It seems most of us gardeners love mint—as long as it’s in other people’s gardens, in tea, or in mixed drinks. In our own yards, plants from the Mentha genus—be it peppermint, spearmint, chocolate, or apple mint (yes, there’s a mint that has an apple scent)—all tend to spread beyond their allotted spot. Mint does this via underground runners and can easily take over an entire bed in just one season. Best then to grow it in a container.
Why even consider planting a mint in the garden given its aggressive behavior? Because there’s a mint that will respect your boundaries: mountain mint. If it spreads at all, it spreads very slowly, making it easy to rein it back in if it does stray. It has a long blooming season that lasts two to three months. It is a wonderful native source of nectar for pollinators. And it can crowd out weeds and stabilize hillsides.
Above: Clustered mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum) is a superb pollinator-attracting plant. (It’s also known as short-toothed mountain mint.) Photograph via Prairie Nursery.
There are about 20 types of mountain mint, mostly differentiated by the leaf shape, which ranges from heart shaped to needle shaped, with many shapes in between. Leaf color is dark green to silver green bracts at the flower heads. And like most mint family members, it has a square stem. Its compound round flower head has many tiny flowers, opening over the course of two to three months starting in June.
Mountain mint is not nearly as badly behaved as its mint cousins and, in fact, is one of the best plants to have in your garden if you want to attract pollinators. According to a 2013 Penn State study of flowering herbaceous perennial plant species, clustered mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum) attracted the most pollinators—over 78 insect visitors compared to the runner-up plant, gray goldenrod with 36 insects.
Mountain mint likes full sun to light shade. The more sun it gets, the more flowers it will have.
The taller varieties should be planted towards the back of the garden beds. Cutting the plants back when they are about two feet tall will make them grow back bushier and less leggy.
It prefers fertile, well-draining soil. It does not like to have “wet feet.” The soil can be neutral to slightly acidic.
Mountain mint is drought tolerant once established but should be watered during extended periods of drought.
Should the plant extend itself outside of the area you intended it to stay, cut the roots with a shovel and pull out the straying plants.
The plant is very low maintenance with few diseases or pests.
We put in a beautiful Grocery Row Garden with some friends back at the beginning of March.
It started with a backyard lawn and was turned into a garden over a couple of days, and then, after planting, we went back and visited it again two months later.
This entire process was filmed, from preparing the beds to picking out trees and shrubs, to planting potatoes, cassava and other crops, to then re-visiting the space as the initial yields started coming in.
The final video is almost an hour and a half long and is the most in-depth presentation on Grocery Row Gardening we’ve ever accomplished. It took four days of filming and work, and then another twenty hours or so of editing.
Hopefully, the final version will be done today. I’m color grading and doing the final edits. If all goes well, it will premiere on Sunday afternoon.
I first learned about Mexican honeysuckle through traditional Mexican herbalism practices.
The shrub, commonly known as muicle in my community, is native to the region where my relatives come from, so I felt an instant connection to this medicinal herb.
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Mexican honeysuckle is a pollinator-friendly herb that’s known for its easy growth and maintenance.
Not only is this perennial aesthetically pleasing, but it also has a variety of medicinal uses.
Its leaves can be used to treat respiratory issues, such as coughs and asthma, and it also has antibacterial properties.
Another fascinating thing about Mexican honeysuckle is that its leaves can be used to create a unique infusion that can take on various colors depending on the pH of the plant and the water.
I couldn’t wait to try it out and show my natural dyer friends – and you!
As soon as I learned more about the plant, I knew I had to add it to my garden. I selected a deep clay pot and placed it in partial shade where the herb is now thriving!
I feel grateful to have learned about this incredible plant through my cultural heritage, and that I can grow it in my own garden.
It’s a true testament to the power of traditional herbalism practices and the importance of preserving plants for future generations.
This guide will cover this enchanting shrub’s background and how to cultivate and care for the shrub in your garden.
Cultivation and History
This perennial shrub, belonging to the Acanthus family (Acanthaceae), is a unique and beautiful sight to behold.
Known by various names such as firecracker bush, moyotle, moyotli, mohintli, muicle, trompetilla, and yaxan, the Mexican honeysuckle, as it is commonly known as, is native to Belize, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, and Nicaragua.
The multi-stemmed evergreen is incredibly resilient and can withstand heat and droughts with ease.
However, it is not tolerant of colder temperatures and the leaves can perish, especially below 25°F.
It has been known to be root-hardy and pop up in spring after the last freeze. The USDA Hardiness Zones preferred by J. spicigera range from 8 to 11.
The upright spreading growth of this plant is moderate, however, given optimal conditions it can grow faster and more substantially, even beyond its typical mature size of five feet high and six feet wide.
As the plant matures, the herbaceous stems become woody.
Clusters of bright orange, narrow, tubular flowers are hard to miss, and they attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies.
Texan crescent butterfly.
These flowers serve as caterpillar food for the Texan crescent butterfly (Anthanassa texana). The nectar-filled flowers can bloom throughout the year in certain regions.
And the soft-to-the-touch, light green, ovate, oppositely arranged leaves grow up to three inches long.
By adding the leaves to hot water, it can be used as a natural pigment to color various items such as foods, beverages, and natural fibers.
Photo by Kat Sanchez.
The use of J. spicigera as a pigment is truly remarkable and goes back many generations; its potential use is inspiring.
According to a recent research published in the journal “Food Chemistry: Molecular Sciences,” J. spicigera pigments could be used in various food systems due to their range of colors at different pH levels.
Due to fluctuations in the molecular structure of anthocyanins in the extract, the color of J. spicigera extracts or powders in solution may turn orange, red, purple, or blue, ranging from a low to high pH.
Photo by Kat Sanchez.
Mexican honeysuckle has also been used traditionally for generations in Mexico to aid in the treatment of various ailments such as dysentery, diabetes, leukemia, anemia, and more.
I think Mexican honeysuckle is a beautiful reminder of the many natural wonders of our planet and the power of resilience.
It can serve as an inspiration to us all to stay strong and persevere through any challenges that come our way.
Propagation
The propagation of this species from seed is not commonly practiced.
Rather, stem cuttings are often the preferred option for propagating Mexican honeysuckle. Potted shrubs can also be transplanted into the garden.
From Cuttings
It’s best to take softwood cuttings during the summer months and hardwood cuttings during the fall.
To begin the propagation process, start by filling a pot with potting soil and moistening it with water.
Take a stem cutting that is approximately four inches long and dip it in water. At this point you can apply rooting hormone to the base before planting it in the soil to increase the possibility of root growth.
Place the cutting in the soil. Cover it with a plastic bag to encourage rooting, and maintain soil moisture until new growth emerges.
From Transplants
Once your cutting has established plenty of growth, it’s ready to be transplanted into the ground or to a large, deep container.
I transplanted mine from a gallon-size nursery container into a large clay container – I just wish I was able to move it around more easily!
The Viva Round Self-Watering Rolling Planter with a 17.25-inch diameter from Gardener’s Supply Co. would be perfect.
First, prepare the soil by mixing in some compost and make sure it is moist enough.
Then, dig small holes about three to four feet apart if planting more than one, and place your transplants in them. Make sure to cover the roots with soil and gently pat it down.
Next, water the plants thoroughly by saturating the soil while being sure not to waterlog it.
Over the next few weeks, observe your Mexican honeysuckles’ growth.
As they establish themselves, make sure to keep weeds to a minimum as they can take water and nutrients away from your new plants.
With a little bit of care and attention, anyone can grow this species, from cuttings to shrubs, in their own backyard!
How to Grow
This gorgeous perennial is a true sun-seeker that can also handle a little bit of shade. But be warned: if you keep it in the shadows, it may not flower as much, and it can get a bit leggy.
To keep this plant happy, make sure it’s planted in well-drained soil that’s neutral to alkaline.
No need to fertilize, but if you must, do it once a year in late winter after your last frost. This will help it to thrive for longer, particularly if you’re growing it in a container.
Over time, the plant’s container soil can lose important nutrients from water run-off, so a little boost can be beneficial and go a long way.
To ensure the development of a healthy root system, I recommend watering about once a week or every other week. Once the plant is established, it can survive drought-like conditions, but it will appear more vibrant with regular monthly watering.
It’s important to note that overwatering can hinder the plant’s ability to bloom, so it’s best to avoid excessive watering.
If you live in an area that gets chilly in the winter, don’t worry! Applying mulch will help to protect the crown so the plant returns in the spring.
Once the last freeze is over, trim off any frost-damaged parts to support new growth.
Growing Tips
Grow in full sun to partial shade.
For robust growth and more flowers, water regularly and grow in full sun.
Apply mulch prior to frost to help the plant return in spring.
Pruning and Maintenance
This shrub responds quickly to pruning with new growth.
It’s best to lightly head back the plant during late winter. If it’s still flowering at that time, be sure to leave a few flowers when pruning for the pollinators to enjoy during a time when nectar sources are not as abundant.
This is the Mexican honeysuckle in my garden that has become a bit leggy. Photo by Kat Sanchez.
Seasonal pruning will help it to stay full of leaves while encouraging more flowers.
I’m often asked which pollinator plants are tidy and leave very little leaf litter behind, and I can say that Mexican honeysuckle is an excellent candidate for spaces that require a bit more neatness!
Where to Buy
It’s not every day that one comes across Mexican honeysuckle being sold at a nearby nursery.
However, if you’re in search of this pretty perennial, then your best bet may be to pay a visit to a nursery that specializes in rare or pollinator-friendly species, or a local plant swap.
For those residing in East Los Angeles, like me, you’ll be pleased to know that you can easily find this herb displayed in gallon-sized pots outside of Mexican markets, also known as mercados.
Managing Pests and Disease
There aren’t many pests or diseases that affect this shrub. However, it is important to take note of the potential threats that may affect the growth and well-being of J. spicigera.
By taking simple and necessary precautions and ensuring proper care, you can help maintain the plant’s health and vitality.
Insects
It’s important to keep an eye out for whiteflies (Aleyrodidae), which can infest and cause damage to the foliage, flowers, and stems.
As a longtime California gardener, I have noticed that whiteflies are a common pest in warm climates.
These tiny insects, both adults and nymphs, feed on plant juices, which can weaken the specimen over time.
Additionally, they excrete a sticky and sugary substance called honeydew, which can attract a fungus known as sooty mold.
Fortunately, there are organic methods available to control whiteflies. Keeping up with and removing infested leaves can be an effective method in helping to prevent further spread, to start.
Another organic approach is to attract natural predators like native parasitic wasps and predatory beetles.
These beneficial insects can help to balance out the population of whiteflies and prevent further damage to plants.
Lastly, applying a pollinator-friendly organic solution like Organocide® Bee Safe 3-in-1 Garden Spray, which is available from Arbico Organics, can also effectively control whiteflies.
Root rot is the primary disease to look out for with this resilient plant.
We know Mexican honeysuckle does not enjoy waterlogged soil and prefers proper soil drainage, and we may be met with this harmful ailment if we don’t provide these conditions.
If your plants are experiencing wilting or yellowing leaves, it may be due to an issue with rot.
Upon inspection of the roots, if you notice black or brown tips and mushy areas, then it is likely that root rot is the culprit.
This disease can impact both young and mature specimens, so it is crucial to take preventative measures.
You can reduce the likelihood of root rot by practicing proper cultural methods of plant care, such as avoiding overwatering and ensuring adequate soil drainage.
When watering, make sure to direct the water away from the plant’s crown. Additionally, incorporating compost into your soil can help prevent this disease by improving soil quality.
Best Uses
J. spicigera grows well in sunny pockets of the garden, bringing bursts of bright color to spaces with its flowers, whether in the ground or in a container.
It’s an ideal shrub to include in pollinator gardens, especially for hummingbirds!
The plant also offers an array of potential healing benefits and botanical dyeing possibilities, making it a perfect selection for those interested in herbal remedies and natural pigments.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Perennial evergreen shrub
Flower/Foliage Color:
Orange-red/green
Native to:
Belize, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
8-11
Tolerance:
Deer, drought
Bloom Time/Season:
Spring-fall
Soil Type:
Various
Exposure:
Full sun to partial shade
Soil pH:
6.6-8.5
Time to Maturity:
2-3 years
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Spacing:
3-4 feet
Attracts:
Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:
Depth of root ball (transplants)
Uses:
Herb garden, natural dyeing, pollinator garden
Height:
5 feet
Order:
Lamiales
Spread:
6 feet
Family:
Acanthaceae
Water Needs:
Low-moderate
Genus:
Justicia
Common Pests and Diseases:
Whiteflies; root rot
Species:
Spicigera
Frequent Fiery Flowers for Your Garden
Mexican honeysuckle is a beautiful and beneficial perennial that has many uses. It is not only a powerful healing herb, but it can also be used as a natural dye for different projects.
Additionally, it is an attractive shrub that supports pollinators and can withstand drought conditions, making it ideal for eco-friendly garden designs.
What is Echum? The Echium plant, or Echiums, is a genus of flowering plants in the family Boraginaceae. The genus consists of around 70 different species and subspecies.
They are native to mainland Europe and Central Asia, the Macaronesian islands, and North Africa. Canary Islands, Cape Verde, and Madeira are famous for their extensive wild and cultivated Echium plants since 27 known species grow there.
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Common Echium varieties include:
The Echium [ECH-ee-um] name originates from the Greek word ‘echis’ (εχισ) for viper. Dioscorides first noticed the resemblance of how the seeds look like a viper’s head. Carl Linnaeus officially published the genus in 1753.
Echium Plant Care
Size & Growth
The shrubs of the Echium have a tall crown, and some of the tallest species reach an astounding height of 12′ feet.
You will be able to find smaller and more manageable varieties for your garden.
Echiums are popular ornamental plants. Research the different types of Echium to see which one fits your garden.
They will grow easily from seeds, and the best time to plant them is from February to May.
They’re better suited for soil beds, especially the larger species that need the soil’s support. When you plant echium, give them 12-24″ inches space to encourage healthy growth.
Flowering and Fragrance
Echium plants produce a rosette of leaves in the first year of growth.
In the second year (or more), they begin to produce woody flowering stalks.
The stalks are covered in rough leaves to protect the wood.
The large echium flower heads come in various colors, such as purple, blue, white, and pink.and more!
The flowers are also visited by butterflies and bees for nectar.
Some species of the Echium plant have fragrant flowers, while others do not.
Light & Temperature
The best Echium growing conditions include at least 6 to 8 hours of full sun daily.
It is vital for growers to observe the amount of sunlight the garden receives before planting Echium.
Ideally, you should plant the Echium in an area that receives sun from morning till early afternoon for at least 8 hours.
For hotter climates, it is better for the plant to get a little shade, or the foliage will burn. Your plants will appreciate a little shade from the intense late afternoon sun.
Watering and Feeding
The plants are drought-tolerant and only need watering when the soil is dry.
Once the seedlings or seeds have been in the ground for a few weeks, you should start watering the plants less frequently.
If you live in an area with regular rainfall, you don’t need to water the plant unless dry spells occur.
The plant doesn’t like soggy soil at all.
The Echium plant doesn’t need any sort of feed to flourish as long as it has good multi-purpose potting compost to grow in.
Soil & Transplanting
The best hardiness type for the soil is half-hardy. But, they need well-drained soil to prevent root rot.
You will not need to prepare the soil too much before adding a seedling or new seeds.
Echium plants are known to survive even in well-drained barren soil in the wild and grow well even with sandy soil in gardens.
It is better to avoid heavy clay soil since it needs a lot of preparation and drainage management.
If you have heavy clay soil, growing the plants in containers is better.
Grooming and Maintenance
If you are planting taller species, it is important to pack the soil to avoid them from falling or uprooting.
If they start to lean, you must tie them to a stake for support and gently pack the soil around the base.
The best thing is to choose a planting spot near a fence or a wall since it will support the plants.
Overcoming addiction is a very long process. Recovery doesn’t mean undergoing treatment for a certain period of time – it is a process that extends beyond treatment. As a means of aftercare, gardening provides a great way to sustain recovery.
The role of gardening in addiction recovery
A feeling of emptiness and a loss of purpose are frequent characteristics of addiction. As they deal with the repercussions of their prior behavior, people in recovery may struggle with feelings of worthlessness and hopelessness. With its concrete purpose and sense of duty, gardening presents a special chance to address this gap. People who engage in gardening act as stewards of living things, promoting development and sustaining life. Individuals who may have lost their sense of purpose may experience pride, success, and self-worth as a result.
Respite from Challenges
Gardening provides a therapeutic diversion from the difficulties of recovery. As with tending a garden, overcoming addiction demands patience, dedication, and discipline.
People who are interested in gardening cultivate an awareness for the natural world and find comfort in caring for plants as they immerse themselves in the hobby. Gardening has a meditative quality that can assist those in recovery from addiction with stress management, anxiety reduction, and overcoming cravings.
Connection to Earth and Nature
Along with the therapeutic advantages, gardening promotes a sense of connectedness to nature. Addiction can be isolating, creating feelings of being cut off from both society and the natural world. Individuals in recovery can find comfort and reestablish their connection to the natural world by getting involved with the land, plants, and the seasons. Digging in the soil, planting seeds, and watching plants grow is a metaphor for personal rebirth and transformation, providing encouragement and hope to individuals on the road to recovery.
Catalyst for Personal Growth
Gardening can be educational and contribute to personal development. People who become interested in plants learn about numerous species, gardening methods, and the science underlying plant production. Individuals may feel more confident and inspired to study, which may lead to pursuing learning in areas other than the garden. The practical skills necessary for reestablishing one’s life after addiction, such as organizing, planning, and problem-solving, are also encouraged by gardening.
Sense of Support and Belonging
A sense of camaraderie and support can be fostered via gardening in addition to the personal advantages. Gardening is frequently used as a therapeutic activity in addiction recovery programs, enabling people to collaborate, socialize, share experiences, and encourage one another.
In community gardens and urban farming programs, people in recovery can congregate and engage with others who share their interests and have had similar struggles. These places offer opportunities for social engagement and forming new connections, as well as a sense of belonging. The encouragement and responsibility provided by gardening groups can play a crucial role in the healing process.
Improved Mental Health
Gardening has many personal and physical advantages, but it can also be good for one’s mental health. Addiction has a negative impact on a person’s mental health, resulting in depression, anxiety, and stress. With its therapeutic benefits, gardening can serve as a natural remedy for several mental health issues. The act of caring for plants and observing their development can bring feelings of happiness, contentment, and optimism.
Communal and Environmental Benefits
Gardening has advantages beyond the individual. As people in recovery tend to their gardens, they improve the aesthetics of their neighborhood. Initiatives like community gardens and urban farming not only give people a place for their own personal development, but they also benefit the surrounding area and ecosystem. Gardens can turn lifeless areas into bright oases, promoting a sense of pride and community. Additionally, gardening promotes environmental awareness and care by encouraging sustainable behaviors such as composting, water conservation, and the use of organic practices.
Chance for Employment
People in recovery may discover a passion for horticulture or landscaping as they gain knowledge and skills in plant cultivation. This fresh found enthusiasm may prompt further study or enrollment in related vocational training courses, opening up doors to potential future work opportunities.
Better Physical Health
Gardening can improve one’s physical health. The physical toll of addiction frequently causes people to overlook their own well-being. In the garden, people can strengthen their bodies, hearts, and immune systems. Exposure to sunlight encourages the synthesis of vitamin D, which is essential for overall health. Regular physical exercise and outdoor activities like gardening can lead to a healthy lifestyle, which can speed up the healing process and lower the risk of relapse.
In summary, gardening can be a potent tool in their recovery process for those battling addiction. It gives people a sense of direction, aids in healing, builds a connection with nature, and presents chances for self-improvement and communal support. People in recovery can plant the seeds of a new life by interacting with the transforming power of plants and nature, fostering their physical, mental, and emotional well-being. Gardening is a symbol of the human spirit’s resiliency and the capacity for development and rejuvenation, especially in the face of adversity.
Author Bio:Pierce Biglefthand a Licensed Addiction Counselor (LAC/LCSW) with the State of Montana at ChoicePoint, and I have 7 years of professional counseling experience. I have worked with clients who have suffered from SUD and past complex traumas. I have been writing about mental health and drug addiction problems for the past five years.
Setting up an inviting outdoor space is the key to enjoying the beauty of nature while staying comfortable and relaxed in the privacy of your home. Whether you have a spacious garden, a cozy balcony, or a small patio, you can transform it into a stylish haven for outdoor living and entertaining. In this blog post, we will explore some valuable tips to help you create a comfortable and stylish garden setting that will let you spend more time than ever enjoying nature.
Define Your Vision
Defining your vision is a crucial first step in designing your perfect outdoor sanctuary. Take some time to reflect on the atmosphere and mood you want to create in your outdoor space. Consider the purpose of your space outside and how you intend to use it. Explore different styles, such as Japanese Zen gardens, English cottage gardens, or contemporary minimalist designs, to find inspiration that aligns with your vision. Take into account your personal preferences for colours, textures, and overall aesthetics. If you have a clear vision in mind, you can make informed decisions and prevent overspending on your budget.
Choose Thoughtful Furniture and Decor
Selecting the right furniture and decor is vital when aiming to create your perfect garden oasis. Opt for comfortable seating that invites relaxation, and try to integrate natural materials, such as wood or stone, to blend with the outdoor environment. Or, go the opposite direction and have a few stand-out pieces like these Lazy Susan aluminum garden furniture sets or their metal garden benches to truly catch the eye of any visitors. Also think about using decor items like lanterns, wind chimes, or sculptures to add subtle touches of beauty and intrigue.
Select the Right Plants
Plants play a vital role in creating the perfect garden atmosphere. Choose plants that align with your vision and the climate in your region. Consider the colours and textures of different species. Incorporate a mix of evergreens, flowers, and ornamental grasses to provide year-round interest and aim for a harmonious blend of foliage and blooms that will make a soothing and visually appealing landscape.
Create a Sense of Flow
It’s important to establish a sense of flow that guides visitors through your garden. The layout and arrangement of your elements should encourage exploration and a seamless transition between different areas. Begin by designing pathways or walkways that connect key points of interest, such as seating areas, or functional spaces like vegetable gardens or water features. Consider using materials like stone, gravel, or stepping stones to make a visually appealing and practical pathway. Introduce gentle curves and meandering routes to avoid rigid lines and add a sense of intrigue. When designing an outdoor space with a sense of flow, you invite a natural and effortless movement that contributes to a peaceful and harmonious atmosphere.
Incorporate Water Elements
Water elements have a magical effect on a garden, instantly enhancing the majesty of the area. Consider incorporating water features such as ponds or fountains to promote a soothing and calming atmosphere. The sound of flowing water can mask unwanted noises and create a sense of peace and calm. You should choose a water feature that fits the scale and style of your garden, whether it’s a small bubbling fountain or a larger pond with aquatic plants. Water features also offer visual interest and attract beautiful wildlife such as birds, butterflies, and dragonflies, adding to the natural ambiance. Try to position your water element strategically, perhaps near a seating area or along a pathway, so that it can be easily enjoyed and appreciated.
Embrace the Power of Fragrance
To truly enhance the atmosphere of your garden, consider incorporating plants with delightful fragrances. Fragrant flowers like lavender, jasmine, and roses can infuse the air with soothing scents. You can also include aromatic herbs such as mint, thyme, or lemon balm. Position these fragrant plants strategically near seating areas or along pathways, allowing their pleasant aromas to envelop your sanctuary as people brush against them.
Create Privacy
Privacy is essential in designing an outdoor sanctuary, providing a sense of seclusion and allowing you to fully relax without feeling exposed to the outside world. There are various ways to create privacy within your garden. One option is to incorporate tall plants or hedges that act as natural screens, creating a living barrier that shields your space from prying eyes. Another option is to use trellises or lattice panels and train climbing vegetation to cover them, creating a beautiful and verdant wall. Strategically incorporating elements that create privacy can ensure that your private space always feels like a secluded oasis.
Emphasise Seasonal Interest
A garden that offers visual interest throughout the seasons contributes to its intrigue, so try to incorporate plants that showcase different colours, textures, and blooming periods throughout the year. Include evergreen shrubs or trees for year-round structure and add seasonal flowering plants to provide bursts of colour. If you carefully select a variety of plants to flower at strategic times, you can ensure that your garden remains enchanting and peaceful, no matter the time of year.
Embrace Natural and Sustainable Practices
Designing a garden goes hand in hand with embracing natural and sustainable practices. Incorporate eco-friendly principles into your design to create a space that is not only peaceful but also environmentally conscious. Choose native plants that are well adapted to your region’s climate, requiring less water and maintenance. Implement water conservation techniques, such as installing rain barrels or drip irrigation systems, to minimize water waste. Use organic fertilizers and natural pest control methods to promote a healthy ecosystem. Consider composting to reduce waste and enrich your soil naturally. By practicing sustainable gardening, you contribute to the overall harmony in your garden while also taking care of the planet.
Designing an oasis in your garden requires thoughtful planning and consideration. By following a few of the tips above, you can build a haven of calm where you can escape and find solace in the beauty of nature. Make the most of the process while designing your perfect garden sanctuary and let it become a cherished space for relaxation and rejuvenation.
What is soap made out of? Much of modern soap-making relies on the same process and ingredients that our ancestors used. This simple chemical reaction of turning oils into soap is something everyone can do at home with the right ingredients.
When you pull out all the oils and butter for your soap, it’s hard to believe that these liquids turn into a hard bar of soap. I feel like a chemist when I don my safety gear, carefully measure my ingredients, and mix them all together.
Or perhaps I feel like a magician because making my own soap feels like magic.
Soap making can be as simple or complex as you like. When it comes down to it, soap is made of only three key ingredients: oil, lye, and water. But having a successful bar of soap can get a lot more complicated than that.
From traditional soap making to cold process soap, here’s what ingredients go into soap making.
This post will cover…
Traditional Soap Making Ingredients
The first recorded proof of soap-making dates back to Babylon in 2800 BC. The soap-making formula was written on a clay tablet, detailing the mixture of oil and wood ash. This is the earliest known chemical reaction!
Let’s break down these soap ingredients.
Oil
Like modern soap making, a key component of soap is oil or fat. Each one will have different qualities, some more moisturizing while others create a good lather.
In traditional soap making, you would see some of the following oils and fats used:
Almost all of my soaps are plant-based, but I experimented with this lard soap and really liked how it turned out.
Wood Ash
In traditional soap, wood ash is needed to create the chemical reaction. But, you can’t just use any ash. Specifically, it needs to be white wood ashes.
Lye water is created by pouring boiling water over the cool wood ashes. The mixture then cures overnight before it’s ready for the oils to be added.
Modern soap-making allows us to weigh all ingredients, so there is little risk of bad batches.
Cold Process Soap Ingredients
Nowadays, things are a little easier when it comes to making soap. But, it still relies on those primary ingredients of oils and fats as the base combined with lye water. Cold process soap is what most hobbyists or handmade soap makers will do to make their soaps.
Cold process soap is poured at a puddling-like consistency and then hardens over the course of 48 hours.
Oil
The primary base of the soap is oils, fats, and butters. I combine many different oils in one recipe to get a perfect formula with many benefits.
These are then melted together before being added to the lye water. Here are some of the most common oils and butters and when you might use them.
Lard: while traditional, lard is still a great soap-making ingredient. It produces an overall moisturizing soap with a good lather and comes at a low price point. However, it’s not plant-based and finding it without any additives can be tricky sometimes.
Olive oil: more often than not, olive oil has the highest percentage in my soap recipes. The thick oil is known for being moisturizing, and it creates soft bars.
Grapeseed oil: grapeseed oil is very lightweight and contains many antioxidants and linoleic acid. I usually add a little bit of it to most of my recipes.
Sunflower oil: I like using sunflower oil for its low price point. It has a great lather but can leave the skin feeling slightly oily, so it should be combined with other oils. It’s got tons of fatty acids and vitamin E.
Jojoba oil: technically a liquid wax, jojoba oil makes a bar very hard and stable. Just a hint is good for cold process soap.
Coconut oil: one of my favourites, coconut oil has tons of cleansing properties and produces very large bubbles when lathering.
Palm oil: this is a very affordable oil that can make up most of a soap’s base. It’s often combined with coconut oil for a hard bar with a good lather. However, palm oil has major sustainability issues, so it’s important only to buy it from trusted sustainable suppliers.
Rice bran oil: with a texture similar to olive oil, it moisturizes and creates a soft soap. It’s rich in antioxidants and vitamin E.
Cocoa butter: solid at room temperature, cocoa butter adds a very luxurious and moisturizing effect to soap. It’s best used at smaller percentages.
Mango butter: while technically solid at room temperature, all it takes is some contact with skin to melt. It’s high in Vitamin E and Vitamin C, and very moisturizing.
Shea butter: shea butter helps to harden the soap, feeling very moisturizing on the skin.
Lye
In traditional soap making, lye water was made by combining wood ash with water. Luckily, things are much easier with the invention of caustic soda, the chemical compound known as sodium hydroxide (NAOH). You can find it as pellets, flakes, and powders.
Potassium hydroxide (KOH) is also sometimes referred to as lye or as caustic potash. The resulting soaps are going to be softer than those made with caustic soda. Caustic potash requires less water to dissolve, so the cleaning properties are actually higher. It’s mostly used for liquid soap.
Lye is then added to water to create your lye water. It instantly gets really hot and emits a strong odour, so you only want to do this in a well-ventilated area.
Lye water must be made in a heat-proof container since it heats up quickly to a high temperature when it first mixes in with the water.
Fragrance
Of course, many soaps also have fragrances. On commercial soaps, the scent is often just listed as fragrance, which is a vague term that represents an artificial chemical mixture. Most fragrances are considered irritants and can affect allergies and more.
Fragrance oils are available for purchase online in just about any scent you can think of to add to soaps, candles, and other homemade products.
For all of my soaps, I personally use essential oils. These are plant extracts that retain the scent and some properties of the plant. They’re 100% natural and what I turn to when making all of my beauty products.
Making your own soap allows you to customize the fragrance to whatever your nose likes most!
Colour
Like fragrance, you can have many artificial colours. Mica is always a great option. Mica is comprised of minerals that have been subject to extreme heat and pressure. You can find them in many vibrant colours, often with a shiny hue.
You can also find colourants which are made from oxidized metals. These aren’t as fine and don’t have that shine. They’re quite vibrant and create a matte appearance.
Just a small amount of powder is all you need to colour most soaps.
Frequently Asked Questions About Soap Ingredients
What is the main ingredient in soap?
All soap must have at least three ingredients: a fat of some kind (rendered animal fat or plant-based oils and butters), lye, and water. The fats are the core base of the recipe.
Is lye harmful to humans?
Lye is very caustic and can cause chemical burns when handled improperly. But when used correctly, it’s completely safe for soap-making. When you mix lye with the oils and water properly, the chemical reaction between the ingredients means there’s no lye left in the soap. After the soap cures for six weeks, it’s safe for use on the skin.
If working with lye scares you, you can also make soap without lye using the melt and pour method.
What is the purpose of lye in soap?
Lye is integral part of saponification. This chemical reaction turns oil and fats mixed with lye into soap. Without lye, all you have is oils and fats!
You can experiment with soap by adding different items. For instance, this luffa soap is made from a naturally exfoliating dried vegetable.
Try These Soap Recipes
Now that you know what soap is made out of, try some of these fun soap recipes.
The coast of Turkey is stunning; there are hillsides covered in pine forests, and olive groves that rise steeply above black and golden sandy beaches lapped by the sea. A perfect way to explore this wonderful shoreline in detail is to take a luxury cruise. You can spend several days sunbathing on deck, swimming in pretty coves, or visiting traditional sites and unwinding over long lunches in Turkish coastal towns.
Since a luxury cruise offers both accommodation and transport, you can enjoy a hassle-free luxury yacht charter Turkey holiday that will remain in your memory throughout your life. And chartering a ship is simple and quick in Turkey. Whether you have a captain’s licence or not, you’ll be able to charter a luxury cruise easily.
Let’s take a look at the options for luxury cruise in Turkey, and the service you can expect.
Luxury cruise in Turkey
Turkey’s beautiful turquoise coast is home to many different luxury cruises. In most cases, tours typically last between five and seven days.
Luxury cruises with set themes are available, including those that take shore excursions to traditional ruins, cultural events and historic towns. Other luxury cruises are more dedicated to watersports or relaxation, but you can always add optional shore excursions.
You can also charter a private luxury cruise to spend time with your family and friends or celebrate a special event. Luxury cruises usually include the entire crew, and you can choose or tailor your itinerary. If you prefer being hands-off, you can let the company plan and arrange everything for you.
There are small luxury cruise alternatives catering to families or couples. If you’re planning something bigger, medium-size boats are available and take a maximum of twelve visitors, and larger ones can take a minimum of thirty guests.
Other alternatives that you can consider for a memorable luxury yacht charter Turkey holiday include VIP, deluxe, standard and economy boats.
What luxuries can you expect?
Many luxury cruise chartering companies have stepped up to accommodate all types of travellers, including extra perks or exclusive suite complexes for their higher-paying customers.
With these packages, affluent travellers can avoid the stresses of mega-ship life, such as crowded sun decks and lounges and long queues. They can still take advantage of all the amenities, including expansive kids clubs, multiple nightlife and entertainment options, and active-deck pursuits.
VIP luxury cruises combine top-notch suites with private sun decks and lounges, as well as restaurants inaccessible to most passengers. Travellers who book luxury cruises can also enjoy extra amenities, VIP privileges and services. The entire experience is like sailing on a luxury vessel within a larger, amenity-laden cruise ship.
Luxury cruise prices in Turkey
Luxury cruises in Turkey vary in price depending on the ship and package you choose. You can book your luxury yacht charter Turkey holiday in three main categories that feature different prices; deluxe, luxury and standard.
In addition to the ship size and category, another feature that determines the price is the range of services and amenities available, such as watersports and Jacuzzis on deck.
Standard cruises are usually smaller, with less deck space and special amenities. As a result, the price is more affordable. Deluxe or luxury boats usually include private restaurants, five-star hotels, and extra amenities, making them relatively expensive.
Finding the right luxury yacht charter in Turkey
There are many luxury yacht charter Turkey providers and tour organisers. Most of these companies’ itineraries include meals, entrance fees to traveller destinations, and transfers to and from airports.
When it comes to picking the perfect luxury yacht charter in Turkey, you’ve got lots of options. To make a good choice, consider the quality of the vessel, the services available, and also whether the itinerary suits your party. Balancing costs with service quality will help you find a charter that’s perfect for your holiday plans.
How to describe Dungeness on the south coast of England? Let’s start with the weather: “Wild, extreme, elemental… salt wind, predominantly from the south-west, cold Easterlies, intense searing sun.” This is according to Kathryn Morris, owner of the Roundhouse, the only property on this shingled promontory that has sheltering hedges and a fence. Dungeness is a conservation area and a Site of Special Scientific Interest, as well as a site of great horticultural interest to the many pilgrims who come here to see the garden of artist and writer Derek Jarman, made famous in the timeless book, Derek Jarman’s Garden.
Referencing a 19th century collection of ghost stories, Jarman describes Dungeness as the fifth quarter of the globe, the other four being Europe, Asia, Africa and America. With its own historic nuclear power station (currently being decommissioned), Dungeness is a kind of republic, and certainly a place set apart. Join us for a visit to one of its more unusual corners.
Above: West Cottage, one of two lighthouse keepers’ cottages which are rented out as holiday lets, just across the path from the Roundhouse. In the background, the ever-looming Dungeness B power station, built in the 1960s and in the slow process of being decommissioned.
Dungeness is home to 600 species of plant (one third of all plants found in the UK, according to the Dungeness National Nature Reserve). The landscape is therefore “vegetated shingle” (shingles here meaning beach gravel). At the Roundhouse, built around the foundations of a 1792 lighthouse, the gardens around two lighthouse keepers’ cottages have a layer of soil, since the two families needed to feed themselves in this barely populated place. “There are historical photos of greenhouses and neatly laid out vegetable plots, and bee hives,” says Kathryn. Now, people interested in lunch form an orderly queue outside the Dungeness Snack Shack for the best lobster rolls this side of the Atlantic.
Above: White-flowering sea kale is one of the native, leitmotif plants that grow on the beach and against walls, filling the air with a strong honey scent. “Sea kale, Crambe maritima, is the Ness’s most distinguished plant,” wrote Derek Jarman in the ’90s.
The Roundhouse was built in 1843, partly to shore up the base of the lighthouse tower, and the two lighthouse keepers’ cottages were added at this time. When the old lighthouse was demolished at the beginning of the twentieth century, to make way for a taller one next to it, rubble was dumped into what is now Kathryn’s back garden, which is why the ground is “very topsy-turvy.”
Above: Under the lee of giant, clipped oleaster (Elaeagnus x ebbingei), the gravel garden is able to thrive.
Kathryn’s own garden is accessed through a narrow gap in the hedge. The garden was made by Kathryn’s father, after he bought the property on impulse about 30 years ago. He was an artist and sculptor, which is evident in the way he used found materials and built structures, but he was also a smart gardener, creating enclosures—and sheltered places within those enclosures.
One of the former cottage tenants works at Great Dixter house and gardens, a 40-minute drive away. Kathryn asked her to find someone to help steer the Roundhouse garden after she inherited the property, and along came Marc O’Neill: “I immediately said I would, as I love Dungeness.”
Above: Washed-up former sea defenses from Camber Sands, just along the coast, bring a sculptural element to the gravel garden.
This is Johana in Aiken, South Carolina. I had a different set of photos I was planning to submit, but when I awakened this morning to such a beautiful sight from my windows, I grabbed my phone and tried to capture the beauty I was seeing.
This photo is of the front walkway, and since it was early morning, the playful shadows and shapes reminded me of Alice Through the Looking Glass.
This photo shows the ligustrum (Ligustrum japonicum, Zones 7–10) in the background in full flower.
In this photo you can see the nest by our back door. This is where my husband and I watched a pair of mockingbirds build the nest.
Here you can again see the blooming ligustrum in the background, with the false cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera, Zones 4–8) andEuonymus(Zones 5–9).
Here is a closer view of the ligustrum in bloom. Though often thought of as a foliage or hedging plant, ligustrum can flower heavily, and the blooms are quite fragrant.
I wish I were a better photographer, but I do hope I captured some of the beauty of this day. Thank you, and happy gardening to all.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Finding the perfect gift can be a delightful challenge for those with a deep-rooted love for gardening. Whether they have a blooming flower garden or a lush vegetable patch, gardeners appreciate presents that nurture their passion and help them easily tend to their plants.
So, if you’re searching for a gift that will genuinely make a gardener’s day, you’ve come to the right place. This article will explore a curated selection of gifts to delight any gardener, regardless of their experience level or gardening style.
From handy accessories to decorative accents and educational resources, here’s a compiled list of options as diverse as flower box gift ideas and innovative apps.
Hand Trowel And Pruners
An indispensable tool for gardening, hand trowel, and pruners are essential components of any gardener’s arsenal. Hand trowels are small spade-like tools that dig holes and break up the soil. On the other hand, pruners are tools designed to cut through the branches and stems of plants. Both tools come in various shapes and sizes depending on the task.
When buying these tools for a gardener, look for high-quality materials that will last longer and withstand wear and tear over time. Additionally, ensure they are ergonomically designed not to strain the hands during extended use. Lastly, look for models with comfortable handles with rubber grips so they don’t slip away even when wet or muddy.
Gardening Gloves
Gardeners should consider investing in gardening gloves to protect their hands from dirt, debris, and other potential irritants. Gardening gloves offer several benefits for gardeners, including:
Protection from cuts and scrapes caused by pruning or digging tools.
Improved grip strength when handling various pieces of equipment.
Protection against dirt, debris, and possible allergens.
Keeping hands clean while still being able to perform tasks with ease.
Comfort through breathable material that absorbs sweat.
In addition to providing protection and comfort while working in the garden, gardening gloves are available in many colors, patterns, and styles. This can help gardeners express their style as they work.
Garden Hose And Watering Can
The garden is made more accessible using a garden hose and watering can. A garden hose provides convenience as it can reach areas difficult to access with a watering can. A long hose length also allows flexibility when deciding how much water to give certain plants. Moreover, most hoses come with various nozzles that make it easy to adjust water pressure, and some even have adjustable spray patterns for specific purposes like misting delicate flowers or washing off dirt from larger plants.
On the other hand, a watering can is more suitable for smaller gardens and gives more control over where the water goes than a hose does. It’s typically made of metal or plastic and comes in various sizes depending on how much water needs to be dispensed at one time. Additionally, some models may feature an ergonomic handle for comfort while using it and might even be designed with decorations or motifs to add color and character to any outdoor area.
Garden Shovel And Rake
Garden shovels and rakes are essential gardening tools, allowing for soil preparation and removal of weeds. Garden shovels can dig planting holes, mix fertilizer or compost, and move garden soil from one area to another. On the other hand, rakes break up clumps of soil and help level the ground before planting. They can also spread grass seed over newly tilled areas or remove dead leaves from lawns.
Soil Moisture Meters
Soil moisture meters measure the water content in the soil by sending an electrical current into the soil. This current produces a reading on the meter indicating how much available water plants use. The readings are often divided into categories such as ‘dry,’ ‘moist,’ and ‘wet’ to make it easier for gardeners to interpret them.
It comes in various styles, from simple handheld devices to more complex digital models with advanced features. Digital models typically have LED displays that provide information about temperature, sunlight levels, and soil moisture content. They may also include sensors that measure light intensity, air temperature, wind speed, and humidity levels.
Smart Gardening Apps And Software
The transition from automatic irrigation systems to smart gardening apps and software is clear: both are technological solutions for making gardening easier. Smart gardening apps and software offer a variety of features that can help gardeners with their craft. For example, smartphone applications can advise users on the best times for planting, watering, weeding, pruning, and other tasks associated with gardening.
Additionally, some apps feature interactive databases that allow users to search through thousands of plants to find the best fit for their garden. Finally, many of these applications also come equipped with reminders and alerts that alert users when it’s time to water or perform other essential tasks related to their garden.
Decorative Planters, Flower Boxes, And Pots
Various planters, flower boxes, and pots provide the perfect accent for any outdoor space. Plenty of options exist with multiple shapes, sizes, and materials. Planters can be made from terracotta, wood, metal, or stone, each with a unique look and feel. Not only do they add visual appeal, but they also allow for creative planting combinations that will bring a touch of personality to the garden.
Flower pots come in an equally wide range of styles and materials as planters. From classic designs like terra cotta window boxes to more modern options such as hanging plastic baskets, flower pots offer the gardener much experimentation with design elements. In addition to their aesthetic value, many planters and flower boxes have practical features such as adjustable drainage or self-watering systems for easy maintenance.
Garden Statues And Sculptures
Garden statues and sculptures can provide a unique visual element to any outdoor space, creating an impactful aesthetic that will draw attention. These art pieces come in various sizes and styles, allowing gardeners to find the perfect piece for their space. From classic Greek-inspired figures to modern abstract designs, garden sculptures come in many forms and materials.
Depending on the design, they can be used as focal points or hidden among foliage for subtle surprises. Garden statues made of stone or metal are usually very durable and able to withstand the elements over time, while more delicate pieces may require extra care when exposed to harsh weather conditions.
Wind Chimes And Mobiles
Wind chimes and mobiles are an excellent way to add a soothing atmosphere to any outdoor space. There are many styles of wind chimes available, ranging from simple tubes to highly intricate designs. Wind chimes can be crafted from wood, metal, glass, stone, ceramic, or bamboo.
Similarly, mobiles can be made from similar materials and often feature characters such as birds or animals moving in the breeze. Moreover, wind chimes and mobiles come in various sizes to fit into any garden setting. The sounds created by the movement of the pieces in the wind are said to have a therapeutic effect on those nearby.
Gardening Books And Magazines
For the avid gardener, books, and magazines offer a wealth of knowledge to draw from. Gardening books provide detailed plant cultivation instructions and information about the most popular varieties. They can also help gardeners choose the tools needed for their specific environment and soil type. Magazines are great for those with limited gardening experience or who want inspiration for their outdoor space.
Many books and magazines are subscription services that can be tailored to fit any budget. Subscribers gain access to exclusive content such as interviews with experts, seasonal tips, new product reviews, and more. Hence, books and magazines are great gifts for anyone interested in gardening as a hobby or profession.
Conclusion
Gardening gifts provide a wonderful opportunity to express gratitude for the dedicated efforts of a gardener. Whether it’s essential tools, innovative gadgets, decorative accents, books, or magazines, a suitable option exists for every gardener. The abundance of choices may make the selection process daunting, yet with careful consideration and thoughtfulness, any chosen gift is bound to bring joy and delight to the recipient.
Once summer is in full swing, your backyard or patio will instantly be one of the most-used parts of your home. It’s time to enjoy the pleasant weather and spend more moments outdoors. If you have kids, the more-relaxed schedule being off school allows a lot of opportunities to play in your yard. For parents, this means sitting by the patio, watching them have a good time while relaxing.
That is, of course, if you have a patio that makes relaxing even possible in the first place. If it’s not any of that; unfortunately, even the pleasant weather won’t be enough reason for you to enjoy your backyard finally. Beyond the typical cleaning your patio deserves, consider this an opportunity to make additions and patio enhancements for a more livable and inspiring space.
Here are a few ways to breathe new life into your patio without burning a hole in your budget:
Install Outdoor Roman Blinds
Patios are always an excellent add-on to your home, but depending on the weather, there’ll be days when spending time in that outdoor space doesn’t make sense, mainly when it’s too hot. If you live where the summer heat can get too overbearing, it’s a good idea to install outdoor Roman shades on your patio if you haven’t already installed one.
First, they’re functional. They block the sun, so you can still relax. You don’t have to keep yourself cooped indoors because of the weather. Second, they’re also aesthetically pleasing. Outdoor Roman shades come in many varied designs, so you must find one that fits your patio’s overall style or theme.
Use All Weather Furniture
Even if your patio has a roof, using all-weather furniture is the safest (and most practical) choice for an outdoor space. Think of this as an investment in the long run, where you don’t have to bother about the wear and tear this time. Even with a roof, exposure to the outdoor elements can age other types of furniture significantly, where, in a few years, you’ll be itching to invest in new pieces. It isn’t the most budget-friendly route to take.
All-weather furniture offers long-lasting pieces that withstand any climate. Moreso, there’s no worrying about closing up your patio or covering the furniture when the rain comes.
Add Some Dramatic Lighting
Just like in an indoor space, lighting instantly enhances the look and feel of any space. There are string lights, hanging tree lights, and any other type of yellow-hue dramatic lighting on your patio that does precisely that.
Adding enough lights serves a more functional than aesthetic purpose, too. Like shades and the roof, there’s no spending enough time on your patio if, when dusk starts to come, you’ll be rushing inside because your outdoor space is short on lights.
Aesthetically, there’s that resort-like feel and ambiance dramatic lighting bring. Hang these from the patio ceiling or a tree branch—light candles on the center table. String lights and hanging tree lights are just a few examples of how to illuminate your patio, transforming what would’ve otherwise been a dark and dull space into a beautiful and inviting area at night.
Build A Calming Water Feature
If the space permits, you can also use one side of the patio as the foundation for a calming water feature. It is often possible in gardens where your patio is beside a concrete fence. No matter how narrow, there’s always a way to build a water feature on the wall. When it’s done, you’ll indeed have an oasis.
The sound of the water is very relaxing. Highlight this with lighting, and that, by itself, can serve as an accent to your patio.
Cozy Up With Throw Pillows And An Outdoor Rug
If your patio has a roof, take advantage of that to go all out with all the final touches to your space. Cozy up with throw pillows, as these add depth and dimension to your outdoor couch while making it more comfortable.
An outdoor rug ties everything together, as it would in your living space or dining area. Like all-weather furniture, if you search well enough, some home suppliers also now have all-weather throw pillows and rugs, so you don’t have to worry about wear and tear as well.
Have A Fire Pit
This sixth suggestion is best suitable for families with young children or those who live where winter weather can get unbearably cold. If you need shade from the sun, you’d need some warmth from the cold, too, even if you’re relaxing on the patio.
It’s where a cozy fire pit comes to save the day. Kids (and kids at heart) will enjoy gathering by the patio and roasting smores by the fire pit at night. It also keeps you warm, so you can continue relaxing for family time, even when it’s cold. Now you can say hello to more bonfire nights with the family.
Top With A Pergola
For patios without a roof, building a pergola is another excellent idea. It’s on the higher end of projects on this list. However, it’s still relatively affordable, given the vast array of ready-made pergolas available in many home depots and hardware stores.
Pergolas are great, as they give some shade without necessarily closing the entire space, as a roof does. It’s perfect for those who prefer to have a bit of sun exposure on the patio.
Decorate With Plants
Your backyard may already have an abundance of greenery, but this doesn’t mean your patio can’t have a few. Plants are always pleasant addition in any space, be it indoors or outdoors.
And, because it’s on your patio, you can increase the decorative feel by being more intentional with your choice of pots and planters. Go beyond the usual brown clay or plastic pots. Colored ceramic planters are elegant and stylish, adding pops of color here and there to your patio.
Final Thoughts
With the ideas above, you can transform your patio into the most inspiring space in your backyard. There are bigger and more expensive transformations, but starting small is fine if those are out of budget. Sprucing up a space requires attention to minor details, so every bit matters. Start by looking at your patio and see which of the suggestions above it can benefit from doing. No matter your garden landscaping idea, your patio becomes an inspiring space to gather, entertain, relax, and enjoy al fresco dining.
Trying to choose a ginkgo tree for your landscape?
Along with size, form, and growth rate, don’t forget to consider one of the most important factors in selecting a Ginkgo biloba: its biological sex.
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When it comes to members of the plant kingdom, it’s often easy to forget that they have male and female bits, too.
Nothing quite as recognizable or explicit as what animals have, but they’re there.
And while many plants are monoecious – having male and female parts on the same specimen – ginkgos are dioecious, with entirely separate male and female plants.
With many dioecious plants, you can pretty much use the males and females interchangeably throughout the landscape. But if you were to do that with G.biloba, you’d be making a grave mistake.
Well, maybe “grave” is too strong a word. But you’ll certainly be kicking yourself and thinking: “Man, this stinks.”
For the rundown on male versus female trees and what each can do for your landscape, read on.
But don’t worry – for Ginkgo Sex Ed, you won’t need your folks to sign a permission slip like your middle school health class may have required. No awkward or mentally scarring videos here!
Here’s the curriculum:
A Brief Ginkgo Primer
Hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 9, G. biloba is a deciduous tree that typically reaches heights of 50 to 80 feet with a spread 30 to 40 feet, although its millenia-long lifespan under ideal conditions may allow for even greater dimensions.
With green, fan-shaped leaves that turn a gorgeous yellow in fall, the beautiful tree provides some decent shade throughout spring and summer.
These trees are quite ancient, with the oldest discovered fossils dated to be more than 200 million years old.
Informally known as “living fossils,” they’ve hardly changed since the days of the dinosaurs.
As the last surviving member of the ginkgos, G.biloba held out in select pockets of China before humans came along and began to cultivate it elsewhere.
With many geological epochs of adaptation and survival under its belt, G.biloba is super tough, wielding tolerance for air pollution, heat, drought, tight planting spaces, and most soil types.
It doesn’t typically face many pests or diseases, making it one of the most resilient ornamental trees available.
In the landscape, ginkgos are valued for use as specimens, shade trees, urban plantings, and even bonsai!
Similarities Shared by All Ginkgos
Many living organisms exhibit secondary sex characteristics, i.e. sex-distinguishing traits that aren’t directly involved with reproduction, such as sex-specific plumage colors, milk-producing mammary glands, and especially prominent Adam’s apples.
Not ginkgos, though. Aside from the parts directly involved in reproduction, there’s not really an obvious anatomical difference between male and female specimens of the same variety.
The purely ornamental and structural parts of the tree are essentially identical across the sexes.
And here’s the kicker: since the trees take at least 20 years or so to bear reproductive structures for fruiting, it’ll take a G.biloba grower at least two decades to visually tell male and female trees apart.
But plant nurseries worth their salt should label or otherwise let you know of a specimen’s sex before you purchase it.
If you urgently need to know the sex of a young specimen, you could opt for genetic testing.
But that might very well be an expensive hassle that’s either difficult or impossible for the home grower to obtain. Prior to purchase, make sure the vendor knows and informs you of your purchased specimen’s sex!
Differences
If this were a middle school human health class, this would be the point in the sex ed lecture where certain members of the class might erupt with giggles and “ewww”s, especially if there were diagrams involved.
Thankfully, discussing the differences between male and female ginkgos isn’t as awkward.
Male Plants
Technically a gymnosperm, G.biloba begins its reproductive cycle with the male trees, which form clusters of green, cylindrical, one-inch-long catkins in spring.
Spotting these catkins is the gendering giveaway, your cinematic “It’s a boy!” moment.
After their formation, the catkins produce pollen, which the wind carries away.
Some of it is carried away to nowhere important, perhaps ending up on a car windshield or inside the sinuses of a seasonal allergy sufferer.
But other bits of pollen have a more important destiny, and the wind whisks them away towards a lady ginkgo.
Female Plants
While male plants were developing their catkins, the females were forming olive-esque ovules. As the pollen is released, the ovules secrete a liquid that helps to catch the pollen.
Once pollen is caught by an ovule, it develops into a sperm-releasing male gametophyte, which fertilizes the female gametophyte within the ovule.
Post-fertilization, these ovules produce almond-like seeds, which are coated in fleshy, yellow to orange pulp.
Upon dropping to the ground, these fruits often break open in a messy fashion, releasing a malodorous scent that’s akin to vomit, feces, and/or rancid butter.
Typically, G.biloba produces seeds in a 1:1 ratio of males to females.
Meaning, if you were to take one of a tree’s seeds at random and plant it, you’d have a 50:50 shot of ending up with a specimen of your preferred sex.
Which should you prefer, though? Let’s find out.
But first…
An Interesting Intersexual Interjection
In the absence of a nearby ginkgo of the opposite sex, G.biloba has actually been known to change sexes, albeit only slightly.
In rare cases, solitary male specimens have been observed to produce a single ovule-producing female branch, which it can pollinate all by itself. This acts as a reproductive backup plan in the case of having no adjacent trees available to breed with.
Females can do the opposite of this by producing a catkin-flowering branch among the seed-producing ones. But this is even more rare than male sex-changes.
Why do lady ginkgos perform this action less often? Well, from an evolutionary standpoint, here’s a theory that makes a bit of sense:
In a jam, an intersexed male can fertilize its lady parts while still having ample pollen to breed with other trees. But a female in similar circumstances can pollinate a vast amount of its own ovules with just a couple of catkins, severely limiting the amount of external fertilization it can receive.
With inbreeding comes low genetic diversity, which reduces adaptability.
If everyone’s genetically similar, then an environmental stressor that may typically wipe out some of a population is now more likely to wipe out all of the population, since the general population lacks potentially-useful genetic differences that could help the species as a whole survive.
Isn’t nature fascinating? Plus, the rarity of intersex G.biloba makes it all even more exciting, in my opinion.
So Which Should You Plant?
For landscapers, gardeners, or anyone who simply wants a nice ginkgo on their property, the answer is obvious: a male tree.
Why? Because the females produce and drop messy, nasty-smelling fruits that are considered a rank affront to olfactory receptors everywhere, at least by many people.
If you’re a ginkgo breeder, though, or otherwise need to produce some G.biloba seed to harvest, then you’ll obviously need some gal ginkgos to go along with the guy.
But depending on local regulations or how prone to being irritated your neighbors are, you may not really have the option of growing a female tree in the first place.
If you’re stuck with an unwanted female tree, you could look into growth-regulating sprays that prevent fruit set, such as this gallon of Florel Fruit Eliminator, available on Amazon.
Washington, DC has found success with this sort of treatment – thanks to a special clearance from the EPA, the city sprays its female ginkgos every year with a potato sprout inhibitor, which is harmless to humans but can make short work of fruiting.
But even if you manage to apply such a product across the entire crown once flowering starts – a tough endeavor, especially with large trees – fruit prevention is never a guarantee.
So if the fruit smell and litter of a female tree simply must go, then removing the tree is the only foolproof way.
A Battle of the (Ginkgo) Sexes
Speaking as a post-pubescent dude writing this, I’m well aware that boys often reek.
It’s an unfortunate aspect of being a human male, a putrid part of our nature that guys must suppress so that our society doesn’t smell like a sweaty pair of boxer shorts.
But the way that male ginkgos are less smelly than their female counterparts, across the board… I simply must tip my hat in respect.You did it, boys. You did the impossible.
Have any questions or comments to share? The comments section awaits.
Growing winter squash used to intimidate me, but after successfully growing it for several seasons, it has become one of my favorite crops. I’m sharing my best tips for successfully growing winter squash, even in hot climates like the low desert of Arizona. In this article, you will learn how to grow winter squash, which varieties to choose, how to care for your plants, and the best times to harvest.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
A little bit about winter squash
Have you ever what the differences are between winter squash and summer squash?
Unlike summer squash, winter squash has a thick rind that allows it to be stored for longer periods of time. Many types of winter squash can last well into the winter months.
Another distinguishing feature of winter squash is its separate seed cavity, similar to a pumpkin, one of the most well-known types of winter squash. In contrast, summer squash has seeds distributed throughout the fruit.
Additionally, the flavor of winter squash improves as it grows and cures, while summer squash is best eaten when harvested young.
Although growing winter squash is similar to growing summer squash, more attention is needed. Winter squash requires more space, time, water, and food to grow well.
9 Tips for How to Grow Winter Squash
1. Give winter squash plenty of time to grow
Winter squash needs three months or more of frost-free temperatures. Both the fruit and the vines are frost sensitive. Plant seeds directly in the garden 1-2 weeks after the last frost.
Ensure the soil is warm before planting the seeds – about 65°F (18.3°C) or higher, generally, at least two weeks after your last spring frost date.
Plant the seeds ½ in (1.27cm) deep and at least 8 in (20cm) apart, then water them daily until they sprout.
Winter squash may require a long growing season (90+ days) depending on the variety. If you have a short growing season or would rather start seeds indoors. Plant seeds in 4 in(10cm) pots 2-4 weeks before your outside planting date. Do not let seedlings get pot-bound; transplant very carefully once the soil warms up.
In the low desert of Arizona, there are two planting widows for winter squash. Plant winter squash early in the spring, from mid-February to March, and again when the monsoon moisture comes in July and August.
Established fruit on winter squash will ripen in temperatures up to 100℉, but pollen often won’t be viable to produce new fruit. Choose smaller types and short-season varieties for the best chance of success when growing winter squash in Arizona.
A note about how to grow pumpkins in Arizona:
Regular-sized pumpkins may be planted in either February or March or again when the monsoon moisture comes in July and early August.
Pumpkins are a type of winter squash. Follow the winter squash planting tips below to grow pumpkins.
2. Plant different varieties depending on your situation
There are dozens of varieties of winter squash; choose the best one for your location, taste, and garden size.
Not a lot of room? Try bush or more compact varieties. My favorite bush type is Gold Nugget.
Shorter growing season? Grow smaller types and look for varieties with shorter days to harvest. My favorite short-season winter squash is Delicata.
Not a fan of the taste or texture of certain types? Become familiar with the tastes, and grow one you like to eat! My favorite type to eat is Butternut.
Have diseases been a problem in the past? Choose resistant varieties such as Acorn Squash.
“Baby” Spaghetti Squash – a smaller variety with a short “days to harvest”
What about gourds?
Gourds and winter squash have distinct differences in their usage, appearance, edibility, growing season, and shelf life.
Gourds are generally used for decorative purposes, have a bitter taste, and come in various shapes.
On the other hand, winter squash is edible, has a delicious flavor, and is more consistent in appearance.
Generally, gourds take longer to grow and have a longer shelf life than winter squash.
Birdhouse gourd – an ornamental gourd.
3. Give winter squash room to grow
Plants grow large and can quickly take over a garden. Grow winter squash along the edge of the garden so they can spill outward. Direct growing vines away from other plants as they grow.
Additionally, train vines up tall ladders and arbors; get creative and find ways to give the growing vines plenty of room and airflow. When grown vertically, larger fruit will benefit from some sort of melon cradle.
Choose a location to grow winter squash that gets 6-8 hours of sun.
The soil should be loose to a depth of 1 foot.
Rotate each year where you plant to help prevent pests and diseases. Do not plant in the same place that other squash, cucumbers or melons were the previous season.
Sow 2-3 seeds about an inch deep.
Sow seeds in hills at least 2 feet apart, preferably up to 4-5 feet apart.
Thin to the strongest seedling when plants are 2-3 inches tall by snipping other plants. Never pull on the roots as it may disrupt the other seedlings.
If usingsquare foot gardening, plant winter squash on the outside edge of a bed allowing 2-4 square feet per plant.
4. Supply winter squash with plenty of water
Winter squash plants are happiest with heavy and even watering. Winter squash are typically big plants with big fruit that need a lot of water.
Once plants are 3-4 inches tall, mulch plants well to hold in moisture.
Water slowly and deeply once the top 2 inches of soil has dried out.
Water the soil (not the leaves and vines) to help prevent powdery mildew.
Leaves may wilt in the afternoon sun but recover once temperatures cool. This is heat stress, not water stress.
If squash leaves are wilted in the morning, they need water as soon as possible.
5. Feed winter squash regularly
Plant winter squash in rich, well-draining soil amended with plenty of compost. Work plenty of compost into the soil. When plants begin to blossom and set fruit, feed them with a liquid organic fertilizer or organic granular fertilizer. Feed plants about once a month during the growing season.
6. Be patient when waiting for female blossoms, and hand-pollinate if necessary
Each winter squash plant develops male and female flowers. The way to differentiate between male and female blossoms is by looking at the base of the flower. Male blossoms have a single long stem, while female blossoms have small swollen fruit.
Typically, male blossoms appear first and in large numbers, followed by female blossoms in a few days or weeks.
If you find female fruits are withering and not developing into fruit, consider hand pollinating the female blossoms. This can be done by carefully removing a male blossom, peeling back the petals, and transferring the pollen to the stigma of the female blossom.
Hand pollination of winter squash
7. Stay ahead of common pests and diseases
Healthy soil, planting at the right time, correct watering, and keeping your plants healthy are the best defenses against pests and diseases. Here are more tips to keep your winter squash pest and disease free:
Squash bug eggs (left) and squash bug
Check the underside of leaves daily for signs of squash bugs, borers, and cucumber beetles. Handpick bugs and dispose of eggs.
Spaghetti squash on plant supports to prevent pest damage.
Allow enough room for plants to grow freely; good air circulation helps prevent powdery mildew. At the first sign of mildew, remove affected leaves and spray with a sulfur or baking soda solution.
Use row coverswhen plants are young to protect against insects.
Plant radishes around the plant to deter pests; allow the radishes to flower and remain in place throughout the season.
Keep the garden picked up and free from debris that may harbor pests and diseases.
Powdery Mildew on Leaves
8. Harvest winter squash correctly
Winter squash should be allowed to stay on the vine until fully mature. Winter squash is ready to harvest when the skin of the squash cannot be dented with a fingernail and when the stems shrivel and begin to die.
Do not leave the fruit on the plant too long, or it may split.
If you live in an area with frost, harvest before the first hard frost. If there is a light frost, harvest all fruit right away.
Cut the fruit from the vines leaving 2-3 inches of stem. Do not carry fruit by the stem, as it may break off. Squash without stems does not store as well.
Wee be little pumpkins
9. Cure and store winter squash properly
Leave winter squash on the ground to cure for about ten days after harvesting. Sunshine toughens the skin and makes fruit sweeter. If high heat or frost makes curing outside impossible, let winter squash cure by a sunny window in your home for two weeks.
Wipe dirt off fruit, but do not spray off. If desired, use a Clorox wipe to lightly wipe off to help prevent rot during storage. Store in a cool, well-ventilated area for up to 6 months.
Check squash frequently during storage. Use or dispose of any soft squash right away.
Winter squash that began to rot in storage
If this post about how to grow winter squash was helpful, please share it:
I loved this video! David gave a brilliant explanation as to why gardeners should save seeds, touching on several points that are relevant to the average backyard gardener.
My local climate in a high altitude of Pennsylvania can be challenging for growing some types of veg. I’ve learned that saving and growing seeds year after year produces better results both in plant health and harvest size. I save seed from broccoli, kale, pak choy, parsley, beans, peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, okra, taters, and some flowers.
Another advantage of the seed-saving process is that when you let your plants go to flower, it draws in pollinators and Enemies of Bad Bugs. I love watching hundreds of them swarming the clouds of flowers before the plants go to seed. I have very little pest pressure in my backyard garden and maybe it’s partly because of the support that the flowering plants provide for the tiny assassins.
I was glad to hear David mention the book ‘Landrace Gardening’ as it’s at the top of my book list to buy.
Also coincidently, I’m growing Seminole pumpkin for the first time this year, hoping to save seed and that it will adapt to the conditions of my land. I’ve successfully grown cempazuchil (true wild marigolds native to Mexico, used in Day of the Dead observances) which take months to start blooming, in my short-season region by saving and regrowing seeds of the first blooming flowers.One particular lettuce that I’ve been growing for five years has become my “pet” veggie. It popped up one early spring day in a pot that had been left outside all winter, probably the lone survivor of a lettuce mixture from a packet of seeds from the dollar store. I let some go to seed, saving some and also letting seed release into the area. It’s a big, beautiful red/green deer-tongue type of lettuce. It’s delicious, even when warm weather turns other lettuces cranky and bitter, and slow to bolt. And oh man, is it prolific! It grows everywhere, popping up in the lawn, other garden beds, under fruit trees. Although I still save its seed, I don’t have to anymore because it magically appears each spring. Reminds me of manna.
Lisa left that comment on this video:
She’s having success adapting seeds to her climate, using the same techniques we use here and Joseph Lofthouse uses in Utah.
Though I can’t always share gardening information specific to each climate in which my various viewers are located, we do use a lot of principles and techniques that apply universally. The Grocery Row Garden system is universal, as is Landrace Gardening. Composting, single row gardening, etc., are also universal.
Work with the climate God gave you, adapt your plantings to it, and use what you can of the advice you get on YouTube and in books. We’ve learned from gardeners in the tropics and gardeners in the far north, gardeners in arid climates and gardeners in the rain forest. Eat the meat, spit out the bones.
Oftentimes, we gardeners are met with a dilemma – I’m talking about the burden of too much homegrown produce. (Yeah, don’t expect anyone’s pity for this predicament!)
When harvests of a seemingly endless supply of cucumbers, zucchini, or tomatoes have us wondering who else besides friends, family, and neighbors we can bestow this excess upon, the next logical thing to ponder should be, “Can I preserve some of this bounty for later?”
Well, of course we can! And dehydrating is one of the easiest ways to do just that!
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If slaving over a hot stove to can endless jars of tomatoes or pickles doesn’t sound that appealing to you during the dog days of summer, drying your homegrown produce may just be the solution you need to keep some of this abundance for later use.
Once you have the basics down, dehydration is an easy skill that will come in handy as long as you continue to cultivate your garden – as well as when you’re on the lookout for screaming deals on bulk produce at the farmers market or grocery store.
In this article we’re going to cover all the steps of dehydrating produce. By the time you finish reading, you’ll feel ready to preserve your bounteous homegrown fruits and vegetables like a pro.
Here’s what we’ll discuss:
Why Dehydrate Produce?
There are many reasons why gardeners may want to learn to dry their homegrown produce, a process which removes moisture in order to prevent food from spoiling.
Dehydrating a bumper crop – baskets of cucumbers, buckets of tomatoes, bushels of apricots – is one way to put up food for later use.
But there are other reasons as well!
Some crops, like tomatoes, take on a new flavor profile when they’re dried. Ever tried sun-dried tomatoes? They are quite different in taste than either fresh or cooked tomatoes.
And then there are fruits like apples which, when dried, become concentrated bursts of sweetness.
Another reason you might want a stock of dried fruits or vegetables on hand is that being lightweight, these make a great food source when traveling, hiking, or camping. For instance, 14 pounds of tomatoes can be dried to just half a pound.
There’s a final benefit to knowing how to dehydrate fruits and vegetables that is particularly close to my heart – or gut, rather.
Those of us with food sensitivities may have a hard time finding particular varieties that we can tolerate, or additive-free dried foods to purchase.
Making one’s own dehydrated fruits and veggies can help expand one’s eating possibilities throughout the year – and this is truly a godsend when dealing with a restricted diet.
So, that’s it for my pep talk! If you weren’t already, hopefully now you are really motivated to learn this skill! And finally, it’s time to get down to business.
What Fruits and Vegetables Can Be Dehydrated?
If you can grow it, it’s quite likely it can be dehydrated!
Now that you have an idea of the vast array of produce you may wish to preserve, let’s look at the different moisture removal methods at your disposal.
Different Types of Drying Methods
Before we share our tips for preparing food for dehydration, let’s first take a look at several different ways to dry fruits and vegetables from the garden for long term storage.
We’ll start with the most low-tech and cheapest options, and work our way towards the more high-tech and expensive.
Air Drying
Air drying is a minimalist, energy-free approach that harnesses nothing more than air movement to do the job – and it’s great for those of us who are trying to limit our environmental impact by reducing energy consumption.
This is an ideal method for dehydrating homegrown herbs, medicinal plants, and herbal teas, and freshly-picked ingredients can be spread out on a mesh screen or hung from string to assist the moisture removal process.
And if you live in a hot, arid climate, this method can also be used for dehydrating hot peppers.
In regions such as the southwestern US, where relative humidity typically remains under 60 percent, temperatures are warm, and there is plenty of air movement, this method makes a lot of sense.
Mushrooms can also be dehydrated in this manner.
When air-drying hot peppers, aromatic or medicinal herbs, and mushrooms indoors, this method will work best during the summer in buildings that aren’t air conditioned, but instead have natural ventilation via open windows.
But this technique can also be used outdoors in protected, shady locations – using the sun to assist in this process will be our next method.
Sliced mushrooms, herbs, and whole hot peppers can be spread out in a single layer on plates, or on racks specifically designed for this purpose, such as this four-tiered model from Gardener’s Supply.
This pine rack holds four flat, woven bamboo baskets that are set five inches apart from each other, providing excellent air circulation.
Another option for drying hot peppers is to string them on a thread ristrastyle and hang them somewhere that is warm, dry, and well-ventilated.
Chile pepper ristras.
Just remember when working with hot peppers that it’s a good idea to wear gloves!
Processing times for mushrooms, herbs, and hot peppers will vary depending on conditions, ranging from a few days to a few weeks.
Sun Drying
Another energy-free option that works best in arid climates is sun drying. This works best for fruits, and not as well for vegetables.
Why, you might ask?
Fruits can be sun-dried successfully because of their high sugar and acid content, while vegetables tend to spoil too easily with this method. There are exceptions, of course – and we’ll certainly be considering a tomato a fruit in this case! Sun-dried tomatoes, anyone?
This method, sometimes referred to as “direct solar drying,” is similar to the previous one, but foods are placed outside in full sun for this process rather than being kept in the shade.
Bananas in a sun dryer.
Pieces of produce should be arranged in a single layer, and exposed to direct sun and warm winds. To protect produce from insects, place beneath a mesh covering.
In some locations, this easily accessible method is carried out by simply laying a tarp on the ground and spreading out a layer of fruits on the tarp.
Fruits treated in this way will likely need several days in the sun to reach full dehydration.
After foods are dry, pasteurize them to kill insects or insect eggs by placing them in an oven preheated to 160°F for half an hour, or freezing them at 0°F for two days.
If foods were contained under mesh or some other protection during the process, you may be able to skip the pasteurization step.
Indirect Solar Drying
Indirect solar drying is another option that can be used for both fruits and vegetables, and it can be implemented in humid as well as arid climates.
With this method, the sun isn’t desiccating the fruits and vegetables directly. Instead, it does so indirectly.
Produce is placed on mesh sheets, much as you would expect to find in an electric dehydrator (we’ll get to those shortly.)
Indirect solar dehydrator. Photo by Claudio Tennie, Wikimedia Commons, via Public Domain.
But rather than getting hot air from an electric source, a black surface positioned at an angle heats air coming in through a glass panel, then the hot air passes over the food and leaves through a vent.
That means these contraptions can be used on days that are sunny but cold, and in climates that are too humid for dehydrating directly under the sun.
The downside to this method is that it will only be accessible to those with the DIY skills (or initiative!) to build their own devices, since these are not widely available for purchase currently.
Oven Drying
Our next method uses a piece of equipment that you are likely to already have in your home – an oven!
However, before deciding to try this technique, it’s important to make sure your oven can maintain a temperature between 140 and 150°F. Higher temperatures will cause the outside of the food to form a crust, preventing the moisture inside from escaping, and resulting in a failed batch of dried foods.
Some ovens can only be set as low as 170°F, and if that’s the case with your kitchen appliance, you’ll need to consider another method.
But even if your oven can be set at the desired 140°F, it’s a good idea to test it and make sure the oven is really holding at that temperature.
To test your appliance, use an oven thermometer, such as the Taylor Precision Products Large 2.5-Inch Dial Kitchen Cooking Oven Thermometer, available at Amazon.
Perform this test by hanging the thermometer in the middle of the oven, then turn on the oven and set it somewhere (your choice!) between 140 and 150°F. Place racks three inches apart, and leave the oven door cracked open two to six inches.
Allow the oven to heat up for 20 minutes before checking the thermometer.
If the thermometer reading is accurate, you’re good to go. If it’s reading higher than the desired temperature of 140 to 150°F, consider some of the other options presented in this article.
You may also want to avoid this method for safety reasons if there are children or mischievous pets in your household who may want to explore an oven left slightly open.
Once you’ve determined this is a viable option, there are a couple of ways you can use your oven to dehydrate food.
The first way is to place the produce on baking trays lined with parchment paper.
The other way to use your oven as a dehydrator is to place the fruits and vegetables on a specially designed rack such as this handmade oak rack.
With four trays topped with fiberglass screens, the Sun and Oven Food Drying Rack is made in the USA, and available for purchase via Lehman’s.
Here are a few tips for preserving food in this way with an oven:
Keep the oven door open to ventilate moist air
Leave 3 inches of space between oven trays
Preheat the oven to 140-150°F
Convection ovens work better because they have a fan built in to move air
One of the downsides to this technique is that ovens are big energy users compared to dedicated electric dehydrators, so if you’re feeling committed to your food preservation endeavors, you may want to consider the next option instead.
Electric Dehydrators
If you plan to preserve more produce than will fit on your oven racks or you want to be able to dehydrate without worrying about the whims of the weather, an electric dehydrator is an excellent investment.
If the weather cools down, night falls, or a rain shower passes through, an electric option will keep on doing its job.
And because these models blow hot air over the produce, they can be filled densely, processing a lot of food at once in a small amount of space.
With this method, spread produce in a single layer across the dedicated mesh sheets, load the racks into the electric dehydrator, and set the temperature and processing time as indicated in the user manual.
My own trusty dehydrator of choice is the Excalibur 9-Tray Economy Model.
It doesn’t have a timer, but this hasn’t been a problem for me personally – I just set a timer on my phone or make a mental note of what time I need to check my racks of dehydrating fruits or veggies.
This model can be adjusted between 105 and 165°F. It has nine trays which provide 15 square feet of processing capacity, is made in the USA, and comes with a five-year limited warranty.
Up to this point, we have contemplated five different methods of preserving food through moisture removal. This final method removes moisture in a different way than dehydration – I’m talking about freeze-drying.
While this article aims to provide you with a guide to dehydrating produce, which is different from freeze-drying, I thought it worthwhile to provide you with some of the basics of this method as well.
Freeze-dryers, as their name suggests, subject food to freezing temperatures, then use a vacuum pump to remove the air and water vapor from the chamber.
So that’s the difference in the process, but what about the difference between the finished products?
First, the moisture content in dehydrated foods is removed by up to 95 percent, while that of freeze-dried foods is removed by up to 99 percent. This results in a significant difference in texture.
Freeze-dried strawberries.
While dehydrated fruits and vegetables have a solid, sometimes leathery texture, freeze dried produce is extremely airy – it feels like it will easily crumble between your fingers if you press hard, and it will!
Beyond the textural differences, there are pros and cons to this method. Let’s consider the negatives first.
Freeze-dryers use more energy than electric dehydrators. They are significantly larger and heavier, often weighing 100 pounds or more. And some models require regular upkeep because their vacuum pumps require oil.
These machines are fairly noisy, producing a noise similar to that made by vacuum cleaners. They need to be elevated so that the moisture removed from the food can drain with gravity’s help. They are also significantlypricier than electric dehydrators.
They are also slower than electric dehydrators, with a single batch requiring 20 to 52 hours, depending on the type of produce.
But of course, there are plenty of positives as well.
With freeze-dryers, the shapes and colors of the foods are retained better than with dehydrators, and when stored properly, foods will last much longer – up to 25 years, according to some estimates.
Freeze-dried produce also has extremely concentrated flavors, and using powders made from freeze-dried foods can be a fun way to add bursts of flavor to homemade culinary creations.
If you decide to pursue this avenue of preserving food, the Harvest Right Home Freeze Dryer is a model you’ll want to check out that comes in medium, large, or extra-large sizes.
Ready to splurge on the food preservation machine of your dreams? You can find the Harvest Right Home Freeze Dryer available for purchase via Lehman’s.
Prepping Produce for Drying
Now that you’re aware of the many options you have when it comes to the way in which you might dry garden produce, let’s look at the details of how to actually proceed, starting with preparing produce for its transformation into a long-keeping foodstuff.
To start with, choose produce that is at peak ripeness and quality, and prepare it for moisture removal as soon after harvest as possible.
Trimming and Slicing
After washing your produce well and patting it try with towels or allowing it to air dry, remove any seeds or peels you don’t want to eat once the food is dehydrated. (However, if you’re going to blanch it – and we’ll get to that step shortly – there’s no need to pat it dry.)
Next, in general, you’ll want to cut chunks or slices that are 1/8 to 1/2 inch thick – however, there are exceptions.
Higher-moisture foods like cucumbers and watermelons need to be thicker. If you’re using an electric dehydrator, check your user manual for the recommended thickness of your selected fruit or vegetable.
Cut pieces that are the same thickness, so the slices will finish drying at around the same time.
Blanching
Once the produce is cut into properly sized slices or chunks, you may want to consider blanching vegetables and certain fruits. This isn’t obligatory, but I’ll let you know why you might want to take this step.
Since we’re getting the produce wetter before drying it, blanching may sound counterintuitive. But this step actually speeds up the moisture removal process since blanching allows moisture to escape from produce more quickly.
And that’s not the only benefit – blanching vegetables stops enzymes from breaking the food down.
Fruit with waxy skins like grapes, blueberries, cherries, figs, and cranberries need to be dipped in boiling water before processing to allow moisture to escape.
Herbs don’t require blanching and neither do garlic, onions, or peppers.
To blanch your produce, heat water to boiling, dip trimmed and cut produce into the boiling water for the recommended amount of time, then move the produce to an ice water bath to cool it off.
Each type of vegetable will have a different amount of time recommended for blanching – generally between one and five minutes.
For waxy-skinned fruits, dip them in boiling water for just 30 to 60 seconds, then cool in a bowl of ice water.
Pretreating
After blanching, there’s an additional step that some food preservationists like to take before drying fruit – pretreating it in an acid bath.
Make a solution of equal parts bottled lemon juice and water for this, and soak fruits in the solution for 10 minutes prior to drying.
This step will help fruits like apples, pears, peaches, and apricots retain their color and lengthen shelf life.
However, you are free to skip this step for simplicity’s sake – it’s not obligatory.
Tips for Dehydrating Produce
Now that you know what you can dehydrate, the different methods, and how to prep your produce, let’s go over some tips for the moment that you’re ready to lay out your slices of produce and let them start giving up their moisture in the name of longevity.
First of all, successful moisture removal requires good air circulation, so you’ll want to lay food out in a single layer.
Next, when it comes to setting the temperature on your device, hotter isn’t necessarily better. As previously discussed, hot temperatures can desiccate the outer layer of the food too quickly, sealing in moisture.
If you’re using a machine, follow the guidelines in your user manual. In general, 125 to 140°F is a good temperature range for most fruits and vegetables.
For those using ovens, preheat to 140 to 150°F, then reduce to 140°F if possible.
The amount of time needed to dry a batch of fruits or vegetables will depend on which method you’re using, as well as the thickness of the pieces or slices.
Electric dehydrators will come with a manual and should include processing times for each type of fruit or vegetable.
For instance, my Excalibur calls for seven to 15 hours at 135°F for apple slices.
For air or solar drying, the process will usually take three days or longer, depending on the produce and the weather conditions.
If dehydrating in an oven, times will vary depending on the fruit or vegetable and its thickness.
Processing in an oven can take two to three times longer than processing in a dehydrator if the oven doesn’t have a fan.
Depending on the oven, apples may only take a few hours, while juicy fruits such as peaches may take up to 24 hours.
Check the food for doneness – dried fruits should be bendable but not sticky, while vegetables should be crisp or even brittle.
Fruits can also be dried to brittleness if that’s your preference!
Next, you’ll want to take a step called “conditioning.”
This process helps ensure that food is uniformly dry. If too much moisture remains, mold can be a problem, and it may ruin a whole jar of food.
To condition your dehydrated produce, store it in an airtight container and shake it daily for a week. If you notice moisture buildup in the container at any point, return the food to the dehydrator for a bit more processing.
If no moisture buildup is noticeable after a week passes, the food can be packaged for long term storage, unless you’d like to pasteurize it first.
When should you pasteurize your produce? If the fruits and vegetables could have been contaminated by insects while dehydrating – such as may have happened if they were outdoors during this process.
To pasteurize the preserved food, either place it on a baking sheet and heat it in an oven set to 160°F for half an hour, or place it in a container in a freezer set at 0°F or lower for 48 hours.
Storing Dehydrated Produce
Dried produce should be packaged in airtight containers and stored in a dark location that is on the cool side – between 60 and 80°F is the ideal temperature range.
As for storage containers, I like to use wide mouth mason jars for this purpose, such as these 16-ounce mason jars from Ball.
They’re available for purchase in packs of three from the Ball Store via Amazon.
To help keep produce mold-free while in storage, desiccant packets can be added to the jars. These are particularly helpful if you live in a more humid climate.
I like to save desiccant packs from jars of supplements for this reason, but food-grade moisture absorbers can also be purchased expressly for this purpose.
You can purchase a 60-pack of food-grade moisture absorbers from the Wisedry Store via Amazon.
While most references advise using dehydrated food within six to 12 months for the best quality, in reality, dehydrated foods can last much longer, especially when stored in ideal conditions.
If a container of dried fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, or herbs develops mold or off-flavors, discard the entire container of food.
A Plenty of Preserved Produce
The aim of this article was to provide you with a guide to get you started with preserving the bounty of your garden with dehydration.
For more details, including handy guides to food processing times, we recommend checking out “The Ultimate Dehydrator Cookbook: The Complete Guide to Drying Food, Plus 398 Recipes, Including Making Jerky, Fruit Leather & Just-Add-Water Meals” by Tammy Gangloff, Steven Gangloff, and September Ferguson, available via Amazon.
Now that you have the tools you need to start preserving your garden produce in this way, let us know what plentiful crops you’re planning to preserve!
Do you have any further questions about the dehydration process or any of your own tips you’d like to share with our readers? Let us know in the comments section below.
Want to keep exploring how you can preserve the abundance of the garden? Read more right here:
It’s a lovely June, and the summer heat is starting to come in.
With it, the gardens are racing – especially the plants from the tropical regions of the globe.
Today I’ll share a few photos I took on my wife’s phone this morning.
First, here are some scarlet runner beans:
We grew these in the past, but gave up on them as non-productive in our North Florida gardens. However, they are beautiful so we’re trying again for the first time in a decade or so. Perhaps they’ll do better here in Lower Alabama. In Florida they’d bloom a lot without setting more than a few seeds here and there.
On the other hand, we’re overflowing with cucumbers. Yesterday we put up 16 jars of dill pickles, plus I have 2.5 gallons of relish in the fridge waiting to be finished up and canned.
And the cukes just keep on coming…
These cucumbers are a mix of various pickling types, some from newly purchased seed, others from the seed we saved from last year. Landrace style.
Like the watermelons, which are now fruiting all over the Grocery Row Gardens.
There are melons that look like Sugar Baby, some that look like Charleston Grey, some that look like your standard Walmart-style melons… and mixes in between. This is the third year my son has been mixing up varieties and crossing them and the vigor in this year’s vines is incredible.
Here’s a look at the saddest part of the garden – the potato patch.
It’s done for this year and it’s time to plow it under and plant something else. Perhaps okra, or maybe some pumpkin hills. It’s getting much later than when we normally plant pumpkins, but I met the co-owner of Mae Day Farm, which is within an hour of us, and he told me they’re growing Seminoles by planting them in July. It’s worth trying.
The zinnias are everywhere now, which reminds me it’s time to cut a few more for the table.
There’s a lot of diversity in the Grocery Row Garden, from onions to cucumbers to cassava to tobacco to cannas and sunflowers, goji berries, mulberries, apples, herbs, roots and more…
The herb garden by the back patio is starting to fill in nicely.
We mixed in some wildflowers, some dahlias, and a Liatris with the herbs to make the space prettier.
Less pretty is the mess of pumpkin vines that have run wild out of the old compost pile.
Yet we don’t mind the productivity when the pumpkins start to roll in!
Our patch of carrots is still growing strong, and we’re getting them when we want them.
And the cassava is really growing now.
The onions are growing but not doing great. I’ve never been good at growing bulbing onions. I don’t even know why we try.
Especially when the tropical plants grow so well in the hot, Alabama summers.
Have a great Tuesday. We’re running all over town today, taking care of errands and catching up around the homestead.
It’s about time to do some more garden work, but we’ll wait for the cool of the evening to do that. It’s been hot and humid lately, without enough rain. Fortunately, we got all the Grocery Row Gardens mulched before the rain dried up for a week.
At the Chelsea Flower Show last month one plant kept popping up again and again, dotted through show gardens and on nursery stands and displays. Atriplex hortensis—or orache—is an edible salad crop that is increasingly being grown in borders, too, and at Chelsea it was used as a bold vertical accent amidst summer perennials. But its most distinguishing characteristic may be its deep purple and bronze foliage, which can provide a foil to softer pastel flowers and green leaves—and bring drama to each space.
Dark leaved plants add vital depth and interest to planting schemes and can be deployed in myriad ways. Here are seven ideas for using them to dazzling effect.
Photography by Clare Coulson, unless otherwise noted.
Above: There’s possibly no finer bronze foliage than that of shade-loving epimedium which has delicate heart shaped leaves surrounding exquisitely pretty flowers. The spreading plant makes excellent ground cover. Cut the evergreen foliage back in spring to ensure a fresh mound of foliage.
3. Clip a structural dome.
Above: Many dark colored shrubs lend themselves to being clipped into neat topiary shapes. Pittosporum tenufolium ‘Tom Thumb’ is perfect for mild areas and has gorgeous glossy purple evergreen leaves while fast growing (and hardier) copper beech has larger silky leaves that emerge bronze before going darker over summer.
4. Deploy statement leaves.
Above: Rodgersia ‘Bronze Peacock’ has large palmate leaves that, as the name suggests, are a stunning color as they emerge before turning green in summer, when tall pink flowers emerge. Perfectly for dappled shade where the light can make the most of its exquisite foliage.
5. Paint a border with heucheras.
Above: Perfect for a slightly shady spot, heucheras come in hundreds of painterly shades including coppery tints through to bronze and deepest purple including ‘Obsidian’ and ‘Plum Pudding’; ‘Bronze Beauty’ has delicious palmate foliage with tall cream flowers in late summer.
My name is Megan, and I live in Kentish Town, North London, England. When we moved into our house, our garden was a total shambles—crumbly brick walls, broken trellises, and rotted decking. We now have a little oasis with a combination of formal planting and bright colors.
Though usually grown for its colorful foliage, coral bells (Heuchera hybrids, Zones 5–9) has clouds of small flowers that can be quite lovely as well.
It’s hard to beat a perfect dahlia (Dahlia hybrid, Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb) with its layer upon layer of perfect white petals unfolding. Dahlias are equally beautiful in the garden or in a vase indoors.
The dark container makes these beautiful white lobelias (Lobeliaerinus, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) seem even brighter.
The garden is home not just to beautiful flowers—these foxes enjoy the space as well! I hope they do their part to keep hungry rabbits and other pests away.
Cranesbill, or hardy geranium (Geranium hybrid, Zones 5–9) is a wonderful perennial. It’s easy to care for and has clouds of beautiful blue flowers.
This gorgeous array of tulips is mixed with heuchera and primroses (Primula hybrid, Zones 3–8).
If you want to see more from Megan, check out her Instagram: @sproutandabout__
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Here you can again see the blooming ligustrum in the background, with the false cypress (
