Category: Home & Garden

Henno comments on YouTube:

“This system isn’t only working like a charm, it’s by far the most enjoyable piece of garden I have. Working in the grocery row always seems easy, and it also gives off a good vibe. The diversity feeds our souls in a very GOOD way. My grocery is going for its second year but it looks like it’s been there for a while already. Incredibly lush and vigorous. (…) 

The only thing that can improve a grocery row is adding another row.”

We have certainly enjoyed the way it’s worked out, and others are catching on as well and planting their own Grocery Row Gardens.

Our first two Grocery Row Garden beds in North Florida:

Our next ones, in Grenada, just being planted:

And a few months later:

Then, we moved to the states, and built the system again at The Sand Pit of Death:

Despite the “soil,” we still had success.

And now, at our current (and hopefully final) homestead, we have planted our largest Grocery Row Gardens yet:

In a few more months it should be as lush as the ones we had in Grenada and at the previous homestead down the road.

If you’d like to see how this system can be created, from start to finish, check out our complete video demonstration:

And/or, get the popular little booklet that lays it all out.

We’re having lots of fun – I think you will as well.

Finally, here’s Henno’s Grocery Row Garden:

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Today we’re visiting with Seth Kilgore.

Here are some photos of my tiny garden. I garden in Plymouth and Boston, Massachusetts. I have four plots in three different community gardens, plus my tiny yard in Plymouth. I enjoy having different gardens to tend because the sense of discovery is a delight with each visit.

All the plants in this photo were taken from my mother’s garden before we sold her home. It offers me joy for many reasons.

I am most interested in conifers for landscaping because of the year-round interest they provide in New England.

Junipers (Juniperus sp., Zones 3–9) cover this slope with durable, evergreen foliage.

Coral-bark Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Sango kaku’, Zones 5–9) provides brilliant color all winter long thanks to the bright bark on its branches. Combining this with conifers ensures that this garden looks great any day of the year, even through the snowy months.

My rabbit remediation effort—while the rabbits may ignore it, my neighbors get a kick out of it.

My favorite combination is the screening from the neighbors next door. The contrast of the shine of the Manhattan euonymus (Euonymus kiautschovicus ‘Manhattan’, Zones 5–8) and the frilly ‘Degroot’s Spire’ arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Degroot’s Spire’, Zones 2–7) appeals to me and is most effective with its mission of providing a good screen.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

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And newer cultivars are even more versatile with tidier growth and spectacular multi-season color.

Join us now for a look at the best way to grow beautiful spirea.

Cultivation and History

Spiraea, commonly spelled spirea, is a genus of over 80 woody shrubs in the Rosaceae (rose) family. Native to temperate zones in the Northern Hemisphere, the greatest diversity of species is found in eastern China.

Named from the Greek word speira, which means spiral, it refers to their wreath-like display of showy, small flowers. Growing in grouped panicles, flat-topped corymbs, or clusters in colors of mauve, pink, red, rose, and white, each tiny flower looks like a mini apple blossom with five petals and numerous stamens.

These hardy deciduous plants have simple, lanceolate leaves, typically with toothed margins, that are arranged alternately along the stems.

Plants are classified as either spring or summer flowering, and both types are prized for their carefree growth, abundant flowers, and reliable form.

Spring blooming species, like bridalwreath, have a graceful cascading habit with masses of white flowers that bloom in April and May perched along bowing branches.

Summer flowering plants display flowers of pink, red, or white that perch atop upright stems and bloom from June to August.

And the color doesn’t stop in the autumn, spirea displays beautiful red foliage in the fall.

Shrubs are mostly deer resistant and attract butterflies and other pollinators. Typically, plants are hardy in Zones 4-9 although some are more heat or cold tolerant.

Propagation

The most reliable methods of propagation are by hardwood or softwood cuttings and ground layering.

Read our detailed guide to spirea propagation here.

How to Grow

Spirea are wonderfully carefree and easy to grow.

They do best when planted in soil of average fertility with a neutral or slightly acidic pH.

Generally, they’re not heavy feeders and over-fertilizing should be avoided to prevent sprawl. A light application of a balanced, time release fertilizer (10-10-10) applied in the spring provides enough nutrition for the year.

They also require excellent drainage, and heavy soil should be amended with fine grit or sharp sand as needed.

Plants require a full sun to light shade location, with spring flowering specimens better suited to partial shade than summer flowering ones.

To plant, dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball. Sprinkle the planting hole with bone meal.

Gently loosen any twisted roots and place the root ball in the hole then backfill with the removed soil and firm in place. Water gently to settle and cover with a 2 to 3-inch layer of compost.

Spirea are drought tolerant but need to be watered regularly until established.

Growing Tips

• Spirea are tolerant of some shade, but full sun produces more flowers with more vibrant colors and brighter fall color.
• Ensure your shrubs are spaced properly with adequate room to grow to maturity.
• Avoid overfertilizing. A single feed of a balanced fertilizer in spring is enough for the entire growing season.
• Deadhead flowers after blooming to tidy up plants and encourage reblooming.
• Ensure your plant has excellent drainage as standing in wet feet can cause fatal damage.

Pruning and Maintenance

Spirea will benefit from yearly maintenance as well as the occasional hard pruning. And because they’re fast growers, a liberal pruning has negligible impact to flowering – if done at the right time.

Spring flowering varieties bloom on old growth from the previous year and need to be pruned right after flowering.

Spring canes can be cut right to the ground or trimmed back to any length to keep growth compact.

Summer flowering varieties bloom mostly on new wood from this year’s growth, so these are pruned in the winter following flowering.

Remove any dead wood and trim lightly to shape.

If summer bloomers become overgrown, a more vigorous pruning may be needed. Cut back by as much as two-thirds in winter when plants are dormant.

And both categories will also enjoy a light shear after flowering to remove spent blooms, encourage reblooming, and invigorate foliage.

Find more tips on pruning spirea shrubs here.

Frost resistant, established plants don’t require any special winter care. However, new shrubs planted in late summer or fall should be mulched to protect roots from the cold.

And any container plants should be moved to a sheltered location or wrapped with insulation to protect roots from freezing temperatures.

Calendula Cultivation

Daisy-like calendula may be gold, orange, or red, with a row of petal-like rays surrounding a compact central disc of tiny florets.

It blooms throughout the summer in filtered sunlight to part shade, with moderate moisture and organically-rich, well-draining soil.

Expect 50 to 60 days to maturity and plant dimensions nine to 24 inches tall and 12 inches wide.

A good garden companion, calendula attracts bees, butterflies, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps, beneficial insects that contribute to pollination and diversity in the landscape.

Maintenance consists of pinching back leggy stems to preserve a compact form and deadheading to encourage optimal blooming throughout the growing season.

How to Harvest the Flowers

The best time to pick the flowers is in the late morning after the dew has dried and before the sun is high.

Choose flowers that are three-quarters of the way open for the best flavor. Avoid those with blemishes or malformations, as they may suffer from pests or diseases.

You’ll need a gathering vessel and clean scissors.

Snip off each flower stem above a pair of leaves so you have stems to hold on to, allowing the remaining stems to regrow and bloom again. Lay the stems in your basket.

Pick enough for your immediate needs or extra to dry and store for future use.

Drying and Storing Tips

If you have an abundance of blooms and want to keep them for use at a later date, you can dry and store them.

Here’s how:

Fill a medium-sized bowl about halfway with clean, cold water.

Grasp several stems, turn them upside down, and swish the blossoms in the water to rid them of debris and insects. Gently shake off excess water over the bowl. Change the water periodically to keep it fresh.

Snip the stems off beneath the base or involucral bract. Discard the stems.

Lay the blossoms face down in a single layer on linen or paper towels.

When all are clean and snipped, remove them from the towels and spread them face down in a single layer on clean screens or baking cooling racks that let air circulate around them.

Place the racks in a cool, dry location away from direct sunlight, where they can remain for a week or more while the blossoms dry completely. During this time, some petals will detach, and that’s okay.

When completely dry, inspect for signs of mold, like wetness and black or white discoloration. Discard those affected.

Store the dry blossoms in clean, dry glass jars with tight-fitting lids.

Place the jars in a dark, dry cupboard for up to a year.

Tea Time

Once you’ve harvested the flowers, you can make delicious hot or iced tea with a pleasantly sweet fragrance and robust peppery nuances.

For one cup, you’ll need:

• A strainer, infuser, teapot with a strainer spout, or sachets
• Boiling water
• Fresh or dry flowers
• Liquid measuring cup
• Measuring spoons
• One-cup mug

Here’s what to do:

• Bring one cup of water to a rolling boil.
• Measure three to six grams of fresh or dried blossoms.

There are some choices for steeping:

1. Place the flowers in the liquid measuring cup, pour the boiling water over them, steep, and pour the tea through the strainer and into your mug.
2. Put the flowers into an infuser or sachet, place the infuser or sachet into your mug, pour the boiling water in, and steep.
3. Place the loose flowers into a teapot that has a strainer spout, add the boiling water, steep, and fill your mug.

For whichever method you choose, steep the flowers for 10 minutes and serve with no petal fragments.

Here’s how to make a pitcher of iced calendula tea:

• Boil six cups of water in a two-quart pot.
• Put three to six grams of fresh or dry flowers in another two-quart pot.
• Pour the boiling water over the blooms.
• Steep for 10 minutes.
• Pour the tea through a strainer and into an eight-cup pitcher.
• Cool it to room temperature.
• Fill an ice cube tray with tea and freeze it.

Put the pitcher with the remaining tea in the refrigerator.

Add the ice to the pitcher, or individual glasses, just before serving.

Serve iced with a sprig of your favorite mint.

Justicia brandegeana

I’ve always found arrangements of shrimp to be ultra alluring.

And when I first laid eyes on the shrimp plant, I knew deep within my seafood-loving bones that this enticing aesthetic could be applied to the landscape as well, and I was overjoyed.

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Okay, okay, I know it’s not actual shrimp that Justicia brandegeana is flaunting, but rather, shrimp-esque bracts.

But boy howdy, do they look similar, almost mouth-wateringly so. A real shrimp-oster, if you will.

The rest of this shrimp plant is also quite appealing.

From the lush evergreen leaves to its delightful form, this shrub is a full-blown smorgasbord of ornamental beauty, whether grown in-ground or in a container.

Just like putting actual shrimp on the barbie, growing J. brandegeana is well worth it.

A stunning specimen that’s easy to care for, the shrimp plant is enjoyable by all, regardless of shellfish allergy. And with our guide, you’ll learn how to cultivate yours the right way.

Here’s what’s comin’ atcha’:

What Are Shrimp Plants?

A member of the Acanthus family alongside hummingbird plants, Persian shield, and Mexican petunias, J. brandegeana is a gorgeous evergreen shrub that hails from the tropics of Mexico.

Hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11, shrimp plants can reach heights and spreads of up to five feet in the amply hot and humid conditions of their native growing sites, but will likely be smaller if they’re grown in a more temperate climate or in containers.

With an open, sprawling habit and a tendency to expand via suckering, J. brandegeana boasts simple, oppositely-arranged, and lightly hairy leaves of an ovate shape with a bright green hue.

Towards the tip of the stems you’ll find the shrimp-like bracts that give the plant its name.

Starting out a dark red color, the arching bracts gradually shift in hue to bronze, and then abruptly to green as your eyes move further up the stem.

At the tip of the bracts hang skinny, fragrance-free flowers with white petals, a maroon throat, and purple anthers.

These flowers will bloom throughout the majority of the year in tropical conditions, from early spring to late fall. But in cooler and/or drier climates, the bloom period can be reduced to just the summertime.

The plant is monoecious, meaning a single specimen contains both male and female flowers.

Attracting hummingbirds and butterflies, the flowers are short-lived and quickly replaced throughout the blooming season.

After pollination, flowers give way to brown, non-showy fruit capsules, each containing tiny seeds.

Cultivation and History

In terms of having an impact on humanity, the shrimp plant isn’t as significant as, say, bamboo or indigo plants.

But it definitely contributed to the ornamental landscape and houseplant scene – the UK’s Royal Horticultural Society awarded J. brandegeana its prestigious Award of Garden Merit in 1913.

The genus and species names of J. brandegeana have some interesting backstories.

Justicia was named after the Scottish gardener James Justice, an influential horticulturist in the early 18th century who authored many practical writings on northern climate gardening and conducted many botanical experiments.

The specific epithet brandegeana owes its name to the botanist, plant collector, and surveyor Townsend S. Brandegee, who was a specialist on the flora of Mexico’s Baja region.

Another notable species in the Justicia genus is J. spicigera, aka Mexican honeysuckle, which you can read more about in our guide.

Propagation

Trying to acquire some shrimp plants? Your best avenues of doing so are propagation via stem cuttings, division, and transplanting.

From Stem Cuttings

In spring or summer, select healthy shoots to take four- to six-inch cuttings with a sterilized blade, and be sure to remove any blooms if they’re present.

Defoliate the bottom two inches of each cutting, making sure to leave at least two healthy leaves intact.

Dip the cut ends in a rooting hormone, such as this IBA powder from Bonide that’s available via Arbico Organics.

Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder

Stick the hormone-powdered ends of each cutting into individual four-inch containers filled with a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite.

Moisten the media, then drape a clear plastic bag over each container to maintain ambient humidity. Make sure to keep the bag away from the cutting so it isn’t touching.

Place the containers in indirect light by a sunny window, and keep the growing medium moist as the cuttings take root. Occasionally lift the plastic coverings to increase airflow and check for mold.

Rooting should occur in six to eight weeks. Remove the humidity bags and repot the cuttings as needed, keeping the media moist and providing indirect light all the while.

The following spring, the cuttings should be ready to harden off outdoors. Leave the containers outside in full sun to partial shade for 30 to 60 minutes before taking them back inside.

Every subsequent day, add 30 minutes to a full hour of outdoor time until the plants can handle a full day of outdoor exposure. At this point, they’re ready to transplant!

Via Division

Whether your potted J. brandegeana is in too small of a container or you simply want to break up a large in-ground clump, division is a fantastic way of making the most of the shrimp plants that you do have.

In springtime, select a large or cramped specimen to lift out of its planting site or container, making sure to water it well the day before you plan to divide.

After gently lifting the plant from the ground or container – making sure to gingerly handle it and avoid damaging the root system – lay your plant across a spread-out tarp so you can see what you’re working with.

With a sharp and sterilized blade, cut the crown into two or more equally-sized sections, with roots and aboveground growth attached.

If necessary, a saw or pruners can be used to break up especially tough roots. Untangle the roots and shoots of each division from each other, and these pieces now have the green light for transplanting!

Via Transplanting

In your garden, prepare individual planting sites in well-draining, fertile soils with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. 

Space the sites about one to five feet apart, and ensure that the sites receive full sun to partial shade. Prepare holes the depth of and a bit wider than the transplants’ root systems.

For container-grown plants, select a well-draining pot that is about two inches larger in diameter than the transplant’s root system, add a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite, and then make ample room for the root system.

Lower the transplant into the hole, and then backfill with soil or potting media. For added fertility, work some organic matter such as compost into your backfill material. Water in around the root zone afterwards, and presto!

How to Grow

At this point, you’ve got a pretty J. brandegeana in the ground or a container. Let’s discuss how to keep it happy and healthy.

Climate and Exposure Needs

Provided that they’re growing in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, shrimp plants can thrive outdoors all year long.

But in more temperate gardens, they should be brought inside once temperatures start to dip below freezing.

If a bout of cold has suddenly struck without warning, then some thermal coverings will help your specimens conserve heat, buying them some time.

For a thermal polypropylene blanket that’s lined with grommets and available in multiple dimensions, try the Planket®, available from Amazon.

Planket

Whether it’s a seasonal houseguest or a full-time houseplant, an indoor J. brandegeana does well in temperatures ranging from 65 to 75°F.

Provide some ambient humidity by grouping it with other houseplants, keeping it in a well-lit bathroom, or placing a humidifier nearby.

For the best bract color, partial shade with protection from afternoon sun is ideal.

Full sun works, but it can leave the bracts looking a little sun-bleached. For proper indoor exposure, provide bright indirect light.

Soil Needs

The ideal soil was mentioned earlier: well-draining and fertile, with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0.

Post-planting, fertility can be supplemented by working an inch or two of organic matter into the soil or growing media each year in the spring.

Irrigation and Fertilization Needs

Like most members of the Acanthaceae family, shrimp plants prefer to sit in evenly-moist soils. But unlike most of its relatives, J. brandegeana can take a bit of afternoon dryness and wilting.

This isn’t ideal for blooming, though, so aim to add water whenever the surface of the soil or growing media feels dry to the touch.

Alongside organic matter amendments, an optimal fertilization plan entails applications of a balanced liquid NPK fertilizer, diluted down to half-strength and applied every two weeks throughout the growing season.

Growing Tips

• Partial shade exposure is best for blooming, although full sun works.
• Ensure that the soil or growing media is well-draining.
• Water whenever the surface of the soil or growing media feels dry to the touch.

Pruning and Maintenance

Any damaged, diseased, or dying tissues can be pruned away whenever you happen to notice them.

A more dedicated pruning session for shaping the plant how you like should take place before the growing season begins in spring.

To encourage a more compact growth habit, feel free to pinch back the growth tips as desired. Spent flowers can be pinched as well to foster more frequent reblooming.

Read more about deadheading flowers in our guide.

Adding a couple inches of mulch atop the root zone can help tremendously with moisture retention and weed suppression.

For container-bound specimens in gardens to the north of Zone 9, don’t forget to move them inside before temperatures dip below freezing, and wait to bring them back outdoors until the return of warm weather.

Regardless of location, containerized J. brandegeana should be repotted as needed into a container about two inches wider than the root system within.

Where to Buy

Even for those who live in the tropics of Zones 9 to 11, J. brandegeana may not be the easiest to find.

Your best bets are local plant nurseries and online plant vendors based in warm regions of the country.

Online shopping is a nice way of acquiring plants that might otherwise be unavailable for in-person purchase in your area.

If you do decide to buy some J. brandegeana via the Internet, only do so via reputable vendors.

Once you’ve found your shrimp plant plug, make sure any purchases won’t be shipped during periods of potentially harmful temperature extremes.

And of course, you always have the option of consulting your IRL plant pals. If a fellow green thumb has a specimen for you to take a cutting or division from, then go for it!

Depending on the location and who’s going, plant swaps and horticultural shows may be helpful for acquiring some J. brandegeana, as well as some new gardening friends!

Managing Pests and Disease

Not many health issues plague shrimp plants, but that doesn’t mean they’re immune to problems. Let’s break down some potential threats, shall we?

Pests

Insects have an annoying tendency to spread pathogens as they feed, so cracking down on bugs usually includes cracking down on diseases, as an added bonus.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are itty-bitty pests that, if you care to look at them with a hand lens, have oval bodies covered with fine, bristly hairs.

But what’ll probably draw your eye to their presence is the fine webbing that they weave over infested structures.

Puncturing plant cells to feed, spider mites can cause foliage to exhibit stippling, revealing the tiny feeding spots, as well as chlorosis, browning, and leaf death.

Strong sprays of water can physically knock the pests off of surfaces, while applications of horticultural oil or insecticidal soap will actually smother them.

Monterey Horticultural Oil

If you’re interested, Monterey sells 32-ounce, ready-to-spray bottles of horticultural oil that are available via Amazon.

Read more about managing spider mite infestations in our guide.

Whiteflies

Well, whiteflies live up to their name in appearance, albeit only halfway.

They look like tiny white moths that are covered with a fine, whitish powder… but technically, they’re not true flies.

As members of the Hemiptera order, they’re relatives of scale, mealybugs, and aphids.

Whiteflies have piercing-sucking mouthparts, which they use to extract essential botanical juices from leaves like a chlorophyll-flavored Capri-Sun. As a result of this feeding, leaves often exhibit chlorosis and wilting.

Upon their detection, whiteflies can be caught with yellow sticky traps, repelled with reflective mulch, or consumed by beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps.

Such beneficial insects can be purchased via Arbico Organics.

Learn more about whiteflies in our guide.

Disease

As any doctor, epidemiologist, or gas station bathroom attendant could tell you, disease can easily spread when conditions aren’t kept at least somewhat sterile.

Therefore, it would behoove you and your garden to utilize sterilized tools, clean soils and growing media, and disease-free stock.

Leaf Spot

A variety of different types of fungi and bacteria cause leaf spot diseases, but the universal synonymous symptom is, well, leaf spots.

Regardless of the shape, size, or color of the spots, these take up valuable photosynthetic real estate on the leaves, which can cause foliage loss and reduced vigor.

Adequate spacing, proper airflow, and avoidance of overhead irrigation can all reduce the chances of leaf spot. Rake up nearby detritus to limit potential overwintering sites for pathogens.

When applied prior to the appearance of symptoms, fungicides may offer some preventative protection.

Lightly spotted leaves can be left alone, while heavily spotted ones should be pruned and destroyed promptly.

Root Rot

Whether it’s abiotic or caused by a pathogen, root rot is primarily the result of excessively wet soils or growing mediums, whether due to too much watering, not enough drainage, or both.

When the roots are surrounded by excess moisture, they don’t receive the oxygen that they need, which can end up suffocating them.

Suffocated roots show their displeasure via necrosis and death, symptoms which aren’t observable aboveground.

But what does become apparent above the soil line is the resultant chlorosis, mushiness, reduced growth, and wilting in the shoots. Eventually, the entire plant could perish.

When root rot first becomes apparent, it’s essential to reduce irrigation and/or improve drainage, whichever is necessary.

To rejuvenate an afflicted plant, you can dig it up to trim away the rotted-out roots and a proportionate amount of shoots, but if more than half of the roots are done for, then the rest of the plant probably is, too.

Best Uses

In the great outdoors, J. brandegeana is a stunning landscape specimen whose shrimpy bracts absolutely steal the show. In-ground, it’s gorgeous by itself or in a border line with others.

Containerized shrimp plants flaunt a versatile beauty, whether placed near a patio, by an entryway, or adjacent to some stairs.

But don’t forget – J. brandegeana can look right at home as a houseplant, too!

Since a shrimp plant in full bloom flaunts ample vibrant color, try pairing it with some tropical, foliage-dominant specimens such as Chinese evergreens, elephant ears, or snake plants.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Broadleaf evergreen shrub	Flower/Foliage Color:	White (red, pink, bronze, green bracts)/green
Native to:	Mexico	Maintenance:	Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):	9-11	Tolerance:	Heat, humidity, moderate drought
Bloom Time:	Summer (spring-fall in tropical climates)	Soil Type:	Fertile
Exposure:	Full sun, part shade	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:	5-10 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	1-5 feet	Attracts:	Butterflies, hummingbirds
Planting Depth:	Depth of root system	Uses:	Borders, houseplants, outdoor containers, specimen shrubs
Height:	1-5 feet	Order:	Lamiales
Spread:	1-5 feet	Family:	Acanthaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate	Genus:	Justicia
Common Pests and Disease:	Spider mites, whiteflies; leaf spot, root rot	Species:	Brandegeana

Quite Shrimp-ressive

There’s no denying it: if you want your flora to resemble a certain culinary crustacean, you literally cannot do better than J. brandegeana.

Except for maybe crab leg orchids or hanging lobster claws, perhaps… but I could go on seafood tangents all day. We’re talking purely about shrimp here.

Easy to care for, pretty, and with a ton of placement options, the shrimp plant is a true gem to have around, both in- and out-of-doors. I’d recommend putting this bad boy at the top of your “plants-to-plant” list, if you have one. You won’t regret it.

Have any questions? Any J. brandegeana experiences of your own to share? The comments section is your oyster (which coincidentally goes great with shrimp).

Can’t get enough of ornamental plants with animal-like features? Indulge your inner wild side with these guides:

Collaborative post

Have you ever sat in your beautifully maintained garden only to hear that all-too-familiar cooing sound, looked up, and saw a flock of pigeons descending? Or maybe you’ve spent a small fortune cleaning up pigeon droppings from your car or repairing the damage caused by their nests on your property? You’re not alone. 

Many of us appreciate the charm of pigeons in our cities and parks, but when they invade our personal spaces, they can quickly turn from a fun part of nature to a bit of a nuisance.

In their quest for food and shelter, pigeons can often become unwelcome guests. They can leave behind a mess, damage property, and even pose health risks due to the parasites they carry. 

To keep pigeons under control humanely, you can check out an innovative solution for pigeon control here. In this article, we’ll take a look at a range of effective, humane solutions to control pigeon populations. Whether you’re dealing with a persistent pigeon problem at your home, office, or any other property, these expert tips and techniques to help you reclaim your space.

Physical deterrents

Physical barriers provide a practical and effective approach when looking to maintain pigeon-free spaces. One of the advantages of using physical deterrents is that they don’t harm the birds; they simply prevent them from roosting or nesting in specific areas.

One effective method is the installation of bird netting. As simple as it may sound, this tool can be a real game-changer. Bird netting serves as a physical barrier that denies pigeons access to preferred nesting or perching sites. It can be used in various settings, from rooftops and balconies to gardens and courtyards. The effectiveness of bird netting lies in its versatility and the fact that it poses no harm to the birds.

If you’ve got pigeons settling down on your ledges or rooftops, you might want to look into bird spikes. As menacing as they sound, bird spikes don’t harm pigeons. Instead, they make surfaces uncomfortable for the birds to land or nest on. They are easy to install, require minimal maintenance, and can be an immediate turn-off for a pigeon looking for a comfortable roosting spot.

Another resource in your pigeon control toolkit is the bird slope. This ingenious device is designed to create an angle that pigeons find difficult to land on. Fitted onto ledges, eaves, and beams, bird slopes can help to keep those areas pigeon-free.

Remember, the key to effective pigeon control is making your space unattractive to them. These physical barrier methods, when implemented correctly, can help you achieve that goal.

Use of repellents

Repellents can be a great weapon in your arsenal against pigeon invasion. Not all repellents harm the birds; many just deter them and encourage them to find a less considerate location. Here, we’ll explore different types of repellents and how they can help maintain your pigeon-free space.

Auditory repellents are devices that emit sounds pigeons find distressing or associate with danger. They play on the bird’s natural instinct to avoid predators or hazardous situations. These devices can broadcast predator calls or distress signals from other pigeons. Proper positioning is key; place them near popular roosting spots for the best results.

Next on the list are visual repellents. These devices create visual disruptions that make pigeons uncomfortable. Reflective objects, holographic strips, or bird scare balloons can all work to unsettle pigeons and discourage them from hanging around. Their effect, however, can diminish over time as pigeons may get used to them. Rotating different visual deterrents can help maintain their impact.

Last but not least, there are taste and smell repellents. These are substances you can apply to areas where pigeons like to perch. They produce a taste or smell that irritates pigeons, forcing them to seek out more pleasant surroundings. As with other deterrents, application, and reapplication in the correct locations are key for these repellents to work effectively.

Technological solutions

In today’s modern age, technology plays a significant role in resolving many of our challenges, including dealing with pesky pigeons. There are various tech tools designed to help keep pigeons at bay, and they can be surprisingly effective when used correctly.

One solution you may want to explore is ultrasonic devices. These devices emit sound waves at frequencies higher than the human range of hearing but within the sensitivity range of pigeons. The high-frequency sounds are unsettling to pigeons, causing them to steer clear of areas where these devices operate. Ideal for indoor or enclosed spaces, ultrasonic devices can keep your home or business pigeon-free.

Another cutting-edge tool is the laser bird deterrent. These devices produce coloured laser patterns that confuse and scare away pigeons. Safe and humane, they can be particularly useful in darker areas, such as garages or barns, where the laser light is more visible. Remember, as with any device, correct positioning and occasional repositioning can optimise the results.

When you’re first starting out, all the necessary supplies you need for making cold process soap can feel overwhelming. What items do you absolutely need from that recipe? What items are optional? Here are all the soap making supplies I use for my soaps and when I use them.

Many years ago, I took a soap making course. I didn’t realize at the time just how much I would love it. Since then, it’s turned into one of my favourite pastimes. I love testing out new soap recipes and sharing all of my successes with you.

With soap making, as well as other beauty and herbal products, I have amassed quite a collection of soap making supplies. There are the basics you absolutely need to make cold process soap, like a scale, immersion blender, oils, and lye, and then there are all the fun extras like essential oils for fragrance and mica powders for colour.

Here is my personal collection of things you need for making soap, as well as some of the soaps you might use the soap making supplies for.

Looking to make melt and pour soap instead? Check out this resource guide.

This post will cover…

Natural Soap Making Supplies for Cold Process Soap

When it comes to soap making, you do need to acquire quite a few supplies upfront. Then, you slowly accumulate more oils, scents, colours, and other fun stuff to make some truly beautiful custom soaps. Here are all the things you need for making soap and the ones I personally use.

Equipment

The core of your soap making supplies will be the equipment you use every time you make your soap. Alongside every soap recipe I make, these are the materials I pull out and use every single time.

Safety Gear

Don’t even think about skimping out on your safety gear! When working with lye, you want to be extra careful as it can burn the skin before it goes through saponification and turns into soap.

Soap Moulds

Soap moulds are where you can really get creative. Loaf soap moulds are the most traditional, where you pour it all in, then cut it into squares or rectangles once it has set.

Alternatively, you can find some really fun shapes to turn your soap into. Here are some of my favourite moulds, though there are so many out there in just about any shape. Just look for silicone ones for easy removal.

Want a DIY soap mould for your first one? Use a milk carton and cut off the top. Once you’re ready to take the soap out, just tear away the milk carton.

Oils, Butters, and Fats

Oils and butters will compromise the base of your recipe. You can mix many of these oils together, and I really suggest you do so to get the perfect lather, clean, and moisturizing properties you’re looking for. Now, there are SO many you can use, but these are my go-to cold process soap making supplies.

For most of my soap recipes, I infuse beneficial plants like calendula, chamomile, rose, lavender, and more. You can see how I infuse my oils following these instructions.

Lye

You can’t have cold process soap without lye. Luckily, this ingredient is pretty straightforward. If you want to read more about what lye is and how to use it properly, I encourage you to read this post. Otherwise, you will just need lye (also known as sodium hydroxide) mixed with water (ideally distilled).

Essential Oils

Combining scents and making your own custom perfume blend is one of the best parts about making your own soap. While you can buy fragrance for soaps, I always use essential oils as they’re natural and very effective. Also, you can easily go for an unscented soap as well if you have a sensitive nose.

Colourants

Another way to display your artistry when making soaps is the colours you decide to you. You can layer different colours for an ombre effect or make swirls in your soap where every piece turns out differently.

Once again, you can buy artificial colourants, but these are the natural colourants I keep in my soap making supplies for cold process soaps.

Decorations

Of course, decorations are optional. My preferred way to top off my soaps is using dried flower petals I saved from the garden. But there are some other fun ways to top them off as well! Adding decorations is a simple way to polish off your soap.

Some soaps are extra special and call for some more ingredients. Here are some other soap making supplies I use occasionally and the soap recipes I created with them.

Frequently Asked Questions About Soap Making Supplies

Got any more soap making questions? Leave them in the comments below, and I’ll reply as soon as possible.

My Favourite Soap Recipes!

There are a myriad criteria when selecting plants to populate a garden or cultivated landscape: resilience, form, texture, multi-seasonal interest in terms of foliage, flowers, and fruit—and, for kitchen gardeners, cooks, and backyard foragers, is it edible? As summer begins to assert itself, yucca, readying to display its statuesque floral appeal, is reminding us that it checks every box. And several more. The developing flowering stem of yucca resembles an enormous asparagus stalk, and when it branches into a multitude of buds, each plant is transformed into a luminous floral candelabra, loved by pollinators, hummingbirds, and humans.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

Where I live in the Northeast, the regionally conspicuous yucca is Yucca filamentosa. It is used extensively in urban parks and public gardens and has spread to grow wild along shorelines, in old dunes, in pine barrens, and in sunny fields. Native to the Southeastern United States, this yucca has naturalized well beyond its native region. It is impressively hardy, down to USDA zone 4 (where it may need some protection from winter winds).

On the plant walks that I lead, it never fails to surprise people that this sharp plant is not a denizen of the desert (although it has many desert—as well as tropical—yucca relatives through the Americas).

The species—filamentosa—tells us something about the plant: it refers to the hair-like fibers that fray from each spiked leaf.

Despite growing happily in the rain-rich Northeast, Y. filamentosa has yet another quality to recommend it to horticulturists. It is water-wise. This is a resilient plant, requiring no additional irrigation once established. And there’s more: Those stabbing leaf-points are a natural deterrent where one might be needed, in public or private plantings; think of it as a botanical porcupine, or a living security plant. People (and deer!) keep their distance. There are other bonuses, for either the just-plain-curious or for the survival-obsessed: Yucca’s leaves provide cordage, and the dry flower stalks can help you make fire. It’s pounded root could help you poison and catch fish. It’s a plant for the apocalypse. But that’s another story…

Speaking of the root: In terms of eating yucca, there is a hurdle, and it is semantic: Yucca is not yuca.

Today we’re visiting with Tracy Tallman in Southern Ontario.

We live on a very shaded country lot. This limits our plant choices considerably. Our repeat favorites include Hosta (Zones 3–9), hellebores (Helleborus hybrids, Zones 5–8), Heuchera (Zones 5–9), bleeding hearts (Dicentra sp.), Japanese ferns (Athyrium niponicum, Zones 3–8), grasses, and ground covers. Natural moss is growing in between the path stones. It’s a wonderfully calming oasis.

The tried-and-true shade lovers that Tracy gardens with make a wonderful lush garden. The backdrop is a hemlock tree (Tsuga canadensis, Zones 3–7). In front, a bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis, Zones 2–8) and hostas bringing foliage in a variety of colors, shapes, and textures.

Every corner of a garden offers a chance to add some beautiful plants. Native Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia, Zones 3–9) softens the chain-link fence with climbing greenery.

Hostas in every shade of green, from massive to tiny, line the fence.

Though the hellebores have long since finished flowering, their pest-resistant, evergreen foliage still contributes to the garden.

Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris, Zones 4–8) covers this structure with lush green foliage and delicate sprays of white flowers. This vine can be slow-growing at first, but once it gets established it becomes a huge, beautiful part of the garden. It looks like the four-legged garden residents enjoy it as well.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

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To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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I’m spellbound by salvias. Several members of the Lamiaceae family dwell in my gardens.

Of course, I grow common sage for culinary and medicinal purposes. My Russian sage works to attract pollinators for my fruits.

Lemon balm and mints of all kinds stand guard, protecting the precious bare ground underneath.

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And although my Salvia nemorosa, or woodland sage, shares some of these functional purposes, I choose to grow it purely for pleasure.

Its feather-like foliage releases earthy aromas as my legs brush by. The violet spikes appear sharp and fierce, yet delicate at the same time – like a vulnerable Valkyrie.

Something about salvia tugs at my heart, causing a little lump to form in my throat that I can only describe as a primal urge to perform magic.

So, I’ll admit – when it’s time to divide my salvia, I become giddy with excitement.

If you’re wondering if you can divide your own plants, the answer is yes. And there are a few good reasons to do so.

You can control the size of an overgrown plant or rejuvenate a tired-looking one. Or propagate babies from an especially precious variety to populate other corners of your garden or share with friends.

I’ve got my book of spells (my plant journal) open to the page that explains everything you need to know about splitting and transplanting salvia.

This is the wisdom I’ll share:

Ready to get started? Grab your magic wand and let’s go.

When to Divide Salvia

To keep your salvia looking healthy and vibrant, plan to divide it every two to four years, depending on the variety.

The best time of year to divide is in the spring or fall when the plant is dormant. This helps it to focus more energy on growing new roots and leaf tissue.

The worst time to divide is while salvia is flowering or when it’s really hot and dry outside, as this will cause unnecessary stress to your plant.

Here in Zone 5b, I’ve split and transplanted in both the spring and fall with success. But a smart plan for most of you is going to be to aim for early spring.

This means you should start by taking good care of your plants through the summer.

Remove faded bloom spikes and water consistently to keep it healthy, prepping it for the best chance of successful division when you see the first signs of new growth the following year.

Spring is always a busy and chaotic time for me with garden clean-up and prep work, so I make notes for things like this – in my book of spells, of course!

If you keep a gardening journal or calendar, add it to your spring to-do list so you don’t forget about your good intentions with your salvia.

And if you don’t own one already, check out our roundup of the best gardening journals to add one to your bookshelf!

How to Prepare

Plan ahead to ensure a successful division and transplant. Here are some tasks to think about:

Gather your tools and supplies. You’ll need a shovel and a sharp cutting tool in case the root ball is dense.

Sometimes I use my trusty Barebones Ultimate Hori Hori, which you can find at Amazon. Or, read more about the best hori hori knives here.

Barebones Ultimate Hori Hori

If you’re planning to transplant into pots or containers, make sure you have them on hand, along with some potting soil for container-growing.

Try Burpee’s Premium Organic Potting Mix.

Burpee Premium Organic Potting Mix

If you’re transplanting into your gardens, think about where you want to put the new divisions.

My salvias welcome visitors at the entrance to my gardens, along paths, and at the bases of my birch trees.

They add fun pops of color and release their earthy scent when their foliage is disturbed by legs brushing past. Get creative and plan for new, unexpected spots!

Once you know where you want to plant your new divisions, dig and prep the holes. This minimizes the length of time roots spend out of the soil.

Estimate the size of your divisions, and dig each new hole about twice the size of the root balls.

Water the clump to be divided and the surrounding soil the day before you get to work, especially if the ground is dry. If there are a few days of rain in the forecast, this is the perfect time to divide and transplant.

Working on a cloudy, overcast day is the best because you won’t have the hot sun bearing down on exposed roots, drying them out.

Dividing Your Salvia Plant

Depending on the size of your plant, you can divide your salvia into several small baby plants or split it into two or three medium-sized plants.

Salvia is usually cooperative either way, so decide how many clumps you’ll finish with.

If you’ve got all your supplies and you’re ready to go, follow these steps:

1. Use your shovel to dig around and get underneath the roots.
2. Lift the plant out of the ground with your shovel or fork.
3. Loosen the soil on the root ball and shake some of it away to get a good look at the roots. You might see natural places to make your divisions.
4. If you can pull or tease the roots apart with your hands, do it. If the root ball is dense, cut the roots with a sharp knife or your shovel/spade. I use my hori hori knife for this step.
5. Each division, or new plant section, should have several good shoots and a portion of the root system attached. Keep the divisions shaded and moist until they’re replanted.

Transplanting Divisions

Whether into a pot or the ground, it’s best to immediately replant the divisions.

If you split your plant into many small pieces, it might be a good idea to put them into little pots and tend them through the summer, then transplant them in the ground in the fall.

This will keep the roots protected and safe while they develop for a season under your careful watch. You can move them in and out of the sun and water as necessary, giving you more control.

If you split larger chunks, you can safely transplant them directly into their new locations or give some away.

Salvias prefer average soil with good drainage.

Heavy clay soil can slow root growth and contribute to root rot problems, so in this case feel free to add some compost to the soil in the planting hole to help your divisions settle into their new homes.

Water in your transplants. Give them a good initial soak and continue daily for about a week if you don’t receive sufficient rain.

Keep the freshly planted divisions watered on a regular schedule through spring and summer.

Remember that most new divisions won’t bloom quite as well until the next season. If you notice some stunted behavior, don’t fret! Your plants will be glorious next year.

Tips for Care

These are some general tips for caring for your salvias that can be especially valuable if you’ve just divided your plants.

During the summer, remove faded bloom spikes to encourage continuous flowering.

If plants begin to flop or look generally unsightly in the middle of summer, try cutting back to the basal foliage. This may trigger new flower stem growth from the base of the plant.

After the last blooms of the season are spent, don’t cut the stems all the way down to the ground. Cut the flowers off to tidy the plant, but leave at least four to five inches of stem intact. 

In preparation for winter, place a thin layer of mulch over your salvia to prevent injury from harsh freezes.

A half inch of wood chips or straw is plenty – just enough to protect from extreme conditions. Remove the mulch in early spring to wake the plant up.

Learn more about how to grow salvia in our complete guide.

Spells for Splitting Salvia

That’s everything you need to know about when and how to divide your salvia, including steps for transplanting. I even shared my secret tips for encouraging healthy and robust plants!

I hope you’re feeling confident enough to try it on your own. Let us know in the comments section below, and feel free to ask any questions!

If you found this article helpful and you’re looking for more information, read these guides to growing salvia plants next:

I think a lot more gardeners are learning the importance of gardening without the use of chemicals.

While there is certainly a time and a place to break out the big guns, overuse can throw off the balance of your garden, which itself can lead to even more pest infestations and diseases. It becomes a vicious cycle.

But some plants, like roses, have a reputation for needing gallons and gallons of chemicals to keep them looking their best.

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Maybe some of the roses of yore deserve that reputation, but we have some excellent new hybrids that are truly carefree.

And that’s not to disparage antique roses – on the contrary, some of our oldest cultivars have proven themselves to be sturdy stalwarts as well.

In fact, growing roses without chemicals begins with selecting the right cultivars.

You might be able to keep any hybrid alive without the use of pesticides and fungicides, but it’s going to be a steep uphill battle.

If you pick sturdy, tough, disease-resistant types to begin with, your battle will be more of a slow ride down a gentle slope.

If you love roses but hate chemicals, you’re in the right place. In this guide, we’ll introduce 23 amazing options. Here they are, alphabetically:

23 of the Best Roses for Chemical-Free Gardens

One of the not-so-secret secrets to choosing chemical-free roses is to look for those that are disease resistant.

Wild roses, which are genetically closer to the original roses that grew for millennia without any human intervention, will obviously require less pampering. But who wants to garden with only species roses?

Hybrid teas, on the other hand, tend to be more prone to disease.

Location matters, too. A rose that is going to thrive in Arizona probably won’t be happy in Maine.

Similarly, growers in New Mexico probably don’t dread the words “black spot,” but they know all about spider mites, which love hot, dry conditions.

Southwestern gardeners will find that ‘Beverly’ is happy in their climate, while northeasterners will probably find ‘Therese Bugnet’ is happier in their neck of the woods.

Reach out to your local rose society to find which varieties they recommend for your area.

The location in your yard also matters. Yes, roses can grow in some shade, but they will always, always be happier in full sun. If your goal is chemical-free gardening, you’ve gotta plant in full sun.

You should also set your plants up for success by planting them in loamy, well-draining soil, making sure they’re well-spaced, and giving them the amount of water they need.

Let me also clarify that chemical-free doesn’t mean you won’t ever have to do any sort of intervention.

You’ll probably need to do some judicious pruning and you should follow good gardening practices like watering in the morning at the soil level. You might also need to dip into dormant oils or spraying your plants with water to knock off aphids.

Alright, enough talk. Let’s look at some of the most tried-and-true roses for a chemical-free garden.

1. Alister Stella Gray

While the flowers on ‘Alister Stella Gray’ aren’t huge, they make up for their lack of size with complexity.

As they open, the tightly scrolled buds are egg-yolk orange before unfurling into quartered, soft yellow blossoms. As they fade and drop, they transition once again to a pale cream.

It’s easy to see why this one has been consistently cultivated since 1854.

The blossoms appear in small groups on long stems and repeat bloom throughout the season.

This rambling noisette can grow as a tall, free-standing shrub, or it may be trained up a pillar or wall in Zones 5b to 10b. It will eventually reach up to 15 feet tall, but you can prune it to keep it shorter.

2. All a Twitter

Sweet and petite ‘All a Twitter’ will have the neighborhood talking. At just two feet tall and wide, she’s small but mighty.

The bush is covered in large clusters of semi-double blossoms in a brilliant, fiery orange color and these appear in flushes throughout the growing season.

Its petite size means this cultivar works well in containers, but it’s also ideal for chemical-free gardens in USDA Growing Zones 4 to 10 because it’s extremely disease resistant.

‘All a Twitter’

Start the conversation by heading to Nature Hills Nursery to purchase a live plant in a #2 container.

3. Carefree Beauty

One of the names you’ll see a lot on this list is Dr. Griffith Buck. What makes his cultivars worthwhile? Their disease resistance, shade tolerance, and general hardiness.

Dr. Buck had an interesting philosophy when he bred a rose. He would allow the plant to grow without any fungicides or pesticides, and without winter protection.

If it survived, it continued in the breeding program. If it didn’t, it was out.

His method has resulted in some extremely tough roses that are also incredibly beautiful. Some roses ask you to compromise hardiness for size or fullness, but not his cultivars.

‘Carefree Beauty’ is one such creation. At five feet tall, it’s a manageable size, but the large blossoms are double, bloom perpetually, have a strong and sweet fragrance, and appear singly or in small groups. Both red and pink options are available.

4. Cinderella

One look at this sweet lady all dressed up in her finest ballgown, and you’ll understand why any prince would be willing to scour the land to find her.

‘Cinderella’ is a Krodes climber with sweet pink clusters of medium-sized, very full blossoms that appear in flushes throughout the growing season.

It’ll bloom better if you deadhead though. In Zones 4 through 9, this plant will grow about six feet tall.

While this cultivar looks like a classic old rose, complete with a mild rose and apple fragrance, it’s actually a newer hybrid that has made a huge splash on the market since it was introduced in 2006.

5. Dark Desire

Once you see the nearly black buds unfurling into vibrant violet-red blossoms, you’re going to be hankering for this rose.

Bred by Kordes in 2003, the large, very full blossoms are heavily fragrant and smell of sweet citrus, peach, and old rose. They’ll appear in large flushes throughout the summer and fall.

This hybrid tea stays under five feet tall. Just don’t get too close as you fall in love – this shrub is armed with multitudes of vicious thorns.

Those brave enough for the dark delights can grow this rose in Zones 5 through 9.

6. Distant Drums

Given the chance, I’m determined to see ‘Distant Drums’ growing in every rose garden.

The unique mauve, copper, and blush blend of hues in the petals is simply unlike anything else out there.

These offer a constantly changing display of colors, starting with the reddish-pink buds that open to reveal pink, copper, and mauve blossoms.

Finally, they fade to blush and fall from the plant.

Bred by Dr. Griffith Buck, the full flowers are borne singly on a three-foot-tall and four-foot-wide floribunda shrub that blooms continuously.

It’s hardy in Zones 5b through 9b, and you can leave the chemicals in the cupboard because you won’t need them here.

7. Drift

The Drift series was seemingly bred with chemical-free growers in mind.

Sold as “ground cover” roses, they grow low and wide, and bloom from spring until the frost – even if you don’t bother maintaining them at all.

They’re disease-resistant and come in a range of appealing colors like pink, apricot, cream, coral, yellow, peach, red, and white. They are suitable for Zones 4 to 11.

If I had to pick a favorite, Apricot Drift® would be up there because of its orange-pink double blossoms that grow in large sprays.

It looks like a classic old world choice with a modern ground cover habit.

Apricot Drift®

Perfect Plants Nursery carries it in a three-gallon container.

But okay, wait. On second thought, maybe Sweet Drift® is my favorite? It has masses of perfectly pink double flowers.

Sweet Drift®

You can bring one of these home from Perfect Plants Nursery in a three-gallon container as well.

8. Easy Elegance

With “easy” in the name, you know it’s gotta be carefree. This series of roses is bred to be planted and forgotten. But that’s easier said than done.

Sure, you can forget worrying about maintenance, but the vibrant flowers are impossible to ignore!

Self-cleaning with perpetual blossoms, the flowers won’t quit on a shrub that says under two feet tall. It’s also tough enough to survive the winter chill as far north as Zone 4a.

Best of all, the breeder notes that these roses have “no complicated pruning or chemical applications required.”

Easy Elegance ‘Calypso’

Nature Hills Nursery carries the easygoing ‘Calypso’ peachy-pink color in #2 containers.

9. Fiji

Typically, if you want to avoid black spot and you aren’t willing to use chemicals, you’ll need to grow a rugosa. But ‘Fiji’ is practically immune, and it’s a hybrid tea.

It blooms in flushes with clusters of large, full flowers in a cherry-pink hue. The arching shrub grows about four feet tall.

‘Fiji’ is part of the Eleganza series, which is as fabulous as it sounds.

These shrubs are bred to be extremely disease resistant without compromising on the floral display, and ‘Fiji’ is one of the finest. Grow this hybrid tea in Zones 5 to 10.

10. Frida Kahlo

Art can be elegant and beautiful, but that doesn’t mean it’s without substance.

Disease-resistant and extremely vigorous, ‘Frida Kahlo’ is as tough as she is beautiful.

The vibrant reddish-orange, full blossoms are streaked with flecks of buff tan on a petite, three-foot-tall shrub.

The blossoms grow in flushes of small clusters or solitary flowers right through the fall.

‘Frida Kahlo’

She’s truly a work of art worthy of her namesake, and worth having in any garden. Bring home a live plant in a #2 or #3 container from Nature Hills Nursery for growing in Zones 5 to 9.

11. Julia Child

I’ll admit it, sometimes a good name makes me biased towards a plant.

I adore Julia Child, and I think these buttery yellow blossoms, named for the woman who proclaimed that anything could be made delicious with enough butter, do her justice.

But you could call this rose ‘WEKvossutono’ (its registered name), and I’d still love it.

The large, full flowers are borne singly or in small clusters, perfect for cutting and dressing up the dinner table. This cultivar blooms continuously throughout the season.

The shrub stays under three feet tall, and the blossoms have an intense licorice scent that is beyond delightful.

‘Julia Child’

If you’re as enamored as I am, get yourself a live plant in a two-gallon container at Fast Growing Trees.

Grow her in Zones 5 to 10. Bon appetit!

12. Hansa

Rugosa roses are tough as nails, thriving in heat, drought, salty conditions, and even shade, but some of them have lackluster blossoms. Well, not ‘Hansa.’

The striking pink-purple double flowers have a bold clove scent and appear in large clusters. This cultivar blooms once in the early summer and then again in the late summer.

Then along come the bright red rose hips, adding another season of color that lasts into the winter – if the wildlife doesn’t get them all first.

‘Hansa’

Hardy from Zone 3b to 7b, ‘Hansa’ is practically immune to pests and diseases.

Nature Hills Nursery carries ‘Hansa’ in #3 containers if you want to add it to your garden.

13. Knock Out

Knock Out roses, you could argue, are the ones that brought roses back into home gardens after they began to fall out of favor, and that’s because they’re practically maintenance-free, tough as nails, and require zero chemicals to keep happy.

They bloom constantly from spring through fall and grow in Zones 5 to 10.

The biggest complaint people have about these roses is that the flowers are smaller and simpler than those of some of the showier types out there.

Nowadays, though, the breeder has added larger, double blossoms to the Knock Out series that have that classic rose look.

Pink Double Knock Out

Right now, you can find these more impressive options in red and pink. To bring home the pink version, visit Perfect Plants Nursery to purchase a one- or three-gallon plant.

14. Kosmos

A gorgeous Kordes floribunda, ‘Kosmos’ has large, creamy, very full flowers with a peach center.

They appear in clusters and repeat bloom throughout the season for an ongoing display in Zones 6b to 9b.

The bush can grow nearly five feet tall, and the display doesn’t end in the fall when the flowers stop. The hips are large and bold red.

Since it was bred in 1997, ‘Kosmos’ has consistently proven to be extremely vigorous and disease-resistant.

Basically, you can sit back and enjoy the display without resorting to anything more than a seasonal pruning.

15. Mandarin Ice

You might notice a few names continually popping up on this list, and one of them is Kordes.

That’s because the well-known breeder has made it their mission to create disease-resistant shrubs that are perfect for chemical-free gardens.

‘Mandarin Ice’ was bred by Kordes in 1999, and they must have known they were onto a winner.

The medium-sized, semi-double blossoms form in big clusters on a three-foot-tall shrub.

Each flower is bright red on top and pinkish-white on the reverse, followed by bright red hips in the fall. It’s a truly unique display.

This rose has won award after award, including the Hague Golden Rose in 2011, the Kortrijk Silver Medal in 2010, the Den Haag Silver Medal in 2010, and the Baden-Baden Silver Medal 2009.

If you live in Zones 5 to 9, this rose will keep thriving even without chemicals.

16. Miracle on the Hudson

Remember in 2009 when a bird strike brought down a US Airways Flight and it was forced to make an emergency landing in the Hudson River?

That event was immortalized by this mildly fragrant, dark red rose.

‘Miracle on the Hudson’

With semi-double blossoms that cover the shrub from head to toe from spring until fall, it’s a beautiful reminder of the miraculous nature of life. It’s also exceptionally hardy and will grow in Zones 3 to 9.

To bring this memorial into your own garden, visit Fast Growing Trees to purchase a three-gallon live plant.

17. Mister Lincoln

‘Mister Lincoln’ is just cute, with classic red blossoms. But that’s not why this four-foot-tall hybrid tea shrub is so incredibly popular. It’s because it’s as tough as nails.

When breeders need a rootstock option, for years, they’ve turned to ‘Mister Lincoln’ because it’s disease-resistant, adaptable, and vigorous.

In fact, sometimes the roots are so vigorous that they’ll take over the scion, which is the upper part of a grafted plant.

Suddenly, people who thought they were growing something else now have a ‘Mister Lincoln’ in their yard.

‘Mister Lincoln’

You can’t go wrong with this one if you want to garden without chemicals. Grab one for your garden at Nature Hills Nursery.

18. Nearly Wild

Like a wild rose but more mild-mannered, ‘Nearly Wild’ won’t go all rangy and leggy, spreading where it’s not welcome. It has beautiful pink, single blossoms on a petite, three-foot-tall shrub.

As with its fully wild counterparts, it’s extremely disease-resistant, tolerant of a range of environments, cold hardy down to Zone 4, and it features bright orange hips in the fall.

‘Nearly Wild’ is a continual bloomer that benefits from deadheading and regular pruning.

‘Nearly Wild’

Ready to walk on the wild side, but not too far? Snag ‘Nearly Wild’ from Nature Hills Nursery in a #3 container.

19. New Dawn

The sun shone down on the growers who brought ‘New Dawn’ to market nearly 100 years ago.

This pink beauty has clusters of very full blossoms, and it blooms continually and reliably with sweet-smelling flowers from spring through fall.

This climbing rose can reach 15 feet tall in Zones 5 to 11, making it a killer option for a trellis or arbor near a patio.

‘New Dawn’

‘New Dawn’ was the foundation for many of the modern perpetual climbers, which says something about its robust, disease-resistant nature.

You can pick one up from Nature Hills Nursery in a #3 container.

20. Oso Easy

Oso Easy is a series of floribunda roses bred to be tough enough to thrive without pesticides or fungicides. The shrubs stay petite, under 36 inches tall.

I think ‘Italian Ice’ is particularly nice, with mouthwatering pink and yellow double blossoms on an adorably sweet foot-tall and 20-inch-wide shrub.

This sweet treat blooms from late spring through the fall without stopping or melting in the sun in Zones 5b and up.

‘Italian Ice’

If your mouth is watering for some ‘Italian Ice,’ head to Burpee for one of your own.

‘Mango Salsa’ is also deliciously delightful, with bright coral double flowers that appear in clusters in repeat flushes all summer long.

This one grows to a respectable two to three feet tall and wide.

‘Mango Salsa’

If this bold, bright rose is more your style, Nature Hills Nursery has it available in #3 containers.

21. Rugosa

Beyond Knock Outs or Drifts, rugosa roses are one type you can pretty much count on growing well without chemicals. They are so incredibly tough, it seems like nothing bothers them.

Rosarians joke that if you grow your shrubs in poor conditions, you’re growing fungal spores with a side of roses. But rugosas will avoid disease even in shady or poorly draining spots.

You can readily find the original pink and a snow white version, and both grow happily pretty much anywhere in Zones 3a to 10a. I guess the one downside is that they can be a little aggressive sometimes.

The shrubs are about four feet tall and spread up to 10 feet, but they’ll send out suckers that can spread indefinitely.

After the semi-double flowers fade, huge, juicy, reddish-orange hips appear and these persist on the bush until either wintery conditions or the birds get them, whichever comes first.

‘Alba’

‘Alba,’ the white option, is available for purchase at Nature Hills Nursery as a bare root or a live plant in a #2 container.

Pink Rugosa

The original pink is also available at Nature Hills Nursery, with the same options.

22. Serendipity

‘Serendipity’ has a coral center and large, pale blush petals on the exterior of the large, double blossoms.

The flowers have a pleasant cup shape and grow singly, so they’re a lovely cutting option too.

This hybrid tea was bred by Dr. Griffith Buck and reaches three feet tall in Zones 4b through 9b.

23. Zephirine Drouhin

It’s nearly thornless, robust, vigorous, and has large, bright pink double blossoms with a heady damask scent. And those bright blossoms? They bloom all season long.

‘Zephirine Drouhin’ can grow rapidly up to 15 or even 20 feet tall in Zones 5b through 10b, and when I say rapidly, I mean it.

I cut mine back to about a foot tall one spring so I could re-shape it, and it had already grown to about three feet tall by early May.

It’s also the first of my two dozen roses to start blooming every year. By mid-May, it’s covered in flowers already.

‘Zephirine Drouhin’

There’s no question in my mind why this bourbon classic has been popular for years. Nature Hills Nursery carries it in a #3 container.

Put the Chemicals Away

I’m a pain in the butt, I admit it. I don’t want to use chemicals in my garden because fostering a healthy environment is important to me.

But I also want to grow lots and lots of pretty roses. That’s a tall order, but I want what I want.

I get to have both when I grow any of the roses on this list. So can you.

Let me know in the comments if any of the roses in our roundup sound like exactly what you’re looking for. Or maybe I missed an especially tough rose that you love? If so, share it with us!

A truly chemical-free garden starts with picking the right plants, but there’s more to it than that.

You need to keep your roses healthy using every tool at your disposal. Learn how to do just that by reading these guides next:

In addition to covering large swaths of a garden bed, many gardeners use this member of the Asteraceae family in borders and in containers.

Even if its specific origin doesn’t intrigue you, you’ll appreciate this blooming annual’s ability to produce a profusion of cut flowers and to draw pollinators.

In this guide, we’ll discuss these and other advantages, and share tips for growing the healthiest Swan River daisies. Here’s what to expect:

What Are Swan River Daisies?

An import from the land down under, the Swan River daisy (Brachyscome iberidifolia) joins eucalyptus as one of our favorite botanical gifts from Australia.

Though this blooming beauty is available with lavender, pink, or white flowers, it’s the varieties with the striking blue daisy-petal flowers that really catch our attention, especially when massed ground cover-style.

Each bloom is about an inch wide, with the type of petals people like to pull off one at a time while muttering, “Loves me, loves me not.”

The centers are usually yellow but can also be black or brown circled with yellow.

The foliage of this plant – whose scientific name is sometimes spelled “Brachycome” without the “s” – is multi-branched and sports light green, finely divided leaves with long and narrow segments.

Swan River daisy’s one-inch flowers are profuse across the plant.

While generally classified as an annual, this drought-tolerant, fragrant jewel may function as an herbaceous perennial in Zones 8b to 11b, especially when planted in containers.

Bear in mind, however, that B. iberidifolia doesn’t flower well in very hot weather.

It grows to a mature height of 12 to 18 inches, with a spread of seven to 11 inches.

Even planted under a tree or on a bare patch of sandy soil, it will quickly form a tight carpet of feathery foliage followed by a flashy display of colorful blooms.

Keep reading for more information on growing these Aussie natives.

Propagation

You can propagate seeds started indoors six to eight weeks before your average last frost date. You can also sow directly in the garden after the last frost date.

Some gardeners like to sow successively every two to four weeks throughout the summer to extend the bloom period.

Another option is planting Swan River daisies rooted from cuttings taken from perennial plants in warm regions.

Prepare a shallow tray or individual cells ahead of time, filled with premoistened (but not wet), sterile, soilless potting mix to a depth of a couple of inches.

Before the daisy blooms in spring, take stem cuttings about four inches long.

Strip the leaves from the bottom half of each and dip the cut end of the stems in rooting hormone. Jab the cut ends into the soilless mix, spaced evenly, and place the tray or cells in a protected area at room temperature.

Use a spray bottle of water to keep the soil moist but not soggy, and the cuttings should produce roots within a couple of weeks. Give each a gentle tug.

If you meet resistance, roots have formed.

Once each plant has grown a few more leaves and achieved something closer to its former fullness, allow it to harden off for a week or so before transplanting into the garden or a container.

Transplanting

To plant out nursery starts or seedlings, dig holes the same size as the containers they are currently growing in, spaced five to six inches apart.

Gently remove the plant from the pot, taking care not to damage the roots, and set it in the ground. Backfill with soil before watering in well.

How to Grow

Low-maintenance B. iberidifolia isn’t terribly picky about its soil, tolerating poor dirt but thriving in rich soil as long as the ground is well-drained.

In containers, they’ll grow in an ordinary potting mix. See our guide for tips on choosing a suitable pot or planter for these flowers.

The Swan River daisy appreciates full sun but it can cope with partial shade, so feel free to grow it in an area that gets morning sun and afternoon shade if you wish.

Once these spreading plants are established, you won’t have much to do in the way of maintenance.

If you choose to grow this blue beauty in a container, you’ll want to feed it weekly with a fertilizer that’s high in phosphorus, such as 5-10-5 (NPK) to aid blooming.

Fertilize plants growing in the ground at the beginning of the growing season.

That may be enough to ensure beautiful blooms all season, or you may opt to continue fertilizing once monthly after that. This is one of those times when you should experiment and see what works for you.

Provide the plants with about an inch of supplemental water only if their soil is dry a couple of inches from the surface. They are more susceptible to overwatering than underwatering.

If you want to get your gardening energy out, spend it on prolonging the bloom period, not watering constantly.

Growing Tips

• Plant in a full sun location.
• Be careful not to overwater.
• Fertilize in-ground plantings monthly with 5-10-5 NPK fertilizer, or feed container-grown plants once a week.

Pruning and Maintenance

You’ll want to deadhead the spent flowers to promote continued blooming.

With this tactic, you may be able to encourage several bouts of blooming, starting in spring and continuing through late summer, or maybe into early autumn.

You can save seeds at the end of the season to share and sow next year.

When the flowers have faded and the petals have fallen to reveal mature, dry seeds in the centers, collect them and store them in a paper envelope or airtight container in a cool, dry place until sowing time.

More gardeners could be taking advantage of this easy-care ground cover that pollinators and floral arrangers are drawn to, and you can easily aid the cause.

This plant isn’t plagued by pests to any great degree, but you will want to keep an eye out for snails and slugs.

Powdery mildew may also appear, but it’s usually preventable if you plant your daisies in full sun. Learn more about detecting, treating, and preventing powdery mildew in our guide.

Also, watch out for root rot caused by overwatering – via the gardener, rain storms, or poorly draining soil.

Be careful to let the soil dry out before watering, and eradicate and destroy any plants affected by root rot, as fungal pathogens that may be present can quickly spread to healthy plants.

Best Uses

Try B. iberidifolia as a ground cover, a border plant, or in containers. If your pollinator garden can handle a spreading variety, a mass planting of Swan River daisies will attract bees and butterflies.

And don’t forget, if you long for a source of cut flowers, this species is beautiful in a vase and prolific enough to pick large bouquets.

You will be thrilled by this versatile, attractive, and fragrant flower that’s unquestionably a worthy addition to your landscape.

When it comes to free time, there aren’t many better ways to spend it than relaxing outdoors in a beautifully designed home landscape or ornamental garden.

If your own space isn’t quite there yet and you want to create or improve upon your home landscaping, you might need some gentle guidance.

If so, Ryan McEnaney’s “Field Guide to Outside Style” will be the perfect book to help you get started!

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Written in a friendly, lighthearted style, and packed with inspirational photos of beautiful home landscaping, this book is designed for beginning gardeners – and seasoned gardeners in need of a little stylistic assistance!

You can find “Field Guide to Outside Style” on Amazon now.

For a more in-depth look at this book, keep reading for our review. I’ll give you an overview of the guide’s content, so you’ll know what to expect from it, and at the end I’ll provide you with my own assessment of the book’s merits.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Field Guide to Outside Style: A Look Inside

First Impressions

Who are we kidding – of course we judge books by their covers!

Well, the cover of “Field Guide to Outside Style” invites you in with photos of cozy outdoor seating arrangements, lush landscaping, and attractive ornamental garden juxtapositions.

Field Guide to Outside Style, Available via Amazon

Currently available in either hardcover or in Kindle format on Amazon, this book is certainly designed to be read, but it will do double duty as a coffee table book, where its gorgeous photos depict attractive designs for home landscaping and ornamental gardens.

Printed by Cool Springs Press and released in 2022, the book is 208 pages long, and measures 8.25 x 0.85 x 10.25 inches, making it a convenient size to tote around as you work on your own landscape designs.

The pages of the book are glossy and are filled with both full-page and some double page photos including lots of original photos by photographer Tracy Walsh, illustrated landscape designs, and a chart with recommended plants.

Flipping through this book made me curious as to what insights the author would bring to the images.

But before we get to those insights, let’s meet the author himself.

Who Is Ryan McEnaney?

Ryan McEnaney’s bio describes him as a “plantsman, designer, and communicator for all things green and gardening.”

As a gardening writer and avid gardening book reader, this is certainly a bio that piques my interest! In fact, by the end of the book, I started to feel like Ryan was one of my BFFs – not surprisingly, since this guide is written in such a warm and friendly style.

This author’s style is so friendly, in fact, that it seems wrong to go with the usual convention and refer to the author by his last name here. After reading his book, I feel like I’m on a first name basis with him, so I’ll just go with it and call him by his first name, Ryan!

Ryan comes from a long line of nursery folk, and he is a family member and owner at Bailey Nurseries, a vast grower of shrubs and trees that has been around since the early 1900s and is known for its lines of hydrangeas and shrub roses.

On the communication side of his work, Ryan has been quoted by or featured in publications such as Better Homes & Gardens, HGTV Magazine, Martha Stewart Living, Real Simple, and The Wall Street Journal.

He has also appeared on TV through his gardening communication work, and travels widely to help educate home gardeners.

Hailing from the North Central region of the US where he lives with his husband and two dogs, Ryan makes sure to provide insights for cold-zone gardeners in his book – and to longingly show a bit of envy towards gardeners in more tropical locations!

After reading his book, I’d guess that Ryan McEnaney is a convivial sort who enjoys entertaining friends and family, and who’d go out of his way to help a stranger solve a landscaping problem.

That certainly seems to be what he’s trying to do in “Field Guide to Outside Style.” Though rather than solving individual ornamental garden problems, he’s helping to get us all started off on the right foot – and doing so in an entertaining manner!

Section By Section

This book includes an introduction followed by five chapters, an index, a page of recommendations for further reading, and an author bio page.

We’re going to dig into each chapter of the book. But first, let’s consider the author’s introduction.

Introduction

Right off the bat, Ryan tells us he grew up in the nursery business, but he is not a horticulturalist. He clearly doesn’t want us to be intimidated as we embark on our outdoor design projects together.

In the introduction, he establishes a lighthearted and down to earth tone, telling us that in his book we’ll be going on dates, having cocktails, and talking about fashion – things you might do with a pal!

And after setting the tone, he gives us some gardening motivation.

Ryan reminds us that while landscaping can certainly beautify our lives in the present, it also has the long-reaching ability to continue to do so throughout time, for years into the future.

Shrubs and trees planted today will be able to offer shade, beauty, and a sense of place to our descendants.

Beginning with this thought seems like an excellent place to embark on a home landscaping design project!

Polka Dots or Stripes

The title of chapter one, “Polka Dots or Stripes,” tells you where we’re going with this chapter – straight into a conversation about fashion, complete with references to skinny jeans, and yes, polka dots and stripes!

Since this is a book about outdoor style, Ryan McEnaney asks the reader to think about how our clothing preferences influence our appreciation of style in terms of color, texture, seasonality, and pattern.

After this surprising dive into fashion, the author asks us to consider something closer to our target of outdoor style – that is, furniture.

In discussing furniture in terms of function, personality, and harmony, the author invites the reader to start understanding one’s own sense of style as translated into landscaping and gardening terms.

Next, Ryan has us consider our reactions to architecture in terms of scale and views. He also discusses how architecture allows us to experience moments of time such as sunrise, or enjoying a cup of coffee on a quiet morning.

This chapter is intended to get us thinking about our landscaping style preferences, laying a foundation for what’s to come.

Date Night with Your Space

While fashion was the focus of the previous chapter, chapter two, “Date Night with Your Space,” expands on some of the topics touched on previously, exploring them in more detail.

This chapter is educative, but these lessons are couched within an invitation to various meal- or drink-based “dates.”

Our goal in this chapter is to assess our current situation so that we know what we’re working with as our landscaping projects take shape.

We learn more about what to consider when designing a home landscape in terms of color, size, plant combinations, accessories like containers, and hardscaping.

Ryan also walks us through some practicalities – things like soil type, USDA Hardiness Zones, elevation, precipitation, sun exposure, and even (the dreaded) budget.

Guardrails

Speaking of budget, in chapter three, “Guardrails,” Ryan helps us to define the scope of our landscaping project – and budget is certainly one of the defining features.

Why are we working on this home landscaping project anyway? Is it for beauty? To create a backdrop for outdoor meals? For the benefit of pollinators? Or all of the above?

In this chapter, Ryan also encourages us to think about how much work and money we’re willing to put into our ornamental garden project both now and in the future, how our outdoor space will change throughout the seasons, and how it will play a part in our lifestyle.

Again, to a certain degree, this chapter builds on the previous chapters so the project can continue taking shape in the mind of the reader.

Designing Your Space

After getting an idea about our own style sense in chapter one, assessing our current landscaping situations in chapter two, and defining the boundaries of our ornamental garden projects in chapter three, in chapter four, “Designing Your Space,” we encounter three different style personas to further guide us in our outdoor style choices.

This chapter is where the “field guide” part of the book comes in – in chapter four, Ryan introduces three different outdoor styles, embodied in different personas with the names Tommy, Kelly, and Martha, and shows us how to recognize them.

The three different landscaping style personas discussed here are naturalist, minimalist, and classic. For a better idea of that last one, picture the landscaping flair of lifestyle mogul Martha Stewart.

Ryan explains that these personas don’t just have different styles, they represent different approaches to gardening.

For instance, some may avoid using soil amendments, while others may readily adopt them in order to grow the desired ornamental plant species.

Ryan discusses the approach of these three landscaping design personas when it comes to color, texture, seasonality, function, and shape, breaking down fashion, form, and function for readers according to each of the different personas.

Next, Ryan provides us with examples of landscaping designs to illustrate each style, with a small, medium, and large site design for each persona.

These designs are plan views – that’s to say, illustrations that take a viewpoint that looks straight down at the site from above.

Readers are also treated to three case study illustrations, one for each design persona.

These case study illustrations show a three-phase process: before, during, and after the landscaping transformation, and they are accompanied by write-ups that explain the goal of each project, key elements, design strategy, and final implications.

Recipe Cards

By this point in “Field Guide to Outside Style,” the reader will be well-versed in their own outdoor style, and will have read about and viewed many ornamental gardening examples to draw on for guidance and inspiration.

In the fifth and final chapter, “Recipe Cards,” Ryan provides a selection of plant palettes for us to choose from as we compose our garden designs.

The author provides eight different “recipe cards” or plant palettes per landscaping style persona.

That’s to say, for each persona there are two different plant groupings for each of four different climates: cold climate, temperate, subtropical, and arid or high elevation climates.

For instance, readers who feel most akin to the Martha landscaping persona will discover palettes for gardens with full sun and well-drained soil in cold climates, cottage style gardens in temperate climates, container gardens in subtropical climates, and gardens with rocky soil in arid climates, among other combinations.

Gardeners will likely see many familiar plants among these groupings, such as hydrangeas, anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), bee balm (Monarda spp.), and black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta).

However, these “recipes” might also give you the chance to discover new cultivars of familiar plants, or species you have never encountered before, such as chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus), Indian paintbrush (Castilleja spp.), or the ornamental grass known as zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis).

At the end of the “Recipe Card” chapter, there is a chart listing even more plant choices likely to please the three different landscaping style personas.

Information for these garden options includes plant category (shrub, tree, or perennial), climate range, and the plant’s noteworthy characteristics.

Final Thoughts

So far I’ve given you a glimpse of the content held within “Field Guide to Outside Style” – now it’s time to reflect and give you my critique of this landscaping design book.

As I read through this volume and considered how the information held within it was arranged, I noticed that this is not a step-by-step, “how-to” garden design book. Gardeners won’t be able to quickly scan the written material and find the steps they need to follow.

Instead, the first three chapters build one on the other, revisiting some of the same topics (such as the use of color) but in increasing depth as the chapters progress. The author seems to be gradually building a foundation for readers to expand upon as they travel through the book.

Some gardeners may prefer a crystal clear organizational system – the written equivalent of a square foot garden raised bed!

However, those who are not looking for that type of landscaping guidance may not notice or be bothered by the more subtle, layered organization that lies in this book.

The next thing I’d like to point out is that the title of this book may be slightly misleading.

If you are a fan of field guides, such as the National Audubon Society’s “Birds of North America,” you may be disappointed once you dig into the pages of this book – with the exception of the style personas, it’s not really arranged like a traditional field guide.

One point of criticism I have is that this book doesn’t include USDA Hardiness Zones for the plants recommended in the “Recipe Cards” chapter. This information would have certainly been quite valuable to readers using this guide to create a landscape design.

Finally, let me say that anyone trying to avoid references to alcohol will want to steer clear of this volume.

As a former wine aficionado and current teetotaler, I was a bit surprised by the author’s repeated invitations (there are several!) to pour oneself a drink while tackling a section of the book.

I thought it best to forewarn potential readers of these well-intentioned but potentially triggering enticements. On the other hand, some of you may enjoy these calls to the aperitif!

Aside from these minor criticisms (and again, most of these are only criticisms from a certain point of view), “Field Guide to Outside Style” contains lots of ideas on how to make a landscape design function within existing conditions.

As stated at the beginning of this article, Ryan’s book would be a great tool for those who are new to gardening but are interested in doing some landscaping projects around their homes.

And while this book is not intended for those who are already strongly skilled in landscape design, it would benefit experienced gardeners who missed out on the design part of their green thumb education.

Personally, I particularly appreciated Ryan’s explanation of the Fibonacci sequence, also known as the golden ratio, and I’ll carry his explanation with me throughout my own amateur landscape design career.

As mentioned earlier, this would be a fitting book for individuals who want guidance but don’t like straightforward “how-to” style lessons.

Reading “Field Guide to Outside Style” is more like hanging out with a friend who is sharing some good ideas with you than attending a formal class.

Also of particular interest, the landscape designs and case studies presented in this book will be invaluable tools for those working on creating outdoor landscaping of their own.

In the closing words of the book, the author tells us his goal was to help get us started with creating our own landscaping designs, and I think Ryan achieves that purpose. Once you read it, all you’ll have to do is grab your gardening journal and get to planning!

Ready to get busy developing your own personal outside style? You can also find this book in hardback or digital format – both versions may be purchased on Amazon.

Field Guide to Outside Style: Design and Plant Your Perfect Outdoor Space

Have you read “Field Guide to Outside Style”? What did you think? Do you have any other home landscaping design book favorites you’d like to tell us about? Let us know in the comments section below!

And if you’re ready to peruse more gardening books, we have additional options for you right here:

PLANT SALE TODAY! Come meet us and get some “GOOD” plants!

We will have our nursery booth set up at the Atmore Flea Market, from 8AM to 1PM.

ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

Some of the plants for sale include:

Jerusalem artichoke
Comfrey
Tobacco
Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young”
Goji berry
Longevity spinach
Coffee (Coffea arabica)
Chocolate mint Stevia Banana (Dwarf Cavendish)
Black walnut
Daisies
Elderberries
Surinam cherry

…and a few more rare tidbits

We will also have books, and would love to talk gardening when you stop by. Hope to see you there. -DTG

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WHEN I SPOKE to naturalist and nature writer Nancy Lawson recently about her adventures in wildscaping at her Maryland garden, there was one topic in particular I wanted to double back to and dig in deeper to: her tactics for fighting unwanted weeds and invasives as we loosen up parts of our landscapes with more native plants.

I wanted to learn more about how to give the desired plants the edge, including some of the native perennials that have proven to be Nancy’s allies in out-competing the undesirables.

Nancy Lawson is author of “The Humane Gardener” and more recently of “Wildscape.” In that book, she stresses that we’re not alone out there, and promotes animal-friendly planting and maintenance strategies. She helps us tune into everyone whose home it is through a mix of findings from scientific research and her own intimate moments of discovery spent making her own wildscape.

Read along as you listen to the June 12, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

weed-fighting natives, with nancy lawson

 

 

Margaret Roach: Thanks for coming back to talk to me again, Nancy. Much appreciated.

Nancy Lawson: Thanks for having me. It’s great, and this is one of my favorite topics too.

Margaret: You like weeds, huh?

Nancy: I like native weeds.

Margaret: O.K. Yeah, because I’ve just gotten past having a garden open day. And so it’s sort of the spring drill of getting the garden, whether you’re literally having visitors or not, but getting the garden open—mulched, and cleaned up and whatever, whatever. And now it’s time, and I bet a lot of people are in the same boat. It’s like it’s time to double back and fight some of the bigger fights that I know we all face in one spot or another in our gardens [laughter]. We all have something. But what are some of your challenges there at your place? You have a couple of acres, similar-sized place that I do, and you’ve been there a long time. What are some of your constant undesirable companions?

Nancy: Yeah. Well, the stiltgrass [MIcrostegium vimineum] is one of them, because it likes to come up. It can make itself at home in tiny little pockets at pretty much anywhere. But another one that I recently had a very successful little battle against was mugwort.

Margaret: Oh, yes.

Nancy: Yeah. We inherited mugwort with some heirloom asparagus that my husband’s grandfather had in his garden, and my mother-in-law gave us some, and I had a feeling it was going to come with mugwort, and it did, and we didn’t manage it. And so it became a 30-foot by 10-foot space of mugwort after a time [laughter].

Margaret: Yes, yes. And that’s an Artemisia, isn’t it [Artemisia vulgaris]? I think. Isn’t it?

Nancy: Yeah.

Margaret: Yeah, so it’s a perennial Artemisia, and it’s rhizomatous I guess, is that correct also?

Nancy: Yeah. So there’s these big orange-rooted mats when it really gets going. And I’ve had it in other places where there are already lots of plants, and in those places it’s very easy to just pull. But this was a place we had specifically dug out for asparagus, and not put much other things. And it was always just my last thing to get to because there was so much else to do. And whenever I would try, there were lots of ladybugs in there.

And then one year I noticed that there were walnut trees coming up in it, and there were black raspberries that actually really seemed to be competing with it. And so that gave me some encouragement. Those were my bright spots to start from. And I guess it was right before the pandemic when I started just taking it on for real. And I did a combination of smothering it with cardboard and wood chips and then also… But I don’t want to just do that because then stuff comes right back, you know?

So I also started planting other things that grew in a similar way, like Jerusalem artichoke, mountain mint [Pycnanthemum], these things that could really take over the ground in the shady part, the golden ragwort, the robin’s plantain [fleabane, Erigeron pulchellus], and these other things that would really either shade out germination of the mugwort seeds or compete directly with the roots.

Margaret: And so how did you kind of figure that out? Do you know what I mean? Did you just observe who was doing a good job elsewhere? Where do you get that kind of insight?

Nancy: So I started just looking at this sort of subject matter, I guess probably about 12 or 13 years ago when I had garlic mustard a lot in a certain area. And I left some plants out of golden ragwort [Packera aurea], and I was going to give them to friends. And then I came back the following spring. This was in the fall, I guess I had dug them up, and I found that they had rooted out of the pots and into the golden ragwort and saw they were competing with it.

And then I learned about plants like clearweed [above, as a groundcover at Nancy’s; detail at Margaret’s below], that actually there’s been research showing that they are… They can directly compete with garlic mustard chemically.

Margaret: That’s a great plant, Pilea pumila. It’s a great plant, and people think it’s a weed because it has that “weed” suffix in its common name, but it’s an important… For certain moths or butterflies, I believe it’s a host plant, and it’s a great plant.

Nancy: It’s beautiful.

Margaret: So it’s interesting to hear that it also has scientifically proven ability to help us with these types of problems.

Nancy: Yeah, it can go head-to-head. And so I guess seeing that sort of research makes you wonder, well, what other plants can do this?

Margaret: I see.

Nancy: And obviously the ragwort can do it, and then thinking about not just their chemical properties, but their growth habits. And one of the reasons that the ragwort does it, at least where I live, is that it’s also usually pretty evergreen. And so it’s competing probably not only chemically, but it also has this ability to leaf out before anything else, or already be leafed out, depending on where you live. And so it can shade out germination of the garlic mustard seed.

Margaret: Well, and that’s how a lot of our what are now considered invasive plants in many areas that came from other nations, that was one of their traditional sort of edges, why they became so successful when they came here, and similarly where our plants went to other places as plants have moved around the world, is that they frequently leaf out sooner than the local stuff [laughter].

Nancy: Yeah, exactly.

Margaret: And that’s a great… You’re right, that’s a great… So looking for those types of qualities, but not in an invasive obviously, looking for those kind of qualities that can help to stifle the unwanted. I see. So that’s what you were kind of doing.

Nancy: Yeah. Exactly.

Margaret: Because some of these weeds that you’ve mentioned, they have different tactics for succeeding as weeds. I mean, the stiltgrass, it’s a warm-season annual. It makes a lot of seeds per seedhead, a lot. They can reside in the soil for three to five years and stay viable. And there’s a lot of qualities that make it succeed and outsmart us.

Nancy: [Laughter.] Right, which you have to admire.

Margaret: Well, weeds, yes, they’re incredible. Garlic mustard has so many tactics. It’s allelopathic; it exudes a chemical into the area where it grows that deters other plants from getting a foothold. It’s got a great deep root. It comes up early. It’s a prodigious sower of seeds. These are these tactics, and so how do we one better them? Right? Is that what you’re looking for, plants that are even “smarter”?

Nancy: Yeah, or at least they can hold their own so that if you clear an area, and then you replant right away, you can at least get a leg up that way. So a lot of them, it won’t actually outcompete by themselves, but maybe together with other ones, they’ll hold the ground from further encroachment, and so…

Margaret: Right. And you’re still weeding. It’s not that you’re not pulling out garlic mustard, for instance, or in some cases, like you said, using a cover like cardboard or something to stifle things. It’s not that you’re not doing that, it’s that you’re not only relying on that.

Nancy: Exactly. And the golden ragwort is pretty unique in that. I did still weed just the first year or two, and then I didn’t have to. It just pretty much does this wonderful takeover. But yeah, some of the other ones, it takes longer to keep weeding out, but it’s less and less each year, and that’s so rewarding.

Margaret: Right, and these are in areas… So describe golden ragwort to us as a plant. What does it look like? What does it do? What’s its… [Packera aurea, above, from Wikimedia; photo by Derek Ramsey.]

Nancy: Packera aurea, and I think obovata also up where you are is native, has roundish leaves that grow densely together. The plants root underground really quickly, but then they also spread by seed. And so it’s a beautiful ground cover all season and often all year. And I love it because the birds love to forage in there, too, and the rabbits make nests in there. And there’s a specialist bee that goes to the flower, which is maybe about a foot tall, and bright yellow, and just lights up the whole place in spring.

And it’s really pretty with plants like phloxes and purple… What is it? Phlox subulata and stolonifera, and the woodland Phlox divaricata. What I started doing with it, too, is planting it under trees. I’ll start there under the redbuds, under the chokeberries. When I do tree cages, when I plant new trees now, I put a lot of groundcovers like that. Or sometimes I’ll even put bigger plants like Rudbeckia in there with the tree cage, as a way to green mulch it instead of mulching it.

Margaret: So right from the start, when you’ve disturbed… In order to plant a tree, you’ve disturbed the soil, you are right away planting some groundcover to be with that new tree.

Nancy: Yes.

Margaret: Yeah. So not letting that… Because what does a weed love more than anything? It loves open ground, disturbance. Right? So you’re trying to get ahead of it. Do you have other perennials in the way that the Packera, the golden ragwort, do you have others that you have found have served this kind of role particularly?

Nancy: Yeah. Well, the sedges [Carex], some of the sedges, they don’t grow quite as vigorously, but pretty vigorously, like the blue sedges and the Appalachian sedge. And then I like things like tufted hair grass [Deschampsia cespitosa], which is evergreen, and that really holds the ground against anything. I don’t know if that’s the reason, or if there are other reasons.

Margaret: Well, leaving any blank space at ground level, obviously… If we go and we pull out all our garlic mustard, and we leave a blank canvas [laughter], what’s going to happen? Who knows what’s coming next? More garlic mustard and then who knows what else? So we have to be there. It’s the one-two punch. Right? We have to be there with it. Right, right.

Nancy: Right. So depending on where you are, some of them are such great host plants and pollinator plants, too, like golden Alexander for the black swallowtail and-

Margaret: The Zizia. Is that Zizia?

Nancy: Yeah. Once that gets going, wild basil, wild ginger of course and the shade.

Margaret: I was just going to say the Asarum canadense. I think the wild ginger is one of the great native groundcovers. And it’s, for me, again, even in a very cold zone, and it’s not evergreen, like the European version of Asarum is a more evergreen leaf, but it’s thick, dense, at ground level, controllable. It’s not like it goes crazy and takes over your whole place, but it really makes a great groundcover that not a lot of stuff gets into. So if you have, as you say, under trees or a shrub border or something where you want the ground… You don’t want to have to be weeding 50 times a year in that area. You want a dense groundcover to close the ground and also have some beneficial elements to it, features to it. Yeah. That’s a great one, I think.

Nancy: Yeah. And I remember reading this tip from Barry Glick at Sunshine Farm in West Virginia, about planting wild ginger under pawpaw trees, because they have the same or similar pollinators, flies.

Margaret: Oh, interesting [laughter].

Nancy: So I went down to transplant some under the pawpaws this year because I’ve been meaning to do it for years. And I put the pawpaws as bare roots many years ago, far down in the field, just right into the turfgrass. And over the years there was garlic mustard under there and stiltgrass. And this year when I went to put the ginger, I saw that it’s now almost all violets [above, at Nancy’s]. So that’s another really nice recruitable one you don’t even have to plant. And I guess because the pawpaws shaded out the turf entirely and the other stuff, it’s just all violets now under them.

Margaret: And those are such… And I think a lot of people still even think of them as weeds. And they’re such helpers, and they’re such supporters of all the fritillary butterflies I think use them as host plants. And they’re so charming and tough, but it’s like we have to recondition the way we look. But especially in these, it’s going to be a little looser, a lot looser. But it’s also going to be functioning and supporting to beneficial insects and other animals. And it’s going to hopefully, like we’re talking about, keep out some of the really unwanted things like that mugwort, like that stiltgrass, like the really unmanageable ones that are nonnative and big trouble.

Nancy: Right.

Margaret: So any other perennials that you’ve found that are doing a good job at sort of… Again, I shouldn’t say out-competing, but helping take up space, and keeping things, that have the strength [laughter] to resist some of the other…

Nancy: Well, I love elephant’s foot. Do you have that?

Margaret: I don’t think I know what that common name-

Nancy: Elephantopus carolinianus.

Margaret: No.

Nancy: And there’s another one, too, related, and well that is a really dense groundcover, too, not all year, but all season. And so it really holds the ground, and it has these little small purple flowers that buckeyes and other little butterflies love in the late season. And that’s good for shade or part shade. I have it even in a fair amount of sun, part sun, too.

And then lyreleaf sage [above, at Nancy’s] is so pretty, and it just goes anywhere. You can’t even walk on it. It won’t flower as tall, but…

Margaret: I don’t think I know that common name, either.

Nancy: That’s Salvia lyrata and-

Margaret: Lyrata, O.K.

Nancy: It has the cutest little leaves. And actually that’s kind of evergreen. It’s sort of ever-purple. It kind of disappears. You can’t really see it very well, but it can keep the leaves all year sometimes.

White wood aster, that tends to get browsed in certain spots, but if it’s protected with other plants around it-

Margaret: Well, the asters, all of them here get browsed, and even the woodchucks and the rabbits love them, for instance, because I don’t have deer; I have a fence. But what I think of it, when I see that happening, instead of getting hysterical, I just think it’s the Chelsea chop. Do you know what I mean?

Nancy: [Laughter.] Right.

Margaret: It’s that pruning technique. It’s being cut back in spring when it’s partway grown. So it’s going to delay flowering a little bit and make it flower slightly shorter size. But the thing I am glad you mentioned as the white wood aster, and really to me, even other native asters. Early in my garden career, I used to pull them out of areas. They would sew in, and I would pull them out because they seemed weedy. I mean, that was my mindset 30-plus years ago. And now I’m thankful that they’re doing that, like the violets. And I think it’s an important… You’re just making me think it’s an important mind shift that we have to do is to make friends with and-

Nancy: Yes.

Margaret: …and appreciate. Yeah.

Nancy: That’s totally it.

Margaret: What about northern sea oats [above at Nancy’s with ostrich fern, another native choice]? Have you found that to be a good helper or what’s…

Nancy: I love that. Yeah.

Margaret: Chasmanthium latifolium, the northern sea oats grass.

Nancy: Yeah. And actually, I don’t know about where you are, but here people think oftentimes, “Oh, it’s too aggressive.” But that is something that if you’ve got it with a lot of other natives, and it grows alongside certain ones, or it even protects them, I’ve found. We’ll see what happens over the years. But I’ve had it for quite a while now, and I have some perennials mixed in that do get browsed now, like wild bergamot and even Echinacea and stuff, and they are doing well among the sea oats.

The sea oats also really help with the Japanese stiltgrass. Now I think that some people, it’s very hard to tell the difference until you get to know them when they first come up. The sea oats and the stiltgrass can look pretty similar [laughter].

You just have to do it for a little bit and then you get an eye for it. But that in combination with a native grass, nimblewill [Muhlenbergia schreberi], which I love. It’s just very thin-leaved and a shade grass, and it’s very maligned, too, online by mainstream sources and lawn experts and stuff. But it’s a really good one for holding the ground also against stiltgrass. And so I love those plants. And sea oats is a host plant, too, for some butterflies and moths, yeah.

Margaret: And it does have the most incredible seedheads of anything I’ve ever seen [above, at Margaret’s]. They look like a flattened pine cone or something. It’s like these just incredible… And they kind of take on a coppery color or something in the fall. It really is quite a beautifully constructed architectural little creature.

Nancy: Yeah [laughter]. It really is. And in the wind it makes it pretty sound.

Margaret: Yes. I think when we did a recent “New York Times” story about your “Wildscape” book and so forth together, and I think you mentioned something, blue mistflower. Is that… And you also mentioned false nettles. Tell me about those two. Have those been ones that have been helping you with this battle?

Nancy: So yeah, blue mistflower actually came up in a sneezeweed plant that I bought at a local native nursery here. And so I never intentionally bought it, although I would have eventually, I’m sure. But it looks kind of like hardy ageratum. It’s really beautiful purple fuzzy flowers. And it tends to not be browsed by deer. I think it has some alkaloids in it that they don’t find tasty. So it seeded here from that original pot, and then it eventually went out into the field where the stiltgrass is, and it’s been making ever widening circles in the stiltgrass. It doesn’t seem to mind growing among it at all.

Margaret: Interesting.

Nancy: Yeah. So I just go and I pull around it, and I do that with the false nettle, too. It does the same thing. And every year if I just pull some more around it, then those things can reseed into the bare spots that I make and keep on spreading.

Margaret: So the false nettle is Boehmeria, I think. And I think the blue mistflower is Conoclinium [above, with Rudbeckia, at Nancy’s].

Nancy: Yes, C. coelestinum. Yes.

Margaret: Coelestinum, yeah. I always had trouble with that one because it has so many vowels in [laughter]. I could never say both the genus and the species have so many…

So if this sounds appealing to people, to adjust how they see some plants like the violets and the asters and leave some of them. And again, letting, or either adding or letting some plants like the false nettles and the blue mistflower and so forth, get going in a patch of something that’s troublesome. And then weeding out the troublesome stuff around it and letting the good thing take more territory.

Besides your book, besides “Wildscape,” are there other places to do homework about this or to learn more about this? Did you use field guides or any other tips in the last couple months? Yeah.

Nancy: So while I was exploring these things, I think Larry Weaner came out with his book “Garden Revolution” [affiliate link] a few years ago, and he talks about this in that book somewhat. And then “Planting in a Post-Wild World,” of course, talks about using natives to hold the ground and such. And so-

Margaret: Thomas Rainer and Claudia West’s book, O.K. Good suggestions. Thank you.

Nancy: And I think one of the things over the years that I’ve just learned is that people get really excited by this topic. I wrote something on my site in like 2016 or something, and the amount of comments on there was incredible compared to other things that I’ve written.

And it’s because people either want to know what’s going to outcompete something or they want to share their experiences. And so I’ve just learned a lot from conversation with other people, too. And I started experimenting with what they told me and including their stuff in my handouts and such. And shrubs and trees are really important to this too, helping to shade things out or the suckering shrubs, because we have a problem with some of the invasive suckering shrubs and so-

Margaret: We’ll have to talk about this again again,because we’ve run out of time. But I so appreciate, Nancy Lawson, your taking time today to join me to go a little deeper into this topic. [Below, a seating area in Nancy’s wildscape.]

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MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the June 12, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

The Blood Lily or African Blood Lily is part of the Scadoxus multiflorus, formerly Haemanthus multiflorus genus, a group of perennial bulbous plants that number about sixty.

Blood Lilies, in particular, may be further divided into two classifications – the evergreen kind or the deciduous variety. Blood lily plants produce red berries in the fall.  

This bulbous perennial is native to tropical or subtropical regions of South Africa (Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, Swaziland), most sub-Saharan Africa (Senegal to Somalia), and Arabian Peninsula (Oman, Saudi Arabia, Yemen). 

Fireball Lily: A Spectacular Display

This unique plant produces large, spherical flower heads that look like red fireworks or fireballs. Made up of red, star-shaped florets with yellow-tipped stamens, these flowers explode from the landscape and attract bees, butterflies, and birds. 

Evergreen Blood Lilies are known for having relatively sizable, succulent leaves and the hardy aspect of thriving all year long. In addition to blood lily, other common names are fireball lily, powderpuff lily, the Katherine-wheel, the Oxtongue Lily, and football lily.  

The Deciduous Blood Lilies require a period of rest if the owner wishes to see them bloom the next season.

The most efficient way to raise the humidity around your tropical plants is with a cool-mist room humidifier.

Our experts predict weather patterns as best they can to set suitable shipping windows for each growing zone. 

This South African genus and its known species can be found in Arabia, Africa, Swaziland, Lesotho, Namibia, and Botswana.

On the other hand, the blood lily Scadoxus puniceus species (paintbrush lily) are native mostly to the Cape Town or Eastern Cape provinces in South Africa.

African Blood Lily: A Unique Plant Species

The term “Haemanthus” means blood flower in botanical books. The African Blood Lily, or the Haemanthus albiflos of the evergreen variety, is characterized by broad, colorful foliage shaped like a tongue and large, egg-shaped bulbs.

Blood Lily Flower: A Fiery Fireball

The globe-shaped flower heads seem to hover in mid-air, and the leaves that appear later add texture to a planting. I

Don’t let the fearsome name fool you. The globe-shaped flower of a Blood Lily can either come in white or in a variety of red, growing in clusters and appears to have small, flat heads which resemble a tiny paintbrush.

The small bunches are surrounded by either white or dark green bracts, which make them attractive house plants.

The flower’s highlight may very well be its bright yellow anthers that complement the red/white appearance well, giving the look of a fiery fireball!

Fireball Flower: A Striking Appearance

While the fireball lily does not exhibit a notable fragrance, its impressive look more than makes up for the lack of scent.

The addition of evergreen leaves makes it last all year long, but those without this aspect lose their leaves at the end of the blooming season.

The African blood lily shows off its breathtaking color and bright spathes approximately 3 to 4 months of the year.

African Blood Lily Care: Caring for Scadoxus Multiflorus

Optimal Lighting and Temperature for Blood Lily

A bright and cheery environment is most optimal for a Blood Lily. Put them in a room with lots of light but beware of putting them in contact with full sun during the summer seasons.

Though the Haemanthus Albiflios can be safely put in the protective shade, its leaves will not be as green and can come off as pale-looking.

Afternoon shade is especially beneficial to protect these plants from the effects of the hot afternoon sun.

Ideal Soil and Watering Conditions for Healthy Fire Lily Growth

Soil Loamy or sandy soil that is rich in nutrients is ideal for the blood lily. 

It quickly provides the plant with all the essential nutrients and ensures healthy growth.  

The African Blood Lily and its sister species, the Haemanthus katherinae love the summer temperature, so put them out in the upper 60° degrees Fahrenheit or higher if possible.

Understandably, these plants cannot tolerate and survive frost in winter-like conditions.

Blood Lilies are great as house plants in a conservatory. Other types of Haemanthus species should be potted and placed strategically in shaded windows as the blooming period comes around.

Great accent in a container and an exciting house plant. Also makes a unique addition to cut-flower bouquets. Both are deer and rodent resistant.

Haemanthus albiflos, in particular, can thrive under sunny conditions all year long and are hardy enough to grow outside in the summertime.

This plant is very easy to maintain and doesn’t require much attention.

Just make sure not to put it in extremely hot temperatures or in direct contact with the summer sun, and your Blood Lily should be fine.

An environment that provides partial shade will be perfect.

Fireball Lily Flower Maintenance and Blooming Cycle

It blooms just like any house plant in the late summer or fall and seemingly lies dormant during the other times of the year.

After dormancy, adding fresh soil and watering more frequently will enable the blood lily to bloom again with vigor. 

Inspect the leaves every now and then, and remove the withered ones to keep them looking lovely.

Haemanthus coccineus, also known as powder puff lily, April fool, March flower, and King of Candia, also belongs to the scadoxus genus of the family Amaryllidaceae.

It has two leaves per bulb, and they love rocky slopes and shaded kloofs as habitat. This species needs light soil with good drainage, partial shade, and regular watering.

Put your Blood Lily in a pot with a good mixture of sand and rich potting soil. Since they are very hardy, regular repotting isn’t necessary unless in emergencies.

This mixture will allow the soil to stay moist while offering excellent drainage, which is important for a healthy plant.

Remember that these plants grow much better blooms if they are left in peace.

Water your Blood Lily sparingly at first as they become active and start to grow, gradually increasing the liquid intake as they grow in size and bloom.

Make sure to water consistently during this time; you may also feed them plant food once every two weeks.

In winter, only water when the soil and plant appear too dry; don’t water when the leaves wither and start to fall.

Paint Brush Lily Care: Fertilizing and Winter Storage Tips

A fertilizer high in phosphorus works well for these plants and supports blooming. When the blood lily begins to die off, stop fertilizing. Fertilize again once its dormant period is over.

NOTE: For winter storage, keep bulbs between 50° to 60° degrees Fahrenheit. Pack bulbs in a container with peat moss. In spring, plant bulbs outdoors in the ground or in pots when all danger of frost passes.

You may also like: Caring For The Bottle Brush Plant

Haemanthus Fire Ball Plant: Maintenance and Propagation

Don’t worry too much about your African Blood Lily flower – it has a very long lifespan as long as you don’t put them under direct sunlight and leave them out during winter.

The deciduous varieties are different, so they’ll need to rest before the next blooming season starts.

Beware of mealy bugs that can hide under the Blood Lily’s leaves and into the potted soil; remove them by dabbing a cotton ball with alcohol.

As for the well-drained soil, drench it with a systemic insecticide. Spider mites may also appear in cases of warm, dry environments, but misting and wiping the leaves should take of them.

Don’t be afraid of repotting your Starfire Lily if you see the roots crowding so much that they spill out over the pot.

This also means that now is the right time to try and propagate your Blood Lilies by dividing the roots and putting them in their own pot filled with sand and rich potting soil.

There’s another, less traditional way of multiplying your Starfire Lilies. Select a piece of succulent leaf, then place it in a plastic bag and put it on top of a warm window sill.

Observe, and in a few weeks, some tiny plants will appear near where you cut the leaves from. These plants may be delicately removed and prepared for their new home of potting soil and sand.

Fireball Plant Favorites

Haemanthus varieties such as the Haemanthus atharinae and the Haemanthus puniceus are among the favorite Blood Lilies in homes around the world.

It should be noted that they are deciduous and not evergreen, so they should be allowed to rest if owners wish to see them in bright blooms come next summer or fall season.

The leaves, which can grow up to a maximum of 14″ inches, bear a thick, red stem, from which a flower head with masses of paintbrush-like mini-flowers with lovely spathes come out.

The new Blood Lilies should be kept at a warm temperature of about 55° Fahrenheit, with maximum temperatures of 65° Fahrenheit during spring to stimulate flower growth.

At rest, the soil should only be watered if it’s bone dry. Offset bulbs and seeds may be planted in pots at an optimal temperature of 70° to 75° degrees Fahrenheit.

You may also plant them in small pots and move them to larger ones to accommodate growth.

If you are interested in growing and caring for a Fireball lily plant, buying them from plant nurseries or mail-order bulb companies to ensure the best quality is best.