Category: Home & Garden

If you’re looking for a delicious way to enjoy fresh cucumbers in the heat of summer, look no further than Armenian cucumbers. These unique veggies thrive in hot climates and offer a delicious, refreshing taste that’s perfect for salads, pickles, and more. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to grow Armenian cucumbers.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Are Armenian cucumbers really cucumbers?

First cultivated in Armenia in the 15th century, Armenian cucumbers (also called yard-long cucumbers), despite their name and appearance, are not true cucumbers. They are actually a type of musk melon (Cucumis melo var. flexuosus) that belongs to the same family as cucumbers. However, they taste similar to cucumbers and have a similar internal structure, which is why they are commonly called and treated as cucumbers in culinary contexts.

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6 Tips for How to Grow Armenian Cucumbers

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1. Plant Armenian cucumbers at the right time

These plants are particularly well-suited for hot climates as they tolerate higher temperatures than most cucumber varieties. This makes them an excellent choice for gardeners in warmer regions who struggle to grow traditional cucumbers. Armenian cucumbers are one of only a handful of vegetables that can be planted through July in the low desert.

There are many varieties of Armenian cucumbers. Try a few different types to see which you prefer. My favorite variety is the painted serpent Armenian cucumber.

Before planting, prepare the soil by amending it with compost. 

Plant Armenian cucumber seeds when it is warm outside (consistent days above 65℉/18°C and 80℉/26°C are even better).

Plant 2-3 seeds ½ to 1″ (1-2cm) deep, about 1 foot (30cm) apart. When seeds are 3-4″ (75-100cm) tall, thin to 1 plant every foot (30cm).

Planting dates for the low desert of Arizona: 

Although you can plant transplants, Armenian cucumber seeds do best directly sown in the garden. Click here for Armenian cucumber seeds.

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2. Plant Armenian cucumbers in the best location

• Choose a location that gets at least 6-8 hours of sunlight. Afternoon shade is preferred but not required in hot summer climate areas.
• Armenian cucumbers are best grown on some sort of trellis to keep them off the ground. Trellised fruits will grow straighter. Armenian cucumbers love to vine and can easily take over a garden. If you are looking for vertical gardening ideas, read this post.

• Do not overcrowd plants. Crowded plants are more susceptible to pests and diseases like powdery mildew and squash bugs. Allow at least one foot (30cm) between plants for vertical gardening and 2-3 feet (60-90cm) if plants are left to sprawl.
• Rotate where you plant Armenian cucumbers. Do not plant in the same area as you previously planted other melons, squash, or cucumbers.
• Corn is a good companion plant for Armenian cucumbers, and they may climb the corn as they would a trellis.

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3. Caring for Armenian Cucumbers

While they do need consistent moisture, Armenian cucumbers are more drought-tolerant than common cucumber varieties. This makes them a good option for gardeners in areas with water restrictions or those looking for low-water-use plants.

Mulch the soil around Armenian cucumbers.

Armenian cucumbers have both male and female flowers. Male flowers will appear first and continue to bloom; about two weeks later, the first female flowers will appear. Both types of flowers are yellow. Male flowers will bloom and be visited by a pollinator to pass the pollen onto the female flower, then wither and fall off. Female flowers are bulbous, will bloom, and, if pollinated, develop into a fruit.

Blooms are numerous, and hand-pollination is usually not necessary. Encourage bees by planting oregano, basil, zinnias, and other flowering plants nearby.

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4. Prune Armenian cucumbers and remove suckers as needed

Cut off any yellowing or diseased leaves, as they can drain energy from the plant.

Pruning suckers is not necessary but may be helpful to control the size and spread of the vine and improve air circulation and sunlight exposure. Be careful to only prune side shoots and not the main vine itself. Here’s how:

• Locate the main vine of your Armenian cucumber plant. This is the thickest and longest vine that grows directly from the base of the plant.
• Find a side shoot growing from the base of a leaf stem.
• Follow it down to where it connects with the main vine.
• Cut the side shoot about 1/4 inch above the main vine. If a female blossom is present on the side shoot, cut just after that fruit, ensuring not to damage the main vine.

Prune some side shoots, but don’t remove all of them. Leaving a few shoots will help the plant maintain its structure and balance and also ensures there are plenty of male blossoms. I usually leave most of the side shoots in place. Pruning is an art, so don’t be too hard on yourself if you make mistakes.

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5. Harvesting tips for Armenian cucumbers

Armenian cucumbers are prolific producers, and if you keep harvesting them regularly, they will continue to produce throughout the season. This ensures you have a steady supply of fresh “cucumbers” all summer long.

• Some varieties can grow to 3 feet (90cm) long quickly. They are best picked between 12-18″ (30-45cm) long and 2 ½” (2.5cm) in diameter.
• Pick fruit early in the day and immerse it in a bowl filled with ice water to lengthen storage time.
• Cut off fruit from the vine, as pulling can damage the vine.
• Leaving fruit on the vine too long signals the plant to slow or stop production.
• Larger fruit has larger, more noticeable seeds.
• Larger fruit tastes more like a watermelon rind and less like a cucumber.

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6. Enjoy the harvest of Armenian cucumbers from your garden

Armenian cucumbers are known for their mild, slightly sweet flavor and lack of bitterness often found in other cucumber varieties. This makes them a great addition to a variety of dishes without overpowering the other flavors.

I love cutting up Armenian cucumbers and eating them fresh. They are so good! You’ll have enough, however, that you’ll need additional ways to use them. My favorite ways include eating them raw in salads and sandwiches and pickling them. They maintain their crunch when cooked and can be a delightful addition to stir-fries or grilled vegetable dishes.

• No need to peel; the skin on young Armenian cucumbers is thin and edible.
• Use as you would cucumbers in salad, dips, sushi, or sandwiches.
• Try grilling them in vegetable kabobs or puréeing in smoothies.
• Excellent with pork, fish, mint, oregano, dill, yogurt, and feta cheese.

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Low Desert Arizona garden in September

What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in September? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona. 

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

September! We’ve almost made it through the long hot summer. The good news – lots to plant this month in the garden. The bad news – the days are still hot. Even so, the mornings and evenings are beginning to cool off, reminding us why we love to live in Arizona!

Gardening in Arizona means there is something to plant or harvest year-round. Most vegetables can be grown in Arizona if they are planted at the right time, and for many vegetables, September is the right time. Prepare your Arizona garden in September for fall planting by amending it with compost and organic fertilizer.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Pests in the low desert Arizona garden in September

Unfortunately, the slightly cooler temperatures of September are inviting for pests. It is important to make efforts to prevent pests organically, but not all pests can be prevented. Be on the lookout this month for infestations in the garden. Read this article for organic pest control that really works. 

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Prune out large infestations, and spray off with water. Spray plants off with water regularly to prevent future infestations.

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If you decide to treat, here are a few choices: spray off with water or use BT. When the weather cools a bit, the caterpillars will have moved on. Prune severely infected branches. 

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What’s growing in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

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Which flowers are growing in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

September is a time of change in the annual flower bed. Clear out summer blooming annuals and amend beds well with compost. Once daytime temps are consistently below 100℉ (37.8°C) and nights cool down below 80°F (26.7°C) plant cool-season annuals from seed and transplants. Water newly-planted annuals each day until they show new growth and are established. 

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What’s happening with fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

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Fruit stores best on the tree. The longer the fruit stays on the tree, the sweeter the fruit becomes. Fruit will not ripen once picked. Ripe citrus fruit can be left on the tree for up to 6 months, depending on the variety.

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Want to learn more about growing pomegranates? This article will help. 

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What’s happening with herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in September?

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Arizona low desert garden in September to-do list:

• Prune summer-damaged perennial herbs back by about 1/3.
• Do not prune fruit trees this month. 
• Fertilize citrus trees, if you didn’t do it in late August. Water citrus deeply this month, before and after fertilizing. Skip fertilizing grapefruit this time, they require less fertilizer than other types of citrus trees.
• Once daytime temperatures are consistently below 90℉ remove shade cloth (if using).
• Check your watering system, and fix any leaks. I use the watering grids from Garden in Minutes. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100
• When daytime temperatures are below 100℉, begin to adjust the time between watering citrus and other fruit trees to around twice a month. Water deeply but not as often as in the summer months. 
• Clear out summer-blooming annuals and make room for cool-season flowers and annuals.
• Save seeds from zinnias and other summer flowers and vegetables.
• Find seed potatoes and begin the process of “chitting” them, so they will be ready to plant late this month or October. Learn more about how to grow potatoes in this article. 
• Order garlic so you are ready to plant it in October. Store it in the fridge until it’s time to plant. 
• Begin fertilizing roses again this month. Keep up with watering every few days until temperatures cool in October. Once temperatures are below 100℉, prune roses lightly to remove dead or diseased canes.
• Plant spring-flowering perennials this month.
• Plan your wildflower & winter flower garden.
• Refresh in-bed vermicomposting bins or start new bins when nighttime temperatures are consistently below 85°F.

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What to plant in the low desert of Arizona in September

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Before planting:

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Vegetables, herbs & fruit to plant in the low desert in September:

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

After September 15 (or when nighttime temps begin to drop)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

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Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors in September

(Click the link for seed sources.)

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Flowers to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in September:

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

After September 15 (or when nighttime temps begin to drop)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

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Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in September

(Click the link for seed sources.)

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Perpetual Flower Planting Calendar is available in my shop

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Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers

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Gardeners in warm regions rejoice! Although fussy to grow in cooler areas, eggplant thrives in warm weather. Learn how to grow eggplant, and add this beautiful fruit (yes, eggplant is a fruit) to your garden and table.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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8 Tips for How to Grow Eggplant

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1. Choose the best location for growing eggplant

Eggplant prefers a sunny location with well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter.

It’s important to rotate where you plant eggplant and other members of the nightshade family (such as potatoes and tomatoes) to help prevent and avoid soilborne pests and diseases.

If pest or disease has been an issue in the past, try growing eggplant in containers instead. Eggplant does well when grown in large containers. Choose a container that holds at least 5 gallons of soil (19 liters) and is at least 10 inches (25 cm) deep.

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2. Choose an eggplant type suited to your needs

Eggplant varieties differ in size, shape, color, and maturation time. 

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3. Start eggplant indoors or purchase transplants

Eggplant does best when planted outdoors from transplants rather than seeds. Purchase transplants or start seeds for eggplant indoors 6 – 8 weeks before the last spring frost or your planting date. Seeds sprout in 7 -14 days. Eggplant seeds last up to 4 years. Eggplant seeds are available on Seedsnow.com.

Because eggplant is sensitive to transplant shock, start seeds in larger 4-inch containers (I like this type from Amazon) and harden off plants before planting them in the garden.

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4. How to grow eggplant? Plant eggplant at the correct time

Eggplant prefers warm weather, so don’t plant it before temperatures have warmed in the spring. Transplant eggplant seedlings into the garden when the soil is at least 70℉/21°C (the best way to check your soil temperature is with a soil thermometer), with daytime temperatures at or above 70℉/21°C and nighttime temperatures above 50℉/10°C.  

In the low desert of Arizona:

Space plants 18-24 inches (45-61 cm) apart. If using square-foot gardening, allow 2-4 square feet for each plant, depending on the variety.

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5. Care for the plants throughout the season

• Give eggplant a steady moisture supply, but do not let the soil get soggy. The fruit will be small and bitter if the eggplant isn’t watered enough.
• Eggplant also needs food to produce well. Feed the plant occasionally with fish emulsion or compost tea.  

• Eggplant is self-fertile but benefits from pollination from bees. 
• Remove yellow or withered leaves and stake or trellis plants as needed.

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6. How to grow eggplant? Be on the lookout for pests

Growing eggplants can be a rewarding experience, but like any plant, they can be susceptible to pests and diseases. Here are some common issues you might encounter and organic, minimally-invasive methods for treatment:

• Aphids and Whiteflies: These tiny insects suck sap from the plant, causing leaves to wilt or yellow. Encourage beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings, which are natural predators.
• Flea Beetles: These small beetles chew small holes in the leaves. Using row covers early in the season can help protect young plants and diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled around the base of the plants to deter these pests.
• Striped Cucumber Beetle: These beetles can defoliate plants quickly. Handpicking is an effective method. Be vigilant and look for all stages of the pest.
• Hornworms: These large caterpillars can do significant damage to foliage and fruit. Handpicking and dropping them in soapy water is one of the most effective control methods. (My chickens love them!)
• Verticillium Wilt: This soil-borne fungus causes wilting and yellowing of leaves. To manage it, ensure good drainage, rotate crops, and remove and destroy affected plants.
• Blossom-End Rot: This disorder is caused by calcium deficiency and irregular watering, resulting in dark, sunken spots on the blossom end of the fruit. Water regularly and test your soil to see if calcium levels are low.

Remember, the best pest and disease prevention is a healthy plant. Regular watering, mulching, and feeding with compost or an organic fertilizer will go a long way in preventing these problems.

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7. Harvest eggplant at the right time

Small fruits have the best taste, and frequent harvesting encourages more production. Eggplant stems are brittle. To harvest, clip fruit with some stem attached. Here’s how to tell the best time to harvest eggplant:

Not Ready to Harvest	Ready to Harvest	Overripe
No thumb imprint visible when pressed	Thumb imprint disappears	Thumb imprint remains
	Bright, shiny skin; firm and heavy for size	Dull skin
	Can be harvested when at least half the size of mature fruit	Soft, wrinkled, brown spots
	Tender; best taste; small seeds	Large seeds; bitter; tough skin

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8. Don’t let eggplant harvests go to waste

It’s best to use eggplant within a day or two of harvest. Eggplant can be kept for a few days in a paper bag in a cool place. When storing eggplant, remove any bruised or damaged parts as these will spoil quickly. Eggplants should be firm and not overly ripe when you are ready to cook them – an over-ripe eggplant will turn mushy quickly once cooked.

If you need to store eggplant for longer periods of time, then it can be blanched and frozen. To prepare eggplant for freezing, cut into 1/2 inch (1.2 cm) slices or cubes and blanch in boiling water for about 3 minutes. Cool the eggplant quickly under cold water, drain off excess moisture, and pack into freezer bags. Label with the date of blanching before freezing and use within a few months of preparing.

To use your frozen eggplant, thaw it in the refrigerator overnight and use it as you would fresh eggplant. Frozen eggplant keeps its flavor very well, so it can be used in a variety of recipes without losing any of its sweetness or texture.

Naturally low in calories but high in fiber, eggplant can be grilled, fried, breaded, roasted, stewed, or sauteed. Eggplant is also an excellent meat substitute and an essential element in Italian cooking. There are several dishes where eggplant is the star – think eggplant parmesan or baba ghanoush. Try adding this versatile fruit to favorite recipes or adding it to omelets or as a pizza topping.

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Do you need some fun ideas for keeping kids busy and entertained on a walk? We’ve got 30 great nature walking games to help you do just that.

Whether you’re walking for pleasure, on the school run, or taking regular walks to run errands with the kids, having some fun games up your sleeve can make all the difference when it comes to keeping everyone happy.

The many benefits of outdoor play and walking with kids

We all know that outdoor play is brilliant for kids, and walking is no different.

• It’s an opportunity for physical activity and exercise in the fresh air.
• It’s a great way to get them off the screens and video games!
• Outdoor walks and outdoor play is one of the easiest ways to engage with nature.
• Spending time outdoors can reduce levels of stress and anxiety, and boost happiness.
• It’s low cost or completely free!

Inspiration for nature walks and games

Finding lots of good games and activities to keep the kids happy when playing or walking outdoors can sometimes feel a little daunting. That’s where *A Year of Nature Walks and Games comes in very handy.

This lively book is packed with 52 fun nature activities that are perfect for a family walk or an outdoor adventure. From spring scavenger hunts to summer park games, autumn nature science and winter walking games, there’s a whole year’s worth of good ideas to make your walks more exciting and less boring!

30 fun nature walking games

Here are 30 of our favourite walking games, trail games and walking activities to play with the kids. They’re suitable for kids of all ages, the whole family can join in, and they’re just as much fun for the adults.  You could try one of these easy games to play while walking on your next family hike or walking route, whenever you need to persuade the kids to go for a walk, or as a boredom-buster when little legs get tired on a long walk.

Spot the colour

Each player chooses a colour. During the walk, they need to spot things in that colour and get a point for each item they spot. The winner is the player with the most points at the end of the walk. Tip: some colours are easier than others!

20 questions

One player thinks of a thing – it can be an object, living thing, or place. They tell everyone which category the thing belongs to, then players take it in turns to ask a question about the thing. The only answers allowed are ‘Yes’ or ‘No.  If a player guesses what the thing is in twenty questions or less, they choose the next thing. If nobody gets it right after twenty questions, the ‘thing’ is revealed and players choose who goes next.

Journey stick walk

Take some pieces of string with you on your walk.  Each child finds a stick at the start of the walk, then collects fallen nature treasures and ties them to the stick with the string.  We’ve got a full guide to this great activity in our journey sticks article.

Catch

Taking a ball with you on your walk is an easy way to keep kids interested with a fun game  Players throw it to each other as they walk, keeping count until the ball is dropped.  Then try to beat your score.

Count the thing

Players choose an item to count during the walk.  They can work in teams or individually, and the winner is the team or player with the highest score at the end of your walk. You can make this really easy for young children (for example, road signs) or more tricky (for example, yellow cars).

I went to the shop

The first player starts by saying ‘I went to the shop and I bought..’ then adds an item. The next player repeats what player one said, and adds another item on the end. Keep going until someone gets the list of items wrong, then you can start again.

Count your steps

How long can you keep count of your steps on a walk? Children don’t have to count for the whole walk; they could limit it to their street, for example.  You could compare their total with a step counter on a smartphone to see how accurate it is.

Follow the leader

The player who is the leader is in charge of the actions, and everyone else has to copy them.  For example, they can hop, wave, make a sound, skip, walk in single file, or do a silly walk.  Each player gets to take a turn as the new leader during the walk.

Scavenger hunt

As well as keeping kids busy, a nature scavenger hunt really helps them to develop their observation skills. You can find one online, or make up your own with the kids before you head out for your walk.

Make up a story

Work together to create a group story.  Take it in turns to add a part of the story as you walk.  Try to cover the place and time where the story is set, main characters, and their purpose – but anything goes!

I Spy

One player is the spy, and says ‘I spy with my little eye, something beginning with (first letter of the thing)’. Everyone else has to guess what the thing is. The player who guesses correctly becomes the next spy.

Group Counting

Players take it in turns to count up from 1 to 10. The turns have to be random, and can’t be agreed before the game starts. If more than one player says the same number at the same time, the game goes back to 1 and starts again. You can increase the highest number if the game gets too easy for older kids, or keep it simple for younger kids.

Fill a tiny box

Each child takes a small box (for example, a gift box or an empty matchbox) on the walk.  During the walk, they have to go on a nature treasure hunt and fill their box with small items such as a petal, a leaf, a twig.  Make sure they protect nature by only collecting fallen items, and not picking things from plants or trees.

Coin toss walk

This is a good walking game if you don’t mind where you end up!  Take a coin on your walk, and toss it every time you get to a corner or want to change direction.  Heads means you turn left, tails means you turn right.

Name that tune

This simple game is super-easy and can last for ages.  Players take it in turns to hum a tune, and everyone else has to guess what it is. The player who guesses right is the next person to hum a tune. The game works best if you stick to their favourite songs.

Hide and seek

A classic game, and ideal if you’re going to make stops during your walk.  One player hides while everyone else counts to twenty, then everyone tries to find them.  Make sure you agree with children how far they can go before you start.

Bird bingo

Make list of common birds where you live (you can look this up online). Then see how many you can spot during your walk.  You could also talk about why you think each bird is where you saw it – was it feeding, building a nest, singing, or looking after young? If you own a pair of binoculars they will come in handy for this game.

Sound detective

During your walk, players have to listen out for sounds and make a list of them.  What happens when they start to listen carefully – do they hear things they never noticed before?

Who Am I?

This is similar to 20 questions.  A player chooses somebody to ‘be’, and the rest of the players have to ask questions to guess who they are.  Only ‘Yes’ or ‘No’ answers are allowed.

Follow a map route

Before you start your walk, take a look at the route on a map or a smartphone mapping app.  Children then have to follow the map to your destination.

Bug hunt

See how many different insects you can find on your walk. You could take a magnifying glass and a bug ID chart to help you.

Geocaching

You need the geocaching app on a smartphone for this activity. The app will show you the locations of geocaches in your area, and you then have to go on a walk to find the ‘treasure’.

Alphabet race

The aim is to be the first to spot something that starts with the letter ‘A’, then the letter ‘B’ and so on. The winner is the player who spots the most letters.

What’s in my pocket?

Before going for your walk, an adult puts something small in their pocket.  During the walk, kids have to guess what it is. Keep the item easy for younger children – for example, a favourite toy – or a bit more obscure for older children.

Sensory walk

Players have to really tune into their senses for this one.  As you walk, encourage them to focus on one sense at a time, paying attention to what they can see, hear, touch or smell. You could make a list of things, or try the same thing on two different walks and compare.

Make up a poem

Players take it in turns to make up lines of a poem.  Trying to make each line rhyme will make things more fun and probably a bit silly!

Tree bingo

How many different trees can you spot on your walk?  You could find a tree identification guide that shows different types of leaves to help you; these are easy to find online.

A to Z game

Pick a theme, for example, different types of animals. Starting with ‘A’, players have to think of something that begins with that letter, for example, ‘Antelope’. Carry on through the alphabet to ‘Z’. Each player can pass on a letter once.

Nature photographer

Take a camera or smartphone with you on your walk.  Kids can become nature photographers, looking out for things like birds, insects, flowers, textures or colours. You could create a gallery of your photos when you get home.

Intervals walking game

This is a fun take on interval training.  Kids have to carry out a sequence of moves as you walk, such as running, hopping, crab walking, skipping, or speed walking.  You can use a stopwatch to give each move a set amount of time if you like.

More fantastic resources for outdoor play and walking games

Head this way for even more great ideas for helping kids explore nature:

This *brilliant book is full of nature activities, including nature crafts, science experiments, gardening projects and brilliant games to play outdoors.

Seasonal bucket lists for outdoor play

We’ve got a free printable list of outdoor activities for spring, summer, autumn and winter.  Stick them on the fridge for instant inspiration!

Great gifts for outdoorsy kids

If you’d like to buy a gift that encourages children to explore nature, this list of gifts for outdoorsy kids has lots of suggestions.

Free printable nature play ideas

A collection of easy, low-cost ways to help kids explore nature. Grab the free printable here.

Nature jokes

How about adding some giggles to your nature walk? We’ve got lots of family-friendly nature jokes for you to enjoy:

You’ll also find lots of great ideas in this article on nature games.

Pin for later: 30 nature walking games and fun trail activities

Canning corn is a wonderful way to enjoy the summer’s bounty all year round. In this article, I’ll show you exactly how to do it in a few easy steps.

If you have an overabundance of corn from your garden, or find a great deal at the grocery store or farmer’s market, canning it is one of the best ways to preserve it before it goes bad.

Canned corn is not only easy and convenient to use in your favorite recipes throughout the year, it makes for a classic and delicious side dish to any meal.

Follow along below as I show you all you need to know about how to can corn, including tons of helpful tips for success.

Best Types Of Corn For Canning

The best corn to use for canning are ears that are fresh, crisp, and brightly colored. The kernels should be plump and full.

Some good varieties include Bodacious and Incredible for their extra sweetness, and bicolor ones like Temptation, Delectable, or Providence.

You could even use white varieties like Silver King, Silver Princess, or Whiteout if you want.

Preparing Corn For Canning

Preparing your corn for canning is simple. First shuck the cobs and discard the husks.

Rinse them off to remove any remaining silk, gently scrubbing with a vegetable brush if necessary.

Then use a sharp knife to cut the kernels off the cob. A corn peeler or stripping tool can make this job faster and easier.

Also be sure to wash and sterilize your jars and keep them hot until you’re ready to pack them.

How To Keep Corn From Turning Brown When Canning

Corn turns brown while canning when the heat caramelizes the natural sugars, but you can prevent it from happening.

But don’t worry, if some of yours turn brown, although it’s not pretty, it’s safe to eat and generally tastes just fine.

Here are a few ways to prevent corn from turning brown when canning:

• Make sure the ears are room temperature before starting, which allows the sugar to convert to starch.
• Always use mature/ripe corn.
• Watch the heat, and only process the jars as long as you need to.

Methods For Canning Corn

There are two methods you can use to fill your jars of corn for canning, either hot or raw packing.

The one you choose usually comes down to personal preference. Below I’ll talk about the pros and cons of each.

Hot Packing

Hot packing is when you flash-cook the corn for 2 minutes in boiling water before placing it in the jars.

This can help to preserve the color, texture, and flavor better. The only drawback is the extra step and time it takes.

Raw Packing

Raw packing is when you fill your jars with uncooked corn kernels. The benefit of this method is that it’s easy and quick to do.

The drawback is that the kernels tend to float, which can make it harder to pack the jars. They can also lose some of their color and flavor, and tend to be a bit softer.

Related Post: How To Freeze Corn On Or Off The Cob

Pressure Canning Canned Corn

Since corn is a low-acidic food, you must use a pressure canner to process the jars.

A boiling water bath cannot get hot enough to kill all of the harmful pathogens, and is not safe to use for canning corn.

Once your pressure canner is primed, process the jars for 55 minutes at 11 PSI on a dial gauge, or 10 PSI for a weighted gauge, (adjust for altitude if necessary).

Tools & Equipment Needed

Below is a list of items you’ll need. Gather everything before you start to make the process easier. You can see my full list of tools and supplies here.

How To Store Canned Corn

It’s important to store your canned corn in a cool, dry, and dark place, like a pantry or cupboard.

Before storing the jars, check each lid to make sure it has a tight seal. If any of them didn’t seal, put those jars into the fridge and use them within a week.

Also, write the date and name on each using dissolvable labels or a permanent marker so you know when they’ll expire.

How Long Does Canned Corn Last?

Canned corn has a shelf life of about one year, if stored correctly. Always check that the lids are still tightly sealed before using them.

Once you open the jars, keep them in your refrigerator and eat them within 3-4 days.

FAQs

Below I have answered some of the most common questions about canning corn.

Can you can corn without a pressure canner?

No, you cannot safely can corn without a pressure canner, due to its low acidity. A boiling water bath will not get hot enough to kill harmful pathogens, like botulism.

Can I add sugar when canning corn?

You can add sugar when canning corn to enhance the flavor, although it is not required. If you’d like to, you can add ½ teaspoon per pint jar.

What is the best method for canning corn?

The best method for canning corn is to either raw or hot pack the jars, then use a pressure canner to process them.

Can fresh corn be canned?

Yes, fresh corn can be canned – in fact it’s ideal. Straight out of the garden is best, but you can use fresh cobs from the farmer’s market or grocery store instead.

Do you have to cook corn before canning?

No, you do not have to cook corn before canning it, you can simply pack the jars with raw kernels.

Can you can frozen corn?

Yes, you can can frozen corn, but be sure to thaw it to room temperature first, or it could turn brown.

Can I can corn on cob?

No, you cannot can corn on the cob because the cob is too dense for the heat to evenly penetrate. The best and safest method is to remove the kernels and discard the cob before canning.

If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!

Learn more about my Vertical Vegetables book here.

More Food Canning Posts

Share your tips for canning corn in the comments section below.

Recipe & Instructions

Instead, propagation is most often done through stem cuttings or the division of offsets, also known as pups, which can flower as soon as the next growing season.

The pups don’t have to be removed. Left in place, they grow into handsome clumps with multiple flower stems.

But to double your pleasure, or to thin out plants, you can remove and replant some of the pups to quickly build your stock.

You can read more about the ins and outs of yucca cultivation in our guide.

Does your garden or home need a few more flowering succulents? Then let’s cut to the chase on how to separate and repot yucca offshoots!

Here’s what you’ll find ahead:

When to Separate Offshoots

Most species of yucca are cold hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 11.

For outdoor specimens, that makes spring the best time to separate offshoots for gardeners in temperate areas.

Spring division allows a full growing season for strong root development, giving new plants the best chances of survival in cold winter temperatures.

In areas with mild winters and extreme summer heat, division is best done in early fall.

Intense summer temperatures coupled with low water levels can make it difficult for new plants to become established. And although growth slows in fall and winter, they’ll fare better rooting in cooler temperatures with mild rains.

Dividing pups from indoor container plants can be done at any time from spring to fall.

Separating pups is easiest when they’re young – the bigger the pups are, the bigger and harder the roots are.

However, offsets should have stems at least four inches long before removing them.

And don’t remove pups that look paler in color than the parent. Deep coloring shows that the pup is producing chlorophyll and is mature enough to survive on its own.

How to Divide Pups

For new plants to develop strong root systems, each pup needs a healthy section of attached taproot. These are thick and fleshy.

To remove pups from the parent, insert a clean, sharp gardening knife or spade between the two stems.

Push straight down, severing a small section of taproot from the parent.

Depending on the size of your yucca, the roots can be large and dense – you may need to use some force to cut through them cleanly.

Lift the offset and root section in one piece.

Plant bigger ones in beds, borders, rockeries, and large patio planters. Smaller ones can be potted up for the garden or indoor use.

Pot Them Up

To pot up offsets, choose containers with drainage holes – these succulents must have excellent drainage to avoid issues like root rot.

I like to add a two-inch layer of drainage material, such as broken pottery or pebbles, over the drainage holes to ensure the roots don’t sit in wet soil.

Fill containers with a succulent and cactus potting soil that contains plenty of grit for good drainage – or you can create your own succulent potting soil with our easy recipe.

Set the offset in place with the crown about one inch below the soil surface.

Backfill with soil and gently firm in place.

Water gently to settle and lightly moisten the soil.

Place containers in a full sun location.

Provide regular water for three months until the roots are well established. But take care to avoid overwatering and allow the top one or two inches of soil to dry out between applications.

Plant Them Out

Planting offsets out into garden beds is best done in spring.

Yuccas require a full sun location in well draining soil with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5 to 6.5.

Create a planting hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the root ball.

To regular garden soil, mix in a shovelful of compost or well-rotted manure to enrich the soil.

Although yuccas thrive in lean, poor soil, enriching their planting site helps to get transplants off to a strong start.

If needed, mix in a shovelful or two of grit to ensure the soil drains well. Use materials such as landscaping sand, pea gravel, or stone chips to improve drainage.

Place your offsets with the crown one inch below the soil line then backfill with soil and gently firm over the roots.

Water to settle the roots in place.

For their first growing season, provide regular watering of up to one inch per week until plants are established.

After they’re  established, reduce watering to one inch every two weeks, or a deep soak of two to four inches monthly.

We will have a plant sale this Saturday!

ADDRESS: Atmore Flea Market – 1815 Highway 21, 36502, Atmore, AL

TIME: Saturday, September 2nd from 8AM to 1PM

We have some lovely useful and edible plants in stock, some of which include:

Comfrey
Catawba
African Blue Basil
Giant Yellow Timber Bamboo
Pineapple Guava
Shell Ginger
Longevity Spinach
Mushroom Herb
Chaste Tree
Cranberry Hibiscus
Goji Berry
Cat Whiskers
Okinawa Spinach

…and more rare edible plants!

Plus, I will have some very rare yam bulbils for sale that you won’t want to miss.

Also, we give a $0.50 store credit per useable plant pot of one gallon size or larger, so recycle your pots for plants. We need more pots all the time – especially one-gallon pots!

See you there.

-David

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Here’s the produce tally board, as of mid-day yesterday:

1,563 lbs of produce, and 1,993 eggs.

Almost half the produce yields was watermelon. This is fine, because we’d all rather eat watermelon than vegetables.

When the fall roots come in things are really going to get exciting. I’m hoping we hit 2k!

We still have to harvest a few more pumpkins, all the sweet potatoes, all the yams, and all the cassava. Most of this will happen right before the first frost in November or so.

If we get some rain, I also would like to plant some daikons as a fall crop. It’s still a bit too hot and dry right now.

The pigs are getting fat, and they’ll also bring us some yield when we butcher them this winter.

What a blessing to be here on our own land! Thank you, Lord Jesus, for watching out for us.

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My name is Judy. I have been gardening for many years but with no formal training. I have learned a lot by trial and error. My husband and I moved to the Hampton Roads area of Virginia (Zone 7B) four years ago, to an existing house surrounded by woods but a yard bare of any trees or flowers. The soil is clay, poor and full of moles, and the local deer population is hungry, so I have had challenges to overcome. I am continually improving soil and editing plants that surprised me in the way they developed. Each year I have focused on expanding my garden into new areas. This year’s project was my hellstrip of sorts, the narrow strip of land between my driveway and the woods.

The phloxes (Phlox paniculata, Zones 5–8) are taking center stage. Supporting actors are the Echinacea ‘Sweet Sandia’ (Zones 4–9) and the blue Vitex angus-castus (Zones 6–9) tree.

Gaura lindheimeri ‘Gaudi Red’ (Zones 5–9) upstage the Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Garnet’, Zones 5–9) behind.

The planters are on our patio, which is nestled at the edge of the woods, providing us a place to escape from the intense Virginia afternoon heat and humidity. They showcase Mandevilla (Zones 9–11 or as an annual) with Caladium (Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb) and Begonia (Zones 8–11 or as an annual) at her feet, and lambs’ ears (Stachys byzantina, Zones 4–10) peeking around from behind.

I first saw balsam apple (Momordica balsamina) at Thomas Jefferson’s home, Monticello. It is an annual that I now grow from seed. In the fall it develops small yellow-orange fruits like tiny gourds that burst open when ripe to reveal their sticky, bright red seed. In the 1500s it was used medicinally to treat wounds. I love how it softens the metal railing.

I rescued this oriental lily (Lilium hybrid, Zones 5–9) several years ago from what I term “the dead and dying rack” at a big box store. It was worth the gamble, as was the Mandevilla in a previous photo.

Calla lilies are one of my favorites. This one is Zantedeschia ‘Garnet Glow’ (Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb).

The balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus, Zones 3–8) echo the colors of the Veronica spicata (Zones 3–8) while complementing the ‘Garnet’ Japanese maple behind.

My biggest challenge by far has been planting in the strip of land between the driveway and the woods. It is my personal hellstrip. The soil is poor, dry, and full of roots, stumps, driveway gravel and a layer of duff made mostly of slowly decomposing pine needles. This spring before beginning to add more plants to the area, I dug out five small tree stumps and sawed through many roots left from trees downed when the house was built. Plants here grow slowly and need lots of TLC to encourage them to flourish. The deer find many of the plants in this area delicious (even deer-resistant plants), so I have to be diligent about applying deer deterrent. The plants pictured here are mostly in their infancy, but I have high hopes that one day this will mature to a restful garden bed.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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A perennial evergreen, S. montana has a much longer season than its close cousin summer savory (S. hortensis) – which you can read all about here.

Low maintenance and easy to grow, it’s also a versatile performer in the kitchen – and year-round convenience is what gives S. montana its must-have status in my garden. A freshly picked sprig added to a simmering pot of beans or stew makes a cold winter’s day seem just a little bit warmer!

Let’s dig into the growing details so you can enjoy some yourself.

What Is Winter Savory?

An evergreen perennial, winter savory is a low-growing, semi-woody herb in the mint family, Lamiaceae, and is also commonly known as creeping, mountain, or Spanish savory.

Native to the temperate climates of the Mediterranean basin, it forms low growing and multi-branched mounds that grow 8 to 15 inches high, with a 12- to 24-inch spread.

The glossy, 1-inch leaves are dense, slender, slightly leathery, and highly aromatic, appearing opposite on the stems. Small, dainty flowers appear on terminal spikes throughout summer in colors of mauve, pink, and white.

Cold hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9, these plants go dormant in winter and can lose many of their mature leaves along the stem tips. But new growth quickly appears on the bare stems once longer days and warmer temperatures return.

But there are always plenty of small, year-old stems that retain their leaves throughout the year. These can be picked and enjoyed for winter cooking as needed.

The closely related summer species, S. hortensis, is a fast-growing annual, with a less intense and fresher flavor than S. montana.

Cultivation and History

Aptly named, savory comes from the from the old Latin root word sapor, which became the Old French savoure – for tasty or fragrant. The word za’atar, the name of the popular (and flavorful) Middle Eastern spice mix, also comes from the same root word.

S. montana has a deep, earthy flavor – peppery and piney with a piquant intensity – and has long been used as a seasoning.

Many antiquated texts speak of its use as a seasoning and for its healing properties. It was the Roman poet Virgil who recommended planting it near beehives, and in “The Complete Herbal,” Nicolas Culpeper favors it as a stimulant to “quicken the dull spirits.”

Introduced to Europe by the Romans, medieval walled gardens grew both the summer and winter species, and it was used to stuff meats and poultry.

The Germans discovered that fresh sprigs added to a cooking pot of beans made them easier to digest. Today, it’s still referred to as the “bean herb,” or Bohenkraut in German.

During the economic expansion of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, French and English garden designers of the day recommended planting this herb for its fragrance. This was an important component in the new “gardens of delight” that were popular with the nouveau riche.

Winter savory was introduced to the US by European colonists in the 1800s.

By Division

Root division is also an option, and it’s a good choice for aging container-grown plants that need to be rejuvenated.

In spring, remove plants from their containers and trim away about a third of any wrapped or bound roots.

Divide the root ball into thirds or quarters, ensuring that each section has a healthy piece of root and stems with green leaves attached.

Remove one-third of the top growth, and trim away any dead or damaged stems and leaves.

Replant in containers or directly into the garden. Learn more about dividing perennials here.

How to Grow

S. montana requires a full sun location.

This herb prefers soil with a neutral pH of 6.0-8.0 that is well-draining and moderately fertile.

Enrich the planting soil with a mix of 1/3 organic matter such as aged compost or well-rotted manure, and 1/3 coarse sand or grit to improve drainage.

Choose a site where plants can remain undisturbed, and prepare planting holes 8 to 10 inches apart, twice as wide and a bit deeper than the root balls.

Mix a little bone meal into the planting site to encourage strong, healthy root growth.

Set plants in place and backfill holes with the planting mix, gently firming the soil in place over the roots.

Water lightly and provide regular moisture until established. Once plants are settled, in 4 to 6 weeks, dry to moderate moisture levels are sufficient. Allow the soil to dry out between watering deeply bi-weekly.  For container plants, water when the top inch of soil is dry.

Apply a top dressing of organic matter like compost in spring but avoid liquid fertilizers – savory’s flavor is improved when grown in lean soil.

Trim in early spring before new growth emerges, removing last season’s spent seed heads – or approximately 1/3 of overall growth.

Plants are cold hardy to around 10°F. If temperatures in your region regularly dip to this mark, select a sheltered planting site and provide cold insulation during the winter months.

A thick, 4- to 5-inch-thick straw mulch spread over the crown and out to the drip line will help protect against freezing temperatures and drying winds. Remove the mulch in spring.

Older plants can become woody and benefit from regular pruning to encourage new growth and a full, bushy form.

Plants are short-lived and need to be replaced every 4-5 years in the garden, and every 2-4 years if grown in containers.

Indoors

To bring plants indoors for winter, provide a pot measuring at least 12 inches in diameter and with a similar depth.

Use a potting mix amended with 1/3 coarse sand and ensure the soil and pot drain freely.

Place plants in a cool, sunny window with at least 6 hours of light per day. Or, use a full spectrum grow light.

Water lightly when the top inch of soil is dry, and ensure plants are well-spaced in the pot with ample air circulation.

Harvest and Storage

As a perennial, leaves can be picked year-round, although the flavor is typically best during the summer.

Harvest sprigs in the morning, after the dew has dried – this is when their essential oils are most potent and flavorful.

Cut from mature stalks only, leaving at least half of the stalk intact for future growth.

Store the fresh sprigs in a small jar of water until you’re ready to use them, kept out of direct sunlight. Or, place them in the refrigerator where they will stay fresh for 10 to 14 days.

The flavor is best when it’s used fresh, but you can also dry your harvest for longer term storage.

To dry, bundle stems with kitchen twine and hang them in a cool, airy spot out of direct sunlight. Or, place the stems in your food dehydrator at its lowest setting, 95 to 115°F for 1 to 2 hours.

Don’t have a dehydrator? You can learn about the best models from our sister site, Foodal.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

In the kitchen, flavorful leaves can be used fresh or dried in numerous recipes, typically to season fish, game, meat, and poultry, as well as in soups, stews, and stuffing.

And it’s delicious added to herb or cheese breads – it’s what gives a spicy tang to Sue’s Savory Muffins, for example. You can find the recipe for these on our sister site, Foodal.

Add fresh sprigs when cooking legumes, like peas and beans, or cabbage, to add flavor and make them more digestible.

Fresh leaves add piquant flavor to compound butters, cooked grains, herbed cheeses, risotto, salads (chicken, green, and potato), salad dressings, vegetables, and vinegars.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Semi-woody herb, perennial	Tolerance:	Deer and rabbit resistant, drought, poor and rocky soil
Native to:	Mediterranean Basin and southwest Asia	Water Needs:	Low to moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	6-9	Maintenance:	Moderate
Season:	Evergreen	Soil Type:	Average to lean fertility
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	Neutral, 6.0-8.0
Time to Maturity:	90 days	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	12-15 inches	Companion Planting:	Beans, cabbage, onions, roses
Planting Depth:	Deep as root ball	Attracts:	Honey bees
Height:	12-15 inches	Family:	Lamiaceae
Spread:	12-24 inches	Genus:	Satureja
Pests & Diseases:	No serious pest or disease problems	Species:	montana

We list the 5 main reasons flowers might not appear when you expect them.

Let’s start problem-solving!

1. Timing

From the time you sowed seeds in the ground, you should expect them to germinate within seven to 10 days. About eight weeks (or 50-55 days) after that, you should start seeing flowers.

This is about halfway through the pumpkin’s 100-120 day growing time, depending on the variety.

Here’s a tip: the first flowers you see are male. The biggest visible difference between male and female flowers is that males don’t contain an ovary like females do. The ovary looks like a tiny lump just behind the flower.

The flowers unfold at dawn. In the next several hours, they open more and more until they are graceful golden basins at their peak of beauty.

These hours are critical for pollination, whether you’re depending on bees or pollinating the plant yourself.

The pollen on the male flower’s stamen must get transferred to the female flower’s stigma, covering the whole segmented head.

2. The Soil

If you aren’t seeing flowers even after more than 55 days, it’s possible that the soil your pumpkins are growing in has too much nitrogen, which contributes to lovely leaves but not to flower production.

Or maybe it has a workable amount of nitrogen but not enough phosphorus.

Phosphorus is responsible for helping plants set fruit, and it’s integral to the flowering process.

Remember that pumpkins need nitrogen too, so you’re not trying to eradicate or even greatly diminish the content.

The main thing is to let a few other plants benefit from it while adding phosphorus to help those plants bloom.

You can learn more about the best companion plants to grow with pumpkins in this guide.

If daytime temperatures persistently rise above 90°F with little to no reprieve at night, your plant may be too stressed to produce flowers, which takes a lot of its energy and nutrients. Instead, it switches to a survival mode of sorts.

You might be skeptical that the sun could cause such damage to a sun-loving plant.

But take this example, which happened to me recently: I sowed several rhubarb plants from seed in containers this winter.

As soon as our extra-long Alaskan summer days hit, they thrived in their warm windowsill spot, growing thicker stalks and huge (for their age) leaves.

If you see powdery white stuff on your pumpkin vines or leaves, take action quickly. Remove the affected leaves and grab an organic fungicide to treat the plant.

Some fungicides are preventative, others are intended to treat an existing infestation, and some do both. So pay attention to what you’re spraying your plants with.

Spraying an existing fungal outbreak with preventative fungicide won’t do much, while adding a curative fungicide to non-infected plants can be a waste of time and money.

And if you live in an extra wet, rainy area, it’s worth spraying your plants with preventative fungicide early on in their growth.

Also, when you’re removing leaves, be sure to wash your hands between plants and even between infected and not-yet-infected leaves on the same plant.

The last thing you want to do is pluck a mildewed leaf off one vine, only to use that same hand to touch a healthy nearby plant or leaf, thus spreading the spores.

Any fungal infection could affect blossoming if the disease lowers the overall health of the vines and leaves, delaying blooming or even killing the plant.

But with quick and early treatment, you should be able to avoid this.

May They Bloom and Grow Forever

Well, maybe not forever. But now that you know the five main culprits that may cause a lack of blossoms, you’re ready to get those plants healthy and blooming.

And you know what that means – baby pumpkins coming soon to a plant near you. Oh, the excitement!

In the meantime, keep an eagle eye out for those pumpkins, like my three-year-old does. He adores checking on them. He even uses binoculars to get an extra-close look.

1. Barese

This white-stemmed heirloom variety is a dwarf type, only reaching about 9 inches tall at maturity.

‘Barese’

It has smooth, dark green leaves with a mild flavor. Quick growing, you can harvest baby leaves at 25 days, or mature leaves at 45 days.

Easy to grow in containers, it’s slow to bolt, giving you repeated harvests throughout the season.

Many gardeners harvest and cook the whole plant, as you would baby bok choy. ‘Barese’ is also quite pest-resistant.

Purchase packets of seeds in various quantities from True Leaf Market.

2. Bright Lights

Colorful ‘Bright Lights’ produces stems in yellow, orange, gold, pink, red, white, and striped.

‘Bright Lights’

As mentioned above, it is sometimes mistakenly called rainbow chard.

This 1998 All-America Selections Edible Vegetable winner matures in 55 to 60 days and grows to about 20 inches tall. Adding vibrant color to your garden, it is sometimes grown purely for its ornamental value.

The leaves and stalks are tender and have a milder flavor than some other types, particularly those with deep red stalks. Harvested young, the dark green leaves are delicious in salads.

Find packets of 100 seeds for ‘Bright Lights’ at Burpee.

3. Fordhook Giant

Introduced by Burpee in 1934, his mild-flavored cultivar has thick, dark green leaves that are heavily savoyed and quite tender. Young leaves can be used raw in salads, and mature leaves are best cooked for a sweeter flavor.

‘Fordhook Giant’

‘Fordhook Giant’ is easy to grow and produces heavy yields – even in warm weather. It prefers full sun, but will tolerate a bit of shade.

It grows 20 to 28 inches tall, and matures in 60 days.

Find packets of 350 seeds for ‘Fordhook Giant’ at Burpee.

4. Large White Ribbed

This heirloom variety has a wide, flat, white stem and smooth, tender leaves. Young leaves make a tasty addition to salads, and the mature leaves can be enjoyed steamed or stir-fried.

‘Large White Ribbed’

‘Large White Ribbed’ grows to about 20 inches tall and is mature in about 60 days. Unfortunately, this variety can be a bit more susceptible to pests such as leaf miners.

Seeds for ‘Large White Ribbed’ in packets of various sizes are available at Eden Brothers.

5. Lucullus

‘Lucullus’ is an heirloom variety of chard named for a Roman emperor who was well known as a gastronome.

‘Lucullus’

His eponymous chard produces broad, thick stalks that are white or pale green and large, dark green leaves that are heavily savoyed.

Growing to about 20 inches tall, ‘Lucullus’ matures in 52 to 55 days. Both leaves and stalks have a sweet, mild flavor, and store well in the freezer.

Seeds for ‘Lucullus’ are available at True Leaf Market.

6. Magenta Sunset

The color of the stems of this heirloom variety is nothing short of show-stopping – bright pink and beautiful!

‘Magenta Sunset’

The stems and smooth leaves of ‘Magenta Sunset’ have a mild flavor, and the pink-veined immature leaves are especially tasty in salads.

‘Magenta Sunset’ matures in about 65 days, and grows to about 24 inches tall. It can have a tendency to bolt if young plants are exposed to cool temperatures.

Find packets of 200 seeds for this colorful variety at True Leaf Market.

7. Orange Fantasia

This open-pollinated type displays bright orange stems topped by deep green, savoyed leaves, which are tasty in salads when harvested young.

‘Orange Fantasia’

A colorful addition to stir-fries, this variety maintains its color when cooked.

A bolt-resistant cultivar, this type is fully mature at about 20 inches tall within about 65 days after planting.

Packets of 50 to 200 seeds for this colorful variety are available from Seed King Express via Amazon.

8. Peppermint

This open-pollinated type is named not for its flavor, but rather, for its white stems that are striped with reddish-pink hues.

‘Peppermint’

Somewhat reminiscent of a Chioggia beet, this type makes a striking addition to your vegetable garden.

‘Peppermint’ matures in 53 to 63 days, but you can start harvesting baby leaves in as few as 35 days.

This cultivar can grow to about 24 inches tall. The leaves are wide, dark green, and savoyed with bright white veins. Adding a robust, earthy flavor, they are delicious steamed or in stir-fries.

Find packets of 200 seeds for ‘Peppermint’ chard at David’s Garden Seeds via Amazon.

9. Rhubarb

There’s also a popular chard variety called ‘Rhubarb,’ which is not in fact rhubarb at all.

‘Rhubarb’

Whoever named this variety was focused on appearance rather than flavor..

‘Rhubarb’ chard produces dark green, savoyed leaves with dark red veins. The stalks are crimson (thus, the name) and slightly flat. Baby greens will add interest to salads, and the mature leaves are juicy and tasty when cooked.

This type, also known as ‘Ruby Red’ (less fitting, since at least to me they don’t resemble grapefruit…) matures in 60 days and grows to 20 to 24 inches tall.

Packets of 550 seeds are available at Burpee.

A Rainbow of Choices

Who knew there was such a variety available in the world of chard?And now it’s time to decide: tall or short? Crumple-leafed or smooth? Orange, red, white, pink, or green?

Whichever cultivars you choose, be sure to check out our complete chard growing guide for tips to get started, once your seeds arrive.

Do you already have a favorite variety? What worked well in your growing zone? Share your intel in the comments section below!

Considering other types of greens? Check out these growing guides to learn more:

No wonder these trees are considered one of the six national nature symbols, and they factor into Finnish folklore.

The birch was long considered a holy or sacred tree. The Finnish fairy tale “The Birch and the Star” describes two lost children who find their home by looking for their birch tree.

People in Britain would use birch brooms, called besoms, to sweep out bad witchcraft along with the dust and dirt.

Some gardeners today still believe that sweeping a birch besom over the garden will rid it of bad vibes. Hey, I’ll try anything to get rid of aphids…

Frigga and Freya of Norse mythology are linked to birches, and the tree represents new beginnings and renewal in Celtic myth. Samuel Taylor Coleridge called the birch the “the Lady of the woods.”

Paper Birch

One of my favorite birches, and one of my favorite trees altogether, is the paper birch, B. papyrifera. I love the way the peeling, papery bark adds texture to the winter landscape.

Nature Hills Nursery carries this species.

River birches (B. nigra) do extremely well next to a river or pond, but you can plant them just about anywhere. They can reach a towering 80 feet and half as wide.

River Birch

Visit Nature Hills to bring one home. They carry live, single-stem trees in #3 or #5 containers, and multi-stem trees in #5 containers, so you have options.

6. Cedar

I’m going to include both true cedars (Cedrus spp.) and trees in the genus Thuja here, which we know commonly as cedars but are actually arborvitae. Both of these hold special significance for the people who live in areas where they grow.

For the indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest, western redcedar (Thuja plicata) is known as the “tree of life,” and some tribes called themselves people of the cedar, or cedar people, such as the Clatsop, Chinook, Kathlamet, Klatskanie, and Tillamook in Oregon.

Native people would gather at the base of redcedars for ceremonies and to rejuvenate, and the wood was often used to create totem poles.

This broad, tall tree can reach hundreds of feet in height and can live for at least 1,500 years.

Across the world, the demigod Humbaba was the guardian of the cedar forest in Mesopotamian mythology. The cedar forest is the place where the gods dwell, and people saw the trees as sacred for this reason.

In China, people believed planting a cedar tree would ensure that your lover stayed faithful.

Want to keep a cedar tree as a reminder of love in your life?

Deodar cedars (C. deodara) have a pyramidal shape with gracefully drooping branches and they make a grand gesture in the garden.

Deodar Cedar

Pick up a live tree in a #5 container at Nature Hills Nursery.

7. Elm

While some plants are associated with bright things like new beginnings, elm trees (Ulmus spp.) are strongly associated with the underworld.

Orpheus journeyed to the underworld to rescue his wife, Eurydice, and when he was successful, he played his harp in celebration. An elm tree grew in that spot, according to the Greek myth.

Other tellings say that as Orpheus was about to emerge from the underworld, he looked back at his wife. This was forbidden and she was taken back to the underworld. An elm grew in her place.

Celts believed elms guarded the passage to the underworld. In Medieval London, two elm trees were used for hangings, earning the trees a dark reputation.

It’s fitting that the wood is a popular choice for coffins.

Personally, I love elms. They grow fast, tolerate all kinds of environmental conditions, don’t need a lot of pruning, and come in many shapes and sizes.

Lacebark Elm

Lacebark elms (U. parvifolia) are tough as nails with rough, textural bark.

They add a nice element to the yard during the dormant season. Nature Hills carries this species in a #5 container.

DannaSpire is a columnar lacebark elm cultivar (U. parvifolia ‘DavesStraightUp’) that grows 25 feet tall and just five feet wide, at most.

It’s such a cool option for a small space or for creating a windbreak.

DannaSpire Elm

Find one in three- to four- or four- to five-foot heights at Fast Growing Trees.

Find our guide to growing elm trees here.

8. Foxglove

It’s an interesting name for a flower – foxglove!

But was this actually based on a belief that foxes wore gloves? Not exactly.

Foxglove is the common name for plants in the Digitalis genus, used in ancient times as a drug, and still used today in some heart medicines.

Digitalin, a cardiac glycoside that can be extracted from the plant, can help steady rapid heartbeats and arrhythmias when used in small doses.

However, the constituents of this beautiful flower were also used as a poison in old times, since these same cardiac glycosides are highly toxic – and best kept away from pets and small children.

Of course, foxes never wore gloves, but the name was recorded in England dating as far back as the 14th century. It is probably a distortion of “folks’ glove.”

According to Margaret Grieve in her tome on herbalism and lore, “A Modern Herbal,” “good folk” was the name sometimes used for fairies – and these little beings were said to live inside the flowers, perhaps responsible for their potencies, both good and bad.

This story and so much more on many other plants can be found in Grieve’s masterpiece on botanical culture. It’s sold in two parts – find Volume 1 and Volume 2 on Amazon.

The blooms are heliotropic, following the light. During old times, when more people professed to believe in fairies, the plant was said to be moving towards any fairy person that passed by.

These flowers are biennials, producing leaves one year, and flower stems the year after.

The common foxglove, D. purpurea, produces delightful purple flowers.

There are also many hybrid varieties of foxglove available, as well as some in shades of apricot, white, and pink. You might like ‘Dalmatian Peach,’ which is available at Nature Hills Nursery.

Learn more about growing foxgloves in our guide.

9. Hazel

The Celts tell a story of nine hazel trees (Corylus spp.) surrounding a well that sat at the border between the gods and Earth.

The trees dropped nuts into the water, and these were eaten by salmon swimming in the water.

These salmon gained all the knowledge in the world, and the first person to eat one of these “salmon of knowledge” would gain that wisdom.

It’s not just the Celts believed these trees marked the border between the gods and mortals or the afterlife. The Greek god Hermes, and his Roman equivalent, Mercury, was said to carry a wisdom-granting staff made of hazel with him when he crossed between the worlds.

Norse myth says that Thor carried a staff made out of hazel to protect himself from lightning.

In China, it was believed that God gave hazelnuts to humans as one of the five sacred foods.

American Hazelnut

In North America, almost any hazelnut you can buy at the store comes from Oregon, where 63,000 tons of nuts are produced each year.

But you want your own, right? Grab an American hazelnut (C. americana) at Nature Hills Nursery in a #3 or #5 container.

Learn how to grow your own hazelnut trees in our guide.

10. Holly

Druids in ancient Ireland and England believed the evergreen foliage of a holly (Ilex spp.) could bring the sun into homes during the winter.

Turns out, there’s more than one reason to bring holly sprigs indoors beyond amping up your winter decor!

Native people in North America used Ilex vomitoria, commonly known as the yaupon holly, as both a ceremonial drink and to revive their spirits and bring focus.

They didn’t know it, but they were using the power of caffeine from North America’s only caffeinated plant.

Indigenous people taught the drink made out of the leaves could bring about clarity and peace.

By the way, ignore the specific epithet here. As with many things, European colonists didn’t understand the value of yaupon hollies when they named the plant, assuming it was being used to induce vomiting.

We now know that ingesting tea made from this plant doesn’t induce vomiting any more readily than drinking too much coffee.

There are endless Ilex options out there, so pick one that calls to you. Lately, I’ve fallen in love with ‘Needlepoint,’ a holly cultivar from the cornuta species.

The glossy green leaves aren’t edged in spines except for one at the tip of each leaf.

‘Needlepoint’ Holly

If you have unresolved trauma from scraped arms and legs from a childhood of hide and seek in holly bushes, this one will come as a welcome relief.

Plus, the red berries appear even without a second plant for pollination purposes.

Invite ‘Needlepoint’ to your yard by heading to Nature Hills Nursery for a live plant in a quart or #3 container.

Learn more about growing holly in our guides.

11. Lady’s Mantle

The wonderful Alchemilla mollis or lady’s mantle – a superbly hardy garden plant that can also seed itself prolifically – has ornate, cup-like leaves notable for catching and collecting beautiful beads of dew.

Well before the 18th century in Europe, alchemists thought there was something magical about the plant, and particularly the properties in the dew it collected.

They were said to use the drops to try and turn base metals into gold – hence the name Alchemilla, after the ancient practice of alchemy.

M. Grieve, who we talked about above, wrote that this dew was also added to magical potions.

Lady’s Mantle

Whether you’re considering whipping up a magical brew or you just want to add some jewel-like interest to your yard, Nature Hills carries live plants in #1 containers.

Learn how to grow your own lady’s mantle in our guide.

12. Laurel

Laurel trees and shrubs (Laurus spp.) have a long, regal history. You’ve heard of a poet laureate, right?

The word laureatus is Latin for “crowned with laurel,” and medieval universities would crown graduates with a branch of the tree.

It’s not just a tree of knowledge. Ancient Romans thought they would be protected from lightning strikes and plague if one took shelter under a laurel tree.

In Greek mythology, after a battle with the dragon Python, Apollo was said to have cleansed himself with laurel to provide protection from the slain dragon’s spirit.

During the witch madness of the Middle Ages, the wood of the laurel was thought to provide protection from witches as well as lightning.

And here in the US in modern times, many of us enjoy the flavor bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) leaves can add to our meals.

Bay Laurel

Whether you want to grow it in a container on your patio or in your yard, you can nab a bay laurel from Nature Hills in a #1 container.

Learn more about growing bay laurel in our guide.

13. Linden

Baucis and Philemon of Ovid’s “Metamorphosis” were granted the gift of staying together for their whole lives and dying at the same time by the disguised gods Zeus and Hermes.

Baucis and Philemon earned this gift after they generously hosted the gods, not knowing who they were, when all their neighbors refused. When they died, they turned into a linden (Tilia spp.) and an oak, respectively.

As a result, the Greeks associated lindens with eternal love and hospitality.

Norse gods Odin and Freya and the Celtic goddess Arianrhod are associated with lindens, and people believed that the trees could provide love and harmony.

People in Slavic countries viewed linden trees as the link between life and death, and they are often planted to ward off evil.

In Chinese folklore, the trees are thought to be able to tame a rebellious heart or provide clarity on a difficult matter.

I remember my first experience with a linden. I was walking around my childhood neighborhood and encountered a tree that blew my senses away.

It was like I had walked into a cloud of honey, the fragrance was so intense, and I could practically taste the sweetness. Accompanying the scent was the buzzing of bees, a sound so loud that I could feel it vibrating my entire body.

If there was ever a tree that could inspire love and harmony, the linden is it. I felt a swelling of joy, and I just wanted to sit under the tree and enjoy the brilliance.

There are many excellent linden options out there. The American linden (T. americana) is a little harder to find, but I think it’s worth seeking out this North American native.

American Linden

I love the huge, heart-shaped leaves and stately shape.

Nature Hills Nursery carries this species in #3 containers if you’ve fallen in love with lindens as much as I have.

14. Mint

Next time you stumble across a bit of mint (Mentha spp.) that has escaped its garden spot, think twice about pulling it. According to Greek myth, mint is actually the goddess Minthe, transformed by a jealous Persephone.

Since Hades (aka Pluto, in Roman myth) couldn’t restore Minthe to human form, he gave her a pleasant scent so everyone could appreciate her charms.

Ancient Romans thought Venus (Aphrodite in Greek myth) wore a crown of mint and that the plant could incite lust.

‘Kentucky Colonel’ Mint

Personally, I’m more concerned about flavoring my cocktail than inciting lust, but maybe you’re looking to do both? If so, pick up some M. spicata ‘Kentucky Colonel’ plants at Burpee.

This cultivar is the classic choice for mint juleps. I think Minthe would approve.

Learn more about growing mint in our guide.

15. Mulberry

Depending on where you come from, the beautiful mulberry (Morus spp.) is either an evil tree or shrub, or it’s a marvelous one.

Considered a sacred ancient tree (fusang) in China and an essential part of the silk industry, since it’s a host of the silkworm, people there believed the 10 birds that represent the sun live in a mulberry tree.

In German folklore, the devil uses the roots of the mulberry to shine his boots.

In Ovid’s “Metamorphoses,” the characters Pyramus and Thisbie meet under a mulberry tree, and when Thisbe finds Pyramus wounded and dying there later, she takes her own life.

People in some US municipalities feel the same way that the Germans do, though for different reasons.

Some species of this tree are banned in certain areas because of their heavy pollen production and invasive growth.

Red Mulberry

If it’s legal to grow in your area, a red mulberry (M. rubra) can be had at Nature Hills Nursery.

Mulberries are delicious and many types of wildlife adore the fruit, so if you can safely and legally grow them, they’re beautiful and productive trees to have around.

Read our guide to learn how to grow your own mulberries.

16. Mullein

A favorite for use in plant borders, Verbascum thapsus has many common names.

You may know it best as mullein, which derives from the Latin word mollis for soft, because of its downy, velvety leaves.

Another common name is hag’s taper, or you may hear it referred to as the candlewick plant.

The wooly flowering stems, growing up to six feet tall, were often dipped in fat and lit as tapers, and the leaves were sometimes used as floor coverings and insoles for shoes. Maybe giving this a try with your favorite pair of gardening shoes would be worth a shot?

Lighting a hag’s taper was said to ward off bad witches and sorcery, and the dried fluff from the leaves and stems was made into wicks for candles.

There was also a superstition that witches would use the tapers themselves for practicing their magic – another great tidbit of folklore on mullein found in M. Grieve’s herbal from the early 1900s.

A most useful plant, mullein is still sometimes used today among herbalists and as a home remedy.

The leaves and flowers contain anti-inflammatory and demulcent compounds, including polysaccharides, saponins, and glycosides, which are said to be especially helpful for treating coughs and lung issues.

While traditional use is strong, medical research on these effects is weak.

The plants are biennial, forming a rosette of soft leaves in their first year, then blooming with striking flowers in their second year before they die.

There are a great many garden varieties to choose from nowadays, as several lovely hybrids have been produced.

Verbascum ‘Raspberry Ripple’ is particularly pretty, a cultivar of wild mullein chosen for its raspberry-red flowers, rather than the typical yellow flowers seen in mullein.

‘Southern Charm’ Mullein

Another striking option is ‘Southern Charm,’ a hybrid with lavender, rose, and peach blossoms. You can purchase both seeds and live plants at Burpee.

17. Oak

If you’ve ever stood at the base of a massive oak tree (Quercus spp.) and looked up, you know how impressive they can be.

It’s little wonder that many cultures associate oaks with thunder. You can easily see a thunder god reaching down from the heavens and finding a mighty oak to be the closest thing.

Even if you don’t believe in supreme beings, it’s likely that an oak, as the tallest thing in the forest, would attract lightning bolts.

Oak trees are associated with thunder in Scandinavian folklore, and the god Thor. Russians had Perun and Lithuanians had Perkunas, both gods of thunder as well as oaks.

Ancient Greeks believed in Zeus, and the Romans Jupiter, and both were associated with oaks as well.

Ancient Hebrews believed the oak held special significance as it was the place where Abraham met with the Christian and Jewish god in the form of three angels disguised as travelers.

The Oak of Abraham, called Eshel Avraham, has drawn worshipers for centuries.

The Celtic people worshiped the goddess of the oak, Daron, and many of their rituals and ceremonies took place among oaks and using parts of the tree. The mistletoe that grows in the canopy of oak trees was also an important part of their ceremonies.

Druids believed the tannins in oaks had healing power, as did many Indigenous people of North America.

Native people also believed the trees offered strength and protection.

The Sioux have a tale of a sorceress who turns a man into an oak after he rejects her, and indigenous leaders of the Ojibwe and Dakota people in the Chippewa Valley in modern-day Wisconsin gathered around the council oak tree.

You can hardly be blamed if you want to make the majestic oak a part of your garden.

A mighty pin oak (Q. palustris) grows up to 70 feet tall and about two-thirds as wide. In the fall, it puts on an incredible show with bright red, orange, and yellow hues.

Pin Oak Tree

Fast Growing Trees carries this species in several sizes.

After you’ve brought yours home, read our guide to growing oaks to learn how to plant and care for your new addition.

18. Rose

The rose (Rosa spp.) has been an adored flowering shrub for centuries, a sentiment shared among people of different cultures all around the world.

Legend has it that once, all roses were thought to be white – until Venus, the Roman goddess of love, cut herself on the thorns and turned the flower red forever with her blood.

For that reason, many associate the rose with love and romance!

There is other folklore about the rose, however, that doesn’t have to do with the classic notion of romantic love.

The legend of the Cherokee rose, for example – or R. laevigata, the state flower of Georgia – centers around a species that came to the US originally from China.

It is said that after Cherokee mothers and women who walked the tragic Trail of Tears grieved all those who had fallen, their tears sprouted to become beautiful white roses, which spread all around the country as a reminder.

Do you want to grow the Cherokee rose? Well, you can!

R. laevigata is tolerant of most conditions but prefers well-drained soil and partial shade. It’s a tough and prolific plant, able to survive droughts.

Cherokee Roses

This climbing rose can reach heights of 20 feet as an evergreen perennial in Zones 4 to 10.

Seeds are available from the Red Earth Seeds store via Amazon.

Learn more about growing roses here.

19. Rosemary

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) was once widely believed to be a protective herb. It was thought to ward off evil spirits and witches in the Middle Ages, and was sometimes dropped into graves so that a deceased loved one would not be forgotten.

In Christian mythology, it was said that rosemary had white blossoms until the Virgin Mary draped or dropped her blue cloak onto a plant, changing the hue of the blossoms forever, earning it the name “Rose of Mary.”

The Greek goddess Aphrodite was said to be draped in rosemary at her birth, and those who worshiped her regarded the plant as holy and powerful.

This is an ingredient beloved by cooks, and a fragrant evergreen addition to the garden. You can even use rosemary to create a tiny Christmas tree.

Tuscan Rosemary

If you’d like to add a live plant in a five gallon decorative pot to your space, visit Fast Growing Trees.

Read more about growing rosemary here.

20. Rowan

Sorbus aucuparia is commonly known as mountain ash or rowan. But some people call it by its other name: witchwood.

Scots believed that if they planted witchwoods around their homes, it would protect them from witches. You could also hang branches of rowan trees over doorways to grant the same protection.

And there can be other reasons to lift and store bulbs for a few months as well, like when you’re reworking a bed or redesigning a container – you may want to hold off on replanting your bulbs until fall arrives.

Or maybe you’re going to try your hand at forcing bulbs indoors and want a supply of cured bulbs ready for planting when the time is right.

Whatever your reasons for lifting them, you’ll want to ensure it’s done at the correct time so you’ll have large, healthy corms loaded with energy for next year.

If your spade is poised, let’s unearth the steps on how to store crocus bulbs!

Here’s what you’ll find ahead:

Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Crocus is a genus of perennial, spring-flowering bulbs in the iris family, Iridaceae.

Low-growing plants with large flowers, the small corms – not true bulbs, but similar – have superb cold hardiness and the intensely colored flowers often emerge in late winter before spring officially arrives.

They’re a popular choice for seasonal ground covers, in naturalized plantings, and in beds or borders, and they make a handsome container plant as well.

After flowering early in the growing season, the foliage and roots start to die back as they prepare to enter their summer dormant period.

No growth occurs over summer but with the arrival of fall rains, roots resume growth as the bulbs come partially out of dormancy.

With the uptake of nutrients and water, offsets are pupped in cool fall temperatures and some foliage may appear at this time as well.

The corms remain in a semi-dormant state over winter and need an extended chill time to finally break out of dormancy. After chilling, and once the days start to lengthen in February, flowers follow shortly thereafter.

Knowing their growth cycle is important because it holds the key to when to lift your bulbs. But it should be noted that the instructions in this guide refer to spring flowering crocuses only.

Other varieties that bloom in fall, such as Beiderstein’s (C. speciosus), saffron (C. sativa), and white autumn crocuses (C. ochroleucus), plus species of Colchicum, have different growth patterns.

When and How to Lift

By the time all the foliage has died back in late spring to early summer, the corms are dormant and can be safely lifted.

To tell if they’re dormant, the foliage should be brown, papery, and easily pulled free.

Avoid lifting corms before the foliage has died back – the leaves are needed to collect and process energy through photosynthesis, which is then stored in the corms.

Before they enter dormancy, it’s a good idea to mark the center of the clump with a garden tag – this aids with accuracy when digging them up.

Use a clean trowel or spade to dig around the clump carefully, allowing four to six inches of ease out from the root zone to prevent cutting or damaging corms.

Lift the clumps and use your fingers to pull the corms apart.

Discard any damaged bulbs or ones that are moldy, soft, or too small. Generally, cormlets that are less than half an inch in circumference can be discarded.

Use your fingers or a soft brush to remove surface soil but leave the papery tunics intact.

After lifting, the corms need to cure before going into storage. That’s next!

How to Store

Freshly dug corms require curing time to dry before storage – excess moisture can cause mold and have a negative impact on their health.

Lay the bulbs on a piece of cardboard or screen in a single layer and place in a warm location out of direct sunlight with good air circulation.

Allow the bulbs to dry for seven to 10 days, turning them over after three or four days.

After curing, trim away any remaining foliage and roots and brush off any missed soil.

If desired, you can dust the corms with a fungicide – but this isn’t necessary if they’ve been cured before storage.

Place the corms in a paper bag and fold over the top to close it. Mesh bags work as well.

Place the bag in a cool location with temperatures of 50 to 65°F and store for up to five months. In warm temperatures above 70°F, damage to the corms can occur.

Check the corms after they come out of storage and before planting. Discard any with signs of decay, mold, or soft flesh.

Vernalization Needs

For flowering to occur, corms require a chill time of 12 to 14 weeks at temperatures of 45°F or lower.

Within their hardiness range, the required chill time is naturally met when planted outdoors.

But for forcing bulbs, you’ll need to cool them in the refrigerator for 12 to 14 weeks to meet their cold requirements.

For all the steps on forcing, check out this guide on how to grow crocuses indoors.

When to Plant

After storage, plant outdoors in beds and containers once the soil temperatures have dropped to 60°F or below in the fall – you can find the details in our guide on when to plant crocus bulbs.

A good rule of thumb for planting is to wait until you’ve had two weeks of overnight temperatures that go down to 50°F.

Planting typically takes place from September to November, depending on your region. And the corms should be in the ground at least six weeks before the first hard frost unless you are chilling them artificially for forcing.

This allows time for strong root growth before freezing temperatures arrive.

Collaborative post

Saving for a deposit on a house can feel like a Herculean task, especially in the modern housing market. But what if there’s a solution that has been under your nose all along?

Enter, Shared Ownership. A concept as old as the British love for tea, but as refreshing as a summer’s day in Brighton.

A brief history of shared ownership

Shared Ownership’s roots can be traced back to various cooperative movements in the UK. Historically, groups pooled resources to achieve common goals. And today, Shared Ownership remains a nod to this collective effort. It’s a brilliant way for you to own part of your dream house without bearing the brunt of its total cost.

Unpacking the shared ownership scheme

Imagine buying just a slice of a pizza instead of the whole pie. Shared ownership operates on a similar premise.

You buy a slice of the property, typically ranging from 25% to 75%, and rent the rest. As time goes on, you can buy more of your home, until one day, you’ve devoured the entire pie.

With this scheme, not only do you need a smaller deposit, but you also enjoy reduced monthly payments. It’s like having your cake (or pizza) and eating it.

Guide to shared ownership: is it worth the hype?

Here’s a quick guide to the key benefits of shared ownership:

• Affordability: It’s the primary reason people flock to this scheme. You’re only required to put a deposit on the portion you’re buying, which can be incredibly pocket-friendly.
• Stepping stone: It’s a golden bridge for those who wish to make the transition from renting to owning.
• Equity building: Over time, you can expand your share, allowing you to benefit from any increase in the property’s value when you’re ready to sell.
• Flexibility: As your financial situation changes, you have the option to buy more or less of the property.

Smart ways to maximise shared ownership

If you’re sold on the idea and are ready to sail the shared ownership ship, here are a few navigational tips:

• Joint ventures: Consider pooling resources with friends or family. It’s a way to further reduce costs.
• Discount hunts: Some schemes might offer discounts on property purchase prices. Also, keeping an eye on possible grants or tax benefits can significantly boost your savings.

Exploring shared ownership opportunities

Discovering the perfect shared ownership property requires diligence and determination.

Start by diving deep into what’s available from the various housing associations. For example, we were recently looking at this collection in Sussex. This region is renowned for its beautiful landscapes and prime properties.

The Sussex connection: a shared ownership paradise

When you think of the UK, places like London, Manchester, or Edinburgh might instantly spring to mind. But nestled in the southeast is Sussex, a gem that boasts a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty.

Why Sussex is a shared ownership haven

1. Historic charm: With its castles, ancient ruins, and picturesque villages, Sussex offers a dreamy backdrop for potential homeowners.
2. Bustling local life: Sussex is not just about historic sites. The county is alive with buzzing market towns, festivals, and a vibrant arts scene. Owning a property here means being at the heart of cultural events all year round.
3. Nature’s bounty: For those who yearn for greenery and the sea, Sussex delivers in spades. From the undulating South Downs to the chalky cliffs of the coast, it’s a nature lover’s paradise.
4. Ease of commute: Close enough to London for work and yet distant enough for peace and tranquillity, Sussex provides the perfect balance for modern living.

Local amenities and attractions in Sussex

For those interested in shared ownership in Sussex, here’s a glimpse of what the region offers:

• Brighton’s Royal Pavilion: A regal residence turned public attraction, this building is a testament to the opulence of the past.
• South Downs National Park: A vast expanse of rolling hills, perfect for weekend hikes or picnics.
• Lewes Castle: Offering panoramic views of the town of Lewes, it’s a trip back in time.
• Shopping and dining: From quaint boutiques in Brighton Lanes to gourmet dining experiences at local bistros, Sussex is a treat for the senses.

The shared ownership legacy: more than just a scheme

Shared ownership isn’t just a financial scheme or a step on the property ladder. It’s a testament to our inherent human nature to collaborate, share, and grow together. It’s about building communities, forging connections, and creating homes filled with memories.

As you embark on your shared ownership journey, especially in a place as enchanting as Sussex, remember that every brick, every wall, and every window is a chapter of your story. A story that’s unique, inspiring, and quintessentially yours.

Shared ownership FAQs: Clearing the Fog

How much should I save up?

The golden number is 5%. This represents your commitment and showcases your readiness for the homeownership journey. However, remember the journey involves other costs too, from solicitors fees to maintenance.

Are there any challenges?

Potential selling difficulties or restrictions on property usage can arise. Make sure to equip yourself with knowledge to navigate these issues.

Does shared ownership come with savings benefits?

Yes! As you’re splashing out less on mortgage interest, you might enjoy a bigger savings pot when the year wraps up.

What about maintenance?

Your shared home is like a shared responsibility. It’s essential to keep it in good condition. This not only preserves the property’s value, but also ensures that your shared ownership experience remains positive.

Who can take advantage of shared ownership?

First-time buyers, those with a limited household income, or individuals with a housing need are typically eligible.

Conclusion

Embarking on shared ownership might just be the beacon of hope for many. It’s a nifty way to dabble in the world of property ownership without diving into the deep end right away. The perks? A reduced deposit, flexibility, and the joy of owning a piece of your haven. Choosing shared ownership could be the solution to your property dilemma and a way to start out on the path to your housing dreams.

You work hard to grow pumpkins in nice hills, with a nice clear space around them…

…and yet, a vine growing out of the compost pile yields way more than all your careful efforts!

40 pumpkins, all from the vine(s) that came from our compost pile in the spring.

265lbs of pumpkins. Come on. That’s ridiculous.

Now we have to hope they taste good, as I generally only saved seeds from pumpkins that were delicious, and composted the pumpkins that were bland.

I guess I need to stop doing that, and just plant the bland pumpkin seeds, knowing they won’t do much, while composting the great-tasting pumpkins so they grow huge yields on accident.

I joke about growing pumpkins this way in a video from last month:

You can see the vine that made all these pumpkins in that video as well.

It’s pretty ridiculous how these accidental pumpkins always grow better than the intentional ones.

I won’t complain, though. As a commenter notes: “Five pounds of pumpkin per week for a year. That’s a good healthy amount of pumpkin, even for your family!”

Not bad at all.

UPDATE:

I just finished a video on these pumpkins:

Hide and seek!

P.S. This morning’s accompaniment – a beautiful performance of Palestrina.

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A terracotta wind chime is not just a visually pleasing decoration to have in your garden but also a musical tool that fills the air with delightful sounds. This simple DIY wind chime requires just a few materials but creates a large impact in the garden. 

Not only is it beautiful to look at, but terracotta gives off a beautiful and distinctive sound. I’m a big fan of terracotta, and I use it in many ways in the garden. It’s just so versatile! Put that quality to use by making a beautiful-looking (and sounding) DIY wind chime. 

Here’s how to make a wind chime using terracotta pots!

History of Terracotta Clay Pots

The name terracotta comes from the Latin word for “baked earth,” which is exactly what terracotta is: fired clay.

Terracotta has been in use for thousands of years, with figures in Greece dating back as far as 3,000 BC. Often used for utilitarian purposes, terracotta was a common material for rooftops, bricks, and sarcophagi.

Terracotta pots also date back to ancient times, as ancient Romans and Egyptians purposefully planted plants in pots. Fast forward several thousand years, and gardeners worldwide still love using terracotta pots for their earthen look.

Why I Love Using Terracotta in the Garden

Flower pots made from terracotta are a garden icon due to their versatility, durability, and affordability. They come from the earth and act as a more solid soil for plants. 

The pots are porous and will break apart when it freezes. However, if you use them in the spring through fall and store them for the winter, they will last many years. 

The porous clay allows for air and moisture to readily flow through the pots, making them a good choice for plants that like good drainage and dislike sitting in water. On the other hand, that same porosity can mean that plants dry out a little faster in terracotta, which means that it’s not the best fit for growing all plants.

Herbs, succulents, and many annuals do extremely well in terracotta.  

How to Make Wind Chimes From Terracotta

Even though this DIY wind chime is made from a few clay pots, its sound is surprisingly musical, complementing the beauty surrounding it in the garden space. 

Different-sized terracotta pots allow each pot to make a different chime when knocked together. Using beads inside the pots creates weight so that each pot will tap against the other, creating a cacophony of sound alongside the buzzing bees and chirping birds.  

Materials

Directions

Go to your local craft or garden store and look for terracotta pots the vary in size. I was able to find three pots with the exact same shape in sizes that had a small variation in diameter and height.  

Choose a strong cord that can be used in an outdoor setting. Look for a synthetic cord for outdoor projects because it is the strongest and longest-lasting in most cases. 

Begin assembling the wind chime by cutting the length of the cord that will complement the length of the wind chime when it is completed. For this project, my cord was cut to 36 inches long. This allowed me to have a lot of extra cord at the end that was easy to trim off at the end. 

Thread the cord through the charm (in this case, the clay necklace pendant) and slide it into the middle of the cord. Collect both ends together and then add both ends of the cord through a large bead told the charm in place. 

Wrap a piece of tape around the ends of the cord to make them easier to thread through the bead if necessary. Tie a knot just above the wooden bead loosely, and measure where the bottom terracotta pot will sit. 

Put both ends of the cord through the hole in the bottom of the smallest terracotta pot and hold up the cord to see how it hangs. If you’re happy with the height and sound when you wiggle it a little bit then you can continue onto the next step. 

If you need to adjust it further, untie the knot and readjust until you’re happy with the placement. 

Thread both ends of the cord through another wooden bead and tie a knot where you want the top of the second-largest terracotta pot to sit.  

Continue adding clay pots and beads and tying knots until you have reached the top of your wind chime. Finish off by tying a knot to create a loop at the top of the two pieces of the cord where you would like to hang the wind chime. Trim off the ends of the cord. 

Hang your terracotta wind chime on a shepherd’s hook or from a tree. Then wait for a nice breeze to come along and start the music. 

That’s it! I hope you love watching and listening to your new beautiful clay wind chimes!

Frequently Asked Questions About DIY Wind Chimes

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This blog has been one of the constants in my life.

Since starting it in 2012, we’ve lived in five different houses and have attended nine different churches.

We’ve also had five more children, and have another on the way.

(Fortunately, I’ve kept the same wife.)

I’ve seen almost all my favorite garden blogging peers disappear, and the space get filled with lots of crummy fake gardening blogs that mostly exist to sell junky Chinese products.

Yet we’re still here.

Earlier this year I dropped the ads we were running here because I got tired of seeing them. I don’t know that it was a good idea, since that made me a few hundred per month and we have a mortgage to pay, but I just didn’t like seeing shoes and vacation ads and stuff in between my gardening posts.

Maybe I’m too idealistic and I should run them again. It was nice to pay the phone bill!

Anyhow, thanks for putting up with me all these years. It’s been a great run so far, and I really enjoy writing here. There’s a stability to it we don’t always have elsewhere.

Also, this is the 2812th post here. This year I’ve managed one post for every weekday, like I did for a long time in the early years of this site.

What a run it’s been. Glad you’re here.

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