Are you excited for autumn season? This list of kid-friendly, hilarious fall puns and fall jokes is perfect for helping the whole family celebrate this gorgeous time of the year.
The best fall puns and fall jokes
We’ve rounded up these brilliant autumn puns and silly autumn jokes to get you and the kids giggling. If you’re looking for jokes about fall to share with the family, read on!
Funny autumn puns to get you laughing
Let’s start off the silliness with some fun fall puns. As well as giving you a good laugh, they all make great fall captions for social media.
These family-friendly autumn jokes will get everyone laughing. Why not turn them into a corn-y list of dad jokes for fall season?
71. How do you fix a broken pumpkin? With a pumpkin patch.
72. Why does Humpty Dumpty love autumn so much?Because he had a great fall.
73. What is the cutest season?Aww-tumn.
74. Why did the pumpkin lose the boxing match? He let his gourd down.
75. What is a scarecrow’s favourite fruit?Straw-berries.
76. Why’s it so easy to trick a leaf in October? They fall for anything.
77. What’s the best thing to put into an apple pie? Your teeth.
78. Why are trees so carefree and easy going? Because every fall, they let loose.
79. Why did the scarecrow win a Nobel Prize?He was outstanding in his field.
80. What’s the best thing to put into a pumpkin pie? Your teeth.
81. Which pumpkin can swim the best? The coast gourd.
82. What time of year do people get injured the most?In the fall.
83. What do you get when you drop a pumpkin? Squash.
84. How do trees get on the internet in the fall? They log in.
85. What’s the best kind of vehicle in fall? An autumn-mobile.
Leaf jokes and leaf puns to blow them away
Ready some more fall jokes for kids? These leaf jokes will rustle up some laughter on autumn days.
86. What is it called when a tree takes some time off? Paid leaf.
87. What happens when winter arrives? Autumn leaves.
88. What is it called when a tree doesn’t think it’s autumn? Disbe-leaf.
89. What did the autumn leaf say to the other autumn leaf?I’m falling for you.
90. What did the ground say when fall came? Well that’s a re-leaf.
91. What should you do when you witness a crime in the forest?Report it to the leaf of police.
92. Why did the leaf go to the doctor? It was feeling green.
93. What do you call a big book about fall? A tome.
Leaf puns
Fallen leaves play a big role in fall jokes and cute fall puns for instagram posts. These leaf puns make perfect photo captions for your social media posts – and my nature hashtags copy and paste lists will help with those too.
94. That’s un-be-leaf-able
95. I be-leaf in you
96. Don’t leaf without me
97. It’s time to turn-ip over another leaf
98. Autumn leafs a smile on my face
99. I can’t be-leaf my eyes
100. Let’s breathe a sigh of re-leaf
101. Are you ready to leaf yet?
102. Leaf the past behind
103. Bet your autumn dollar
104. I would never leaf you
105. That’s a fall-acy
106. Autumn leaves are just tree-mendous
107. Don’t stop be-leafing
108. Be-leaf in yourself
109. Don’t leaf me hanging
110. Leaf me alone
111. I’m turning over a new leaf
112. Seeing is be-leafing
113. Even the leaves fall for you
114. Make like a tree and leaf
115. Let’s just fall it a day
116. These fall puns are unbe-leaf-able
117. Don’t like sappy puns? You should leaf right now
More funny autumn jokes for kids
These fall jokes will definitely leaf a smile on your face 😉
118. What do you wear under your shirt at the farmer’s market? A har-vest.
119. What did the lawn say to the rake? Leaf me alone!
120. How many books do you read at fall?I usually leaf through a couple of them.
121. What do lumberjacks shout at the start of fall?Sep-timberrrrrr.
122. What’s the best band to listen to in autumn?The Spice Girls.
123. Which month is a Rock Star’s favourite?Rock-tober.
124. What did the tree say to the wind? “Leaf me alone!”
125. How did the fall apple picking contest end? There was a de-cider.
Best jokes about autumn to make you feel cosy
126. What do you call a man in the pile of colourful leaves?Russell.
127. What is a tree’s least favourite month? Sep-timber.
128. How did the tree explain its bad behaviour?It said it was getting ready to turn over a new leaf.
129. What is a fires least favourite month?No-ember.
130. What did one autumn leaf say to the other?I’m fallin’ for you.
131. Why do birds fly south for the fall? Because it’s quicker than walking.
132. What are you studying in math class this autumn? Apple pi.
133. What do farmers wear in autumn? Har-vests.
Share your favourite silly fall puns and fall jokes
Hopefully this list of fall puns and awesome fall jokes has put a smile on your face, and provided you with the perfect fall instagram caption. If your favourite autumn jokes and autumn puns aren’t included make sure you share them in the comments 🍂🍁🍂
More brilliant jokes for all family members
If you’re raring to go with even more kid-friendly jokes and funny puns, I’ve got you covered!
Gardens are more than simply an extension of your house. They are sanctuaries, calm retreats, and reflections of precise care and design. Just as a magnificent event needs meticulous planning, your garden requires the correct mix of equipment and experience to reach its full potential.
Combining event planning with gardening expertise
Gardening isn’t just about planting seeds and watering plants. It’s a hobby that requires organisation, similar to putting on a big event.
Gardening tool rental provides an easy way to combine your organising talents with the beauty and functionality of landscape design. The correct tools are the unsung heroes in creating a garden that is not only physically appealing, but also operationally efficient.
The importance of selecting the right tools
Navigating the variety of gardening equipment available can feel daunting. The tools you rent may make or break the appearance and feel of your garden. However, if you focus on quality and practicality, you won’t go far wrong. Powerful diggers can prepare the ground, while precision-based instruments like hedge trimmers give a touch of refinement, converting your garden into an elegant retreat.
Once you’ve decided on your toolset, you need to learn how to use them effectively. A gardener must strategically deploy the tools at their disposal, much as an event designer carefully picks the sort of lighting or sound equipment to improve the experience. Your ability to use tools will determine the quality of the completed work, whether you are sculpting hedges or setting out a garden walk.
The new trend in gardening is largely focused on sustainability. There are now eco-friendly solutions for tool rental, ranging from battery-powered equipment to solar-powered gadgets designed to minimise your garden’s carbon impact. This is not a passing fad, but a long-term commitment to building more sustainable and environmentally friendly outdoor places.
The role of mini digger rental in aesthetic landscaping
We cannot overlook the role of mini digger hire in improving the aesthetics of your garden. Mini diggers provide a degree of accuracy that enables you to easily shift from planning to execution, due to their tiny size and operating efficiency. Mini diggers are unrivalled in their adaptability, whether it’s for building water features, organising flower beds, or fine-tuning the landscape.
Expertise is influencing the future of gardening
In today’s world, collaboration is a must for producing favourable outcomes. The tool rental sector is a good example of this.
Working with specialists or even neighbours not only allows you to pool resources, but also to exchange useful ideas, resulting in more thorough and rewarding garden projects. We are collaboratively shaping the future of gardening by choosing high-quality, sustainable equipment and sharing resources and expertise.
Choosing the right garden tools
Before you begin a garden project, take some time to create a plan. This will help you to understand the scope of the work, the costs involved, and the tools you need.
If you’re constructing a pond, for example, you may need a tiny digger for excavation and a submersible pump to drain surplus water.
When you’ve determined your requirements, consult with your tool rental business. They often provide package solutions for certain chores such as lawn maintenance, water feature installation, and garden bed preparation. These bundles might provide you with better value while also ensuring that you don’t neglect a critical item.
Maintenance of tools for longevity and performance
Maintaining your equipment ensures that you get consistent, high-quality outcomes throughout your job. This is particularly true for power instruments such as chainsaws and hedge trimmers.
When renting a tool, always request the operator’s manual. This will include basic maintenance methods, such as lubrication points and air filter cleaning techniques. It’s also a good idea to have a ‘dry run’ with the tool before bringing it into the field, to confirm it’s operating properly.
Maintain instruments after each use by keeping cleaning materials available, such as brushes and lubricants. This proactive approach to maintenance might spare you from last-minute problems.
It’s also vital that you take precautions while using garden tools. Begin by reading or inquiring about the safety features and correct operating practices of each instrument. Emergency stop buttons, blade guards, and safety clasps are examples of such features. When operating heavy gear, such as mini diggers, avoid wearing loose clothes that might get trapped, and always work on a level, firm platform to avoid tipping. Consider using earmuffs with noisy equipment and a face mask with tasks that generate dust or particles. Keep a first-aid kit on hand, and make sure your phone is within reach in case of an emergency.
How to select a reputable tool rental service
The market is flooded with tool rental providers, but it is critical to prioritise quality and dependability.
A good tool rental business should offer an up-to-date inventory, clear rental terms, and prompt customer service. Choose a provider that inspects and cleans its tools before renting them out.
Many businesses also provide on-site training or tool demos; use them to ensure you’re completely familiar with the tool you’re borrowing. If possible, always get a demonstration before bringing the tool home to ensure that it’s in good working order.
It’s also a good idea to read customer reviews and service ratings before making your final choice.
Gardening tools for every season
Gardens don’t hibernate; they change with the seasons. This ever-changing environment demands a diverse toolkit. For example, aerators and tillers may be needed to prepare beds in the spring, while leaf blowers and chainsaws may be required for trimming in autumn.
Because tool rental companies refresh their inventory according to the season, they can be a useful guide to the equipment that will best fit your requirements at any given time of year. Most providers provide variable hiring durations ranging from one day to many weeks, enabling you to rent a speciality instrument for brief but intensive seasonal garden chores.
Finally, consider the advantages of hiring vs purchasing
Using the right tools for your garden project is likely to not only save you money, but also deliver a higher quality result. Garden tool hire allows you to utilise professional-grade equipment that you would not have been able to afford otherwise. Furthermore, tool rental businesses sometimes provide professional assistance. You’re not just hiring a tool; you’re also getting access to years of experience that can help you get the most out of that tool. This is useful for both novice and experienced gardeners.
Carefully choosing, using, and maintaining your leased gardening equipment will help you to work efficiently and safely, save money, and achieve the best results in your garden project.
I’m not much of a “scatter seeds” type of gardener, but only because I haven’t had much luck with the process. However, I recently gave it another try in a client’s garden with a shady wildflower mix and….voila! Why this time? Maybe the stars were aligned or it was a full moon. Either way, it was in this miraculous floral show that I found my new favorite: Clarkias.
For the best advice and insider info on growing these pretty annuals, I spoke with Judith Larner, owner of Larner Seeds in Bolinas, California, and author of two gardening books. Judith is the ultimate seed, garden restoration, and Clarkia guru.
Please keep reading to learn more about this easy-to-grow flower:
Photography by Kier Holmes.
Above: The best time to sow Clarkias is mid to late fall.
“Clarkias are so easy. You don’t really need tips,” Judith tells me. Okay, but we are Clarkia newbies, I say. Tell us more.
Clarkias are annual wildflowers that were once called Godetias. They were named after William Clark of the famed Lewis and Clark expedition. You can find different species, varieties, and hybrids of Clarkias in wildflower mixes—or focus on your favorite. But all, like Judith mentions, are easy to sow and grow, and even a cinch to collect their seeds (unlike explosive California poppies.) “Like most wildflowers, we sow them in the mid to late fall. And if you space them out, sowing every two weeks or so, you will have a long bloom period,” she says.
Judith recommends preparing a weed-free seed area before you sow, because if you just scatter the seeds without de-weeding, you run the risk of the flower getting out-competed. You can plant starts instead, of course, either from four-inch pots or larger one-gallon pots, but sowing your own seeds is often more satisfying. “It’s a skill every Californian gardenista should consider having,” says Judith. (Visit her site for more information on sowing annual wildflowers.)
Above: A medley of wildflowers, including Clarkias.
We’re back for a second day of enjoying the beauty of late summer and early fall in Maxine Brisport’s Rotterdam, New York, garden.
Classic blooms of the late summer garden include Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ (Zones 3–9) in the front, black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckiafulgida, Zones 3–9) in the back, and the tall spire of a dark-leaved Actaeasimplex (Zones 4–8) in between.
So many beautiful plants are growing together in this part of the garden.
Astilbe (Zones 4–8) flowers are beautiful in early summer, but they take on a different kind of beauty at the end of the year as they age to brown and the leaves begin to flush yellow.
Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ is a huge hit with pollinators like this little honeybee, which is busy collecting the pollen and nectar that will keep the hive fed through the winter.
Hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus hybrids, Zones 5–9) flowers in tight bud are ready to unfurl into huge blooms that are the highlight of the summer garden.
A beautiful rose looks like it is glowing in the sun.
This tapestry of late summer blooms includes black-eyed Susans and fresh pink autumn anemones (Anemonehuphensis, Zones 4–8).
Autumn-blooming anemones are so fresh and beautiful in the fall—a great contrast to much of the garden at this time, which is beginning to fade into dormancy.
This beautiful garden setting comes with a place to sit and enjoy it.
And here’s another place to sit and enjoy the garden, while being completely surrounded by flowers.
What’s looking good in your garden as summer slips into fall? We’d love to see photos of it on the GPOD!
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
My taste in plants is not exactly traditional. Somewhere along the line, when my gardening priorities shifted toward sustainability, my passion for pretty things morphed into an appreciation for survivalists. I’m fascinated by the ways in which plants have evolved to withstand voracious herbivores and fluctuating climate extremes. The tougher a plant is, the more I like it.
Where I garden in southwestern Oregon, we have a pseudo-Mediterranean climate that is becoming more of a wild card, as well as hordes of desensitized deer and exploding populations of various tunneling critters. Every year these conditions seem to intensify in different and unpredictable ways. So when I call a lethal-looking or odorous plant nasty, it is the ultimate compliment. This plant has harnessed the awesome powers of nature to thrive defiantly against all odds. Gardeners can employ the nasty properties of such plants as effective defenses in our ongoing battle to create beautiful, beneficial, and enduring gardens.
Thorny plants will keep the herbivores moving along
Grazing animals prefer their meals without a side of spikes or spines, so a hearty helping of prickly plants will help to dissuade those hungry beasts from treating your borders like a buffet. Plant the following nasties with care, in a spot where you can enjoy their fierce beauty from a distance.
‘Li’ jujube protects its sweet fruit with sharp thorns
Photo: Joshua McCullough
Name:Ziziphus jujuba ‘Li’
Zones: 6–9
Size: 15 to 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to dry soil
Native range: China
Jujubes are uncommon fruit trees that are usually sought out only by food foresters and folks who are culturally in the know. However, they deserve much wider recognition for their outstanding toughness and ornamentality. They have glossy, dark green foliage and a slightly weeping habit, especially when laden with a fall crop. The branches grow in a quirky zigzag pattern with vicious little thorns at each corner, particularly on new growth. Deftly avoiding late frosts, the tiny, pale green flowers fill the air with their light fragrance from early to midsummer. This durable tree actually prefers long, hot summers, which aid in ripening its copious fruits, and it can be quite drought tolerant once established. Regular pruning is not required, and it is untroubled by pests or diseases, though birds may take a share of the fruit. ‘Li’ is a variety prized for being more reliably self-fertile and for its large fruits, which taste like dry, crisp apples when fresh and more akin to dates when dried.
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; adaptable to most soil types with good drainage
Native range: China, the Himalayas
Photo: Joshua McCullough
Winged thorn rose is distinctive among species roses, which are a massive and resilient group with significant wildlife value. I discovered it early in my nursery tenure and was immediately captivated; a rose whose thorns are its most prominent feature is nastiness encapsulated. New stems are trimmed out in translucent red thorns that are uniquely beautiful when backlit by morning or evening sun. Petite, blue-tinged pinnate foliage softens the display, along with a springtime explosion of white, sweetly fragrant, single blooms. As long as it gets enough sun, winged thorn rose will put up with a variety of challenges, including heavy clay and a spare watering regime. Prune out a third of the oldest canes annually in late winter to keep it freshly supplied with colorful first-year growth. This keeps its natural vase shape intact and leaves enough old wood for an abundant floral show followed by red rose hips.
Size: 6 to 18 inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide
Conditions: Full sun; lean, sharply drained soil
Native range: Middle to high-elevation areas of western and central North America
A deep dive into the hardy cactus world reveals more than 90 Opuntia species native to the United States, so no matter where you live there is a prickly pear suited for your conditions. Plains prickly pear is the most widely distributed species, with countless named selections, subspecies, and hybrids that showcase an amazing array of forms and flower colors. In early summer, the showy, cup-shaped blooms support numerous pollinators, including many butterflies and moths. Bulbous, berry-toned fruits add a second wave of interest, and though these are commonly dry at maturity, they are still foraged by wildlife. Naturally dwarf in habit, this prickly pear spreads to form tightly packed colonies that are perfect for hellstrips and rock gardens. Obviously, the barbed spines are a natural defense mechanism, but along with the smaller clustered spines, called glochids, they also act as sun reflectors to protect the leaf pads.
Gnarly textures are appealing to the eye but unappetizing to animals
Tough leaves are a turnoff for foragers, but these resilient foliar textures are often very attractive additions to a garden design. Planting an architectural yucca, a glossy tea olive, or a prickly poppy is the perfect way to spike a garden bed with textural appeal.
‘Sasaba’ holly tea olive is stunning when lightly pruned
Photo: courtesy of Andy Pulte
Name:Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Sasaba’
Zones: 6b–10
Size: 4 to 9 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average, well-drained soil
Native range: Japan, Taiwan
When I first saw ‘Sasaba’ holly tea olive, the wildly different texture of its lethally pointed leaves put stars in my eyes. It has a sculptural quality that is rare in broadleaf evergreens—rigidly bold and eccentric without the wispy ranginess associated with many shrubs. If you are willing to brave the barbaric foliage, a little selective shaping will transform ‘Sasaba’ from a great barrier shrub into a worthy centerpiece, even in a garden plagued by browsing animals. In fall or early winter, tiny white flowers cluster around the leaf axils, sweetly perfuming the air and drawing attention before they are visibly noticeable. The dark, glossy leaves are set off beautifully by bright gold, chartreuse, or variegated neighbors. ‘Sasaba’ has a rugged makeup that allows it to handle heat and poor soil conditions, even clay, with ease. It can also take quite a bit of shade. Only occasional pruning is needed to maintain a stellar shape.
‘Sapphire Skies’ beaked blue yucca looks sharp and sophisticated
‘Sapphire Skies’ elevates its genus to new heights, with architectural perfection that makes it a wonderfully audacious focal point for a dry, sunny location. This especially hardy cultivar was collected and selected by well-known plantsman Sean Hogan. As the plant ages, it slowly forms a trunk that you can highlight by removing lower leaves, revealing the intricate geometric patterns created by the cut ends. A starburst of flexible, platinum blue blades sits atop the trunk. Do not be deceived by the foliage’s flimsy appearance; it still packs a sharp punch at the tips if it is approached too casually. Full sun and excellent drainage are the keys for success and steady growth; planting in rich soil or too much shade will soften and green up its steely demeanor. As it gains maturity, fat Seussian spikes of ivory bells erupt from its apex, a celebratory summer event for appreciative pollinators, hummingbirds, and humans.
Horned poppy pairs frosty foliage with sunny blooms
Photo: gapphotos.com/Jonathan Buckley
Name:Glaucium flavum
Zones: 6–9
Size: 18 to 24 inches tall and wide
Conditions: Full sun; lean, sharply drained soil
Native range: Coastal Europe, North Africa, western Asia
With plenty of savage attributes plus an affinity for hellish hot spots and lean, gravelly soil, horned poppy is one tough dude. It looks amazing in winter, especially when the deeply incised, wavy-edged leaf stalks are crisply outlined in frost and its silvery blue color feels like something out of an arctic fantasy. Its bristly texture deters browsing critters, and since all parts are poisonous, especially the roots, underground tunnelers will also leave it alone. In early to midsummer, honey-gold blooms glow against the glaucus foliage, followed by 6- to 12-inch, upward-curving seedpods. Like many poppies, this one can be short-lived and tricky to transplant due to its taproot. However, you can easily collect seed from the hornlike pods to sprinkle about, or simply leave the pods intact and celebrate the subsequent bounty of seedlings.
Stinky plants can serve as bodyguards for tastier neighbors
If herbivores smell something nasty from a distance, they may choose to avoid the area to seek out a sweeter-smelling meal elsewhere. Planting something unpleasantly aromatic can therefore deter animals from browsing in its general vicinity, allowing you to sneak in a few plants that might otherwise tempt them. Here are some odiferous favorites.
‘Sea Foam’ artemisia is the perfect foil for bright blooms
Size: 12 to 18 inches tall and 24 to 30 inches wide
Conditions: Full sun; lean, well-drained soil
Native range: Garden origin
Topping the short list of artemisias worth collecting, this introduction from esteemed garden designer Lauren Springer is a fabulous juxtaposition of delicate appearance and staunch constitution. All aspects of the contorted, finely textured foliage are biologically adapted to endure punishingly hot and dry environments, and it has the classic aroma of sun-warmed chaparral sage brush that deters critters both large and small. Mid to late summer brings creamy wands of tiny dangling blooms extending from the branch tips, adding a wispy yet dry dimension to the overall texture. If these inconspicuous nubbins are not your cup of tea, they can be pruned away for a cleaner look. ‘Sea Foam’ has been deciduous in my garden, which I actually find advantageous. Giving the woody stems a hard chop in early spring is an easy way to avoid the unsightly ranginess that can factor against the larger evergreen members of this genus. Spreading slowly to form a broad, low mass, ‘Sea Foam’ mingles politely with neighbors, setting off contrasting foliage and bright blooms beautifully. It is perfect at the front of a baking border, in a hellstrip, or as a coral substitute in that under-the-sea-themed rock garden you’ve always wanted to create.
Gray creeping germander is a stalwart that loves lean soil, ample sun, and heat. A perfect ever-silver edger, it is ideal for adding color to xeric borders, along paths, or draping over masonry walls. When brushed or crushed, the foliage emits a fruity herbal smell much more aromatic than that of its cousins. Starting in late spring its flat, mauve-tinted buds slowly open to smother the broad mat of needle-like leaves in light plum flowers. Their aroma has a fruity undertone, with pungent, overly ripe notes combined with hints of rich honey. The scent is right on the cusp between pleasant and foul, so how it is perceived is subjective, but bees and other pollinators are less persnickety and relish the feast. Once the floral party commences, lightly shearing the whole patch keeps things neat and tidy and is the only annual maintenance needed. If in time this germander starts to look mangy, you can give it a harder haircut in early spring.
‘October Skies’ aromatic aster doesn’t smell bad to humans, but deer think it stinks
Photo: Carol Collins
Name:Symphyotrichum oblongifolium ‘October Skies’
Zones: 5–8
Size: 18 to 24 inches tall and 24 to 30 inches wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; lean to average soil
Native range: Central and eastern United States
I know what you’re thinking—how can an aster be nasty? A number of years ago I was on a mission to find a more drought-tolerant and deer-resistant aster for a pollinator garden. After much research, I came across this aromatic species that is native to rockier, drier soils, and it has not disappointed. The foliage is pungent enough to ward off even the most obnoxiously unpicky deer, and it seems to hold up well in triple-digit temperatures. It is invaluable for those tricky partial-sun spots that are still intensely hot, and it is also great on gentle slopes, where its rhizomatous roots help to prevent erosion and stabilize soil. It even abides clay and compacted soil. While many other asters finish blooming by the end of summer, in early fall ‘October Skies’ is just getting started. It’s hard to take the suspense, but once the silver-dollar-size, clear lavender daisies explode into a broad dome of color, you will know it was worth the wait.
Toxic plants are especially nasty, so proceed with caution
Plants that are poisonous must be treated with respect and should be planted away from edibles and other locations where children, pets, or livestock may be tempted to sample them. With the proper precautions in place, these sinister sirens will add another dimension of interest and pest resistance to your garden.
‘Arendsii’ azure monkshood brings lush color to the late-summer garden
Many plants are toxic to a degree, but monkshood is actually deadly if ingested. This lethal trait has kept it from being a perennial staple; nevertheless, the saturated color it brings to the garden after the spring crescendo deserves to be spotlighted. Dramatic panicles of hooded blooms festoon its extra stout stems in late summer, and deadheading can encourage a second wave of blooms in autumn. Tuberous roots and leathery foliage help the plant retain moisture, but it still prefers cooler temperatures and evenly moist soil. This can be tricky in excessively hot and dry climates, where afternoon shade is a must. A healthy mulch layer will also conserve moisture, but be careful to keep it clear of the crown to avoid rotting. Wear gloves and keep your skin covered when handling this plant, especially its roots and seeds.
Sunset foxglove lends a cottage vibe to a dry spot
Conditions: Full sun; dry to average, lean, well-drained soil
Native range: Spain, Portugal
This reliably perennial Iberian treasure does not require the ample shade and moisture preferred by traditional English cultivars. Completely at odds with its precocious woodland cousins, sunset foxglove thrives in sun-drenched, poor soil reminiscent of its Mediterranean homeland. Its straplike, leathery foliage remains evergreen in mild winters, though it can still benefit from a cutback in early spring. Summer brings racemes of rusty amber-orange blooms with molten interiors, hues that appeal to moody palettes. Site it among silvery counterpoints, or near plants with cream, plum, periwinkle, or chartreuse flowers. I only wish I’d discovered this unique foxglove sooner.
Narrow leaf milkweed shrugs off heat, drought, and bad soil
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions and moisture levels
Native range: Western United States
This irrepressible denizen of abandoned lots and sidewalk cracks is also surprisingly garden tolerant, even in clay. Unlike many wildflowers that rely on summer dormancy, it can manage without irrigation through intense heat and drought. Siting it in a hot, dry spot will keep it from colonizing rampantly by underground roots, as it can do in cushier conditions. It is a valuable host plant for monarch caterpillars, who protect themselves from predators by consuming its leaves and stems, which are laced with toxic alkaloids. The willowy foliage, which lends a grassy quality to plantings, is topped in early summer by flowers that inspire frenzied pollinator activity, followed by oblong seedpods filled with silky fluff. This milkweed makes an excellent filler for the neglected, challenging areas of your property. It is easiest to propagate from root division rather than from seed.
Advice for siting your favorite nasties
Working with a cast of delightfully devilish characters calls for a bit of extra planning and creativity. The trick is to maximize their best attributes while minimizing inadvertent exposure to their nastier qualities. Here are a few ideas to consider.
Illustration: Elara Tanguy
1. Backlighting heightens the drama
Place heavily textured plants where the rising or setting sun will create a spotlight and a glowing focal point.
2. Drainage is key
When growing desert dwellers and Mediterranean sorts, berming up your soil or adding gravel to the bottom of your planting hole can increase drainage at the root zone. Mulching with fine gravel helps keep moisture away from stems and foliage, particularly in winter.
3. Protect yourself
Wear thicker gloves and long sleeves when handling or pruning spiky or thorny plants. Old thrift-store kitchen tongs can be handy for picking up cacti, or you can just be sure to hold the pads carefully in the smooth areas between spines and glochids.
4. Pamper marginally hardy plants
Site plants that are not quite hardy to your area in protected microclimates close to a wall or foundation, under the shelter of a tree canopy, or on the leeward side of an evergreen wind barrier. Boulders can also be used as heat sinks to create sheltered nooks for small plants, and a well-placed sculpture or decorative panel might also do the trick.
5. Start heat lovers a little later
For plants that are sensitive to cold, wet weather, or freeze-thaw cycles, plant in late spring to early summer to get roots well established before winter. Stop watering early enough in fall to harden them off before the cold season.
6. Keep maintenance in mind
When choosing neighbors for your spiky plants, think about the ease of maintaining them in proximity to pokiness. The less pruning or weeding needed, the better.
7. Prevent plant attacks
Spiky or thorny plants should be sited away from paths, house foundations, and any other locations where they might injure someone.
Bonni Engelhardt is a landscape designer who lives and gardens in southern Oregon.
Sources
The following mail-order retailers offer many of the plants featured in this article:
Annie’s Annuals and Perennials, Richmond, CA; 510-215-330; anniesannuals.com
Dancing Oaks Nursery and Gardens, Monmouth, OR; 503-838-6058; dancingoaks.com
Digging Dog Nursery, Albion, CA; 707-937-1130; diggingdog.com
On Saturday we’ll be having another plant sale at the friendly little Atmore Flea Market, also known as “Poppy’s Antiques.”
New plants will be in stock, along with some rare seeds.
We will have:
Cassava Nitrogen-fixing Eleagnus pungens Palmetto (powerful medicinal berries) Mahonia fortunei (a lovely shade plant with edible berries) Chaste tree (medicinal and great for pollinators) An assortment of Lantana (one of our favorite garden flowers) Butterfly bush Honey locust Catawba (great native tree which attracts the best caterpillars for fish bait) Mulberry Papaya Okinawa spinach African blue basil Cat whiskers (pollinator plant and herb) Giant yellow timber bamboo …and more
A couple of weeks ago we planted a bed of daikon radishes from the seeds we saved in spring:
The radishes were a mix of large Japanese daikon types with Johnny’s “Red King II” hybrid daikon.
There were also some white egg-shaped daikons in the mix. Who knows what we’ll get now!
We just grew a roughly 4′ x 6′ patch of mixed types until they went to seed, then saved the seeds.
Now we have planted them for the second time this year, taking advantage of the cooler weather to see if we can get a harvest before the hard freezes come.
We planted them in bare soil, then mulched with some of the compost we made from a mix of expired bread and hay.
It’s been so dry that the compost didn’t break down completely, yet it makes nice mulch.
I originally wanted to leave the entire area covered in mulch, yet when we pulled our sweet potatoes there were a lot of weeds mixed in so we simply raked the mulch off the entire area and weeded it, then made a couple of raised beds, planted them, and now we’re re-mulching.
The worst of the weeds was Bermuda grass, which has a way of running through mulch and knitting it all together. Though it would have been ideal to keep the ground covered, we live in an imperfect world, so we simply through the mulch and the Bermuda grass and other weeds over the fence to the chickens and started with a clean slate.
It will be fascinating to see how these daikons turn out. The Red King II hybrid is a really excellent radish and I hope its genetics can be carried over into a stable open-pollinated variety.
I probably shouldn’t have mixed multiple other radishes with it, but it’s too late now. We’ll roll the dice and see what happens.
All the radishes we harvested were pretty good this year. Perhaps we’ll get an even better race over time which is adapted to Lower Alabama.
Using the right type of soil for plumerias is key to their overall good health, whether they are in containers or the ground.
Using the wrong soil can cause problems, and even harm or kill your frangipani, so it’s crucial to get it right.
In this post I’m going to tell you everything you need to know about choosing the perfect plumeria soil, and I’ll share my recipe and guidelines for making your own mix.
Read on to discover the perfect type to use, the properties it should have, and how to easily mix your own with my simple recipe.
What Kind Of Soil Do Plumerias Need?
When choosing the correct type of soil for your frangipani plant, it’s important to remember that they store excess water in their stems and branches.
This means they don’t like to be planted in a medium that retains moisture, and instead prefer a quick-draining soil.
Using the right kind will avoid common problems, such as lack of flowers, poor growth, overwatering, and root rot.
Plumerias also like their soil to be slightly acidic, as this makes it easier for them to absorb the nutrients they need.
Using a commercial potting mix is convenient, but it’s actually very quick and easy to make your own.
Not only is this often cheaper, but it also gives you complete control over the ingredients and consistency.
Either use my recipe below or – as an even simpler option – combine equal parts of pumice or perlite with coarse sand and regular potting soil.
Plumeria Soil Recipe
Below is my recipe for DIY plumeria soil. You can either make a small batch to use right away, or mix more and store the leftovers for another time.
I use a 1-gallon bucket to measure my parts, but you could use a scoop, measuring cup, or even a large spoon if you prefer.
Just be sure to use the same measuring container throughout for consistency.
Ingredients
Peat moss or coco coir – These can be used interchangeably and help improve water retention, aeration, and drainage.
Perlite or pumice – These can be substituted for each other. They help aerate the soil and stop it from retaining too much moisture.
Coarse sand– Sand helps create tiny air pockets in the soil, allowing water to drain freely and making it easier for roots to grow. Suitable substitutes include turface and poultry grit.
Pine bark – Although it’s not essential, this enriches the soil with organic matter as it breaks down, improving its structure and helping it retain nutrients. You could use orchid bark or coco coir chips instead.
Here are my answers to the most commonly asked questions about plumeria soil. If you don’t see yours listed, please add it to the comments section below.
What is the best potting soil for plumeria?
The best potting soil for plumeria is a slightly acidic, nutrient rich, porous, sandy medium that drains quickly. You can either use a commercial mix, or make your own using my recipe.
Is it OK to plant plumerias in regular potting soil?
Yes, you can use succulent soil for plumeria plants, since it drains well and has the pH level that they prefer.
Can you use cactus soil for plumeria?
I do not recommend using cactus soil for your plumeria, because it’s usually too gritty. If you want to use it, I recommend amending it with organic materials like coir, peat moss, or general purpose potting soil.
If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!
More About Potting Soils
Share your tips for the best soil for plumeria, or your favorite homemade recipe in the comments section below.
Recipe & Instructions
How To Make Plumeria Soil
Learn to make your own plumeria soil with my step-by-step instructions. Discover the tools and ingredients you’ll need, how to measure and mix them, and my tips for safely storing any leftovers.
Prep Time 15 minutes
Active Time 5 minutes
Total Time 5 minutes
Difficulty Easy
Notes
I recommend wearing a dust mask when mixing your own potting soil to avoid breathing in any harmful particles.
Be sure to pre-moisten the coco coir and/or peat moss before measuring your parts, as they tend to expand once moist.
It’s very important to store any leftover soil in a container with an airtight lid, otherwise bugs and pathogens can get in.
Make sure you label the container clearly, as homemade potting mixes can appear very similar.
If you want gardening season to start with a beautiful bang, then winterhazels are the shrubs for you.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
The first guest to show up at a party can really set its tone. A notorious party animal dials the energy up to 11, while a shy attendant with a board game in hand brings a more laid-back vibe.
Not if the game is Monopoly, though – that’ll ruin relationships in a violent, flip-the-table-over fashion. But I digress…
In the garden, winterhazel’s early-blooming flowers burst with color well before other plants, and forecast that spring is coming soon, in style. After the blooms come the leaves, which add some magnificent mass to the shrub’s multi-stemmed habit.
An all-around delightful addition to the landscape, species of Corylopsis are easy to grow and care for.
To make the process even easier, this guide provides all the cultivation know-how you’ll need.
Here’s what we’re getting into:
What Are Winterhazel Plants?
Belonging to the Hamamelidaceae family alongside witch hazels and fothergilla, winterhazels include 25 species of deciduous woody shrubs from the Corylopsis genus.
For the most part, they are hardy in USDA Zones 6 to 8, except for C. glabrescens, which is hardy down to Zone 5.
The various winterhazel species originate in the East Asian countries of China, Japan, North Korea, South Korea, and Taiwan, where they’re found growing in clearings, within woodlands, and on mountainous slopes.
There aren’t huge differences between the species, so it can be tough to differentiate them. But on the flip side, their similarities makes it easy to spot Corylopsis in a landscape.
Winterhazels have spreading, multi-stemmed forms that can reach heights and spreads of four to 15 feet, depending on the species.
These shrubs also have slow growth rates, with gently zig-zagging stems that are covered with smooth-textured bark in light shades of tan, brown, or gray.
In late winter or early spring, hanging clusters of many small, fragrant, pale gold to greenish-yellow flowers will blossom, which are quite attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds.
If they’re pollinated, they’ll later give way to small, unremarkable fruit capsules, each containing two small, black seeds.
After the flowers bloom, the oval-shaped, deeply veined, and toothed leaves emerge in spring.
Depending on the species, they may start out bronze to reddish-purple before maturing to a light to dark green hue. Come fall, they’ll either turn yellow or retain their green color before falling.
Cultivation and History
Essentially meaning “hazel-like,” the genus name Corylopsis is totally fitting, given how much winterhazel leaves look like those of Corylus species, or true hazel plants.
Actual hazel leaves, for comparison.
Ever since they were introduced into western horticulture from Asia around the late 19th to early 20th century, winterhazels have earned appreciation from many temperate gardeners for their beauty and early bloom times.
Winterhazel Propagation
Ready to board the Corylopsis train? Your best shot at getting some winterhazels in the ground is either by taking cuttings from a mature plant or transplanting juvenile specimens.
You can technically sow seeds to propagate new winterhazel plants, but since this involves several months of shifting temperature treatments and years of patience after germination occurs, it’s not recommended for newbies.
From Cuttings
For this method, you’ll need an established, mature winterhazel plant to take cuttings from.
In summer, take four- to six-inch cuttings from the ends of healthy shoots with a sterile blade.
Defoliate the bottom halves, and dip the cut ends into a rooting hormone such as Bonide’s IBA powder from Arbico Organics.
Fill four-inch containers with a soilless medium that provides both water retention and drainage, such as a 50:50 mix of peat moss and perlite.
Stick the bottom halves of each cutting into the containers, moisten the media, then set the containers somewhere indoors where they will receive bright, indirect light – a sunny windowsill is perfect.
Mist the cuttings each morning and keep the potting medium consistently moist.
In about two months or so, once the cuttings have rooted – which you can discern by gently tugging the stem – you can lay off the misting.
Newly-rooted winterhazel cuttings have weak, sensitive root systems, so it’s best to keep them in place through the winter until the following growing season.
Once new growth resumes and the local final frost date has passed, they’re ready for hardening off.
To do this, bring the rooted cuttings outside into full sun to partial shade for 30 to 60 minutes before bringing them back inside.
Add a half to a full hour of exposure each following day until the cuttings can withstand a full day of being outside.
At this point, it’s transplanting time!
Transplanting
Whether you’ve got hardened off cuttings that you rooted or ready-to-transplant winterhazel specimens that you’ve purchased, transplanting is pretty simple.
After the first frost-free date in spring, prepare planting sites in well-draining, loamy to sandy soils with a pH of 5.0 to 6.5. Space these sites about as far apart as you expect the transplants to eventually spread at maturity.
Dig holes as deep as and slightly wider than the transplants’ root systems. Gingerly ease the transplants from their containers or burlap wrappings, then gently lower them into their holes.
Mix some humus such as compost or well-rotted manure with the dug-out soil, and begin backfilling.
Alternate additions of soil and water until you’re left with fully planted and watered-in specimens. After that, pat yourself on the back for a job well done!
How to Grow Winterhazel
Whether you’ve just transplanted new winterhazel shrubs or you’re attending to the ones already in your landscape, the right kind of TLC makes all the difference.
Climate and Exposure Needs
First things first: winterhazels are hardy in USDA Zones 6 to 8… unless you’re growing C. glabracens, which is hardy in Zone 5 as well.
These plants do well in full sun to partial shade, depending on their role in the landscape and the ambient climate.
Though it’s important to note that more sunlight typically results in better blooms over the long haul.
If you’re gardening in Zone 6 with lots of open space for specimen plantings, opt for full sun. Have a woodland garden in Zone 8 that could use some understory shrubs?
It’s fine to select a planting area with more shade. If you choose a spot under deciduous trees, then don’t forget that you’ll have more exposure and less shade when the trees are bare.
Either way, some protection from wind is advisable – the blooms are delicate, especially in late winter without any leaves to shield them.
Try placing winterhazels next to buildings, walls, or tall lines of evergreens such as arborvitae.
Soil Needs
The recommended soil conditions for transplanting – organic, a bit acidic, and well-draining – are also ideal for established specimens.
To maintain that organic composition, work a couple inches of humus into the root zone each spring.
Water Needs
Species of Corylopsis love moderate moisture, and can even withstand moderate drought. But that’s moderate, not severe – don’t be treating these shrubs like cacti or anything.
Irrigation-wise, deeply water the root zone whenever the top couple inches of soil dry out.
Growing Tips
Winterhazel blooms benefit from protection from wind.
Each spring, be sure to amend the root zone with organic matter.
Irrigate whenever the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry to the touch.
Pruning and Maintenance
Aside from promptly removing dead, diseased, or damaged tissues, there’s not much that needs to be done for these plants, pruning-wise.
If you want to encourage a particular shape or size, prune away no more than a third of the shrub’s aboveground mass after the flowers fade in late spring to summer.
You could also clip branches when they’re in bloom to enjoy their scent indoors in floral arrangements.
When the spent flowers fall, and later the leaves, feel free to rake them all up for a neater, more sanitary environment.
But if you’ve got a woodland garden going, you can leave them be, as fallen leaves can actually add to the natural aesthetic and help to enrich the soil.
To protect the roots, conserve moisture, and suppress weed growth, be sure to maintain a few inches of mulch above the root zone. If that layer starts to become thin, mid-spring and fall are perfect mulching times.
Winterhazel Species to Select
As of this writing, there are 25 currently recognized species of Corylopsis. That’s enough for an advent calendar, if you like the idea of counting down to Christmas with winterhazel shrubs…
Here are my top three favorites:
Buttercup
Native to western Japan and Taiwan, C. pauciflora blooms a bit earlier than other species.
It flaunts pale yellow blooms in clusters of two to five flowers and bright green leaves with distinct, sunken veins.
With a mature height and spread of four to six feet, the buttercup winterhazel is the perfect choice if you’re looking for an especially dainty Corylopsis.
Fragrant
Hailing from Japan, C. glabrescens reaches heights and spreads of eight to 15 feet, sporting dark green leaves.
Named for the especially strong scent of its pale yellow blooms, fragrant winterhazel is hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 8, making it the obvious choice for Corylopsis growers in more northern gardens.
Spike
Another Japanese native, C. spicata reaches a mature height of four to eight feet, with a spread up to twice as wide.
The blooms on this winterhazel are especially colorful – at the center of the yellow petals are brown, purple, or red anthers held up on pink filaments.
Add leaves that emerge in an attractive shade of purple before maturing to a lovely blue-green, and you have the most colorful entry on our list.
Managing Pests and Disease
Winterhazels are blessed with practically no serious pests or disease issues to worry about.
However, there are two potential problems you should be on the lookout for: Japanese beetle infestations and root rot.
Japanese Beetles
An invasive species from the Land of the Rising Sun, Popilliajaponica is a common pest that’s found throughout the eastern United States, although it’s slowly spreading westward.
With a metallic green head and thorax, coppery brown wing covers, and a body length of up to half an inch, adult Japanese beetles primarily hurt winterhazels by chewing conspicuous holes in their leaves.
Along with looking ugly and skeletonizing leaves, this feeding damage hinders photosynthesis and overall plant growth.
The simplest form of control is “soapy death,” where you knock pests into a bucket of soapy water that holds them below the surface as they drown. A grisly end, no doubt… but as the John Wick movies have shown us four times now, attacks on what you hold dear require extreme retaliation.
Be sure to strike in the morning or evening, when it’s cool. Less heat means less energy to dodge your efforts.
Of course, you could always spray your plants with neem oil or pyrethrin-based insecticides.
Bonide sells neem oil in ready-to-use or concentrated form at Arbico Organics, and PyGanic sells their OMRI-certified, pyrethrin-based product in various volumes at Arbico Organics as well.
Just like many other plants with moderate water needs, species of Corylopsis like water, but not too much. If a winterhazel has “wet feet,” then its roots won’t receive the oxygen that they need.
Without oxygen, the roots become necrotic and die. This is bad news for the shoots above the soil line, which become wilted, stunted, and discolored.
When it comes to root rot, prevention is way better than attempts at a cure. In the case of winterhazel, this means allowing the top couple inches of soil to dry before watering, as well as planting them in well-draining soil from the get-go.
For smaller afflicted specimens that you can handle, dig them up – or hire a landscaping professional to help you lift larger ones – and examine their roots.
If less than half are rotted, cut them away and replant in an area with better drainage. If the majority of the roots are symptomatic, then you can go ahead and pitch it – the specimen may not be worth the effort to keep alive.
Best Uses of Winterhazel
Winterhazels are the perfect shrubs for those who want to dot their late winter landscape with some early blooms. But to optimize their potential, certain spots are better than others.
Given their origins, winterhazels look fantastic in Asian-themed gardens alongside plants such asJapanese maples and Japanese black pines. As understory shrubs, they also aesthetically support large trees in woodland gardens.
For landscapes with less of an overarching theme, winterhazel can really stand out as specimen plantings or as part of a shrub border.
Pale gold to greenish-yellow/light green to dark green
Native to:
East Asia
Water Needs:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
5 or 6-8, depending on species
Maintenance:
Low
Bloom Time:
Late winter to early spring
Tolerance
Moderate drought
Exposure:
Full sun to partial shade
Soil Type:
Organic, loamy to sandy
Time to Maturity:
Up to 3 years (flowering), up to 10 years (full size)
Soil pH:
5.0-6.5
Spacing:
Width of mature spread
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Depth of root system (transplants)
Attracts:
Butterflies, hummingbirds
Height:
4-15 feet
Uses:
Asian gardens, shrub borders, specimen plantings, winter gardens, woodland gardens
Spread:
4-15 feet
Family:
Hamamelidaceae
Growth Rate:
Slow
Genus:
Corylopsis
Common Pests and Diseases:
Japanese beetles; root rot
Species:
Glabracens, pauciflora, spicata
Find Your Bliss with Corylopsis
Happiness can be tough to find and even tougher to hold onto. But having a winterhazel in your landscape certainly makes it easier.
You’re sure to have a grand ol’ time growing and caring for these shrubs. And when you see their blooms for the first time, just remember: spring is about to be sprung!
Still have questions? Want to share your own experiences with winterhazel? Head on down to the comments section below.
You wake up one morning and something is different, there is a specific chill in the air that, while not cold, is the first indication that the frostier, winter months are approaching. As usual, this tells us to consider getting coats and jackets out from the loft and ready the home for the upcoming wintry season, but what about the garden, plants, and fresh produce? Having sat out all summer in a backyard lavish with greenery, picking fresh fruit and veg from your allotment for lunches and dinners, is this not something to protect to ensure you can enjoy the same luxuries next summer?
And what if this is your business? As a commercial farmer or perhaps you’re a nursery owner with an avid enthusiasm for all things green and leafy, then you need something to protect and maintain your stock during the off-season.
The changing weather patterns are inevitable, and so our preparations and precautions for those should be too, and when it comes to food and plant harvest it is no different. This season, before the bite of winter wakes you up in the dark mornings, let’s make sure everything is ready and in place and your garden, fields, and produce are protected. Simple, yet effective elements to implement into your routine can make a big impact for the future, and more so for the following years’ seasons, so let’s dive in and see how you can maintain your harvest this winter.
It’s never too late to start
If you have ever been to an allotment, farmland, or smallholding you will most likely have seen structures (made from glass, plastic, or durable weather-resistant materials) filled with all sorts of plants, trees, flowers, and fruit or vegetables. These are called greenhouses and are the epitome of winter harvest maintenance.
As a business owner, it is essential that you shield your crop from damage caused by climate events and changes, this means tending to the produce and plants themselves as well as the structures housing them. Consider these tips for the forthcoming chilly months and once they are in place it is easier to maintain throughout the year.
Summer maintenance
∙Watering and irrigation systems need to be checked, repaired if necessary, and then maintained because if uneven watering occurs it can cause a lot of issues.
∙Greenhouses can get warm quickly, open the doors and windows to encourage adequate ventilation, but keep an eye on the level of shading or lack thereof. Too much could cause a drop in the growth rate of produce, too much could cause ‘sunburn.’
∙New growths should be tied as early as possible to support sticks or trellises to strengthen during summer to survive the winter.
Winter maintenance
∙Once the cold has arrived regularly check the structure of the greenhouse for damage and repair immediately, also try to keep the glazing and glass as clean as possible.
∙Monitoring conditions can be done by feel and touch, but a thermometer will offer the most accurate readings of temperatures.
∙Insulation is key, you can use fleecing or even bubble wrap to prevent heat loss and shield against frost, and if your greenhouse is heated regularly check the thermostat is in top working order.
Flowers and Food
Plants, shrubs, and bushes
Most greenhouse growers prefer using soil beds and containers rather than the ground because the soil mix is more fertile, lighter, and ideally should have a good combination of slow-releasing nutrients in. You also want to check that while the soil mix holds water well to hydrate the plant, it similarly needs to drain fast to prevent drenching and soggy roots causing rot.
Sow the seeds during the spring and summer months to stabilize their rooting system, and once winter arrives and they essentially go into a state of ‘hibernation,’ they will already have an established foundation ready to sprout again at the first sign of next spring.
Any already established bushes with or without fruit can still be protected outside of the greenhouse by adding mulch to the ground after a couple of initial frosty days to harden the ground, and the mulch then on top to keep heat and minerals locked in for the winter.
All things tasty
I love tasting homemade produce, it is just so much more flavourful, like you can taste the love and care that goes into their care. Planting fruit and veg takes a fine balance of timing and the current growing produce should only be moved to their final positions once they are solid and sturdy with climbing supports and ties integrated for tomatoes and climbing cucumber stalks.
The main objective of maintaining good vegetable growth all throughout winter is temperature maintenance. If temperatures are optimal veggies such as cabbage, beets, or broccoli can survive freezing temperatures and continue to grow for your picking the whole wintery season.
That being said
At the end of the day with a few simple guidelines and tips, you can be enjoying great food and flower harvests all year round, and a greenhouse is just the answer to make it happen. Here’s to happy harvesting.
This is part of a series with Perfect Earth Project, a nonprofit dedicated to toxic-free, nature-based gardening, on how you can be more sustainable in your landscapes at home.
After weeks of hot, muggy weather, the temperatures in the Northeast have cooled and we’re beginning to see the signs of fall—apple picking, here we come! Years ago, conventional wisdom at this time of year had us all putting “the garden to bed.” We’d clip, throw away, tidy nature up so the garden looked like a living room before a party—everything just so. But we now know better. So much of what we thought was trash is actually treasure—for flora and fauna. In our latest dispatch from Perfect Earth Project, founder Edwina von Gal shares her wisdom on what we can do now to make our gardens thrive for all living things.
Photography by Melissa Ozawa.
1. Don’t cut back perennials and grasses.
Above: Milkweed pods opened to expose their downy seeds amidst a sea of goldenrod. In addition to eating goldenrod seeds, birds like Goldfinches will use milkweed floss to line their nests.
Leave them during the winter so that they provide seeds for birds, shelter for insects and other animals—and sculptural visual interest in the cold months. Goldfinches, cardinals, grosbeaks, and other songbirds like to dine on the seeds of sunflowers, asters, echinacea, and other native flowers, so don’t deadhead these blooms once they have faded. Wait until spring to make your cuts when cavity-nesting insects, like native yellow-faced, leaf-cutter, and carpenter bees, as well as some moths and wasps, are looking for hollow stems to start their broods. You’ll know the time is right when you start seeing these insects buzzing about. Xerces Society recommends snipping stems in a variety of heights—from eight to 24 inches above ground—to entice different types of insects. And leave the clippings on the ground where they will decompose and nourish the soil. The new growth will cover it all up.
Above: Autumn meadow of asters and goldenrod provides habitat for insects and wildlife, as well as a buffet for insect-eating birds and later for seed eaters, like finches, when the flowers turn to seeds.
The one thing you do want to cut back, though, is invasive plants. Hack them to the ground before and cover with layers of cardboard to smother them. Also be careful not to let any pesky weeds go to seed. “You don’t want to leave them for the birds,” says von Gal. She removes any from her property and places them in a vinegar bath, before rinsing them and eventually adding them to her compost pile.
2. Do clean up the vegetable garden.
It’s good practice to clean up your vegetable garden. Remove spent plants, especially tomatoes, peppers, and other nightshades, which can harbor disease. “But don’t leave the soil bare,” says von Gal. “Plant a cover crop.” She likes field peas or pea shoots, which are also delicious to eat. “They do die back with frost, but they’ll form a mat which insulates the soil over the winter,” she says. “It’s like a nice warm blanket.” You can also cover beds with straw or dried leaves.
3. Plant native bulbs and your favorite spring ephemerals.
Above: Camassia are native to the U.S. and are frequented by native bees and other pollinators.
While you’re digging in your tulips and narcissus, add some native bulbs to your garden, such as Camassia (there are species native to different regions of the U.S.) and Brodiaea or Triteleia (a western spring-blooming bulb).
Fall is also an excellent time to plant spring ephemerals. You’ll be happy you did when those first native bleeding hearts, bloodroot, and trillium pop up in early spring after a long winter. Planting now helps the roots get established, giving them a head start for spring. Von Gal also recommends adding a plant stake when you place new herbaceous plants, especially if starting with tiny plugs. Winter is long and it’s easy to forget what went where. A stake helps keep track of them in the spring, so they don’t accidentally get weeded out.
Today we’re in Rotterdam, New York, visiting with Maxine Brisport.
Each year I gaze in wonderment of the beauty that graces my upstate New York garden—from the brilliant yellow of the gold forsythia shrub that tells me that spring has arrived, to the beauty of the white-and-pink anemone signaling that fall is looming. Now I am preparing myself to bid goodbye to another year of glorious blooms, with the satisfaction that I nurtured each plant as it battled one of the hottest summers, while feeding the bees and butterflies.
Although the brilliant blooms are fading, the joy of knowing that they will return next year creates an endless smile.
Snow-on-the-mountain (Euphorbiamarginata, annual) is a widespread North American native. The small white flowers are not very noticeable, but the white-edged bracts that surround them make quite a beautiful show.
The late summer garden is beautiful, with so much diversity of color and texture from a wide range of perennials.
That’s a gorgeous shade of blue. This type of hibiscus (Hibiscussyriacus, Zones 5–9) is a shrub that blooms heavily from mid to late summer.
A dahlia (Dahliavariabilis, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb) blooms just opening. Dahlias always seem to reach peak flower right at the end of summer.
Could this unfurling rosebud be any more perfect? Often the cooler temperatures of early fall allow roses to show off their very best.
I love the diversity of this garden. Tall Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium sp., Zones 4–9) blooms in the back, with clouds of black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckiafulgida, Zones 3–9) flowering away in front. A bold orange canna (Canna hybrid, Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb) provides a contrast in texture in the center.
A closer look highlights the contrasting textures and colors of foliage and flowers.
An inviting path is flanked by hostas and black-eyed Susans.
A couple of feathered friends enjoy a bath.
This Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ (Zones 3–9) is living up to its name with masses of pink flowers that pollinators love and will transform into brown seed heads that will look good all winter.
We’ll be back tomorrow to see more of Maxine’s beautiful garden.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
When I first saw the gorgeous blooms on ranunculus flowers, I didn’t think growing them here in the low desert of Arizona was possible. I’m glad I was wrong. Learning how to grow ranunculus is easier than you think.
The stunning rose-like blooms with tissue-thin petals almost don’t look real. Ranunculus blooms come in nearly every color on tall stems. With these five tips, learn how to grow ranunculus (even if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona).
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Ranunculus
1. Plant ranunculus at the right time
Ranunculus grows best in spring-like temperatures of about 55°F with plenty of sunlight.
In zones seven and warmer, there are two planting windows — late fall and again in late winter or early spring. For zones cooler than zone 7, plant in the spring after the danger of frost is passed.
In the low desert of Arizona, plant ranunculus corms from October to November and again from February to March (Presprout corms if planting in February – March)
October 24November 16November 30January 23March 5March 26
Floret’s top choices for ranunculus varieties are the La Belle Series, which includes Salmon, Champagne, Orange, Pink Picotee, and Pastel Mix.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Soak corms before planting
Ranunculus are grown from claw-like ‘corms’ — a swollen underground plant stem that stores the nutrients for the plant until needed. Look for large corms, which have more stored energy and will grow larger with more blooms. I’ve had the best luck with corms from Easy To Grow.
Soak the corms in tepid water for 3 to 4 hours (not longer). The corms will absorb the moisture and often double in size.
3. Plant ranunculus correctly
Ranunculus grows best in rich, healthy, well-draining soil with plenty of sunlight. Add several inches of compost and a balanced organic fertilizer to the soil before planting.
Plant corms 2-3 inches deep and about 6 inches apart. Place ranunculus corms in the ground with the claws facing down. Fill the hole back in with soil and water well. Do not water again until sprouts appear above ground.
Overall, ranunculus is an easy plant to grow and is pest and disease-resistant.
Ranunculus needs plenty of sunlight to grow well. Ranunculus grows best in moist soil but does not like overwatering. If soil is not well-draining, ranunculus corms often rot.
SPECIAL NOTE: All parts of ranunculus are poisonous when ingested. The plant sap may cause skin irritation. Poison is not residual in the soil; only the plant is poisonous.
5. Enjoy ranunculus blooms
Corms planted in the fall typically bloom for about six weeks.Spring-planted corms bloom for about four weeks, depending on the weather. Once temperatures heat up, the blooms will stop.
In the low desert of Arizona, you can expect blooms to begin in February for fall-planted corms and continue through May for spring-planted corms.
For the longest vase life (10-12 days!) harvest when buds are colored and “squishy like a marshmallow” but not yet open. If they are harvested after opening, the blooms last about a week. Use a floral preservative to encourage long vase life.
Deadheading plants encourage more blooms.
When blooms finish, and the leaves begin to yellow and die back, cut the foliage off and stop watering. Allow the corms to dry out and go dormant.
If desired, dig up dormant corms and store them in a cool, dry place until it is time to plant next season.
When growing ranunculus for cut flowers, it is best to treat it as an annual and plant new corms each year.
They’re here for a good time, not a long time. Yes, I’m talking about annual tulips! These beautiful spring flowers make a huge impact when they pop out of the ground after the winter. Annual tulips are some of the more expressive cut flowers, so let’s talk about how you can start planting tulips now for enjoyment later!
Tulips are a surprisingly hardy plant. They thrive in the cold, using the winters to charge up so they can shoot through the ground at the first sight of spring. After a cold and rainy winter in Vancouver, I know I can rely on them to brighten my spirits.
I’ve been talking tons about tulips lately, as I find them to be a lot more complex than people think. While they are one of the easiest ornamental flowers to grow for many, they do require the right conditions to thrive.
People also don’t realize that there are many different types of tulips, and they all don’t grow the same. So, if you thought you could just pop any bulb in the ground and call it a day, you might want to read the label a little more carefully.
Here’s the lowdown on annual tulips, the tulips that last one season only.
Are Tulips Annual?
When people ask me why their tulips aren’t coming back, I say that chances are they’re buying the wrong ones. Many tulips aren’t perennials. Due to hybridizing, many tulips have lost the perennial trait over the years in favour of other characteristics.
Annual tulips are arguably the showiest types of tulips. They’re bred solely for appearance, so annual tulips come in an array of colours, patterns, and even textures.
Some of the most fun and bold types of tulips include double late, parrot, fringed, and triumph. To understand more about the difference between annual and perennial tulips, check out this post on the types of tulips.
Parrot tulip
How to Plant Annual Tulips
Growing tulips that last one season isn’t much different than growing perennial tulips. You want to put them in loose and rich soil. They prefer full sun but can handle the shade as well.
Place them in the ground with the roots facing down and the pointy ground up. You want to plant the tulip bulbs about 2-3 times the bulb’s height. With tulips, the deeper, the better. You’ll get stronger stalks by planting them deep.
If you’re planting many bulbs, I recommend using a power planter. This allows you to get your bulbs deep enough without straining your wrist.
Add a layer of mulch over top and give them a good watering. At this point, you’re done! You don’t have to worry about watering or fertilizing the bulbs after planting them.
How to Plant Tulips in Containers
When planting tulips in containers, the process is pretty well the same as growing them in the ground, except you can pack a lot more tulips in containers. For more info, read this guide on layering tulips and other bulbs in a container.
If the ground is too frozen for planting, but it’s still fall, you can try planting tulips in containers instead. Ensure the pots are designed to withstand the winter, so no unglazed terracotta. Glazed ceramic, resin, and plastic pots are all good options.
It will also need to be a larger pot to hold enough soilto chill the bulbs without damaging them. The pot should be at least 15 inches deep. So you’ll have to pack many tulips in a container. Don’t worry; it makes for a stunning display.
Besides tulips, you can add other bulbs and flowers. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com.
How to Cut Tulips
Annual tulips are wonderful cut flowers. They’re specifically bred to have big blooms on sturdy stems, and annuals have more spectacular colours. Just think of all the flower farmers and their epic tulip crops.
Knowing when to cut tulips is key. You don’t want to cut them when they’re green and fully tight. Wait until they’ve opened up but aren’t quite in full bloom. Half their colour should show.
Avoid cutting flowers when it’s hot out. In the mornings, the tulips are hydrated the most. Carry a bucket and place any cut tulips right in the water while cutting them in the garden.
One tip to help the stems from going limp is to wrap them in some paper and then put them in a vase overnight before removing the paper and arranging them.
When you place the tulips in a vase, give them a fresh cut. Avoid putting leaves in water. Place the tulips away from direct sunlight. And yes, the tulips will continue to grow in the vase even after cutting.
Can I Overwinter My Tulips?
Tulips need the cold to bloom, which is why we plant them in the fall. So, the first winter is necessary for their growth.
Whether or not the tulips come back is uncertain. Annuals are tulips that last one season and are bred not to grow again, but sometimes you may get lucky. As I like to do with my bulbs, spring blooming or summer blooming, I leave them in the ground and don’t expect much. Then, who knows, maybe I’ll get lucky.
When I first saw the gorgeous blooms on ranunculus flowers, I didn’t think growing them here in the low desert of Arizona was possible. I’m glad I was wrong. Learning how to grow ranunculus is easier than you think.
The stunning rose-like blooms with tissue-thin petals almost don’t look real. Ranunculus blooms come in nearly every color on tall stems. With these five tips, learn how to grow ranunculus (even if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona).
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Ranunculus
1. Plant ranunculus at the right time
Ranunculus grows best in spring-like temperatures of about 55°F with plenty of sunlight.
In zones seven and warmer, there are two planting windows — late fall and again in late winter or early spring. For zones cooler than zone 7, plant in the spring after the danger of frost is passed.
In the low desert of Arizona, plant ranunculus corms from October to November and again from February to March (Presprout corms if planting in February – March)
October 24November 16November 30January 23March 5March 26
Floret’s top choices for ranunculus varieties are the La Belle Series, which includes Salmon, Champagne, Orange, Pink Picotee, and Pastel Mix.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Soak corms before planting
Ranunculus are grown from claw-like ‘corms’ — a swollen underground plant stem that stores the nutrients for the plant until needed. Look for large corms, which have more stored energy and will grow larger with more blooms. I’ve had the best luck with corms from Easy To Grow.
Soak the corms in tepid water for 3 to 4 hours (not longer). The corms will absorb the moisture and often double in size.
3. Plant ranunculus correctly
Ranunculus grows best in rich, healthy, well-draining soil with plenty of sunlight. Add several inches of compost and a balanced organic fertilizer to the soil before planting.
Plant corms 2-3 inches deep and about 6 inches apart. Place ranunculus corms in the ground with the claws facing down. Fill the hole back in with soil and water well. Do not water again until sprouts appear above ground.
Overall, ranunculus is an easy plant to grow and is pest and disease-resistant.
Ranunculus needs plenty of sunlight to grow well. Ranunculus grows best in moist soil but does not like overwatering. If soil is not well-draining, ranunculus corms often rot.
SPECIAL NOTE: All parts of ranunculus are poisonous when ingested. The plant sap may cause skin irritation. Poison is not residual in the soil; only the plant is poisonous.
5. Enjoy ranunculus blooms
Corms planted in the fall typically bloom for about six weeks.Spring-planted corms bloom for about four weeks, depending on the weather. Once temperatures heat up, the blooms will stop.
In the low desert of Arizona, you can expect blooms to begin in February for fall-planted corms and continue through May for spring-planted corms.
For the longest vase life (10-12 days!) harvest when buds are colored and “squishy like a marshmallow” but not yet open. If they are harvested after opening, the blooms last about a week. Use a floral preservative to encourage long vase life.
Deadheading plants encourage more blooms.
When blooms finish, and the leaves begin to yellow and die back, cut the foliage off and stop watering. Allow the corms to dry out and go dormant.
If desired, dig up dormant corms and store them in a cool, dry place until it is time to plant next season.
When growing ranunculus for cut flowers, it is best to treat it as an annual and plant new corms each year.
But if that’s as far as you’ve gone with Begonia Appreciation – the outdoor growing options – I’d like to invite you indoors.
Certain species will grow as perennials only in Zones 9 to 11 or 10 to 12, but they excel as year-round houseplants.
We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.
The worthy candidates for indoor growing include varieties that bloom indoors even in winter and plants from a couple of groups that produce dramatic, colorful foliage year-round.
As you might imagine, grown as houseplants, these varieties will need more care and attention than the typical outdoor hanging basket tossed at season’s end or the winter-hardy begonias that spread via bulbils each fall.
These indoor types don’t fend for themselves, but their lavish foliage, stately stems, and perhaps even clusters of blooms will pay back any extra effort.
Most importantly, these varieties can open up possibilities for folks who don’t have a garden bed or other outdoor space to grow ornamentals.
If you’re new to the idea of growing begonias inside, welcome! You have lots of fun options to look forward to.
Or are you here to troubleshoot issues with begonias growing in your home, or because you have a specific question about houseplant begonia care? If so, this guide will provide tips and answers for those with more experience, too.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
Cultivation and History
The Begonia genus includes more than 2,000 species native to parts of South America and other tropical areas worldwide.
In 1700, Franciscan monk and botanist Charles Plumier first described this genus and honored the then-governor of Santo Domingo, Michel Begon, with the name.
In the intervening centuries, the plants were brought from continent to continent, becoming especially popular in Europe. Begonias are now grown worldwide.
Because the species hybridize so readily, the available varieties are wildly diverse, though most have thick, fleshy stems.
Some are prized for their patterned, swirling leaves in beautiful shades, others their sprays of pink, red, or white blooms, and some hybrids deliver beauty in foliage and flowers.
Some grow on single stems, others creep along the ground on rhizomes, and others stem from tubers below the soil.
The choices are vast, but many varieties offer extra advantages as houseplants. Let’s take a look.
Types of Begonias That Thrive as Houseplants
While any type can be grown inside at least for a time in a container, some varieties are better houseplant candidates than others.
First, I’ll mention two that I wouldn’t select to grow year-round indoors.
The first is the hardy type, B. grandis, which grows via underground tubers. This type is unusual because it is hardy in Zones 6 to 9, areas that experience hard freezes in the winter.
While you can plant hardy types in containers to enjoy inside from spring to fall or dig the plants up to overwinter indoors, they will die back over the winter whether inside or out.
They sort of fall apart into heaps, which is a pretty unappealing trait in a houseplant. And they require temperatures in the 40 to 50°F range for overwintering so the average household climate won’t work.
I recommend reserving these blooming beauties for outdoor plots and containers and moving them into a shed or garage to survive the winter.
The best-known tuberous begonias,B. x tuberhybrida, are okay to enjoy as indoor plants during their growing and blooming season in the spring and summer. They’re hardy in Zones 9 to 11.
But they’re not optimal houseplants because they die in the winter when they’re dormant, which is not a glad sight in the houseplant display.
To keep them alive over winter, you must lift and store the tubers in a chilly spot and replant them in the weeks leading up to spring.
With those two less-than-ideal varieties out of the way, let’s get to the good part: the types that do not go dormant and can thrive indoors all year.
I’ll give my favorites, rex begonias (B. x rex-cultorum), special consideration and start with them. These varieties are grown for their arty, sometimes dramatic, and always colorful foliage.
Outdoors, they’re hardy in Zones 10 to 12, but they’ll thrive from January to December indoors in pots.
Most rex cultivars grow from rhizomes that spread along and below the soil, but others have fibrous roots.
Other rhizomatous types are also appealing for indoor cultivation, and though they’re less colorful than B. x rex-cultorum, they are a bit easier to maintain.
One example is the spritely B. goegoensis, with its bronze-green leaves and pink flowers.
Next in the viable houseplant category are the cane types, which may bloom indoors and reach heights of up to six feet in the right growing conditions.
This group includes angel-wing begonias with wing-shaped leaves and showy clusters of dangling blooms in pink, white, or perhaps red.
The other species ideal for growing as a houseplant might surprise you.
Those same wax (B. x semperflorens-cultorum) varieties that brought such cheer to your grandma’s garden bed and window boxes can also thrive indoors and even bloom throughout the year.
The variety in their foliage, blooms, and size, and the ease of propagating new starts, make this one of the most accessible and affordable plants that will bloom inside the house.
For the scoop on growing wax and cane as well as rex and other rhizomatous begonias indoors, keep reading.
Recommended Indoor Growing Conditions
Ah, there’s always a catch, isn’t there? When you grow a plant native to the tropics, it takes extra effort to provide for its growing requirements indoors.
If you’re a dedicated indoor gardener like me, it won’t take long to fall into a routine that makes it easier to provide for those needs.
It’s not as simple as letting the sun, rain, and mist do the work for you, but once you get used to the drill, it’s not too tough.
These are the top considerations:
Temperature
Begonias do well in the average home temperature, between 65 and 80°F.
They can hack temperatures as low as 55°F but get stressed when it’s colder than that. At temperatures below 50°F, they may also freeze.
Always check the label if you’re ordering unfamiliar varieties online or purchasing them locally.
Occasionally, a begonia hybrid has been bred to tolerate temperatures outside the usual range.
And as I mentioned earlier, tuberous begonias need chilly, not warm, temperatures to overwinter, and hardy types can survive sub-zero temperatures but die in the winter, even indoors.
You’ll want to place houseplant begonias somewhere out of drafts and away from family pets since the leaves are toxic.
If you like, you can move the plants outdoors in their containers once the temperatures exceed 60°F during the day and bring them back in when daytime temperatures fall below 60°F.
The advantage to this is that they will grow bigger, bloom more, and experience superior air circulation outdoors. But there’s also a potential drawback: the plants tend to bring pests and pathogens with them when you bring them back inside.
Light
While outdoor specimens might grow fine in partial shade, those same plants require bright, indirect light when grown indoors.
A window with direct sun is fine if you filter it with a sheer curtain, but a location one to three feet from a sunny window is superior.
Begonia pots must provide drainage. Choose a container with drainage holes at the bottom and place a saucer below to catch any excess water so you can dispose of it.
The material isn’t so important, but you should favor more lightweight pots for cane begonias since they get so big and you may want to move them outdoors in summer. A ceramic pot any bigger than six inches wide could prove too heavy.
Also, the pots should be only three or four inches deep and just an inch or two wider than the plant you intend to grow there. These plants have shallow roots and prefer snug quarters.
A hanging basket is fine as long as the bottom of the container offers proper drainage. Test it ahead of time.
If excess water only drains away when you tilt the pot at an angle, you’ll need to find something else.
Well-draining soil that’s moderately rich in composted organic matter is essential for indoor begonias. A mix of a peat alternative, sand, and compost will work. Or, an ordinary potting mix formulated for indoor plants is ideal.
If you are sourcing your plants from a garden bed, remove some of the soil from their roots and replace it with a sterile mix inside the pot.
When you’re filling containers for transplants, don’t try to use a prepackaged garden bed mix you have on hand, much less dirt from the yard.
Either tends to be too compact, and the soil from your property may contain harmful pathogens.
Air moisture can be a sticking point for those who want to grow begonias as houseplants. In general, they prefer at least 40 percent humidity. A bathroom or kitchen location is suitable if it also offers ample light.
You can also provide a pebble tray beneath the pot, making certain the water level reaches about halfway up the pebbles without touching the bottom of the pot.
I’m sorry to say misting to add humidity won’t work.
You’d have to mist at least three times a day to bump up the humidity significantly, and that frequency can increase the odds of leaving droplets behind, which may cause leaf spots.
If need be, you can invest in a humidifier, but I recommend seeing how the plants do first and adjusting as needed.
Care and Maintenance Tips
As long as they’re growing in a spot and in soil that suits them, ongoing care for houseplant begonias is straightforward.
You’ll want to keep them watered well, about an inch per week applied at the soil line, not splashed from above onto the leaves.
Instead of doing this on a regular schedule, which can lead to overwatering, water when the soil is dry at least an inch down. Plunge your pinky into the edge of the pot to determine dryness, or use a moisture meter.
It’s also an indicator that the soil is too dry if the leaves are brown at the margins or tips.
After each hydration session, give the plants at least 15 minutes to drain properly and discard the excess. They’re prone to stem and root rot if they get wet feet.
Indoor begonias will benefit from fertilizing with an all-purpose liquid plant food diluted to half strength and applied every 14 days.
As for ongoing maintenance, most types don’t need pruning to be happy, but you may want to trim back cane varieties if they’ve gotten gangly.
Spring is the best time, and you can trim the stems to the bottom four nodes, along with cutting any brittle or dead stems.
Alternatively, you can stake upright varieties with lightweight supports.
Make sure to deadhead spent flowers regularly and clip any leaves or stems that have turned brown. Also, pick up dead leaves and flowers that fall on the soil surface as soon as you see them to discourage fungal diseases.
Another nice thing about growing begonias in containers is that you don’t have to repot often.
You’ll know it’s time if a rhizomatous variety has rhizomes literally pressing on the edges of the pot or growing over the edges.
Wax and cane types should be repotted when they’re too snug in their pots, usually only once every two or three years.
Repot in spring if possible, and choose a new container at most two inches wider than the old pot.
And speaking of spring, if you do want to give indoor begonias a vacation outdoors in the warm months, make sure to start only after the temperatures are reliably above 60°F outdoors.
It’s also important to spend at least a week gradually acclimating the plants to the new levels of light and humidity.
This is one time when these plants are demanding: they don’t like abrupt environmental changes and will respond by dropping leaves or flowers, or starting to die back altogether.
When you bring the plants back inside for the winter months, do that gradually, too. And be especially careful to note and eliminate any insects or arachnids that try to hitchhike back indoors with your begonias.
Begonia Cultivars to Select
Ready to commit to a plant or seeds to start inside? Here are three worthy options for you to consider:
Cane: Polka Dot
Growing straight and tall on canes that reach 18 to 28 inches in height, polka dot begonias, B. maculata, have deep green leaves with translucent maroon undersides.
They get their name from the white polka dots on the faces of their wing-shaped leaves.
Polka dot begonias typically flower in the period from spring to late summer, but don’t be surprised if their white bell-shaped flowers show up at other times of the year too.
If you strictly grow this colorful rex begonia indoors, make sure to give it plenty of indirect light so its initial pink and magenta hues will develop into a rich red color.
The leaves are shaped like hearts, and the margins have irregular edges that soften their shape.
Harmony’s ‘Venetian Red’ is available in a four-inch pot from Walmart.
Wax: Vodka Deep Red
Part of the Cocktail series, ‘Vodka’ wax begonias grow eight to 12 inches tall. Each plant will spread about 10 inches, wide enough to fill a planter eight inches wide.
It will take at least 115 days for seeds started indoors to bloom. But your reward will be these cheery red wax begonias with shiny, red-edged leaves and bright yellow centers.
If you’re careful to get rid of pests before moving plants inside, they should be relatively problem free.
Those that do show up can be countered quickly with a strong spray of water or by applying neem oil, a natural fungicide and pesticide.
A few pests to watch out for include mealybugs, scale, spider mites, and thrips. Check out our guides to each of these pests for tips on detection and control.
In general, if you steer clear of poor air circulation, inadequate drainage, and overwatering, you can avoid most diseases that could afflict begonia houseplants, including fungal diseases like powdery mildew and leaf spot.
The fungusBotrytis cinerea causes botrytis, which will announce its presence on flowers first. You can prevent it by deadheading the blooms and clipping and destroying damaged or browning leaves immediately.
Stem rot is another destructive foe. It’s caused by the water mold Pythium ultimum, so don’t overwater if you want to spare your houseplants from this often deadly ailment.
Also, ensure you don’t plant rhizomatous begonias with their rhizomes all the way beneath the soil.
Orange, pink, red, white, yellow/green, bronze, multicolor combos including blood red, chocolate, cream, deep purple, hot pink, khaki, lavender, lime green, maroon, pink
Native to:
South America and other tropical regions, cultivated hybrids
Water Needs:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zones):
9-12, depending on variety
Maintenance:
Low to moderate, depending on species
Bloom Time/Season:
Year-round or spring-early autumn, depending on the species
Tolerance:
Underwatering for short periods
Exposure:
Bright, indirect light
Soil Type:
Moist, humus rich (tuberous and cane); porous, peat-based, amended with compost (other types); average potting mix (all varieties)
Spacing:
1 per 6-inch pot (wax), pot 2-3 inches wider than root ball (cane, rhizomatous, other hybrids with fibrous roots)
Soil pH:
5.5-7.0
Planting Depth:
Pressed into soil surface (pelleted seeds), top half of rhizome visible above soil (rex and rhizomatous), slightly below soil line (tubers), crown even with soil surface (other fibrous-rooted varieties)
The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost.
However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings?
Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:
I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.
Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.
With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps
There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.
1. Choose a location to compost
Here are a few necessities for the location:
Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in.
Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.
2. Obtain compost bins
The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.
Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin.
3. Gather the correct tools for composting
The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).
5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials
Green Materials
Brown Materials
Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful
Carbon-rich, dry
Grass clippings
Dry brown leaves
Coffee and tea grounds
Egg shells
Green garden trimmings
Hay and straw
Fruit scraps, peels
Shredded paper
Vegetable scraps, peels
Dryer lint
Green materialsBrown materials
6. Fill the bins
Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies.
Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.
7. Observe the compost
As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step.
Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up.
Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work.
Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete.
This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into.
9. Use the compost
Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.
If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.
10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost
The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.
Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes.
Troubleshooting Tips
Symptom
Problem
Solution
Many flies
Green items or food exposed to air
Cover pile with brown materials.
Wet compost – not heating up
Add more brown material
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers.
Dry compost – not heating up
Materials may be too large, needs more green
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
Bad odor like rotten eggs
Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
Bad odor like ammonia
Not enough brown materials
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
Compost heats up and then cools down
Compost needs turned
Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go.
Warm only in the middle
Compost pile too small
Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
Matted layers of leaves or grass
Material won’t break down, will become slimy
Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
If you enjoyed this post about how to compost, please share it:
Since I don’t have any good garden pictures today, and am right near the generational cutoff date between Millenial and Gen X, I will embrace my Millenial cohort and post a picture of food.
This is a shot of yesterday’s lunch.
The purple sweet potato is a new variety we tried out this year. I am unsure where we got the first root to plant – probably from Ever’man’s Market in Pensacola – but it turned out to be a very nice, well-flavored, dense and productive variety.
The pickles (and the dill) were from our gardens and were live-fermented by Rachel. The sausages are nitrite-free beef and are from a local farm.
Soon we’ll have some more cool-season greens again. Right now we’re usually easting scrambled eggs with sweet potato greens for breakfast, but that will switch to brassicas in another month or two.
We’re working towards producing all of our own food. Our budget is tightening as the economy gets weirder and we’re working to grow much more of what we eat and stick to simple fare that will save us money while providing higher nutrient density.
This isn’t to say we don’t visit the Chinese All-You-Can-Eat Buffet on occasion, because we do. Thus far, we have been unable to grow our own Sesame Chicken, Fry Shrimp, Baked Seafood Cheese Casserole or Jello cubes, but we’re working on it.
Most of the time we eat at home, and most of the time about half of what is on the table comes from the gardens.
We produce lots of food on only about a quarter acre of garden space. As the food forest grows and the production of fruits and nuts from both there and in the Grocery Row Gardens increases, we will eventually have most of our meals coming from the ground instead of the grocery store. We’d like to do more experiments with making homemade flour from our yams and cassava, which could replace pasta completely. Though Rachel and I don’t eat wheat, we do enjoy some rice noodles sometimes – and all the kids love pasta.
Especially with General Tsao Chicken.
Actually, we have a few roosters and some sugarcane we could juice. I wonder…
When it comes to our homes, we want nothing less than the best. We invest time, effort, and resources to make them comfortable, safe, and inviting. Often, however, we overlook essential aspects that can significantly elevate our living experience. Two of these are interior basement waterproofing mississaugaand install door for my house north york.
In this article, we’ll explore the benefits of basement waterproofing and new door installation, both of which can have a positive impact on your living space.
Understanding interior basement waterproofing
Let’s begin with the often-neglected basement. While it might be a space for storage or the occasional laundry, cellars hold the key to a home’s structural integrity. In places where weather patterns can be unpredictable, such as Mississauga, ensuring your basement stays dry is crucial.
Interior basement waterproofing mississauga is about more than just preventing leaks. Waterproofing needs to safeguard your foundation from moisture that can weaken the very core of your home.
The basement waterproofing process involves sealing cracks, applying waterproof coatings, and creating an effective drainage system. Doing so creates a shield against dampness that could lead to mould, mildew, and costly structural damage.
The value of a secure entryway
As homeowners, we often focus on interior design and comfort, but aspects that contribute significantly to our home’s value and security are just as important.
In this section, we’ll explore the benefits of having a secure entryway, particularly in areas like North York, where homes must withstand urban challenges and unpredictable weather patterns. Let’s dive into the unassuming hero that is your front door:
A high-quality entry door is the first defence against potential intruders, deterring unauthorised access and ensuring your family’s safety.
Well-installed doorscontribute to better insulation, keeping your home warm in winter and cool in summer, and reducing energy costs.
A stylish and well-maintained entry dooradds to your home’s aesthetic appeal, leaving a positive impression on visitors and potential buyers.
A secure and visually appealing entrywayenhances the overall value of your property, making it more attractive to prospective buyers.
A quality door reduces outdoor noise infiltration, creating a quieter and more peaceful indoor environment.
Especially relevant in regions like North York, a durable door can withstand harsh weather conditions, maintaining its integrity over time.
Entry doors come in various designs, allowing you to choose one that reflects your taste and complements your home’s architecture.
Investing in a well-made entry door means it will last longer, requiring fewer repairs or replacements, ultimately saving you money in the long run.
Beyond its practical function, a secure entryway to your property boasts multiple layers of value. From safeguarding your loved ones to enhancing your home’s aesthetics, it’s definitely an area that’s worth the investment.
The synergy of interior basement waterproofing and door installation
When redefining your home’s value, two seemingly distinct enhancements – interior basement waterproofing and door installation – combine to create a synergy beyond the sum of its parts. Let’s explore how these two vital components, especially in regions like Mississauga and North York, can work harmoniously to elevate your living experience and add lasting value to your property.
Defending against moisture in Mississauga
In a place like Mississauga, where weather can be unpredictable, the importance of interior basement waterproofing cannot be overstated.
The last thing you want is moisture seeping into your home’s foundation, causing damage that can ripple through every aspect of your living space. By investing in proper waterproofing, you’re taking a proactive stance against potential issues like mould, structural decay, and compromised indoor air quality.
Seamless door installation in North York
Meanwhile, in North York, where urban living is coupled with the need for a secure home environment, install door for my house north york steps into the spotlight.
Your entry door is a physical barrierbetween your home and the bustling world outside. Choosing a high-quality door and ensuring its proper installation enhances security and addresses energy efficiency, noise reduction, and kerb appeal.
Combining comfort and protection
On the one hand, you have a basement that remains dry and impervious to the outside elements, thanks to interior basement waterproofing mississauga.
On the other hand, your newly installed entry door guards against both physical intrusions and energy wastage.
A positive impact on home value
As you might already realise, these improvements go beyond the immediate benefits they offer. They add significant value to your home.
When potential buyers or appraisers see a home with a well-maintained basement and a top-notch entry door, they perceive it as a house that’s been cared for, a place built to last. This can significantly influence how the value of your home is perceived, particularly in competitive real estate markets like Mississauga and North York.
Safeguarding your home’s foundation and crafting an appealing and secure entry will ultimately contribute to your property’s long-term value. In the competitive real estate markets of Mississauga and North York, these enhancements can decide what sets your home apart. They give your home an edge, not only in terms of practicality, but also in terms of aesthetic appeal and resale potential.
The final word
Never underestimate the impact of interior basement waterproofing and door installation. These two upgrades can redefine your home’s value, offering long-term benefits beyond the surface. From protecting your property’s foundation to enhancing security and aesthetics, these home improvement projects are an investment that pays off in more ways than one.
