Category: Home & Garden

Plantago spp.

Why would anyone bother to grow plantain?

Largely ignored by the modern gardener, and often regarded as an irksome weed, plantain is one of those overlooked and often ridiculed plants that actually has quite a lot to offer.

Once we learn to appreciate it, that is.

With edible nutritious leaves, medicinal value, and ecological importance, this plant is really worth a second look.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Luckily, many gardeners are beginning to spread the word about the true value of this useful medicinal herb.

What Is Plantain?

Commonly found growing in lawns and disturbed areas, once you learn to identify this herbaceous perennial, you will likely start noticing it everywhere.

There are about 200 species in the Plantago genus. The three most common varieties found in the US are broadleaf plantain (P. major), Rugel’s plantain (P. rugelii), and ribwort plantain (P. lanceolata).

All of these are known by many additional common names, and all are used in herbal medicine.

Broadleaf plantain is a compact perennial flowering herb that has low growing, egg-shaped, waxy green leaves with prominent veins. It’s also known as birdseed, broadleaf plantain, healing blade, and hen plant.

Said to have been brought to what is now the US by the Puritans, some Native Americans called it “white man’s footprint.” Foliage can grow to about six inches long and four inches wide.

In late summer, it produces a green, leafless stalk that rises above the leaves, with long, spiky clusters of tiny, densely packed greenish-brown flowers with purple stamens.

Named for 19th century German botanist Ferdinand Ignatius Xavier Rugel, Rugel’s plantain looks similar to broadleaf, and the two are often confused.

Its wide, viened leaves are slightly lighter green and have less of a waxy feel to them. The base of the petioles where leaves attach to stems may also be purple or reddish, and it produces densely packed spiky clusters of off-white flowers.

It’s also known as American, blackseed, or pale plantain.

Ribwort or English plantain is much taller, with thin, lance-shaped leaf blades that are rarely more than an inch in breadth. In fact, it’s sometimes called narrowleaf plantain, as well as ribleaf, buckthorn, or lamb’s tongue.

The leafless flower stalks can be more than two feet long with pointed, dense flower spikes. Flowers are brownish green, with long white stamens.

All of these species grow readily in disturbed, compacted soils, including rocky and sandy terrain, and can be found in abundance all over the place, particularly in USDA Hardiness Zones 3-9.

As such, this plant plays an important ecological role in revitalizing disturbed and compacted soil.

As plantain spreads to cover an area (and it will spread, thanks to the many thousands of seeds that it produces each season), the fibrous roots break up hard, compressed soils, simultaneously preventing erosion by holding the earth in place.

While many think of it as a weed these days, plantain has not always been regarded as such, and it has in fact been used in food and medicine for thousands of years.

Cultivation and History

Both broadleaf and ribwort plantain are native to Europe and Asia, and Rugel’s originated in North America. But these species and many others can be found growing all over the world.

A highly accessible and abundant healing herb, plantain has been used in herbal medicine for a very long time.

Around 327 BC, Alexander the Great was said to have noted the culinary and medicinal use of plantain while in India, and brought the plant back with him to Europe.

The Lacnunga (or “Remedies” in English), an Anglo-Saxon collection of medical texts from the 10th century CE, included plantain as one of nine sacred herbs used in combination as a cure for poisoning and infection.

Even Shakespeare mentioned it in several of his plays.

“Your plantain leaf is excellent for that… for your broken shin,” Romeo says to Benvolio. As Shakespere references, this herbal remedy has long been used as a salve for scrapes and minor injuries.

But Romeo also dishes out the same medicine Benvolio has given him with his mockery, insinuating that Benvolio has offered little help for his love-sickness.

Medicinal Use

Referred to by herbalists as a vulnerary herb, this plant is perhaps best known as a remedy that may help to heal wounds.

It contains slippery mucilage that is soothing and healing to the skin, and is often applied topically to treat all kinds of minor wounds, including insect stings and bites, allergic rashes such as those from poison ivy and stinging nettle, hives, burns, cuts, and abrasions.

It is also prepared as a poultice to draw out splinters or glass.

To make a poultice, crush or blend the herb into a paste and apply it to the affected area. Wrap the mixture with gauze or a bandage to keep it in place.

Leaving it on for anywhere from 10 minutes to overnight is recommended, reapplying the mixture every few hours if needed.

From Seed

Direct sow seeds in the spring. The seeds are tiny, and plants produce many of them. Broadcast them over your selected area, and barely cover them with soil. Keep the soil moist until they sprout.

To increase germination rates, you can cold stratify seeds before planting by placing them in the refrigerator for a few weeks.

Seeds are spread by the wind, and this plant will self sow readily. If you already have a few plants growing around the garden, either collect the seed yourself after flowering, or allow plants to self-sow around your garden to grow next season.

Transplanting

If you find some growing wild, you can dig them up and transplant elsewhere to encourage spreading wherever you like.

This plant is easy to transplant since it has shallow, fibrous roots, plus a stronger taproot. You can encourage a patch to grow wherever you want it to by moving a few plants to the area.

Be careful to keep the taproot and as many of the more fibrous roots intact as you can when you dig, and plant them to the same depth at which they were growing elsewhere. Water well, and watch ‘em grow.

How to Grow

You should keep the soil moist until seeds start to sprout, but once the plants are established, required maintenance is minimal.

There really isn’t much that needs to be done to keep them going, and they will happily grow and spread! All you have to do is wait until it is time to harvest.

Plantain can survive mowing or trampling in high-traffic areas of the yard, it can be planted in clay soil, and it can even help to keep the soil in place in areas prone to erosion.

But if you plan to pick the tender young leaves to add to your salads, or you wish to use them to make tea or other herbal medicines, it’s best to dedicate a more protected spot in your garden to growing this plant for edible use.

Growing Tips

• Seeds grow best when given a period of exposure to low temperatures prior to sprouting. Taking the time to cold stratify your collected seeds before planting will increase germination rates.
• To keep the herb from spreading to other parts of the garden where it is less desirable, you may want to grow it in an entirely separate area. If the herb does start to creep into parts of your yard where it isn’t wanted, just dig the whole plant up and either harvest it, or move it to your designated garden bed.
• You can also plant it in compacted soil that you wish to improve for future crops, or areas in danger of erosion.

Where to Buy

Because this plant is often considered a weed, it is not always easy to source seed commercially.

Generally, your best bet is to find some growing nearby and either transplant it, or harvest and save the seeds to sow in the springtime.

A few options are available online as well.

P. major

P. major seeds are available for purchase from Earthbeat Seeds in packets of 100.

P. lanceolata

Or, if you prefer the English variety, P. lanceolata seeds are available from Earthbeat Seeds in packages of 100.

Managing Pests and Disease

Plantain plants are hardy, with a tendency to thrive in adverse conditions – that’s why they’re known as weeds by many people, after all!

You shouldn’t face many issues when growing this plant at home. Here are just a few problems to keep an eye out for:

Herbivores and Omnivores

Plantain provides food for all sorts of wildlife. Herbivores including rabbits, deer, cattle, and sheep may munch on the greens and flower stalks.

Omnivores including groundhogs (aka woodchucks) and songbirds may stop by to eat the leaves or seeds as well.

Insects

Several types of insects may also like to visit your plantain crop as a source of food, though visits from friendly pollinators are uncommon. If you’re growing enough, you should have plenty to share with the bugs!

Aphids

These small insects like to suck sap from leaves, damaging plants. Management is generally not necessary, however, as it is unlikely that an infestation will get out of control.

If you see them, knock them off with a strong spray from the hose.

You can read more about aphids here.

Buckeye Caterpillars

Junonia coenia, or common buckeye butterflies, lay single eggs on plants, as opposed to the clusters of other types of butterfly eggs that you might see on other host plants around the garden.

Their larvae like to munch on the leafy greens.

These caterpillars are solitary creatures who tend to live alone, and they shouldn’t cause too much damage overall. Pick them off and move them elsewhere, if you like.

Flea Beetles

These small jumping insects chew small holes in leaves, which may result in wilting or stunted plants.

In the unlikely event that an infestation becomes serious, try placing sticky traps around the garden bed to capture these beetles.

Read more about flea beetles here.

Disease

Few diseases tend to plague plantain, but be sure to keep an eye on maintaining proper airflow between plants, particularly during extended periods of rain and high humidity.

Powdery Mildew

Plantain may be susceptible to powdery mildew. This fungus causes lesions to appear, which can eventually spread over entire stem and leaf surfaces.

A mixture of baking soda, dish soap, and water sprayed on plants can help to keep mildew in check.

We have a guide to treating powdery mildew here.

Harvesting

Leaves can be harvested at any time during the growing season – before, during, or after flowering.

The most important thing to keep in mind is that you want to harvest the fresh inner leaves. The outer ones, which are older, tend to be tougher. Just snip off the leaves as you need them and enjoy!

Early-season harvests tend to be best for making tinctures.

Seeds can be harvested when the heads are fully developed, drying, and starting to turn brown.

You can check if they are ready to harvest by taking a seed head and shaking it against your hand. If seeds come flying out, they are ready to go.

Run your fingers up the dried stalks one at a time to gently pull off the seeds. Collect them in a plastic bag.

Sift the seeds through a fine strainer a couple of times, and then blow on them gently to remove the husks.

The roots are also used in medicine, though less commonly.

Root harvest is best done in the fall, when the plants’ energy is directed downward, away from the leaves. Just pull up a plant and gather the roots.

Don’t worry too much about over harvesting, as this plant will likely keep coming back no matter how much you take out.

When foraging for wild plantain, be sure to pay attention to where you are getting it from, and be cautious about harvesting plants grown in potentially contaminated areas. Avoid roadsides, driveways, unfamiliar terrain, and areas that may have been sprayed with herbicides.

Preserving

While this plant is best used fresh, especially for topical application, you can dry the leaves to use them for tea or to make herbal washes.

To dry the leaves, dehydrate them at 95°F until they are crumbly, checking their texture occasionally until they are dry.

You can also lay them on a screen or tray in a dark, dry location to dry, or hang them upside down in bundles.

Once the leaves are fully dried, store them in a tightly lidded jar in a dark cupboard.

You can also make a tincture with the fresh herb so you will have a stock of plant medicine available throughout the year.

To do this, simply fill a glass jar with fresh plantain leaves and top it with 30 to 40% alcohol. Cover the jar tightly and place it in a dark location for four to six weeks, shaking it daily to agitate the mixture. Strain and transfer to a dropper bottle.

You could also try making an infused oil or salve with the fresh leaves. This is a wonderful way to store this herb for topical use anytime you need it.

Start by filling a glass jar with fresh leaves and top with a carrier oil.

Olive oil is my preference, as it has a long shelf life and is more affordable than some other types of oil, but jojoba, coconut, almond, or avocado oil are also great choices.

Let the herb sit in the oil for about four to six weeks, shaking the jar daily. You can keep it in the sun for the first few days, then transfer it to a dark cupboard for the remainder of the time.

Once the oil is ready, you can strain it and use it as is, or combine it with beeswax to make a healing salve.

To make a plantain salve, prepare a double boiler and fill it with one part herbal infused oil and one part beeswax. Stir over low heat until melted.

Next, pour the liquid into tins or small glass jars and leave them on the counter to set. The salve will harden at room temperature.

For a wonderfully soothing salve, try adding additional herbs such as calendula, yarrow, comfrey, and jewelweed. You can also add a few drops of lavender or peppermint essential oil for a final, therapeutic and aromatic touch.

Cooking Ideas

The leaves of this plant are edible and nutritious, with a slight bitterness and a generally mild flavor. They’re rich in calcium, as well as vitamins A, C, and K.

You can eat the young leaves raw in salads, or blend them into juices or smoothies.

They can be cooked in stir fries and stews, adding a flavor and texture similar to spinach. Dried leaves can be crumbled and added to soups or cold blended beverages.

Fresh or dried leaves can also be brewed as a tea. To make an infusion, add 1-2 teaspoons of the dried herb to a cup of water, or about double that quantity if the herb is used fresh.

The seeds can also be soaked in room temperature water to make a cold infusion.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

One Person’s Weed Is Another Person’s Treasure

Some may look at plantain as a weed. But like so many throughout history, I see this as an herb that offers many benefits, and one of the most convenient to have on hand.

Next time you get cut or bitten while gardening, just throw some mashed up plantain on your wound, and see for yourself how handy it can be!

Do you have experience growing or using plantain? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

If you are looking for more medicinal plants to add to your garden, you’ll need these guides next:

I love the early summer because the weather is lovely, the whole season stretches out before you, and most importantly… it’s the beginning of gooseberry season!

In my area, the end of June means it’s time to start putting these flavorful fruits into pretty much every meal.

That means chopped gooseberries and nuts on my morning yogurt, pickled gooseberries on my afternoon sandwich, and grilled gooseberries on my evening fish.

If you’re growing your own bushes or you’re hoping to pluck some at a local U-pick farm, you’re probably wondering when and how to get the fruits away from those spiky bushes and into your mouth.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

This article will provide all the important details, plus a few tips on how to use up your harvest.

So get those gloves and berry baskets ready – it’s harvest time!

When to Harvest Gooseberries

Once you get your gooseberry plants in the ground, it takes them about three years to reach the point where you can get a full harvest off of a plant.

In the first year, you should rub or pick off any flowers to encourage the plant to focus on developing a healthy root system. That means no fruits for at least a year (insert sad face emoji here).

In the second and possibly third year, you’ll get a smaller harvest, but you’ll still be able to enjoy the tangy sweet fruits of your labor.

After that, you’re off to the races!

Unless you’ve selected an early-maturing variety, most gooseberries start producing in late spring or early summer, around the end of June or the beginning of July. Of course, this depends on where you live.

They’ll keep producing – again, depending on the variety and location – as late as the beginning of September.

So, when can you be sure it’s time to dig in?

Since the berries don’t fall off the bush until they’ve become over-ripe, and because they don’t all ripen all at the same time, you can’t wait for berries to start falling to know when it’s time to break out the baskets.

To complicate things further, if you want something with a tart flavor, you can pluck immature fruits starting several weeks before they ripen. Basically, gooseberry harvest time is anytime the fruits are on the bush!

Okay, not really, but you do have a lot of leeway to work with. Assuming you want to harvest your fruit at peak ripeness, when the berries are fully sweet, here’s what you need to know:

First, look into the mature size of the fruits that your particular cultivar produces. Watch for the fruits to reach this size.

Then, look at the little flower clinging to the bottom end of the berry. If it still has color and isn’t totally dried up, the berries probably aren’t ready to pick.

However, once that little flower stem has turned brown and completely dry, that’s a good indicator that the fruit is ready to be plucked.

You will know some berries are ready because they reach their ripe color. But you can’t always count on gooseberry fruit color to be a reliable indicator, since different cultivars have different berry colors.

It’s not enough to simply be aware that you have a yellow berry plant or a red berry plant, because these colors encompass a large range of different shades. Yellow cultivars can have ripe fruits that range from pale, almost white, to deep orangey-yellow. And red berries range from pale pink to almost black.

Green varieties are even trickier, since they don’t change color much as they mature.

Whatever the color, specific signs of ripeness depend so much on the particulars of your chosen cultivar.

If you know what your berries should look like when they’re ripe, keep an eye out for the fruits to turn their mature shade.

You can also compare berries to others on the bush. Here you can see mature fruits growing next to immature fruits:

A more reliable indicator is texture. The fruits should feel plump and juicy, not hard and solid.

The skins should also turn translucent, if you’ve picked a variety that does this. If the cultivar that you’ve planted has hairs on the fruit, those should be present as well.

To test the fruits, gently squeeze one with your finger. If it feels soft and as if it’s filled with liquid, it’s ready.

I’ve found the most reliable thing to do is to harvest and taste a few berries at random points – from different spots on the plant and on different days – and decide what you like best in terms of flavor and texture.

That way, you can decide when the berries are ready according to your own tastes.

Once you’ve found the perfect level of ripeness, note the time of year, the color, and the size of the fruits in your gardening journal. This will give you a better idea of when they should be ready next year.

If you are hoping to turn your berries into jam, pick them before they reach the fully ripe stage. They’ll have higher levels of pectin at this point.

Look for berries that are full size, that haven’t quite attained their mature color. They should be somewhat hard, and should taste tart.

It’s also worth noting that you can pick half of the berries when they are under ripe and let the rest stay on the plant until they’ve matured.

This will give you fewer berries at one time, but they will be larger and sweeter.

Some people compete to grow the largest fruit, with the winning gooseberry in 2019 weighing in at an astonishing 2.25 ounces, a world record! For reference, the gooseberries I’m nibbling on while writing this average 0.2 ounces each – and they’re pretty large.

How to Harvest

First things first: let’s talk about thorns.

Most gooseberry plants have nasty thorns that make harvesting a literal pain.

When you’re ready to pluck your fruits, suit up with gloves and something to cover your arms that you aren’t afraid to tear.

Unlike some fruits, gooseberries can stick around on the bush for a week or two even after they’ve ripened, and not all of the fruit matures at the same time.

They also grow individually along the branches, rather than in clusters.

All this means your best bet is to simply pluck the ripe fruits individually by hand, being careful to avoid the thorns if you can.

Gently tug each berry loose or snip it with a pair of scissors. Keep in mind that gooseberries are tender and plump, so they can burst in your hands. Use caution and don’t get too tough with them as you pull.

If you don’t like the idea of plucking them one by one, put a tarp under the bush. Then, shake the plant gently to dislodge the berries.

You might get a few under-ripe berries this way, but you can always use them to top fish, or you can pickle them. You might also lose a few berries if they burst when they hit the ground.

Gooseberries ripen over a period of several weeks, so you can head out to the garden daily and snatch a few ripe berries to eat, or come out every few days for a larger harvest.

Berries that fall on the ground on their own are overripe. Let the birds have them, or pick them up and toss them in the compost bin.

Depending on the variety you’ve selected, you can get up to 10 pounds of berries off of one bush.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Gooseberries are more versatile than other traditionally sweet berries, in my opinion.

Obviously, you can use them anywhere you’d use raspberries or blueberries. But they also lend themselves nicely to savory dishes, thanks to their tart characteristics.

The fact that you can pick and enjoy them when they’re immature makes them even more versatile.

Once you pick the fruits, they can last around 2 weeks in the refrigerator around 40°F.

Once you have harvested the berries, don’t wash them until you’re ready to use them. When it’s time to eat, remove the stems and flower ends from the berries and give them a good rinse.

You can use the immature fruits as you would rhubarb. For instance, they’re tasty baked into scones or cooked up with sugar and placed on top of yogurt, oatmeal, or meringues.

To make a quick compote, combine 2 cups of gooseberries with 1/2 cup water and 1/2 cup sugar. Put everything in a pot and boil the mixture until you get the consistency you want.

You can also use this to make cocktails, as a topping for ice cream or cake, or as a filling for cupcakes.

Then, of course, there’s gooseberry jam. The red berries make a vibrant red preserve, but I particularly love to use green and yellow berries to make a jam that looks a bit different.

Gooseberries don’t need to be relegated to the dessert realm either. You can chop them up and use them as a topping for fish, tacos, or enchiladas, or toss them into a green salad. I particularly love to use immature berries this way.

You can also puree a cup of immature berries and combine them with olive oil, chopped homegrown mint, a touch of sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. This is a fantastic dressing for salads.

Sometimes, when I have a good mixture of immature and mature berries on my bush, I like to pluck them both and make a spicy salsa.

I combine 4 cups of gooseberries, a chopped red onion, 3 cloves of minced garlic, 4 chopped jalapenos (less if you don’t like too much spice, or remove the ribs and seeds), 1/2 cup fresh cilantro, the juice of one lime, 2 teaspoons of sugar, and a teaspoon of salt.

Chop it all up in the food processor, pulsing until the consistency is to your liking.

Mature berries are delicious in fruit salad, especially if they’re somewhat tangy, because they add an unexpected texture and flavor. Try them blended into a smoothie as well.

Put This Piquant Fruit to Work

Honestly, there’s so much to love about gooseberries that it baffles me that more people don’t grow them.

Sadly, gooseberries don’t travel well because they have thin, tender skins that burst easily when they’re ripe. That’s why, if you can find gooseberries at the store, they’re usually immature and tart.

Now that you know how and when to harvest your gooseberries, you’ll never have to eat inferior fruits again.

If you want to learn more about growing your own berries, or how to forage for berries in the wild, check out these helpful guides next:

With its long history of medicinal use, I find yarrow to be one of the most incredible and fascinating common garden plants.

An herbaceous perennial and member of the aster family, it is distinguished by its feathery leaves and flowers that bloom in densely arranged clusters.

The plant grows to a few feet tall at maturity, spreading by rhizomes to create lovely flowering patches in gardens or fields. And it also smells fabulous!

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

There are multiple species in the Achillea genus, some wild natives, and several stunning ornamental cultivars featuring a wide range of colors including pale pink, purple, red, white, and yellow.

Boasting a long list of cultural, medicinal, and garden uses, this versatile herb is truly an incredible plant.

Here’s what to come in this article:

Cultivation and History: A Rich and Magical Past

Yarrow has been intertwined with humans for a very long time.

Native to temperate regions of the northern hemisphere in North America, Europe, and Asia, this magical herb has been used medicinally for thousands of years in many cultures around the world.

The Latin name Achillea comes from the mythical Greek warrior Achilles, who was said to have used this plant to heal soldiers wounded in war.

It was referred to in the classical period as herba militaris, because of its use in wound healing on the battlefield.

Use may date back even further. Evidence of yarrow has even been found in some Neanderthal grave sites. A study in 2012 by Karen Hardy, et al. found that yarrow was present in the dentition of Neanderthal remains from El Sidrón cave, an archaeological dig site in Spain.

In the Middle Ages it was used as an ingredient in gruit, an herbal mixture used to flavor ale prior to the use of hops. The flowers and leaves are still used in some types of bitters and liqueurs.

In China, stalks of yarrow plants were traditionally used to cast I Ching hexagrams. The I Ching is an ancient Chinese book of divination.

In North America, yarrow is considered to be one of the sacred “Life Medicines” by the Navajo people. It has been used traditionally by many different Native American tribes throughout history.

Easy to grow from seed, yarrow thrives in full sun and well-drained soil, but it will tolerate a variety of soil conditions.

You can direct sow seeds into the garden in early spring, or transplant from starts or cuttings after the danger of frost has passed.

Learn more about growing and caring for yarrow in our full growing guide.

Medicinal Use and Potential Health Benefits

With such a rich history and incredible breadth of medicinal properties, common yarrow, or A. millefolium, is still one of the most widely used medicinal herbs today.

The list of its medicinal properties is extensive, and the benefits of this ancient healing herb have been supported by a number of studies.

One study, conducted by researchers from the Department of Pharmacology and Toxicology at the University of Vienna, demonstrated that its antispasmodic effects may help to soothe symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome.

Long considered by herbalists to be a “blood moving herb,” yarrow has been used to stimulate blood circulation and lower blood pressure.

In herbal medicine terminology, it is known as “amphoteric,” which means it can work in seemingly contradictory ways to help the body achieve homeostasis, or “normalize.”

Due to its styptic and antimicrobial properties, it is famously known for its ability to stop bleeding (when applied directly to a wound), prevent infection, and aid blood circulation when taken internally.

It is often used as a poultice, wash, soak, or salve to relieve pain, and help to heal wounds and injuries of various types.

It can be beneficial in alleviating digestive complaints and symptoms of colds and flu, and is also used to treat hemorrhoids, ease menstrual discomfort and postpartum bleeding, and reduce inflammation in the gums.

The next time you have a toothache, try chewing on a yarrow leaf. Its analgesic properties can help to numb the affected area.

Making Herbal Remedies at Home

Harvest flower clusters when plants are in full bloom, cutting the top third of the plant just above a leaf node.

Leaves and flowers can be steeped in boiling water to make tea, and are best used fresh when applied as poultices for treating minor wounds.

You can dry foliage and flowers using a dehydrator, spread or hang them to air dry, or place them in the oven on the “warm” setting. Once they are thoroughly dried, it is easy to strip the leaves and flowers off the stems.

Both the dried leaves and the flowers can be consumed internally as a tea, preserved in tinctures, or infused into oils to make salves and creams.

Yarrow tea has a sweet and mildly bitter, aromatic flavor. It makes a wonderful addition to the herbal medicine cabinet to alleviate mild symptoms of colds and flu, as well as minor digestive complaints.

Infused Oil

Making an infused oil with yarrow is easy, and this serves as a useful treatment for wounds, inflamed muscles, and bruises. Its anti-inflammatory and astringent properties may help to reduce varicose vein swelling in some cases.

Just grind up some dried leaves and flowers, place them in a glass jar, and cover with a carrier oil in a 1:4 ratio, with one part dried plant matter and four parts oil.

I recommend using cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil as it is affordable and easy to find, but you can use any kind of high-quality neutral carrier oil that you prefer.

Seal the jar tightly with a lid and set it in a dark place for a few weeks, shaking daily to agitate the mixture.

You can also choose to leave the jar in the sun to heat infuse for the first few days. Be sure to move it to a cool, dark location for the remainder of the infusing time.

After 4-6 weeks, strain the oil and use it as is, or try melting in some beeswax and essential oils to make an herbal salve. This can be stored in tins or jars in a cool, dark place.

Garden Use

It only makes sense that a plant with so many therapeutic medicinal uses would be restorative for the garden as well. And yarrow is an amazing plant to incorporate in gardens for a variety of reasons.

This plant has extensive roots that draw nutrients from deep within the soil.

It can bring potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, and copper to the surface, improving the soil quality for other plants when used as a mulch material or added to the compost pile.

Some gardeners also use yarrow instead of comfrey to make a tea fertilizer to apply as a soil conditioner.

Because it is drought tolerant and can grow in poor, dry soils, it is also useful for combating erosion. It is sometimes even used as a drought tolerant lawn replacement in xeriscaping.

And that’s not all!

The beautiful flowers attract beneficial insects such as predatory wasps, which eat common garden pests and pollinate other plants.

For these reasons, it is often included in butterfly and wildlife gardens, and native plant displays.

Ornamental Use

Thanks to its beauty and general popularity, yarrow has been bred to create several breathtaking cultivars for ornamental use.

It adds interest to perennial borders, and the flowers make a delightful addition to cut flower arrangements.

There are a number of lovely varieties available to add color and charm to your garden.

A. millefolium Pastel Mix

You can find packages of 1,000 A. millefolium seeds in a mix of colors including coral, gold, ivory, lilac, pink, rose, and yellow available at True Leaf Market.

A. millefolium var. rubra

Or, to enjoy bright red flowers with delicate yellow centers,  A. millefolium var. rubra seeds are available in a variety of packet sizes from Eden Brothers.

A. millefolium – Common Yarrow

And don’t forget to plant some of the traditional white-flowered variety.

It is beautiful, resilient, and medicinal. Seeds are available at True Leaf Market in 1- or 4-ounce packets.

Read about more of our favorite varieties of yarrow and where to find them here.

More Than Meets the Eye

Whether you are growing it for its medicinal value, benefits to your garden, beautiful flowers, or a combination of all these, yarrow is truly a miraculous plant that you don’t want to miss out on!

What are your favorite uses for yarrow? Let us know in the comments below!

And to learn more about growing medicinal plants in your garden, you’ll need these guides next:

Are your homegrown carrots forked, branching, twisted, or knobby? While they may make for amusing photos, these deformed vegetables can make food preparation a challenge – try turning a twisted carrot into carrot sticks!

These odd-shaped vegetables can also be a sign of serious garden problems. But what causes these deformed veggies?

There are many different factors that can cause twisted, forked, and asymmetrical roots – ranging from how you prepare your soil to nasty garden pests, and including several other unfavorable conditions.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

While you can’t straighten a carrot out once it gets wonky, you can learn how to prevent deformities and produce a nice straight root crop in your next growing season.

I’m going to cover nine causes for deformed carrot roots – and ways you can prevent them. Here’s what’s ahead:

Are Deformed Carrots Edible?

Before we get to our main purpose, let’s get the question of edibility out of the way, because I’m guessing this question is going to pop into your head at some point before we get to the end of the article if it hasn’t already.

In most cases, yes, your wacky looking carrot roots are edible. There are a few exceptions, however, and I’ll let you know about them along the way.

While the less than perfect looking roots are excellent for chopping and adding to soups or stews, there’s something satisfying about harvesting a crop that looks just like what’s pictured on your seed packet.

As long as they’re otherwise healthy, don’t let those more unusual specimens go to waste! Just follow our tips to plan ahead for next year if more uniform roots are what you’re after.

Soil Preparation

As a carrot root grows, it is highly sensitive to soil conditions.

Its growing tip will detect any obstacle it encounters and change its path accordingly. If a carrot could talk, it might say something like this:

“Rock? Must be going the wrong way. Clod? Time to change directions. Hard soil? Hmm, maybe I’ll make a U-turn…”

These veggies are also very sensitive to nitrogen and react to this macronutrient in ways that won’t please most gardeners.

So, to give your crop the best start, you’ll need to begin with your soil.

Heavy Soil

If you begin with compacted or heavy clay soils, you’ll celebrate your fall harvest with a small crop of short, stumpy carrot roots.

J. Lipiec, V. V. Mendvedev, et al, the authors of an article in International Agrophysics published in 2003, describe soil compaction, primarily caused by the use of heavy machinery, as producing smaller yields of carrots with a high proportion of stunted and deformed roots.

And soil compaction can happen no matter what type of soil you have.

To keep your soil loose, avoid walking on your planting rows or beds. Instead, walk only between rows or around beds.

You might also want to consider no-till gardening, which doesn’t introduce heavy machinery into your growing space.

Also, certain types of soil are better than others for growing carrots. According to Jill MacKenzie at the University of Minnesota Extension, the best soil for this purpose is sandy loam.

If you’re starting off with compacted and/or heavy clay soil, improve it by working some compost and sand into it before you plant.

You’ll need your soil to be loose to the same depth as the mature carrots you intend to grow. If you are growing 12-inch roots, you’ll need 12 inches of loose soil.

And if you’re not sure what kind of soil you have, consider doing a soil test.

Another solution when planting in heavy clay soils is to simply choose a more suitable carrot variety.

If you have clay soil, grow shorter, blunt-tipped varieties for the best success, such as the ‘Little Fingers’ cultivar.

‘Little Fingers’

Seeds are available from True Leaf Market.

Rocks and Clods

Rocks and clods of dirt in the soil can also be problematic, causing carrot roots to grow crooked or to branch.

When you prepare your beds for planting, sift through your soil and remove any rocks, clods, sticks, or large pieces of organic matter that have not broken down.

Are you planting varieties that can grow 12 inches long? Then you will need to do this to a depth of 12 inches.

If your soil is simply too rocky, grow these veggies in raised beds prepared with bagged garden soil with sand mixed into it instead.

Too Much Nitrogen

Many of your garden plants need lots of nitrogen while they are growing. But this is not so with carrots.

In a study conducted by M. Moniruzzaman and other members of the Department of Agriculture at Sher-e-Bangla Agricultural University and published in The Agriculturists in 2013, the authors describe an experiment on the effects of nitrogen applications and branching in carrot crops.

Wonder what they found? The highest dose of nitrogen resulted in the most branching, and no dose of nitrogen resulted in the least amount of branching.

This means that when using manure to fertilize this crop, make sure to only use well-aged manure. Fresh manure contains more nitrogen – promoting branching, forking, and hairy roots.

If you tend to use commercial fertilizer, University of Maryland extension specialist Jon Traunfeld and co-authors recommend working a balanced fertilizer (5-10-10) into the soil prior to planting seeds.

A lower ratio of nitrogen (N) to phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) is recommended for growing root vegetables, fruits, and flowers, versus leafy greens and ornamentals that require more nitrogen to put into leaf production.

But before you fertilize, why not test your soil? This way you’ll be sure of what your soil is offering your crop in terms of nitrogen (which these veggies don’t need much of) and phosphorus (which they do).

Growing Care

Your preventive measures don’t stop with soil prep.

While your crop is growing, there are a few ways you can keep your carrot roots on the straight and narrow, including making sure they have the space they need.

Dense Plantings

This brings us to another cause of odd-shaped carrot roots: growing plants together too densely.

F. K. Appiah, J. Sarkodie-Addo, and A. Opoku, the authors of an article published in the Journal of Biology, Agriculture and Healthcare in 2017, found a clear relationship between plant density and number of deformed roots – the higher the density, the more deformities they found.

Carrot seeds are typically sown heavily, because of their typically low and slow germination rates.

To prevent twisty-turny veggies, seedlings will need to be thinned when they are 3-4 inches tall.

Otherwise, they will end up twisting around each other and forking rather than growing straight. To learn how to thin your carrot seedlings, refer to our growing guide.

Weeds

Just as close proximity to other carrots can cause twisting and branching, weeds have underground roots that can get in the way of growth as well, and they will also compete for nutrients.

Make sure to keep your beds weeded throughout the growing season, so that weeds don’t interfere with your root crop.

Transplanting

Let’s say you’ve started growing a bunch of carrots in a container – which is a valid option if you do it right.

Once they begin to take off in Potville or Planterland, you’re not going to want to transplant them to Gardenbedia.

Why? You guessed it: the roots will fork.

This is due to the fact that these plants are highly sensitive to disturbance.

So far you’ve learned that they don’t like rocks, they don’t like clods, they don’t like too much nitrogen, they don’t like weeds, and they don’t like sharing their space.

Well, they don’t like to be transplanted either, which is why they are usually sown directly in the garden.

When you sow your seeds, choose a location or container where you can let them keep growing in the same spot until they’re ready to harvest.

In USDA Hardiness Zones 1-2, where the growing season may not be long enough to grow carrots from seed outdoors, consider starting seedlings in biodegradable pots that can be carefully planted directly in your garden soil.

Second Growing Season

There’s another cause of branching carrot roots that might not occur to you at first thought.

These plants are biennials, similar to a variety of other edible crops including kale, meaning their growth will continue through two seasons. So, is your crop in its first year, or its second year of growth?

If your plants have already gone through their first growing season, followed by overwintering in the ground, and are starting a second growing season, they are now in seed-making mode.

During their second growing season, as they flower and begin to produce seed, they may put out secondary roots from the taproot (the part we like to eat), changing your long cylindrical root into a branched oddity.

The solution to this one? Harvest your carrot crop before it starts its second growing season.

Unless you are saving part of your crop for seed, you will want to harvest before your carrots begin their second growing season anyway.

These plants will move their energy into flower and seed production, and the roots will become pithy and less tasty than they would have been if picked earlier.

You may also wait to harvest your crop until after autumn’s cooler temps have a chance to sweeten your roots, or at the end of winter, but keep an eye on the weather and be sure to pick them before spring spurs new above-ground growth if you go with this option.

If flower production has already begun, this is case number one where you will want to forego eating your deformed carrots.

Consider allowing them to continue their growth cycle and collect seeds from pollinated plants for planting next season instead of enjoying the vegetable roots in your cooking.

Pests and Disease

I’ve covered several common and fairly easy ways to keep these root veggies straight and get them off to a good start. Now, here comes the trickier part: battling with the less easily controlled forces of carrot pests and disease.

Root-Knot Nematodes

Would you have ever imagined that microscopic worms could cause your carrots to branch? While it’s not a pretty picture to bring to mind, they can and they do.

Luckily these worms, called root-knot nematodes (Meloidogyne spp.), also make their presence known through small galls or knots on the roots. I say luckily, because if you have a problem with these pests, this sign will help you to correctly identify them.

Though infected plant tops often look wilted or stunted, sometimes the symptoms of this pest are totally invisible above ground.

You may not know you have a root-knot nematode problem until harvest time, when you discover what’s been hiding underground – knobby, hairy, deformed roots.

Root-knot nematodes are plant parasites that feed on root tissue, and they are more commonly found in sandy soils – just the place where carrots like to grow.

Once nematodes have infested carrot roots, there is no treatment except to remove infected plants. The best remedy will be preventing these pests from attacking your next crop.

In the meantime, if you find yourself with these pests in your garden, here are a few ways to stop them from setting up camp permanently:

• Remove all infected plant material. Start by removing and throwing away all infected plants and debris – don’t compost it. You don’t want to take any chances with these pests spreading to the rest of your garden.
• Don’t spread infected soil. Be careful not to inadvertently spread soil from an infected area to other areas of the garden via tools or equipment. Make sure to clean these after using them in infected areas.
• Harvest your spring crop early. Root-knot nematodes are most active at temperatures over 70°F, and inactive below 60°F, so harvesting their food source early will keep populations low and prevent a population explosion.

• Rotate the infected area with non-host plants. Root-knot nematodes will only live in your garden as long as they have something to eat. Unfortunately, most of your garden crops are on their menu. What they can’t eat are plants in the cabbage family (kale, broccoli, collards, cauliflower, mustard), grass family (wheat, rye, oats, millet, sorghum), hairy vetch, and asparagus.
• Interplant and/or rotate with marigolds. Marigolds keep nematode populations in check, which is one reason I always grow these beneficial companion plants throughout my garden. After a nematode infestation, put in an uninterrupted planting of marigolds in the infected area. For this purpose, Nancy Doubrava and James H. Blake at the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center recommend spacing plants no more than seven inches apart.

• Add organic matter. Adding compost to the infected area can help increase beneficial microorganisms and lower root-knot nematode populations.
• Till your garden. Tilling will bring root-knot nematodes to the surface, where they will be more readily exposed to weather extremes and die. On the other hand, this may also destroy and disturb beneficial organisms (and cause soil compaction and forked roots as mentioned above), so reserve this option as a last line of defense.

Now, if you’re wondering whether you can eat crops damaged by these pests, rest assured that root-knot nematodes are plant parasites that don’t target humans.

However, these pests can cause damage so severe that the best place for a badly infected crop will be the trash bin.

In the case of less affected crops, remove all galls and damaged areas, and as an extra measure of hygiene, cook the carrots well – temperatures of 140°F will kill the pests.

Aster Yellows Phytoplasma

If you think the root-knot nematode sounds pretty bad, brace yourself, because it’s about to get a lot worse.

Another cause of hairy, distorted roots in this garden vegetable is a disease spread by the aster leafhopper (Macrosteles quadrilineatus).

This unwitting insect feeds on a wide variety of plants, sucking sap here and there.

And if it happens to eat from a plant infected with the aster yellows phytoplasma, it will transmit this disease to each plant it puts its mouth on.

The list of other plants susceptible to this disease is too long to cite here, but includes a huge number of edibles and ornamentals.

Aster yellows phytoplasma is harbored by broadleaf weeds such as dandelion and plantain – so one means of prevention is to keep your garden and surrounding area clear of these weeds.

Cool, wet summers offer the most favorable conditions for both the aster leafhopper and the phytoplasma, so keep a lookout for symptoms in carrot leaves during periods of summer with this type of weather in particular.

Along with deformed roots, some of the other symptoms of this disease are pale, yellow leaves with green veins, curling foliage, and deformed flowers.

One way to keep aster leafhoppers away from your crops is to mulch with aluminum foil or oat straw, which will reflect sunlight more than your garden soil, dissuading these bugs from visiting your plants.

You can also grow your crop under row covers to keep leafhoppers away.

Once you have diagnosed a problem with this disease, remove affected plants immediately (including any other infected ornamentals or garden veggies) and dispose of them in the trash.

Carrot roots affected by this disease will become bitter, so don’t bother trying to eat them.

Quick Guide to Preventing and Identifying Causes

Recipe Ideas for Enjoying Deformed Carrots

If you’ve already got a harvest of otherwise healthy forked or twisted carrots on hand, why not go ahead and use them in the kitchen?

There are endless ways you can sneak these goofy garden veggies into your culinary creations – and nobody will know the difference.

If you chop, shred, dice, or puree your wacky roots, they will be transformed into just another ingredient, with that sweet flavor that you crave.

We’re Straight Rooting for You

You should be well-equipped now to grow your next batch of carrots without the twisting, branching, or forking you may have seen in the past.

Remember to prepare your soil properly, don’t let your beds get too crowded, and keep an eye out for signs of pests and disease.

From the Latin lupus, a wolf (destroyer), because it was thought that the plants depleted the fertility of the soil by sheer numbers (Leguminosae).  Lupine. A genus of over 300 species of annuals, perennials, and subshrubs, mainly from North America, though there are a few Mediterranean species which, since Roman times, have been used for green manuring. This is surprising since the Roman farmers did not know that within the root nodules were colonies of bacteria capable of utilizing nitrogen to produce valuable nitrates. The fine Russell hybrid lupines are among the showiest of herbaceous perennials and have a wide color range embracing the three primary colors: red, yellow and blue. They do not, however, thrive on alkaline (chalky or limy) soils.

Perennial species cultivated

L. nootkatensis, 1 foot, blue, purple and yellow, May-July, north-west America.

L. polyphyllus, 4 feet, blue, white or pink, June-August, California. Shrubby:

L. arboreus, 6 feet, short-lived, yellow, white or violet, fragrant, summer, California.

L. excubicus, 1-5 feet, blue, violet, summer, California; var. hallii (syn. L. paynei), larger flowers.

Russell hybrids

These well-loved hybrids have developed from a cross made at the end of the last century between L. arboreus and L. polyphyllus. Some years later a seedling with rose-pink flowers appeared, L. p. roseus, and with the help of this, Mr George Russell was able to develop and select the superb colors and strong spikes that are available today in the now famous Russell strain.

Some good cultivars are:

‘Betty Astell’, 3 feet, deep pink; ‘Blue Jacket’, 3 feet, deep blue and white;

`Fireglow’, 3 feet, orange and gold;

‘George Russell’, 4 feet, pink and cream;

‘Gladys Cooper’, 4-5 feet, smoky blue;

‘Joan of York‘, 4 feet, cerise and pink;

‘Josephine’, 4 feet, slate blue and yellow;

‘Lady Diana Abdy’, 3 feet, blue and white;

‘Lady Fayne’, 3 feet, coral and rose;

‘Lilac Time’, 3 feet, rosy-lilac;

‘Mrs Micklethwaite’, 3 feet, salmon-pink and gold;

‘Mrs Noel Terry‘, 3 feet, pink and cream;

‘Thundercloud‘, 3 feet, blue and rose-mauve.

Cultivation 

The most popular section is that of the perennial species, which are easily grown in any sunny border that has not too much lime or chalk. Mulch with compost in spring and cut down the old flower stems in October.

The Russell lupines are now available from seed, though the named forms are still raised from cuttings of young growths in March. These are not among the longest-lived plants and it is wise to renew them from time to time. Since they may be raised from seed sown in drills inch deep in April and put in their final places in the autumn. Many will flower during the following summer.

The tree lupine, L. arboreus, may be raised from seed with extreme ease. These shrubs make rapid growth, and will flower in their second season. They are, however, not long-lived, but generally manage to renew themselves by self-sown seedlings. The shrubby lupine, L. excubicus, makes a fine large plant, but needs some frost protection. Like most lupines, this has very fragrant flowers

How to Grow Lupines

Lupinus (lu-py-nus)

1. Birkenstock Super-Birki Unisex Clog

This unisex high-grip clog is from the Birkenstock Professional Collection of footwear.

It’s made of vegan-friendly, anatomically-shaped polyurethane and is certified occupational footwear in accordance with EN ISO 20347:2012 OB E (SRC category).

This means it has deep treads for excellent traction, and has been tested on ceramic wetted with diluted soap, and steel wetted with glycerol, for use in culinary and medical settings.

It resists abrasions, dirt, grease, oil, and water, and the sole has a tread pattern designed to provide slip resistance and easy dirt release.

Birkenstock Unisex Clogs Super-Birki in Raspberry Sorbet

If you’ve never had washable garden shoes before, you’re going to love these Birkis. Drenched, muddied, and covered with grass? No problem. And they’re so colorful, you’ll want to wear them with your favorite outfits, too.

Inside this functional and fashionable clog is an anatomically-shaped cork-latex footbed with a woven acrylic lining that absorbs moisture and provides exceptional arch support with minimal cushioning, in keeping with the classic, or “regular” Birkenstock style.

Cleanup is easy: simply remove the footbed and wash the clogs in water up to 176°F, with or without disinfectant. Wash the footbed in water up to 86°F.

Birkenstock Unisex Clogs Super-Birki in Apple Green

Choose from an array of colors. Per customer service, a pair of women’s Super- Birki’s in size six weighs approximately one pound. Birkenstocks are made in Germany.

Exceptional Features:

• Birkenstock durability
• Plentiful color choices
• Replaceable footbed
• Hot water washable

Potential Drawbacks:

• May leave ankles vulnerable to injury
• Foot may slip from clog with sudden movement
• Minimal cushioning

The unisex Super-Birki is available in eight colors including apple green, blue, black, brown, green, raspberry sorbet, red, and white. It’s available in whole sizes only.

Replacement footbeds and maintenance products are available from Birkenstock.

Check prices and read customer reviews on Amazon now.

2. Crocs Crocband Unisex Clog

The Crocs brand has become synonymous with long-wearing comfort, and this unisex clog is no exception.

It’s made entirely of a lightweight closed-cell foam resin that is the property of Crocs, called Croslite™. The fit is snug and the feel is soft and supportive.

Crocs Crocband Unisex Clog in Stucco/Melon

Choose from an array of hues with contrasting bands of color in retro-sneaker style.

Each has a pivoting heel strap that swings backwards for added support, or forward for slip-on ease. Enjoy secure footing on a footbed comprised of tiny bumps that inhibit slipping when wet.

This Crocs clog makes a great summer garden shoe. Stepped in the mud? No problem. Just hose off and keep right on going, clean and cool all day long.

Crocs Crocband Unisex Clog in Charcoal/Ocean

Per Crocs customer service, this clog weighs an average of just over six ounces per shoe with some slight variation depending on the size, so light it’s buoyant.

Ventilation ports allow for comfortable airflow, and the heavy-duty tread is designed to provide solid traction and release soil easily. This product is completely washable.

Exceptional Features:

• Plenty of color choices
• Flexible
• Lightweight
• Optional heel strap
• Patented cushion comfort
• Ventilated

Potential Drawbacks:

• Clog may leave heel vulnerable to injury

The Crocs Crocband™ Unisex Clog is available from Amazon in 15 solid colors and color combinations including black, charcoal/ocean, khaki/navy, lavender/purple, melon/ice blue, navy/citrus, new mint/tropical teal, pearl pink/wild orchid, pomegranate/rose dust, and white.

Available in whole sizes only, the manufacturer recommends ordering a size up if you need to.

Crocs Kids’ Crocband Clog in Lavender/Neon Purple

A similar shoe is also available for children, the Crocs Kid Crocband™ Clog. You can find it on Amazon.

Check prices and read customer reviews now on Amazon.

3. Dansko Kane Women’s Clog

Tired of heavy gardening shoes? Try the Kane clogs from Dansko.

These mule-style clogs are extremely lightweight, made of over 50 percent bio-based EVA sourced from renewable sugar cane. And the removable cushioned footbed is made of the same light and eco-friendly material.

Dansko Kane in Pineapples

They offer better arch support than we’ve seen in most shoes of this style, with Dansko’s Natural Arch® technology. And treads on the bottom help to prevent slips on wet grass.

The uppers are perforated along the side so they’re not fully waterproof, but this helps to provide some ventilation in the summer heat.

Easy to slide on and off and wipe clean, you’ll want to keep a pair of these by the back door so they’re ready to go whenever you need them.

Dansko Kane in Flower Party

Available in European whole sizes, it’s easy to compare to your US size to find the best fit. Choose from various colors and patterns including purple and light blue tie dye, pineapples, and multicolored Flower Party.

Exceptional Features:

• Made of eco-friendly materials
• Removeable insole with arch support
• Extremely lightweight
• Ventilated to keep feet cool

Potential Drawbacks:

• Not fully waterproof
• Don’t provide ankle or toe protection

Check current prices and find your size now on Amazon.

4. Hunter Women’s Gardener Clog

Hunter has been producing boots and shoes since the 1800s, and this high-grip garden clog lives up to the company’s reputation for quality and durability.

This attractive matte-finish model is handcrafted of vulcanized natural rubber, for maximum flexibility and a waterproof exterior. (Natural rubber is the most flexible kind.)

Hunter Women’s Garden Clog in Dark Olive/Clay

The inside is lined with neoprene, or synthetic rubber, for warmth. There’s also a three-millimeter neoprene insole to cushion the foot.

This shoe offers the slip-on-and-off convenience of a lightweight clog with the solid feel you’d expect to find in a work boot, and thanks to the high grip, it’s got you covered on dry or wet ground.

The outsole consists of a “field tread” with excellent traction that readily releases debris and mud. Wash with water, and maintain with Hunter Boot Shine and Rubber Boot Buffer, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Hunter Women’s Garden Clog in Vintage Green

Per Hunter, the heel height is approximately two centimeters (0.79 inches) and each pair weighs about 1.37 kilograms, or a little over three pounds. Hunter Boot Ltd. is based in Scotland.

Exceptional Features:

• Flexible natural rubber
• Field tread
• Neoprene insulation

Potential Drawbacks:

• High-grip clog may leave upper heel vulnerable to injury
• May be too warm for all-day summer wear

The Hunter Women’s Garden Clog is available in dark olive/clay and vintage green. It comes in whole sizes only. Men’s sizes are available in this style as well, direct from the manufacturer.

Check prices and read customer reviews now on Terrain.

5. Jambu Women’s JBU Gwen Garden Ready Duck Shoe

This slip-on duck-style shoe is perfect for light gardening or a stroll over dewy grass.

The upper is made of water-resistant rubber, and the inside is ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) with a memory foam insole, for a vegan-friendly product.

Jambu Women’s JBU Gwen Garden Ready Duck Shoe in Gray/Light Blue Floral

An array of color choices are available. Each has faux suede or faux leather trim, depending upon your choice of shoe, that is adorned with eyelets and a tied shoelace in typical duck fashion.

This is the type of shoe you want to keep handy for a quick run into the garden, perhaps with the dog, or the trash, or to pull those weeds you just can’t leave until after you get back from work.

It has a patented All-Terra™ Traction slip-resistant rubber outsole that is made of partially recycled, compressed rubber that is long-lasting, won’t mark surfaces, ensures secure footing, and releases soil easily. These have a half-inch heel.

Jambu Women’s JBU Gwen Garden Ready Duck Shoe in Whiskey/Navy Floral

This is a very lightweight shoe that weighs only 12.34 ounces per pair. Arch support is minimal. A Microban® antimicrobial treatment inhibits odors.

The insoles are removable, and the manufacturer recommends hand washing them with dish detergent and a soft toothbrush.

Exceptional Features:

• Plenty of color choices
• Lightweight
• Patented non-slip sole
• Removable, washable insoles

Potential Drawbacks:

• Faux suede/leather may stain
• Minimal arch support

The Jambu Women’s JBU Gwen Garden Ready Duck Shoe is available in blush floral, gray/stone blue solid, honeydew floral, navy/lilac floral, navy/whiskey floral, and stone blue floral.

Half sizes are available, and the manufacturer recommends ordering a half size up from what you normally wear, as these run small.

Check prices on Amazon now.

6. Joules Women’s Wellibob Rain Boot

Made from 100 percent rubber, these ankle-height waterproof boots are available in a variety of fun, hand-drawn designs.

The hard-wearing outsole features deep lugs for excellent traction, and a slightly elevated heel makes them stylish as well as practical.

Joules Women’s Wellibob Rain Boot – Yellow Bees

The elasticated side gussets and a tab at the back of the boot makes slipping them on and off a breeze, and the removable faux fur insole keeps your feet warm and toasty on those cooler days.

With a comfortable fit and arch support, these low rise boots are ideal for gardening chores in wet weather and even walking the dog!

The fit is roomy, and the manufacturer recommends ordering a size down if you are in between sizes.

Exceptional Features:

• Cute designs
• Comfortable fit
• Fully waterproof
• Easy to slip on and off

Potential Drawbacks:

• Sizing runs slightly large

You can choose from 12 different designs: yellow with bees, black with bugs, navy florals, navy spot, black metallic bees, navy beach dogs, French navy stripe, navy rose gingham, navy vegetable, navy ducks, khaki chickens, and tan leopard.

Check out the fun prints and find your size now on Amazon.

7. Kujo Yardwear Kujo Yard Shoe for Men and Women

This innovative product by Kujo Yardwear is called a “hybrid” work shoe because it combines the durability and water resistance of a work boot with the flexibility, light weight, and ventilation of a sneaker.

It’s part of an exciting line launched originally on Kickstarter by Shawn Langton, whose years of lawn and garden work inspired him to partner with his sister, Kelsey Langton Martin, and brother-in-law, Craig Martin, to create the “ultimate yard shoe.”

The Kujo Yardwear company is based in Michigan.

Kujo Yardwear Kujo Yard Shoe in Gray/Green

Landscapers love this shoe because it stays dry during early morning work, and the cut grass just slips right off after a job of mowing.

And, without the weight of a heavy work boot, there’s less strain on the back and legs. All this, and the look of an attractive sneaker at day’s end, make for a truly unique yard shoe.

Tough and easy on the eyes, the Kujo features a quarter-inch rubber sole with six-millimeter lugs and grip pods for excellent traction, firm pressure on a shovel, and easy dirt release. The grooves in the tread flex for optimal mobility.

The toe cap is reinforced with segmented polyurethane (SPU) for optimal resistance to abrasion and water.

Arch support is also top notch, with a quarter-inch-thick ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) midsole and a removable insole that cushions the foot and inhibits fatigue.

The manufacturer does not sell replacement insoles, but advises that customers may insert their own, which is particularly useful for those who require the orthotic type.

Kujo Yardwear Kujo Yard Shoe in Black

An exclusive feature is the “flex window” of air mesh between the laces and toe, for added flexibility and air circulation.

The sides of these shoes are also made of air mesh to provide the airflow needed to stay cool and dry. There’s also an inner lining that inhibits soil and water penetration.

A trim of “sonic welds” compresses the air mesh and provides added strength in the lace eyelet and collar areas. And an antimicrobial padded collar reduces the buildup of bacteria around the ankle.

This product fits snugly, and has a pull tab to aid with putting them on and taking them off at the end of a long gardening session. Per the manufacturer, each weighs between 12 and 18 ounces, for a total weight of approximately two pounds.

Exceptional Features:

• Air circulation
• Flexible
• Lightweight
• Lug traction sole
• Multiple color options

Potential Drawbacks:

The Kujo Yardwear Kujo Yard Shoe is available from Amazon in black, black/green, gray/green and gray/purple. It comes in half and whole sizes.

8. Men’s Mossy Oak® Country DNA™ MUCKSTER Lite Clog

No hands are needed to slip into these stylish one-piece molded garden clogs that are comfortable enough to wear all day in the spring-to-fall garden.

They’re made from a single piece of eco-friendly Bio Lite injection molded EVA foam, and are Green Leaf-certified biodegradable (ASTM D5511-18 / ISO 15985-14).

Men’s Mossy Oak® Country DNA™ MUCKSTER Lite Clog

This is a lightweight product that is 50 percent lighter than standard foam clogs, so your feet feel like they’re floating on a cushion of air.

A textured insole affords stability while breathable side ports let air in while keeping water and debris out, to keep your feet cool and clean.

SRC-rated slip resistance and multi-surface traction mean you’re on sure footing every step of the way through the garden and beyond.

Exceptional Features:

• All-day wear
• Breathable
• Easy to clean
• Environmentally friendly
• Flexible
• Lightweight
• Slip-resistant with multi-surface traction

Potential Drawbacks:

• Expensive
• May slip off during strenuous activity

Check prices and read reviews now at the Original Muck Boot Company.

9. Muck Boot Men’s Muckster II Ankle

The Muck Boot Men’s Muckster II Ankle is a versatile ankle boot that’s perfect for those wet, muddy days. The waterproof rubber outer extends into a flexible ankle cuff made from neoprene.

They’re easy to get in and out of and the roomy cuff allows you to tuck in your pant legs, protecting the hems from mud and debris.

Muck Boot Men’s Muckster II Ankle Boot in Moss Green

The molded rubber sole has adequate traction to keep you upright in moderately slippery conditions and the neoprene air mesh interior allows for some breathability.

Ideal for conditions where you need a bit more than a shoe, but don’t require full-length boots, each Muckster Ankle boot weighs just 21 ounces.

Muck Boot Men’s Muckster II Ankle Boot in Bark/Otter

The traction is “self-cleaning” with shallow lugs that won’t hold the dirt, and a light hose-down will keep them looking shipshape.

They don’t provide as much foot support as a more snug-fitting ankle boot as the cuff is roomy and flexible, rather than rigid, so if you’re stomping up and down muddy hillsides the Muckster may not be the best option.

If you’re looking for a waterproof, lightweight, comfortable option the Muckster II Men’s Ankle boot fits the bill.

Exceptional Features:

• Lightweight
• Fully waterproof
• Breathable air mesh interior
• Ankle protection

Potential Drawbacks:

• Traction a bit light for very slippery conditions
• Lack of foot support

The Muckster II Ankle is available in moss green and bark/otter brown from The Original Muck Boot Company and via Amazon.

Want more information? See our in depth review of these boots here.

10. Sloggers Waterproof Rain and Garden Shoe for Men and Women

This garden shoe is made of waterproof resin that is 100 percent recyclable and composed largely of recycled materials (50 percent in the sole, 100 percent in the upper), making it environmentally-friendly.

Sloggers Women’s Waterproof Rain and Garden Shoe in Blue Fresh Cut Print

For wear throughout a day of routine garden maintenance, this shoe can’t be beat. Whether you’re digging, mowing, planting, or pruning you’ll have the support and comfort you require.

And if you have to run an errand, simply hose off and go. Functional and fashionable – what more do you need?

Sloggers Men’s Waterproof Rain and Garden Shoe in Brown

This Sloggers product features an “All-Day Comfort” insole that is formed, unlike many flat insoles, to cradle your foot and provide a firm base for actions like pushing down on a shovel.

The insole includes a molded arch, seven-millimeter-thick heel, and five-millimeter-thick ball support.

But don’t let this pretty shoe fool you. In addition to protecting your foot in comfort and style, it’s a workhorse. A heavy-duty lug tread yields excellent traction and enables easy soil release.

Sloggers Women’s Waterproof Rain and Garden Shoe in Hummingbird Blue/Pink

At the end of a satisfying day in the garden, simply hose or wipe off and air dry. Replacement insoles are available from the manufacturer, and worn-out shoes may be sent to Sloggers to be recycled.

Choose from assorted solid colors and adorable patterns. A pair of women’s size 8 shoes weighs approximately one pound. Sloggers are made in the USA.

Exceptional Features:

• Plenty of color choices
• Comfort insole
• Heel protection
• Recycled content

Potential Drawbacks:

• May be too warm for all-day summer wear

The Sloggers Women’s Waterproof Rain and Garden Shoe is available from Amazon in 23 colors and patterns including black pansy, blue swirls, California dreaming, casual floral charcoal, classic black, flower power, midsummer blue, paisley red, pansy turquoise, rose swirls, and white.

The Sloggers Men’s Waterproof Rain and Garden Shoe is also available from Amazon, in black and brown.

It comes in whole sizes and fits true to size. The manufacturer suggests that those who wear half sizes should order up, or purchase Sloggers Cut-To-Fit Half Sizer Insoles, available from Amazon.

11. TideWe Mid Calf Rubber Boot for Women

There’s a steel shank for arch support and comfort during activities like pushing down on a shovel or pitchfork.

TideWe Mid Calf Rubber Boot for Women in Plaid

The deep lug outsole is slip-resistant for traction on wet ground. A reinforced rubber shell features tough heels and toes for extra protection during the heaviest work, as well as flexible bending for hunkering down.

This is a cool-weather, mid-calf boot rated for use in -4 to 68°F weather that retains heat while allowing the feet to breathe.

TideWe Mid Calf Rubber Boot for Women in Black

Use the loop to slip into your TideWes the next time you’re setting a new shrub, watering, and tamping down muddy soil. Warm, dry, and solid underfoot, they’re so attractive, it’s almost a shame to get them dirty!

At day’s end, use the handy kick tab to slip out, and rinse and air dry your boots for next time.

Exceptional Features:

• Comfort insole
• Complete foot, ankle, and calf coverage
• Flexibility
• Lug traction sole
• Multiple color choices
• Reinforced heel and toe
• Steel shank for solid footing

Potential Drawbacks:

• Easy cleanup
• Likely too warm for summer use

Check prices and read customer reviews now on Amazon.

TideWe makes a full line of boots for men and women who love to spend time outdoors.

12. Tingley Flite Unisex Safety Toe Boot

The name Tingley has been associated with expertly crafted waterproof footwear and garments since the 1800s, so you can be certain you’re getting a quality product with this rugged work boot.

Tingley Flite Unisex Safety Toe Boot in Blue

Here is the workhorse you want to turn to after a storm, when the yard is full of mud and limbs need hauling and cutting.

Or, for when you have to clear a field, muck out stalls, wrestle with poison ivy, hardscape, or apply chemicals.

Anytime you’re in over your ankles, you’ll be glad to have the protection of a Tingley boot.

This knee-height model is 15 inches tall and a pair weighs eight pounds. It features a patented design called Calf-Relief Topline (CRT)™ with a comfortable shape and ample calf space.

The upper is constructed from a solid piece of Aerex 1.5.5™, a patented microcellular polymer that is 100 percent waterproof and more than 40 percent lighter than most steel-toe and rubber boots with similar dimensions.

The manufacturer states, “A one-pound reduction in footwear weight is like five pounds off your back and five percent less energy expended.”

Aerex 1.5.5™ is a material that contains little air bubbles that insulate, keeping out cold or heat as the weather indicates.

It resists caustic and greasy substances, for easy cleanup after a day of heavy work. A beveled heel cushions the foot and minimizes back and leg stress. Its heavy-duty tread is “self-cleaning” and readily releases debris when a job is done.

The toe is made of steel for optimal safety, and meets the PT certification for protective toe cap footwear.

This boot also meets ET certification standards for electrical safety, as it contains no nails. In addition, it doesn’t set off metal detectors, a convenience appreciated by those who landscape protected public spaces. Tingley products are made in the USA.

Exceptional Features:

• Heavy duty
• Resistant to caustic materials
• Safety toe

Potential Drawbacks:

• May be too heavy for routine garden use
• May be too warm for all day summer wear

The Flite® Safety Toe Boot with Chevron-Plus® Outsole is available via Amazon in black or blue, and comes in men’s whole sizes only.

The manufacturer recommends that women should deduct two sizes from their normal shoe size when ordering.

13. Western Chief Women’s Garden Clog

Founded in Seattle in 1891, Western Chief specializes in outdoor wear for the whole family. And their classic women’s clog is sure to satisfy, available in a variety of colors and patterns.

Easy to step in and out of for a quick visit to the garden, they’ll protect your feet from morning dew and light rain.

Made of high-quality rubber, these clogs feature an insulated neoprene lining, a removable molded EVA insole, and a self-cleaning calendar rubber outsole.

Black Clog in Blooming Garden

And let’s talk about these treads for a second – the sole provides a bit of traction to prevent slips while releasing dirt and mud readily, so you can tromp back inside again without having to worry too much about dirtying the floors.

With a comfortably wide footbed, the insoles can also be replaced with your choice of product for a custom fit, if you have a favorite insole that you prefer to use.

Yellow Clog In the Garden

Choose from floral, polka dot, checkerboard, and whimsical garden-themed patterns including hand tools, watering cans, and potted plants.

Though these don’t provide ankle or toe protection, they have become my daughter’s favorite gardening clogs over the years, and they make a lovely gift.

Exceptional Features:

• Bold, colorful patterns
• Removable insole
• Self-cleaning rubber outsole

Potential Drawbacks:

• Do not provide ankle or toe protection

Check for your size and pick your favorite pattern now on Amazon.

Happy Feet

If you find yourself with a collection of “garden shoes,” muddied and ruined after too many spur-of-the-moment sessions on the back forty, hurry and order your favorites, before you destroy another pair!

Each of these 13 products offers outstanding value to the home gardener. Get the most out of yours by keeping them in a handy place and washing them after each use.

Be sure to air dry your new favorite garden footwear in a location that’s out of direct sunlight, to keep materials such as cork, resin, and rubber from breaking down.

For added protection, apply an appropriate product to protect your new purchase, according to the manufacturer’s directions.

I knew it was time for me to acquire a pair or two when I realized I had a collection of stiff, mud-caked shoes in the shed that had become home to our resident wolf spiders.

They were right next to a pair of leather dress gloves I’d inadvertently worn to prune the rosebushes…

Remember:

Wear the right footwear for the job, and your feet and plants will thank you.

And if you are looking for more gardening gear, check out these reviews next:

Asimina triloba

Have you heard of the pawpaw, Asimina triloba? It’s the largest native North American fruit, and it has a tropical flavor and custardy texture.

If you’re confused, that’s because there are other tropical fruits called pawpaw, including the papaya, Carica papaya, and the graviola, or soursop, Annona muricata.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Unlike them, A. triloba grows in the temperate regions of USDA Hardiness Zones 5 to 9, and has three intriguing qualities:

1. It is a hardy deciduous perennial that grows as either a tree or shrub.
2. Fruit is optional because the plant does not self-pollinate.
3. With or without fruit, its drooping golden leaves in fall and musky, maroon flowers in spring make for a striking and structural focal point.

Read on to discover a temperate zone fruit once so popular it was celebrated with song, and learn how to grow it in your home landscape.

Here’s what’s in store:

Consume with Caution

Also known as “Indiana banana,” “Quaker delight,” “Appalachian banana,” and “poor man’s banana,” the pawpaw is a member of the Annonaceae, or custard apple family that includes cherimoya, Annona cherimola, and graviola, aka soursop, A. muricata (mentioned above).

And while the fruit has an appealing flavor, there are some people for whom consumption causes stomach upset. This is due to the chemical compound annonacin, which is also present in the bark and seeds.

The NC State Extension categorizes the level of toxicity from eating pawpaw as low, with the summary: “Fruit edible but some people suffer severe stomach and intestinal pain; skin irritation from handling fruit.”

In addition, the pulp and twigs contain acetogenins, metabolic compounds toxic to some cancer cells. However, Sloan Kettering advises its cancer patients: “There are no published clinical studies in humans to determine the safety of pawpaw for cancer treatment,” and goes on to warn patients who wish to consume the fruit that they may experience allergic reactions, neurotoxic effects, or vomiting if they do.

Pawpaw fruit perishes quickly after ripening, so it is not currently a commonplace grocery store commodity. Instead, it’s the domain of small-scale farmers and home growers who often supply it to farmers markets.

In addition to fresh fruit and frozen pulp, extracts are available in pill form for the purported purpose of boosting cell health.

Professor Bruce Bordelon, of the Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture at Purdue University, concurs with the warnings and says, “When it comes to pawpaw, perhaps it is best to enjoy the fruit in moderation.”

“Way Down Yonder”

At a length of up to six inches, the pawpaw is North America’s largest native fruit.

It’s an overlooked legacy from Mother Nature that harks back to gentler times, when bonneted girls and straw-hatted boys went fruit picking in bare feet on summer mornings.

Where, oh where is pretty little Susie?

Way down yonder in the pawpaw patch.

These old Appalachian lyrics have been sung around many a campfire, including the Girl Scout jamborees of my childhood. But although I was in prime pawpaw territory, I grew up with only the word, and not the sweet flavor, on my tongue.

So, what’s a pawpaw patch?

A. triloba is a plant that thrives in organically-rich areas along waterways, in woodlands, and on hillsides, where the ground is especially moist. It may have the habit of either a tree or a shrub.

As an understory plant, beneath the partial shade of deciduous trees, it is shrub-like. But in the full sunshine of open spaces, it’s a pyramid-shaped tree that may exceed 30 feet in height.

Both types generate suckers that grow into additional plants and eventually form a thicket of growth, or the proverbial patch.

Pawpaw Pioneers

My first physical encounter with this plant, no lie, was in my sister Susie’s backyard. Yes, after singing about them for years, she grew up and planted a patch of her own.

And in my area, the fruit is gaining popularity thanks to an organization called the Philadelphia Orchard Project that plants trees for public foraging and supplying local farmers markets.

This is no easy task, as fresh-picked fruit lasts only about two days.

Athens, Ohio grower Chris Chmiel runs Integration Acres, the “world’s largest pawpaw processing plant.”

I recently heard Chris speak as a guest on the Gastropod podcast, in an episode entitled “Pick a Pawpaw: America’s Forgotten Fruit.” Because the fruit is so perishable, his team picks, processes, and sells it frozen. Buyers include craft brewers.

Chris has revived interest in this under-cultivated fruit by founding the “largest pawpaw festival in the world” and sharing its folk culture.

It seems that the location of patches in the wild and the names of places in the “pawpaw belt” support the theory that Native Americans not only foraged for the fruit, but likely cultivated it as well.

From Early American days to the beginning of the twentieth century, folks scooped the sweet flesh from ripe skins to make jams and puddings, finding it plentiful in the wild. Herbal practitioners used the toxic seeds, bark, and leaves in a range of homeopathic remedies, from insecticides to emetics.

In 1916, The Journal of Heredity’s Contest for the Best Pawpaws invited participants to send their local varieties to the American Genetic Association. Prizes were awarded for the best, and they were studied for possible propagation.

Over the years, the early pioneers of propagation died, commercial viability did not come to fruition, and research waned. Sadly, at least 35 cultivars identified between the 1890s and 1960s are now extinct.

It wasn’t until the 1970s that serious interest resurfaced. When West Virginia University plant genetics student Neal Peterson tasted the fruit, he was inspired to pick up where early researchers had left off.

In 1999, he partnered with Kentucky State University to conduct the Regional Variety Trial, with the cooperation of numerous universities, to evaluate cultivars for possible commercial production.

Today, Peterson continues his work, cultivating, researching, and teaching in the Kentucky State University Pawpaw Program, and Peterson’s Pawpaws are widely available for the home gardener. Large-scale commercial production remains a goal of the future.

A Patch of Your Own

Are you ready to revive a once-celebrated native fruit in your outdoor landscape?

Here’s everything you need to know to ensure success.

Soil Requirements

For optimal results, you’ll need moist soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH that is organically rich and drains well.

Contact your local extension office to have your soil tested, and adjust pH and add amendments like compost and nutrient-rich fertilizer per the instructions in your test report.

Location Selection

To grow a tree, choose a location in full sun. It should be somewhat sheltered, either by a nearby building, fence, or shrubbery, because high wind is known to damage pawpaw, permanently twisting its branches.

Mature dimensions may reach 30 feet tall and 20 feet wide, with compact branches for a conical shape.

For cultivation as a shrub, select a partially shaded location beneath a canopy of tall deciduous trees, where looser, sprawling growth has room to roam.

Pollination and Fruit

Decide whether you are interested in fruit, because pawpaw pollination poses a challenge.

The best method to ensure a fruit crop is to plant at least two totally different cultivars on your property (and three is even better), as well as an array of nectar-rich plants that attract pollinators. The pros at Peterson Pawpaws recommend planting trees no more than 30 feet apart.

The horticulturists at the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center in Texas explain that pawpaw produces many flowers that seldom self-pollinate, and are in fact, “self-incompatible.” Flies and beetles are the major pollinators of A. triloba, and growers have been known to hang roadkill from branches to attract as many flies as possible.

Another method of pollinating is to use a paintbrush and manually pollinate pawpaw blossoms of one variety with those of another, a technique that’s beyond the scope of this article.

Rodale’s Ultimate Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening says there’s an old cultivar called ‘Sunflower’ that doesn’t require cross-pollination, if you can find one!

Quality Plants for Best Results

After your site is selected and the soil prepared, it might be tempting to find a wild pawpaw patch and dig up a seedling to take home. This is not a good idea, for two reasons:

First, the plant has a long taproot that may be damaged.

Second, plants dug in the wild seldom transplant well to the home garden.

Per Carla Emery, author of The Encyclopedia of Country Living, if you find some ripe fruit, simply put it in the ground whole and cover it with a thin layer of soil. If seeds sprout, thin them out later.

Like many seeds, those of A. triloba require a period of cold stratification to germinate. But unlike many seeds, they must be kept moist. So, planting whole fruits post-harvest in the fall addresses both issues.

However, even if they do grow, plants and fruit produced from wild seeds are likely to be inferior to today’s cultivars. These cultivated varieties are bred for desirable characteristics like disease resistance and exceptional fruit quality.

Also note that the seeds from modern varieties, particularly hybrids, produce uncertain results, and often bear no resemblance to a parent plant.

Another propagation method is to take a stem cutting (scion) from a tree or shrub, and graft it onto sturdy rootstock (clone).

Pests and Disease

Pawpaw is not prone to pests or disease, especially when you start with a plant that has been expertly bred.

Fungal or bacterial leafspot sometimes occurs on leaves that are too wet for too long, and may be treated with a copper-based fungicide. Be sure to choose one that is safe for use on edible fruit.

The pawpaw peduncle borer (Talponia plummeriana) is one of the few pests that specifically targets this species. The larvae consume portions of the flowers when the trees are blooming, which leads to a smaller crop.

Spider mites, hornworms, various caterpillars, and Japanese beetles can all attack the leaves.

Care and Maintenance

If you start from seed, it may take a couple of months before you see a sprout, because the long tap root grows first.

Water deeply once a week during the growing season, and more if rainfall is scant. You may apply a diluted all-purpose fertilizer to seedlings per package instructions.

The experts at University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Food, and Environment say that first-year seedlings are very sensitive to ultraviolet light and require shading from intense sun, as well as mulch and consistent watering during dry spells.

They also recommend that suckers, the new shoots beside the main trunk, be hand pulled, as opposed to being pruned or mowed, because the latter methods encourage more to grow. Of course, if you want a patch, leave them alone.

Similarly, fruit that falls and decays contains seeds that may sprout. Remove unwanted seedlings by hand pulling.

In spring, apply a layer of mulch to aid in keeping the soil moist. Pruning is not required, except to remove dead or damaged branches. However, as fruit sets on new growth, some people prune in an attempt to increase yields.

You may fertilize mature trees and shrubs each spring with an all-purpose, slow-release granular fertilizer. Sprinkle it in a circle a few inches out from the base of plants. As weeds begin to grow in summer, clear them away to inhibit pests and disease.

Be patient when expecting fruit. It may take up to eight years before it appears, although some of the newest cultivars fruit much sooner. Take care to maintain even moisture while fruit sets, as a drought may cause it to suddenly drop off.

Where to Buy

You can find pawpaw plants available in garden centers and online.

American Pawpaw

Fast Growing Trees carries one- to two- and three- to four-feet American pawpaw trees.

Remember that you will need two different varieties to produce a fruit harvest.

Harvesting

Fall is harvest time in the pawpaw patch. There is variation among the different cultivars, but September is generally peak pickin’ time.

This is when green fruits begin to soften, generally turning yellow and then brown.

It’s hard to know when to pick, and many folks use the time-honored technique of shaking the tree or shrub and taking home whatever falls off. Don’t pick too soon, because a pawpaw ripens best on the tree, and may not ripen further after harvesting.

You have about two days to consume your crop before it starts to rot, so don’t waste any time! Simply slice the fruit lengthwise, remove the seeds, and spoon up the sweet, creamy, yellow pulp for a truly tropical sensation.

Freeze any pulp you can’t consume fast enough. You can use it in everything from breads and cakes to mixed drinks, ice cream, and smoothies. I don’t recommend refrigeration because fruits picked ripe are on the verge of rotting, and emit a strong, albeit fragrant odor.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Lilium spp.

Adored by florists and gardeners everywhere, lilies are delightfully flamboyant with gorgeous flowers and heady perfume.

Renowned for their big, bold blooms in scrumptious colors, these hardy bulbs are dependable, low maintenance, and multiply easily. And many have an unforgettable and intensely sweet fragrance.

With such a splendid display, you might think these exotic bulbs are difficult or fussy to grow.

But that’s not the case – popular hybrids are easy to cultivate and adapt to most conditions.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Their showy blooms highlight beds, borders, and large containers. They’re a must-have for the cutting garden, and they make a spectacular addition to meadows, woodland fringes, or any natural setting.

And with several varieties to choose from, you can enjoy their dramatic blooms from late spring through summer.

Join us now for a look at how to plant and grow true lilies – you’ll soon see why your garden should have some!

What Are True Lilies?

The term “true lilies” refers to members of the Lilium genus in the Liliaceae family – plants with large, showy flowers that are grown from scaly bulbs.

The term is used to distinguish them from the many other plants that have lily in their name but aren’t family members. Like daylilies, which are from the Hemerocallis genus in the Asparagales family.

And only true varieties make it onto the esteemed Lily Register!

The Lily Register

In the mid 1960s, the Royal Horticultural Society developed a system for classifying true lilies.

With around 100 botanical species and hundreds of hybrids, plants are sorted into nine divisions according to similarities in bloom times, flower aspect and form, growth habits, hardiness, and parentage.

Divisions are noted by the Roman numerals I to IX, and most contain several species, subspecies, and their hybrid cultivars.

And because breeders are developing new hybrids every year, the rich selection of beautiful bulbs continues to grow.

But don’t worry, there’s no need to memorize all nine divisions!

For the home gardener, Divisions I and VII are the most popular. These are the classic Asiatic and Oriental hybrids.

Cultivation and History

Lilies are upright perennials that range in height from 2 to 8 feet tall. Lance-shaped leaves adorn the stems, and flower shapes can be flat, bell, bowl, or trumpet-like.

Native to temperate regions of Asia, Europe, and North America, plants grow from scaly bulbs.

Flowers are borne singly or in groups and can face down, out, or upward.

They’re often highly fragrant and come in shades of orange, pink, purple, red, white, and yellow – every color except blue, and some hybrids produce petals that are almost black.

Petal markings include brush strokes, color bars, contrasting tips and throats, and freckles.

The bulbs are imbricate – which means they lack the moisture-retentive, papery tunic that other bulbs have. As such, they need to be kept in a lightly moist environment until planting, usually in damp peat moss or sand.

Bloom times vary for each division. Some begin to flower in late spring, while others bloom in early, mid-, or late summer.

Most varieties are hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8, but many are hardy in Zones 3-9 as well.

Bulbs are left in the garden during winter dormancy and will multiply readily.

When left undisturbed, many species and cultivars will form large stands with multiple flower stems.

Lilies have been cultivated by many cultures for millennia and were often bestowed with magical properties – although they have no real medicinal value.

They’re mentioned in both the Old and New Testaments of the Bible and were considered sacred by the ancient Minoans.

During the Victorian era, botanists and explorers “discovered” many new species of lilies. But bulbs remained rare and often proved difficult to grow outside their native habitats.

Propagation

Lilies like to procreate and provide several ways to perpetuate the species!

You can scale bulbs to create new plants. Bulbs also create baby bulbs, known as offsets or bulblets.

Stems may also produce bulblets just below the soil surface.

Some species also produce stem bulbils that look like large seeds in the leaf axis.

And of course, the flowers produce seed as well.

However, with hybrids, reproduction from seed does not guarantee that seedlings will be true to the parent – and seeds are often sterile. Seed propagation is only successful with species plants.

From Seed

Starting new plants from seed is slow – expect to wait 3 or 4 years before blooms appear.

Seeds ripen in late summer and can be collected on a dry day, about 8 weeks after the last blooms.

As the pods age, they swell noticeably and then change from green to brown and split open, revealing mature seeds that are dark, dry, and firm.

Seeds require hypogeal germination – three months of moist, warm temperatures followed by three months of cold temperatures.

To do this, mix seeds with about 2 cups of moist peat moss and place in a plastic bag or container. Cover loosely.

Store the peat and seed mix in a warm, dark spot. Check biweekly to ensure that the peat doesn’t dry out, and add water as needed to keep it moist.

When the seeds have swollen and formed tiny bulbs, place them in the refrigerator for another three months.

Keep the peat moist and temperatures between 45 and 55°F for the duration of their cold spell.

After three months, remove the immature bulbs from the cold and plant 1/2 inch deep in organically rich, well-draining soil in 4- to 6-inch pots.

Place pots in a sheltered spot in the garden that receives bright, indirect light, keeping the soil moist but not wet.

After 18 to 24 months, gently remove and separate bulbs, then plant into the garden or large containers.

Young bulbs can be planted out when they’re over 1 inch in diameter, although they may need to mature for another year or two before blooming.

From Stem Bulbils

Plants started from stem bulbils can begin to produce flowers in two years.

In late summer, carefully pluck the bulbils from the leaf axils – where leaves join the stem.

Add drainage material such as coconut coir, broken pottery, pebbles, or gravel to several small, 4- to 6-inch pots and fill with a moist, sterile potting mix.

In each pot, plant 4 to 6 bulbils 1/2 inch deep and an inch apart, and cover with soil.

Place pots outdoors in a sheltered spot that receives ample moisture and indirect light. Allow the pots to remain in place for 18 to 24 months. The soil must be well-draining and kept moist, but not wet or waterlogged.

When shoots emerge, feed with a granular, low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer.

Jobe’s Organic Bulb Food via Home Depot

Jobe’s organic bulb food has a 3-5-4 NPK ratio and is available at Home Depot.

Early in their second spring, lift the bulbs from their containers and separate gently. Plant out bulbs that are 1 inch or larger in the garden, and replant smaller ones in the same pot for another 6 to 12 months of growth.

From Offset Bulblets

Bulblets are the easiest to propagate, and the method is the same for both bulb and stem offsets.

Offsets can vary in size from that of a pea to a golf ball. Small offsets can take 2 to 4 years to flower, but larger ones can bloom in 1 to 2 years.

Bulblets will be identical in type to the parent plant, making this a viable method for both hybrid cultivars and species plants.

Lift mature bulbs from the ground and detach offsets from the bulb or stem. Pot up smaller offsets in 4- or 6-inch pots, using a sterile potting mix and ensuring the soil is well draining.

Larger ones can be replanted directly in the ground.

Provide the pots with similar conditions as for bulbils, place in a sheltered spot with indirect light, and keep them moist but not waterlogged.

Depending on the size of the bulblets, allow them to grow for a year or two before planting out into rich, well-draining soil. Plant out when bulbs are over 1 inch in diameter.

From Scales

Scales are taken from a parent bulb before planting. Or, lift mature bulbs in fall for scaling.

From a mature, plump bulb, snap off 4-8 scales close to the base. Dust the parent and scales with a fungicide powder such as garden sulfur.

Press the broken base end of each scale firmly into a seed tray of moist sand so that each one is standing upright. Cover with a plastic bag and seal lightly. Store in a warm, dark location (around 65-70°F) for six weeks.

Check the moisture every 7 to 14 days. Add water if needed to keep the sand damp, but not waterlogged.

When bulblets have formed, discard any remaining scales that have gone soft.

Plant the bulblets in 4- to 6-inch pots of sterile potting mix, ensuring that the soil is well-draining. Place in a cold frame or a sheltered, frost-free spot in the garden to overwinter, keeping the soil moist but not wet.

For those in regions with mild winters where temperatures stay above 40°F, refrigerate the potted bulblets for 6 to 12 weeks at temperatures of 45-55°F.

How to Grow

Although there are nine different divisions, the care and cultivation of all varieties are similar.

Bulbs can be sown in fall or spring and should be planted promptly after purchasing. Remember, these imbricate bulbs lack a moisture-retentive tunic and can dry out quickly.

They prefer organically-rich soil with a neutral to slightly acidic pH of 6.0 to 6.5, and prefer conditions similar to clematis – with cool, moist roots and heads in the sun.

Most grow best in full to partial sun, but some prefer light shade – like the Martagon hybrids and some North American species.

Bulbs are typically planted 4 to 6 inches deep. But these smart plants have contractile roots that pull bulbs down to their proper depth. So it’s better to err on the side of planting too shallow rather than too deep.

To grow successfully, they must have well-draining soil. Any bulbs allowed to stand in water will rot.

Enrich the soil with 1/3 organic matter such as compost or aged manure.

Add 1/3 shredded coconut coir, peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite to help retain moisture. Mix in some coarse sand to improve drainage if needed.

Mix a sprinkle of bone meal into the planting holes and plant bulbs with the flat (root) end down. You want the bulb tips to be approximately 3 inches below the soil surface. Plant bulbs 10 inches apart to ensure proper air circulation and prevent fungal disease.

Water to settle the bulbs and add a 1-inch layer of leaf mulch or compost to help retain moisture.

After stems emerge from the soil, work in a complete granular fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 (NPK). Add a second, supplemental feeding when buds begin to form, and water in thoroughly.

Generally, Asiatics are the earliest to bloom, with flowers appearing in late spring. Oriental and Trumpets flower in midsummer, with the Martagon hybrids following in mid- to late summer.

After flowering, remove spent blooms, but leave about 2/3 of the stem and leaves in place for photosynthesis.

Allow stems to wither and die back on their own, then cut back to the ground and clean around the plants for winter.

Lilies require a period of cold winter dormancy and do not grow well in areas with warm winters.

Container care is simple. Use the same rich, well-draining soil and ensure the container is big enough to hold mature, flowering plants – they can get top heavy.

Pots with a minimum diameter and depth of 20 inches will hold 3 bulbs, although flowers will be smaller.

Growing Tips

Keep the following tips in mind to enjoy a bountiful lily display:

• Bulbs can be planted in fall or spring. However, fall-planted ones perform better because their roots have time to become established before the growing season begins.
• Plant bulbs to a depth of about 3 times their diameter – typically, 4 to 6 inches deep.
• Container grown bulbs can be planted an inch or two shallower.
• Keep the soil moist but not wet. Moisture retentive material added to the soil, such as peat or vermiculite, helps bulbs to stay cool and hydrated.
• Space bulbs 10 inches apart to ensure proper air circulation and avoid fungal diseases.
• An organic mulch is recommended to keep roots cool in summer, and protect from freeze and thaw cycles in winter.
• Staking may be required for plants with huge heads of blooms.

• For long-lasting bouquets, cut stems when the buds are just beginning to open and starting to show their colors.
• For cut flowers, remove anthers with a tissue to prevent pollen stains.

Pruning and Maintenance

Break or cut off spent flowers after petals wither and fall off, leaving 2/3 of the stem intact. To direct energy to the bulb, be sure to remove the entire flower head, including the swollen seed pods at the flower base.

Remove any dead or damaged leaves during the growing season and allow stems to wilt and wither on their own.

Once foliage has died, cut back to ground level – to prevent dislodging the bulbs, don’t pull the stems.

Lift mature bulbs every 3 or 4 years to collect offsets for propagation.

Cultivars to Select

To enjoy a long bloom season, choosing cultivars from Divisions I, VI, VII, VIII, and IX can create waves of flowers from late spring all the way to autumn.

Here are a few suggestions to get you started:

Asiatics

Look to the Asiatic hybrids in Division I for early blooms, easy growth, and fantastic pastel or tropical colors.

‘Landini’

The striking ‘Landini’ has the deepest purple petals – so deep, they appear black!

Bulbs in bags of 5, 10, or 25 are available at Eden Brothers.

Or maybe you prefer bright colors, like those of the cheerful ‘Lollipop’ with its whimsical, pink-tipped flowers.

‘Lollipop’

Bulbs in 7-packs are available at Home Depot.

Trumpets

The highly fragrant Trumpet hybrids in Division IV feature up to 25 blooms per stem from mature bulbs. Blooming in midsummer, they’re ideal for large plantings or the cutting garden.

‘African Queen’ is renowned for her masses of transcendent, creamsicle-orange flowers and heavenly fragrance.

‘African Queen’

Bags of 3 bulbs are available at Burpee.

And the sublime ‘White Planet’ has huge white trumpets with bright yellow throats.

‘White Planet’

Bags of 5, 10, or 25 bulbs are available at Eden Brothers.

Orientals

In Division VII, the enchanted Oriental hybrids present highly showy flowers with striking colors and exotic perfume. They bloom from mid- to late summer.

‘Star Gazer’

With bold, upward-facing flowers in deep, cerise pink, ‘Star Gazer’ has long been a stunning standout.

Bags of 3 bulbs are available at Burpee.

You won’t want to miss out on ‘My Wedding’ for the cutting garden.

‘My Wedding’

Crisp white, double petals produce gorgeous, full blooms – and with no stamen, there’s no pollen to mar their purity.

Packages of 5 bulbs are available at Home Depot.

Interdivisional Hybrids

Division VIII contains interdivisional hybrids that deliver outstanding plants featuring the best qualities of their parents.

Blooming in early to midsummer, these exciting hybrids include Asiapets (Asiatic x Oriental), Orienpets (Oriental x Trumpets), AOAs (Asiatic x Oriental x Asiatic), LAs (Longiflorum x Asiatic), and LOs (Longiflorum x Oriental).

‘Purple Lady’ is a fragrant Orienpet.

‘Purple Lady’

She has sturdy, tall stems and huge, rose-colored flowers with a yellow throat.

Packages of 7 bulbs are available through Home Depot.

For the best characteristics of Asiatic and Oriental lilies, this AOA hybrid mix features large, fragrant flowers in mauve, orange, pink, and yellow.

AOA Hybrid Mix

Pick up packets of 5, 10, or 25 bulbs from Eden Brothers.

True Species

The true species and their hybrids in Division IX provide graceful, clump-forming plants, many of them unscented.

‘Splendens’ is a hybrid L. tigrinum, with up to 25 blooms per stem.

‘Splendens’

Bags of 5, 10, and 25 bulbs are available at Eden Brothers.

Managing Pests and Disease

Easy to cultivate, lilies have few troubles from pests or disease – and good planting practices will prevent most problems.

Soil with excellent drainage prevents the root and bulb rot caused by excessively wet conditions.

Proper spacing provides adequate air circulation, which helps to minimize fungal disease and the spread of pests like aphids.

Pests

Here are some of the common pests that can plague your lilies:

Aphids

Aphids cause damage by sucking sap and spreading viruses. They can be removed easily with a strong blast of water from the garden hose.

Hold the plant stems firmly to prevent water damage.

See our guide to learn more about how to control aphids in the garden.

Lily Leaf Beetle

Larvae of the lily leaf beetle cause damage by eating the leaves.

An application of neem oil during the growing season will take care of these pests.

Deer

Deer sometimes have a fondness for the flower buds.

Use a light citrus spray on the flower buds to keep deer at bay. To do this, mix 1 part d-limonene orange oil concentrate with 15 parts water. Apply a light mist to the leaves and buds 1 to 2 times per week in the late afternoon.

Learn more from our guide to protecting your garden from deer damage.

Rodents

Mice and squirrels can sometimes nibble on the bulbs. Ensure bulbs are planted at their proper depth and apply a thick layer of mulch in late summer to protect against rodents.

Disease

Largely disease-free, there are a couple to watch out for.

Botrytis

In cool, damp conditions, lilies are prone to botrytis, a common fungal disease that damages parts above ground, like leaves, stems, and sometimes flowers.

Spores are spread by water splashing onto the plant via rain or watering, and the disease presents as small tan or reddish ovals on the leaves and stems, spreading from the ground up.

Remove and dispose of damaged stems and leaves to prevent further spread. Treat with a fungicide.

Lily Mosaic Virus

This virus can infect tiger lilies, L. tigrinum, although it doesn’t harm them. But insects can carry it to other, more susceptible varieties, where it can cause distorted or mottled foliage.

All of the infected plant material, including bulbs, needs to be removed and destroyed.

Avoid planting tigers near other lilies to protect them from mosaic virus.

Best Uses

Lilies are truly spectacular when planted in large groups as specimens.

But they also mix well in beds or cottage gardens, and suit underplantings of colorful annuals or perennials like asters, bee balm, and black-eyed Susans.

They are wonderful as a cut flower, so be sure to plant plenty for the cutting garden – you can never have too many!

They also grow well in large containers, although flowers tend to be a bit smaller than those grown in the ground.

And many make a striking addition to naturalized areas, forming large clumps with numerous flowering stems when left undisturbed.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

A Flower Like No Other

As you can see, lilies aren’t shy background players.

These bright beauties are a flower like no other – drama queens that demand a stage to capture the senses! Thankfully, their cultivation and care belong to the non-diva.

Choose selections from the different divisions for an extended bloom season, and give them rich, well-draining soil. Then sit back and enjoy the performance!

Do you folks have any favorite lilies? Tell us which ones brighten your garden in the comments below.

And if you like easy, colorful flowers in your garden, check out some of our other guides next:

Ah, the pungent smell of marigolds – their distinctive fragrance tells me that summer has most definitely arrived.

And once summer is at full tilt, I love seeing their happy yellow, orange, and red flowers brightening up my garden.

If you’re a fan of marigolds too, you probably purchase a flat or two every year to add to your own vegetable garden, or arrange in your flower beds or planters.

But once you cross the line from fan to fanatic like I have, you may want to start growing these annuals from seed.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

This opens up your options to enjoy exciting new cultivars, and saves quite a bit of money in your gardening budget, to boot.

Deciding whether to sow your marigolds directly in the garden or start them indoors will require you to take a few factors into consideration: the length of your growing season, the type of cultivar you’re planting, and how impatient you are for these annuals to fill your garden with flowers.

I’ll go over each of these different factors, so you can decide which method will work best for you.

The three main species of marigolds found in US gardens are the Mexican (sometimes called African) marigold, Tagetes erecta, the French T. patula, and the signet marigold, T. tenuifolia.

Another member of the Asteraceae family, Calendula officinalis is known as the pot or English marigold.

In this guide, I’ll go over how to start the three Tagetes species from seed.

Here’s what I’ll cover:

Why Sow Outdoors

Sowing seeds outdoors is more straightforward than starting them indoors. There are fewer steps involved, fewer materials required, and you avoid the risk of transplant shock.

If you’d rather forego an indoor seed starting project, there are some cases where you can get away with sowing marigolds directly into your garden:

• If you are growing a faster maturing variety, such as most French (T. patula) and signet marigold (T. tenuifolia) cultivars.
• If you are willing to be patient for flowers to appear.
• If you have a long growing season.

Let’s talk more about that last point. How do you know if you have a long growing season?

If you are able to successfully grow warm-season crops like tomatoes, squash, eggplant, and peppers  without concerns about them being killed by early frosts, you probably have a long growing season in your area.

On the other hand, if you have had issues with these crops getting hit with early frosts in the past, you are probably like me and many other northern and high elevation gardeners who must deal with the challenges of a short growing season.

Here’s a more precise way to find out if you have time to sow these annuals outdoors:

Compare the number of frost-free days in your area with the number of days the plant needs to reach maturity.

If you don’t know how many frost-free days you have, you can quickly calculate them with this tool from the National Gardening Association.

Just enter your zip code, and it will tell you the average number for your area.

Now find the days to maturity for your selected variety or cultivar. This information is usually located on the seed packet.

If you can’t find this information on your seed packet, French marigolds (Tagetes patula) will generally bloom in 50-60 days, while Mexican marigolds (T. erecta) need 70-100 days.

Signet marigolds (T. tenuifolia) often flower in just 60 days, depending on the variety.

Compare your number of frost-free days with the number of days the plant needs to reach maturity.

If your marigold takes 100 days or more to bloom, and your growing season has 190 days total, that means you’ll potentially get to enjoy the flowers for about three months. Seems like a good deal to me!

However, if your growing season only has an average of 104 days (my growing season is closer to this number), you might not get to enjoy the blooms at all if you sow seeds outdoors.

The most you may get are some buds.

So if you have a short growing season, start the slower maturing varieties indoors, and for direct sowing, consider a faster maturing variety.

Learn more about when to sow seeds indoors versus outdoors in this guide.

When to Sow Outdoors

Marigolds are tender annuals, which means they are not at all cold hardy and will be damaged or killed by frost.

That’s why these plants smell like summer – and not spring.

While mature marigolds may be able to tolerate just a tiny amount of frost, young seedlings are generally more sensitive and it’s better not to risk exposure to the cold.

If you decide to sow directly into your garden soil, plan on doing this about a week or two after your last average frost date.

That way, once your marigolds germinate, the risk of late frosts will likely already have passed.

How to Sow Outdoors

When you’re ready to sow, first choose a full sun location in your garden.

These annual flowers can tolerate some shade, particularly if your summers are really hot. However, flowers will develop more striking colors if they are planted in full sun.

When considering where to plant your marigolds, be aware that these plants need to grow in soil that drains well.

If you’re dealing with heavy clay, mix in some compost to help with drainage. Alternatively, sow your seeds in raised beds.

Before sowing, wet the soil lightly with a gentle spray from the hose. I like to do this several hours before I sow my seeds, so the soil is moist but not soggy at planting time.

Scrape back a little bit of soil to use for covering the seeds. Level out the soil and pat it gently to firm it up.

Pour some seeds into the palm of your dry hand so that you don’t accidentally end up dumping the entire contents of your packet onto the soil all in one spot. These seeds are light and airy, and that can be easy to do!

Place groups of 3 or 4 seeds on the prepared soil, spaced 6-12 inches apart, depending on the mature spread of your chosen variety.

You’ll need to leave more room between each plant if you are growing larger varieties. In general, you can plant smaller cultivars 6-8 inches apart, and larger ones 10-12 inches apart.

Press seeds lightly into the soil, then cover lightly with the soil you pushed to the side, so that they are buried 1/2 inch deep.

Pat and smooth the soil gently, and water lightly with a watering can, or using the gentle shower setting on your watering wand.

Make sure to water every day until seedlings emerge. Gradually taper off watering so that established plants receive about 1 inch a week.

When to Start Indoors

If you decide to start your seeds indoors, plan to sow them 6-8 weeks before your average last frost date.

Allowing your marigolds 6-8 weeks of growth before setting them out will give them a jump start, and you’ll enjoy the blooms earlier than if you were to sow them directly in the garden.

They will be ready to transplant into your garden at the beginning of your local warm season, and the earlier maturing varieties will bloom soon after transplanting them.

How to Start Indoors

Starting marigold seeds indoors is pretty easy, but it does require a few materials and supplies.

If you’ve never started your own annuals from seed, you might want to review our complete guide to starting annuals from seed indoors.

Here are a few tips for you to get started:

• Use sterilized potting soil or soilless starting mix.
• Plant 2-3 seeds per starter tray cell.
• When seedlings are about 2 inches tall, thin out all but the strongest plant from each cell.
• Water daily with a spray bottle to prevent water logging and alleviate the risk of damping off.
• If using the light from a south-facing window instead of grow lights, turn your trays daily to help straighten out seedlings, which will tend to lean toward the light.

About a week before you wish to transplant your seedlings, start hardening them off outdoors to acclimate them to their new growing conditions.

First, place them outside in a shaded location where they are protected from wind.

Over the course of a week, gradually increase their exposure to direct sun and wind by about an hour a day, until they outdoors for the entire day, placed in the location where you intend to plant.

Plant your transplants in a full sun location with well-draining soil, and water them in.

I like to do my transplanting on a cloudy day or in the evening, so the transplants don’t have so much heat stress to deal with while they acclimate themselves. This also helps to protect me from the sun too!

Water daily for the first week. Once plants are established, give them a good soak about once a week. Water only at the ground level, and avoid spraying the flowers directly with water to keep your blooms looking fresh instead of soggy and wilted.

Need a little more guidance on how to care for these annuals? Make sure you check out our complete guide to growing marigolds.

Recommended Cultivars

I honestly haven’t met a marigold I didn’t like, but there are some cultivars I’m particularly excited about, and I’d like to share these with you.

All of these recommendations are the faster-maturing French type marigolds, T. patula.

You’ll enjoy gorgeous blooms early in the season, whether you sow indoors in flats or outdoors in the garden.

Queen Sophia

‘Queen Sophia’ is an All-America Selections Winner whose fiery petals are warm and entrancing.

The petals of this French type are dark orange with yellow edges, and its double blooms measure 2 to 3 inches across.

‘Queen Sophia’

Plants grow 10-12 inches tall with a spread of about 8 inches.

‘Queen Sophia’ will reach maturity in 60 days.

You’ll find ‘Queen Sophia’ seeds in a selection of package sizes at Eden Brothers.

Strawberry Blonde

Marigolds are typically limited to shades of yellow, red, and orange – so spotting a unique, pink-colored cultivar such as ‘Strawberry Blonde’ is quite a thrill.

The flowers of this variety start out red, and then transform into a lovely pinkish-yellow hue.

‘Strawberry Blonde’

Plants reach 8-10 inches tall and have a 6 to 8-inch spread at maturity.

‘Strawberry Blonde’ will reach maturity in 55-70 days.

You’ll find ‘Strawberry Blonde’ in packs of 50 seeds for purchase exclusively at Burpee.

Durango

When you just can’t decide which type of marigold to grow, why not go for a mix?

The ‘Durango’ mix comes in a beautiful mélange of solid yellow, orange, and burgundy hues as well as some enticing bicolor patterns, with double blooms reaching 2 to 2 1/2 inches across.

‘Durango’ Mix

Plants reach 10-12 inches in height and have a 9-inch spread.

Flowers in the ‘Durango’ mix come to maturity in 50-60 days.

You’ll find the ‘Durango’ mix, and an assortment of other ‘Durango’ colors, in packs of 1000 seeds at True Leaf Market.

Want More Choices?

These lovely flowers come in a huge range of red, yellow, and orange color pallets, shapes, and heights. Find the perfect variety for your home and garden with our guide, “31 of the Best Types of Marigolds.”

If you want to harvest and save your own seeds for use the following year, you’ll want to choose old-fashioned heirloom cultivars rather than newer hybrid types.

Turn Seed into ‘Golds

Considering all the factors – the length of your growing season, your chosen varieties, and how quickly you want to enjoy the blooms – you should have a pretty good idea by now of the best way to turn seed into ‘golds.

So, what have you decided, gardener? Will you be sowing outdoors or starting indoors? Or perhaps both? And which wonderful varieties are you growing? Let us know in the comments below.

And to learn more about growing marigolds in your garden, why not check out the following guides next:

Are you a celery fan? Done right, it’s satisfyingly flavorful with a pleasing texture that leaves you wanting more.

But it can be difficult for the home gardener to achieve this without applying a little extra attentive care.

Done wrong, celery’s either too watery and stringy to enjoy, or so bitter you’re tempted to spit it into a napkin.

Cooking might reduce its bitterness, but that’s not the type of blanching we’re talking about here.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Rather than heat-treating and robbing the stalks of their crunch after harvest, this article will teach you how to apply a gardening technique to your crops that will improve texture and flavor.

You don’t want to miss this step!

So, now that you’ve got your celery started in your garden, it’s time to figure out how to blanch it so you can enjoy perfectly crisp, flavorful stalks come harvest time.

I know I can’t be the only one who hates cooking the life out of fresh veggies.

After blanching, your homegrown celery will maintain its texture and flavor, even when it’s been cooked down a bit in a soup or stew.

What Is Blanching?

The word “blanch” first appeared in common use in England in the 1400s. Derived from the French words blanc and blanchir, it means “to whiten.”

In many types of plants, such as cabbage, blanching happens naturally. Have you ever noticed that outer cabbage leaves are much greener than the innermost folds of the plant?

This is because the sun doesn’t reach those inner layers. The outer leaves act as a barrier, preventing photosynthesis and the production of chlorophyll.

Blanching is the practice of covering the stems of your plant for two to three weeks prior to harvest, to limit exposure to the sun.

The blanched portions of any plant are pale and lack the vibrant green color of unblanched plants, and there are differences in flavor as well.

You really notice this in savory, bitter plants like celery. Blanching reduces bitterness, allowing the plant’s natural sweetness to shine.

Celery is one of many plants that benefit from blanching in the garden. This technique is also used to improve the flavor of Belgian endive, asparagus, leeks, cauliflower, and rhubarb.

So if you struggle with the bitterness of your homegrown celery, it’s time to give it a try.

The First Rule of Blanching Celery: Wait

You might be eager to blanch your crops the moment little stalks start shooting out of the earth.

But the first thing you need to do is thin your plants so there is no more than one plant spaced every six inches, giving the roots plenty of room to grow and thrive.

Then, you need to wait.

And wait, and wait, until your stalks are two or three weeks away from being ready to harvest.

Since celery has an approximate time to maturity of 130-140 days, you’ll want to make a note in your phone or garden planning notebook so you don’t miss the opportunity to blanch your crop.

Once your celery is about three weeks away from harvest, you can blanch it.

Start blanching three weeks out for lighter, sweeter celery, or two weeks from harvest to maintain a slightly stronger flavor and more robust stalks. Keep in mind that the greener the stalk, the more nutrient-dense it is.

So yes, if you blanch the stalks, they will have a lower concentration of nutrients as a result. But it’s still rich in fiber, vitamins K1 (the plant-based form of vitamin K, also known as phylloquinone), C, and A, magnesium, folate, phosphorus, potassium, and calcium.

And it’s much more palatable than bitter, unblanched celery!

Clean Up Your Celery Patch

Take out a pair of garden scissors or pruning shears and cut away any yellowed or broken stalks. Keep these to add to your compost pile.

This little bit of cleanup will make it easier to wrap your chosen blanching materials around your celery plants.

The plants that remain in the ground should be sleek and green, and spaced at least four to six inches apart. Now it’s time for the next step: blanching!

Choose Your Blanching Method

There are three basic ways to blanch your celery. We’ll cover each of these here, and you can choose which is best for you.

Newspaper

For this method, you will need a stack of newspaper and some twine or gardening tape.

This method is ideal if you’ve got a small urban garden or if you don’t have tons of extra space for something like mounding, which we’ll look at next.

To blanch your celery stalks with newspaper, first loosely tie the stalks together just under the leaves. Using a bow knot will make it easy to remove, plus you can reuse the string!

Wrap a page or two of newspaper around the stalks. The top of the newspaper should end just below the leaves – you still want the leaves to see the sun so the plant can keep growing.

You may have to cut the paper or fold it to make sure it fits the stalks.

Tie more twine or gardening tape firmly around the newspaper to hold it in place, and voila! You’re done. The newspaper will block sunlight from reaching the stalks and they’ll turn a paler green color.

Water your plant as you normally would, but try to avoid saturating the newspaper.

The newspaper might get a bit soggy, but it’s only going to be there for three weeks, so you shouldn’t need to worry about it too much.

If you live in an area with heavy rainfall, you may want to change out the newspaper after each day of rain or use a different method.

You can also try using pieces of cardboard or aluminum foil instead of newspaper, taking care not to rip it when you secure it in place.

The last thing you need to do? Remember to harvest your celery!

When about three weeks have passed and your stalks are at least six inches long, undo the bows, set aside the newspapers to reuse them if they’re still in good shape, and enjoy a homegrown garden-blanched celery stalk dipped in hummus.

You can find my favorite hummus recipe on our sister site, Foodal.

If you planted all the seeds at once, they’ll probably all be ready at the same time or within a few days of each other.

Quickly measuring each plant’s stalk length by placing a ruler on the outside of the newspaper and measuring from the base of the plant to where the leaves begin will tell you when the stalks are ready to pick.

Mounding

This method requires a hand cultivator and a trowel (or a shovel and rake, depending on the size of your garden) and some extra topsoil.

You can also use mulching materials such as wood chips, bark, straw, or even dried autumn leaves that you’ve saved.

Do you have a lot of celery growing and a big garden to support it all? The mounding method of blanching might suit you perfectly.

All you need to do for this method is rake the soil or mulch up around the stalks all the way to where the leaves begin.

You’ll end up with rows of buried stalks with just the leaves poking out. There shouldn’t be an increase in pests or disease to keep an eye out for, as long as you water the stalks at the base of each plant and keep the mounds relatively dry.

You may need to check the mounds every couple of days and build them up again as needed to keep up with plant growth.

You can probably tell that if you’re growing a large number of plants, this labor-intensive method can get tiring. But just think of those crisp, juicy stalks you’ll be able to enjoy at harvest time!

Waxed Milk Cartons

With a stash of waxed half-gallon milk cartons and a pair of sharp scissors at the ready, this method is perfect for the recycling-minded among us.

The first thing you’ll need to do is thoroughly wash the insides of the cartons.

This technique might be my favorite, and it’s the one I use in my garden. I usually start saving milk cartons during the winter months so I have a nice little stash ready to go once the gardening season begins here in Alaska.

To blanch your stalks with a milk carton, you’ll first need to cut the top of the carton off and slice the square bottom out to remove it. To measure the height, set the carton up against your stalks and mark the spot on the carton where the stalks end. Cut this, too.

Slide the carton carefully over your celery leaves and stalks, using one carton for each plant. Make sure the top of the carton is positioned below the leaves, as you don’t want to cover these.

Boom! You’re done.

This is the easiest method by far, but you’ll have to save up your milk cartons in advance. As always, remember to make a note of when they’ll be ready to harvest, and get ready to enjoy your fresh, crisp celery.

Enjoy Your Tasty, Tender Blanched Stalks

Blanching celery takes a little bit of elbow grease, but once you do the necessary work, you can sit back and watch your celery fade (if you peek).

Before you know it, it will be time to enjoy some tender, tasty stalks spread with hummus or peanut butter!

It may take a bit of trial and error before you find the length of blanching time that best suits your taste buds.

If your crop lacks flavor, you may want to try blanching again next year beginning 10 days before harvest next time, instead of three weeks in advance.

On the other hand, for celery that’s still too strong, next year you should plan to blanch closer to four weeks in advance of the anticipated harvest date.

Have you ever blanched celery in your garden before? What’s your favorite method? Do you have any tips to share? Let us know in the comments below!

And for more celery growing tips, we invite you to read the following informative guides next:

Zucchini are nothing if not prolific, and while you’re more likely to see a vine take over half your garden than you are to see one struggle and die, they still have their share of potential problems.

There are several pests and diseases that are particularly common in zucchini crops. They can cause problems ranging from a little leaf discoloration to a completely dead plant.

Then there are issues resulting from too little water, or a lack of bumblebees in your garden.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Regardless of what’s plaguing your plant, the first step is being able to notice early on that something is wrong. That’s why you should head out to your garden regularly and look over your plants.

Then, if you notice something unusual, this guide will help you to identify the problem and figure out what to do about it.

Ready to play plant detective?

Troubleshooting 11 Potential Zucchini Problems

The most common signs that things have gone awry with your crop that you’ll see involve problems with the leaves and blossoms.

Occasionally, you might see evidence that all is not well impacting the fruits, too.

Here are some things to watch for, including potential causes and workable solutions.

1. Seedlings Fail to Sprout

It has been over two weeks since you planted your seeds, and you still don’t see any sign of seedlings.

We’ve all been there. So what causes seeds to fail to germinate?

Causes

There are many things that can cause seeds to fail.

• Seeds planted too deep
• Poor soil
• It’s too cold
• Too much or too little water
• Damping off

Solutions

The solution, of course, depends on the problem.

First, take care when planting, and make sure your seeds are planted no more than an inch deep.

At planting time, make sure to work plenty of organic matter into the soil.

Also, be sure you’re sowing seeds at the right time. Zucchini seeds won’t germinate if it’s too cold.

The soil needs to be above 60°F for seeds to sprout. Starting seeds indoors and using a heat mat can give them a healthy start, with conditions just right for germination.

Watch your water. You want the soil to be consistently moist, but not soggy. It should never be allowed to dry out completely.

If you’ve covered all these bases and you’re still not seeing seedlings, it could be damping off.

Damping off is caused by a variety of types of fungi – most commonly Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium species.

Make sure you’re buying fresh seeds from a reputable seller. Once you’ve purchased your seeds, store them in a cool, dark place.

Both heat and light can reduce germination rates or even sterilize seeds. Then, be sure to start with fresh, sterilized seed starting soil.

If your plants succumb to damping off, with any luck, you will still have time to start a new crop this season.

If you’re direct-sowing seeds, dig a 9-by-9-inch pocket into the soil, and fill it with sterilized seed starting mix.

2. Seedlings Fail to Thrive

You’ve managed to get your seeds to germinate, but now your little seedlings aren’t looking so good.

They may appear stunted or discolored, or like they’ve been soaked in water. You might even notice a cotton-like growth on the soil. You’re likely dealing with damping off.

Cause

Damping off in seedlings is caused by the same fungus or mold – typically Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium –  that can attack seeds and prevent them from germinating.

Solution

It’s important to keep your tools, hands, and containers clean to avoid introducing any of these pathogens. Also, only use sterile potting soil that you’ve either purchased or sterilized yourself.

It can also be spread by fungus gnats, so either cover seedlings, or keep a close eye out for tiny bugs flying around your plants. If you see them, use yellow sticky traps to capture them.

Learn more about damping off in this guide.

3. Leaves Curl or Become Deformed

When zucchini leaves start to curl or become otherwise deformed, the first thing you should look for are aphids.

But you may notice ants on your plants first, if aphids are present. The ants like to feed on the honeydew that aphids leave behind.

Cause

When it comes to these pests, it would be easier to list all the plants that aphids don’t attack. Zucchini is one of the plants they particularly love.

Aphids are tiny, pear-shaped, yellow, pink, brown, gray, green, or black bugs that congregate in groups on the undersides of leaves.

They suck the sap out of the stems and leaves, causing stunted growth and deformity.

Solution

The first step in getting rid of these pests is to blast your plants with a strong spray of water from the hose. Often, if you knock aphids loose, they might not survive the deluge or they’ll move on to other plants.

Next, try spraying plants with a 1:10 solution of dish soap and water. Do this once a day for two weeks.

At the same time, try introducing ladybugs or green lacewings to your garden. These beneficial insects love to munch on aphids.

Finally, if your plants are still struggling, apply a neem oil spray every two to three days for two weeks. You can also use insecticidal soap.

Read more about battling aphids in the garden here.

4. Leaves or Fruits Are Mottled or Distorted

Do your zucchini plant’s leaves look kind of funny?

They might be distorted or unusually small. Or maybe they have serrated edges or dark green blisters.

Eventually, any fruits that form will be stunted and deformed as well.

Bad news. It’s likely zucchini yellow mosaic virus (ZYMV).

Causes

Mosaic virus can be contracted in several ways:

• It can be carried in seeds, which is why it’s important to buy from reputable vendors.
• Aphids can carry it, so keep those little pests out of your garden.
• It can also be spread by you, if you use a tool in one part of the garden and then use it in another part without sanitizing it first.

Solution

Once your plants have mosaic virus, unfortunately there’s nothing you can do. Pull up the plant and destroy it. Don’t add it to your compost. Wash your tools well, and try again next year.

Since the virus can overwinter in weeds in the soil, make sure to clean up your garden bed at the end of the year. To be safe, you may consider planting in a different location.

There is one potential solution, however. If this disease strikes early in the season and you live in a warm climate, you may still be able to get another crop in the ground in time to produce a harvest.

In the future, always be sure to sanitize your shovels, rakes, and clippers between uses. Plant resistant zucchini cultivars, and keep aphids at bay.

5. Parts of the Plant Are Wilting

If part of your zucchini plant is growing as happy as ever while other random sections are wilting, you likely have a pest problem on your hands.

Causes

The larvae of the squash vine borer, Melittia cucurbitae, burrow into the stems of plants such as squash, gourds, pumpkins, and zucchini.

These little pests look like fat, white worms with brown heads, but you’ll only spot them if you slice open an infested vine.

You can also look for the adults, which are wasp-like moths with black bodies and red markings.

If you have an infestation of this pest, random leaves will begin to wilt. You may see green or yellow droppings that look like sawdust around your plants.

Squash bugs, Anasa tristis, are another pest that can cause wilting leaves. Typically, these bugs cause other, more obvious damage, like ragged holes and yellow or brown spots on the foliage.

Squash bugs look a bit like stink bugs. They’re over 1/2 inch long and brown or gray in color. They have wings, but they prefer to walk around on plants instead.

You could also have cucumber beetles, Diabrotica undecimpunctata. These black and yellow bugs are about 1/4 inch long with dark heads.

In addition to causing leaves to wilt, they can stunt plant growth and reduce fruit yields.

Solutions

I find the best way to tackle vine borers is to sprinkle diatomaceous earth around plants. You will need to reapply it every time it rains or after your plants are watered.

You can also trap the adults with yellow sticky traps, or go outside with a flashlight at night and nab them.

If that fails, it’s time to break out the Bacillus thuringiensis. For best results, this beneficial soil-borne bacteria needs to be applied when the eggs are hatching, otherwise the larvae will burrow into the vines where the bacteria can’t reach them.

It’s usually too late if your leaves are already wilting, however. But if you know these pests have been a problem in the past, get a jump-start on them next year and apply Bt as a preventative measure.

You can read more about using Bt for pest control in the garden in this article.

Squash bugs are a formidable foe. Once you have an infestation of adults, I’m not going to lie, you have a challenge ahead to get rid of them. That’s why early detection is key.

Keep a diligent eye out as your plants mature. The first thing you’ll see, if you look carefully, are brown clusters of eggs. Wipe them off of your plants and crush them.

If you find adult squash bugs in the garden, place cardboard on the ground around plants and leave it out for one night. The bugs will congregate underneath it.

The next day, grab the cardboard and crush it between two flat surfaces, wrap it in a plastic bag, and dispose of it in the garbage.

You can also use pesticides containing permethrin, carbaryl, bifenthrin, or esfenvalerate, though this works best right around the time the eggs are starting to hatch.

Be sure to avoid spraying your plants with insecticides once the fruits form.

To tackle cucumber beetles, use yellow sticky traps or just go outside and vacuum your plant. It sounds weird, but it works.

You can also put on rubber gloves and coat your hands in petroleum jelly. Then, go outside and wipe the bugs off your plants.

To prevent cucumber beetles, you can cover seedlings with floating row covers. But if you do this, you’ll need to manually pollinate your plants, or remove the covers for a few hours a day so pollinators can do it for you.

Be sure to check out our guide to identifying and controlling zucchini plant pests.

6. The Entire Plant Wilts

If you step outside to check on your garden, only to find that your entire zucchini plant looks decidedly wilted, there could be a few problems that you’re facing.

One of these is totally fixable. The other… not so much.

Causes

Bacterial wilt is caused by a bacterium, Erwinia tracheiphila, that causes plants to wilt and eventually die. You may notice leaves turning yellow and then brown before they wilt, or this may happen after.

If the entire plant is wilting, this can also be a sign that it isn’t getting enough water. So you will need to do some careful sleuthing to determine what’s what.

Solutions

Try giving your plant a good soak with the garden hose and cross your fingers that it perks up. If not, you probably have a case of bacterial wilt on your hands.

At that point, there isn’t much you can do.

In the future, keep an eye out for cucumber beetles. These little pests spread the disease, so managing them is key.

7. Leaves Have Yellow Spots Turning Brown

If your zucchini leaves develop little yellow spots, you may have squash bugs. You can be especially sure this is the case if those spots start to turn brown.

Cause

Squash bugs, as you may have guessed and as described previously, are pests that feed on plants in the squash family.

They will suck the sap out of your zucchini plants, sometimes causing irreparable damage. They can kill young plants, and reduce yields for mature ones.

As mentioned earlier, they’re light brownish-gray as adults, and the females lay egg clusters in orderly rows on the undersides of leaves.

8. Leaves Have a Powdery Coating

Nearly every gardener has run into powdery mildew at one point or another. If you haven’t already, just give it time. It’s my arch nemesis when it comes to growing zucchini.

You’ll notice white, powdery spots form on the leaves, and those spots will eventually spread until the entire plant looks like it has been dusted in flour.

A little powdery mildew isn’t a big deal, but if it spreads, it can kill the leaves of the plant and reduce the final fruit yield.

Cause

This common disease is caused by a fungus, Podosphaera xanthii, and usually shows up in mid- to late summer because it likes warm, humid weather.

This fungus attacks plants that are crowded and have poor air circulation.

It can travel on the wind, so if plants nearby have it, it’s likely to spread.

Solution

Once you find your plants have it, the most surefire way to tackle powdery mildew is to apply a sulfur-based fungicide according to the manufacturer’s directions.

You can also use neem oil or a biological fungicide like CEASE, available from Arbico Organics.

Next year, keep your plants well-spaced, and keep your garden weed-free. Keep a close eye on your crops, so you can tackle the problem before it spreads, if powdery mildew rears its ugly head again.

Also, avoid over-fertilizing. Only use the minimum amount recommended.

9. Flowers Fall Off the Plant

You head outside to check on your thriving zucchini plant, only to discover that the blossoms that looked so healthy yesterday have fallen to the ground.

Don’t fret, it’s probably not a total disaster.

Causes

The most common cause of flowers falling off the vine is that they are male blossoms that have already done their job.

Zucchini plants are monoecious, meaning they have both male and female flowers. After the male releases its pollen, it drops to the ground.

Sometimes, courgette plants form an early burst of male flowers before the female blossoms develop, so even if all the blossoms seem to be falling, it’s likely not a problem.

However, poor pollination can also cause blossoms to fall. What’s happening is that the blossoms aren’t being pollinated well enough, so the plant decides to drop its blossoms and try again.

If this is the case, try hand pollinating if and when you get a second burst of blossoms.

Solution

It’s hard to tell the difference between what might be evidence of poor pollination versus a normal pattern of male flowers falling off.

But if you see bees and butterflies visiting your plant regularly, it’s probably the latter.

You can also peek at the fallen flowers and see if there is a stigma present or not. If there is, that means your female flowers are falling, and you should get to pollinating the flowers by hand.

We’ll cover manual pollination in the section below and we go into more detail about zucchini blossom drop in this guide.

10. Flowers Form, But No Fruits

If you aren’t getting fruit even though your plant grew flowers, you probably have a pollination problem.

Cause

As mentioned earlier, zucchini plants produce both male and female flowers.

A pollinator carries the pollen from the male to the female blooms, and a little while later, a baby zucchini is born.

If the flower doesn’t get pollinated, then you don’t get fruit.

Solution

If pollinators don’t visit your plant, the best solution is to take a cotton swab or small paintbrush and do the job yourself.

First thing in the morning, head out to the garden. Gather the pollen from a male flower by wiping the anther. You should get a bunch of yellow powder on your swab. Spread it onto the stigma of the female flower.

Re-apply more pollen from a male flower each time you move to a new female flower.

If you did it right, within a day or two you’ll see a thick green bulb form at the base of the female flowers. If you don’t see this happening, do some more manual pollinating.

11. Fruits Have Dark, Sunken Spots or Rot on the Vine

If your fruits start to grow and then suddenly develop dark, leathery spots or look like they’re rotting on the vine, they probably have blossom end rot.

Blossom end rot is caused by a calcium deficiency, but tossing a bunch of eggshells in the garden after you notice signs of a problem isn’t going to help.

Learn more about troubleshooting blossom end rot here.

Cause

Supplementing your plants with calcium after the fruit has already formed and started to show signs of a deficiency won’t work.

This is because calcium deficiency is often caused by a lack of water in the soil, which transports calcium into the plant.

Solution

Once fruits start to rot, it’s too late to help them. But you can prevent this disease from destroying future fruits on the same plant if you have a long enough growing season.

Once plants are already in the ground, the key is water – not adding calcium. You need to give your plants the right amount, on a consistent basis.

The soil should never be allowed to dry out completely beyond 2 inches deep.

You don’t need a fancy tool to gauge this, just stick your finger into the soil, 2 inches down. If it’s dry, your plant isn’t getting enough water.

Zucchini needs about an inch of water a week, and you should be watering at the base of the plant rather than overhead to avoid promoting the onset of other diseases.

You can head this problem off in the future by doing a soil test before planting.

If you discover a calcium deficiency, amend the soil with calcium sulfate or calcium chloride, following the manufacturer’s directions.

Some gardeners also like using dried, crushed eggshells for additional calcium. Just add some to the planting hole before you add your seeds or seedlings.

You should also adjust the pH of your soil to around 6.0-7.5, which is what zucchini plants prefer.

You’ll still need to keep your plants well-watered, however. All the calcium amendments in the world won’t work if the water isn’t transporting it into the plant.

Don’t Let Zucchini Problems Get You Down

If you garden long enough, you’re likely to run into problems at some point. But they don’t have to get you down – it’s all just a part of the process.

Make things easier on yourself by heading out to your garden every day to check on your plants. Look under the leaves for insect eggs, poke your finger in the soil to test for moisture, and look around for bugs – both the good ones and the bad ones.

Herbaceous, Non-Vining

Here are a selection of my favorite herbaceous clematis varieties:

1. Arabella

One of the most popular non-vining varieties, ‘Arabella’ bears six-sepaled star-shaped flowers of deep amethyst that start out with a reddish tint.

The three- to four-inch flowers have cream white stamens and bloom over an exceptionally long season, from early summer to early fall, with blooms followed by ornate, plumed seed heads.

A non-climber, it prefers a full sun location. Its upright growth looks magnificent as a ground cover or container specimen, or weaving through shrubs and deciduous trees.

Hardy in Zones 4 to 10, it quickly grows three to five feet in length. Prune in late winter or early spring, cutting back to a set of strong buds about eight inches above the ground.

‘Arabella’

You can find ‘Arabella’ plants in two-and-a-half-inch pots available from Hirt’s Gardens via Walmart.

2. Mrs. Robert Brydon

Masses of small, half-inch flowers with lavender sepals and prominent platinum stamens form the sparkling clusters that ‘Mrs. Robert Brydon’ is known for.

Blooming from mid- to late summer amid dark green foliage, the flowers are followed by silky seed heads.

The vigorous upright growth can be tied to a trellis for vertical interest. Or you can give it free rein to sprawl and tumble through shrubbery or spread as a lofty, eye-catching groundcover.

Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, it grows six to eight feet in full to partial sun and can be pruned back to three inches in early spring.

3. Sapphire Indigo

Masses of four- to five-inch, sapphire blue flowers form a striking and nearly continuous blooming habit from June to September.

After flowering, the vines are covered with decorative, silky seed heads.

Fast growing, it can be tied up on supports or left to spread as a showy, dense groundcover – and it makes a sumptuous spiller in containers and hanging baskets.

Sapphire Indigo™

Hardy in Zones 4 to 10, it prefers full to partial sun and grows only four to six feet. It flowers entirely on new wood and should be pruned back to six inches in late winter or early spring.

Plants in #1 containers are available from Nature Hills Nursery.

4. Solitary

Non-vining and multi-stemmed with a mounding habit, ‘Solitary’ features dainty, cornflower blue to violet blooms with creamy stamens.

The nodding, two- to three-inch urn-shaped flowers have twisted sepals and an exceptionally long bloom time of mid-May to September.

Flowers are followed by silky, tufted seed heads throughout autumn.

Planted in full or part sun, it’s a natural for scrambling and sprawling over the landscape. It can also be staked or tied to supports, left to weave through shrubs, or used as a spiller in large containers.

And the long-stemmed flowers are excellent for cutting as well!

‘Solitary’

This cultivar grows three to five feet and is hardy in Zones 3 to 7. Prune in early spring to shape only.

You can find plants in two-and-a-half-inch containers available from Hirt’s Gardens via Walmart.

Vining

For a glorious display of summer blooms on a trellis or over an arbor, the vining types are an ideal choice.

5. Aotearoa

An abundance of purple, three- to five-inch star-shaped flowers with contrasting yellow stamens bloom from mid-summer to early fall.

Elegant sepals are slightly recurved at the tips, giving them a graceful, whimsical appearance. Light green leaves are tinged with red around the edges.

These lovely flowers thrive just as well in shady locations as they do in full sun. This is a wonderful performer when growing over arbors, fences, and with climbing roses.

Aotearoa is the Te Reo Maori word for New Zealand, which translates to “the land of the long white cloud.”

‘Aotearoa’ grows nine to 12 feet long and can be pruned to a strong set of buds about 12 inches above the ground in early spring. This cultivar is hardy in Zones 3 to 11.

6. Avant Garde

A large flowering hybrid, ‘Avant Garde’ has stunning, two-inch double flowers of deep, velvety magenta with a center consisting of dahlia-like sepals in flamingo pink.

Bred from disease resistant species, this vigorous plant produces an abundance of flowers.

A robust but well-behaved climber, the two-tone flowers pop among the deep green leaves.

It loves to climb with its head in the sun, and really shines when scrambling over supports such as arbors, fences, and pergolas.

‘Avant Garde’

Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, it needs a full sun location. Cut it back hard in early spring to six to 12 inches, above pairs of healthy buds.

Container plants are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

7. Ernest Markham

With large, velvety flowers of raspberry red and contrasting creamy filaments tipped with chocolate anthers, ‘Ernest Markham’ makes a striking vertical display.

The four- to six-inch blooms are free flowering from midsummer to fall.

It makes a handsome specimen in containers, flowerbeds in cottage and courtyard gardens, or climbing up trellises and through shrubs.

‘Ernest Markham’

It grows 10 to 12 feet and requires a full to part-sun location.

Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it can be pruned in late winter or early spring. Cut just above a set of strong leaf buds, eight to 18 inches above the ground.

Plants in one-gallon pots are available at Burpee.

8. Golden Tiara

This vigorous climber in sunshine yellow has a pleasant fragrance and puts on a long lasting, showy display from early June through September.

The two- to four-inch nodding, lantern-like flowers provide spectacular contrast from the magenta anthers and are followed by large, fluffy seed heads that birds like to use as nesting materials.

With a strong twining habit, it loves to climb up arbors and trellises or through shrubs, making a striking summer screen.

Growing 10 to 15 feet, it likes a full sun location and is hardy in Zones 3 to 9. Cut vines back hard in early spring to 10 to 18 inches, just above a strong set of buds.

9. Hagley Hybrid

A compact vine, ‘Hagley Hybrid’ features a profuse display of showy, eight-sepaled flowers in chiffon pink from May through September.

The large, six- to eight-inch flowers have an opalescent shine that is beautifully highlighted by the dark ruby anthers.

This free flowering vine prefers partial shade, and is an ideal choice to brighten up dark corners on the deck or patio while twining up trellises or through hedges and shrubs.

And its tidy growth makes it a choice selection for containers.

‘Hagley Hybrid’

Hardy in Zones 4 to 11, it grows seven to 10 feet. Prune hard in late winter or early spring to a set of healthy buds about 12 inches above the ground.

You can find plants in four-inch containers available from Wekiva Foliage via Walmart.

10. Happy Jack Purple

Large and velvety plum-colored flowers have a pretty yellow throat and anthers that give charming contrast. The three- to five-inch blooms are long lasting and appear from late June through September.

Highly ornamental with a tidy habit, it’s attractive as a back border planting, in containers, or clambering up supports like arbors and trellises.

Happy Jack® Purple

Hardy in Zones 5 to 9, it likes a full to partial sun location and grows six to eight feet.

Prune vines back in early spring to one to to feet above the ground, leaving two sets of strong buds in place.

Plants in quart-sized containers are available at Home Depot.

11. Jackmanii

An old-fashioned favorite with large velvety flowers of royal purple with magenta ribs and creamy anthers.

Masses of five to seven-inch blooms appear from mid-June to September, and silky platinum or rosy colored seedheads add interest right through autumn.

This prolific vine provides spectacular vertical highlights in the garden. A good climber for arbors, fences, and trellises, it’s also striking as a ground cover or twining through shrubs.

‘Jackmanii’

This cultivar grows 10 to 12 feet, requires full sun, and is hardy in Zones 4 to 9. Prune hard in late winter or early spring to a pair of strong buds about 12 inches from the ground.

You can pick up container plants at Nature Hills Nursery.

12. Pink Fantasy

This compact vine is highly free flowering from July to September.

It features an abundance of four to six-inch blush pink blooms with raspberry bars and matching anthers that really pop against the rich, dark green foliage.

Ideal for small spaces, it makes an attractive specimen in containers, tumbling around rockeries, or weaving through shrubs.

‘Pink Fantasy’

Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, it enjoys a partial shade location. It can handle full sun, however the flowers may fade in intense light.

Prune hard in late winter or early spring to a set of healthy leaves about 12 inches above the ground.

Container plants are available at Burpee.

13. Pink Mink

‘Pink Mink’ produces large drifts of ruffled, candy pink flowers with bold fuchsia bars and yellow anthers that bloom from early June to early October.

A continuous bloomer, it makes an eye-catching specimen where it can climb freely on structures such as fences, pergolas, and trellises.

‘Pink Mink’

Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, it grows nine to 10 feet and prefers a full to partial sun location. Prune hard to about 18 inches in early spring, leaving a set of healthy buds on each vine.

You can find container plants available at Burpee.

14. Princess Diana

A small-flowering vine, ‘Princess Diana’ has distinctive tulip-shaped flowers of raspberry red with hot pink margins and delicate yellow anthers that bloom from June to September.

After flowering, the vines are adorned with flouncy platinum seed heads.

A profuse bloomer, this compact vine requires support for climbing and adds charm as a specimen in containers, as well as cottage and courtyard gardens.

It may also be grown as a groundcover.

‘Princess Diana’

It requires a full to partial sun location and grows six to eight feet. Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it can be cut back to a pair of healthy buds around eight inches above the ground in early spring.

Pick up container plants at Nature Hills Nursery.

15. Ramona

Delightfully cool with sea green leaves, ‘Ramona’ has large, six-petaled lavender-blue flowers with a striking accent of deep, winey purple anthers.

The single flowers measure five to seven inches and bloom prolifically from May to September.

It can be grown in full or part sun and makes a superb choice to cover arbors, fences, pergolas, and walls. It also creates a pretty privacy screen on trellises or weaving through shrubs.

A moderate grower, it reaches eight to 12 feet and is hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

‘Ramona’ can be pruned according to recommendations for Group 2 or 3, but it flowers most proficiently when treated as a Group 3 cultivar.

‘Ramona’

Cut back to two sets of strong buds in late winter or early spring.

Plants in two-and-a-half-inch pots are available from Hirt’s Gardens via Walmart.

16. Rouge Cardinal

A showy vine that produces a profusion of four to six-inch blooms from June to September, ‘Rouge Cardinal’ features flowers of velvety cardinal red with gold filaments and mahogany anthers.

A dependable performer in full sun to part shade, it’s outstanding in containers, as a spiller, on trellises, or climbing through shrubbery.

Hardy in Zones 3 to 8, it grows up to 10 feet. Cut back to a set of healthy leaves about 12 inches above the ground in early spring.

‘Rouge Cardinal’

Grab ‘Rouge Cardinal’ plants in four-inch pots available from Wekiva Foliage via Walmart.

17. Sweet Autumn

‘Sweet Autumn’ is a very vigorous grower with masses of small white cruciform flowers that seem to float on the glossy, dark green leaves.

The flowers are highly fragrant and bloom in August and September followed by attractive, plumed seed heads.

It does well in full sun and is also tolerant of light shade.

This fast-growing vine needs plenty of strong support to accommodate its growth and does well on large structures like fences, pergolas, and sheds.

It also makes a large, matted ground cover that effectively chokes out weeds.

‘Sweet Autumn’

Hardy in Zones 5 to 9, it grows 15 to 30 feet. Cut back to a set of strong buds 12 to 18 inches above the ground in early spring.

Plants in two-and-a-half-inch containers are available from Hirt’s Gardens via Walmart.

18. Sweet Summer Love

Truly a plant that delivers it all, ‘Sweet Summer Love’ has gorgeous cruciform flowers that range in color from cranberry and magenta to royal purple with long, cream colored stamens.

Long blooming, the flowers appear from early July to mid-September and have a lovely, sweet scent of almonds.

It does well in full to partial sun, and needs support from arbors, trellises, or other shrubs.

But be sure to grow it where you can enjoy the juicy colors and pretty fragrance – on pillars, posts, or trellises close to windows, and along patios, decks, and pathways.

‘Sweet Summer Love’

A fast-growing climber, it reaches 10 to 15 feet and can be pruned hard in late winter or early spring – leave at least two sets of buds on each stem. This cultivar is hardy in Zones 4 to 9.

Container plants are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

19. Ville de Lyon

A large-flowering vine, ‘Ville de Lyon’ features a profusion of showy, four to six-inch cherry red flowers with cream and golden stamens.

The sepals have darker, carmine margins and a lovely opalescent sheen that seems to light them from within.

A good choice for long-lasting, sumptuous blooms, it adds flair as an accent, in containers, and climbing vertically on supports like trellises.

Or let it twine and weave through hedges and shrubs.

Hardy in Zones 4 to 8, it grows eight to 12 feet. Cut vines back hard in late winter or early spring to six to nine inches above a set of well-formed buds.

‘Ville de Lyon’

You can find ‘Ville de Lyon’ plants available at Nature Hills Nursery.

A Vine Like No Other

Now that you have a taste for these marvelous plants, will you be adding some to your garden?

Bright, beautiful, and wonderfully easy to care for, summer blooming clematis is a vine like no other.

Fast growing and hardy, you’ll love how versatile these are throughout the garden.

Try them as ground covers, specimen plants, vertical accents, or to add secondary color and added interest to shrubs and deciduous trees – they adapt to almost any setting!

For more information on caring for clematis flowers, be sure to add these to your reading list next: