[ad_1]
[ad_2]
Niki Jabbour
Source link
Home & Garden | ReportWire publishes the latest breaking U.S. and world news, trending topics and developing stories from around globe.
[ad_1]
Happy Monday, GPODers!
Fall is in full swing, but we’re lucky at Garden Photo of the Day to enjoy summer longer than most. Sometimes that means visiting gardens in the Southern Hemisphere, but usually we’re slipping back to summer days via photos of our contributors’ gardens when they’re at their peak. Today is one of those days, as we dive into the colorful landscape of Lee from the Mohawk Valley in New York State. Lee is a frequent contributor, who always has beautiful photos and some wise words to share (check out some previous submissions here: Lily Pre-Bloom in the Mohawk Valley, Lee’s Spring Garden in the Mohawk Valley, There Is Always Room for More, Flower Close-Ups from Lee’s Garden, Anticipating the Colors of Summer, and more). Today (and tomorrow) we’ll be enjoying his outstanding collection of true lilies and daylilies as he reminisces on the peak season and looks ahead to next year.
Well, I do believe that summer is over, seeing that it’s now November 1. With that said, I’m going to drag us back into the warm summer for a few minutes. I hope that people won’t get too upset about leaving the wet and cold for a bit.
Even though I have a sizable property, I “labor” in thinking about what is next. Now in my seventh decade, after gardening for decades and decades, I think my additional plantings and extra flair items are starting to wane—not in spirit—just in actual additions. I’m dropping in five new lily bulbs soon, and that will be it for newbies next spring. I now will be counting much more on all of my previous seasons’ plantings to provide me with my spring and summer energy, color, and enjoyment. Not the worst thing in the world, I guess. . . .
It’s not quite a sad point, but certainly one that shows how time has its effect on what we do, how we do it, and how much. Maybe my melancholy is due to the cooling temps and the change in daylight, and with the knowledge of winter on the threshold. Anyone else in their seventh decade get feelings like this? Enough said.
As always, I hope you and all of the great gardeners and readers out there find some enjoyment in these photos, and we WILL be back in the spring . Who knows, I’ll probably get bored and put together a submission during the dark days of winter. Yeah, I see that happening. . . .
Peace to all—have a great holiday season, and enjoy the color I’ve provided for the ol’ eyes.
We were blessed with a visit from a few deer in our backyard! We are quite a ways from the park where they came from (where I continually release possums and skunks—seven thus far this year), and it was quite a surprise to see this within the village. The photo may be a bit blurry, but it’s worthy of posting—especially when one of the two deer seemed to like a tall lily to munch on (he’s hiding behind Rose and Fang).
It’s easy to see why so much wildlife is drawn to Lee’s garden; it looks like it’s absolutely filled with candy! ‘Always Afternoon’ daylily (Hemerocallis ‘Always Afternoon’, Zones 3–9) is a tempting treat with its berry-colored flowers.
During peak bloom, Lee’s beds and borders are lush tapestries of diverse foliage and countless flowers that all mix and mingle together. Within this frenzy of flowers, bold lilies act like anchors throughout his designs. Even with so much to take in behind, this Rainbow Rhythm® ‘Star of the North’ daylily (Hemerocallis ‘Star of the North’, Zones 3–9) pulls attention.
A mix of pink lilies and coneflowers makes this bright white ‘Casa Blanca’ lily (Lilium ‘Casa Blanca’, Zones 5–8) stand out from the crowd.
True lilies and daylilies are easy to get addicted to, as they come in such a wide range of colors and forms. This buttery yellow daylily looks sublime all by itself, shining among a sea of green.
Another great example of the meadow-like effect that Lee creates through his dense plantings: A peachy pink lily, potentially the cultivar ‘Morpho Pink’ (Lilium ‘Morpho Pink’, Zones 3–8) is the perfect bridge between purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea, Zones 3–9) and black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta, Zones 3–9).
We’ve seen flowers mixing and mingling, but this pairing takes that to the next level. A vibrant pink lily, maybe the cultivar ‘Robina’ (Lilium ‘Robina’, Zones 4–9), is acting as support for a white morning glory (Ipomoea tricolor, annual) growing up its stem and around its larger blooms. Lee has created a living bouquet in his garden!
As I alluded to at the beginning of this post, Lee shared so many spectacular photos of his summer garden that we will be returning tomorrow to see more of his amazing lilies and their companions. Keep an eye on your inbox so you don’t miss Part 2 of this beautiful submission.
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening!
Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here
Fine Gardening Recommended Products
Gilmore Rubber Hose Washer 10pk
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
– Live red rubber construction, 3/4in. washers
– Clip of 10
Ho-Mi Digger – Korean Triangle Blade
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Versatile Tool: The Easy Digger Korean Triangle Blade Ho Mi Ho-mi is a versatile gardening tool designed for leveling and digging in home and garden settings. Efficient Design: Its unique triangular blade shape allows for easy soil penetration and efficient leveling of garden beds or landscaping areas. Durable Construction: Crafted with sturdy materials, this tool ensures long-lasting performance and reliability.
Ergonomic Handle: The comfortable handle provides a secure grip, reducing hand fatigue during extended use. Compact Size: Its compact design makes it easy to maneuver in tight spaces and store when not in use.
Nelson Multi-Pattern Stationary Sprinkler
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
– 8 Pre-Set Watering Patterns
– Impact-resistant, plastic base
– Soft grip on multi-pattern head
[ad_2]
GPOD Contributor
Source link
[ad_1]
During dormancy, usually in summer and fall, you’ll find that you only need to water about once a month. You may want to invest in a moisture meter to guide you.
Learn more about watering succulents here.
Feed plants over the age of one year once a month during the growing season. Use a liquid houseplant food intended for succulents diluted to 50 percent.
The following species are samples of what the Haworthia genus has to offer to the indoor succulent gardener:
H. cymbiformis, commonly known as cathedral window haworthia, star window, or window, has smooth-leaved rosettes.
The striping and translucent characteristics of the rounded leaf tips are examples of “epidermal windows” that facilitate light absorption for photosynthesis.
Cathedral window plants are available via Amazon in two-inch pots.
Mature dimensions are approximately three inches tall and four inches wide.
Fairy washboard haworthia, H. limifolia, has flattened rosettes of ridged, pointed leaves.
Rosettes grow to approximately four inches tall and five inches wide.
Fairy washboard plants are available via Amazon in four-inch pots.
H. arachnoidea is known as spider-nest haworthia for its rounded mound of soft, translucent bristles. You may also find it listed as cobweb aloe or paper rose haworthia.


A unique survival feature is the contraction of the foliage to conserve water in times of extreme heat and drought that causes the rosette to close up into a ball.
Its mature height is about two inches. Rosettes may spread from five to seven inches across.
The zebra plant, Haworthiopsis attenuata, was classified as Haworthia until 2019.
Now it is Haworthiopsis, a separate genus for flora like Haworthia that have a thicker epidermis or outer leaf covering. But you’ll often still see these referred to as haworthias today nonetheless.
Although there are many other fascinating species, zebra may be the one most people associate with the word haworthia.
The features of this species include upright rosettes with white “tubercules” that allow for plant expansion and contraction during wet and dry periods.
Dimensions at maturity are about four to six inches wide and six to eight inches tall.
Zebra plants are available via Amazon in two- and four- inch starter pots and two- and four-inch clay pots.
Learn more about growing zebra plants here.
The main task is to monitor water needs.
Prolonged dehydration may lead to foliar desiccation, browning, and death.


If you underwater, a little wilting isn’t usually a problem, provided you soak the soil deeply once you detect the moisture stress.
Overwatering is likely to lead to rotting. Yellowing foliage is an indication of oversaturation.
The foliage may exhibit other signs of distress. Purple or red may be the result of exposure to direct sunlight or proximity to a grow light.


And finally, you may want to repot every three years or so. Whether your plant has outgrown its current container or not, it’s good to refresh depleted soil periodically.
There are several ways to start your own haworthia collection.
Let’s look at each.
If you have a plant, you can try to collect the tiny seeds from the pods that form after the flowers bloom.
[ad_2]
Nan Schiller
Source link
[ad_1]
What’s in a name? In the case of landscape design firm Hortulus Animae, it’s the key to what motivates its founder Jean-Marc Flack. Hortulus Animae means “Little Garden of the Soul” and was originally the title of a book of prayers printed in the late 1400s. And fittingly, the projects he designs are soulful—expansive and intimate at once, brimming with biodiversity, and profoundly beautiful. His landscapes stir the spirit.
Before starting his award-winning practice in the Hudson Valley in 2014, Jean-Marc spent more than two decades as a fashion-industry executive. “That background, along with formal studies in philosophy, psychology, and sustainable garden design at the New York Botanical Garden, continues to inform my practice—uniting art, culture, and ecology through a deeply personal lens,” he tells us.
“I approach landscape design as both an artistic and ecological practice—a dialogue between creativity, craft, and the living systems of a site,” he continues. “My work explores how beauty, color, line, and form can exist in conversation with horticulture, ecology, and botany to create gardens that are both expressive and alive. Each project begins with the story of a place—its architecture, topography, and ecology—and becomes a site-specific response to the client’s vision and the land’s inherent character.”
Read on to learn what moves him as a plantsman and designer—and what repels him.
Photography by Jean-Marc Flack unless otherwise noted.
As a child, I spent summers visiting my Tante Germaine’s country garden and potager in Belley, in the Auvergne–Rhône–Alpes region near Geneva. For a city kid, it was an enchanted world—my first encounter with a life shaped by plants. I didn’t yet know their names, but I was spellbound by the sensory world they created: the heady fragrance of Buddleja in the hedgerow, the rubbery squeaky foliage of Bergenia cordifolia lining the drive, the tart burst of translucent, bright red Groseille currants and the jellies they became, the crunch of pea gravel underfoot, and the cluttered greenhouse with its empty pots and tools. It was a place of pure mystery and wonder that I can still smell today.
On a day to day, the Manual of Woody Landscape Plants by Michael A. Dirr is an indispensable reference guide when choosing specific woody plants and cultivars. On a more philosophical level, I am extremely inspired by Gilles Clément, the French garden designer who wrote The Planetary Garden and coined such powerful concepts as the “Garden in Motion,” the “Planetary Garden,” and the “Tertiary Landscape” that have informed my approach to landscape design. I feel it is crucial for us now to rethink our relationship to the land and celebrate biodiversity, plant agency, and connectivity as directives to design landscapes that minimize disturbance and support wildlife.
@Roy_diblik_—a consummate native plantsman, designer, and ecologist, and constant source of inspiration.

Mindfully controlled chaos.
I’m captivated by Calycanthus ‘Aphrodite,’ or sweetshrub—it’s a true sensory delight. Its deep red, magnolia-like flowers, showy but never garish, bloom from late spring into early summer. Every part of the plant is fragrant: the blooms smell uncannily of strawberries, while the bark, leaves, and seed pods release a spicy scent when crushed. A hybrid by Dr. Tom Ranney of the University of North Carolina, it combines eastern and western sweetshrub species and still teems with pollinator life—from butterflies to beetles.
I try not to be dogmatic about plants, but a few still make me wince. Forsythia’s blinding yellow—often paired with equally brash Narcissi—feels more assault than spring awakening. And burning bush (Euonymus alatus), with its invasive habit and electric-red fall color, isn’t far behind. There’s enough true drama in nature without the neon.
[ad_2]
[ad_1]

TIME FOR A LESSON in winter sowing—sowing seeds in fall and early winter outside in a protected spot, a sort of easy DIY home nursery for making more plants. What we’ll learn to propagate that way in this reprise edition from the A Way to Garden podcast archive are specifically seeds of native plants, both meadow perennials like asters and Joe-Pye weed, and also various shrubs and even trees.
Our guide is Heather McCargo, who founded the nonprofit Wild Seed Project in Maine in 2014 and has been growing natives from seed for nearly 40 years. Native plants’ wild populations have shrunk alarmingly in that time. The mission of Heather’s Wild Seed Project is to inspire and teach more of us to grow natives and use them to repopulate the landscape, whether in our home gardens or maybe a community project like a park or school or beyond. Today she’ll show us how. (Wild Seed Project how-to artwork, above, by Jada Fitch.)
Read along as you listen to the Sept. 20, 2021 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

winter sowing of natives, with heather mccargo
Margaret Roach: So first, some background: Wild Seed Project, I think it’s a membership organization. It’s nonprofit, and the word “rewilding” comes up a lot on your website, wildseedproject dot net. Explain it and that term to us just briefly.
Heather McCargo: O.K. Well, what most people don’t realize is that all of our developed landscapes are severely depleted in natural processes—from that they’re lacking in the original native plants, and in our planted landscapes most of the plants in gardens now are clones.
So they don’t have the wild traits, and they don’t reproduce because they’re often cultivars, which are selections sometimes chosen because they have particular traits that humans like, like dwarfism or mutated flowers that have bigger or multiple petals. Or they might be double forms, where they have no reproductive organs at all.
And so we’ve lost those wild processes, and rewilding is the movement to restore both nature and the natural wild processes that plants, and all the creatures that are dependent on them, need.
And so the word actually first appeared in the eighties in the conservation movement, and was focused on restoring the large carnivores. Like the case in Yellowstone is very famous because when they brought the wolves back that had been extinct, the wild landscape quickly became much more diverse and healthy, with a lot more life and native plants.
Margaret: Right.
Heather: But at Wild Seed Project, we’re trying to get people to restore this even in our own gardens and backyards. And so having the seed, the genetically diverse seed of our local native plants, is a crucial part to that movement. I’ve been a propagator my whole adult life, and there’s a lot of myths and confusion about the ability to sow, grow plants from seeds. Some of the difficult-to-propagate wildflowers are what cause that, but we have lots of great native plants that are easy to grow from seeds.
Margaret: So we’ll talk about some of those. A lot of people ask me about winter sowing. You know, it’s kind of become a thing. And a lot of plants, winter sow themselves [laughter], kind of—the seed falls in fall or winter onto the ground. I know when we recently did—and thank you for helping me with it—a “New York Times” garden column together about sowing native wild meadow perennials, and so forth, sowing their seed. And you pointed out to me that between mice and birds and who knows what a lot of seed that falls on the ground naturally doesn’t necessarily turn into a plant.
But we can control that a little better with some of our wild-type plants and their seeds and propagate a lot more per plant I think, right? We can get a lot better ratio than if the mice and the birds are eating it by following some of your winter sowing techniques. So what’s the basic idea? Whatever plant we’re working with, what’s the basic setup that I would need to do this, because I don’t just like throw them out in the middle of my backyard or anything.
Heather: Yes. Well, your garden has so many weed seeds. So that’s why I like to get people to sow the plants in pots or flats, or you could make a growing bed. So you need a pot, anywhere from 4 inches to 8 inches across. It can be plastic, it can be clay. You shouldn’t use like a peat pot or one of the biodegradable ones, because these seedlings grow too slowly. They will degrade before. So you need the pot.
You need good organic, compost-based potting soil. And I like the compost in the potting soil because it’s filled with different microorganisms. It’s not sterile. You need a label. And I like to use plastic or some sort of permanent label, and mark it with a pencil, not a pen, most of the magic-marker pens don’t last. And then you need coarse sand to cover the seeds with.
The ideal time to do this is around the holidays, the Christmas-New Year holiday. Not before November—you really need to wait till the cool weather sets in and with the climate change, it keeps getting warmer and warmer in the fall. So you want to wait till all your other outdoor chores are done, and then you can do it inside.
So you fill the pot with potting soil, press it down firmly. You can use the bottom of another pot to press it inside. And then you sow the seeds. And depending on the species depends how much you will cover those seeds.
And this is where the coarse sand comes in. It’s a much better covering for seeds than more potting soil. And the reason is seeds need some light to germinate. When you rototill your garden or dig in your garden, you bring up all these deep seeds from under the soil and that’s why they all germinate. So covering with sand still lets light in and also its coarse, sharp texture helps keep the seeds from splashing out in the rain and prevents damping off. It really is a superior covering.
And a really important thing is to cover each seed the correct depth. A general rule of thumb is to cover the seeds to the depth of the thickness of the seed. So if it was an acorn, you’d bury them an inch. If it was a sunflower seed, you’d do about a quarter of an inch. And if it was a sesame seed, you do an eighth of an inch. And if it’s a teeny dust like seed, you barely cover them at all.
Margaret: O.K. So when we did, as I said, the “New York Times” garden column, we really focused on the meadow perennials. And so just for inspiration so that people, because they have to collect the seed this fall, even though as you said, it’s more as we get toward the holiday period and so forth. And I think at Wild Seed Project, you do kind of a New Year’s sowing, almost a celebratory “looking forward to the future” kind of sowing.
But we would collect the seed as it ripens from perennials. And you mentioned so many in the article, like Penstemon, bee balms, asters, milkweeds. So many others. Maybe you want to mention a few others. Echinacea. Rudbeckia. I have a whole list of them. It was amazing.
[Heather’s recommended meadow perennial list for winter sowing: Penstemon, bee balms (Monarda), asters, and milkweeds (butterfly weed, Asclepias tuberosa, and swamp milkweed, A. incarnata), blue flag iris (Iris versicolor), cardinal flower and blue lobelia (Lobelia cardinalis and L. siphilitica), blue vervain (Verbena hastata), goldenrods (Solidago), ironweed (Vernonia), Echinacea, Rudbeckia, Liatris and Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium purpureum).]
Heather: Yes. And so the woody plants that are still being collected now are the native dogwoods and viburnums. They have a fleshy seed that’s designed be eaten by a bird. You have to clean that flesh off. Pretend you’re a bird. Remove it and then sow them right away. Those seeds don’t like to dry out.
Margaret: O.K. Now with the perennials—I’m going to interrupt for a second. With the perennials, and there were lots of others, like Lobelia and ironweeds and Joe Pye and goldenrods, of course, and cardinal flour. With those, you collect them as they ripen, and I believe you told me I should put them in paper bags properly labeled and let them sit about a month in a cool place to kind of finish ripening before the late-fall sowing.
Heather: Yes. So that’s one thing. These seeds that need to dry out, which is a lot of the fall ones—they need to air-dry for a little while before sowing. In the wild, they’d just be sitting on the stalk of the plant or maybe blowing around. They wouldn’t be down in the wet soil right away.
So yes, that’s important, which is again why you can collect the different species throughout the fall and then hold on to them, and then prepare. While you’re waiting to do your sowing, go get those supplies you need, because it takes more time to go get supplies than it does to do the actual seed-sowing [laughter], say, between the Christmas and New Year holiday.
Margaret: O.K. So the shrubs that you were going to mention, we pretend we’re a bird or a mouse.
Heather: Yeah.
Margaret: So you chew off the flesh [laughter].
Heather: Yes. So many of them like the viburnums and dogwoods, they’re an example of those fruits you shouldn’t let dry out. Most of the other ones—bayberry, wild rose, Aronia, the yellow bush honeysuckles (the Diervilla species), buttonbush—those seeds, like with the wild rose that comes in a rose hip, you can actually let those dry and then break them apart with your thumb and get the seed out. But you can sow those seeds dry.
Birches, you can collect those seeds. They disperse off a tree all through the fall and winter. They can be stored dry. Some of the ones that are better off not storing dry are witch hazel, which explode out of their pod usually sometime in October and November. They’re little hard seeds. Those I like to sow right away.
Or then the other common woody plants that people know are the oaks and maples. And those also have seeds that cannot dry out.
Margaret: Now on wildseedproject dot net—just because we can’t cover everything obviously out loud in this short segment. You have great, very comprehensive, detailed explanations of how to do this for each one and which seeds fit into which category, and can and can’t dry out, and so on and so forth. It’s a great reference site. You have a blog, and you have some publications, and lots of good stuff for people who want to dig even deeper into the particulars for one species or another.
Heather: Yes. And so again, especially for beginners to change your thinking and think of cold weather, like I said, the holidays is a great time. That’s the easiest time to sow most of the native species. And you need to be a little more knowledgeable to notice the seed ripening and harvesting. So if that’s over your head, Wild Seed Project sells seeds. And we also have a source on our website of other great native nurseries where you can get native seeds.
But yes, this is a thing, a new way of gardening where you’re restoring the native plants and you’re sowing them in the late fall, early winter.
And you don’t have to worry does that species need one month of cold? Does it need three months or five months of cold? If you sow them outdoors in the late fall, they’ll all get that winter that they need. And then they will germinate starting in the spring.
And some species will germinate as early as March, even when it’s still regularly dipping below freezing. Other species will wait till warmer weather around May and June. So it’s very variable and it’s really interesting and fun to watch. But the important thing for those seeds is that they got to spend their winter outside.
Margaret: Right. So let’s visualize—let’s paint a word picture [laughter] of this little nursery that we’re creating. So we talked about some of the equipment, so to speak. But one of the things that really appealed to me that I saw in the pictures on your site and we talked about for the Times article. It seems to make it more doable and more controlled, and like it’s not going to go astray with some devious animal who’s going to want to disturb all the pots, is to kind of put it inside a frame, almost like a raised-bed frame, or just a simple wooden four pieces of wood kind of thing.
Because we want to cover it with hardware cloth, quarter- or half-inch mesh. We really want to cover it, and weight that down with bricks. Like really, really protect it from the would-be nibblers. Right?
Heather: Yes.
Margaret: So let’s talk a little bit more about it. I mean I feel like a frame would be a great thing, and keep it more organized [laughter].
Heather: Yes. So if you’re handy you can make yourself a wooden frame and then get the little hardware cloth to put on top and you can weight it down with bricks, or you can make a real lid. You can also make a frame with cinder blocks. Let’s say you’re not handy with a hammer and nails, you can just do cinder blocks—make a box and put the hardware cloth above. Doesn’t even hurt to put it underneath.
The important thing about that frame that’s different if you are an experienced vegetable grower, is you want it in the shade for the germinating seedlings.
Margaret: Good point.
Heather: And the reason is come spring, the sun can get hot and strong. And if you leave the house and go to work every day, you don’t want those flats, un-germinated flats, to dry out. Because germination is a process; it’s an event. Once it starts, you can’t stop it. So once that seed starts to germinate, you don’t want it to dry out. That will kill it. And so have those un-germinated pots in the shade.
Now if you were growing something like butterfly milkweed, which is a plant that needs to grow in a sunny, dry site, once those pots have germinated, you want to find a sunny spot to put them in. But for the un-germinated flats, them being in the shade is the best way to get the highest germination rate, because then they won’t have those swings of moisture level and most or all of the seeds will germinate.
And so in those little pots you can sow, for instance, a package from our Wild Seed Project will have anywhere from 40 to 100 seeds in that package. You can sow that whole package in the little pot and cover it with sand.
Native seeds are like teenagers. They like to grow closely together. I could swear they germinate better when you have them all together.
Margaret: Oh!
Heather: And then everybody’s really tempted once they do germinate to quickly divide them up, again, especially people who are experienced vegetable growers. These are not annuals. They’re perennials, whether they’re herbaceous perennials or woody shrubs, so they have a slower timetable and they don’t like to be disturbed. So you can take that whole cluster of seedlings and put it in a much bigger pot to grow on through the summer. You know, you can divide them up earlier, but you will disturb the roots so you’ll set their growth back.
Margaret: Right. Sure.
Heather: You see, that’s the advantage of taking the whole clump of seedlings and just putting them in a much bigger pot and keeping them in your little nursery area all summer. It’s not very hard to water a couple pots. And if you have them in a big pot, they won’t dry out all the time, versus planting them out in your garden in June or July.
Unless you’re the most attentive person in the world, you’re going to either lose them to the weeds, or other plants grow in there, because they’re smaller.
Margaret: Yes. Definitely. And people might be thinking like, wait a minute, they’re out in the open all winter long, whatever. But that’s what breaks through the seed coat. That’s what does the job that nature does, right? It gets them to germinate and they each, as you said before, they germinate in their own time, depending on the species and kind of how it’s constructed and its own timeline. It responds to those freezes and thaws and so forth, and then boom, there it goes.
And then maybe what you said, we could transplant the entire clump into a larger pot, grow it on, and then maybe around the next fall, when it’s cooler and moisture again in the garden, would we plant those—maybe divide those up a little more and plant them around the garden? Is that when they’re ready?
Heather: Yes. Now is a great time to do it. And no matter what the winter weather throws at these pots of seedlings, it can be 40 degrees, and then it can dip down to 10 degrees that night, and then get a foot of snow, and then pouring rain. That freeze and thaw, these seeds don’t mind that. They like it.
They actually need it to break up their heavy seed coat. And it’s what’s really different about our native plants. They haven’t been domesticated, which one of the things of domestication is it tends to thin the seed coats. That’s why your lettuce seedlings will all germinate quickly within a week. And if they haven’t, they’re dead. That time of cultivation over the centuries has thinned the seed coats so they germinate really quickly. But wild plants don’t have that, and they need it.
You don’t have to worry about the weather. I’ve had pots of seedlings germinate—I’ve had trumpet honeysuckle germinate in late January in one of those weird winter thaws. And you know what? I just left them and then it got cold many times and snowed and rained, and they were still fine come spring.
And probably in the wild, those seeds germinate kind of under their sort of woodland-edge plant, under the litter. And they’ve learned to germinate in the cool, cold weather of even winter, just the seed, will hang out until it’s time to put on more growth.
Margaret: I want to talk about the setup for our DIY nursery, whatever we’re sowing. We’re going to protect everything, and we’re going to top-dress it with sand, and so on. Do we sow the shrubs and the tree seeds as thickly as you were describing with the meadow seeds, or is there different spacing for those?
Heather: With the shrubs? Yes. I sow them thickly, too. And obviously I do divide, but same thing. You can grow them, the bayberry, wild rose, Aronia you can grow them on as a clump and then wait and divide them in September.
Not the trees…well, depends on the species. I sow, for instance, my birch and maple trees, also maybe a little less close, maybe a half an inch apart. And I also wait to divide them up. They just do better if you let them grow together.
And it’s what often happens in the wild, too. Not all of them then would make it to an adult, but all your pot of seedlings can by separating them out.
A commercial nursery would sooner in the process divide up the seedlings to grow on into the pots. But as a home gardener, leaving them together as a clump, and just keep moving them to bigger pots, they will grow faster because you won’t have the root disturbance—they don’t like that.
Margaret: Yeah. So we should probably in the last minute or two, we should disclaim that we are encouraging people to use wild-type seat as close to the way nature made it as possible. Because of the things you talked about at the beginning, that some of the cultivated varieties have been tinkered with so much that they may even be sterile or not so good at being reproduced this way.
But we’re not saying to run around in wild places and take seed, because that’s normally against the law to go on other people’s property. Right? I mean, it needs to be ethically gathered seed, with permission and so forth, or purchased as you say. Correct?
Heather: Yes. And I consider seed collecting farther down the journey of seed sowing. Start sowing this year, unless you have something right out your back door in your yard, or in a friend’s yard. Just start.
To a collect wild seed you need to properly identify it when it’s in bloom. Most of these plants aren’t in bloom anymore, except for the asters and goldenrod. So that’s a little farther down the journey, but you can get going right away and then you can watch the whole life cycle of the plants.
And the baby seedlings can be quite cute [laughter]. It’s fun to see what they look like. And some look like exactly like just miniature versions of the same leaves, and others have juvenile leaves that are quite different. So it’s a really different way to interact with plants, and participate in a different part of the life cycle that most people don’t get to do anymore, because they just think you buy plants all the time.
Margaret: Right. Right. And I think that’s a really important point to get to recognize the juvenile stage, the seedling stage, of our important native plants. Because, oops, so many times I bet we’ve weeded some of them out, when in fact we could have transplanted them to somewhere where they could mature and thrive, because we didn’t know it was them.
Heather: Yes, absolutely.
Margaret: Yeah. Well, Heather, I’m so excited about your work. And like I said, I’ve already learned so much on the website, wildseedproject dot net. I mean you have, for instance, this publication, “Native Trees for Northeast Landscapes: a Wild Seed Project Guide.” Maybe we’ll talk about that on a subsequent segment we’ll do someday. But lots of, again, really strong resources and inspiration for people who want to learn. And as you say, maybe starting by just buying some seed from you or one of your recommended suppliers and doing it this late fall-early winter, and learn along the way from your website. So thank you so much for making time today. And now get back to your seed collecting [laughter].
Heather: I will. And thank you so much for this opportunity, Margaret.

MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 11th year in March 2020. In 2016, the show won three silver medals for excellence from the Garden Writers Association. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Sept. 20, 2021 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
[ad_2]
margaret
Source link
[ad_1]
These are the best low light indoor plants! If you need to brighten up a dark corner or add a little life to your basement, one of these gorgeous low light plants are sure to do the trick. Here’s which plants thrive without rays, and how to care for them.
Adding plants to the house is my favorite way to bring a little lift to any room. Having plants around makes everything feel lighter, brighter, and more alive. Whether you are new plant parents or seasoned plant owners, houseplants add color and texture to a room, purify the air, and just look nice.
In this post, we will cover:


But what about when you have lighting conditions that are less than ideal? Often people think you can only have house plants in bright spaces that receive plenty of nutrients from the sun. Thankfully, that isn’t always the case.
A handful of tropical, broad-leaf plants are primed for low-light conditions through basic biology: large leaves that soak up as much light as possible. Some also have a waxy outer layer that helps to retain moisture and makes them double-duty crowd-pleasers and low-maintenance indoor plants as well.
I often get asked about the care of indoor plants that prefer low light, and my answer is always the same: it depends on the type of plant.
That being said, it is generally true that low light plants don’t require much water, so caring for them can be as simple as planting them in well-drained soil and watering on a monthly basis.
I originally wrote this post years ago, but I wanted to update this to include a bit of info about a fantastic resource for growing plants in the darker areas of your home. Grow in the Dark is written by the houseplant guru, Lisa Eldfred Steinbkopf.
I had the chance to meet Lisa at an event in Dallas last year after being a long time fan of her as a houseplant expert. She has another book that I refer to all the time for houseplant care, Houseplants: The Complete Guide to Choosing, Growing, and Caring for Indoor Plants.
If you’re interested in diving deep into the fascinating world of low light plants, I highly recommend grabbing a copy of Grow in the Dark. I’m including some quotes and info from Lisa throughout this post.
Here are a few of my favorite low-light houseplants. I hope they bring as much cheer to your home as they have to mine!
Aglaonema has striking variegated leaves in shades of red, pink, yellow, and green. Pop this plant in a space that needs some color and you won’t have any need for flowers.
Chinese evergreens thrive in low-light areas and they are also very drought tolerant, so if you forget to water it for a while there will be no harm done. Perfect for people new to houseplants or those who consider themselves “black thumb gardeners.”
When choosing a Chinese evergreen, pay close attention to the color of the plant, says Steinbkopf. “The older hybrids, mostly green colored, can take low light and grow well. The newer colorful hybrids need medium light and do well in an east or west window. If placed in low light, they will lose their bright coloration.” – Grow in the Dark


Spider plants love low light and do not require much attention other than occasional watering when the soil feels dry. They send out long spindly green foliage and small white flowers that will cascade down the edge of their container, making them a great choice for an indoor hanging basket.


These low-maintenance houseplants look like small tropical palms, so they will bring a ray of sunshine to that dim, drab area you’ve been meaning to spruce up. Place it somewhere that doesn’t get any direct sunlight and water occasionally, being careful not to overwater. Here’s a bit more info about watering this plant:
“It is important to water evenly over the whole potting medium to avoid rotting the corn plant’s canes. These canes can have small root systems and may need to be straightened after traveling home as well as later as they settle in. Be careful when straightening the canes not to firm the medium too much, which will compact it and force the oxygen out. As they grow, the root systems will get larger and be better able to support the canes.” – Grow in the Dark
Keep in mind that corn plant is toxic to a pet such as a cat or dog, so if you have a furry friend that likes to chew on the houseplants, skip this one.


If you want a plant that can lend itself to a hanging basket in a low-light spot, this one’s for you! Plant it in a basket or up on a pedestal and watch the variegated green vines trail down in an elegant display.


Marantha leuconeura is a good choice if you want something with a low light indoor plant with bright foliage to add a pop of color to a drab area of the house because its leaves have variegation in rich green, purple, yellow, and red.
This houseplant needs to be kept out of direct sunlight in order for the variegated pattern on the leaves to remain vibrant. Plant it in well-draining soil and mist its leaves regularly. The leaves will point upwards at night like hands in prayer, which is where it got its common name “prayer plant.”




If you want something that blooms to bring a little color to a dark corner of your home, choose a moth orchid! You may need to stake the stems to give added support, but this plant thrives indoors.
They like low light and will bloom away happily if planted in a soil-less orchid mix, watered regularly, and given a simple humidity tray.
Snake plants are known for being difficult to kill, so they are perfect for a small windowless bathroom, stairway, or bedroom corner. Sansevieria is a type of succulent, which means it retains water in its leaves and can be easy to overwater. Pay attention and only water when the soil feels completely dry to the touch, every three weeks or so.


These pretty houseplants have lush, dark green leaves and delicate white flowers. In addition to being beautiful, they also do an exceptional job of cleaning the air and keeping it healthy for us. Peace lilies do well in dark or bright areas, so feel free to place these all over your home if you like!
These plants like to be kept moist and humid. Water regularly and mist the leaves as well to keep your peace lily happy and blooming. If you aren’t watering it enough, you will know because the leaves will droop.
Don’t worry, if you see this happening. Just give it a good drink and watch it perk back up in no time. Peace lilies take well to propagation. You can divide them and get new plants for other dark areas in your home.


Not only does this houseplant grow happily in low-light areas of the home, but the zz plant is also very low maintenance. It can be left alone with no attention at all for long periods of time, so you can go on vacation and not worry about coming home to a dead plant. Its glossy, bright green leaves add a cheerful pop of color to any dark space.
Plus, this plant is one that can propagate! Here’s what Grow in the Dark has to say:
“The unusual part of this plant is that it can grow new plants from an individual leaflet, but it takes quite a long time. Place the cut end into moist potting medium and cover with plastic or glass. This process may take many months. The plant can also be divided.”


There you have it! Go ahead and add some plants to that drab corner–you’ll be amazed at how much more welcoming it looks and how much better you feel as a result.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
[ad_2]
Stephanie Rose
Source link
[ad_1]
×
Benefits include:
[ad_2]
[ad_1]
For those of us who are fans of succulents and cacti, the only thing more enticing than a pot of plump, fleshy foliage might be a cascade of those same leaves trailing out of a hanging basket or planter.
The visual cue is clear – our cups are running over with delightful, succulent goodness.
In this guide we’re going to do a meet and greet with 35 different plants, sorting our way through vines of succulent leaves and columns of trailing cacti.


We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
For each of these selections, I’ll let you know what to expect in terms of foliage type, flowers, and size at maturity.
I’ll also provide information on any particular light or humidity needs you’ll need to know about, so you can make sure you have the growing conditions it takes to keep them happy.
Before we get started with the introductions, if you need to brush up on your succulent growing game, be sure to check out our guide!
Ready to get on a first name basis with some sensational succulent candidates? Take a quick glimpse at today’s participants:
Burro’s tail is a member of the stonecrop family (Crassulaceae) that grows plump, rounded leaves along long, pendulous strands, which look like animals’ tails.
The leaves of Sedum burrito are bluish gray and tightly clustered along the stems.


Strands usually reach one and a half feet long, but can grow longer if not disturbed.
Leaves and stems can break off easily, as with many succulents, but broken off leaves are also easily propagated.
Burro’s tail looks breathtaking in a hanging basket or trailing from a planter.
Also known as “baby burro’s tail,” “baby donkey tail,” and my favorite, “troll necklace,” it produces hot pink flowers on the ends of the stems.
Some also call this plant “donkey’s tail,” but we’ll soon meet another plant, S. morganianum, that is more often known by that name.
These two succulents are very similar, and sometimes burro’s tail is classified as a hybrid of S. morganianum. We’ll have a look at how to distinguish them a bit later.
Burro’s tail should be grown with plenty of direct sunlight.
Indoors, place it near a south- or west-facing window. Outdoors, give it full sun with some protection from direct light at midday and in the late afternoon to prevent scald.
Burro’s tail is hardy outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 11 and is considered nontoxic.
Calico kitten has a compact, mat-forming growth habit with trailing stems that can reach up to 12 inches long.
Classified as Crassula pellucida ‘Variegata,’ this variety has heart-shaped leaves that are cream colored with green centers, and margins that are pink to maroon.


Also classified as C. pellucida subsp. marginalis , bunches of white flowers form at the ends of succulent stems.
Trailing from a planter or spilling from a hanging basket, calico kitten will be a delight.
When caring for this species indoors, bright indirect light is best, and some direct sun is fine as well.
For outdoor specimens, calico kitten can be grown in full sun to part shade and can live outdoors year round in Zones 9 to 11.
Calico kitten is tolerant of high humidity.
If you have another type of kitten or cat in your home, one that likes to purr, keep this plant out of reach as it is potentially toxic, like other members of the Crassula genus.
You can find calico kitten in two- or four-inch pots from the Succulents Box Store via Amazon.
Learn more about growing Crassula here.
One of the floral staples of the winter holiday season, Christmas cactus is known for its showy, bright winter blooms.
Various Schlumbergera species may be referred to as “Thanksgiving cacti,” “Easter cacti,” or “Christmas cacti,” depending on their different bloom times.
And while the members of this genus are known broadly as “holiday cacti,” they are often all lumped together as “Christmas cacti.”
Christmas cacti have flat, leafless, succulent, segmented stems called cladodes that produce flowers in winter, with blooms in shades of red, pink, purple, yellow, orange, or white.


They spread about two feet but some older specimens can grow larger.
Since the long stems trail down, they work perfectly in hanging baskets.
Caring for the nontoxic Christmas cactus is pretty easy. For starters, make sure to provide it with bright, indirect light when grown indoors.
Outdoors, hang these cacti in part to full shade.
For those in warmer climates, Christmas cactus can spend its time outdoors year round in Zones 10 to 12.
You can read more in our complete guide to growing Christmas cactus.
Cliff cotyledon is a gorgeous succulent that has fuzzy, egg-shaped leaves that are light grayish-green in color, often sporting reddish tips and leaf margins.
Also known as “little cliff bells,” Cotyledon pendens bears fabulously showy, pink to red bell-shaped flowers that hang down from the ends of its stems.


This species is closely related to another succulent you may have heard of called “bear’s paw.”
Cliff cotyledons are small, mat-forming shrubs with drooping stems, reaching about two feet long at maturity.
This plant is gorgeous with its stems and bell-shaped flowers flowing from a hanging basket or trailing from a planter.
Outdoors in Zones 10 and 11, cliff cotyledon can grow in full sun to part shade. Indoors it will thrive in indirect bright light, though direct sun is fine too.
Let the soil dry out between waterings, and use the bottom watering method.
Since other species of the same genus are toxic, this species may not be safe for homes with small children or pets.
Named for its resemblance to certain types of coral, coral cactus (Rhipsalis cereuscula) is an epiphyte that has slender, branching stems.
Members of the Rhipsalis genus are also known as “mistletoe cacti,” named for the whitish fruits that develop on the plants, resembling mistletoe berries.
Also known as “rice cactus,” this species bears creamy white flowers at the end of cylindrical, pale green jointed stems that arch as they grow longer.


The plants have a shrubby growth habit, growing up to two feet tall and wide, with small, bristle-like spines.
Coral cactus is an easy-care houseplant that is quite tolerant of neglect and will trail beautifully from a hanging basket.
This species needs a bit more soil moisture than its desert relatives – use an orchid potting medium rather than a pre-mixed medium formulated for cacti.
It also likes high humidity and medium to bright, indirect light.
This species may be nontoxic, and is hardy in Zone 10.
Dancing bones (Hatiora salicornioides) is another branching, jointed cactus with a bushy growth habit.
The arching or pendant stems are light green and bear small, bell-shaped flowers in orange to yellow.


Also called “drunkard’s dream,” “spice cactus,” and “bottle cactus,” the spineless stems of this epiphytic or lithophytic species can grow up to two feet long, making it a perfect selection for a hanging basket.
Dancing bones will thrive indoors with indirect, bright light. Outdoors in Zones 9b to 11, locate it in part shade.
Other members of the Hatiora genus are toxic, so it would be wise to keep this species out of reach of kids and pets.
Donkey’s tail is a succulent that produces long stems covered with fleshy, crescent-shaped, light green to bluish-gray leaves.
Classified as Sedum morganianum, donkey’s tail is similar to burro’s tail, but its leaves are pointy rather than rounded, and they are more spaced out along their stems than those of burro’s tail.


Despite their differences, some sources consider burro’s tail to be a hybrid of S. morganianum rather than a separate species.
Also sometimes called “horse’s tail” or “lamb’s tail,” donkey’s tail produces trailing, succulent stems that can grow up to four feet long, with clusters of small, pink to red flowers appearing at the ends of stems.
Donkey’s tail is considered nontoxic and will thrive as a houseplant with indirect, bright light, although some direct sun is fine too.
For those who’d like to grow this one outdoors, donkey’s tail can be grown in full sun to partial shade in Zones 10b to 11a.
Indoors or out, as temperatures rise, provide less exposure to direct sunlight.
Read more on how to grow and care for donkey’s tail here.
Elephant bush is a bushy, trailing succulent with small, fleshy leaves.
Portulacaria afra bears rounded, medium to light green foliage on purplish-red stems and produces clusters of tiny, pink flowers.


Elephant bush looks similar to the widely known houseplant, jade (Crassula ovata), but it is not related to this member of the Crassula genus.
It is also known by the common names “dwarf jade,” “miniature jade” or “small leaf jade.”
In hanging baskets, elephant bush will create a lovely display of bushy, trailing foliage.
As a houseplant, elephant bush will thrive with direct sun, bright indirect light, or medium indirect light.
Outdoors, grow it in full sun to partial shade, and bring it in for the winter unless you live in Zones 9b to 11.
Also known as “elephant food,” “elephant plant,” and “porkbush,” this plant is nontoxic, making it a safer succulent alternative to crassula jade for households with pets or small kids.
Find tips on growing elephant bush here.
Fishbone cactus (Disocactus anguliger) is an epiphytic plant that has strap-shaped, flattened, and leafless stems that look like zigzags.
These jungle cacti are known for their large, showy, white and yellow flowers.


Formerly classified as Epiphyllum anguliger, this species is also known as “zigzag” or “rickrack cactus” for its ribbon-shaped leaves.
Small specimens start with upright stems, but as they grow longer, stems eventually take on a pendant growth habit with each potentially growing several feet long, making fishbone cactus a first-rate option for hanging baskets.
As a houseplant, fishbone cactus will thrive with medium to bright, indirect light – avoid direct sun.
Outdoors, place this species in part shade – it can overwinter outdoors in Zones 10b to 11b.
This cactus is considered nontoxic. In fact, it produces edible fruit similar to the pitaya, the fruit of one of its close relatives.
There are at least two very similar-looking cacti species that go by the common name “fishbone cactus.”
The other fishbone cactus is botanically classified as Selenicereus anthonyanus. These two species can be very difficult to tell apart, but unfortunately, their care needs differ.
“Hens and chicks” is a common name given to many members of the Crassulaceae family, but one of the most well-known species to take this name is Sempervivum tectorum, also known as the common houseleek.
S. tectorum grows in lovely rosettes with pale green or greenish-gray leaves that often have reddish-purple tips.


Flower stalks rise up from the rosettes, producing reddish-purple blooms.
This mat-forming succulent produces small offsets (the “chicks”) from a central rosette (the “hen”).
Offsets can spill over the sides of pots or the edges of hanging baskets, creating a delightful trailing effect.
This succulent prefers full sun and it can be cultivated outdoors in Zones 3 to 8 if adequate light is available.
S. tectorum is considered nontoxic, making it safe for households with pets and small kids, as well as for a children’s garden.
This species won the RHS Award of Garden Merit in 1993.
Learn more about growing these cute succulents in our guide to growing hens and chicks.
Many different succulent plants go by the common name “ice plant” but most of these are grown more often as garden annuals or perennials rather than houseplants.
The ice plant we’re recommending here is Delosperma lehmannii and you won’t find it in the average flower bed.


A member of the Aizoaceae or fig marigold family which includes lithops, D. lehmannii has chunky, wedge-shaped leaves that are green to bluish-gray, with bright yellow blooms that resemble strawflowers.
Ice plant has sprawling, succulent stems with a spreading growth habit, reaching eight inches tall and 12 inches wide.
Grown in a hanging basket, the chunky stems will create a funky visual vibe.
This succulent is easy to care for and is a moderately fast grower. It will thrive in direct sunlight to bright, indirect light in Zones 9 to 11.
Most sources consider this plant to be nontoxic like other members of the fig marigold family.
Learn more about growing ice plant here.
Jade necklace (Crassula rupestris subsp. marnieriana) has trailing stems with leaves packed close together, giving them the appearance of chunky strands of gemstones.
This succulent is a subspecies of C. rupestris that is also sometimes called “Chinese pagoda.”
The leaves are rounded to squarish and are light green with red margins, taking on a purple hue in direct sun. Cream to pink flowers appear at the ends of stems.


The trailing, succulent stems reach six to 12 inches long and will spill nicely out of a hanging basket.
They cascade down and then rise up, creating a snakelike appearance that no doubt inspired one of the plant’s other common names, “worm plant.”
This slow-growing Crassula is easy to care for.
For indoor plants, provide bright, indirect light to a few hours of direct sun.
Outdoors, avoid too much direct sun, especially in the heat of the day, and overwinter indoors unless you are in Zones 9b to 11b.
As many species in the Crassula genus are toxic, this succulent is likely best kept out of reach of pets and small children.
Jelly bean plant is a type of succulent with small, glossy green leaves growing on stems that trail downward before turning upright.
Classified as Sedum x rubrotinctum or S. rubrotinctum, the small, rounded, bean shaped leaves will take on a pink to red tint when stressed by sun or drought.


Also known as “Christmas cheer” and “pork and beans,” this succulent bears yellow, star-shaped flowers.
The colorful clusters of foliage tumble nicely over the edges of hanging baskets.
Jelly bean plant will thrive with full sun to bright, indirect light. Bring plants indoors for the winter unless you are gardening in Zones 9a to 11a.
While many sedum species are considered nontoxic, S. rubrotinctum may cause skin irritation as well as stomach irritation if ingested.
Jelly bean plant won the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 2012.
Our guide to growing jelly bean plants has more information.
Lantern flower is quite unique among our selections.
This member of the dogbane family (Apocynaceae) has thick, fleshy, bluish-green stems, which have a trailing, climbing, and vining growth habit and can reach several feet in length.
The succulent stems of Ceropegia haygarthii feature flat, pale green leaves – and the real kicker, flowers that have to be seen to be believed.


As its common name suggests, the white or cream-speckled with burgundy flowers, may be described as looking like lanterns.
But I would suggest, perhaps it would be more apt to describe them as lanterns designed by extraterrestrials. Or rather, extraterrestrial lanterns that are secretly ray guns.
C. haygarthii has many other common names, including “wine-glass vine,” “parasol flower,” “bushman’s pipe,” and “snake creeper.”
And its latest nickname, coined here by me, “Martian ray gun flower.” (Yes, I may have watched too many episodes of “The Twilight Zone” throughout my life.)
Whatever its mind-boggling blooms look like to you, this unusual succulent species is easy to care for.
When grown as a houseplant, C. haygarthii will thrive with medium to bright indirect light.
Outdoors, it is hardy in Zones 10 to 11 and should be grown in part to full shade, with more shade for locations with the hottest climates and weather.
This succulent prefers a potting medium that is rich but well-draining, and regular watering during the growing season – avoid letting plants dry out between waterings.
A month-long, dry dormancy period is also recommended in late winter.
Medusa’s head is a type of Euphorbia, a genus which includes both gopher plants and poinsettias.
This succulent looks as you would imagine, based on its Greek myth-inspired common name – it has a central “head” with stems radiating out from it like snakes.


Classified as Euphorbia caput-medusae (syn. E. flanaganii), the succulent stems reach up to two and a half feet long and are bluish-green with scales, producing yellow flowers at their ends.
These snakelike stems are perfect for streaming out over the sides of hanging baskets.
Also known as “green crown” and “jellyfish head euphorbia,” this species can grow in full sun or bright, indirect light. Outdoors, it is hardy in Zones 9 to 12.
Euphorbias contains sap that can cause contact dermatitis so handle medusa’s head with gloves – and it may be toxic, so keep this plant out of reach of kids and curious pets.
Million hearts (Dischidia ruscifolia) is an epiphytic vine that has very small, heart-shaped, succulent leaves growing on long, trailing stems that can reach six feet in length.
Also called “million hearts vine,” like the lantern flower described above, this species is a member of the dogbane family and related to wildflowers such as milkweed.
The leaves are green to grayish-green and will take on a reddish hue when exposed to direct sun.


The inconspicuous, small white flowers grow along the vines, which trail beautifully from hanging baskets.
Million hearts is easy to grow. Provide it with bright, indirect light indoors. Outdoors, it’s best kept in part shade and can overwinter in Zones 10 to 12.
Plants should be allowed to dry out between waterings; however, this species likes higher humidity and requires more moisture than many succulents.
Use a water-retentive but airy potting medium for million hearts, such as an orchid mix whose ingredients include chunky coconut husks.
Like many other members of the dogbane family, this species is potentially toxic if ingested, so keep it out of reach of vulnerable members of your household.
The countless, tiny hearts on this plant might serve as good reminders of the many small wonders in life to be grateful for.
Mistletoe cactus is related to and has a similar growth habit as coral cactus, mentioned above, but this epiphytic species can mature to a much larger size.
Classified as Rhipsalis baccifera, this leafless cactus species has narrow, branching stems that can reach a whopping 13 feet long. Stems are green, turning red with sun and heat stress.


Flowers are creamy white in color, giving way to white fruits that look like mistletoe berries, inspiring this plant’s most often used common name.
Other nicknames include “mouse tail,” “currant cactus,” and “spaghetti cactus.”
Previously classified as R. parasitica or R. cassutha, which are now considered synonyms, bristles on this cactus species are usually only found on young specimens.
In hanging baskets or elevated pots, the long, trailing stems will make quite a visual impact.
Mistletoe cactus thrives with part shade or bright indirect light, tolerates humidity well, and is considered nontoxic.
Unless you live in Zones 9b to 11, be sure to overwinter specimens indoors.
Monkey’s tail is a cactus that has drooping, cylindrical stems covered with golden to brown spines.
Known botanically as Cleistocactus winteri subsp. colademono, the trailing stems reach about two and a half inches wide and can grow to be eight feet long or more.


As plants mature, they grow long, white, hair-like spines, giving the stems a furry appearance.
Monkey’s tail cactus, previously classified as Hildewintera colademononis, bears showy flowers that are orange to red with pink centers.
Additional common names for this plant include “golden rat tail,” “gold-spined hildewintera” and “gold-spined winterocereus.”
The trailing growth habit makes it perfect for displaying in a hanging basket.
Monkey’s tail is a fast-growing plant that does best in bright to medium, indirect light, and can overwinter outdoors in Zones 10 to 12.
Grow in a well-draining potting medium formulated for cacti, and allow it to dry out between waterings.
October daphne (Hylotelephium sieboldii) is a succulent that has a creeping, trailing growth habit.
Blue-green leaves are oval or fan shaped, turning red or purple in fall. Stems produce leaves in whorls of three, and bear clusters of pink flowers at their ends.


Formerly classified as Sedum sieboldii, October daphne reaches nine inches tall with a 24-inch spread, and is also commonly called “October stonecrop,” “Siebold’s stonecrop,” and “Siebold’s sedum.”
October daphne will spill its foliage gloriously over the rims of hanging baskets or planters.
This succulent can be grown indoors in direct sun to indirect, bright light.
Hardy in Zones 3 to 9, outdoor specimens will thrive in full sun to light shade – some shade is especially welcome in hotter climates.
When grown outdoors in the colder parts of its hardiness range, October daphne will die back during winter and produce new growth in the spring.
Learn how to grow October daphne here.
Peanut cactus (Chamaecereus silvestrii syn. Echinopsis chamaecereus) bears some resemblance to monkey’s tail, discussed above, but it’s not as hairy looking.
This mat-forming species has green, peanut-shaped stems and offsets. Stems are ribbed, and lined with short, white bristles.
As the stems mature, they trail and bear showy red-orange flowers.


Peanut cactus spreads to one and a half to two feet wide. Its more mature stems will cascade over the edges of hanging baskets.
This plant will be happiest when provided with full sun, where it will flower effortlessly. Outdoors, it is hardy in Zones 9 to 11.
Peanut cactus received the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit in 2002.
Find more tips on growing this spiny species here.
Pencil cactus is a member of the Euphorbia genus, like Medusa’s head, described above.
E. tirucalli has thin, green, branching stems, which will create a delicate, wispy mass of foliage in hanging baskets, accompanied by small, inconspicuous yellow flowers.
However, growing in the wild, this euphorbia can attain the proportions of a small tree.


Pencil cactus is known by a bevy of other common names, including “Indian tree spurge,” “milkbush,” “pencil euphorbia,” “African milk bush,” “firestick plant,” and “finger tree.”
Indoors, provide this plant with bright, indirect light and some direct sun, if possible.
Outdoors it is hardy in Zones 10 to 12, and can be grown in full sun to part shade.
However, be aware that when grown in contact with the ground, E. tirucalli will naturalize easily outdoors within this range and has the potential to become an invasive species.
Unlike its relative the poinsettia, this Euphorbia species is considered toxic and its milky sap is a strong irritant, so handle with care.
Queen of the night is a type of orchid cactus with showy flowers and long, spineless stems.
Epiphyllum oxypetalum has smooth green stems that are flat and articulated, with slightly scalloped or wavy margins.
Like Christmas cactus, a fellow member of the Cactaceae family, this plant doesn’t have true leaves.
The succulent stems can be upright but tend to sprawl as they grow longer, reaching up to 10 feet in length, and bearing large, showy, night-blooming flowers that are gold, pink, or white.


This jungle cactus species grows as an epiphyte or lithophyte and is also known by many other nicknames, including “night-blooming cereus,” “princess of the night,” and “Dutchman’s pipe cactus.”
A hanging basket will give this long-stemmed species a place to shine.
Queen of the night is easy to care for. Indoors, provide bright, indirect light – a little direct sun in the morning is okay too.
Outdoors, grow in full sun to shade, with more shade preferred as the temperatures rise. Take queen of the night indoors for the winter unless you live in Zones 10b to 12a.
E. oxypetalum is considered nontoxic and safe for households with pets and young children.
Check out our guide to orchid cacti to learn more.
Rattail cactus (Aporocactus flagelliformis) has slender stems with a trailing growth habit.
Formerly classified as Disocactus flagelliformis, the stems are pale green and have bristle-like spines that are brown to yellow.
This species bears large, showy, red to bright pink flowers.


The stems of rattail cactus can reach up to five feet long, making it an excellent candidate for a hanging basket.
With common name variations like “rat’s tail cactus” or “rat tail cactus,” this species is fast-growing and easy to care for.
Provide full sun to part sun outdoors, and indoors, offer direct light or bright indirect light. The plant should only be overwintered outdoors in USDA Hardiness Zones 9b to 11.
A. flagelliformis received the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 2002.
Ruby necklace (Crassothonna capensis) is a succulent with a creeping, mat-forming growth habit, and plump, oblong leaves dangling from trailing stems.
Reddish-purple stems are adorned with pale green to grayish-green foliage, turning ruby-colored with direct sun.


Also known as “Othonna ice plant,” “string of rubies,” “little pickles” and “string of pickles,” this species produces daisy-shaped, yellow flowers.
Plants reach four inches tall with a 12- to 16-inch spread, allowing them to trail effortlessly from a hanging basket.
Outdoors, ruby necklace grows best in full sun to part sun, while indoors it will thrive in direct light to bright indirect light.
Direct sun exposure will help develop the red color of the foliage and is needed for flowering.
This hardy succulent can grow outdoors in Zones 5 to 10.
Silver dollar vine (Xerosicyos danguyi) is a member of the cucurbit family, related to garden veggies like squash and cucumbers.
This vine climbs trees in the wild, but without support it trails beautifully, cascading over the edges of hanging baskets or planters.


Also called “dollar vine” and “penny plant,” this species has long, trailing vines with succulent, round, grayish-green leaves and greenish-yellow blooms.
The vines can reach 10 to 15 feet long, but they will take their time doing so – this plant is a slow grower.
Indoors or out, silver dollar vine needs at least four hours of direct sun per day and should be allowed to dry out between waterings.
This succulent species is considered toxic, so households with pets or young children should keep it out of reach – or better yet, choose a nontoxic alternative.
Silver dollar vine is hardy in Zones 9b to 11.
Named for its large, showy blooms, starfish flower cactus (Orbea variegata) is a succulent with a creeping, draping growth habit.
Formerly classified as Stapelia variegata and Stisseria variegata, which are now considered synonyms, this stunning species is also known as “star flower,” “toad cactus,” “toad plant,” and “toad spotted cactus.”


The leafless, succulent stems can be green or gray, turning burgundy with more sun. Flowers are star-shaped, tan-colored with maroon spots, and measure one to three inches across.
Grown on the ground, the blooms will rest horizontally on the earth, but in a planter or hanging basket, they trail down delicately.
If this plant looks too good to be true – you’re right, there’s a catch.
The incredibly gorgeous blooms are pollinated by flies – and to attract flies, they stink, giving rise to a couple other common names: “carrion cactus,” and “carrion flower.”
But we plant fanatics will put up with a lot of unpleasantries in the name of floral beauty, won’t we?
Starfish flower should be grown in bright, indirect light, and prefers low humidity. It is hardy in Zones 9b to 11a.
This member of the dogbane family is considered nontoxic.
Learn more about starfish flower here.
String of bananas (Curio radicans) is a succulent species that bears long, thin, cascading vines covered with fleshy, pale green, crescent-shaped leaves.
This species was formerly classified as Senecio radicans, and features “banana” covered vines that can reach up to three feet long and bear puffy, white flowers.


With its long, delicately trailing vines, placing C. radicans in a hanging basket is no-brainer.
Indoors, this easygoing fast-growing species requires very bright indirect light, with at least two to three hours of direct sun per day.
Outdoors, string of bananas does well in full sun, and is hardy in Zones 9 to 11.
When it comes to safety concerns, don’t let the fruity common name of this succulent trick you – this plant is not edible and is considered toxic, so keep it out of reach of curious kids and pets.
String of beads (Curio herreanus) is a creeping, low-growing succulent species with trailing or climbing stems.
Pale green to bluish-green leaves are oval, pointed, and bead-like, hanging on thin vines. Leaves are streaked with darker green or purple.


Previously classified as Senecio herreanus, Kleinia gomphophylla, or K. herreana, string of beads bears showy, fragrant white blooms.
This species is also commonly called “string of tears,” “string of watermelons,” and “green marble vine.”
Some also call it “string of pearls,” though that name usually refers to another species (Curio rowleyanus), which we’ll discuss shortly.
String of beads is truly a thing of beauty in a hanging basket, where its long, succulent vines can trail delicately. It’s also easy to care for and will grow quickly.
For indoor and outdoor plants, provide them with bright light or filtered sun, plus at least two to three hours of direct sunlight per day.
String of beads is hardy in Zones 9b to 11b, and should be kept out of reach of curious tots and fur babies – it is considered toxic.
String of buttons (Crassula perforata) is a succulent with wiry stems that look like they are stacked with button-shaped leaves.
Stems are usually unbranched and stand upright or trail down. Foliage is grayish-green to blue, with a frosted appearance, and often shows red or yellow leaf margins.
This species reaches 18 inches tall with a 24-inch spread.


Also called “pagoda plant,” “baby necklace,” or “necklace vine,” the blooms of string of buttons are inconspicuous and cream to pale yellow in color.
String of buttons has a similar appearance to jade necklace that we encountered earlier in this roundup but with less rounded edges.
This succulent makes a great choice for those who want a hanging basket selection with a chunky, quirky vibe.
String of buttons grows best in full sun to bright, indirect light or part sun and is hardy in Zones 9 to 11.
As a member of the Crassula genus, this succulent species is likely toxic and should be kept away from curious pets and children.
There’s also a variegated subspecies of string of buttons.
C. perforata subsp. kougaensis, has cream-colored leaves with a green stripe from stem to leaf tip.
String of dolphins has long, thin, trailing stems punctuated by fleshy, crescent-shaped leaves that look like cetaceans leaping out of the ocean.
Now classified as × Bacurio delphinatifolius, an intergeneric hybrid, the foliage of this succulent is pale green to medium green, and its flowers are white pom-poms.


String of dolphins is a hybrid of string of pearls (Curio rowleyanus) – one of the selections in our list, still to come – and candle plant (Baculellum articulatum).
Previously classified as Dendrophorbium peregrinum or Senecio peregrinus, it can grow four to six inches tall with trailing stems reaching six to 12 inches long.
String of dolphins looks similar to string of bananas, but the crescent-shaped leaves look like they have dorsal fins or flippers, giving them their dolphin-like appearance!
The manageable vines will work well in a small hanging basket.
Grow string of dolphins in direct sun or bright, indirect light, only let it overwinter outdoors in Zones 9b to 11, and keep this toxic plant out of reach of nibbling pets and exploring tots.
Like lantern flower and million hearts, string of hearts is another member of the dogbane family.
Classified as Ceropegia woodii or Ceropegia linearis subsp. woodii, string of hearts has heart-shaped, dark green and silver mottled leaves, with green or purple undersides – bearing a resemblance to cyclamen leaves.


Plants bear mauve-colored flowers that look like lanterns or upside down vases.
Also known as “rosary vine,” “string of arrows,” “sweetheart vine,” “hearts entangled,” “heart vine,” “collar of hearts” and “hearts on a string,” this one produces thin, climbing or trailing vines that can grow to an astounding 13 feet long!
The planter of choice for string of hearts is undoubtedly a hanging basket – and you’ll get bonus points if you have tall ceilings to let the trailing vines really show off their stuff!
For best foliage growth and flower production, provide string of hearts with bright, indirect light plus two or three hours of direct sunlight per day. This is a great selection for a south-facing window.
This species should be overwintered indoors in all regions except Zones 10 to 12.
String of hearts is considered nontoxic, and won the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit in 1993.
Find string of hearts care tips here.
String of nickels (Dischidia nummularia) is a climbing epiphyte with vines covered in small, opposite leaves about half an inch wide that are thick and almost perfectly round.
The succulent foliage is pale olive green in color with a whitish, powdery look.


Plants produce inconspicuous, small, white to yellowish-white flowers at leaf axils.
Though not an orchid, one of the common names of this species is “button orchid.”
The appearance of this succulent plant might remind you of certain relatives from the dogbane family, the hoyas.
The vines will trail nicely from a hanging basket, which should be situated in indirect, medium to bright light or dappled shade. Plants are hardy in Zones 10 to 11.
String of pearls (Curio rowleyanus) is a mat-forming, creeping succulent with long, thin stems and round, pea-shaped leaves.
Foliage is lime green to grayish-green, and flowers are white and look like puffballs.


The trailing stems can grow to prodigious lengths, but when kept as a houseplant, tend to reach just two to three feet long, making it ideal for hanging baskets.
Formerly classified as Senecio rowleyanus and Kleinia rowleyana, which are now considered synonyms, this species is sometimes called “string of beads,” though that name is most often used to refer to Curio herreanus.
String of pearls does best in indirect bright light but can handle some direct sun, is hardy in Zones 9 to 12, and is considered toxic.
There’s also a variegated variety of C. rowleyanus, known as “variegated string of pearls.”
This mat-forming, creeping succulent has long stems covered with pea-shaped leaves, each of which is different – some are green, some are green and cream swirled, and others are all cream.
Learn more in our guide to growing string of pearls.
Trailing jade (Kleinia petraea) is a creeping succulent that looks similar to the jade plant (Crassula ovata) but is not closely related.
This species has smooth, rounded leaves in bright green to maroon.


Formerly classified as Senecio jacobsenii or Notoniopsis petraea, it is also known as “weeping jade,” and produces bright orange blooms that are reminiscent of marigold flowers.
Trailing jade reaches six inches tall with a spread of up to 20 inches and will drape beautifully over the side of a planter or hanging basket.
Outdoors in Zones 10 to 11, grow this species in full sun to dappled shade. Indoors, provide bright, direct or indirect light. Less direct sunlight is preferable during the heat of summer.
Trailing jade will grow best in well-draining soils formulated for cacti, should be allowed to dry out between waterings, and must be watered less frequently during cool winter weather.
Watch chain is a type of Crassula with trailing, succulent stems covered with small overlapping leaves, making the stems look like they are covered in scales.
Known botanically as C. lycopodioides, this species also goes by the common names “club moss crassula,” “lizard’s tail,” “princess pine,” “rattail crassula,” and “zipper plant.”


Plants have a bushy growth habit with spreading stems that reach up to two feet long. The foliage is medium green, lime green, grayish green, or brownish green.
When in bloom, flowers appear all along the stems, and can be yellowish green or brown.
This plant is slow-growing so it will take some time to produce stems long enough to spill luxuriantly from a hanging basket.
This succulent will do well indoors when provided with indirect, bright light, and a little direct sun in the morning to promote blooming.
Outdoors in Zones 8b to 11b, give plants morning sun and dappled shade for the rest of the day.
As a member of the Crassula genus, this species is likely toxic and should be kept out of reach of pets and children.
Despite these abundant options, I’m guessing that by now you have zeroed in on the hanging or trailing succulent that is just right for your home florification plans! (What?! It’s a word, I promise!)


I would love to know which of these succulents or cacti made your short list – and of course, I want to hear your plans for them. Do tell!
And do you have any other personal trailing succulent favorites that didn’t make this list? Let us know in the comments section below.
If you’re like me, even after encountering all of these fantastic options, you probably haven’t maxed out your succulent love. Here are some more articles that will satisfy that craving:
[ad_2]
Kristina Hicks-Hamblin
Source link
[ad_1]
Ready to heat things up with some laughter? These family-friendly fire puns are sure to spark smiles for kids and adults alike!

Whether you’re gathered around a campfire or just looking to brighten your day, this collection of fire jokes will ignite plenty of giggles.
What do you call a woman who puts her credit car statements straight in the fire? Bernadette.
I bought a friend a fire extinguisher. He was de-lighted.
What do you call a jacket that goes up in flames? A blazer.
Someone threw my ’70s records on the fire. It was a disco inferno.
Which English king invented the fireplace? Alfred The Grate.
A bread factory caught fire the other day. Now their business is toast.
Did you hear about the French cheese factory that caught fire? All that was left was da brie.


What happens when wildfire tells you a joke? You get burned.
I searched online for something to light a fire. It said, “No matches found.”
Did you hear about the fire in the shoe factory? Many soles were lost.
I watched a documentary about people walking on fiery hot coals. It was sole destroying.
What do you call a ghoul who sits too close to the fire? A toasty ghosty. (more ghost puns here)
Did you hear about the man who set pastries on fire? He was a self-proclaimed pie-ro-maniac.
What did the firefighter say when she saw the church on fire? “Holy smoke!”
What did the flame say to his friends after he fell in love? “I found the perfect match!”
What is fire to a pyrotechnic? Just a warm-up.
Did you hear about the fire at the circus? It was intents.
Why did the match’s house party end in flames? It was lit.
What’s a flame thrower’s favourite movie? Fast and Fiery-ous.
What do you call a pirate that likes to set things on fire? An Arrrrsonist.


Fire away!
I’m on fire today
A burning question
It’s lit
Feeling burnt out
Spark a conversation
Where there’s smoke, there’s fire
The sparks really flew
Don’t play with fire
Fanning the flames
A hot topic
Simply un-fire-gettable
Feeling the burn
A heated argument


I’m stoked
Hot stuff
You set my heart on fire
Too hot to handle
Blaze a trail
All fired up
Feeling hot, hot, hot
Light my fire
Light it up
Fight fire with fire
Fire in my belly
I’ve met my match
A match made in heaven
Flame and fortune
These fire puns are lit
My grandfather always said, “Fight fire with fire.” He was a great man, but a terrible firefighter.
From campfires to cosy nights in, these fire jokes are guaranteed to keep the laughter burning bright. Share them with your family, friends, or anyone who loves a good pun – a spark of humour can light up any moment!







[ad_2]
Catherine
Source link
[ad_1]
When I first wake up in the morning, this energizing rosemary and mint soap is the perfect way to wake me up and feel ready to start the day. Whether you prefer cold process or melt-and-pour soap making, this rosemary soap recipe is for you!
The scent of rosemary is used in aromatherapy to promote focus, memory, and reduce brain fog. Peppermint is purported to help energize and refresh the mind and body. And both of them are effective natural deodorizers.
That’s why I combined these two scents for my morning shower soap (well, that and they smell awesome together). I love this energizing rosemary peppermint soap for my morning shower because it helps me to wake up, clean up, and feel ready for the day.
Let’s get into it!


You may think that your body wash is just a type of liquid soap, but actually, the reason why it is called “body wash” is that it isn’t soap at all. It is a detergent. You know, like you use on your dirty dishes.
Soap can only be called soap if it goes through the saponification process of turning fats and oils with sodium hydroxide into soap. This process makes the most nourishing, gentlest, and healthiest cleanser for your skin, which is why soap is the only thing I use to get clean. No mystery body washes in this household!
Soap retains the natural glycerin that’s created in the soap-making process. Products like beauty bars and body washes are detergents, or a recipe of ingredients that, combined together, cleanse your skin. Glycerin has been removed from these products because it is much too valuable to leave in there and make a big profit. Then a bunch of other artificial ingredients have been added to mask the missing glycerin.
That’s why I use soap in my morning shower every day. It’s the healthiest way to cleanse the body, and this particular soap wakes up my mind with its refreshing scent combination of rosemary and peppermint.


Rosemary is an excellent natural deodorizer, and peppermint’s bright scent leaves you feeling fresh. The invigorating scent and natural cleansing properties of both of these essential oils make this combination the perfect choice for your everyday morning soap.
For more information on rosemary and mint, check out these posts:
Makes 36 oz total; approximately 7 x 5 oz bars; or will fill a 2 lb soap mould
Mix temp 115°F
Oils
Lye mixture
Scent and Colour


Head over to this post on how to make cold process soap and follow the instructions there.
Add the essential oils after you’ve combined your lye water and oils and you’ve just begun to reach trace. You can also add the sage powder at this step, using the immersion blender to blend.
Once that’s all blended, you can add your spirulina powder to make a swirl. To do this, add the spirulina powder directly to the bowl on the edge. Mix it in place with a spatula or the immersion blender.
Then, use a chopstick to swirl it once or twice through the bowl. A majority of the swirling will happen as you pour the soap into the mould.
Once in the mould, let it sit wrapped in a towel and placed somewhere warm for 48 hours. After two days, you can unmould the soap. Let it cure for six weeks before use.


I like using the cold process technique for this soap, but if you want something even easier, you can use a pre-made soap base and add the essential oils and colourants to that.
For info on this technique, check out my own book on handmade soap the easy way (using the melt and pour method): Good Clean Fun.


Start the day off right, feeling refreshed and ready to start the day using with this rosemary and peppermint cold process soap recipe.
Servings: 36 oz
Put on your safety gear.
Weigh your ingredients on a scale.
Heat olive oil, grapeseed oil, and coconut oil in a double boiler until it reaches 115°F.
While the oils heat, mix together the sodium hydroxide and water in a well-ventilated area. Let it sit in an ice bath until it also reaches 115°F.
Add the oil mixture to a mixing bowl, followed by the lye water. Use an immersion blender to mix until you reach a light trace.
Add the essential oils and sage powder, and mix again until well combined.
Add spirulina powder to the outer edge of the bowl. Mix in place, then use a chopstick to swirl twice through the mixture. Pour soap into the mould.
Let the soap sit undisturbed, somewhere warm, for 48 hours. After which, you can remove the soap from the mould and let it cure for six weeks before use.
Makes 36 oz total or approximately 7 x 5 oz bars. Will fill a 2 lb soap mould.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
[ad_2]
Stephanie Rose
Source link
[ad_1]
At first sight, there’s nothing extraordinary about Alice Fox’s allotment in West Yorkshire, England. In fact, her garden community neighbors are “mostly oblivious” to the magic she weaves there. The addition of a flax crop may have been a novelty when she first rented the plot, but the size and layout of the land, sheds, and greenhouse seem pretty standard—until you look closer.
Peek through the window of the main shed and your eyes will be drawn to a wonderful organized jumble of plant pots, trays, tools, jars of homemade botanical inks, sketches, scribbles, samples, fragments of ceramics, wire, plastic, and other unearthed objects, as well as an ever-changing assortment of plant fibers in various stages of drying and hand-processing. This is where Fox’s uniquely beautiful and thought-provoking textile art begins to take form.
Alice took on Plot 105 in Autumn 2017 when she started her practice-based master’s program to explore ways to achieve greater self-sufficiency in her art. Although she’d had a share in an allotment previously, with a young family, she never really had the time to give to it: “The only way I could justify it was to make it part of my work,” she says.
In 2020, Alice self-published the story of her relationship with her allotment Plot 105 and how her engagement with the site has unfolded since taking it on. Today, her book sits in a shed, alongside the encyclopedia of gardening left by the previous tenant. Looking back, she acknowledges that her year of research “marked a fundamental shift in how I source my materials. It allowed me to grow as a gardener, giving a particular focus. It provides a space to be amongst nature, get my hands in the soil, and think while working there.”
We met Alice in West Yorkshire this summer to learn more about her allotment, her garden, and home studio, and the evolution of her sustainable creative practice that’s deeply embedded in land and place. Let’s dig deeper:
Photography courtesy of Alice Fox. Featured image (above) by Carolyn Mendelsohn.


[ad_2]
[ad_1]
Happy Friday, GPODers!
I’ve been talking a lot about gardens slowing down this week. It’s hard for me to not acknowledge this as I look out on bare trees and dead annuals that desperately need to be pulled from their pots, but I know plants are still very active in southern gardens. Patricia Cranston sent me a fabulous reminder when she shared these photos from a recent trip to Atlanta Botanical Garden. The intense heat of summer has subsided, and there are still plenty of colorful flowers and foliage to enjoy throughout their many different gardens.
I spent a lovely sunny day at the Atlanta Botanical Garden last week and took some photos that I hope my fellow GPOD readers will enjoy. The garden has extensive open and woodland gardens, a vegetable garden, a children’s garden, bog gardens, a tropical greenhouse, a desert house, and two orchid houses. You can easily spend an entire day there.
Mosaiculture dog made of grasses (no, they aren’t dead!)
Most of us have our eyes on plants when visiting botanical gardens, but these biodiverse destinations are almost always home to a variety of small wildlife. Keep a lookout for critters, and you might be surprised by what you find, like this frog thoroughly enjoying the bog garden.
This lovely mass planting of white pitcher plants (Sarracenia leucophylla, Zones 6–8) is an example of yet another reason to visit your local botanical garden. This plant is native to Georgia, coastal Florida, Mississippi, and Alabama, and is endangered in some areas because of loss of habitat. Hopefully this prominent planting encourages more people to learn about this fascinating plant.
Along with an impressive collection of plants, Atlanta Botanical Garden is home to some world-renowned art. In this photo Patricia captured are the dazzling Enchanted Trees by Poetic Kinetics. This is a traveling art installation that consists of 11 incredible artwork trees that can be found across the garden. Patricia was lucky to catch this display, as the trees will be moving on to their next location after they leave the gardens on January 11, 2026.
Endangered natives are extremely important, but I know many people flock to public gardens specifically to see the exotics. Greenhouses and conservatories are always treasure troves of tropical plants at scales seen nowhere else outside of the wild. For example, this wild red banana (Musa haekkinenii, Zones 11–12) can turn your idea of bananas on its head. Rather than producing large, sweet fruit, it produces these wonderful inflorescences, which small, heavily seeded fruit grows from.
Scarlet star (Guzmania lingulata, Zones 10–12) is a bromeliad, and another bold red tropical. This is a great photo to demonstrate that the red “petals” are actually bracts, often mistaken as flowers. The true flowers of this plant are small and white, and emerge from between those bracts.
Of course, we can’t talk tropicals without seeing at least a couple of orchids. These Schlim’s slipper orchids (Phragmipedium schlimii, Zones 10–12) create pretty clusters of foliage around their delicate blooms.
Lastly, a hybrid Miltoniopsis orchid (Miltoniopsis Lillian Nakamoto, Zones 10–12), which, with the black-bat-shaped marking in the middle, would have fit into our Halloween posts last week. It’s paired with a matching white moth orchid (Phalaenopsis spp. and cvs., Zones 10–12) alongside.
Thank you so much for sharing some highlights from this wonderful public garden with us, Patricia! From amazing art to the most interesting plants, you captured some of the best parts of botanical gardens—the elements we likely aren’t able to replicate in our home landscapes.
Did you visit any public gardens this year? As much as we love to feature private gardens, we also enjoy seeing public gardens through the eyes of our GPOD community. Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening!
Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here
Fine Gardening Recommended Products
Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers “the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens.
Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs.
[ad_2]
GPOD Contributor
Source link
[ad_1]
They’re easy to care for, really they are. In fact, you should avoid the mistake of giving them too much versus too little. They don’t want too much water, and they don’t require too much room to grow.
They might become more seriously rootbound eventually and need repotting, but you can expect this to happen only once every two or three years.
You’ll be able to tell they’ve reached that point when the rosettes completely hide the soil surface and the leaves are cascading over the edges of the pot.
When you notice those signs, move your mature aloe into a new pot that’s just a size bigger – maybe two inches wider in diameter – and it will be good to go for a couple more years.
You can buy seedlings and young plants, though they’re not as widely available as many other types of succulents.
These seedlings in four-inch pots are available via Amazon.
In my experience, the seedlings arrive in great shape, surviving the shipping quite well, carefully wrapped in bubble wrap.


It’s also possible to start this unusual succulent from seed.
If you have a buddy with this variety of aloe, you are in luck! The simplest way to acquire your own red and green succulent is to propagate one of the small offsets the mature plants produce.
These offsets, or “pups,” sprout in the soil near the base of the plant.
Just tug one gently out of the dirt, roots and all, let it dry for a day or two, then plant in a two-inch container full of pre-moistened cactus or succulent mix.
See more directions for propagating ‘Christmas Carol’ and other aloe varieties in our propagation guide.


It’s possible to start this unusual succulent from seed, but ‘Christmas Carol’ is a hybrid, so there’s a good chance seeds won’t grow true to the variety you’re expecting.
If you still want to give it a go, increase the odds of germination by creating a shallow container of cactus or succulent potting mix that’s at least half sand or perlite and that has been moistened.
A container that can later rest on a sunny windowsill is the best option.
Plant the seeds about an inch apart and top them with a thin layer of the light soil, about an eighth of an inch thick.
Place the container where it won’t be disturbed in an area that maintains a consistent temperature of 70°F or a few degrees warmer.
Bottom heat and a plastic wrap cover on top of the container will hasten germination, which can take anywhere from two to four weeks.
Make sure to keep the soil damp while the seeds germinate – this is crucial. A spray bottle of plain water or a plant mister will work best. Replace the plastic top after spritzing each time.
[ad_2]
Rose Kennedy
Source link
[ad_1]
Rosemary can be used in so many different ways, from culinary recipes to natural beauty to pest control, and it has long been renowned for its healing properties. This plant is easy to grow and propagate, and a delicious addition to many culinary creations. Follow this essential guide to rosemary for the best tips on how to grow, care for, preserve, and use this hardy wonder herb.
Rosemary thrives in dry, rocky conditions, so it is a great choice to grow in a rock garden or on a wall. This is because it is native to the Mediterranean, where it grows wild along rocky ocean cliffs—the plant gets its name from the Latin “rosmarinus,” which means “sea mist.”
When rosemary was brought to England in the fifteenth century, it became known as a symbol of loyalty and was often given as a token of fidelity from a bride to her groom on their wedding day.
It has since travelled all over the world and become one of the most common—and well-loved—herbs for home gardens.
Let me share all of my rosemary tips and goodness with you!
Rosemary is known for its antiseptic, anti-fungal, and anti-inflammatory properties—in the sixteenth century, it was often burned to disinfect rooms that had previously been occupied by sick people.
It is also purported to have anti-stress properties and to improve focus and memory, so grab a sprig of rosemary and rub it between your hands to release the aroma if you need to study or get some work done.
Rosemary is often used as a natural painkiller for nausea and headaches by rubbing the fresh herb or diffusing rosemary essential oil.
A rosemary leaf can even help with your breath. Chew one leaf as a natural breath freshener, or add some to a batch of homemade dog cookies if your pampered pooch wakes you up in the morning with a kiss.


Plant rosemary seeds about eight to ten weeks prior to the last frost of the spring. Plant in an area with well-draining soil. Rosemary can grow quite large (up to four feet tall with a four-foot spread), so make sure that you give it enough room between other plants
Be careful not to overwater, which is a common mistake with rosemary. Remember that it likes dry conditions and only water when the top two inches of soil feel very dry to the touch.


Pruning: trim rosemary back after it flowers (cut off the top inch or two of each flowering sprig) and be sure to prune regularly to keep the plant from becoming leggy.
Pests and Disease: root rot is common. To prevent it, provide good drainage and air circulation and don’t overwater. Whitefly and spider mites are common pests on rosemary plants. Prevent them by keeping your rosemary healthy and strong (they can’t do much damage to an already healthy plant), and get rid of them with a solution of water mixed with soap or neem oil applied directly to the leaves.
Propagation: snip a piece of new growth (the stem should be soft and green as opposed to woody) about five inches long. Strip off the lower leaves, place the cutting in a jar of water with a plastic sandwich bag over top for protection. When roots begin to develop, remove the cutting from the jar and plant in soil. You can also use rooting hormone to help your cutting along, if you wish. For more details on propagation, head over to this post.
Overwintering: Rosemary is hardy to Zone 6 or 7, but you can also overwinter it indoors if you would like to have fresh rosemary to use all winter long.
To overwinter outdoors, remove any weeds from around the base of the plant, give it a good prune, and cover with a two-to-four-inch layer of mulch to insulate and protect it from cold winter temperatures. See more tips on overwintering herbs.
Harvest up to one-third of the plant at a time. Try to trim the new, green stems, as opposed to the woody stems.
You can use rosemary fresh, tie the sprigs into a bundle and hang them up to dry, or store them in an airtight container for future use.
There are endless ways to use rosemary in cooking, natural beauty recipes, and around the home. Here are a few ideas:
Whether you use it for cooking, crafting, or healing, you won’t regret adding a rosemary plant to your garden!
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
[ad_2]
Stephanie Rose
Source link
[ad_1]
Ah, fall: when cozy sweaters come out, the air crisps up, a kaleidoscope of colorful leaves decorate sidewalks, and it’s a struggle to decide which pumpkin-flavored drink to buy at the local coffee shop. In the garden, grasses turn tawny, flowers transform to seed heads, and it’s a struggle (as you sip your pumpkin-spiced latte) to decide what needs to be done and how to prepare plants for the coming sleepy, cold months.
You’re on your own picking your hot beverage of choice, but we can help you figure out your fall gardening chores. Below, six burning questions you may have about autumn gardening.
Featured photograph by Christin Geall, from Flower Design: A Week at the Cambo Estate in Scotland.
Yes. (And sorry!) We may not always see weeds, but trust me, they’re there, quietly resting below the soil surface, waiting for us (or creatures) to disturb the soil so that they can get some sun and a drink of water—and then KABOOM! Total weed invasion. Fall is definitely a time when weed seeds are storing food for winter, or they are exploding as they dry up. My advice: don’t procrastinate. The best way to get ahead of a spring weed invasion is to get a hold of the situation in the fall. And the most important thing you can do right now is prevent weeds from going to seed. How? Remove the weeds you see. And to ensure a successful eradication, determine what weeds you have and how they reproduce. Do they spread by seed, by rhizome, or re-sprout with a deep taproot? Once you know your culprits and how they make more of themselves, then you can learn how to successfully attack them. (See Weed Wisdom: What 10 Common Weeds Are Trying to Tell You.)
Here’s an idea to prevent weeds from taking over your world: lay down a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to bury newly dropped weed seeds and prevent light from reaching them. For large weedy areas, consider the sheet mulching method where you lay down flattened cardboard or newspaper first and then pile a thick layer of mulch on top. For individual weeds, consider pouring undiluted vinegar directly on the weed. Whatever method you do choose, manage weeds as naturally and as non toxic as possible. (See Landscaping 101: Pros and Cons of Homemade Weed Killer.)

Bottom line: don’t stop watering yet, because plants still need water—just not as much as in the hot summer. After plants spend the summer devoting time and energy into leaf and flower growth, they move on to fruit and seed production, and then they take advantage of the fall season to get busy growing their roots. This means if we have a non-rainy fall, plant roots can dehydrate and plants become stressed; they will need continued drinks of water to keep them healthy. This is especially true for sunnier south-facing areas, and not so much for north-facing areas where the moisture will stay longer. Also, remember that plants under solid eaves don’t benefit from rainfall and can remain dry as a bone so you will need to hand water these areas.
Pro Tip: Newly installed or transplanted plants definitely need regular watering through the fall.

When winter finally creeps in, it also brings along its own set of dry, damaging conditions. When plants are packed under snow and ice, roots still get thirsty. The solution is to super hydrate plant roots before winter, and before the ground freezes, this means giving your plants long, deep soaks of water. When temperatures start to drop below 40 degrees F, you can wind down the water. If you’re in a warmer climate, the soil may not freeze at all, and if it doesn’t rain for a few weeks, your plants will still need a weekly dose of H2O.
[ad_2]
[ad_1]
Hi GPODers!
The gray part of fall has arrived in New England, and most of the vibrant foliage around me has already fallen. Halloween is over, and this time of year can feel like a dull stretch before the excitement of the holiday season sets in. So I decided a hardy dose of color might be exactly what we need to bring us back to warmer and brighter days. Thankfully, I had a bunch of photos from Heidi Weirether’s amazing flower gardens in Redding, Connecticut, ready to share. We last saw Heidi’s garden back in September, when her borders and beds were still looking lush and lovely (September in Heidi’s Connecticut Garden). She had a few more photos from around that time, and today we get to enjoy another helping of color.
Heidi has awe-worthy borders full of fantastic perennials, but her patio garden mainly consists of incredible annual plant combinations. White zinnias and pink cosmos are heavenly against a backdrop of bright pink impatiens.
A white spider flower (Cleome spp., Zones 9–11 or as an annual) is really living up to its name and putting up a spectacular display of wispy blooms.
A long bloomer that will keep on performing into fall is flowering tobacco (Nicotiana spp., annual), which can be found in a wide range of colors. This lilac shade with pink veining fits right in with the rest of Heidi’s annual display.
If a specific color palette is what you’re going for, mixing and matching the same annuals in multiple colors is an easy way to make cohesive designs that are still exciting. Here, pink zinnias pair with pink cleome—both plants Heidi also has in white varieties.
It seems like every one of Heidi’s plantings is a smashing success. This red ivy geranium (Pelargonium peltatum, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) spilled right out of its container and is covered in bold blooms.
Lastly, a little bit of color from a different source: the always wonderful berries of Japanese beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma, Zones 5–8). I might get a little sentimental about spring and summer color this time of year, but there is still plenty to enjoy in the late season.
Thank you for continuing to share your gorgeous garden with us, Heidi! Whether we’re enjoying your plantings during the peak of summer or on a gray day in the late season, it’s always a delight to see your colorful designs.
As we head toward colder days, more gray skies, and inclement weather, Garden Photo of the Day can become a haven of color as we reminisce about our spring and summer gardens. The end of the year is a great time to reflect on the successes we had during the peak of the growing season, so consider sharing your 2025 garden highlights with the blog! Follow the directions below to submit photos via email, or send me a DM on Instagram: @agirlherdogandtheroad.
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with #FineGardening!
Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here
Fine Gardening Recommended Products
Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers “the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens.
The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
The Nature of Oaks reveals what is going on in oak trees month by month, highlighting the seasonal cycles of life, death, and renewal. From woodpeckers who collect and store hundreds of acorns for sustenance to the beauty of jewel caterpillars, Doug Tallamy illuminates and celebrates the wonders that occur right in our own backyards. He also shares practical advice about how to plant and care for an oak, along with information about the best oak species for your area.
Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes
Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs.
[ad_2]
GPOD Contributor
Source link
[ad_1]
Forget what you’ve heard about “leaving plants alone to do their thing.” Some herbs actually need regular attention and trimming to do their best.
After ignoring my herbs during my first two years of gardening, I learned that pruning makes a real difference.
A properly pruned herb can produce up to 3x more harvest throughout the season. Here are the herbs that really benefit from regular cuts.
Most herbs actually do better when you cut them regularly. Unlike that regrettable pandemic self-trim, herbs thrive when pruned.
Think of pruning like a workout for your plants. It encourages fresh growth and keeps flavors strong.
When left untouched, many herbs bolt quickly (garden-speak for “they flower, get bitter, and stop producing much”). Regular pruning prevents this and keeps your plants productive longer.
The difference between new and experienced gardeners is knowing when to snip. Just like you wouldn’t go months between haircuts, your herbs need regular maintenance, too.
• The Clean-Tool Rule: Always use sharp, clean scissors or pruners. Dirty tools spread disease.
• The Morning Method: Prune in the morning when essential oils are most concentrated for better flavor.
• The One-Third Law: Never remove more than ⅓ of the plant at once—herbs need time to recover from big cuts.
• The Waste-Not Approach: Compost trimmings or dry them for later use—your future soups will thank you.
Basil loses flavor when allowed to flower. Pinch just above leaf pairs to create a bushier plant with better harvest potential.
Those flower buds? They’re your plant’s signal that it’s ready to stop producing. Remove them right away to keep leaves tender and flavorful.
Mint spreads like crazy if you let it. Trim it back by a third every few weeks to keep it dense and stop it from taking over your entire garden.
Most people are too gentle with mint. This herb can handle aggressive pruning.
What matters most with oregano is giving it tough love. Without regular pruning, it goes from tender herb to woody stems faster than you’d think.
Cut back to about two-thirds height, especially before it flowers, for continuous harvests.
Thyme develops a woody, unproductive base faster than most herbs. Snip the top few inches regularly, but avoid cutting into old woody stems unless you’re ready for a complete plant makeover.
I was surprised to learn that parsley needs a different approach. Harvest outer stems at the base. Never just pluck leaves.
This triggers better regrowth and prevents the “bald spot” look that often happens otherwise.
Left unpruned, rosemary goes from herb to small tree pretty fast. Trim young, green stems often for bushier growth and avoid cutting into woody parts.
This Mediterranean native can live for decades with proper pruning. Some European specimens are over 50 years old.
Light pruning during the growing season keeps sage looking good and producing well. After flowering, cut back by about a third.
Your sage will reward you with fresh new growth instead of becoming the sprawling, leggy mess that happens to many herb gardens.
Cut chives low, about 1-2 inches above the soil, to get fresh, tender shoots. The real trick with chives is pruning after flowering.
This prevents them from wasting energy on seed production and redirects it to new growth you can actually use.
Cilantro bolts faster than almost any herb. Harvest early and often, cutting stems close to the base to delay flowering.
This quick-cycle herb needs the most strategic pruning of all. Every snip buys you extra time before it flowers and goes to seed.
Unlike shrubs and trees that need heavy cutting, herbs need a lighter touch. Think of yourself as a plant sculptor. Each cut should be intentional and precise. Get up close, visualize where you want new growth, and trim with control.

Traditional pruning focuses on airflow and the removal of dead wood. Herb pruning is all about encouraging tender new growth—more like a refresh than major surgery.
Don’t get too hung up on pruning perfection—herbs are pretty forgiving. Keep the basic guidelines in mind, time your trims right (usually before flowering for most herbs), and adjust as you learn.
With proper pruning, you’ll turn struggling herbs into productive plants that keep giving all season long.
Now grab those scissors—your herbs are waiting.
[ad_2]
Gary Antosh
Source link
[ad_1]
Want unlimited Snake Plants without spending another dime? Your mature Sansevieria has a helpful feature: the ability to produce baby plants (pups) that you can separate into brand-new specimens.
I was surprised to learn that with the right approach, you can encourage your plant to create offspring. Once you know how, you won’t need to buy new plants at $15-30 each.
Snake plant pups are baby plants that sprout from the mother plant’s root system. These little offshoots are genetic clones that can be separated to create entirely new plants for free.
Think of pups like the plant version of having children, except you don’t need to pay for college tuition or braces. And honestly, these babies are much less noisy.
The real trick for your Snake plant isn’t fancy fertilizers or expensive grow lights. It’s strategic stress and the right growing conditions.
• Indirect Light: Bright enough to energize but not harsh enough to burn
• Calculated Watering: Keep soil on the drier side (drought triggers survival mode)
• Perfect Temperature: Maintain between 64°F-84°F (18°C-29°C)
• Pot Size Matters: Use slightly root-bound conditions to trigger pup production
• Strategic Fertilization: Feed during the growing season with phosphorus-rich fertilizer
Snake plants are easier to propagate than you might think. When these five conditions align, your plant will produce plenty of babies.
A single mature Snake plant can produce up to 10 pups in one growing season under optimal conditions.
Here’s what matters most: Snake plants produce pups when they feel slightly threatened. This survival mechanism is your secret weapon.
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Gone dry for 2-3 extra days beyond your normal schedule.
This mild drought stress signals to the plant that it should produce offspring before conditions worsen.
Another stress trigger? Repot your plant, then place it in slightly brighter light than usual for 2-3 weeks.
The plant senses that the environment is changing and responds by making backup plants. That’s when pup production starts.
This method requires a bit more courage but delivers good results. When repotting, locate the thick underground stems (rhizomes) and make clean cuts with a sterilized knife to separate them.
The best part is that each rhizome section with at least one growth point will turn into a new plant. Just don’t attempt this with immature plants. They need to be at least 2-3 years old for success.
Here’s a common mistake with Snake plants: keeping them permanently root-bound. While tight quarters can trigger pup production, occasionally giving roots more space creates a nice baby boom.
Moving from a 6″ to an 8″ pot gives the rhizomes room to spread horizontally instead of just vertically. Think of it as giving your plant a bigger house. Suddenly it feels like there’s room for more family members.
When your snake plant’s pups reach 2-3 inches tall, it’s time to separate them. Here’s how to ensure their survival:
• Separation surgery: Use a sharp, sterilized knife to cut the connecting rhizome (dull blades increase disease risk)
• Soil matters: Plant in fresh, well-draining cactus/succulent mix (never reuse old soil)
• Water wisdom: Lightly mist the soil for the first 2 weeks, then switch to deep but infrequent watering
• Temperature control: Keep between 70-75°F for optimal initial growth
The difference between new and experienced plant parents is patience. New pups need 3-4 weeks to establish their own root systems before they start showing new growth. Don’t panic if they seem stuck. They’re busy working underground.
With these techniques, your single Snake plant can turn into dozens of plants within a year or two. I’ve personally created over 30 plants from a single mother plant over the past 3 years.


Not only will you save hundreds of dollars, but you’ll also have perfect gift plants for friends, family, or even to sell at local plant swaps.
Plus, more of these air-purifying plants around your home means cleaner air. NASA studies show That Snake plants remove toxins such as formaldehyde and benzene from indoor environments.
Your Snake plant is ready to become a parent – you just need to set the right conditions. The best time to start is right now, at the beginning of the growing season. Within months, you’ll have plenty of beautiful, free Snake plants.
[ad_2]
Gary Antosh
Source link
[ad_1]
It’s worth noting that you can’t force a Christmas cactus to flower at a different time of the year – you can simply take these steps to encourage it to bloom.

During this period, keep your Christmas cactus in a room with bright, indirect light during the daytime, with nighttime temperatures at a chilly 55 to 60°F, and 13 to 15 hours of uninterrupted darkness.
Also reduce watering, but do not let the soil dry out completely.
Some Christmas cactus owners solve the need for darkness by placing a brown paper bag over their plants, since even exposure to artificial light can prevent flowering.


Others move their plants in and out of a closet every day, but this is not recommended.
Christmas cacti do not like to be moved frequently, and the stress that this can cause may prevent them from blooming.
For its pre-bloom resting period, I like to place my Christmas cactus in a room on the north side of my house where there is bright, diffused light, and where the temperature remains cool.


This is also a room we don’t use in the evening, so there are enough nighttime hours of darkness.
When your plant begins to produce buds, the first resting period is complete, and you can return it to its normal temperature, light, and watering conditions.
Learn how to encourage your Christmas cactus to bloom.
The second resting period is after flowering. Reduce water again and return your plant to a room with cooler temperatures until the growing season begins in April.
Considering the conditions they have adapted to in the wild, it makes sense that these houseplants prefer to be slightly pot bound.
A good rule of thumb is to plan to repot about every three years in spring, at the beginning of the plant’s growth season.


Replant in potting soil with good drainage and aeration – 60 percent potting soil and 40 percent sand or perlite is recommended.
Heavy, waterlogged soils can lead to disease. Read more about selecting the best potting mix for Christmas cactus here.
When repotting, handle with care – this plant does not like having its roots disturbed.
And remember, this plant does not naturally grow in soil, so make sure to move your plant up to a pot size that is only slightly larger than the existing one when you repot.
Get more tips on repotting here.
While Christmas cacti can be grown from seed, the easiest and fastest way to propagate them is from cuttings.
Propagation from cuttings should be done in the warm growing months, April through September. Wait until at least a month after flowering to take cuttings.


Cut stems back at the joints between the fleshy segments, shaping your plant so you don’t leave it lopsided as you take the cuttings.
Each cutting should be two to five segments long. Make sure you always cut at the joints and not through the center of a segment, using a clean pair of scissors or a sharp knife.


You can dust the ends of the cuttings with rooting hormone powder, but this is not required.
Place the cut stem segments in a spot with bright, indirect light and good air circulation to let the cuts heal over and dry out for two to four days before planting.
When you’re ready to plant, place the root ends of the cuttings into a container with potting substrate that is moist but not wet.
Plant the cuttings about half an inch to an inch deep, or just deep enough so that they will remain upright.


Place the container in a spot that receives bright, indirect light – not direct sun.
After you see some new growth starting to develop, give them some water. It will take three to 12 weeks for the cuttings to become established.
You’ll need a bit of patience, as this new plant can take up to two to three years to mature and produce flowers.
Find more propagation tips here.
[ad_2]
Kristina Hicks-Hamblin
Source link