Because your garden soil compacts too easily and can harbor organisms that may cause diseases it’s a better choice to purchase a prepared seed starting mix. A good commercial seed starting mix is often a blend of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite.
I like to thoroughly combine the seed starting mix with warm water to make it usable since a dry mix is difficult to work with. You may want to let your seed starting mix sit wet overnight before using to assure that it is evenly soaked. The final product should be evenly dampened but not soggy wet.
Select Your Tomato Seed Containers:
As long as your tomato seeds get sufficient moisture, warmth and drainage almost any container will work. I used to use styrofoam cups with holes punched in the bottom. I’ve found that commercially available seed starting kits with peat or plastic containers are easy to use and proven successful. Most gardening stores will carry seed starting containers with single or multiple cells. I now use commercially available 128 cell seed trays.
If you choose to reuse older plastic containers, I suggest sterilizing them first with a light bleach solution (5-10%)
Your choice of the container that will best fit your needs depends upon how many plants you wish to start.
Decide When to Start Your Tomato Seeds:
Avoid planting too early to prevent plants from becoming root-bound or spindly. Sow your certified tomato seeds 6-8 weeks before planting your seedlings outdoors. Planting your seedlings outdoors should be scheduled around 2 weeks following the average last frost date for your region. Check the climate zone map on TomatoFest or ask your local nursery or gardening friends for the best date for you to plant.
Planting Your Tomato Seeds:
I advise planting 20% more seeds than the number of plants you’ll want to allow for seeds that may not germinate or seedlings that become damaged. It’s generally pretty easy to find a home for seedlings you won’t be using. Fill the container with dampened seed starting mix. Tamp down mix to get air out. Plant your seeds a maximum of 1/4 inch deep. Then tamp downmix again lightly. Dampen soil mix thoroughly with a gentle drizzling of water.
Put your containers or tray into a loose-fitting plastic bag (leaving the end open for circulation. Some air circulation is good but don’t let the mix dry out because dry seeds won’t germinate.
Wait for Germination:
This is the hard part. Be patient. Place your containers in a warm location out of direct sunlight. Light is ok, but not needed during the germination process.
If the temperature is kept consistently and sufficiently warm, your tomato seeds will usually germinate within 5 to 10 days. Best to keep the temperature range 70 to 80F (21 to 27C). The lower the temperature the slower the germination. However, temperatures below 50F (10C) or above 95F (35C) are poor for germination. (Some varieties need more time to germinate.) When seeds start coming up remove the tray from a plastic bag.
Watch for the first seedlings, because they will need to be moved into a good light source as soon as they begin to emerge from the soil. If the light is not adequate, you will get long, leggy stems shooting up which is not good.
Give Your Seedlings Light:
Many home gardeners use windowsills. The light your seedlings receive on a windowsill may be adequate but most often is insufficient and may lead to leggy growth as a result of seedlings stretching for sunlight. If you have no other light source than a windowsill, turn your seedlings regularly. For ideal growth, set up full spectrum grow lights or white fluorescent lights just a few inches above the seedlings. Be creative to find a way to get your seedlings directly under the lights.
Remember, strong light is needed to support tomato growth. Your lights should stay on for 14 to 16 hours per day.
Growing seed Problems
Damping Off: Characterized by a lack of germination or a narrowing of the newly emerged tiny seedlings at the soil line that flop over and die. Various soil fungi are responsible for this condition that are found in any seed starting mix that contains real soil. Also, can be caused by having the plastic that covers your new seedlings tight enough to not permit airflow.
Leggy Seedlings: “Leggy,” seedlings means the stems are elongated and limp, flimsy with sparse foliage. Leggy seedlings usually occurs with insufficient or indirect lighting, too much heat, or too much fertilizer. If this occurs for you I suggest you consider repotting the seedlings deeper in your pot, use a fan to improve air circulation and keep temperatures slightly cooler for stockier and hardier plants.
Slow Growth: Have patience. When seedlings seem to be taking forever to grow, it is usually due to low temperatures or inadequate nutrition. Over-watering: Many growers harm their tomato plants by over-watering. Soggy soil may cause your tomato seeds to rot. Once the seedlings have started, they should be watered thoroughly and then left unwatered to dry until they are almost ready to wilt, then watered again.
Over-fertilizing: I’ve seen this often from over-anxious gardeners. Over-fertilizing can actually work against your seedlings. This may cause them to stop growing, to grow too rapidly into spindly plants, or even die. One or two applications of very dilute fertilizer are plenty to get a seedling growing to transplant size.
Time to Start Your Tomatoes
Tomatoes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow from seed and now is the time to start tomato seeds indoors. The seeds themselves are easy to handle and can be planted in any type of container you have around the house. I prefer to start 3 seeds in 2″ pots; however, yogurt containers, milk cartons, & even egg cartons can all be used.
The key to starting tomato seed is:
Pre-moisten your potting soil before planting
Don’t plant the seed too deep – ½” is usually enough
Keep the container warm – I like to keep my containers at about 75 F (25 C)
Keep the container moist but not soggy – try not to overwater
Once the seedlings are up, move them to a cool but bright location. A week after the seedlings are up, transplant them into individual pots along with some compost or worm casts for food. Within another 3 weeks, the seedlings will outgrow their containers & will be potted up again. This time, they’re potted into 6″ containers where they will stay until they go into the garden.
Being a gardener comes with the understanding that, for the most part, you are in a cooperative relationship with Nature. It’s an ongoing relationship of learning to become a more capable manager of the favorable and unfavorable conditions and variables that present themselves.
Acceptance
In the past, I’ve experienced major disease loss (10,000 plants killed by a blight), periodic infestations and ongoing challenges with weather or soil borne diseases and garden pests. However, I’ve come to a wonderful part of my gardening life.that of acceptance. that I’m just one part of the whole lifecycle process of nature and my environment.
My influence in my gardening practice is only a temporary one and carries with it a responsibility and respect for all other forms of life. Although I’ve challenged many times, especially by gophers, deer and a variety of bugs and viruses, I’ve made the personal choice not to poison.
I support sustainable farming practices and a comfortable degree of cooperation with the critters and the pests that enter my garden.or my life.
In the information that follows I hope to be of some assistance in alleviating some of the frustration that comes with identifying a problem, and how best to alleviate the difficulty.whether that means taking action, no action, or learning to accept what you cannot change, or to prepare you for future successful tomato harvests.
I intend to provide you additional information here in the future. I’m hoping you find this information useful and I welcome your feedback. – Gary Ibsen
Blossom End Rot:
Blossom end rot is most often caused by a calcium deficiency, which can be due to an acidic soil, irregular watering and water-logging, or an ongoing high humidity with a low transpiration generally caused by reduced air movement.
Calcium is an essential plant food in the soil.
When there is an excess presence of soluble salts such as ammonium, potassium, magnesium, or sodium the effective concentration of calcium available to the plant decreases more rapidly than that of other salts. Both excessively dry and excessively wet weather can adversely change the ratio of calcium salts.
Heavily pruned tomato plants appear to be more susceptible to blossom end rot.
Advice: On watering: Do not over water your young plants. Once a seedling is established it should be encouraged to develop a deep and extensive root system by stressing the plant slightly by letting it dry slightly. (Watch your plant. It will let you know when to water again.) With a sufficient root system, the plant is more capable of drawing up sufficient nutrition and water.
Give your plants a good watering on the day of planting so the soil becomes nicely saturated. In the first week of planting, water again every couple of days, then extend the period between watering, cutting back to a good deep soaking once a week in the first month. After 2-4 trusses of flowers have set is the time to increase watering. Then water your plants regularly and evenly.Mulching the soil and watering as needed during dry spells should keep the problem in check.
To help avoid problems developing, I suggest encouraging better air circulation under the plant by planting seedlings sufficiently apart to allow for airflow. I usually trim the bottom 16″ of each plant of all stems and suckers other than 4-5 main stems. This serves to reduce the relative humidity around the base of the plants.
To help avoid blossom end rot, add some super phosphate fertilizer, fertilizer that is high in phosphorous and low in nitrogen. Work it into your soil before you plant your tomato plants. You can use calcium sulfate, better known as gypsum, in place of the super phosphate. An application of lime may also assist as a side dressing.
Blossom-Drop:
This is a very common problem and not easy to correct since this is most commonly caused by the weather. Many tomato varieties will set fruit only within a fairly narrow range of night temperatures. Temps above 55 degrees for at least a portion of the night are required for the first fruit set and night temps above 75 degrees can inhibit fruit set and cause blossom drop. With night temps below 55 the germination is so slow that the blossom may drop before fertilization occurs. Most of the cooler growing region varieties can set fruit at lower temperatures and there are, as well, varieties that will set at temps above 75 degrees at night. Every area has its good and bad years for growing tomatoes that may show up in only portions of the summer. (Like a heat wave could hit for several days and knock the blossoms off.) Advice: In the early spring you can try to increase the night temperatures by covering the young plants with a fabric cover or tents. Offering some protection from strong winds helps, and you can even try this.daily vibration of the flower clusters to increase fertilization. Probably the best you can do is to keep your plant healthy. (Healthy kids are less apt to catch a cold.that sort of reasoning.) By watering deeply you encourage roots to dig deep and the plant is less vulnerable to minor stresses. Make sure that your soil contains adequate organic matter. Apply a balanced fertilizer at planting and again when fruit forms. And remember that too much nitrogen encourages the plant to grow more foliage. not more fruit. Nothing you do will guarantee fruit set. But having patience will help you feel better till the weather changes.
Septoria Leaf Spot:
Leaves on the lower branches of tomato plants are typically affected with brown spots, followed by yellowing or browning of the leaves. Wet weather may encourage the disease to progress up the plant.
Advice: Try mulching to help reduce soil splash onto the plant, which can in turn reduce leaf diseases. Lift your plants off the ground. Staked tomatoes will have better air circulation, which will discourage disease.
Also, it’s best to remove the infected leaves as soon as you notice them to help reduce spread. I suggest removing the infected plants at the end of the season and also practice a 3-year crop rotation.
Sunscald:
Sunscald most commonly appears on immature, green fruit. It first shows up as a white or yellow patch on the side of the fruit that faces the sun. Spot usually developes into a blister then forms a grey-white spot with a papery surface.
Advice: Leaf cover is your best protection. Plants that have been properly watered, and nourished have the best chance of growing a lush, protective canopy of leaves. Trellising or cages are best to protect your tomatoes. Don’t buy those wimpy conical cages. Your tomato plant will outgrow these in no time.
I suggest tying up your plants in a trellis between stakes or make your own from concrete-reinforcing wire available at lumber yards. Make these cages about 30 inches in diameter and for better stability you may wish to attach each one to a stake driven into the ground. You’ll create a dense, protective canopy of foliage if you tuck the leaf stems into the squares of the tomato cage.
Catfacing:
A problem that occurs to the blossom end of the fruits when they become puckered with deep scars that penetrate the fruit. This most often occurs only to large fruited varieties when bloom set happens during cooler weather. Bloom set during warm weather will probably not result in catfacing. So this is another case where noting can be done except hope for warm weather at the time of bloom set.
Fruit Cracking:
There are two kinds of fruit cracking – radial and concentric. Radial cracking is the most common. This occurs during rainy periods when the temperatures are above 90 degrees, especially when the rains come after a long dry spell. These are conditions that encourage rapid growth to ripening fruit. Tomatoes that are exposed to more direct sunlight, versus having good canopy coverage, are more susceptible to cracking.
Advice: Encourage even watering of your plants and an adequate canopy of leaves for shading from the sun.
Leaf Roll:
This is not the leaf roll caused by disease. This is the kind of leaf roll caused by prolonged rains and a saturated soil.or even by pruning your plant too much. (Some varieties are more susceptible to leaf roll than others.) The lowest leaves are the first to roll, and rolling continues throughout the plant’s leaves.
Advice: The best you can do is to maintain a uniform soil moisture, and an even watering schedule. Using a mulch can help level off moisture level peaks and falls.
Insects:
The actual damage done by insects is generally minimal compared to the damage done by spreading diseases by the insects. This is the primary reason for controlling insects. The best recommendation I can offer is to remove weeds from around the perimeter of your tomato plants. These are perfect breeding places for insects.
Whiteflies:
I hear of whitefly problems often.most often from gardeners in the Southeast and in tropical islands. This pest is more than frustrating. Both the adult whiteflies and the larvae can damage tomato plants by sucking the sap from the leaves and excreting a sticky honeydew that coats the leaves and fruits. A black sooty fungus then grows on this honeydew. Whitefly infestation will cause wilting, deformed new growth and plant damage. Whiteflies can also transmit some plant viruses.
Advice: Regularly check the undersides of leaves to monitor for both adults and nymphs. And watch for flying whiteflies by gently knocking your tomato leaves. This is a good way to monitor adult activity because they are easily disturbed and will fly away. Your local garden center may also sell yellow sticky cards for measuring the number of adult whiteflies that are flying. In a small-garden environment, these sticky cards may also manage your whitefly populations by killing the adults.
One of the best methods for avoiding whitefly problems is to buy clean plants. Inspect your tomato plants before you buy them with whiteflies already on them.
Spraying water from the garden hose underneath the leaf can also reduce the number of adults and reduce the number of eggs being laid. You can benefit greatly by trying beneficial insects. In nature there is almost always a predator or parasitic insect that feeds on a pest insect. The insects that destroy plants are ‘bad insects’ and the insects that prey on the bad bugs are ‘beneficials’ or good insects. Lacewings and Encarsia Formosa are some of the best beneficials you can release.
Hornworms:
Hornworms can eat considerable amounts of foliage off your tomato plants.
Advice: These can be picked off by hand. Your best control is to keep an eye on your plants for invaders.
Early Blight:
This is a fungus and a problem in moist areas of spring/summer rains. This is not usually a problem in the arid areas of the west. Early blight shows up as small, irregular, brown, dead spots on lower, older leaves. The spots then grow to ½-inch in “bulls-eye” patterns. The whole leaf then may go yellow. As fruit begins to occur, when suffering from blight, the older fruits may show dark leathery sunken spots.
Late Blight:
This is a fungus that can be serious during extended periods of muggy, damp weather with cool nights and warm days. Fungus shows up as greasy, black areas on the leaves. A fine gray mold can be seen on the leaf underside during wet periods. Hot dry weather usually impedes the progress of this fungus.
Verticillium Wilt:
The first indication of verticillium wilt is a yellowing of the first, older, leaves along with a slight wilting of the tips. These older leaves soon wither and drop off leading to the whole plant losing its leaves. All branches of the plant tend to look weaker than the branches of healthier plants. In the late stages of the disease, only the uppermost branches remain alive. And the loss of the plant’s foliage leaves the fruit open for sunscald.
Advice: Provide well-drained soil for your plants. Crop rotation for 4-5 years with non-related crops.
Fusarium Wilt:
This is one of the most damaging and prevalent, soil-borne, tomato diseases.
This fungus over-winters and survives for many years in the soil. The disease is spread is by seed, transplants, and soil on farm machinery or even footwear. The organism generally doesn’t cause serious loss problems unless the soil and air temps are steadily around 90 degrees. Fusarium wilt is noticed in seedlings with drooping of the oldest leaves usually followed by the plant’s death. Older plants can be affected at any stage of growth but most often during maturing of the fruit.
The earliest symptom is a yellowing of the older leaves. The yellow leaves gradually die off. Frequently a single shoot is killed off before the rest of the plant shows any sign of a problem.
Sometimes only one side of the plant shows problems. If you cut lengthwise the stem of a wilted plant, the woody part next to the green outer cortex shows a dark brown discoloration of the tissue.
Advice: The best way out of this is the rotation of crops other than tomatoes for several years.
The following is a list of tomato terms I assembled to provide you useful information while you shop for the most suitable varieties of tomatoes for your garden.
Beefsteak – A type of tomato rather than a variety (although there really is a particular variety named ‘Beefsteak.’) Usually considered a large, irregular shaped tomato with solid flesh. Cotyledons – The first leaves formed from the seed.
Crack Resistant – A tomato that inherently resistant to cracking, a problem usually caused where rain falls sporadically, or where there is excessive rain.
Cultivar – The variety of a plant. However, technically there is a difference between cultivar and variety. Cultivar is considered to be a product of intentional breeding whereas Variety is the product of accidental crossing. The terms are commonly used interchangeably.
Determinate – When terminal buds set fruit plant growth stops. Plant needs little or no staking. Harvest is only about a week to ten days.
Globe – A round shaped tomato.
Heirloom – An heirloom is generally considered to be a variety that has been passed down, through several generations of a family because of it’s valued characteristics. Since ‘heirloom’ varieties have become popular in the past few years there have been liberties taken with the use of this term for commercial purposes. Heirloom tomato experts, Craig LeHoullier and Carolyn Male, Ph.D. have classified down heirlooms into four categories: Commercial Heirlooms: Open-pollinated varieties introduced before 1940. Family Heirlooms: Seeds that have been passed down for several generations through a family.
Created Heirlooms: Crossing two known parents (either two heirlooms or an heirloom and a hybrid) and dehybridizing the resulting seeds for how ever many years/generations it takes to eliminate the undesirable characteristics and stabilize the desired characteristics, perhaps as many as 8 years or more.
Mystery Heirlooms: Varieties that are a product of natural cross-pollination of other heirloom varieties.
Note: All heirloom varieties are open-pollinated but not all open-pollinated varieties are heirloom varieties.)
Hybrid pollination – Cross pollination accomplished by removing anthers of parent x before the release of pollen. Y parent’s anther tube is opened and pollen removed to deposit on stigma of parent x.
Indeterminate – Plants that will keep growing and producing new blossoms even after fruit set. Harvest may last for several months.
Locules – Chambers within the tomato’s fruit that hold the seeds within a jelly-like substance. Most fruits have 2 or more chambers and large fruited varieties have as many as 10.
Lycopersicon esculentum – The genus and species name for Tomato. All plants have a genus and species name, which are indicated in italics.
Maturity – The number of days from transplanting seedling to the first mature fruit. Early-Season varieties generally mature between 55 to 68 days; Midseason varieties- 69 to 79 days; Late season varieties from 80 days and beyond.
Oblate – A slightly flattened round shape of a tomato.
Open-pollinated – Seeds from open-pollinated varieties produce plants and fruit that are identical to their parent. (Note: All heirloom varieties are open-pollinated but not all open-pollinated varieties are heirloom varieties.)
Personal favorite – A variety that has been a favorite through years of growing.
Pollination – Pollen grains released by anther and fall to the stigma, usually of the same flower.
Potato-leaf – Foliage without indentations on leaf margins. Looks similar to leaves of potato plant.
Regular-leaf – Foliage with indentations on the leaf margins.
Semi-Determinate – tomato plants are larger than determinate (bush types) but smaller than Indeterminate plants. These plants usually require staking.
Widely adapted – A variety adapted to growing well in several growing zones.
Your seedlings will grow best around 65F (18C) with gentle air circulation and lots of light. Research has proven that lowering seedlings’ night-time temperature (55-60 degrees) and occasionally brushing your hands gently across the tops of the seedlings a couple minutes a day will contribute to stronger plants.
When your seedlings develop their first true leaves, they can be transplanted into larger containers. This re-potting will be good for the seedlings since this will help them develop a strong root system. When re-potting, seedlings may be set deep into their new containers to shorten the height of the seedling. The extra length under the soil will produce additional roots.
Harden Off Your Tomato Plants before Transplanting:
To reduce the risk of shock from transplanting, your seedlings should be gradually conditioned to the outdoors for about 2 weeks before planting them in the garden. Begin with 1 to 2 hours of exposure to the outside elements each day, then increase the time slowly until you can leave them out day and night.
Introducing plants slowly to outdoor conditions is called “hardening off”. The longer the plants remain indoors, the harder it will be to acclimate them to the outdoors. Be sure to avoid full sun and wind when you first move your plants outside. If the temperature drops below 40F (4C), bring the plants back inside till it warms a bit.
After the transplants are “hardened off”, they can be re-planted in their final outdoor growing locations, either in the garden or in large pots.
Tomatoes are a great, nutritious, and rewarding plant that you can enjoy for many months to come – but how do you grow them? And, more importantly, how to grow tomatoes in pots?
If you have a small garden or no garden at all, you can still cultivate these wonderful fruits with just a little bit of insight – and very little hard work. This guide or this tomato growing guide provides some insights as to the process that’s required to enjoy your organically grown tomatoes.
Below are also some tips that you may find useful.
Growing Tomatoes in a container
Tips for growing tomatoes in pots
Choose the right types of pot for tomatoes
With growing any type of plant in a pot, you have to remember to make sure there is adequate drainage. If there aren’t drainage holes then your plants will rot, so make sure that your pots have holes to let the water out.
If you are growing a small tomato plant then you can get away with a smaller pot, but if your beast is a larger variety then you will, of course, need a bigger pot.
Remember that smaller pots will need watering more frequently as they are not able to retain as much water.
Select the types of tomato for growing in pots
Just about any type of tomato can be grown in a pot. Whether they are big, beefsteak tomato or small cherry tomatoes, they will all do just fine in a potted environment.
You can grow any type or species of tomato in a pot; just remember that the bigger ones will need a bigger pot environment and the smaller ones will be ok in a smaller pot. You can even get trailing tomatoes that suit a hanging basket environment!
Pick the best soil for tomatoes in pots
Soil that you collect from other planting beds is not the best choice for tomatoes, as it is often too compact and doesn’t give the tomatoes’ roots enough space to grow.
Buy a quality potting mix, which is lighter and better at draining, for your precious pots. You can find this type of soil at any good gardening center, or you can buy soil that is specifically designed for growing tomatoes.
Follow these simple steps to grow seedlings
Take a packet of your chosen tomato seeds and sprinkle a few over the prepared soil. They may not all germinate, so err on the side of generosity.
Water the soil gently so you don’t disturb the seeds too much – use a watering can with a rose.
Cover the seeds lightly with a dusting of soil – no more than an inch deep.
When the first green shoots appear, continue to water when the soil looks dry.
Transplant the seedlings to a new pot when they grow larger, so the roots have more room to grow.
As the plants grow bigger, you may wish to prop them up or tie the branches to a higher level so they can stretch out and grow.
Repot tomatoes to larger posts once ready
You will almost certainly have to transfer your tomatoes to larger pots unless you sow them in the pot that you intend to keep them in. Tomatoes can handle a relatively small pot and still produce well, but like all plants, they need space for their roots to grow.
Let your toms dry out for a day or two. This will make it easier to remove them from their pots.
Prepare the larger pot by filling it about two thirds of the way up with quality compost, and make a well in the middle.
With one hand around the base of your tomato plant, carefully turn it upside down. Pull on the pot to remove it – you can squeeze the edges a little if it is slow to come out.
Place the root ball directly into the larger pot, then fill it with more compost.
Water the repotted plant well, and keep an eye on it for a few days to make sure it settles in.
Pick the best fertilizer to feed tomatoes in pots
Tomatoes are a relatively easy plant to grow – they tend to just grow with very little input from you! However, you can make them grow better, and bigger, by adding a few choice nutrients to their soil.
Tomatoes like Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium, which should be fed to them regularly at the height of the growing season (around once a fortnight is fine).
You can also buy fertilizer that is specific to feeding tomatoes, which you can find at any garden center.
If you prefer a DIY approach, an example of organic fertilizer is crushed eggshells that can be mixed into the soil.
Dos and don’ts of growing tomatoes in pots
Add support once your tomatoes grow. They will need canes to lean up against, and some may benefit from having their tops tied to a high rafter, or being put into a sturdy cage.
Water them regularly. Tomatoes are pretty thirsty, and will like to live in soil that is moist.
Don’t over water. Conversely, too much water can lead to the roots rotting.
Keep them in a sunny place. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sunlight a day to thrive and produce well.
Don’t place them too close together. Keeping your tomatoes close enough that their leaves can touch will not only inhibit growth, but it can spread diseases from one plant to another.
Final words
Growing tomatoes in pots is easy, fun, and very rewarding. It can help to reduce the potential for diseases such as blight, and may also prevent pest infestations – plus it’s a great option for those with limited or no garden space.
Only the highest-quality seed, purchased from a reputable source, should be sown. It will probably have been prepared by acid extraction, to reduce the chances of spreading any seed-borne diseases. Most seedsmen supply their seeds in sealed laminated-foil packets, to prevent moisture absorption and loss of vitality. Seed stored in these sealed packets retains its germinating power for several years. There is little point in saving your own seed but if you decide to do so you should extract it by the hydrochloric-acid method. Do not save seed from any F1 hybrids—they do not breed true to type.
There are about 150 to 250 tomato seeds in a gram; usually 100 to 200 good seedlings are obtained from each gram that is sown. The weight of a seed varies considerably, according to the variety and the conditions under which it has been produced.
Strict hygiene during propagation is essential. The whole crop can so easily be jeopardized by diseases or pests becoming established during propagation. Give careful attention to all the containers, the propagating media, and your working methods. Make sure you take every possible precaution to prevent the introduction of any disease.
PROPAGATING HOUSE Small propagating houses with fixed benches are not suitable for raising tomato plants and are uneconomic. An ordinary tomato house is quite suitable, provides better working conditions, and is easier of access. If plants you are growing are too few to fill a whole house you should consider dividing off with a polythene-film-covered wall the section they do fill. This will avoid having to heat the whole house in winter.
Seed is usually sown in compost, in seed boxes. They must be clean–either new or recently sterilized with steam or chemicals. The `John Innes’ soil mixes are ideal for seed boxes. Fill them to about 20 mm below the top. They should then be firmed and leveled before you add a thin layer of compost that has been sieved through a 3-mm sieve. It is best to soak the box in a shallow tray of water until it is thoroughly wet before the seed is sown. The boxes should stand for a while after soaking to allow any excess water to drain off. Two to four hundred seeds are usually sown in each box. This gives a thin, even covering over the box. The seeds are covered with a 3- to 5-mm-thick layer of finely sieved (3 mm) soil.
The best temperature for germination is between 21 and 24 degrees Celsius. Germination will occur at much lower temperatures, but it is considerably slower. Higher temperatures increase the proportion of `rogue’ or `Jack’ plants produced by most varieties. It is usual to cover the seed boxes with glass and paper during germination and to turn the glass daily so as to remove any condensation. Properly prepared boxes should require no watering between the sowing of the seed and the emergence of the seedlings.
Any attempt to heat whole glasshouses to the ideal germination temperature is likely to prove uneconomic, but local tern-. Peratures can easily be regulated. A bench can be heated by electric soil-warming cables that are controlled by thermostats. Another method is to build a polythene-covered chamber in a shady area and install a tropicalized electric fan-heater and thermostat, with a tray of water to maintain a high humidity. This chamber should not be inside a glasshouse—excessively high temperatures could build up during quite brief periods of sunshine.
A high humidity at the time of their emergence helps the seedlings to shed the seed coats.
Seedlings should be pricked out when the cotyledons (seed leaves) are fully expanded and lying horizontally. In a temperature of 21 to 24°C the seedlings will be ready on the tenth day after sowing. Before pricking them out loosen them by sliding a small wooden label under the roots. Lift the plant by one of the cotyledons—not by the stem, which may cause damage. Only vigorous, healthy seedlings should be pricked out. Discard any plants whose cotyledons are caught in the seed coat. Do not attempt to remove the coat if it is stuck on to one of the expanded cotyledons. In doing so you may transfer tomato mosaic virus from the coat to the seedling.
The John Innes potting compost that contains double the rate of base fertilizer (JIP2) is strongly recommended. Extra phosphate may be required —many New Zealand loams are strongly phosphate fixing. The potting compost you use should be sterilized, preferably with steam. In steam Sterilizing loam-based composts you must be careful not to cause manganese toxicity in the seedlings. This can generally be avoided by steaming the loam, peat, and sand separately before you mix them with the base fertilizer. The components can all be steamed at the same time and layered in the same batch, as long as they are not mixed. If the loam is very acid, liming it to about pH 5.5 to 6.0 before you steam it is recommended. The usual amount of lime should also be included with the John Innes base fertilizers.
Plants raised in boxes have proved to be greatly inferior to those that are raised in pots or soil blocks. The size of the pot or soil block is most important; 76-mm-diameter hexagonal soil blocks and 100-mm-square plastic pots have been found adequate.
Overseas research has shown that night temperatures of 16° to 17°C, with day ventilation at 21 °C, are best for raising tomato plants. In New Zealand, plants grown at these temperatures have performed well. They have become established rapidly and produced good early yields. At lower night temperatures (12° to 13°C) plants grow and bear fruit more slowly, but produce larger trusses. Plants that are raised in cold houses (minimum temperatures above 2° to 3°C) have trusses that are not much larger than those raised at 12° to 13°C but they do take much longer to propagate, establish more slowly, and their fruit is ready for picking very much later.
Tomato plants must have ample water while they are in the propagating stages, but it is equally important not to water them so much that its nutrients are leached out of the potting compost. Any attempt to produce `hard’ plants by restricting the water supply will result in small, dark-green plants which produce lower yields than softer plants that are grown with plenty of water. Watering daily is recommended in good weather; less frequently in dull weather.
To judge the amount of water to put into a plastic pot is difficult. You should turn out a few plants each time you water and check that the soil at the bottom of the pot is moist but not too wet. In heated glasshouses the young plants can be watered from overhead with a small-bore hosepipe fitted with a fine rose; there is no need to worry about wetting the leaves. Young seedlings in cold houses can be watered in the same way, but there may be less disease risk if larger plants are watered in their pots, with a small hose running slowly and keeping the foliage as dry as possible.
Watering and spraying are easier when the plants are standing on the floor of a glasshouse rather than on benches in a propagating house. The floor should be raked level and covered with black polythene. This prevents the plants from rooting down into the floor and helps to prevent the soil structure from being damaged during the propagation period.
Plants that are standing `pot thick’ in beds on the floor require the least labor for watering. They can be `stood out’ in this way immediately after being pricked out. They should be spaced out as soon as the leaves of adjacent plants begin to touch; there should be 15 cm between each plant and its neighbors.
Spacing out is necessary if short, stocky plants are to be produced. Overcrowding will result in tall, spindly plants with high first trusses. If they are standing pot thick in a large single bed in one section of the glasshouse, considerable labor will be needed to space them out.
While they are standing pot thick, plants should be in relatively small beds, close to their final situation. In the type of layout shown on p. 30 no plant has to be removed more than 1 m during the spacing-out operations. Rogue plants and any that are not up to standard should be discarded then. Pegs are needed at the corners of the plots to prevent plants from being knocked over by the hoses.
As a general rule, planting out early produces earlier and better yields than does late planting. However, if the temperature, light, or soil-moisture conditions are unfavorable, early planting will increase the risk of plants `bolting’ and of aborting flowers on the first truss. Growers who know from experience that bolting risks are low should plant out 6 weeks after sowing. If there is any risk of them bolting, the plants should be held in the propagating house until the first flower is visible. For winter plantings this will normally be about 8 weeks after sowing in heated propagating houses or 8 to 10 weeks in cold houses.
PLANTING
Planting methods vary, not only from one district to another but also within a single district. One point that has become evident in recent years is that a given area of ground has a certain potential yield. Plants that have adequate breathing space may not produce a greater yield per unit area but an increased yield per plant is likely. Each plant benefits from having more light and air and there are fewer to string and to trim. Also, the fruit tends to be larger. Our staff have settled on 0.28 m2 as the optimum area for a tomato plant. Other districts favor very slightly closer planting. In many areas the F1 hybrids are the most popular. Their extra vigor is wasted if they are planted too close.
Some growers prefer single rows 75 cm apart, with plants between 35 and 40 cm apart. Others prefer a double row and a wider walking path. The rows are usually about 60 cm apart and the walking path is about 90 cm wide. In some districts the glasshouse is planted lengthwise; in others crosswise planting is preferred. You would be well advised to discuss the subject with your local horticultural advisory officer.
Trickle irrigation in one form or another is becoming universal. If you lay out the harness before you begin planting the trickle nozzles will show you where to put the plants. There should be no more than 10 cm between the nozzle and the base of the plant. On soils which tend to pack it is a good idea to make a slight depression near each plant. This will check the run-off of the trickle feed. The plant should be a good deal deeper than it was in the soil in its container. This will cause a secondary root system to develop above the primary roots and give the plant greater feeding ability and greater stability. The soil in which the plants are set out should be neither cold nor unduly wet.
Plants are supported as they grows by gently twisting around them a length of binder twine that hangs from an overhead wire about 2 to 3 m above soil level. The plant is tied in a fairly loose reef knot below the second or third leaf from the ground. Always be careful in tying and twisting. Any damage to the plant, even a mild abrasion, can be a point of entry for grey mould (Botrytis cinerea). Laterals should be removed about once a week, beginning about 3 weeks after planting.
They readily bend and break off from a healthy plant. If this work is carried out under dry conditions there is less risk from botrytis. The same applies to unwanted foliage. As the leaves grow older and larger they shade one another and are less effective in manufacturing carbohydrates. Removing them improves the air circulation, which also reduces the risk of disease.
A sound general policy is to leave at least the top 1 m of foliage on the plant and to remove the rest. Trimming should be carried out even after the plants reach the wire. The training methods at this level vary. The inverted arch system was tried and found successful at Levin. A pamphlet describing it is available from your local MAF office. About 6 weeks before the crop is to be pulled out the plants may be stopped one leaf above the flowering truss. This encourages the upper trusses to swell, so that there is a minimum of unripe fruit at cropping time.
Too often training over the wire is done only when there is time for it. This is a pity—to neglect it is likely to significantly affect the yield.
WATERING AND FEEDING
When something goes wrong or is out of balance the grower must be able to recognize it quickly. He must also be able to determine the average daily needs of all his tomato plants. The local horticultural advisory officer (Master Gadener) is usually able to draw on his local knowledge and suggest a watering schedule suited to the particular crop, soil type, and growing season. This serves as a basis but should be adjusted from time to time, as necessary.
An evaporimeter provides a more accurate estimate of the daily requirements. A simple and effective one was designed overseas. A round tray is made by slicing 10 cm off a 200-1 (44-gal) drum. A brass or copper point is welded on to the center (or pointing inward and downward from the top edge) to act as an indicator. The tray contains about 7.5 cm of water. It is checked daily and, when necessary, replenished to exactly the same level. The tray is painted inside and out with a white, anticorrosion protective paint. A tray that is cut from a 200-1 drum is approximately 570 mm in diameter. It has a surface area of 2568 cm2, which is very close to the recommended area for a tomato plant (equivalent to one plant per 2510 cm2). Experiments have shown that there is a close correlation between the amount of water that evaporates from such an open water surface and the total water loss from a similar area of glasshouse soil plus plants. The evaporimeter is, therefore, a guide to the water loss from the whole glass-house.
It is advisable to average the loss from at least two evaporimeters in each glasshouse. They are best placed on or above the collarties, and in average conditions of temperature, sunlight, and air movement. They should be kept well away from ventilators and heating pipes, and out of any shadows.
Theoretically, the amount of water to be added to the evaporimeter each day should be equal to the amount that is needed by each of the plants to replace the water it has evaporated. In practice, there is usually a slight difference—solar radiation is not the only thing that affects the plants’ water uptake. The condition of the soil, its soluble-salts status, the type of heating system, and the health of the plants are some of the other things. The positioning of the evaporimeters, even when carefully done, may also introduce some error; however, it will be constant for the time of the year and the stage of the crop. Once determined and recorded, it can be used unaltered from season to season.
It is best expressed as a multiplication factor. Supposing that the evaporimeters need an average of 400 ml each day to keep their levels steady. Theoretically, the plants should also need 400 ml of water each through the trickle system. Reading the plants and the occasional soil check may indicate that not quite enough water is being applied after a week a double watering may be needed to restore the soil moisture level. This double watering supplies an extra 400 ml, which represents the under‑watering of a week—therefore 400/7 = 57 ml more water per day should have been applied.
Instead of the 400 ml, 457 ml or 1.1 times the evaporimeter reading was required. This 1.1 multiplication factor should be noted down and used to convert all future evaporimeter readings. (A reading of 500 ml will require a 500 x 1.1 = 550-ml watering, etc.) The actual multiplication factor can run from 0.9 to 2.0 but is usually between 1.3 and 1.4.
With a uniform cropping plan and provided there are no drastic alterations to the glasshouse or in the situation of the evaporimeters, the multiplication factors, once recorded, can be used each season, again and again. A set of notes incorporating these factors should be kept in each glasshouse, somewhere near the container that is used to check the output of the trickle harness.
Remember that it will always be necessary to keep an eye on the development of the plants. The watering rate must be cross-checked from time to time, so you will need to develop the ability to `read’ your plants.
Most of the tomatoes grown in locally are watered and fed by `trickle irrigation’; one or two outlets near each plant provide it with water and dissolved nutrients. Most of the systems release very little water at each watering point (about 1.5 l/h) to make it possible to water as many plants as possible from a single tap. For instance, a B.S.P. standard 12.7-mm (1/2-in.) Tap with an output at ordinary mains pressure of, say, 2400 01 used at a drip rate of 1.5 1/h per plant will water 1600 plants at the same time.
There are several methods of watering through permeable plastics. Some commercial systems rely for their output control on small nozzles, where the water is forced through a screw thread. Lately, so-called `micro-tube’ systems have come into use. The trickle is gained by passing the water through short lengths (up to 60 cm) of very small-bore polythene tubing (0.875 mm). Microtube systems can be made quite easily at home and are cheaper than the traditional nozzle systems. They all distribute Water through several large-bore (25 mm or so) plastic or rubber hoses that run the length of the glasshouse. They have smaller laterals (9 to 12 mm) that branch into one for each plant row and into which one or two nozzles or microtubes are inserted alongside each plant. Usually a water-fertilizer mixture is applied; it is rarely water alone. There are various ways of injecting the fertilizers into the irrigation water. Readily soluble fertilizers can be dissolved directly into a raised feeder tank. A strong fertilizer stock solution is usually made up by dissolving the fertilizer in hot water. This is stored in a container that has a diluter head to feed the solution into a stream of water passing through at a set rate. The diluter head and the container with the fertilizer are connected in line between the tap and the distribution system (usually called a `harness’).
To avoid any plant sitting continuously in a puddle, you should make sure that there is an outlet about 10 cm away from the base of each plant. It is advisable to make especially sure that the outlets of microtube harnesses are firmly in place; home-made wire staples are useful for this.
Trickle irrigation is a labor-saving device—it cannot completely replace hand watering and the application of fertilizers by hand without some detriment to the crops. Its main weakness is the lack of horizontal spread. On nearly all soil types, regardless of how much water is applied, there is a tendency for the moist zone under each outlet to grow smaller and for the soil between these areas to dry out. The roots of the plants thus become confined to a very small area. This forces them down deeper, below the level of sterilization, into soil which may be diseased. It also makes the plants very sensitive to any irregularities in the watering and feeding programmes—the buffering effect of the greater volume of soil is lost.
You must therefore try to maintain the area of the moist soil and of the plant roots.
The best ways of doing so are the occasional use of the hose and the use of low-trajectory sprinklers late in the season. These treatments should begin as soon as it is obvious that the area of soil that is kept damp by the trickle outlets is contracting. You can see this from the surface, but preferably during a period of settled, bright weather. You will need to repeat this observation every 4 to 6 weeks. Any watering should be either preceded by a dry side dressing of at least 25 g/m2 of sulphate of potash or followed by at least z 1 of strong (1 in 100 or 1 in 150) high-potash trickle feed. This prevents the plants having access to water with a low salts content, which may lead to ripening disorders. An alternative and possibly more labor-saving way is to take each pair of trickle laterals and place one between the pair of plant rows and the other in the path. The water can then be spread by moving the outlets 10 to 15 cm at a time, applying about 1 of trickle solution to each new position before moving the outlets back again.
Late in the season, when all the fruit and leaves have been removed up as far as the wires, low-trajectory sprinklers can replace all the other watering methods. This mobilises the nutrients through the entire soil mass; evens out the spread of water and nutrients; and drawing the roots to the surface, allows them to ramify everywhere.
Experiments have shown that a relatively few formulas cover all the requirements, regardless of the locality or the season. The main differences lie in their strength (‘dilution’) and in the relationship between their potassium and nitrogen.
Magnesium also is supplied through the liquid feeding programmed, but the remaining major elements (calcium and phosphorus) cannot be efficiently supplied through a trickle system. They do not move freely through the soil and must therefore be applied as base dressings, dispersed through the soil by cultivation.
A simple code is used to express the potassium to nitrogen ratio of the various trickle feeds. The solutions can be bought as proprietary mixtures or made up from pure chemicals. The following table indicates the main types, with their constituents, their potassium to nitrogen ratio, and their code name.
Material
Quantity for 10 liters of water*
Approximate potassium to nitrogen ratio
Codename
Sulphate of potash
2kg
Potassium only
K
Nitrate of potash
2kg
3:1
2KN
Nitrate of potash Urea
2kg 400g
2:1
2KN
Nitrate of potash Urea
1.8kg 1.6kg
1:1
KN
*An average diluter bottle holds 101(about 21 gal).
Magnesium sulphate is usually added to the stock solution at the rate of 50 g/l. In many districts this has been enough to prevent any symptoms of magnesium deficiency in the crop. It is also the maximum amount the standard solutions will absorb without the salts recrystallising when the solution is kept in a cold place, such as an unheated glasshouse. If a higher magnesium content is needed the stock solution must be made weaker. Your local advisory officers will provide guidance on this point.
The chemicals that are used are crystalline (as opposed to pelleted or coated) potassium nitrate (13 percent N and 35 percent K), potassium sulphate (39 percent K), urea (46 percent N), and magnesium sulphate either as Epsom salts (10 to 12 percent MgO) or Kieserite (16 to 17 percent MgO).
Industrial-grade chemicals are preferable as they are easy to dissolve and do not leave any residue. Fertilizer-grade chemicals usually leave some impurities after dissolving. They must be removed by overnight settling or by filtering. Where necessary, a suitable dye (fluorescine, magenta, or disulphine blue) is added to keep a check on bottle contents. A stock solution is made from 6 g of the chosen dye in 1 of water, and 5 ml of this is added to each litre of the fertilizer solution.
Trials have shown that there is no need for any great variation in the chemical content of the trickle feeding solution. The season and the geographical area determine the most commonly required formula. Thus a KN solution is the main feed for all of the warmer areas. For the colder area, the main feed is a 2KN one, with a 3KN feed during adverse weather.
The dilution rate of the stock solution and the amount of trickle irrigation that is required are to some extent related. Together they form the tomato grower’s most difficult problem.
To induce proper development of their floral parts and fruit, tomatoes need some curb on their early growth. Their root development must be kept under control. Tomatoes should be planted in a rather dry soil. At first the plants are `ball watered’—only a small quantity (up to 0.25 1) of water per plant is applied, at intervals of from every second day to 1 week, depending on the seasonal conditions. The area of damp soil around each plant is very gradually extended and the roots are allowed to grow. The plants should grow slowly, with a relatively `hard’ appearance—especially when planted in autumn, winter, or early spring. Summer-planted crops can often be allowed to grow unrestricted.
At this stage it is important to watch the flowers. They should be well up on the head of the plant, open properly with a good yellow color, and be freely visible. Greenish flowers in tight bunches that do not open properly (`oat flowers’) or flowers hidden in a mass of lush foliage warn of later difficulties.
A glasshouse that has been flooded during crop changeover to wash out surplus fertilizers or in which a test has shown the nutrient levels to be low should be ball watered with a strong trickle solution (1 in 100 or 1 in 150, usually of a 2KN-feed).
When the watering programme or the evaporimeter readings call for more than 0.5 1 of water per application the soil under the nozzle will start to become leached. The roots will soon be drawing all their water from the leached area and ripening disorders will become a danger. From then onwards ordinary water must never be used. Always use a fertilizer solution (except when the water spread is being improved in a soil that is relatively high in soluble salts and pure water is applied after the nozzles have been shifted to their alternative positions).
During the rest of the season correct rates and dilutions are the key to successful tomato growing. Continue with a watering programmed based on a district schedule or on your evaporimeter readings, but corrected frequently after reading the plants and checking with a trowel the water spread in the soil. As the quantity being applied increases, the trickle solution is made weaker. A high concentration of salts in the soil water makes it more difficult for the roots to take it up. It is therefore growth limiting. A straight potassium feed at a 1 :100 dilution is the most growth-limiting feed that can safely be used; experience has shown that higher concentrations sometimes cause root damage. The weakest solution you use, late in the season, should be about 1 :350. After that, change to overall watering with hoses or sprinklers.
If the plant roots have become confined to the area under the trickle nozzles, weak solutions may quickly give rise to ripening disorders and (on lighter soils) even to nutrient deficiencies. There is little danger in prolonging the application of the stronger solutions as long as sufficient of them is being applied to allow some water to run away to drainage. A build up of soluble salts occurs from frequent applications of quantities so small that they wet the soil only to root depth and then evaporate away from the surface, leaving the salts behind. This eventually causes root damage.
Recent investigations* suggest that when it exceeds a certain concentration ammonia in solution becomes toxic to tomatoes. Urea in the soil breaks down to ammonia. High-nitrogen trickle feeds based on urea that are used at high concentrations may cause root damage. The concentrations and formulations that have been suggested in this bulletin are believed to be safe, but should not be exceeded. *By Dr R. White
WATER STRESS
There are some symptoms of water stress with which you will need to ecome familiar. They are to be found on the plant rather than on the fruit. They often provide an early warning, before the fruit is damaged.
Where the flower stem (up to 20 mm long) joins the `truss’ or `bunch’ stem there is a slight localized thickening called the `knuckle’ which provides a good guide to water stress. It should be of the same general color as the surrounding stems. If it is pale green or yellow in color, the plant is suffering from a lack of water which, if not corrected, will soon cause the flower to drop off at the knuckle.
The shape of the main stem of a growing plant is another good guide. It should be of approximately the same thickness all the way up, but when a plant is under water stress the main stem becomes thin and stringy while over watering causes it to become fat and succulent, until it is full of rather loosely packed `pith’ tissue. When over watering continues until the plant roots are damaged the pith inside the stem collapses, causing `hollow stem’. This is easily felt from the outside. If it occurs the watering programmed needs to be corrected at once.
Even slight over watering will eventually cause the plant tips to turn pale. They will go gradually from light green to yellow to almost white, although a network of fine veins will remain green. This effect is probably caused by poor root respiration interfering with the uptake of certain trace elements. It is usually fully reversible.
The quality of glasshouse tomatoes depends mainly on correct watering and feeding and on the absence of `ripening disorders’. Any other factors that influence the quality are usually varietal characteristics.
The effects of water stress and of an excess of soluble salts cannot very well be separated. All tomato soils are well supplied with minerals, and any drying out always causes a higher concentration of mineral salts, while watering dilutes them. The effects of drought are, therefore, usually combined with symptoms of an excess of salts. However, extremely high salts levels may affect plants even though the soil is quite moist.
High salts produce slow growth, wiry stems, and short internodes. The foliage is a shiny blue-green and the leaves are hard to remove. The flowers are small and bright yellow to almost orange. The fruit is small, very dark green (especially on top), and ripens through a mahogany color to an eventual bright red.
Low salts produce a plant that grows quickly and has a thick, brittle, pale green stem. Its leaves are large and break off easily, or soon fall off. The flowers are large and pale yellow to creamy. The fruit is large and soft. It ripens through whitish green to eventual pink, and usually exhibits disorders of the blotchy ripening type. Affected plants may be found even in apparently dry soils. In wet soils they `guttate’—they produce water droplets on the leaves at night and are wet by morning.
HEATING AND VENTILATING
Temperatures that are too high or too low will adversely affect plant growth and fruit production. Hence these two factors are usually treated under the one heading.
A heating system should be designed to provide an even temperature, ‘ thermostatically controlled, throughout the cropping space. Trials are going on to determine the optimum temperature for satisfactory plant growth, both vegetative and fruiting.
Experiments indicate that from planting to picking the day temperatures in unheated houses should be between 21 ° and 24°C. After picking has begun they should be reduced to between 18° and 21 °C. This should improve the late yields and reduce any humidity problems, but it can only be managed with careful ventilation and (usually) by planting in late summer, late winter, or early spring.
A heated house provides greater temperature control. From planting to picking 18°C at night and 20°C by day are recommended, with ventilation starting at 21 °C. After picking has begun these temperatures can be lowered by about 3°C. An efficient heating system is therefore required and many growers have been dismayed by its cost. However, preliminary trial work has shown that the extra cost of the fuel is more than made up for by bigger yields at a time of higher prices.
In districts with a high relative humidity, an increase of one or two degrees in temperature will lower it and thus reduce the likelihood of disease.
Ventilation is the main temperature and humidity control. In a normal glasshouse there is ample exchange of air. Any urge to open it up early in the morning and close it at twilight should be ignored. When to open or close the ordinary shutter-type ventilators should depend on temperatures. Automatically operated ventilators are slowly growing in popularity. Which of a house’s vents are opened and how widely depend on the direction of the wind and on the inside temperatures.
Every glasshouse must have adequate provision for ventilation. The area of its ridge ventilators should equal at least one-sixth of the floor area. Side vents are desirable; they are much easier to install while the house is being constructed.
CULTIVATING
Each plant is trained as a single stem, up to a wire. When it is 30 cm high you should remove its two lowest leaves and tie a binder-twine reef knot below the third leaf. Make the loop large enough to allow the stem to swell. Tie the other end of the twine to the overhead wire with a bow knot, leaving a slight sag in the twine between the plant and the wire. As the plant grows, support it by twisting the twine around it.
From 3 weeks after planting remove all the laterals before they reach 10 cm in length. If they grow too big they waste plant energy and the large wounds they leave when they are removed provide an entry for diseases.
When the fruit on the second truss is of marble size, remove all the leaves below the bottom truss. Snap them cleanly off at the main stem. This helps to keep the base of the stem dry and disease free. Laterals snap off more easily when the plants are turgid.
After planting out, a light overhead damping with water on sunny days will help reduce moisture stress. In warm weather more than one damping per day may be needed. On sunny winter days damping down is sometimes used to avoid watering if bad weather is forecast within the next 36 hours. Such watering may cause the plant to grow too quickly during the bad weather and lead to a deterioration in its fruit quality.
Damp down no later than 2 p.m. in sunny weather and never in bad weather. The leaves must be dry before sunset; diseases attack leaves that are wet at night.
Overhead damping that is sufficiently forceful to shake the flowers also helps the natural setting of the fruit. If pollen drops out (`flies’) from the flower when it is shaken, the weather is warm enough for natural setting and damping down will help. If the pollen does not fly, damping down will not help.
Sprays may be used in winter to promote adequate fruit setting and swelling. As they open, the flower trusses are sprayed with a fruit-setting solution that is diluted according to local conditions. The more liquid you apply, the weaker the solution can be.
A fungicide is added to the dilute solution to stop botrytis disease from growing on the dead petals and spreading from them to destroy the young fruit. Check on fungicide materials with your local MAF advisory officer.
A truss is sprayed when there is an open flower on it. Some growers spray weekly, others every 10 days. A very short burst into the flowers may be enough. If the plant head is in the line of fire, use your gloved hand to protect it from the spray—otherwise it may suffer hormone damage. If a nipple or a spike develops at the blossom end of the fruit (opposite the fruit stalk) your spraying has been too vigorous and prolonged.
The classical symptoms of hormone damage (narrowness and veins that run parallel) may develop in young leaves that get a good dose of fruit-setting spray. This can be confused with hormone-weedkiller damage, but mild and scattered cases at the start of the fruit-set season are probably caused by the fruit-setting spray. They do not affect the fruit crop.
When shaking the flower causes the pollen to fly, the weather is warm enough for natural setting and hormones are not required. In marginal conditions, pollen is most likely to fly between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., while the house is warmest. Tapping the wires and overhead damping both promote natural setting.
After planting, a 3-cm-thick mulch of untreated sawdust is sometimes spread over the paths. Don’t use black, partly rotted sawdust (it releases ammonia gas which burns the leaves) or treated sawdust (the chemicals in it damage the plants).
The sawdust mulch is pleasant to work on and by reflection increases the light in the glasshouse. It rots slowly during the season and, when the crop comes out, is worked into the ground to add to the organic-matter reserves. It does not upset the soil’s nitrogen balance when it is used in this way.
HARVESTING
There are almost as many ways of picking and packing glasshouse tomatoes as there are growers of them. A great many ways are adaptations to suit a particular set of circumstances. There is therefore no `best’ method, but the following recommendations should ensure the highest possible quality.
Tomatoes should be picked as early as possible in the morning. The plants are then well supplied internally with water and the tissues are brittle enough to allow easy picking (even of some new varieties that have rather strong vascular strands). The fruit will also be well supplied with water and at its firmest. It will thus be better able to stand some water loss by transpiration during transit. It should not have been exposed to any sunlight and will still be as cool as (or cooler than) the glasshouse air, allowing it to be graded, packed, and sent away as cool as possible.
At sunrise in most glasshouses condensation forms quickly on the fruit. Ventilators should be opened early to prevent this, otherwise the fruit becomes too wet for picking and must be left until late in the morning. By then it will have become quite warm and this heat will have to be removed if any loss of quality is to be avoided.
Precooling is a highly effective way of overcoming this problem, of preparing the fruit for transport, and of ensuring that it arrives in good condition. Quite a small coolroom can cope with the daily output of the average property. The refrigeration plant should be rather powerful, so that it extracts the heat from the fruit quickly. Adequate air movement is also essential and a fan-assisted circulation system must be installed. Adequate air channels must be left between the stacks of fruit. Although precooling should allow you to pick the fruit at any time of day, in practice early-morning picking is still desirable because it is easier and the fruit is firm. To avoid problems with condensation, the fruit should be properly packed and the boxes closed before they are put into the coolroom and stored until they are to be sold.
Tomatoes are also held in cool storage over weekends or when marketing would be inconvenient. According to the `Handbook on the storage of fruits and vegetables’*, mature tomatoes can be cool stored after being harvested while they are green or partially colored. The purpose is to control the rate of ripening. At 10°C the rate of color change and the development of such disorders as uneven coloring, pitting, breakdown, and poor flavors are much reduced. At a temperature of 13°C, recommended for slow ripening, most varieties retain their good condition for 2 to 6 weeks and change color very slowly. At 16°C the rate of color change increases quite sharply; above 21’C the rate of maturation and other changes increases still further. Tomatoes held at 18°C change color rapidly, without excessive softening. Temperatures of 21°C or above induce rapid ripening and loss of quality. Fully ripe tomatoes can be stored for a short while at 10°C. In some experiments they have stored satisfactorily in 0°C but softening occurs at 2°C. Thus, it is usually risky to store ripe tomatoes for more than a few days.
The time for this is determined largely by marketing conditions. Tomatoes can be picked at any stage from the mature green to the fully ripe—how long they are to be held after picking will decide the issue. The final quality of fruit picked at various stages of ripeness furnishes very little basis for choice—provided it is well grown and handled. Increasing numbers of glasshouse growers aim for heavier pickings during periods of high demand and lighter pickings during market holidays when the demand is low. This is most commonly brought about by heating. The minimum temperature is set at 16°C or higher, which causes accelerated fruit development. (Lowering the temperature to a minimum of 10°C has the opposite effect, but temperatures below this should not be used as they may cause troubles.)
Most tomato varieties are best picked by placing the index finger on the `knuckle’ of the fruit stem, grasping the fruit between the other fingers and the thumb (take care not to dig your nails or fingertips in), and twisting the fruit upwards. A large proportion of the fruit from plants that are well supplied with moisture will retain the calyx when it is picked in this way. In times of high prices, especially in the South Island, the demand is for *Canadian Department of Agriculture, Research Branch publication No. 1260.
Tomatoes with the calices on. Special emphasis is placed on large, starry, bright green calices. In volume-fill packs this practice often leads to damage from stem punctures that occur both in transit and in the shop. It is arguable whether a grower who produces out-of-season tomatoes in the high-quality grades should not go the whole way and use a tray pack to take maximum advantage of the attractive calices that many of the newer varieties have.
The grading equipment should be well padded—fruit should not drop on to any unpadded surface. Tomatoes often carry beads of gum from stem ends and glandular secretions which rub off on the felt linings of graders, grow hard, and damage following fruit as it passes over the grader. Any felt linings should therefore be cleaned frequently. The time and energy this takes should be more than repaid by the usefulness of such a liner, which helps to wipe off any dust and spray deposits.
Grading Standards In November 1972, the grading of standard red-strain tomatoes. They represent guidelines only and should not be regarded as mandatory:
Scope—establishes minimum requirements for `first quality’ and `second quality’ tomatoes at the point of first sale.
Definitions
Clean—free from dirt, dust, insect stains, or other foreign substances and materials. Colored—the surface of each tomato shows a definite change of color from matured green to red. Condition Cloud (blotchy ripening)—patches of tissue of no definite pattern which fail to ripen normally. Greening—a hard green area surrounding the stalk. Hard core—a hard or solid area surrounding the core. Matured—fully developed, or having a degree of ripeness that will ensure the completion of the ripening process after harvesting. Matured green—the surface is still green, the contents of the seed cavities have developed a jellied consistency, and the seeds are fully developed. Red—the surface is colored uniformly red. Damage—any defect or injury which materially affects the appearance or storage quality. Serious damage—surface blemishes of an aggregate area exceeding 15 percent of the aggregate surface area of the tomatoes in the lot, or any deformities as serious as to cause a loss of over 20 percent of the lot in the ordinary process of preparation for use. Disease—any unhealthy condition caused by any fungus, bacterium, virus, pest, or other cause, and including any fungus, bacterium, virus, or pest. Smooth—round types are not noticeably ridged, indented, or other-wise misshapen; other types are not, for the variety, excessively ridged, indented, or otherwise misshapen. Similar varietal characteristics—the tomatoes in any one lot are of the same type and color. Diameter—the greatest width, measured in a line at right angles to the longest section.
3. Sizes—there shall be four sizes only:
(a)large—exceeding 65 mm in diameter, (b) Medium—not larger than 65 mm in diameter nor smaller than 45 mm in diameter, (c) small—not larger than 45 mm in diameter nor smaller than 25 mm in diameter, and (d)smallest (cocktail)—under 25 mm in diameter.
4. Grades First quality tomatoes—shall be clean; of similar varietal characteristics; mature, but not over-ripe or soft; well formed, according to variety; and smooth and free from diseases, damage, and decay. They shall also be free from greening, hard core, and growth cracks. They may be red, colored, or matured green. Second quality tomatoes—shall be of similar varietal characteristics, mature, and moderately well formed. They shall be clean and free from decay and disease, cuts, sun scald, and any serious damage. They shall be reasonably free from greening, hard core, and cloud. Tolerance—in each container not more than 5 percent shall be below the requirements specified for the particular grade.
5. Unclassified—tomatoes which have not been classified: The term `unclassified’ is not a grade, but is a designation to show that no grade has been applied to the lot.
6. Labelling—cases containing tomatoes should be labelled and all labels should provide windows to allow for separate recording of grade, size, colour, and market line number.
END-OF-SEASON HYGIENE
The following program has been adopted by the Horticultural Research Centre:
Keep the crop green by watering it until it is ready to pull out. Dead, dry, crumbly leaves are much more difficult to collect and remove than are green leaves.
Cut stems and strings about 30 cm above ground level. (The stems serve as a handle later on, when you are forking out the roots.)
Remove the tops. Make a good, clean job of cutting through both tops and strings, so that the wires are left clean and free of debris. Disposing of the tops is a problem—they are probably best carted off to the nearest public tip.
Sweep the glasshouse floor with a yard broom. Gather up all the brokenleaves and rubbish. This should be fairly easy as the soil is not disturbed until the roots are pulled out.
Wash down the inside and floor of the house with 1:50 formalin solution. A bucket diluter and high-pressure hose make this job easy.The formalin will kill most pests and disease organisms. Close up the house afterwards and leave it overnight.
Fork out the tomato roots, getting as much of them out of the ground as possible.
This program was designed to reduce the risk of pests and diseases being carried over from one crop to the next. By the end of a season tomato mosaic virus is usually infecting all the tomatoes in glass-houses. It is not controlled by chemical soil-sterilisation–the smaller the quantity of infected residue there is lying around after a crop, the less risk there is of a disease carryover to the next crop. Sweeping up leaf debris and forking out the roots are particularly important steps. Separating the two jobs reduces the risk of infected debris being buried in the soil.
Pests and the spores of such diseases as botrytis and leaf mould on a glasshouse structure and on the surface of its soil are killed by the formalin wash down which precedes the forking out of the roots. These pests or diseases might otherwise be buried in the soil during the removal of the roots and might be protected from the soil sterilants by inadequate sterilisation.
SOIL STERILISATION
Sterilising glasshouse soils to kill or inhibit pathogenic organisms is an essential step in successful tomato growing. For the first one or two seasons you may achieve success without sterilisation, but inevitably fungous diseases and probably such pests as eelworm will establish them-selves. Unless they are checked they will continue to develop until crop yields are reduced. Some will cause the death of plants at any stage of their growth.
Heat is undoubtedly the most efficient means of sterilising soil. In tomato glasshouses it is usually applied as steam. Unfortunately this requires a special steam generator which, with its ancillary equipment, is expensive. The usefulness of steam lies in the fact that it will control all the pests and diseases and most of the weed seeds in an area that is efficiently treated.
There are various means of getting the steam into the soil—grids, steam ploughs, and the `Hoddeson pipe system’ are the main ones. Whatever the system, it should destroy any pathogenic organisms while damaging as little as possible those that are beneficial. At 82°C most pathogens are destroyed but some (notably tobacco mosaic virus) are resistant. Where this is a problem the soil temperature should be raised to as near 100°C as possible. The chart below shows the thermal death point of various organisms.
Several chemicals can be used to sterilise soil. Formalin is an excellent fungicide but does not control eelworm, viruses, or weed seeds. Also it is messy to apply and requires a considerable volume of water if it is to penetrate the soil.
Chloropicrin is the most commonly used material. It gives good control of most pathogens, but does not readily penetrate undecomposed plant material. For this reason, it is not satisfactory on its own where eelworm has been a problem. Also, it has no effect on virus diseases.
DD gives adequate control of eelworm and is frequently used with chloropicrin to control most soil-borne pathogens. Methyl bromide gives excellent control of weed seeds and of eelworm but indifferent control of fungous diseases. Granular chemicals are available and have proved effective, provided they are used strictly according to the directions.
Dosage rates and methods of application vary with the chemical. Your nearest horticultural advisory officer will advise you as to the most suitable material and how to apply it. There are however a few basic points to observe for any treatment to be effective :
The soil must be well cultivated before being treated, and all possible plant debris from previous crops must be removed.
The soil should be moist enough and fine enough to hold together when it is compressed in the hand.
The soil temperature should be at least 14°C and preferably higher when a chemical is being used.
Allow adequate time after the treatment for the chemicals to disperse ; 3 to 4 weeks in most cases.
After the soil has been treated do not cultivate it below the depth to which it was sterilised.
Be careful not to reinfect any soil that has been treated.
The Tomato is highly esteemed as a delicious food when cooked or eaten raw and as a source of juice. It is known to be a source of health protective vitamins and because of the ease with which it can be cultivated, it is one of the most popular of home vegetable-garden crops as well as a commercial crop of vast importance. With comparatively little care the Tomato yields well and produces, over a long season, a succession of delicious fruits. It exists in many different varieties, some having fruits not much larger than a currant, others having fruits that weigh a pound or more each. The fruits are usually red, but varieties with yellow fruits and with pink and white fruits are also grown. In height, the plants vary considerably according to variety.
Characteristically, the Tomato is a lover of sunshine and warm weather. It is grown as a tender annual and is one of the first plants to be damaged by fall frosts; even slight frost harms the tender foliage.
Tomato: A Favorite Garden Crop
The parent species of wild progenitors of the garden varieties of Tomato are two tender perennials that are natives of western South America, Lycopersicon esculentum and L. pimpinellifolium. When cultivated, as they sometimes are in botanical gardens and similar places, they are treated as annuals. The Tomato was introduced into gardens in Europe during the early part of the sixteenth century, but for a long time, its value as a food was not appreciated, perhaps because it belongs in the Nightshade family, the Solonaceae, and so shows a resemblance to many well-known plants that have poisonous characteristics. Before it was accepted as a food the Tomato was cultivated as a curiosity and as an ornamental.
Tomatoes were grown in Virginia by Thomas Jefferson in I781, but according to report they were almost totally unknown in America as an edible vegetable until after 1834, and it appears that another ten years passed be fore they began to attain any real popularity.
The popular name of the Tomato for a long time was Love Apple, and sometimes it was known as Gold Apple.
Raising Plants
Although the Tomato is usually raised from seeds, it is very easily increased by means of cuttings. Side shoots removed from plants early in the season and planted in the sand in a cold frame root readily and may be used to give successive plants that will yield well late in the season.
In the South, the seeds may be sown directly out of doors in carefully prepared seedbeds and the young plants lifted from the beds and set directly in the garden. In the North, and wherever earlier plants are needed than can be obtained by sowing outdoors, the seeds are sown in a greenhouse 8-10 weeks before it is expected to transplant the young plants outdoors. Certified seed (seeds certified by governmental authorities as having been collected from plants free of seed-borne disease) only should be sown
When sowing indoors, prepare pots, pans, or flats (according to the number of seeds to be sown) by placing drainage material in their bottoms and filling them with a sifted, rather sandy soil mixture (loam, sand, and leaf mold, humus or peat moss in about equal proportions make a good mixture). Water the soil thoroughly with a fine spray and sow the seeds, spacing them about half an inch apart and covering them with soil to about a quarter of an inch.
Keep the newly sown seeds at a temperature of 60-70 degrees; shade them at first, but, as soon as the seedlings emerge from the soil, expose them to full sunshine. Maintain the soil in an evenly moist but not a constantly saturated condition and keep the plants growing in a greenhouse having a night temperature of 60-65 degrees and a daytime temperature of about 5-10 degrees higher.
When the young plants have developed their second pair of leaves (the first pair of regular tomato-leaf shape), transplant them to flats, spacing them 2-3 in. apart, or plant them individually in small pots. At this time use a soil consisting of equal parts of loam (topsoil), sand, and leaf mold, humus, or peat moss, with bone meal added at the rate of one pound to each bushel of the mixture. Keep the plants growing under the same conditions as before and, about two weeks before they are to be planted in the garden, gradually harden them and accustom them to outdoor conditions.
Soil and Location
Tomatoes thrive in any reasonably good garden soil that is well-drained. It should be deeply spaded or plowed well before the Tomatoes are planted and, if deficient in humus, it should be enriched by adding com post, leaf mold, peat moss, or commercial humus. Manure should be used, if at all, with caution, because excessive nitrogen tends to make the plants produce an overabundance of foliage at the expense of flowers and fruit. A dressing of a fertilizer that analyzes high in phosphate and potash and low in nitrogen may be beneficial; if the soil is fairly rich the addition of organic matter together with a dressing of superphosphate is likely to prove sufficient.
Tomatoes need full sunshine. The earliest crops are likely to be produced on south-facing slopes or in locations that are shaded by a wall or building. Later crops may be had from the flat or sloping ground without difficulty.
Planting
Plants for setting out should be sturdy and short-jointed (the leaves comparatively close together on the stems). Tall, weak plants with undersized, yellowish leaves, widely spaced on the stems, are not satisfactory. Wait until the weather is warm and settled before planting; nothing is gained if, after the plants are set out, the weather turns cold and the plants assume a blue or purplish coloring and cease to grow.
The space between plants should vary according to methods of training and cultivation and according to the variety (the more vigorous varieties need more room than others).
If the plants are to sprawl on the ground without staking, and mechanical cultivators are to be used to keep down weeds, as is the practice with commercial growers, the rows should be about 6 ft. apart, and 4 ft. should be allowed between the plants in the rows.
Amateur gardeners who raise only a few Tomato plants will find that it pays to support them off the ground rather than to let them grow without trimming. If this is done, the pro portion of clean, undamaged fruit harvested is higher. The plants may be tied to individual stakes or to a trellis. In the former case, a spacing of 2½-3½ ft. between rows and 2-2½ ft. be tween plants in the rows is sufficient; the closer spacings are adopted if the plants are to be pruned to one stem each, more space being given if each plant is to develop 2-3 stems. Rows of trellis may be spaced 4-6 ft. apart and the plants are grown against the trellis about 2½-3 ft. apart. Stakes for Tomatoes should be of good, sound wood at least 2 in. square and long enough to project from the ground 5 or 6 ft. when they are driven insufficiently far to fasten them securely. Trellises are usually made 4 or 5 ft. high.
When planting, the holes should be made large enough to accommodate the roots without crowding and the plants set deeper than they previously were (because Tomato plants root freely from the portions of the stems buried beneath the soil, they may be planted down to the first leaf). After they are planted, each plant should be well watered
Freedom from weeds ‘is important in the cultivation of Tomatoes. The ground in which they are planted either should be mulched or should be kept stirred to a depth of about 1 in. with a hoe or cultivator. Keeping the ground free of weeds with a hoe or cultivator in the early stages of growth and applying a mulch after the plants are well established and at the beginning of really hot, summer weather is the best practice.
Tying and Pruning
Plan ts that are grown on stake s and trellises will need- attention in the matter of tying at regular intervals throughout the summer. Do not tie stems so tightly that they are likely to be strangled by the ties as the stems grow and thicken. Use soft string or strips of old sheeting or other soft material for tying. Pruning, or the removal of unwanted shoots,
is an important task with Tomatoes trained to supports. Shoots that are to be removed should be taken off when they are quite small and, as Tomatoes grow fast during favorable weather, this work should receive attention at least once a week. Once the number of main shoots that are to be allowed to grow has been decided upon, no others should be allowed to develop, and all laterals or side shoots should be pinched out as soon as they are big enough to be taken hold of easily between the finger and thumb.
When the main shoots reach the tops of their supports, which should be when the summer is well advanced, and any further fruit set will not have time to develop and ripen (or even reach while still green a size of use for making chutney or other conserves), pinch out or cut off the tops of the main shoots; this tends to concentrate the energies of the plant in plumping up and ripening the fruits already set on the vines. When the lower fruits begin to ripen some growers cut away a portion of each of the lower leaves to make for better air circulation and to admit more sun to hasten to ripen. This should be done with caution, however, for if too much foliage is removed the fruits will not attain their largest size and the growth of the plants may be checked.
Watering Is Important.
For the best results, Tomato plants should never suffer from a lack of moisture at any time. Excessive dryness is very likely to cause a physiological disturbance called blossom-end rot, which shows as large blackened areas surrounding that end of the ripe fruit which is not attached to the stock. Cracking of the fruits is caused by the availability of ample supplies of moisture following a very dry period. The best way of avoiding this trouble is to make sure that the plants never suffer from dryness.
Harvesting
When the fruits are ripe they should be picked promptly and stored in a cool, dark place; under these conditions, they keep better than if left on the vines. In hot, damp weather the fruits will be firmer if they are picked slightly before they are fully ripe and are then allowed to ripen at room temperature in doors.
At the end of the season, all green fruits should be picked before hard frost. The greenest may be used for making conserves. Those approaching ripeness may be stored in shallow boxes or trays in a cool but frostproof shed, cellar, attic, or garage, where they will ripen gradually and provide usable fruits over a period of many weeks. Fruits ripened in this way lack the flavor and quality of those that are vine ripened, but, even so, are likely to be superior to Tomatoes shipped from long distances and sold in stores at that season. An alternative method is to pull up the entire vines just before a hard frost and suspend them from the ceiling of the storage place; the fruits then ripen on the vines and are, perhaps, of a little better quality than those picked green and ripened in trays or boxes.
Greenhouse Culture
A greenhouse in which a night temperature of 55-60 degrees is maintained, where the day temperature is a few degrees higher, and where there is full sunshine makes it possible to have fresh Tomatoes from November until the fruits from outdoor plants are available the following summer. The Tomato plants may be grown in large pots or in soil beds. Each plant should be restricted to a single stem by pinching out all side shoots when they are quite small. If grown in beds or benches, the plants may be spaced 12-15 in. apart; if the plants are potted, pots measuring 9-10 in. in diameter will be large enough for the final potting. The plants should be neatly tied to stakes or to wires or strings stretched tightly between supports.
For greenhouse culture it is usually wisest to select a variety especially recommended for that
To secure fall and early winter crops the seeds should be sown in July to have plants that will crop in late winter and spring the seeds should be sown in September or October.
In order to ensure a setting of fruit in green houses, it is necessary to pollinate the flowers or to treat them with one of the special hormone sprays which are sold for the purpose of causing Tomatoes to set fruit. Pollination is effected by gently shaking the plants during the middle of each warm, dry day at a time when the air in the greenhouse is fairly dry. An alternative method is to take a soft camel’s-hair brush and gently stroke it across each open flower each warm, bright day.
Varieties
There are a large number of varieties of Tomatoes offered by seedsmen, and new ones are introduced yearly. Some are more suited for one section of North America than others, some are more adaptable for a particular purpose than others. The best commercial varieties are not necessarily the best for the home gardener, who does not have to consider problems connected with shipping and marketing. Certain varieties, indicated in catalogs, are resistant to wilt disease; only these should be attempted if the soil has grown wilt-infected Tomatoes previously.
Tomato varieties are divided into two chief groups, earlies and maincrops. The former are the only kinds suitable for planting outdoors in most of Canada and in the northernmost parts of the United States; these are used also to pro vide early crops elsewhere. Maincrop varieties come into bearing a little later than earlies and continue to produce well until frost.
Among early varieties, the following are recommended: Earliana, Fordhook Hybrid, John Baer, Manalee, Pritchard, Valiant and Victor. Good maincrop varieties include: Burpee Big boy, Burpee Hybrid, Homestead, Kopiah, Man alucie, Marglobe, Queens, Rutgers and Stokes dale. Among yellow-fruited varieties, Jubilee and Sunray are highly rated. Oxheart and Ponderosa are pink-fruited varieties that bear very large fruits. Small-fruited varieties that yield fruits suitable for garnishing as well as eating are Red Cherry, Red Pear, Yellow Pear and Yellow Plum.
If you already know tomatoes, you might want to shred this booklet and use it as mulch.
If you’re new to growing tomatoes, but don’t want to be bothered, we can keep it simple for you: plant deeply in a sunny patch of good soil that is well-watered, and come back in two months.
If you want to invest a little time and effort into getting the most out of your tomato plants, this book should be helpful.
Introducing Your Tomato to its New Home On Arrival
Your tomato may arrive thirsty. If the soil is dried out, put the pot on a plate and gently soak the soil.
If it’s still cold where you live, keep the plant warm, putting it out in the sun for a few hours each day. Don’t plant until the air temperature is consistently above 50° Fahrenheit day and night.
Sun
Tomatoes love sun—put yours in the sunniest place you’ve got (unless you live in Death Valley). Less than six hours of sun per day means a rangy plant with no fruit. No soil in the sunny place? Consider putting your tomato in a container, then you can move it to wherever you want.
Soil and Situation
Use proper potting soil for containers. If your outdoor soil is not rich in nutrients and organic matter, add compost—the best soil improver.
Your tomato is a vine that grows up to ten feet tall but can fit in as little as one to three square feet of ground space. Stake, cage, or twine your tomato around a string, or plant near a chain link fence. See ‘Support’ for tips on tying. Don’t plant in the same spot year after year—hungry tomatoes will deplete the soil, and pests will know where to find a tasty meal. High school chemistry bonus: ideal pH is from 5.8–7. Lower pH with organic materials such as peat moss, pine needles, and oak leaves; raise pH with wood ashes or powdered limestone.
Containers—The Portable Tomato
Find exactly the right spot—and don’t be afraid to change your mind about it later. Containers should hold at least 3 gallons and must drain well. Clean 5-gallon paint cans or buckets are good as long as you punch drainage holes in them. And of course, you should feel free to decorate them as inspiration strikes.
Moving Day—Planting Your Tomato
Dig a large planting hole to loosen the soil around the root ball and ease the way for questing roots. Ideally, the hole should be big enough to bury a basketball. Prepare the soil by filling the hole with water the day before. Let the water soak in— your tomato will dig it. Fill the hole part way with compost. Add a fistful of fertilizer and/or a few eggshells.
Break off all but the top 3 or 4 branches and bury the plant deeply, so the soil covers those former branch sites—they will form roots, giving your tomato an extrasolid foundation. If you live someplace with long, cold winters, where the soil is still chilly even though the nights are not that cold anymore, put the plant on its side so it will be near the surface, and only has a few branches sticking out.
Once the tomato is in the ground, soak the surrounding soil, but try to keep your plant’s leaves dry.
Paper Work and Advanced Planning
Right now, your plants all look the same, but when you are eating the fruit, remembering which variety is which will be very important to you—trust us!
Stick plant labels into the back of this book
Draw a simple map of your garden, noting which varieties went where.
Take notes on choices you make regarding plant care—by this time next year, you’ll be an expert
Read ahead to the “support” section and decide on your strategy. Your plant will grow quickly, so you should install a cage or start tying it within the first three weeks.
Care and Feeding Your Relationship With Your Tomato
Like any other relationship, you’ll get the most out of this one if you a) show up, and b) pay attention. Visit your Tomato regularly. Daily visits are nice, but weekly is fine. When harvest time comes, you may feel compelled to hover—but that’s okay. During visits, check in with the plant. Inspect from bottom to top. It may need a drink, extra support, grooming, or help with pests.
Water
After transplanting, water when the top inch of soil is dry (or cheat—use a moisture meter). Temperature, wind, and the soil type will affect how fast the soil dries out. It’s easy to water too much. We recommend that you don’t think of “regular watering.” Do not try to keep the soil moist. Instead, make it your goal to not let the soil dry out completely.
When you see tiny fruit on your tomato, cut way back on the water (and fertilizer). This change tells your tomato that it is time to focus on producing fruit. Water the ground around the plant—try not to let water splash up onto the leaves. Water splashing up from the soil can spread disease.
Food
Mix a handful of tomato or vegetable fertilizer—preferably organic—into the soil of the hole or container. Add compost for richer soil. Scratch a handful of organic fertilizer or compost into the surface soil once a month. Do not over-feed! The nitrogen in fertilizer (the first number on the label) encourages leaf and stem growth. If you want your plant to focus on producing fruit, cut back on nitrogen.When fall is approaching, cut way back on fertilizer and water. If leaf ends start to turn yellow during early or mid-season, you may need more fertilizer. Phase it in gently and see if you notice an improvement.
Grooming Tomato Plants
All tomatoes are either Bushes(determinate) or Vines (indeterminate). Determinate tomatoes stop growing on their own, and produce all of their fruit at once. Your heirloom tomatoes are vines, or “indeterminate.” This means they will produce fruit all season. If left alone, they will grow into an unruly tangle of stems. If you’re short on space and if you want earlier and larger fruit, then prune!
Types of Growth
Mother Stem: The main vine. Everything else will come off it. It wants to split into many branches, but you won’t let it. Leaf Stems: Growing off at right angles, these little fellows break the vine up into sections. They get leaves and help with photosynthesis. Flower cluster: These grow in the middle of sections, coming directly off the vine. These flowers become fruit—we love them! Suckers: These grow out of the crotches of the right angle leaf stems. They must be removed—pinch them off with your fingers.
Pruning
For a well-behaved vine, prune to a single stem, or a y-shaped vine with a short mother stem and two long main stems. In areas with intense sun, such as the southwest, more leaves are welcome—a single stem can result in sun-scalded fruit.Make sure to pinch off dead leaves.
Pruning is easy—snap out the suckers (or “suckas” in our neighborhood) that grow out of the crotch made by the leaf stem joining the main stem. The best snapping-time is when suckers are 3 to 4 inches long.
For a double stem, or Y-shaped vine, allow a sucker near the lowest flower cluster to grow.
A Happy Vine
You want to train your tomato to grow into a single vine or a “Y” where the two main stems are really long. This means you will be pinching off side growth all season long.
Support
Go vertical—it increases fruit production and decreases the chance of diseases and pests. For the highest yield, plant 18” apart, grow in single or “Y” shaped vines, and tie them straight up. Support your tomato! Cages, trellises, garden net, or stakes are easy to find. Or plant your tomato against a fence, or knot garden twine on a 6-foot frame and suspend stems by twining them around the string. If you are using cages, prune your suckers so you get 3 or 4 main stems (instead of a long “Y”), then start pinching off their growing tips once they start spilling out and blocking the light of the tomato the next cage over. If you’re tying, tie loosely—the stems will expand with time. Use garden twine, cotton twine, nylon twine…some recommend old pantyhose, which have the advantage of stretching to let the stems expand. When you get heavy fruit cluster, tie them so your tie bears weight, otherwise, the weight of your fruit may damage your vine.
Shaking the Tree
If you live in a windless area, you may want to stroke your vines every few visits, plus gently shake or tough flower clusters to encourage the fertilization that results in fruit.
Pests and Problems
Your frequent visits will help you stay in touch with your tomato’s health. Problems are minor when dealt with as soon as they appear. Tomato hornworms eat leaves and fruit, and leave their calling card: black droppings. Pick the hornworms off and smush them— disgusting, but effective!
Try using homemade pest repellent/leaf cleaner, especially if you see little white bugs on the underside of the leaves.
Tomatoes can crack from uneven moisture, or appear “catfaced,” with scars and holes in the blossom end from cold weather or too much nitrogen. Ugly tomatoes taste great—just cut out any bad parts. Blights, late and early, disfigure both leaves and fruit for those east of the Mississippi and on the West Coast. Wilts can kill tomato plants.
Prevention is the best cure:
Moisture control is key to disease control
Watering at ground level instead of overhead
Don’t tie or prune your plants when they are wet
Don’t plant in the same area two years in a row, and dead plants at the end of the season.
If you need to use a pesticide, consider plant extracts, such as chrysanthemums (Pyrethrins); or a naturally occurring pest poison, such as Bacillus Thuringiensis (Bt).
Harvest Time Picking
Twist, don’t pull—or you might take stem with the tomato. Pick tomatoes when they start to soften, have a “tomato” scent, and most of the fruit has achieved its final color. Of course, there are lots of good uses for unripe (or green) tomatoes as well! A premature tomato that comes off the vine will get full color and flavor when left on a sunny windowsill or railing.
Smash Planting
The tomato is a hardy weed designed to fertilize itself. Don’t let rotting or partially pest-eaten tomatoes go to waste. Heave them into any inaccessible or inhospitable area: think of yourself as a modern day “Johnny Tomatoseed”. Hurl them into tall weeds! Smush them next to parking lot barriers! Tuck them near fences where the weed-whip won’t go! Check back next summer—you may find a pleasant surprise!
As the Season Wanes
Get every last bit of tomato goodness! When there’s only a month left of warm weather: cut off all growing vine ends, and all small and undeveloped fruit. Cut back on water and fertilizer so the plant focuses on ripening existing fruit.
What is an Heirloom Tomato?
Heirlooms are tomatoes that have been around a long time. Rediscovered in the recent taste revolution, “heirloom” refers to tomatoes that are not hybrids, and have been in existence at least 50 years— preserved for their superb taste. Heirloom tomatoes often are unusual shapes or colors. Many people have never tasted “real” tomatoes—if you’ve only eaten supermarket or other commercially produced tomatoes, you’re in for a delicious surprise. Supermarket tomatoes, along with the tomatoes served in most restaurants, are hybrids: bred to the specifications of mass production. Shippers demand tomatoes that are red early, hard enough to roll down chutes, and that have the shelf life of your left shoe. Such tomatoes are picked when the first hint of color shows, so they never fully ripen. They may leave a little bit of stem on them and say “vine-ripened,” but they taste like cardboard compared to the tomatoes selected for flavor alone—heirlooms. When you consider that you are “shipping” your tomatoes less than a few hundred feet, you’ll see why they say that “there’s only two things that money can’t buy, and that’s true love, and home-grown tomatoes.”
Fun Ways to Enjoy Heirlooms
Tomatoes are a substitute for anything. Think of them as a vegetable, or fruit, or meat or a spice: experiment! Give them to your friends, and try not to refrigerate.
Growing Tomatoes Organically
No synthetics or chemicals! Fertilizers and pesticides must come from natural sources to be considered organic. Compost is the best soil conditioner and a great fertilizer as well— if you have it, use it! Other organic fertilizers are also easy to find. Many gardeners grow tomatoes with no pest control other than picking off tomato hornworms by hand.
Grandma’s Homemade Pest Repellant
This spray may help against whitefly, aphids, beetles, grasshoppers, slugs, and scale. It also can help deter rabbits and raccoons.
6 cloves garlic
1/2 onion
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper or3-4 very hot peppers or 1 tablespoon of hot pepper liquid, such as Tabasco
1 tablespoon dishwashing liquid (biodegradable is best)
1 quart water
Put the first four ingredients in the blender along with a cup or two of water and blend until smooth. Pour the liquid into a large jar and add the rest of the water. Let it steep for about 24 hours, and then strain out the solids. Pour the liquid into a spray bottle and spray your plants—make sure to get the underside of the leaves, too. The spray keeps in the refrigerator up to two weeks.
To celebrate Arbor Day this Friday, April 28, plant a native tree. Better yet, make it a keystone species, and then surround it with a “soft landing” to provide a welcoming spot for pollinators. Heather Holm, pollinator conservationist and award-winning author, and Leslie Pilgrim, founder of Neighborhood Greening and editor of the Butterfly Effect, developed the soft landing concept to give gardeners an easy and approachable way to help pollinators at home. They need it: More than 40 percent of our insect species are declining globally, according to a 2019 study. “People know things are falling apart and they want to help,” says Pilgrim. “But they don’t know how to start. Planting a soft landing beneath a native tree is a simple garden project with a really big impact.” Not to mention, it’s beautiful. Holm and Pilgrim show us how.
Photography by Heather Holm, unless otherwise noted.
What is a “soft landing”?
Above: The soft landing plants beneath this native maple tree include flowering pink wild geranium (Geranium maculatum), foliage of Zigzag goldenrod (Solidago flexicaulis), Smooth Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum biflorum), and white-flowered Viola canadensis. Photograph by Vicki Bonk.
A soft landing is a diverse mix of herbaceous native plants grown underneath the dripline [see below for more on this] of a native, preferably a keystone, tree. “These plantings provide critical shelter and habitat for one or more life cycle stages of moths, butterflies, and beneficial insects, such as bumble bees, fireflies, lacewings, and beetles. In addition to plants, soft landings also include leaf litter, duff [partially decayed organic matter], and plant debris. They also build healthy soil, provide food for songbirds and pollinators, sequester more carbon than turf grass, and reduce time spent mowing,” states Holm on her site pollinatorsnativeplants.com. “But it’s important to remember that soft landings only work with native plants,” adds Pilgrim. “You can’t do this with a random tree and a random groundcover.”
To create a soft landing, Holm and Pilgrim recommend a mixture of native perennials, sedges, and woodland grasses. “The planting style is up to the homeowner,” says Holm. “But for a tidier look, stick to plants that grow no taller than 24 inches tall, 18 inches is preferable.”
What is a “drip line”?
“A drip line is the extent to where branches come out from a tree. Go to the farthest branch out, and then “draw” a vertical line down from it,” says Holm. “That’s the tree’s drip line.” Adds Pilgrim: “I think of it as the tree’s umbrella.”
Why are keystone plants important?
Above: An American linden (Tilia americana) grows above a sea of understory plants: Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica), white Trillium grandiflorum, bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) foliage, and Jack-in-the pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum).
For the biggest biodiversity bang for your buck, plant a keystone species. “Keystones are native plants that support a significant number of caterpillars (butterfly and moth larvae),” writes Holm. Native oak trees, for instance, are a shining example: More than 940 kinds of caterpillars feast on them. After they’re done feeding, these future butterflies and moths finish their life cycles in the leaf litter and duff beneath the tree. According to the National Wildlife Federation (NWF), entomologist Doug Tallamy and his team at the University of Delaware discovered that 14 percent of our native plants support 90 percent of butterflies and moths. While horticulturalist Jarrod Fowler found that 15 to 60 percent of North American native bee species are pollen specialists who only eat pollen from 40 percent of native plants. To find the keystone plants in your region visit the National Wildlife Federation (NWF) site.
How do I get started?
Above: A white oak in Minnesota is surrounded with early meadowrue (Thalictrum dioicum), pinkish-purple wild geranium (Geranium maculatum), periwinkle-hued Virginia Waterleaf (Hydrophyllum virginianum), two grassy-like carex: (Carex sprengelii and Carex pensylvanica), and the downy yellow violet (Viola pubescens).
Steve, who gardens in Los Angeles, keeps sending in beautiful photos, so I keep sharing them! If you missed his previous posts, you can catch up here: Steve’s Southern California Garden.
He certainly takes full advantage of the beautiful plants that his climate allows him to grow, and they are thriving despite the odd weather the area has had this year.
Succulents are always good choices for container plantings because they won’t mind if you miss a watering. And if you live in a climate that is less than ideal for them, it is easy to move them out of excessive rain or cold that might damage them.
Gorgeous soft yellow Leucospermum (Zones 9–11) flowers tumble down with a backdrop of blue California lilac (Caeonothus, hardiness zone varies by species). The California lilac is native to the west coast of North America, while the leucospermum hails from South Africa. Many South African species do well in California because the climates can be quite similar.
Here are more container plantings, with a Leucospermum showing off in the middle.
Fivespot (Nemophilamaculata, annual) is a California native annual that grows and flowers during the typically wetter winter months before fading away in the drier summer. It is easy to see how it gets its common name, with the dark blue spots on each of the five petals.
Variegated pride of Madeira (Echiumcandicans ‘Star of Madeira’, Zones 9–10) is just starting to come into bloom, but the spires of blue flowers are totally upstaged by that incredible variegated foliage.
A penstemon (Penstemon sp.) flower in the foreground is backed up by a red Callistemon. The Callistemon is native to Australia, while Penstemon is a huge genus with countless species native to western North America.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
When you own a home, regular maintenance is crucial. It ensures that everything runs smoothly and may help avoid costly repairs. Unfortunately, some home maintenance tasks may slip your mind resulting in losses. Here are some tips to keep your home in great shape.
When you own a home, regular maintenance is crucial. It ensures that everything runs smoothly and may help avoid costly repairs. Unfortunately, some home maintenance tasks may slip your mind resulting in losses. Here are some tips to keep your home in great shape.
Check Your Roof and Clean Gutters
A roof protects your home against the elements. You must keep it in good condition. An annual inspection can help you catch any damage or wear and tear. Detecting issues early can help you address them before they become bigger problems. Look for missing or damaged shingles, cracks, or signs of water damage. You should also check for debris or buildup in your gutters. It can indicate a problem with your roof.
Clogged gutters can cause water to back up and damage your roof or home’s foundation. Regularly cleaning your gutters can protect your home. Clean your gutters at least twice a year. Do it more frequently if you live in an area with many trees or your gutters are prone to clogging.
Test Your Smoke Alarms
Smoke alarms can protect your family in case of a fire. However, they’re only effective when working correctly. Test your smoke alarms monthly to ensure they’re functioning correctly. A working smoke alarm can provide early warning of a fire. It gives you time to evacuate the building and call for emergency services if necessary.
Smoke alarms typically rely on batteries for power. Regular testing can help you identify when batteries need to be replaced. This can prevent the alarm from failing during an emergency. Replace the batteries at least once a year or more frequently if needed.
HVAC System
A well-functioning HVAC system is essential for comfort. Change Your HVAC filters regularly. Dirty air filters can reduce the efficiency of your HVAC system. Over time, they can break it down. To keep your system running smoothly, you must change your filters regularly. Plan to replace them every three months or more frequently if you have pets or allergies.
Clean your dryer vent often. Clogged dryer vents can be a fire hazard. Get an HVAC technician to perform regular maintenance. You can also disconnect the dryer from the vent and remove lint or debris. Clean the lint trap after every use to prevent buildup. Keeping your dryer vent clean can reduce the risk of a fire.
Drafty windows and doors can make your HVAC system work harder than needed. They can drive up your energy bills. Check for any gaps around your windows and doors. Seal them with weatherstripping or caulking. They keep your home comfortable year-round while also reducing your energy costs.
Inspect Plumbing Issues
Leaks and other plumbing issues can cause water damage and mold growth if left unchecked. To prevent this from happening, inspect your plumbing regularly. Look out for any signs of leaks or damage. Look for discoloration or warping around your pipes. They may be signs of water damage or mold growth. If you notice anything unusual, call a professional plumber. They will assess the problem and make necessary repairs. Click here for help with your plumbing problems.
Trim Your Trees
Overgrown trees can pose a hazard to your home, especially during storms. To reduce the risk of damage, trim back any branches close to your home. Watch out for anything that could fall onto your roof or power lines. If you’re uncomfortable trimming the trees yourself, hire a professional tree service to do the job safely.
Home maintenance is essential to ensuring longevity, safety, and overall functionality. Regular home maintenance can prevent costly repairs. It can also increase your property value. Use the above home maintenance tips to keep your home in good condition. You can reduce the risk of unexpected damage.
Energy efficiency is an important aspect of modern living. Not only does it reduce the carbon footprint of your home, but it also saves you money on energy bills. At a time when electricity and heating bills are more expensive than ever before, how can you improve your home’s energy efficiency?
One of the most effective ways to improve the energy efficiency of your home is to ensure that it is properly insulated. Insulation prevents heat from escaping during the winter and keeps your home cool during the summer. The most common areas to insulate are the roof, walls, and floors. By installing insulation in these areas, you can save up to 25% on your heating bills. Insulation comes in various forms, including loft insulation, cavity wall insulation, and floor insulation. Getting double-glazed windows is also a necessity if you don’t have them installed already. Boiler efficiency
Your boiler is one of the biggest energy consumers in your home. If it’s an older model, it may not be as efficient as newer models. Upgrading to a modern, high-efficiency electric boiler can save you a significant amount of money on your energy bills. In addition, you should ensure you regularly get your boiler maintained, as a poorly maintained boiler will also have decreased energy efficiency and increase your bills.
Smarten up your home
By switching to a smart meter you can control your heating remotely and have a more accurate idea of exactly how much energy you’re using at all times. You can also time your heating so it switches off automatically at night and turns back on in the morning, or when you return from work. Draught proofing
Draught proofing is a cost-effective way to reduce energy loss in your home. Draughts are a major source of heat loss, so sealing them up can make a big difference in your energy bills. You can draught-proof your home by sealing gaps around doors and windows, using draught excluders, and installing door sweeps. This is a simple and affordable way to improve the energy efficiency of your home.
Switching appliances and bulbs
Replacing old appliances and light bulbs with energy-efficient models is another way to reduce your energy bills. Look for appliances with a high energy efficiency rating and replace incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. LED bulbs use up to 90% less energy than incandescent bulbs, and they last much longer too.
By properly insulating your home, upgrading to a high-efficiency boiler, draught-proofing, and switching to energy-efficient appliances and bulbs, you can significantly reduce your energy consumption. These home improvements are relatively simple and affordable, and they can make a big difference in your energy bills and carbon footprint over time.
Gummosis refers to the oozing of sap or gum from a tree. This behavior is very common on stone fruits, including apricots, peaches, and plums.
You can look at gummosis as your tree’s cry for help in the face of any one of a number of problems.
The most common cause of gummosis is a fungus originally called Cytospora that is now called Leucostoma.
This fungus is opportunistic. That means that it infects easy targets like weakened trees. It requires both a wound and a tree that is stressed.
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Pruning cuts are a major source of entry for this fungus. Sunscald and cold injury – and even deer rubs – can make your tree vulnerable to Cytospora infection.
Prevention is the best way to manage this condition.
Two Leucostoma Species Infect Fruit Trees
Two species of Leucostoma can be on the attack. L. persoonii is more likely to infect apricots, plums, peaches, nectarines and cherriesgrown at a low elevation. This species is more of a problem in warmer climates.
In contrast, L. cincta is more likely to attack apples and cherries in cooler areas, like orchards at high elevations.
Both species of fungus are widespread in the US and throughout British Columbia and Ontario, Canada as well. They have also been known to cause problems in South America, Europe, and Japan.
How to Diagnose Gummosis Due to Leucostoma Canker
Your tree will exhibit symptoms like dieback of the canopy and tree flagging. And it will produce a lot of gum. Think excessive.
The trunk of a cherry tree infected with L. persoonii showing signs of Leucostoma canker and oozing sap.
The gum that Leucostoma fungi produce has a dark amber color. Scrape off the bark and look at the phloem underneath. It will be cinnamon brown.
Typically, the fungus grows during favorable times like the winter and spring. When the tree starts actively growing, it walls off the infection until it loses resistance again in the fall. You can see this pattern in the form of bands of lighter and darker colored tissue.
To distinguish Leucostoma canker from other causes of gummosis, you should look for its fruiting bodies – protrusions from the surface of the woody tissue that look like small black pimples.
These fruiting bodies can produce thousands of spores, and those of L. persoonii can travel up to 260 feet.
How to Prevent Gummosis
Cultural Controls
1. Optimal Fertilization and Care
Since the primary causal agent of apricot, peach, and plum gummosis attacks weakened trees, do your best to keep yours healthy with optimal mulching, watering, and nutrition.
You should consider fertilizing with nitrogen in the late winter or early spring. This will prevent your tree from producing growth that could be damaged by cold in the fall.
2. Prune Precisely and Remove Damaged Tissue
Be very careful when you prune. Make proper cuts and do not prune in wet weather. It is important to not leave stubs or flat cuts and to not make flush cuts.
Remove infected limbs and twigs by carefully pruning back to the healthy wood. You should do this during dry weather in the summer if possible, so the wound will heal as quickly as possible.
Sterilize your tools with Lysol wipes or 10% bleach between cuts.
It may not be possible to prune out all of the damage if the fungus has spread.
3. Protect from Sunscald
Protect the bark of your tree from sunscald during the winter. To do this, you have two choices.
One is to paint the trunk with half white latex paint and half water.
Your other choice is to apply white tree wrap from December to March.
4. Protect Against Rodents and Insects
Treat for rodents and insects, so they won’t create wounds in your tree. Some growers spray insecticides to keep borers from generating holes in the trees.
5. Drain Water from the Base of the Tree
You want to be sure to prevent injury to the crown from the cold. You can do this by draining water away from the tree’s base.
Chemical Controls
If you live in area where this pathogen is widespread, you should treat your tree with chemicals as a preventative measure.
Apply captan, thiophanate-methyl, or lime sulfur (Bordeaux mixture) in 50% latex or kaolin clay to freshly cut pruning wounds. Do not apply copper hydroxide, since this has been shown to be toxic to the trees.
Use a lime-sulfur solution (Bordeaux mixture) mixed with white latex or kaolin clay to project freshly pruned areas from infection.
If your trees are part of an organic program, lime sulfur is safe to use.
Monitor Your Tree Closely
Try and make sure that your tree is not stressed and doesn’t have any wounds on it.
Leucostoma canker is common in backyard trees, so be very careful when you prune them. You may want to apply a chemical treatment after pruning, so the fungus will not be able to enter through pruning wounds.
Keep an eye out for gummosis. If you see it, try and determine if it is due to fungal injury. If so, quickly prune out the damaged tissue before it spreads.
And if you do lose a tree to this fungus, please remove it. The fungus will continue to live on the dead tissue and will keep producing spores to infect other trees.
Have you waged war against gummosis in your garden or home orchard? If so, let us know how it went in the comments.
And for more information on growing fruit trees, check out some of our other guides:
IF you’ve experienced a flood, a wrong move after the water recedes can make a bad situation worse. To minimize flood damage in the garden, take these steps:
1. Identify the survivors
Most plants, with the exception of seedlings and new transplants, can take flooding for up to a week. When standing water lasts longer, however, problems can occur. Standing water keeps air from reaching a plant’s roots, and without oxygen, plants drown. If foliage looks wilted days after the water recedes, the plant will likely die due to root damage. Wait to cut down a tree that looks dead, however. Its canopy may leaf out the following spring, a sign that the tree is recovering.
2. Manage high salt levels
Brackish water poses additional threats. After the floodwater recedes, the salt left behind can suck moisture out of the plant’s roots and keep them from taking up water. To lower your soil’s sodium level, give plants 1 to 2 inches of fresh water per week for roughly two months and apply gypsum, which detaches salt from soil particles. Your local extension center can help you determine how much gypsum to use. Continue to water as often as you can (without causing another flood), and be aware that excess salt in the soil may harm future salt-sensitive plants.
Freshwater floods can also increase the amount of sodium in your soil, although to a lesser degree. After any flood situation, it’s best to lay off fertilizer for a month. This practice allows rain and irrigation to normalize salt levels and gives plants time to recover before directing energy toward developing new growth.
3. Fix soil compaction
Days of standing water will compact the soil. Aerating your turf and garden can help alleviate the situation. Also consider tilling 2 to 3 inches of compost into the soil to loosen the earth and prepare it for planting. Just be sure to let the soil dry out first; digging in too quickly after a flood will harm the soil’s structure.
Jeff Gillman, author of The Truth About Organic Gardening, is an associate professor of horticulture at the University of Minnesota in St. Paul.
MAY is the joyous month of the year, when old and young are working in their gardens. Perennials are now coming into bloom, but the various bulbous flowers are putting forth every effort to distract our attention from their fair sisters. The unwise annuals are growing, preparing for their profusion of bloom, overlooking the fact that other plants are conserving some strength for another year; The wildflowers of the woods are hastening to bloom for fear they will not complete their duties before the leaves of the trees shade them.
The North
Parrot Tulips, with their brilliant red-and-yellow blooms and their peculiar petals, never fail to attract attention.
Dwarf Iris are in full bloom. Remember that you can get them in practically all the colors worn by their taller cousins, the German Iris. The Dwarf Iris are a much-neglected but deserving group of plants.
Dahlias, either from cuttings or tubers, may be planted as soon as all danger of frost is past. All dahlias prefer a fairly loose, well-cultivated soil. Be sure to train them to a single stem.
Peatmoss comes in alkaline as well as acid forms, altho the acid is the most common. It may be well to ascertain which you are getting, especially if you are using it for rhododendrons and other acid-soil plants.
Staking is important for many tall-growing flowers, such as delphinium and Helenium, and for vegetables, such as tomatoes. Order these stakes early and place them before the plants start to break in the wind. Do not tie the stems too tightly to the stakes or they will be injured when they enlarge thru growth.
It is much better to make the initial tie upon the stake and then tie the plant to it. This prevents slipping of the plant, and also allows one to more gracefully arrange the shoots.
Bedding Plants
It is now safe to set out plants purchased from florists, such as verbenas, geraniums, and co-leus, and all other bedding plants.
Evergreens that are balled and bur-lapped can be planted before they start into active growth.
Thinning
Sweet Peas often sprout up too thickly, and better results will follow thinning them so that they are 6 or 8 inches apart in the row. This also applies to most of the annuals which we sowed earlier, most of which will produce splendid symmetrical plants if they are given sufficient space; for example, Sweet Alyssum, zinnias, marigolds, poppies, and phlox should be at least 1 foot apart, altho for most of them 2 feet would cause still better specimen plants. Cosmos should be planted 3 feet apart. A good symmetrical plant is more beautiful than an overcrowded, leggy specimen.
Lawns
In starting to mow the lawn, be sure that it is not cut too short, as it is well to allow the grass to make sufficient growth to manufacture its food.
Roses
Begin spraying roses with a bordeaux-mixture or dust with Massey dust.
Biennials are plants that live two years. The seed is sown one year and the plants bloom the next, after which they die. Now is the time to sow the seeds of such common biennials as Canterbury-bells, foxgloves, and hollyhocks. They will not bloom this year but will make big, strong plants.
House plants will be much better off for the summer if the pots are buried in the ground so the surface of the soil is even with the top of the pot. They should be placed on the north side of the house beneath a tree.
Broadleaf evergreens, such as the rhododendron, mountain-laurel, and Andromeda, should be liberally mulched with peatmoss or leafmold.
The bagworm is becoming more serious each year because of lack of any great effort to control it. Thoro spraying with arsenate of lead as soon as the insect begins feeding will soon effect control. It helps a great deal to hand-pick these bagworms unless the trees are too tall.
Tender waterlilies may be placed in the pools.
Fish should be put in every lily pool as soon as possible to catch the early crop of mosquitoes.
Red spider, which is injurious to many plants, especially to arborvitae, may be controlled.
Most annual flowers may still be sown this month. Even the tenderest annuals can be sown after May 15.
The West Coast
Plant chrysanthemums now to replace beds of annuals which are thru their best bloom.
Seeds
Continue to sow vegetable seeds and annuals in open ground.
Garden and the Lawn
The long dry spell is about due, so keep up watering the garden and lawn. Also keep up cultivating.
Tithonias, sometimes called Mexican-sunflower, grow 5 to 6 feet tall, and the plants bear bright orange-red, daisylike flowers. The seeds are sown this month. They will flower nicely in the summer.
Tropical Plants
Evergreen shrubs may be planted this month, also various tropical plants, such as paperplant (Papyrus), bamboo, elephants-ear, and bird-of-paradise-flower.
Propagate from cuttings the succulents, such as cactus, Aloe, Crassula, Echeveria, Sedum, and Mesembryan-themum.
Bulbs
Take up such bulbs as have ripened their foliage, especially after the clumps are becoming crowded. They may be stored in ordinary paper sacks or in dry buckwheat hulls or peatmoss. Freesias should be kept dry all summer otherwise they should be dug.
Insects
Aphids, thrips, and red spiders are abundant this month. See page 65 for their control.
The South
In the Gulf states May is for many gardeners largely a maintenance month, when, except for cultivation and other care, one can relax a bit.
Move palms, especially large ones, late this month or early next, about the time the rains set in. Fertilize with organic plant food.
Make cuttings of chrysanthemums and root in sand.
Plants of tropical waterlilies are available.
Shrubs
As soon as the shrubs have finished bloom, they may be given a thoro pruning to induce a growth of good strong branches for next year’s bloom.
Annuals
To replace some of the early annuals which have passed, plant Torenias, Vincas, petunias, and various semi-tropical foliage plants.
Oleander is easily grown from cuttings, rooted in sand, or even in water. These cuttings should be made from the mature wood. The Oleander should never be partially cut back, but should have the old canes cut out clear to the ground.
A living wreath is a fun and beautiful way to decorate your home with color and texture. In this video, learn the steps for making your own living wreath.
Materials
Box wreath frame
Small plants or houseplant cuttings
Sheet moss
Bucket or tray
Pliers
U-pins
Potting soil
String
Green floral wire
Scissors
Instructions for a living wreath
Take the plants out of their pots, separate them, and gently remove some of the dirt from their roots.
Fill a large bucket or tray with water.
Place the sheet moss in the tray, and let it soak for around 15 minutes.
Cut and tie a green floral wire hanging loop around the back of the wreath frame.
Squeeze the moss to remove any excess water.
Lay the sheet moss underneath the box wreath form.
Add soil to the frame on top of the sheet moss.
Pack down the soil.
Wrap the sheet moss around the soil and the wreath frame.
Wrap the wire around the moss, spacing the wire about 2 inches apart.
Make a hole in the moss using a scissor or your fingers.
Place plant cuttings in the soil.
Use U-pins to further secure the plants to the wreath.
Continue placing the plants until the wreath is full.
Add different-colored moss to fill out the wreath form.
Once your wreath is complete, give it a good soaking.
Set the wreath on the table for two to three weeks to let the roots grow.
Hang the wreath on a door or a wall so that you and others can admire your work.
There are hundreds of magnolia species, and each one seems better than the last. But sweetbays have something special going for them.
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The silvery underside of the bay-scented leaves is eye-catching as they wave around in the breeze, and the trees grow in an elegant, dense, vase-like shape. This is already a beautiful tree, before we even get to the flowers.
The creamy white blossoms are three inches wide with an appealing lemon scent. They open in late spring after the leaves have formed on the tree.
While they don’t have the super-massive blossoms of other species, and their flowers aren’t as colorful, they’re every bit as marvelous, especially if you have a swampy spot where other things won’t grow.
Here’s what we’re going to chat about to help you get to know these plants:
Her showier cousins, like the southern magnolia, tend to draw all the attention. So it’s about time sweetbay got a moment in the spotlight! Let’s give her some attention.
Cultivation and History
Sweetbay, also called swamp bay, swamp magnolia, swamp laurel, or white laurel, grows natively from the southern tip of Florida ranging as far north as Massachusetts, and as far east as Texas.
In colder regions, like USDA Growing Zones 5 and 6, it’s deciduous and shrub-like with multiple trunks, topping out at eight feet.
In warmer climates, like Zones 8 and 9, it’s evergreen and grows much taller, up to 35 feet tall, with a single trunk.
In the extreme southern part of its range, this species has been known to grow 60 feet tall. And it can reach up to 20 feet wide, depending on the conditions.
The tree has an extremely graceful, slender form with an open crown, which is part of what makes it such an appealing option for the garden, both at home in North America and abroad.
That’s right, this southern favorite is popular in Europe.
In 1678, British naturalist and missionary Reverend John Banister brought a sweetbay back to England. It was the first magnolia to ever reach those shores.
The Bishop of London, Henry Compton, raised it in the gardens of Fulham Palace, where the sweet-scented blossoms were a hit.
Though the original plant died in 2019, the palace re-planted a new sweetbay with the support of a cheering crowd.
Speaking of those lemony, sweet-smelling flowers, they emerge on the tree later in the season than those of many other species, which means they’re able to dodge some of those late-season frosts that can destroy the blossoms.
They’ll emerge sometime between May and June, depending on where they’re growing, and continue to bloom sporadically throughout the summer.
Hybrids bred using this species can have flowers in shades of pink, but the species and its cultivars all have white flowers.
After the flowers fade, reddish-yellow fruits with red seeds develop. The fruit gradually turns brown and dry, at which point the seeds are ripe for harvesting. Birds and squirrels will eat and spread the seeds.
The semi-glossy leaves also have a sweet scent and look like large bay leaves. The underside is silver and the top is medium green.
As an aside, in 1808, the first hybrid magnolia of any kind documented in Western culture was bred, a cross between a sweetbay and an umbrella magnolia (M. tripetala). M. x thompsoniana continues to be a popular garden tree in the eastern US and Europe.
If the southern magnolias (M. grandiflora) is the grande dame of the South, sweetbay is the humble little sister. The trees are smaller overall and the blossoms are smaller as well.
But if you want something a bit hardier, smaller, and tolerant of wet soil, this type can’t be beat. Bigger isn’t always better.
Propagation
Sweetbays can be propagated via all of the standard methods used with magnolias. You can grow them by sowing seed, rooting cuttings, and layering.
Plants started from seed take much longer than cuttings and air layering to start producing flowers, but all work equally well.
Generally speaking, all sweetbays propagated using one of these methods will start blooming within 10 years, and they will reach their mature size in about 20 years.
Install transplants when the tree is dormant but the ground can be worked in the spring or fall. Place trees at least 10 feet away from any other trees or buildings.
If you purchased a tree, dig a hole twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball. Place the plant in the prepared hole with the top of the root ball just slightly above the soil level.
How to Grow
These trees are known as swamp magnolias because they can tolerate wet or swampy ground.
They receive 48 to 64 inches of rain per year in their native range, and that’s about what you want to recreate wherever you plant them.
Water deeply but infrequently and don’t let the soil become too dry between watering.
Magnolias don’t draw water from near the soil surface, so it doesn’t help to stick your finger into the soil to determine the moisture level. But if you have a long moisture meter, that can help.
Otherwise, a rain gauge can be useful to tell you how much water the plant has received via precipitation.
What they can’t tolerate is alkaline soil. The soil must be slightly acidic with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 for these trees to thrive. In soil that’s too alkaline, trees will show signs of chlorosis.
Sweetbays can also tolerate partial shade, with just four hours of sun per day being enough to produce a large floral display.
There’s no need to worry about fertilizing your trees unless your soil is extremely deficient in a certain nutrient. Do a soil test before planting to see what your soil lacks and amend accordingly. You should continue to test and amend your soil every few years.
Don’t use a strong fertilizer because it can burn. Use something mild or slow release, or better yet, some well-rotted manure or compost.
Growing Tips
Plant in in full sun to partial shade.
Make sure the tree receives at least 48 inches of water per year.
Don’t fertilize unless your soil is deficient in something.
Pruning and Maintenance
Magnolias rarely need pruning. But the general rule to remove dead, diseased, or damaged/deformed branches – known as the three Ds – applies.
Any time you see something that looks problematic, remove it as close to the nearest trunk or branch as you can.
These trees add about a foot or two of growth per year and need pruning to control their size.
If you want to do some pruning for shape, feel free. You can also remove branches that are crossing or crowded, but it’s not necessary.
When they’re young, give them a little shaping by pruning back to a leaf bud after flowering has stopped. If you’re growing a multi-trunk type, limit the trunks to five or less. Remove any shoots growing beyond the main trunk or trunks.
Cultivars to Select
There are lots of fun cultivars to watch for, but a lot of the time, you’ll find the species tree.
You can’t go wrong with the species or any one of the excellent options that have been bred and made available for sale.
This cultivar will stay compact at under 20 feet and is evergreen to Zone 6, which is much colder than the species will tolerate while remaining evergreen.
The leaves are darker green than the species as well.
Henry Hicks
‘Henry Hicks’ is more reliably evergreen than the species. It will stay evergreen even in Zone 5.
It’s an early bloomer and grows to 40 feet high.
Moonglow
‘Moonglow’ is a 40-foot tree with a loose canopy that can survive extreme cold, down to at least -28°F.
This cultivar will stay evergreen further north than the species, down to Zone 6.
Northern Belle
With dark green leaves and a petite growth habit, this pretty lady stands out. She grows to just eight feet tall and 10 feet wide, so she’s perfectly happy in a container.
This is no delicate flower, though. She can survive in temperatures as cold as -35°F and stays evergreen down to Zone 4.
Santa Rosa
The leaves on ‘Santa Rosa’ are larger than the species and the largest of any cultivar.
However, since it was bred from a tree growing in Florida, it isn’t as cold tolerant as some others. It’s best in Zones 7 and up.
The tree has a beautiful rounded, spreading growth habit, reaching 25 feet tall and wide.
Managing Pests and Disease
Ready for some really exciting news? Sweetbays are one of those species that are seemingly unbothered by most problems.
No wonder they’re so popular for creating magnolia hybrids. Everyone wants a bit of that sweet, sweet resistance to pests and diseases.
A mature tree is at no risk from browsing, but deer will make a meal out of leaves and young twigs now and then, and young trees could be slightly deformed.
Over time, the shape can be recovered through pruning, but you might want to put a small fence around young trees if you live in an area with lots of deer activity.
Scale might also be a problem, but it’s rare and these pests usually only infest trees that have been damaged or otherwise weakened. Our guide to scale can walk you through everything you should know.
Best Uses
Thanks to their tolerance for swampy, boggy spots, you can use these trees near ponds and streams or in low areas where water tends to collect.
Don’t assume yours needs to be practically drowning to be happy, though. This species is drought tolerant once established.
It grows well with bayberries, yaupon, dogwoods, chokecherry, sumac, snowbell, viburnum, ferns, pitcher plants, and sedges. Use it in a mixed shrub border or as a specimen.
You can also plant it near porches and patios because it won’t become overwhelming in size, and it will provide dappled shade.
Some magnolia species are prone to breakage, but this one is fairly resistant to wind damage.
Do you need an excuse not to mow the lawn? Save time and energy by leaving your lawn mower in the garage for just another month. No Mow May is a great—and darn easy—way to help out our pollinators early on in the season.
You may have heard of leave the leaves in the fall. Have you heard of its spring sister No Mow May? A similarly cute but effective saying, this is a friendly reminder that it’s time to keep the mower stashed away in the shed and let things stay as they are before we jump into the garden.
Yes, you’ll have to let the idea of having a pristine lawn go. Did you know that lawns originated in 17th-century England as a way for the wealthy to show off? Somehow this trend has become the norm in North America at least.
Lawns guzzle up water and nutrients and put in zero effort to encourage biodiversity. But I get that we need to have them as spaces for children and pets to run around or lay out in the sun for a picnic.
No Mow May allows anyone with a lawn to help out our pollinators with zero effort. Yes, it’s that easy. Let me tell you why.
This post will cover…
I reserve a small section of my yard as a lawn for Kiddo and the pup to play in.
What is No Mow May?
No Mow May is when you avoid mowing your lawn until June so that early-season pollinators can have a temporary habitat and food source until more plants grow. Founded by the UK charity Plantlife in 2019, the movement is gaining traction in Canada and the US.
By not mowing, you’re helping any wildlife that comes out early, especially in its beginning life stages. This includes bees, butterflies, beetles, and other pollinators that need access to nectar. Just a section of unmowed lawn can help out a ton.
Besides not mowing lawns, the practice also applies to leaving garden beds alone. In the fall, I encourage you to leave your leaves for overwintering insects and to nourish your garden. It can be tempting to clean it all up in the spring, but wait a little longer until temperatures warm up.
Want more yard options besides grass? You can easily replace lawn with other ground covers like white clover or periwinkle.
Why Should You Participate in No Mow May?
No Mow May started as a way to help out pollinators. They need food sources early on in the season, and it can be difficult to find flowers with nectar for the early risers.
No Mow May is an easy way for people to help out. You are literally encouraged to do nothing! It doesn’t get much easier than that.
You can also increase awareness about helping out pollinators by letting neighbours know why you’re not mowing your lawn or by leaving a sign out for passerbys.
Besides helping out pollinators, it is also better for your garden. As the snow melts, it results in a lot of moisture. When we step or dig this wet soil, we compact it. The more compacted soil is, the less air there is. People don’t realize how essential air is for retaining water later on and providing aeration for healthy roots. Instead, you should wait until it all melts and has adequately dried.
Leaf litter will help to feed the soil as it breaks down. By allowing these cover crops, like clover, to grow, we’re helping to nourish the soil.
Plus, plants like dandelions are great for mining nutrients up to the top layer of soil.
Letting your lawn grow for a bit will also make it more drought-tolerant, saving you money down the line trying to maintain a green lawn in the hot summer heat.
Let leaf litter stay in the garden beds in the spring rather than trying to clean it up.
How No Mow May Helps Pollinators
Whenever I spot my first bee of the season, I get a little bought of joy. Usually, they’re slowly bumbling along the ground in search of flowers. I think of them as drowsy from a long nap in search of a snack.
When you leave a lawn unmowed, you’re allowing the chance for flowers to bloom as an early food source for pollinators. Clover, dandelion, and violets are some of the most common flowers to pop up, but there can be many.
Red clover and dock.
A UK study found that flowering plants in May have enough nectar to support 10x the pollinators. Another US study found that lawns mowed every two weeks had a higher amount and diversity of bees.
Most bees aren’t able to store food, meaning they need a constant nectar supply from early spring to late fall. With bee populations declining across the globe, we need to help them out as much as we can by ensuring they have these food sources.
From ladybugs to bees, many insects overwinter in leaf litter and hollow plant stems. Since they’re not all waking up at the same time, you want to leave the leaf litter alone in your garden beds. I actually never touch mine, allowing it to disintegrate and feed the soil. Plus, any “messy” appearance disappears as the plants grow.
What Are the Downsides to No Mow May?
Like all practices, no mow may isn’t perfect. The reality is that you need to do more than just stop mowing. May also might not be the best month to pause mowing, depending on where you live.
We also can’t ignore that most people just don’t like having messy lawns. You might get annoyed neighbours knocking on your door or even a fine for breaking a bylaw in your area. Even just leaving one section unmowed or mowing every two weeks can make a difference.
Grass also grows quickly. If you don’t mow for a month, getting your lawn back in shape might be difficult.
Dandelions are one of the most common flowers to bloom in a lawn. Despite how they’re advertised, dandelions are simply an okay food source for bees. But they’re better than nothing. Ask yourself if you have other pollinator food sources in your garden.
The idea is that you need to help provide food sources for your pollinators when things begin to warm up. Period. If you already have early-blooming plants like cherry blossoms or heather, you might not need to pause mowing.
This bee is enjoying borage, a must-have for the bee-friendly garden.
How to Help Out Your Pollinators Year Round
No mow may is just the tip of the iceberg for what we can do for our pollinators. Here are some other great ideas and guidelines to follow.
Leave the leaves! Pollinators need some spaces to shelter in during the cold season.
Reduce your lawn size. Replace with flowering ornamentals and native plant species.
Plant flowers so you have something blooming from early spring to late fall.
Try to have a few different flowers blooming at the same time with different colours and sizes.
Back in August or so we put down some landscape fabric to create a small plant nursery area for our potted plants.
Now we’ve moved all those plants to a new area, in preparation for creating a real nursery.
That left a beautiful dead patch of ground we could plant. I wanted to restart our corn landrace project, so I used a shovel to dig three 5″ deep trenches in the weed-free area.
I also made two more rows via digging a little 10″ deep hole every three feet. This is the “corn in stations” approach.
The layout looks like this:
We’ll see which pattern does better, the stations or the rows.
After digging, we crumbled up some half-dry cow manure and put handfuls in the bottom of the trenches and in the pits, then covered that with a little soil and sprinkled the seeds down the trenches, then placed 4-6 seeds in each of the stations.
All got covered with soft soil about 1.5″ deep, then we soaked the entire area with the hose.
That area was all grass before and the landscape fabric did a great job of killing it. The ground is now full of humus. Instead of tilling the entire area and perhaps turning up a bunch of dormant weed seeds, we just did the trenches and pits instead.
Planting corn in stations was something learned to do in the West Indies, though there the stations also included pigeon peas.
The second part of this experiment is that we didn’t till. All we did was dig small holes and trenches and toss in a little manure. All the area between the rows and stations is untilled.
We would also like to mulch the area with hay once the corn comes up; however, we have an issue with some escaping chickens that must be dealt with first. They destroy mulch.
My three-year-old told me I should “Whack ’em on the heads and throw ’em to the pigs.”
Grooming Tomato Plants
