Category: Home & Garden

Few precious gardens stop you in your tracks and take your breath away. Sarah Price’s return to the Chelsea Flower Show, which opens today in London, does just this, presenting so many spell-binding vistas, sensitive combinations, and extraordinarily beautiful plants and colors that it lingers in the mind and will surely be one of the show’s most influential gardens of recent history. Step inside for a closer look.

Photography by Clare Coulson.

First, the plants: The artist Cedric Morris’s bearded irises are the stars of the show, where they are planted into the garden’s warm-toned fine gravel with space to be admired. Softening the effect is fennel, euphorbia, the gorgeous spires of Angelica archangelica, poppies, and thyme, and silvery foliage from stachys and Salvia sclarea.

Beyond the iris, the dazzling Aeonium ‘Zwartkop’ adds punchy dots of deepest burgundy while Rosa mutabilis—trained as a climber here—along with wisteria adorn the sublime rendered and color-washed walls. Around the garden Elaeagnus ‘Quicksilver’ provides a delicious honey-scented silvery backdrop while two fabulous Pinus sylvestris trees, which are pruned as stone pines, provide a spectacular statement over the more open areas.

Price’s first eureka moment in the long path to her design was when she saw Sarah Cook’s collection of Benton irises at the show back in 2015. These cultivars—bred over decades in the mid 20th century by the artist and plantsman Cedric Morris at his 16th century home in Benton End, Suffolk—enraptured her with their indescribable colors and gradations.

She immediately decided that one day she would do a garden based around them. The next pivotal moment was a visit to Morris’s home at Benton End in Suffolk, now in trust to the Garden Museum. The meadow was dotted with fritillaries including F. pyrenaica and anemones, and set against a backdrop of arching Elaeagnus and dark green pines. It was, she says, completely enchanting.

Those inspirations have been reimagined in what is essentially a dry garden with soft casually placed brick paths and gravel providing the warmest backdrop. As you’d expect, there are lots of Morris’s other favorites in the garden too, many of which have been named after him—a scented rambling white rose, a wild sweet pea, and grey poppies.

Aside from the plants, this garden is jam-packed with innovation and inspiring sustainable ideas. When Price was last here five years ago, she says, “no one was really interested that I’d made the garden with rammed earth walls and recycled tiles or that we’d used no cement.” All that has changed. As in her 2018 garden, the beauty here is ramped up by the low-carbon, “reuse and recycle” philosophy—from the mellow air-dried bricks to the lime-rendered straw bale walls and recycled canvases that are colored with natural paints. Garden containers were also made from air-dried sand that was pulled out of a reservoir at Price’s contractor’s Surrey HQ. Even the ropes that are used around the garden have been laboriously crafted over weeks using waste hops and brambles. Furniture has been made from fallen trees. This was all the result of close collaboration with Local Works Studio. It’s a garden truly made by hand.

Joe sent in today’s photos, which feature the beautiful garden of his neighbors Julie and Mike in Baltimore.

The gardens, started 20 years ago, were built on a rustic farm-implement theme. Julie and Mike have spent a lot of time searching antique shops for the right artifacts as well as garden centers for the perfect plants to complement their style of gardening. Julie and Mike are in perfect sync and, like all gardeners, have had plant disappointments but are not deterred. This garden also features lots of birdhouses, bird feeders, birdbaths, and plants to attract pollinators. In about a month it will be in full bloom with scores of coneflowers, rudbeckia, etc., and a wide assortment of annuals in containers.

You can see that Julie and Mike’s careful attention to finding the right artifacts and art for the garden, combined with careful planting, has paid off!

In the front beds in spring, some blooms are visible here and there in a prelude to the peak bloom that will arrive later in the season.

Lush green accented with purple foliage and flowers makes a soothing and harmonious landscape.

I love the carved face in what looks like an old tree trunk turned into an art piece.

The basket of an antique tricycle makes a perfect spot for summer annuals. Note the two hummingbird feeders above, welcoming visitors to the garden.

An old wagon is full of blooms, and antique jugs serve as supports for more bird feeders.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Diplocarpon rosae

If you want to see a rose gardener cry, all you have to do is say these two words: black spot.

Sooner or later, it seems like everyone who raises roses will encounter this exasperating disease. It’s not just unattractive, it can reduce the health and vigor of your plant.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

Beyond the characteristic purple-black spots on the leaves, the fungus known as Diplocarpon rosae can also cause the foliage to drop.

In warm, humid places like Great Britain and the Pacific Northwest, it has caused a serious decline in the health of many rose gardens.

It’s so bad sometimes that certain gardeners have given up on roses.

I can’t tell you how many people I know who have pulled their roses or decided not to plant them because they don’t want to have to tangle with black spot.

It’s a no-good, very bad disease. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to help you deal with it:

Rose growers know that black spot is bad news. It’s one of the most destructive diseases out there. But it doesn’t have to ruin your day.

What Is Black Spot?

Black spot is a fungal disease caused by the pathogen Diplocarpon rosae.

The fungal spores need warm temperatures and moisture to reproduce and spread. Wet spring and fall weather is just the thing, particularly when the temperatures are between 75 and 85°F.

As conditions change to become less favorable for the fungus in the summer, your plant might recover, but don’t be fooled.

The disease will come back in the fall unless you take steps to get rid of it.

Black spot probably won’t kill your plant, but it might make you want to step in and finish the job. Plants will be sparse, sickly, and they won’t bloom well when the infection is severe.

You can see why people decide to rip the roses out of their gardens when this problem has been lingering for a while.

Symptoms

Black spot looks a lot like what you’d expect from the name. It most commonly causes purple or black round patches on the upper surface of leaves.

The spots can be as tiny as a pinhead or as large as a dime. The edges of each spot are feathered and they may develop yellow margins.

An affected leaf will sometimes turn yellow or brown, but not always. Regardless, infected leaves might fall off the plant.

The stems don’t escape unscathed, either. They might form black scabs. The fungus hides in these scabs during the winter.

When a plant is heavily infected, all of the leaves might fall off. Without leaves, the plant can’t create energy stores, and that means slower growth and reduced flowering.

It’s this reduction in the plant’s ability to photosynthesize that causes much of the stunted growth and impacts flowering.

Prevention

Remember how the spores need moisture to spread? You can help prevent the disease from moving around by reducing moisture.

That means watering in the morning so any splashes can dry quickly and watering at the soil level rather than on the foliage.

This also highlights why it’s important to situate plants well, with full sun and without crowding.

Crowded plants dry more slowly and hold onto water longer, giving the fungus more chances to reproduce and spread.

The fungus that causes this disease overwinters in plant debris like fallen leaves and pruned stems. That’s why cleaning up your garden bed in the fall is crucial.

And planting in the right place is just as important. We have a whole guide to help you figure out exactly where to plant your roses.

But essentially, you want to choose a spot with full sun exposure, particularly morning sun, and good air circulation.

Control

Before we talk about control, be aware that you can’t cure infected leaves and stems. Control involves preventing any future spread so that new leaves will be disease-free.

Part of what makes black spot so awful is that the fungus that causes it is genetically diverse, and it’s constantly evolving. It rapidly changes to evade fungicide use and to invade resistant cultivars.

Prevention and judicious pruning are your best lines of attack, because the use of fungicides often just creates resistance.

Control starts the moment you realize the disease is present, and the faster you act, the better off your plants will be.

Prune off every symptomatic leaf and stem. Then, keep on pruning your rose to improve air circulation. Remove all but five of the healthiest canes on shrub roses.

Be sure to use clean and sanitized tools, and do not move from plant to plant without cleaning them well, to prevent further spread.

Rake up all of the leaves on the ground in the fall or winter.

At this point, do another round to check your plants and see if any new symptomatic leaves and stems have developed. Pluck or cut off any infected leaves and stems that you find.

This won’t prevent the disease from returning next year, but it will limit the progression.

If you opt to use chemicals, rotate them and try to limit their use, or you’ll just breed resistant black spot fungi in your garden.

My routine involves spraying my plants with copper fungicide first thing in the late winter in USDA Growing Zone 8. Spray in early spring in cooler Zones.

Liquid Copper Fungicide

Liquid Copper Fungicide is available from Bonide via Arbico Organics.

Once the leaves have fully emerged and flower buds are forming, I spray with a product that contains mancozeb, or Bacillus amyloliquefaciens strain D747.

Bonide’s Revitalize contains this beneficial bacterium that has a well-earned reputation for battling bad fungi.

Bonide Revitalize

Arbico Organics carries it in 32-ounce ready-to-use bottles or a 16-ounce concentrate.

Then, in the late summer, I do a treatment with sulfur.

Bonide Sulfur Fungicide

You can nab a bottle of Bonide Sulfur Fungicide at Arbico Organics in a one-pound bottle or four-pound bag.

Finally, in the fall, I treat with copper again as the plants are going dormant. If it rains heavily, I will reapply whichever treatment I most recently used.

As you can tell, it’s a keep-’em-guessing type of strategy. You don’t have to follow this exact routine.

You could use sulfur first, copper next, and mancozeb or a biofungicide after that. The order doesn’t really matter.

You can also mix in a product that contains captan, ferbam, maneb, or triforine.

I try to use products that are a bit easier on the environment than these are, and I don’t find that these chemical-based products are any more effective. But it’s your garden, so it’s your choice.

When I stay on top of things, this routine keeps my plants mostly symptom free, which is quite an accomplishment where I live since black spot thrives here.

However, if I don’t stay on top of the routine, I find I need to implement a more intense system for a year to get things back under control.

That involves the same process of alternating treatments, but instead of applying four treatments per growing season, I reapply whichever product I’m using every two weeks for a total of six weeks before I switch to the next product.

Then, the following year, I can return to less frequent applications.

Remember, you’re trying to find a balance between killing the fungus and creating a resistant superfungus.

If you’re using a more frequent routine, back off a little if it’s looking like the disease is coming under control. Maybe treat once a month unless symptoms return.

Plant Resistant Roses

Rose breeders are working hard to come up with cultivars and hybrids that can withstand black spot, and whoever comes up with one that is completely immune will find themselves incredibly wealthy and respected.

As it stands right now, as new resistant cultivars come onto the market, the disease evolves to overcome that resistance.

It sucks, right?

If you’re hoping to avoid the problem, don’t plant hybrid teas, floribundas, or climbing cultivars, in general. They’re extremely susceptible. Yellow and copper-flowered types are also more susceptible.

Strangely, since they’re often more susceptible to diseases, Old Garden roses like noisettes, damasks, and China roses might contract the disease, but it rarely progresses far. Shrub roses are also resistant, and rugosa roses are practically immune.

If you have your heart set on a floribunda, climber, or hybrid tea, here are some excellent resistant cultivars – at least, for now:

‘All That Jazz’ is a floribunda with bright orange blossoms and a heady damask scent.

‘Angel Face’ has fully double medium pink blossoms.

‘Angel Face’

It’s a floribunda and tea hybrid that has won piles of awards. Nature Hills Nursery carries ‘Angel Face’ in #3 containers.

‘Anytime’ has pinky-orange semi-double flowers. It’s a hybrid of ‘New Penny’ and ‘Elizabeth of Glamis.

‘Carefree Delight’ is a semi-double shrub rose with clusters of cream and pink flowers.

‘Cayenne’ is a floribunda bred by noted breeder Kordes. It has fiery orange-red, double blossoms.

‘Charlotte Anne’ is a thornless floribunda with pale lavender semi-double flowers.

‘Distant Drums’ is my personal favorite because of its stunning bronze inner petals cupped with lavender pink petals on the outside of the blossom.

It was bred by Griffith Buck, who is known for his disease-resistant and cold-tolerant plants. My two plants are the few in my yard without the disease.

‘Eden’ is a Meilland-bred climbing rose with fully double, deeply cupped pink flowers.

‘Elizabeth Taylor’ has vibrant pink, double flowers. This hybrid tea has a spicy fragrance.

‘Granada’ is a highly fragrant hybrid tea featuring large, distinctive flowers. They have medium pink flowers with dark pink edges on the outside of the blossom. On the inside are golden pink petals.

‘Lady X’ is a hybrid tea beloved for its mauve-purple double flowers.

‘Livin’ Easy’ lives up to its name, needing little care to thrive. It’s a floribunda with large, coral-colored blossoms.

‘Marilyn Monroe’ has apricot-colored petals on a hybrid tea plant. The fully double blossoms are mildly fragrant.

‘Mikado’ is popular across North America. This hybrid tea has orange-red blossoms.

‘Mister Lincoln’ is exceptionally popular and it serves as the rootstock for many, many grafted roses.

‘Mister Lincoln’

It’s a hybrid tea with deep, dark purple-red roses. Bring Mr. Lincoln home from Nature Hills Nursery in a #2 container.

‘Pascali’ features bright white blossoms on a vigorous hybrid tea shrub.

‘Peace’ is the rose that started it all for Meilland International. The yellow, cream, and raspberry pink blossoms are instantly recognizable on this hybrid tea.

‘Princess of Monaco’ is a hybrid tea bred by Meilland with pink and cream petals edged in raspberry pink.

‘Ramblin’ Red’ is one of the few resistant climbers, and I can attest to its ability to avoid black spot infection. Along with ‘Distant Drums,’ it’s the only other rose to escape the disease in my garden.

‘Ramblin Red’

The bright, double flowers are striking. Grab this beauty in a #3 container at Nature Hills Nursery.

‘Simplicity’ is a floribunda that received its name for its easygoing nature. The pale and medium pink blossoms are faintly rose-scented.

‘Sunspire’ has gorgeous golden-yellow double flowers that are intensely fragrant. It’s a floribunda.

‘Voodoo’ is a hybrid tea with scarlet flowers that gradually transition to orange as they age.

‘Wanderin’ Wind’ is a shrub rose blanketed in double pink flowers, and it’s a vigorous grower that will continue to bloom all summer.

‘Winchester Cathedral’ is a David Austin sport of ‘Mary,’ featuring double white blossoms that will fade to pale pink. The blossoms have a sweet fragrance.

Look-Alike Diseases

Chances are good that if there are black spots on your roses, it’s black spot disease. It’s that common. But there are a few other diseases that can cause leaf spotting.

For instance, downy mildew results in spots that can be dark when they’re young, eventually expanding and forming a gray or tan center.

Look for the purplish spores on the underside of the leaves. If it’s present, you know you’re dealing with downy mildew.

Canker causes dark spots on the canes and stems, but not the leaves. Rust can also cause dark spots, but you’ll see orange fungus on the undersides of the leaves.

Cercospora causes black spots with a tan center.

To make things more confusing, black spot might be present along with these diseases.

Out, Darn Spots

I hope you came to this guide out of sheer curiosity and not necessity. But if you came here because your plants have the dreaded black spot, just know that all isn’t lost.

It takes some work, and your plants might never be 100 percent symptom-free, but you can still enjoy your beautiful roses. Sometimes it’s about accepting good enough rather than demanding perfection.

Which roses are you growing? Are you dealing with black spot? Tell us about it in the comments, we’re always here to help.

And as you continue on your rose-growing journey, consider using these guides to help you along:

For those looking to level up their container gardening game, why not give coleus a try? The leaves of Coleus species will definitely add vibrant tropical colors to your foliar repertoire.

Believe it or not, my most memorable experience with containerized coleus was actually at Busch Stadium, aka the home of the St. Louis Cardinals – stay with me, Chicago Cubs fans. Or “bear” with me, I suppose.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

During my internship with Focal Pointe Outdoor Solutions – I can’t hype them up enough, by the way – one of the highlights was gaining access to the stands near the foul poles, where some pretty red coleus was waiting in a long planter box.

As a client of Focal Pointe, the Cards needed outside help in caring for such plants throughout the stadium.

As I watered and fertilized the coleus, I was reminded of how important their colors can be.

In their beautifully leafy way, these red plants actually added to the Cardinals’ red aesthetic. They certainly got air time whenever slightly foul balls were hit.

Long story short, if coleus plants are good enough for an MLB stadium, then they’ll definitely look amazing in your garden.

And with our guide to cultivating them in containers, you’ll be able to grow these guys like a pro.

Here’s a lil’ preview of everything we’ll cover up ahead:

A Coleus Primer

For those unfamiliar with this plant, it’s an herbaceous, leaf-heavy perennial that grows anywhere from six to 36 inches tall.

It usually has a similar spread, although the upright and trailing types can be narrower or wider than they are tall.

It grows outdoors year-round as a perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 11, but it’ll need to be brought indoors or grown as an annual in more northern climates.

Many varieties prefer full shade, partial shade, or dappled sunlight, but there are some cultivars that actually do quite well in full sun.

A member of the Lamiaceae, aka the mint family, coleus has square-shaped stems, with pairs of opposite-facing leaves that alternate directions with each node.

Its flowers are aesthetically insignificant, though they do attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies.

Different types bear leaves of various shapes, widths, and lengths. Their margins may differ in appearance, ranging from serrated to smooth to wavy.

You can find these guys in pretty much every color, except for true blue. (Sorry again, Cubs fans.) And color patterns range from uniform hues to the practically kaleidoscopic.

Why Cultivate a Containerized Coleus?

It’s a fair question, especially when it could easily be grown in-ground. Our guide to growing coleus covers how to do just that.

But growing these plants in containers actually comes with a few notable advantages:

Accessibility

A coleus isn’t the tallest of tropical plants. Thus, their prunable and pinchable parts can require some significant stooping to access, especially when the plant is growing in the ground.

But with a pot, window planter, or raised bed, you can easily raise your specimens a couple feet, which makes them easier to reach and work with.

It certainly feels better on your back when you don’t have to bend over as much!

Flexibility

Should you decide that it needs a new home, a plant that’s grown in-ground is much more difficult to move than a plant that’s grown in a container.

For the former, you have to time it in the appropriate season, dig it out of the soil, and gingerly keep the plant together and undamaged while relocating it.

Plus, you have to be extra diligent with cultivation after transplanting, at least until the transplant has established itself.

But for plants in pots or hanging baskets, moving them is as simple as picking up the container, walking a little ways, and then setting it down again.

Even if the pot is heavy and unwieldy, moving it usually takes less time and effort in the long run than in-ground transplanting does.

Even for essentially immovable containers such as raised beds or window planters, the plants within are usually easier to transplant than in-ground specimens, since soilless media tends to be lighter and easier to work with than garden soil.

Style

Unless you try to spice things up with mulch or compost, an in-ground plant is a garden plot’s only source of beauty.

Other than providing an earthy and natural vibe – which, to be fair, your garden probably has plenty of already – the soil doesn’t add much to the aesthetic, leaving it up to the plant itself to provide all the pizzazz.

But a properly-chosen container can really complement the plants within, aesthetics-wise. Different sizes, shapes, materials, colors, and designs leave you with a whole bunch of options.

Combine that with all the various colors, sizes, and leaf forms that these plants offer, and you could come up with unique coleus-container pairings until the end of time.

Choosing a Variety, Container, and Growing Medium

With around 300 species of Coleus and a far greater amount of cultivars to choose from, a gardener could easily be driven mad with indecision.

To avoid this, I’d recommend coming up with a few ideas as to what you might want before you go browsing.

Once you’ve narrowed the list down a bit and selected a coleus or two to start with, it’s time to choose a container.

Different container materials all have their pros and cons when it comes to cost, appearance, weight, durability, and other factors. And whichever you choose is entirely up to you.

Just know that porous materials such as unglazed ceramic, terra cotta, and concrete will dry out faster than non-porous materials such as plastic, metal, and fiberglass.

And since a coleus loves sitting in moist soil, a slow-to-dry material will better preserve moisture, which will save you trips with the watering can.

Regardless of the container’s material, though, you should ensure that its bottom has drainage holes. You don’t want to cause root rot or create a chronically saturated environment that pathogens love!

The intended amount and size of your specimens will determine their container’s size.

Depending on its mature size, a coleus needs eight to 12 inches of elbow room, so make sure to choose a container that provides at least that much depth and lateral spacing per plant.

A standard 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite will retain water, allow for sufficient aeration and drainage, and have a pH somewhere in the 6.0 to 7.0 range.

To provide the organic richness that a coleus craves, work about an inch of an organic material such as compost into the media at planting time. 

You can also utilize a bioactive organic potting mix, which will start your plants off with the organic matter, minerals, and nutrients that they need to thrive.

Organic Potting Mix, 20 Quarts

If this tickles your fancy, try this premium organic potting mix from Gardener’s Supply.

With your selected media mixture, fill up your choice of container about an inch or so shy of the brim. After that, you’re ready to add the coleus!

Planting, Placement, and Container Care

Regardless of whether its placement is in- or out-of-doors, a coleus is ready to be planted when ambient temperatures are consistently above 60°F, although the 70 to 100°F range is optimal.

With your variety’s exposure preferences in mind, decide where you’re going to place the plant.

Doing this before the actual planting takes place is especially important for plants in immovable containers such as window boxes and raised beds.

Don’t forget that pots become significantly heavier when they’re filled with plants and soil, and then watered.

When it’s time, dig a hole that’s about as deep and a bit wider than the specimen’s root ball. Lower the plant in the hole, backfill with the dug-out media, then water in the root zone. Kudos, ya done planted it!

Move the container if it’s not in its intended location already. Once it’s set, it’s time for the easy part: the everyday cultivation and maintenance.

You’ll want to maintain moist soil at all times, meaning you should add water whenever the top inch of the media feels dry. To keep any excess moisture off the leaves, be sure to avoid irrigating from overhead – directly water the root zone instead.

Since flowering can cause leggy growth and take visual emphasis away from the foliage, pinch back the blooms whenever they emerge.

This has the physiological benefit of redirecting the plant’s energy from reproduction into growing stronger stems, bushier leaves, and a denser form overall.

If individual stems start to grow distractingly long, feel free to trim them down to the desired length. A plus of pruning? You can root the pruned stems and propagate some new coleus plants from them!

Feeding-wise, you can’t go wrong with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. Just be sure to avoid fertilizers designed to encourage flowering, as you’ll end up with some leggy growth and those blah-looking blooms.

Apply your choice of fertilizer about once per month throughout the growing season.

Jack’s Classic Fertilizer

If you need a product suggestion, try this all-purpose, 20-20-20 NPK fertilizer from J R Peters, available on Amazon.

If you find that your plantings are starting to get a little cramped, gently lift and move them into new, media-filled containers.

Make sure their new homes are an inch or two larger in diameter than their old ones, and be extra diligent about their cultivation until they become established.

When it comes to cultivating coleus in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and up, not much changes throughout the calendar year.

Just make sure to cease fertilization during dormancy, and be aware that irrigation won’t be needed as frequently during this time.

If the outdoor temperatures start to consistently dip below 60°F, then you have a choice to make.

You can either bring your specimens indoors until outdoor temperatures become warm enough again, or you can accept their fate as annuals.

For plants that you choose to bring indoors until the outside temperature warms up again, do your best to mimic their preferred outdoor conditions.

Adjust your thermostat to the 60 to 75°F range, provide the proper light exposure, and maintain a moist growing medium. There’s no need to fertilize outside of the growing season.

For annual coleus that you choose to leave outdoors in cold environments, your plant parenting is pretty much finished at this point.

If their cold-injured demise pains you, feel free to move the plants to the compost pile before they start to show signs of damage.

You Really Ought to Use a Pot

Or a hanging basket, a raised bed, a window planter… your options abound, really.

A container-grown coleus provides the placement potential that an in-ground specimen never could. So have some fun with establishing colonies of coleus in new and exciting spots! As long as you cultivate properly, the only limit is your imagination.

Still have some burning questions? Have thoughts of your own to share? Consider this your invitation to visit the comments section.

Want to learn about other members of the mint family? Your journey begins here:

Collaborative post

The days are getting longer, temperatures are warming up, and we’re all starting to use our gardens more as a place to relax and entertain.  But after months of cold weather and indoor living, your garden might need some attention before it’s ready to welcome summer guests.

The good news is there are lots of low effort ways to revamp your garden and get it looking fantastic for al fresco summer entertaining.

Easy ways to revamp your garden

We’ve used the Very garden range to inspire our own low maintenance garden makeover.  Here’s our selection of products and top tips to take your outdoor space from boring to beautiful.

Tackle the clutter

Just like any interior room revamp, the first thing to tackle is the unwanted clutter in your garden.

Outdoor toys, plant pots, tools, and anything else that hasn’t quite made it to the shed or garage will make the space look untidy.  Get rid of any broken or unwanted items, then put away everything that’s left.

If lack of storage space is preventing you from keeping things tidy, an outdoor storage box or cupboard can work wonders.  Very’s garden storage range has lots of good options; we’ve gone for the Shire large storage cupboard to keep gardening equipment and toys under control and easy to access.

Spruce up the patio

Your patio or deck is probably the main area where you’ll be entertaining, so it’s definitely worth spending some time and effort to get it looking smart.

Start by sweeping away any loose dirt, then use a pressure washer or a bucket of soapy water to give the surface a good clean.  Make sure you rinse away any detergent thoroughly to avoid slippery surfaces.

Once the cleaning is done, adding accessories will give your patio personality and style. We’ve used Very’s shell ornaments to liven things up.

Add containers for instant colour

Containers filled with colourful flowers and interesting foliage are another brilliant way to bring your patio to life.  Use summer container plants in pots or hanging baskets for instant wow factor, or add unusual planters to create a focal point.  We love this elephant planter as a table centrepiece.

Don’t rule out artificial plants too; there are some gorgeous and very realistic products available these days.  We’ve used the boxwood hanging heart to bring some greenery to our patio screen.

Refresh garden furniture

Your outdoor furniture is a key part of successful entertaining, so make sure yours is up to the job.

If you’re happy with your existing furniture, give it a quick wash and treat wooden furniture with preservative to prevent weathering.

If you’re adding some new garden furniture to your outdoor space, think about the type of gatherings you usually host.  Do you need seats for a crowd, dining furniture for a smaller group, relaxed loungers for sunny get-togethers, or cosy chairs for two?

We’ve added some additional relaxed seating with the Noodle bistro set. The Chrysanthemum outdoor cushions add a lovely pop of colour.

Our patio is a real sun-trap, so we’ve also chosen the Marseilles lounger for some serious relaxation.

Set the mood with lights

Garden lighting can be a game-changer when it comes to creating ambience as the sun goes down.  String lights are fantastic for creating a cosy atmosphere, stake lights are great for highlighting specimen plants or garden ornaments, and path or step lights will help to keep everyone safe. Don’t forget the citronella candles too.

You can also use garden heating products to complement your outdoor style and keep guests comfortable when the temperature drops.

As you can see, there are lots of simple ways to transform your garden in time for summer entertaining. Make a start now, and you’ll be ready to host a gathering in style as soon as the sun comes out!

PIN FOR LATER

Very supplied us with the products used in this feature for review purposes.  All comments and opinions are honest and based on our experience of using the products.

Long-term herbicides are poisoning the entire composting stream.

Lyn Brookes writes:

We have discovered the effects of aminopyralid in municipal compost in Ireland. These are the places where people take their garden waste to be composted and then you can buy the resultant compost, which is a great idea and a renewable resource. They depend on grass clippings for the process, which we now think are responsible for contaminating this compost. A friend spread it round her garden and potted plants with it and the results are terrible, fern like foliage on tomatoes and legumes, and it has even affected a hydrangea. Commercial growers who use manure and municipal compost could find they lose all their crops. This has far reaching implications that we are starting to see. I believe that it is even finding its way into peat free growing mediums.

This is your regular reminder not to trust anything that has come in contact with Big Ag.

You cannot trust manure, straw, hay, mushroom compost, municipal compost, bulk potting soil or bagged manure.

The sellers of Black Kow bagged manure also have an idiotic canned response for people that write with concerns about possible contamination. It includes this ridiculous claim:

There are more concerns today about herbicides sprayed on pastures getting in Black Kow and then damaging plants. The herbicides creating most concern are (chloryralid or aminopyralids). These herbicides were mainly used on lawns on the west coast. So the residues have usually been found in yard waste composts. The residue from the herbicide will dissipate if it is aerobically composted over a period of time.  We compost our products for 10 to 12 weeks. Then the compost is cured for an additional 6 to 8 months.

What a surprise. A company that sells bullshit responds with the same. Lawn waste on the West Coast didn’t kill my gardens back in 2012.

This is the real story in a nutshell:

Hayfields all over Florida are sprayed with Aminopyralid and similar toxins to control broadleaf weeds such as spiny pigweed and wild blackberries.

This hay is then sold.

Animals that eat this hay pass through the toxins in their manure.

That manure can then be composted for months and months without the toxin breaking down.

Whatever compost is made or garden is fertilizer with this manure will see the effects of the toxin. It is very hard to break down and lasts for as long as a few years.

If you compost Graon-contaminated hay, it will also kill your garden. It will kill your garden as mulch, as well.

If there is sprayed hay – or manure from animals that have eaten the sprayed hay – getting into to your composting program, you are in trouble.

This is toxic trash and should be illegal. Period. There is no good way to manage this product. Time and time again it has damaged the gardens downstream from its use.

Grazon delenda est!

Share this post!

Ah, basil! The topping of a Margherita pizza, the base to pasta slathered in pesto, and the intensity behind Thai coconut curry. What’s not to love? Grow this fresh and bold herb for yourself to really make your cooking taste that much better. Here’s how to grow basil at home!

If I asked you to name a herb, I bet you basil would be one of the first words that pop into your head. People absolutely love basil, and it’s quickly become a staple in Western cuisine in the past few decades.

When you go to the grocery store, you’ll likely see sweet basil, Ocimum basilicum, for sale. While it is the most popular basil nowadays, it’s far from the only type out there. Thai basil and holy basil are some other favourites.

The basil found at the grocery store may only be a few bucks, but with that same amount of money, you could buy a packet of seeds for endless, big bushes of basil. Plus, the stuff you grow yourself will taste infinitely better and sweeter. I promise you!

So without further adieu, here’s how to grow basil yourself using five different methods.

Jump ahead to…

Expert Tips for Growing Basil

• Sweet basil, Ocimum basilicum, is the most common culinary basil found in the grocery store.
• You can easily grow basil by dividing an existing basil plant from the grocery store or by taking cuttings of it and placing it in water.
• Basil can be grown from seed as well. It’s best to start it indoors using a heat mat, then transplant it outside once the threat of frost has passed.
• Basil likes heat, so be sure to place it somewhere where it gets 6-8 hours of full sunlight daily.
• While growing, pinch the top parts of the basil off whenever you harvest to encourage a bushier shape.

History of Basil

Basil is a herbaceous plant that belongs to the mint family. In most parts of the world, it grows as an annual because it’s not frost tolerant. It originates from India and Africa but is now found globally.

In Indian culture, basil is a spiritual symbol that was used in spiritual offerings and as a household medicine. Holy basil, also known as Tulsi, was sacred to the Hindu god Vishnu, hence the name. In ancient Indian texts, the plant was written as a snakebite and scorpion sting treatment.

In Greece, basil represented mourning and was a part of funeral rituals. It remains a large part of Mediterranean cuisine, especially known for topping pizzas and as the base for pesto.

Basil can be found in the lowland regions of India through Bangladesh and Thailand to southern China. It’s also a key player in Indonesian, Thai, and Vietnamese cuisine, particularly Thai basil.

Check out this post to learn more about basil’s fascinating history.

Health Benefits of Basil

Ayurvedic, Traditional Chinese Medicine, and other holistic practices use basil for its health benefits. The most notable type of basil used for health is holy basil (Ocimum sanctum and O. gratissimum). However, some herbalists say that common sweet basil has similar medicinal effects.

Holy basil works as a nervine, stimulating the body but then bringing a sense of calm. They may seem contradictory, but it works well together. The basil moves any blocked energy and dispels sluggishness, bringing a feeling of calm. This is also why it can help with depression.

Holy basil also works as a warming and cooling agent. It’s known to help with respiratory ailments thanks to being antiviral, antibacterial, diaphoretic, and a decongestant.

In Indian, holy basil is commonly used to help with indigestion and vomiting, helping to stimulate appetite and digestion.

In Western herbalism, it is used as an adaptogen, which is used to help the body’s stress response and the negative effects that come from stress.

It’s also shown promise in aiding in liver health, fighting cancer, and reducing blood sugar for those with diabetes.

How to Grow Basil

If you buy basil in the store, it tends to be smaller plants that taste a little bit bitter and isn’t as sweet as garden-fresh basil. That’s because there are a whole bunch of plants crowded into those pots! You can bring them home to plant in your garden, and it will be much happier and sweeter.

But why?

Because basil will grow to be quite large in the garden.

Grocery store herbs are in tiny pots, or worse, cut from the roots and placed in a plastic clamshell package.

The herb pots are the ones I will often pick up when I see them because they house many small plants that are grown from seeds and can be transplanted into the garden or a pot at home.

Dividing Grocery Store Basil Plants

Give your basil plants more space to grow by separating them. Here’s how.

1. Grab the bunch of plants and pull them out to expose the root ball.
2. Gently tease apart the roots for each of the plants.
3. When you pull a plant out of the cluster with a nice, healthy root system, plant it in your garden.
4. You may harvest your basil as you need it throughout the season. It will have the most flavour before it flowers.

By following this process, you’ll grow amazing basil that you can use all summer long and then preserve it to use over the cold months too.

How to Grow Basil From Cuttings

Another one of the easiest ways to grow basil is from cuttings. You can take these cuttings from an existing basil plant, whether that’s the one you picked up from the grocery store or a clipping from your neighbour’s front yard.

To make a cutting, snip the basil stem, ensuring it has at least four sets of leaves. Remove the bottom two sets of leaves, and then place it in a glass of water. Let the glass sit in a sunny spot.

When the roots are visible, it’s ready to be transferred into the soil.

How to Grow Basil from Seeds

Of course, you can also grow basil from seed. People like to grow basil from seed since you have many more varieties to choose from and can grow a ton of basil at once (for those of you who love pesto!). Growing it this way is also much cheaper, as one packet of seeds will go a long way.

Most of us who experience some kind of winter want to grow the seeds indoors. You can do this using a sunny windowsill, a grow light set up, or a heat mat if you’ve got one.

Start off by using a seed-starting soil mix and your container of choice. I tend to make my own with soil blocks or just reuse plastic cells.

Moisten the soil before adding it to your seed starting container of choice. Plant 2-3 seeds per cell. Top it off with a clear dome (any clear plastic container works) to help it germinate.

Basil likes heat, so make sure it’s getting some. Consider placing a fan nearby it on low as well to prevent damping off.

As they grow, thin them out. You can transplant them outside once the threat of frost has passed. Harden them off for a few days by placing the seedling containers outside before planting them in the ground or in a new container.

Direct Sowing Basil Seeds

You can also sow basil seeds directly in the ground. But since basil likes heat, only those in zone 6 or higher should attempt this. Even then, it should be in late spring or early summer, at least two weeks after the last frost. The soil temperature should be about 70°F.

Basil is an excellent companion plant, doing exceptionally well alongside tomatoes and peppers.

How to Grow Basil Indoors

If you want basil year-round, you can grow it inside as well. I will say it’s a little trickier than other herbs to grow indoors since it likes to be in the ground where it gets lots of sun and get big. So rule number one, keep it somewhere extra sunny.

Make sure you plant it in a container with drainage holes to avoid soaking the roots. Pinch it to promote it getting bushier. And when it gets too leggy, simply cut off a few sprigs and start the basil from cuttings all over again.

I would highly recommend having a little countertop garden for your herbs, as this ensures it’s easily accessible when you’re cooking, and it gets enough light from the grow lights to actually make it indoors.

Ideal Conditions for Growing Basil

• Sun: as sun lovers, basil needs 6-8 hours a day of full sun. In hot climates, you may need to shelter your basil from the hot afternoon heat. However, basil likes heat, so don’t put it out too early in the season when the nights can still get cold.
• Water: give your basil a moderate amount of water. It isn’t super thirsty but isn’t drought tolerant, either.
• Soil: basil likes well-drained soil so it doesn’t have wet feet. Before planting, add some compost to improve the soil.
• Fertilizer: I don’t typically fertilize any plants that grow in my beds, as the surrounding soil already has enough nutrients. The compost you routinely add will also make a big difference. But if you grow basil in containers, you’ll need to fertilize every other week during the growing season.

Harvesting Basil

The key to getting a big, round basil plant is to pinch it often. This means you take off the top leaders. AKA, you’re harvesting as you go! Don’t pluck the leaves; instead, remove the whole stem.

Avoid letting the basil flower, as it won’t taste as good once it does. However, if you can spare a basil or two, the bees do love the flowers.

Basil is best fresh, but you can use it in plenty of ways. Here are 16 ideas to use up your basil!

And when you have a lot left and the season is nearing an end, you can dry the basil throughout the winter in your cooking.

Frequently Asked Questions About Basil

Happy planting! Let me know if you have any more basil growing questions in the comments below.

More Things to Know About Basil

Collaborative post

Are you thinking about buying a holiday property abroad? Many tourists dream of buying property with sea view in Thailand, but it’s understandable to feel like such a purchase will always be a dream. However, if you like the idea of turning it into a reality, you need to know the key points and trust the professionals.

Features of purchasing property in Thailand

Thailand entices foreign investors for lots of reasons. A sturdy economy, a stable state, expanded infrastructure, and a seaside location are all key benefits. Every year, more foreigners invest and become owners of villas and flats in Thailand; Phuket, Koh Samui, Pattaya and Hua Hin are all popular locations.

In Thailand, there are no additional incentives to buy land. Foreigners are not given a credit scheme, as in Europe or America. However, there tends to be no sharp jumps and collapses in property costs.

Real estate in Thailand is a promising asset. You can rent out your property when you’re not using it to generate a regular income.

Property search

When looking to buy property in Thailand, it’s a good idea to use an estate agent who is familiar with the country’s legislation and processes. You should also consider using a lawyer who is familiar with Thai law when reviewing the investment contract.

When you contact an agent, be specific about your request. Think carefully about the following questions:

• What is your budget?
• How many bedrooms do you need?
• Which location suits you?
• What type of property are you interested in?
• What is the goal of the investment: permanent residence or simply investment?

The agent will be able to provide a shortlist of several properties from different developers. They should also outline the pros and cons of each, and help with negotiations. You will benefit from their knowledge and understanding of the region, so make sure you use their expertise. You can use the services of Thailand-Real.Estate to get more details about properties.

Investment opportunities

In Thailand, you can buy a flat or a villa under construction. When buying a property under construction, you receive additional income from investing money at the initial stage of construction. At the current pace of construction, the period from zero to full readiness is approximately 18 months.

One of the advantages of buying a home in a resort is the ability to rent out the property to achieve a return on your investment. This can be done through a project management company, or on your own. Real estate cost charts and rental prices often do not follow parallel courses. When real estate prices fall, the rent cost goes up, which smooths out the risks for the investor.

Registration of real estate and payment

The procedure for registering the asset of real estate is simple. After choosing a property to buy, you pay a deposit. The normal deposit payment of ฿30,000-150,000 is usually paid at the developer’s office in cash or by bank transfer.

The next stage is the execution and signing of a contract with the developer. Payment of the first instalment comes next, after which the contract comes into force. The initial payment is usually about 10-50% of the value of the apartment.

After paying the deposit and the first planned payment, a payment schedule is drawn up. This can be monthly, quarterly, or tied to different stages of construction. The final and last payment is usually 10-30% of the property’s value.

The sales contract is signed in Thai or English. It usually contains the following information:

• Buyer and seller details;
• Property description;
• Price;
• Prepayment amount;
• Terms of the contract;
• Procedure for paying taxes on the transaction.

Prepayment is a pledge of payment under the contract, and confirmation of the buyer’s intention. If the payment of the property’s value under the contract does not occur, the prepayment is not refundable.

The terms for fulfiling all obligations under the contract, payment of the cost of the property, and transfer of property is determined individually. The last payment is often paid when registering the rights of ownership of the property in the name of the new owner directly at the Land Department. After the transaction is complete the customer accepts a chanot, ,this is a certificate of land ownership in Thailand.

Purchasing real estate on the secondary market is somewhat different and, as a rule, less popular due to the lack of instalment payments in most cases.

Today we’re visiting with Carol Lim, who gardens in Hendersonville, North Carolina, where she grows some beautiful and unusual plants.

Sarracenia ‘Daina’s Delight’ (pitcher plant, Zones 5–9) is in the large bog container, with a seedling of Prunus ‘Bonfire’ (Zones 5–8) in the background. I brought the two bog container gardens from Pennsylvania in 2009 when I moved to North Carolina. I had some instruction from a North American Rock Garden Society group led by Larry Mellichamp where we made a bog garden.

The colorful leaves of pitcher plants lure in insects, which are caught and then provide nutrients the plant. The flowers rise up above the leaves to attract pollinators for a less dangerous interaction.

A swallowtail butterfly rests on incredibly colorful pitcher plant leaves. Don’t worry—the butterfly is too large to get trapped by the pitchers.

I also have an extensive collection of native Clematis. This is Clematis texensis (Zones 4–8).

Another native Clematis, Clematis viorna (Zones 4–9)

Here is Clematis texensis growing with C. versicolor (Zones 5–9). I also grow C. carrizoensis, C. ochroleuca, and C. pitcheri. And I have some hybrids of those that have self-sown in the garden.

Clematis ‘Carol Lim’ was named for me and registered with RHS by Roger Van Loon, a friend in Belgium.

A large-flowered clematis hybrid

Pink flowers of Penstemon smallii (Zones 5–8) with a yellow foxglove (Digitalis grandiflora, Zones 3–8)

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

In late spring yellow fireworks light up damp, green fields, highway verges, and stream edges. Wintercresses are in vivid bloom, bursting from months-long dark green anonymity in a blaze of yellow. Whether the plants are a weed or a welcome seasonal vegetable depends on your wintercress point of view. Their firm, peppery leaves and tiny, cruciferous flowers are a spicy addition to any meal, making these opportunistic wild brassicas a welcome spring treasure for your forage basket, but also a worthy denizen of any vegetable garden.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

Wintercress is not one plant but three, all members of the mustard family: Barbarea vulgaris is a weed introduced from Europe; B. verna, (upland cress) is Eurasian in origin; and B. orthoceras (American yellow rocket) is native to North America and Asia, occurring mostly on the West Coast, and endangered in New England. Other common names—sometimes deployed interchangeably—for these spicy, edible spring greens include yellow rocket, garden rocket, bitter cress, land cress, and creasy greens.

Each of the wintercresses packs some horseradish heat, has firm leaves, tender, edible buds, and pretty, yellow, cruciform flowers. If you want to tell them apart, regard the leaves, closely: the basal (lower) leaves of B. verna have four or more lateral lobes on each side of a leaf’s midrib. The leaf of B. vulgaris leaves has four or fewer. The native B. orthoceras has a fringe of sparse hairs on some leaf auricles (botanically, an auricle is a small ear-like projection at the base of a leaf). Fortunately, the differences have no bearing on their edibility.

Wintercresses are excellent kitchen garden plants. Barbarea vulgaris requires plenty of water but will produce leaves through the year if you keep cutting it back and do not allow it to bloom. It can be grown as an annual, though it is a short-lived perennial. Unlike B. vulgaris, upland cress (B. verna, also marketed as creasy greens) remains full and robust with less water and also flourishes in humid summers, which is not typical of the Brassica family. It germinates very easily. Grow in full sun to semi-shade, sowing a couple of weeks before the last frost date in your area, through late fall.

The hot leaves of all wintercresses are excellent raw, especially with strong partners like grapefruit or pomelo, raw onion, crispy fried shallots, or fermented black beans. Tuck the leaves into a grilled cheese sandwich or lacto-ferment them to appreciate how that brassica sting evolves sweetly in the company of good bacteria. Or chop the raw leaves finely and smash them into good butter. The hot spice flavor mellows  a little when the leaves cooked (and especially if blanched) but still provide a backdrop of spice to the soups or slow-cooked stews that comfort us when the weather is still cold.

Your garden may be hidden in your backyard, but your home’s facade still deserves some greenery love. Enter window boxes—a versatile and transformative addition that brings life to dull and drab walls. This beginner’s guide will take you step by step through the exhilarating process of turning your window sills into thriving gardens in miniature.

Source

Envision a morning where you rise to the soft fragrance of petunias that have gently made their way into your room through the open window, or where the sunlight dancing on the alocasia leaves outside your window is your daily spectacle.

But more than just their beauty, these window boxes serve a purposeful role in your daily life, especially when you find yourself in the kitchen. Imagine never running out of your favorite herbs like rosemary or thyme when you’re in the middle of cooking because you always have help keeping your herbs stocked—right from the window box in your kitchen.

In such ways, window boxes do more than just beautify—they integrate into your lifestyle, marrying the practical with the pleasant.

What Should You Plant In Window Boxes?

Some of the best window boxes combine three different plant types: thrillers, spillers, and fillers. So, what are these, and how are they different from each other?

Thrillers are plants that attract attention and boost the overall design of the window box. Some of the best thrillers for window boxes are African iris (flowers with pointed leaves), salvia (a butterfly magnet), alocasia (a plant with emerald green leaves), and coleus (a plant with massive and upright leaves). 

Spillers are plants that add a bit of romance and softness to the plant, trailing along the side of the window box. Some of the best spillers to choose from are pothos (a plant with leaves like sunlight), petunia (a fast-growing plant known for its cottage vibes), and geranium (a flowering plant that blooms beautifully through summer). 

Fillers are mid-sized plants placed between thrillers and spillers. Their purpose is to add volume and make the window box look full. Some of the fillers include caladium (a plant with white-centered leaves), Agastache (a plant with peach-colored flowers), and impatiens (a plant with long-blooming flowers).

Planting a mix of thrillers, spillers, and fillers can transform any window box into a vibrant, living work of art.

What Are The Vegetables And Herbs For Window Boxes?

If your home is situated in an accessible location, consider planting some edibles. Plant herbs like thyme, mint, rosemary, chives, and sage. All you need to do is open your kitchen windows for fresh herbs. 

Vegetables like kale, marigolds, lettuce, and cherry tomatoes will look great in window boxes, too. To grow them properly, water them every two days and fertilize them every two weeks. Also, cultivate the soil gently every other day to ensure that water penetrates through the roots instead of running off to the side of the pot.

Note that window boxes are placed near your living quarters, so avoid fertilizers that produce strong odors like fish emulsion.

What Are The Types Of Window Boxes?

Not all window boxes are created the same. Here are some types of window boxes, each with a unique charm and design:

Metal window boxes are often made of iron. They provide a hollow metal cradle or frame to place your pots. And since it’s open, unlike other window boxes, you can’t put the soil directly into it and start planting your flowers. Regardless, they’re so pleasing to look at. 

Wooden window boxes are arguably the most popular type of window boxes. Not only are they cheap, but they’re also easy to style. They can be painted in any color and carved with different designs. 

However, due to consistent water exposure, wooden window boxes are vulnerable to rot and warp. Consider applying tried-and-tested sealants like lacquer and varnish to make them waterproof.

Vinyl window boxes aren’t as popular as wood and metal ones. But they can be the missing puzzle piece to the breathtaking facade you’ve ever dreamed of when appropriately designed. 

In addition, vinyl window boxes can hardly be distinguished from wooden ones. So, if you want a wooden design for your window box but prefer a cheaper, synthetic alternative, go for vinyl ones.

Window boxes made from fiberglass are ideal for modern homes. However, they’re delicate and a bit difficult to maintain. Also, they’re more expensive compared to the other types mentioned above.

Whether you choose metal, wood, vinyl, or fiberglass, the right window box type can add a charming touch to your home’s exterior while reflecting your personal style.

How To Care For Your Window Box?

Follow these simple care tips to keep your window boxes and good condition:

When choosing window boxes, look for ones with drainage holes. This is to ensure that the soil won’t be oversaturated with water, which can eventually kill the roots (root rot).

Mix sawdust, sand, coconut coir, soil, and bonemeal to create your own potting mix. You can also add compost, especially when growing edibles. Then, fill the window box and leave an inch above.

If your window boxes face the sun, water them regularly because they’ll dry out quickly. And if the soil settles after watering, don’t hesitate to add more.

By ensuring good drainage, using the right soil, and watering thoroughly, you can keep your window boxes thriving and enhance your home’s visual appeal.

What Are The Tips When Designing A Window Box?

Don’t know how to arrange and place your window boxes beautifully? Follow these simple tips:

Repetition is essential in window box planting. It creates a sense of order and flow—for example, a 15-foot-long window box with repeating groups of caladiums, coleus, and alocasia.

The texture is another essential feature of a great window box. Here’s an example of how you can achieve it: mix fountain grass, sweet potato vine, and croton. This ensures that each plant shines despite being packed in the box.

Choose one color palette for all window box plantings around your home if possible. Don’t mix multiple colors because your plantings will look confusing and unappealing to everyone who may pass by your home.

By using repetition, considering texture, and staying consistent with your color palette, you can design window boxes that are both visually pleasing and beautifully harmonious.Final Words

Window boxes are among the best ways to spruce up your facade and landscape design. As long as there are thrillers, spillers, and fillers in your plantings, you can create a full, vibrant window box. Keep the overall design on a smaller scale and water your plants thoroughly to keep them happy all day long.

Forgetting that she’s not a vegetable gardener, I was recently lamenting to my daughter Lucy that at least a couple of my zucchini plants end up flopping over each growing season.

“Oh, are they just being dramatic?” she asked, humorously.

If only that were the explanation! Homegrown zucchini, Cucurbita pepo, will droop, fall, or sag for various reasons, and none of them are the least bit entertaining.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

In this guide, I’ll cover a few of the most common reasons zucchini may flop, along with some preventive measures and potential treatments.

Learning the causes of this particular ailment will help you this season, sure, but it will also make it possible to enjoy a prolonged harvest of this popular summer squash for seasons to come.

Whether you’re storing the knowledge so you can spot problems if they occur or you’re already staring at drooping plants, here’s what could be at issue:

Though renowned for their fast growth and prolific yields, zucchini is not entirely carefree in the garden.

For the most part, once a plant has collapsed or fallen over, it’s too late to do much to revive it.

That’s why it’s so important to pay attention to these potential causes before the damage is done, and also to take steps to prevent them from flopping over in the first place.

Here are the top reasons your C. pepo might slump over and what to do to prevent or combat each one:

1. Damping Off

Damping off afflicts newly germinated seed, usually because it’s too wet and the soil contains one of the many oomycetes or fungi that cause this disease, including Pythium, Rhizoctonia, and Fusarium species.

You’ll recognize this condition by its speed. One minute the sprouts are green and happy, the next they’ve fallen over and wilted.

They’re not salvageable and should be disposed of immediately in the trash. If you wish to try again, sow new seeds in a different spot using fresh soil mix.

Next time, be sure to sow in well-draining soil, only in an area where you haven’t grown cucurbits before, and buy certified disease-free seeds from reputable vendors.

You can learn more about detecting and preventing damping off in our guide to zucchini diseases.

2. Squash Vine Borers

Vine borers, Melittia cucurbita, are a menace! They lay eggs at the plant’s crown, where the main stem meets the soil’s surface.

When the larvae hatch, they tunnel into the stem to feed, wrecking the plant’s vascular system.

Once these chubby white caterpillars with brown heads get established, the plant is doomed, with the main stem weakening until it collapses and the whole plant falls over.

You’ll know they’re the ones wreaking havoc if you spot little blobs that look like yellow sawdust. These are actually vine borer frass – excrement.

I’ve never had much luck with this, but if your zucchini starts falling over, you could look for the frass that indicates where the larvae are munching.

Then use a sterile knife to slice the vine open at that spot and scoop out and destroy the borer. (Yes, it’s gross).

Then pile fresh soil on top of the stem and hope it re-roots and carries on.

How can you keep vine borers away from your crop? First, it’s important to rotate crops so they won’t emerge from infested soil to attack new plants in the spring.

Make sure to look for the eggs where the stems emerge from the ground, and destroy them with insecticidal soap and a disposable wipe.

Some gardeners use a preventive application of insecticidal soap after the seedlings are a few inches tall.

You can also prohibit the bugs from laying eggs in the first place with a row cover, but that tactic necessitates removing the covers when the plants flower and need pollination – or hand pollinating.

Learn more about coping with squash vine borers in our guide to common zucchini problems.

3. Bacterial Wilt and Cucumber Beetles

A one-two punch causes the malady known as bacterial wilt. The bacteria lives in cucumber beetles and is encouraged by overly wet soil and humid conditions.

The beetles attack the seedlings and transfer the bacteria, which clogs the plant’s vascular system.

This results in vines that wilt, first just a leaf or two, but flopping over completely within a couple of days.

You can help protect your crops from the beetles by covering them with row cover up until they bloom, or growing them under row cover the entire season and hand pollinating the blossoms.

It’s also a good idea to improve air circulation by spacing the plants at least a foot apart and pruning them if they get too shrubby.

If you can spot them in time, you may be able to remove the infected specimens before the wilt sweeps through the patch.

In my experience, once wilt has seized hold, the best solution is to start over and grow your zucchini in a container for this season.

4. Gummy Stem Blight and Black Rot

There is no disguising the “ick” factor when a disease has “gummy” or “rot” in the description. And both of these fungal diseases are aptly named.

Caused by the fungus Didymella bryoniae, gummy blight causes damping off in newly sprouted zucchini.

In more mature plants, the fungus creates lesions on the leaves that are brown or tan and drips a red-brown gum, hence the name.

As the lesions get larger, they can girdle the stems, and this causes entire plants to collapse.

Sorry to say, but usually once gummy blight has gotten established, the vines will collapse and must be removed and destroyed.

Black rot is also caused by D. bryoniae. It typically affects only the fruit, but as it gains momentum, it can also kill the plant, which will cause that telltale slumping over that we all dread.

These fungi can spread via the wind, infected seeds, or purchased seedlings, so make sure you’re purchasing certified disease-free seeds from reliable growers.

Any cuts or wounds on the stems of older specimens can also allow the fungus to breach the plant. Cucumber beetles, melon aphids, and powdery mildew all encourage gummy blight.

Rotating your crops for two or three years before planting any cucurbits in the same spot is one way to discourage gummy blight and black rot.

Another is to remove and destroy or till under any plant debris each year after harvest.

5. Frost Damage

There is one time zucchini may fall over or collapse, but it’s not tragic or even particularly annoying.

Once these warm-weather-loving plants are subjected to frost, they ordinarily flop over the next day.

You may still be able to harvest a few lingering fruits, but the plants are done at that point, hopefully after a long, productive season.

Learn more about protecting zucchini from frost in our guide.

Next Time, No Flopping

Zucchini has this really fast germination rate, about a week maximum. Many types will also start producing fruits 45 to 50 days after sowing.

I’m reminding you of these traits as a source of comfort. Often, if your plants succumb to one of the ailments I’ve described, you can sow a successive crop and still have time to harvest this year.

And if not, there’s always next year when you’ll already possess this knowledge about preventing them from falling over.

Do you have any input on coping with collapsing zucchini plants, or questions on this topic for me, or your fellow gardeners? The comments section below awaits your input.

We also have a wealth of zucchini growing tips available on Gardener’s Path. Check out these guides next:

In our guide to growing daylilies, we discussed all you need to know to cultivate and care for this showy ornamental in your summer garden.

In this article, we talk about recognizing, managing, and preventing daylily rust, a condition that may present itself when growing conditions are less than ideal.

Here’s what’s in store:

Let’s get started.

What Is Daylily Rust?

Rust is a fungal disease that spreads mostly by air and water via microscopic spores.

There are 168 genera of parasitic fungi that can cause rust. Over half of these belong to the Puccinia genus, and each species has a favorite host plant.

For example, the pathogen that spreads canna rust is P. thaliae.

In the case of the daylily, the rust-spreading parasite is P. hemerocallidis.

Rust gains a foothold when favorable weather conditions – prolonged damp conditions and high relative humidity – and gardening practices (or a lack thereof) come together to create a sort of perfect storm.

Ideal Growing Conditions

Hemerocallis thrives in a full sun to part shade location.

It prefers organically-rich loam, but will tolerate average to poor quality soil, provided it has a slightly acidic pH of 5.5 to 6.5 and drains well.

Plants require about an inch of water per week and thrive in soil that is kept evenly moist, but never waterlogged.

Deadheading plants throughout the growing season encourages reblooming. Dividing clumps every few years keeps them healthy and vigorous.

When these conditions are not met, plants can become stressed. A lack of proper airflow, an overabundance of water, to little sunshine, and maybe a bit of neglect on the part of the gardener, can serve as invitations to the fungi that cause this disease.

So what should you look out for? And what’s a gardener to do?

Signs of Trouble

The daylily is a dynamic bloomer with a high tolerance for heat and humidity.

However, if there is an excess of moisture or humidity in the garden, it becomes vulnerable to pathogens that thrive in damp conditions.

Unless you inspect the undersides of your daylily leaves often, you may not know you have rust until the tops of the leaves become discolored and disfigured.

However, the trouble may start well before that.

The first sign may be a slight yellowing, called “chlorosis,” on one or two leaves. This can happen as a result of either too little or too much water, and may be accompanied by wilting.

If it’s been extremely hot and dry, it’s more likely that the plants are dehydrated, in which case they have little appeal to P. hemerocallidis.

On the other hand, if it’s been especially rainy and humid, or if you have overwatered, the yellowing foliage is most likely to be from oversaturation.

This creates a climate conducive to fungal spore germination.

The ideal points of entry for parasitic fungi are the pores, or stomata, on the undersides of the leaves. These are the openings that allow for the exchange of gas and air between the plant tissue and the environment

When P. hemerocallidis spores land on moist leaf tissue, they begin feeding on the plant tissue and may go unnoticed until the damage is extensive.

Within a week to 10 days of feeding, a telltale trail of yellowish-brown spots develops that, upon close observation, are actually raised blisters, or pustules.

As the spots increase in number, they combine to form rusty, reddish-brown patches that leave a powdery coating on the hand when touched.

Next, the underside damage penetrates the leaf tissue, appearing as brown blotches on the leaf surface. This dead, or necrotic, plant tissue becomes dry and flaky, breaks away, and leaves holes in the foliage.

Over time, stem and leaf damage cripples the plant, causing it to drop its foliage, wilt, and die.

Affected plants must be uprooted and disposed of in the trash. Do not place them on the compost pile. You can also burn them, but even the ashes may still contain fungal spores, so put them in the trash, too.

One daylily with rust puts all the others in your garden at risk of contracting the disease.

Treatment Options

At the beginning of a fungal outbreak, you may attempt to salvage affected plants and protect neighboring ones with an application of a targeted fungicide formulated to treat rust.

Studies have shown that the best chemical fungicide for addressing P. hemerocallidis is tebuconazole.

This is a systemic chemical product, which means it is absorbed and penetrates plant tissues. This product must be mixed with water and sprayed onto the surface and underside of foliage, per package instructions, to control fungal spread. It may also be used preventively.

Rust can be difficult to manage, as it has the potential to become resistant to fungicides.

Also, even if you do treat plants, the spores may still be lurking in dead plant material and on the ground where they can overwinter, only to reappear the following spring.

With that said, let’s turn our attention from treatment after the fact to prevention.

Preventative Strategies

Rather than dealing with rust that’s already underway, why not do everything possible to keep it from gaining a foothold in the first place?

Here are 11 tips for making rust unwelcome in your garden:

1. Choose daylily varieties that are disease-resistant.

2. Plant in a sunny location, with at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. This will help moisture to evaporate from the leaves.

3. An inch of water per week is plenty. Water at the soil level to keep foliage dry or consider installing a drip irrigation system to maintain good drainage, and keep water off the leaves.

4. Apply a layer of mulch around plants to inhibit weeds, which may harbor fungal spores.

5. Space plants appropriately, 12 to 18 inches apart, to ensure adequate airflow and avoid increasing relative humidity between plants.

6. Deadhead and prune leggy stems to open plants up to airflow, avoid increasing relative humidity, and allow fungicides to penetrate (if needed).

7. Sanitize garden tools with a 10 percent bleach solution to prevent the spread of disease from plant to plant.

8. Apply a well-balanced fertilizer in spring to promote a strong flush of growth.

9. Divide plants every two to three years to maintain vigor and increase airflow.

10. Avoid planting daylilies in an area that has had a rust outbreak in the past.

11. And finally, consider applying fungicides preventatively, per package instructions, to avoid a rust outbreak.

By Guest Author John Hammond

Fruit trees are a crucial part of many agricultural systems, providing a variety of fruits and nuts that are consumed around the world. While it is possible to grow fruit trees from seed, many growers opt to graft trees instead. 

Grafting involves attaching a piece of one plant to another, allowing the two to grow together as one. This technique has been used for centuries to propagate and hybridize fruit trees, resulting in a wide range of unique and desirable varieties. 

In this context, this article will explore the reasons why many fruit trees must be grafted, the benefits of grafting, challenges associated with growing fruit trees from seed, the types of fruit trees commonly grafted, and how grafting allows growers to create new and unique varieties of fruit trees.

Why are some fruit trees grafted instead of planted by seed?

As a seasoned backyard fruit tree grower, I have found that grafting is a valuable technique that allows me to create a wide range of unique and desirable fruit tree varieties. While it is possible to grow fruit trees from seed, there are several reasons why grafting is a more common practice among growers.

First and foremost, grafting allows for the propagation of fruit trees that are true to type. This means that the fruit produced by the grafted tree will be identical to that of the parent tree. When fruit trees are grown from seed, there is a great deal of genetic variation, which can lead to inconsistent fruit quality and other undesirable traits. By grafting, growers can ensure that their trees will produce high-quality fruit that is consistent from year to year.

Another reason why fruit trees are commonly grafted is that it allows for the creation of hybridized varieties. By grafting a piece of one plant onto another, growers can combine desirable traits from two different trees to create a new variety that possesses the best qualities of both. For example, a grower might graft a piece of a peach tree onto a plum tree, resulting in a tree that produces peaches with the sweetness of a peach and the hardiness of a plum.

Grafting also allows growers to control the size and shape of their fruit trees. By grafting onto a rootstock that is known to produce trees of a certain size or shape, growers can ensure that their trees will fit into a specific space and be easier to manage. This can be particularly useful for backyard growers who have limited space and want to maximize their yield.

In addition, grafting can help to improve the hardiness and disease resistance of fruit trees. By grafting onto a rootstock that is resistant to certain diseases or pests, growers can help to protect their trees and ensure that they remain healthy and productive for many years to come.

Finally, grafting is often a faster and more reliable way to propagate fruit trees than growing from seed. When growing from seed, it can take several years for a tree to reach maturity and begin producing fruit. In contrast, grafted trees can begin producing fruit in as little as one or two years, making them a more practical option for commercial growers who need to maximize their yield.

How Does Grafting Benefit the Growth and Development of Fruit Trees?

Grafting can greatly benefit the growth and development of fruit trees. When done correctly, grafting can help to improve tree health, increase fruit yield, and even create new and unique varieties of fruit.

One of the primary benefits of grafting is the ability to improve tree health. When a fruit tree is grafted, the scion (or cutting) from a healthy tree is attached to the rootstock (or lower part) of a separate tree. This allows the tree to benefit from the strong root system of the rootstock, while also receiving the desired traits and characteristics of the scion. For example, if you want a tree that produces fruit early in the season, you may want to choose a rootstock that promotes early fruiting. Alternatively, if you want a tree that is resistant to certain diseases or pests, you may want to choose a rootstock that is known for its disease resistance. The result is a tree that is both strong and productive, with fewer health problems than it would have had if grown from seed.

Another benefit of grafting is increased fruit yield. When fruit trees are grafted, they often produce more fruit than they would if grown from seed. This is because the scion is chosen for its desirable fruit characteristics, such as size, flavor, and color. By grafting this scion onto a rootstock with a strong root system, the tree is able to produce more fruit of higher quality.

Grafting also allows growers to create new and unique varieties of fruit trees. This is because grafting allows for the hybridization of different fruit tree varieties, resulting in trees that exhibit the best traits of both parents. For example, you could graft a scion from a peach tree onto a rootstock from a plum tree, creating a hybrid tree that produces fruit with a unique flavor and texture.

Growing fruit trees from seed vs grafting

I know first-hand the challenges that come with growing fruit trees from seed. While it is possible to grow fruit trees from seed, it can be a slow and unpredictable process. Additionally, there is a risk that the resulting tree will not produce fruit that is of the same quality or characteristics as the parent plant. That’s why grafting is such a valuable technique for fruit tree growers.

One of the biggest challenges associated with growing fruit trees from seed is the long waiting period before the tree produces fruit. It can take several years for a fruit tree grown from seed to reach maturity and begin producing fruit. During this time, the grower must invest a significant amount of time and resources into caring for the tree, with no guarantee of a successful outcome. With grafting, however, the grower can use a scion from a mature tree that is already producing high-quality fruit, and attach it to a rootstock that will allow the tree to grow and produce fruit much more quickly.

Another challenge with growing fruit trees from seed is the potential for genetic variation. When a fruit tree is grown from seed, it may not inherit all of the desirable traits of the parent plant, such as disease resistance or fruit quality. This can result in a tree that produces fruit of lower quality or quantity, or a tree that is more susceptible to pests or diseases. Grafting allows growers to bypass these genetic variations and ensure that the resulting tree will produce high-quality fruit that is consistent with the parent plant.

Furthermore, certain fruit trees may not grow well in certain regions due to climate or soil conditions. By grafting, growers can attach a scion from a tree that is well-suited to a particular region onto a rootstock that is also well-suited to that region. This allows the tree to thrive and produce high-quality fruit, despite the challenging growing conditions.

Grafting can also help to overcome challenges associated with disease and pest resistance. By using a rootstock that is resistant to a particular disease or pest, growers can ensure that the resulting tree will also be resistant. This is particularly important for fruit trees that are prone to diseases such as apple scab or pests such as borers, which can severely damage or kill a tree.

Why are Certain Types of Fruit Trees More Commonly Grafted Than Others?

I have had the opportunity to experiment with a variety of grafting techniques over the years. From my experience, certain types of fruit trees are more commonly grafted than others, and for good reason.

One of the most commonly grafted fruit trees is the apple tree. This is because apple trees do not produce true-to-type offspring from seed, meaning that the apple tree grown from a seed may not have the same desirable characteristics as its parent tree. This is where grafting comes in handy, allowing growers to create new apple tree varieties by grafting a scion from a desirable apple tree onto a rootstock. Grafting also allows growers to combine different apple varieties to create hybridized trees with desirable characteristics, such as disease resistance or improved flavor profiles. This has led to varieties like the Honeycrisp apple, which many people around the world enjoy today. 

Another fruit tree commonly grafted is the citrus tree. Citrus trees are often grafted onto rootstocks because they are susceptible to soil-borne diseases like citrus greening. By grafting a citrus scion onto a disease-resistant rootstock, growers can ensure that their citrus tree will thrive and produce high-quality fruit. Additionally, grafting allows growers to create new citrus varieties that have improved flavor, texture, and disease resistance.

Stone fruit trees, such as peaches and plums, are also commonly grafted. This is because stone fruit trees are susceptible to soil-borne diseases, which can cause significant damage to the tree and reduce fruit yields. Grafting allows growers to create stone fruit trees that are more resistant to these diseases, resulting in healthier trees and more abundant fruit production.

In addition to disease resistance, grafting can also improve the overall growth and development of fruit trees. For example, some rootstocks are known to improve the vigor and yield of grafted fruit trees, while others can help to control the size of the tree. By selecting the right rootstock for a particular fruit tree variety, growers can ensure that their trees grow and develop properly, resulting in better fruit production and healthier trees.

What Are Some Examples of Grafted Trees?

One example of a hybrid fruit tree created through grafting is the Pluot. This delectable fruit is a cross between a plum and an apricot, and it was first created by the horticulturist Floyd Zaiger in the 1980s. The Pluot is a prime example of how grafting allows growers to create something entirely new and unique, as it combines the sweetness of a plum with the tanginess of an apricot. Today, there are many different varieties of Pluots available, each with its own unique flavor and texture.

Another example of a hybrid fruit tree created through grafting is the Nectaplum. As its name suggests, this fruit is a cross between a nectarine and a plum, and it was first created by Zaiger in the 1990s. The Nectaplum combines the juicy sweetness of a nectarine with the firm texture of a plum, resulting in a truly unique and delicious fruit.

Grafting also allows growers to create trees that are resistant to disease and pests. For example, the Liberty Apple was created through grafting as a response to the apple scab disease, which was devastating apple crops throughout the eastern United States in the early 20th century. The Liberty Apple is a cross between the Macoun apple and the Purdue apple, and it is resistant to apple scab and other common apple diseases.

One more example of a hybrid fruit tree created through grafting is the Pluerry. This fruit is a cross between a plum and a cherry, and it was created by Zaiger in the early 2000s. The Pluerry combines the sweetness of a plum with the tartness of a cherry, resulting in a fruit that is both unique and delicious.

In addition to creating new and unique fruit varieties, grafting also allows growers to preserve rare and heirloom fruit trees. For example, the Gravenstein apple is a variety that has been grown in California for over 200 years. However, the tree is susceptible to disease and pests, and it is no longer commercially viable. Through grafting, growers are able to preserve the Gravenstein apple tree, ensuring that this historic variety remains available for future generations to enjoy.

How Do You Graft a Fruit Tree?

Step 1: Choose your scion

The scion is the part of the fruit tree that will produce the desired fruit. It’s important to choose a healthy scion that is free of any diseases or pests. The best time to take a scion is in the winter when the tree is dormant. Cut the scion from the tree with a sharp, clean knife, making sure to take a piece that is about 6 inches long and has several buds.

Step 2: Choose your rootstock

The rootstock is the part of the fruit tree that will provide the root system and support for the scion. The rootstock should be chosen based on the desired traits of the tree, such as disease resistance, size, and vigor. It’s important to choose a rootstock that is compatible with the scion. The best time to graft a fruit tree is in the spring when the tree is starting to come out of dormancy.

Step 3: Prepare the scion and rootstock

Using a clean, sharp knife, make a diagonal cut at the bottom of the scion and the top of the rootstock. The cuts should be made at an angle of about 45 degrees. The goal is to create a surface area where the two pieces will connect and grow together. Make sure the cuts are clean and straight, as any ragged edges can inhibit growth.

Step 4: Connect the scion to the rootstock

Align the cuts of the scion and rootstock together and bind them tightly with grafting tape or rubber bands. The goal is to create a tight seal between the two pieces. The scion and rootstock should be aligned so that the cambium layer of each piece lines up. The cambium layer is the thin layer of tissue just below the bark where the exchange of nutrients occurs.

Step 5: Cover the graft

Cover the graft with grafting wax or sealant to protect the exposed areas from moisture and insects. The wax or sealant will also help to hold the two pieces together as they grow together.

Step 6: Care for the grafted tree

The grafted tree should be placed in a warm, humid location out of direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. After a few weeks, the graft should have taken and the scion should begin to produce new growth. Once the new growth is about 6 inches long, cut off the top of the rootstock just above the graft to encourage the scion to become the main stem of the tree.

And there you have it, my simple yet effective method for grafting fruit trees. With a little practice and patience, you too can start growing your own unique and desirable varieties of fruit trees. Remember to choose healthy scions and rootstocks, make clean cuts, and seal the graft tightly with grafting tape or rubber bands. With these tips, your grafted fruit tree will thrive and produce delicious fruits for years to come.

Author’s Bio: John Hammond is a seasoned backyard fruit tree grower with a degree in horticulture. Hailing from the Midwest, John’s love for gardening and cultivating fruit trees began at a young age. He is an expert in his field and his advice is highly sought-after by fellow gardeners and fruit tree enthusiasts. John continues to push the boundaries of fruit tree cultivation and has recently started experimenting with new grafting techniques.

Tomatoes can be finicky when it comes to watering. Too much or too little can both lead to wilting leaves, damaged fruit, and disease.

We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

But knowing how to irrigate properly can make a huge difference for the health of your plants!

Read on to learn all about how and when to water tomatoes.

How Much Water Do Tomatoes Need?

How much moisture tomatoes need changes over the course of the growing season.

New transplants require consistent, frequent moisture. They should receive about a quart a day for the first two weeks, more if there is a lot of sun and wind.

After the first two weeks, once roots have become established, it’s best to provide one to three inches per week, watering every two to three days.

This translates to roughly somewhere between a half gallon and two gallons of water per square foot of soil per week.

Once fruits start to mature and turn red, cut back the amount a bit to reduce the likelihood of splitting or cracking, but still maintain frequency so they don’t dry out.

Frequent Deep Watering

While quantity is certainly important, the method of watering matters just as much, if not more.

In order to cultivate strong, healthy, high-yielding plants, it is important to use a technique known as deep watering.

Essentially, you want to provide slow, consistent moisture to the roots, ideally using drip irrigation or a soaker hose. This method helps to build strong root systems and prevents disease spread.

Avoid overhead watering as splashing droplets from a sprinkler or hose can quickly spread blight or other common tomato diseases from plant to plant.

If you must use a hose, be sure to spray the soil at the base of the plant rather than the leaves.

Water slowly for 30 minutes to a couple of hours at a time when using drip irrigation or a soaker hose system, allowing moisture to penetrate deeply into the soil.

Do this daily for the first two weeks until transplants are well established. After this time, reduce frequency to two to three times per week, depending on rainfall and soil conditions.

Be consistent, as sporadic watering can lead to blossom-end rot or other problems. You can learn more about blossom-end rot and how to avoid it here.

Other Factors to Consider

While the recommendations above provide a good general baseline, you may need to adjust slightly to account for other factors such as soil type and weather.

Soil Type

It is important to consider the type of soil in your garden. Soil type can impact drainage, which will in turn affect how much moisture plants will require.

For particularly sandy soils, which drain quickly, you should double the amount of recommended water provided during each stage of growth.

Clay, on the other hand, absorbs less easily, causing moisture to pool or run off. To avoid these problems, be sure to water slowly, using drip irrigation or a soaker hose whenever possible.

In both of these cases, mixing in some organic matter can help to improve drainage. Adding a few inches of straw mulch is another great way to improve moisture retention.

Weather and Climate

Pay attention to heat and rainfall. If you experience an extended period of drought, plants may need three inches a week rather than one or two. Conversely, decrease to account for rainfall.

You can try using a rain gauge to help keep track of precipitation. Learn more about using a rain gauge in the garden here.

If you don’t have a rain gauge, you can use your finger to check soil moisture.

While it may not be quite as accurate as a measurement of precipitation in inches, if the soil feels dry an inch below the surface, this is a good indication that you need to water.

Container-Grown Tomatoes

Container-grown tomatoes need more frequent watering than garden-grown ones.

Water container plants once or twice a day until you notice moisture seeping out of the drainage holes.

Plants growing in raised beds should be watered daily as well. Check pots frequently as soil can dry out quickly, always being sure to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

And just as with garden-grown plants, be sure to water the soil, not the leaves. You can even set up a drip irrigation system over containers.

This works best if you have several pots or if you are growing in a raised bed.

Irrigation Tips

• Always wet the soil at the base of the stem, using drip irrigation or a soaker hose if available.
• A few inches of straw mulch can improve moisture retention and regulate soil temperature.
• Observation is important. If the soil looks cracked and feels dry, or you notice wilting, brittle leaves, it’s time to turn on that soaker hose!
• Also monitor for signs of overwatering. Cut back if you notice cracked or tasteless fruit, a foul smell around plants, or yellowing, curling leaves.

When in Doubt, Keep It Simple

While it may seem like there is a lot to watering tomatoes, the truth is it isn’t too challenging.

As long as you can remember to provide consistent moisture to the roots a few times a week, you should be good to go. And your tomatoes will definitely thank you for it!

What are your tips for watering tomato plants? Feel free to share in the comments section below!

Check out these articles for more tips on growing strong and vigorous tomatoes next:

It has specific medicinal properties that are unique from those of the other parts of the plant.

What Is Nettle Root?

Most gardeners are familiar with stinging nettle (Urtica dioica), an herbaceous perennial known for the infamous stinging hairs that can be found all along its stems and the undersides of its leaves.

Nettle grows and spreads by stolons, which form a network of yellow, lateral, creeping rhizomes.

This structure is vigorous, and it spreads like crazy!

The rhizomes are double-layered, consisting of an upper layer of young runners and a deeper layer of thicker, more fibrous roots.

These robust roots are easy to harvest and store, and they offer a number of medicinal uses.

Uses for Nettle Root

Stinging nettle root extract is often used in over-the-counter supplements and herbal remedies, particularly those labeled for “men’s health.”

The root extract contains beta-sitosterol, a plant phenol that has been shown to reduce urinary tract complications associated with benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH) – the enlargement of the prostate.

A double-blind study conducted by M. R. Safarinejad, from the Department of Urology, Urology Nephrology Research Center at Shaheed Beheshti University of Medical Sciences in Tehran, concluded that extract of U. dioica had beneficial effects in the treatment of urinary symptoms of BPH. A modest reduction in prostate size was also noted.

According to experts at the Milton S. Hershey Medical Center at Penn State, Hershey, some studies have indicated that the effectiveness of nettle root extract may be comparable to finasteride, a medication often prescribed for BPH.

Finasteride is a 5-alpha-reductase inhibitor, which slows the conversion of testosterone to DHT (dihydrotestosterone), a metabolite that can cause inflammation of the prostate and contribute to hair loss.

According to a study by R. W. Hartman, published in the journal for Phytomedicine, U. dioica extract inhibited 5-alpha reductase activity in high concentrations. It was shown to be more effective when combined with an extract of Pygeum africanum, the African cherry tree.

The American Botanical Council concludes that “the approved modern therapeutic applications for stinging nettle herb, leaf, and root are supportable based on their history of clinical use in well-established systems of traditional medicine, on well documented phytochemical investigations, on pharmacological studies in animals, and on human clinical studies.”

To learn more about growing, using, and harvesting stinging nettle leaves, check out this comprehensive guide.

When to Harvest

Plan to harvest in late fall or early spring. This is the time when energy from the plant is directed toward root production rather than to the leaves, seeds, or flowers.

In warmer climates where the ground doesn’t freeze, you may be able to harvest in the winter as well.

If you are harvesting in the spring, it is best to dig up roots before new shoots begin to sprout out of the rhizomes and make their way up to the surface of the soil. Once this happens, the plants’ energy will be directed toward above-ground growth instead of root development.

How to Harvest

Nettle rhizomes are typically located about six inches deep underground, in two layers.

The upper layer is comprised of younger runners, which may be watery and narrow, and light yellow or whitish in color.

They will have hair along the nodes, and this is where next year’s shoots will sprout. Before winter sets in, the runners will produce tiny green shoots that will overwinter underground, gearing up to sprout in the spring.

Those in the deeper layer are thicker in diameter. They are a darker yellow and will be more dry.

In heavier soils, they may be shallower, while sandier soils may lead to deeper growth. The thickness may vary from something thinner than a pencil to those that are about the size of a quarter around.

When you are ready to harvest, put on your long sleeves and gloves, grab a basket or bag, and gather your digging tool of choice.

First, cut off the tops of the plants as you harvest them, to avoid getting stung and to keep any plant debris out of your harvested crop.

You can throw these off to the side for now, but move them back to the disturbed area when you are done to allow them to decompose back into the soil. This will help improve the nutrient content and enhance future soil growth.

Tip: You can also separate and save the fibrous stems to make rope!

Next, carefully dig a wide circle around the base of your plants, leaving a few feet of wiggle room around the edges to avoid causing damage. As you dig down towards the lower level, you can gently pull up the network of runners that are revealed.

Gently tug up the runners, and use a hand tool to help you retrieve the deeper layer.

Bag up your harvest, making sure the area you disturbed is restored and covered back up with vegetation, leaf litter, organic matter, or mulch to protect the soil and help it to revive more quickly.

Remember, always leave some behind to re-sprout and re-colonize if you want to keep your crop going.

As a general rule, try to only dig up a third of roots at one time.

It will take about three years for a harvested area to reach maturity again, but if you only take a third at a time, you should still have some that’s ready to enjoy every year!

Processing and Preserving

Start by giving the rhizomes a good shake to knock off as much dirt as you can. Using pruning shears or scissors, clip off any leaves or stems that remain attached, and cut any longer pieces down to a manageable size.

Next, it’s time to wash them. I like to use a three-bin system.

Set up three large tubs of water, and place the roots in the first tub. Gently rub and swoosh them around to clean them, then move them over to the next bin.

Clean them again, then move them once more. By the time you finish the third scrub, they should be totally clean and free of dirt.

Lay the freshly washed roots out in the shade or in a dry room on a cloth to drain and dry on the surface, turning them every so often to aid the process.

Now they should be ready to use fresh, or prepped to dry.

Drying

Cut them into very small pieces with pruners or scissors. The thicker the pieces are, the smaller you should cut them.

Pieces that are roughly equal in size will dry at the same rate, and this makes them easier to process.

They should dry in about 24 hours in a dehydrator set to 100°F.

To air dry, lay the prepped pieces out on a mesh screen or rack in a dark and dry location. They should dry in approximately five to seven days.

Four pounds of fresh roots will yield about one pound dried.

Get more info on drying herbs in our complete guide.

Tincturing

To make a medicinal tincture, place finely chopped fresh or dried roots in a glass jar and cover with a strong alcohol, such as 100-proof vodka. Seal tightly with a lid and place in a dark location, such as a pantry.

Shake daily for about a month to agitate, and then strain.

The root can also be powdered, brewed as a tea, or even applied topically as a cream or rinse.

It is available for purchase in pill form in many health food stores.

In this article, you will learn all you need to grow and care for the alpine aster.

Cultivation and History

Best suited to USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 7, A. alpinus thrives in full sun with average to poor, well-draining soil.

Bloom time is from late spring to early summer, and sometimes mid-summer. Mature dimensions average eight to 12 inches tall and wide.

This species is native to the mountains of China and Europe, including the Alps.

A few subspecies may be found in the wild in Canada and parts of the western United States and Alaska, including the Plumas alpine aster, Oreostemma elatum (Greene) Greene, and Vierhapper’s aster, A. alpinus var. vierhapperi (Onno) Cronquist.

Unlike many aster species that produce clusters of flowers, the blossoms of A. alpinus are borne on individual stems, like daisies.

Propagation

This species grows from seeds, cuttings, and divided plants.

Seeds

Start seeds indoors to give them a jump start on the growing season. Scatter them on moist soil and tamp lightly, barely covering them.

Expect germination in two to four weeks. Transplant seedlings to their permanent location after the last average spring frost date.

Note that seed from a native species produces a replica of its parent plant.

However, seed harvested from a cultivar that has been selectively bred for particular traits, or crossed with another type to create a hybrid, does not produce true from seed, and may even be sterile.

Cuttings

Once plants get underway in spring, take cuttings from stems with new leaf growth. Dip the ends into rooting hormone and place into potting medium.

Once roots are established and the cuttings begin to grow, you may plant them permanently.

Propagation by cuttings is one way to reproduce the traits of a cultivar or hybrid.

Division

Divide your plants in early spring, once you see them coming up again. Slice down into a clump with a sharp spade and remove a portion of the plant with roots attached. Transplant the divided section(s) immediately.

Dividing plants ensures the replication of parent plant characteristics.

Be sure to maintain even moisture during the propagation stage of growing.

Read more about dividing perennial asters here.

To replicate the exact traits of a cultivated variety, propagate by cuttings or division only.

Please note: If you are growing a native species, seeds will normally replicate the characteristics of the parent plant. However, if you harvest seeds from varieties that have been cross-bred, called hybrids, the seeds won’t replicate the parent plant, but will revert back to one of the crossed species.

How to Grow

To successfully cultivate A. alpinus, choose a location that receives full sun. Poor to average soil is adequate, as this plant does not crave nutrients.

The soil should drain well and have a pH of about 6.0 to 7.5. Asters don’t mind a little acidity.

Space your seeds, seedlings, cuttings, or divisions at least 12 inches apart to accommodate mature dimensions and allow for adequate air flow.

As with the propagation phase, maintain even moisture until your transplants become established. At that point, watering needs are minimal and plants exhibit a high degree of drought tolerance.

Unlike some native species, this type is not likely to become a weedy menace. While it does self-sow, it is a slow grower that is not considered to be invasive.

You may also grow this type in well-draining containers, either alone or with companions of a similar culture. Some suggestions are:

Containers should exceed plant(s)’ mature dimensions by at least two inches in diameter to allow room for watering and airflow.

Remember that containers dry out more quickly than ground soil, so although these plants are drought tolerant, water before they completely dry out.

Growing Tips:

• Poor soil is preferred
• No fertilizer is needed
• 12-inch spacing promotes good airflow
• Water needs are low once established, but higher for container plants

Care and Maintenance

As we’ve said, once established, A. alpinus is relatively self-sufficient. However, while it is drought tolerant, it’s not a huge fan of humidity.

This is where adequate drainage and proper spacing come into play, as ways to minimize the potential for fungal growth from excess moisture and inadequate air flow.

Another good way to maintain ample circulation is to divide mature plants every few years. An added benefit is the revitalization of the main plant.

You may also want to deadhead spent blossoms to minimize self-sowing, particularly with cultivars and hybrids that may be fertile and not produce true to seed.

And finally, while this plant is drought tolerant, that doesn’t mean it won’t appreciate a drink in a dry spell, especially if it’s in a container.

Read more about managing perennial asters here.

Cultivars to Select

When shopping for plants or seeds, you’re likely to find listings for alpine aster, A. alpinus, or dwarf aster. Following is usually a generic color such as “pink,” “purple,” “white,” or “mixed.”

However, there are also named cultivars available. Cornell University’s Home Gardening Flower Growing Guides cites six noteworthy selections:

Beechwood

This cultivar has lavender petals resembling those of the native New England aster.

However, flower heads are borne on individual stems instead of in bushy clusters, and heights are in inches instead of feet, for a low-profile, far less aggressive aster.

Dark Beauty

This purple cultivar also resembles the New England species, only this time, in a dark shade of purple. The early bloom time, low profile, and single blossom per stem remind us it’s an alpine.

And, although it self-sows like other aster species, it grows slowly and is not considered to be invasive.

Goliath

Another you may come across is ‘Goliath,’ which has lavender flowers that shade toward blue. This is a slightly larger plant that exceeds the typical eight to 12 inches, reaching a height of approximately 15.

In addition, this cultivar bears especially large blossoms that measure up to three inches across, more like those of a China aster than a typical one-inch A. alpinus blossom.

Happy End

Each purple-hued cultivar is slightly different, and this one’s claim to fame is its distinctive pink-purple double-rayed flower head.

And the fuller look is not its only key feature. The growth habit of this kind is especially compact.

Wargrave

If pink is more your color, you may like this one best.

Pink rays display a blush of purple for greater depth.

White Beauty

The flower heads of this cultivar are snowy white, an aster color with which you may not be familiar. White flowers flawlessly integrate a variety of pastel shades and can also soften the intensity of bold-color blooms.

And with their daisy-like appearance, they make a cheerful addition to the spring to summer garden, and the anticipation of warmer days to come.

Managing Pests and Disease

Asters in general are not prone to problems. However, if too much moisture builds up due too poor drainage, they may fall victim to nibbling nematodes, slugs and snails.

An application of food grade diatomaceous earth is an excellent way to combat root-feeding pests.

In addition, too much moisture plus inadequate air circulation due to poor spacing may make plants vulnerable to fungal conditions like powdery mildew, rust, fusarium or verticillium wilt, or white smut.

A biological fungicide may be useful against the ravages of fungal disease. It may also keep the dreaded aster leafhopper at bay, an insect that transmits a fatal condition called aster yellows.

As for wildlife, you may find it necessary to take measures to prevent damage from deer and rabbits that find the tender shoots tasty.

Your best defense is a good offense. To maintain optimal health:

1. Start with good quality plants or seeds.
2. Space adequately to allow for optimal airflow between plants.
3. Provide appropriate drainage to prevent excess moisture build up.
4. Keep weeds and debris at bay to minimize insect infestation.

Best Uses

Low-profile, early-blooming A. alpinus has low water and maintenance needs, making it suitable for xeriscaping. It does equally well in rock gardens, containers, and fronts of borders, provided the soil drains well.

It’s a welcome addition to the garden because it attracts beneficial wildlife like bees, birds, and butterflies.

But if you thought raspberries and blackberries were juicy, meet the boysenberry. This plump, sweet-tart fruit takes juiciness to a whole new level.

It’s actually so juicy and thin-skinned that farmers can’t really send it off to grocery stores. It just doesn’t ship well. Most varieties reach maturity in midsummer, but begin to go bad just three days after picking.

This means it’s an ideal bush to plant in your garden if you want to enjoy the freshly picked berries.

Packed with nutrition, these delicious berries also boast a number of healthy nutrients, from gut-healthy fiber to vitamins and polyphenols.

Let’s find out a bit more about the benefits of boysenberries.

A Boysenberry Primer

Developed in the 1920s by Rudolph Boysen, our featured fruit (Rubus ursinus × R. idaeus) is a cross between a loganberry, dewberry, blackberry, and raspberry.

And if you’ve ever visited southern California’s theme parks, you’ll know that no mention of boysenberries is complete without talking about Knott’s Berry Farm.

Because even though ol’ Rudolph Boysen hybridized four berries to produce the boysenberry, his plants got kind of… wilty. He gave the dying bushes to farmer Walter Knott in 1938, and Knott succeeded in bringing them back to life.

They then became bestsellers at the Knotts’ fruit stand in Buena Park, California. Eventually a restaurant and then a theme park replaced the farmstand, but fresh boysenberry pie remains a featured menu item there.

All of the modern boysenberry cultivars can be traced back to Knott’s Berry Farm, according to their website.

And the park even hosts a boysenberry festival every spring. If you ever go, you can enjoy all sorts of boysenberry dishes, from mashed potatoes and tamales to lemonade, beer, and wine.

Pretty amazing, don’t you think? My mouth waters just thinking about visiting this festival, which is definitely on my bucket list.

Due to the berry’s short shelf life, it’s only sold fresh in the areas that produce it, notably parts of California, Oregon, and New Zealand.

Most are processed into jams, jellies, frozen pies, and syrups, all products with a longer shelf life than delicate fresh fruit. They are also often sold frozen.

But if you want to enjoy them fresh, you can always grow them yourself. Learn more about how to plant and grow boysenberries in our guide.

Potential Health Benefits

This tasty fruit isn’t just fun to eat, though. It can also be beneficial to your health.

One cup of the fruit has 7 grams of dietary fiber, which we all know helps prevent constipation and can help the good bacteria to grow and diversify in our gut.

The folate and other B vitamins it contains help keep the brain sharp, and aid in the process of converting the food we eat to usable energy.

Plus, folate is vital to pregnant women for the healthy development of a baby’s spinal cord and brain. So if you’re trying to get pregnant, now’s the time to start eating boysenberries.

In addition, a cup of berries has around 200 milligrams of potassium and just 1.3 milligrams of sodium. This combination can increase overall heart health and help reduce the risk of hypertension (aka high blood pressure).

A study in hypertensive rats showed that ingesting high doses of juice of this berry significantly helped to lower blood pressure.

Boysenberries also contribute to bone health. One cup contains 13% of the daily recommended value of vitamin K for adult women, which helps to support bone metabolism. Low vitamin K levels in the body have been associated with osteoporosis.

And of course, like many berries, they contain lots of vitamin C, which we all know can support the immune system and help us to fight infections.

But wait! It gets better.

The high concentration of polyphenols (antioxidant-packed micronutrients) that they contain has been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties. Reduced inflammation may help to prevent chronic diseases including cardiovascular disease.

And if you’ve ever had a doctor tell you your triglyceride levels – a type of fat that can lead to heart disease – are high, preliminary research shows that boysenberries might help lower them.

Even though I’m relatively young, I’ve been warned about my triglycerides a few times since the birth of my son. I’ve since increased my vegetable and fruit intake… and planted a boysenberry bush to help, too.

But the benefits of this fruit don’t stop there. They’re also packed with anthocyanins, pigmented flavonoids with antioxidant properties that give them their vibrant color.

Anthocyanins have been shown to help strengthen vision, reduce cancer cell multiplication, and help prevent tumor formation.

And last but not least, the relatively high level of manganese in one cup of berries is 35% of the daily value recommended for adults. Manganese plays a role in many bodily functions including carbohydrate metabolism, bone formation, and immune responses.

Clearly, this fruit is one to add to your diet. The best way to reap the health benefits of this superberry is to eat it fresh or frozen (without added sugar!), whether that’s tossed into a smoothie, enjoyed with your favorite nuts, or sprinkled on yogurt.

Garden Use

This brambly bush has pretty white flowers and grows to about four to six feet tall and wide, so give it lots of space.

A perfect addition to your herb garden, this plant likes to grow near yarrow, lavender, and rosemary.

Plus, these herbs attract bees, and while they don’t technically need pollinators to produce fruit, bees and butterflies can help to increase yields. Birds are attracted to the berries, if you can bear to share your harvest! Otherwise, use bird netting to protect your plants.

Learn how to harvest homegrown boysenberries in this guide.

Like other brambles with canes, boysenberries need a fence, trellis, or stake for support. Consider planting them alongside a fence or house wall for a lovely thicketed look.

Thorny varieties are good defensive plants and help to deter intruders.

Culinary Use

You can pretty much use boysenberries in any recipe that calls for blackberries or raspberries, like these tart fruit scones from our sister site, Foodal.

Or why not try this delicious cocktail recipe, also from Foodal.

If you’re feeling adventurous, try this cream cheese, pineapple, and raspberry quesadilla also from Foodal – but use boysenberries instead of raspberries.

You can add these versatile orbs of juicy delight to any smoothie that calls for berries, too, or to any berry pie filling.

Boysenberries and You: A Match Made in Heaven

If you think blackberries are a little too bitter, try boysenberries instead.

It’s sweeter, yet somehow bolder in flavor than ye olde blackberry. And since it’s bigger, it’s easier to eat a cupful (or two, or ten…) and reap some fantastic health benefits.

For me, the best benefit will be when I get to pluck my berries off my bush and put them in a pie. And maybe that berry-cream cheese quesadilla.

Because I’m feeling adventurous.

What about you? Have you ever tried this berry that started a whole theme park? Let us know in the comments below.

In the meantime, check out these berry helpful articles:

You can learn more about how to plant and care for zucchini in our growing guide.

Here’s the lineup:

Keep in mind that different pathogens can have more of an impact in different climates and growing areas. What may ravage your garden in the West may not bother plants at all on the East Coast. On top of that, the time of year that a disease is active varies from region to region.

Since so many diseases have similar symptoms, it can help to check with your local extension office to find out what typically plagues plants in your neighborhood. You can also chat with neighbors to see what problems they’ve dealt with.

Keep an eye on your garden from year to year and make a note of planting dates, time to harvest, and any infections or signs of disease on your plants in your gardening journal. This will also help you to develop a crop rotation plan, and serves as a helpful reminder of any problems you encountered in previous years.

Then, use the following guide to get a handle on your gardening foes.

1. Alternaria Leaf Blight

Alternaria leaf blight is caused by a fungus, Alternaria cucumerina, that shows up as yellowish-brown spots with a yellow or green halo that form on leaves. It attacks the older parts of plants first, before spreading to younger leaves.

Left unchecked, these spots will expand and eventually merge. They become necrotic and cause leaves to curl up and die. The fungus can also cause lesions to form on the fruits.

This disease prefers hot, humid areas with lots of rainfall, and usually pops up in midsummer.

How to Deal with Alternaria Leaf Blight

The first step to ward off an infection is to avoid watering plants from overhead. Instead, avoid the foliage altogether and only water at the base of plants. This disease may spread via water, and the spores need moisture to germinate, so keeping it off your leaves as much as possible helps.

To be extra safe, always keep your garden beds weeded, as these can also play host to the fungus. Crowded beds limit airflow and can cause a build up of humidity – prime conditions for spore germination.

If your plants show signs of this disease, you have a few options.

First, trim away infected leaves and ensure you’re watering at ground level, at the crown of your plants.

If the disease continues to spread, with leaves developing large areas of necrotic tissue, copper-based fungicide sprays are a good choice. Apply every 7-10 days.

You can also use copper-based fungicides preventatively, if you’ve had problems with Alternaria in the past.

Biofungicides containing Bacillus subtilis can also be effective.

Check out our guide to learn more about using Bacillus subtilis in your garden.

Be sure to clean up your garden beds in the fall. This disease can overwinter in the soil or on plant debris.

Always follow good gardening practices and rotate your crops every 2-3 years. These steps should be sufficient for keeping this fungus in check.

2. Bacterial Leaf Spot

Bacterial leaf spot is caused by Xanthomonas campestris bacteria. It starts as small spots on leaves that form a small yellow margin. These spots grow and merge, eventually becoming necrotic.

It also causes small, beige, indented spots on zucchini fruit.

It thrives in hot, moist weather and attacks plants through wounds or openings in the plant. It usually hits during the summer when temperatures are high.

How to Deal with Bacterial Leaf Spot

The most important step for preventing this disease is to buy certified disease-free seed, since leaf spot is a seed-borne pathogen. The second most effective preventative measure is to rotate your crops every two years.

If you catch this disease early enough, you can apply a copper-based fungicide to control it.

Once it catches hold, there isn’t anything you can do. Pull your plants and destroy them to avoid further spread of the disease.

Bacterial leaf spot can also be a problem in turnips.

3. Bacterial Wilt

Bacterial wilt in zucchini is caused by the bacterium Erwinia tracheiphila. It causes the entire plant to wilt, and leaves may turn dark green and dull, with discoloration on the stems.

It sometimes starts with a few wilting leaves or runners here and there, but it can rapidly expand to take over entire plants. I’ve seen it kill a whole vine quickly, before I even realized anything was wrong.

Typically, plants are infected in June through August, when the bugs that spread the disease are active.

How to Deal with Bacterial Wilt

Bacterial wilt is spread by spotted and striped cucumber beetles, so keeping them away is your first line of attack. You can check out our guide to controlling zucchini pests for details on handling cucumber beetles.

Once the plant is infected, there isn’t anything you can do. Pull it out of the garden to prevent the disease from spreading to other squash plants. Don’t put the plant in your compost or you risk further spread.

4. Blossom End Rot

You’ll first notice this disease as light brown spots that develop at the blossom end of young fruit. As the zucchini grows, the spots turn dark and leathery, and expand.

Blossom end rot isn’t caused by a fungus or bacterium. In fact, it isn’t really a “disease” at all, but rather, a physiological disorder caused by a lack of calcium in your plants. You won’t know they have it until the fruits begin to form.

This condition is commonly found in tomatoes, particularly during a drought, or in very dry conditions.

How to Deal with Blossom End Rot

Since the problem stems from a lack of calcium, you’d think adding calcium to the soil after the symptoms have developed would help. But it won’t.

Instead, you should test your soil before planting to see if it may have a calcium deficiency.

If so, add calcium to the soil before planting. Gypsum (calcium sulphate) or calcium chloride can both be used to add calcium without altering the soil’s pH.

If your soil has enough calcium and the developing fruits show signs of blossom end rot, the problem is that your plant isn’t getting enough water to transfer the calcium to the plant tissues.

Make sure your plant is getting plenty of water at regular intervals. If you can stick your finger an inch deep into the soil and it’s dry, your plant isn’t getting enough water.

You should also avoid applying too much nitrogen fertilizer to your plants because this can cause vigorous leaf growth, which takes up a lot of calcium from the soil as well.

Learn more about blossom end rot of zucchini in our full guide.

5. Cucumber Mosaic Virus

Cucumber mosaic virus causes plants to be seriously stunted. The leaves will have a mosaic-like pattern and may curl downwards. It can also cause fruits to be small, distorted, and discolored, with rough skins.

It’s spread by aphids and cucumber beetles, or contaminated garden tools.

Your plants can become infected anytime aphids are active, which usually spans the entire growing season. Weeds and plants like burdock, milkweed, horsenettle, jimsonweed, pokeweed, and alfalfa can act as hosts.

How to Deal With Cucumber Mosaic Virus

Once it has the disease, sadly, your plant is toast.

Next year, look for resistant varieties when you choose your cultivars. Keeping aphids and cucumber beetles away from your crops is your best defense.

Reflective mulches and row covers can help with this, but keep in mind that you’ll need to remove the row covers once plants start blooming, so they can be pollinated. Alternately, you can hand-pollinate your plants and keep them covered.

Insecticides won’t work in this case. By the time the aphid, for example, has been killed by the poison, it will likely already have spread the disease.

Planting a trap crop can help, as well. About two weeks before you plan to plant your zucchini, plant a row of sunflowers about 10 feet away from your intended planting location to attract the aphids.

This is where insecticides can help. Once you spot aphids on the sunflowers, you can then spray the plants with neem oil or insecticidal soap to kill the pests before they can move on to your zucchini plants.

You can also plant summer savory, basil, rosemary, lavender, garlic, or chives close to your zucchini plants. These act as repellants for many types of aphids. They should be planted at the outer edge of the garden where your zucchini plants will eventually grow.

Also, remember to clean your tools while you’re gardening. Each time you move from one plant to the next, wipe your tool down with a 10 percent bleach solution.

And be sure to maintain a perimeter where you keep weeds out at least 10 feet away from your zucchini plants.

6. Downy Mildew

Pseudoperonospora cubensis is a fungus-like pathogen known as an oomycete – or water mold – that attacks squash plants, causing downy mildew. It turns up as pale green or yellow angular spots on the leaves of plants. You may see a gray fuzz on the undersides of leaves as well.

Eventually, the leaves will turn brown and they may curl.

The pathogen thrives in wet, humid conditions. This disease usually takes hold towards the end of the growing season.

How to Deal with Downy Mildew

As with other many other diseases, prevention is key. Water at the base of plants, and don’t overcrowd them. Providing adequate spacing and ground-level irrigation allows for good air circulation, and prevents water from sitting on the leaves of your pants.

Keep an eye out for the telltale spots and apply a fungicide containing cyazofamid, fenamidone, or phosphorous acid at the first sign.

If the disease has already taken hold of your plant, pull and destroy it to avoid further spread of disease throughout your garden. Downy mildew attacks a wide range of plants. Don’t compost the zucchini.

Be sure to clean up the area where the plant was growing so that the pathogen doesn’t overwinter in debris in the soil.

If your plant has Fusarium crown and foot rot, you’ll notice wilting leaves followed by the entire plant wilting. Within a few days, the plant may die. This disease is caused by the fungus Fusarium solani.

The symptoms are similar to those seen in with Fusarium wilt, which causes stunted growth, wilting foliage, and death of the plant.

In the case of Fusarium crown and foot rot, if you examine the crown of the plant, you’ll notice necrotic tissue, or a white or pink fuzzy growth right at or just below the surface of the soil.

The disease is both soil-borne and seed-borne. It pops up during the warm summer months.

How to Deal with Fusarium Crown and Foot Rot

The best way to deal with this disease is to avoid it in the first place. Fungicides generally aren’t effective in treating it.

Be sure to rotate your crops at least every two years and buy certified disease-free seed. If your plants are infected, pull them and don’t plant anything in the squash family there for three years.

In the future, be sure not to over or under water your plants, and maintain good air circulation by planting with appropriate spacing.

Read more about Fusarium crown rot.

8. Powdery Mildew

The dreaded powdery mildew is caused by a variety of fungi. Erysiphe cichoracearum, Sphaerotheca fuliginea, and Podosphaera xanthii are the types that most commonly impact zucchini. It thrives in warm, humid conditions. Symptoms usually appear in mid- to late summer.

You’ll first notice pale yellow spots on the leaves, followed by a powdery coating that looks like someone dusted your plants with flour. It can make your plants weak, and can cause fruit to ripen early and be of poorer quality. It can also cause leaves to die off.

How to Deal with Powdery Mildew

Good air circulation is key in preventing powdery mildew. Make sure your zucchini has plenty of room to spread, and don’t let weeds creep in around your plants.

Examine your plants once a week for signs of this disease, since early action is important for putting a stop to it.

Some gardeners, like yours truly, struggle with this disease nearly every year. If that’s the case, you can use a sulfur-based fungicide or neem oil early in the growing season as a preventative measure. If you find your plant has it, neem oil can help slow its spread.

Keep an eye out for resistant zucchini varieties if this is something you’ve struggled with in the past.

9. Septoria Leaf Spot

Septoria cucurbitacearum is another fungus that attacks zucchini plants. It’s mostly found in the Northeast and Midwest. You can identify it by the small circular beige or white spots surrounded by a brown border that appear on the leaves.

It can be carried through water and thrives in moist, humid conditions when temps are in the low to mid-60s. It may go dormant when temperatures heat up in the summer, but it will likely return in the fall.

How to Deal with Septoria Leaf Spot

Because it can overwinter on plant debris, it’s important to clean up your garden beds in the fall.

If you spot this disease, trim away infected leaves and treat plants with an organic copper or potassium bicarbonate-based fungicide.

You can also use a chemical-based fungicide containing chlorothalonil.

10. Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium dahliae, the fungus that causes verticillium wilt, attacks hundreds of different plants, including zucchini. It prefers cooler weather but it usually isn’t evident until midsummer.

Usually you’ll notice the leaves turn yellow before they wilt and die.

You may first notice the plant wilting in the daytime and perking back up at night. Sometimes only half of the plant will wilt, while the other half looks fine.

How to Deal with Verticillium Wilt

Once a plant has Verticillium wilt, there’s nothing you can do to get rid of it. Pull up the plant and dispose of it.

In the future, rotate your crops. Look for varieties that are resistant. They’ll usually be marked with a “v” after the variety name. You should also clean your tools with a 10 percent bleach solution in between plants.

Also, keep weeds that may act as hosts away from your garden.

11. Zucchini Yellow Mosaic

Zucchini yellow mosaic virus shows up in a variety of ways. It can cause plants to be stunted and fruits can be deformed.

The leaves may have a yellow mosaic pattern and they may be small or deformed. The leaves or fruit may become necrotic.

It is sometimes mistaken for cucumber mosaic virus, which exhibits similar symptoms.

How to Deal with Zucchini Yellow Mosaic

Once a plant has this disease, you can’t cure it. The plant will die eventually die and you could lose your entire harvest. Remove diseased plants to prevent it from spreading.

It can’t survive without a live host, but it can live on any plant in the cucurbit family. Make sure to clean up your garden in the fall and rotate your crops.

The virus is spread by aphids, so keep them away from your plants. It can also be spread on footwear or tools, so be sure to clean your tools and gardening shoes with a 10 percent bleach solution when moving between garden areas.

No Matter the Problem, Use Good Practices

If you decide to grow zucchini, there are a few things you can do to ward off most diseases. These good practices can help to prevent all kinds of problems down the road.

In general, no matter what disease you’re targeting, it’s a good idea to practice crop rotation. Don’t plant something in the squash family in the same place for more than two years in a row.

You should also clean up your beds in the fall to avoid giving pathogens a place to overwinter.

Try to water at the base of plants, not on the leaves. This goes a long way toward preventing fungi and mold from getting a foothold on your plants.