Category: Home & Garden

Cole writes:

Hey David!

I was checking out your YouTube channel and blog while studying yams as a potential perennial food source in my permaculture food forest. I’m primarily interested in the lesser yam because of its thin skin, easy harvesting size, and it seems like the best potato alternative out there.

I was wondering:

• How do the lesser grow in zone 8b (I think that’s your zone). I’m also in 8b in Oregon and have read mixed things. Does it need a special microclimate or especially heavy mulch?
• Do you know where to get some starts/bubils? I ordered some on eBay but it was the only spot I could find them. I’m looking for a backup in case they end up being bogus. I’d also be interested in purchasing some from you if you sell them 😊
• Do you find the lesser yam to have the same sliminess as the greater yam varieties?
• How would you say they compare to Sunchokes, if you’ve eaten those?

Thanks for taking the time to document these amazing tubers!

Thanks,

Cole

Thanks for writing, Cole.

The “lesser yam,” AKA Dioscorea esculenta, is rare in the states. Josh Jamison at Cody Cove Farm mentioned having grown some at H.E.A.R.T., but they were unfortunately bitter.

We had them in the West Indies and they were not bitter. They were easy to grow, though prickly, and would make pleasant clusters of tubers.

There, they were called “Fancy Yam.” Here’s my friend Mike showing some he grew:

We later planted those roots and grew our own.

Now, let’s get to Cole’s questions.

1. I don’t know how they’ll do in zone 8b, or in any zone outside of the tropics. We grew them in the West Indies, but have not been able to find them again here, and importing them is not easy to do (legally). Unfortunately, I have no data.
2. Ditto. No idea where to get them here, and I don’t have any.
3. None of the yams I’ve tried have been slimy once cooked. The lesser yam would simply melt away if overcooked, falling into starch in the pot. You had to cook them very fast or there would be nothing to eat. Steaming was recommended by locals. And they were not slimy.
4. They are better than sunchokes. Sunchokes taste rather like sweet, crispy, bland carrots. And then they destroy your digestion. They’re just not a good human food – they’re much better for pigs. Feed the pigs the sunchokes, then eat the pigs. Lesser yams, on the other hand, are soft and delicate, with a pleasant sweetness, and digest quite well. Much better for us to eat.

If anyone does come up with a source for D. esculenta in the states, please let us know. We’d be happy to try growing it here in Lower Alabama. The vines are much shorter and easier to trellis than D. alata. Grenadians trellised them on sticks hammered into the ground, and you would see little patches of them here and there in the mountains. At the time of our stay, they were becoming rare, however. Many farmers preferred the Lisbon yam as a crop, perhaps because of its size and its tougher skin, which made it much better for market sales.

It should be tested here!

Finally, here is a post I wrote with more info on Grenadian yam varieties. 

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It’s important to understand that if your dog is leaving craters all over your yard, it’s unlikely that they are doing it out of spite or a desire to damage your landscaping; rather, they are probably doing it because they are looking for fun, attention, comfort, escape, prey, or protection.

Entertainment

Dogs dig for a variety of reasons, therefore it’s important to attempt and pinpoint the actual cause in order to determine the most effective way to stop a dog from digging. Spending time with your pet and getting to know them well will be quite beneficial when attempting to break negative habits.

When dogs discover that soil and roots “play back,” they may dig as a form of amusement. Your dog might be digging to amuse himself if:

• They spend a lot of time alone in the yard without the company of their human family.
• Their surroundings are fairly barren and devoid of toys and playmates.
• They lack other ways to release their energy because they are young animals or adolescents.
• They are an earth-digging breed of terrier or another dog.
• They are an energetic breed that requires job to be happy.
• They’ve recently seen you in the yard or gardening.

By using these tips to constructively discourage your dog’s digging tendency, you can safeguard your landscaping from their inquisitiveness.

Cover The Freshly Tilled Soil

The last thing you want is to discover the work of passion torn to shreds after spending countless hours tilling, mulching, and sowing your garden. Cover the ground surrounding the plants in your garden with bark chips, gravel, or pavers to alter the texture of the soil and make digging through it less enticing.

Create A Doggy Play Area

Set up an appropriate digging area to divert your dog’s behavior to a more suitable area of the yard so that your plants and the garden are safe. In the yard, make a sizable, shallow pit, and fill it with sand. By hiding your dog’s favorite chews and toys in the digging area for them to find, you can make it more appealing to them.

Fence Off The Garden

Dogs enjoy digging over recently tilled soil. Use garden fencing to enclose a spot where your dog frequently digs. A small barricade may be sufficient to deter your dogs. A wire mesh fence secured to steel poles and buried up to a foot underground would be a straightforward option.

Sprinkle Spices

To keep dogs away from the flowerbeds, sprinkle red pepper flakes or mustard powder around them. While your plants’ growth won’t be hampered by this, your pet’s desire to dig up that area will be reduced.

Spray Unpleasant Odors

Spray plants with bitter apple bitter or white vinegar to keep dogs from eating your vegetable garden. As an alternative, you can use marigolds to screen your garden from dogs as well as other pests like aphids, squash bugs, and Mexican bean beetles.

As spring approaches, now is the ideal time to try out these simple strategies to stop your dog from digging so that your entire family may enjoy the backyard together.

Should You Scold A Dog For Digging?

Any form of digging your dog engages in may be addressed, and it’s always a good idea to ask your veterinarian or a professional behaviorist for assistance so you can better understand your dog’s behavior.

Most importantly, you must refrain from reprimanding or punishing a dog for digging and instead focus on rewarding good behavior. Your dog might not comprehend why he’s being punished because digging frequently takes place hours before you discover the resulting proof.

After the fact scolding and disciplining a dog is unlikely to stop the behavior and will instead frighten or upset your dog. Instead, make adjustments to your dog’s environment and try to understand what is motivating them to dig. This will stop them from doing all of that pointless digging.

How To Stop A Dog Digging

Here are a few strategies that can help entirely stop your dog’s digging behavior if you decide it’s time to take action:

1. Remove Sources Of Stress

It’s important to try to identify the source of your dog’s fears if they are causing them to dig because they are stressed or feel threatened. This can occasionally be an unavoidable event like moving house because animals frequently experience stress when their surroundings abruptly changes.

Spending lots of time with your pet and creating a “safe” space in the new home can both help to smooth the transition in this situation. It will be easier on them if their sleeping area is recreated in a spot that is as comparable as feasible.

In order to stop a dog from digging, start by observing any alterations to their environment or routine.

2. Exercise

Make sure that your dog gets the recommended amount of daily exercise for their breed. Different dog breeds require varying degrees of daily activity, so a little dog doesn’t necessarily need less exercise!

Every day, your dog needs to spend at least 30 minutes outdoors. Increasing their amount of exercise may enable them to expend the additional energy required to dig holes in your garden.

3. Mental Stimulation

Dogs require just as much mental stimulation as they do physical activity, so if your dog is left feeling bored all day, it may be the cause of their digging.

The best way to prevent a dog from digging due to a lack of mental stimulation is to spend more time with your pet doing activities you both find enjoyable. walking, playing fetch, and other dog games. Adding more dog toys to your pet’s area will help give them the necessary stimulation they need when left alone. Obstacle courses and dog food toys are two more entertaining ways to increase their everyday stimulation. Find out what to play with your dog that will stimulate their minds.

4. The Pest Problem

It is easy to stop a dog from digging up your yard or house while it is looking for pests: Eliminate the pest issue!

Find humane methods of capturing the pests that are an issue for you, or engage professionals to do it. Always use caution when applying pesticides of any kind to a pest issue because they might be harmful to your dog.

5. Provide Shelter And Shade

Despite coming from the wild, dogs are accustomed to modern luxuries now. If you want to leave your dog outside for an extended amount of time, make sure they have access to cover during the winter and shade during the summer. Additionally, make sure they always have access to fresh water by finding a “untippable” dog bowl.

6. How To Stop A Dog From Digging Under A Fence

The desire to run away is one of the most typical dog digging offenses. You can discourage your pet from digging around the fence by making it more difficult for them to do so. Try half-burying rocks along the fence’s edge.

If your dog still digs as a habit, you might need to set up a “digging zone” where they can indulge this urge. Praise your dog for digging in a specific area of your garden where you don’t mind it being disturbed.

FAQs

Is My Dog’S Digging Bad?

Digging does not necessarily indicate a terrible dog. More so, it’s a poor habit. The majority of people prefer to have a yard that doesn’t resemble a battleground. If this describes you, your dog’s digging is acceptable. Simply put, it’s undesirable.

Does Vinegar Stop Dogs From Digging?

Some dog breeds dislike the smell of vinegar and will stay away from places where it is overpowering. Spray a 1:1 solution of vinegar and water in your dog’s favorite digging areas. You should be aware that not all dogs will respond well to this method of preventing digging.

Do Dogs Grow Out Of Digging?

Most puppies enjoy digging. However, provided your dog isn’t a digger breed like those mentioned above, it should become less inclined to dig with the right training. If your dog digs anyhow, there are ways to reduce and even stop it.

Can I Hire A Professional Dog Trainer To Help Stop My Dog From Digging Up The Garden?

Yes, if you are having trouble getting your dog to stop digging up the garden, hiring a professional dog trainer may be a good alternative. To address your dog’s particular behavior, a trainer can offer tailored guidance and training methods.

How Can I Provide My Dog With An Alternative Place To Dig?

By making a pit filled with sand or soft soil, you can give your dog a different spot to dig. By burying toys or treats and praising your dog for digging in the designated area, you can encourage your dog to do so.

Is It Possible To Completely Stop A Dog From Digging Up A Garden?

While it might be difficult to totally stop a dog from digging up your garden, you can lessen or eliminate the habit with constant training, a different area for them to dig, and the use of deterrents or obstacles.

Can I Plant Certain Types Of Plants That Will Deter My Dog From Digging Up The Garden?

Yes, some plants, such as those with potent fragrances like lavender, rue, or marigolds, or those with spiky foliage like holly or roses, may discourage dogs from digging up the garden.

How Long Does It Typically Take To Train A Dog Not To Dig Up The Garden?

Depending on the dog and the training techniques employed, it can take a different amount of time to train a dog not to dig up the garden. To see noticeable behavioral improvements, consistent training may be required for a few weeks or even several months.

Is There A Particular Breed Of Dog That Has A Higher Propensity To Destroy Gardens?

Breeds with a reputation for digging, including terriers, dachshunds, and beagles, may be more likely to disturb gardens. But any dog can get into the habit of digging.

Can I Use A Deterrent To Stop My Dog From Digging Up My Garden?

Yes, you can use a variety of deterrents to prevent your dog from digging up your garden, including natural ones like vinegar or citrus, as well as manufactured ones like bitter apple spray and physical ones like pebbles or chicken wire.

Is It Normal For Dogs To Dig Up Gardens?

Yes, digging up gardens is an activity that dogs naturally engage in. However, it might become an issue if it harms the garden or puts the dog or other animals in risk.

Pesticides and other chemicals have been used to treat pressure treated wood in order to stop fungi, insects, and rot from damaging the wood. The wood’s compounds may erode into the soil and then be absorbed by plants. More toxins are absorbed by root crops like potatoes and carrots than by leafy vegetables. For raised vegetable beds, pressure-treated lumber is not suggested.

What Is Treated Lumber?

Wood that has been thoroughly treated with chemical preservatives is known as treated timber. As opposed to untreated wood, these preservatives aid in extending the wood’s intended usage.

Lumber is shielded from fungi, termites, aquatic organisms, and structural breakdown by a number of preservatives.

Never utilize creosote-treated railroad ties. This wood has a dark color and a petroleum scent. Extremely harmful chemicals were utilized to cure this wood.

It might be difficult to detect if recycled wood has had preservative treatment. The color and smell of pressure-treated lumber are identical to that of untreated wood. It is advisable to utilize repurposed wood for flower-growing pots rather than vegetable ones.

Cedar is the most secure type of wood to use for vegetable container gardening. It costs a lot yet is durable and long-lasting. Other untreated hardwoods can be used to construct raised beds safely, but depending on the wood, your project will rot and warp in a few years.

Durable lumber that resembles wood is known as plastic lumber. Manufacturers employ different polymers and composites to create their products. They might or might not be safe for food.

Additional Protection For Your Plants

Planting the edible crops closer to the raised bed’s center will reduce the possibility that chemicals from the lumber will be absorbed by other plants grown in the same raised bed. The raised bed could also be lined with plastic.

Before adding soil, a strong plastic liner can be placed inside the wood frame to ensure that no toxins from the wood can leach into the soil and be absorbed by the plants.

Your plants will be protected from harsh temperatures by it as well. A nonporous plastic liner will prevent water from adequately draining out of the soil, so opt for sheet plastic or pond lining instead.

For raised beds, there are materials other than pressure-treated lumber available if you’re still concerned about the security of your plants. According to Lowe’s, untreated lumber is plant-friendly yet prone to damage from insects, fungi, and rot.

Some woods, including cedar, redwood, and some varieties of oak, are naturally resistant to rot, but they can be more expensive to purchase.

Bricks and concrete blocks are additional options, as are synthetic or composite lumber, however there hasn’t been much research on how safe these building materials are for food plants.

Do Plants Absorb The Preservative In Elevated Garden Frames Made Of Pressure-Treated Wood?

Although testing have demonstrated that the quantity of preservative leached from the more recent PT wood products is so small that it is essentially unnoticeable, it is true that plants can absorb these preservatives.

The new preservatives’ impact on lower plant life, like algae, is the main hazardous issue expressed thus far. However, most homeowners wouldn’t be affected unless they lived close to a lake.

How Safe Is Pressure Treated Lumber?

If certain aspects are taken into account, pressure-treated wood is quite safe. These consist of;

To stop the chemicals from leaking into the soil, plant the crops away from pressure-treated wood walls.

putting on a sealer to guard against CCA exposure. Oil can be used to seal things. This shields people from stains and provides protection.

Is It Safe For Growing Food?

Despite being secure, pressure-treated wood is not advised for use in gardens intended to raise food. If an impermeable liner is positioned between the wood and the soil, it can still be used.

To lessen the exposure of food crops to pressure-treated wood, the following actions are taken. Planting should be done with the crops away from the garden bed walls. By doing this, the preservative won’t seep into the soil.

The garden beds should be lined with plastic sheeting. Between the plant roots and the pressure-treated wood, they build an impermeable barrier.

Before eating, peel root vegetables for further security. This is so because plant parts other than the roots contain more copper. Copper traces are removed through peeling.

Exposure To Cca Can Be Prevented By Using A Sealer

In older decks with CCA and in newer decks with preservatives, studies have shown that the use of a penetrating oil finish can limit or even eliminate exposure.

Therefore, it is advised that an oil finish be applied as necessary to any pressure-treated surfaces that come into touch with people. Studies have shown that exterior paints and stains that are not completely absorbed into the wood do not provide the same level of protection.

At least every few years, or when water no longer beads on the wood surface, they should be recoated.

For garden frames and rough constructions, some manufacturers are adding a water repellent to the preservative, which would make the need for a sealer less critical or unnecessary. 

However, for decks exposed to abrasion and sunlight, routine sealing is still a good idea to preserve the surface.

What Is CCA – Treated Wood?

This wood preservative contains varying levels of chromium, copper, and arsenic. Timber is impregnated with CCA treated wood to shield it from microbiological and insect attacks. The treated wood acquires a greenish tinge as a result.

Conclusion

Chromium, copper, and arsenic-containing preservatives are used in CCA pressure-treated woods. They provide protection against microbiological assaults, termites, and even structural concerns.

Vegetable gardens can use pressure-treated wood as long as safety procedures are taken.

From South Carolina to Florida and throughout the Gulf Coast up to Texas, centipede grass is among the most often used warm-season grasses for lawns at private residences. The grass derives its name from the way the stolons sprout short, establish stems that resemble centipedes.

The grass is known as “the lazy man’s grass” since it requires little upkeep despite growing slowly—it takes around two years to establish a firm lawn. Compared to other warm-season turfgrasses, the hue is paler. Because it cannot sustain heavy foot traffic, centipede grass is not the ideal option for backyards with lots of activity.

Centipede Grass Basics

Although centipede grass originated in China and Southeast Asia, it has been present in the United States since 1916, when seeds were first introduced. What is referred to be a warm-season grass is 1 centipede. Accordingly, its most fruitful growing period is in the warm months of late spring through summer. Compared to many other warm-season grasses, centipede grass is more sensitive to cold. However, this perennial may weather winters year after year when grown in warm areas.

The needs of the soil and climate are what primarily limit the usage of centipede as a lawn grass. Warm winters suit Centipede’s requirements in the sandy, acidic soils of the Southeast, from the Carolinas through the Southern Coastal Plains to the Texas Gulf Coast. Winters up north are too cold for it to survive. Similar to this, the American Southwest’s soils are too acidic for Centipede grass to thrive properly.

Despite the centipede’s exceptional heat tolerance, it cannot withstand drought. That is also another reason why Centipede thrives in the Southeast and its considerable annual rainfall. Centipede has a shallower root system than most other warm-season grasses. That means maintaining higher levels of attention and irrigation during dry spells. However, as normal conditions are restored, Centipede quickly bounces back from stress.

Centipede Characteristics To Consider

Unlike warm-season Zoysia and Bermudagrass, centipede grass does not truly go dormant throughout the winter.1 Centipede may stay green all winter in regions with very mild winters. However, because it doesn’t hibernate, the winter cold can harm it. Centipedes can suffer harm when the temperature drops, and recurring injuries during the winter can be fatal.

Contrary to Bermudagrass, Centipede rarely needs dethatching. Sandy soils often don’t require aeration of the lawn either. Unlike many warm-season lawns, centipede grass does not tolerate being overseeded for winter color. Competition from other plants may undermine Centipede’s root structure and result in the failure of the grass.

Among common warm-season lawn grasses, centipede has the slowest rate of growth. Stolons, which are creeping above-ground stems, are used to propagate it. Centipede gradually grows into a thick lawn, but it recovers slowly from heavy traffic and does not withstand it well. It is less salt tolerant than Bermudagrass but more shade tolerant.

Centipede seed performance depends on the right kind of soil preparation and planting circumstances. A natural mulch component is part of Pennington Centipede Grass Seed and Mulch, which enhances spreadability and promotes germination by holding onto moisture. These advantages are combined with TifBlair, a Centipede variety with greater cold tolerance, in Pennington TifBlair Centipede Grass Seed and Mulch.

Centipede Grass Care

As centipede grass grows slowly, it’s important to keep weeds in check. Centipede grass is susceptible to some herbicides, so before using one, make sure it may be used on it by carefully reading the label.

It is advised to start with a mowing height of two inches for established centipede grass in the spring and progressively lower the mowing height in small increments each time you mow to a final mowing height of 1.5 to 1 inch. Check the lawn after lowering the mowing height. Reset it to the original height if it appears bare or scalped.

Increase the mowing height by 1/4 to 1/2 inch to protect the grass during the hot summer and as the weather turns cooler in the fall.

When the thatch is more than 14 inch thick, dethatch your centipede lawn.

For light centipede grass to grow into a robust lawn, it needs complete sunlight. In the shade, it does not thrive.

Ideal soil is sandy, somewhat acidic soil. Before you plant centipede grass, measure the pH of your soil and add acid if necessary because the grass does not thrive in high pH environments.

Although centipede grass doesn’t require very fertile soil, it does require at least six inches of topsoil to promote turf growth.

Saline soils are not suitable for centipede grass.

The arid soils in that region of the country tend to be more alkaline and deficient in iron, both of which are unsuitable conditions for centipede grass, which is why it is not grown there.

Water

Centipede grass thrives in climates with less than 40 inches of annual precipitation, but during periods of drought, it can display symptoms of moisture stress, such as withering and discolouration. It needs to be watered to a depth of four to six inches when irrigation is used. Light, superficial irrigation will simply promote unwelcome shallow root development. You will need to water more regularly if your soil is sandy.

Temperature And Humidity

The right climate is necessary for centipede grass. It cannot tolerate the cold.

The grass will typically turn brown when the temperatures decrease in the fall. It returns to green whenever the weather warms up in the spring or after a prolonged warm spell in the winter. Hard freezes, though, particularly if they happen frequently, can cause damage, which shows up as dead turf patches in the spring.

Fertilizer

When compared to most other turfgrasses, centipede grass requires less fertilizer. Giving it more fertilizer than it requires can have a negative impact by making the turf more vulnerable to cold damage. When the grass is dark green instead of its normal medium to light green tint, that is one indication that overfertilization has taken place.

In most cases, one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year is adequate. This total should ideally be split evenly across two to three fertilizations, with the first one taking place in the spring and the second and third in the summer.

Growing Centipede Grass from Seed Centipede grass can be planted as sod, plugs, or sprigs or grown from seed.

Centipede grass should be sown in May or June since the later you sow it, the more watering it will require throughout the summer and the more prone it will be to cold harm. This is due to the fact that when the temperatures drop in the fall, the grass is not yet well-established.

Per 1,000 square feet, sow 1/4 to 1/3 of a pound of seeds. Roll the soil with a lawn roller if at all possible. Follow the guidelines for sowing a grass from seed, giving it only a moderate watering and maintaining moisture. After sowing, germination takes place 14 to 28 days later.

Overwintering

There are a few things you should do to keep your centipede grass even if wintertime maintenance is low. If there hasn’t been any rain for a few weeks, make sure to water your lawn to prevent it from drying out. Before the first frost, treat any weeds, fertilize, and cut the grass to a height of 2 inches. Throughout the winter, keep the height at 2 inches.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Large patch, commonly known as brown patch, is the most typical problem. It is a fungal disease that develops gradually but can kill up to 20 feet of grass at a time. Too much nitrogen fertilizer, too much water, cool weather in the fall, winter, or spring, soil temperatures between 40 and 70 degrees F, a thatch layer of more than 12 inch, and inadequate drainage are just a few of the causes. Large patches can be treated with specialized fungicides, but it’s important to apply them in the fall when it’s below 70 degrees F.

Centipede grass decline can impact established older turf. Patches of grass that don’t grow green in the spring and finally die are its symptoms. A soil pH above 6.0, an excess of nitrogen fertilizer, a lack of dethatching, and drought stress are the causes of the disease.

Both of these diseases can be prevented and managed with proper grass maintenance.

How To Make Centipede Grass Spread

Stolons, which are above-ground runners or stems that produce new blades and roots, are how centipede grass spreads. You can gather the cut stolons as you edge your grass. Put some soil over them and place them where you’d like additional grass to grow. Let the blades protrude so they can take in the sunlight. Your lawn will thicken and spread as a result of the stolons’ sprouting.

Using the plug technique described above is another approach to spread centipede grass. You can remove plugs from your lawn’s healthy portions and place them in the sparse spots. Just make sure to adhere to the rest of the irrigation and tilling instructions.

To make your lawn thicker, you can overseed it. Since seeds only germinate in mild temperatures, avoid overseeding in the winter.

Centipede Grass Pests And Diseases

Although a centipede grass lawn requires less upkeep, there are a few things to be aware of:

Brown patch: The Rhizoctonia solani fungus spreads brown and sparse patches of grass across the lawn. When it’s hot and rainy, the effect is stronger. Brown patch can be effectively treated by reducing shade and using fertilizer that is high in nitrogen.
Dollar spot: Sclerotinia homeocarpa is a fungus that forms tiny, brown patches that resemble sand dollars. You can use neem oil, a natural fungicide, to eradicate the dollar spot.
Fairy rings: A variety of fungi can produce little, dark-brown crescents that eventually expand to enormous sizes.
Nematodes: The color of the lawn changes from green to yellow as a result of these microscopic pests feeding on the centipede grass root systems. Wormwood is a plant that naturally eradicates nematodes. To help get rid of nematodes naturally, tear up some wormwood leaves, till the soil, add the leaves, and water.

Mole crickets, grubs, spittlebugs, ground pearls, and chinch bugs are some other pests. The trickiest of these to treat are ground pearls. If you discover ground pearls under your centipede grass, you might need to transfer to a tougher variety of grass or even switch to shrubs and trees.

Centipede Grass Decline

Brown spots that appear in the early spring are referred to be centipede grass decline. It’s a widespread issue, and the patches frequently develop as a result of overfertilization. It is essential that you avoid overfertilizing centipede grass.

The plant sends out additional stolons above the earth in response to excessive fertilizing. Your lawn depends on strong stolons, yet they are extremely delicate. Your grass will experience temperature changes in the fall and winter if there are too many exposed stolons.

Planting Centipede Grass Plugs

Centipede grass plugs can be laid down if you don’t want to use seed or sod. To begin, till the yard area where you intend to put the grass plugs and apply an additional layer of fertilizer. Get rid of any past grass growth there. The centipede grass plugs should then be installed using a sod plug drill bit. From each position, place the plugs about 1 foot apart.

Water the grass plugs thoroughly for 3–4 weeks, or until they are about 2 inches tall, as with the other installation techniques.

How Long Does It Take Centipede Grass To Grow?

If you plant centipede grass in your yard, don’t worry if it doesn’t germinate and begin to grow right away. Centipede grass grows slowly and can take two to four weeks to adequately germinate. You must provide it with enough water throughout this time for it to grow healthily.

Centipede grass growth is highly dependent on the condition of the soil. Along with appropriate fertilizer and watering, you should attempt to keep your pH at an ideal 5.5. A soil testing kit that you can purchase from a nearby hardware store will allow you to check the acidity levels of your soil.

How Should I Mow Centipede Grass?

Centipede grass should only be mowed occasionally, at most every one to 1.5 inches. The thatch layer could get excessively thick if it is left on for too long. Maintaining sharp mower blades will reduce the likelihood of pulling grass out of the ground. Additionally, you should avoid walking on your centipede grass right after seeding and mowing.

How Can You Make Centipede Grass Thicker?

Centipede grass can be thickened with proper care, but there are other ways to ensure your lawn looks fantastic as well. Making walkways or stepping stones on your lawn to reduce damage from foot traffic is one of the best methods to encourage your centipede grass to grow taller. If there are no trees on your lawn, centipede grass will also appear thicker and healthier since they deprive the grass of nutrients and water.

Planting Centipede Grass Bottom Line

A wonderful, low-maintenance, drought-tolerant grass that grows well in warm regions is centipede grass. When creating a lawn in a region with hot summers and mild winters, centipede grass is a fantastic option. However, it might not function as effectively in places with chilly winters, a lot of people walking around, or a lot of shade.

Look no further than Sky Pencil Holly if you’re searching for a plant to add height and texture to your yard. This erect, slender evergreen shrub can be utilized to make a dramatic focal point in any landscape and is ideal for small spaces. To make a unified and eye-catching arrangement, it’s crucial to pick the appropriate plants to go with Sky Pencil Holly. We’ll look at some of the ideal plants to grow alongside Sky Pencil Holly in this article.

Understanding Sky Pencil Holly

Let’s take a closer look at Sky Pencil Holly before moving on to companion plants. The thin, columnar growth form of this evergreen shrub makes it a great option for planting in small spaces or as a vertical accent. Although Sky Pencil Holly may reach heights of up to 8 feet and widths of 2 feet, it can be cut to stay at a lesser size. In addition, it requires little upkeep and is disease and pest resistant.

Companion Plants For Sky Pencil Holly

It’s important to choose companion plants for Sky Pencil Holly that will enhance its vertical, thin growth habit. The following plants work well with sky pencil holly:

1. Japanese Forest Grass

A low-growing ornamental grass called Japanese Forest Grass enhances Sky Pencil Holly’s vertical growth. Its golden-yellow foliage adds a vibrant splash of color to the yard and creates a stunning contrast with Sky Pencil Holly’s dark green foliage.

2. Dwarf Mondo Grass

Small and evergreen, dwarf mondo grass creates a dense blanket of deep green foliage. It will complement the narrow, upright growth pattern of Sky Pencil Holly, making it a wonderful choice for planting as a ground cover around the base of the tree.

3. Hakonechloa Plant

Another low-growing ornamental grass that blends well with Sky Pencil Holly is Hakonechloa. The delicate, flowing texture of its beautifully arching leaves adds a lovely contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s hard, upright structure.

4. Boxwood Plant

A traditional evergreen shrub that goes nicely with Sky Pencil Holly is boxwood. The Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, vertical growth is complemented by the thin, uniform texture of its leaves. Boxwood is an adaptable companion plant since it may be trimmed to preserve a particular size and shape.

5. Hosta Plant

Hosta is a perennial that does well in the shadow and goes nicely with Sky Pencil Holly. Its large, rich foliage beautifully contrasts with Sky Pencil Holly’s short, upright growth. Hosta are available in a broad range of colors and sizes, making it simple to locate a selection that will go well with your particular landscape design.

6. Coral Bells Plant

Coral Bells is a perennial that grows slowly and bears small, colorful blooms with bell-like shapes. Its vibrant foliage gives the yard a splash of color and creates a stunning contrast with the dark green foliage of Sky Pencil Holly.

7. Black-Eyed Susan Plant

A perennial that enjoys the sun and goes well with Sky Pencil Holly is Black-Eyed Susan. Its vivid, daisy-like flowers bring a splash of color to the yard and make a lovely contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s deep green foliage.

8. Coneflower Plant

Another sun-loving perennial that blends beautifully with Sky Pencil Holly is coneflower. Its towering, spiky blooms add a vertical element to the Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, upright growth.

9. Salvia Plant

Salvia is a perennial that prefers the sun and goes well with Sky Pencil Holly. Its towering, spiky blooms add a vertical element to the Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, upright growth. Salvia is available in a range of hues, from dark purples to vivid pinks, making it simple to pick a kind that will go well with your particular landscape design.

10. Ornamental Onion Plant

A perennial that enjoys the sun, ornamental onions go well with sky pencil holly. Its globe-shaped blossoms provide the garden a distinctive architectural element and create a lovely contrast with Sky Pencil Holly’s upright, slender growth.

11. Astilbe Plant

Perennial astilbe, which prefers shade, goes well with sky pencil holly. The Sky Pencil Holly’s stiff, erect appearance is complemented by the gentle, flowing texture of its fluffy bloom plumes.

12. Ferns Plant

Ferns are plants that thrive in the shadow and go well with Sky Pencil Holly. The soft, flowing texture of their delicate, lacy fronds contrasts with the hard, upright structure of Sky Pencil Holly. Finding a choice of ferns that will go well with your particular landscape design is simple because they come in a wide range of sizes and forms.

13. Hydrangea Plant

Sky Pencil Holly and Hydrangea are complementary plants because they both prefer shade. Large, vibrant blossoms give a splash of color to the yard and make a stunning contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s dark green foliage.

14. Bleeding Heart Plant

Sky Pencil Holly goes well with the shade-loving perennial Bleeding Heart. Sky Pencil Holly’s hard, upright structure is balanced by the smooth, flowing texture of its delicate, heart-shaped blossoms.

15. Lily Of The Valley Plant

A perennial that enjoys the shadow, lily of the valley goes well with sky pencil holly. In addition to adding a lovely contrast to Sky Pencil Holly’s deep green foliage, its delicate, bell-shaped blossoms also provide the landscape a delicious scent.

Conclusion

A dramatic focal point may be made in any landscape using the adaptable Sky Pencil Holly plant. It will improve the beauty of your garden if you pair it with the appropriate companion plants to create a unified and aesthetically pleasing design. Make sure to use plants that match the thin, upright growth of Sky Pencil Holly and give a distinctive element to your landscape design, whether you decide to go with ornamental grasses, perennials, or shrubs.

FAQs

Is Sky Pencil Holly A Low-Maintenance Plant?

Yes, Sky Pencil Holly is both pest and disease resistant and requires relatively little maintenance.

Can Sky Pencil Holly Be Pruned To Maintain A Smaller Size?

Yes, you can prune Sky Pencil Holly to keep it at a lower size.

What Are Some Good Companion Plants For Sky Pencil Holly?

Sky Pencil Holly grows well with coral bells, black-eyed susans, boxwood, hosta, and Japanese forest grass.

Can Sky Pencil Holly Be Planted In Tight Spaces?

Yes, Sky Pencil Holly’s narrow, upright growth style makes it an excellent choice for planting in constrained places.

What Is The Height Of Sky Pencil Holly?

The Sky Pencil Holly can reach a height of 8 feet.

How Long Does A Sky Holly Live?

A Sky Pencil Holly lives 40 years on average. Consider this as you design your landscaping.

Clover is one of the weeds that annoys lawn lovers the most. The invasive plant with the scientific name Trifolium repens, which translates to “creeping three-leaf” in Latin, can quickly take over a portion of your yard where your lush lawn once flourished.

It might be challenging to get rid of clover once it has gotten its claws into your grass. Fortunately, there are natural ways to evict this unwanted visitor and prevent it from coming back permanently.

What Is Clover?

Known as a legume, clover is a member of the pea family. In the late 1600s, it traveled from Europe to the United States.

Clover can now be cultivated to be used as hay or forage by wildlife, or in food plots to draw in other animals like rabbits, deer, and turkey. There are more than 300 different species available.

How To Get Rid Of Clover Naturally

Because of its extensive root system, clover is challenging to eliminate. It is perfect as a grass substitute in yards with clover because the clover stays green all year in northern regions because to the strong roots. Three leaves and either pink or white blooms can be seen on a clover.

While many homeowners dislike clover on their lawns, some do. There are various ways to get rid of white clover if it is sprouting and spreading in your yard in spots.

There is good news if you want to go green: you don’t have to use harmful chemicals. There are several easy methods for eliminating clover naturally from your lawn.

Here are the best natural techniques to get rid of clover from your lawn:

Pull It Out By Hand

You can manually remove the clover from small spots. Pull the clover out, roots and all, after gently loosening the soil with a shovel. The clover will reappear if any roots are left behind.

Deprive It Of Oxygen And Sunlight

Clover can be eliminated by denying it any oxygen or sunshine. To prevent it from flying up, cover the area with plastic sheeting or a waste bag and secure the corners with rocks.

Within a few weeks, this ought to get rid of the clover. Be aware that if grass moves underneath the plastic, this method will also kill it.

Spray A Vinegar Solution

With this natural home treatment, you may make your own non-toxic weed killer.

Knock It Out With Nitrogen

In general, a fertilized lawn deters the growth of all weeds, but ensuring enough nitrogen levels will offer you a distinct advantage versus clover.

Since clover can create its own nitrogen, it has an advantage over a lawn that is deficient in nitrogen, which enables this weed to flourish.

Invest in a weed-and-feed formula high in nitrogen. If you only have a tiny quantity of clover, organic fertilizers might work, but if your lawn is overrun, use a regular fertilizer that is not slow release.

Kill It With Corn Gluten

Corn gluten meal, which is obtainable online and at your neighborhood garden center, can prevent clover development without endangering surrounding plants. It causes the soil to emit organic dipeptides that dry up clover seeds and make it more challenging for them to sprout.

For every 1,000 square feet of lawn, spread 20 pounds of corn gluten meal, give it plenty of water, and let it air dry.

One cup of vinegar, one cup of water, and one drop of dish soap should be combined.
Spray it onto any clover patches after shaking it. The dish soap will ensure that it stays while the vinegar will dry off the clover’s leaves.

To completely kill the clover, you might need to spray over a period of weeks. Unfortunately, spraying the solution carelessly could harm the grass.

Apply An Organic Herbicide

You can use A.D.I.O.S, a selective organic herbicide, to kill clover without harming nearby grass. Simply spray it on clover to weaken and kill the weed.

How To Prevent Clover In Your Lawn

There are several methods you can use to initially stop clover from appearing in your grass.

Spread Organic Fertilizer

Your lawn will be less conducive to clover if you use organic, slow-release fertilizer that is high in nitrogen. Traditional, fast-releasing fertilizer is preferred by some homeowners because it grows grass more quickly and is less expensive. On the other hand, applying organic fertilizer will result in longer-lasting, healthier growth. Cow manure, guano, blood meal, bone meal, earthworm castings, and liquid kelp are examples of common organic fertilizers.

Water Properly

One way to prevent clover is to maintain the correct moisture level. Too-wet grass is the ideal environment for the development of weed seeds, but stressed-out, thirsty grass also attracts weeds.

While the proper quantity of watering will depend on your soil and the type of grass you have, gardening experts advise monitoring your lawn rather than using an irrigation system that you set and forget about.

As a general guideline, water deeply once or twice a week. However, you should only water when the lawn appears dry or when growth appears to be stagnant.

Seed Those Bald Spots

There can be dry spots on your lawn that are even less attractive than the weeds once you’ve eliminated the clover patches. The answer is to immediately sow grass seed and cover with a thin layer of mulch.

Regularly watering the grass seed will encourage new growth, and fertilizing and mowing your lawn as directed will prevent clover from reappearing.

Mow Grass High

The optimum grass for growing clover is less than 3 inches tall. Your grass will be stressed at this height, which will facilitate clover growth. Your grass benefits from being cut high when you

What’s Causing Clover In My Lawn?

Clover may appear on your lawn for a number of causes, the majority of them are related to the soil.

Wrong Soil pH: For most lawns, a soil’s pH, or how acidic or alkaline it is, should fall between 6.0 and 7.0.

If the soil in your lawn is overly acidic, clover will grow much more readily and grass will be considerably more difficult to grow. Fortunately, you may adjust the pH by adding soil additions like lime.

Poor Nitrogen Levels: In soil with low nitrogen levels, clover grows well. While clover can receive the nitrogen it needs from the air, effectively producing its own fertilizer, grass needs nitrogen in the soil to grow well.

You may have used too much quick-acting fertilizer, which has led to low nitrogen levels in your soil.

Although they encourage quick grass growth, they may eventually cause your soil’s quality to decline. You can prevent this by switching to organic fertilizer like dung or cornmeal.

Compacted soil: Compacted soil keeps your grass from accessing the water, air, and nutrients it needs, especially nitrogen.

Fortunately, a core or spike aerator can be used to dissolve compaction.

FAQ

Read on for answers to some often asked questions concerning the three-leaf, white-flowered weed that can trample your lovely lawn.

Why Do I Have So Much Clover In My Lawn?

When the grass is not given enough care, clover takes over the lawn. Particularly, grass that doesn’t get enough water and fertilizer tends to eventually lose out to clover and other weeds.

When Should I Spray My Lawn For Clover?

While clover can be sprayed with a broadleaf herbicide at any time of the growing season, fall is the ideal time to do so.

What’S Causing Clover In My Lawn?

Usually, clover thrives in lawns that are overwatered, overfed, and mowed too short.

Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to maintain a healthy lawn, water only when the grass is dry, and keep the turf at 3 inches or higher to prevent clover.

What Will Kill Clover But Not Grass?

Clover and other weeds can be killed by a selective herbicide while grass is unaffected. Use non-selective herbicides sparingly because they can harm any plants they come into touch with.

Spot treating weeds rather than applying chemical weed killers widely is a good idea, even when using a selective herbicide.

Should I Get Rid Of Clover In My Lawn?

You should probably get rid of clover if your concept of a lovely lawn is an uninterrupted mat of uniform grass blades.

However, there are compelling arguments for inviting clover: In addition to attracting bees and other helpful insects, it has a pleasant perfume, tends to stay green during dry spells, and even has the ability to smother other weeds.

Why Is Clover Taking Over My Lawn?

When the weed has better growing circumstances than the grass, clover might thrive on your lawn. For instance, clover is likely to flourish in a lawn that lacks nitrogen.

Additionally, as clover is a perennial, it will probably reappear the next growing season if it is present the first.

You might be familiar with the American restaurant franchise known simply as Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen. Cheddar’s currently has more than 170 locations throughout 28 states in the United States.

Italian food lovers frequently ask if they can use an Olive Garden gift card at Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen because it is a subsidiary of that restaurant.

So, in this article, we’ll find out if and where you may use an Olive Garden gift card and a Darden Restaurants gift card.

By 2023, Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen will accept Olive Garden gift cards. Olive Garden gift cards can also be used at other Darden Restaurants affiliates in addition to Cheddar’s. Olive Garden is accessible both physically and digitally. Both Olive Garden Italian Restaurant and Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen are owned by Darden Restaurants, Inc.

However, of all the subsidiaries of Darden Restaurants, Olive Garden Italian Restaurant is one of the biggest restaurant franchises. You can spend your Olive Garden or Darden gift card at Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen even though Darden Restaurants, Inc. is the company that owns both Cheddar’s and Olive Garden.

Olive Garden is an Italian restaurant, but Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen is an American one; yet, you may use the same Darden gift card at both establishments.

Gift Card Denominations For Olive Garden

The denominations of Olive Garden gift cards vary, much like those from other restaurant chains.

Gift cards for Olive Garden are offered in:

Olive Garden gift card denominations are available as both physical and digital gifts. Gift cards for Olive Garden can be found at Target, Amazon, Kroger, Best Buy, and numerous online gift stores.

Can You Use An Olive Garden Gift Card At Red Lobster?

Yes, even though Darden Restaurants, Inc. no longer owns Red Lobster, you can spend an Olive Garden gift card at Red Lobster as of 2023. To purchase food at Red Lobster restaurants, use any Olive Garden gift card amount.

Red Lobster restaurant was purchased by Darden Restaurants, Inc. Darden later sold this division, though. Red Lobster was sold by Darden Restaurants, Inc. on July 28, 2014, to Golden Gate Capital, a private equity firm.

However, Red Lobster still accepts Olive Garden gift cards to pay for its meals.

Can You Use Olive Garden Gift Cards At Longhorn?

You can use your Olive Garden gift cards at LongHorn Steakhouse because Darden Restaurants, Inc. owns the restaurant. The Darden Restaurants company is still a major presence in the restaurant sector today.

LongHorn Steakhouse, which today has more than 500 locations in the US, was acquired by Darden Restaurants, Inc. in 2007. Therefore, LongHorn’s internal operations and those of Olive Garden as a subsidiary are comparable.

As a result, you can use an Olive Garden gift card to purchase anything at LongHorn Steakhouse if you have one.

How To Reload Olive Garden Gift Cards Balance

You shouldn’t discard the gift card if your Olive Garden gift card balance is low. Since the Olive Garden gift card is reloadable, you can add money to an existing Olive Garden gift card.

As you are aware, Olive Garden offers a variety of gift card options, but not all of them can be reloaded. On the Olive Garden Gift Card website, you may easily refill your gift card balance.

It will ask for your gift card number and the amount you wish to put onto your gift card when you click the “Reload Gift Card” option.

You have to confirm that you entered of the necessary information before getting the loaded balance on the gift card. Reloading an Olive Garden gift card quickly and easily is done online.

Where Can You Use A Darden Gift Card

American multi-brand restaurant operator Darden Restaurants, Inc. Darden Restaurants, Inc., the 50th largest private employer in the US, runs more than 1,850 restaurants around the country.

The restaurants that accept Darden gift cards are listed below:

• Olive Garden
• LongHorn Steakhouse
• Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen
• Yard House
• Red Lobster
• The Capital Grille
• Seasons 52
• Bahama Breeze
• Eddie V’s

Bottom Line

Due to Darden Restaurants’ ownership of Olive Garden, gift cards from that chain can be used at a variety of eateries. Olive Garden Italian Restaurant and Cheddar’s Scratch Kitchen Booth Restaurant are both owned by the same corporation, thus you may use an Olive Garden gift card at Cheddar’s.

Gift certificates from Olive Garden can be used at Darden restaurants like Yard House, The Capital Grille, Red Lobster, Cheddar’s, and LongHorn Steakhouse.

Check your Olive Garden gift card balance before using it, and if it isn’t enough to cover the purchase, reload it. Therefore, if you own an Olive Garden or Darden gift card, you can use it at a number of eateries in the United States.

Ask anyone in my family and they will confirm that I love the color pink. Pink scarves, pink phone, pink hoodies are just a few of the things I own in the rosy hue. So naturally when I discovered succulents in the same shade, I bought them up.

Not every garden, of course, can incorporate succulents due to sun/shade factors and USDA zone issues, nor can every landscape design embrace and accommodate a pop of pink. But usually there is room for at least one pinkalicious plant in your life. For instance, you could consider a small succulent-filled container that you bring indoors during the colder months. Or maybe you cold grow a cutie indoors and situate it by a very sunny window. And if the color pink is already in your garden and your climate can accept succulents, you could plant them in your garden beds.

Please keep reading to learn about my favorites for a pop of pink:

Echeveria ‘Afterglow’

This wonderfully colored hybrid with pale powdery pink leaves was hybridized by Don Worth, a photographer and succulent breeder in my home town. The big rosettes with their bright pink edging can almost glow in a garden, especially when backlit. Orange-red flowers emerge in the summer, but for me, it’s more about the fantastic leaf color. This deer resistant and drought tolerant succulent grows to about 1 to 2 feet high by 1 to 2 feet wide, looks best in full sun, and can take temperatures down to the mid 20s. Pair this plant with silvery gray tones or, for maximum impact, contrast it with chartreuse hues.

Echeveria ‘Perle von Nurnberg’

This rosette shaped succulent boasts a picture-perfect pink color that intensifies in full sun and cooler temperatures. Growing 3 to 5 inches high and 6 to 10 inches wide, it tolerates high heat and low water, and is a strong bloomer sending out arching stems topped with charming coral flowers. Hardy in USDA zones 9b-11, it can also thrive indoors if kept near a sunny window. Always pick a pot with drain holes and plant in a gritty, well draining soil mix.

Sedum ‘Dream Dazzler’

Relatively new on the plant scene, this easy and durable Sedum celebrates a tricolor effect of pink, white and smoky purple, with hot pink margins. An excellent and colorful groundcover among other succulents or a filler for containers. You and the butterflies will love the magenta pink blooms that cover the plant in the summer. Deer luckily leave it alone and low amounts of water don’t slow it down.  Full to part sun is best in well draining, gravelly soil. In the fall, you can trim it back after the flowering stops and even divide it up in the spring to make more of this stellar Sedum. Hardy in USDA Zones 4-9.

Oscularia deltoides

AKA ‘Pink Ice plant’, this curious succulent from South Africa is underrated but very charming. Growing low to approximately 1 foot high and 2 to 3 feet wide, it has wiry vivid pink stems that hold blue-green fleshy leaves; come springtime, small lavender-pink flowers burst open when exposed to sunlight, covering the foliage. Plant in full sun or light shade in well-draining soil. Plants that are spoiled and given more sun and water will be denser and have plumper leaves. Hardy to around 18 degrees, deer-resistant, and butterfly attracting.

Anacampseros telephiastrum f. variegatum ‘Sunrise’

Don’t let the long name deter you from growing this standout plant. The variegation boasts a cocktail of hot pink and apple green hues on thick, fleshy leaves. Perfect as a 6-inch-high filler and spiller for pots. Outside, it withstands heat and drought; inside, it does well living on a sunny window sill. In the summer you can expect large pink flowers during sunny hours. Full sun to light shade is best for vibrant color. Protect from frost.

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Friend-of-the-GPOD Cherry Ong is taking us along today to tour a beautiful greenhouse.

Serendipitous visits are fun! In a recent trip to Ontario, we saw a street banner that advertised the Spring Bulb Show at the Gage Park Tropical Greenhouse in Hamilton, Ontario. I didn’t even know about the greenhouse, so after Googling it I decided it was worth checking out.

The Gage Park Tropical Greenhouse is located at 1000 Main Street East, Hamilton. It is a newly constructed 14,000-square-foot (1300-square-meter), fully accessible greenhouse that features a collection of subtropical plants, unique species, and palm trees. It is designed as a community gathering place, providing opportunities as an educational center and a rentable space for special events, including wedding photos. The greenhouse also features waterfalls, ponds with fish, turtles, and waterlilies, and tiered concrete seating. Admission is free.

I can’t get over how fabulous this Fiji fan palm is! (Pritchardia pacifica). According to the information at the greenhouse, it is native to Tonga and can be found in similar climate types in the southwestern Pacific such as Fiji, Samoa, and the Marquesas, but this was likely due to human introduction in these areas.

Towering palms provide scale to how spectacular the height and size of this greenhouse is.

This greenhouse looks so full for a relatively newly built space.

The foliage on this Zuzuland cycad (Encephalartos ferox) is just beautiful.

I believe this vine scrambling up the greenhouse structure is some species of monkey brush (Combretum).

Monkey brush flowers have such a brilliant color!

The bright red flowers of Clerodendron thomsoniae, aka the bleeding heart vine, are set off so beautifully by the crisp white calyxes.

A basket full of ferns hangs from the support that the Clerodendron is scrambling up.

Look at this enormous vent! I imagine they can grow anything under the greenhouse and keep it healthy with a ventilation system this large.

I went gaga over this Cuban wax palm (Copernicia hospita) too!

Cuban wax palm is native to Cuba and looks stunning with this striking blue foliage.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

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Others misidentify the wood-burrowing types with ground-tunneling ones, but these pose no threat to hearth and home either.

Some are solitary nesters while others are social. Some may sting, but many more are stingless and docile.

All act as significant pollinators for our crops, flowers, and trees.

And some of our native species now even face the risk of extinction.

So, before acting to rid your premises of bees, take a few moments to learn how to tell the most common species apart.

Most are harmless to humans and their homes, and it’s far more beneficial to your local and global ecosystems to leave them in peace – they have important work to do!

Here’s what we’re looking at:

Native North American Bees

With over 4,000 species, native North American bees can be found anywhere that flowers bloom.

Unlike honeybees, which were imported by European settlers in the 1620s, most native species are socially solitary, nest in underground chambers, and produce no honey. But, there are always exceptions!

A key player in most ecosystems, they have a vital role in pollinating all blossoming plants, from food crops to wildflowers. And they’re particularly adapted for the reproduction of native plants, such as blueberries, cranberries, squash, and tomatoes.

Flying from flower to flower, they collect loose pollen on their body fur, cover their legs with it (creating what are referred to as “pollen pants”), or groom it into pollen baskets on their legs or tummies.

A naturally abundant source of protein, the collected pollen is used as a food source for the larvae that are growing in brood chambers.

The nectar the adults sip provides a high-octane fuel, and mothers will often collect enough to mix in with their stash of pollen to form “loaves” to lay their eggs on.

Most species are short lived, lasting only one season – just long enough to mate, nest, and lay eggs.

Commonly Confused Backyard Species

Bumblebees (Bombus)

Bumblebees belong to the Apidae family in the genus Bombus, and North America is home to approximately 50 species – most folks will be familiar with at least some of them.

Ranging in size from 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches, they’re covered with short, spiky hair, are mostly black in coloring, and typically have stripes of orange, white, or yellow.

Highly social, they form colonies with a single queen and several workers – sterile females and male drones.

Male drones are stingless but queens and female workers can sting, although they’re usually non-aggressive. Females will sting when provoked to defend their nest, and queens usually only sting other queens.

Ground nesters, Bombus species often nest in an existing ground cavity such as an abandoned rodent burrow. Others simply make a nest on top of the ground and loosely cover it with thatch and vegetative debris.

Once a site has been chosen, the queen constructs a few wax pots that she tops up with honey, to sip from while she tends her eggs. She also constructs a larger pot that gets stocked with a mixture of pollen and nectar. She lays her first brood of about six eggs on top of this mix – these will grow to be the sterile female workers.

Once the first batch has grown, she spends the remainder of her time laying more eggs while the workers tend to housekeeping chores and collect pollen.

Workers are usually smaller than the queen. This is why you rarely see the really big buzz-bombs after spring – they’re at home, laying eggs.

Females born after the first brood are not sterile and mate soon after emerging from the nest, adding more workers and drones. The colony grows quickly over the summer, with as many as two hundred workers, although a number closer to one hundred is the norm.

All the female workers, male drones, and the old queen die by summer’s end; the only survivors are the new generation of queens. Before winter, the new queens mate before finding a safe, sheltered spot to sleep away the cold weather.

However, our native bumblebees are under siege. According to the Xerces Society, more than one-quarter of all species face a significant risk level of extinction. Nests should be left undisturbed whenever possible.

Carpenters (Xylocopa)

Carpenters belong to the genus Xylocopa with seven species found in Canada and the US.

They measure approximately 1/2 to 1 inch in length with mostly black wings and bodies, plus stripes of yellow or orange. Some males have a white facial patch. There are also species with iridescent wings, and brightly colored body hair of blue or green.

Because of their similarity in size and coloring to large bumblebees, the two species are often confused.

The easiest way to visually distinguish between them is by looking at their abdomens. Bumblebees have abdomens covered with dense, short hair while carpenter abdomens are bare and may have a metallic sheen to them.

Carpenters also have wider heads compared to bumblebees.

Known for their docile nature, males are stingless, but like to hover near intruders. Females will sting, but only when roughly handled or aggressively provoked.

A solitary species, a single female does all the work of nest construction, plus collecting pollen and nectar for her eggs.

Their preferred nesting site is old, bare wood. The female rasps an entrance hole, then constructs a series of connecting chambers, or galleries, where she will lay a single egg atop a loaf of nectar and pollen.

As each egg is laid, she encloses it with a partition of chewed wood pulp, and then creates another pollen loaf for the next egg. These will take about seven weeks to hatch.

At summer’s end, the new adults will provision a suitable nest with pollen and sleep through winter until spring, when the cycle begins again.

Borer, Ground, and Miners (Agapostemon, Andrena, Colletes, Halictus, Lasioglossum)

In North America, several families of ground nesting bees are found in the order Hymenoptera, including Agapostemon, Andrena, Colletes, Halictus, and Lasioglossum.

Small to medium in size, these species typically measure between 1/4 to 3/4 inch in length and include the common Colletes inaequalis as well as sweat bees from the Halictidae family, miners in the Andrena family, and diggers in the subfamily Apidae.

Like many other species, they have variations in appearance with brown or black wings, black bodies, and stripes of orange, tan, yellow, or white. And some may have hairless or hairy abdomens, metallic brass, green, or blue bodies, or iridescent wings.

Non-aggressive, only the females are able to sting, though they will rarely do so and only when handled roughly.

These species of ground-nesters are socially solitary and like to dig into dry soil – not wood – to create nest sites.

Each female finds a suitable south-facing site (often bare patches in the lawn or garden), then diligently burrows an entrance and a series of brood tunnels.

She mounds the freshly dug soil around her entrance and stockpiles the nursery with pollen and nectar for her offspring. C. inaequalis even lines her nest with a cellophane-like secretion, providing a waterproof barrier that also helps to keep eggs safe from fungal disease.

Natural Predators

Backyard bees have several predators that help to keep populations in check:

Predatory birds include bee-eaters, spotted flycatchers, tits, shrikes, and woodpeckers.

Insects will also hunt them, such as the crab spider, Musomania vatia, plus dragonflies, robber flies, and wasps.

Mammals and rodents such as bears, field mice, foxes, minks, shrews, skunks, and weasels will all consume flying adults and nest contents.

Tall spires of lush flowers and dewdrop-catching leaves make lupine a star in the garden. Peach, pink, and purple shades abound. Look out for unique bicolor varieties like purple and gold (for all those Husky fans out there).

• Full sun to part shade

• Water and fertilize regularly

• 12”-5’ tall and wide, depending upon variety

• Blooms May – mid-summer

We’d love to help you choose something perfect for your individual space, whether in person or on social media using #heyswansons!

This is fine if you will just be making apple sauce or apple butter with them, but what if you want to sell your apples?

We will give you tips on how to prevent these diseases from plaguing your trees, and what to do if they do occur.

What Are Sooty Blotch and Flyspeck?

First, it’s important to understand that these symptoms are due to the activities of two different diseases. Sooty blotch is caused by several different types of fungi, while flyspeck is caused by the fungus Zygophiala jamaicensis.

These two diseases are usually grouped together because they often occur on fruit together, and are controlled the same way.

Flyspeck manifests as clusters of 6-50 black, shiny, slightly raised round dots. Sooty blotch is as it sounds –­ dark blotches that may cover most of your apples.

The worst infections occur when the spring is cool and rainy; it rains in the summer, and the fall temperatures are cool.

Your fruit can become infected any time after the petals fall, but typically this takes place in middle or late summer.

Sooty blotch often starts out by colonizing apple twigs. However, the hyphae – long, branching structures that are the fungi’s main method of growth – can fragment. These fragments can fall all over your apples, resulting in this nasty-looking infection.

Fungicides You Can Use to Control This Ugly Duo

There are a number of commercial fungicides you can use to control these diseases. If you are worried about secondary effects, some of are “reduced risk fungicides.”

Two strobilurin class fungicides show promise for controlling both sooty blotch and flyspeck. They include kresoxim methyl and trifloxystrobin. They are safer for the environment and human health but are still highly effective.

You should start the applications soon after petal fall and continue in the fall when the weather is cooler. Typically, growers apply the fungicides at 10-14 day intervals.

Now You Know How to Purge These Diseases

The symptoms of sooty blotch and flyspeck are highly alarming. Fortunately, these diseases are superficial, and you may even be able to rub the evidence of them off of your harvest.

Although your fruit are fine to eat, they may be difficult to sell. If your trees are prone to these diseases, you may want to consider red-skinned apples, because the blemishes are less noticeable.

I like to think of cilantro as the goddess of the garden. For me, she’s always there, always ready to share – both with me, and my friendly garden pollinators.

So I guess you could say I’m a cilantro worshiper of sorts, and I’m guessing I’m not the only one!

In this article we’ll cover everything you’ll need to know about growing this divine herb.

We’ll even provide harvesting, storage, and preserving tips, as well as tantalizing your taste buds with some delectable cooking ideas.

We’ll touch on the divisiveness of this culinary ingredient as well since, as you probably know, as much as it is loved by some, cilantro is also reviled by many who experience its flavor differently.

Ready to get up close and personal with this distinctive garden herb? Let’s dig in!

What is Cilantro?

A member of the Apiaceae family, Coriandrum sativum is related to many other stars of the herb and spice rack, such as parsley, chervil, dill, anise, caraway, cumin, and asafetida.

It’s also related to carrots, celery, celeriac, parsnips, lovage, angelica, and queen Anne’s lace.

C. sativum is an herbaceous annual plant whose leaves and seeds are enjoyed culinarily. The leaves, known in some parts of the world as cilantro, are used as an herb while the seeds, known as coriander, are used as a spice.

Even cilantro’s roots, stems, and flowers are edible!

Plants have a mounding growth habit, and generally reach 12 to 18 inches tall, with flower stalks bringing them to a total height of two to three feet. These plants also have a spread of 12 to 18 inches.

The lower leaves of this herb – the ones valued for cooking – look similar to those of parsley.

Coriander leaves are lobed, usually with deeply cut margins.

Plants produce umbrella-shaped inflorescences with small, individual flowers that are white to pale pink.

When a coriander flower stalk is growing, upper leaves appear which are wispier than the lower leaves, and these are not as desirable for cooking.

If you’re looking at this plant or considering the descriptions of it and thinking, “that’s not the cilantro I was looking for,” there are a couple of other plants that can be confused with the subject of our article.

Vietnamese coriander (Persicaria odorata), a plant that has long pointed leaves rather than frilly ones, has a similar flavor profile as fresh coriander but it is spicier.

And another plant, Eryngium foetidum, known as “culantro” (and no, that’s not a typo!) tastes very much like cilantro but has long, narrow leaves with serrated edges.

Cultivation and History

Native to Pakistan, the Mediterranean, and the Middle East, C. sativum has a long history as both a food and an herbal medicine.

Perhaps the oldest evidence of its use by humans, coriander seeds dating to 8,000 years ago were found in Nahal Hemar, an archeological cave site in Israel.

They were also found in the tomb of Tutankhamun, a pharaoh of ancient Egypt, as well as in other ancient Egyptian graves.

Winding its way through history, this plant was mentioned by classical Greek authors such as the ancient Greek physician, Hippocrates, and has been used medicinally since at least 1550 BCE.

When it comes to cuisine, in the United States the leaves of this plant are usually called “cilantro,” but in other parts of the world they may also be referred to as “Chinese parsley,” “Mexican parsley,” “fresh coriander,” or “coriander leaves.”

Cherished for their distinct flavor, cilantro leaves are featured in Levantine, Latin American, and Asian cooking.

Coriander leaves have a pungent, bright flavor that contrasts beautifully with earthy flavors like beans – at least, for those of us who love it, it does. (For those who don’t, the leaves may taste like soap.)

The seeds of the plant, commonly called coriander, are used whole or ground in many cuisines, particularly those of India, while the roots are incorporated into some Thai and Vietnamese dishes.

As for its use in herbal medicine, essential oils from the coriander plant exhibit antioxidant, antibacterial, and antifungal properties. This plant even shows potential for assisting in the treatment of cancer.

Research exploring the potential health benefits of various forms of coriander is ongoing, but at the very least, adding fresh and dried herbs and spices to your food is a great way to add flavor to your culinary creations and variety to your diet.

And what better way to do this than growing them in your own garden?

In addition to its use as a food and medicinal plant, coriander makes a great companion plant for other garden crops like marigolds, beans, and kale.

Want to learn more about the scientifically backed benefits of companion planting? Read our article!

One of the reasons cilantro is such a popular companion plant is that it is wonderful for attracting pollinators. In fact, it’s even considered an excellent floral crop to grow for forage for honey bees.

In addition to honey bees, cilantro attracts a wide range of beneficial insects like other types of bees, butterflies, wasps, and hoverflies.

Grown as an annual in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 11, this herb is quite adaptable to different growing setups.

Cilantro is easy to grow indoors, and it’s an herb that can be grown in a greenhouse.

You might consider growing coriander in a container, in a raised bed, or cultivating it for its flowers as part of a cut flower garden.

When used in flower arrangements, coriander inflorescences can be used as a filler, taking the place of baby’s breath.

And now, we finally arrive at the burning question – why do some people think cilantro tastes like soap?

It’s all got to do with genetics.

Because of a genetic variation, those of you who hate this herb are smelling and tasting something that the rest of us are not!

Propagation

This herb is a cool-season crop. If you want fresh leaves to enjoy, plant cilantro in spring, late summer, or early fall for the best results.

However, if you want to grow coriander plants for seeds or for flowers to attract pollinators, it’s fine to plant it during the summer as well.

This herb is extremely easy to propagate from seed, but you can also use transplants that are homegrown or purchased from a nursery. Let’s look at how to accomplish each method, starting with direct sowing outdoors:

From Seed Sown Outdoors

When direct sowing coriander outdoors, sow seeds six to eight weeks before your last average frost date. Germination is best when the soil temperature is between 55 and 68°F.

Cilantro is often grown densely when cultivated for its fresh leaves, or with more space between plants when grown for seeds.

For the leaves, you can plant coriander seeds as close as three inches apart, but it is more commonly grown six to eight inches apart.

For seed production, sow seeds 12 inches apart. In square foot gardening, this herb is grown in the center of a one-foot square.

When it comes to depth of sowing, sow coriander seeds one-quarter to one-half of an inch deep, and water in after sowing.

Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy while seeds germinate – a process which can take up to 21 days.

Keep young coriander plants well-watered, irrigating if needed, until they are about four inches tall. At that point you can reduce watering to about one inch a week.

When planted densely, young coriander seedlings can be thinned if needed, and enjoyed as part of an early spring harvest.

For a constant supply of fresh herbs, these seeds can be sown in succession every two to three weeks.

From Transplants

Once you have a cilantro plant growing in a nursery pot, you will want to transfer it to your garden, a raised bed, or a larger container.

Before transplanting, be aware that coriander seedlings grown indoors will be more tender than seeds sown directly in the soil, and will need to be hardened off.

You can learn more about growing annual plants indoors and hardening them off in our article.

Since cilantro has a delicate taproot, handle transplants gently.

To transplant coriander starts grown in biodegradable pots, break the rim of the pot off before planting it.

For those grown in plastic pots, gently squeeze the sides of the pot, then tilt the plant upside down to release it from its pot – don’t pull on the plant’s stem to remove it.

If the coriander specimen was rootbound in its plastic pot, gently rub your hand along the sides of the roots to loosen them up.

Place the transplant into a hole roughly as deep and twice as wide as the root ball, taking care not to bury the plant’s crown, and backfill with soil.

Water the plant in after transplanting.

How to Grow

Clearly, cilantro can grow without too much help since it will readily self-seed year after year if seed heads are not removed from plants.

Nonetheless, here are some tips for growing cilantro in the garden that will be helpful for when you’re first getting started:

In cool weather, it’s best to grow cilantro in full sun. But if you have a location that gets morning sun and light afternoon shade, that’s also suitable.

To prevent bolting in the heat of midsummer, this herb can be grown in part shade.

While loam is the garden soil of choice for coriander, it can be grown in a wide range of soils, as long as there is good drainage, plenty of organic matter, and a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

As for water, young seedlings need to stay well-hydrated, but once plants are established, they are fairly drought tolerant.

Cilantro plants need about an inch of water a week, more during very hot spells.

This herb grows best at temperatures between 50 and 85°F, but coriander plants can withstand lows down to 10°F.

On the other hand, when temperatures exceed 85°F, coriander will bolt more quickly, so sow some seeds where they will be exposed to light shade during the heat of the day for a continual supply of fresh leaves.

Growing Tips

• Grow coriander in full sun to part shade.
• Make sure the soil drains well.
• Provide one inch of water per week when rain is lacking, more during droughts.

Maintenance

Cilantro is an easy-going member of the garden community and it doesn’t require much upkeep. Here’s what you’ll want to know:

Young seedlings are susceptible to being crowded out by neighboring weeds, so make sure to keep the area weed free until plants get established.

If you need tips on how to spend less time weeding, read our article!

To help prevent weeds from growing around your herb crop, put a layer of mulch around seedlings, leaving an unmulched ring about one inch wide around the stem of the plant.

This will help ensure adequate airflow around the coriander plant and prevent problems with diseases.

If you add compost when you’re preparing your garden beds, you won’t need to do any additional fertilizing during the growing season.

Add two to four inches of compost into the soil before planting coriander. If sowing a succession of seeds, add more compost at the time of sowing.

Take care not to over-fertilize, however, because too much nitrogen can make the plant less flavorful.

To slow cilantro plants from bolting, provide mulch and water regularly to help keep soil temperatures low, and sow when the weather is cool.

Finally, there is one more maintenance task you’ll want to be aware of when you grow cilantro – that’s dealing with or preventing volunteers.

If you plant this herb in your garden and let the flowers go to seed, you’ll have a new crop of cilantro before you know it – either the following spring, or maybe even in autumn, right after your current crop.

Some of us might welcome such easily obtained garden plants – but to prevent these coriander babies from springing up unwanted, make sure to prune off seed heads while they are still immature and green.

If you miss a chance to prune the unripe seeds of coriander plants and you end up with a crop of unwanted volunteers, feel free to harvest them and use them as a garnish, or let them grow into new plants.

Cultivars to Select

Ready to get some coriander plants growing?

Though you’ll often find nursery-grown transplants and seed packets marked with a generic label, there are actually many different cultivars available today. These include:

But here’s a quick rundown of potential issues to be aware of, just in case:

Insects

Apart from beneficial insect visitors that adore the nectar of these plants, you won’t often have to deal with insect pests on your coriander crop.

However, weakened cilantro plants in particular are more susceptible to insect pest attacks. Here are a few culprits you’ll want to keep an eye out for:

Aphids

If you notice the foliage of your coriander plants turning yellow or becoming distorted or stunted, check the bottom sides of the leaves – aphids may be the cause.

Willow carrot aphids (Cavariella aegopodii) in particular can be a problem on cilantro.

These tiny insects suck nutrients from plant tissues, weakening them. They also leave trails of waste matter in their wake called “honeydew,” which can encourage the growth of fungal pathogens like sooty mold.

If aphids are making a meal of your herbs, they can often be removed with a strong jet of water from the garden hose.

Planting your coriander crops in a polyculture style with a mix of plants from different families in each growing area will help to reduce the presence of pests like aphids, as this type of gardening will increase the presence of helpful beneficial insects such as parasitoid wasps.

Some of these wasps target aphids, so if you do have a batch of aphids on a coriander plant, check for individuals that are bloated and discolored – these have already been parasitized, and you should leave them be. The wasps will do their job controlling these pests.

Learn more about controlling aphids in our article.

Cutworms

Have you ever admired your young crop of coriander seedlings, only to return the next day and find that some of them have vanished?

Cutworms were likely to blame for their disappearance.

These caterpillars tend to spend their days in the top layer of the soil. Emerging at night to feed, they often sever the stems of young seedlings.

While preparing your garden soil in the spring, if you happen upon a cutworm or two, they make a nice treat for neighboring wild birds, such as robins looking for food for their young.

There are ways to protect young seedlings from cutworms – learn more in our article.

Root-Knot Nematodes

Not to be confused with beneficial nematodes, root-knot nematodes are microscopic worm-like organisms that form galls on plant roots.

Signs that these organisms are attacking crops include coriander plants which have lost vigor or are turning yellow and wilting in hot weather.

Learn more about dealing with root-knot nematodes in our article.

Disease

These are some of the most common diseases to look out for on C. sativum:

Bacterial Leaf Spot

Have you noticed small, water-soaked spots on the foliage of your coriander crop?

Lesions caused by bacterial leaf spot, a type of bacterial disease which also affects turnips, will look tan or brown, changing to black and eventually becoming dry and papery.

This bacteria is transmitted from infected seed and then transferred to healthy foliage via splashing water.

Overhead watering, such as sprinkling, promotes the development of this disease, so water at the base of coriander plants instead.

Choose a resistant cultivar if this has been an issue in the past, and be sure to rotate crops in the same family.

Damping Off

There are few things more exciting than a sprouted coriander seed raising its seed leaves above the soil – but excitement can be quickly replaced with disappointment if damping off takes out the young seedling.

This fungal disease can occur when conditions are too damp or when a non-sterile growing medium is used.

Learn more about damping off in our article.

Powdery Mildew

Have you noticed powdery white or gray spots on your herb’s foliage?

Chances are a disease called “powdery mildew” is affecting your coriander plant.

This fungal disease occurs when conditions are humid but mild, in the 70 to 80°F range.

Luckily, powdery mildew on cilantro is not the end of the line for your herbs – treatment is possible!

There are many homemade and organic remedies for powdery mildew – learn about them in our article!

Harvesting

Cilantro leaves can be harvested at any time you like after the plants begin to grow, but you’ll want to allow seedlings to get established before you pick too many leaves.

A good rule of thumb is not to harvest more than a quarter of the plant’s foliage at one time if you want it to keep producing.

Also, wait a few days between harvests to avoid stressing coriander plants.

A little cilantro goes a long way, so if you want to keep a supply going as long as possible, just harvest it as you need it rather than picking a big bunch at one time.

On the other hand, if you do need a lot all at once, wait until the plant is about six inches tall. You can then cut the plant back to a couple of inches tall to allow it to regrow.

Once plants start to bolt, the leaves can start to develop a slightly bitter taste. If you let your plants flower and go to seed, you can harvest the seeds at either of two stages.

Some folks like to use green cilantro seeds in their culinary creations. But for a harvest of coriander spice that will keep in your spice rack, allow the seeds to dry and turn brown on the plant.

If you prefer to harvest mature coriander seeds, wait until the majority of them turn brown, then cut off the seed heads along with a few inches of stalk and place upside down in a paper bag.

Place the paper bag in a warm, well-ventilated location to allow the seeds to finish drying.

The seeds will eventually finish drying and fall out of the heads into the bottom of the bag. Store them in a lidded glass jar in a cool, dry location.

Storing and Preserving

While picking leaves as you need them is the best plan, when plants start to bolt you may want to harvest more than you can use.

Clean fresh coriander leaves by soaking them in a bowl, then spinning them dry in a salad spinner.

Next, sandwich the dried leaves between two paper towels to absorb excess moisture, and place them (along with the paper towels) in a sealed refrigerator container.

Fresh cilantro will keep in the fridge stored in this manner for one to two weeks.

If you have more than you can use in that amount of time, you may want to preserve the extra, and freezing is the preferred method for longer term storage.

While many herbs can be dried, doing so with fresh coriander will significantly change the flavor of this herb.

Learn how to freeze fresh herbs in our article.

As for coriander seeds, when harvested at the right stage, they can keep their flavor in storage for three to four years.

For maximum flavor, grind the seeds just as you need them.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

If you’re considering growing cilantro in your garden, I’m guessing you already have plenty of ideas for how you’ll use this culinary herb with your meals – but just in case, let me give you some additional food for thought anyway.

Cilantro can be added to dishes while you’re cooking, but it will impart the most flavor if added fresh just before serving.

As a verified cilantro-head, one of my favorite ways to use coriander leaves when I have plenty growing in the garden is to whip up a batch of cilantro pesto.

If you’ve ever made a basil pesto from scratch, the idea with this variation is the same, just substitute cilantro for the basil.

I also like to switch out the traditional walnuts or pine nuts for pistachios, and use lime juice instead of lemon juice.

This pesto can be tossed with pasta, stirred into a pureed carrot soup, or used on pizza in place of tomato sauce.

Never made a fresh homemade pesto? No worries, you’ll find a pesto recipe to guide you from our sister site, Foodal.

While this pesto certainly puts cilantro in a starring role, there’s another delicious sauce where it can play an excellent supporting role. That’s in the classic fresh salsa, pico de gallo.

This fresh salsa is simple to make, and it incorporates other ingredients like tomatoes and jalapenos that you may have close at hand growing in your summer veggie garden. You’ll find a recipe for homemade pico de gallo at our sister site, Foodal.

Fresh sauces like pico de gallo seem to have uncountable uses, but sometimes you might want a hardier sauce, like when you’re trying to add a bit of protein to a meal.

Our herbe du jour can also be worked into a tahini sauce that can be drizzled onto falafel, avocado toast, and sweet potato fries, or used as a dressing to take a fresh green salad to a new level of bliss and satisfaction.

Find our recipe for vegan tahini sauce with cayenne on Foodal.

Finally, if you’re looking for a main dish where cilantro can steal the show, why not try this fabulous pumpkin curry?

The bright flavors of cilantro and lime team up to create a beautiful contrast to the earthy sweetness of pumpkin in this dish – which is perfect for serving over a bowl of rice or scooping up with some naan.

You’ll find the recipe for Asian style pumpkin curry on Foodal.

As for coriander seeds, they are a common ingredient in curries, pastries, homemade sausage, and brining or pickling mixes.

Need tips for cooking with this spice? Check out this article on cooking with coriander from Foodal.

Freezing bok choy is quick and easy. It’s a great way to savor that garden-fresh flavor all year long and have it on hand whenever you need it.

You can heat it up for a quick side dish, or use your frozen bok choy in any of your recipes.

In this post, I’ll show you exactly how to freeze bok choy fresh from your garden, the farmer’s market, or grocery store with easy-to-follow step by step instructions.

Preparing Bok Choy For Freezing

Before you freeze your bok choy, there are a few steps you need to take to get it ready. 

First, start by washing the leaves and stems to remove any dirt or debris. Use a damp paper towel or just gently rub them with your fingers as you rinse if they’re really dirty.

Next, pat them dry or use a salad spinner to remove as much of the excess water as possible.

If you plan to leave yours whole, then you’re done. Otherwise, cut off the very bottom of the stalk to separate the stems. Then chop the leaves and stems into bite-sized pieces.

Do You Have To Blanch Bok Choy Before Freezing?

You don’t have to blanch bok choy before freezing it, which is nice because it makes the process much faster.

Although you could blanch it first if you’d like, as it may help to preserve some of the flavor and color.

However, in my experience, I find that it becomes a bit mushier when I blanch it first, so I prefer to skip this step.

How To Blanch Bok Choy To Freeze

If you would like to blanch your bok choy before freezing it, bring a pot of water to a boil on the stove.

Place the bok choy (whole or in pieces) into a colander or steamer basket before putting it into the boiling water. Flash-cook it for 40 seconds, or until the leaves turn bright green.

Remove it from the pot and place it into an ice bath immediately to stop the cooking process, allowing it to cool for a few minutes.

Methods For Freezing Bok Choy

You can freeze your bok choy whole or chopped, or you can flash-freeze it first. The method you choose depends on how much time you have, and also how you plan to use it later on.

Freezing It Whole Or Cut Up

The quickest method is to leave the heads whole. But chopping then into pieces first will make it easier to use in your cooking and recipes, plus you can portion out only what you need.

The problem with doing it this way is that the pieces tend to clump together, which can make them difficult to separate.

Flash Freezing Bok Choy

Flash freezing bok choy first prevents the pieces from sticking together. However it is an extra step and does take a little longer.

If you want to try this, simply spread the cut up pieces evenly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Then put it into the freezer for about 15 minutes, or until the pieces are firm to the touch.

Tools & Supplies Needed

Below is a list of equipment and tools that you will need to freeze bok choy. Depending on the method you choose, you might not need everything.

How To Store Bok Choy In The Freezer

The easiest way to store frozen bok choy is to use freezer-safe bags. Gently squeeze all of the extra air out of the bags before sealing them so they take up less space.

If you don’t want to use plastic, you can use any type of airtight freezer-friendly container you have.

Or you could use a food vacuum sealer for even better protection from freezer burn.

How Long Does Frozen Bok Choy Last?

Frozen bok choy can last 3-6 months or longer in the freezer, as long as you prepare it correctly and store it properly. 

FAQs

Below I have answered some of the most common questions I get about freezing bok choy. If you can’t find yours here, ask it in the comments section.

What is the best way to freeze bok choy?

The best way to freeze bok choy is to leave it raw, and either whole or cut into pieces. Then flash-freeze it before storing it in baggies.

Why did my frozen bok choy go mushy?

Frozen bok choy tends to go mushy if you cook it first, but it can happen with raw bok choy too. The best way to prevent this is to add it to your recipe frozen as you cook instead of thawing it first.

Can you freeze raw bok choy?

Yes you can freeze raw bok choy. In fact it’s better to freeze it raw, because when it’s cooked first it can become mushy. This is also the fastest way to do it.

Can bok choy be frozen without blanching?

Yes, bok choy can be frozen without blanching, and this is the method I recommend. While blanching could help it retain the color and flavor better, it also tends to make it mushier.

Can fresh bok choy be frozen?

Fresh bok choy can be frozen raw, and either whole or cut into pieces. It’s a good idea to flash-freeze it first to prevent it from sticking together.

If you’re short on gardening space, grow up! My Vertical Vegetables book has all the info you need to grow a fabulous vertical vegetable garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More About Food Preservation

Share your tips for freezing bok choy in the comments section below.

Step By Step Instructions

Mother’s Day is the perfect time to show your love and appreciation for the most important woman in your life. One of the best ways to do so is by sending her a beautiful bouquet of flowers. Mother’s Day bouquets have been a tradition for years, and they continue to be the most popular gift of choice. However, choosing the perfect bouquet can be a daunting task. With so many different combinations available, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. To help you decide, one of our nation’s leading florists, provided some ideas on what is the best bouquet to select.

Here are some flower combinations they stated that will make your mom’s day on Mother’s Day.

Classic Combinations for Traditional Moms

For moms who appreciate tradition and classic styles, you can never go wrong with a bouquet of red roses. Roses are a timeless symbol of love and admiration, and they are perfect for expressing your gratitude to your mom on Mother’s Day. You can add some baby’s breath or greenery to make the bouquet even more beautiful. Another classic combination is a mix of pink and white blooms. This combination is perfect for moms who love feminine and delicate styles.

Bright and Bold Blooms for the Adventurous Mom

If your mother is adventurous and loves to explore new things, she’ll appreciate a bouquet of bright and bold blooms. Sunflowers, dahlias, and gerbera daisies are great choices for a vibrant and lively bouquet. You can add some greenery or yellow buds to complement the bright blooms.

Soft and Serene Arrangements for the Peaceful Mom

For mothers who love peace and serenity, a soft and serene arrangement will be perfect. Think pastel shades of pink, purple, and blue. Roses, peonies, and hydrangeas are great choices for a calming and peaceful bouquet. You can add some eucalyptus or lavender for an extra touch of relaxation.

Sweet and Simple Bouquets for the Minimalist Mom

If your mom loves minimalism and simplicity, a sweet and simple bouquet will be perfect for her. A bouquet of white tulips, ranunculus, or lilies will make her day. You can add some greenery or filler stems to add some texture and interest to the bouquet.

Fragrant Combinations for the Scent-Loving Mom

For mothers who love fragrant bouquets, a bouquet of scented blooms will be a perfect gift. Lavender, jasmine, and gardenias are great choices for a fragrant bouquet. You can add some roses or other filler flowers to complement the scent.

Unique Pairings for the Quirky Mom

If your mom has a quirky and unique personality, a bouquet of unusual stem pairings will be perfect for her. Consider mixing different types of flowers, colors, and textures. Proteas, succulents, and cacti are great choices for a unique and unexpected bouquet.

Colorful Mixes for the Cheerful Mom

If your mom loves colors and cheerful designs, a colorful bouquet will make her day. You can mix different types of flowers in vibrant shades of pink, purple, orange, and yellow. Think roses, tulips, and daisies. You can add some greenery or filler stems to make the bouquet even more cheerful.

Exotic Arrangements for the Worldly Mom

For moms who love to travel and explore different cultures, an exotic flower arrangement will be perfect for her. Think orchids, birds of paradise, and anthuriums. These flowers have unique shapes and colors that will make her feel like she’s traveling the world through bouquets.

Elegant and Sophisticated Bouquets for the Stylish Mom

For moms who love elegance and sophistication, a bouquet of elegant blooms will be perfect for her. Think lilies, orchids, and roses in shades of pink, white, and purple. You can add some greenery or filler buds to add some texture and interest to the bouquet. A bouquet wrapped in luxurious wrapping paper or tied with a satin ribbon will make the gift even more elegant.

Romantic Combinations for the Loving Mom

Finally, for moms who love all things romantic, a bouquet of romantic flowers will be perfect. Think red roses, peonies, and ranunculus. These symbolize love and passion, and they are perfect for expressing your love to your mom. You can add some baby’s breath or greenery to make the bouquet even more beautiful.

Rustic Flower Combinations for the Nature-Loving Mother

If your mom loves nature and rustic charm, a bouquet of wildflowers, herbs, and foliage will be perfect for her. Consider daisies, sunflowers, lavender, and eucalyptus. These flowers and greenery have a natural and organic feel that will bring the beauty of nature into her home. You can add some twine or burlap wrapping to complete the rustic look of the bouquet. Your mother will love the earthy and natural vibes of this combination.

Modern Arrangements for the Trendy Mom

For moms who love modern and contemporary styles, a sleek and sophisticated flower arrangement will be perfect for her. Think monochromatic bouquets, asymmetrical designs, and unique flower combinations. Proteas, succulents, and anthuriums are great choices for a modern and trendy bouquet. You can add some metallic accents or geometric vases to make the gift even more modern. Your mother will appreciate the stylish and chic design of this flower combination.

Monochromatic Bouquets for the Minimalist Mother 

If your mom loves minimalism and simplicity, a monochromatic bouquet will be perfect for her. You can choose a single color and use different shades and textures of flowers in that color to create a beautiful and elegant bouquet. Think white, pink, or yellow flowers. Roses, peonies, and hydrangeas are great choices for a monochromatic bouquet. You can add some greenery or filler flowers in the same color family to add some depth and interest to the bouquet. Your mother will love the understated and sophisticated design of this flower combination.

Thank you to Kremp Florist for their guidance in selecting a Mother’s Day bouquet.

Watering a garden

This is a term that describes the method by which water is applied to crops. As watering is one of the most important garden operations, it is essential that the most efficient system be used. Such has been the progress with modern equipment that there is a large number of different types of water appliances on the market.

The selection must depend on the area of ground which has to be dealt with and the type of crop grown and its water requirement. One of the simplest forms of irrigation is practiced in China where a large number of channels are dug out of fields so that water from a nearby river can be directed to water crops growing in the fields. This is not done in England but there are several simple methods which can be used.

This takes the form of a length of thin plastic or rubber tubing which has spray nozzles for hoses fitted at regular intervals. When this tubing is connected to the water supply, the water percolates slowly through these nozzles and soaks the soil around them. If the tubing is arranged so that the nozzles coincide with individual plants, water requirements can be concentrated just where it is needed.

Gardeners will find this system one answer to the holiday watering problem especially as it can be used in the greenhouse or frames equally well. As watering or irrigation is particularly troublesome in the greenhouse, a special irrigation bench has been developed. This works on the capillary system where water is allowed to seep into a bed of sand on the staging. The sand is maintained in a moist condition all the time. Pot plants placed on the sand take up the moisture, aided in the case of clay pots by the use of a small piece of glass fiber wick which is inserted through the drainage hole on the pot’s base. Plastic pots do not require this as they are in closer contact to the sand owing to their thin section. One big advantage with this system is that plants can take up just sufficient water for their own individual needs.

For large areas of the garden or growing crops, metal spray lines are ideal as these throw a large volume of water through holes or nozzles in the metal pipes. Pipes can be purchased in various lengths and can be quickly connected together so that very long rows of crops can be dealt with at one time. The more expensive systems are oscillating types that turn left and right by a water pressure operated unit at one end of the pipeline. The pipes are laid on low metal legs or support above the crops. This system of irrigation is particularly suited to the commercial grower.

The amateur gardener can water quite large areas if he uses the oscillating type of sprinkler which can be set or ‘dialed’ to water preset areas. The water pressure drives a system of nylon gear wheels which turn the spray unit. Many models will work successfully on water pressure as low as 10-15kg (20-30lb) per 6 sq cm (sq in). Smaller areas can be watered in the same way if smaller models are used.

Irrigation can be employed in the form of revolving sprinklers which eject a fine spray of water over a circular area. In the more elaborate types, the arc of working can be set or adjusted so that difficult areas (a wedge-shaped area, for example) can be irrigated.

Successful irrigation also depends on having a good supply of water at convenient parts of the garden, especially if it is a large one. Although hose pipes are necessary for connection purposes to the various pieces of equipment used, convenient points in the garden will considerably facilitate irrigation plans. For this purpose, polyethylene tubing can be buried underground to connect to a series of standpipes of the same material. These can be fitted Hozelock hose pipe connectors and on/off switches.

Irrigation is important for plants grown under cloches and frames. Trickle irrigation lines under them laid on the soil by the plants will ensure that plenty of water will reach the roots quickly. There are some cloche and frame designs which have built-in irrigation in the apex of the roof. This usually takes the form of the perforated pipe which, when connected to the hose pipe waters plants underneath by a fine spray of water.

There is no doubt that with a little ingenuity and with the aid of the modern equipment available, the average gardener can install an irrigation system in his own garden

Yesterday I made the mistake of looking up various bamboo trellis designs earlier today, then found myself out at the edge of the yard with a sawsall, cutting canes to drag back to the garden.

I’m thinking of building something like this:

Unfortunately, that website now does not exist, though I found the text describing the trellis build via the Internet Wayback Machine. The rest of the photos are gone, however.

We’ve made some bamboo trellises before – they are not only useful, they are beautiful.

Well, I mean, they CAN be beautiful. That one above is probably the ugliest one I ever made, but I was in a hurry.

Anyhow – once I got a bunch of bamboo cut and dragged to the garden yesterday afternoon, I got distracted by a friend’s visit and ended up planting some peaches and cassava  and doing some weeding instead.

Maybe I’ll work on it this evening. It’s pouring right now.

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Whether you’re hoping to pot up a few to nurture on a sunny windowsill, or you have a patch of sandy ground in full sun that’s just begging to be filled, the following tips will help you to become the best succulent parent on the block.

Let the Light Shine

Most succulents are native to hot and dry climates, and their illumination needs are high. For this reason, full sun is a must.

They can do well in a particularly warm and bright window, and moving your outdoor succulents to pots indoors in the winter is recommended in cold climates. But keep in mind that indoor plants won’t typically bloom for you.

Of course, many gardeners love a challenge, and coaxing flowers to emerge indoors isn’t completely outside the realm of possibility if you’re using grow lights.

Some succulents can also tolerate a bit of shade, and many that have been grown in dappled sun or partial shade for a time will actually change colors when they’re exposed to bright light.

There’s no easy rule of thumb as far as watering frequency goes; recommendations to water once or twice a week might seem like a magic fix, but the truth is, many factors play a role – including the size of your plants and the pots or area they’re planted in, the average temperature and humidity, and the time of year.

Don’t be afraid to dip your finger a few inches into the dirt to see how well-watered your babies really are, and use a rain gauge outdoors to monitor precipitation.

This is the case especially if you’re transferring your succulents from indoor pots to the ground with the return of warm weather each year, or repotting annually in new soil.

But keep in mind that overwatering, planting in inadequate soil to begin with, or even a healthy period of growth and blooming can deplete soil nutrients more rapidly, and a lack of blooms or failure to thrive in other ways can also serve as indications that some intervention is required.

Be sure to use a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer that is recommended for succulent plants. Compost tea is another option favored by many gardeners. Add either of these to the base of succulents in moist soil, and be sure to avoid the plant itself to prevent leaf burn.

Succulents are also prone to rotting when there is too much nitrogen in the soil or potting mix, so if you choose to amend your potting medium, this is yet another reason to apply a slow-release, low-nitrogen product.

Plants in small pots will typically need less than what’s recommended on the label, and dilution with water is recommended. Application of too much fertilizer can encourage leggy growth, and fertilizers should only be applied after new growth appears in the spring and when plants are in an active growth phase, not in the winter when plants go dormant.

One additional caveat to keep in mind: an indoor environment differs greatly from the conditions that plants experience when grown in a hot and dry climate outdoors. For many plants, dormancy actually occurs during the hottest months of August and September, whereas wet and mild winters might encourage a period of active growth.

Keep your location in mind, and be observant of your plants. As you become more familiar with their growth habits and healthy appearance, you’ll become a better judge of what they’re telling you, and better able to meet their needs. Keeping a gardening journal can help you to track ther progress.

Almost Trouble-Free

So far, so good – right?

Provide adequate sunlight and good drainage, avoid overwatering and overfertilizing, and you’re on your way to growing a garden full of beautiful succulents!

Here’s the good news: That’s pretty much it, in terms of regular care.

But sometimes, you have a rainy summer and outdoor plants become sodden, or your plant sitter is heavy-handed with the watering can. In these cases, excess moisture makes them vulnerable to pests like snails, mealybugs, aphids, and scale, fungal disease, and rot.

Here’s how to handle the challenges that sometimes arise:

Remove snails by hand at night, or on a cloudy day immediately following a rainstorm, when they’re most active.

Spray whitish mealybugs and their web-like mess with a strong stream of water, or a solution of half denatured alcohol and half water. Or, remove them with cotton swabs soaked in rubbing alcohol.

Aphids are another pest that can be a problem. They feed on plant juices and may destroy vulnerable plants, like those that have been overwatered.

If you see an infestation, spray them away with a steady stream of water.

Similarly, insects called scale like to feed on juices, and succulents make quite a feast. They look like brown spots.

Destroy soft ones by scratching them off with your fingernail. For harder bugs, gently rub on some denatured alcohol that has been diluted by half with water. Discard leaves that don’t respond to treatment.

Other brown spots or patches may be caused by edema, which is swelling from over-watering.

In addition to over-watering, plants may get too much moisture from humid air. So, promote air circulation by spacing potted plants generously, and keeping them out of moist places like laundry areas and bathrooms.

Dried out leaves can be gently removed, and plants that have been severely dehydrated can often be saved at least in part by propagating new ones from whatever healthy portions are left. See our guide to succulent propagation for advice.

And finally, plants that are handled or bumped frequently may develop blemishes that penetrate the flesh of a leaf or stem, and heal with a scar.

Keep any eye on blemished leaves and stems of all types, and treat or discard as needed. If any type of infestation or blight becomes a regular problem, consider taking a healthy cutting to start a new plant, or discard the plant entirely.

Don’t worry if you lose a few on your way to becoming a pro – it’s part of the learning process.

Indoor light is not as intense as outdoor sunshine. Watch your plants for leggy growth. This may indicate that they are stretching to reach daylight.

If this is the case, consider supplementing with a grow light.

For plants that remain indoors year-round, unpot and examine the roots each spring. While most varieties are rather shallow-rooted, you may need to repot if they become tightly wound.

You may place houseplants outside for the summer. Introduce them gradually early in the season by setting them in an area of partial shade at first, then in full sun or partial shade as appropriate.

Those that will be returned to your garden beds and planted in the ground may also be introduced to the outdoors a little at a time by placing pots in a partially shaded area, and allowing them to acclimate to outdoor conditions for several days before planting.

Unpot and place them in appropriately amended garden soil when the sun is still low on a warm morning, to minimize transition stress.

Collaborative post

A garden is the pride and joy of many homeowners. You might think that improving a garden has to be very expensive, but you can put your DIY skills to use and spend time on a few projects that transform your outdoor space.

Even complete beginners can make a significant difference to their garden on a budget. Spending time on garden projects also allows you to connect with nature, get some exercise, and enjoy the outdoors.

In this article, we’ll guide you through unique DIY garden projects for beginners. Each project is easy to do, and also creative enough for more experienced DIYers and gardeners.

Explore the charm of raised beds

Raised beds can be an excellent solution for gardens of any size, including ones with limited space. They can provide better drainage, improved soil quality, and easier access for planting, weeding, and harvesting.

Raised beds can be made of various materials, from wood, stone, and bricks to recycled materials like pallets. You could even get a bulk quantity of sleepers from Suregreen. Creating raised beds yourself allows you to customise them based on your available space and preferences. They can be an attractive feature in your garden, especially when you combine them with a variety of colourful flowers, herbs, or vegetables.

If you decide that raised beds are the right DIY project for you, there are some things you need to consider. First, you should choose a suitable location. Then, you need to measure and level the area. Select suitable materials and fill the beds with quality soil. Remember to avoid chemicals that could harm soil, plants, or wildlife.

Add more structure with a garden path

Paths in your garden can be both practical and decorative. Gravel, stone, wood, or bricks could help you to create a designated area for walking or separate the key areas of your garden.

To make sure that you’re happy with the results of your project, you need to decide what style of path you’d prefer – for example, straight or curved, natural or formal, patterned or mosaic design. At the beginning of the project, you should measure and mark out the path. Then, prepare the ground and choose the right materials. You also need to incorporate proper drainage and stability; using sleepers in the process of constructing the path could help you ensure that it is stable and will last for years to come.

Reduce waste with a compost bin

Composting is a sustainable way to reduce waste in your household and create nutrient-rich soil for your garden. To make your own compost, you need to collect organic materials such as kitchen scraps, garden waste, and leaves, and let them decompose over time in a compost bin.

DIY compost bins are easy to make and are an ideal project for any beginner. You can customise them according to your available space. Wood, wire mesh, and plastic containers are some of the materials you could use for the project. Make sure you choose a suitable location and add a balance of green and brown materials. Most importantly, turn the compost regularly. After a few months you will be able to provide your plants with essential nutrients and improve soil structure – all for free.

Create a vertical garden

Vertical gardens allow you to maximise space and add greenery to a small area. Using vertical gardens could help you to grow plants on a wall, fence, or in a container. They also provide several benefits, such as improved air quality and reduced noise pollution.

DIY vertical gardens can be made from pallets, containers, hanging baskets, and other materials. You can tailor them to the amount of space you have available, or to plants that you prefer. When creating a vertical garden, you need to choose a good location, then select the right plants and ensure proper drainage. You should also make sure that you can water the plants easily.

Design and build a garden bench

Your garden should be a place where you can wind down after a difficult day and find some peace. And to do that, you should have a space to sit and be comfortable. Creating a garden bench is an easy project for beginners, and it gives you an excellent opportunity to let your creativity run free.

Just like in other projects, you can use a variety of materials like pallets, concrete, or wood. You can design the bench to match the style and colours of your garden. Those who feel a bit more adventurous could even include features such as built-in planters or storage. Before you cut into the material, ensure that your measurements are right. You might also want to finish the bench with weather-resistant coating to boost its longevity.

Attract more wildlife with a birdhouse

Another way to transform your garden into a tranquil sanctuary is to bring in more wildlife. A birdhouse could help you to attract birds into your garden and provide them with a safe and comfortable nesting space. At the same time, birdhouses can act as a decorative feature in your garden, especially when you paint or decorate them.

Creating a birdhouse can be easy; all you need is wood or tin cans with no sharp edges. You can customise the design based on the type of birds you’d like to see in your garden, and adjust its size accordingly. Attracting more birds to your garden could help you with pest control and create a delightful chirping ambience.

Find shelter in a garden arbour

Garden arbours are another element that could help you to make your garden more homely and peaceful. They provide a shaded area where you can relax and enjoy some privacy. They can also add a decorative feature to your garden. To enhance the look, you might want to decorate the arbour with climbing plants or hanging planters.

To build a garden arbour you could use materials such as wood and metal, or even utilise old doors or windows. You need to make sure that your measurements are correct and that the structure has enough support and is stable. Once you finish the project, you can benefit from the shade and create a focal point in your garden.

Plant a herb garden

Herb gardens are ideal DIY garden projects for beginners. Growing your own herbs could help you to make your household more sustainable. With fresh and flavourful cooking ingredients in your garden you can remove items from your shopping list, and also bring delightful fragrances into your outdoor space.

When it comes to growing herbs you have lots of options, including using pots, raised beds, or planting them directly into the ground. Before you plant the herbs, you need to choose a suitable location with enough sunlight. Ensure that you use the right soil and drainage, and space the herbs properly.

Planting a herb garden obviously helps with your cooking, but it will also bring more colour and fragrance into the garden and attract insects and pollinators that will support your local ecosystem.

Enhance the elegance of your garden with macrame

The beautiful art of macrame could help you to give a unique touch to your garden décor. This method of knotting strings or cords to create intricate patterns and designs allows you to create plant hangers, wall hangings, or even outdoor curtains.

Macrame decorations are most often made with white cord. However, there are many colours, and you can tailor each piece to your taste. Before you get started with macrame projects, you might want to master the basic knots. Adding macrame elements to your garden can bring in more texture and make the space more visually interesting. It could also help you tune into the bohemian vibe and make the garden look cosy.

Keep track of your plants with garden markers

This is another great option when it comes to DIY garden projects for beginners. Garden markers can be useful for identifying and labelling your plants, especially if you have a variety of herbs, flowers, or vegetables in your garden. You can make your own from wood, ceramic, or even lolly sticks to create unique markers that will help you to keep your garden a bit more organised.

If you make your own garden markers you can fully tailor them to your personal style. Make sure you’re working with durable and weather-resistant materials, and use a waterproof pen or paint for labelling.

Boost wildlife with a water feature

Water features can help you to attract wildlife into your garden and create an ideal environment for birds, insects, and amphibians. Creating a pond in your garden might sound like a difficult project to take on, but you can keep it simple if you stick to a small scale. All you need is a pot or a tub, sand and gravel.

If you’d prefer a water feature instead of a pond, you can make a small one using a pot and a water pump. The rest of the project completely depends on your vision and personal taste.

Transform your creative ideas into reality

As you can see, there are plenty of DIY garden projects for beginners. You might feel uncertain and nervous if you’ve never worked on a DIY project before, but all you need to do is dive in and improve your skills as you go. You don’t need to be an expert or have a large budget to make your garden beautiful and functional.

You’re in for a treat. Unlike those hard, uniform tomatoes you get at your grocery, your fruit will come in a wide range of shapes, and its flavors will be so much better. Let’s get started!

Ripeness & Storage:

You may love fried green tomatoes (we do), but in general, the key to great fruit is picking it when it’s actually ripe, and not before then. Tomatoes will change color after their picked, but they won’t gain flavor, so it’s in your best interest to leave them on the plants**.

So when do you pick? You can pick a tomato at any point after it begins to show a bit of color break (meaning a bit of it’s final color), until it’s soft and has completed its color change. The longer you leave it on the plant, the more flavor you’ll get. Remember though, tomatoes ripen from the inside, so when the outside looks ready, and feels soft, pick it, and eat it quick!

You may notice that some tomatoes begin to split on the vine. These
are simply bursting with juiciness and flavor, and they’re definitely still good to eat. To minimize on this splitting, cut way back on you watering, and the plants will stop pouring so much juice into their fruit. As an added bonus, this will also concentrate the flavor in your fruit.

If you need to pick some fruits before they’re completely ripe, you certainly can, but PLEASE follow this simple rule:

DO NOT REFRIGERATE!

Cold temperatures ruin tomatoes – hurting their flavor and their texture. Actually, so do warm ones (once they’re picked), and ideally, you should store fruit between 55º-70ºF. Avoid direct sunlight, and make sure to store them with their stems up to avoid bruising.

If you can’t eat all your harvest before it’s too late,
don’t worry, and don’t throw them away! You have options:
1. Share them with friends (or enemies you’re hoping to make peace with). They’ll love you for it.
2. Make sauce. Try one of our recipes.
3. Freeze them.
4. Dry them.
5. Can them.

So that’s it. Just remember, leave the fruit on the vine until
it’s as close to ripe as you can, and look for fruit that is
soft and juicy, not firm. And please, please, please, never refrigerate
your tomatoes. Enjoy!

Flavor Basics:

Acid content defines the characteristic “tomato” flavor. A true tomato possesses a delicate balance of these acids and the sought-after sugary sweet flavors that taste buds so often associated with tomato fruit. An overly sweet tomato doesn’t have enough defining acid, and can taste bland. In general, the lighter a tomato’s color, the less acid present in the fruit, and the sweeter and more mild the overall flavors. Tomatoes like Great White and White Beauty have this very mild, sweet flavor, without the tartness some find essential to true tomato taste.

Pink and red varieties like Brandywine Pink and Stupice achieve
the balance of sweet and acid perfectly and are many people’s choice
in all-around flavor. Dark, black tomatoes like Cherokee Purple
and Paul Robeson are champions of the acid. With less sugar to mask
the almost earthly flavors inherent in their fruit, many find these
dark tomatoes’ unique flavor as the most sought-after.

Whatever guidelines are established, trust in the tomatoes to break
convention. One palate’s acid will invariably be another’s sickly
sweet. The best way to know is to eat them. You won’t be disappointed.

*Just so you know, we don’t hate grocery stores. In fact, they do a fine job, considering their fruit is picked by robots, shipped around the country in trucks, and sits on your store shelf for days. For a tomato to survive this, it’s got to be tough, and they certainly are.

**Not to keep talking about stores, but they pick their tomatoes green, and gas them with ethylene to turn them red.

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