Category: Home & Garden

All of the hydrangeas in the trial bloom on new wood, which means that the flower buds develop when the shrub starts actively growing in spring and early summer. Plants can be pruned any time from fall to early spring, and even if stems are killed to the ground by extreme cold, the plant will still flower reliably in midsummer. Read about the best native hydrangea species here.

Perhaps due to this adaptability, annual spring cutbacks are a common landscape practice for smooth hydrangeas and related cultivars. As part of our trial, the Mt. Cuba team sought to determine if there are any long-term effects of heavy spring cutbacks. For three consecutive years, one example of each hydrangea was cut back to about 6 to 8 inches above the ground.

The immediate result we noticed, compared to unpruned control plants, was that the plants developed more-compact habits. There was also a slight delay in blooming, though not as much as we expected. Generally, blooming was delayed by just a week or two. The plants that were cut back produced fewer flowers, but these inflorescences were often 20% to 100% larger than those of the control group. For example, ‘Haas’ Halo’, which normally has flower heads that are about 8 inches across, had blooms that were 12 to 16 inches in diameter after a cutback.

We also noticed an unusual increase in sun tolerance for cut-back plants, possibly because their well-established root systems were supporting a smaller number of stems than they normally would have been.

However, the cutbacks did not correct floppy habits, and they had little impact on the overall size of the more compact cultivars. After three years of heavy annual cutbacks, we started to notice a little burnout, typified by lower flower production in the cut-back plants.

Based on these observations, we concluded that a full annual cutback is not the best practice in most cases. We recommend instead a more balanced approach, in which a fifth to a third of the oldest stems are pruned to the ground each year in late winter. This will help keep the plant flowering well, it may keep the habit a little more compact, and it is certainly easier on the plant than an all-out cutback every single year.

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Sam Hoadley is the manager of horticultural research at Mt. Cuba Center in Hockessin, Delaware.

Illustrations: Jessica Daigle

Everyone loves hydrangeas, but nobody wants to see a year’s worth of blooms wiped out by a deep winter freeze or a badly timed pruning session. Fortunately, there are a few closely related North American native species that bloom on new wood, which means they can be pruned any time from fall to early spring, or even killed to the ground by frost, without sacrificing their lovely blooms.

For five years, staff and volunteers at Mt. Cuba Center in Hockessin, Delaware, evaluated smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens, Zones 3–9) and two close relatives: ashy hydrangea (H. cinerea, Zones 4–9) and silver-leaf hydrangea (H. radiata, Zones 3–8). We classified this collection of native plants as “wild hydrangeas.” Most of the plants in the trial were smooth hydrangea cultivars (i.e., nativars), with just a few selections from the other species and one interspecific hybrid.

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Learn more

A Better Way to Prune Smooth Hydrangeas

Which Smooth Hydrangeas are Best for Pollinators? Mophead or Lacecap?

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The inflorescences of wild hydrangeas and related species fall into two categories: lacecaps and mopheads (see “Which Smooth Hydrangeas are Best for Pollinators? Mophead or Lacecap?,”). Most of the plants in the trial bloom for just a few weeks in early summer; however, the flower heads remain attractive through late summer, fall, and even into winter. Most have white flowers, though some pink-flowering cultivars have been introduced in recent years. Unlike the nonnative bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla and cvs., Zones 6–9) and mountain hydrangeas (H. serrata and cvs., Zones 5–9), the flower color of wild hydrangeas and allied species is not affected by soil pH.

Most of the hydrangeas in the trial performed best in shade, which helps to keep sterile flowers and leaves from burning, especially in hotter, drier weather. But we found that many of the cultivars were surprisingly sun tolerant, especially if they had been planted in moisture-retentive, well-drained soil. Some of the pink-flowered varieties scored consistently better in sun than in shade. In hotter summer climates, however, all of these hydrangeas will likely require supplemental water to help them tolerate sun without being damaged.

Native hydrangeas at a glance Hydrangea arborescens, Zones 3–9 / Hydrangea cinerea, Zones 4–9 / Hydrangea radiata, Zones 3–8 Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist, well-drained soil Native range: Eastern and central United States Pests and diseases: Few serious problems Propagation: Softwood cuttings and seed Trial parameters At the Mt. Cuba Center from 2017 to 2021, a total of 29 hydrangeas, including three straight species and 26 cultivars, were evaluated for vigor, habit, floral display, and pollinator performance. Trial duration: Five years Zone: 6b/7a Conditions: Every plant in the trial was grown in full sun, and 19 taxa were also grown in 60 percent shade. The site’s clay-loam soil has a pH around 6.5. Care: To simulate typical landscape maintenance practices, minimal care was provided throughout the trial, with supplemental water given only in the first growing season and during a handful of extremely dry periods.

 

Top hydrangeas with exceptional flowers and habits

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‘Haas’ Halo’ smooth hydrangea (Lacecap)

‘Haas’ Halo’ smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘Haas’ Halo’) earned a perfect score of 5, the only plant in the trial to do so, and was propelled to the top by its stellar pollinator rating. The first time it bloomed in the trial and I saw its oversize lacecap flowers attracting tons of pollinators, I bought one for home the same day. In the trial, plants grown in full sun displayed flower heads that were consistently among the largest in the entire evaluation, averaging 8 inches in diameter. A spring cutback magnified the already substantial floral display and reduced the height of the plant from 7 feet to 4 feet. It had nearly flawless performance in shade, where it displayed uniform growth, dark green foliage, and flower heads that remained attractive for months after their midsummer bloom. If you have space for just one of these wild hydrangeas, ‘Haas’ Halo’ offers the perfect combination of horticultural excellence and pollinator value.

Incrediball® Blush smooth hydrangea (Mophead)

Adding some beautiful color into the mix, Incrediball® Blush smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘NCHA4’) is a petite mophead with pink sterile flowers that become more intensely colored as the fertile flowers prepare to open. With its smaller size, about 4 feet tall and 5 feet wide, it is an accessible choice for smaller spaces. It is also quite sun tolerant, and if it has ample moisture, ample sun, and excellent drainage, it will develop into a truly spectacular shrub. Its super-sturdy stems are especially impressive; they never flop, even when the plant is in full bloom and completely covered with massive flower heads.

Lime Rickey® hydrangea (Mophead)

Another exceptional performer was Lime Rickey® hydrangea (H. ‘SMNHALR’). It was the only interspecific hybrid in the trial, having been developed from a cross between silver-leaf hydrangea (H. radiata) and ‘Pink Pincushion’ smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘Pink Pincushion’). Lime Rickey® is a nice, big, attractive plant that does well in both sun and shade. Its unique mophead blooms have sterile flower buds that start off lime green and then fade to off-white or ivory as they open. The raspberry-pink fertile flowers that open a little later offer a unique contrast; there was no other plant in the trial quite like this one. As the flowers finish, they fade back to a soft green. Unfortunately, those interesting blooms did not attract a large number of pollinators. But if you are a collector of hydrangeas, this is definitely one you’ll want to have.

Front-runners with remarkable vigor and improved performance

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Invincibelle® Spirit II smooth hydrangea (Mophead)

Another mophead, Invincibelle® Spirit II smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘NCHA2’), is tied with Incrediball® Blush for the highest score among pink-flowered cultivars. It is ­bigger and has a more robust habit than Incrediball® Blush, and ­although its blooms are smaller, they contain more fertile flowers per cluster. It also attracted the most pollinators of all the mopheads, though its pollinator counts could not compare to the much higher numbers that the lacecaps attracted. For gardeners who really like a mophead form, Invincibelle® Spirit II is a good compromise, offering an attractive floral display with some pollinator value.

Incrediball® smooth hydrangea (Mophead)

Incrediball® smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘Abetwo’; photo p. 60) is an outstanding upgrade to an enduring favorite. It originated as a seedling from ‘Annabelle’ (H. arborescens ‘Annabelle’), a white mophead with a notoriously floppy habit, especially in mid to late summer, when it requires some kind of support to keep it looking full. Incrediball® fixes every­thing with sturdy stems that easily support those big white mopheads that everyone loves. It is much more reliable in every way. Think of ‘Annabelle’ as a classic heirloom, worth keeping if you have it; however, Incrediball® is a better choice if you are starting a new planting from scratch.

‘Mary Nell’ smooth hydrangea (Lacecap)

‘Mary Nell’ smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘Mary Nell’; photo p. 60) is a lacecap similar to ‘Haas’ Halo’ but with a double ring of sterile flowers around the outside. Like most other lacecaps, it attracted a large number of pollinators. You get both style and substance with this plant. We found that it is a little less tolerant of full sun than some of the other cultivars, so site it in partial or full shade. It may currently be a bit hard to track down, but we are hoping it will be more widely available in the future. ‘Mary Nell’ is a cool hydrangea that deserves to be grown more. If you are a collector, this is another good one to have.

A few more standout hydrangeas that are worth considering

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White Dome® smooth hydrangea (Lacecap)

If you’d like to grow the plant that attracted more pollinators than any other in the trial, White Dome® smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘Dardom’) is the one to track down. It is a big, showy lacecap in the same category with ‘Mary Nell’ and ‘Haas’ Halo’, but with a slightly more compact habit that makes it a better fit for smaller gardens. Unfortunately, lack of availability may be a problem with this plant. We were able to source it at the beginning of the trial, but since then it has become a little more difficult to find. Although it is an older cultivar, it is such a good one that we hope some specialty growers will take an interest in it and make it more widely available.

Smooth hydrangea (Lacecap)

The straight species, smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens), had a score of 4.0, which was not quite high enough to put it on the leaderboard. However, it did receive top marks for pollinator appeal, with its relatively small lacecap flower heads attracting the second-highest number of pollinators in the trial. This is the species from which most of the cultivars in the trial were selected or bred, but it had many more pollinator visits than its offspring with larger, showier inflorescences. It has a large native range in the eastern and central United States, where it is often found growing on slopes in shady, moist woodlands. If you have these conditions, it should do very well for you.

‘Eco Pink Puff’ smooth hydrangea (Lacecap)

‘Eco Pink Puff’ smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens ‘Eco Pink Puff’), a rosy lacecap, is the only plant in the trial that does not produce any sterile flowers. Its unique look grew on me, and by the fifth year I wanted it in my garden. Although the flowers are small, there are around 2,000 of them per inflorescence, by far the highest count of fertile flowers of any plant in the trial. This cultivar did well in shade, but the plants grown in full sun were fuller and the flowers more spectacular. This is another variety that can be tough to track down, but it’s well worth the effort.

Silver-leaf hydrangea (Lacecap)

Silver-leaf hydrangea (H. radiata) is a plant I love, even though it didn’t do that well in the trial. This species is very closely allied with H. arborescens and is native to a small area in the southern Appalachians. It has beautiful, large lacecap flowers that are fairly showy. Its leaves have bright silvery backs that lend great movement to the landscape, especially when there is a light breeze. One caveat is that this species needs to be grown with some shade; the plants in our trial suffered in full sun. Other­wise, it is a great garden plant that is not too hard to find in cultivation. It is at home at the edge of a woodland and has an impressive ability to bring brightness to a shade garden.

Wild Hydrangea Trial Results

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Sam Hoadley is the manager of horticultural research at Mt. Cuba Center in Hockessin, Delaware.

Photos: courtesy of Mt. Cuba Center

Sources:

The following mail-order plant sellers offer many of the hydrangeas featured in this article.

I can’t go back in time and tell my secondary school self to get a haircut – he wouldn’t listen to me anyway. But I can tell you how to prune heavenly bamboo the right way.

A long segue, I’ll admit, but I brought it back around.

You can learn more about growing heavenly bamboo in our guide.

In this primer, you’ll receive the lowdown on all things heavenly bamboo pruning: the why, what, when, and how. And the who? Well, by the end of the guide, that’ll be you!

Here’s what we’ve got up ahead:

A brief note on invasiveness, before we get started:

A shrub native to Japan and China, heavenly bamboo grows very aggressively, and naturalizes in new environments quite easily.

It’s considered especially invasive in the southeastern United States, with N. domestica appearing on many invasive species lists in states throughout the region.

If your area has a “no heavenly bamboo” rule, then by all means skip this guide and get to work on removing any existing specimens from your landscape.

But if you live in a place where cultivating N. domestica is permitted – and not environmentally irresponsible – then have at this here know-how!

Why Prune These Shrubs?

In the gardening game – where your to-do list is never-ending – I’ve found that knowing the “why” really helps to suppress the “why bother?”

Aesthetics

It goes without saying that a plant with dead, damaged, or diseased branches will look way better once that’s all removed.

Even if all the branches are healthy and vibrant, they may leave the plant with a less-than-desirable form overall.

By removing structures that don’t add to the intended shape, you’ll be left with the exact appearance that you want.

And in the case of heavenly bamboo, it definitely looks better once it’s trimmed up a bit.

It may not need the laser-precise, geometrically-shaping cuts that a world-class boxwood hedge requires, but you can’t let N. domestica grow without occasional interference. Not if you expect it to look its best, anyway.

Health

This kinda goes hand and hand with aesthetics, since a healthy plant tends to look better than a sickly one. Even beyond its appearance, pruning heavenly bamboo properly will definitely improve the plant’s health.

Injured or dying plant tissues can act as entry points for disease-causing pathogens, and can also signal to pests that the plant is especially vulnerable.

Even if every part of a plant is at peak health, that doesn’t guarantee its well-being.

When shoots are too densely-packed, inter-plant airflow is reduced, and moisture from rainfall or irrigation hangs around for longer than it should. And when that happens, water-loving pathogens are all the more inclined to visit.

Want to prevent potential infestations and infections? Then you should dial in your pruning!

Vigor

In a botanical balancing act, the aboveground shoots and belowground roots of a plant try to stay in approximate proportion with each other, as X amount of shoot needs the support of X amount of root in order to stay alive, and vice versa.

When you remove some shoots, there’s suddenly a greater amount of roots by comparison and these are out of proportion. This “extra” root mass provides an increase in resources to the remaining shoots, which results in speedier shoot growth and development.

Time this with the flush of springtime growth that already occurs naturally, and you’ve got rejuvenation levels that’ll make Marvel Comics’ Wolverine blush.

What You’ll Need

On board? Great! Here’s what you’ll require to get started:

Next, you have your annual pruning session, in which you should try and shape up your heavenly bamboo by removing no more than a third of the plant’s total aboveground mass.

You can time this session in the middle of winter, in early spring before the first flush of new growth, or any time in between.

During this bout of shaping, remove any bare, leaning, rubbing, or excessively tall canes that detract from the plant’s natural-looking form.

If the growth of your heavenly bamboo is looking rather thick and crowded, increase airflow within the plant by removing a few of the oldest and thickest canes.

When removing a cane, make the cut all the way down to the ground at the base of the stem.

I’m of the opinion that N. domestica looks its best with a natural-looking form, so it’s best to avoid leaving one with a shape that appears manicured! Pruning into a dense hedge can also impede airflow.

Another thing to remember about heavenly bamboo: the red berries contain cyanide. Eaten in large amounts, they may be toxic to birds and household pets such as cats and dogs.

Any concerned gardeners should remove the flowering branches as they bloom in spring to prevent the fruits from forming.

Any removed structures can be composted or tossed onto the brush pile… except for ones that exhibit signs of disease. Any plant material collected from sick plants should be thrown away to prevent spread of infectious pathogens.

If you find the leaves, branches, flowers, and berries you’ve removed are aesthetically pleasing, feel free to use them in floral arrangements! Arranging foliage from the garden is a lovely way to brighten up your interior decor.

That’s when I set out on a journey to discover what makes them so marvelous one year and just average in another.

It turns out, there’s a lot you can do to influence how your roots taste.

Choosing the right cultivar is a big part of the process, but soil quality, fertilizer, temperature, and the time of year in which you grow beets can all impact their flavor.

Ready to make some garden magic? Here are the topics we’ll talk about:

Whether you love beets already or you’re just looking for a way to make them more palatable for yourself and your family, get ready to grow the tastiest roots you’ve ever had!

And by the way, if you need a refresher on how to grow beets, check out our guide.

Why Are Some Vegetables Sweet?

Before we dive into the mechanics, it helps to understand why some vegetables taste sweeter than others.

We’ve all bitten into a sugary-sweet carrot that seems like it must have been candied, and we’ve probably all had carrots that seem closer to a potato in terms of their texture and flavor.

Kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and turnips all do the same thing, varying from sugary sweet and juicy to mild or even bitter.

Why the difference?

Some vegetables adapt to colder temperatures by converting their starches into sugars. In warmer weather, beets contain a higher quantity of starches than sugars.

When cold weather arrives, the plant tries to protect itself from freezing temperatures by producing more sugar to prevent the liquid in the cells from freezing.

That’s why you can plant the same turnip cultivar one year and it’s sweet, but it may be more mild and less tasty the following year. Soil quality, water, and nutritional resources can also cause this reaction.

Some species do this more readily than others, as do some cultivars. Essentially, this means some plants do a better job than others of creating sugar to protect themselves from adverse conditions and shore up their defenses.

While we’re talking about flavor, there are two things that contribute significantly to the flavor of the root besides sugar.

Beets contain an organic compound called geosmin which imparts that earthy flavor that people love (and love to hate).

They also contain betalain, which contributes flavor and the characteristic red coloring. We’ll talk more about that in just a bit.

The Sweetest Cultivars

Beets can naturally vary, containing between eight and 20 percent sugar. They have the highest sugar content of any vegetable.

That’s why we use sugar beets to magically transform the sugars in the root into the granular stuff we use in baking.

Yellow, pink, and white varieties lack the complex flavor of red ones.

While they don’t always contain more sucrose, it tastes like they do because the flavor is more straightforward, without the earthiness of red beets.

That’s because they lack betalain, the bioactive compound that gives the roots their pink and blood-red coloring as well as imparting flavor.

If sweetness is your goal, choose cultivars that lack the red color. Or, try one of these sweeties:

Try to ensure your plants receive consistent and appropriate moisture for the best flavor. As a bonus, the roots will be more tender as well.

Soil that has too little organic matter and too much chemical fertilizer causes beets to be less sweet. These vegetables need lots of boron, though, so it’s not like you can just skip feeding.

So, what should you do to ensure a tasty crop? Let’s take a look.

How to Grow Sweeter Beets

Beyond picking the right cultivar and avoiding the pitfalls described above, there are things you can do to influence the flavor of your crop.

The roots typically mature in about 50 to 60 days. If you can plant and grow them to maturity before temperatures climb above 65°F, they’ll be sweeter than if the weather is warmer.

Since poor soil can impact the texture and flavor of the roots, making them hard and bitter, it stands to reason that better soil will impact the roots in a more positive direction. Rich soil is more likely to help you grow sweet, tender beets.

You should also avoid using commercial fertilizer, if possible. The first step is to test your soil to determine what it needs.

Sometimes, gardeners will add food to the soil when it doesn’t need it or when it only needs a few specific elements. Rather than taking the feed-no-matter-what approach, test your soil first. 

It’s easy, and it’s affordable. Plus, it will help you grow better plants, regardless of what you’re growing. You can pick up soil testing kits or, my personal preference, you can reach out to your local extension and they can help you through the process.

I like working with my local extension because they know my climate and understand the general growing environment, so they can help to shed some light on the specific needs of my garden.

The plants can’t use boron in soil that is too alkaline or if they don’t receive enough moisture. A pH of around 6.0 to 6.8 is best.

Typically, fall beets are sweeter than spring ones because they grow through a longer period of cooler weather, with a concentration of chillier temperatures towards the end of the growing cycle, which is the most important time.

So, plant in the fall as late as you dare for sweeter roots. Beets are totally fine in a light freeze, but once the soil freezes completely, it can cause bolting. Or, it might simply be impossible to get the roots out of the ground.

The general rule is to plant six weeks before the first predicted frost date. Most of the time, I find you can plant several weeks after that and still be fine, depending on how quickly the weather changes and how cold it gets in your region.

In mild climates, gardeners can grow beets all winter long. In colder climates, you might need to grow yours in a cold frame if you want January veggies.

Speaking of winter, there’s a practice known as chill sweetening in which you plant your crops a few weeks before the first frost and then you leave them there over the winter. This causes even more of the starches to convert to sugar and, come spring, you’ll be enjoying some sugary joy.

The greens will probably die back, but once you can work the soil in the spring, you’ll find extremely sweet roots.

Finally, younger roots tend to be sweeter. Pick them when they’re not quite fully mature, about a week before the typical maturity date.

We watch The Weather Channel a lot in my household. There’s even a family joke that my husband missed his calling by not becoming a meteorologist. Nearly every morning starts off with a cup of coffee and weatherman Jim Cantore in the background regaling us with what corner of North America is under a tornado threat or is receiving the ­decidedly more interesting “thunder snow.” During most of last year, though, the headline ­weather story was drought: drought in the Southeast, drought in the Midwest, and record-­breaking drought in the West—which was so severe that it sparked numerous wildfires and caused water levels in Lake Mead to drop to frighteningly low levels. According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, record drought gripped much of the United States in 2022. This, of course, put many of our landscapes, which were not designed for drought, into trouble.

Drought is nothing new. For much of the last 23 years the Southwest has been dealing with a “megadrought,” which not only is expected to persist but is likely to intensify and expand east. As you may have already guessed, this lack of water has had implications for gardeners and landscapes. Plants that require constant and consistent moisture are no longer viable (or responsible) choices for many of our beds and borders. Instead, as temperatures rise and rain events become scarcer, it’s smart—from both an environmental and economic standpoint—to invest in plants that can take it drier. Many folks assume this means transitioning their lush, leafy gardens into desert-like xeriscapes. That doesn’t have to be the case. Water-wise landscapes can be lush and overflowing with plants, but ­achieving that look requires making informed plant ­choices. The following drought-tolerant designs offer inspiration if you’re looking to use less ­water but not sacrifice any beauty.

Design Strategy 1 / Match the Plant Density to the Space Size

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The square footage will determine your drought-tolerant garden plan

Drought-tolerant gardens come in all shapes and sizes. From a large, expansive bed that runs the entire length of a property line to a small nook that bakes all day by the roadside, water-wise designs can be adapted to almost any square footage. Just remember that plants compete for resources, so if you’re packing a lot of them into a tiny space, you’ll need to ensure that all your selections require very little water. In beds that are larger and more spaced out, you’ll be able to incorporate plants that may need a bit more moisture because there will be more room for the roots to stretch out and seek it. The key to an eye-catching water-wise design is repetition and layering, just as it is in any other type of garden.

For an average-size bed, pay close attention to the balance

Every plant you purchase has a tag that lists the anticipated height and width of that plant. This is meant to guide you in spacing your selections. But we gardeners regularly take those recommendations with a grain of salt, choosing instead to place plants closer together. In most cases, that’s no big deal. But in a water-wise bed, you want to follow those spacing guidelines more closely so that you avoid creating a patch that is overly root bound (and therefore unable to retain much soil moisture). The area pictured here is 6 square feet and is only planted with eight or so drought-tolerant perennials.

Key water-wise plants

1. ‘Sea Foam’ artemisia (Artemisia versicolor ‘Sea Foam’, Zones 4–9)
2. ‘East Friesland’ salvia (Salvia nemorosa ‘East Friesland’, Zones 4–7)
3. Bearded iris (Iris × germanica cv., Zones 3–10)
4. Yarrow (Achillea millefolium cv., Zones 3–9)

 

Larger spaces make larger plants possible

One myth about water-wise designs is that you’re better off relying on smaller plants with smaller root systems. This is only partly true. If you have a larger bed like this border, you can use some larger plants (even trees and shrubs) as long as you choose drought-tolerant species and use them sparingly. Arborvitaes (Thuja spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), for example, hold up quite well in dry conditions once established. Even many bulky perennials with extensive root systems—such as alliums, calamints, and ornamental grasses—are suitable for dry gardens as long as they have the space to share resources.

Key water-wise plants

1. Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis, Zones 3–9)
2. Rattlesnake master (Eryngium yuccifolium, Zones 4–9)
3. Calamint (Calamintha nepeta subsp. nepeta, Zones 5–7)
4. ‘Summer Beauty’ allium (Allium ‘Summer Beauty’, Zones 5–8)

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Tip: “Native” doesn’t always mean “drought tolerant”

Because native plants are generally adapted to the natural conditions of a particular region, many believe that in areas prone to drought, native plants will be drought tolerant. But that’s not necessarily true. As the climate changes over time, many native plants will be unable to thrive in the “new norm,” be it drier, wetter, hotter, or colder. Before planting, do some research to identify an individual plant’s threshold for drought rather than just assuming that “native” is synonymous with “drought tolerant.”

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In the smallest spots, less is more

Not every dry garden has the luxury of endless square footage. In spots such as hellstrip plantings or full-sun crevices, which are ubiquitous in many urban areas, you’ll need to use fewer plants that are truly tough as nails. Succulents, cacti, and even some smaller species of ornamental grasses are good choices here, but be sure to space them liberally. Even desert natives will compete for what little water is available.

Key water-wise plants

1. Echeveria (Echeveria cv., Zones 9–12)
2. ‘Cyclops’ aeonium (Aeonium ‘Cyclops’, Zones 10–12)
3. Spiral aloe (Aloe polyphylla, Zones 9–12)
4. Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima, Zones 7–11)

 

Design Strategy 2 / Focus on Color or Texture

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Eye-catching traits take your beds to the next level

If you’ve ever searched “xeric garden” on the internet, you’re likely familiar with the spaces that dominate the images that pop up. Those spaces are usually filled with large, fleshy succulents and cacti covered in fluffy spines. Strong, bold textures are commonplace in dry gardens thanks to plants like these. On the other side of the spectrum, many of the herbaceous perennials that we lean on in drier conditions can be extremely floriferous and put on an impressive show with their pink, blue, and brilliant yellow blooms. One thing is for sure: Drought-tolerant designs are never lacking
in focal-point plants, and the following are just a few gorgeous examples of plants that put color and/or texture front and center.

Similar textures allow complementary hues to shine

Most of the plants in this gravel garden are finely ­textured. The foliage is narrow, sometimes bladelike, and exudes a soft appearance akin to feathers. This creates the perfect staid backdrop for the various colorful blooms to pop. Yellow and purple are opposites on the color wheel, so planting the golden-hued yarrow with the lilac Russian sage and plum-colored Tennessee coneflower creates striking visual impact.

Key water-wise plants

1. ‘Walter Funcke’ yarrow (Achillea millefolium ‘Walter Funcke’, Zones 3–9)
2. ‘PowWow White’ coneflower (Echinacea purpurea ‘PowWow White’, Zones 4–9)
3. Purple Tennessee coneflower (Echinacea tennesseenis, Zones 3–10)
4. Russian sage (Salvia yangii, Zones 5–9)
5. Autumn moor grass (Sesleria autumnalis, Zones 5–9)

 

A bonanza of color and texture never fails to impress

It’s hard to decide what’s more impressive in this hot hillside garden—the vibrant colors or the bold textures. This space proves that you can combine plants with both eye-catching hues and standout foliage to great effect. The treelike yuccas (Yucca cv., Zones 5–9) in the background have a coarse yet bushlike texture that contrasts with the rough leaves of Jerusalem sage. Pops of shocking magenta from the bougainvillea and moody purple from the Chinese fringe flower foliage add drama to the entire scene.

Key water-wise plants

1. Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea cv., Zones 9–11)
2. Jerusalem sage (Phlomis russeliana, Zones 5–9)
3. Chinese fringe flower (Loropetalum chinense, Zones 7–9)
4. ‘Cherokee Chief’ dogwood (Cornus florida ‘Cherokee Chief’, Zones 5–9)

 

Pair bold with fine for a foolproof combo

Yes, the streaked iris foliage and the soft ­amethyst allium blooms are lovely in this simple combination. But what really stands out is how the threadlike stems and filament-like flowers of the alliums contrast with the wide, smooth leaves of the iris. It’s a texture mash-up that is hard to look away from. If your low-water spot can only hold a couple plants, selecting ones with contrasting textures is a recipe for success.

Key water-wise plants

1. Gold variegated sweet iris (Iris pallida ‘Aureo Variegata’, Zones 4–8)
2. Giant allium (Allium giganteum, Zones 4–9)
3. Caucasian sedum (Sedum spurium, Zones 3–8)

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Danielle Sherry is the executive editor.

Photos: Danielle Sherry

Drought-tolerant landscapes come in all shapes and sizes. From a large, expansive bed that runs the entire length of a property line to a small nook that bakes all day by the roadside, water-wise designs can be adapted to almost any yard. Just remember that plants compete for resources, so if you’re packing a lot of them into a tiny space, you’ll need to ensure that all your selections require very little water. When designing your drought-resistant garden, follow the these strategies to ensure success.

1. Identify soil and exposure conditions first

Any garden, regardless of size, is going to have conditional variations from one spot to the next. In one area you might have dappled shade while the rest of the garden has full-sun exposure. Or you may have pockets of sandier, well-drained soil within a bed that is primarily compacted clay. Doing a site assessment of soil and sun conditions before you start planting can help you determine which plants will do best in specific sections.

Learn more:

Identifying Degrees of Light and Shade

Get to Know Your Soil

2. Choose plants that suit the site

We’ve all heard it a thousand times, but “Right plant in the right place” is a mantra for a reason. If you have a particularly dry area in baking hot sun, it’s not a good idea to plant something that prefers partial shade or that isn’t taprooted. It’s best to use plants that thrive under existing site conditions.

Learn more:

Right Plants, Right Places

3. Get them established, then leave them be

Even drought-tolerant plants require supplemental watering when they’re first getting established. Once the root system has expanded—generally after the first full year in situ—the plant will require less care. Always spread mulch to help conserve soil moisture and to deter thirsty weeds.

Learn more

Putting Mulch to the Test

Six Tips for Effective Weed Control

 

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Danielle Sherry is the executive editor.

Illustration: Elara Tanguy

A lot of people plant marigolds because they’re so easy to grow. They reseed themselves without becoming invasive, tolerate drought, and hardly seem bothered by pests or diseases.

But no plant is impervious to problems.

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Marigolds can be attacked by many different disease pathogens, though it doesn’t happen too often. Typically, marigolds will be struck by disease only when they’re already stressed.

Crowding, overwatering, and poorly draining soil can all bring disease your way.

Sometimes, even despite our best efforts, easy-going plants like marigolds might be infected by pathogens like fungi or bacteria.

It’s frustrating, but diseases don’t have to spell disaster. Coming up, we’ll discuss the most common marigold diseases and how to deal with them. Here are the baddies to watch for:

9 Common Marigold Diseases

Many diseases can be avoided by using smart gardening practices like crop rotation, careful watering, appropriate spacing, and cleaning your garden tools in between use.

But if all that fails, this guide will walk you through what to do.

1. Alternaria Leaf Spot

There are several diseases that can cause spots to form on the foliage of marigold plants.

Alternaria tagetica is a fungus that causes dark brown or black spots to form. These spots may or may not have a yellow, chlorotic ring around the margin.

The spots will eventually grow and merge until the entire leaf is dead, at which point, it might fall from the plant.

It’s not just the leaves that are impacted, though they’re usually the first to show symptoms. The flower petals might also develop spotting and will turn black and shrivel up.

The first step is to remove any symptomatic leaves or flowers.

Be extremely careful not to get any water on the leaves of the plant when irrigating, because this will just enable the pathogen to spread even further.

Then, spray every few weeks with a copper fungicide and a product that contains mancozeb.

Copper acts as a protectant, creating a protective barrier that fungal pathogens can’t penetrate. Mancozeb disrupts the lifecycle of the fungi.

Together, they give you a fighting chance against alternaria. Spray them at the same time, allowing the first to dry before applying the next product.

Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide

You can pick up a 32-ounce ready-to-use bottle, a 16- or 32-ounce ready-to-spray bottle for your hose, or a 16-ounce concentrate of Bonide Liquid Copper Fungicide at Arbico Organics.

In the future, appropriate spacing, careful weed control, and crop rotation every other year will help keep A. tagetica away from your marigolds.

2. Aster Yellows

Pretty much every plant in the Asteraceae family may be impacted by aster yellows.

It’s spread by aster leafhoppers (Macrosteles fascifrons), which carry the bacteria-like phytoplasma that causes the disease.

The symptoms can be a little all over the place. Typically, the flesh between the veins will turn yellow or white but the veins remain green.

The leaves might also twist and distort. Flowers will exhibit discoloration and deformed growth.

The flower head might develop leaf-like formations and growths that look like a second head coming out of the center of the blossom.

There’s nothing you can do to cure this disease. You’ll have to pull the plants and dispose of them.

Our guide to aster yellows can help you understand the issue and learn how to try to prevent it.

3. Bacterial Leaf Spot

Bacterial leaf spot sucks. Not because of the way it disfigures a plant, but because there’s no known cure. You’ll have to tear out the plant.

Because there are several diseases that may cause spots on the leaves, you’ll want to make sure you positively identify the symptoms you see as bacterial leaf spot, not alternaria or septoria.

Look for dark brown or black spots with purple margins.

Caused by the bacteria Pseudomonas syringae pv. tagetis, this pathogen only impacts marigolds.

But once it’s in your garden, you won’t get rid of it unless you pull all the marigolds you have and leave them out of your garden altogether for at least a year or two.

It spreads via water, so avoiding overhead watering can help to prevent it from spreading.

4. Botrytis Blight

Also known as gray mold, botrytis blight infects a wide range of plants. Marigolds are just a few among dozens of species, and unfortunately, this disease can be difficult to prevent and control.

When the fungus Botrytis cinerea infects Tagetes species, it causes water-soaked lesions on the stems, leaves, and flowers.

The tissue inside these lesions will eventually die. Once they do, gray mold colonizes the dead tissue.

Botrytis can lay dormant in dead or living tissue, waiting for the ideal conditions with lots of moisture and temperatures between 65 and 75°F.

Prevention includes taking care only to water at the soil level and not on the plants themselves.

Straw mulch can help to keep water from splashing up onto plants, and appropriate spacing helps too. If you crowd your marigolds, it increases humidity and the time it takes for plants to dry out.

Typically, it’s best just to pull any infected plants or clip off the infected parts.

Unless you have an important reason to try and control the disease on your plants, such as a sentimental favorite marigold you’ve been cultivating via seed season after season, there’s no reason to use chemical treatments.

For that reason, we’re only going to discuss biological control.

When it comes to controlling an existing infection, this requires a multi-step approach. You need to address the spores as they wake up and start spreading in the spring and again in the fall as the weather starts to cool.

You also want to rotate the chemicals you use, because the fungi can quickly become resistant to whatever you use.

In the spring, use something that will attack the developing spores, such as a product containing the beneficial fungi Trichoderma spp. or Ulocladium oudemansii (strain U3).

Follow the manufacturer’s directions for application.

BotryStop WP contains U. oudemansii (strain U3) and was developed specifically to stop botrytis from growing and spreading.

BotryStop WP

It’s available in a 12- or 30-pound supply at Arbico Organics. Go in with your friends to split it.

The following year in the spring, alternate with something like RootShield® Plus WP, which contains ​​T. harzianum strain T-22 and T. virens G-41.

RootShield® Plus WP

It’s also available at Arbico Organics. Grab it in one-, three-, or 50-pound packages.

Then, just before the fall of the second year, switch to something different to tackle any spores that survived the first round of treatment.

Mycostop biofungicide contains the beneficial fungus Streptomyces strain K61. Apply it every few weeks to spray your plants in the late summer before fall symptoms appear.

Mycostop Biofungicide

Purchase five or 25 grams from Arbico Organics. A little goes a long way, and you’ll find this biofungicide is extremely useful for addressing lots of different fungal issues.

5. Fusarium Wilt

The soilborne fungus that causes Fusarium wilt,  Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. callistephi, is a real jerk.

The pathogen can survive for years and years in the soil, and the available treatment doesn’t work well.

Symptoms include wilting even when plants receive the right amount of water, and the death of young seedlings as well as mature plants. You might even see dark streaks running up one half of the plant.

Some infected marigolds might not produce seeds, or if they do, seed production will be greatly reduced and these will often be sterile. Overall growth might be stunted, and the roots might turn black.

If you notice your plants have symptoms, your only good option is to pull and dispose of them. Don’t put them in your compost.

Then, plant any future marigolds in containers with fresh potting mix instead of in the garden beds, at least for the next five years or so.

6. Root Rot

Are you noticing stunted, wilting marigolds in the garden? Are leaves or flowers turning yellow or brown and dying? They might have root rot.

Caused by the fungus Rhizoctonia solani or Pythium oomycetes, it can also cause the stems to crack and the roots to turn brown and mushy as they rot away.

Only a lab test can tell you which pathogen is causing the problem, but it doesn’t matter much. Both thrive in 75 to 85°F temperatures and lots of moisture. They can be spread on tools, through water, or in contaminated soil.

That’s why good garden hygiene is crucial. Always sanitize your tools, whether you do that by washing them with soap and water, soaking them in a 1:9 solution of bleach and water, or both.

Ensuring that you plant in well-draining soil and avoiding overwatering will also help to prevent rot.

Sadly, if your plants are infected, the best option is to pull and dispose of them.

7. Septoria Leaf Spot

Another disease that results in spots on the leaves, this one is caused by the fungus Septoria tageticola.

It differs from Alternaria in that the spots are grayish-black and they lack the chlorotic halo. Inside the rotting circle, you’ll see fungal spores if you look closely.

Typically, the problem starts at the bottom of the plant and moves higher up as the disease progresses.

As with so many fungal pathogens, it thrives in temperatures above 60°F, especially when there’s also lots of moisture present, whether that’s from rain, high humidity, or irrigation.

Seeds might be infected and the disease will later appear on mature plants, or it can be transmitted in water or on yard tools. That’s why watering at the soil level, good air circulation, and appropriate spacing are vital.

To kill any pathogens on the seeds, soak them in 115°F water for 30 minutes. Plant straight away.

Cut off any infected leaves and treat the plants with a copper fungicide every three weeks for as long as symptoms are present.

8. Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

This disease is spread by a virus that causes young leaves to turn bronze and older leaves to develop dark spots.

As the name suggests, it also causes the plants to wilt. Flowers might also die off.

Tomato spotted wilt virus is spread by Western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis), so controlling them helps to keep your marigolds and many other plants safe.

Our guide to controlling thrips can help you with that.

But once it’s present, the only thing you can do is rip out and dispose of the infected plants.

It might be tempting to just leave them in the ground, but this virus attacks all kinds of species, including nightshades, legumes, and cucurbits.

If you’re growing marigolds as a companion plant to try and control pests, it won’t do much good if it ruins your tomato harvest.

9. Verticillium Wilt

This disease is caused by the same pathogen that infects box elder trees and watermelons – the fungus Verticillium dahliae. In other words, it’s a problem for a huge range of plants.

In marigolds, it causes part of the plant to wilt and die, with yellow and brown leaves. As the disease spreads, the entire plant will die. While it can take years to kill a large plant, a marigold might die in a few months.

The disease attacks the roots first, killing them. That’s what in turn causes the upper parts of the plant to die.

The fungi can live in the soil for a long time, and it can live on fallen plant debris. Crop rotation, solarizing soil, and cleaning up the garden in the fall are all effective in at least slowing its spread.

Remember that Mycostop biofungicide we mentioned above? It’s an effective treatment for vert. Just be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions closely.

Make Your Marigolds Merry

Don’t scroll through this list and conclude that marigolds just aren’t worth the trouble.

True, there are many diseases that can attack marigolds, but they rarely do. Especially if you use smart garden practices like crop rotation, appropriate spacing, and watering at the soil level.

If you grow your plants in potting soil in a container, you reduce the chances of contracting any of these diseases even more. And marigolds are so cute in containers!

Which disease are you dealing with? What symptoms or challenges are you facing? Let us know in the comments if you’re having trouble, and we’ll try to help.

If you’re ready to continue your marigold-growing adventures, we have lots of guides to help you on your way:

Collaborative post

Are you looking for tips on creating a cosy, family-friendly home? Whether you’re a new parent, a seasoned family, or simply planning for the future, this guide is designed to help you create a warm, inviting and practical space that caters to everyone’s needs.

Understanding the basics: what makes a home family-friendly?

A family-friendly home is more than just a place where the family resides. It’s a nurturing environment where each member feels safe, loved, and free to express themselves. This begins with a flexible layout that accommodates everyone’s needs.

Rooms should be adaptable, growing with your children and changing with your circumstances. Incorporate open spaces for shared activities, and provide cosy corners for quiet moments. Safety is paramount, so ensure there are no hazards that could harm little ones. Finally, a family-friendly home is warm and inviting, resonating with the shared experiences and unique stories of your family.

Designing for comfort: selecting the right furniture

Comfort is key when creating a family-friendly home. The right furniture not only adds aesthetic value, but also promotes relaxation and togetherness.

Start with the living room, often the heart of family interaction. Choose a soft, durable sofa that can withstand spills and daily wear and tear. Opt for rounded-edge coffee tables to prevent injuries, and consider storage ottomans for additional space.

In bedrooms, select supportive mattresses and ergonomic chairs for study areas. Consider also the functionality of furniture; bunk beds can be excellent space savers.

The right furniture will invite use, encouraging family members to gather, relax, and enjoy their time together. Striking a balance between style, comfort, and practicality will help you create a cosy, family-friendly home.

Safety first: child-proofing your home

Child proofing is an essential step in creating a family-friendly home. This is not a one-time event, but an ongoing process. As your children grow, their curiosity will evolve, and so should your safety measures.

Begin by securing heavy furniture to the wall to prevent tipping accidents. Install safety gates at the top and bottom of stairs and ensure windows have locks, particularly on upper floors. Cover electrical outlets and keep cords and blinds out of reach to protect curious hands. In the kitchen, use stove guards and lock cupboards that contain cleaning supplies. Make sure bathrooms have non-slip mats, and consider a toilet lock for younger children.

Child proofing extends to the garden as well. Ensure its fenced, and ponds or pools are securely covered.

Outdoor bliss: making the most of your garden space

Your garden offers a treasure trove of opportunities for family fun, relaxation, and connection with nature. Designing a family-friendly outdoor space requires a balance between play areas, dining spaces, and serene spots. Ultimately, your garden should be a safe, engaging space that the whole family can enjoy.

Consider installing a sturdy swing set or a trampoline for the children’s exercise and enjoyment. It’s also a good idea to allocate space for a patio set so the family can enjoy alfresco meals on sunny days.

When it comes to plants, go for a mix of perennials for year-round colour, and grow vegetables or herbs to teach children about nature’s cycles. If you’re planning an extension, remember to consider any large trees. You may need a tree survey to ensure the safety and stability of the building project and to comply with local regulations.

The heart of the home: designing a family-friendly kitchen

The kitchen is often considered the heart of the home, a place where meals are prepared, homework is done, and memories are created. A well-designed kitchen is functional, comfortable, and fosters family togetherness.

To design a family-friendly kitchen, consider an open-plan layout that allows for supervision of children while cooking. Opt for durable, easy-to-clean surfaces to cope with spills and messes. A breakfast bar or island provides a versatile space for quick meals, baking sessions, or arts and crafts. Think about safety features like rounded corners, high-placed appliances, and stove guards. And don’t forget ample storage; consider lower cabinets for children’s dishes and snacks to give them a sense of independence.

Crafting a quiet retreat: master bedroom ideas for parents

While family spaces are important, parents also need a quiet retreat to recharge. The master bedroom should be a sanctuary, a place of calm and comfort where you can unwind and enjoy moments of tranquillity away from the family hustle and bustle.

Choose a soothing colour palette – soft blues, greys, or earth tones can create a relaxing atmosphere. Invest in a quality bed and mattress for restful sleep, and consider blackout curtains to block out early morning light.

Adequate storage is crucial to maintain a clutter-free space, so incorporate built-in wardrobes or under-bed storage solutions. A cosy chair or a small loveseat can provide a spot for reading or quiet reflection. Adding personal touches, like photos or favourite artwork, can make the space truly yours.

A place for everything: organising tips for a clutter-free home

A clutter-free home is a peaceful home. Good organisation can make daily routines smoother and also reduce cleaning time.

Start by decluttering, keeping only what you need and love. Utilise storage solutions like baskets, shelving, and drawer organisers to give everything a designated place. Consider furniture with built-in storage to maximise space. Teach children to tidy up their toys and belongings, making it a part of their daily routine.

In the kitchen, use clear containers for food storage and label everything for easy access. Regularly sort through clothing, books, and toys to donate or sell what’s no longer needed. Being organised isn’t about perfection; the aim is to create a space that’s functional and comfortable for the whole family.

We hope these tips help you to transform your living space into a haven that embodies the spirit of family and homeliness.

While I’m not sure that the smell of Irish Spring soap reminds me of rolling green hills and fairies, it is certainly a strong, fresh scent that people love. To keep things natural, I tried my hand at making homemade Irish Spring soap, and I love not only the smell, but how beautiful it turned out. You can make it too!

I try to make all kinds of soap recipes. From experimenting with traditional lard soap to unscented soap for sensitive skin soap that helps stop acne, I want to try and help out as many skin types as possible.

For myself, I like to keep things low-key. I have sensitive skin, so I’m very careful with the additives I put on my skin and soap.

I typically stray away from strongly scented soap, but I know that some people love it! It can be great for deodorizing after a workout or cooking in the kitchen. It can also awaken the senses on a sleepy morning.

When it comes to strongly scented soap, no one can take the crown away from Irish spring soap. Since I make all my own products and always put the skin first, I wanted to make a homemade Irish Spring Soap.

If you want to make your own, too, try this recipe! It’s also a stunning bar of soap, if I do say so myself.

This post will cover…

Irish Spring Soap Ingredients

The top ingredients in store-bought Irish Spring soap are sodium tallowate, sodium palmate, sodium cocoate, and sodium palm kernelate. These are lye combined with tallow, palm oil, coconut oil, and palm kernel acid.

For my soaps, I typically avoid using palm oil simply because it’s difficult to source sustainably. I have never made tallow soap but have experimented with lard soap before, and it can make good, affordable soap.

For my version of Irish Spring soap, I made my base with coconut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and shea butter. It’s quite moisturizing and leaves your skin feeling silky after washing.

Irish Spring Soap Scent

Of course, fragrance is also listed under the ingredients list of the store-bought version, which is always something you want to avoid. Fragrance is typically a complex chemical mixture, and most fragrances are irritants that can cause allergies, headaches, and asthma.

Irish Spring is marketed as a deodorant soap, so it’s trying to smell overly strong. The fragrance doesn’t go into specifics, but it has bergamot and citrus top notes, floral middle notes, and a hint of woodsy base notes. To me, it almost reminds me of a car air freshener.

I created a version that also will evoke a strong, fresh scent without the irritants and the sneezing. To do this, I use bergamot, lavender, lemon, and eucalyptus essential oils.

Irish Spring Soap in the Garden

Soap in the garden?! No, I have not gone off the rocker.

Many people have touted that Irish Spring soap can be used in the garden to help repel pests. While I haven’t given it a try myself, perhaps it’s the solution you’ve been looking for.

You can hang Irish Spring soap in your garden, and the strong smell can keep animals out that have sensitive noses, like deer or rabbits. The fresher the soap, the more likely it will work.

People also claim you can use it for insects eating your plants. You can coat the bar along the edges of containers and beds.

Just note that Irish Spring soap doesn’t discriminate against its pests. Sure, it may make a mouse scrunch up its nose, but it may also repel those ladybugs helping feast on the aphids attacking your veggie garden.

So experiment with caution and only use natural Irish Spring in the garden to avoid introducing any unwanted chemicals. Personally, I prefer other methods for keeping pests out of the garden.

How to Make Irish Spring Soap

This DIY Irish spring soap is made from very gentle ingredients. I use my moisture blend, comprising mostly of coconut oil and olive oil, for a very soft and silky feeling soap. Add some natural mica, and it looks even better than the store-bought version!

Materials

Ingredients

For exact measurements, refer to the recipe card at the end of this post.

Jump to Recipe

Make It!

If this is your first time making soap, I highly recommend you check out this post first. I go into more detailed instructions about each step there.

First, don your safety gear and begin measuring your ingredients using the kitchen scale.

Gently heat your oils and butter in a double boiler, stirring occasionally. You want to heat them until they reach 115°F.

Meanwhile, you can add your lye to the water in a heatproof container. Make sure you’re in a well-ventilated area because, boy, are lye fumes ever strong and smelly. Continuously stir until the lye dissolves. Place the container in an ice bath to help cool it down until it also reaches 115°F.

When both the oils and lye water are about the same temperature, add the lye to the oils in a large mixing bowl. Use an immersion blender to reach a light trace.

Add in your essential oils and give it a quick blend again. Then, follow these instructions to make a 3-point swirl using the blue and green mica powder.

Pour your mixture into the soap mould, and then top it off with dried bachelor button and calendula petals for decorations.

Let the soap mould sit somewhere warm for 48 hours before you cut it into equal bars. Once cut, let the soap cure for six weeks, and then it’s ready to use!

Frequently Asked Questions About Irish Soap

More Soap Recipes to Try

A commenter takes exception to my giant bread-filled compost pile:

“@davidthegood, why would one want to introduce GMO wheat which has been sprayed with Glyphosate as an ingredient to compost and then add to that as a top dressing to foods which one will be consuming? This seems like total insanity and a huge contradiction to me if one is supposedly growing organically. You pay attention to the hay you are willing to accept into your garden, so I will ask why are you not applying the same ethics to your compost?”

I responded:

“First, hay with Grazon will literally destroy a garden. This bread almost certainly will not. Second, 99% of Americans are eating this type of bread at some point. Composting it and transforming the waste into a better food is worth teaching. Third, composting it is less destructive than throwing it in a landfill. Fourth, nature is very good at breaking down and binding up various traces of toxins that may be in this bread. That’s my reasoning – start with what you have and do your best. The main point is to grow food, and if we follow the organic purity spiral, pretty soon we’re making gardening almost impossible again.”

My “ethic” on growing food and composting is to, first of all, grow food to feed your family.

If you can’t scavenge for materials to make compost because you’re terrified that they might have some pesticide residues in them, you’re going to be in a bad place. If you are scared to till, so you make a tiny little no-till garden that feeds almost no one, then you are in a bad place. If you are afraid of all chemical fertilizers so you try to only use compost when you don’t have near enough compost, then you are in a bad place.

Grow food first. Even a conventional sprayed garden in a backyard is better than a huge, conventional farm far away, with produce that is transported thousands of miles and handled by unknown people in unknown ways, and then, after aging for too long, is purchased in plastic bags at your local supermarket.

You really can get stuck in an organic purity spiral.

I don’t like GMOs, pesticides, herbicides and other evils, but we have to work with what we have.

And when life gives us a pile of factory bread, we compost it.

My line is drawn at spraying chemical pesticides. We do not do that in our gardens, since we don’t want to eat produce that has been sprayed with poison. The entire idea makes me sick and strikes me as true insanity.

Consider This

When I till a garden large enough to feed our family, I am told we should never till

When I make compost, I am often told it’s the “wrong way”

When I use deep mulch, I am told that “deep mulch attracts slugs and bugs”

When I use commercial fertilizer I am told I’m poisoning my garden

When I used supposedly “organic” manures I really did poison my garden, killing most of my plants

When we use cardboard as a weedblock, we’re told that there are toxins in cardboard

When we use plastic as a weedblock, we’re told that plastics will destroy the earth

When we capture rainwater we’re told it’s contaminated by the roof, the barrel, or by planes spraying poison in the sky

When we don’t capture rainwater we’re told we’re being wasteful and “why in the world would you use city water???”

 

Obviously, the answer to all of this is to quit gardening, right?

No. Just do your best with what you have, and works towards being a good steward of the land you have. You’ll never please everyone, and you’ll never do anything at all if you listen to all the opposing voices.

Grow food the best you can and let God sort it out.

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Today we’re in the Mohawk Valley in central New York State, visiting with Lee. We’ve see Lee’s beautiful garden before (Back to the Mohawk Valley), but today it is from a very different perspective.

Greetings again! I enjoy the early spring arrivals in the form of “sprouts” that introduce spring to our home areas. Here in the Mohawk Valley, it’s “sprout time.” They say anticipation is half of the enjoyment. This is the time when I have my anticipation activated. While performing this spring’s planting, I put that phone camera right down there in the midst of the wake-up. I call these shots “Through the eyes of an ant.”

A tulip (Tulipa hybrid, Zones 3–8) glows in the spring sun.

Emerging fern (Adiantum sp., Zones 4–8) fronds look totally different when seen from below!

Hostas (Hosta hybrid, Zones 3–8) pushing up through the ground look totally different than they will once the broad leaves unfurl.

Not an ant’s-eye view here, but still beautiful: a crabapple (Malus sp., Zones 4–9) in bud, just about to burst into bloom.

Rose (Rosa hybrid, hardiness varies by cultivar) and daylily (Hemerocallis, Zones 4–9) foliage pushes up toward the sun, full of the promise of beautiful flowers to come.

Tightly curled fern fronds are ready to burst into growth.

Oriental poppy (Papaver orientale, Zones 3–7) has striking foliage. Huge flowers will follow, and then the whole plant will go dormant and disappear for the summer.

Lilies (Lilium sp.) look almost like little palm trees as they first emerge and when seen from this angle.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Late spring coaxes tenderness from needled trees: This is the time to look up to find the soft tips of edible fir, spruce, and hemlock forming at the end of every branch on each of these aromatic evergreens. The tips are vividly, freshly green, and unmistakably distinct from the tough, mature needles of the previous year. They are a succulent addition to your seasonal culinary adventures.

Here’s how to use them.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

But first: Did anyone recoil when they read “hemlock”? Just in case: The edible hemlock you may nibble for dinner in springtime is the common name of trees known botanically as Tsuga species, whereas the poisonous hemlock that conjures a skull-and-crossbones is a herbaceous plant, Conium maculatum. Physically, there is little chance of confusing the two.

Apart from being conifers, what fir, spruce, and hemlock also have in common is that their new growth in late spring is delicious. Their tender tips are sapid in a way unique to each tree, but they all have an element of citrus zest in their fragrance and flavor spectrum.

The softest new needles can be chewed up with pleasure, while the more developed tips lend themselves better to infusing and fermenting.

While edible conifer tips can be used interchangeably, here’s how to tell the difference between spruce, fir, and hemlock:

Spruce (Picea genus) and fir (Abies and Pseudotsuga) are the trees most easily confused with one another, because their short needles are attached individually to their branches (unlike pine needles, which grow in groups called packets).

Spruce needles are attached to tiny, woody projections. When the needles fall, spruce branches feel rough. Spruce needles are square in cross-section, and can be rolled between your fingers (I always murmur, “Spruce roll” to myself as I feel them).  They are also very sharply pointed; grabbing a handful of mature spruce needles will hurt. Finally, looking at the tree as a whole, spruce cones point downwards.

• Spruce rough
• Spruce roll
• Spruce cones down

Fir needles, on the other hand, are flat, and cannot be rolled – they also feel softer.  Fir branches don’t have projections to hold needles and their bark feels smoother. Fir cones point upwards.

• Fir smooth
• Fir flat
• Fir cones up

Hemlock (Tsuga) needles are arranged on a single plane, not spirally, like spruce and fir. So hemlock branches have a feathery and flatter appearance. Their fragrant needles are flat (they cannot roll), and their small cones are pendant.

In this brief article, you will learn the best time to divide asters, how to go about it, and why doing so is beneficial.

Benefits of Division

Although asters happily self-propagate, filling a garden and beyond, they are healthier, prettier, and better behaved with periodic dividing.

It also allows you to easily propagate your own plants and increase their numbers in your garden, or share with friends.

If you save the seeds of native species, they will produce plants true to the parent, however cultivated varieties will not.

Dividing your asters periodically encourages more vigorous growth and prolific blooming. And reducing the density of clumps will increase airflow which can inhibit fungal growth, such as powdery mildew.

The best time to divide them is in early spring, when the new shoots start to sprout. This will give the new divisions time to establish over the summer.

Once buds appear, it’s too late, and you’ll have to wait until next year.

A healthy clump has uniform growth throughout. But one that’s in need of dividing will have patchy growth and possibly a center of bare earth with no evidence of new shoots.

Asters grow from the inside of the clump, outward, so as a plant ages, the middle dies and new growth sprouts up around the perimeter.

You can divide your plant in one of two ways, either by cutting the plant through the roots in situ and digging up only a section, or by digging up the entire plant, and separating it.

Then you can transplant the new divisions either into pots, or in a suitable location in the garden.

Time for the Task

Dividing old plants in spring gives new plants time to acclimate before summer temperatures heat up. It also gives them ample time to set buds for a fall bloom.

If we split clumps in summer, we wouldn’t have flowers until the following year. And if we did so in fall, they would likely succumb to frost before becoming established.

Divide and Conquer

If you’ve been hesitant to plant perennial asters because you’ve heard they can be hard to manage, worry no more!

Once you’ve gained the upper hand and your flowers are compact and lush, instead of sprawling and scraggly, you’re sure to love the way they add interest to the outdoor landscape.

As you get to know your asters, you’ll find that some seem to need dividing every year or two, while others may go for three or more without seeming crowded or showing dead patches.

Here’s what’s to come in this article:

Let’s get to growing, shall we?

Getting Started

First, you need to find an adequate pot. You will need a large pot with sufficient drainage holes.

You may want to consider starting the plant in a smaller pot, and moving up to a larger size as it grows so that the ratio of plant to potting mix isn’t too broad.

If there’s significantly more potting material than there are roots, the soil may remain overly moist after watering, increasing the chance of root rot.

To start out, look for a pot that is at least 8 inches wide and 10-12 inches deep. A 5-gallon pot is ideal.

As the tree matures, move it up to a container that is 18-24 inches deep.

Larger pots will prevent top-heavy trees from tipping over, while also allowing plants to grow larger roots and be more productive. Keep in mind, however, that the larger the pot is, the heavier the plant will be to move.

This could pose a problem when it comes time to move it outside with the return of warm weather, or from room to room.

Find a pot you like. Terra cotta, unglazed ceramic, plastic, fiberglass, wood, or resin containers are all fine choices. Just don’t use the black plastic pot that your plant comes in from the nursery, as this material will absorb and retain heat from the sun, and can cook the roots.

Whatever pot you choose, give preference to a lighter color, and be sure to place a deep saucer underneath to prevent moisture from seeping onto your floor. A plant stand or cart with wheels can also make a nice addition, for ease of movement.

Citrus plants also need well-draining soil.

Fill the pot with a citrus soil blend, or use regular potting soil mixed with perlite, small gravel, pumice, or expanded shale, which will help to ensure adequate drainage. Use two-thirds potting soil to one-third inorganic material.

Or you can make your own using equal parts peat, sand, perlite, and bark.

Don’t plant in soil devoid of inorganic material or use a commercial mix that is designed specifically to retain moisture, or it will end up getting waterlogged.

Planting Indoor Citrus

For indoor growing, you want to choose a dwarf variety, as standard citrus trees will be much too large to contain in most indoor spaces, unless you have a high-ceilinged atrium available.

These dwarfs will be sold grafted onto roots which limit their growth size, and increase the speed of fruiting.

When transplanting into your chosen container, look for the graft union. This will look like a scar or bump where the fruiting stock has been grafted onto the rootstock. You’ll usually find it about 4-8 inches above the root ball.

Plant the root ball into the soil, making sure that the graft is at least 2 inches above the soil line.

If any young green shoots are present below this graft area, prune them off, as they will use up valuable nutrients to grow but will not produce fruit.

Growth and Care

Citrus trees are tropical plants that require lots of light, warmth, and adequate moisture in order to thrive and produce fruit.

Though it varies by variety, citrus trees tend to bloom in spring, with fruit developing over the summer, and ripening slowly into the fall and through the winter.

Growth does slow a bit during the winter, though trees will not go completely dormant when grown indoors. Therefore, they will need sufficient light and water year round.

Although they are self-fertile, when grown outdoors, citrus trees will be pollinated by insects or wind. It’s a good idea to hand pollinate your plants.

To do this, just take a Q-tip or small paint brush and move from flower to flower, brushing the center of each one.

Light

Look for a place in your house where the plant will get as much bright light as possible, such as a south or southwest facing window.

If your plants do not get at least 6 hours of direct light a day, which they likely won’t in more northern climates, you will need to provide a supplemental light source.

Though they can still survive in lower light conditions, they will be unlikely to flower or produce fruit.

Choose a tall LED grow light, which will give off a little warmth and replicate sunshine. Make sure not to place the light too close to the plant or it may burn the foliage.

Position your grow light about 18 inches above the canopy for best results.

During the winter, keep the lights on for about eight hours a day. You don’t want to overdo it, or plants may become stressed and their ability to set fruit will be compromised. The idea is to mimic the amount of natural light plants normally receive during the season.

Temperature

Citrus is best grown in air temperatures between 55 and 80°F. Keep in mind that ideal temperatures vary between species.

Some cold-hardy varieties can tolerate temperatures approaching freezing for very short periods.

In order to flower, citrus requires 5 to 10 degrees of difference between day and nighttime temperatures, so turn your thermostat down a few degrees before bed.

When the weather warms up, you can move plants outdoors during the growing season to give them access to natural light.

Bring them outside once the air temperatures are consistently above 50°F, transitioning them to their new conditions over a period of a couple of weeks.

Gradually move them from a partly shaded spot to one with full sun, eventually setting them in the sunniest spot you can find. Provide protection from wind, and keep the pots in their saucers to maintain good drainage.

Never place them in areas with standing water.

Find a warmer microclimate in your yard, such as near a building where there might be some heat reflected from a walkway, driveway, or porch.

It is especially important to avoid any abrupt changes in light exposure or temperature. If you transition them too quickly, leaves could become sunburned and flowers and fruit may drop.

Move trees back indoors before nighttime temperatures drop into the 40s.

Water

Another key to successfully growing citrus in pots is appropriate watering. It is important that the soil should remain moist, without ever becoming waterlogged.

The exact amount of water required depends on a number of variables, including the size of the container, type of potting mix, air temperature, and humidity.

The most important thing is to water regularly to keep the soil moist, but never to let it become overly saturated.

It is better to do infrequent deep waterings rather than frequent shallow waterings. Let the soil dry to a couple of inches deep, and then water thoroughly until water seeps out of the drainage holes in the bottom of your pot.

During the spring and summer when growth picks up, trees may need daily watering. In the winter when plant growth slows, water only enough to maintain soil moisture.

Look for yellowing or curled leaves, which could be a sign of over watering.

Start by taking note of the general shape of the tree, looking for areas that are off balance or branches that are damaged or broken.

Use clean, sharp pruners to make cuts, always with the blade pointing towards the tree to reduce potential damage.

You can regularly trim growing tips to maintain your preferred shape and size. For a neat and compact shape, look for new shoots and shorten them back to about half of their length, cutting just above a leaf.

You can also remove dead wood and thin out inside branches to let light penetrate to the center, and promote good air circulation.

Pests

Contrary to what you might expect, pests can become especially troublesome with indoor growing. Since there are not many natural predators indoors to keep pests in check, populations can grow rapidly and cause significant damage.

Here are a few of the common ones that you may encounter:

Aphids

Trees can be susceptible to black citrus, cotton, and spirea aphids.

These pesky little insects can range in color from green to yellow or black. They feed on the buds and undersides of leaves, causing foliage to curl. Aphids also produce a sticky secretion called honeydew, which can cause a buildup of sooty mold on foliage.

Read more about aphids here.

Mealybugs

These flat, oval-shaped insects are pink with a white wax coat. They lay their eggs on the fruit, leaves, and twigs of citrus trees. As a result, they make the tree less vigorous. And they also produce honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold.

Get more tips on combating mealybugs here.

Whiteflies

The larvae of these small, white, winged insects feed on the undersides of leaves, causing foliage to turn yellow and drop. Like aphids and mealybugs, whitefly larvae also excrete honeydew that can cause sooty mold.

Read more about whitefly control in our guide.

Mites

These tiny pests are a common problem for indoor plants. They cause yellowing and dropping of foliage, as well as discoloration and shriveling of fruits.

If you are able to move plants into the bathtub or onto the porch, a strong spray of water can often be enough to remove pests, including any honeydew and accompanying mold. Make sure to spray the undersides of leaves.

You can also make a homemade insecticidal soap by filling a spray bottle with water, a couple of teaspoons of mild biodegradable soap, and a teaspoon or two of vegetable oil. Spray the foliage every few days, as long as the infestation persists.

A spray of cayenne or jalapeno pepper and garlic mixed with water can also deter pests. A word of warning, however: this may make your house smell a bit strong for a while! Be sure to wear gloves when working with hot peppers and protect your eyes when you apply the spray.

To prevent insects from getting out of control, keep citrus away from other houseplants, vents, doors, and window screens, and always give them a thorough rinse before moving plants indoors for the winter.

Diseases

When growing citrus in containers indoors, the trees aren’t as prone to disease as they are outdoors, but there are a couple of things to be aware of:

Sooty Mold

Sooty mold is a fungus that can impact indoor citrus trees.

Caused by infestations of sap-sucking insects, sooty mold is characterized by a black powdery coating on leaves and twigs.

The good news is, it is usually not a huge problem in terms of plant health, though it is not the prettiest. In severe cases, it can block light, stunt growth, and cause yellowing of foliage.

More than anything, the presence of sooty mold is a sign of an underlying pest issue. Get rid of the insects and you will prevent new mold from being introduced. Be sure to wash off what’s already there, after dealing with an infestation.

Root Rot

Usually caused by fungi from the Phytophthora genus, root rot is often a result of overwatering or allow your tree to sit in waterlogged soil. Pot size is also a consideration – if small trees are planted in a pot that’s too big, this can lead to excess moisture remaining in the soil.

To read more about managing root rot, read our guide.

Keeping trees healthy by watering them well and providing adequate sunlight will also help to avoid stressing your plants, making them more readily resistant to problems as a result.

Harvesting Fruits

Patterns of flowering and fruiting vary depending on the cultivar, though many citrus plants tend to bloom and set their fruit during the spring. The fruits then develop through the summer, and are generally ripe and ready for harvest from sometime during the fall through the winter.

If you have space for more than one, why not grow several different types that produce fruit at various times of year?

Remember to be patient. It usually takes at least a few years for trees to bear fruit, depending on the variety and their age at the time when you plant them.

During the first few years of fruiting, harvests will tend to be small and inconsistent. At this point, trees are focusing their energy on developing strong roots and branches, creating a healthy foundation that will lead to larger harvests later on.

There are many reasons why people choose to go with a local contractor when it comes to their roofing needs, but a lot of us don’t even realize the incredible benefits that come with doing so. Going with a local contractor isn’t just a matter of convenience or keeping the money local – there are so many more reasons! In this post, we’ll look into why local roofing contractors are so beneficial, and why you should consider them for your roofing project. From ensuring top-notch quality to avoiding expensive surprises, there are plenty of reasons why using a local contractor is the smart choice. We’ll also take a look at how you can go about finding the right local contractor for the job, so you can get the best quality for your money.

Source

Hiring a local roofing contractor can offer many advantages, such as cost savings due to lower labor costs and providing quick access to materials and supplies. Additionally, local contractors will often be familiar with building permit requirements and other local regulations, ensuring you get quality workmanship that meets all safety standards.

 

Quality Workmanship Guaranteed

When it comes to choosing a local roofing contractor, quality workmanship is a key factor. Experienced and reputable pros are often the ones most likely to provide superior craftsmanship than those who aren’t as established in the industry. When deciding on a contractor, ask to see samples of their past work to ensure you get what’s promised. Additionally, you should always ensure that any potential roofer has proper certification and insurance—indicating they have the knowledge and experience necessary to commit to quality workmanship.

There is more to consider when it comes to guaranteeing quality workmanship than just the qualifications and accreditation of contractors. Properly selecting the appropriate materials for the job is essential for meeting the expectations of results from both sides. Quality roofing materials play an integral role in ensuring that a roof can last a long time without frequent repairs or replacements. The right materials also minimize energy costs associated with heating and cooling your home as well as providing a comfortable living atmosphere year-round. By taking into consideration both the skill of the craftsman and using quality materials, you can be confident in obtaining superior workmanship for your roofing needs.

Choosing quality materials for your project is critically important if you want to attain lasting performance. In the next section, we’ll discuss which factors you need to consider when selecting materials for your project and how they impact the overall outcome of your roofing system.

 

The Right Materials for the Job

The materials used for roof repair and replacement can significantly vary in quality and price. While it’s wise to search for the most reliable, high-performing roofing materials on the market, not everyone has an unlimited budget. That’s why working with local roofing contractors is invaluable; they understand the local market and can often get you access to quality materials that suit your specific needs and budget. In fact, some local contractors even offer financing plans that make it easier to manage payments over time.

It’s important to note, however, that cheaper materials are not always the better option. Cut-rate materials may look attractive at first, but will likely require more maintenance as well as more frequent replacements due to their lower-quality construction. Quality materials might appear to be more expensive in the beginning, but over time will cost much less due to their durability and low maintenance requirements. Working with a local contractor can help you determine which material is best for you depending on the type of repair or replacement needed and your unique budget restrictions.

The end result is key: while you should be conscious of cost when selecting materials, lasting satisfaction should remain paramount. Local roofing contractors have experience dealing with both costly premium choices and cost-conscious options so they can help you find a suitable choice that fits within your budget while assuring long-term protection of your home.

Now you know why choosing the right materials is critical when working with local roofers, let’s turn our attention to the importance of having expert advice on home repairs.

 

Expert Advice on Home Repairs

When it comes to making crucial home repairs, especially when it comes to roofing projects, getting expert advice from a local roofing contractor is always a good idea. Professional roofers can not only provide you with the right materials for your job but can give you the bonus of their experience. They are knowledgeable about the best options for the climate in which you live and the type of project you want to undertake.

Moreover, local contractors tend to be more engaged and involved than those from out of town – they may be aware of any laws or regulations specific to your area that come into play with certain repairs or renovations that non-local companies would not have access to. Plus, having personalized care and attention from local contractors usually ensures better response times, as well as follow-up should any issues arise down the line.

On the flip side of this argument though, many homeowners may prefer to take on more DIY projects around their house without outside help in order to save money. In this case, owners should take the necessary precautions before starting their project like researching relevant laws and regulations in their area, communicating with their homeowner’s insurance agency if needed, and consulting trusted repair websites or magazines for detailed instructions on how to make certain repairs themselves.

Overall, whether or not an owner chooses to make use of expert advice when carrying out home repairs depends solely on his or her needs and budget. Whichever option one decides upon, however, it is always important to weigh all factors carefully beforehand in order to make sure that the benefit outweighs any drawbacks associated with the work being performed.

 

Putting Your Trust in Local Professionals

When choosing a roofing contractor, it can be tempting to search for the most cost-efficient option possible. After all, you want to keep costs down while still getting quality work. However, cutting back on costs too much can result in amateur or subpar roofing jobs that will prove costly with time.

Putting your trust in local professionals is the best way to ensure that your roofing job is completed properly and meets all your standards. Local roofers are more likely to have more experience working in your area and understand exactly what kind of climate conditions your home is subject to. These local contractors also have established relationships with other regional businesses such as supplying stores, which can make it easier for them to purchase quality materials needed for the job.

Not only are local professionals more likely to have experience, but they also have a personal investment in the community. They rely on word of mouth from previous clients and employees to build their careers since their business depends on having satisfied locals. This creates an incentive for them to do top-notch work so that clients are happy and willing to recommend them later on as well as create repeat business with other clients in the region.

All these factors together outweigh potentially lower prices found when hiring non-local workers who don’t understand the exact conditions of your home or are uninterested in making sure that you’re completely satisfied with the service they provide. Choosing carefully and selecting a trusted local contractor can help you achieve a professionalized roofing job that will look great and last for years, while still keeping within your budget.

• According to a 2020 survey, contractors estimate that up to 93% of roof repairs are done in-house.
• Using local roofers can save you money on materials and labor, as well as cut down on transportation costs.
• On average, customers report spending 28% less when they use local roofing companies compared to hiring out-of-state or national contractors.

Let A Professional Complete Your Roofing Job

When looking to hire a roofing contractor, many homeowners are rightfully concerned that they should get the most professional job possible. Professionalism is a vital consideration when hiring any contractors to work on your home as it can make all the difference in the quality of the job being done and the finished product. Certain things can be done to ensure that the chosen roofing contractor is professional and delivers quality results.

One way to guarantee that a roofing contractor is held to a high standard of professionalism is by researching the company’s reputation through reviews from homeowners who have used their services in the past. A good reputation indicates that their services are reliable and of superior quality. Don’t rely solely on online reviews, as these may be falsified. Instead, look for more reliable sources such as friends and family who have used them before.

When interviewing prospective roofers, ask about how long they have been in business and if they remain current with industry standards. These companies should also carry proper insurance along with general liability coverage because accidents do happen during any job – especially those involving heights like roofing projects. Ask if they are licensed and provide proof before signing a contract or beginning any work. In addition, it’s important to make sure they are following proper safety protocols such as providing hardhats, harnesses, and other necessary equipment when working on rooftops.

It’s important to choose a local contractor that you can trust will do quality work without taking advantage of you financially. Local companies must maintain a good reputation in their community in order for their business to succeed; this has an added benefit for customers because there’s often less incentive to cut corners or overcharge if it could hurt their reputations down the line. When choosing a company, also make sure that they can give you an accurate estimate of time and cost upfront and honor it throughout the course of the project since budget concerns affect homeowners greatly throughout large-scale repairs or installations like roof replacement or repair.

By following these basic tips, homeowners can help ensure they receive the most professional job possible from a local roofing contractor. An informed decision based on research and due diligence is key when hiring anyone to do any kind of work on your home – so take your time and get the best team for you and your roofing needs!

While some gardeners advise against starting rhubarb from seed because it takes too long, I’m here to tell you that you can absolutely do it successfully.

Good things come to those who wait, am I right?

And although rhubarb grown from seeds you’ve collected from an existing plant may not look exactly like Mama Rhu, it will taste so similar you’ll hardly notice the difference.

And guess what? Growing this cool-weather crop from seed as an annual is the ideal way to propagate it for those of you who live in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 and up.

That’s right. This stellar plant can be grown as a perennial in Zones 2b-7, and in Zones 8 and up, it makes a tasty annual. See our guide to growing rhubarb in the garden to learn more.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

A Bit of Background

Along with knobby-kneed plants like sorrel and buckwheat, rhubarb is a member of the Polygonaceae family.

In Latin, “Polygonum” means “many knees,” a reference to the thick-noded leaf and flower stems.

Used primarily as a medicine before the 18th century, the plant was rare and considered valuable in China, the Middle East, and Europe.

Sometime in the 1700s, it became more popular as an edible vegetable in the UK, arriving in the United States in seed form by the 1730s.

Early American botanist John Bartram grew the plant from the seed. According to Joel Fry, curator at the historical site Bartram’s Garden in Philadelphia, he even wrote, “[Rhubarb] make excellent tarts before most other Fruits fitt for that purpose are ripe.”

This goes to show that some things never change. (Thank goodness!)

Coincidentally, the price of sugar in the US dropped in the 18th century, allowing common folk to add buckets of it to their rhubarb harvest for a sweet, tart pie filling.

The plant has enjoyed popularity ever since – especially in northern states, where it thrives in the cool climates.

Far from being featured only in pie, the stalks often make their way into cakes, chutneys, cocktails, crisps, crumbles, ice creams, jams, salsas, souffles, and even wine.

Find inspiration for what to do with your harvest on our sister site, Foodal.

One important thing to remember?

The leaves are toxic if consumed in large amounts, and can cause gastrointestinal distress in smaller portions.

So just avoid them altogether, and keep them away from kids and pets, and you’ll be good.

Sourcing Seeds

Now that you’ve undoubtedly been convinced that you should grow your own rhubarb, it’s time to find out where you can get some seeds.

If a gardening friend of yours has huge old plants that she allows to flower once in a while, this would be a fun place to source your seeds.

The same goes for if you already have a plant of your own that you propagated from a division or crown.

Maybe it’s time to try something new. Test your mettle at seed-growing, like old John Bartram did in the 1730s.

Once you make the decision to let one of your plants bolt – which won’t affect the flavor or longevity of the plant, but may reduce the number of stalks available to harvest – keep an eye out for a seed head.

Growing Rhubarb as a Perennial

One of the best things about rhubarb is that it is a tenacious and long-lived plant, when grown outdoors in cooler zones.

While some sources will tell you that the plant produces harvestable stalks for at least five to 10 years, the truth is that it can keep giving you tart-sweet pie filling for much longer than that.

Sometimes, it can even outlive us, thriving for over 100 years.

About an hour or two before you plan to sow, soak the seeds in warm water. This will help the papery skins open, resulting in quicker germination.

Then fill each cell or peat pot with soil and make a divot the size of your finger down to the first knuckle, or about one inch deep.

Drop one seed in each cell, or two if you’re worried about germination rates.

For me personally, ten of the twelve seeds germinated… and then I didn’t know what to do with ten thriving seedlings! I ended up transplanting six and keeping four in the trays for a week or so (which ended up being a good idea – keep reading to find out why!).

Here’s what happened with my seeds. After sowing, I closed all the vents in the greenhouse enclosure to ensure the seeds would benefit from the maximum humidity provided. Then, I set them under a grow light.

Do the same with yours, or put them in a window that receives at least six hours of sunlight per day.

Seven days later, a couple of green shoots began to unfurl.

Germination can take anywhere from seven days to two weeks with rhubarb, so don’t fret if yours don’t come up as quickly.

By the eighth day, all but two of the seeds had germinated. Some even had two sprouts growing from one seed case!

Another week went by and the seedlings were starting to need more room, so I decided to transplant most of them to eight-inch-wide, seven-inch-deep containers.

Rhubarb sends roots down quickly and you don’t want your plants to get root bound, so plan to transplant yours one to two weeks after germination.

Seedlings will be about an inch tall and may still only have the two cotyledons, or “starter leaves,” growing from the stems at this point. Or they may have one set of true leaves, but mine did not when I moved them.

They should probably only stay in the seed trays for four weeks maximum. But that might be pushing it.

My seed starting trays were just 1.5 inches deep. If you start your seeds in bigger trays, you can probably keep the seedlings in there longer.

For example, in 3-inch-deep trays, seedlings could likely thrive for three weeks before they need to be transplanted.

If you’re going to keep growing your seedlings in a container, you can transplant them into an eight or ten-inch wide pot, that’s at least seven inches deep, to continue growing for three to five more months – and then move them to a 20-inch wide and deep container at the beginning of summer.

Or you can transplant seedlings directly to a larger pot.

You can also transplant them outside into the garden after two months of indoor growth at the earliest, or ideally, after three to five months of growth, and after the last frost.

To prep your containers, fill them with organic potting mix and a couple tablespoons of 10-10-10 (NPK) fertilizer if you’re planting in an eight-inch wide, seven-inch deep pot, or up to 1/4 cup for a 20-inch wide and deep container.

Since the seed tray cells I planted in are 1.5 inches deep, I dug a hole that was 1.5 inches deep in each pot.

Popping the seedlings out of the trays was a little tricky as the root balls were quite soft and mushy. But I got the hang of it after a few tries, and none of the plants perished during this process.

Ideally, the leaves would send all the energy they receive from the light back down into forming strong roots. Instead, mine became extremely leggy.

After doing some research, I realized that for optimal growth, lights should be situated two to five inches from seedlings. Oops!

I added soil to my plants, covering part of the stem on each so they wouldn’t grow weak from their dizzying heights, and moved the grow light closer.

This undeniably helped the seedlings grow more leaves instead of simply shooting straight up.

So now, onto why I’m glad I saved a few seedlings in the tray for four weeks rather than transplanting them:

I have a three-year-old son, and he likes to come say hello to all the plants in my home office. He’ll even hold his hands back and say, “Don’t touch!” as I’ve told him not to several times (after he touched and immediately killed one of my basil seedlings, for example). Sometimes, that is.

One evening, I walked into my office to see a suspiciously smushed and partially decapitated seedling.

It appeared that my son had been unable to resist exploring the plant with his itty-bitty fingers, and the sight made me laugh.

Luckily, I had a few plants still growing away in their little seed starting cells, so I removed the ruined seedling from its pot and replaced it.

If you have tons of seedlings that have sprouted and not enough space to transplant them and let them grow to maturity, let a few of the stronger ones keep growing in the seed trays until you know for sure that no sudden ailments or injuries will compromise your newly potted plants.

Be sure to transplant those by four weeks of growth at the latest – after five weeks, the ones that remained in my seed starting tray flopped over and died, even with watering.

The one seedling I ended up transplanting later on from seed tray to pot is still a lot smaller than the thriving seedlings I transplanted two weeks after germination. But it seems to be doing okay overall.

As the rhubarb grows, you’ll notice more leaves developing from the stems. And at that point, your plant is on its way!

Transplanting Outdoors

You can transplant seedlings outdoors two months since germination, or preferably three, after the risk of frost has passed.

You are looking for outdoor daytime temperatures of at least 45°F and no more than 75°F, and nighttime lows above 32°F.

The bigger and stronger your seedlings are, the more likely they are to survive and thrive post-transplant. You can even continue to grow your baby plants indoors in 7 or 8-inch pots for up to a year before transplanting them outside, if this is what it takes in your area to help them to thrive.

Plants should have around four small stalks each and true leaves when they are ready to transplant, and they will be about three to seven inches tall with a spread of about six to 12 inches.

When it’s time to transplant your seedlings into the garden, make sure your selected planting area receives at least six hours of sunlight per day – do not choose an area that is regularly tromped through by kids, pets, or wildlife.

In your garden or raised bed, the soil should be loose and well-draining, with a pH of 5.5-7.5.

A half-and-half mixture of compost or rotted manure with topsoil works well, or try pre-packaged planting soil sprinkled with 1/4 cup of granular fertilizer per every two square feet.

The next step is to harden off your seedlings.

They’ll be used to cozy indoor temperatures at this point. To avoid shock, start setting the pots outdoors for one to two hours a day. Increase the time they spend out there during the week until they are spending most of the day outdoors.

Now it’s time to transplant!

First, water the container to keep the soil from falling apart. While the water soaks in, dig a hole the length and depth of your plant pot in your desired planting location.

With a hand trowel or garden knife, loosen the soil from the edge of the container (or take it out of the seed starting tray, if you were able to leave it in that long).

Tip the container so that the plant slides out, and fit it neatly into its new home. Tuck the dirt back in around the plant, being careful to cover the entire root system, and voila! You’re done.

All you need to do is water the plant thoroughly and then watch your rhubarb grow.

You’ll be able to harvest your rhubarb in about two years from the time the seeds first germinated, when stalks are 12-18 inches long.

Can You Direct Sow?

Some of you might be wondering if you can direct sow rhubarb seeds in your garden.

Yes, you can!

Wait until the soil temperature has warmed to at least 50°F – likely in late spring or early summer, depending on your growing zone.

Prep the soil as described above, compost, well rotted manure, or fertilizer mixed into the soil.

In rows three inches apart, plant pre-soaked seeds two inches apart and about half an inch deep.

Keep them moist but not waterlogged, and note that you may not have to water as often as you would if you started the seeds indoors, since containers tend to dry out faster than the ground.

Now, you… wait. If the conditions are not quite right, the seeds may take longer to germinate than under the more controlled conditions indoors.

Growing Rhubarb as an Annual

To grow pie plant from seed as an annual in Zones 8 and above, purchase your packet of seeds and get ready to direct sow outdoors in late August to early October when the soil is still warm, but the heat of the summer has subsided.

Alternatively you can sow them indoors, by the end of July at the latest according to the directions outlined above. If your windowsills get really hot, use a grow light instead, in a room with temperatures consistently below 75°F that doesn’t have extra-hot sun spilling through the windows.

Planting rhubarb seeds in starter trays indoors is recommended during the summer, because the soil will be too hot outdoors at this time of year in Zones 8 and above.

As soon as the weather cools down a bit and temps are no longer reaching above 85°F during the day – preferably closer to 75°F – and your seedlings are three to six inches tall and with three to four true leaves each, it’s time to transplant them outdoors.

If you start your seeds in late July, you can plan to transplant your seedlings in September or October.

If the weather is still warm and there’s lots of sun, one idea that may be of use to you is to create makeshift filtered shade with juniper or cottonwood branches. Simply stick the branch near the little plants and make sure they provide shade for part of each day.

Or you can use a shade cloth or floating row covers.

You can remove the shade protection once the weather cools down in the winter.

Let your plants grow all winter and into the spring. By late spring – I’m talking April and May – they’ll have several tender stalks.

Normally, you wouldn’t harvest these if you were growing perennials. But since the plants will wither and die as soon as the summer heat hits in warmer zones, go ahead and harvest every juicy petiole.

If you want to make this a regular thing, start the process again, come July.

Fuchsia is one of those plants that has little value when it’s not in bloom. Sorry, little plants! But you just aren’t that pretty when you aren’t flowering.

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Like roses, the leaves and stems aren’t all that attractive on their own. Hostas can hold their own without blossoms, but most people aren’t growing fuchsia for the foliage.

But also like roses, when fuchsias are in bloom, they’re incomparable.

Fuchsia flowers are so beautiful that people will fight their local surroundings to grow them, even if they live in entirely the wrong climate. And I totally get it.

I babied and nurtured these specimens for years in the driest, hottest climate imaginable. Pretty much the opposite of what fuchsias prefer. But each time I walked by the bright, frilly blossoms, it was worth all the care and attention.

But every now and then, a plant won’t bloom. It’s frustrating and such a waste of potential. On the bright side, it’s fairly easy to figure out what the problem is and how to fix it.

Here are seven common causes of a lack of flowering, and what you can do to resolve them:

Any time a plant is stressed, it will go into emergency mode.

Some will “bolt” and send out seeds to try and hurry to complete their lifecycle. Others, like fuchsia, will abandon ship and wait for better conditions to return.

But “stress” can be a nebulous term. It can mean that your fuchsia was recently transplanted and its roots were damaged. But it can also mean pests or diseases are impacting the plant, weakening it.

Let’s take a look.

1. Diseases

Fuchsias are susceptible to several different diseases, usually fungal in nature. Of the most common diseases, one of these can cause flowers to not form.

Botrytis blight, also known as gray mold, is caused by Botrytis cinerea.

Most often, it causes existing flowers to turn brown and rot, but it can also cause the young, developing buds to turn brown and die.

Good sanitation and being careful not to crowd plants can help prevent this disease, as can being certain to water at the soil level rather than on the foliage.

A product containing the beneficial bacteria Bacillus amyloliquefaciens strain D747 can be used as an effective treatment.

Spray the foliage and stems the second you see any sign of this disease, which might present as rotting, brown stems and leaves at first.

This disease is more common in specimens that experience drought stress.

2. Failure to Deadhead

After flowers have developed, if you find that new blossoms aren’t forming, take a look at your deadheading process. You should be pinching off flowers once they start to fade.

Fuchsia lives to produce berries full of seeds that can go on and produce new plants. Once they make those berries, they may stop producing flowers because their job is done.

Some cultivars will continue to bloom even if you aren’t dedicated to deadheading.

It will usually say so on the nursery tag, but I’ve had great luck with ‘Beacon,’ ‘Estelle Marie,’ and cultivars from the Diva series.

Otherwise, aim to remove the flowers right before they would drop off on their own. If the base is starting to swell, it’s time to act.

Deadheading is different than pruning, which we’ll talk about in a minute. Both are essential to get right if you want lots of flowers.

3. Lack of Nutrients

If you don’t fertilize your fuchsias regularly, they won’t have the energy to develop buds and flowers. Fuchsias, especially those grown in pots, need quite a bit of food.

If the plant isn’t even trying to develop buds, this would be the first thing I’d check.

Look for a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus (P in the NPK ratio of plant macronutrients). Usually, anything labeled as a flower-specific food will work.

I love Down to Earth’s Rose and Flower Mix, which is formulated just for flowering plants. It comes in a compostable container in one-, five-, or 15-pound quantities.

Down to Earth Rose and Flower Mix

You can find this option at Arbico Organics.

Bone meal is also a good choice. There are lots of bone meal products out there, but my old reliable Down to Earth makes one.

Bone Meal

Grab five pounds from Arbico Organics.

If you want something more widely available, Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster is also well-balanced for flowering plants.

Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster

It’s available in one-and-a-half-pound and five-and-a-half-pound containers at Amazon.

4. Pests

Fuchsia gall mites (Aculops fuchsiae) are a type of pest rather than a disease, but you can’t see them with the naked eye.

That’s why some gardeners assume they have some sort of viral or fungal issue on those hands when it’s actually an infestation.

What you can see when these mites are present is the foliar distortion. The ends of the growing branches will display funky clusters of distorted leaves, and flower buds won’t form. It’s a pretty distinctive problem.

Flowers will still form on the stems that have normal leaf growth, but anywhere that the leaf growth is distorted won’t develop buds.

There isn’t any really stellar method of treatment available, but the predatory mite Amblyseius andersoni can help a lot. These mites can’t resist a meal of microscopic foes.

Other than gall mites, aphids, which are sap-sucking insects, can prevent buds from opening when they’re present in large enough numbers.

Read our guide to learn how to identify and get rid of aphids.

5. Pruning at the Wrong Time

To maximize blooming, you need to both prune, and not prune. Make sense?

Fuchsias flower on new growth, so pinching them when they’re young will encourage this new growth and lots of blossoms. But pruning older growth as it develops will stop flowers from forming.

Later, when the plants start to develop berries and seeds, they stop producing flowers.

So if you leave the pruning until too late, the plant will naturally stop producing flowers. In other words, you need to find the sweet spot between pruning too much and too little: just the right amount.

The right pruning method depends on whether you have a trailing or upright type.

Trailing types should be pruned back in the early spring to about six inches above the soil. This should be done just as the new growth is developing in the spring.

Then, as the plant grows longer, feel free to pinch back the branches to a leaf bud to encourage branching.

Upright types should be pruned to remove dead, dying, or deformed branches and to create a nice shape. This should also be done early in the spring as new growth is developing.

Visit our guide to pruning fuchsia for more tips.

6. Transplanting

When you dig up and transplant fuchsia, disturbing or damaging the roots is pretty much inevitable and impossible to avoid.

That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t transplant at all. It just means you should expect some reduction in flowering and growth when you move a plant to a new spot in the garden.

When you move a plant, you can limit the stress from transplanting by digging up as much of the existing soil as you can. The more area you lift up, the less you’ll disturb the roots.

But if you’re moving one from one container to a different container, there isn’t much you can do.

Just try to move things around on a cool, cloudy day and make sure the plant has plenty of water ahead of time, but not too much.

If transplant shock is the issue, the plant might drop a few buds and not grow for a few weeks, but it will pick right back up, assuming you placed it in a location with the right conditions.

7. Wrong Light Exposure

I know that fuchsia reputedly loves shade, but these plants actually prefer brighter light in cool, wet climates.

The reason that so many of us grow them in shade is that it’s more moist and cool than the surrounding areas.

When these plants are placed in too much shade, they won’t bloom. They simply won’t develop flower buds at all.

Too much sun, on the other hand, can cause the developing buds to fall off the plant. Most often, this is because the plant has been too hot and dry.

Direct sun exposure can be fine in an area that doesn’t become hotter than 60°F, but everywhere else, too much sun will stress the plant.

If you don’t see any buds developing and you don’t see strange leaf growth (see the section on pests above), watch how much light your plant is receiving. If it’s in full shade for the majority of the day, it’s probably too shady.

On the other hand, if the plant is in direct sun, but is developing buds or flowers that drop off the plant, it’s probably too much sun that’s the problem.

Move the plant into dappled light in partial shade, and it should be fine. Be sure to watch the temperature and the moisture level in the soil.

Keep ‘Em Coming

It’s easy to fall in love with fuchsia plants when you see them in full bloom at the store. But once you bring them home, it’s infuriating if they don’t flower as you expected.

If you need a refresher on how to grow these fabulous flowers, have a read of our guide.

What kind of fuchsia is your favorite? Do you have a double-flowered trailing type? An upright with classic single blossoms? How did you help it return to its floriferous form? Let us know in the comments.

I hope this guide set you on the right path. If so, we have more fabulous fuchsia guidance to share. Check out these articles next:

Sagittarius: Snake plant

Sansevieria trifasciata (Dracaena trifasciata)

Sagittarius, a fire sign represented by the Archer, governs those born between November 22 and December 20. A highly dynamic sign, Sagittarius is characterized as fearless, aspirational, and infinitely curious. Adventurous by nature, Sagittarius has the raw strength and optimism to overcome any challenge. The sharp forms and unparalleled durability of the snake plant match the powerful energy of Sagittarius.

Sansevieria trifasciata (renamed Dracaena trifasciata in 2017) features tall, stiff, reptilian leaves that are beautifully variegated in shades of green, black, yellow, and cream, depending on the cultivar. Native to tropical West Africa, the snake plant is exceptionally tough, which has led to its widespread use as an ornamental plant around the world. Its succulent leaves grow from fleshy tubers called rhizomes, which enable the plant to withstand long periods without water. While it prefers bright indirect light, the snake plant is also notable for its tolerance of extreme low light conditions–which is why it can be commonly spotted in large spaces with little natural light, such as offices and shopping malls.

Besides having spiritual significance in the Yoruba religion of West Africa, the tough, durable plant fibers of Sansevieria leaves have been gathered for centuries by humans for use as bowstrings. Indeed, one of the plant’s common names in its native range is “viper’s bowstring hemp” for this very reason. As Sagittarius is represented by the Archer, the snake plant’s connection to archery makes it the perfect plant for its astrological companion.

Introduced to Arizona in the 1940s, it is suited to cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 11.

In its native habitat and similar frost-free zones, it blooms from spring to winter. In other regions, it is a sensation from summer to frost.

Please note that D. sinuata naturalizes readily and has done so in Arizona, California, and Oregon.

Unfortunately, it can become invasive and is classified as an emerging environmental weed in California and Australia, and invasive in the Dominican Republic.

Also noteworthy, there is another daisy-like species, perennial Osteospermum, that’s sometimes called cape marigold.

Once classified under the Dimorphotheca umbrella, it is now described as part of a separate genus and is not the topic of this guide.

Read on for all you need to know to grow and care for annual cape marigold, D. sinuata, in your outdoor living space – including a tip for curbing its aggressive tendencies.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Let’s start with a bit of background.

Cultivation and History

Like the rainbow nation it comes from – so dubbed by Archbishop Desmond Tutu to describe South Africa’s diverse people – cape marigold comes in a varied color palette that includes apricot, orange, salmon, white, and yellow, sometimes with striking purple accents.

Mature dimensions are four to 12 inches tall and wide. Plants have an upright growth habit and upturned flowers.

Reddish stems bear a single floret of petal-like rays surrounding a central disc measuring approximately three inches across. The flowers open on sunny days and close at night.

Dimorpotheca refers to the two types of fruits or seeds produced by the ray and disc flowers. Plants self-sow to increase their landscape footprint yearly.

The leaves have glandular hairs, a narrow lance-like shape, and a light green color. Sinuata refers to the alternating rounded and notched leaf margins, aka serrating.

Swiss botanist Augustin Pyramus de Candolle assigned cape marigold its botanical classification, D. sinuata, in 1838.

Cape marigold made its way to Arizona in the 1940s. Since the 1970s, it has naturalized, as mentioned, in Arizona, California, and Oregon, where it escaped cultivation via self-sown seeds.

Propagation

Cape marigold may be grown from seed. You can buy them or collect them from existing plants at the end of the growing season, just before the wind carries them off to places where they’ll germinate the following year.

In a frost-free climate, you can sow seeds directly into the garden or containers in late fall to early winter.

Sprinkle two or three of the tiny seeds onto the moist medium.

Press them gently into the medium, no more than 1/16 of an inch deep.

Place the pots in bright indirect sunlight.

Keep the medium moist but not soggy.

Thin them to one seedling per pot when they are about two inches tall.

Continue to maintain even moisture until the seedlings are four inches tall. Once they achieve this height, you can let the pots dry out completely between waterings.

After the last spring frost date, acclimate the seedlings to the outdoors. Set the pots in a sheltered, sunny spot for a few hours each day for a week. At that point, they can be transplanted outside.

How to Grow

Once the danger of frost passes, it’s time to head to the garden.

Choose a location with full sun.

The ideal soil is average to poor, sandy, and well-draining. A pH of 6.5 to 8.4 is comparable with that of cape marigold’s native lands.

Avoid rich soil and fertilizer. They will promote legginess and sprawling rather than upright stems and upturned blossoms.

Space plants eight to 12 inches apart to accommodate mature dimensions. Avoid overcrowding, to facilitate airflow and reduce the risk of mildew formation.

Work the soil to a depth of about eight inches until it is crumbly. Remove any rocks, sticks, and other debris.

Settle the biodegradable pots into the soil so the rims are even with the soil surface.

Tamp soil around the pots to secure them and water them in well, taking care to water the soil, not the leaves.

Water weekly in the absence of rain. Take care to avoid overwatering.

Alternatively, transplant the pots into one or more containers with a depth of about eight to 10 inches.

Fill the containers two-thirds to three-quarters full with potting medium.

Set the peat pot rims so the soil surface in the pots is even with the soil surface in the new containers. Backfill around and under the pots as needed to secure them.

Water the soil, not the leaves, until it runs through the drainage holes in the bottom of the containers.

Containers dry out faster than garden soil. Use a moisture meter as a guide and let the soil dry completely between waterings.

Once established, these plants exhibit above-average drought tolerance. However, they prefer temperatures below 80°F and will show signs of wilting and distress at 90°F.

If high temperatures are predicted, water early in the morning to help your plants manage the heat.

Growing Tips

• Start indoors and transplant to the garden or containers post-frost.
• Surface sow, barely covering the seeds.
• Maintain even moisture during germination and establishment.
• Grow in full sun, and poor to average, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to alkaline pH.
• Avoid rich soil and fertilizer to prevent legginess, and promote upright growth and upturned blossoms.
• Monitor plants for moisture stress when temperatures are 90°F or above.

Maintenance

Keep the garden weeded to avoid creating competition for water and deter pests.

If it doesn’t rain during the week, provide supplemental water as needed to avoid wilting.

Annuals live for one season. In zones that experience frost, they die with the first freeze. In warmer regions, they wither by winter.

Either way, clear away all debris when they are finished to prevent pests and diseases from wintering over in it.

Here’s a tip to curb the spreading caused by self-sowing:

Deadhead the spent blooms throughout the growing season.

Deadheading is the removal of a spent flower stem before the flower loses all of its color. It promotes more flowering and prevents seed formation and dispersal.

The task is easiest with small quantities of plants, like those in containers.

To deadhead, use clean pruners to snip off the stem of a spent flower near a leaf node or at the base of the plant without damaging neighboring foliage.

In the warmest zones, mass plant where it can naturalize, creating a low-maintenance, water-wise xeriscape.

Pop it into rock gardens and let it meander along a sidewalk or roadway as a non-fussy ground cover that prevents the erosion of hard-scrabble soil in places where other plants fail to thrive.

Fill some patio containers for rich color, season-long blooms, easy deadheading, and small-scale enjoyment.

Dahlia hybrids

Dahlias aren’t for the shrinking violets of the world. They’re brash, bold, and loud.

And of the many dahlia types, dinnerplates are perhaps the most attention-grabbing. You certainly wouldn’t want to plant them if your vibe is more “look over there” than “look at me.”

If you don’t mind turning heads, though, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better option.

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But dinnerplate dahlias need special care to keep them looking their finest. These aren’t plants you can just toss in the ground and forget about if you want them to look their best.

This guide will help you to make that happen. With this goal in mind, here’s what we’re going to discuss:

If you live in Zones 8 to 10, you can grow these as you would your typical perennial. If you live in a cooler USDA Hardiness Zones, you’ll need to dig up and protect the tubers during the winter.

If you’re ready to add this “wow” factor to your garden, you’re probably rarin’ to go. Without further ado, let’s dig in!

Cultivation and History

Dahlias were originally cultivated as a food crop in Mexico. These plants are related to sunflowers and Jerusalem artichokes, and the tubers can be incredibly tasty.

When explorers brought dahlias back to Europe they intended to grow them as a food crop there, but they never caught on. Or, at least they never caught on as an edible.

As ornamentals, dahlias were a bona fide winner.

Those flower-breeding superstars, the Belgians, started creating the first dinnerplate dahlias in the early 1800s. By the 1920s, dahlias were all the rage in the US and Europe, and many new dinnerplates were bred.

Of those, only a few are still around. ‘Thomas Edison,’ ‘Kelvin Floodlight,’ and ‘Snow Country’ are some of the oldest cultivars still on the market.

But don’t feel deprived – the newer dinnerplates are big, bold, and tougher than ever before.

By the way, “dinnerplate” just means that the flowers are large. It doesn’t denote a particular species or group of cultivars.

Anything that can grow at least eight inches across is considered a dinnerplate type and they’re all hybrids, usually with the hortensis species somewhere in their lineage.

The first blossom of the season is usually the largest, and any successive flowers on a given plant will typically be smaller. 

The plants themselves typically grow over four feet tall and almost all of them require staking, since those giant heads are heavy – usually heavier than the stems can support.

Propagation

Dinnerplates can be propagated in all the same ways that other dahlias can be.

Buying a live plant or tubers is the easiest way to go, but propagating cuttings or taking divisions is a good way to save a buck or reproduce a specimen that you particularly like.

From Seed

You can purchase dahlia seeds at many retailers, but you won’t find dinnerplate seeds.

You can collect them from existing plants but these seeds won’t grow true, meaning the resulting seedlings won’t necessarily look like the parent plant.

To collect the seeds, wait until the pods form on the stem after the flower fades. That means no cutting the flowers for arrangements.

Once a pod plumps with a dark, dry center at the pointed end, it’s about ready. As the outer parts of the pod start to turn dark and dry, harvest it and place it in a cool, dry spot.

When it’s completely dry, rub the pod between your hands to release the seeds. They’ll be plump and dark brown or black. Any smaller, tan-colored seeds weren’t pollinated and they aren’t going to be viable.

To sow the seeds, wait until about eight weeks before the last predicted frost date in your area. Fill four-inch pots with well-draining potting soil and sow them one or two to a pot, an eighth of an inch deep.

Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and move the plants under a grow light for at least eight hours per day once the seedlings start to emerge from the soil. This usually takes a week or two.

When the seedlings are about six inches tall with several sets of leaves, you can plant them outside.

From Cuttings

Dahlias can be grown from stem or tuber cuttings.

To learn about the process, read our guide to propagating dahlia cuttings, which will walk you through taking your cutting, planting it in soil, and nurturing it to grow a new plant.

From Divisions

Dinnerplate dahlias can be pricey. By dividing existing dahlias, you can create more and more without paying for new plants.

Division should be done after flowering. Our guide will help you through the division process, from start to finish.

From Tubers

Wait until the last predicted frost date in your area has passed before planting tubers. Ideally, the soil temperature will be above 55°F.

At that point, loosen up your soil a foot deep and work in lots of well-rotted compost or manure. Dahlias like rich, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0.

If you have heavy clay or tend to receive tons of rain, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to plant in a raised bed.

Plant them so the top of the tubers are an inch or two below the surface of the soil, with any eyes facing up. Tubers should be spaced about 18 inches apart.

Keep the soil moist but not wet and within a month, you should see new growth emerging from the soil.

Transplanting

If you purchase live plants, transplant them when temperatures are consistently above 50°F. Generally, the rule of thumb is that if a tomato plant would be happy, a dahlia will be happy.

Prepare the soil as described above and plant so that the dahlias sit at the same height they did in their nursery pots, spaced 18 inches apart.

Water well and keep the soil moist as the plants mature.

How to Grow

To grow those big, bold blossoms, you need to give these plants full sunlight.

There’s no point in going to all the cost and trouble of obtaining dinnerplate dahlias if you aren’t going to give them the conditions they need to produce those gigantic flowers, and sunlight is the first key.

Young dahlias need more water than those that are established.

When they’re under a foot tall, keep the soil moist but not wet. Once they’re taller than a foot, water when the top inch of soil has dried out.

Once the plants are a foot tall, it’s also time to start feeding them once a month with a flower-specific food.

My favorite is Down to Earth’s Rose & Flower Mix, in part because it comes in compostable boxes, and it has always made my plants happy.

Down to Earth Rose & Flower Mix

Arbico Organics carries it in one-, five-, or 15-pound boxes. But if you have a favorite flower food, it’s also fine to go with what you know.

Once the plant is about 10 inches tall, pinch off the central growing stem right above a stem that has at least four leaves. Don’t tear the stem – use clean scissors or your fingernails.

This encourages branching and will result in more flowers.

Check out our guide to growing dahlias for more information.

Staking

For pretty much any plant that reaches heights taller than three feet, you’re going to walk to stake the largest flower stems.

Smaller stems, which typically grow later in the year, might not need any staking.

The plants start developing flower buds when they’re young. As those buds start rising up on the growing stems, stick a stake next to the plant and tie it in.

You can also place the stake when you first put the plant in the ground. The younger they are when you start staking your dahlias, the better off they’ll be. You run a real risk of damaging the tubers the longer you wait.

If you stake after planting, gently insert a six-foot stake at least a foot into the ground and a foot away from the plant when the dahlia is a foot tall.

Insert it carefully, wiggling as you go, so you don’t damage the roots. If you feel resistance, lift the stake and move it a bit. Repeat on the other side of the plant.

Don’t use thin bamboo stakes. You need to use something sturdy.

Stakes made of steel and coated in plastic are generally much sturdier than wood or bamboo.

For example, these steel and plastic stakes by Garmeinea come in 48- and 60-inch heights, which are about right for these tall dahlias.

Garmeinea Stakes

You can pick a pack of 25 up at Amazon.

Take a piece of twine, attach it to the first stake, and run it to the next stake.

Loop around the second stake and go back to the first stake. Now the dahlia stem should be held securely between the two pieces of twine.

As the plant grows, you’ll need to assist it so it doesn’t grow outside the twine or bump into any string you might have placed above it.

You’ll also need to add new layers every six inches to a foot going up vertically as the plant grows.

If that sounds like too much work, you can also use one of those tall, square tomato cages.

For tips on training and supporting dahlias, read our full guide.

Growing Tips

• Grow in full sunlight.
• Pinch the main stem when plants are 10 inches tall.
• Stake stems before they reach a foot in height.
• Fertilize monthly starting when plants are a foot tall.

Pruning and Maintenance

Beyond pruning off any damaged or diseased leaves, you don’t need to do much in the way of pruning. But deadheading and cutting blossoms is another matter.

The more flowers you take, the more your plant will produce, so don’t be shy. Go out every few days once the plant starts blooming, and use a sharp pair of scissors to cut young blossoms.

Try to cut stems that are at least six inches long, even if it means taking a few flower buds. Don’t worry, the plant will replace those buds.

You want to cut flowers that are young and recently opened. The back petals shouldn’t be soft and fading.

Put the cut stems in water immediately.

If you decide to keep the flowers on the plant in the garden, deadhead the blossoms as they begin to turn brown. Don’t wait until all the petals have fallen off.

Trim back to the nearest leaf joint or where the flower stem meets the main stem.

Cultivars to Select

There are two classifications of decorative types of dinnerplate dahlias: formal and informal.

Formal types have petals that grow in an even pattern. The petals are usually flat.

Informal types have petals that can be slightly rolled, particularly at the tips. The petals grow in an irregular pattern.

The petals at the center of the flower will usually be curled, regardless of type.

Here are a few that deserve a spot in your garden:

Bristol Stripe

With nine-inch-wide fully double blossoms, ‘Bristol Stripe’ is already perfectly poised to grab all the attention.

The white and violet-fuchsia striped petals just solidify this flower’s status as one that’s “impossible to ignore.”

The stripes can vary from narrow to wide and might be solid or broken, so each petal – and flower – is totally unique. At the center is a faint flush of yellow.

Some blossoms might have an abundance of white petals and others might be primarily violet-fuchsia.

It’s a constantly-surprising treat on an informal-class plant.

Cafe au Lait

Sit down with a cup of coffee and get to know one of the most popular dinnerplate dahlias on the market today.

‘Cafe au Lait’ is a favorite for bridal bouquets and floral arrangements, but part of what I love about it is that it’s a constant surprise.

The eight-inch informal flowers can be a creamy tan, almost like a steaming cup of cafe au lait, but the flowers might also be peach, blush, or pale violet, all on the same plant.

The only thing you can be certain of is that you’ll be growing some incredible double blossoms.

‘Cafe au Lait’

Coffee’s ready! Get these tubers while they’re hot at Eden Brothers in packs of two, four, or eight.

Dutch Grown also carries this fan favorite in similar quantities.

Emory Paul

Dinnerplates are massive, but ‘Emory Paul’ makes most of them look like appetizer plates.

The fuchsia pink, formal flowers can grow over 14 inches in diameter on four-foot stems.

But the compromise is that you’ll have to wait a little bit longer than usual for the flowers to fully emerge.

‘Emory Paul’

Make two, four, or eight tubers yours by visiting Dutch Grown.

Ferncliff Illusion

With flowers up to 10 inches in diameter, this dahlia already commands attention. But with white blossoms tipped in vibrant fuchsia, there’s no looking away.

The plant can grow over five feet high, making it even more of an attention-grabber.

But what makes it extra special is that it’s an extremely vigorous plant. It will grow numerous tubers that you can divide so you can fill your garden with ‘Ferncliff Illusion.’

‘Ferncliff Illusion’

You can purchase two, four, or eight tubers of this informal dahlia at Dutch Grown.

Fleurel

I’m all for a big, colorful display, but sometimes a little restraint is in order.

Whether you use the eight-inch blossoms of ‘Fleurel’ for a bridal bouquet or to bring a moment of serenity to your garden, this elegant informal dahlia is a classic beauty that whispers rather than shouting.

The twisted petals add a ruffled texture to the appearance.

The plant itself can grow to about four feet tall, though it usually stays a bit shorter.

Kelvin Floodlight

If I ever become a respected engineer and physicist, I hope people honor me with a dahlia as beautiful as ‘Kelvin Floodlight.’

This yellow formal type shines as brightly as the sun, seemingly flooding the garden with light.

The massive heads can be over 10 inches wide.

Labyrinth

Looking at the peach and pink blossoms on ‘Labyrinth,’ it’s easy to feel like you’ve gotten lost in a watercolor painting of a summer sunset.

The curling petals are shades of pink, peach, and creamy salmon, blending together in a swirl of pastels.

This informal type might be as small as three feet in height, but it will grow up to four feet tall in the right conditions.

‘Labyrinth’

This is one dahlia I wait in anticipation for each year. If you’d like to add it to your garden, visit Eden Brothers for a pack of two, four, or eight tubers.

‘Red Labyrinth’

There’s also a newer red version of this cultivar, with red and pink petals. It’s also available at Eden Brothers in the same quantities.

Otto’s Thrill

Bright pink, 10-inch informal flowers with pastel pink tips are the hallmark of ‘Otto’s Thrill.’ In fact, anyone looking for a floral focal point will be thrilled with this decorative dinnerplate dahlia.

Not only are the cotton candy blossoms eye-catching, but the stems are often strong enough to stand on their own without staking.

Penhill

Penhill is a series of dinnerplates that can grow five feet tall with 10-inch blossoms.

The petals of this informal type are all twisted and curled, coming to a sharp point at the end, making the plant look like a pastel fire.

There are several colors in this series, including the deep pink ‘Dark Monarch’ and the yellow and salmon ‘Autumn.’

But the color of Penhill ‘Watermelon’ is the most popular, for good reason. The petals are an airy mixture of coral pinks.

Penhill ‘Watermelon’

For two, four, or eight ‘Watermelon’ tubers, visit Eden Brothers.

Managing Pests and Disease

You don’t need to worry about herbivores pestering your dahlias, but pests like snails and aphids will.

Less often, thrips and cutworms, like the large yellow underwing (Noctua pronuba) and the variegated cutworm (Peridroma saucia), will visit.

Cutworms pose the biggest threat when the plants are young. The caterpillars will mow down young plants at the soil level.

When plants are older, cutworms just nibble on the leaves and don’t do much real damage.

For tips on how to protect your young dahlias, read our cutworm guide.

For the full rundown on dahlia pests, our article has all the details. Dinnerplate dahlias are susceptible to all of the pests described here.

As far as diseases go, botrytis blight,caused by Botrytis cinerea, and powdery mildew, caused by Golovinomyces cichoracearum, are the most common issues. If you see gray mold or a powdery coating on your plants, it’s likely one of these two problems.

Stem rot and verticillium wilt are less common.

If you cut the flowers, remember that they don’t open much more once you’ve severed them from the plant.

Look at the back petals. If they’re soft or fading, you waited a bit too long to pick. You want them just as soon as they’ve opened fully.

Re-cut the stems under running water, place in a vase and change the water daily, and they should last for up to a week. If they start to droop, recut the stems under water.

These aren’t the best dahlia options for container growing unless you have a massive pot. They’re just too top-heavy and large.

By the way, if you want to try eating the tubers, feel free. But dinnerplate types aren’t the best ones to use for this purpose.

You want the smaller-flowered, heirloom types if you’re looking for a tuber that tastes even remotely good. I can tell you from experience that dinnerplate tubers are bland.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Herbaceous flowering perennial	Flower / Foliage Color:	White, pink, red, yellow, orange, purple/green
Native to:	Mexico	Maintenance:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	8-10	Tolerance:	Some drought
Bloom Time:	Summer, fall	Soil Type:	Loose, rich
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	6.5-7.0
Time to Maturity:	16 weeks	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	18 inches	Companion Planting:	Geraniums, snapdragons, zinnias
Planting Depth:	1/8 inch (seeds), 1-2 inches (tubers)	Uses:	Cut flower, group planting
Height:	Up to 5 feet	Order:	Asterales
Spread:	32 inches	Family:	Asteraceae
Growth Rate:	Fast	Subfamily:	Asteroideae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Tribe:	Coreopsideae
Common Pests and Diseases:	Aphids, cutworms, slugs, thrips; Botrytis blight, powdery mildew, stem rot, wilt	Genus:	Dahlia

Dinner’s On!

Big isn’t always better, but in this case, it certainly is.

The huge blossoms of dinnerplate dahlias only serve to emphasize the dramatic shape and color of the flowers. If you love dahlias, dinnerplates offer more bang for your dahlia buck.

Which dinnerplate is your favorite? Are you growing yours to use in cut displays or bouquets? Tell us all about your plans.

If you’re looking for more ways to use dahlias in mixed plantings, whether in an eye-catching grouping or in a pollinator garden, these guides can shed some light on the next steps: