Category: Home & Garden

Freezing rhubarb is a great way to preserve this tangy and versatile vegetable for future use. It’s a simple process that can help you enjoy the flavor even when it’s out of season.

I always loved my grandma’s rhubarb pies and crisps, and now that I freeze it, I am able to enjoy these nostalgic recipes whenever the cravings arise.

In this article, I lay out everything you need to know about how to freeze rhubarb, with or without blanching, so you can enjoy it anytime of the year that you wish.

You can use it in any recipe that calls for fresh, for example to make fillings for baking, jams, or dessert toppings.

Preparing Rhubarb For Freezing

For the best results, choose rhubarb that’s as fresh as possible. The stalks should be firm with vibrant color.

Right out of the garden is best, but you can buy it from the grocery store or farmer’s market as well.

Rinse it under cool water to remove any dirt or debris, gently scrubbing the stalks with a vegetable brush if needed.

Cut the leaves and the root ends off and discard them. You can keep the stalks whole if you’re short on time, or cut them into 1-2 inch pieces, which is the easiest size to reuse later on.

Should You Blanch Rhubarb Before Freezing?

You don’t need to blanch rhubarb before freezing it, but it does help to retain the color and texture better.

Blanching takes a little extra time, and whether you choose to do it or not depends on how you plan to use your frozen rhubarb.

For example, if you plan to cook it down to use it for making jam or dessert fillings, then blanching is not necessary.

How To Blanch Rhubarb To Freeze

To blanch your rhubarb before freezing, fill a large cooking pot with water and bring it to a rolling boil. While that’s heating, fill a large bowl with ice water.

Carefully drop the rhubarb pieces into the boiling water and flash-cook them for 1-2 minutes.

Then remove them with a slotted spoon and immediately transfer them into the ice water to stop the cooking process.

Related Post: How To Can Rhubarb At Home

Methods For Freezing Rhubarb

There are a few ways you can freeze rhubarb, and I’ll lay out the options for you below. The method you choose depends on your time, availability, and how you plan to use it later on.

Freezing Rhubarb Whole Or In Pieces

The ideal way to freeze rhubarb is in 1-2 inch pieces, which makes it very quick and convenient to cook with or use in your recipes.

However, if you are super short on time, you can leave the stalks whole and simply place them into a gallon-sized freezer bag.

Flash Freezing Rhubarb

Flash freezing is an optional step, but it’s very helpful in preventing your rhubarb pieces from sticking together in clumps.

To flash freeze simply spread the cut up pieces evenly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Place it in the freezer for about an hour, or until the pieces are firm to the touch, then fill your zipper baggies.

Can I Freeze Rhubarb Leaves As Well?

No, you cannot freeze rhubarb leaves. It’s a well-known fact that the leaves contain a poisonous substance, so you should never eat or freeze them. Always be sure to remove the leaves and throw them out, and only freeze the stalks.

Tools & Supplies Needed

You don’t need any special equipment, and you should have all you need already on hand in your kitchen. Gather everything together ahead of time to speed up the process.

How To Store Frozen Rhubarb

Storing frozen rhubarb is simple. After you have filled your zip top bags, just lay them flat and stack them on top of each other in the freezer.

If you don’t want to use baggies, you can put it in any type of freezer-safe airtight container that you prefer.

How Long Does Rhubarb Last In The Freezer?

As long as you store it properly, rhubarb lasts up to one year in the freezer. You may be able to extend its shelf life by using a food vacuum sealer.

FAQs

Below I’ve answered some of the most common questions about how to freeze rhubarb.

What is the best way to freeze fresh rhubarb?

The best way to freeze rhubarb is to wash it, cut it into 1-2 inch pieces, flash freeze it, and then store it in freezer bags.

Can you freeze whole stalks of rhubarb?

Yes, you can freeze whole stalks of rhubarb as long as you remove the leaves first. Although it is much easier to fit them into baggies if you cut the stalks up into smaller pieces.

Can you freeze fresh rhubarb raw?

Yes, you can freeze fresh rhubarb raw. Balancing is optional, but it can help to preserve the color and texture better.

Should you peel rhubarb before freezing?

There is no need to peel rhubarb before freezing. Simply wash it, remove and discard the leaves, and cut the stalks into pieces first.

Can I freeze rhubarb without cooking it?

Yes, you can freeze rhubarb without cooking it. Although taking a few extra minutes to blanch it will help to retain the texture and color better.

Should I cut rhubarb before freezing?

Whether you cut rhubarb before freezing it or not is up to you. Cutting it up first will make it more convenient to use later on, but you can certainly keep the stalks whole if you are strapped for time (always remove and toss out the leaves first though).

Should you wash rhubarb before freezing it?

You should always wash your rhubarb before freezing it to remove any soil or other debris. Usually giving it a quick rinse will do the trick, but you can use a veggie brush if there’s any caked on dirt.

Is frozen rhubarb as good as fresh?

Frozen rhubarb is just as good as fresh. You can use it in any recipe that calls for fresh without any problems.

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More About Food Preservation

Share your tips for freezing rhubarb in the comments section below.

Step By Step Instructions

Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a delightful ornamental shrub with large, showy flowers that thrives in hot, humid climates.

But they also make excellent container plants, so those of us in temperate areas can enjoy them too!

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Pollinators ranging from bees to hummingbirds are drawn to the large flowers that come in richly saturated shades of apricot, gold, mauve, peach, pink, purple, scarlet, and white – with more orange-based colors than their hardy cousin, the rose mallow (H. moscheutos).

Easily cultivated in pots and planters, they prefer to have their roots in close quarters, so containers don’t have to be huge.

They also respond well to annual pruning to maintain a well-behaved size and shape.

This makes the seasonal move inside and back outdoors convenient and manageable – no need for a forklift to move them into the orangery!

Steamy colors, evergreen foliage, and easy care… is your garden ready for some potted beauty? Then let’s delve into the ins and outs of how to grow tropical hibiscus in containers!

Here’s what’s ahead:

Tropical Hibiscus Primer

Tropical hibiscus is native to Asia and some islands of the South Pacific.

A frost-tender perennial evergreen also known as Chinese, fancy, or Hawaiian hibiscus, it’s a perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11, where the plants flower abundantly through the growing season.

A member of the mallow family, Malvaceae, H. rosa-sinensis produces large, luscious blooms measuring four to six inches in an array of thrilling colors, with over 10,000 known hybrids!

The large, funnel or trumpet-shaped flowers are edible and available in single or double forms that last only a day.

But the shrubs are so loaded with buds, it’s like they’re in perpetual bloom over the long flowering season, which starts in spring and lasts to late fall in frost-free regions.

These evergreens do best in temperatures ranging from 60 to 90°F and can grow from two to 30 feet tall. For container growth, dwarf or compact cultivars are the best option.

Container Selection

Hibiscus does well in any type of planter, including those made of materials such as ceramic, concrete, plastic, resin, terra cotta, or wood.

But if you need to move pots indoors or into a sheltered location to overwinter, lightweight materials like fiberglass, hypertufa, or resin makes good sense.

And you can always put heavier pots on a wheeled plant caddy to make moving them easier.

This round wooden caddy offers heavy-duty support for up to 65 pounds and is available at Wayfair.

Wood Caddy Plant Stand

If you prefer containers made of heavier materials, a simple pot lifter harness is invaluable.

It takes two people to use, but these offer a brilliant solution for moving large or heavy items – ours are used in the garden each spring and fall, and they’re aces for shifting boulders or hauling driftwood!

Shoulder Dolly Pot Lifter

The Shoulder Dolly pot lifter with an 800-pound capacity can be found on Amazon.

Choose a pot that is one or two sizes larger than the root ball.

For example, if your plant came in a #1 nursery pot, which holds close to one gallon of soil, transplant into a container that holds up to two or even three gallons of soil, but don’t go larger than that.

H. rosa-sinensis has wide, shallow roots. When planted in a container that’s too large, this species can’t absorb all of the available moisture, which can result in root rot.

For healthy plants, it’s best to repot every two or three years, increasing the pot size gradually.

Whatever material you choose, ensure your container has drainage holes to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged.

I like to add a two-inch layer of loose materials like broken pottery or pebbles over the drainage holes to ensure the roots don’t sit in wet soil.

Cultivars to Select

With hundreds of cultivars out there, there are plenty of options suitable for container growth. Here are a few suggestions to start out with:

Double Peach

All bets are off as ‘Double Peach’ doubles down on charm and petals, featuring sumptuous, ruffled flowers of peachy orange with deep green, shiny leaves.

Flowering all summer, ‘Double Peach’ has an upright habit and grows up to six feet tall with a spread of up to five feet.

‘Double Peach’

A striking specimen in containers and planters or massed in groups or rows as a barrier or screen, it’s hardy in Zones 9 to 10.

Nursery plants are available from Walmart.

Red Dragon

No slaying is required to enjoy the brilliant, fiery red blooms of Red Dragon (‘Mongon’)!

A profuse summer and fall bloomer, the double-petal, ruffled flowers add dramatic appeal to bushy, upright branches thick with glossy green leaves.

Growing six to eight feet tall with a spread of three to four feet, Red Dragon makes a beautiful addition to patio planters and containers throughout the garden.

Red Dragon

Prune lightly in spring to encourage branching, improve flowering, and keep the size and shape manageable. Hardy in Zones 10 to 11.

Nursery containers are available at Nature Hills.

Starlette

Roll out the red carpet and get your cameras ready for Starlette (‘14014’) – with a lead role in the Hollywood series, the gorgeous coral/fuchsia pink flowers steal the show!

Starlette

Bred for abundant flowers all summer, the multi-branched plants grow up to five feet tall with a spread of one to four feet – the perfect planter choice for courtyards, decks, patios, and poolside gardens. It’s hardy in Zones 10 to 11.

Containers of Starlette are available at Nature Hills Nursery.

Tree

For a striking accent, these tropical hibiscus trees have been sculpted into a standard topiary form that’s a natural in containers, planters, and urns.

Loaded with flower buds through summer and fall, the single-petal flowers in red or pink add bright, bold colors that look terrific as a potted specimen or clustered into larger groupings.

Red Tropical Hibiscus Tree

The trees reach a mature height of six to eight feet with a two- to three-foot spread. Hardy in Zones 9 to 11.

Nursery trees measuring three to four feet are available at Fast Growing Trees in red and pink.

Yellow Bird

Your fancy will take flight on the wings of ‘Yellow Bird,’ a charming dwarf variety featuring extra large, buttercup yellow flowers with an eye-popping magenta heart.

These compact plants grow two to three feet tall, spread up to two feet, and feature flowers measuring up to eight inches across!

An ideal container plant as an anchor for mixed plantings or roosting alone as an accent or specimen, it’s hardy in Zones 9 to 10.

Soil and Growing Needs

Tropical hibiscus does best in a full to partial sun location and needs well-draining, slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8.

Plant out in spring after overnight temperatures stay above 55°F.

Fill pots with a friable, well-draining soil blend that’s been amended with one or two parts compost or well-aged manure to two or three parts soil. (A “part” is just a measurement unit for the ingredients – I use a shovelful to measure out one part.)

Mix in one part moisture-retentive materials such as coconut coir, peat moss, perlite, or vermiculite.

Add in one part grit to improve drainage if needed, using landscape sand, pea gravel, or stone chips.

Water lightly and mix the soil at the same time for a moist planting medium.

Finish off the soil blend by mixing in two to three tablespoons of bone meal for fast, healthy root growth.

Create a planting hole for the root ball and set the plant in place with the crown at soil level or just above it.

Firm in place and water slowly but thoroughly until water comes from the drainage hole.

Although these plants are sun-lovers, it’s helpful to harden off newly planted shrubs in a partially shady spot for 10 to 14 days before moving them into full sun.

Once hardened off, place containers in a site that receives full sunlight and provide afternoon shade in hot climates as needed – typically in locales where temperatures climb above 90°F. 

To deal with pests like aphids and diseases like gray mold, our guide on how to grow and care for tropical hibiscus has details and solutions.

Fertilizing and Watering

Feed on a monthly basis with a water-soluble fertilizer or apply slow-release, granular pellets in early spring and again in midsummer.

Hibiscus does best with a feed that features high levels of potassium, medium amounts of nitrogen, and low levels of phosphorus – look for NPK formulas with a low middle number (P), and the last number (K) slightly higher than the first (N).

Espoma Palm-Tone

Try this 4-1-5 NPK fertilizer from Espoma that’s designed for hibiscus and palms – it’s available in four-pound bags from Walmart.

During the growing season, water regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not wet. Check your pots every couple of days – daily in hot weather – and water when the top inch of soil dries out.

The addition of a layer of summer mulch can be helpful to keep roots cool and retain moisture.

Use up to four inches of materials such as bark mulch, sawdust from untreated lumber, straw, or small pebbles to mulch over the root zone.

Outdoor Winter Care

H. rosa-sinensis thrives in hot, humid climates with plenty of sun and a temperature range of 60 to 90°F, or in Zones 9 to 11.

In the cool end of that range, in Zone 9, you can move potted plants into a protected location like a shed or garage should a cold snap threaten – they can’t tolerate temperatures below 45°F.

If moving them isn’t an option, add a thick, four-inch layer of mulch using materials such as compost, leaf mold, or straw to help protect surface roots.

Wrap the plant with a couple of layers of frost blanket material to protect leaves and stems from freezing temperatures.

And you can shield deeper roots by insulating the container with an old blanket, bubble wrap, or pine boughs.

Withhold fertilizers from outdoor plants over the winter and reduce watering where rainfall is ample. In drier regions, maintain slightly moist soil.

In areas with heavy winter rainfall, remove catchment saucers from under containers to avoid subjecting the roots to standing water.

If needed, lift containers onto bricks or pot toes to ensure water doesn’t puddle under the pots.

Indoor Winter Care

A couple weeks before nighttime temperatures drop down to 60°F, move containers into a shady spot for two weeks to prepare them for the move indoors.

Moving plants indoors usually results in some leaf drop or yellowing leaves, but they recover quickly and bounce back in a few weeks.

But before bringing your pots indoors, prune lightly if needed and check for pests.

If pests are found, spray the foliage with a strong stream of water from the hose or spray with a gentle homemade insecticide.

To make your own insecticidal soap, fill a spray bottle with lukewarm water mixed with a few drops of mild dish soap and a few drops of vegetable oil.

Shake well then spritz the infested leaves, ensuring you spray the undersides.

After the foliage dries, place your container in a warm spot with bright, direct sunlight and away from drafts.

For indoor watering, fertilizing, and care details, refer to our guide on how to overwinter tropical hibiscus indoors.

After Winter

In spring, once nighttime temperatures stay above 55°F, move containers back outdoors.

Place them in a lightly shaded spot for 10 days to two weeks to harden them off from their indoor climate.

Prune lightly, using clean, sharp garden shears to reduce the overall size by up to one-third, cutting stems on an angle just above a leaf node. At the same time, remove any crossed, dead, or damaged branches.

After hardening off, move to their summer location and resume a regular feeding and watering routine.

Nonstop Showy Displays

Potted frost-tender hibiscuses thrive with a little attention, delivering a long season of lush foliage and showy tropical flowers.

For a nonstop container display, keep the soil lightly moist, fertilize regularly, and provide shade from hot afternoon sun – then reap the rewards of well-tended plants!

And if you’re outside of their hardiness range, be sure to bring them indoors to overwinter.

Do you folks have a favorite variety of potted tropical hibiscus? Tell us about it in the comments section below.

And for more information about growing other types of hibiscus, check out these articles next:

I met my first “chaste tree” at a Master Gardener class over a decade ago.

It’s proper name is Vitex agnus-castus, and there was a nice specimen growing in the demonstration gardens at the Marion County Florida Agricultural Extension Offices where we took our classes.

As part of our Master Gardener training, we took cuttings from this small tree and propagated them. The resulting rooted cuttings then went into our own gardens. I accidentally killed mine by moving it when it wasn’t fully rooted, but I liked the tree so much I went and bought another one from Taylor Gardens Nursery, back when they were still open.

After the day we visited that tree at the extension and started cuttings, I did more research on the species, discovering that it’s been used as a hormone balancer for women going through menopause, as well as a pleasant herbal tea. It’s also reported to lower libido, so if you’re considering taking Holy Orders, you might want to plant one of these. Chaste tree leaf tea has a nice, earthy, herbal flavor.

In the garden, chaste tree is a lovely ornamental that draws in pollinators. The foliage is green and silver, and the blooms are a lovely lavender.

It’s a good addition to a Grocery Row Garden even if you don’t use it medicinally, as it has a rich, earthy, herbal aroma, and sprays of purple flowers that attract butterflies and moths, as well as feeding bees and hummingbirds.

We have a limited number of chaste trees in the nursery right now, and will bring them to our sale this Saturday.

One of these lovely ladies is going to be planted in my Grocery Row Gardens this week, too. And I want to put another one in the food forest.

We have one in the herb gardens already, and simply love the way they look, smell, and invite in the good insects.

We love plants that have multiple uses, and this one is care-free and more beautiful than most.

THIS SATURDAY:

Come meet us and get some “GOOD” plants!

We will have our nursery booth set up on Saturday, JUNE 17, at the Atmore Flea Market, from 8AM to 1PM.

ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

Some of the plants for sale include: Pineapple guava, Chaste tree, Echinacea, Edible cannas, Sweet Shrub, Jerusalem artichoke, Comfrey, Tobacco, Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young”, Longevity spinach, Tropical milkweed, Chocolate mint, Stevia, Banana (Dwarf Cavendish), Daisies, Elderberries …and a few more rare tidbits

We will also have books, and would love to talk gardening when you stop by.

SPECIAL DISCOUNT OFFER!

We like to recycle pots and reuse them, so we’ll give you a $.50 credit on any blank, useable, one-gallon or larger pot you bring to our booth. Bring what you have and trade ’em in for plants!

Hope to see you there.

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Wouldn’t be great if you didn’t have to use pesticides to keep bugs from eating your plants? How awesome would it be if you could just plant plants to take care of some of the most common pests? Guess what? You can!

Trap crops are a type of companion planting. But instead of increasing yield or improving flavor, these companions take one for the team and attract pests away from your prized vegetables. Trap crops are part of an environmentally sensitive approach called Integrated Pest Management (IPM), the basic premise of which is to start with the least toxic option first when managing pests. It doesn’t get any more nontoxic than planting a plant. And some of them happen to be quite beautiful, too!

Here are some of the top trap crops:

Nasturtiums

These edible flowers and leaves are aphid heaven. Aphids prefer nasturtiums and will choose them over your tomatoes. Whiteflies love them too. Nasturtiums come in mounding and trailing varieties. I use them as a ground cover under my tomatoes. They keep the whiteflies and aphids off my tomatoes and provide a form of mulch to conserve water and keep the soil cool. Bonus: Bumblebees, who are great tomato pollinators, love them, too!

Marigolds

A favorite and well-known trap crop, marigolds attract thrips. They also attract mites that feed on thrips. Thrips attack lettuces, spinach, and cabbages. Their roots are also known to repel nematodes. Bonus: You can use the petals to dye fabrics.

Blue Hubbard Squash

The cucurbit family is a large and varied family that includes winter and summer squash. A home gardener favorite, zucchini, is included in the family. Zucchini is also a favorite of the squash vine borer, which can decimate a zucchini plant. By planting a blue hubbard two weeks before you plant your zucchini, the squash vine borer moth will lay its eggs on the blue hubbard and not the zucchini. Once the blue hubbard has the vine borers, you can remove it and the threat to the zucchini.

Calendula (Pot Marigold)

Calendulas are sunny happy flowers that attract aphids, thrips, and whiteflies. They can repel beetles from asparagus and hornworms from tomatoes. Additionally, they attract hoverflies and ladybugs that eat the bad bugs. It has been used in teas and alternative medicine and makes a beautiful cut flower. Plant enough for your tomatoes—and for a vase-ful for your kitchen table.

Sunflowers

Stink bugs and leaf footed bugs love sunflowers. They also love tomatoes, but not as much as they love sunflowers. You can pick off or spray the stink bugs/leaf footed bugs with the least toxic option from the sunflowers. In the fall, the seed heads become food for birds.

See also:

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We’re in Norwalk, Ohio, visiting with Jodie Kerby today.

My husband and I have lived in our house for over 20 years, and this rose bush has always been here. I just made my new flower beds around it. I had an old lady stop by the house in 2000 and tell me that her dad planted these roses when she was a child. Knowing some of the history makes me love this rose bush even more. I hope you enjoy her as much as I do.

Though roses have a reputation for being fussy, many old roses are tough survivors that can persist and even thrive in gardens for years.

This old rose is certainly thriving, making a beautiful mass of flowers.

Many old roses bloom just once in the beginning of summer but make up for that by flowering heavily.

Look at these gorgeous flowers. In classic old-rose fashion, they are packed to the brim with layer upon layer of petals.

It’s wonderful to think about how many years, and for how many people, this beautiful rose has been bringing joy with its beauty.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

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Greatness shouldn’t be rushed, especially when it’s found in the form of a delicious apple.

So it’s definitely a major bummer when a Malus tree’s fruit hits the ground before it’s supposed to. A tragedy, even.

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For those less invested, a shrug and a “C’est la vie” may be all that’s expressed.

But for a grower who has labored and toiled in the hopes of an ample yield, a premature dropping of pomes can feel like a slap to the face.

If their livelihood depends on it, make that a slap from Russian slap-fighting legend Vasily “Dumpling” Kamotsky.

Diagnosing the cause of this problem isn’t always simple. There are many different factors at play, and more than one issue could occur simultaneously. So, how do you figure it out?

I’m obviously a bit biased, but I think this guide is a decent place to start.

Armed with a handful of potential causes, you’ll be able to draw conclusions for yourself – or at least have some theories ready to share with any local expert that you go to for additional help.

Here’s what we’ll be going over:

What Is Premature Apple Drop?

Essentially, premature apple drop is when the fruits fall prior to their intended harvest period, before they’re fully ripe.

As they mature, fruits produce ethylene, a gaseous plant hormone that helps to stimulate the ripening process.

With this hormone comes an increase in softness, sugar content, ripened colors, and aromas, while also reducing acidity and pre-ripe hues.

Ethylene also stimulates the production of cellulase and polygalacturonase enzymes, which break down the cell walls in pome stems, allowing for their easy detachment from branches.

Ethylene is produced after harvest, too. Harvested pomes continue to soften and darken, their shelf-life is reduced, and the odds of infection via pathogens increase. 

All of this occurs when things go according to plan, of course.

But in the case of premature apple drop, various factors can cause the fruits to leave their branches before their beloved qualities can fully come to fruition, pun intended.

This leaves you with less-than-desirable yields, regardless of what your intent for these yields may be.

If you primarily grow apples for your own fresh eating or for use in recipes, prematurely fallen yields won’t be as large, soft, aesthetically-colored, or tasty as mature and fully ripe ones would be.

For those who wish to sell their yields, whether commercially or at the amateur level, these reduced qualities leave vendors with less marketable produce overall.

So yeah, premature apple drop is no bueno. Let’s discuss some potential causes of it, shall we?

Causes of Premature Apple Drop

Premature apple drop can be a multifaceted issue… so here are a bunch of factors to consider in your diagnosis.

A heads up, though: more than one of these issues can simultaneously cause the problem, with each additional factor increasing drop severity. So you may have more than one metaphorical dragon to slay.

First and foremost, a stressed tree is more likely to release its fruits than a non-stressed one. Therefore, it pays to cultivate your Malus specimens properly.

If you need a refresher, feel free to have a look at our apple tree growing guide.

1. Apple Variety

All else kept equal, some varieties of apple are more naturally inclined than others to drop their fruit prematurely.

For example, ‘Honeycrisp,’ ‘McIntosh,’ and ‘Red Delicious’ varieties are less prone to premature drop, while ‘Gala,’ ‘Fuji,’ and ‘Jonathan’ are more prone.

Whether you’re evaluating the specimens in your current orchard or choosing varieties for a future one, you’ll need to weigh the pros and cons of different cultivars and do your research.

Is a variety’s taste worth its propensity towards premature drop? It’s a question that only you can answer, and your answer may dictate your choice of cultivar.

2. Excess Fruit Load

Technically, not all fruit drop is bad. In some cases, it’s a natural part of the ripening process, also known as “June drop.”

After pollination, the flowers give way to fruits, usually quite a lot of them. In most cases, the tree sets more than it can metabolically sustain long-term. The plant simply cannot provide enough energy to support each pome’s development to reach its potential full size.

As a result, the plant ends up promptly shedding some fruitlets. This usually begins in June – hence the name “June drop” – but depending on location and variety, it can start as early as May or as late as July.

Sometimes, you may have to thin additional fruits after the June drop ends, to encourage ample fruit size and quality.

Thin out fruits until there’s one pome spaced every four to nine inches along branches, allowing more distance for larger fruits and less distance for moderately-sized ones. Use hand pruners, long scissors, or do so by hand.

Sometimes this phenomenon can be excessive or it may start earlier than usual, which is often indicative of poor pollination or periods of cloudy weather that have reduced photosynthesis.

Overall, maintaining proper cultivation is the best preventative measure to avoid extreme June drop. In the specific case of reduced photosynthesis, you could try to add some more sun to the equation by pruning the canopy to increase light penetration.

3. Heavy Pruning

Don’t go too crazy with the pruning, though. That could cause some premature apple drop of its own.

When you prune away a ton of leaves, there goes the foliage for adequate photosynthesis, which forces the tree to jettison some excess pomes that it won’t be able to provide the necessary carbohydrates for.

So, how much pruning is too much? Well, if the leaf-to-fruit ratio is below 20:1, you may run into some issues.

But don’t feel like you have to count every leaf and pome! An approximation is fine.

4. Herbicide Damage

The indirect application of herbicides to an apple tree can act as a physiological stressor for the plant, which can lead to premature apple drop.

I mean, if I was holding a bag of Granny Smiths in line at the grocery store and someone sprayed a bunch of glyphosate on me, I’d definitely drop them before reaching the register.

When using herbicide sprays, it’s essential to control where your herbicide ends up. Don’t directly spray non-weeds with herbicides.

And be mindful of excessive herbicide usage on weeds, as it can easily drift via wind to undesirable places.

5. Hot and Freezing Temperatures

Early warm temperatures or extreme heat can stimulate ethylene production, which reduces growth during this stressful time.

But with this reduced growth comes increased ripening, which can trigger fruit drop prematurely.

Even warm nights can trigger significant cellular respiration in fruits, potentially lowering carb levels enough to warrant their early ejection.

Freezing temperatures, especially right before flowering buds are set, can also stress a tree enough to interfere with development.

This may force an early release of fruits later in the season.

There’s not much you can do about the temperature, but it’s worth keeping this risk factor in mind!

Definitely a good reminder to double-check your local USDA Hardiness Zones when planning out your orchard, that’s for sure.

If you’re located at the edge of what’s acceptable, seek out heat- or frost-tolerant varieties.

6. Low Water

Often going hand in hand with high temperatures, a water deficiency is yet another stressor that can cause an apple tree to let go of its fruits early.

Ensuring enough water is available for a plant in times of drought stress is twofold: irrigation and moisture retention are factors here.

You’ve gotta actually add enough water, and make sure that it doesn’t evaporate too quickly via a nice layer of mulch around the root zone.

7. Pests and Diseases

Along with feeding on your pomes, which can cause them to fall – not to mention leaving infested fruits looking grossly inedible – pests may feed from and damage the tree’s leaves.

This reduces photosynthesis to levels below what’s necessary for powering a pome’s growth and development.

Diseases can cause similar issues, as they can be major health stressors that can force the tree to focus on survival at the expense of reproduction.

Therefore, it’s essential to try and prevent pests and diseases in Malus trees, and learn how to manage them if they strike.

For some pointers, check out our guides on apple pests (coming soon!) and apple diseases!

8. Poor Pollination

If June drop is occurring earlier than usual, poor pollination may be the culprit.

Most Malus varieties can’t pollinate themselves without the help of another variety that flowers at a similar time.

To increase the pollination rates of your trees, you’ll need at least one variety in the same flowering group as the ones growing in your orchard… for the most part.

There are select varieties that actually self-pollinate, while “triploid” cultivars actually need two other types of trees nearby to bear fruit, believe it or not.

In a pinch, you can even use non-Malus species of pome fruit trees to pollinate your apple specimens in some cases, such as pears.

Regardless of what you decide to grow for cross-pollination, you should space your specimens no more than 50 feet away from each other. Read more about fruit tree spacing in our guide.

9. Severe Wind

In the event of harsh winds, sometimes your pomes can be knocked from the branches before they’re supposed to fall.

Or said winds can cause branches to sway, which ends up throwing the attached fruits off. Either way, the winds are to blame.

Proper placement of your trees can help mitigate wind damage. A tall line of burlap or a wall of densely-packed conifers such as arborvitae can be wonderful windbreaks.

Man-made structures such as barns, sheds, or even your home can shield your plants from wind as well.

Since they’re particularly at risk, juvenile specimens could often do with some staking.

Draping with wind covers such as tarps or frost cloths is better suited for older trees, as the covers may act as wind sails for the weaker-rooted younger ones that could potentially rip them out of the ground.

Additionally, a bit of pruning – without being excessive – can reduce the canopy’s surface area so high winds have less to batter around.

10. Soil Nutrition

“An apple a day keeps the doctor away,” as they say.

But these fruits can’t become nutritional powerhouses for us without receiving proper nourishment in their infancy themselves. And for plants, nutrients are primarily acquired from the soil.

When the soil’s nutritional content isn’t what it’s supposed to be, an apple tree may release many of its fruits prior to harvest.

Insufficient organic matter and low levels of magnesium are two of the most well-known offenders in Malus trees, while nutritional excesses, such as high potassium and high boron levels, can lead to premature drop as well.

An intelligently-designed and well-structured fertilization program will ensure that your orchard is a well-tuned fruit-producing machine.

11. Soil Texture

Even soil texture, i.e. the soil’s composition of sand, silt, and clay, can make a difference in ripening times.

The fruits of trees planted in coarsely-textured, sandy soils tend to ripen and potentially drop earlier than those of specimens planted in heavier, more clayey soils.

Early doesn’t always mean prematurely early, but for a tree that’s prone to early drop or dealing with some of the above factors already, the soil’s texture can make a significant difference.

Amending the soil around large roots is no easy feat, so it’s best to make the desired modifications to your orchard’s soil well before your trees are planted.

Put a Stop to the Drop

Nothing throws a wrench in your apple-eating plans quite like a lack of apples. Now that you know what can make them drop prematurely, the fates of your future fruits are more secure.

This guide is just a starting point, though. Once you have some ideas of what might be going on for you, don’t be afraid to reach out to fellow green thumbs for aid.

Orchard owners, extension agents, fellow backyard growers – all of them can be fantastic sources of wisdom!

Questions, insights, personal successes or failures to share? The comments section below awaits your input.

And for a handful additional guides to growing your own apples, here’s what we have in store:

Listen, I adore roses, but even I can admit that categorizing these plants has gotten a little bit, shall we say, confusing.

I mean, a “shrub” is a group classification, but all roses are botanically shrubs as well. Then there are miniature and miniflora types.

They’re both small, and a breeder who hybridizes a tiny plant can choose which category they want to stick their new plant in.

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That means the same 12-inch-tall plant that a breeder just created could be described as a mini, miniflora, or a shrub, depending on what the breeder picks.

You can see why there’s some confusion surrounding this.

It helps to have labels to understand exactly what it is we are talking about when we discuss roses.

If you’re out shopping for a particular plant and you hope to find something that is about 16 inches tall with full-sized blossoms, you’re going to want to ask for a miniflora rather than a miniature plant when you talk to the salesperson.

So, what’s the deal with miniflora and miniature roses? What sets them apart? What similarities do they share?

We’re going to explain everything in just a minute. Up ahead, here’s what we’ll discuss to make the difference between these two types of petite roses crystal clear:

Rose classifications around the globe are determined by the American Rose Society (ARS).

They oversee classifications and registrations, so when we say a certain name or term pertaining to roses is classified, we mean the ARS has done so.

But of course, not everyone gardens by the book. Sometimes we use slang or common terms that aren’t officially recognized by the ARS.

Someone might call a tiny rose “miniature” even if it isn’t technically defined as one by this professional organization.

That’s why the ARS has set some guidelines and keeps track of all the registered plant classifications. Both can be climbers or shrubs in growth habit.

Whichever type you decide to grow, these have the same requirements as standard plants. I know it’s tempting, especially since they are sold in some grocery stores as houseplants, but these should never be kept indoors full-time, even the teeny-tiny ones.

What Is a Miniature Rose?

A miniature is just what it sounds like: a plant that has been bred to stay smaller than the average shrub.

These shrubs generally stay under 30 inches tall, and the leaves and blossoms are proportionally small as well. These are the original tiny roses and they have been cultivated for centuries.

Miniatures can come in climbing or shrub types, and there are moss, teas, and China roses among these. China is the species parent from which all minis descended.

The one commonality here is that they’re much smaller overall, with petite flowers and foliage. The blossoms are generally less full than those found on larger plants.

Their compact nature makes them popular container plants.

Sequoia Nurseries founder Ralph Moore is considered the granddaddy of miniatures and he is sometimes called the “David Austin of miniature roses.”

He has bred over 300 different hybrids, and won dozens of awards from both the ARS and rose societies across the United States and abroad.

There are 16 miniatures that have been inducted into the ARS Hall of Fame to date, and six of them are his.

You can find plants in this category in public and private gardens across the globe. A miniature called ‘Overnight Scentsation’ has even been to space.

What Is a Miniflora?

Minifloras were first bred and released commercially in 1973. They are a hybrid cross of miniature and standard types.

According to the ARS, a miniflora is a plant that falls between floribunda and miniature in size, with leaf and blossom structures falling between the two in size as well.

Some of the original ones were bred by respected hybridizers Dee Bennett of California and Herb Zipper.

In 1982, Star Roses released a Myland series called Sunblazes under the label “mini-flora.”

These plants are still around and are popular today throughout Europe though less common in the US. They reach about 18 inches high with large blossoms.

Minifloras were trademarked by the well-known Maryland breeder J. Benjamin Williams, and the label was written as “mini-flora.”

Williams generously donated the trademark to the American Rose Society in 1999. In 2009, the styling was changed to be written as one word, “miniflora.”

Minifloras usually have flowers that are every bit as large as those found on many standard-sized shrubs. Under the right conditions, the blossoms grow up to three inches in diameter.

The plants themselves can sometimes reach up to five feet tall and may still be considered minifloras if the breeder registers them as such.

They come in all of the colors that you may see in standard roses, and every flower size from single to very full.

Where Do Patio and Micromini Types Fit In?

You might hear the term “patio” used to refer to small roses.

Patio isn’t an official classification, but rather, a general grouping of plants that are about the right size for growing in pots on patios.

These might include minifloras as well as miniatures, and small polyanthas, floribundas, or hybrid teas.

Similarly, micromini isn’t an official classification. These are plants that are extremely small, usually under 12 inches tall, with proportionally tiny blossoms.

You’ll often see these sold as houseplants in grocery stores and nurseries. But remember, roses don’t make good houseplants.

Varieties to Select

It’s an impossible task to try to narrow down the best roses in any category.

Some people are willing to put up with a delicate plant in exchange for stunning flowers. Others wouldn’t dream of planting a shrub that needs regular deadheading to bloom.

That said, the following have been proven to combine beauty, adaptability, and disease resistance.

All of the ones mentioned below are technically classified as minis or minifloras except for one. We’ll go into more detail:

Acadia

Bred by L. Pernille and Mogens Nyegaard Olesen of Fredensborg, Denmark, ‘Acadia’ has beautiful full, apricot and pink blend blossoms with a pungent wild rose fragrance.

This miniflora tops out at a mere three feet, though it often stays much shorter.

Grow this member of the beloved National Parks series in Zones 6 to 9.

Be My Baby

She’s petite, but her impact isn’t. The 28-inch shrub is covered in deep pink, very double blossoms in large clusters that return in flushes throughout the growing season.

It’s classified as a miniature.

‘Be My Baby’

Grab a live plant in a #2 container at Nature Hills Nursery for growing in Zones 5 to 10.

Drift

Plants in the Drift® series stay under about 18 inches tall and spread a bit wider.

They are technically classified by the ARS as shrub types, which is sort of a catch-all category that many growers choose.

Drifts are often referred to as ground covers, which isn’t an official classification.

See? I told you classification can be confusing! But we’re figuring it out, right?

Because these are hybrids between a mini and a floribunda, they could be called minifloras. But the breeder did not specifically choose to define them this way.

At any rate, if you’re looking for a miniflora, they fit the bill, regardless of their official classification. What’s in a name, anyway?

Peach Drift®, aka ‘Meijocos’ is my favorite of the Drift family. It grows about 18 inches tall and twice as wide in Zones 4 to 11 and has peachy-pink double blossoms with orange centers.

Peach Drift®

Let this one fill up a spot in your garden by purchasing a plant at Fast Growing Trees in a two- or three-gallon container.

Want something a little more classic? Red Drift® is the same size as Peach Drift® but with masses of deep red blossoms.

Red Drift®

It’s hardy in Zones 5 to 10, and you can find three-gallon live plants at Perfect Plants Nursery.

Joy

If there’s an award out there, you can bet ‘Joy’ has won it. This is the top-rated commercially available rose classified by the ARS as a miniature on the market.

A hybrid of ‘Silverhill’ and ‘Kristin,’ it features multi-hued pink and white, fully double blossoms.

One of the things that makes ‘Joy’ so exceptional is that the flowers hold for an extremely long time.

In fact, they will practically dry on the bush in the perfect shape rather than fully opening and falling. You can keep them for weeks in a refrigerator and almost as long in a vase on the counter.

‘Joy’ typically stays around three feet in height, but it can reach four feet tall in ideal conditions. It’s also exceptionally disease resistant.

Overnight Scentsation

Behold the flower that went into space. A cross between the floribunda ‘Taxi’ and the miniature ‘Lavender Jade,’ NASA used this shrub to explore the way that fragrance compounds are impacted outside of the Earth’s atmosphere.

If you lament the lack of scent with other minis, this one will be a joy to have around. It is extremely fragrant with a floral scent.

This cultivar was originally classified as a mini because the miniflora class didn’t exist yet, but it has since been reclassified as a miniflora by the ARS.

A Big Performance in a Tiny Package

Regardless of what you call them, these tiny roses pack a lot into a small package. You get all the joy of rose growing in a much smaller footprint.

What’s your favorite petite option? Did we include it here, or did we miss the one that’s closest to your heart? Let us know in the comments.

You probably know that there’s a whole lot more to rose growing than we’ve covered here.

If you want to go down the rabbit hole on your way to becoming a rosarian, you might be interested in a few of our other guides, starting with:

Have you ever wondered where that new and exciting plant you just saw at the garden center came from? Or perhaps why certain plants are more expensive than others? In this exclusive video, you’ll get a behind-the-scenes tour of the Monrovia regional nursery in Granby, Connecticut, to see how plants go from a single seedling to a robust perennial or shrub. We’ll explore areas of a nursery that few gardeners ever see, from the soil-mixing facility, to production fields, and even to the coveted propagation houses. Monrovia grows an extensive, carefully selected collection of woody plants and herbaceous perennials for every gardener’s need, and some of these plants can take up to 10 years before they arrive at independent garden centers.

A surprising aspect of this detailed operation is the high level of sustainable practices that the nursery employs. From efficient irrigation systems, to a 90% capture of run-off water, to the use of integrated pest management, you’ll see how Monrovia plants are grown with planet-saving tactics in mind.

In this video you’ll also get a special preview of several brand-new varieties coming into local garden centers soon. These include the gorgeous Seaside Serenade^® Glacier Bay Hydrangea and tough-as-nails Grace N’ Grit^® White Shrub Rose. Horticulturist Mark Hixson, who is Monrovia’s East region customer service coach,  is our tour guide through the nursery. Most of us like to know where our food comes from, if it’s possible to get that information—so why not take that practice and apply it to the plants that fill our gardens? With this all-access pass, you’ll finally understand where your blue hydrangea originated from and who was responsible for creating its beauty.

 

Exciting new plants mentioned in this video

Blue Enchantress Hydrangea

Seaside Serenade Glacier Bay Hydrangea

Grace N’ Grit Red Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit Pink Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit White Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit Yellow Shrub Rose

Grace N’ Grit Pink Bicolor Shrub Rose

Nitty-Gritty Peach Rose

Nitty-Gritty White Rose

Nitty-Gritty Red Rose

Nitty-Gritty Pink Rose

Nitty-Gritty Yellow Rose

 

For more about Monrovia nursery and their high-quality plants, visit monrovia.com.

 

 

 

Allan asks about how thorny berries and potatoes would fit into a Grocery Row Garden :

I enjoyed watching @davidthegood. A couple questions – I’m worried about planting potatoes as you need to dig out of the ground, and would disturb the roots, especially the trees, the other question is about the berries, being that the rows are so close, the thorns would be quite annoying to go past? I would love to hear your thoughts on these and from others as well.

Back in 2014, I wrote a post about sweet potatoes, in which I stated:

“The first way I grew them as a kid, long, long ago, was in my neighbor’s flower box when she was out of town. They took over and smothered the petunias.

It was awesome.

Later, I’ve grown them here and there in raised beds and in deep mulch gardens and even in my blueberry patch.

I don’t recommend doing that anymore, since my blueberries grew really slowly thanks to the root competition.”

Both sweet potatoes and white potatoes do require digging to harvest, which is going to cause some root disruption.

Blueberries are particularly unhappy when you mess with their roots, as some other trees must be.

But some trees haven’t seemed to mind when we grew huge yams right next to them (and then spent hours digging them out):

As for the Grocery Row Gardens, growing potatoes around trees may be a problem long-term. However, our potato growing in the rows has only been done during the first year, when the tree root systems are still small. They’re barely effected, if at all, since the potatoes aren’t being planted right next to their tiny root system.

Unfortunately, our dataset is slim on long-term potato growing in Grocery Rows. And by that, I mean non-existent.

The first prototype Grocery Row Garden beds we built long ago in North Florida were filled solely with perennials.

The second set of Grocery Row Gardens we built in Grenada, where we really expanded on the idea of using food forest verticality in a controlled linear system, were not in a climate amenable to growing potatoes. We did grow sweet potatoes around some trees, but there wasn’t enough time to observe results before the pandemic swept away our tropical homesteading dreams.

Then, our next beds – this time in Lower Alabama – only gave us two potato-growing seasons before we found our new homestead.

Not enough for long-term testing with potatoes and fruit trees.

However, I have a hunch that growing potatoes around the trees may actually reduce their vigor a bit in a positive way, by helping to keep the trees smaller, which is necessary to maintain a Grocery Row Garden long-term. I also think that some limited root disturbance may even make the trees more resilient and give them tougher root systems, as pruned roots may branch out more and spread.

But, if you’re worried, just plant your potatoes somewhere in the 12′ gap between fruit trees, and not too near them.

As for thorny berries, yes, they could be annoying. Our Mysore raspberries are really nasty to grow in the rows. Though we grow a few anyways, here and there. It’s probably best to avoid growing them on both sides of a path or you’ll have to pass through the gardens in a full suit of armor.

The main berries we’ve grown in the Grocery Rows are thornless blackberries, blueberries and the somewhat thorny Heritage raspberry. If you do plant thorny types, you might want to put some strings or a short piece of fence or trellis you can use to keep them from destroying your pleasant garden paths (and your clothing) as you pass by.

Happy gardening! Be sure to watch the complete Grocery Row Gardening documentary, if you haven’t seen it yet.

Also, don’t forget, we have a plant sale this weekend.

Plant Sale Details:

Come meet us and get some “GOOD” plants!

We will have our nursery booth set up on Saturday, JUNE 17, at the Atmore Flea Market, from 8AM to 1PM.

ADDRESS: 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

Some of the plants for sale include: Pineapple guava, Chaste tree, Echinacea, Edible cannas, Sweet Shrub, Jerusalem artichoke, Comfrey, Tobacco, Bamboo (giant yellow timber type) “Robert Young”, Longevity spinach, Tropical milkweed, Chocolate mint, Stevia, Banana (Dwarf Cavendish), Daisies, Elderberries …and a few more rare tidbits

We will also have books, and would love to talk gardening when you stop by.

Hope to see you there!

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For hundreds of years, the world has been enchanted by mint’s cool and refreshing aroma. This small, prolific herb continues to be a garden staple and is luckily very easy to grow and use. Here’s everything you need to know on how to harvest mint!

Mint is a very advantageous perennial herb. Most people choose to grow it in containers; otherwise, it can quickly take over a portion of the garden. One second, you have an itty bitty plant; the next moment, you have a whole community of mint leaves.

The Latin name for mint, Mentha, comes from the Greek myth surrounding the nymph Minthe. After being turned into a low-growing plant and getting trampled on, Hades gifted the plant a delectable aroma so everyone could remember her beauty.

To this day, mint is everywhere, from our toothpaste to our favourite cocktails. People love the refreshing quality of the cool herb. It also has some amazing health benefits, being used as a digestive aid. Cup of peppermint tea, anyone?

If you have a thriving mint plant in your garden, get prepared to harvest plenty of mint leaves this summer. Here’s how to harvest mint, store it, dry it, and use it!

In this post, we’ll learn…

When to Harvest Mint

When mint reaches about four inches in height, feel free to begin harvesting mint leaves. The best time of day to harvest any herb is in the early morning. The plant has the highest concentration of oils in the morning, therefore containing the best flavour and medicinal value.

Mint should also be harvested before it begins to flower, which is about mid-way during the growing season. After the plant flowers, the flavour and leaf production will decrease.

How to Harvest Mint

You can pluck a few leaves off at a time if you only need a few, say for garnishes. Alternatively, you can snip off entire stems. To snip stems, find a leaf node where new leaves emerge and cut just above them.

Use sharp bypass pruners or scissors when harvesting mint. Ensure the pruners or scissors are clean by disinfecting them with rubbing alcohol.

Never take more than 2/3 of the plant in one harvest. This can cause the mint to go into shock. Usually, I would say to do no more than 1/3, but mint is very prolific, so vigorous harvesting can help keep the plant from spreading rapidly.

If you harvest lots at once, you should be able to do this 3-4 times during the growing season, making it ideal for succession planting. After 2-3 weeks, the plant will grow new leaves.

How to Store Harvested Mint

After harvesting, your mint will need cool temperatures, or it will wilt. Wrap your mint stems in a moist paper towel and then place them in a plastic bag or directly into a glass of water. Then, place it in the fridge, where it should keep for 7-10 days.

How to Dry Mint

Mint tastes delicious fresh, but it’s also a great idea to dry some so you have a supply in the winter when things get cool.

I like to collect stems in my hand until I have a good-sized bundle. Then, I secure it with some twine or a rubber band to hang it.

Make sure to…

• Hang upside down.
• Put it in a warm spot but out of direct sunlight.
• Keep the plants dry. Avoid moisture as much as possible.

After 2-4 weeks, check your mint to see if it’s dry. When ready, the leaves will crumble and fall off the stem with very little resistance. Place the dried leaves into a sealed glass jar and store them somewhere cool when not in use. They should stay good for one year before they begin to lose their flavour.

Here are more creative ways to dry and preserve herbs.

How to Use Mint

Mint is a lovely addition to drinks, desserts, curries, savoury sauces, and more. Here are a few creative ways to use your harvested mint when you have more than you know what to do with!

Frequently Asked Questions About Harvesting Mint

More Burning Herb Questions Answered!

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Family trips are great fun, and a chance to make memories that will last a lifetime. But how do you make sure those precious adventures are remembered?

In this article we’ll take a look at the best ways to make and preserve memories while travelling with family.

1. Start a family tradition

One way to create and preserve memories of family holidays is to choose a favourite tradition that you all enjoy, and try to do it on all your trips. Whatever activity you pick, it can become something that you and your kids will look forward to each time you travel. For example, you could go to small cafés to try the local cuisine, or explore local museums. If your family is into sports, you could go to sports matches in every place you visit – just make sure you book the tickets in advance, especially for big events.

2. Create a video or slideshow 

Once you’re back from your trip, you’ll probably have lots of new photos and videos to share with friends and family. But a gallery of thousands of files that needs thinning down can be a barrier to enjoying and sharing your photographic memories. 

Making videos and photo slideshows with your travel memories is a good solution here. If you’ve never created one before, take a look at this guide on how to make an animated map for a family trip video. This way, you’ll be able to compile everything into one engaging movie that you can easily share with others via email or on social media. 

3. Start a travel blog on instagram

One of the most popular ways to show off your travel adventures is through blogging, and Instagram is an easy platform to use. You can post 24-hour stories, videos, and photos. If you don’t want to share your memories with strangers, you can run a private account. But if you make it public and create truly engaging content, chances are your audience will expand. Using hashtags will help you to increase reach.

4. Plan the trip together 

The best way to get the whole family engaged with your adventure is to plan the trip together. For instance, you can each make a list of places you’d like to visit during your holiday, then decide on an itinerary together. If you struggle to narrow down your list, don’t hesitate to check other travellers’ advice. 

5. Mail a postcard to your home address

This tip might sound trivial, but it’s a simple way to preserve a family memory. It’s also affordable and accessible – all tourist destinations sell postcards displaying the local iconic sights.

6. Use a scratch-off travel map

If you travel regularly as a family, you might want to keep a record of where you’ve been. Scratch-off maps are perfect for this task. As well as being a useful travel tracker, they can also be stylish home decor. You can order these maps on the Internet, or even make your own if you’re a fan of crafting.

7. Give your kids a camera 

Children like to feel important, so you can give them the freedom to take a few shots while travelling. Sometimes, young travellers take unbelievably great photos. Besides, it’s a simple way to keep a bored child occupied!

If you’re concerned about them breaking the camera or phone, you can buy a cheap disposable camera or give them an old compact camera that you no longer use.

8. Create a photo book

Creating a photo book when you are back from your travels can help you preserve memories and spend some quality time with your family members. Spend an evening picking your favourite photos and putting them together in a travel photo book. You can make your own, or create a photo book online. If your children are tech-savvy, they can also help design and arrange the pictures in the book.

We hope these tips help you make and preserve memories when travelling with family, and give you lots of ideas to make the most of those precious trips.

In recent years, there has been a growing awareness and concern about the impact of our choices on both our health and the environment. This has led to a rise in the popularity of organic and eco-friendly mattresses. In this article, we will explore the benefits of choosing these mattresses, not only for your health but also for the well-being of our planet. So, let’s dive in and discover the advantages of embracing organic and eco-friendly mattresses!

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Enhancing Your Health and Well-being

When it comes to our sleep environment, it’s important to prioritize our health. Organic and eco-friendly mattresses are crafted with materials that are free from harmful chemicals, pesticides, and synthetic materials. This means they are made without the use of potentially toxic substances, such as flame retardants, formaldehyde, and volatile organic compounds.

Sleeping on an organic mattress reduces your exposure to these harmful substances, which can have a positive impact on your health. Many people find that they experience fewer allergies, skin irritations, and respiratory issues when they switch to organic mattresses. Furthermore, organic mattresses are often hypoallergenic, making them an excellent choice for those with sensitivities or allergies.

Supporting a Sustainable Environment

Choosing an organic and eco-friendly mattress also demonstrates your commitment to supporting a sustainable environment. These mattresses are typically made from natural, renewable, and biodegradable materials, such as organic cotton, natural latex, organic wool, and sustainable bamboo.

By opting for these mattresses, you are reducing your carbon footprint and minimizing the negative impact on the environment. The use of organic and sustainably sourced materials promotes biodiversity, conserves water, and reduces the use of harmful chemicals in the manufacturing process. Additionally, eco-friendly mattresses are often recyclable or compostable, making them a greener choice when it’s time to replace them.

Durability and Longevity

Investing in an organic and eco-friendly mattress can also provide you with a long-lasting sleep solution. These mattresses are typically built with high-quality materials that are designed to withstand the test of time. Organic latex, for example, is known for its durability and resilience.

By choosing a mattress that is built to last, you can reduce the frequency of replacing your mattress, thereby reducing waste. The longer lifespan of organic and eco-friendly mattresses also means that fewer resources are required for manufacturing and transportation, further reducing their environmental impact.

To sum up; opting for an organic and eco-friendly mattress is not only beneficial for your health but also for the environment. By choosing materials free from harmful chemicals and supporting sustainable manufacturing practices, you can create a sleep environment that promotes well-being and reduces your ecological footprint.

When you invest in an organic and eco-friendly mattress, you are making a conscious choice to support your health and the health of our planet. So, rest easy knowing that your sleep sanctuary is free from toxins and that you’re doing your part in creating a more sustainable world. 

 

Today we’re headed all the way to India to visit Saroj Sawhney’s beautiful garden. Saroj lives in the village Shyamkhet, Uttrakhand, in the north of the country.

The weather here has been a delightful experience, the fragrances particularly. The early morning begins with the chirping of the birds, the sunrise behind the hills, and morning light on the trees. The flowers are simply magical, and the changing light on the hill takes over with stunning views to admire.

A beautiful rose blooms against the backdrop of the mountains behind. What a magical setting for this garden!

In North America, we’re used to seeing amaryllis (Hippeastrum hybrids, Zones 8–11) grown as houseplants indoors in the winter. But in warmer climes, they can grow outside as beautiful flowering perennials.

The lush garden invites you to explore what is half-hidden behind the greenery.

The home is beautiful and sits perfectly in the garden.

Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora, Zones 7–10) is native to the southeastern United States but is popular in gardens all over the warm parts of the world for its glossy foliage and beautiful, huge white flowers.

Looking out from the garden to the beautiful views of the hills beyond.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Dating back to 280 million years ago, cycads lived in the Mesozoic Era. With a tropical, palm-like look, their stiff leaves and stout trunk add a bold structure and intrigue to a modern or tropical garden. Be aware that all parts of these plants are poisonous and are quite poky; plus they grow slow like molasses which explains their hefty price tag. Plant in sun or part sun in a fast-draining palm or succulent soil mix. My favorites: Cycas revoluta and Cycad Encephalartos.

Protea

This species dates back to 300 million years, when the climate was way different and South Africa was a tropical forest. Proteas are low water, large woody shrubs with thick stems and stiff leaves but most notable for their otherworldly flowers that are prized by florists for lasting a long time (though, sorry, not millions) and for drying exceptionally well. And because this plant family is quite eclectic and diverse, it is named for the Greek god Proteus who could change between many forms. These plants are pollinated by a variety of bats, birds, insects, and tiny mammals, which makes them critical to many ecosystems. Pro tip: Avoid fertilizers containing phosphorous as this will kill the plant. My favorites: King Protea (South Africa’s national flower) and Protea ‘Pink Ice’.

Tree Fern

If you lived in the Triassic Period, 230 million years ago, you would have probably lounged under tropical tree ferns, sharing them with dinosaurs who feasted on the fronds. Luckily today you can still hang out under a fern without the fear of a massive vegetarian joining you. These stately plants sport lengthy feathery fronds and a furry trunk, and require moist, rich soil and a partly sunny to dappled-shady spot. Tree ferns look lovely in all sorts of gardens: Asian, woodland, modern, and tropical. Pro tip: Water the crown of the tree fern and the trunk to increase needed humidity. My favorites: Cyathea cooperi and Dicksonia Antarctica.

Gunnera

If you’ve ever encountered a Gunnera, you’ll always remember its gigantic 4-foot-wide leaves; and if you’ve ever had direct contact, you’ll never forget how razor sharp their leaves are. (Pro tip: always wear heavy leather gloves when pruning.) Ninety-five million years ago this vicious trait may have come in handy repelling hungry dinosaurs—even though its nickname is “dinosaur food.” Native to Argentina and Southern Chile, this gargantuan, clumping plant doesn’t tolerate freezing temperatures but does make a massive statement in a tropical or collector’s garden. This prehistoric plant’s favorite place is in very moist conditions, like situated next to a stream, pond, or other boggy locale and in a sunny to partly sunny spot. A Gunnera can clump to 8 foot wide, so give it plenty of room to spread its spiky but spectacular leaves. My favorite: Gunnera tinctoria.

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Compact varieties with an upright growth habit are a natural for edging or as fillers in flower beds.

And the trailing varieties have a lush, spreading habit that are superb cascading out of containers, hanging baskets, and window boxes – or spilling over rockeries and retaining walls.

Plus, they’re fast-growing and easy to cultivate from seed at home.

Vibrant and virtually pest free, you’ll soon find out why the Victorians got hooked on these delightful, low-maintenance plants!

Here’s everything you need to know about how to plant and grow Lobelia erinus.

Cultivation and History

L. erinus is one of over 400 species in the genus Lobelia. A dwarf species, it’s commonly known as annual, edging, garden, or trailing lobelia.

It gives a lush and reliable display, making it highly popular for containers, border edging, short-season fillers, hanging baskets, rockeries, and window boxes.

This tender perennial is typically grown as an annual for its low and trailing growth habit that provides terrific ornamental value anywhere it’s planted.

A member of the bellflower or Campanulaceae family, the small tubular flowers have a large, fan-shaped lower lip of three fused sepals and a two-sepal upper lip in intense shades of blue, mauve, pink, violet, and white.

The two-lipped flowers grow in large clusters and often feature attractive white eyes. Plant foliage is light and lacy, with thin ovate leaves and serrated edges.

Highly attractive to butterflies and other pollinators, plants bloom from mid spring to early autumn. They thrive in cooler temperatures and make an excellent choice for areas with dappled or light shade.

Lobelia can also be grown as a perennial where winter temperatures remain above freezing.

In both the upright and trailing forms, mature dimensions are typically four to nine inches tall with a spread of eight to 16 inches.

Native to southern Africa, L. erinus was first introduced into Holland from the Cape province of South Africa in the 1680s.

It made its way to England around 1760 and became a star of the Victorian “bedding” craze – the vivid blues were a favorite for mass planting in the front of large, colorful beds.

Thanks to its wild popularity with the Victorians, lobelia arrived in North American gardens in the mid-1800s.

Within the genus are some well-known North American wildflowers that make attractive perennials in the garden as well.

Propagation

Lobelia seeds are extremely small and fine-textured but are easy to cultivate if started indoors eight to 12 weeks before transplanting out – generally, two to four weeks after your last frost date.

Direct sowing outdoors after the average last frost date in your area is possible, but germination is much less reliable and indoor sowing is recommended.

Because the seed is so fine, seedlings often mat together and can be difficult to pull apart when transplanting.

Place in a location with a bright light – or under a grow light – and a soil temperature of 65-75°F. You can use a heat mat if required.

Provide bottom watering or water gently with a mist sprayer to avoid disturbing the seeds. Keep the soil evenly moist but not wet.

Cover with a clear hood or place in a polythene bag to keep seeds moist and warm. Germination occurs in 15 to 21 days.

After four to six weeks, when seedlings are two to four inches tall, you can start to gradually harden them off to prepare them for outdoor conditions.

Despite their preference for cool weather, they won’t survive a late spring frost – don’t plant out until nighttime temperatures remain consistently above 60°F.

To harden off, place seedlings in a sheltered location outdoors for an hour a day, and gradually extend the time they spend outside over the course of a week or two.

When transplanting seedlings or nursery starts into beds or containers, plant at the same depth and width as the container they are growing in. Space seedlings four to six inches apart.

How to Grow

Plants do well in full sun to part shade and require well-draining soil enriched with organic matter.

Lobelia is adaptable to most soils but does best in slightly acidic conditions with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5

They thrive in the coolness of spring, and older varieties benefit from some shade in midsummer.

Newer cultivars have been developed for improved heat tolerance that keeps them blooming regardless of the temperature.

Pruning and Maintenance

Lobelia requires little care, but older cultivars can suffer from dieback in extreme heat.

If plants start to fail, cut them back by as much as one-third, and provide some afternoon shade. Water and feed regularly and they’ll rebound in a couple of weeks.

Managing Pests and Disease

Mature lobelia plants are typically healthy and suffer no serious problems due to disease or insect pests.

Heat-induced dieback in midsummer is the most common problem. This can be avoided by providing plants with afternoon shade or growing heat-tolerant cultivars.

However, seedlings can sometimes suffer from damping off – a fungal disease that causes stem rot at – and below – the soil surface.

You can help prevent damping off by sowing seeds as finely as possible and improving air circulation around the seedlings. Use a house fan to provide a breeze if needed.

Learn more about damping off in this guide.

Keep the soil moist, but not wet, and bottom-water the seedling trays. Also, avoid getting the foliage wet and maintain even soil temperatures for the healthiest environment.

Lobelia is also resistant to larger pests, such as deer and rabbits.

Best Garden Uses

The compact, mounding cultivars with an upright form are well-suited for bed fronts, borders, edging, and short-season fillers.

They can be added throughout butterfly and rock gardens – when used in-ground, mass plantings of a single color have tremendous visual appeal.

Trailing forms are best suited for growing in containers, hanging baskets, window boxes, and on top of retaining walls – anywhere they can spill downwards to display their graceful, brilliant cascades.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Tender perennial grown as an annual	Flower / Foliage Color:	Blue, pink, purple, white/green
Native to:	Southern Africa	Tolerance:	Part shade
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	10-11 (perennial)	Maintenance:	Moderate
Bloom Time / Season:	Spring to fall	Soil Type:	Average, organically rich
Exposure:	Full sun to part shade	Soil pH:	5.5-6.5
Spacing:	4-6 inches	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Planting Depth:	Surface (seeds)	Companion Planting:	Begonia, calibrachoa, fuchsia, helichrysum
Height:	4-9 inches	Uses:	As fillers and spillers in containers, hanging baskets, and window boxes. For edging and fillers in beds, butterfly gardens, and rockeries.
Spread:	8-16 inches	Order:	Asterales
Growth Rate:	Moderate	Family:	Campanulaceae
Time to Maturity:	12-16 weeks from sowing	Genus:	Lobelia
Water Needs:	Moderate	Species:	erinus
Common Pests:	Corn earworm	Common Diseases:	Damping off

Reliable Splashes of Color

For plants that add a reliable splash of color throughout the summer, annual lobelia is one of the best!

Easy to cultivate in sun or shade, it’s virtually pest-free, has a long bloom season, and flower colors are delightful.

You’ll quickly fall under the spell of this cheerful charmer as it brightens beds and containers from spring until fall.

Self-fertile, each flower is equipped with both male and female reproductive parts. So, with just a few minutes of extra effort a week if conditions are less than ideal, you can be sure of an abundant, fruitful crop!

Join us now as we look at four easy ways to hand pollinate tomatoes.

Blossom Basics

Tomatoes are self-pollinating plants that have the perfect flowers for the task. That is, each flower contains both the male and female reproductive organs (i.e. the stamen and stigma).

This makes pollination easy because each blossom releases pollen from the stamen to land on its own stigma. And once fertilized, fruit develops.

Typically, tomato fertilization is achieved through buzz or wind pollination. But numerous studies have determined that buzz pollination is the most effective in terms of fruit size, yield quantities, and increased seed count.

Buzz pollination occurs when certain insects, ones with the right vibes such as bumblebees (Bombus spp.) and carpenter bees (Xylocopa spp.), vibrate their bodies to shake pollen from the anthers, or the parts of the stamens that hold the pollen.

Honeybees, on the other hand, are not able to do this.

Wind pollination occurs when a breeze shakes the blossoms to release pollen. However, in the world of pollen grains, Solanum pollen is sticky and heavy, so it takes a good breeze to release the grains from the anthers.

Pollen shed normally occurs from morning to late afternoon, with midday being the ideal time for release and transfer.

Sunny, warm weather and low humidity produce optimal conditions for pollination, but doing it by hand means you don’t have to wait for perfect conditions. Some pollen transfer still occurs in less than ideal weather.

Ripe, Red Goodness

To enjoy an abundant harvest of delicious ripe, red goodness, hand pollination ensures each blossom has the best chance to set fruit.

Shake like the wind or buzz like a bee, it’s easy to do and takes only minutes to significantly improve your yield – something every gardener yearns for!

Stunning climbers loaded with glorious, starry flowers and a heady fragrance, jasmine vines (Jasminum spp.) are also easy to propagate, so you can quickly enjoy more of the exact same plants that already do well in your garden.

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There are a few ways to propagate plants, but unfortunately, most popular garden varieties have poor seed set, or none at all.

So collecting seed from species or hybrids of Arabian (J. sambac), Italian (J. humile), pink (J. polyanthum), poet’s (J. officinale), Spanish (J. grandiflorum), Stephan (J. x stephanense), and winter (J. nudiflorum) types doesn’t usually give high-yielding results.

There are some species, like the Indian variety (J. auriculatum), that have an abundant seed set, and they germinate nicely in the right conditions.

But for the most part, rooting stem cuttings is the easiest and most successful reproduction method. Layering is another viable option.

Whether you choose to take cuttings, layering, or sowing seed, let’s look at the different methods to propagate jasmine vines now.

Here’s what we’ll cover:

Jasmine Basics

Highly showy climbing vines or shrubs, members of the Jasminum genus grace our gardens with profuse displays of starry or pinwheel-shaped flowers in shades of pink, white, or yellow.

Popular for ground covers, specimen plants, or twining up trellises, the majority of cultivars are fragrant, but not all of them.

Fast-growing and easily cultivated, most species and hybrids are hardy in USDA Zones 8 to 11, with a few suitable for cooler regions – which you can read about in our guide to 13 popular types of jasmine vines and shrubs.

In regions outside of their hardiness range, potted plants respond well to moving indoors to overwinter or they can be grown as houseplants year-round.

For overwintering or houseplant success, read our tips for growing jasmine indoors.

And while seed collection isn’t viable for most varieties, it’s still easy to reproduce your favorite plants!

Let’s have a look at how it’s done.

Air Layering

Air layering produces new roots from stems still attached to the parent plant.

It’s typically used when plants don’t respond well to propagation by taking stem cuttings, or if they don’t have low-growing stems that can be bent for mound layering.

For jasmine, air layering is a bit cumbersome because these plants do root well from cuttings, but there are times when it’s useful – such as with indoor plants or for shrub varieties that have stiffer canes.

Air layering should be done in spring or fall, and you’ll need the following:

• A clean, sharp knife
• Rooting hormone powder
• Sphagnum moss
• A 6-by-6-inch square of clear plastic
• Weatherproof adhesive tape or foam-wrapped gardeners wire

Ground coconut coir or other types of peat will do in a pinch, but they don’t hold water nearly as well as sphagnum moss.

Fertilome Floral Peat Moss

Sphagnum moss is available in an eight-quart (dry) bag at Nature Hills Nursery.

Air layering starts by choosing straight – not twining – and healthy, semi-ripe stems that are one to two years old.

First, create a two-inch square of sphagnum moss and soak it in water for 20 to 30 minutes to get it thoroughly saturated.

Using a sterile, sharp knife, clean a one-foot stem section by removing side shoots and foliage.

Wound the stem by making two shallow cuts about one inch apart, ringing the stem.

Gently scrape away the layer of top bark between the two rings, taking care to avoid cutting deeply.

Sprinkle the wet moss liberally with rooting hormone powder.

Dress the wounded section, wrapping the moss around the stem.

Wrap the moss dressing tightly with plastic and seal the bottom end with weatherproof tape or foamy garden wire. Seal the top end as well.

Leave the wrapping in place for several months, opening it monthly to check for rooting, which can take anywhere from three to six months. When checking for roots, water the moss if needed.

Once the new roots are visible and growing through the moss, remove the plastic wrap for good.

Use clean, sharp garden shears to free stems from the parent plant, cutting slightly below the rooted wound.

Pot up or plant out newly rooted sections as outlined in our guide to planting and growing jasmine.

Mound Layering

One of the easiest ways to propagate plants, mound-layered shoots also remain attached to the parent plant while forming new roots.

And, like air layering, this method can also take several months while you wait for new roots to form.

On their own, jasmine plants self-layer readily, forming new roots where stems reach down and rest on the soil, so they react well to layering with soil when this is done intentionally by the gardener.

Mound layering is best suited for shrubs or vines with pliable stems, ones that can easily be bent down to the ground or to a small pot of soil without breaking.

Mound layer in spring or autumn and use supple, one- or two-year-old shoots.

Select a spot where the stem easily touches down. Form a small hill or mound of compost-rich garden soil, then make a small trench in the top.

Remove foliage and side stems from a 12-inch section of stem on both sides of where it touches the soil.

Use a clean, sharp knife to gently scrape a one-inch ring around the stem, removing only the top bark.

Sprinkle the wound with rooting hormone.

Lay the wound in the trench and backfill with soil, anchoring the wounded section in place with tent pegs, bent heavy wire, or a rock.

Ensure the mound gets watered with the mother plant and leave it in place for several months.

After three months have passed, start to check for rooting by removing the anchor and tugging gently on the stem’s tip.

If the wounded section moves easily, replace the anchor to continue rooting.

If it gives resistance, snip the host stem close to the newly rooted section, carefully dig out the root ball, and pot up or plant out.

Seed Stock

Despite the avalanche of online material claiming that jasmine vines produce a pair of thin, bean-like seedpods, they don’t!

The confusion arises because the popular and gorgeous false vine, star jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides), can develop long, skinny seedpods.

But true Jasminum species don’t develop bean-like pods – if they do produce fruit, it’s most likely a small, round or oval capsule of green, brick red, or dark purplish-black, located at the flower’s base and typically producing a single small seed.

As I mentioned, seed production for many popular varieties is spotty or non-existent, and cultivar seedlings may not be true to the parent plant.

But if your plants do fruit after flowering, harvest them in summer after the fruit dries.

Store seeds in a small envelope or container and keep them in a cool, dark drawer until you’re ready to plant.

To propagate seed, start indoors about six weeks before your last frost date.

Soak the seeds for 24 hours in a small dish of room-temperature water to accelerate germination.

Fill a tray, cell pack, or small pots with a starter soil blend and moisten the soil thoroughly.

Sow seeds lightly over the surface, cover with a quarter-inch of soil, and tamp down gently.

Cover trays or pots with a clear plastic lid, cloche, or plastic bag to retain warmth and moisture.

Place in a warm location – 70°F is ideal – in bright but indirect light.

Keep the soil moist during germination and remove covers once seeds sprout, in about four to six weeks.

After seedlings have at least two sets of true leaves and are six inches tall – about six weeks after sprouting – transplant out into the garden or pot into containers.

Stem Cuttings

Stem cuttings are taken after flowering in spring or early summer and provide the fastest and most reliable reproduction method.

Choose strong, healthy, semi-ripe stems from shrubs or vines. Take cuttings about four to six inches in length, cutting just below a leaf node with clean, sharp scissors or garden shears.

Fill small, four-inch pots with a 50:50 mix of humus-rich potting soil and landscape sand, then water until the soil is thoroughly moistened.

Gently scrape away the surface bark from about half of the lower two inches. Dip the cut end of the stems into rooting hormone powder and shake gently to remove excess dust.

Use a pencil to poke planting holes two to three inches deep in the soil, then insert stems and firm the soil to keep them in place.

Keep your pots in a bright, warm location of about 70 to 75°F, out of direct sunlight. Maintain consistently moist, but not soggy, soil.

Roots should develop in four to six weeks. After four weeks, test for rooting by giving the cuttings a gentle tug.

If they resist, they’ve rooted and are ready for transplanting. If they move easily, they need more time.

After rooting, transplant out into the garden or pot up into containers.

Volumes of Vines

With their fast growth, charming flowers, and sweet perfume, there’s always room for more jasmine plants!

Air layering is a good option to reproduce indoor plants or those with stiff canes.

And easy methods for outdoor plants include mound layering and rooting stem cuttings from semi-ripe wood.

Or you can reproduce jasmine by sowing seeds as well – if you’re lucky enough to have plants that bear fruit.

Whichever method you choose, adding more jasmine plants is a great way to add a tropical touch to your garden!

And for more jasmine know-how, be sure to read these guides next:

Growing okra at home is a great way to add a low maintenance, unique vegetable to your summer garden.

But the first step in learning how to grow okra successfully is understanding what it needs to thrive.

In this guide you’ll find all the details you need, including water, light, soil, and fertilizer requirements, plus extra tips on pests, pruning, harvesting, and more.

Quick Okra Care Overview

Scientific name:	Abelmoschus esculentus
Classification:	Vegetable
Common names:	Okra, Lady Finger, Gumbo
Hardiness:	Zones 10-12
Temperature:	70-85°F (21-29.4°C)
Flowers:	White to yellow, blooms summer-fall
Light:	Full sun
Water:	Allow soil to dry between waterings, do not overwater
Humidity:	Average
Fertilizer:	Balanced organic liquid or granular fertilizer, once a month spring-summer
Soil:	Well-draining, fertile, loamy
Common pests:	Aphids, root knot nematodes, flea beetles

Information About Okra

Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus) is a member of the Malvaceae family that also includes cotton, holly hocks, and hibiscus. It’s an easy to grow warm weather vegetable originally from Africa.

It has a single main stem, thin branches, and large leaves. The plants range in size from 3-8’ tall, and produce edible seed pods from either yellow or white flowers that are similar in appearance to a hibiscus.

The entire plant, including the pods on many varieties, is covered with small, spiny hairs that can cause skin irritation.

The pods are edible when tender and young, and traditionally used for thickening stews or gumbos, earning it the nickname ‘Gumbo’.

Different Types Of Okra

There are many different varieties of okra to choose from. They are typically green or red, and range in overall size and days to maturity.

Many gardeners opt for a spineless variety, which feature pods without the spiky hairs. Thankfully no matter which type you choose, they can all be cared for in the same way.

• Clemson Spineless – The flavorful pods on this 4’ variety have no spikes and mature in 60 days.

• Burgundy – This deep red variety averages about 4’ tall and is known for being an abundant producer after about 60 days.

• Jambalaya – This compact variety is great for northern climates and produces green, flavorful pods in just 50 days.

• Cajun Jewel – A dwarf okra plant averaging 2.5 – 4’ tall that matures in just 50-55 days, making it ideal for containers and shorter growing zones.

Hardiness

Okra is a perennial vegetable that will grow year around in warm climates where there are no frosts or freezes.

It’s hardy year-round in zones 10-12 where the winters are mild, however it’s grown as an annual in most regions.

How Does Okra Grow?

Edible okra pods grow from the fairly large self-pollinating flowers that begin to appear in mid-summer.

The blossoms have both male and female parts and will produce pods without the assistance of pollinators in 3-4 days, as long as growing conditions are ideal.

How To Grow Okra

Before we get into the specific care needs, first let’s chat about where and when to grow okra. Choose the right time and location to help your plants produce at their very best.

Where To Grow Okra

Okra grows best in a location that gets plenty of direct sun. They do great either in the ground or in large containers that have good drainage.

Some varieties can get very tall. So choose a space or a pot that can accommodate the mature size without it becoming confined or crowding neighboring plants.

When To Plant Okra

Okra is a heat and sun loving plant. It will not grow in temperatures less than 60°F (15.5°C), so don’t try to plant it early.

Instead, wait until all chance of frost has passed in the spring and the soil temperature is about 65°F (18°C) or above. You can check that with a probe thermometer.

If you live in a cool climate, start okra indoors 2-4 weeks before the last frost. Choose a biodegradable pot that will allow you to plant them directly without disturbing the delicate taproots.

Okra Plant Care & Growing Instructions

Now that you know where and when to plant it, it’s time to talk about how to grow okra at home. The care tips here will help you create an ideal growing environment for them to thrive.

Sunlight

Okra needs full, direct sunlight to grow its best. Choose an area in the garden that will receive as much sun as possible throughout the day, uninhibited by shade.

As they grow tall, okra plants can start to cast shadows over each other. So space them according to the anticipated final size. Too much shade will reduce flowering, as well as pod production and growth.

Water

Okra is one of the more drought tolerant vegetables. It doesn’t like wet feet and can handle some periods of dryness.

But too little water can lead to wilting and stunted growth, especially when the plant begins producing flowers and pods. Provide 1” weekly, then let it dry out slightly between drinks.

Temperature

Heat is your friend when growing okra. It prefers temperatures in the range of 70-85°F (21-29.4°C).

The plants can even tolerate extreme highs of 100°F (37.7°C), but extended hot periods will require more frequent water.

Anything cooler than 60°F (15.5°C) can stunt or stall growth, and any type of frosts or freezes will quickly kill the plant.

Fertilizer

Abelmoschus esculentus is not a heavy feeder, but it benefits from the occasional application of fertilizer throughout the growing season.

Choose balanced, organic fertilizers in either granular or liquid forms. Apply slow-release granules once in the spring and summer, or liquids up to once a month.

Compost tea and fish emulsion are both good natural liquid options, or you can use organic flowering vegetable granules.

Soil

Okra isn’t too picky about soil. But the ideal blend is well-draining, loamy, and fertile, with a pH ranging between 6.0-8.0, which you can test with a probe gauge.

Amend garden soil with well-aged manure or compost at planting time to improve nutrient values and drainage, and get your plants off to a right start.

Pruning

There’s no real need to prune okra, especially if you’re growing it as an annual. But a few trims throughout the season makes harvesting easier.

Always use sterile, sharp pruners and wear long-sleeves and gloves to protect your skin from the prickly plant.

Okra pods develop at the bottom first, then steadily move up the plant. Cut back the top when the plant reaches 5-6’ tall to keep pods within easy reach and to encourage bushier growth.

At the end of the summer, prune back the top 2’ of leaves to re-invigorate it and encourage a final crop to form.

Pest Control Tips

Okra is not prone to many pest problems, but they can happen. Aphids, root knot nematodes, and flea beetles are a few of the most common ones.

Sharp blasts of water, beneficial insects, neem oil, and insecticidal soap are all effective measures against aphids and small bugs. I make my own spray by mixing 1 teaspoon of gentle liquid soap with 1 liter of water.

Root knot nematodes can cause swollen roots and stunted growth. There are measures you can take, such as heating or increasing organic matter in the soil to reduce their numbers, but only before planting.

Disease Control Tips

Healthy okra plants are usually fairly problem free, but they can fall victim to downy mildew and fusarium wilt.

Mildew will appear as white spots or patches on the leaves. Water at the base of the plant, maintain good airflow, and apply organic fungicide to prevent or stop it from spreading.

Wilt is a soil borne disease that will eventually kill the plant. Affected plants should be removed and destroyed (not in your compost bin), to prevent it from spreading through the garden.

Tips For Harvesting Okra

The best time to harvest is when the pods are young and tender, ideally between 2-4” long. They will become stringy and tough if you let them grow much larger.

Use sharp, sterile micro snips or precision pruners to clip the okra off the stem just above the pod cap.

Okra is a plant that benefits from continual harvesting. The more you pick, the more it will produce. They develop in as little as 2-3 days after flowers appear, so check back frequently.

Related Post: Easy Baked Okra Fries Recipe (Oven Or Air-Fryer)

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Okra is typically fairly easy to grow, but no plant is completely problem free. If you run into one of these more common issues, my tips below can help you manage it.

Yellow Leaves

Yellowing okra leaves can be caused by watering inconsistencies, disease, pests, and weather fluctuations.

They’re drought tolerant, but will suffer from either extreme dryness or wetness.

Instead, aim to water deeply 1” per week and allow them to dry just a little between drinks. A moisture gauge can help you if you have trouble.

Treat pests as you see them and look for signs of disease. Providing protection from cool dips or extreme heat can help your okra tolerate dramatic temperature changes without major consequences.

Slow Growing Okra Plant

The most common cause for a slow growing okra plant is the temperature. It will not grow well in anything below 60°F (15°C), and really prefers something warmer.

It may also be a matter of patience. Okra is slow to grow at the beginning of the season, and takes off toward mid to late summer when the heat kicks in.

Wilting Leaves

Wilting leaves on your okra plant are likely caused by fusarium wilt, overwatering, or drought. This plant doesn’t tolerate wet feet or extended periods of bone-dry soil.

If half the plant is wilting and yellowing, you may be dealing with disease. Dig up and destroy the plant before it can spread to your other vegetables.

Brown Leaves

Brown leaves, spots, or tips are usually caused by disease, improper watering, nutrient deficiencies, or cool weather.

Wait to plant until nighttime temperatures stay above 60°F(15°C) and protect plants with row covers if unexpected cool weather occurs.

Amend soil with plenty of compost, and water regularly so the soil is saturated but not soggy, then allow it to dry.

FAQs

Here I’ve answered some of the most commonly asked questions about growing okra. If yours isn’t listed, please add it to the comments section below.

Is okra easy to grow?

Okra is easy to grow because it tolerates mild drought and poor soils, as long as it has plenty of sun and temperatures higher than 70°F (21°C).

How long does it take for okra to grow?

How long it takes okra to grow varies depending on the type, but most varieties average between 50-65 days to reach maturity and be ready to harvest.

Does okra come back every year?

Okra is a perennial that can come back every year in regions that have mild, warm, frost-free winters, such as in growing zones 10-12.

What is the secret to growing okra?

The secret to growing okra is proper planting time and location. Wait until temperatures are higher than 60°F(15°C) at night, and plant it in fertile, neutral soil where it will receive plenty of direct sun.

Do okra plants need support?

No, okra plants do not need a cage, trellis, stake, or any other kind of support to grow. If yours becomes tall and leggy, then cut back the top to encourage bushier more compact growth.

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More About Vegetable Gardening

Share your tips for growing okra in the comments section below.

Peaches (Prunus persica) are one of my favorite fruits.

That first bite of sweet liquid sunshine transports me to comforting childhood memories of summer vacations and picnics at the beach.

I wait all year in anticipation of the first peach of the season, warm and juicy, freshly picked from my own tree.

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If you’re not growing your own peaches, you’re missing out. And if you’re wondering if you can grow a peach tree in a container, the answer is yes!

This method helps to overcome common obstacles to growing your own fruit, like a lack of space.

Containers can be portable, so you can place your peach in a nice sunny spot, then move it into a sheltered area seasonally or in bad weather.

Most peach trees are self-fertile, which means they don’t need a mate to pollinate in order to produce fruit. So, you can try growing just one and you’ll still have lovely fresh peaches.

Peach trees are sun worshippers, so as long as you have a sunny balcony, patio, or courtyard, you can grow peaches in a container!

I’ve got my own peach tree, and a few years of experience to share, so if you want to learn more, you’ll like this article.

I’ll introduce you to some different cultivars and walk you through supplies and steps for planting and care.

Ready to get started? Peachy. Let’s go!

Best Peach Cultivars for Containers

Dwarf cultivars are the best kind of peach trees to grow in containers. Some varieties are bred specifically for container growing, which is very helpful.

They will often be referred to as “patio peaches.”

There are lots of different dwarf peach varieties to choose from, and your local nurseries will likely carry varieties that are best suited to your USDA Hardiness Zone. Read on for recommendations from our trusted affiliates as well.

Before I jump into some different cultivars, chill out while I explain one detail:

To successfully produce fruit, peach trees need something called chilling hours. That means, depending on the variety, they need a certain amount of cold weather each winter.

So, before you fall in love with one kind, make sure it’s suited for your Zone.

Now, if you’re looking for recommendations, I’ve highlighted some popular favorites below.

Bonanza

This party of a peach is noted for its productivity and vigor.

It shares bumper crops of red-blushed, yellow-fleshed, freestone peaches on a dense, six-foot shrubby base. If cared for kindly, you’ll think you’ve struck gold!

Its fruit will be ready for harvest in late spring or early summer, about three months after flaunting its pale pink flowers.

‘Bonanza’

This cultivar typically requires 400 chilling hours and is suited for Zones 5 to 9.

Find ‘Bonanza’ available at Planting Tree.

Bonfire

Talk about a focal point! This dreamy smokeshow is known for its unique foliage.

Like the flames of a beach bonfire, leaves emerge red in spring, turn a deep maroon through summer, then dance with shimmering copper highlights into fall.

‘Bonfire’ is capable of growing six feet tall. Its dark foliage strikes a sharp contrast with other pinks, purples, and reds in your garden or on your patio.

The ‘Bonfire’ isn’t all looks, though. It produces small but sweet clingstone fruits. And, it’s one of the hardiest dwarf varieties, suitable for Zones 5 to 9.

‘Bonfire’

If you’re having trouble finding a ‘Bonfire,’ visit Perfect Plants Nursery.

Empress

This small but mighty princess reigns in colder areas of the United States and Canada. She’s such a show-off! In the spring, she kicks off the royal procession with her adorable pink flowers.

After applause from adoring fans, the fruits begin to form, followed by a midsummer crop of luscious, rosy freestone peaches with juicy yellow flesh.

Topping out at a petite five feet tall, ‘Empress’ requires at least 850 hours per winter of sub-45-degree temperatures to trigger flower and fruit production. This makes her winter hardy to Zone 5.

Golden Glory

This cultivar lives up to its name, as a top performer with a sunny disposition.

This dwarf cultivar matures to five feet tall. It sports clusters of deep pink flowers, then produces freestone fruit that reflects golden yellow skin, gilded with a touch of pink.

The flesh is a juicy, yellow bite of sunshine.

‘Golden Glory’ is ideal for cold climates to Zone 6, requiring 750 chilling hours.

More dwarf varieties to check out:

• ‘Eldorado’
• ‘Flory’
• ‘Garden Gold’
• ‘Garden Lady’

• ‘Garden Sun’
• ‘Pix Zee’
• ‘Southern Flame’
• ‘Southern Sweet’

Choose a Pot

Choosing the style of a container is a very personal undertaking. I’ve hunted high and low for the perfect container for my ‘Empress,’ and finally decided to build one to suit.

It can be tempting to choose based solely on aesthetics, but for functionality in the garden you should consider other variables.

If you’re planning to move the tree into a sheltered indoor space for the winter, the pot should be portable and not too heavy. You may want to choose a material like plastic or fiberglass.

Check out new planters made from glass fiber reinforced concrete, like these from ePlanters. 

If you’re leaving it outside when temperatures drop below freezing, pick a pot that won’t crack in the cold.

Ceramic and even some kinds of plastic containers will spontaneously split when the thermometer plunges. Look for planters made from materials specified for cold weather.

Once you decide on the material, consider the size. There is no definitive measurement I can give you because it depends on the expected mature size of your tree.

Your baby peach tree should have ample room to grow, without crowding the roots. But it shouldn’t be too big if you plan to move it.

A good rule of thumb is to look for a planter that is at least twice the width and depth of the root ball.

You can always pot up as the tree grows. In fact, you should plan to repot every two to three years.

Your container should also have holes in the bottom for drainage.

If there aren’t any, find a different style. If you’re comfortable wielding power tools, you may be able to create some holes yourself.

Prepare the Potting Soil

Peaches do well with fertile, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil. Although the dirt in your home gardens might be healthy and nutrient-rich, it won’t be adequate for filling the peach pot.

Containers have special soil needs. Regular garden soil lacks sufficient aeration and will not offer proper water retention or drainage specific to meet these needs.

So it’s best to customize the mix you fill your container with.

According to Jeffrey Williamson of the Horticultural Sciences Department at the University of Florida, you can choose a commercial potting soil or whip up a mixture of one part sand, one part peat, and one part bark or perlite.

Professor Williamson might live a bit south of many of us, so I’ve got another mixture suggestion for you from the University of Massachusetts Extension, Center for Agriculture.

The experts there agree that commercial soil can be used, but it’s a good idea to amend it with peat and either vermiculite or perlite. Try a ratio of two parts topsoil, one part peat, and one part vermiculite or perlite.

The sustainability of peat is a hot topic of discussion, so if you’re looking for peat alternatives, you can try bark, wood fiber, or coconut coir.

If you’re not sure about mixing your own soil, take the prepared, commercial soil route.

Organic Potting Mix

I recommend a high-quality product like the organic potting mix from Perfect Plants Nursery.

Steps and Tips for Planting

So, you have your new peach tree, you’ve chosen your container, and you’ve purchased or mixed your soil. Now what? It’s time to plant!

Gather Your Supplies

Round up your tree, container, soil mixture, and potting tools. Before we go further, I want to discuss some additional supplies for you to consider.

Tab’s Tips:

A few years ago, I discovered mycorrhiza fungi. If you’re unfamiliar, it’s worth reading up on. It’s been a game changer for my transplanting success rate.

Mycorrhizal fungi normally colonize the root systems of healthy plants. Some new plants are lacking it, and chances are good that your new soil won’t have it. But sometimes you can find soil mixes that contain it.

If you find one, read the package carefully because these prepared mixes are often formulated specifically for certain plant types. Learn more in our guide about the benefits of using soil inoculants.

You can also buy mycorrhizae in crystallized or liquid form and add it when you’re planting. To me, it’s definitely worth the extra time and money.

Root Build 240

Check out Root Build 240 from Arbico Organics.

For bare root trees, I use Soil Moist Fines. This is a potassium-based polymer. You mix the granules into the soaking bucket, and it creates a gel that sticks to the roots, promoting moisture retention and reducing transplant shock.

Another suitable alternative, I recently stumbled on a combination Soil Moist product called Container Mix Plus, which contains mycorrhizae and is specifically designed for container planting. Bonus! I’ll definitely be trying this one out.

Soil Moist Container Mix Plus

It’s available from Arbico Organics.

As with all soil and transplant additives, be sure to read the instructions carefully before using them.

While it’s true that these helpers can improve our gardening success, if you choose the wrong product or use one incorrectly they can be ineffective, or even damage your plants.

Now that I’ve explained these tips, let’s take action.

Prep Your Tree for Planting

Begin by watering your peach tree well. If it’s still in its original nursery container, give it a good shower. If it’s a bare root, soak the roots in a bucket of water for about 30 minutes.

Prep Your Container

While your tree is soaking, there are a few optional things you can do:

1. Lay a piece of screen mesh over the holes in the bottom of the pot. This helps to retain the soil in the pot while still allowing water to drain out.

2. Add a layer of gravel or small stones to the bottom of the container. I’ve heard this step argued both ways. The rationale is that it promotes drainage. But according to the folks at the University of Illinois Extension, this step can actually do the opposite and cause root rot.

Who is correct? I’m not 100 percent sure, and I’ve done it both ways. I usually have a strong opinion on things like this, but in this case, do what you think is right.

Fill the bottom quarter or third of the pot with your soil mixture. This is when you might add mycorrhizae if you have it. Check the instructions for the product you’re using.

Plant Your Peach!

If it’s still in its nursery container, remove the tree and examine the roots. Loosen pot-bound roots.

Set your tree in the partially filled container of soil. Spread the roots out and carefully add soil, gently firming it as you go.

Water thoroughly.

Resist the temptation to immediately fertilize! Your new tree has just been subjected to some stress, and fertilizing right now may actually raise its stress level.

So, give your thirsty tree plenty of water and wait a few weeks to begin any fertilizing regime.

Add some mulch to give a finished look and hold in moisture, and you’re all done.

Congrats! You did it!

Care and Maintenance

Potted peach trees need a little TLC to keep them healthy and fruiting well. Watering, feeding, and mulching are all important steps in your routine.

Some peaches in containers also need annual pruning to keep them healthy and growing in a compact shape.

Let’s go over some of the basic requirements.

Watering

Peach trees need regular watering throughout the growing season, especially newly planted specimens in containers.

You’ll find that trees in containers dry out much faster than those in the ground. Daily watering is necessary, especially in the first growing season, and if the weather is dry and warm.

Be careful not to overwater while the fruit is ripening, though. Too much water, inconsistent watering, or even excessive wet weather can cause fruits to split.

Cooler weather generally slows plant growth and thus reduces the plant’s need for moisture, so go easy on your watering schedule during cool months.

Feeding

Ask 10 gardeners about their opinions on feeding, and you’ll likely get 10 different answers.

The cultivar you grow, your growing conditions, and which products you’re already familiar with will all influence your fertilizing protocol.

For general feeding, look for a complete and balanced fertilizer that contains nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) in balanced proportions.

There are many brands to choose from, but I’d suggest using something organic.

Remember: you will be eating the fruit from your precious tree. Whichever brand of fertilizer you choose, follow the application instructions on the package.

Personally, I do a late winter or early spring orchard spray on my fruit trees and shrubs. I do this to boost immunity, promote fruit growth, and help my fruiting plants resist disease.

I mix up a concoction of concentrated natural ingredients in my garden sprayer, selected based on a recipe for an orchard spray developed by farmers and orchard consultant Michael Phillips.

These include organic fish fertilizer, pure neem oil, beneficial microbes, liquid kelp, and blackstrap molasses, plus water.

The Holistic Orchard: Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way

You can read Phillips’s book for more details. It’s called “The Holistic Orchard: Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way,” and you can check it out at Chelsea Green Publishing.

I apply this spray a few times, spaced a few weeks apart, while the trees are still dormant. When the buds look ready to open, I stop spraying.

Mulching

My happy trees also receive a fresh layer of mulch at their base every spring. Try straw or hardwood chips.

I also like to use aged manure or compost as mulch in the spring. This helps the soil retain moisture while adding nutrients at the same time.

Pruning

Some natural dwarf varieties like ‘Bonanza’ might not require regular pruning because they are slow growers.

These peach trees should develop and maintain their natural shape with little or no training or pruning.

But others might become “leggy” in a container if they’re desperately reaching for sunlight. These branches might appear misshapen, long, and unusual-looking, and they should be trimmed back to force new branching.

Sometimes the top of the tree will grow disproportionately to the bottom of the tree. You might notice some leaf shedding and dieback. In this case, you can prune more heavily to rejuvenate your tree.

The best time to prune is late winter into early spring, during dormancy. You can perform light pruning in late July or August, but severe pruning at this time will weaken the tree.

Pruning trees is a broad topic with many variables to consider.

Lucky for you, your dwarf variety won’t need much because it will max out at a certain height. Most of your pruning will be tidying and shaping.

Cold Protection

Peach trees are fairly hardy, but their blossoms open early in spring, so they can be susceptible to frost damage.

If you see spring frost in the forecast, protect the buds by gently tossing a light cover over the top for the night.

If the pot is portable, move it into a sheltered spot until the risk of freezing temperatures has passed.

Let’s get back to chill hours for a minute. Chill hours are the minimum number of hours a fruit tree needs to be exposed to a certain range of temperatures in order to successfully develop fruit.

But this doesn’t mean your tree can survive extreme freezing winds and cold temperatures for months on end. If you live in an area where winters can be brutally cold, you’ll want to consider the following pieces of advice.

If you leave your container tree outside during the winter, keep in mind that the roots are more exposed when trees are planted above ground rather than below. Even with hardy varieties, you could risk some root damage if the temperature drops to extreme levels.

Consider moving the container into a sheltered spot, out of the wind. This could be a garden shed or uninsulated garage. You’ll still achieve the required number of chill hours, but you’ll protect the roots from bitter winds and wild storms.

If you don’t move your tree for the winter, consider adding some insulation around the container.

My potted peach sits exposed, out in the middle of my yard, since my container is built-in and it can’t be moved.

So, here in Zone 5, I use sheets of rigid foam insulation cut to size to form a barrier around my container.

Notice I said I wrap the container – that doesn’t mean I’m covering the whole tree!

It just means the container where the roots are nestled snug for the winter have some added protection. This forms a barrier against blustery winds and potential ice storms. It looks funny, but it works!

Learn more about preparing fruit trees for winter in our guide.

Pests and Disease

To avoid problems with pests and diseases, start by choosing the right cultivar for your Zone and growing conditions. Look for varieties that are resistant to common ailments in your area.

Some common diseases to look out for with peach trees are bacterial canker, brown rot, rust, and leaf curl.

You can avoid some of these with good ventilation and by using proper sanitation with your tools.

If you must treat plants, look for biological treatments and fungicides specific to your needs.

Common pests include leafrollers, fruit moths, scale, aphids, and stink bugs. Battle these with beneficial insects, and biological sprays like those made with Btk.

Choose other insecticides carefully.

Remember, your goal is to eat the fruit, so you don’t want to ingest unnecessary chemicals.

Preventative dormant sprays like I mentioned above, paired with proper care usually do the trick. Otherwise, treat only as needed.

Repotting

As your tree grows, it will eventually become root-bound in its container. Be proactive and repot it into a larger container every two or three years.

How can you tell your tree is becoming root-bound? You’ll notice a slowing or lack of vertical growth.

It might still produce leaves and even fruit, but don’t wait too long because this will begin to affect growth and production.

You might even see roots poking through the holes in the bottom of the pot.

Plan to repot your tree in late fall, early winter, or early spring. These are the best times because the tree is dormant, but the soil isn’t a frozen block of ice.

When you remove your tree from its container you’ll probably notice the roots are overgrown, or “root bound.” You can take this opportunity to not only refresh the soil, but also to trim the roots.

Cut up to 30 percent of the roots from the bottom and sides of the root ball. I use my hori hori tool, and sometimes a saw if the ball is especially dense.

Pay attention to long roots that have curled inside the pot and be sure to snip those off. Loosen the remaining roots and tease out some of the spent soil.

Reducing the size of the root ball may allow you to use the same pot. If the root ball has grown significantly and you aren’t able to reduce enough safely, pot up.

Choose a container that is slightly larger than the current one, refresh the soil, and follow the planting steps I mentioned earlier. Easy!

Containers Are Peachy Keen for Peach Trees

By now you should be feeling pretty confident about planting your own peach tree in a container.

I’ve covered some fun varieties to check out, and explained how to plant your tree. I’ve also suggested some places to find everything you need. It’s time to get peachy!

Are you a peach super fan, but short on space? Your sunny balcony or patio could be the perfect spot to try growing one of your own!

Or maybe you already have a dwarf peach? I’d love to know which variety you’re growing and if any of my tips came in handy. Drop a comment below.

And to learn more about peach trees, check out these guides next: