Category: Home & Garden

1. Top Pick Up Front: Razor-Back 24-Tine Steel

One of my favorites is the RazorBack 24-Tine Steel Rake, available at Tractor Supply. It’s a solid and durable choice for weekend gardeners with lots of leaves to collect.

Razor-Back Fiberglass Handle Steel Rake

The steel head offers a flexible coil spring mechanism for smooth and responsive raking action, which is easier on the arms and upper body. The 24-inch-wide head is also bolted to the handle with double bolts for a secure connection.

Its fiberglass handle is lightweight and durable, weighing two and a half pounds, and the cushioned grip is comfortable for the hands, which can become weary after raking up pile after pile.

The rake’s 68-inch length (51 inches of which is handle) offers plenty of reach, so it’s ideal for taller folk, too.

I’ve had problems in the past with individual tines falling out of other rakes, so I appreciate the one-piece head on this model, which prevents that from happening.

And it won’t just make short work of your autumn leaves, either. This versatile rake is sturdy enough to cope with small stones, twigs, and lawn thatch.

The manufacturer provides a lifetime warranty for your peace of mind.

Sturdy, versatile, lightweight, and comfortable to use, the Razor-Back is my go-to leaf rake. Will it be yours?

Check the price now on Tractor Supply.

2. Ames 22-Tine Steel

With a hardwood handle and a robust steel head that’ll make light work of your fall cleanup, check out the Ames 22-Tine Steel Rake, available at Home Depot.

Ames 22 Tine Steel Rake

It features a 22-inch, one-piece head with flexible steel tines, bolted to the wooden handle for a secure connection.

The coil spring mechanism allows for comfortable raking action. The handle features a six-inch cushioned grip for extra comfort.

This model is lightweight, at two and a half pounds, but the tines are sturdy enough to handle wet debris, twigs, and small stones. Thanks to the one-piece head construction, the tines won’t pull loose.

Made in the USA, this product comes with a 15-year warranty for peace of mind.

Head to Home Depot to check prices now.

If you’re looking for a professional-grade, jumbo rake that’s lightweight, check out the Bully Tools 30-inch Leaf Rake, available from Amazon.

The wide polypropylene head is curved to allow for even pressure across all the tines, which have angled teeth to make short work of leaves and cut grass.

Bully Tools 30-inch Leaf Rake

As the name suggests, the tines fan out to a massive 30 inches wide, and are particularly effective at cleaning up wet leaf material. The reinforced ridges on both sides of the tines prevent them from breaking, even during heavy use.

Cleaning it is a breeze. It seldom gets clogged up and a quick spray with the hose will have it looking good as new.

And here’s a tip for you: Spray plastic tines with silicone spray for easy-release debris. You can find silicone spray from Sprayway on Amazon.

The 68-inch long handle is constructed from fiberglass and coated with polyester to make it more durable and comfortable to use. A short cushioned section of the handle adds to the overall comfort.

This model stands 72 inches tall, with 68 inches of that being the length of the fiberglass handle, and weighs three pounds.

The rake ships in two parts and minor assembly is required – all you need is a screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

If you are raking a large area or have a lot of wet, soggy debris, the Bully Tools should be top of your list.

Made in the USA, the Bully Tools 30-inch leaf rake comes with a limited lifetime warranty.

Check prices and order now on Amazon.

If your landscape cleanup calls for a shrub rake, which features a narrow head for getting into tight spots, consider this model from Bully Tools, available via Amazon.

Bully Tools 8-inch Shrub Rake

The eight-inch-wide head is perfect for getting in and around plants without risking damage to the foliage. As any seasoned gardener knows, those pesky leaves can find their way into pretty much any spot!

With powder-coated, tempered steel tines, and a 54-inch polyester-coated fiberglass handle, it’s sturdy, strong, and long enough to reach into narrow and awkward areas.

This is a heavy-duty model, weighs just over two pounds and is built to last.

It is also available with a short, 32-inch handle, weighing just two pounds.

The steel tines are easy to clean, and the durable, powder-coated finish prevents rusting.

Made in the USA, Bully Tools provides a limited lifetime warranty for your peace of mind.

Read customer reviews and check prices now on Amazon.

5. Emsco Cavex Series 22.5-Inch Poly

If you want a lightweight, economical model to take care of dry leaves the Emsco Cavex 22.5-inch, available from Home Depot, is ideal for light garden duty.

Emsco Cavex Series 22.5-Inch Poly Rake

It features 23 flexible polyresin tines on a very slightly curved head, and a 48-inch hardwood handle, with an overall length of 61.5 inches.

This model isn’t suitable for raking wet leaves or heavier garden debris. At 22.5 inches wide, the compact head is ideal for smaller yards that require a light fall cleanup.

For a basic rake to take care of autumn leaves, the Emsco is an economical choice, and it ships with a one year warranty.

Check it out now at Home Depot.

6. Magic Fly

The Magic Fly®, available from Gardener’s Supply Company, is a two-in-one leaf rake and scoop.

With a lightweight, 74-inch aluminum handle and a 23-inch-wide orange poly head, this model saves your back and allows you – with a quick adjustment – to scoop up leaves as you go.

Magic Fly

Instead of bending down to pick up the raked debris, with the Magic Fly® you can remain upright, saving strain on your back and knees.

This Italian-designed tool operates with a simple sliding mechanism, converting easily from rake to scoop.

It’s worth noting that you won’t be able to scoop enormous quantities of leaves, but for some quick backyard cleanup, the Magic Fly® won’t disappoint.

You can find the Magic Fly® available at Gardener’s Supply Company.

7. Telescopic Adjustable

If storage space is tight, you might consider this adjustable model, available from Terrain.

Its 15-tine chrome-plated carbon steel head expands from seven inches wide to 22 inches when fully extended.

63-Inch Adjustable Garden Rake

You simply open a plastic lever to adjust the width of the head and then close the lever to lock the head at the desired width.

The telescoping handle extends from 31 to 63 inches long and is operated by a simple twist and lock mechanism.

This product is ideal if you have hard to reach areas of the garden but don’t wish to purchase a separate shrub rake.

This lightweight rake features a 3/4-inch carbon steel and plastic handle that is rust-resistant.

Weighing in at just over two pounds, this is a light-duty rake and is not suitable for rocks, wet leaves, or lawn thatch.

If you need a versatile rake that won’t take up lots of room in your shed, then check out the Gardenite Adjustable.

Check prices now on Terrain.

Rake ‘Em In

Raking leaves isn’t the most glamorous of garden chores, but it’s a necessity. Having the right implement(s) for the job will make it less tiring and tedious.

The Razor-Back 24-Tine is an effective all-rounder, the metal tines are robust enough to handle wet leaves and the lightweight fiberglass handle is easy to manage.

For those with large backyards in need of the “big guns,” the Bully Tools 30-inch would be my top choice. The plastic tines will make short work of wet, claggy leaves.

And what to do with those leaves? Chuck them on the compost pile of course – or use them as mulch. We’ve got a complete guide to that, right here.

Now, the hard part: convincing yourself to brave brisk fall temperatures and get those leaves cleaned up!

What’s your favorite leaf rake type? Are you content with just one or do you have a variety of rakes in your shed? Let us know in the comments section below!

And for more gardening gear to add to your collection, check out these buying guides next:

Gophers can do enormous damage in a very short period of time. Learn how to trap a gopher correctly to get rid of gophers in the garden.

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How to Trap Gophers the Right Way

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Guest post by Zach Brooks, Owner of Arizona Worm Farm

Gophers eat the roots of trees and vegetables and can kill a full-size tree in less than two days. If left alone, gophers will damage your underground infrastructure, like water pipes (especially plastic irrigation lines) and electrical cables, disrupting water and electrical supply. Even worse, they can find their way to the foundation of a house, where they begin to damage it with many years of burrowing activity and find a way to get into the house through the plumbing. Once inside the house, they will take shelter in the bathroom under the bathtubs, cupboards, or walls, where they continue their damaging activity.

Clearly, we want to get gophers out of our yards as soon as we see them!

At the Arizona Worm Farm, we are committed to not using any poisons. Poisoned rodents become prey to lots of wild birds, coyotes, dogs, and cats – so we don’t use them. Poison can also hang around in the soil, negatively impacting soils, vegetables, and microbes.

Short of asking them nicely to leave (which I have tried – it does not work), we find traps are the most effective and humane way to dispose of these awful rodents. Learn how to trap gophers the right way with these tips.

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Five Steps to Successfully Getting Rid of Your Gophers in the Garden

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Gophers make a distinct mound. If you see a pile of dirt in your lawn, garden, or tree area (particularly in the Phoenix metropolitan area), it is probably caused by a gopher. Other animals and pests can dig holes, but a mound with no visible hole or a slightly filled one (like the picture below) is almost certainly a sign of one or more gophers.

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Getting Rid of Gophers Step 2: Find the main tunnel

Use a probe (we use a gopher probe, but a long screwdriver will work) to find the tunnel. This one takes some practice. My favorite probe is from a company called GopherHawk.

Once you find the tunnel:

• Gently scoop the mound of dirt away from where you found it and probe the ground. 
• You will feel the probe release when you push the probe into the main tunnel. 
• Open the pathway from the top into the tunnel using your hands or a small hand shovel. 
• If you find it – the tunnel will be well-defined and easy to feel.

Pro Tip: If you entered the tunnel in the middle (if you can feel it in both directions), you need to set two traps – one in each direction. 

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Getting Rid of Gophers Step 3: Set the right trap correctly

We use a trap called the Gophinator. This trap is made of stainless steel and won’t rust. We get many years of use from each trap. We attach a line to the loop at the spring end of the trap. Instructions on how to set the trap come in the package with the trap. Follow the directions on your trap.

We make sure to fit the trap snuggly in the hole (in both directions if the tunnel goes both ways) and then place a “flag” or marker at the end of the line we placed on the trap. This makes the trap easy to retrieve from the tunnel.

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Getting Rid of Gophers Step 4: Cover the hole completely

Finally, we cover the trap with a flexible carpet square and then some dirt. This “secret step” ensures the gopher won’t see any light and will trigger the trap. We use carpet or tile squares from your nearest big box store. They are inexpensive and quite effective.

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Getting Rid of Gophers Step 5: Check the trap after 24 hours

After 24 hours, pull the line to remove the trap. If you were successful, release the trap and dispose of the gopher. If you come up empty (which happens to us almost a third of the time), wait and watch for the next mound and try again right away.

After you have trapped your gopher, stay vigilant. It is not unusual to have multiple gophers in a general area. Keep an eye out for mounds – and if you see a mound – set a trap.

We offer a “gopher trapping class” at the Arizona Worm Farm if you want hands-on training and practice.

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Looking for more pest control tips? Check out these blog posts:

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Angel’s trumpet plants are easier to care for than most people think, and they grow very quickly too.

But before you can enjoy the show stopping blooms, first you need to know how to create the ideal environment for an angel trumpet Brugmansia to thrive in.

This detailed angel’s trumpet care guide is designed to help you do just that. Discover the best soil, water, light, and fertilizer to use, plus get details on pruning, propagation, pest control, and more.

Angel’s Trumpet Quick Care Overview

Scientific name:	Brugmansia
Classification:	Tropical plant
Common names:	Angel Trumpet, Angel’s Trumpet
Hardiness:	Zones 8-11
Temperature:	60-90°F (15.5-32°C)
Flowers:	Red, yellow, pink, peach, gold, white, blooms late spring-fall
Light:	Full sun, bright light indoors
Water:	Keep soil evenly moist, do not overwater
Humidity:	Average-high
Fertilizer:	Flowering plant food spring-summer
Soil:	Well-drained, fertile, aerated
Common pests:	Whiteflies, spider mites, cabbage worms, aphids

Information About Angel’s Trumpet

Angel’s trumpet (Brugmansia) is a tropical flowering perennial from the Solanaceae, or nightshade, family. It’s native to the mountains of South America.

These gorgeous plants known for the fragrant, abundant flowers that can bloom year round in the right conditions.

The tree-like shrubs consist of a single, thick trunk and strong woody branches that feature smooth green leaves.

The large trumpet-shaped flowers are what gives Brugmansia the nickname “angel’s trumpet”.

Outdoors in the garden they can reach heights up to 20’, while potted specimens usually don’t exceed 15’.

Different Brugmansia Types

There are many types of angel trumpets that feature different leaf shapes and flower colors. Thankfully they can all be cared for in the same way.

• Brugmansia suaveolens – An oval-leafed variety with white, yellow, or pink flowers.

• Brugmansia aurea – The pendant shaped flowers on this type are yellow or white and especially fragrant.

• Brugmansia versicolor – Oblong green leaves and flowers that start out white, but age to a peach/apricot color, are hallmarks of this option.

• Brugmansia sauguinea – The hanging flowers on this 10’ variety are bicolored with yellow at the base and bright red at the edge of the petals.

Flowers

People love angel’s trumpet plants for their large, showy, brightly colored flowers.

They typically bloom from late spring through early fall, but that can vary based on climate. It’s common for them to bloom year round in some areas.

The blossoms are tubular or trumpet shaped, and often hang down like a pendant. The color and exact shape can vary by variety.

At night the flowers release a strong, floral fragrance. They’re also pollinator and hummingbird friendly.

Toxicity

Angel’s trumpet is poisonous for cats, dogs, and people. All parts of the plant are highly toxic, and can have serious side effects when ingested or if the oils get into your eyes.

Always handle them with protective eyewear and gloves, and keep them away from children and pets. Make sure you clean up the spent blooms as they fall.

If you’d like to learn more about the potential dangers, check out the ASPCA website for information on toxic plants.

How To Grow Angel’s Trumpet

Before we chat about angel’s trumpet care, first let’s discuss when and where to grow them. Choosing the right location is key to their long-lasting health.

Hardiness

Brugmansia plants are not cold hardy and can only survive outside year round in growing zones 8-11, depending on the variety.

Both extreme heat and cold can prevent flowering, and low temperatures can halt growth, cause leaf drop, and eventually kill the plant.

If you live in a region where the temperature falls below 50°F (10°C) in the winter, it’s a good idea to protect them or move them to a sheltered location until the spring.

Where To Grow Brugmansia

You should grow your angel’s trumpet somewhere in the garden with plenty of sun and fertile soil.

They need average to high humidity, and enough space to accommodate their potential height of 10-20’.

You can also grow them in containers. Choose one with drainage holes that’s heavy enough to support the weight of the full-grown plant.

If you choose to keep yours indoors, make sure to put it somewhere with lots of bright light, like a sunny south facing window.

Angel’s Trumpet Plant Care & Growing Instructions

Now that you know where to grow them, let’s talk about how to properly care for Brugmansia plants. The tips in this section will help you create the perfect environment for yours to thrive.

Light

Angel’s trumpet plants need 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day to bloom and grow their best.

In most places, this means a full sun location in the garden. However in arid regions with high heat, afternoon shade can help prevent wilting.

Indoors they need a very bright spot, like a south-facing window, or they tend to get leggy. Consider using a grow light if you need to supplement.

Water

Water is a very important part of angel’s trumpet care. They do not like soggy soil or wet feet, but they need ample water to continue flowering and prevent wilting.

Water whenever the soil feels dry on top. In containers, that may be as frequently as every day, especially during hot weather.

Use a moisture meter probe to check when it’s time, and to ensure you’re not overwatering. A reading of 3-4 means they’re ready for a drink.

Humidity

Brugmansia plants prefer average to high humidity. This is easy in most outdoor locations, but if you’re growing an angel trumpet inside where the air is typically drier, you may need to supplement.

A humidity monitor can help you understand how dry your air is. A small humidifier or a pebble tray are good ways to increase the levels near your plant.

Temperature

The ideal temperature range for successful angel’s trumpet care is between 60-90°F (15.5-32°C).

Anything cooler than that can stop flowering, cause leaf drop, or stunt growth. Freezing temperatures will kill the foliage, and eventually the roots.

Extreme heat can also be damaging. Wilting and flower bud drop are common during heat waves. Keep the plant well-hydrated and provide shade in the afternoon and it should recover.

Fertilizer

From spring through fall angel’s trumpets are heavy feeders. So fertilize them regularly to encourage more abundant blooms and keep the foliage thriving.

Choose an organic flowering plant liquid fertilizer, or a natural option like compost tea or fish emulsion, and apply it every other week through the fall.

You can also give them a good head start by applying slow release granules during planting, or top-dress established brugmansias 1-2 times during the growing season.

Soil

Angel’s trumpets aren’t too picky about their soil, and can grow in a wide variety of mixes as long as it’s well-draining. However they prefer something loamy, fertile, and fast-draining.

You can mix a high quality potting soil with perlite or pumice and peat moss for your containers.

In the garden, amend sandy or heavy clay soils with compost or peat moss to improve the available nutrients and drainage.

Transplanting & Repotting

The best time to transplant or repot your angel’s trumpet is during the late winter or early spring.

Brugs are fast growers, and may need repotting every other year. Look for stunted growth, lack of blooms, or roots coming out of the bottom of the pot as signs that it’s time.

Prepare a new container or a spot in the garden, then slide the plant from its previous pot or dig it up and lay it on its side. Gently break up the roots if they’re growing in a circular pattern.

Then place it in its new home and pack the soil around it. Water deeply to let it settle and fill in any holes.

Pruning

Pruning is an important part of angel’s trumpet care, and a good way to encourage more blooms and new growth, and to keep them tidy.

Always wear gloves and eye protection, and use a sharp pair of clean pruning shears.

Deadhead flowers and trim back wayward branches throughout the season as necessary.

In the late winter or very early spring, you can cut the branches back to prepare it for new growth. Always keep 6-8 leaf nodes per branch on the plant.

Brugmansia Pest Control Tips

Whiteflies, aphids, spider mites, and cabbage worms can all become issues for angel’s trumpet, especially if the plant isn’t in great health.

Insecticidal soap is a good organic control method. I make my own by mixing 1 teaspoon of mild liquid soap with 1 liter of water.

Neem oil can also be effective. But test any type of spray on a small section of the plant first to make sure it doesn’t damage the foliage.

Dormancy

It’s natural for an angel trumpet to enter a state of dormancy when exposed to cold temperatures. During this time, the leaves will drop off and growth will stop.

They can survive outside as long as the temperatures don’t dip below freezing at night. If they do, it’s best to protect your plant or move it to a sheltered location. 

Otherwise you can bring them indoors. Get the detailed tips in my step by step guide on how to overwinter brugmansia plants, but there are three basic options.

• Keep your angel’s trumpet growing and care for it as a houseplant indoors.

• Take cuttings while it’s warm outside and root them in water. Then plant the rooted cuttings in the spring.

• Allow the plant to go dormant and store it in a sheltered location that stays between 35-50°F (1.6-10°C), like a garage, basement, or cellar.

Angel’s Trumpet Propagation Tips

Angel’s trumpets can be propagated with suckers that grow at the base of the plant, from stem cuttings, or by seed. The most common method is rooting cuttings.

Make sure your cuttings have several leaf nodes. You can even cut a large branch into smaller sections.

Dust the end with rooting hormone and bury them about halfway down into dampened, aerated soil.

Place them somewhere warm and shaded for several weeks, and keep them lightly moist. Once they’re rooted, transplant or pot them up.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Angel’s trumpets are usually easy to care for, but no plant is completely problem free. If you run into one of these more common issues, my tips can help get you back on track.

Leaves Turning Yellow

The most common causes of yellowing leaves on your Brugmansia are pests and overwatering. 

Check the tops and bottoms of leaves closely for bugs, and treat them immediately if you find any. 

If that’s not it, then you may be watering too much or dealing with poorly drained soil. Use a moisture gauge to help you get it right.

Angel’s Trumpet Not Blooming

There are many reasons why your angel’s trumpet is not blooming, including improper care.

High or low temperatures, lack of water or light, poor nutrition, being root-bound, disease, and young age could all be culprits.

It takes baby plants a few years to reach blooming age. Once they do, they need 6 or more hours of direct light, temperatures between 60-90°F (15.5-32°C), consistent water, and frequent feedings to bloom.

If yours is containerized, consider moving it to a larger pot or pruning the roots and refreshing the soil to rejuvenate it.

Holes In Leaves

The most common reason behind holes in brugmansia leaves are cabbage worms, but they can also be caused by snails or slugs.

The best way to manage them is to hand pick the insects and drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Keep the base of your plant clean of debris to eliminate hiding spots for pests too.

Brown Leaves

Brown leaves on your angel’s trumpet plant can be caused by fungal diseases, root rot, underwatering, or high heat.

Keep them well-watered during heat waves to avoid brittle, brown, and curling leaves.

If the soil is soggy or poorly drained, root rot can develop and spread through the plant. Certain fungal diseases can also cause wilting, brown leaves, and may be treatable with an organic fungicide.

FAQs

Here I’ve answered some of the most commonly asked questions about angel’s trumpet plant care. If yours isn’t listed, please add it to the comments section below.

Is it OK to touch angel’s trumpet plants?

It’s ok to touch angel’s trumpet plants, simply touching them won’t harm you. It’s the sap inside that’s poisonous, so it’s a good idea to wear protective gloves and glasses when you’re pruning or deadheading.

Are angel trumpets easy to grow?

Angel’s trumpets are easy to grow because, with plenty of sun, consistent water, and fertile soil, they’ll thrive and bloom without needing much attention.

Do angel trumpets come back every year?

Angel trumpets can come back every year, or even grow year round, as long as it doesn’t get below freezing for long periods of time. They are perennials in growing zones 8-11.

How long does an angel’s trumpet take to grow?

How long it takes an angel’s trumpet to grow depends on the environment. With plenty of direct sun, water, warmth, and fertilizer they are very fast growers that can put on several feet every year.

What is the lowest temperature a brugmansia can tolerate?

The lowest temperature most brugmansia varieties can tolerate is 32°F (0°C), but some can survive much lower temps. Always check the plant tag to know how hardy yours is and look for signs of stress, like leaf drop and stalled growth, to know it’s getting too cold.

If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!

More About Flower Gardening

Share your angel’s trumpet plant care tips in the comments section below.

That process is called propagation, and it’s very simple to learn and do.

In this guide, we’ll go over the basics of houseplant propagation. Here’s what’s ahead:

What Is “Propagation,” Anyway?

“Propagation” is one of those words that gets thrown around a lot by people in the plant community.

It sounds super complicated, but it’s actually not! Propagation is just the act of taking a piece of the mother plant and tricking that piece, or cutting, into making roots and shoots.

Propagation can also refer to growing a new plant from a tiny seed, and later transplanting it to a larger pot.

Either way, if it’s successful, you will eventually add new additions to your growing plant collection.

Before you propagate via cuttings, you’ll need a few necessities:

• A floral knife or small pocket knife
• A watering can or misting bottle
• Heat mat
• A plastic bag or bowl
• Somewhere for your cutting to call home
• A tape measure or ruler
• A mother plant to take cuttings from

There are also some optional propagation supplies that you can use if you are all about gardening gadgets or want to experiment with something new:

• Commercial rooting hormone
• Grow light

If you are starting from seed, you will require:

• Seeds
• Pots or seed-starting trays

More About the Necessities

Let’s start by breaking down the necessary tools needed for propagation. These will make your first (or latest) propagation experiment a breeze.

Floral Knife/Small Pocket Knife

Every plant contains something called vascular tissue, which is responsible for transporting water and nutrients all throughout the plant.

You never want to pinch or squish the vascular tissue of your cuttings, otherwise they won’t produce roots or shoots properly!

This is where your small knife comes in – clean cuts will prevent vascular tissues from being damaged while you propagate.

Watering Can/Misting Bottle

Newly cut propagules are super vulnerable to disease and root rot, which is why you never want to overwater them! Overwatering can create a soggy environment that bacteria loves.

A watering can or misting bottle allows you to better control the amount of water that the propagule is receiving.

An initial mist or thorough watering is all a new cutting will need when it’s first put in the soil. Only water or mist if the growing media is completely dry.

To test if the soil/media is dry, stick your index finger into an unoccupied portion of the media. If it feels dry up to your first knuckle, then you are set to water or mist again.

Your cuttings are small so they cannot afford to lose a ton of water.

Putting a plastic bag or a plastic bowl over your cuttings after you’ve misted them is the quickest (and cheapest) way to create greenhouse-like humidity to keep them from losing water.

A Home for Your Cuttings

Your new cuttings will need a place to grow roots and/or shoots.

A Mother Plant

The type of mother plant will determine the needs and specific technique that you will use to take cuttings for propagating.

We’ll talk about that more in later in this guide, so keep reading.

More About the Optional Tools

These are just a little something extra for your propagation experiment, to help boost your chances of success.

Commercial Rooting Hormone

This is the tool that makes you feel like a mad scientist! Rooting hormones come in a powder, liquid, or gel form, and they ultimately help your propagules grow roots faster.

When shopping for rooting hormone, look for ones that have indolebutyric acid (IBA) or naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA) on the label.

I would advise buying a powdered hormone because these are easier to handle, don’t require you to wear gloves, and the product adheres to your cuttings instantly.

After taking a cutting to propagate or for starting seeds, there are two things that you want to keep in mind while deciding between types of media:

Since water is one of the requirements for successful propagation, you can absolutely plop your cuttings in a vase of clean water.

Since water loses oxygen over time, you will need to replace the water every two to three days. Some plants that do well in water include spider plants, monsteras, and ZZ plants.

Not that unless your plants are specifically aquatic specimens, they will not thrive in water their whole lives. Once the cuttings have rooted, they need to be planted in soil.

This is because water does not contain the nutrients that the plants need, which means that you have a higher likelihood for stunted growth.

You could add fertilizer to the water, but it is very easy to overfertilize. Should overfertilization occur, your plant may experience root rot or excess sodium intake that will cause the leaves to turn brown at the ends.

Propagation Techniques and Plants to Experiment With

Here’s where we get to the fun part – actually propagating your plants!

There are a few basic techniques that you can use to propagate your beloved plants, and so very many species to experiment with.

Indoor Seed Propagation

Indoor seed propagation is a great way to start producing some indoor edible plants like tomatoes, basil, and peppers, as well as ornamental houseplants like peace lilies and anthuriums.

Multipacks of plastic seed-starting cells with drainage holes in the bottom are excellent for propagating seed, and they can be placed in a solid tray to catch any excess water.

Prepare a seed-starting cell tray by over-filling it with a seed-starting potting mix. Once you have done this, tap it gently against a flat surface to let the potting mix settle.

Then, level it gently with your hand by swiping it across the top – you don’t want to compact the substrate!

You should plan to sow at least three seeds per cell in case some of them do not germinate. By paying attention to the “packed for” date on your seed packet, you can avoid low germination rates.

For example, if a seed packet says “packed for 2023,” you can expect a decline in germination rates beyond that date.

Using the tip of your finger, poke a hole in the top of your substrate. The hole should be twice the diameter of the seed.

After making a hole, place the seed inside the hole and gently cover it with vermiculite or potting mix.

Water the soil thoroughly and check daily to see if it needs to be rewatered. You can determine by sticking a toothpick or your index finger one inch deep into the substrate.

If the potting mix is dry to an inch down, then your seeds are ready to be watered again.

Place the container in a well-lit and warm environment until the seeds germinate. Again, I would suggest a heat mat to help keep the soil warm until you are ready to repot your seedlings.

Depending on the type of plant, repotting can take place when the plants are four to six weeks old.

Stem Tip Cuttings

This is a classic technique useful for propagating poinsettia, croton, basil, and pothos plants. 

Prepare four-inch seedling pots by overfilling them with a substrate of your choice, tapping it three times against a flat surface, and gently swiping the excess off with your hand.

Take the mother plant and find a branch with a growing point at the end of it. Growing points may exhibit an unfurled leaf or bud-like structure at the end of a branch.

Measure out three to six inches of the branch before taking your knife and cutting it away from the mother plant.

Remove half- to one-inch of leaves along the stem of the cutting near the cut end.

If you like, take your new cutting and dip the cut end into the rooting hormone to coat it lightly. If using a liquid root hormone, make sure you wear gloves while handling it, keep the cut tip in the hormone for three seconds, and shield the hormone from light.

Stick the bare stem cut side down into your desired media. If you are using floral foam, simply stick the cut end one inch deep into the foam.

If you are using soil to propagate your cuttings, stick the cut end one inch into the soil and use your index finger and thumb to gently pinch the soil around it for stability, and water gently.

Place your container onto a heat mat in an area with indirect light that is approximately 68 to 73°F. Adjust your heat mat to be 77°F.

The heat from the mat will accelerate the time it takes for your plants to root, while the coolness of the ambient temperature will slow water loss from the plant.

If you are using a grow light, check the wattage provided on the package. If it is under 40 watts, place it six to 12 inches from your propagules to avoid scorching.

Keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged. You can stick your finger into the soil and if it’s dry up to your first knuckle, it’s time to water again.

Every few weeks, you can check if your propagule has successfully rooted or not by gently tugging on the lowest part of the stem.

If it will not budge, that means it has successfully rooted and it is time to transplant it into a bigger pot. The pot should only be twice the size of the root ball.

Leaf Cuttings

This propagation technique is a little more tricky, but super manageable for beginners! It’s ideal for African violets, snake plants, hoyas, and Christmas cacti, just to name a few!

Prepare a pot or cell pack by filling it with the media of your choice.

Take the mother plant and find a leaf with a long petiole. Petioles connect the leaf to the stem of the mother plant.

Using your knife, cut the petiole away from the mother plant. Make sure that the petiole is half to a quarter of an inch long and cut at an angle.

As described above, be very careful with your rooting hormone should you choose to use it, and remember that this step is optional.

Stick the leaf into the media so that the bottom is buried nearly three-quarters of an inch in the soil.

Usually, cuttings like this take a lot longer to grow – up to six months! Water thoroughly only when the media is dry.

You can tell that rooting has been successful if tiny plantlets start to shoot out beside the primary cutting.

If you planted your cutting in a cell pack, wait until the plantlets have grown in size before repotting in a pot twice the size of the individual cell pack. If you planted your cutting in a pot, then there is no need to repot unless the roots have outgrown their container.

Snake plants are a bit different… in a good way! When you take a leaf cutting from a snake plant, it’s important that you take your cutting as close to the media as possible.

You then want to cut off the old tissue (the bottom of the leaf) and the youngest tissue (the very top of the leaf). The only part that should remain is the flat, middle part of the leaf – I call it the “teenager tissue.”

Learn more about propagating snake plants in our guide.

Cane Cuttings

In my opinion, this is the propagation technique that requires the most attention to detail.

You can use this on dumb cane, dracaena plants, and Chinese evergreens – basically anything with a thick stem!

Start by preparing your media of choice- I would highly recommend using a cell pack or small pot filled with potting soil. You will need one cell or container for each cutting.

Take the mother plant and pick any stem, or cane, that looks healthy, with no brown spots or damage.

Cut it above an old leaf node close to the soil. These are places where leaves used to be. They usually take the form of brown, tear-drop shaped spots on the stem.

Cut off the leaves at the top and discard, or set aside to root separately as you would a stem or leaf cutting.

Before you start cutting the stem into sections, you need to find two leaf nodes that are three to six inches apart. Cut a section starting above the first node and ending below the second node.

I like to also cut out a notch to help me remember which way was pointing upward!

Repeat this process until you have carefully cut up the entire cane.

Take your cuttings and dip the cut base of the stem into the rooting hormone, if you wish to use it.

Create a hole in the soil that is the width of your stem and one and a half inches deep.

Place your cane cutting in the hole vertically and pinch the soil around it for stability.

After you have stabilized your propagule, water thoroughly. You should only water again when the soil has dried completely.

Monitor over the next several weeks for signs of new growth by checking for sprouts coming from the cutting.

Once sprouts have emerged, you can either keep it in its existing pot until substantial growth occurs, or repot it immediately into a pot double the size of the existing roots.

Now that our gardens are established and we’ve moved in and gotten comfortable on the new homestead, we’re back to experimenting with terra preta. Our previous terra preta experiment came to an end due to our move; however, we get quite a few comments asking for updates on how it went.

I can’t say, since we no longer have access to that property. Yet we can start again.

And we’re starting now, since few things came together at once for us.

First, a local restaurant said we could have all their chicken waste, which is mostly leg bones. We’re getting about 12 trays of chicken parts a week right now.

Second, my friend James brought over his backhoe to level the ground for our new greenhouse, then used it to dig us a big new biochar burning trench.

Third, the weather is cooling off and fires are fun again. 100-degree days are just miserable!

What’s Missing

We currently need lots of pottery fragments to complete our mix. We may also have to create a humanure composting toilet system again in order to completely recreate the ancient “waste site” properly. We’ll also need more clay, as the Amazonian terra preta sites were built in clay, not sandy, soil. Finally, we’ll throw in some vegetable waste as well, as well as some forest duff.

We filmed a video of our new burning setup yesterday and will probably post that tomorrow.

The remnants of a burn really are impressive:

Even if we don’t manage to recreate terra preta, we will have lots of good minerals ending up in the garden.

Have a great Tuesday.

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Hi GPODers, this is Joseph, your GPOD editor. Fall is here in my Indiana garden, which means bulb-planting time! I’ve been going through old pictures looking at some of my favorite bulbs and scheming which ones I need to add to my new garden. Here are some things I’ve got on my list. What are your favorite bulbs? Send in pics! I’d love to share them on the GPOD.

I love all tulips, but lately I’ve been having a thing for the smaller, species varieties, like this Tulipa clusiana (Zones 3–7)—all the elegance of a tulip in a smaller, more perennial package.

Tulipa ‘Little Princess’ (Zones 3–8) is a wonderful little bulb with cheery orange-and-yellow flowers.

Tulipa ‘Little Beauty’ (Zones 3–8) is a closely related hybrid to ‘Little Princess’ in a wonderful red color, with a dramatic bit of blue at the base of the petals. I love both of them and find that they do come back year after year if I give them good drainage and keep the squirrels from eating them.

And one last tulip: Tulipa tarda (Zones 3–8) is the most vigorous tulip I’ve ever grown, multiplying each year to make lovely clumps.

I’m in the mood for a lot of bulbs—which is why I think I need some of this unusual little daffodil in my garden: Narcissus bulbicodium (Zones 4–8). The individual flowers are small, but planted in a mass they make a wonderful display, and they have such a sweet, different look to the blooms.

The daffodil looks totally typical, but it has one very wonderful trait: It is incredible early to bloom. This is the cultivar ‘Rijnveld’s Early Sensation’ (Zones 3–8), and it is always the first of the big daffodils to come into bloom, often getting covered with snow after it starts but not missing a beat.

Grape hyacinths are so great. I love the soft sky-blue color of this cultivar, Muscari ‘Valeire Finnis’ (Zones 4–8). It is just as tough, pest resistant, and fragrant as a normal grape hyacinth, but I just love the subtle color. It looks amazing with daffodils.

And let’s not forget natives. Although it’s not on the usual list of fall bulbs, great white trillium (Trillium grandiflorum, Zones 3–8) thrives when planted in the fall like your other bulbs.

Although not technically a bulb—but still great planted in the fall with daffodils and an essential source of early spring color for a shade garden—is the wonderful native Virginia bluebells (Mertensia virginica, Zones 3–9)

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

On the flip side of too much rain, the experts warned gardeners that we need to start planning now for less water available to us in the future. Panel host Edwina von Gal shared her worries about the rate at which we are using up our groundwater. David Godshall of Terremoto presented a reimagined garden for an iconic midcentury home by A. Quincy Jones that eschewed the water-hungry Japanese garden full of azaleas for a new understory of drought-tolerant plants that are 60-percent California natives. Isabella Tree, whose latest addition to her estate is a xeric garden with more than 900 types of plants from around the globe, was more blunt. “We’ve got to stop watering our gardens,” Tree said. “It is an indulgence we can no longer afford.”

7. The conversation around native plants will be more nuanced.

While enthusiasm for native plants abounded, the experts suggest gardeners (and the media) need to move away from a dogmatic doctrine of only native plants–both to eliminate the shaming of gardeners who might still want to grow dahlias and roses, but also because in a rapidly changing climate, we may need to be more open-minded about what plants are suitable for our regions. Abra Lee, the director of horticulture at Oakland Cemetery, also spoke to the danger of demeaning plants, citing the example of English ivy, an aggressive spreader and also the symbol of the Black sorority Alpha Kappa Alpha. Lee leaves the ivy growing on the grave of the sorority’s founder Marie Antoinette Woolfolk, because of its symbolic significance to the Black community.

At the same time, gardeners will likely become more discerning about the sources of our native plants. McMackin wondered aloud about the long-term sustainability of cultivars of echinacea, grown in the midwest and shipped to New York City. McMackin also acknowledged that may be the best option available: For her own recent project it was impossible to find straight species native plants, so she used more readily available cultivars.

8. Historic gardens will not be preserved in amber.

Godshall described Terremoto’s work to revive the landscape around the communal buildings at Sea Ranch, a private community on the National Register of Historic Places, as utilizing both “reverence and recklessness.” Another speaker from the Culture panel, Brent Leggs, who is the executive for the National Trust’s African American Cultural Heritage Action Fund, explained the Trust’s approach to preserving the home of John and Alice Coltrane, where there is little evidence of the original landscape: The Trust contracted Nelson Byrd Woltz Landscape Architects to develop a landscape plan that is “a reflection of the Coltranes’ contributions to music and culture.” While at other properties, the Trust is striving to preserve the vernacular landscape, which Leggs says we must value equally with high-design landscapes. 

9. The way we talk about gardens will change.

All the experts agree that native plants are vitally important to our future gardens, but McMackin also spoke about the need to shift the way we speak about native plants and invasives, pointing to the cautionary tale of Europe where these ideals have been used to promote nationalism and xenophobia. Instead of emphasizing “native” plants, McMackin says she likes to talk about “local” plants and “ecological function,” which encourages gardeners to think about plants more deeply. 

10. Gardeners will examine the industry more deeply.

Terremoto’s Godshall included images not only of his firm’s landscapes, but also of the workers installing them, saying, “Landscape labor is rendered invisible in our current media, and that needs to change.” Von Gal pointed to homeowners waking up to the true cost of the stereotypical lawn, which while relatively affordable to install is one of the most expensive to maintain over time. McMackin urged gardeners to get to know their growers and ask themselves how they are growing their plants (Do they grow locally? Do they use neonics?) and how they treat their workers. She also longs to see more gardeners collecting seeds and growing their own plants. 

In short, these experts see our relationships with our gardens becoming richer, deeper, and more filled with meaning. It’s a vision of the future any gardener is sure to embrace.

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One of the most useful organic weed killers isn’t a chemical at all…

Or, in the case of our fall garden, “woven landscape fabric,” which serves the same job as a tarp of killing weeds with a few additional benefits:

Woven nursery fabric is superior to using a tarp, as it:

1. Allows water through
2. Lasts for a decade or more
3. Is much cheaper on a square foot basis
4. Does not degrade easily in the sun

Using plastic in the garden isn’t my favorite, but since I already have some extra woven landscape fabric from my nursery business, it’s very hard to resist using it to kill weeds.

When you spread it out, just overlap it a bit at the edges, then hammer in landscape staples to pin it down. If you run out of those, just use old boards, rocks, bricks and whatever other random junk you have to keep it from blowing away.

Some people use silage tarps to kill off weeds; however, they are large, heavy, and not available in my area.

There’s also a benefit to having water pass through into the ground, which you don’t get from silage tarps. As it rains on top of woven nursery fabric, the water passes right through and wets the weeds and, more importantly, their seeds, causing organic matter to rot down nicely while also inducing germination of the weed seeds, which, after sprouting beneath the fabric, subsequently die from lack of sunlight. Win win win!

This is just one method you can use to kill weeds. John Moody covers many more in his book Winning the War on Weeds, which is well-worth reading.

We’re not the biggest fans of plastic, but hey: this summer things got out of control, plus my weed torch got run over. It works great, too, so we’re rolling with it. You could lasagna garden instead, but this does not require getting a bunch of mulch and cardboard to work.

A final note: Most “landscape fabrics” or weed blocks at the big box stores are totally worthless. Spend the money and get the Dewitt version. We wasted money on the other junk in the past and won’t make the same mistake again.

Further resources:

WINNING THE WAR ON WEEDS: https://amzn.to/3PHNC6y

DEWITT SUNBELT WOVEN FABRIC: https://amzn.to/45nmvUs

LANDSCAPE STAPLES: https://amzn.to/3Q2SWDb

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Don’t use harmful chemicals in your garden! Learn how to prevent garden pests and diseases organically with these tips.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links See my disclosure policy for more information. 

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5 Ways to Prevent Garden Pests Organically

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1. Focus on your soil

Most important! Healthy soil & healthy plants = fewer problems. Healthy plants are much less susceptible to pests and diseases. When a plant is struggling, it is more likely to succumb to damage from insects and other diseases. 

Healthy soil, rich in organic matter and microbes, is one way to prevent garden pests organically. The microbes break down the organic matter and make it available to plants as nutrients. Your plants will be healthier as a result.

Take a good look at your soil; it should be rich, loose, and hopefully full of life, with worms and lots of good stuff! If it is, great! Keep up what you are doing. If it isn’t, take steps to correct it. The soil will improve over time as you make it a priority. 

Consider getting your soil tested. This is the soil test kit I use. 

• Determine your soil structure: Sandy, clay, or loamy types have different characteristics. Ideally, your soil is loamy, a combination of clay and sandy types. This is the most desirable for growing plants.
• Feed your soil! Organic amendments are the most effective way to promote long-term soil health and fertility. Things such as blood meal, bone meal, worm castings, and Azomite help feed the microbes in the soil and promote healthy plants. 
• Learn how to compost or buy different types of compost and add some to the soil each time you plant.  

Over time, your soil structure will improve, and your plants will have what they need to thrive and resist pests and diseases organically.

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2. Implement companion planting practices

Take advantage of plants that help each other grow, repel harmful insects, and attract pollinators and other helpful insects. Companion planting is an important part of preventing pests and diseases in the garden organically.

Grow plants like basil, garlic, marigolds, and chives together to help prevent pests. Plant flowers like cosmos, sunflowers, and alyssum to attract beneficial insects that will keep the garden healthy.

Provide sources of food and water for pollinators like butterflies!

Here are a few of my favorite companion plants:

Onions – Onions are great friends to tomatoes, the cabbage family, and strawberries. I plant one or two bulbs in and among all those plants.

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Nasturtiums – Prolific and edible nasturtiums may help repel squash bugs, blackflies, whiteflies, and borers. Tomatoes, radishes, squash, and fruit trees benefit from nasturtiums planted nearby.

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Marigolds – Tomatoes, strawberries, apple trees, and beans love marigolds. Marigolds discourage nematodes. 

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3. Rotate where you plant crops each season

There are many reasons to rotate where you plant your crops, but preventing pests and diseases organically is a big one!   

If you plant tomatoes or broccoli in the same place year after year, you are giving the pests and diseases a head start! The disease or eggs may already be in the soil; when their favorite host plant is there again, it’s a party.

Instead, rotate where you plant in the garden. If the disease or pest in the soil finds carrots (which they don’t happen to like), they may die trying to find their way back to those tasty tomatoes.

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4. Spend time in your garden each day

Make daily walks through your garden a habit. I love walking around and noticing the new growth and blossoms. Use this time to be on the lookout for problems as well.

• Check the undersides of leaves for eggs or bugs.
• Notice if caterpillar frass (poop) is present; it’s one of the easiest ways to spot hornworm caterpillars feasting on your tomatoes. If you see the frass, the hornworm is probably nearby!
• Look for damage to leaves or stems of plants, and look around for the culprit.
• Try to be in your garden when your drip or water system is running; you will spot leaks or watering problems immediately. A battery died in my irrigation timer last year, and it took me a couple of days to realize what had happened. The plants were stressed by no water, and the bugs moved in. I had to pull out infested cucumber plants.

Spending time in your garden alerts you to small problems before they get larger. It’s much easier to pick off a few snails, squash bug eggs, or squash bugs than an army of them.

Here’s a tip: If check your garden in the morning, when it’s cooler, some bugs (like squash bugs) are more sluggish and easier to catch.

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5. Wait for beneficial insects to help you

The goal of organic gardening is to get a mini-ecosystem going on in your garden. A few aphids come, and then hopefully, here come the ladybugs.

Don’t be too quick to get rid of bugs. If the plant’s overall health won’t be affected by a couple of bugs, just keep an eye on it. Remember that when you spray, especially when you are using chemicals, you might kill the good guys as well as the bad guys. If you do decide to spray, start with water.

Always use a light hand, even with organic control methods.

Consider pulling heavily infested plants rather than treating them repeatedly. Often, plants become infested when they reach the end of their life cycle.

Learn to recognize beneficial and harmful insects in all their forms (eggs,  larvae, pupae, adult, etc.). Be an informed organic gardener and welcome beneficial insects into your garden.

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Lacewings

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Praying Mantis 

They can be an effective form of natural pest control in the garden. However, it is important to remember that they are not selective in what they eat and may also feed on beneficial insects like bees and ladybugs.

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The easiest fall flowers to grow in Arizona (and other mild winter climates) are simple to plant, care for, and bloom through spring. Don’t forget to add some flowers when planning your fall garden!

If you’re wondering which fall flowers to plant in the Phoenix Valley and surrounding areas, this post shares my top ten picks for easy-growing cool-season annual flowers.

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10 Easiest Flowers to Grow in Arizona in the Fall

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The oppressive heat of an Arizona summer is (almost!) gone. Heat-tolerating flowers have mostly survived, but they are definitely looking tired. It’s time to swap them out for new flowers that will grow and thrive during Arizona’s cooler months. The options seem overwhelming, and you may ask yourself: 

• What are the easiest flowers to grow in Arizona in the fall? 
• Which flowers can I plant from transplant in the fall that grow well through spring?
• Which flowers can I plant in the fall that will last through spring? 
• Which flowers are simple to care for? 
• Are there annual flowers that grow well in pots and containers? 
• Which flowers can I buy from a big box store that will grow well and not die in a couple of weeks? 

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Here are my ten choices for easy-to-grow fall flowers

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1. Snapdragons

Good to know: Attracts bees and butterflies. It is one of the easiest cool-season flowers to grow. Cutting the central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Excellent cut flower.

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2. Blue Salvia

Plant transplants outside:
September 15 – October
March-May 15

Months in bloom: April – early December

Good to know: Reseeds. Attracts hummingbirds and butterflies. Several colors and varieties. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Pairs well with lobelia.

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3. Geranium

Good to know: Remove flowers for the first few weeks to allow the plant to get established. Keep dead-headed for better blooms. Does best with regular water and 4-6 hours of sun. Pairs well with alyssum.

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4. Petunias

Good to know: Pinch off flowers when first planted to encourage root development. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Easy to grow. Needs regular watering. 

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5. Gazania

Good to know: Considered a perennial flower, but often grown as an annual in the low desert of Arizona.

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10 Easy-to-grow Fall Flowers

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6. Alyssum

Good to know: Easy to grow. Grows well in the sun or part shade. Reseeds easily. Attracts many beneficial insects and pollinators. Pairs well with geraniums.

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7. Dianthus

Good to know: Easy to grow. Edible. Comes in many colors.

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8. Marigold

Good to know: Good companion plant in the garden. Reseeds easily. Easy to grow. Needs regular water. Cutting the central stem early produces fuller branching stems. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. 

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Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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9. Pansies and Violets

Good to know: Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Edible. Easy to grow. Needs part shade.

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10. Lobelia

Good to know: Prefers part sun. Needs regular water. Wait until hot temperatures subside to plant transplants. Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms. Pairs well with blue saliva.

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If you’re a gardener in a hot climate (like me), you may have grown okra and wondered what to do with the excess harvest. How about using the abundance to make okra water? In this blog post, I’ll share the health benefits of okra water and show you how to make and use it.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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How to make okra water

To make okra water, all you need is fresh okra and water. 

1. Start by washing the okra pods and cutting off the stems.
2. Then, slice the okra pods in half or coarsely chop them.
3. Place the okra in a jar or a large bowl and cover it with water.
4. Refrigerate and let it sit overnight or for at least 8 hours.
5. The water will turn slimy, slightly thick, and have a neutral or somewhat earthy taste.
6. Once the water has infused with okra and turned into a gel-like substance, strain the liquid through a fine-mesh strainer or cheesecloth.
7. Add lemon juice or honey to the water to add flavor.
8. Store the okra water in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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Health benefits of okra water

This tender vegetable is an excellent source of fiber, vitamins, and antioxidants and has many health benefits.¹ Okra water can help boost your immune system, fight inflammation, and improve your heart health.²

Okra water contains a high amount of soluble fiber, antioxidants, and vitamin C, which makes it a nourishing drink for your body. Here are some of the health benefits of okra water:

• Boosts immune system: Okra water contains vitamin C and other nutrients that can help strengthen your immune system and protect your body against infections, viruses, and diseases.
• Prevents constipation: The soluble fiber found in okra water can help regulate bowel movements and reduce symptoms of constipation, as it acts as a natural laxative.
• Regulates blood sugar levels: If you have diabetes or pre-diabetes, drinking okra water may help stabilize your blood sugar levels and improve insulin sensitivity. The fiber in okra water slows down the absorption of sugar from your intestines and into your bloodstream, which can prevent blood sugar spikes.
• Lowers cholesterol: The soluble fiber in okra water can also help reduce harmful cholesterol levels in your blood. By binding to bile acids in your gut, the fiber prevents them from being absorbed, forcing your liver to produce more bile from existing cholesterol, lowering your cholesterol levels.

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How to use okra water

You can drink okra water as a refreshing beverage by adding ice cubes, lemon wedges, mint, herbs, or your favorite sweeteners. I like to use 2 parts water to 1 part okra water, and add lemon, mint, and ice.

Okra water can also be used as a base for smoothies, juice blends, or tea infusions. Use okra water in recipes that call for liquid, such as soups, stews, and sauces.

When using okra water in cooking, remember that it has a neutral taste and can thicken liquids due to its natural mucilage. To avoid slimy textures, use okra water in moderation or mix it with other liquids.

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Tips for growing and harvesting okra

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Okra water is a simple and affordable way to boost your health and enjoy the benefits of this nutritious vegetable. Whether you grow your own okra plant or buy fresh okra from your local farmers’ market, you can enjoy the many flavors and nutrients that okra has to offer. So try okra water and see how it can benefit your body and taste buds!

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Sources that offer more information on the health benefits of okra:

1. “Okra Nutrition Facts.” Healthline, 22 May 2020, https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/okra-nutrition.
2. “Okra: Health Benefits and Nutritional Information.” Medical News Today, 22 June 2018, https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/318595.

Disclaimer: The information provided in this blog post about the potential health benefits of okra water is for educational purposes only and not intended as medical advice. Always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before changing your diet or lifestyle. The author and publisher of this blog post are not responsible for any adverse effects that may arise from using the information provided herein.

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Their kits are made of long-lasting materials, they’re endlessly customizable, and they include things like built-in lights and trellises if that’s something you want (and I do!).

We’re going to go over the Vego system to look at how it worked for me and whether it might be right for you.

I don’t recommend my method, though.

For instance, the trellis needs to be installed before you fill the bed with dirt, which is something I would have figured out before I went ahead and dumped all my dirt in if I had bothered to read the instructions first.

I’m just saying that the design is easy to understand and assemble.

The panels secure to one another using machine screws. Once you create your outer shape, you can add the top protective strip.

Pro tip: If you have any accessories, attach them now!

The absolute worst part of the assembly was removing the sticky plastic coating from both sides of each panel.

It took forever and destroyed my fingernails. But I appreciate that it protected the panels, and they all arrived in pristine condition.

Other than that, assembly was incredibly easy and took me under an hour (if you don’t count the time it took me to dig out the dirt so I could attach the trellis correctly…)

Once completed, I lined the ground with several layers of cardboard. Then, in went the soil and some peppers and squash plants.

Value and Quality

No matter how much you prep and care for them, wooden garden beds will break down over time. While Vego kits cost more up front, they are made to last.

The company claims they designed their system to last for over 20 years. If that ends up being my experience, it means they will last at least twice as long as any wood one I’ve made.

The panels are sturdy. They’re thicker than your typical corrugated metal, and they’re coated in rust-resistant paint in multiple color options, with plastic coating the edges.

Not only does this eliminate the chance that you’ll slice your skin open on the edge of the metal (done that!), but it also limits the amount of water that gets into the metal, causing rust.

I love that the corners are rounded, so you won’t stumble into them and bruise your shin while watering in the dark after a long day. That happens to everyone, right?

If you’ve ever tried to round corrugated metal, you know it’s a daunting task that rarely turns out symmetrical and without dents. And don’t even think about bending wood.

The metal used to construct these beds is a first in the gardening industry. It’s steel hot-dipped in zinc, magnesium, and aluminum. The combination resists corrosion and protects the metal from rusting.

The material has been verified at the Texas A&M National Corrosion & Metals Reliability Lab, which tests materials for reliability and longevity.

Vego Garden states that in lab tests, the material was shown to be as good as or better than competitors in most environments and to far exceed competitors in high heat and high humidity environments.

Vego Garden partnered with Netherlands-based AzkoNobel to develop a USDA-approved paint for food production. That means it doesn’t contain any heavy metals like mercury, lead, or selenium that could leach into your plants.

The paint is specifically made to resist ammonia and other chemicals found in manure and fertilizers.

The white painted lining on the inside of the panels reduces heat buildup and reflection onto plants growing inside.

I can attest to the effectiveness of this paint coating from my own experience.

Some of my DIY beds are made out of corrugated metal, and the soil six inches in from the side felt hotter to the touch than soil six inches away from the side in the Vego bed.

The paint on the outside is made to reduce reflectivity to maintain a more stable temperature inside the bed as well. No more being blinded by bright sun reflecting off shiny metal!

It’s not just about protecting your eyes, either. A friend of mine realized that her metal beds had been reflecting the sun onto her potting shed and had melted the plastic walls. Heat from the sun is powerful!

Vego Garden has tested the material and claims that it won’t degrade and leach chemicals into your garden soil even in the heat.

I doubt the company was overly concerned about cleanliness, but I also found that the paint had a sort of nonstick quality to it.

While my other beds, wooden ones especially, became stained and dirty after I repeatedly splashed water onto the interior while watering, the soil just washed right off the painted metal.

Speaking of aesthetics, Vego Garden did take this into account, as evidenced by the fact that their products come in pearl white, olive green, modern gray, and British green options.

When the material is eventually ready for retirement, it’s completely recyclable.

Have you ever been told to appreciate the small moments in life? Gardening glimmers are the little cues you feel while puttering in the yard or enjoying nature, giving you a small boost of happiness. They’re abundant and everywhere and can make a huge difference in your mental health. Here’s how to seek them out!

When we talk about joy, we often talk about the big moments in life. For me, buying a new house, watching Kiddo grow up, publishing a new book, or even going on a vacation are clear moments of joy.

But we often don’t talk about the small moments. I mean these fleeting seconds where if you blink, you might miss it.

Have you ever noticed what makes you feel relaxed? We all know what stresses us out, but very few of us are attuned to understanding what makes us feel better.

Glimmers are these small moments in everyday life that give us a quick moment of peace and happiness. And when you get a lot of them, well, it makes a big impact.

I’m going to share with you how to identify glimmers and all of the amazing gardening glimmers I notice on the regular.

This post will cover…

What is a Glimmer?

Glimmers are those small moments in life that make you smile. They’re the baseline of joy.

More scientifically, they’re the opposite of triggers. Triggers are those moments that cue your nervous system to be on alert. Flight or fright kicks in.

Your nervous system is always subconsciously scanning your surroundings for cues. Your sixth sense will scan situations and people, letting you know how to react. It may find triggers or, hopefully, glimmers.

Glimmers are these micro-moments that cue your nervous system into a state of relaxation and where you feel safe. They reduce your emotional stress and return you to a more regulated state.

Glimmers can be as simple as humming while you work or smelling freshly baked cookies. And because they’re so much more subtle than triggers, they can be harder to notice.

Glimmers is a term coined by Deb Dana, an LCSW and psychotherapist. It’s part of the Polyvagel theory developed by Dr. Stephan Porges.

What is Glimmer Hunting?

Glimmers are all around us, but we don’t always see them. You may be in such a bad mood that you don’t notice the cherry blossom rain coming down while you walk to the bus stop.

We need to train ourselves to look for glimmers. They can be predictable, like how you know smelling a flower will bring joy, or unpredictable, as in you didn’t know a ladybug would land on you while picking weeds.

The best way to hunt for glimmers is to be patient and open. Start identifying these glimmers, and you’ll begin to notice them more and more.

Every person will have different glimmers since we all enjoy different things. For me, seeing a fuzzy bumblebee makes me smile, but for others, they could run away in fright.

Knowing your glimmers can help promote a sense of peace and allow you to connect better with others and your surroundings.

Glimmers are a game changer for mental health. They may be small and brief individually, but they become substantial together. They can help reprogram a nervous system, often in flight or fight mode, to a calmer state.

Gardening Glimmers

While out in the garden, you can find many, many glimmers. Gardening can act as an anti-trauma and healing activity. It forces you away from stimulation from screens and the hustle and allows you to take a deep breath and be amongst the natural therapy of nature.

Here are just a few glimmers that I get from my garden.

1.Watching an earthworm bask in the rain.

2. Getting to eat your first harvest of the season.

3. When a slight coat of frost covers the trees.

4. Crunching a leaf in the fall.

5. Seeing the first tulip emerge after a long winter.

6. Washing the dirt off your hands after a sprint in the garden.

7. The sound of windchimes blowing in the wind.

8. Gardening alongside someone you love.

9. Blowing a dandelion seed head into the wind.

10. Cooking with materials from your garden.

11. A bee visiting your bee house you made just for her.

12. When a beautiful volunteer plant blooms in your garden.

13. Sitting alone on your patio, enjoying the sights of your garden.

14. Staying up late to watch the stars.

15. Rainfall during a drought.

16. Watching a stranger passing by admire your garden.

17. Pulling a weed and getting the whole dang root, too.

18. Gifting someone a homemade present and getting to tell them you made it just for them.

19. Seeing the magic of butterfly pea flower tea.

20. Running through the sprinkler on a hot afternoon.

21. Cutting flowers from your garden and giving them to someone else.

22. Slicing up your newest batch of soap.

23. When your houseplant grows a new leaf.

24. The smell of freshly snipped herbs.

25. Gardening in your pyjamas.

26. A visiting bird enjoying your feeder.

27. Making eye contact with a hummingbird.

28. Squirrels running along your fence.

29. The sound of a running water fountain.

30. A butterfly paying a visit to your annuals.

31. Drinking a garden cocktail outside.

32. Stopping by a little seed library.

33. Discovering a new cool plant species.

34. Planting bulbs in the fall.

35. Relaxing in the bathtub after a big garden session.

36. Taking a moment of rest when you need it.

37. Talking to your plants because they’re some of your best friends.

38. When your tomatoes ripen before the first frost.

39. Warm sunshine on your skin.

40. A wonderfully weird mushroom growing.

41. The first sight of seedlings growing.

42. Eating fresh fruit straight from the tree.

43. Trying a new recipe, and it tastes great.

44. Propagating a new plant.

45. Watching a tree you planted grow into something large and magnificent.

46. Passing on the love of gardening to someone special in your life.

47. When your seeds arrive in the mail.

48. A sunflower following the sun’s rays.

49. Learning a valuable lesson about growing plants.

50. Feeling a deep connection to a garden space.

Share your gardening glimmers in the comments below!

More Ways to Spread Gardening Joy

Would you like to grow healthy and beautiful lavender plants in your garden? This guide to the best companion plants for lavender will help you to do just that.

One of the best ways to keep your lavender plants happy is to grow them alongside beneficial companion plants.

The best companion plants for lavender

In this article, we’ll take a look at 26 perfect companion plants to keep lavender happy and thriving – and which plants you need to avoid.

We’ll also cover what companion planting is, and the benefits it offers to your plants and the garden in general.

Read on for a guide to the best companion plants for lavender.

What is companion planting?

Companion planting involves growing different types of plants next to each other, in order to provide a range of benefits for the plants.  It’s sometimes referred to as companion gardening, which means the same thing.

Some combinations of plants are really good for each other, while other combinations can actually prevent plants from growing well.

For successful companion planting, you need the plants you’re growing together to be suited to the same conditions.

If you get companion planting right, your plants can offer each other a range of benefits.  These include:

• Aiding pollination – one plant attracts the pollinating insects that the other plant needs.
• Pest control – plants can repel pests from their usual host plants, or attract those pests themselves to limit damage to another plant.
• Preventing disease – some varieties of plants offer antibacterial or anti-fungal properties.
• Supporting plant growth – by enriching soil with nutrients that other plants need.

Using companion planting also allows you to cut down or completely avoid the use of chemical pest control products, so it’s a great option for gardening sustainably.

As you can see, there are lots of very good reasons to consider companion planting in your garden.

Does lavender benefit from companion planting?

Loved by gardeners and pollinators alike, lavender is a hardy perennial plant that can provide months of colour, fragrant flowers, and pollen.  It’s a drought tolerant plant and will thrive in a sunny location.

Adding low-maintenance plants like lavender to a garden not only creates dimension and variety, but also attracts beneficial insects while requiring little water.

Despite being a tough, low maintenance plant, lavender will definitely benefit from companion planting. As well as helping to keep your lavender plants happy, you can use companion planting to create a beautiful display and wow factor in the garden.

The best lavender companion plants

Here are our top companion plants for lavender to help you grow a stunning, fragrant display.

Echinacea

Echinacea purpurea (also known as purple coneflower) produces large, daisy-like flowers on single stems from midsummer to early autumn. The large, wide flowers of echinacea provide excellent contrast next to the small clusters of flowers produced by lavender. Echinacea blooms are white or pink, so the colour contrast is great too.

The flower stems on echinacea plants can reach up to 3 feet high, which means they can make a statement next to the bushy habit of lavender plants.

On a practical level, Echinacea has similar growing needs to lavender: lots of sun, well-draining soil, and not much water.  Pair these two plants for a low-effort, impactful display.

Yarrow

Yarrow (also known as achillea) is sometimes referred to as a weed, because it can get out of control in rich, fertile soil. However, in poorer soils you can keep it in check. As lavender is happy in poor soil, yarrow works well as a companion plant.

Achillea plants produce clumps of small flowers on tall stalks in shades of yellow, peach and white. These colours will all look fantastic next the the purple hues of lavender plants.

Yarrow also attracts predatory insects, so it will help to keep pests under control in the garden.

Sage

Sage is one of the best lavender companion plants. All types of this aromatic herb can work as an excellent companion plant for lavender in your flower beds.

Sage plants produce long fragrant oblong or slender greenish-gray foliage, depending on the variety.  The tones and shape of this foliage looks great alongside lavender plants. The small flowers will also provide contrast.

White sage (Salvia apiana) works well in a lavender garden because this plant grows 3 to 4 feet tall, around the same size as many types of lavender. Other good choices include Clary sage (Salvia sclarea), which grows 2 to 3 feet tall and produces pink and purple flowers.

Salvia

Salvias are ornamental sage. As such they enjoy similar growing conditions, which makes them good companions for lavender.

Salvias area available in a range of heights and shades of pink and purple. Use taller varieties to add height to a lavender display, and smaller varieties for low-level interest or in pots.

Sedum

Think of sedums as a filler plant alongside your lavender.  They are shade tolerant, so you can tuck them into gaps, and they’ll be perfectly happy in dry, warm conditions.

Sedums flower later than lavender, which allows you to extend the flowering season and provide a source of nectar for pollinating insects right into autumn.

Sedums are available in a range of flower colours, including white, orange, yellow and reds.  As such they can provide excellent contrast to the purple blooms of lavender.

Roses

The texture and colours of shrub roses are a good complement for lavender, and they both enjoy similar conditions.

Combining rose bushes and lavender in a border will also deliver strong fragrance, so if you’re prioritising scent in the garden it’s a great addition to consider.

Lavender’s strong scent may even divert pests away from your precious roses.

Blue Fescue

Also known as Festuca glauca, this is a dwarf ornamental grass. As the name suggests, the foliage is silver-blue, which tones well with lavender.

Blue fescue forms small mounds of leaves, so it’s good for ground cover around lavender plants.

Alliums

Allium bulbs (also known as ornamental onions) look fantastic in amongst a drift of lavender.  The tall stems and impressive flower globes provide excellent contrast, and you can use a range of purples and whites to create a gorgeous colour palette.

Alliums belong to the onion family, so they will also do a great job repelling a number of pests.

Echinops

The spherical flower heads of globe thistles will create a similar effect to alliums when paired with lavender. These plants love sun and well-drained soil, and will attract all manner of pollinators to the garden.

African Daisy

Also known as ostespermum, African daisies are brilliant plants for pots and garden borders.  They work well with lavender’s foliage and flower colour, and are happy in full sun and drier soil.

Gypsophila

Gypsophila is often called baby’s breath, and with its tiny, delicate flowers it’s easy to see why.  Those dainty blooms work brilliantly amongst lavender, adding a touch of froth and a contrast in flower shape, size and colour.

Like lavender, gypsophila will be happy in full sun and drier conditions.

Zinnias

With their round flower heads and striking shades, zinnias provide the perfect pop of colour in amongst lavender plants.  And this tough little annual plant is also happy to grow in the dry conditions that lavender loves.

As an added bonus, zinnias will attract many beneficial pollinating insects to your garden beds.

Gaillardia

Another daisy-like option, gaillardia (or blanket flower) has beautiful open flowers that complement lavender nicely.  It’s another bold option, with plants available in shades of orange, yellow and deep red.

Geraniums

Geraniums are unfussy plants that will grow well in poor soil and full sun.  Their abundant, open flowers and low-growing habit make them a great partner for lavender.

Marigolds

If it’s bold contrast you want, marigolds and lavender will deliver.  The vibrant yellows and oranges of marigold flowers will really pop against a backdrop of lavender, and these plants are well-suited to a sunny location and well-draining or sandy soil.

Kniphofia

The red hot poker plant is native to South Africa, where it grows in a hot, sunny climate. These heat-loving plants produce stunning tall flower spikes in fiery shades, so they look amazing against a backdrop of purple lavender flowers.

Daylilies

A truly impressive companion for lavender plants, daylilies (or Hemerocallis) have large, trumpet-shaped flowers and spear-like clumps of foliage that contrast well with lavender.

Red Valerian

This bushy plant produces impressive flower spikes in deep red tones and enjoys similar conditions to lavender.  A good option for wow factor.

Centranthus ruber, also known as red valerian or Jupiter’s beard, has small, blue-green leaves and a sprawling, airy growth form, making it a nice contrast to the tight, bushy growth of lavender. It produces bright pink, red or white clusters of tiny flowers mid-June through August and self-sows prolifically. It grows 18 to 24 inches high and spreads to 3 feet.

Coreopsis

Coreopsis (or tickseed) provides a real punch of colour in a lavender garden. The plant is suited to full sun and good drainage, just like lavender.

Black-eyed Susan

Black-eyed Susan (or rudbeckia) is a lovely plant to add to your flower garden, and it’s well-suited to the conditions enjoyed by lavender.  The bright, daisy-like flowers will provide excellent contrast to the purple tones of lavender plants, while also attracting lots of bees, butterflies and beneficial insects.

Rudbeckia is a self-seeding annual, so it’s also a very low maintenance plant that will reward you with blooms year after year.

Shasta Daisy

The Cheery white blooms and yellow centres on shasta daisies look fantastic alongside lavender.  Shasta daisies are truly low maintenance; they don’t demand lots of water, don’t usually suffer from disease or pests, and can grow in dry conditions.  As an added bonus, they will flower for months.

Olives

If you live in a warm climate, olives make lovely companion plants for lavender. They are suited to the same growing conditions, and look fantastic together.

Rosemary

Rosemary plants complement lavender really well. They enjoy the same conditions (they’re both native to the Mediterranean region), and they look great together.

Traditional Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) is a hardy herb that grows 3 to 6 feet tall, and this plant can work well when planted next to lavender varieties that grow more than 2 feet tall.

Blue Boy Rosemary is a compact variety that works well with smaller lavender varieties.

Thyme

Another plant that thrives in the same conditions as lavender, thyme loves heat, sun and poor soil.

The difference in size between the two plants will also create a nice visual impact, and this is equally true if you’re growing lavender in pots.  Thyme is low-growing, and can fill in the gaps at the base of lavender plants.  It produces complimentary purple flowers too.

Oregano

Like thyme, oregano makes a great filler for lavender at ground level.

Oregano is also vital when it comes to attracting the ‘right’ insects.  It’s a host for lacewings, and you definitely want those in your garden, because they prey on aphids, whiteflies and cabbage moths.  In addition, bees and other pollinating insects love oregano.

Catmint

Unlike most mint varieties, catmint is a good lavender companion plant.  It has a similar growth habit and flower colour, so if you want to max out on the purple impact this is a great choice.

Fruit trees

This companion planting is for the benefit of the fruit trees.  Planting lavender in close proximity to your trees will attract more pollinators, which can improve your crop.

Lavender plants will also help to keep codling moths at bay – this is great news if you have apple trees in the garden.

A quick checklist for lavender companion plants

When shopping for garden plants to grow alongside lavender, look for varieties that enjoy the following conditions:

• Well-draining soil
• Low soil nutrient levels (also called ‘poor soil’)
• Full sun
• Warm temperatures
• Occasional drought conditions

Plants to avoid growing alongside lavender

Not all plants are suitable as companion plants for lavender.  Here are the main ones you need to avoid.

Mint

Mint is a low-maintenance plant, but it doesn’t enjoy the same conditions as lavender.

Mint will grow well in rich soil and it likes plenty of moisture, which is pretty much the opposite of lavender.  If you grow both of these plants in the same spot, one of them is going to struggle.

It’s a good idea to grow mint in a pot; you can limit it’s spread, and provide the conditions it needs more easily.

Impatiens

Like mint, impatiens (commonly known as busy lizzie) need moist soil, so they won’t be happy in the same location as lavender.  Impatiens plants also prefer cooler, shadier conditions.

If you’re growing impatiens and lavender in pots, make sure you put them in different containers.

Camellias

Camellia plants offer a wealth of flower colours, many of which would look great next to lavender.  However, they need indirect light and lots of water, so they’re not an ideal neighbour for lavender plants in bright sunlight and dry soil.

Hostas

Hostas love partial shade or indirect sunlight, and thrive in woodland conditions. As a result, these shade-loving plants are a poor match for lavender.

And there you have it: 26 fantastic companion plants for lavender, plus a few you need to avoid.  Use this guide to inform your plant combinations and you’ll be well on the way to a beautiful garden display of healthy, complementary plants.

More gardening tips

Head this way for more useful gardening advice:

Cucumber companion plants

The best plants to grow alongside cucumbers, plus which ones to avoid.

Drought tolerant plants

50 brilliant drought-tolerant plants that can cope with hot, dry weather.

Low maintenance plants for pots

Create a hands-off container garden with this list of fantastic low maintenance plants for outdoor pots.

Easy flowers to grow from seed

12 great low-effort flowers that are perfect for growing from seed.

Wildlife gardening tips

50 simple ways to make your garden more wildlife-friendly.

Pin for later: best companion plants for lavender

Cindy Strickland has shared on the GPOD before (Gardening for a Friend), and today she’s taking us along to visit a beautiful English garden.

Smallhythe Place in Southeast England was once owned by Dame Alice Ellen Terry, a famous English actress of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The property includes an early 16th-century house and gardens.

I thought it was worth a visit to Smallhythe, since I was in the area to see the gardens at Sissinghurst and at Great Dixter. I was not disappointed!

I wanted to share a few photos taken on May 28, 2023. They are mainly of the roses close to the house and of the cottage-style rose garden. Many of the rose plants were just starting to bloom. In one of the photos, you may be able to see how the canes were wired to the house in places.

In the enclosed cottage garden, the grass paths divide the garden into four rectangular areas. The brick path went all the way around the outer edges. The edges of the planted areas looked sharply defined and freshly dug. I am fond of spade-edged beds in my gardens. The allium was abundant and the roses had some open flowers but many unopened buds. Flawless purple lupins grew just outside of the cottage garden.

It was a beautiful and relaxing place to visit!

Beautiful peach roses have been trained up the house.

Window with roses growing around it

Look closely and you can see where the canes are attached to the wall. Climbing roses need careful training to control their growth.

The white alliums in the cottage garden are in peak bloom.

A long path of grass is kept neat by perfect edging.

Italian bugloss (Anchusa azurea, Zones 3–8)

A red rose with bugloss and allium behind it

This view of the cottage garden shows the paths and hedges.

The brick path

Lupins (Lupinus polyphyllus, Zones 3–7) outside of the cottage garden

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Yuzu is the unforgettably aromatic citrus whose zest is a siren call to anyone who loves to eat. Or drink.  Or just smell the world. Whether immature and green, or ripe and golden, this citrus is addictively delicious. The fruit’s season begins in early fall and extends through mid-winter. You can grow your own, or buy them. And preserving your precious crop (or purchase) is half the fun.

Here’s how.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

The perfume of yuzu is very different from lemon. Ripe yuzu is floral and spicy. It’s hard not to smile when you sniff it. The thick skin and aromatic pith make the fruit look slightly rumpled in cross-section, as though a clementine has lost weight inside its jacket and wants to shrug it off.

When unripe and green, the zest is piercing and more herbal. Immature, rock-hard green yuzu come to market around early fall, depending on where they are grown. Their piercingly scented green rind is an essential ingredient in yuzu kosho, an aromatic fermented relish made with hot chiles.

Inside the cut fruit, you will find many (many) large seeds and not too much juice. But it’s the thick skin and pith that are needed to make dramatically fragrant yuja-cheong (transliterated Korean for yuzu marmalade), made by combining fresh yuzu slices with sugar (find our recipe here). Spoonfuls of yuja-cheong are stirred into boiling water for therapeutic tea (yuja-cha), where the slices can be eaten after the liquid has all been sipped. It is also delightful shaken into a cocktail, or stirred into chilled water, for an uplifting celebration.

For gardeners, yuzu trees can be grown in pots or in ground. As September cools into October, my own tree is about to yield a small crop of ripe yellow yuzu, with a second crop to follow. Citrus junos is one of the hardiest of the citrus trees and is able to tolerate freezes in USDA Zone 8. Any colder and you should overwinter it indoors. Yuzu trees from Four Winds Growers are grafted onto dwarf rootstock, which makes them ideal for containers.

Because commercial citrus production is vulnerable (like any monoculture) to pests and diseases, imported yuzu are not currently allowed into the US. But thanks to an increasing number of growers Stateside, fresh fruit is available for a brief season either directly from those growers, online via a vendor, or even at some supermarkets, like Whole Foods. Start looking for them in October, when they will still be green. Ripe fruit tend to be available from December.

Collaborative post

Welcoming a furry friend into your home is something lots of us dream of. But if you’re a parent, it’s important that you consider your options carefully.

While pets are fun and can bring immense joy, they can also be a lot of work. With busy family life, you might not have the time to properly care for a pet.

For example, while a fluffy puppy might be a tempting option, you have to bear in mind that puppies are hard work and a long term commitment.

In this article, we’ll take a look at six of the best low-maintenance pets for kids and families.

1. Fish

This might seem like an obvious and boring choice, but fish are a fantastic option if you’re low on both time and space.

Fish are incredibly low-maintenance. They also don’t make any noise, which is great if you live in an apartment or semi-detached house. 

You might be tempted to grab a goldfish and a simple fish bowl but, while fish are low-maintenance, they aren’t no-maintenance. We suggest investing in a proper fish tank, along with water pumps and other necessary equipment to keep your pet happy.

2. Tortoise

Tortoises might be slow, but they’re adorable. They’re also pretty low maintenance and, depending on the species you get, won’t grow too big. This is a fantastic pet if you have a bit more room and some outdoor space. 

Tortoises live on a diet of various plants and vegetables such as green peppers, strawberries, and tomatoes. So, you won’t have to go out of your way to purchase special foods. 

The only downside to this amazing animal is the tortoise lifespan. Some tortoises can outlive their owners but, much like their sizing, the lifespan varies according to the species. We recommend doing your research before taking the plunge.

3. Guinea Pig

Guinea pigs are a popular pet for children. They’re small, soft, and incredibly fluffy. They’re also easy to handle and pretty low maintenance. 

However, we recommend doing your due diligence when it comes to guinea pig enclosures. Guinea pigs need plenty of space and bedding matter that’s deep enough to dig little tunnels. They also need a constant supply of chewing material for enrichment. So, while they’re low-maintenance, it can take a bit of work to prepare for the arrival of your new pet. 

Much like tortoises, guinea pigs do fine on a variety of vegetables like carrots and grain. It’s a good idea to supervise your kids to ensure they don’t overfeed their new friend.

4. Hamster

Hamsters make excellent first pets for kids. Once you’ve setup their home, these furry friends are simple to care for. Make sure to add a water bottle, food dish, and, of course, a hamster wheel for exercise.

Similar to guinea pigs, you’ll have to put some thought into your hamster enclosure. While little cages are adorable in their bright colours, they’re often not suitable for hamsters. Despite their small size, hamsters need a lot of space.

5. Cat

Cats and dogs remain the most popular pet choice. However, cats are definitely more low maintenance pets for kids, because they don’t require as much walking, washing, or grooming.

Remember also that short-haired cats will require less grooming time than long-haired felines.

If you’ve set your heart on a kitten, it’s recommended that you go for two rather than one. This will provide a playmate, and reduce the risk of boredom and stress in your new pet.

6. Bird

Depending on the sort of bird you choose, you’ll soon learn that they can be simple to care for and don’t require a lot of human involvement. 

You can also opt for a bird that enjoys socialising and hanging out with the family.

It’s essential to choose a bird cage that’s spacious enough, with at least twice the length of your bird’s wingbeat between perches. Birds also love a range of meals including seeds and nuts, pellets, green vegetables, and fruit.

Would any of these low maintenance pets for kids suit your family home?

The first time I grew celery, I was surprised by how much flavor homegrown celery has. The added flavor, along with the convenience of harvesting a stalk or two as needed, means celery has earned a forever place in my cool-season garden. Learning how to grow celery is easier than you think. Learn how to grow celery with these 5 tips. See the end of the article for a bonus tip about how to grow celery in containers.

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Disclaimer: this post on growing celery contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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5 Tips for How to Grow Celery

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1. Choose your planting method for growing celery 

Plant celery from seed, transplants, or even the cut-off base of a grocery-store bunch. Here’s what I’ve learned about the different methods:

• Starting seeds indoors gives you control over the variety and generally yields the largest plants and most consistent results. 
• If you find transplants at your local nursery, it’s a great way to get a quick start.
• A cut-off base is a simple way to grow celery and is fun for kids to try in the garden. 

Try all three methods for growing celery and see which one works best for you.  

Here’s a video tutorial that explains how to grow celery from a cut-off base.   

Start celery seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before your last frost date. Transplant celery seedlings (or cut-off celery bases) when the soil temperature is at least 50°F (10°C).

Celery planting dates for the low desert of Arizona:

Transplant seedlings (or cut-off celery bases) outside 8-10 inches apart at the same level as the nursery pot. For square foot gardening, plant 4 celery per square.

If planting from seed in the garden (not recommended because of the need for a long growing season), plant seeds 1/4 inch deep and thin to 8-10 inches apart when seedlings are about 6 inches tall.

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2. Celery needs plenty of water & nutrients to grow

When growing celery, the soil must be consistently moist, not soggy. If celery dries out, it can be stringy, bitter, and bolt. Mulching the soil after planting helps keep celery from drying out. I use garden grids to water my garden with excellent results.

Celery grows best in compost-rich soil that is high in organic matter.

Fertilize celery with a fish-emulsion solution once a month throughout the growing season. To do this, add fish emulsion to a container and fill it with water, following the dilution instructions on the label.

Fish emulsion is an excellent source of organic nutrients and nitrogen that will not burn plants. It is easily absorbed and quickly taken up by the roots of the plants.

You can also amend the soil around celery with compost. Feeding your celery allows it to thrive.  

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3. Blanch celery before harvesting (if desired)

Blanching celery (even self-blanching types) helps eliminate the bitter taste and makes it sweeter and more tender. Unblanched stalks are darker green and tougher but contain more nutrients than the lighter-blanched varieties.

To blanch celery, about two weeks before harvesting, wrap or cover stalks with heavy paper, soil or mulch, juice or coffee cans, boards, or other items to keep out the light. Leaves should be exposed. 

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4. Harvest celery as needed throughout the season

• For the best flavor, water celery well the day before harvesting.
• Harvest single stalks as needed from the outside of the plant when it reaches the desired height.

Harvest celery until it begins to get hot. For me, in Arizona, that means late spring.

Celery doesn’t like hot temperatures, and as it heats up, it will become bitter. As summer nears, blanch the celery (if desired) and harvest the entire plant. To harvest the whole plant, cut it at soil level with a knife. 

If left in the ground, the celery may also bolt, meaning that the plant focuses on producing seeds. When it bolts, the central stalk of the celery becomes taller, flowers, and produces seeds.

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5. Preserve harvested celery in several ways 

Homegrown celery has so much flavor and is worth preserving if you can’t use all the garden produces. 

• Celery will keep in the fridge for several weeks if wrapped in foil or submerged in water in a sealed container. 
• To freeze celery: Chop, then blanch in boiling water for 2 minutes. Drain, and put blanched celery on a cookie sheet, and freeze. Once the celery is frozen, store it in freezer bags for up to a year. 
• Dehydrate or freeze-dry celery. Grind into celery powder before using; it does not hydrate well. 

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Bonus Tip: How to grow celery in containers

Celery is a good choice for containers.

• Choose a container for growing celery that holds at least 3 gallons of soil.
• Be diligent about watering container-grown celery. Celery that does not get enough water has hollow stalks and is stringy.
• Feed celery in containers with a half-strength application of liquid organic fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.

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Although rollie pollies (also called pill bugs or potato bugs) usually eat decaying and decomposing plant matter, occasionally, pill bug numbers are high, and they can wreak havoc on a garden (and your favorite strawberries!). This post shares my favorite natural pill bug control methods.

To my great frustration, countless seedlings have been destroyed by rollie pollies in my garden.  As an organic gardener, I’m unwilling to use pesticides to control pill bug numbers when they get off balance, so I’ve had to get creative. These are my time-tested and favorite ways to keep pill bugs from killing my seeds and seedlings. 

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Best Natural Pill Bug Control Methods For the Home Gardener

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1. Don’t give rollie pollies in the garden what they want

Pill bugs prefer damp and dark hiding places. Try not to make life comfortable for them. 

Remove wet leaves, fallen fruit, and dead plant matter from your garden. Try not to overwater your garden, as rollie pollies are also attracted to moisture. 

This step can be helpful, but if you still have problems, keep reading through the rest of the ways to keep pill bugs from destroying your garden.

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2. Set traps to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden

If an area of your garden has an overabundance of pill bugs, setting traps is an effective way to bring the numbers back in balance. Check traps daily, and remove and either discard or transplant the pill bugs to other areas of your yard. 

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EFFECTIVE WAYS TO TRAP PILL BUGS INCLUDE:

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Citrus or fruit traps as a natural pill bug control method

Cut the fruit in half and place it face down in the affected area. The pill bugs will be drawn to the fruit. Check traps in the morning, and dig down a bit to collect the rollie pollies. Fruit can often be used for 2-3 days in a row. 

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Beer or yeast traps as a natural pill bug control method

Set a shallow container (such as a pie plate) with the rim flush to the ground; fill with beer or 1-2 Tb yeast dissolved in water. The rollie pollies will be drawn to the beer or yeast, fall in, and drown.

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3. Make paper tube, newspaper, or duct tape collars how to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden

Sick of losing my seedlings to rollie pollie damage, I wrapped the stems in duct tape (sticky side out) and it worked! The seedlings are thriving with no pest damage to the stems. This technique is quick, simple, and effective. I’ve also used newspaper and toilet paper rolls as collars effectively. 

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Duct tape collar as a natural pill bug control method

Wrap a small piece of duct tape (sticky side out) around the stem of a seedling. Bury one-half of the taped stem in the ground, leaving some of the tape above ground as well. Remove the tape when the stem grows larger to keep the tape from suffocating the stem. 

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Newspaper collar as a natural pill bug control method

Tear a couple-inch strip of newspaper and carefully wrap it around the seedling stem, burying some if possible. As the seedling grows, the paper will fall off — no need to remove it. 

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Toilet paper tube collar as a natural pill bug control method

Slide the tube over the seedling and into the soil. It’s best to have the collar buried an inch or two below the soil. 

I’ve had mixed success with this type of collar. Sometimes it works. Other times the pill bugs get inside the collar. 

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4. Overplant to overwhelm the rollie pollies in the garden

Certain crops are best started in the garden from seed, which makes using collar methods ineffective – the seedlings are often eaten before there is anything above ground to protect. When this happens, I usually try overplanting. 

For example, instead of planting 1-2 seeds, I plant 3-4 seeds. In my experience, at least one of the seeds is overlooked or somehow protected by the other seedlings and not eaten by the rollie pollies — success! 

If more than one seedling survives, thin additional seedlings by cutting at the soil level rather than pulling. (Pulling may disturb the roots of remaining seedlings.)

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5. Use Diatomaceous earth (DE) or Nematodes to combat pill bugs in the home garden

Using diatomaceous earth (DE) to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be an effective means of controlling pill bug populations around your plants. DE is safe to handle (for animals and pets, too) but not to inhale – wear a mask while using.

DE, or diatomaceous earth, works to kill pill bugs by dehydrating them. Diatomaceous earth is made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms called diatoms. When pill bugs come into contact with DE, the sharp edges of the diatoms cut through the bug’s exoskeleton and absorb the moisture, causing the bug to dehydrate and die.

DE is commonly used in organic pest control as it is non-toxic to humans, pets, and the environment. It is important to follow the instructions on the product label when using DE to ensure effective and safe usage.

To use DE for pill bug control, apply a thin layer around their frequented areas, wear gloves and a mask, avoid windy conditions, and re-apply after rain. Apply in the late afternoon when the bugs are active and follow the product label for safe and effective results.

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Using nematodes to combat pill bug overpopulation:

Nematodes are microscopic organisms that are often used as a natural method of controlling pests in gardens.

Specifically, the Steinernema carpocapsae nematode is effective at targeting and killing pill bugs. These nematodes are applied to the soil in the garden and penetrate the skin of the pill bug. Once inside, they release a bacteria that quickly kills the pill bug.

Using nematodes for pest control is considered a safe and environmentally friendly option as they only attack specific pests and do not harm beneficial insects or soil quality. However, it’s important to follow the application instructions carefully to ensure the nematodes are introduced properly.

Additionally, nematodes may not be as effective if the soil is too dry or too hot, so it’s important to monitor the environmental conditions in your garden to determine the best time to use this method.

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Which natural pill bug control methods should you try in your home garden?

I’ve found the best way to bring pill bug numbers back into balance is by incorporating a combination of these methods. Effective methods for combating pill bug damage in a home garden include reducing favorable environmental conditions, creating physical barriers, using predators, manually removing the bugs, and using natural repellents.

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