Daffodil (Narcissus spp.) bulbs are hardy in cold weather and easily survive freezing winters in the ground – but there are those situations when you may want to lift your bulbs and store them until it’s time to replant.
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For example, if your garden is in an area warmer than Zone 9 and beyond their hardiness range, they’ll need several weeks of artificial cold treatment in the refrigerator to bloom again.
Or perhaps you have an overgrown clump that needs dividing, or you simply want to reuse their growing spot, adding fresh color from bedding plants or summer flowers.
Whatever your reasons, it’s easy to dig up, cure, and store bulbs so they’ll bloom again next year!
Here’s what you’ll find up ahead:
How and When to Lift Daffodil Bulbs
For strong, vibrant bulbs with an abundance of flowers, it’s important to allow the long, strappy leaves to mature, turn yellow, and die off in their own time.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
Cutting back the green foliage robs the bulbs of vital energy collected through photosynthesis, which is needed for them to grow large and healthy so that they will survive dormancy.
For the best results, deadhead faded flowers promptly to concentrate energy into the bulbs.
The dying foliage can look a little messy, but it’s short-lived as it typically dies off about six weeks after they finish flowering.
Once the foliage is brown and dry, cut it away at soil level.
To lift, use a spade or trowel inserted several inches away from the bulbs to carefully lift a large clump of bulbs and soil – taking a generous margin of soil helps to prevent accidental bulb damage.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
Shake the clump and use your fingers to crumble away the soil. Gently pull the bulbs apart.
Lay them in a warm, dry location out of direct sunlight for a few hours to dry the surfaces.
Once they’re dry to touch, brush away any remaining soil with your fingers or a soft brush, taking care to retain the brown, papery covering (the tunic) and discarding any stock that’s damaged, moldy, or soft.
Trim the roots close to the basal plate with clean, sharp scissors or garden shears. Trimming the roots helps to prevent early growth while still in storage.
Bulbs can be dug up any time after the foliage is dead and prior to the ground freezing.
But if you need to give them an artificial cold spell in the fridge, allow up to 14 weeks of chill time before replanting in fall.
Cure Before Storage
Before storing, it’s helpful to cure them for about a week.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
Curing is useful for removing excess moisture, which extends a bulb’s storage life and helps to prevent issues like bacterial rot and mold.
To cure, lay them on a large, flat piece of cardboard, a screen, or a tray in a single layer. Place in a warm, dry location out of direct sunlight and with good air circulation.
For even drying, rotate the bulbs 90 degrees every day for a week and then place them in storage.
How to Store
Once the bulbs are cured, it’s helpful to sprinkle them with a natural fungicide like garden sulfur to further inhibit disease and pests.
You can find Bonide Sulfur Plant Fungicide in one- or four-pound options at Arbico Organics.
If you’re storing multiple types, be sure to note each cultivar’s name on the containers.
For short term storage of up to six weeks, place them in a mesh/net bag or open-weave basket or bin in a cool, dry location away from drafts and heat sources.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
If they’re going to be stored for several months, place them in a paper bag, basket, or bin, nestled so they’re not touching into some coconut coir, peat moss, or sawdust from untreated lumber – the packing material creates a little buffer and helps to prevent the bulbs from drying out too much.
Close the bags loosely and leave lids off of bins to prevent condensation. Place them in a cool, dark, and dry location like a cellar, garage, or shed.
The ideal temperature range for storage is 55 to 65°F, but they can take temperatures as low as 40°F.
Before planting, check them again and discard any that have gone soft or moldy.
Time to Chill Out
If your bulbs don’t receive an adequate number of chill hours outdoors – at least 10 to 14 weeks in temperatures ranging from 35 to 45°F – they can chill in the refrigerator before planting.
Daffodils are fall-planted, sown from early September to mid-December, depending on your region.
To figure out when to start chilling, determine your planting date, then count backwards to decide when your bulb stock should start its cold spell.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
Chill bulbs in a peat-lined paper bag in the crisper drawer away from foods, particularly fruits, which emit ethylene gas that can be harmful to flower production.
Easy-care perennials, there are times when you need to lift your narcissus – and knowing how to dig, cure, and store daffodil bulbs ensures an abundance of healthy flowers next year!
Remember to wait for the foliage to die back for plump, vibrant bulbs.
After carefully lifting, cure them for up to a week to remove excess moisture that can cause problems in storage.
Then tuck them away for a rest period in a cool, dark, and dry spot until it’s time to chill them artificially or replant in fall.
When you need to lift your bulbs, take these few easy steps after flowering and you’ll love the results come spring!
Have you tried this technique? Did it work for you, or do you have tips to share? Feel free to leave us a message in the comments – we love hearing from you!
After about forty hours of work, it’s finally done:
VIDEO DESCRIPTION
Leo and Sherry wanted to grow an organic garden, so we jumped in and helped them plant a Grocery Row Garden.
Today you’ll learn how to start a Grocery Row Garden from scratch and turn a lawn into a garden step by step in this feature-length presentation. If you’ve wanted to start a food forest or make a vegetable garden or plant an orchard… why not combine all three in this exciting permaculture gardening method? Learn how to pick the right fruit tree, plant potatoes, grow herbs, mix perennials and annuals, companion plant the easy way, prune trees, create raised beds, and turn a lawn into a food production factory!
If you’re stuck in your gardening and need an easy gardening method that produces a backyard food supply for your family, this video is for you.
Learn how to plant a Grocery Row Garden with David The Good and you’ll always have an emergency food supply and a fantastic ongoing yield of organic produce, right in your own yard.
Get rid of grass and start planting fruit trees and vegetables today!
6-8 fresh peeled, sliced apples or 2 quarts canned apples (juice drained)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons sugar
Melt butter in alarge oven safe skillet over medium heat. Add apples, sugar, and cinnamon. Cook, stirring constantly over medium heat until apples are cooked and mixture becomes caramelized. Turn off heat. Preheat oven to 375°F.
Next, in blender combine:
2 cups flour
2 cups milk
12 eggs
2 teaspoons salt
Blend flour, milk, eggs, and salt until smooth. Pour over cooked apple mixture in skillet. Place the oven safe skillet in preheated 375°F oven. Cook for 30-40 minutes. Pancake should be golden and puffy. Check middle for doneness (should be solid, not runny). Top with your choice of powdered sugar, syrup, and whipped cream.
I love fruit trees, but some years I stand underneath my apples full of codling moth larvae or my peaches that never fruited because a late frost killed all the buds, and I fantasize about mowing them down with a chainsaw.
Not plums, though. They’re my reliable, easygoing, happy-go-lucky companions.
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Plum trees come in teeny-tiny dwarf sizes and towering, 40-foot-tall options. Some grow sugary sweet, juicy fruits and others have petite, tangy ones.
In other words, if you want options, you’ve got options.
The showy spring display of pink, white, or purple blossoms is just a bonus. But for ornamental plums, it’s the main focus. That should tell you how pretty the blossoms can be on the fruiting types.
To help you grow bushels and bushels of flavorful fruits, here’s what this guide will cover:
Plums are broadly categorized as either Asian (P. salicina), European (P. domestica and P. cerasifera), or hybrid.
Some people add North American indigenous types, like P. americana, P. nigra,P.angustifolia, and P. maritima, to the mix.
The pruning requirements differ slightly depending on which type you’ve got, but growing each of these is otherwise similar.
Most plums aren’t self-fruitful, and this is where the species is important. A European plum can’t pollinate an Asian one, so if you want fruits, you usually need to grow two cultivars of the same type. Don’t worry, we’ll explain all that in a minute.
The exceptions are the few cultivars like ‘A. U. Amber’ and ‘Methley,’ which are self-fruitful – so don’t give up your plum dreams if you only have room for one tree.
Cultivation and History
P. domestica originated near the Caucasus Mountains and has likely been in cultivation for nearly 2,000 years. Ancient Romans cultivated the trees in their gardens.
Plums were gradually brought by settlers from western Asia to Europe and eventually North America.
Our earliest record of prunes in the region comes from Prince Nursery, which was established in Flushing, New York, in 1737. In their 1771 catalog, they advertised 33 different plums for sale.
Asian or Japanese plums, which originated in China along the Yangtze River Basin, were introduced into Japan and later South Africa, the Philippines, the West Indies, and Australia. They reached North America in the 1800s.
These days, the vast majority of plums grown commercially in the US are found in California, but they can grow in pretty much every state, in USDA Zones 4 through 9.
There are also ornamental plum species that are grown for their extravagant spring display. They will produce small fruits, which are technically edible, but they have large pits and only a little bit of flesh.
We’re going to focus on the edible ones in this guide.
Propagation
You need to plan ahead when planting plums. The soil pH should be around 6.0 to 6.5, and if it isn’t, you’ll want to start adjusting the pH the year before you plant.
It’s entirely possible to grow a plum tree from the seed that you’ll find inside the center of the pit. However, this works best with native species rather than European or Japanese types.
That’s because European and Japanese types are less likely to produce fruit, or to produce fruit that is similar to the fruit that you got the pit from.
Most of the fruits you get from the grocery store weren’t grown from seed, they were grown on plants that were grafted. That means there’s a lot of unique DNA in there, and who knows what will pop out on your new specimen.
Planting seed is a fun activity for the family, but it’s not the way to go if you are serious about propagating a productive tree.
From Cuttings
Rooting a cutting is a good way to reproduce a plant that you love. Whereas seed propagation is unpredictable, a cutting will give you an exact clone of the parent.
In the winter when the weather is dry and the tree is dormant, take a cutting from a young branch that’s about the diameter of a pencil. The cutting should be about six to 12 inches long.
Cut the base at a 45-degree angle. This helps to remind you which side is down, makes it easier to slide the cutting into the soil, and increases the surface area.
Dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone. You can skip this step, but it tends to improve rooting.
Rooting hormone powder is pretty cheap, and if you plan to take more cuttings in your gardening journey, it’s worth having around.
Pick up Bontone II Rooting Powder in a 1.25-ounce bottle at Arbico Organics.
Place the cutting in a six-inch pot filled with potting soil so about a third of it is below the soil line.
Water the soil well and place in an area with bright indirect light. Maintain soil moisture as needed.
Once the cutting starts to develop new growth, gradually move it to a sunny spot outdoors, assuming there’s no risk of frost.
Harden it off first over the course of a week, adding an hour of sun exposure each day.
When there are at least four new leaves, you can transplant your rooted cutting into the ground.
Transplanting Bare Roots
Plum trees are often sold as bare root specimens.
If you purchase a bare root specimen, when it arrives at your house, open the package and check to make sure the roots are still moist. If they aren’t, add water.
Keep your bare root in an area where it will stay cool, but not freezing and not hot, out of direct sunlight. Before planting, soak the roots in water for two to four hours.
When you’re ready to transplant, follow the directions for planting a potted tree as described below.
Transplanting Potted Nursery Plants
Place trees about 20 feet apart, depending on the type and its mature size. Prepare the soil by digging three times as wide and about as deep as the container.
Work lots of well-rotted compost into the excavated soil and remove the plant from its container. Gently tease apart and loosen up the roots in the rootball.
Lower the root ball into the hole and fill in around it with the mixed soil. Water well to settle any air pockets, and add more soil if necessary.
Bare roots can be spread over a mound of soil in the hole.
Most modern plums, if they’re not own-root, are grafted onto peach or myrobalan (P. cerasifera) rootstock. The graft should be sitting just above the soil line when you transplant.
Water in your transplants. While older specimens are able to withstand some drought, younger trees can’t. They need regular and consistent water.
How to Grow
Location is extremely important when siting plums.
For instance, if you live in Zone 7 or below, avoid placing your trees against a south-facing concrete or brick wall.
The heat reflected off the wall can encourage the trees to flower early, which leaves them exposed to blossom-killing frosts.
Ideally, you’d plant on the upper area of a gentle slope, but not all of us have such perfect conditions. You should avoid low-lying areas, which tend to be colder and wetter than higher areas.
Most plums do best in full sun, but some can fruit even in partial sun. Plant your trees where they’ll receive at least six hours of sunlight per day.
Young specimens should be kept moist, and the soil shouldn’t be allowed to dry out at all. Older trees are more tolerant of dry conditions because they develop an extensive root system to access water in the ground.
Add water during an extended dry period or when the top three to four inches of soil are totally dry. Don’t wait for the foliage to start wilting before you think to add water.
By that point, the tree is already stressed, and this will make it more susceptible to pests and diseases.
Six months after planting, start your feeding routine. Give them a 10-10-10 NPK granular fertilizer spread evenly inside the dripline. Water the granules in after application.
The following year, feed in early spring and again in late summer. After the tree reaches maturity, you don’t need to fertilize unless you test the soil and find it’s extremely deficient.
However, heaping well-rotted compost around the tree but not touching the trunk is always welcome.
When growing in alkaline soil, Prunus species are prone to chlorosis, making water and regular fertilization essential.
Keep weeds away from inside the drip line. These can harbor pests and disease pathogens and compete with the tree for nutrients, especially when it’s young.
In the event of a late blossom-killing frost, there generally isn’t much you can do to protect your trees.
However, if you have just one or two trees and you have some of the old incandescent Christmas lights, you can wrap them in these and turn them on during cold nights to protect the blossoms.
Fluorescent bulbs won’t work, however, since they don’t generate as much heat.
So long as the blossoms aren’t killed off by frost that year, you should start seeing fruit about three years after transplanting.
Speaking of fruiting, these trees are reliant on pollinators to produce fruit.
Because they bloom for such a short period in the spring, if you have an extremely wet or windy period while they’re in bloom, flying pollinators like bees might not be able to do their job.
If that happens, you might not get any fruit that year or the crop will be much smaller than normal.
As with all stone fruits, plums need a certain number of chill hours to produce a harvest. Chill hours are when the temperature is between 32 and 45°F during the dormant season.
Broadly speaking, European plums need about 400 chill hours while Japanese varieties need over 700.
North American native types usually need fewer chill hours, and some hardly need any at all. Chickasaw plums, for instance, only need about 200 chill hours.
Growing Tips
Protect trees from blossom-killing frosts by planting them on the upper part of a slope and away from heat-reflecting walls.
Keep young specimens watered well; older ones can tolerate some drought.
Feed young trees twice a year with a balanced fertilizer.
Pruning and Maintenance
Plums need special pruning to keep them productive and to avoid disease.
European plums should be pruned into a central leader shape and they don’t need aggressive pruning once they’re older.
Japanese varieties are pruned into a vase shape and require more pruning.
American types don’t need to be shaped, though you should remove about a fifth of the older branches each year to encourage young growth.
Whatever variety you’re growing, always remove any dead, diseased, or deformed branches when you see them.
European and Japanese types should be thinned just after the fruits form. You should leave one fruit spaced every four inches.
For tips on how to prune plums, check out our guide (coming soon!).
Another important and often forgotten part of plum maintenance is removing the fallen fruit. Not only does this fallen material have the potential to harbor pests and pathogens, but it can make a slimy mess that presents a slipping hazard.
Also, bear in mind that rats love fallen fruit. If you don’t clean it up in the fall, you are inviting rodents into your yard (and potentially your home).
Species and Cultivars to Select
European types tend to have a vase shape and produce sweeter fruits.
Almost any European type can be used to pollinate another European type, and these all bloom a week or two after Asian and American types.
Japanese types have a more round, open form, and they produce larger fruits. Pretty much any American or Japanese type can be used as a pollinator for a Japanese species.
American types tend to be more shrub-like and these are the hardiest of the three, able to withstand colder conditions. The fruits are also the smallest.
Most American types available for sale are hybridized with a Japanese tree, though you can find a few non-hybrid cultivars.
Not sure what type to plant? Take a look at these recommended varieties:
American
While they can vary in size, most American plums grow to about 20 feet tall and produce heaps of small, one-inch fruits.
These fruits aren’t as sweet or juicy as those of other species, but they’re delightful nonetheless. If you like making fruit leather or jams, they’re a fantastic option.
Many people simply grow them for their ornamental value. They produce masses of showy blossoms that blanket the tree in the early spring and they smell heavenly.
The reddish-purple fruits are a colorful addition to the yard even if you don’t eat them. And don’t worry – quail, turkeys, and lots of other wildlife will snack on the fruits for you.
These trees will send out suckers and spread, which may be considered a good or a bad thing, depending on how you look at it. As a bonus, native plums are self-fruitful, so you only need one.
But why not plant several? You can find these available as multi-stem shrubs or single-stem trees, depending on your needs.
They make effective windbreaks, and can fill in challenging areas that other trees won’t thrive in.
Look for cultivars such as ‘Pipestone,’ ‘Toka,’ and ‘Underwood,’ which have larger fruits and a more impressive floral display than the species.
Or you can go for the old reliable species plant, which is beautiful, tough, hardy, drought tolerant, and will adapt to most soil conditions in Zones 3 through 9.
My grandparents’ home was surrounded by plums, and ‘Brooks’ was always my favorite.
The blue fruit of this Italian plum sport is sweet with a tart snap to the skin when it’s young, though left to mature, it becomes a sugary delight. And the yellow flesh is smooth and flavorful.
No shade on Italian plums, but ‘Brooks’ fruit matures a few weeks before that of the parent type, and it’s just a touch more flavorful.
This tree is hardy in Zones 5 through 9, and grows to a manageable 15 feet tall.
You have to give this one a try! If you agree, visit Nature Hills Nursery to purchase a live plant in a #3 container.
Burgundy
This Japanese cultivar grows bushels of nearly black-skinned plums encasing a juicy, blood-red interior.
The pit is particularly small, meaning there’s more of that sweet flesh for the taking. Plus, it’s pretty cold-hardy for an Asian type, able to grow in Zones 5 through 8.
P. cerasifera‘Hollywood’ is ready for its turn on the stage. Not only is it beautiful, with deep purple foliage, but the rich and sweet fruits are fantastic.
This dwarf type grows to about 15 feet tall and is as useful as an ornamental as it is a fruit tree. The masses of pink blossoms that appear in the spring are well worth having around.
Hardy in Zones 5 to 9, it’s available at Fast Growing Trees in three- to four-, four- to five-, and five- to six-foot heights.
Methley
Lots of people pick 25-foot-tall ‘Methley’ because it’s self-fruitful, so you don’t need to have more than one plum tree to produce a harvest.
But it’s actually one of the most productive plum cultivars out there. And you can pair it with a friend for even more fruit!
This Japanese cultivar is disease-resistant, can tolerate drought, and will fruit even in partial sun. The branches are extremely strong and are able to support heavy fruit production.
These trees need extra spacing because they tend to spread. Don’t worry, they’ll pay you back tenfold with plenty of fruit in exchange for their greedy nature.
Snag a four- to five-foot live specimen in a paper pot at Nature Hills Nursery for growing in Zones 4 through 9.
Managing Pests and Disease
It seems like all stone fruits have a reputation for suffering from a lot of common pests and diseases.
While plums are no exception, they may be a little sturdier than their apple and peach friends. Still, there are many issues to watch out for. These are the most common:
Herbivores
Rabbits, mice, and deer will all eat the bark of these trees.
It’s not usually a problem on older specimens which can withstand a little damage, but with younger trees, a deer could devour an entire plant in a night or two.
Fencing is your best option to protect young trees, whether you place small fences around the individual itself or fence off the entire orchard. You can also set traps to capture mice, though they cause far less damage than larger critters.
When fruit is present, birds, squirrels, and other herbivores won’t hesitate to feed on your fruit buffet.
They won’t typically eat enough to make much of a difference, but it’s something worth being aware of. If you really want to protect your fruits, use netting.
Insects
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that North American native types of plums don’t attract most of these pests as readily as non-native species.
No matter which species of plum you grow, it’s always a good idea to place traps around your orchard or individual fruit trees in order to identify pests before they become a serious problem.
Pheromone traps, sticky traps, and simple observation can all help you to figure out if pests are eyeballing your trees.
Aphids and scale insects will attack plums, but they rarely cause serious problems and can usually just be ignored.
Cultivating a healthy garden environment filled with lots of beneficial insects is the best way to tackle these types of pests.
Avoid using pesticides when the flowers are present unless they’re targeted, because you run the risk of killing pollinators like bees. You should also avoid spraying in the few weeks leading up to harvest.
The following are the most common pests that you may come across when growing plums:
Apple Maggots
Depending on where you live, apple maggots (Rhagoletis pomonella) are mostly a problem on late-ripening types like ‘President’ or ‘Valor.’
Plums that ripen during the summer won’t be infested by apple maggots because the timing of the life cycle of the pest and the fruit ripening don’t coincide.
But when the timing is right, apple maggots can be the most damaging pest you’ll come across.
Closely related to cherry fruit flies, apple maggots look like tiny house flies with white banding. It’s not the adults that you have to worry about, though – it’s the larvae, which emerge after the adult flies lay eggs under the skin of the fruit.
When the maggots emerge they begin eating their way through the fruit, leaving telltale tunnels behind. These tunnels start to rot, and over time, the entire fruit rots and falls from the tree.
I don’t know why, but the name plum curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar) sounds like some cute little critter to me.
Maybe it’s because, living west of the Rockies, I’ve never had to deal with this problem in the past. But I will tell you there’s actually nothing cute about plum curculios.
These snout-nosed beetles are absolutely devastating for apples and peaches, and while they’re less of a problem in plums, an infestation is still no walk in the park. The quarter-inch-long beetles are dark brown with mottled gray and white patches.
The adult females lay eggs in the skin of the fruit where the larvae hatch and begin devouring the flesh inside.
The fruit falls to the ground, the maggots dig into the soil to pupate, and the life cycle continues.
Start watching for these pests a few weeks after the blossoms fade on your trees. You can set out sticky traps to capture them.
Pyrethroids can be used to kill the adults and neonicotinoids may be applied to kill the larvae, but these sorts of broad spectrum pesticides can cause more harm than good.
They can kill beneficial insects and upset the harmony in your garden – no judgment though if you’ve gotta do what you gotta do.
Instead, I recommend that gardeners try a multipronged approach. Head out in the early morning and shake your plum trees.
I know it sounds weird, but if you place tarps underneath them, the beetles will drop and you can scoop them up and dispose of them in soapy water.
You should also always clean up any fallen fruit as well, because that’s where the larvae live.
Then, apply a product that contains the beneficial fungus Beauveria bassiana, like BotaniGard ES. It’s available at Arbico Organics in quart or gallon containers.
This product may be used to manage a range of soft-bodied insects. It won’t kill adults, but it will kill the larvae.
Follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully and expect to reapply it several times throughout the season.
Root-Knot Nematodes
There are several species of root-knot nematodes that attack plum trees, including Meloidogyne incognita and M. javanica.
Peach root-knot nematodes (M. floridensis), another species that may infest plums, were first identified in Florida, but they have since been found throughout the United States.
These microscopic worms can infect all members of the Prunus genus, and other hosts beyond that.
They cause bulbous knot-like growths called galls on the roots that reduce the amount of water and nutrients the tree can access, resulting in diminished and stunted growth.
While an older tree can usually survive an infestation, though it will suffer reduced vigor, younger ones are more susceptible and will more than likely die.
While there are things you can do to address the problem, I’m not going to lie, the outlook isn’t great. We have a guide to root-knot nematodes to walk you through what you need to know.
Wood Borers
Tree borers are moths that lay eggs in the bark of Prunus trees. There are three main species that attack plums: the peach tree borer (Synanthedon exitiosa), the lesser peach tree borer (S. pictipes), and the plum borer (Euzophera semifuneralis).
Both types of peach tree borers are busy laying eggs during the summer while the plum borer can lay eggs in the late spring and late summer.
The adult moths look for spots on the tree where the bark has been damaged, and when they find a spot they lay their eggs there.
As the larvae emerge they tunnel through the tree. This can cause girdling, and exposes the tree to other types of pests and diseases.
Peach tree borers look a little bit like wasps. They are black and red with clear wings, while the lesser peach tree borers are black and white with clear wings. Plum borers look more like a traditional moth, with brown, gray, and cream coloring.
This is where using pheromone traps comes in handy. If you place traps near your trees, you can monitor populations and know when it’s time to get to work.
You can also be fairly confident that the pests are present if you see sap oozing out of the bark, and frass, which looks like sawdust.
Denying the moths a place to lay their eggs is the first step in preventing an infestation. You want to do everything you can to avoid damaging your trees, so prune carefully.
Don’t ever nail anything into a tree, and use caution when trimming near the base. You should also try to keep herbivores away from your trees.
Disease
It’s not unheard of for plum trees to be infected with Armillaria or crown rot, but these diseases are not nearly as common as the following:
Black Knot
Black knot is a springtime disease caused by the fungus Dibotyron morbosum (syn. Apiosporina morbosa).
It thrives in rainy, cool weather and it can be extremely problematic on plum trees. Japanese and American species are less susceptible than European varieties.
This disease only occurs when water is present and temperatures are between 55 and 75°F.
As the new shoots emerge in the spring, they’ll exhibit strange swollen areas that are pale green. After a year, these swollen areas will eventually turn into warty, elongated, black-knotted masses.
It’s not just ugly – the masses take over woody areas on the tree and reduce production and vigor.
If you’ve had black knot in your orchard recently, a product that contains chlorothalonil is highly effective at preventing disease spread when applied in the early spring.
It’s also good at controlling black knot, but no fungicide will eliminate the disease entirely.
Immediately pruning off any infected branches can also help to curb spread.
Or, just choose to plant ‘Obilinaja,’ ‘Early Italian Green,’ ‘Gage,’ ‘Fellenberg,’ or ‘President.’ They’re all so resistant to this fungus, they’re basically immune.
Brown Rot
Brown rot is a common foe for peach growers, but it can visit plums as well. It’s not as problematic in these plants, attacking less frequently and causing less damage.
European plums are more susceptible than other species, and trees growing in wet, warm areas are the most susceptible. When it’s present, the fungus will travel on wind and water.
This disease is caused by the fungus Monilia fruiticola and it just loves mummified fruit.
Don’t leave any rotten, dead fruit on your tree, and it will go a long way toward avoiding this issue. The fungus is also spread by pests, so avoiding infestation also helps.
If a tree is infected, the blossoms will turn brown and soggy, and the tips of the branches will die back. You’ll also see cankers on the tree.
When the fruit develops, it will have brown spotting and will rapidly rot. This can literally happen over the course of a day. The fruit might mummify and remain on the tree or fall to the ground.
The fungus that causes this disease overwinters on this mummified fruit, which is why it’s so important to clean it up in the winter.
Silver Leaf
Silver leaf is an incredibly common and contagious fungal disease caused by Chondrostereum purpureum, the spores of which travel and spread on water.
During rainy or humid periods, it can spread rapidly. As it spreads throughout the tree, it limits the plant’s ability to transport water and reduces vigor.
As the name implies, it causes the leaves of the tree to turn silver. It’s kind of pretty, and looks like someone took a can of spray paint to your trees.
You’ll also see a darkening of the branches from the fungal structures spreading there.
Before you start seeing silvering, the tips of young branches will start to die back, but people often miss or misdiagnose this symptom.
This silver isn’t actually shiny. The pathogen just changes the way that the leaves reflect light.
If only a few branches are infected, prune them off when the weather is dry. If the disease starts to impact more than half of the tree, you’ll need to remove and dispose of it.
Avoiding silver leaf takes some planning, but it can be done. The fungus needs to find a wound or opening to infect the plant.
If you take caution around your tree when you’re trimming weeds, do your best to prevent infestations by wood-eating insects, and never prune during wet weather, chances are good you can avoid it.
Harvesting
Fruits are mature sometime in the late summer or early fall. It all depends on what specific plum you’re growing and what USDA Hardiness Zone you’re in.
‘Early Golden’ might mature in early July if you’re in a mild climate, while ‘Valor’ won’t be ready until mid-October in areas with short growing seasons.
You’ll usually get around three bushels from American trees, and up to five from European and Japanese types.
In my family, harvesting takes place via child labor. My grandma paid my mom a penny a plum and my mom paid me and my siblings a nickel per fruit.
I don’t know what the going rate is today, but round up the kids and promise them plum kuchen (zwetschgenkuchen) in payment for their efforts. It’s better than cash.
The fruits should come away easily when they’re ready. The easiest way to tell if it’s time is to pick one and take a bite. Does it taste good? Harvest away!
Preserving
Plums won’t last long off the tree. To extend their shelf life, don’t wash them until you’re ready to eat them. Keep them in the refrigerator crisper drawer and they’ll last for up to a week.
To make them last longer, dry them in a dehydrator – hello, prunes! Or you can make fruit leather or jam, or can them in syrup.
You can also freeze plums by chopping them and then freezing the pieces on a baking sheet so they don’t stick together.
Once they’re frozen, you can toss them in a big bag and seal them up. They will stay fresh for about six months.
Recipes and Cooking Ideas
Plums are my absolute favorite fruit for making desserts. They have just enough acidic zing to add a tangy note to contrast with all that sugar.
You absolutely can’t go wrong with a galette. If you don’t already have a favorite recipe, our sister site Foodal has you covered.
If you’re planning to go on a hike with the fam, bring plum hand pies along as a treat. Start with Foodal’s recipe and use your homegrown plums.
Or turn them into a festive cocktail with Foodal’s sugar plum recipe.
If you lack a sweet tooth like I do, plums are also excellent as a topping for chicken or pork.
My favorite way to use them is to chop them up with tomatoes, cilantro, onions, a squeeze of lime, and chilis to make a fruit salsa.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Deciduous fruit tree
Flower/Foliage Color:
Pink, white/green
Native to:
China, Caucasus region, North America
Water Needs:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
4-9
Maintenance:
Moderate
Bloom Time/Season:
Spring blossoms, summer/fall fruit
Tolerance:
Some drought
Exposure:
Full sun
Soil Type:
Loamy
Time to Maturity:
8 years
Soil pH:
6.0-6.8
Spacing:
20 feet, depending on type
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Same as growing container (transplants), graft point just above the soil, top of the highest roots just below the soil (bare root)
Attracts:
Pollinators
Height:
Up to 40 feet
Order:
Rosales
Spread:
Up to 40 feet
Family:
Rosaceae
Growth Rate:
Moderate
Genus:
Prunus
Common Pests and Diseases:
Apple maggot, root knot nematode, plum curculio, wood borer; brown rot, black knot, silver leaf
The tools and equipment you use for gardening determine how well your tasks go. If your hedge trimmers are not sharp enough, then it could take twice, as usual, to get those hedges in perfect shape. So, always go for the best quality when buying gardening tools. Even if your budget can only afford second-hand tools, ensure they are in good condition. Picking the best equipment is only part of the job. You must also know how to take care of them.
Not many people, especially novice gardeners, take tool maintenance seriously. The problem with leaving your gardening equipment dirty and uncared for is that they tend to wear out faster than usual. Tools that could last more than a decade are only good for a few years due to a lack of maintenance. Additionally, uncleaned equipment can affect the health of your plants. Failing to clean hoes, for example, could lead to the transfer of weed seeds and soil, bacteria, and fungi. Therefore, take the time to maintain your tools and prevent such problems. This simple guide gives you a few ideas.
Short-Term Care
As tedious as it seems, you should maintain your gardening equipment regularly. If you use them daily, then the tools need a degree of care every time you finish.
Cleaning is the most important part of gardening tool care. Working in the soil means your tools come into contact with a lot of contaminants, some of which can be harmful to plants. Even if you don’t apply pesticides, you still have to worry about weeds, pathogens, and pests. If you don’t clean equipment after use, these contaminants could end up in healthy plants. For digging tools, remove the dirt or mud first before cleaning. Use soapy water to wash gardening equipment to remove all dirt.
Bleach diluted in water works wonders for tools used in pest-infested areas. Some equipment might require a scrub to get clean. Steel wool scrubs most tools without damaging them. Be particularly careful with the ones used for chemical applications because any remnants could corrode the metal. If you don’t have the time to wash your tools, then brush them. Alternatively, you can use a cotton pad dipped in alcohol to wipe small cutting tools, such as shears, hedge trimmers, and pruners.
Never store gardening equipment while wet. After cleaning, leave them out to dry or wipe them with a rag if you want to put them away immediately. Drying tools prevents rusting and rotting on wooden handles. The storage area should also be dry to avoid moisture collecting on surfaces. It’s why you should have a shed for your tools if you live in a wet environment. Ensure that the storage space has proper ventilation.
The way you store gardening tools after use matters as well. Keep hand tools in a bucket filled with oily sand or pebbles to avoid rust. Hung large tools upside down to prevent dulling of the blades. If you have sufficient space, then each tool should get its place. Remember to store equipment safely, particularly if other people use the storage area.
If you saw, prune or mow often, then the edges will eventually dull, making your tasks difficult. Dull edges also cause plant injury, which is detrimental to growth. So, make a habit of sharpening edges regularly for saws, loppers, hoes and other cutting tools. Use a file or whetstone for sharpening and then oil the equipment.
Seasonal Maintenance
Not all tools are in use throughout the year. Some come out in summer and fall and then rest in winter, while others operate during the cold weather. You should know how to prepare tools according to the season. If you have small hand tools that you won’t use for a long time, such as pruners in winter, take them apart and clean them. Deep clean your equipment at least once every season before putting them away. Soaking the parts in vinegar mixed with water and scrubbing gently removes rust. If you have been using chemicals, disinfect the equipment with bleach.
Check tools with wooden handles for damage before storing them. If you see cracked handles, cover them with heavy-duty tape. Replace handles that are too damaged to repair. Always wipe down wooden handles before storage. Sanding wooden surfaces seasonally smoothens and conditions the handles.
When evaluating tools before putting them away for the season, tighten any loose nuts, bolts and screws. Check equipment for missing components and replace them. If some tools require repair, don’t wait until the next time they are in use.
Even with the best care, gardening tools can still rust. Steel rolls are susceptible to oxidation, especially when you don’t use them for a long while. You can include rust removal as part of seasonal maintenance and prevent too much buildup. Make a mixture of one part water and one part vinegar, and soak rusted tools in it overnight. Scrub with steel wool to get rid of the oxidation. Rinse surfaces with soapy water and then plain water. Before storing the equipment, apply boiled linseed oil to create a barrier between the steel and air.
General Maintenance Tips for Garden Tools
Now that you know the primary methods to care for gardening equipment, here are some useful tips:
When sharpening cutting surfaces, lubricate them first.
Sharpen edges by filing in one direction, not back and forth.
Use a grinder to sharpen heavily used equipment like lawn mower blades, axes and machetes. An electric sharpening tool is also suitable, big be careful not to damage the edges.
Keep disinfectant wipes handy if you garden a lot. You can use them to wipe equipment instead of washing them daily.
If you are using oil and sand to store tools, ensure that the mixture is only slightly damp, not oily. This storage option is suitable for winter when equipment won’t be in use for some time. While the oil prevents rusting, the sand grains keep the cutting edges sharp and ready to use when necessary.
Remove sap from pruners using turpentine or mineral spirits. After wiping the blades with a solvent, apply linseed oil before storage.
A quick hose down of your tools gets rid of stubborn mud, dirt and debris if you don’t have time for a proper wash. Don’t forget to check the joints when cleaning and disinfecting your gardening tools.
Poor care of gardening equipment will cost you dearly because you will need to replace damaged tools earlier than expected. Adequate maintenance extends the life of gardening equipment. So, you save money and do your jobs right. Simple habits like wiping down a hoe after digging to dipping shears in oil builder’s sand make a lot of difference in the life of your gardening tools. Therefore, learn how to care for different types of gardening equipment for lasting service.
The second summer rolls around, I can’t get enough of lavender. This gorgeous ornamental is a garden staple, filling the air with a sweet fragrance and attracting your favourite pollinators. Get more of this purple perennial and learn how to propagate lavender cuttings from your garden today.
Why would you want more lavender? Well, why wouldn’t you! It has the most delightful scent that is beloved in aromatherapy. It is known for its relaxing and calming properties, helping to ease stress and insomnia.
Beyond aromatherapy, it also has a delicate floral taste that I adore in cooking. Believe it or not, some people propagate lavender just for culinary purposes.
The plant itself is also a garden relish. It is extremely hardy and drought-resistant, making it a dreamy, low-maintenance plant. The bees adore lavender and I am always happy to invite more of them into my garden. And to top it off, they are deer AND rabbit resistant. Booya!
If you’re here already, I’m sure I don’t have to convince you how awesome lavender is. But I will never miss out on an opportunity to gush about one of my favourite plants. So without further ado, here is everything you need to know about how to propagate lavender.
This post will cover…
Expert Tips for Propagating Lavender
Only take cuttings from healthy softwood stems. Softwood stems are new growth that is lighter in colour and more flexible than older hardwood stems.
Take cuttings with no flowers or buds on them, typically during mid-summer when the plant is actively growing.
Immediately place the cutting in a moist paper towel or water until you can plant it.
Remove the bottom two inches of leaves, then place either in soil 2 inches deep or in water. Lavender will grow easily in water, but the transplant rate is lower than those grown in soil.
Keep the cutting moist and place it somewhere warm and out of direct sunlight.
Cuttings are the best way to produce new lavender plants, rather than starting them from seed.
How to Propagate Lavender from Cuttings
If you want lavender, you can easily get a whole garden full of the herb from a single plant. The best way to propagate lavender is by taking stem cuttings. The first step to getting a successful lavender cutting is by making the right selection.
To get the best yield possible, you want only to select cuttings from a healthy part of the plant, free of pests and diseases. I like to choose side shoots from areas with lots of foliage so they won’t be missed.
On the lavender plant, you will see softwood and hardwood. You want to trim softwood only. It is lighter in colour and more flexible than hardwood. This is the newer growth, and it will root easier.
All of this new growth is softwood. It has a light, sage green colour.
Take Your Cutting
Grab a sharp knife, disinfect it with soapy water, and then with rubbing alcohol. Cut a softwood stem with no flowers or buds on it. The cutting should be 3-4 inches long.
Once you have your cutting, immediately wrap it in a moist paper towel or place it in a bucket or cup of water. Keep your lavender cutting cool until you are ready to plant it. Ideally, you should plant this cutting within 24 hours after taking it.
Plant Your Lavender Cutting
When you’re ready to plant your cutting in soil, remove all the leaves from the bottom two inches of the stem. You will also want to scrape the skin off the stem on one side of the bottom two inches.
You can place your cutting directly in the soil or dip it in a rooting hormone like willow water first. However, lavender does root quite easily, so don’t worry if you don’t have any rooting hormone on hand.
Poke your finger, a chopstick, or a pencil in the soil two inches deep. Place your stem in and pack the surrounding soil so the plant is standing straight up.
Take your lavender cuttings ideally after the plant has finished flowering.
Lavender Cutting Care
To make a mini-greenhouse for your lavender cutting, carefully place a zip-top bag over the cutting. Place your cutting in a warm area that is out of direct sunlight. Keep the cutting moist, but release condensation from the bag every few days so the leaves don’t get soggy.
Once there is new growth, remove the bag and reduce humidity. Let the soil dry completely between watering. You can also begin to fertilize the cutting at this stage to encourage quicker growth.
Once there are full, new leaves, your lavender is ready for transplant. Take it to its new permanent home!
Dried lavender has many uses, from its therapeutic scent to its floral taste.
Frequently Asked Questions About Propagating Lavender
Can you root lavender cuttings in water?
In my lavender propagation instructions, you probably noticed I mentioned placing the cutting directly in the soil. However, this is not the only way to root a lavender cutting.
Lavender will actually take easier to water propagation. BUT, the success rate for transplanting the cutting will be much lower. So, if you want to try propagating lavender with water, keep this in mind!
Once your lavender cutting has significant roots, about an inch long, you can put your cuttings in soil.
When should I take lavender cuttings?
The best time of year to propagate lavender is during its active growth season and when the plant is not currently flowering. If you take your cutting too late in the summer or fall, it may not root as the plant could be dormant.
Snip your cuttings in the morning when the air is nice and cool. This way, your lavender plants aren’t under any further stress from heat.
What month do you take lavender cuttings?
Lavender cuttings should be taken during the active growth season between flowerings. This typically falls between July and August.
How Long Do Lavender Cuttings Take to Root?
Patience is hard when it comes to propagating lavender! Luckily, lavender roots quite easily. You can expect to wait two to four weeks for softwood cuttings to take root.
Older hardwood cuttings will take much longer. I usually avoid snipping or pruning hardwood on a lavender plant unless it gets very unruly.
Should lavender cuttings be in sun or shade?
Place your lavender cutting outside of direct sunlight, as the cuttings are delicate and could burn with too much sun. Absolutely ensure it’s protected from the afternoon sun. However, you want it to stay warm, so south-facing windows are great options.
It isn’t just bees who love lavender. Butterflies also enjoy lavender, making it a great addition to butterfly pathway gardens.
That’s everything you need to know on how to propagate lavender! Let me know in the comments below where you plan to grow your new lavender babies.
What to Do with Lavender
Now that you have plenty of new plant babies, you may be wondering what to do with it all. First, make sure you harvest lavender properly. Then, the sky’s the limit! Here are a few suggestions:
I’ve always loved roses—especially those blowsy, old varieties. They’re lush, fragrant, and endlessly romantic. But growing them can be a challenge. As I look to grow more natives in my garden, I wanted to learn more about roses endemic to the U.S.
With about 20 species of rose native to the U.S., these perennial bloomers can be found growing in meadows and prairies, deserts, woodlands, even on the sides of roadways across the country. But don’t confuse them with invasive varieties, like multiflora rose, a perennial shrub native to Asia that is encroaching on meadows and woodsy areas throughout the Northeast, or rugosa rose, which is spreading in coastal areas due to in part to its salt tolerance. These invasives harm the eco-system by displacing native plants, which are critical food sources for wildlife.
Most native roses are single-petaled, pretty in pink, and only flower once. While they might be more subtle than many modern hybrids, they are brimming with pollen and nectar, which is invaluable to pollinators. “Many modern roses are sterile,” says Julie Marcus, senior horticulturalist at the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center in Austin, Texas. “But native roses attract bees and butterflies and their hips lure birds.” Many also provide nesting sites and material for bees, as well as hosting larvae for butterflies and moths. The rosehips, which range from the size of a pea to that of a marble, add color to the winter landscape, hanging on long after the foliage drops, that is, “if the birds don’t get them all first,” says Marcus with a laugh.
To grow native roses at home, Marcus recommends you “evaluate your space first.” Look at how much room you have, your light, and soil conditions. “Then think about where these roses are found in the wild to see what you can grow,” she says. (Search for species on the wildflower.org plant database to see what’s native to your area and what growing requirements the rose needs.) When selected properly, native roses are hardy, adapted to your region, and will flourish with minimal work from you. Here are some standouts found throughout the country.
Climbing Prairie Rose
Above: Photograph courtesy of Andy and Sally Wasowski, Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center.
Sporting pretty, pink flowers about two inches in diameter with a subtle fragrance, climbing prairie rose (R. setigera) is a climber that will tolerate some light shade. It’s found naturally on the edges of woodlands and prairies thickets. Plant in well-drained soil and give it lots of room to grow. “Its branches can reach 15 feet, says Marcus. “In the wild they tangle over themselves, which provides structure and nesting material for bees.”
May has ended, and hot, dry weather has arrived; it officially feels like summer in the garden. But the last few bits of spring have been beautiful. Here are some of my favorites from the last weeks of May.
I planted a LOT of these white Iceland poppies (Papaverhybrid, Zones 3–8) last year, but rabbits ate all but this one (sigh). At least this one is beautiful, and I think a fox or something has moved into the neighborhood because I’ve seen far fewer rabbits this year.
I inherited this peony when I bought my house. It was buried under weeds and not thriving, but I cleared the area and moved it to a sunnier spot, and it is now flowering! I think it is the old heirloom varietyPaeonia‘Alba Plena’ (Zones 3–8).
This isn’t my garden, but one I walked past with my dog the other day. Wow—just an incredible planting of bearded irises (Irishybrids, Zones 3–8).
Here’s another shot from a walk around my neighborhood, this one of a beautybush (Kolkwitzia amabilis, Zones 4–8). It is an old-fashioned shrub I never see for sale any more, but the older neighborhoods in town have a lot of them. It looks so incredible in bloom, but isn’t much to look at the rest of the year.
The roses are just getting started. I don’t have a name for this little one, but I really like it.
I have sandy soil, so lots of penstemons are happy here, including this Penstemonheterophyllus ‘Electric Blue’ (Zones 5–9). I adore the color of this one.
As usual, the annual poppies (Papaver hybridum) I carefully grew from seed are still small, but this one, which self-sowed from last year, is huge and loaded with brilliant orange flowers. It seeded itself right in the front of the bed, blocking everything behind it, but it is so pretty I don’t have the heart to pull it out.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
If you’re anything like me, you’ve been harvesting an abundance of okra from your garden this season and are now on the hunt for mouth-watering recipes to make the most of this versatile veggie. Fear not; I’ve got you covered with a scrumptious round-up of my favorite okra recipes.
From classic Southern dishes to innovative international twists, these recipes will have you falling in love with okra all over again. So, let’s dive right into this flavorful journey and explore some of the best ways to enjoy this garden-fresh gem. Grab your apron and get ready to be inspired!
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
You’ve grown it…now what to do with it? Here are 7 of my favorite recipes for okra.
Okra is a fantastic and versatile veggie, but sometimes we need a little inspiration to make the most of this abundant harvest. That’s why I’ve put together a list of my favorite okra recipes that are sure to tantalize your taste buds. So, without further ado, let’s dive into this delicious collection and discover new ways to enjoy your garden-fresh okra!
Grilled Okra – Super simple to throw a few on the grill when you are cooking other things.
Okra with Tomatoes – This recipe is the best if you have garden-fresh onions, garlic, and tomatoes. Summer on a plate.
Okra Water – Health benefits and easy preparation. If you don’t cut up the okra, it has a more mild flavor.
More ideas for using okra: Use okra in your favorite recipes.
Adding okra to your favorite recipes that don’t specifically call for it can be a fun and creative way to enjoy this versatile vegetable. Here are some ideas to help you incorporate okra into various dishes:
Stir-fry: Add sliced okra to your favorite stir-fry mix for an extra crunch and boost of nutrients. It pairs well with bell peppers, onions, and other veggies.
Pasta dishes: Chop the okra into bite-sized pieces and add it to pasta sauces or toss it with cooked pasta, olive oil, garlic, and your choice of seasonings for a unique twist on your favorite pasta dish.
Grain bowls: Cooked okra can be a great addition to grain bowls featuring quinoa, rice, or couscous. Combine roasted vegetables, beans, and your preferred dressing for a tasty and nutritious meal.
Soups and stews: Okra is a natural thickener, making it perfect for soups and stews. Add sliced okra to gumbo, vegetable soup, or chili for added texture and flavor.
Salads: Fresh, thinly-sliced okra can be mixed into green salads for a crunchy and unique twist. Alternatively, you can lightly sauté the okra and let it cool before adding to the salad.
More ways to use okra into your favorite recipes:
Omeletsand frittatas: Sauté diced okra with onions, bell peppers, and other veggies before adding them to your omelet or frittata mixture for a delicious and healthy breakfast.
Tacos and burritos: Spice up your taco or burrito game by adding sautéed or grilled okra as a filling, along with your choice of protein and other toppings.
Pizza: Top your homemade pizza with sautéed or roasted okra slices for a fun and unexpected addition to your favorite pizza recipe.
Sandwiches and wraps: Add some crunch to your sandwiches and wraps by including fresh or lightly sautéed okra slices along with your choice of protein and other veggies.
Curries: Okra pairs well with the rich flavors of curries. Simply add it to your favorite curry dishes, such as tomato-based or coconut milk-based curry, for a delightful surprise.
Remember, when adding okra to recipes that don’t call for it, be mindful of its cooking time and adjust accordingly to avoid overcooking. Experiment with these ideas and have fun discovering new ways to enjoy this versatile vegetable in your favorite dishes!
Would you like to learn more about growing okra? This article is a good place to begin.
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A restful night’s sleep is crucial to our general well-being, and a comfortable mattress is vital to achieving that. However, many people overlook the importance of mattress maintenance, which can significantly impact its lifespan and performance. When exploring options for high-quality bedding, it’s worth considering Essentia latex mattresses, known for their sustainable design and commitment to providing an environmentally-friendly sleep experience.
This piece will cover methods to make your bed last longer and ensure a hygienic sleeping environment.
Importance of mattress maintenance
Maintaining your mattress is crucial for several reasons. Firstly, regular maintenance helps preserve the mattress’s structural integrity, preventing premature sagging and wear. Secondly, a clean and well-maintained mattress promotes better hygiene and reduces the risk of allergens, dust mites, and bed bugs. Lastly, by taking care of your mattress, you’ll be able to reduce expenses in the long run by avoiding the need for frequent replacements.
When to consider replacing your mattress
Before diving into maintenance tips, it’s important to know when to consider replacing your mattress.
Signs of wear and discomfort
Despite proper maintenance, mattresses have a limited lifespan. Over time, they can lose their support and comfort, leading to poor sleep quality. If you notice significant sagging, lumps, or coils poking through, it may be time to consider replacing your mattress. Waking up with stiffness or experiencing restless sleep are signs that your mattress no longer provides adequate support.
The average lifespan of different mattress types
Depending on the type, a mattress may have a different lifespan. Innerspring mattresses typically last around 7-10 years, while memory foam and latex mattresses have a longer lifespan of 10-15 years. Hybrid mattresses, which combine different materials, usually fall somewhere in between. However, these numbers are averages, and individual factors such as usage, weight, and care can influence the lifespan.
Tips for extending the lifespan of your bed
Regular cleaning and dusting
Regular cleaning and dusting are fundamental to maintaining a clean and healthy mattress. Start by removing all bedding and vacuuming the mattress surface to eliminate dust, dead skin cells, and debris. Use a brush attachment to reach corners and crevices.
Using mattress protectors
Invest in a high-quality mattress protector to safeguard your mattress from spills, stains, and dust mites. A mattress protector acts as a barrier, preventing liquids from seeping into the mattress and protecting against allergens and bed bugs. Choosing a waterproof and breathable protector that fits securely on your mattress and is easy to remove for washing is essential.
Rotating and flipping the mattress
Rotating your mattress is recommended to ensure even wear and maintain mattress support. Rotate it 180 degrees every three to six months, depending on the mattress type. Some mattresses are designed to be one-sided and don’t require flipping, but flip them over every six months if yours allows it. It helps distribute body weight more evenly and reduces the risk of sagging.
Avoiding food and drink on the bed
Drinking and eating in bed may result in unintentional spills and stains, which are unsightly, attract insects, and cause unpleasant odors. Avoid consuming food or beverages on your mattress to minimize the risk of accidents. If you enjoy snacking or drinking before bedtime, consume them in a designated area away from your bed.
Handling stains and spills
Despite precautions, spills and stains can still occur. To tackle them effectively, act promptly. Use a dry paper towel or clean cloth to blot the spill to remove any extra liquid. Avoid rubbing the stain, as it can push it deeper into the fabric. Apply water and mild detergent to gently clean the stained area, and then blot it again with a dry cloth. Before replacing the bedding, give the mattress ample time to air dry completely.
Vacuuming and deodorizing
Regular vacuuming is crucial to removing dust, dirt, and allergens that accumulate on the mattress surface over time. Utilize a vacuum with a HEPA filter for superior dust and allergen removal. Additionally, to keep your mattress smelling fresh, use a small amount of baking soda and allow it to sit for a few hours. Vacuum the baking soda thoroughly to eliminate odors.
Sunning the mattress
Natural sunlight has disinfectant properties and helps eliminate moisture, mold, and mildew from your mattress. On a sunny day, remove all bedding and allow your mattress to air out in a well-ventilated area. Ensure the mattress is placed in a spot where it receives direct sunlight for a few hours. However, be cautious not to expose the mattress to extreme heat or direct sunlight for prolonged periods, as it can cause damage.
Maintaining proper support
Proper mattress support is crucial for its longevity. Ensure your bed frame or foundation provides adequate support for your mattress type. A sagging or damaged bed frame can lead to premature wear and reduce the lifespan of your mattress. Regularly inspect the frame and tighten loose screws or bolts to maintain stability and support.
Avoiding jumping on the bed
Jumping or bouncing on the bed may be fun, especially for children, but it can harm the mattress. Excessive pressure and impact from jumping can damage the mattress springs and lead to sagging or even structural failure. Encourage everyone to refrain from jumping on the bed to preserve its lifespan.
Protecting from pets
If you allow pets on your bed, take extra precautions to protect your mattress. Pet hair, dander, and accidents can easily accumulate on the surface and seep into the mattress, causing odor and hygiene issues. Use a washable pet bed or a pet-friendly cover on your mattress to create a barrier and reduce the risk of stains and allergens.
Professional mattress cleaning
While regular cleaning and maintenance go a long way, scheduling a professional mattress cleaning every year or two is beneficial. Professional cleaners have the expertise and equipment to deep clean your mattress, remove stubborn stains, and effectively eliminate allergens. This thorough cleaning can rejuvenate your mattress and extend its lifespan.
Final thoughts
Taking care of your mattress through regular maintenance and cleaning is essential for extending its lifespan and ensuring a comfortable sleep environment. You can enjoy a hygienic and long-lasting bed by following the tips mentioned in this article. Remember, a well-maintained mattress promotes better sleep and contributes to your overall health and well-being.
Whether it’s the blooms of an evening primrose, a pizza delivery place with extended hours, or a 24/7 gas station during a well-hydrated road trip, anything that’s “open late” can be an absolute blessing.
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In the case of Oenothera, it definitely is. With stunning flowers that open up later in the day than most other blooms, evening primroses certainly live up to their name.
Add a variety of beautiful forms and a robust toughness to the mix, and Oenothera species absolutely warrant being added to your garden.
“But how do I propagate these plants?” “How should I care for them afterwards?” “And how do evening primroses fit into humanity’s body of knowledge on evolutionary biology?”
You’re probably brimming with questions, so we’ve whipped up a growing guide just for you. You’ll have your answers, dear reader… and more.
Let’s get it started. Here’s everything we’ll cover, up ahead:
What Are Evening Primroses?
Evening primroses are about 145 species of herbaceous flowers from the Oenothera genus, which belongs to the Onagraceae, or the evening primrose family.
Depending on the variety, evening primroses – also known as coffee plants, golden candlesticks, and a host of other nicknames, depending on the species – can be annuals, biennials, or perennials.
Suitable growing regions range across USDA Zones 3 to 11.
Oenothera species are native to North and South America, although they’ve naturalized in Europe and many other parts of the world.
With a wide range of habitats and climates that they call home, evening primroses are pretty tough flowers, with built-in durability against many environmental stressors that would make short work of weaker plants.
Oenothera plants display large, goblet-like flowers in white, yellow, red, pink, or purple hues, each with four petals.
Some species flaunt fragrant blooms, while others are pretty much scentless. Depending on the variety, they may bloom from spring to fall.
Evening primrose is so named for its habit of only showing its attractive blooms late in the day in a manner similar to four o’clock flowers, leaving them open until around mid-morning the following day, at which point the flowers expire.
But while each individual bloom doesn’t last for very long, new flowers will take the place of old ones throughout the blooming period.
Since the flowers are open during the later hours, they’re often visited by pollinators of the night, including various types of moths and vespertine bees.
After pollination, the blooms eventually give way to four-capsuled, seed-bearing fruits.
Some varieties have an upright growth habit, reaching a height of six feet with a spread of two feet, whereas others are used as ground cover or incontainer plantings, growing no higher than six inches.
Across the majority of the genus, the green leaves are elliptical to lance-shaped.
Certain varieties have the tendency to grow rather aggressively, and particular locales may list those types as invasive.
Always check your area’s rules and regulations prior to selecting a species or cultivar and planting location!
Cultivation and History
Evening primroses aren’t just pretty, they can also be useful.
Native Americans used the whole of O. biennis for food and treating bruises, and also used its roots specifically for treating hemorrhoids.
The leaves were traditionally used for tending to minor wounds, gastrointestinal issues, and sore throats.
In the 1600s, Oenothera plants were exported to Europe, where they have since naturalized.
There, O. biennis found many different medicinal applications, earning nicknames such as “king’s cure-all” and “fever-plant.”
Today, oil pressed from the seeds of O. biennis is marketed in capsule form to help a number of conditions including eczema, rheumatoid arthritis, premenstrual syndrome, and osteoporosis.
The gamma linolenic acid — aka GLA, a type of omega-6 fatty acid — contained within the oil is used by the body to regulate blood pressure and to keep the immune system functioning well.
The roots, which are said to have a light peppery taste similar to salsify, can be eaten raw or prepared as you would any root vegetable.
Birds, perhaps seeking a little omega-6 of their own, enjoy eating the plant’s seeds, as do some humans who use them as one might use poppy seeds.
Here’s a question for you, though: what do evening primrose flowers and the X-Men have in common?
Answer: an association with mutation.
Let’s back up a bit.
In the late 1800s, Dutch botanist and geneticist Hugo de Vries noticed significant differences between wild and cultivated varieties of O. lamarckiana.
At the time, he thought these differences were due to mutations that rapidly and observably changed traits between generations.
Nowadays, we know that Oenothera plants don’t always follow the typical rules of gene inheritance, and that they’re also easily prone to hybridization with other species.
Meaning, Oenothera offspring can look significantly different from their parents, and this has less to do with mutations and more to do with cross-breeding, and the unusual way that these plants can pass down genes.
But de Vries didn’t know what we now know about Oenothera genetics.
Observing spontaneous new forms and varieties while cultivating evening primroses, he used these flowers and his observations to form his mutation theory, which proposed that new species are rapidly formed from sudden and unexpected mutations.
This theory clashed with Darwinian ideas about evolution, which argued that a gradual process of natural selection is what drives evolution.
But de Vries’ efforts weren’t for nothing, far from it.
As the father of mutation theory, his work introduced the idea of mutations to evolutionary science, paving the way for future scientists to discover that mutations didn’t drive evolution, but rather, provided more genetic variation for the natural selection process to work with.
So, in a roundabout way, we partially owe our knowledge of mutations – and evolution as a whole – to the humble evening primrose. How cool is that?
Propagation
Want some Oenothera of your own? I thought you might.
Evening primroses are best propagated from seed, from divisions, or via transplanting.
From Seed
As you can imagine, sowing seeds requires seeds, which can be harvested, purchased, and/or acquired from a friend.
To harvest some seeds for sowing, you should remove the fruits once they develop a brown, papery look.
But make sure to pluck them before the fruit tips open, lest the seed spill on the ground.
The fruits will require frequent check-ups so you can pluck them at the right time. When it’s time, puncture the tip with a sharp and sterile blade, open up the fruit, and gently shake out the seeds.
As a workaround to regular monitoring, you could cover the fruits with gauzy organza bags, which will catch the seeds whenever they drop on their own.
The material is densely-meshed enough for catching seeds, yet open enough to allow for light exposure and airflow.
Have your seeds? You can either sow them outdoors in the fall, or cold-stratify them indoors before outdoor sowing the following spring.
For sowing seeds in autumn, do so just below the soil line in well-draining, moderately fertile garden soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. If you want to be on the safe side, sow the seeds in groups of four.
Space the groups of seeds as far apart as your chosen variety’s typical width. Keep the soil around the seeds moist until freezing temperatures set in. At this point, your work is done until after the final frost date in spring.
Before you sow seeds outdoors in spring, you’ll have to cold-stratify them.
Two months or so prior to the planned planting date in post-frost spring, put the seeds in a plastic bag of moist sand.
Keep the bag in the fridge for 60 days – making sure to keep the sand moist all the while, then sow them outdoors using the above planting protocol.
Alternatively, you can also sow seeds directly into outdoor containers rather than the ground.
If you go the container route, plant your four-seed groups into their own three- to four-inch containers, each filled with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite.
Care for them like you would in-ground seeds, and be sure to repot them as needed to keep the plants an inch or two away from the container’s sides.
Not every species is ideal for container growing, especially the ones with long taproots. For any species you consider, make sure you have an idea of what the mature root system will look like!
From Divisions
Not every Oenothera species likes being divided, O. macrocarpa being one of them.
But if your chosen perennial species can handle it, division is a quick and efficient way to acquire more evening primroses.
Timing this depends on when your chosen species blooms. Early bloomers should be divided promptly after they finish blooming, while later bloomers should be divided in early spring.
This ensures that a plant’s strength isn’t sapped right before it flowers.
Once it’s division time, dig a circle around and gently lift out your chosen specimen, making sure to handle the root system with tender, loving care.
Lay out the specimen over a tarp, and turn that TLC into tough love by slicing the plant apart into equally-sized sections with a sharp, sterile blade.
At this point, each division is ready for transplanting!
Via Transplanting
Prior to transplanting, prepare a planting site or adequately-sized and well-draining container for each transplant.
Dig holes deep enough for their root systems and wide enough to give yourself some elbow room in which to work and the roots to spread.
Then, carefully lower each transplant into its planting site.
If you want your transplants to start off with a bit of added fertility, feel free to mix some organic material in with the dug-out soil. Backfill the holes and water the transplants in.
The soil will need to be kept moist until the transplants establish themselves in a year or two. Moist, not saturated – you don’t want to have a case of root rot on your hands!
How to Grow
Obviously, these recommendations are intentionally kept general since we’re covering a whole genus of plants.
I’d definitely recommend double-checking the particular requirements of your chosen species!
Climate and Exposure Needs
The aforementioned hardiness within USDA Zones 3 to 11 spans the entire genus – for each of those zones, there’s at least one type of Oenothera that can work.
Evening primrose flowers will do well in full sun to partial shade, depending on the variety.
Soil and Water Needs
Oenothera plants prefer well-draining soils within a standard pH range of 6.0 to 7.0, but they’ll tolerate higher pH levels.
They do fairly well in poor soils, but they really thrive in soils that have been amended with some organic matter.
Keep fertility up by working an inch or two of organic matter into the root zone of your plantings each spring.
Most varieties of Oenothera are quite drought tolerant, requiring little supplemental watering. You could honestly let the rain do all the watering for you, and your evening primroses should do just fine.
But there’s a significant difference between “fine” and fine, if you catch my meaning… and optimal irrigation entails watering whenever the soil completely dries out.
Growing Tips
Provide full sun to partial shade, depending on the species.
Depending on the variety, a bit of mulch could be helpful for maintaining moisture and preventing weeds, adding to the aesthetics of your garden as well.
If your specimens are spreading and growing more aggressively than you’d like, feel free to pull any undesired ones that happen to pop up.
To reduce the plant’s growth rate and make things a bit easier for yourself, you can actually cut back on irrigation and let the rainfall do most, if not all, of the watering.
Containerized evening primroses should be repotted as needed to prevent root bindage – a pot that’s about two inches wider than the root system is the standard to shoot for.
Species to Select
There are many species of Oenothera out there… but which to choose? “Best” is subjective, of course, but I’m confident in recommending these bad boys:
Common
Common evening primrose, or O. biennis, can grow as tall as six feet with a spread of about two to three feet.
Hardy in USDA Zones 4 to 9, this biennial solely produces leafy stalks in the first year.
The second year’s stalks, though, are adorned by large, lemon-yellow flowers before giving way to fruit capsules.
Blooming from summer to fall, O. biennis is native throughout the United States and Canada, and is often found growing in prairies, thickets, and glades, and along roadsides.
And although it may be common, it’s certainly far from boring.
Mexican
O. berlandieri, or Mexican evening primrose, is a spreading perennial that only grows to a height of about 18 inches.
Photo via Alamy.
Native to Missouri, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, and Mexico, this plant will grow in full sun while tolerating infertile soils and minimal water, even more so than many other evening primroses.
Hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8 and with pink to white flowers that bloom throughout spring and summer, the Mexican evening primrose is among the toughest of the tough.
Missouri
As a native Missourian, I’m a bit biased towards this one.
A native of the southern and central United States and hardy within USDA Zones 3 to 7, O. macrocarpa is a sprawling perennial that reaches heights of nine to 12 inches and spreads 12 to 18 inches.
With beautiful yellow blooms that emerge in spring and summer, the Missouri evening primrose is low in profile, yet high in beauty.
Especially when you consider its fruits, which are especially large for an Oenothera and perfect for use in dried floral arrangements.
Native to Mexico and the southwestern United States, the showy evening primrose is truly a flashy beauty, with evolving color that simply can’t be ignored.
For the most part, evening primroses aren’t prone to many diseases or pests. But there are some potential problems that you should be aware of.
Insects
As insects move from plant to plant, they can vector a plethora of harmful diseases. So by managing pests, you’ll also be managing disease to a degree.
Leafhoppers
Leafhoppers are quarter-inch-long insects from the Cicadellidae family, and they usually congregate on stems and leaf undersides.
The most common symptom of their presence is leaf stippling, i.e. small, pale, and discolored feeding spots.
If severe, this feeding damage can cause leaves to turn yellow, brown, and die. Leafhoppers also excrete honeydew, which can attract ants and lead to black sooty mold formation.
Natural enemies such as assassin bugs, lacewings, and ladybugs can make short work of these pests, along with sprays of horticultural oil or insecticidal soaps during the growing season.
Find 32 ounces of ready-to-spray insecticidal soap from Bonide, now on Amazon.
Lygus Bugs
Adult Lygus species are about a quarter-inch in length, with oval-shaped bodies and a triangular lobe above the wings.
The nymphs are smaller, with a more rounded form and lighter-colored bodies. The colors vary between species, ranging from brown or black to yellow, red, or green.
After overwintering in plant debris, adults emerge in early spring to feed on buds and shoots, mate, and lay eggs in the tissues of host plants.
Come summer, nymphs hatch from the eggs, who feed from plants as they grow and mature.
In a growing season, two to four generations may be born, the last of which overwinter during the dormant season to start the cycle anew the following year.
With piercing-sucking mouthparts, lygus bugs extract vital fluids from plant cells.
This hinders seed set and plant maturation, along with causing bud drop or flower abortion, which can be a real problem for blooms as beautiful as an evening primrose’s.
Regularly sweep your plants for these pests and signs of their presence. Remove nearby weeds and plant detritus, and use insecticidal soap as needed to smother these pests.
Interestingly, some gardeners plant Oenothera as a trap plant to attract Japanese beetles away from other, “more desirable” plants such as roses.
But when beautiful evening primroses are the goal, the penchant of these pests can be quite annoying.
As an adult, Popillia japonica is about a third of an inch to a half-inch long, with bronze wing covers alongside a metallic green head and thorax.
The C-shaped grubs are cream-colored, with tan heads and easily visible legs.
These invasive pests overwinter as grubs in the soil prior to pupating into adults in spring.
Emerging from the ground fully grown in summer, Japanese beetles feed on plant foliage, flowers, and fruits, and they are capable of flying for miles to do so.
They also mate and lay eggs in the soil, which continues the life cycle.
As you can imagine, feeding holes left in leaves and flower petals don’t look all that great, and they hinder plant health to boot.
The grubs can also chew on roots, leading to tissue death above the soil line.
An effective method of physical control, “soapy death” entails picking or flicking the bugs into a bucket of soapy water, which drowns them.
If you catch a pair of bugs mating, don’t be shy about going for double points – I imagine there are worse ways to go.
Make sure to use soapy death in the morning or evening, when the bugs aren’t as spry.
Alternatively, you could use neem oil as a deterrent, but it does require repeat applications every few days or so.
To keep disease risk down to an absolute minimum, make sure to use sterilized gardening tools and disease-free soils.
Leaf Spot
Caused by various types of fungi and bacteria, leaf spot results in the formation of brown and black spots on foliage, which can hinder photosynthesis and reduce plant aesthetics.
Prune away and dispose of leaves if the majority of their surfaces are afflicted.
In the case of fungal leaf spot, copper fungicides can work as a preventative measure if this issue has been a known problem in your garden in the past.
But depending on the severity, additional symptoms include necrotic lesions, stunted growth, leaf rolling, and even death in extreme cases.
As high ambient humidity promotes disease development, it’s important to properly space plants and avoid overhead irrigation.
Rake up nearby plant detritus to interfere with fungal life cycles, and cut away any severely afflicted tissues for disposal.
Root Rot
With drought tolerance often comes an inability to handle excess soil moisture, and Oenothera is no exception.
Whether it’s caused by too much watering, poor drainage, or a combination of both, oversaturated soils don’t allow the roots to take up as much oxygen.
This suffocation tends to leave the roots necrotic and mushy, followed by nasty aboveground symptoms in the shoots such as chlorosis, wilting, and even death.
Preventing root rot requires reducing excess water, whether by limiting irrigation, improving soil drainage, or both.
If your plants are already afflicted, dig up and remove the rotted roots. If the majority of the root system is rotted, then the plant should probably be pitched.
Best Uses
With an assortment of species to choose from, there’s an evening primrose for almost every garden.
Along walkways and borders, in a raised bed or container, and as a ground cover or a grouping of specimens, species of Oenothera offer a ton of planting options.
Regardless of the species, the late-day appearance of the flowers is a sight to behold.
You could try your hand at using these plants for medicinal or culinary purposes, if you so desire.
But it definitely pays to be cautious and do the necessary research before putting any part of a plant from the garden in or on your body.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous flowering annual, biennial, or perennial
If you’re like me, then you’ve probably used a pros and cons list to make decisions.
If you’re considering a species of Oenothera for your garden, here’s a spoiler warning: that list is gonna be quite imbalanced towards the “pros” side.
Evening primroses are stunning, tough, and versatile plantings for your landscape – that’s a claim I’ll swear by. But the only way you’ll know for sure is if you grow them for yourself. So what are you waiting for?
Do you have anecdotes, questions, or experiences of your own to share? The comments section awaits.
Looking for other drought-tolerant flowers to add to the garden? Lo and behold:
Are you ready to diversify your garden and spice up your meals? It’s time to learn how to grow tomatillos – the lesser-known, zesty cousin of the tomato. These versatile fruits are perfect for adding a tangy twist to your favorite dishes, such as salsas and sauces. Tomatillos are not only easy to cultivate but also love warm weather and yield an abundant harvest. So, let’s dive into the world of tomatillos and discover how you can grow these delightful green gems in your own garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
7 Tips for How to Grow Tomatillos
1. Plant tomatillos correctly and at the best time
When to plant tomatillos:
Tomatillos require a long growing season, so it’s wise to start seeds indoors or purchase healthy transplants from a local nursery to ensure your tomatillos have ample time to grow and produce a bountiful harvest.
If starting from seed indoors, start seeds 6 – 8 weeks before the last frost. Not sure when your last frost date is? Enter your zip code into this Frost Date Calculator.
The ideal time to plant tomatillos is when the danger of frost has passed, and the soil temperature reaches at least 60°F (15.5°C). Tomatillos prefer warm soil (70-80℉ / 21-26°C) and are frost and cold-sensitive. Use a soil thermometer to check soil temperature before planting.
In the low desert of Arizona:
How to plant tomatillos:
When transplanting seedlings outdoors, ensure they are spaced 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (1 m) apart to provide ample room for growth. Tomatillos thrive in well-draining, fertile soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Amend your soil with compost or well-rotted manure. For square-foot gardening, allow 4 squares per plant.
Tomatillo means “little tomato” in Spanish, and just like tomatoes, tomatillos can be planted deeply – up to the top leaves of the plant. Roots will form along the stem of the buried tomatillo and feed the growing plant.
2. Give tomatillos plenty of room, support & sunlight
When planting tomatillos, give them plenty of room to grow and support to climb. Tomatillo plants can reach up to 5 feet (1.5 m) in height and 3 feet (1 m) in width, so make sure you give them enough space for their roots to spread out.
As tomatillo plants grow, they can become quite heavy with fruit. Provide support by staking or using tomato cages to keep branches off the ground and prevent damage.
Tomatillos also need plenty of sunlight, so choose a spot that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun each day.
Provide afternoon shade for tomatillos if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona. This post shares ways to add shade to your garden.
3. Encourage pollination for a successful harvest
One essential tip for successfully growing tomatillos is to always plant at least two plants near each other. Unlike other plants, tomatillos are not self-fruitful and require cross-pollination to produce fruit. By planting a minimum of two tomatillo plants in proximity, you’ll ensure that pollinators can easily transfer pollen between them, leading to a plentiful harvest.
Encourage pollinators like bees and butterflies to visit your garden by planting flowers nearby. This will help ensure successful cross-pollination and fruit set.
Nasturtium interplanted with tomatillos
4. Care for growing tomatillos correctly
Tomatillos need even moisture to prevent blossom end rot. The soil should be well-draining. Water regularly during dry periods. Avoid overwatering, as this can lead to root rot.
Mulching: Apply a layer of organic mulch around the base of your plants to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
Don’t give tomatillos supplemental nitrogen, as this can lead to excessive foliage growth at the expense of fruit production. Instead, provide a balanced, organic fertilizer high in phosphorous and potassium to encourage healthy fruiting as needed. To determine whether your soil is lacking these essential nutrients, consider conducting a soil test.
Remove any suckers (small shoots growing from the base of the plant) and lower leaves that touch the ground to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of disease.
5. Keep an eye out for common pests & diseases
Tomatillos, like other plants, can fall prey to various pests and diseases
Common pests that may affect your tomatillo plants:
Aphids: These tiny insects suck sap from plant leaves, causing them to curl and distort. They can also spread plant viruses.
Tomato Hornworms: These large green caterpillars can cause significant damage to tomatillo foliage. Handpick them from your plants or use a natural pesticide like Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to control their population.
Tomato hornworm
Flea Beetles: These small black beetles chew tiny holes in the leaves. Use floating row covers to protect young plants, or apply diatomaceous earth.
Whiteflies: These small white insects feed on plant sap, leading to yellowing leaves and stunted growth. Control whiteflies with sticky traps.
Cutworms: These caterpillars feed on the stems of young plants at ground level, causing them to collapse. Protect your plants by placing collars around the base of the stem or applying diatomaceous earth.
Spider Mites: These tiny pests can cause leaves to turn yellow and dry out. Increase humidity around your plants.
Three-lined Cucumber Beetles: These beetles feed on the foliage and flowers of various plants, including tomatillos, causing significant damage and potentially spreading bacterial wilt.
Leafhopper eggs and cucumber beetle eggs
Methods to manage and prevent pest damage on tomatillo plants:
Regularly inspect your tomatillo plants for signs of pests; early detection is key to successfully keeping them in check.
Physical barriers: Use floating row covers to protect your plants, especially during the early stages of growth when they are most vulnerable.
Beneficial insects: Encourage natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps by planting diverse flowering plants in your garden.
Trap crops: Plant attractive trap crops, such as borage, near your tomatillos to lure pests away from your main crop. Read this blog post for more companion planting ideas.
Handpicking: Be vigilant about checking your tomatillo plants and handpick beetles. Check the undersides of leaves for eggs. Keep a cup of soapy water near your plant to dispose of pests easily.
Lacewing eggs (beneficial) and captured cucumber beetles
Diseases that may affect your tomatillo plants:
Early blight: This fungal disease causes dark spots on leaves, which can eventually lead to yellowing and dropping off. It can also cause lesions on stems and fruits.
Late blight: Another fungal disease that causes irregular-shaped brown or black spots on leaves, stems, and fruits. Late blight can spread quickly and is often more severe in cool, wet conditions.
Verticillium wilt: A soil-borne fungal disease that causes yellowing and wilting of leaves, usually starting from the lower part of the plant and moving upward.
Fusarium wilt: Similar to Verticillium wilt, Fusarium wilt is also a soil-borne fungal disease that causes wilting and yellowing of leaves.
Previously healthy tomatillo plant after succumbing to wilt
Prevention of common tomatillo diseases:
Crop rotation: Rotate your crops every 2-3 years to minimize the buildup of soil-borne pathogens.
Plant resistant varieties: Choose tomatillo varieties resistant to common diseases when possible.
Healthy soil: Maintain healthy soil with good drainage and proper nutrient balance. Use compost and organic matter to improve soil structure.
Watering: Water your plants at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, which can promote fungal growth. Water early in the day to allow leaves to dry before nightfall.
Pruning: Remove any diseased or damaged plant parts and maintain good air circulation by pruning excess foliage.
Sanitation: Clean up plant debris and fallen leaves to reduce the chance of disease spreading.
Organic Treatment for tomatillo diseases:
Baking soda spray: Mix one tablespoon of baking soda with 2.5 tablespoons of vegetable oil and a gallon of water. Spray on affected plants every 7-10 days to help control fungal diseases.
Copper fungicides: Use copper-based fungicides as a preventative measure or to treat early signs of fungal diseases. Always follow the label instructions for proper application.
Biological control: Use beneficial microorganisms like Trichoderma or Bacillus subtilis to suppress soil-borne pathogens.
Ladybug on dill planted next to tomatillos / Cup of soapy water ready to catch cucumber beetles
6. Harvest tomatillos at the right time
Fruit typically begins to ripen 60 – 80 days after transplant and continues to produce through frost. Picking tomatillos as they ripen encourages the plant to keep producing.
Underripe
Overripe
Just Right
Loose husk
Very dry husk
Husk just beginning to dry out
Fruit is small and hard
Yellow fruit
Fruit fills husk
Larger seeds
Slight softening of fruit
Less flavor
Best flavor; smaller seeds
7. Enjoy the harvest
Once you know how to grow tomatillos, you’ll have plenty to share with family and friends.
Storing: Keep your tomatillos fresh by storing them in the refrigerator with their husks still on. This helps maintain their freshness and flavor for an extended period.
Preparation: When you’re ready to use your tomatillos, remove the husks and rinse off any sticky residue under running water.
Fresh uses: Chop up fresh tomatillos and add them to guacamole or salsa for a tangy twist. Their unique flavor complements many dishes, especially those from Mexican cuisine.
Cooking methods: Roasting or sautéing tomatillos brings out their natural sweetness and deepens their flavor. For a deliciously complex taste, use roasted or sautéed tomatillos in sauces, salsas, or stews.
Roasted tomatillo sauce
If this post about how to grow tomatillos was helpful, please share it:
“What are you using as mulch? It looks like straw, which you’ve warned against, so I imagine I’m incorrect.”
No, you’re not incorrect. It is straw. And I regularly warn people about using hay, straw, manure and various composts because of the extremely high risk of killing your garden with long-term herbicides.
As in this video:
It’s a serious issue, and you need to be really sure that your sources for mulch, manure and compost are free of these satanic ingredients.
However, that does not mean the actual amendments themselves are the problem. Straw and hay are excellent additions to the garden. We’ve used both for chicken coop bedding, mulch, compost pile additives, lasagna garden layers, storage for potatoes and more. We’ve also used manure to make compost, to layer into garden beds and as a dried addition to our potting soil mixes.
For thousands of years, they were perfectly fine to use. And now they often aren’t, thanks to the jackasses in government and Big Ag companies.
You can use hay, straw and manure if you know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that they do not contain long-term herbicide contamination.
In the case of the hay we’re using as mulch in the garden and for our compost piles, it came from a friend who does not spray his fields. This is becoming a rarity, and we are glad to support him by buying his hay any time we need it.
Just don’t trust anything you can’t verify is clean, or it can literally destroy your garden for months or years.
Ensuring your plants and turf get the right amount of water is absolutely critical to their health and vigor. Water helps roots uptake and distribute nutrients as well as help them develop and anchor plants and turf for robust growth. But exactly how much water is “the right amount”?
Three things to keep in mind when it comes to proper watering:
Type of plant (from high-water-requiring turf to less thirsty succulents)
Your soil conditions (compacted, clay, sandy or loam soils as well as if the ground is level or has dips and valleys where water can pool or runoff, respectively)
Here are some general watering tips to keep in mind:
“Watering well,” means wetting the soil to a depth of between 6-12 inches. Deep watering encourages roots to grow deeply.
Avoid watering at night since water can remain on leaves without the sun to help it evaporate, contributing to fungal growth and disease.
Newly planted sod needs to be watered twice a day, for about 20 minutes per session every day for at least two months. This should be enough so that your lawn gets a solid six inches of watering per cycle.
Water new shrubs and trees to their drip line (extent of their branches).
Water new plants right at their base (a soaker hose is great for this).
Since new plants need more water than established plants, if you’re adding just one or two new plants to the garden, you may want to skip the soaker hose and just water at the base of those new additions so your other plants don’t get over-watered.
Water a plant as soon as you’ve planted it, but be gentle. A slow steady trickle of water for about 15 minutes is ideal. Blasting the base with a hose can damage roots, cause soil erosion and waste water, since the plant won’t be able to soak it up that quickly.
For the first week, do a 15-minute slow trickle watering every day. Succulents may only need to be watered every other day depending on conditions.
On days when it rains over an inch, you can skip watering for that day.
During the second week you can use the same watering method but now cut back to watering every other day. Succulents may only need watering 2-3 times per week based on conditions.
By week 3, you can reduce watering to 2-3 times per week and continue this watering schedule for the remainder of the first growing season. Be aware of conditions and water more during hot dry periods and less during rainy, cooler periods.
Container plants dry out quickly and will need to be watered at least every other day if not daily. Check by sticking your finger into the soil to see if it’s dry or still wet.
Pickled white onions are so delicious, and this recipe is quick and easy to make with only a handful of common ingredients. They’re sure to become a staple for your family from the first bite.
Making them is a wonderful and unique way to use up the crop from your garden, or from the farmer’s market or grocery store.
In this post, I’m sharing the best homemade white onions recipe, and I’ll also show you exactly how to make it step by step.
You could either keep them in the refrigerator, or can them to enjoy them even longer. They’re fantastic on burgers, salads, and sandwiches, added to a chartreuse board, or as a zesty side to any dish.
Homemade Pickled White Onion Recipe
What I like the most about this quick pickled white onions recipe is that it isn’t complicated. All you need are some common ingredients that you can find at any grocery store.
Plus it’s very customizable, so you can tweak it and try different combinations of herbs and spices to see what you like the most.
What Do Pickled White Onions Taste Like?
This pickled white onions recipe tastes delightfully tangy, with a touch of sweetness, and has a satisfying crunch.
You can experiment with the different herbs and seasonings you add, which really directs the extra notes of flavor you can enjoy with them.
Making your own pickled white onions is not difficult, and you’ll be so happy with the results.
I recommend starting by following my recipe exactly the first time you make them. Then you can try your own tweaks to it next time, if you want. There’s a lot of room to experiment with it.
Pickled White Onions Recipe Ingredients
You’ll only need a handful of common ingredients for this recipe, most of which you probably already have on hand. Here’s what it calls for.
White onions – Choose white onions that are well developed and firm to the touch. If you’re in a pinch you could sub yellow or red onions, but it will alter the flavor.
Garlic cloves – Once in the brine, this adds a sweet tangy note to the recipe, and enhances the richness.
Fresh dill – Adds a zest that balances out the acidity of the vinegar. If you don’t have fresh, you can use ⅓ the amount of dried instead.
Apple cider vinegar – Offers a mellow and fruity flavor that blends well with spices. If you prefer you can substitute for white vinegar instead.
Mustard seed – Adds a sharp and zingy yet earthy flavor to the brine.
Black peppercorns – This adds a bright and fresh flavor, even slightly citrusy, but you can omit it in a pinch.
Salt – This is a flavor enhancer that also helps encourage a nice crisp texture, and is an essential element in the pickling process. You can use either regular or pickling salt.
Sugar – Adds sweetness to the brine as well as balancing out the acidity of the vinegar.
Water – Balances out the vinegar in the brine so it’s not too acidic or bitter, and provides extra liquid for the recipe.
You don’t need any fancy tools or equipment to make this recipe, just a few kitchen items. Be sure to gather everything together before you begin.
Tips For Making Pickled White Onions
I created this recipe to be uncomplicated so that anyone can make it. Below are a few tips for the best success, as well as a few modifications if you want to try other variations.
This recipe moves fast, so gather all of your tools and ingredients ahead of time so that everything is ready to go.
There’s a lot of flexibility in this recipe when it comes to the seasoning, so you can have fun experimenting with the herbs and spices you use if you’d like.
You can add more or less dill, try using other herbs, or spice it up with red pepper flakes or a dash of cumin.
Since the brine is acidic, you could can your pickled white onions in a water bath canner if you want them to last longer.
All you need to do is place your filled jars in the boiling water bath to seal them. Process pints for 10 minutes and quarts for 15, making sure to adjust for altitude if necessary.
Using & Storing Pickled White Onions
For the best flavor, allow your pickled white onions to marinade for at least 2 days in the refrigerator before eating them.
Once they’re ready, you can snack on them right out of the jar, or use them on your favorite burger or sandwich.
They’re also great as a tangy accompaniment to any dish, added to an appetizer tray, or on a salad.
How Long Do Homemade Pickled White Onions Last?
Unopened jars of pickled white onions will last in the refrigerator for about 2-4 months. Once the jar is open, they are good for 2 weeks.
If you can them they will last up to one year stored in a cool, dark area. Note that they may lose some of their crispy texture as they age on the shelf.
White onions packed in jars for pickling
FAQs
Below I’ll answer some of the most commonly asked questions about pickling white onions.
Are pickled white onions the same as red onions?
No, pickled white onions are not the same as red onions, though the recipes can be very similar. But red onions tend to have a sweeter flavor than white.
Do you have to soak white onions in salt before pickling?
No, you do not have to soak white onions in salt before pickling them.
How do you pickle white onions long term?
You can pickle white onions and keep them long term by canning them. Since the brine is acidic, it’s safe to process the jars in a boiling water bath canner.
What are pickled white onions made of?
Pickled white onions are primarily made of onions, vinegar, water, salt, and sugar with added seasoning and herbs of your choice.
If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!
Share your favorite pickled white onions recipe in the comments section below.
Recipe & Instructions
Yield: 3 pints
Pickled White Onions Recipe
This pickled white onions recipe comes together in just 20 minutes and will have you crunching on a perfectly crisp and tangy treat in 2 days. They’re delicious straight out of the jar, or on a juicy burger, relish tray, as a zesty side dish, or on your favorite sandwich.
Prep Time 5 minutes
Cook Time 15 minutes
Additional Time 2 days
Total Time 2 days20 minutes
Notes
For the best flavor, allow your pickled onions to absorb the flavors of the brine for 1-2 days in the fridge before eating.
This recipe is flexible in how you flavor it. You can experiment with the level of sweetness, adding different herbs, such as basil or green onion, or spice it up with cumin or red chili flakes, for example.
If I tell you that the oldest living cultivated fruit tree in America is nearly 400 years old, would you believe me? Well, it’s true. And not only that, it’s a pear tree! Who knew?
According to the New England Historical Society, William Endicott planted the specimen sometime between 1630 and 1649 on his farm in Massachusetts.
This mighty pear tree has survived almost 400 years of drought, vandalism, and changes in land use and ownership. And, it still stands today.
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I planted my own Pyrus saplings in 2018, and I’ll be honest – I wasn’t thinking about how long they might live.
I was thinking more about how long it might take them to produce the sweet, succulent fruit I craved.
But now, after learning about the Endicott pear tree, I’m wondering if my own specimens might still be standing in 400 years. Wouldn’t that just be cool?
And let’s be honest, planting fruit trees can be considered an investment – a long-term investment in some cases – and a longer life means a better return on that investment.
We all want our pear trees to live as long as possible, don’t we?
To give mine their best chance of longevity, I’ve done some research, and I’d love to share it with you. Here’s what I’ll be covering in this article:
If you’re thinking about planting a pear tree, or you’ve already planted or inherited one, you’re probably curious to learn more. Let’s go!
How Fast Do Pear Trees Grow?
If there were only one kind of pear in existence, this would be a straightforward, simple answer.
But because there are more than 3,000 varieties grown worldwide, the best I can do is give you an approximate idea of their life expectancy.
Before I define the range, here’s some background to give context to the conversation.
Cultivars are bred from parent plants to encourage certain desirable traits, like making them more resilient to survive in different climates, or USDA Hardiness Zones.
That breeding process, which changes how each cultivar behaves – paired with the conditions it is subjected to – can affect growth rate and production. These and other factors also determine how long a tree will live.
Long story short, some varieties grow very slowly, and some grow quickly. It depends on your Zone, and the particular variety in question.
One example is the ‘Bartlett’ pear, which can grow at a fast rate – up to 24 inches per year!
But wait! It’s not all about genetics and geographic location. There are outside factors that can affect growth rate as well.
You’ll be happy to learn that you can take steps to influence how fast your specimen grows.
You can control things like care and maintenance, pruning, soil conditions, and irrigation. I’ll explain more about these later. Read on.
When Will They Produce Fruit?
I don’t want you to think I’m just repeating myself, but maybe I am repeating myself.
As above, the answer to this question is dependent on factors I’ve already mentioned. It can take anywhere between three and 10 years for your trees to begin flowering and producing fruit.
Speaking of flowers, I will add one important factor here. If you want your pear tree to produce fruit, you need to understand the pollination process. Some varieties will self-pollinate and some need a mate.
Since this article discusses pears and how they age, I won’t be covering details about pollination here.
How Long Do Pear Trees Live?
There is no doubt about it – the Endicott pear in Massachusetts is special. Not all pear trees can survive 400 incredible trips around the sun.
Some care guides for different cultivars, like the ‘Bradford,’ will project a lifespan as short as 15 to 25 years. However, the flowering ‘Bradford’ isn’t really cultivated for fruit production, but rather, for ornamental landscaping purposes.
If a fruiting type doesn’t begin producing fruit until it’s three to 10 years old, that wouldn’t be a lot of time to reap all the reward from the years of hard work you put into its care.
Thankfully, fruiting varieties usually live longer. It’s not uncommon to find trees as old as 50 years that are still producing fruit.
If rigorous care is taken, and growing conditions are ideal, they can live a full and glorious life of up to 200 years.
This means if you choose the variety wisely, and take great care of it, your tree can realistically provide fruit and enjoyment in the landscape for several future generations.
What Can Impact the Lifespan of a Pear Tree?
You can take steps to influence the lifespan of your pear tree.
By doing so, you’ll not only leave a legacy for future generations to enjoy, you’ll also benefit from higher productivity with a bountiful harvest.
Threats such as disease, drought stress, nutrient imbalance, and winter damage can all be identified and addressed. Ready to learn more? Let’s review.
Infectious Disease Control
Pear trees can usually be grown with little need for fungicides or insecticides.
But sometimes they’re prone to different infectious fungal and bacterial diseases that can completely defoliate your tree if left untreated, leading to death.
Fireblight is probably the most common and worrisome of all potential diseases.
This bacterial infection usually occurs in warm, humid regions, and can be avoided by choosing varieties that are more resistant, and treating immediately upon diagnosis.
If you want to grow healthy specimens, you should learn to recognize fireblight. Although it can appear any time during the season, it will usually begin during the bloom period.
Tissue will appear water-soaked then wither and blacken quickly. The disease will creep down the branch from the original point of infection, killing leaves and flowers as it spreads. The infected areas can ooze a milky fluid that becomes reddish-brown as it dries.
Once you detect fireblight, cut out and burn the diseased portions. Spray will not control the disease in infected branches.
If your trees haven’t been infected but you’re concerned about it, you can take preventative steps by implementing a spray program beginning at bloom and continuing through the summer.
Other diseases to look out for are scab, black rot, bitter rot, and pear leaf spot.
Fluctuating temperature changes and prolonged exposure to extreme cold can easily shock the life out of a pear tree. But don’t let that stop you from planting one!
With so many varieties to choose from, you should be able to find a few that will thrive in your Zone. Here in 5b, I’ve got access to several interesting cultivars of different shapes and sizes.
What we’re most concerned with when talking about hardiness is extreme temperature changes.
If you experience lower winter temps in your Zone, this limits the number of species or varieties that are bred for success.
Some varieties can tolerate winters in Zone 4, but even fewer can withstand the bitter winters of Zone 3. ‘Summercrisp,’ available from FastGrowingTrees.com, is a good choice.
If you live in Zone 3, check with your local nursery for additional options.
Your growing Zone also has a unique season length. For example, for me in Zone 5, certain species are able to capitalize better on the short window of time they have to move through their growth and fruiting cycles.
I’ll admit, sometimes I’m jealous of you folks who live in warm regions with long summers.
Although my Scandinavian blood is genetically coded for happy hibernation, sometimes I think it would be so luxurious to have a few more fruit tree options to choose from.
Pest Management
Pests come in two forms: insects and animals. And both can do enough damage to stunt growth and even kill a tree.
Insects like borers, spider mites, scale, aphids, and fruit worms can attack, especially if fruit trees are poorly managed.
Select disease-resistant varieties, prune during dormancy, and destroy infested fruit to promote health and vitality.
Encourage natural predators like ladybugs. Try natural orchard sprays during dormancy. And if all else fails, get serious with pesticides.
Just be sure to check your local health and safety guidelines, and read instructions for application carefully.
Yes, our furry garden friends are cute. But some will destroy your pear trees.
Voles and rabbits have no shame in munching away at young branches and trunks. And believe me, they work fast!
One of my young specimens was almost completely girdled by a bunny in less than an hour.
Don’t fret. There are a few options to deter rodents.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
Pick up some plastic tree guards and wrap the trunks of young specimens. Push the guard down into the soil an inch or two to block the little voles.
I’ve tried a few different kinds of guards, and I really like the spiral kind like this one from Amazon because they’re easy to take on and off, and they expand if the trunk grows quickly.
Hardware cloth (wire) cages work well also. Cut a length from the wire mesh roll, like this one from Amazon.
Form into a circle to fit around the base of your tree, and push the bottom down into the ground a few inches. Secure the cage with a garden stake.
Some experts will suggest that most pest damage like this occurs in the winter when animals are more hungry and foraging for food, and that it’s okay to remove protection for the summer.
Although this is probably true for older specimens, please don’t risk this on your young trees, which are tasty and attractive to critters at all times.
I’ve got a lot of wildlife in my city neighborhood and on my urban farm. Don’t even get me started on squirrels!
So, after my devastating experience, and almost losing one of my trees, I doubled up on my pest control.
I take this very seriously. I use guards AND cages, together at the same time!
Tab’s tip: Leave the pointy bits exposed when you cut the wire for your protective cages. It seems sinister, but it does keep those little soft paws and noses off your territory.
Site Selection, Soil, and Pruning
Although Pyrus species can tolerate clay soils, they will grow the best and attain greater longevity when planted in deep, well-drained soils.
When choosing a planting site, aim for some elevation and good airflow.
This can decrease the probability of frost damage, and allows leaves to dry quicker, reducing humidity that can lead to disease.
Also consider spacing between trees. Successful pollination requires a minimum distance between plantings, but if they are planted too close together, your specimens can age much faster, sending them to an early demise.
Pruning your specimen will increase vigor and prolong its life, making it happier and healthier in general. Check out our guide for more information about how and when to prune pears.
Irrigation
Pear trees are pretty darn tough. They can handle some drought. But watering once a week will aid in their growth and survival.
In my mini orchard, I created a swale that captures rain and feeds the roots, but summers here in Ontario have been a little dry the last few years.
I’m in the process of installing drip irrigation right now, and I think it will add years to the lives of all my plants.
Irrigation is like the fountain of youth for pear trees, but be careful not to overwater. It can be just as damaging if the roots become too waterlogged!
Leave a Legacy of Pears for Future Generations
The pear tree is an ancient Chinese symbol of immortality because of its longevity and prosperity.
Add this symbol to your own garden, and set it up for success by taking a few careful steps to nurture its health.
Select the best planting site, source the hardiest variety for your Zone, protect it from disease and pests, and feed with plenty of nutrients and regular watering.
If you want to make your mark on this world and leave a legacy for future generations to enjoy, like the Endicott pear tree in Massachusetts, plant a pear today!
How old are your specimens? I’d love to know which varieties you have growing on your property! Please share your success stories, or lessons learned, with me in the comments below.
I live in Central Florida and have an established Carambola (Star Fruit) tree. Very prolific grower with an abundance of fruit each year. Very drought & wind tolerant fruit tree as well as being a beautiful & reliable shade tree. I cut it back to about 1/2 it’s height every couple of years and it grows back and has never missed a season of providing an exceptional harvest. Learning how to CAN fruit is on my bucket list but for now, I use a dehydrator. Dehydrated star fruit is fantastic and I sprinkle some of the batch with cinnamon. Makes a very tasty treat!
I have a massive mango tree which I have hired tree trimmers to cut back twice in recent years. Both times I lost a season of fruit but on that second year the harvests were larger than previous years have ever been and the size, quality & taste of the fruit has been exceptional. Mangoes that taste like honey! This tree is also drought & wind tolerant and is the biggest and best shade tree in the yard!
Finally David, I want you to know that I have two Florida Mahogany trees! One was planted about 25 years ago in the dry, scrub habitat I reside in on the Lake Wales Ridge on some vacant land I own across from my home. It was about 3 ft tall when I put it in the ground & watered it for the first two weeks and that’s it! Never pruned, Never fertilized and the only water it gets is from Mother Nature … just let God take the lead. Beautiful kinda pear shaped canopy that it designed itself, unlike the Mother tree it came from (which was massive like the one in a video you posted on YT). This tree is now, I’d say about 30 feet tall. Two years ago I finally found a sapling and dug it up. I put it in a five gal. pot, nurtured it through the winter, watched it grow from 14 inches to 3 feet. I planted it in the ground in late Spring and staked it, watered it and protected it during the 2022 hurricane Ian. It survived and is now about 6 feet tall. I grew up in South FL with a huge Mahogany tree in our front yard. Both of these trees are descendants of that tree. I can’t wait for this one to grow big and provide beauty & shade to the front yard. And yes, I know all about the seed pods they produce (I call them hand grenades) and hope to be able to get some seeds started for great grand baby trees in the future. Thanks for sharing so much of your knowledge.
Growing up in South Florida, I only was dimly aware of how good we had it. We harvested coconuts and mangos, calamondins and key limes, grapefruit and pineapples… it was just a way of life.
Now that I live in Lower Alabama, I miss some of those species a lot. We had our four-year run in the Caribbean, though, so we have lots of memories of fresh tropical fruit.
If you’re in South Florida, roll with it! Enjoy what the climate offers you, and don’t get hung up on the few things you can’t grow. It’s a huge blessing to live in a place where the bounty of the tropics can be transplanted into your own backyard.
Today we’re getting ready for our first official nursery sale since launching Alabama Food Forests.
If you’re local to Escambia County Alabama, we’ll be setting up at the Atmore Flea Market on Saturday morning, from 8AM – 1PM.
ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL
The official announcement, as posted on YouTube:
ALABAMA FOOD FORESTS GRAND OPENING SALE!!! Come meet us and get some “GOOD” plants THIS SATURDAY! We will have our nursery booth set up at the Atmore Flea Market, from 8AM to probably around 1PM.
ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL
Some of the plants for sale include:
Tobacco transplants Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young” Goji berries Coffee (Coffea arabica) Various herbs Banana (Dwarf Cavendish) Black walnut Daisies Elderberries Surinam cherry …plus quite a few other cool things.
We will also have books, and maybe some T-shirts. Please come on by – would love to meet you! Thank you to all of you who told me you were interested in attending if we set up. There was enough interest that we’ve decided to go for it. You guys are amazing.
The Peperomia Napoli Nights comes from the huge Piperaceae plant family (Peperomia) of over 1,000 ornamental plants.
Peperomia plants originate from the Amazon basin in South America. It is known best for its lush leaves. Its botanical name is Peperomia spp.
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Peperomia Napoli Nights is a stout hybrid plant. The cross used a select cultivar of Peperomia peruviana as the female with the pollen from Peperomia marmorata.
Peperomias have a few common names, but the most common name is “the radiator plant.”
Napoli Nights Peperomia Quick Care Tips
Botanical Name: Peperomia ‘Napoli Nights’
Pronunciation: pep-er-ROH-mee-uh NA-poh-lee
Common Name(s): Peperomia caperata ‘Napoli Nights’, Napoli Nights Radiator Plant
Family & Origin: Piperaceae, Hybrid, South America
Growability: Easy to grow, perfect for beginners
Size: 6″ to 8″ inches tall and wide
Flowering: Produces small, insignificant flowers
Light: Bright, indirect light
Humidity: Prefers moderate to high humidity
Temperature: 65-75°F (18-24°C)
Soil: Well-draining, peat-based potting mix
Water: Allow the top 1″-2″ inches of soil to dry before watering
Fertilizer: Balanced liquid fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, applied every 4-6 weeks during the growing season
Pests & Diseases: Susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, and root rot if overwatered
Propagation: Leaf or stem cuttings
Uses: Ideal as a houseplant, terrarium plant, or in mixed container gardens
This article will delve into the proper care instructions to make your Peperomia Napoli Nights a healthy and happy plant.
Peperomia Napoli Nights Care
Size and Growth
Peperomia Napoli Nights have a mound growth habit that grows slowly and doesn’t get much taller than a foot. You can plant them at any time, but planting them at the start of spring is best.
The oval-shaped leaves display a grey-green color pattern on the upper surface. The underside of the leaves is pink-red.
Its mounding foliage features an attractive and glossy silver color or grey coloration.
What about the Peperomia Napoli Nights Flower? Most variations of the plant produce a brightly-colored flower spike.
The flower has no real fragrance.
Lighting Conditions and Temperature
Napoli Night grows best in shady, humid conditions and prefers medium to indirect sunlight.
They are easy to care for and can grow in most rooms. They need bright indirect light for a few hours each day.
Windows facing south, east, or west provide the best lighting options.
Peperomia Caperata Napoli Nights grow best in temperatures between 65° and 75° Fahrenheit. It should not be exposed to temperatures below 50° Fahrenheit.
If the leaf is dark green, direct sun can damage it. Like most Peperomia plants, Napoli Nights grows well under fluorescent lighting.
Remember, if this plant is left in direct sunlight, the leaves will lose their color.
Add humidity by placing your plant on top of a pebble tray filled with water. Keep your plant away from heating or air conditioning vents.
Watering and Feeding
Napoli Nights Peperomia care requires watering only once a week. Unlike houseplants, this plant needs less water.
When watering, allow the soil to dry out before watering. This translates into watering once a week.
Feel the top 2″ inches of the topsoil with either your finger or a moisture probe tool to tell when the soil is dry. You might even dip these tools in three inches if need be.
If the moisture probe reads 1 or 2, then the plant is too dry.
During warmer months, you can get away with lightly misting the plant.
It’s also best to provide medium humidity levels for healthy growth. You can do this by providing a pebble tray or humidifier.
The thick leaves of the Peperomia Napoli plant store water over long periods, especially in winter.
If the ridged leaves start to yellow or wilt, that could be a sign of overwatering. So ensure there are enough drainage holes to allow the excess water to drain.
Use a diluted liquid fertilizer once every two weeks during the spring. Fertilize once per month during summer. Don’t fertilize during the autumn and winter months.
Peperomia Napoli Care: Soil Requirements and Transplanting
Peperomia Napoli Nights thrive in well-draining soil. But soil mix that’s well-drained also works well.
For this purpose, a peat-based potting mix is best. You can use 2 parts peat and 1 part perlite or sand as well.
Using sand or loam also works.
It’s a good idea to change the soil once a year.
Grooming And Maintenance
Peperomia plants do not have extensive root systems. Repotting often to accommodate root growth is unnecessary. When in doubt, lean toward a smaller pot size to prevent the potting soil from waterlogging.
Consider replanting your peperomia every two or three years to replace the soil.
They look their best when the leaves are bushy. Pinching out the tops of their stems makes plants bushier.
If your Napoli Nights Peperomia grows taller than a foot, it might need pruning. Make sure you use sterilized pruning scissors or knives.
Remove yellowed leaves or extra growth as necessary. Pruning the plant too much can damage its growth.
Peperomia Napoli Nights Propagation
Propagate peperomia using tip cuttings with a few leaves still attached. Place the stem cutting in a small container with fresh, moist seed-starting soils.
The plant should grow in a 68° degrees Fahrenheit (20℃) room with warm, bright light.
We always use a rooting hormone to speed up the rooting process.
New plants can also be started from single two-inch leaf cuttings. Follow the same procedure described above.
Be careful with variegated Peperomia Napoli Nights. They might lose their variegation in propagation. You should allow the leaves or stem tips to dry before planting them.
It might take some experimentation to see which propagation method works best.
Luckily, Peperomia care does not involve worrying about many pests or diseases. The plant might lose a few bottom leaves from time to time, but that’s normal.
But, if a plant starts losing several bottom leaves, it could be a sign of:
Overwatering
Temperature drop
Over-fertilizing
Mealybugs
Check for mealybugs if your peperomia develops cotton-like white masses on the stem or leaf bottoms.
These tiny soft insects surround themselves in white fuzz. Mealy bugs suck the juice from their host plants, causing the plant’s leaves to turn yellow.
You can get rid of mealybugs with neem oil sprays or use a homemade insecticidal soap.
Today we’re visiting with Mariel Tribbly. Mariel does most of her gardening at her job at the Missouri Botanical Garden in St. Louis, where she is in charge of the rock garden. She is also a board member of the North American Rock Garden Society, and she grows a lot of cool rock garden plants. Sometimes these plants have a reputation for being difficult to grow, but mostly they just need good drainage and good plant choices. The St. Louis area has hot, humid summers and pretty cold winters (Zone 6), but Mariel cultivates lots of great plants that love those conditions.
Note: A lot of these plants are so uncommonly grown that there isn’t a lot of information on winter hardiness, so many of the Zone rankings below are educated guesses.
This Campanula formanekiana (Zones 6–8) is just loaded down with flowers! The species generally grows as a biennial, so this explosion of blooms may be its swan song before leaving the garden, but wow, what a beautiful display!
A fly visitor is pollinating this Aristolochia tomentosa (Zones 5–8). Aristolochia’s odd flowers lure in flies with colors—and sometimes smells—that trick them into thinking the flowers are carrion that they can lay their eggs on. Once a fly crawls into the flower, backward-pointing hairs keep it trapped; as it buzzes around, it gets covered with pollen. It is only released when another fly enters that already has pollen from another flower on it. That pollinates the flower and causes the hairs to collapse, releasing the pollen-covered fly to go off and pollinate the next flower.
Globularia punctata (Zones 3–8) looks beautiful in the morning light. This plant forms a low cushion or carpet with these blue blooms in spring.
Penstemon cobaea (Zones 5–8) is in full bloom. There are nearly 300 different species of penstemon, native mostly to western North America, and many of them are beautiful additions to the garden. Most, but not all, require well-drained soil to thrive.
Mariel says she’s a big fan of Dracocephalum ruyschiana (Zones 3–7), as it is easy to grow and not overly vigorous or aggressive, despite being in the mint family.
There is a whole world of little rock garden irises. This is Iris timofejewii (Zones 4–8) with the bright yellow Aurinia saxatilis (Zones 3–7) behind it. What an amazing color combination!
Pulsatilla (Zones 4–8) emerge with their incredibly fuzzy new leaves and flowers early in the spring. These emerged so early that they caught a dusting of late snow on their blooms.
Campanula baumgartenii (Zones 4–8) and Sileneschafta (Zones 3–9) grow together in a tapestry of cheery blooms.
If you want to see more from Mariel, check out her Instagram: @rockeryplantess
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
