Category: Home & Garden

Don’t use harmful chemicals in your garden! Learn how to prevent garden pests and diseases organically with these tips.

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Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links See my disclosure policy for more information. 

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5 Ways to Prevent Garden Pests Organically

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1. Focus on your soil

Most important! Healthy soil & healthy plants = fewer problems. Healthy plants are much less susceptible to pests and diseases. When a plant is struggling, it is more likely to succumb to damage from insects and other diseases. 

Healthy soil, rich in organic matter and microbes, is one way to prevent garden pests organically. The microbes break down the organic matter and make it available to plants as nutrients. Your plants will be healthier as a result.

Take a good look at your soil; it should be rich, loose, and hopefully full of life, with worms and lots of good stuff! If it is, great! Keep up what you are doing. If it isn’t, take steps to correct it. The soil will improve over time as you make it a priority. 

Consider getting your soil tested. This is the soil test kit I use. 

• Determine your soil structure: Sandy, clay, or loamy types have different characteristics. Ideally, your soil is loamy, a combination of clay and sandy types. This is the most desirable for growing plants.
• Feed your soil! Organic amendments are the most effective way to promote long-term soil health and fertility. Things such as blood meal, bone meal, worm castings, and Azomite help feed the microbes in the soil and promote healthy plants. 
• Learn how to compost or buy different types of compost and add some to the soil each time you plant.  

Over time, your soil structure will improve, and your plants will have what they need to thrive and resist pests and diseases organically.

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2. Implement companion planting practices

Take advantage of plants that help each other grow, repel harmful insects, and attract pollinators and other helpful insects. Companion planting is an important part of preventing pests and diseases in the garden organically.

Grow plants like basil, garlic, marigolds, and chives together to help prevent pests. Plant flowers like cosmos, sunflowers, and alyssum to attract beneficial insects that will keep the garden healthy.

Provide sources of food and water for pollinators like butterflies!

Here are a few of my favorite companion plants:

Onions – Onions are great friends to tomatoes, the cabbage family, and strawberries. I plant one or two bulbs in and among all those plants.

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Nasturtiums – Prolific and edible nasturtiums may help repel squash bugs, blackflies, whiteflies, and borers. Tomatoes, radishes, squash, and fruit trees benefit from nasturtiums planted nearby.

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Marigolds – Tomatoes, strawberries, apple trees, and beans love marigolds. Marigolds discourage nematodes. 

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3. Rotate where you plant crops each season

There are many reasons to rotate where you plant your crops, but preventing pests and diseases organically is a big one!   

If you plant tomatoes or broccoli in the same place year after year, you are giving the pests and diseases a head start! The disease or eggs may already be in the soil; when their favorite host plant is there again, it’s a party.

Instead, rotate where you plant in the garden. If the disease or pest in the soil finds carrots (which they don’t happen to like), they may die trying to find their way back to those tasty tomatoes.

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4. Spend time in your garden each day

Make daily walks through your garden a habit. I love walking around and noticing the new growth and blossoms. Use this time to be on the lookout for problems as well.

• Check the undersides of leaves for eggs or bugs.
• Notice if caterpillar frass (poop) is present; it’s one of the easiest ways to spot hornworm caterpillars feasting on your tomatoes. If you see the frass, the hornworm is probably nearby!
• Look for damage to leaves or stems of plants, and look around for the culprit.
• Try to be in your garden when your drip or water system is running; you will spot leaks or watering problems immediately. A battery died in my irrigation timer last year, and it took me a couple of days to realize what had happened. The plants were stressed by no water, and the bugs moved in. I had to pull out infested cucumber plants.

Spending time in your garden alerts you to small problems before they get larger. It’s much easier to pick off a few snails, squash bug eggs, or squash bugs than an army of them.

Here’s a tip: If check your garden in the morning, when it’s cooler, some bugs (like squash bugs) are more sluggish and easier to catch.

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5. Wait for beneficial insects to help you

The goal of organic gardening is to get a mini-ecosystem going on in your garden. A few aphids come, and then hopefully, here come the ladybugs.

Don’t be too quick to get rid of bugs. If the plant’s overall health won’t be affected by a couple of bugs, just keep an eye on it. Remember that when you spray, especially when you are using chemicals, you might kill the good guys as well as the bad guys. If you do decide to spray, start with water.

Always use a light hand, even with organic control methods.

Consider pulling heavily infested plants rather than treating them repeatedly. Often, plants become infested when they reach the end of their life cycle.

Learn to recognize beneficial and harmful insects in all their forms (eggs,  larvae, pupae, adult, etc.). Be an informed organic gardener and welcome beneficial insects into your garden.

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Lacewings

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Praying Mantis 

They can be an effective form of natural pest control in the garden. However, it is important to remember that they are not selective in what they eat and may also feed on beneficial insects like bees and ladybugs.

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Don’t let your herbs go to waste. Instead, freeze-dry herbs to preserve the herbs’ flavor and quality. This simple process ensures that your herbs stay fresh and tasty for months or even years. Learn how to freeze-dry herbs with these tips.

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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5 Tips for How to Freeze-Dry Herbs

Fresh herbs are a cook’s dream; they add so much flavor to dishes. I grow most herbs at some point during the year in my garden. However, my favorite cool-season herbs are a fond memory during the summer heat. It is the same with fresh garden basil; most winters are too cold for basil to grow well. So I love preserving the seasonal abundance of fresh herbs by freeze-drying. It is my favorite way to preserve fresh herbs.

Freeze-dried herbs retain more flavor and nutrients than dehydrated herbs. Freeze-drying also preserves more of the texture often lost when herbs are frozen. Preserving herbs through freeze-drying is simple; here are five tips to help you learn how to freeze-dry herbs. 

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1. Harvest herbs at their peak – Use fresh, flavorful herbs

The quality and flavor of the finished product come directly from what you preserve. Learn the best times to harvest the herbs and preserve them as soon as possible after harvest. 

• Herbs generally have the most flavor just before flowering.
• The best time to harvest is in the morning (highest moisture content and most volatile oils).
• Use a sharp, clean knife or scissors to harvest.
• Harvest from all over the plant if possible.
• Feed herbs with a liquid fertilizer after a large harvest to encourage more production.

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2. Prepare the herbs before freeze-drying

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Herb preparation tips for different types of herbs:

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How to prepare herbs with tough stalks (rosemary, oregano, thyme, etc.) for freeze-drying:

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How to prepare herbs with tender stalks (dill, cilantro, etc.) for freeze-drying:

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How to prepare herbs with broad flat leaves (basil, sage, mint, etc.) for freeze-drying:

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How to prepare thick herbs (turmeric, ginger, garlic, etc.) for freeze-drying:

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3. Process herbs in the freeze dryer 

Freeze-dry herbs as soon as possible after washing and trimming.

It is unnecessary to blanch or pre-freeze (most herbs freeze-dry rather quickly). Most herbs require a processing time of fewer than 12 hours from start to finish. 

Don’t freeze-dry different types of very strong-smelling herbs (such as garlic, basil, or cilantro) simultaneously. Other less pungent herbs that are similarly sized freeze-dry very well together and can be processed at the same time.

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4. Store freeze-dried herbs whole

I store my herbs in mason jars with airtight lids for use within a year. Packing them in a little is fine, but try not to crush them. Leaving the leaves whole preserves the most flavor. 

For larger amounts, store in a mylar bag with an oxygen absorber. Refill smaller jars with herbs and then reseal the mylar bag to preserve flavor. Herbs will last indefinitely, but the flavor is most intense if used within a year. 

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5. Use freeze-dried herbs as you would fresh herbs

Use the same amount or slightly more freeze-dried herbs as fresh herbs—usually less than if dehydrated or dried. 

It isn’t necessary to rehydrate herbs for most recipes. Instead, I crumble them in my hand and then toss them in salads, soup, dips, or any recipe straight from the jar. 

To rehydrate herbs, soak freeze-dried herbs in a bowl of water for 10 minutes, then drain the remaining water. 

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Don’t have a freeze dryer?

Purchasing a freeze dryer is certainly an investment. My freeze dryer runs almost nonstop, and I’m grateful to have one. I have the medium size freeze dryer with the premier pump from Harvest Right.

If you are purchasing a freeze dryer, please consider purchasing through my affiliate link. (It doesn’t cost you more, and I earn a small commission.) Your support helps me continue providing free content on my blog and YouTube channel.

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If this post about how to freeze-dry herbs was helpful, please share it:

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Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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I love using fresh dill from the garden as a flavorful herb in cooking. Snipping a few leaves and adding them to dips, sauces, fish, and roasted vegetables is incredibly convenient and delicious. Additionally, dill helps attract wonderful wildlife to your garden. Learn how to grow dill outside, inside, and in containers with these five tips. 

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Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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5 Tips for How to Grow Dill

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1. Plant dill at the right time

Plant after the last spring frost date. Seeds germinate in soil temperatures ranging from 50-70°F (10-21°C). Succession plant dill every three weeks for a continual harvest of the leaves.

Dill is a cool-season herb that grows best during fall and winter’s cooler temperatures in hot summer climates. In the low desert of Arizona, plant dill seeds and transplants beginning in October and plant through January. 

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2. Plant dill correctly

Try growing different varieties of dill, depending on your needs and preferences. 

• Bouquet dill has large blooms and seed heads. Excellent for pickling. 
• Dukat dill is darker green with large seed heads. Excellent for pickling. 
• Fernleaf dill is slow to bolt and suitable for growing indoors and in containers.
• Tetra dill is a bushy, late-flowering variety and somewhat more heat-tolerant.

Choose a location to plant dill with rich, loose soil and full sun. 

Dill has a long taproot; grow from seeds if possible. Dill grown from transplant often bolts more quickly than dill grown from seed. If you plant transplants, choose young transplants and carefully handle the roots.  

To plant dill outside, plant dill seeds 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch (2-6 mm) deep. Keep the soil moist until the seeds sprout. Thin seedlings to 12 inches (30 cm) apart when they are several inches tall. Mulch well after thinning seedlings. 

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3. Care for dill correctly

Keep soil evenly moist. A layer of mulch will help conserve moisture.

Aphids are a common pest that infects dill. Pick off the worst affected leaves or wait for the beneficial insects to come to help you take care of them. Learn more about how to prevent garden pests organically in this blog post.

How to grow dill in containers:

• Dill has a long taproot and does best in containers at least 18 inches deep.
• Dill does not require supplemental feeding.

How to grow dill indoors:

• Plant dill seeds directly in an unglazed terra-cotta pot at least 18 inches deep.
• Water dill only when the top inch or so of soil is dry. 
• Provide supplemental lighting for dill for 10-11 hours, with the lights about 6 inches from the plant. 
• Ideal indoor temperature for dill: 60°F-80°F. 
• Does not require supplemental feeding.

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4. Harvest dill fronds and seeds

Harvesting dill fronds:

Dill leaves are ready to harvest 40-60 days after planting from seed. Begin harvesting leaves once the plant has 4-5 leaves. Dill leaves are the most fragrant just before flowering.

Use dill leaves fresh or preserve them by drying, dehydrating, or freeze drying.

Harvesting dill seeds:

Dill seeds are ready to harvest after 85-115 days. Seeds have the best flavor if harvested just as they turn from green to brown. Harvest seeds by cutting the stalks at the base and storing them upside down in a paper sack. Seeds will fall into the bottom of the sack.

To avoid dill reseeding in your garden, harvest the seed heads before the seeds dry and begin falling off. Learn more about how to save seeds in this blog post.

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5. Use dill to attract beneficial insects to your garden

Dill is delicious, but I don’t grow it for the taste alone. I enjoy planting extra for the wildlife it attracts. Dill flower umbels (clusters of tiny yellow flowers) are nectar-rich and feed numerous beneficial pollinators.

Dill is an excellent companion plant and frequently a larval host plant for butterflies. Arizona’s state butterfly, the two-tailed swallowtail larvae, can often be seen enjoying dill plants. 

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Don’t let your herbs go to waste. Instead, freeze-dry herbs to preserve the herbs’ flavor and quality. This simple process ensures that your herbs stay fresh and tasty for months or even years. Learn how to freeze-dry herbs with these tips.

---

---

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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5 Tips for How to Freeze-Dry Herbs

Fresh herbs are a cook’s dream; they add so much flavor to dishes. I grow most herbs at some point during the year in my garden. However, my favorite cool-season herbs are a fond memory during the summer heat. It is the same with fresh garden basil; most winters are too cold for basil to grow well. So I love preserving the seasonal abundance of fresh herbs by freeze-drying. It is my favorite way to preserve fresh herbs.

Freeze-dried herbs retain more flavor and nutrients than dehydrated herbs. Freeze-drying also preserves more of the texture often lost when herbs are frozen. Preserving herbs through freeze-drying is simple; here are five tips to help you learn how to freeze-dry herbs. 

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1. Harvest herbs at their peak – Use fresh, flavorful herbs

The quality and flavor of the finished product come directly from what you preserve. Learn the best times to harvest the herbs and preserve them as soon as possible after harvest. 

• Herbs generally have the most flavor just before flowering.
• The best time to harvest is in the morning (highest moisture content and most volatile oils).
• Use a sharp, clean knife or scissors to harvest.
• Harvest from all over the plant if possible.
• Feed herbs with a liquid fertilizer after a large harvest to encourage more production.

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2. Prepare the herbs before freeze-drying

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Herb preparation tips for different types of herbs:

---

How to prepare herbs with tough stalks (rosemary, oregano, thyme, etc.) for freeze-drying:

---

How to prepare herbs with tender stalks (dill, cilantro, etc.) for freeze-drying:

---

How to prepare herbs with broad flat leaves (basil, sage, mint, etc.) for freeze-drying:

---

How to prepare thick herbs (turmeric, ginger, garlic, etc.) for freeze-drying:

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3. Process herbs in the freeze dryer 

Freeze-dry herbs as soon as possible after washing and trimming.

It is unnecessary to blanch or pre-freeze (most herbs freeze-dry rather quickly). Most herbs require a processing time of fewer than 12 hours from start to finish. 

Don’t freeze-dry different types of very strong-smelling herbs (such as garlic, basil, or cilantro) simultaneously. Other less pungent herbs that are similarly sized freeze-dry very well together and can be processed at the same time.

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4. Store freeze-dried herbs whole

I store my herbs in mason jars with airtight lids for use within a year. Packing them in a little is fine, but try not to crush them. Leaving the leaves whole preserves the most flavor. 

For larger amounts, store in a mylar bag with an oxygen absorber. Refill smaller jars with herbs and then reseal the mylar bag to preserve flavor. Herbs will last indefinitely, but the flavor is most intense if used within a year. 

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5. Use freeze-dried herbs as you would fresh herbs

Use the same amount or slightly more freeze-dried herbs as fresh herbs—usually less than if dehydrated or dried. 

It isn’t necessary to rehydrate herbs for most recipes. Instead, I crumble them in my hand and then toss them in salads, soup, dips, or any recipe straight from the jar. 

To rehydrate herbs, soak freeze-dried herbs in a bowl of water for 10 minutes, then drain the remaining water. 

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Don’t have a freeze dryer?

Purchasing a freeze dryer is certainly an investment. My freeze dryer runs almost nonstop, and I’m grateful to have one. I have the medium size freeze dryer with the premier pump from Harvest Right.

If you are purchasing a freeze dryer, please consider purchasing through my affiliate link. (It doesn’t cost you more, and I earn a small commission.) Your support helps me continue providing free content on my blog and YouTube channel.

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If this post about how to freeze-dry herbs was helpful, please share it:

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Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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In other words, it’s normal for a ficus to lose some foliage at certain times. It’s the plant’s way of adapting to changing conditions.

Think of it from the plant’s point of view: you suddenly have less light than you’re used to. How do you adapt? By dropping some of the excess leaves and growing new leaves that are better adapted to the lower light.

It’s a survival strategy that can be viewed in a positive rather than negative light. Ficus species are adaptable survivors, and they’re making sure they are able to stick around. If they didn’t adapt, a changing environment could spell disaster.

Still, that doesn’t mean we want to see our ficus shedding like a husky dog in the spring. And, of course, complete defoliation is another matter entirely.

Complete defoliation could potentially kill the plant, but it’s also a sign that there’s something seriously wrong. A little leaf drop is no big deal. A lot of leaf drop is a big deal.

But you have to put up with a sparse, sad-looking plant. There are steps you can take to prevent, lessen, or stop the foliage from dropping. We’ll go over your options in this guide.

Here’s what’s on the docket:

In my experience, weeping figs are the types that most readily drop their leaves, followed by fiddle-leaf figs (F. lyrata) and rubber trees (F. elastica), which hold onto their foliage a little better.

Honestly, if your weeping fig isn’t dropping leaves, you might want to check and make sure it isn’t actually made from silk or plastic.

Before we talk about what you can do to address it, let’s look at why ficus plants do what they do.

What Causes Ficus Leaf Drop?

As we mentioned above, a change in environmental conditions is typically the cause of defoliation.

Most often, this is a sudden change in light exposure or temperature. Altered water levels, too much or too little food, diseases, or pests can also cause dropping foliage.

The shifting seasons, as the light gradually reduces in the fall, aren’t generally dramatic enough to cause shedding. We’re talking about a sudden change in environmental conditions.

Similarly, the gradual warming that happens as spring arrives won’t cause it, but if you allow your home to be warm for a few weeks in early summer and then suddenly turn on the air conditioning full blast, that might be enough to trigger falling foliage.

Over- or underwatering will, over time, cause shedding. As will any pest or disease that targets Ficus species, even if the symptoms don’t typically include dropping foliage in other types of plants.

For instance, spider mites might not cause leaf drop in a Swiss cheese plant, at least not immediately, but a Benjamin fig will toss its foliage as soon as those mites start chowing down.

Remember, that’s how these plants deal with stressors.

If you aren’t familiar with the various pests and diseases that plague these species, please visit our guides to weeping figs, rubber trees, and fiddle-leaf figs for the specifics.

These guides will help you figure out the perfect amount of water and food to give your Ficus species, as well.

In the case of outdoor plants, unless you’ve recently removed a nearby tree or made some other change that dramatically affects the growing environment, defoliation is typically caused by water issues, pests, or disease.

Preventing Leaf Drop

Making the effort to prevent leaf drop from happening is worth the effort if you don’t want to wait for your plant to regrow its foliage and look gorgeous again.

If the very thought of your plant losing leaves makes your stomach drop, then your new goal in life is to keep things as consistent as possible, environment-wise.

Try to keep the temperature and light exposure as consistent as possible and provide the plant with the recommended water and humidity for the particular species you are growing.

If you do have to make any changes, make them as gradual as possible.

For example, you may decide to take your fiddle-leaf fig from a spot in the corner of your living room that’s a bit too dark and move it to an east-facing window.

Overall, that’s a positive move for your plant because it will have the light exposure that’s more appropriate for the species.

But the change is probably going to promote dropping foliage if you do it suddenly. Instead, gradually shift the plant in the direction you want to go over the course of a week. Better yet, make it two or three weeks in the case of big moves.

If you’re moving the plant 20 feet in a week, that means you’d need to move it about three feet a day. By the time you place it in its new location, the plant will have had time to adapt to the changing environment.

This can be applied to any move you wish to make with your plants.

Moving your rubber tree outside for the summer? Take it nice and slow. Do you want your curtain fig (F. microcarpa) in a different room? Slow and steady wins the race.

I know, it might be a bit strange to have your favorite rubber tree sitting in the middle of your living room as it slowly transitions to its new location. Just tell your friends that your house is haunted and the plants move on their own.

Of course, there are times when you can’t make the transition slowly, such as when you are moving hundreds of miles away. In those cases, you’ll have to accept a little leaf drop.

Treating Leaf Drop

Stopping leaf drop requires you to address the cause, provided it wasn’t a sudden change of environment.

If you look your ficus over and spot pests like aphids or scale, you’ll have to address the infestation. Once you get rid of those pests, your ficus might continue to shed for a little while longer, but eventually it will send out new, healthy growth.

The same goes for diseases like botrytis blight or root rot. If you cure the disease, you’ll cure the shedding.

If you aren’t providing enough light for your ficus, you’ll need to fix that – gradually. It can be a challenge to tell if the light is right by just looking at it. A light meter can really help.

If you are over- or underwatering, the plant will likely continue to defoliate until you sort that out.

Most ficus plants like soil that’s moist but not oversaturated. They will generally tolerate some dryness but not an excessive amount.

If the cause was a change in environment, you don’t need to do anything. Just support your plant with the appropriate amount of water and food, and it will recover all on its own.

Fionuala Campion says in her article, Dazzling Deer-Resistant Perennials, “Though very graceful and delightful to behold in their native habitat, deer are a voracious force to reckon with in many Northern California gardens, particularly in summer and fall.” But these majestic creatures are not just an issue for gardeners on the west coast. There are populations of deer in all 50 states, and all are munching on the many different plants we’re growing across the country.

There are a vast array of deterrents that can offer various levels of success, but sometimes the best method to deter pests is growing plants they won’t bother with. While results can always vary, the expert-selected plants below are the closest you’ll get to deer-proof.

 

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Outdoors, pest populations are kept in check by rain and diseases and by birds, beneficial insects, and other predators; indoors, however, plant pests can proliferate very quickly with nothing to stop them. The most common pests that may infest your houseplants are spider mites, mealy bugs, scale, aphids, and fungus gnats. This can lead to unsightly damage and potentially the death of your plant. There is also the risk that an infestation can jump from one plant to another. For these reasons, pest control is important. First, though, you need to learn how to identify your pest.

Spider mites are hard to spot but create noticeable webs and stippling

Identification:

Spider mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. Their common name comes from the silky webbing they produce when populations are high. These tiny creatures are about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. They thrive in dry indoor environments, and their populations can grow exponentially in a few weeks.

Damage:

The mites typically feed on the underside of leaves, where the removal of cell contents also removes the green pigment of the leaf. This causes stippling, which results in a dusty appearance. Heavy infestations can cause leaves to yellow and fall off and can also lead to the death of a plant.

Control:

Check for mites by tapping leaves over a white piece of paper and looking for tiny dots crawling around. Insecticidal soap is one of the best products to use against this pest. It’s a contact insecticide with no residual activity after it dries. Make at least three appli­cations at five-day intervals to control newly emerging mites. Be sure to spray the upper and lower leaf surfaces.

Fungus gnats cause damage under the soil

Identification:

Fungus gnats are a species of fly about ¼ inch long and are usually black. The use of yellow sticky traps can help you confirm whether or not you have a fungus gnat problem.

Damage:

Adults do no damage but are often a nuisance. ­Females lay eggs in the soil, and the larvae, called maggots, feed on plant roots, causing stunted growth and potential yellowing or wilting of leaves. This may cause unsightly damage but is not likely to kill a plant.

Control:

Overwatering and wet soil are usually the cause of fungus gnat problems. Always empty saucers under plant containers after watering, and allow time for the soil to drain. Larvae can be controlled with Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israelensis (Bti), a bacterium that is sold in stores for the ­control of mosquito larvae in standing water. Dissolve the bits in ­water and drench the soil. While yellow sticky traps will capture adults, they are better for monitoring your infestation and will not be totally effective in eliminating them.

Mealy bugs have a distinctive appearance

Identification:

Mealy bugs are small insects up to 1 ⁄ 8 inch long with bodies covered in white, waxy filaments. They are most often found feeding on stems but can also be found on the underside of leaves. They exude a substance called honeydew that leaves a shiny, sticky residue. Eggs hatch into young “crawlers,” which are pale yellow and lack the waxy filaments until they settle down at a feeding site.

Damage:

These pests suck on plant sap and stunt plant growth. This can cause yellowing or dieback of leaves. High populations can eventually kill a plant.

Control:

Insecticidal soap is effective against crawlers but is not so effective against adults. Adults can be killed with rubbing alcohol applied with a cotton swab. Neem oil is also effective, but always test it on one leaf first and wait a day to see if it burns the leaf before applying it to the whole plant.

There are two types of scale to look out for

Identification:

Scale are round to oval with no visible eyes, antennae, or legs. There are two main groups of scale. Armored scale are covered by a hard shell and are less than 1 ⁄ 8 inch long. Soft scale are usually larger (about 1 ⁄ 4 inch long) and covered with a thick wax. Adults are sedentary once they find a feeding site. Eggs are laid under the protective cover of the female; after hatching, the young crawlers move about on the plant to find a feeding site before producing the protective covering that shields scale insects from most contact sprays.

Damage:

Scale cause stunting of plant growth and can lead to yellowing, wilting, or premature dropping of leaves. They can be deadly if their populations are allowed to grow.

Control:

Small infestations of scale insects can be removed by gently scraping them off the plant when practical. Insecticidal soap is effective against crawlers. Neem oil can smother adults.

Aphid infestations can quickly get out of control

Identification:

Aphids are about 1 ⁄ 8 inch long. They are soft-bodied insects that are normally wingless and can be just about any color depending on their species and the plant they are feeding on. Like mealy bugs, they secrete honeydew. Aphids reproduce at a very rapid rate, so populations can grow quickly if they are not controlled.

Damage:

These insects suck plant sap and can cause stunted, yellowed, or distorted leaves, but they will rarely kill a plant.

Control:

Insecticidal soap is very effective against aphids and is the best bet for indoor infestations.

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Be proactive with prevention

Being smart with houseplant care can help to prevent infestations in the first place. Follow these tips to reduce the likelihood of pests becoming a problem.

• Inspect your plants on a regular basis.
• When bringing plants indoors that were outside for the summer, isolate them from each other and observe them for several weeks.
• Do the same thing to newly purchased plants before moving them close to other plants.
• Wipe down your plants with a soft cloth and mild soapy water every month or when bringing plants back inside.
• Provide your plant with the right lighting and watering conditions, as stressed plants can be more susceptible to pest infestations.

Practice safety with pest-killing products

Whenever you choose to use a pesticide—whether it’s organic or synthetic—follow these tips to make sure you use it safely.

• Take your plants outside before spraying them with any product.
• If it’s too cold outside, spray them in the shower.
• Read the label to learn about ­proper application rates and any safety precautions.
• If you want to avoid the use of these products, consider pruning out infested plant parts when possible or replacing an affected plant.

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Paul Thompson is a Distinguished Urban Horticulture Agent in York County, South Carolina, with the Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service, where he has worked since 1994.

Fionuala Campion says in her article, Dazzling Deer-Resistant Perennials, “Though very graceful and delightful to behold in their native habitat, deer are a voracious force to reckon with in many Northern California gardens, particularly in summer and fall.” But these majestic creatures are not just an issue for gardeners on the west coast. There are populations of deer in all 50 states, and all are munching on the many different plants we’re growing across the country.

There are a vast array of deterrents that can offer various levels of success, but sometimes the best method to deter pests is growing plants they won’t bother with. While results can always vary, these four expert-selected plants for the Northeast are the closest you’ll get to deer-proof.

 

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1. Yellow Corydalis

Name: Corydalis lutea

Zones: 4–8

Size: 8 to 12 inches tall and wide

Conditions: Partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Europe

Yellow corydalis is a standout in the front half of the season. Beautifully and delicately dissected compound leaves create soft, airy mounds that are pale or grayish green. In spring, tubular yellow blooms float over the canopy of fine leaflets. While yellow corydalis is much more heat resistant than its eye-popping, blue-flowered cousins, its stems are similarly brittle and easily broken. In very hot summers or during drought it may die back, although it can flush new growth when cooler, moister conditions return. But with consistently moist soil and/ or cooler temperatures, it may not go dormant until fall. This is a short-lived perennial, but it can easily self-sow to give the appearance of longevity. You will like this one much more than marauding deer, who will pass it by without a second thought.

 

2. ‘All Gold’ Japanese Forest Grass

Name: Hakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 8 to 12 inches tall and 16 to 24 inches wide

Conditions: Partial shade; moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Central Japan

An essential element for the shady garden, Japanese forest grass is a standout for contrast and presence. This cultivar has become my new favorite. While the name ‘All Gold’ is honest and accurate, it may be better described as “Knock-your-socks-off-clean-into-thewasher gold.” A bit lower growing than some other forms of Hakonechloa, this woodland perennial really glows in shade. With ample moisture, though, I have grown this cultivar in almost full sun here in Maine, and the color is unreal. While ‘All Gold’ tends to be more chartreuse in heavier shade, a few hours of cool morning sun will bring out brighter gold colors in warmer climates. This is a slow grower and will not rapidly overtake adjacent plantings. It works well on slopes where it can gracefully cascade. In fall you’ll find that deer have left you to clean up, as they do not nibble this treasure.

 

3. ‘Spanish Peaks’ Mullein Foxglove

Name: Digitalis thapsi ‘Spanish Peaks’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 1 to 2 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to medium soil

Native range: Portugal; Spain

This is one of my favorite selections of the foxglove genus. It flashes vibrant, raspberry-pink, tubular flowers that nod gracefully from a central, upright inflorescence. The overall form and habit of ‘Spanish Peaks’ are comparable to those of the more well-known and imposing D. purpurea hybrids that often steal the show, but with some noteworthy, garden-valuable distinctions. First, this species is more reliably perennial. Second, it does not reseed as heavily as other foxgloves I have grown. Third, it has wonderful wooly foliage. Narrow, lanceolate leaves emerge to form a typical foxglove rosette but are cloaked in soft, silvery, glandular hairs. Be advised that the leaves of this plant are poisonous, which allows it to avoid deer browsing.

 

4. ‘Sea Salt’ Artemisia

Name: Artemisia ludoviciana ‘Sea Salt’

Zones: 5–9

Size: 6 to 10 inches tall and 12 to 18 inches wide

Conditions: Full sun; lean, well-drained soil

Native range: United States; Canada; Mexico

No plant is in flower all the time, which is why showy or distinctive foliage is essential—especially when deer don’t like it! Originally introduced to me as a bedding or container plant, this silver artemisia cultivar is really great in the perennial landscape too. Soft, silverygray foliage sprawls into a low, fuzzy mound, which works its way around other plants to fill sunny spaces. Developed from a species native to dry sites in western North America, this cultivar demonstrates excellent drought tolerance once established. It’s at its best in hot, sunny spots, often on the dry side. Once established, it can perform admirably in almost pure sand. I have used this plant on the edges of beds not only due to its front-of-the-border habit but because my beds tend to trail off in richness (organic matter) at the edges, where the soil is not as developed.

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Daniel Robarts is the greenhouse coordinator and propagator for Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens in Boothbay, Maine.

Winning Tip: From the kitchen to the garden

Several times a year a visitor to our garden is shocked to find a rogue steak knife pierced downward in one of the beds, as if it were an escapee from our kitchen knife block. I’m always quick to tell them that it’s indeed where I meant to place it, and that I haven’t found any tool as great as a serrated knife when it comes to removing grass or root systems. It’s perfect for edging small areas or pulling up entire sheets of grass; all I have to do is start on one side and pull up as I carefully saw back and forth. It can be a cheap purchase from a thrift store—or in my case, the way I finally convinced my husband that we needed a new set of kitchen knives.

—Erin Lang Norris, Mazomanie, Wisconsin

Easy weed disposal

I am always looking for ways to work smart in the garden. Of all the various gardening tasks there are to do, one is ever present—weeding. Whether I’m weeding in the morning with a cup of coffee or in the evening with a glass of wine, it seems I’m always able to gather a sizable pile of weeds in no time at all. I don’t want to make countless trips throughout the day to dispose of the weeds, so I tuck empty black or brown plastic plant containers throughout the garden. (I find that black or brown containers without logos are easiest to conceal among the vegetation.) Now when I accumulate a handful of weeds, I simply drop them into the nearest container and move on to my next task. It takes a surprisingly long time to fill these empty containers, resulting in far fewer trips to the trash can or compost pile.

—Katherine Coker, McDonough, Georgia

Daylily scapes as stakes

I was gifted ‘Stella d’Oro’ daylilies by my mother. They are now planted in my front yard next to my driveway. After the seedpods are ripe, I let the scapes dry out and gently pull them to remove them. I started collecting them in the belief that surely I could find a use for them before dumping them in the compost pile. When I started potting up some of my plants into vintage pottery, I found that the scapes make nice stakes for the plants until they get established. The scapes also add a whimsical natural design element to the potted plants.

—Ruth Welch, Castelton, Virginia

Protect potato plants

I grow potatoes in big pots because I just don’t have room in my garden beds with all my flowers. I have noticed that when there is a really heavy, beating thunderstorm, the potato plants get flattened and break. I use half hoops and peony hoops to prop them up. I think the half hoops are easier to work with, and it makes all the difference in the world in the plants. Supporting the plants like this is helpful whether you put your potatoes in the ground or in pots.

—Carla Z. Mudry, Malvern, Pennsylvania

Resurrect your rhodies

Winter kill got your rhododendrons? We had a very dry, nonsnowy winter last year in the Northeast, following a severe drought the summer before—a double whammy, especially for evergreens. If your rhododendrons have a significant amount of dead wood, my advice is to hard prune the bushes in half, apply a slow-release fertilizer for acid-loving shrubs, sprinkle a tablespoon or two of epsom salts around the base, and mulch. If you water carefully this year, you will be rewarded with dense new growth that looks healthier than ever. It usually takes one or two seasons for these shrubs to fill out completely and return to full blooming power. I have found it very satisfying to renovate and restore rhododendrons and azaleas.

—Lisa Matey Bergeron, Melrose, Massachusetts

Cure potatoes in nursery trays

Here’s a handy way to repurpose the nursery trays that stack up from season to season: drying your potatoes ­before storage. As the photo shows, the individual sections are ideal for keeping the potatoes from touching one another during the curing process. This method also works well for drying onions.

—Julie Horney, Huntertown, Indiana

Balance support from broken tools

It’s always disappointing when a long-handled garden tool breaks, but if it can’t be ­repaired, I love to sink the handles into ­select parts of my garden. Apart from providing a rustic aesthetic, these handles are invalu­able supports when I’m bending down to do some weeding in a heavily ­planted area where I don’t want to lose my balance.

—Alex Szumilas, Ottawa, Ontario

Lavender to the rescue

When I saw suspicious small moths fluttering near my closet, I used a needle to put holes in plastic sandwich bags, filled the bags with dried lavender flowers, zipped the bags, and hung them with clothespins from my cotton and wool garments. The moths stopped coming, and my closet smells great. Sage leaves work too, but I like the smell of lavender better.

—Mary Crum, Fort Myers, Florida

Keep that herbicide where it belongs

After I discovered poison ivy growing up a tree in my yard, I couldn’t find any professionals to remove it. I knew that I couldn’t pull it down on my own, but I didn’t want it to spread. I was concerned about kids in the neighborhood touching the poison ivy, but I also didn’t want them being exposed to the Roundup product for poison ivy I figured I would have to use to get rid of it.

I went to a local florist where I used to work and got two extra-large water tubes for thick orchid stems. These look like fat, opaque, plastic test tubes, but they have a rubber cap on the top with a slit for the stem. I rolled up some paper towels and put them inside each tube so that they would wrap ­snugly around a poison ivy stem. Then I filled the tubes with Roundup and put the caps on. Avoiding the slits in the rubbery tops, I taped the edges of the caps to the tubes for a sure seal.

I cut the two poison ivy vines at about 6 inches from the ground, leaving the vine attached to the tree. I slid a Roundup-filled tube onto each of the stems and left the tubes there all winter. This put the Roundup only where needed—but exactly and continually where needed—and it didn’t wash off in the weather. Sure enough, no poison ivy returned in the spring.

—Gwen Drury, Stoughton, Wisconsin

Photos, except where noted: courtesy of the contributors.

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Fionuala Campion says in her article, Dazzling Deer-Resistant Perennials, “Though very graceful and delightful to behold in their native habitat, deer are a voracious force to reckon with in many Northern California gardens, particularly in summer and fall.” But these majestic creatures are not just an issue for gardeners on the west coast. There are populations of deer in all 50 states, and all are munching on the many different plants we’re growing across the country.

There are a vast array of deterrents that can offer various levels of success, but sometimes the best method to deter pests is growing plants they won’t bother with. While results can always vary, these four expert-selected plants for the Mid-Atlantic are the closest you’ll get to deer-proof.

 

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1. Calico Penstemon

Name: Penstemon calycosus

Zones: 5–8

Size: 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist to dry soil

Native range: Eastern United States

Surprise your garden guests with this lesser-known penstemon. With beautiful summer-blooming flowers standing atop sturdy stems, calico penstemon has reliable, vigorous growth. While it thrives in moist, fertile soil, it also does well in the lean, dry soil preferred by other penstemons. What makes this species unique are the rose-pink hues on the exterior of the purple flowers and the whitish interiors. This three-toned coloration adds depth to the display. Calico penstemon holds up well in the competition of a mixed border and reliably flowers in both partial shade and full sun. Pair it with pink alliums (Allium spp. and cvs., Zones 4–10) in late spring for a handsome start to summer.

 

2. ‘Gauguin’ Tree Peony

Name: Paeonia ‘Gauguin’

Zones: 4–9

Size: 4 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; rich, well-drained soil

Native range: Hybrid

Choosing a favorite tree peony is like choosing a favorite star in the sky. The flowers of ‘Gauguin’ are the ones I look forward to seeing the most every spring. The blooms’ color is a rich antique-looking pink with hints of yellow fading from dark maroon centers. This creates a depth that is difficult to capture in a photo, but it stops you in your tracks in person. Tree peonies are stout shrubs held up by strong stems that radiate upward. They require little maintenance, but deadheading after flowering is beneficial. Selectively prune out older branches over time to make way for younger, more vigorous flowering branches. While this plant can be grown in full sun or partial shade, dappled afternoon shade helps the flowers last longer. On the other hand, more sun usually results in a greater number of flowers.

 

3. ‘Caradonna’ Salvia

Name: Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’

Zones: 4–8

Size: 1 to 2 feet tall and wide

Conditions: Full sun; dry to average, well-drained soil

Native range: Central and western Asia; Europe

I first saw this plant on a rock ledge at the botanic garden where I work and was struck by how it stood out among a sea of colors and textures. ‘Caradonna’ salvia is one of the best salvias to grow for long-lasting blooms and an architectural presence. Its royal purple spires of flowers are stiffly erect and backed by deep indigo bracts that increase their impact. Even the stems have color, creating a very saturated overall appearance. This perennial is short and round in stature, and its leaves give it a softer appearance. Tolerant of dry, low-nutrient soil, ‘Caradonna’ is hardy and long-lived, and it requires little in terms of care. This is a great choice for a dynamic combination or on its own as a specimen plant.

 

4. White Bigroot Geranium

Name: Geranium macrorrhizum ‘Album’

Zones: 4–8

Size: 1 to 1½ feet tall and 1½ to 2 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; medium to dry, well-drained soil

Native range: Southern Europe; Turkey

This hardy ground cover grows in a variety of sun and soil conditions and is prized for its dry-shade tolerance. In my experience, this white-flowered cultivar adds greater vibrancy to a shade garden than the fuchsia-colored flowers of the straight species. When it blooms from late spring through midsummer, its stamens remain pink, contrasting with the white petals. They are complemented by a deep pink calyx. This coloration grows darker as seeds develop, extending the ornamental interest past flowering. The foliage of this plant is soft to the touch like peach fuzz and has a pleasant aroma when rubbed or on warm days. Plant this geranium along a walkway to enjoy the fragrance, or on the edge of a garden bed as a first line of defense for less deer-resistant plants.

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David Mattern is a horticulturist at Chanticleer, a public garden in Wayne, Pennsylvania.

Fionuala Campion says in her article, Dazzling Deer-Resistant Perennials, “Though very graceful and delightful to behold in their native habitat, deer are a voracious force to reckon with in many Northern California gardens, particularly in summer and fall.” But these majestic creatures are not just an issue for gardeners on the west coast. There are populations of deer in all 50 states, and all are munching on the many different plants we’re growing across the country.

There are a vast array of deterrents that can offer various levels of success, but sometimes the best method to deter pests is growing plants they won’t bother with. While results can always vary, these four expert-selected plants for the South are the closest you’ll get to deer-proof.

 

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1. Whale’s Tongue Agave

Name: Agave ovatifolia

Zones: 7b–11

Size: 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun; average to dry, well-drained soil

Native range: Northeastern Mexico

This hardy agave is one of my favorites of all time. It thrives in sandy clay soil in a very hot microclimate on the south side of my house. In our region it rarely sustains any winter damage. It forms a structurally stunning rosette of thick, silvery, slightly cupped leaves tipped with sharp points. Try using it mixed into a full-sun perennial border, or as the star of a drought-tolerant hellstrip design. It looks especially stunning near a bright-colored companion like ‘Fernspray Gold’ Hinoki cypress, another of my deer-resistant favorites. To keep it healthy, do not overwater, and do not cut off the terminal spines. The spines are part of the leaves, and removing them could introduce an avenue for pathogens to infect the plant.

 

2. ‘Chapel Hill Yellow’ Lantana

Name: Lantana ‘Chapel Hill Yellow’

Zones: 7–11

Size: 18 to 24 inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide

Conditions: Full sun; moist to average, well-drained soil

Native range: Hybrid

On the spectrum of cold-tolerant-lantana hues, ‘Chapel Hill Yellow’ is less the color of road paint and more that of a ray of sunshine. Herbivores avoid it, perhaps because of the sandpaper-like texture of its foliage, which makes my arms itch for hours when it scratches against them. Yet I keep going back to this mounding, butterfly- and bee-attracting perennial for its continuous blooms, which add cheer to the front of the border from early summer through fall. If lantana lace bugs become a problem, spraying with neem or horticultural oil early in the infestation and before the temperatures climb above 90°F should help. ‘Chapel Hill Yellow’ requires little additional care aside from some regular watering to get it established and some pruning in spring once it starts producing new leaves.

 

3. ‘Fernspray Gold’ Hinoki Cypress

Name: Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Fernspray Gold’

Zones: 4–8

Size: 5 to 6 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Japan

This hardy conifer—one of my favorites—deserves a spot in any garden that is ravaged by cottontail rabbits and white-tailed deer. They tend to avoid it, as there are many more palatable options for them to munch on in most gardens. Its golden-yellow, flat, fernlike branches grow somewhat horizontally, but the plant has an overall pyramidal habit. Whether you choose to prune it to keep it smaller or allow it to reach full size, it will add a vibrant evergreen pop to any design. When it is grown in the deeper South, ‘Fernspray Gold’ appreciates a spot in partial shade, and you should water yours more often than I do mine.

 

4. Calamint

Name: Calamintha nepeta subsp. nepeta

Zones: 5–7

Size: 12 to 18 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide

Conditions: Full sun; average to moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Europe; the Mediterranean region

By far the best plant you’re not growing is calamint. My love affair with this plant started at the nursery and garden where I worked as a teenager. I walked by this puffball of small white flowers daily throughout that summer, and after having lost touch for years, we finally reunited after a plant sale. Now I walk by it daily at home, where it blooms in full sun against the burgundy foliage of ‘African Night’ pineapple lily (Eucomis ‘African Night’, Zones 6–9). Calamint thrives in evenly moist soil and will reflower when lightly deadheaded. Though most plants have showy white flowers, some bloom purple.

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Amanda Bennett is the vice president of horticulture and collections at the Atlanta Botanical Garden.

Photos: millettephotomedia.com

Winter in North America is typically an uneventful time of year for plants, when growing slows or stops and when most plants go dormant. Because of that, average winter weather has very little negative impact on a landscape’s health. Extreme winter weather anomalies, however, can do some serious damage. Heavier than average precipitation, significant and sudden drops in temperature, longer than normal durations of freezing temperatures and winds—these occurrences can injure, if not gravely harm, our valued plants.

Expect the unexpected

If there is one thing we can count on about extreme winter weather, it is that such weather is unpredictable but certain. It will happen at some point—we just don’t know when. The South and southeastern United States was reminded of this during the 2022 holiday season when a doozy of a storm blew in that will not soon be forgotten. The wind and cold temperatures packed a punch for our power grids and landscapes over the Christmas weekend. The weather event presented itself as a 40°F to 50°F drop in much of the region from the evening of December 22 through the following morning. Temperatures plummeted to as low as –5°F. In many places, this rapid drop was accompanied by blustery winds and sustained temperatures below 15°F for at least 32 hours. Additionally, temperatures in many areas didn’t rise above 32°F for more than 80 hours.

This cocktail of winter weather resulted in freeze damage in the form of ice formation within plants, which irrevocably fractured cell walls. Additionally, the rapid temperature drop meant that plants were less able to implement internal defense measures to tolerate low-temperature stress. Wind also contributed to the injury by desiccating (think freeze-drying) evergreen plants.

Which plants are at the greatest risk?

Most plants damaged by extreme weather events are evergreen woody plants such as conifers and broadleaf evergreens. During the aforementioned storm, however, deciduous plants such as chaste trees (Vitex agnus-castus and cvs., Zones 6–9), figs (Ficus spp. and cvs., Zones 6–9), Japanese maples (Acer palmatum and cvs., Zones 5–8), edgeworthias (Edgeworthia chrysantha and cvs., Zones 7–10),  and some crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia spp. and cvs., Zones 6–9) also sustained major damage to their stems and trunks. Low temperatures can be especially harmful to woody plants considered barely or marginally hardy in a specific zone. Examples in Tennessee (Zones 6a–7b) include camellias (Camellia spp. and cvs., Zones 5–9), Chinese fringe flowers (Loropetalum chinense and cvs., Zones 7–11), and osmanthus (Osmanthus spp. and cvs., Zones 7–11). However, plants that are hardier in more northern regions also sustained major, if not catastrophic, damage from this storm; these included boxwoods (Buxus spp. and cvs., Zones 5–9), Japanese cedars (Cryptomeria spp. and cvs., Zones 5–9), and azaleas (Rhododendron spp. and cvs., Zones 4–8).

How to recognize and mitigate damage

“Burnt” (that is, browned) foliage of evergreen plants following winter weather exposure is easy to recognize, as is breakage from snow or ice loads. However, since winter damage occurs when plants are not actively growing, it may take several months before the extent of some damage is apparent. Close inspection during the 2023 growing season in Tennessee revealed that some plants had split, cracked, or peeling bark from their branches and/or trunks as a result of the 2022 winter storm. Because this type of damage permanently disrupts a plant’s ability to move water from the roots to the leaves, plants with this type of injury require the removal of the damaged branches or trunks.

Multistemmed plants such as figs, edgeworthias, chaste trees, crape myrtles, and Chinese fringe flowers were among those that suffered such damage, but they have the ability to completely regenerate from their root systems. For that reason, cutting them down to near the ground and letting them regrow is a simple response. Unfortunately, some primarily single-trunked plants, such as Japanese maples and some conifers, typically will not regenerate from their roots or base of their trunk after freeze damage occurs and will become a total loss. Likewise, plants such as Leyland cypress (× Hesperotropsis leylandii and cvs., Zones 6–10) that are not killed outright by a major winter event do not regenerate new branches from the trunk or roots and will likely never look attractive again. In this case, the plant should be removed. However, plants are amazingly resilient, and it is worth waiting and seeing before yanking a damaged one out. No matter the type of freeze damage, often it is best to wait to take action until early spring, when active growth is underway, so that you can determine what survived, cut back to new growth, and remove the dead or extensively damaged branches and trunks or lost-cause plants altogether.

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5 ways to prevent or minimize winter storm damage

Other than maybe growing your plants in a bio-dome, there is no foolproof way to prevent winter damage. However, there are some strategies you can use to help minimize injury to your precious plants.

1. Mulch

Make sure your plants are mulched in fall. The mulch serves as a blanket of insulation protecting the root zone from sudden changes in temperature. It also prevents fall-planted plants from heaving out of the soil during brief winter freeze-thaw cycles.

2. Water

Well-hydrated plants are better off any time of year, including during winter. This is particularly true of evergreen plants. When the ground freezes, plants cannot take up water; desiccation can then occur due to lack of water in the plants’ tissue. Watering well in fall before the ground freezes can be a lifesaver for your plants. With the exception of a handful of plants, most species do best in well-drained soil. Be sure your plants are in a well-drained site, as poor drainage can affect a plant’s winter hardiness.

3. Shelter

If you live in an area where the ground freezes for an extended period of time in winter, consider providing your broadleaf evergreens with some type of shield from the wind. Wrapping plants such as boxwoods in burlap or spraying them with an anti-desiccant such as Wilt Pruf or Wilt Stop (according to label directions, of course) can make a huge difference in minimizing winter damage.

4. Relocate

Container-grown plants can be moved into a garden shed, enclosed garage, or other sheltered location for protection from wind and cold temperatures. These spots are often several degrees warmer than outside. When placing plants in an attached enclosed garage, you can gain even a little more heat protection by putting the plants against the wall that also serves as an interior wall of the house on the other side.

5. Pause maintenance

Pruning stimulates new growth on plants. To prevent new growth from being exposed to damaging winter weather, avoid pruning five to six weeks before your first frost date. After plants go totally dormant, light pruning can be done if necessary but is best done in late winter or early spring to avoid open wounds all winter long. Likewise, plants should not be fertilized any later in the growing season than five to six weeks before the average first frost date. (For many areas, that would be by the end of August.) New plant growth needs time to mature and harden off before the cold weather hits.

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Contributing editor Jason Reeves is curator of the University of Tennessee Gardens in Jackson.

Is there a gardener anywhere who wouldn’t appreciate a beautiful space designed specifically to keep maintenance requirements realistic and manageable? I recently designed such a landscape for a client who wanted to replace her front lawn with a garden where her family of six could play, socialize, and gather with their large circle of relatives and friends. The goal was to strike a balance between beauty and ease of care, since she wanted to maintain the space without hiring outside help. The design we came up with is an excellent example of a hardworking landscape that looks great but does not require hours of labor or a crew of landscapers to keep it that way. As a bonus, the new garden requires about half the water that the turfgrass did.

Remove the lawn, but keep it family friendly

The key to creating a low-maintenance yet visually appealing garden lies in careful planning and thoughtful design choices. In this case it was important to create spaces that are easily navigated by people of all ages, with areas to gather as a group and a few hidden sanctuaries where individual family members can retreat to rejuvenate from their busy lives.

The head of the turnaround driveway was widened to accom­modate the width of a game court. Although it is shy of any regulation sizes, the space is large enough to play some competitive pickleball, and when the net is stashed away the area doubles as parking space. We also created a sizable terrace next to the home’s main entrance that is used for family meals, entertaining, and as a spectator area for regular evening racquet games.

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A Playful, Water-Wise Retreat

A bland landscape is transformed with layers of colorful, carefree plants and functional open spaces.

Conditions

Zone 8 in coastal Washington; full sun, well-drained soil amended generously with organic matter; western exposure

Challenges

Optimizing circulation areas; minimizing maintenance

Care

Garden beds are irrigated on an as-needed basis; new plants are watered a bit more during their first summer to help them get  established. Annual maintenance includes some spring cleanup and a cutback of perennials and grasses in fall.

1. Bluestone terrace enclosing the home’s main entrance
2. Parking area and pickleball court
3. Garden bed with footpaths and private seating area
4. Perimeter plantings and privacy hedge
5. Driveway

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Inside the loop of the turnaround driveway, the existing lawn was replaced with a resilient mix of plants that provide a stunning array of textures, colors, and forms in every season. Subtle grade changes and strategically placed boulders anchor the garden and give it a more natural look. A winding path invites exploration and leads to a secluded seating area that is perfect for relaxing away from the crowd.

 

For the garden beds, we focused on selecting plant varieties that are appropriate for the local climate and soil conditions. We included many native plants that are tough, resistant to pests and diseases, and well-suited to the available sunlight and water resources of the site. We mixed in plants that are native to regions with similar growing conditions to our area of the Pacific Northwest, which is often described as having a Mediterranean climate.

Winding through the garden are wide paths marked with large, level stones to walk on. A tight, low-growing ground cover fills in between and around the stones. Brass buttons (Leptinella potentillina, Zones 4–10) is perfect for this purpose, as it is drought resistant and creates a perfect carpet for walking on. The addition of a few large boulders within the garden ties it in with the natural Pacific Northwest landscape. Some of the boulders create berms that enhance the topography and make the garden seem larger and more interesting.

 

Screening and a coordinated color theme create the sense of a personal retreat

The client requested an area that was set apart from the house and the rest of the garden, a hidden getaway for contemplation and relaxation. Using plants that work as screens was a natural solution for making the space feel visually separate but not completely hidden from other areas of the garden.

There are many plants that can be used to create a subtle veil of privacy. My favorite evergreen for this purpose is giant feather grass (Stipa gigantea, Zones 7–10). Other plants that work well are tall verbena (Verbena bonariensis, Zones 7–9), meadow rue (Thalictrum rochebrunianum, Zones 3–8), and tall ornamental grasses of all kinds.

We also wanted this garden to serve as a colorful foil for the dark blue house, so we incorporated plants with blue and purple blooms and complementary yellow and orange hues. We chose plants that would stagger their bloom times to create a constant display of color from early spring through late fall.

Hard edges are softened with plants

Plants cascade over the edges of the parking area and driveway, softening the hard lines so that the eye will pause on plant compositions instead of the hardscape. Adding silver- and gray-colored plants along this driveway border helped to blend the edges nicely.

Drought-tolerant plants that work well for this purpose are lavender varieties such as ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munsted’ (Lavendula angustifolia cvs., Zones 4–10), and ‘Silver Knight’ heather (Calluna vulgaris ‘Silver Knight’, Zones 5–8). For a long season of continuous color—from June through October—a stunning choice is Rozanne geranium (Geranium ‘Gerwat’, Zones 5–8), with its reddish-purple flowers and mounding deep green foliage that is slightly marbled with chartreuse tips.

This garden is a testament to the idea that resilience and natural beauty can be achieved without the burdensome weight of constant maintenance. As it flourishes, it also contributes to the delicate balance of the surrounding ecosystem, using about half the water needed to maintain a lawn. Consuming fewer resources is always the way to go.

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A water-wise landscape doesn’t need to look like a desert

Monotonous, high-maintenance turfgrass was removed to make way for a bounty of trees, shrubs, and perennials. The plants look lush, but they require relatively little care and much less water than the lawn. Here are some of the other key details that make this design work.

1. A footpath invites exploration

In addition to providing easy access for seasonal tasks, the pathway allows visitors to immerse themselves in the garden.

2. Ground covers flow around the stepping stones

Bringing a ground-hugging layer right up to the edge of the footpath adds a touch of softness and naturalistic charm.

3. Boulders anchor the composition

The large rocks nestled in the landscape give this garden a sense  of place, tying it to the nearby mountains of the Pacific Northwest.

4. Translucent layers screen the seating area

Tall grasses and small trees gently enclose the center of the bed without completely blocking views to the rest of the garden.

5. A secluded destination beckons

A comfortable bench set off to the side of the pathway has become a favorite escape for the busy mother who maintains this garden.

6. Denser layers provide privacy

Strategically placed evergreen hedging is an attractive backdrop for the seating area, and it blocks views into the garden from the nearby street.

7. Color is an important element

A coordinated palette ties the space together, with an emphasis on warm, cheerful hues grounded by deep burgundies, sultry reds, and tawny tans.

8. Lighting keeps the garden accessible at night

Along the pathway, unobtrusive fixtures cast light downward to guide the way without creating excessive light pollution.

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Stacie Crooks is a Seattle-based garden designer and educator who has created gardens throughout the Pacific Northwest.

Photos, except where noted: doreenwynja.com

In An Alluring Design for a Lawnless Front-Yard Garden, Stacie Crooks writes, “The key to creating a low-maintenance yet visually appealing garden lies in careful planning and thoughtful design choices. In this case it was important to create spaces that are easily navigated by people of all ages, with areas to gather as a group and a few hidden sanctuaries where individual family members can retreat to rejuvenate from their busy lives.

The head of the turnaround driveway was widened to accom­modate the width of a game court. Although it is shy of any regulation sizes, the space is large enough to play some competitive pickleball, and when the net is stashed away the area doubles as parking space. We also created a sizable terrace next to the home’s main entrance that is used for family meals, entertaining, and as a spectator area for regular evening racquet games.”

See plant id’s for areas of this beautiful garden so that you can recreate this gorgeous design.

Plant ID’s (photo above)

1. Emerald ‘n Gold Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald n Gold’, Zones 5–8)
2. Parney Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster lacteus, Zones 7–9)
3. Dwarf strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo ‘Compacta’, Zones 7–9)
4. ‘Mary Helen’ heath (Erica x darleyensis ‘Mary Helen’, Zones 6–9)
5. ‘Springwood Pink’ winter heath (Erica carnea ‘Springwood Pink’, Zones 5–7)
6. Brass buttons (Leptinella potentillina, Zones 4–10)
7. ‘Aureola’ Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’, Zones 5–9)
8. Katsura (Cercidiphyllum japonicum, Zones 4–8)
9. ‘Bloodgood’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’, Zones 5–8)
10. ‘Wester Flisk’ hellebore (Helleborus foetidus ‘Wester Flisk’, Zones 5–9)
11. ‘Cappuccino’ hair sedge (Carex tenuiculmis ‘Cappuccino’, Zones 6–9)

 

1. ‘Hidcote’ English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Hidcote’, Zones 5–9)
2. ‘Sango-kaku’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Sango-kaku’, Zones 5–8)
3. ‘Evergold’ sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’, Zones 5–9)
4. Giant feather grass (Stipa gigantea, Zones 7–10)
5. ‘Mary Helen’ heath (Erica x darleyensis ‘Mary Helen’, Zones 6–9)
6. Emerald Green arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Smaragd’, Zones 2–7)
7. Katsura (Cercidiphyllum japonicum, Zones 4–8)
8. ‘Snow Queen’ oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Snow Queen’, Zones 5–9)
9. Sombrero® Adobe Orange coneflower (Echinacea ‘Balsomador’, Zones 4–9)
10. ‘Royal Purple’ smoke tree (Cotinus coggygria ‘Royal Purple’, Zones 5–9)
11. ‘Color Guard’ yucca (Yucca filamentosa ‘Color Guard’, Zones 4–10)
12. ‘Kaleidoscope’ abelia (Abelia x grandiflora ‘Kaleidoscope’, Zones 5–9)

 

1. ‘Moon Bay’ heavenly bamboo (Nandina domestica ‘Moon Bay’, Zones 6–9)
2. ‘Thunderhead’ Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii ‘Thunderhead’, Zones 5–8)
3. Endless Summer bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Bailmer’, Zones 4–9)
4. Twist-n-Shout® bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘PIIHM-I’, Zones 4–9)
5. ‘Gracillimus’ maiden grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Gracillimus’, Zones 5–9)
6. Japanese maple seeding (Acer palmatum cv., Zones 5–8)
7. Autumn Joy sedum (Hylotelephium ‘Herbstfreude’, Zones 3–9)
8. ‘Munstead’ English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ‘Munstead’, Zones 5–8)
9. ‘October Glory’ red maple (Acer rubrum ‘October Glory’, Zones 4–9)
10. Rozanne geranium (Geranium ‘Gerwat’ , Zones 5–8)

Photos: doreenwynja.com

These gardening apps are like having a mini master gardener in your phone. From helping you plan your vegetable garden to identifying that volunteer plant in your garden, these are some of the best plant apps to download to your phone.

If your phone is anything like mine, the gallery is FULL of plant pictures. From the flowers in your planters to the wacky plant you spotted in your neighbourhood, the phone gallery is looking pretty green. And I love it!

With the right gardening apps downloaded, you can put those photos to good use. You can identify, document, map things out, run diagnostics, and learn some valuable plant care tips.

Now, I was a little skeptical of these apps, so I put them to the test. The ones that made the list, I think, are truly helpful for you and your garden.

Many of these apps have free and premium versions, so if you want to splurge for all the features, you can. But most of the free versions are great on their own!

Here are the best plant apps I’ll be talking about today…

Gardening Apps for Plant Identification

I see so many ads for IDing plants. The algorithm knows I’m a crazy plant lady, that’s for sure. I’m always skeptical of them and how well they work. And let me tell you, some work better than others. To find the best plant app, I used apps to ID plants that I already knew what they were.

For my little experiment, I chose three plants as I thought they might be a little more skill testing:

• Calendula. This picture is slightly blurry, and there are many generic yellow, daisy-like flowers that calendula could get mixed up for.
• Dahlia. While an easy flower to identify, there are many kinds of dahlias. I wanted to see how specific the app would get.
• Feverfew. This flower is often mistaken for chamomile, and I wanted to see if the app could tell the difference.

After trying out some apps, these are the ones that I thought did the best.

Picture This

One of the most popular plant identification apps out there, Picture This helps to identify flowers, leaves, trees, herbs, and more. It also allows you to diagnose plant problems and determine the amount of light in an area using your phone.

For the experiment, Picture This did the best of the three plant identification apps. It scored a perfect 3/3! I also found it the most user-friendly and robust of the bunch, so it comes as my highly recommended plant ID app.

PlantNet

PlantNet (Pl@ntNet) is an identification app focusing on flora within specific geographical regions. You can also search worldwide but may get a wider range of results. It describes itself as a citizen science project and is as simple as sharing your observations to help yourself and others.

For the experiment, PlantNet got a 2/3 score. It quickly identified the feverfew and the type of dahlia (Dahlia pinnata), but it wouldn’t even accept the calendula photo. So, it can be a little picky about the quality of the photos you’re trying to use.

Leafsnap

Leafsnap is a basic plant-identifying app that can also have a paid advanced identity function. With the advanced version, you can identify a plant just from its leaf. A diagnostics feature can also help you determine what’s wrong with your plant.

For the experiment, this one did fairly good but not perfect. It could easily identify the feverfew and the dahlia (down to the specific type). But for calendula, it suggested Asian globeflower first and then calendula as a second option. It also has an ad pop-up while you wait for the results in the free version.

Bonus! Google Lens

You don’t even need an app to find the plant you’re looking for. Now, you can upload your photo to Google, and it will help you find similar images. It’s very helpful for trying to identify your plants. If you have an Android, you can also use Google Lens directly on your phone. Look for the rounded square icon in your photo library, and it will search your photo!

Gardening Apps for Planning

Winter isn’t resting time…it’s planning time in the garden! These are some of the best gardening apps for mapping out a future garden and keeping track of what you’re growing.

Planter

If you’re having difficulty visualizing your garden, you can use Planter to map out where you’ll grow each plant. It has companion planting suggestions, so you get natural pest control without even trying. It also considers your location and tells you when to start your plants indoors, transplant them outside, and when to expect your first and last frost dates.

iScape

Is a large landscape overhaul in your future? iScape is a landscape design app used by landscape professionals and those looking to DIY the work at their own house. One of the app’s coolest features is that you can use pictures of your home and current space and add design elements and plants overtop to visualize how it will look. You can also easily come up with a materials list based on what you’ve inputted.

Gardenize

Garden journals are a very valuable tool to use for beginner and seasoned gardeners alike. You can use the Gardenize App as a virtual journal to store images of your plants to reference how well they’re growing and what to expect in the future. Think of it as a diary with place and time stamps. You can note any changes like weather, fertilizer applications, or other efforts you might be taking.

Gardroid

Gardroid is designed specifically for vegetable growers and small-scale farms. You can use it to find advice on growing and harvesting your vegetables. It lets you plan what you’re growing and gives you specific planting advice. Then, the app gives you an estimated harvest date and lets you make notes and set reminders. It’s a useful tool for beginner vegetable gardeners or those with a lot on their plate.

Gardening Apps for Plant Care

If you struggle with keeping a plant alive, perhaps you need an app to help guide you along the way. These gardening apps are designed to help you keep your plants alive!

Planta

Planta is one of the most successful gardening apps out there that many people love. You can use it for all kinds of things, including plant identification, as a light meter, diagnostic for sick and dying plants, and as a way to set reminders for watering, repotting, fertilizing, and more. It’s a good all-around app to ensure the health of your plant.

From Seed to Spoon

Started by gardening enthusiast and couple Dale and Carrie Spoonemore, the From Seed to Spoon app is designed to help simplify gardening for beginners. It allows you to grow food as easily as possible with personalized planting dates, companion planting suggestions, recipes, harvest dates, and more helpful tips you can use to grow food.

Garden Manager

If timing isn’t your forte, Garden Manager can help with just that. This garden alarm app lets you know when to start transplants, thin, harvest, and more based on where you live. It will also help you with your garden layout and make suggestions based on current weather and growing conditions.

Moon and Garden

Did you catch my article on moon gardening? The Moon and Garden app is designed for those who want to garden using the moon as an influence. It gives you suggestions for gardening and timing based on biodynamic agriculture, an alternative gardening method that tells you when to plant, harvest, and put the spade down based on the moon phase.

The Best Gardening App for Supporting Wildlife

Are you ever curious about what kind of wildlife is in your yard? With the iNaturalist app, you can record your wildlife observations and share them with fellow gardeners and naturalists to help you identify.  

It’s an app that can also help contribute to biodiversity studies. The app shares the data with organizations to help scientists use the data to understand wildlife numbers and their locations.

In our types of bees post, expert Lori Weidenhammer recommended using the iNaturalist app to help local researchers and scientists know what kind of bees are hanging out where.

And that wraps up my best plant app suggestions for gardeners! Do you use a gardening app not on this list? Share it in the comments below.

More Must-Know Gardening Tips

This article has the potential to be very short. That is because most garden plants provide some type of environmental benefit to their immediate surroundings—assuming they are chosen appropriately for the location, are not over-managed, and are not invasive. Plants cool the air in summer, reduce localized flooding risks, act as homes and corridors for wildlife, are barriers to pollution, and attenuate noise. But there may be some characteristics that help specific plants excel at providing benefits to us. And this may give some species or varieties an environmental edge, particularly on a small (individual plant and garden) scale. This is something I have been exploring in my research over the last 15 years for the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) in the United Kingdom.

Plants can influence the local environment and make it more livable

My research is driven by the fact that towns and cities worldwide are becoming bigger and more densely populated, and with this increase comes associated environmental problems (increased flooding risks, elevated temperatures because of a surge in built-up impervious surfaces, more noise and reduced air quality from vehicles and industrial sources, etc.). As a plant physiologist and horticultural scientist, I was well aware of the broad spectrum of plant functions and structures that exist in nature and among cultivated plant species. To put it simply, a cactus looks and functions very differently from a broadleaf evergreen. I therefore wondered: To what extent (and on what scale) did their environmental impacts differ too?

Over the years my research has focused predominantly on outdoor plants’ functional and structural traits linked to the ability to cool, reduce rainfall runoff, and attract and retain airborne-particulate pollution. My team’s experiments initially focused just on the “individual services” of plants. For example, what are some of the characteristics of plants that cool best? Is leaf color or thickness important for cooling? In studying various individual plant services, however, we noticed that there was an overlap in many cases. “Favorable” characteristics for the delivery of one service (e.g., ambient cooling) appeared as important for good delivery of another service (e.g., reduction of rainfall runoff).

Learn more:

Gardening in a Changing Climate

Native Plants are Key to Saving Our Ecosystems

Learn more about sustainable gardening

Positive-impact plants that cool the environment

Plants provide surface and ambient cooling via three principal mechanisms: evapotranspiration (ET), shading, and reflection. ET cooling is a property that nonliving structures do not possess. ET cooling is the process by which plants convert water within their cells into water vapor, which is released into the air. This process consumes energy (heat) from the air, thereby leading to ambient cooling. Generally, plants with higher rates of water use and greater ET provide greater leaf and ambient cooling.

In our research, we looked at plants with:

1. Different ET rates

2. Various leaf colors (lighter and darker)

3. Those with and without leaf hairs

We then tried to understand the relative importance of those traits for leaf, ground surface, and ambient cooling.

Plants can help to reduce summertime heat, but . . .

• This is a localized effect

• The larger the canopy and the larger the plants’ ET rate, the bigger the impact

• Light leaf color leads to lower leaf temperatures and greater energy reflection, but this impacts cooling only when ET is high (i.e., with well-watered plants)

Examples of plants we worked with that show noteworthy cooling traits: Salvia (Salvia spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9) Lambs’ ears (Stachys byzantina and cvs., Zones 4–8) Heuchera (Heuchera spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9) Sycamore maple (Acer pseudoplatanus* and cvs., Zones 4–7) *See invasive alert below.

 

Caution! For temperature impacts on larger scales, a significant amount of plants/greenery must be present.

Positive-impact plants that mitigate flooding

Plants help with managing rainfall through two main mechanisms: by retaining/storing some of it in their canopies and by enhancing the soil’s capacity to store subsequent rainfall (through ET and the removal of water from the soil). This is particularly important in cities, where soil becomes “sealed” through urbanization, directly increasing localized flooding risks.

We tested the capacity of a range of plants with:

1. Different leaf areas and canopy densities

2. Different ET rates

The goal was to observe the plants’ ability to store water in their canopies and increase the soil’s capacity to receive further rain. We also investigated how the importance of a certain trait changes depending on the environmental conditions (e.g., what traits are more advantageous in cool and humid weather scenarios versus warm and dry ones).

Plants can help to reduce rainfall runoff and flood risks, but . . .

• This is a localized effect

• The larger the canopy and the larger the plants’ ET rate, the bigger the impact on runoff reduction

• Soil plays the biggest role in storing excess rainfall, but plants help keep soil in place

Examples of plants we worked with that show noteworthy rainfall capture traits: Salvia Lambs’ ears Sedum (Sedum spp. and cvs. and Hylotelephium spp. and cvs., Zones 3–11; in cool and humid conditions due to canopy retention) Gray cotoneaster (Cotoneaster franchetii*, Zones 6–9) *See invasive alert below. Common hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna and cvs., Zones 4–8; when in leaf)

 

Caution! No amount of planting will offer protection from rare, catastrophic flooding events.

Positive-impact plants that capture air pollutants

There is a strong public perception that planting in urban environments helps improve air quality. This is true to an extent; plants capture gases (such as CO2) through their normal function. And they can help capture other polluting gases as well, including but not limited to NO2, SO2, and CO. Research shows, however, that plants are only a “third line” of defense against pollution. More important factors are reducing levels of pollutant emissions (from transportation vehicles and industrial or domestic sources) and increasing the distance from the pollution sources.

We worked with several hedge species exhibiting:

1. A range of leaf characteristics (smooth, rough, scaly)

2. Various plant shapes

3. Assorted canopy densities

Our research involved observing different leaf and canopy characteristics and discovering which ones showed better trapping and retention of airborne particulate matter (PM) in a roadside situation, which gets deposited on leaf surfaces and thus is taken out of the air.

Plants can help to reduce pollution, but . . .

• Rough and hairy leaf surfaces attract and retain more particulate matter (PM)

• Large, dense canopies provide better trapping and retention of PM

• Evergreen is better than deciduous at providing year-round PM capture

• The local effect is in proportion to the extent of the greenery

Examples of plants we worked with that show noteworthy air-pollutant capture: Gray cotoneaster Western red cedar (Thuja plicata, Zones 5–7) Silverberry (Elaeagnus × submacrophylla, Zones 7–9)

 

Caution! Reduction of emissions has a greater impact than plants. Also, large, closed canopies in narrow street canyons can decrease air quality.

 

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LEARN MORE

Scale Definitely Matters

A word of caution before we get too excited about the importance of particular plant traits: The scale at which we measure the impact of certain plants influences the level of importance we need to ascribe to the traits of those plants. At the level of an individual leaf or plant, the traits are very impactful. The jury is still out (that is, we are still conducting research) on what the “rules” are for an intermediate/whole-garden scale. In other words, within a wider suburban landscape, we don’t know how environmentally impactful plants with certain traits are.

My experience to date suggests that for smaller garden spaces we could maximize some aspects of how well they perform—capture more water, reduce runoff, cool and shelter better—by choosing an array of plants that combine well and excel individually in providing those earth-friendly services.

Within a dense urban environment like Boston (see above), which has a visually discernible presence of green space from a satellite image, or Los Angeles (see below), which has far less discernible green space, any planting (regardless of the traits those plants possess) is extremely important. The more green space, the better.

Learn more about how gardeners can help battle climate change

Living Lightly on the Land

How Sustainable is Your Landscape?

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TAKE ACTION

What can gardeners do to have a positive impact?

Historically, choices of what we plant in our gardens were driven mostly by site needs, aesthetics, cost, and management requirements. While these will continue to be important, as gardeners in the 21st century, we need to move to the next -level of considerations. At the point of planting, we should weigh the environmental impact of the plants we select, and think about which plant traits would be useful to improve the delivery of environmental benefits (cooling, noise attenuation, pollutant trapping, -rainwater capture, etc.).

Broadly speaking, we can maximize the benefits we receive from our green spaces by choosing a diverse range of perennial and woody plants that:

• are physiologically active, i.e. alive and thriving
• have high evapotranspiration
• feature light leaf colors
• have rough/hairy foliage
• have the potential to develop into nice large canopies

Learn more:

Hedges: Choices with environmental benefits

Green Heroes: Plants Making a Positive Environmental Impact

 Earth-friendly Gardening

Keystone Plants with Doug Tallamy

 

Invasive Alerts*

• Sycamore maple (Acer pseudoplatanus) is considered invasive in CT, MA, NY, PA
• Gray cotoneaster (Cotoneaster franchetii) is considered invasive in CA

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Tijana Blanusa, Ph.D., is a principal horticultural scientist and research fellow with the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) at the University of Reading in the United Kingdom.

Carol posts a few thoughts on one of my survival gardening videos:

“First, thank you, well done. Also, I’ve never heard anyone really address the issue of nutrient dense foods. Only calories. Frankly, the vast majority of people would do far better if they are less calories. A LOT less calories. Three meals a day is a marketing campaign, not healthy advice. Second, animals produce the fat soluble vitamins we need, so some sort of animal should be in your plan (even if you simply maintain a good ecosystem on your property so that pigeons, squirrels, etc. are available if needed.) I have larger animals, but I also maintain a small herd of guinea pigs. They’re basically self sustaining, and have enough fat to nourish people and pets both (look up “rabbit starvation”.) Even folks in an apartment could keep something like quail. Eggs are a perfect food. Plus, don’t forget to take a second look at those “weeds” you pull each year to make way for non- native fruits and veggies. Some of the weeds are far more nutritious than they plants you’re replacing them with! And they are almost guaranteed to thrive in your garden! Plantain, mallow, lamb’s quarters, amaranth, purslane, lady’s thumb, burdock root, bull thistle, chicory, dandelion, wild violets, and poke weed are all edible on my small property.”

She makes some good suggestions, and there are a few points I believe are worth making as well.

The nutrient density of food is quite important. It’s one of the reasons we grow our own, as we can harvest directly from the garden, knowing what we fed to the soil, and get maximum goodness by having food so fresh it sometimes only takes minutes to go from the garden to the kitchen to the table.

Steve Solomon and I have discussed the importance of nutrient density as well, and he helped me create a nutrient mix to boost mineral content in our gardens.

However, calories are key in a survival situation. It doesn’t matter if you have the most nutrient-dense kale in the world, it won’t fill you up in an emergency.

The video Carol is commenting on was focused primarily on survival, and I always urge people to grow calories first to stay full, followed by a lesser amount of nutrient-dense vegetables. As for people eating too much and three meals a day being unnecessary – sure. That’s true. But it’s not what we’re worried about in a societal collapse. People will get thin and hungry fast. Also, calories are not just calories. I’ve eaten a large amount of calories on a carnivore diet and it made me lean and fit. I’ve also eaten a large amount of calories that were pasta and chips and cheese dip and got too fat.

The content of the calories really matters. Pasta ≠ Steak

On the survival front, Carol’s recommendation to add animal foods is very true. We’ve not raised guinea pigs for food, but we have raised goats, pigs, sheep, dairy cows, rabbits, chickens, ducks and guinea fowl with varying levels of success. If you can grow enough vegetable food to feed your animals and let them concentrate it into fat and protein, you’ll be in great shape. But the main focus in the video was on survival gardening, not a complete homesteading regime. Carol is right, however: you really can raise some good food in a small space. I just find guinea pigs rather cute and might find them hard to butcher. I couldn’t care less about chickens, though. We butchered five roosters just this last week. You do need that good fat, too, and we get it from cooking with home-rendered lard and tallow.

Eggs are indeed a perfect food. Definitely raise some breed of fowl for eggs if you can.

As for the weeds, this brings up another good point, and that is:

You may not even need to grow your own greens for nutrition

If you don’t have animal food, greens (and other foraged foods) will help you get the micronutrients you might be missing in a diet of staple grains and roots. Many of them are free for the picking.

We eat wild onions, dandelion, Bidens alba, blueberries, sparkleberries, blackberries, wild amaranth, chickweed, henbit, cleavers, wild violets, purslane, wild grape leaves and grapes, smilax shoots, chanterelle mushrooms and whatever else we can forage.

Why bother to grow lettuce when we can pick much more nutritionally dense “weeds” around the front lawn?

However, I must make one point on the “non-native” angle in Carol’s comment: many of the non-native foods we grow are incredibly important for keeping people fed. In our gardens, we would lack cassava, potatoes, sweet potatoes and true yams, all of which produce abundantly for us.

As with everything, there is a certain balance. We need that nutrient-dense food, and a diet of empty calories won’t make us healthy long term. Yet on the other hand, I would be really happy for a bowl of mashed cassava on an empty stomach instead of a bowl of dandelion greens.

Let’s meet in the middle and eat both.

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Cabbage, Brassica oleracea

When I think of cabbage, my brain immediately goes to Peter Rabbit sneaking into Mr. McGregor’s garden to steal crops. Fortunately, unless you’re a rabbit, there’s no need for trespassing and theft if you want to enjoy fresh cabbage: You can grow your own rather easily.

Here are some tricks and tips for growing cabbage:

When autumn begins to elbow summer out of the way, it’s time to ponder cool season crops. A standout fall vegetable is cabbage. This one to two foot tall and wide vegetable really appreciates cooler weather and shorter days—which means now’s the perfect time to shop for starts and get them in the ground. But guess what? You can plant cabbage in the spring, too (just plant them in the garden four weeks before your last spring frost date).

You can also grow it from seed. For this economical method, plant seeds 1/4 inch deep, six to 12 inches apart, in rows one to two feet apart. For a fall crop, seeds should be planted mid-summer. For your spring planting, plant your spring cabbage between taller plants like corn so that your cabbage stays cool and doesn’t sulk from the heat. When it comes to ideal temperatures, cabbage is a bit like Goldilocks: It must be grown before the crushing heat of summer, or the plant will wither or bolt, or before fall’s freezing temperatures. The ideal temperature for cabbage to thrive is around 60 to 65 degrees F.

This versatile vegetable is packed with calcium and vitamins A, B, and C. Plus, cabbage is tasty raw or cooked. I like to cut a head of green cabbage into one-inch-thick slices, rub avocado oil on them, season with salt and pepper, and then roast the slices at 400 degrees in the oven. I turn them over after the first side browns a bit. Then when they are soft, I take them out and drizzle them with a lemony thyme dressing.

Cheat Sheet

• Avoid planting cabbage near other Brassicas such as broccoli, as they both attract the same problems associated with pests and disease. Instead, plant them with other cool season plants, like beets, onions, carrots, and parsnips.
• Because of these plant’s small and sturdy size, they will not need any cages or support system.
• Bees and other pollinators will visit your plant but only if you aren’t growing your cabbage as an annual. Flowers will only form on the second year. Most people grow cabbage as an annual as the quality diminishes the second year.
• Cabbage can be grown in a plot, raised bed, or a container that’s at least a foot wide and deep, with sufficient drain holes.
• Looking for a pop of color in your vegetable bed or your cooking? Grow purple cabbage.

Keep It Alive

• Cabbage grows best in sunny spot in loamy rich soil that is moderately moist but well draining. Add mulch around your plants because consistent water is a key factor in head development.
• Did you know that cracked cabbage heads are a result of uneven watering or from harvesting too late?
• Tolerating temperatures down to 20 degrees F, cabbage can be grown even in the winter if you live in a mild climate.
• If your leaves start yellowing, fertilize your plant with composted manure or fish emulsion to boost nitrogen.
• Many different diseases can affect cabbages. Look for resistant cultivars.
• Begin harvesting after the heads have formed and when they feel solid and substantial. Tip: Smaller heads are sweeter. Use a sharp and sturdy knife to cut the head above the loose outer leaves if you want to keep growing your cabbage.
• Always read your seed packet or garden tag to learn how many days from seed/start to harvest, but in general it takes about 2 months.

See also:

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Today we’re in Portland, Oregon, visiting with Zeah.

I’ve loved interesting plants since I was small, growing plants in my mother’s garden and killing orchids from the yearly orchid show. I’ve worked in the horticulture industry several times, and I’ve grown plants on my own whenever I had the resources. Last year I was given the opportunity to take over one of the coolest gardens in the Pacific Northwest, the home of Lance Wright, formerly a Portland Parks Bureau horticulturist for three decades. Now I have a home where the jungle extends from my bedroom to the street, with more diversity than some botanical gardens.

Bomarea is a South American vine related to Alstromeria. This hybrid form dies back to the ground every winter.

A bog planter with mostly carnivorous plants

The most iconic of the carnivorous plants is Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula ‘DCXL’, Zones 7–10). This selection has unusually large and beautifully patterned traps.

This is a collection of lithops (aka living rocks), tiny succulent plants with leaves that store water and mimic the look of stones to avoid being eaten. To avoid forgetting the names of the varieties, Zeah made a diagram of what is planted where, using the crack at the bottom of the pot as a reference point. That’s a great way to keep track of what plant is what without having to add little labels everywhere.

An enormous stand of Musa sikkamensis (Zones 7–10, maybe colder with protection). Adding a thick layer of leaves or other protection in the winter helps plants like these overwinter in cold zones.

A big planter full of vegetables provides food and screening, turning this front porch into a private garden nook.

A very HOT pepper harvest: yellow and peach Bhut Jolokia and some Trinidad Moruga Black scorpion peppers.

An exploration of bonsai, with a little Rhododendron ‘Ramapo’ (Zones 4–8)

Snow over the Portland jungle garden

Sunset over the garden

If you want to see more of this garden, check out Zeah’s Instagram: @pdxplantyvibes

 

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