, so that’s great. Thank you. And I hope I’ll talk to you again soon.

    Sarah: Yeah, likewise. Thanks so much, Margaret. Take care.

    (All photos from the Adaptive Seeds website.)

    more from sarah kleeger

    prefer the podcast version of the show?

    MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 16th year in March 2025. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Feb. 16, 2026 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

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  • Mother’s Day gift guide 2026: 20 thoughtful ideas – Growing Family

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    Mother’s Day has a funny way of creeping up on us, doesn’t it? One minute it’s January, the next we’re frantically searching for something that feels a bit more thoughtful than the usual go-to gifts.

    Whether you’re buying for your own mum, a grandmother, a new mum, or dropping heavy hints for yourself, this Mother’s Day gift guide is packed with ideas that feel thoughtful rather than rushed.

    From lovely home accessories and hobby treats, to pampering ideas and family experiences you can share together, these are gifts chosen with real life (and real mums) in mind.

    Looking for meaningful Mother’s Day inspiration? This Mother’s Day gift guide is packed with thoughtful ideas for home accessories, hobby treats, pampering gifts and family fun. Whether you’re buying for mum, gran or a new mum, these handpicked ideas for 2026 make choosing the perfect present easy, personal and genuinely appreciated.

    VistaPrint photo book from £13.79

    A personalised photo book is a lovely way to celebrate mum, and will be enjoyed year after year. Vistaprint offers a choice of 8 sizes and up to 120 pages, plus you can customise the cover for a unique gift.

    Bloom gin gift set £36.90

    Add some glamour to her G&T with this beautifully presented gift set. Includes a 70cl bottle of jasmine and rose gin and a pretty pink glass.

    RISE coffee gift subscription from £24

    Perfect for mums who love their coffee, this gift box features ethically sourced coffee from independent roasters, plus tasting notes, expert brewing tips, and a free treat in every box.

    ROSA coffee cup candle £28

    This gorgeous candle will fill a room with the scent of a rose garden at twilight. The handmade ceramic tumbler can be refilled or repurposed as a coffee cup after use.

    Smarter card game £24.99

    If mum’s a fan of family games, this high-energy card game is a great option. Packed with trivia, puzzles, impressions and lateral thinking tasks, it’s fast, funny, and fiercely competitive.

    Dual tip art markers £44

    If mum loves her art or colouring this bumper pack of alcohol markers is ideal. It includes 48 vibrant colours plus a colourless blender.

    Women’s gardening gloves £31.95

    A great pair of gardening gloves will alway go down well with green-fingered mums. This luxury pair from Ferverfew will keep her hands dry, warm and protected. Available in 4 sizes.

    BrüMate 887ml Straw Tumbler £36.95

    Upgrade her straw tumbler with this stylish and practical design. It’s fully leakproof, suitable for cold and carbonated drinks, and has a cup-holder friendly base.

    Rose gold electric toothbrush £110

    Who says functional can’t be chic? This award-winning sonic toothbrush delivers deep but gentle cleaning without compromising on style.

    French Soaps gift set £25

    This collection of premium soap bars makes a lovely sustainable gift. It’s presented in a magnetic gift box and finished with a reusable denim pouch.

    HYPO21 purifying skin spray £52.99

    An indulgent wellness gift, this clinically proven skincare mist gently hydrates, soothes and restores the skin barrier and is suitable for sensitive skin.

    Thermos Icon flip lid bottle £25

    Ideal for staying hydrated in style, this durable bottle keeps drinks cold for up to 24 hours and is easy to clean.

    MÄNNKITCHEN Pepper Cannon £175

    One for the serious cooks, this ultra-premium pepper grinder has a huge grind range, powerful output, and looks beautiful too.

    Mary Berry Botanical Oval Platter £28

    Inspired by Mary’s love of gardening, the delicate botanical design on this fine China platter brings a little bit of nature to the dining table.

    Nordic Ware Pirouette bundt pan £54

    If mum’s a keen baker she’ll love this premium bundt pan. The beautiful swirl design creates a stunning cake with minimal effort.

    Lost Loom Bamboo Duvet from £95

    Premium bedding is a brilliant way to upgrade mum’s downtime. This Bamboo duvet is naturally breathable, temperature-regulating, and luxuriously comfortable.

    Orla Kiely duvet set from £40

    Bring a little bit of nature indoors with this striking print 100% cotton duvet set.

    Sherpa Neha Long Tank Dress £75

    This lovely dress will come in very handy as the weather warms up. ‘Neha’ means ‘love’ in Sanskrit and every sale gifts a day at school for a child in Nepal.

    Mother’s Day doesn’t have to be complicated. In fact, the loveliest gifts are often the simplest ones – the things that show you’ve really thought about what would make her smile.

    Whether it’s something for her home, a hobby she loves, a bit of well-earned pampering or time spent together as a family, the right gift is the one that feels personal. Hopefully, this Mother’s Day gift guide for 2026 has given you plenty of inspiration to choose something mum will genuinely treasure.

    You might also like to take a look at our Mother’s Day nature crafts for some homemade gift inspiration.

    Pin for later: Mother’s Day gift guide 2026

    Looking for meaningful Mother’s Day inspiration? This Mother’s Day gift guide is packed with thoughtful ideas for home accessories, hobby treats, pampering gifts and family fun. Whether you’re buying for mum, gran or a new mum, these handpicked ideas for 2026 make choosing the perfect present easy, personal and genuinely appreciated.Looking for meaningful Mother’s Day inspiration? This Mother’s Day gift guide is packed with thoughtful ideas for home accessories, hobby treats, pampering gifts and family fun. Whether you’re buying for mum, gran or a new mum, these handpicked ideas for 2026 make choosing the perfect present easy, personal and genuinely appreciated.

    All prices are correct at time of publication.

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  • Strawberries in Containers

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    Growing strawberries in containers is the best way to enjoy this pretty, easy-to-grow berry. Learn how to do it the best way and get the biggest yield.

    When most people think of container gardening, flowers are often the first things that come to mind. Container gardening is becoming increasingly popular as an easy and inexpensive way to brighten up your space. In addition to flowers, this year try something different: strawberries in containers.

    Strawberries are one of the easiest plants to grow in containers. With strawberries, you get a plant with pretty foliage and flowers. Of course, you also get the added benefit of yummy fruit to snack on too!

    Different Types of Strawberries

    There are three main categories of strawberries: June-bearing, Everbearing, and Day-neutral. Each type is better suited for a specific container.

    Something to keep in mind is that when shopping for strawberries, the varieties will not always specify which category the strawberries will fall under. Ask the garden center associate to aid you in the category identification.

    Woman holding a heart-shaped strawberry attached to a vine

    June-Bearing Strawberries

    June-bearing strawberries produce a large, concentrated crop once a year during late spring or early summer (usually in June). They send out a lot of runners that can quickly become a tangle of vines.

    Because of this, June-bearing strawberries are better suited for a garden bed instead of a container.

    Everbearing Strawberries

    Everbearing strawberries’ fruiting season stretches from early spring until fall. They send out fewer runners and will not produce as much fruit as the June-bearing types.

    Although it will produce fewer berries, it’s enough for snacking and tastes better than any store-bought berries. This category does well in containers.

    Day-Neutral Strawberries

    Day-neutral is a newer variety of everbearing strawberries. They produce more consistently throughout the growing season. Day-neutral strawberries prefer cooler temperatures and will not bear fruit in hot weather. If you live in an area with hot summers, skip this category.

    home grown strawberries in containers freshly picked in a bowlTools Needed for Growing Strawberries

    When you grow strawberries in containers, you’ll have relatively few tools that you need. Plus, you already may have many of these at home! You’ll need to have:

    Type of Pots That Are Best For Growing Strawberries

    When selecting a container for strawberries, pick a pot that will be large enough: at least 8-12 inches wide.

    You may have noticed that strawberry pots look different from your standard plant pots. This is because strawberries have a spreading growth habit and shallow roots.

    For this reason, a specific strawberry pot is often the best place to grow your berry vines. A wide, shallow container is another good choice. Most importantly, the container must have good drainage.

    Lastly, select a pot that is light-colored; this will help keep the plant’s roots cool in the summer.

    close up of strawberries growing out of a pot

    Growing Strawberries in Containers

    Do strawberries do well in pots? Yes, and it may even be possible to grow strawberries indoors. However, you should be very careful and follow these tips to help them thrive.

    #1 Use the Correct Soil

    Strawberries prefer a loose, loamy soil with a pH between 5.3 and 6.5 (acidic). If you are unsure of what your potting soil’s pH is, it’s pretty easy to do a soil pH test at home. All you need is water, vinegar, and baking soda.

    #2 Give the Plants Plenty of Sunshine

    Next, you need to pick a spot that gives the plant lots of sunlight. Select an area that receives 6-8 hours of sun per day.

    #3 When to Plant Strawberries

    You can plant strawberries in the early spring or in the fall (if you live in a warm area). Strawberries are sensitive to the cold weather, so avoid frost if you can.

    Remember, day-neutral strawberries prefer the cold (just not too cold), and will not produce in a hot climate.

    #4 Spread Them Apart

    Your strawberry plants need to be spaced at least 2 ft apart, so only plant 1 or 2 plants per container. Remember, these plants like to spread out as they grow, so give them plenty of room.

    #5 Plant the Seeds in the Container

    Fill the container with a potting mix and make a small mound in the middle. Spread the roots out over the mound. Cover the roots and up to the crown with additional mix and water well.

    How to Care for Strawberries in Containers 

    woman holding three strawberries on the vine - one ripe and red, the other green

    Caring for strawberries in containers is different than caring for them when they are planted outside.

    #1 Water the Strawberries Frequently

    First of all, containers require frequent waterings, but only water when the soil is dry to the touch. You may have to water daily during hot weather. This is because containers dry out faster than soil in the ground.

    The challenge with a strawberry jar is that the shape of it can make getting the water properly saturated to the center of the pot a bit difficult. Without proper watering, your berries will have shallow roots that do not lend themselves to thriving plants.

    One fun trick I use is to employ a DIY watering tube that will help get direct the water to the middle of the pot where it’s needed to grow those juicy berries. I put together a post on Angie’s List showing how to make an easy DIY watering tube perfect for strawberries in containers.

    starwberry pot with diy irrigation system

    Additionally, make sure to feed your strawberries every 3-4 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.

    #2 Overwinter the Strawberries

    You can overwinter strawberries. They will produce better the following year if they are allowed to go dormant during the winter.

    If you live in an area that gets extremely cold, move your strawberry containers into an unheated garage or basement in the winter. Water the container only when the soil becomes dry. In milder winter climates, mulch up around the container and leave it until spring.

    You can read a bit about how to overwinter succulents in this post. It’s a similar concept.

    Do you have to replace strawberry plants?

    Strawberries are short-lived perennials. Even with the most dedicated care, you will have to replace the plants about every 3 years.

    No worries, though. Enjoy them for a season, then reevaluate. If you are able to get them to grow again for an additional summer, it will be well worth the effort.

    I’m a big fan of strawberries, as you may be able to tell from the list below! Here are posts for everything you need to know about these sweet berries from how to grow them to how to eat them!

     

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Identifying and Managing Emerald Ash Borers in the Mountain West – Fine Gardening

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    Here in the West, the ash (Fraxinus spp.) has long been a first-choice tree due to its dependable constitution. Today, ash comprise between 20 and 25% of the urban canopy by square foot in Fort Collins, where I live and garden. The arrival of the emerald ash borer (EAB) is certain to change that. An invasive pest, the beetle’s young feed on the living layers beneath the bark of ash trees, girdling the trees and cutting off the flow of water and nutrients between their roots and canopies. Perhaps the most concerning aspect of the spread of this pest is the mortality rate for trees it infests; nearly 100% of the ash typically used in the West are dead within several years of infestation. In large part that’s because the ash we use widely, including green ash (Fraxinus pennsylvanica, Zones 3–9) and white ash (F. americana, Zones 3–9) have no natural defenses against the pest, which evolved feeding on species of Asian ash that do bear natural resistance.

    How EAB is spreading west

    EAB has been gradually working its way across the country for the last 20 or so years since it arrived in the Upper Midwest in the early 2000s, likely as a hitchhiker in shipped wood or pallets. The weak-flying adults are a primary means of its spread there, where a patchwork of woods rich in ash trees provides the ideal conditions for this pest to cover a lot of ground. In the West, the nearly treeless Great Plains stopped its spread for years. As far as the beetle is concerned, the West itself is more or less an archipelago of treed towns separated by unnavigable food deserts. The pest is more likely to arrive in ash wood products and firewood bundles moved from one town to another. Sadly, for us, this means that though EAB won’t spread far on its own in the West, its presence in your city is only one firewood bundle away.

    This resplendent green ash, spotted growing in Santa Fe, highlights another reason ash became so overplanted in the West: Not only do the trees adapt and grow well in our unforgiving climate, but they also color more reliably than most shade trees through our unpredictable falls. Photo: Bryan Fischer

    So far in the West, the EAB has established itself up and down the Colorado Front Range Urban corridor, the Grand Junction, (Colorado) area, and in the Portland, Oregon, area. For a detailed map of its spread by APHIS/the USDA, see here: EAB Infestation Map. The brilliant metallic-green adult beetles typically only fly a half mile or less from their host tree, meaning that if left to its own devices, the pest takes years to make its way across a city after establishment.

    EAB was first detected in my region in Boulder, Colorado, in 2013 and took around seven years to cover the 60 miles to Fort Collins, likely in firewood driven between the two cities. It then took five years to cover the final three and a half miles to my street, more likely by natural flight. Finally, last summer, my shady and relatively pleasant three-block walk to the grocery store was turned into an overheated slog through what suddenly felt like a concrete jungle after around half a dozen mature ash were cut down along the route due to EAB infestations. The trees had looked just fine the summer prior, though it’s likely the pest had been in the trees for more than a year.

    Symptoms of an EAB invasion

    green ash infested with EAB
    A green ash that is dying due to an infestation of emerald ash borer. Photo: David Cappaert, Bugwood.org

    Obvious symptoms on the trees were similar to but more extreme than symptoms caused by other borers:

    • Branch or twig dieback
    • Reduced vigor
    • Leafing out late in spring (some with tiny leaves)
    • Patchy to widespread dieback in tree canopies
    • Exit holes in the bark (especially up and down the trunk) where the beetles emerge after maturing

    There are two signs to look out for that distinguish the EAB from other ash borers in the region, like the native and not especially harmful lilac/ash borer:

    • Exit holes will have a distinctive “D” shape (⅛-inch diameter, flat on one side, and otherwise rounded)
    • Widespread twig death that occurs over the entire canopy simultaneously; it can be gradual or sudden

    Lilac/ash borer is already widespread across our region. It routinely causes minor or moderate twig and branch dieback on mature ash and leaves round O-shaped exit holes. It rarely causes the severe, widespread canopy damage seen with EAB and is more harmful to stressed trees. EAB successfully invades and kills virtually all American ash, even healthy, mature specimens.

    Extreme weather events, like cold snaps or drought, can also cause canopy death in ash, but typically in such cases the damage is self-limiting rather than worsening with time. There also isn’t the profusion of growth from the interior of the tree crown that is associated with borers. If you see trees in your area that show damage consistent with EAB’s feeding, check in with your local county extension office. If it is in your yard, consult with a professional arborist for a diagnosis.

    EAB Management


    Treatment

    healthy ash tree
    No matter the method you choose, remediation of a severe EAB infestation is not cheap. To potentially save your trees, and wallet, have healthy ash trees surveyed now to catch any infestations at an early stage. Photo: Paula Gross

    So far, the only effective treatment for EAB is systemic insecticides. In the cases of mature specimen ash, sentimental trees, or those that provide significant benefit for your home (like a shade tree on the west side of your house), their use is often warranted. That being said, treatments aren’t cheap if done professionally, do carry some harm to nontarget insects, and must be carried out on a rolling, three-year basis to remain effective. While some smaller ash can be treated by the homeowner, I personally wouldn’t do so. The insecticide is typically applied as a soil drench, carrying greater risks to both the applicator and environment. Also, it is less effective than professional trunk injections so must be done more frequently.

    Removal

    In the case of young trees, those with less value to your property, or those that could be done without, removal is typically a more sustainable option—both environmentally and fiscally. Removing trees killed by this pest is often more expensive than removing healthy ones, due to dead and dying wood becoming brittle and the need to properly chip or dispose of infested wood—therefore, early removal can save money.

    Replacement

    large bur oak
    Several oak species, like this bur oak (Quercus macrocarpa, Zones 3–8), make excellent ash substitutes for the West, with some attaining even greater size. Photo: Bryan Fischer

    If treating sounds unappealing but removal would be detrimental to your property, consider shadow planting a replacement tree. The concept is to use your mature tree as a shelter for an establishing sapling; once the mature tree starts to fail and is removed, the sapling will be fully established and grow in more quickly than one planted in full sun after the ash is removed. To do this, find a suitable replacement tree and plant the sapling far enough from your ash tree’s trunk so that removal will remain safe and as easy as possible when the time comes. A 15-foot distance between the two is a good minimum.

    If removal and replacement or shadow planting is on the table, below is a quick list of shade trees adapted to our region that can make good ash replacements; all are durable and adaptable, each with its own strengths and weaknesses:

    Northern catalpa tree in bloom
    For a large tree with extra interest, Northern catalpa (Catalpa speciosa, Zones 4–8) makes for an impressive display. Photo: Michelle Provaznik
    • Northern catalpa (Catalpa speciosa, Zones 4–8) is an easygoing and unique-looking shade tree with massive leaves, handsome clusters of throated white flowers in early summer, and unusual, foot-long, bean-pod-like seedpods.
    • Netleaf hackberry (Celtis reticulata, Zones 4–9) is a superb wildlife tree, very adaptable, and quite drought tolerant. It is a “no frills” option that is among the toughest and best for wildlife on this list.
    • Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba, Zones 3–8) has a unique leaf and form, good fall color, and a shape that is usually narrower than other options on this list.
    • Honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos, Zones 3–8) is adaptable and drought tolerant, and has good fall color. There are some problems with canker in locales where these trees are stressed by extreme heat or drought on the Colorado Front Range in recent years.
    • Kentucky coffeetree (Gymnocladus dioicus, Zones 3–8) is adaptable and drought tolerant, but some forms drop large seedpods. Look for seedless (male) types, like Espresso™.
    • Plains cottonwood (Populus deltoides, Zones 3–9) is an adaptable and drought-tolerant wildlife tree, though only suitable for large lots and away from buildings due to brittle, rot-prone wood. However, resulting holes and snarls make great homes for birds and critters.
    • Gambel oak (Quercus gambelii, Zones 4–8) is adaptable, drought tolerant, and has a huge variety of growth habits ranging from running shrubs to single-trunk trees. Look for those known to retain tree form, like Gila Monster™.
    multi and single trunk gambel oaks
    Gambel oak often grows as a thicket-forming shrub or a small, multi-trunk tree (left). However, the single-trunk cultivar Gila Monster™ is a great ash replacement option (right). Photos: (left) Bryan Fischer, (right) David Salman
    • Bur oak (Q. macrocarpa, Zones 3–8) is a particularly large tree that is adaptable and drought tolerant once established.
    • Chinkapin oak (Q. muehlenbergii, Zones 5–7) is adaptable and drought tolerant, with some forms featuring deep, rusty red fall color.
    • Shumard’s oak (Q. shumardii, Zones 5–9) is adaptable and handsome but not quite as drought tolerant as other oaks mentioned.
    • Japanese pagoda/scholar tree (Styphnolobium japonicum, Zones 4–8) is an unusual summer-flowering tree (hanging clusters of cream blooms) with elegant, compound leaves that give an airy feel but can be messy due to dropped pods in summer.
    • Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum, Zones 4–9) is a deciduous conifer that is more drought tolerant and adaptable than its origins in swamps may suggest but still loves soils of moderate or greater moisture. It has proven itself attractive and dependable in irrigated landscapes around Fort Collins and some other parts of the Colorado Front Range. Consider it worth trying but not entirely proven in other areas in the West.
    • David elm (Ulmus davidiana, Zones 5–8) is a particularly tough elm resistant to both Dutch elm disease and elm scale (the cause of the sticky coating and black, sooty mold on everything below some elms). This tree is quite adaptable and reliable with irrigation and attains a great size.

    Final thoughts

    While emerald ash borer is already proving catastrophic for some places in the West, it may not reach others for years. So, having an ash in your yard now doesn’t necessarily require action if the pest hasn’t arrived in your area. If you’re in a situation like mine, with active infestations in your area and an ash-heavy tree canopy, action is warranted sooner than later. Currently, I counsel friends and family in my area to remove or shadow plant under most ash in advance of infestation, saving and professionally treating those of unique value (shade for home, sentimental, or otherwise), and replacing those removed with a lesser-used but reliable shade tree. At least an opportunity to grow a new-to-you tree is a small silver lining. With time, it’s likely that the West will replant its urban canopies to avoid more damage by these beetles. It is also possible the ash will return to our canopies, thanks to genetic work by plant breeders and scientists alike, similar to the increasingly likely return of the American chestnut (Castanea dentata, Zones 4–8) through comparable means after the chestnut blight epidemic.

     

    Learn more about managing tree pests and diseases:

    Discuss this article or ask gardening questions with a regional gardening expert on the Gardening Answers forum.

    And for more Mountain West regional reports, click here.

    Bryan Fischer lives and gardens at the intersection of the Great Plains and the Rockies. He is a horticulturist and the curator of plant collections for a local botanic garden.

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  • A Love Letter to Sanguisorbas – Gardenista

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    I came to gardening, as many of us do, not necessarily out of a love of the natural world but because of a fascination with flowers. In the beginning, I was attracted to those big, vulgar things so often used as a punctuation mark within a planting scheme: the bright yellow colon of hollyhock or full-stop exclamation point brought by a sunflower’s radial symmetry.

    When transitioning to garden design in my late twenties, I would occasionally send photos of floriferous encounters to my grandmother—enormous tree peony blooms at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, or creamy magnolias from my morning walk to work on the High Line. She was withering on her deathbed from Alzheimer’s, even though in my mind’s eye she will forever be crouched on her knees in the southern sun, toiling in a bed of dark pine mulch, her once-round cheeks surrounded by the acidic zing of wax begonias. The texts were sporadic because I didn’t know how to talk about dying. It occurs to me now that in sending them I was probably, on some subconscious level, hoping to fill her back up. 

    When I was studying horticulture at BBG, I had a teacher who talked about the first time he actually saw a landscape: not in the literal sense, but as a composition that was made by the sum of its parts. He spoke of how he was able to tease out the nascent forbs from the grasses, to read the silvery underside of certain pioneering shrubs and understand how they were linked to the calciferous earth below. This, I think, is what separates everyday passion from some degree of expertise: an ability to identify and confidently theorize about the minutiae working together to create a larger whole. Strangely, I can’t remember much else about the course, or even what it was.

    Clouds of Thalictrum rochebrunianum and Sanguisorba tenuifolia ‘Pink Elephant’ in late summer. Photograph by Nick Spain.
    Above: Clouds of Thalictrum rochebrunianum and Sanguisorba tenuifolia ‘Pink Elephant’ in late summer. Photograph by Nick Spain.

    With practice, that ability to zoom in on the details slowly came to me as well. I first spotted the fine, merlot-colored dots of Sanguisorba officinalis peeking out at the very back of some naturalistic garden, hidden between drifts of grass and backdropped by a shock of yellow—maybe Amsonia? I’ve long lost the image, but it’s bookmarked still in my mind, a dog-eared mental page of something I wanted to add to my own garden if and when conditions would allow. 

    Fortunately, those conditions manifested in a northwest-facing bed in my Massachusetts garden, a small strip of earth that stretches along one side of my driveway. Its aspect and location are challenging—constantly drowned beneath the dripline, baked by gravel, and receiving anywhere from two to eight hours of harsh afternoon sun depending on the time of year. During the time that had passed between that initial sighting of Sanguisorba officinalis and the creation of this bed, my rolodex of the species had grown. Sanguisorba tenuifolia, S. armena, S. obtusa, and their myriad cultivars drifted in my mind, and although not all could or would ultimately make the list, I decided to give many of my favorites a shot. 

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  • Johanna’s Beautiful Blooms and Shapely Shrubs in South Carolina – Fine Gardening

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    Happy Friday, GPODers!

    We’re ending the week with a sweet sampling of color, thanks to Johanna Smith in Aiken, South Carolina (Zone 8, which used to be 7a/7b). Johanna has shared some standout plants from her garden a few times in the past (Johanna’s South Carolina Garden, Fall in South Carolina, and Winter in South Carolina), and today she is back with more bright blooms and vibrant foliage that make her southeastern garden sparkle.

    I have been gardening for more than 50 years. We’ve always had a garden, and we did it as a family. When we retired from New Jersey and moved to South Carolina, I found gardening to be more of a weather challenge, but once I got used to the various weather and soil changes, it was a great learning experience.

    Prickly pear cacti (Opuntia humifusa, Zones 4–9) in bloom

    hydrangea with blue bloomsBlue bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla, Zones 6–9) in bloom. This was the first thing we planted in the spring of 2008.

    small rosebush with red flowersThis Red Drift® rosebush (Rosa ‘Meigalpio’, Zones 4–11) was a broken branch given to me by my friend. I rooted it, and it turned out to be a real stunner.

    rosebush with a single red flowerI purchased this Douglas rose (Rosa ‘Douglas’, Zones 4–11) on clearance at Home Depot.

    shrub with shiny green foliageWe have several osmanthus plants, which have tiny white and orange flowers with wonderful fragrance.

    two rounded shrubsThe euonymus and boxwood make a sweet pair on the stroll to the front door.

    large shrub with purple flowersI love this chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus, Zones 6–9). For years I tried to find one, and made this purchase from Amazon.com. It is a beautiful blueish color, and the bees and birds enjoy it as much as I do.

    tall shrub with dark down foliageThis Black Diamond® crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia ‘Ebony Flame’, Zones 6–9) is gorgeous from spring until late winter. In the spring, it starts with green leaves, which turn red and then black with red flowers.

    various evergreens in foundation bedsThis is the evergreen side of the house, home to a large holly that has tiny yellow flowers. The bees enjoy this, and it’s usually home to several bird families. There are also junipers, euonymus, pittosporum, and mock orange plants (Philadelphus coronarius, Zones 4–8) that lead the eye to the red crape myrtle at the other corner of the house.

    light purple irisesThese are irises that were given to me by another friend. They have survived and multiplied, and they look great with the liriope.

    Thank you so much for sharing your delightfully diverse garden with us again, Johanna! It’s lovely to see your pretty blooms and interesting plant selections.

    Please consider sharing your garden journey with the blog. Whether you’re a lifelong gardener with decades of experience like Johanna, or just started your plant obsession, we would love to hear from you. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

     

    We want to see YOUR garden!

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

    You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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    GPOD Contributor

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