Category: Home & Garden

Our little herb garden just outside of the back door had too much sun and not enough water this summer.

This morning some of the children and I did some weeding and mulching to start putting the space back into shape.

That mulched area was full of plants back in spring and early summer, but there were multiple casualties. The heat killed the lemon balm, the mint, the chives, the lamb’s ear, the strawberries and probably a half-dozen other plants.

Here’s that space back on June 6th of this year:

Here’s another angle, taken this morning:

And here’s that area back in June:

The African blue basil has become a big bush now, though the dahlia, dill, lavender and mullein bit the dust.

We know what can take the heat now!

Here you can see the African blue basil with Mimosa pudica and a daisy I transplanted from a parking area near our church in Pensacola:

The little lion’s ear (Leonotis leonurus) we planted in spring is now nice and big:

It’s about to bloom:

Here’s a view over the herb garden into the area where we planted sunn hemp a couple of months ago:

That is a terrible cover crop, considering how incredible sunn hemp normally grows. It should be taller than a man, and very thick and green – yet the heat and drought were incredible. Still, we’ll get some nitrogen and biomass from it. It’s amazing it grew at all.

Two weeks ago my friend James helped me move our bathtub worm bin into the garden area where we’ll get more use from the “worm tea.”

Before moving it, I harvested 25 gallons of worm castings! 20 of them went into the 3′ x 30′ bed we made for our fall daikon plot, and the last 5 gallons we gave to James’ wife Holly for her gardening projects.

Now that the bucket is right by the garden, we can easily mix some with water to use as a tonic for sad plants.

Also, here’s another look at the Mimosa pudica. 

I really don’t know why we’re growing this stuff except that it’s amazing to watch it shrink away when you touch it.

It’s cousin Mimosa invisa was a terrible weed down in Grenada. It looked the same as M. pudica but had horrible thorns which made it very difficult to weed. This plant is not nearly that thorny. I’ve thought about planting it around the base of a fruit tree as a nitrogen-fixing ground cover, though I’m not sure if it will live through winter.

I had a vision of our herb garden being a beautiful mass of green by the end of the year but the sun was just relentless.

I think we’re going to have to add some shade for this next year. Perhaps we’ll put in some trellises and/or some small fruit trees.

Share this post!

Are you struggling with an ant infestation in your potted plants? This article will show you how to get rid of ants in plant pots, with ten easy, natural methods you can try.

The invasion of ants into plant pots can be a frustrating ordeal. An ant infestation not only undermines the aesthetics of your indoor and outdoor plant displays, but also poses a threat to the overall health of your plants.

However, armed with the right knowledge and tactics, you can regain control of your plant pots and enjoy flourishing greenery and flowers once more.

Employing a combination of strategic methods and natural remedies is the best way to effectively control ants, while safeguarding your beloved potted plant.

This article covers ten methods of using natural products to prevent or stop ants from infesting your pot plants.

Understanding why ants nest in container plants

The first step in combating ant problems is to identify the source of their attraction, and their entry points.

Food source

Ants are typically drawn to the presence of a food source. This makes plant pots, with their moist soil and organic matter, an inviting location.

The food source could also be nectar. This is present in flowering plants on flowers or buds.  Ants will make a beeline for sugary substances.  If you’re growing fruit in pots, this also provides a sweet food source for ants.

Hydrophobic soil

When potting compost becomes hydrophobic, it has dried out to the point where water doesn’t drain into the soil. Instead, it sits on the surface or runs off.  Potting mix in containers is particularly prone to becoming hydrophobic.

Ants love dry soil, which is why dried-out pots are attractive to them.

Plant pests

Some species of ant eat other plant pests. If there are mealybugs, aphids or other sap-eating insects on your pot plants, you may find they are a target for ants.

What does ant damage look like in plants?

Ants won’t usually damage the plant itself, as they mainly feed on sweet substances and other insects.

To identify ant damage in your plants, look out for these telltale signs:

• Soil deposits around the pot or on the surface of the soil – caused by ants excavating tunnels.
• Dehydrated plant roots – caused by ants disturbing them as they dig a nest.
• Wilted leaves – caused by root disturbance. This can also be caused by under-watering though.
• Increased presence of aphids – some types of ants actually farm aphids for their sap. Yes, they’re that clever!

Should I use ant baits to get rid of ants?

A common method of eliminating ants from the garden is to disrupt their foraging patterns by employing ant baits. These baits for your ant infestation can be homemade or store-bought, and are usually laced with a sweet substance that attracts the ants. Once consumed, the ants carry the bait back to their colony, effectively eradicating the entire ant nest and any queen ants.

While ant killer is an effective method of controlling ants, it’s worth remembering that ants play an important role in a garden’s ecosystem and the food chain in general. Killing them disrupts the natural balance, and this disruption is even more impactful if chemical sprays and insecticides are used. These products don’t just kill ants; you may also harm natural predators and beneficial insects.

It’s always advisable to exhaust natural remedies before resorting to chemical interventions.

Many people use an insecticide spray, poisonous traps or insecticidal soap for ant control, but there are plenty of effective natural remedies that can also be used.

How to get rid of ants in plant pots naturally

These natural ways to keep ants under control will help your potted plants to thrive.

Homemade ant spray

1. Add bay leaves and cloves to a glass jug.
2. Pour boiling water into the jug on top of the ingredients in the jug.
3. Allow the water to cool to room temperature.
4. Pour the liquid (including any ingredients, if they fit) into the spray bottle.
5. To make the solution even less apprealing to ants, add a little white vinegar.
6. Spray affected plants and soil regularly.

Spread diatomaceous earth

Diatomaceous earth (also known as silicone dioxide) is a powdery substance made from fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms. It has sharp edges that physically damage ants’ exoskeletons.

You can spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the plant and on the top of the soil to deter ants and limit their numbers.

Mint tea bags

Place peppermint or spearmint tea bags near the ants’ point of entry. Ants do not like the smell of mint and will keep away.

You can also brew mint tea, allow it to cool, and spray it on the soil and plants. Peppermint essential oils mixed with water is another good option.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers can be an effective ant repellent – particularly the more bitter outer skin.

Place them around your plant pots or on the surface of the soil.  This will provide a scent that ants dislike and encourage them to stay away.

Citrus peel

Similar to cucumbers, ants are no fans of the strong smell of citrus fruits. Scattering orange peels, lemon rinds, grapefruit peels or citrus oil around and in your pots will deter them.

Ground coffee

Coffee grounds can be sprinkled around flower pots to prevent ants invading. This works because ground coffee contains nitrogen which damages ants if they decide to crawl through it.

Cinnamon

You can use these store cupboard staples to keep ants away from your plants.  Sprinkle cinnamon powder, ground pepper, cinnamon oil or cinnamon sticks on and around your pots to provide ants with an unappealing scent.

Pepper

This works in the same way as cinnamon, by providing a smell that ants don’t like. Sprinkle ground pepper around and in pots.

Chalk

A line of chalk will interrupt the ants’ scent trail, which can cause them to head off somewhere else.  Try drawing a chalk line around the bottom of your plant pots.

Water moat

Placing a moat of fresh water underneath your outdoor plants can make it harder for ants to reach them. Do be careful not to saturate your pots though, as this can damage the plant’s roots.

Reducing the likelihood of ant problems

Having taken the time to get rid of ants in plant pots, it makes sense to try and avoid the problem happening again. As always, prevention is better than cure.

Here are some ways to stop ants causing a problem in your potted plants:

• Place fine mesh over the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
• Use pot feet to lift your pots off the ground and make it harder for ants to gain entry.
• Check your pots for natural crevices that allow ants to gain access. Replace damaged or cracked pots.
• Water your container plants regularly, and don’t allow the soil to dry out.
• Remove debris such as fallen leaves and dead flowers from the surface of container plants.
• Remove old potting soil, which is more likely to dry out and attract ants. Replace with new soil regularly.
• Employ barrier methods to stop ants getting to your pots. We’ve covered lots of these already.
• Stay on top of other insect pests in the garden to cut off the ants’ food source.
• Encourage natural enemies of ants into your garden. These include birds, small mammals, amphibians and spiders. Our tips on wildlife gardening have lots of great ways to do this.
• Regularly inspect the pots for signs of ant activity, such as ant hills or worker ant trails. This will help you to catch infestations early.

The battle against ants in plant pots can feel daunting, but you can adopt a multi-pronged approach to tackle the problem. Using natural deterrents, barrier methods and preventative measures will allow you to reclaim your plant pots from these persistent invaders. By understanding these small insects behaviour and employing these natural solutions, you can safeguard your indoor plants and outdoor plant displays, while respecting the delicate balance of the garden ecosystem.

More container gardening tips

For more advice on growing plants in pots, take a look at these additional resources:

Low maintenance plants for outdoor pots

Over 25 gorgeous low maintenance outdoor potted plants to make container gardening really low-effort.

Seasonal guides to container planting

These handy lists of perfect container plants for spring, summer, autumn and winter will help you create a year-round display.

Beautiful hanging baskets

If you love your hanging baskets, make sure you take a look at our trailing plants for hanging baskets roundup, our plants for winter hanging baskets, and our tips on how to create hanging basket wow factor.

The best compost for pots

We explain how to choose the right compost for potted plants in this comprehensive guide.

Container vegetable gardening

Pots are perfect for veggies too! Find out which ones work best in this guide to easy vegetables to grow in pots.

Pin for later: how to get rid of ants in plant pots

Today, we will discuss how growing these crops together can be beneficial. Take a look below at the topics we will be going over:

What Is a Three Sisters Garden?

Regardless of how it may sound, the term “three sisters” does not refer to a group of sisters cultivating the land together.

The three sisters is an intercropping practice that involves planting corn, beans, and squash at the same time in the same growing area.

It symbolizes a harmonious partnership among these three crops.

In the time-honored tradition of three sisters gardening, each mutually compatible crop plays a vital role within the thriving harmony of the garden.

The corn provides a sturdy pole (stalk) for the beans to climb, creating a natural trellis. In return, the pole beans contribute nitrogen to the soil, acting as a natural fertilizer, while also utilizing the corn stalks for support.

Meanwhile, the sprawling squash plants serve as a protective ground cover, effectively conserving soil moisture, reducing evaporation, and suppressing weeds.

Additionally, the broad squash leaves provide essential shading for the soil, helping to maintain a stable and favorable microclimate for all three crops.

You can read all about the scientifically-backed benefits of companion planting in our guide.

Cultivation and History

The three sisters agricultural technique is believed to have spread from Mesoamerica to North America, becoming a widespread practice among indigenous Native American tribes.

However, there is no specific known date for its adoption by these tribes.

This sustainable farming method was prevalent among various Indigenous communities, including the Mandan, Pueblo, Haudenosaunee (Iroquois), Cherokee, and tribes in the Northeast, Southeast, and Midwest regions.

It is often associated with the Northeastern Woodland tribes, particularly the Iroquois Confederacy. The name “The Three Sisters” originates from an Iroquois legend.

Alternative versions exist, but according to one such legend, Mother Earth passed away while giving birth to twin boys. Sky Woman buried her daughter in the “new earth.”

From her grave emerged three sacred plants: corn, beans, and squash. These not only symbolized life and sustenance but also served as vital sources of nourishment for generations to come.

These three sister spirits were known as “Diohe’ko,” meaning “our sustainers,” and “Kionhekwa,” meaning “life-givers.” According to legend, the “Great Spirit” gifted these sisters to the people, leading to the term “three sisters plot.”

The Iroquois had been cultivating the “three sisters” for over three centuries by the time European settlers arrived in America in the early 1600s.

Preparing the Planting Area

Ready to start your own three sisters garden?

Before planting, it’s important to begin with thoughtful planning and soil preparation.

Start by conducting a soil test and prepare your garden site, whether that’s by adding compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss to improve the soil structure and add nutrients.

Clearing the area of grass, weeds, and stones is also recommended.

The ideal soil characteristics for this garden include good drainage, and a loamy texture that combines sand, silt, and clay. This combination supports both moisture retention and nutrient availability.

Aim for a slightly acidic to neutral pH range, around 6.0 to 7.0, to accommodate the preferences of corn, beans, and squash.

Now, let’s talk about water. Ensuring consistent moisture is vital for your three sisters garden’s success.

Throughout the entire growing season, it’s essential to maintain a steady water supply of at least one inch per week.

This consistent watering regimen, whether from rainfall, automatic irrigation, or manual watering, will help your garden thrive throughout the entire growing season.

Before we dive into the details of growing your crops, it’s worth mentioning that there are alternative approaches to cultivating a three sisters garden.

However, I’d like to share the method I have used, which resulted in a beautiful and thriving garden.

I’ll admit, I’m a bit of a lazy gardener. In early spring, rather than laboriously turning over the soil and weeding in the area, I opted for a more lazy but not less efficient approach.

I strategically laid down cardboard across the surface, and to my delight, this method seamlessly accomplished the task of clearing the unwanted vegetation.

Along with this clearing method I prepared a mound (we’ll talk about how to do this shortly), and waited to start growing in late April.

Speaking of timing, it’s recommended to start planting in late spring to early summer, after the last frost date in your area. Select a sunny site that will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight.

The three sisters garden should be started when nighttime temperatures dip no lower than around 50°F, no later than June.

According to Haudenosaunee tradition, planting commences when the leaves of the dogwood tree have grown to the size of a squirrel’s ear. Interesting, right? Using nature’s science.

When preparing your soil, shape it into a raised circular mound approximately one foot in height, with a diameter ranging from 18 inches to three feet.

My preference was to use a mixture of 70 percent soil and 30 percent compost when constructing these mounds.

If you would like to create multiple mounds and have the space for them, ensure a distance of three to four feet between each mound in every direction.

How to Grow

Start by soaking approximately four to seven corn seeds overnight before planting them. Soaking will help your seeds absorb moisture, encouraging germination.

Sow the seeds one inch deep in the middle of the mound, giving them about six inches of space between each one. As they grow, you’ll want to thin them out so that you have three or four healthy seedlings per mound.

Around one to two weeks after planting the beans, sow six to eight squash seeds so they’re evenly spaced along the outer edge of the mound or around 12 to 15 inches outside the beans, putting two seeds in each hole to help make sure that at least one germinates.

You can assist by using your hands to gently lift and guide the squash vines in the direction you want them to grow.

Be careful not to break or damage the vines while doing this. You can also train the vines to extend toward the open spaces by gently bending or coaxing them in that direction.

You can also use small stakes or twine to gently secure the vines in the desired path. However, like with the pole beans, you can let this process happen naturally as well.

Find more information about growing healthy squash plants here.

Harvest

Let’s talk about harvesting!

Corn is best in autumn when the silk is dry and dark brown.

For beans, pick them fresh when pods are firm, typically in the late morning after the nighttime dew has dried. You can also let beans dry on the vine for later use.

As for squash, summer squash can be harvested when it’s small or larger, depending on your preference and the recommended number of days to maturity.

Winter squash should be picked when the skin hardens in the autumn, but be careful not to damage the stem to prevent rot in storage.

We’re nearing our 150^th episode mark and for us, that has meant a lot of plants discussed. But it’s also meant a lot of great guest appearances. As you know, each episode we ask an expert from the field of horticulture to lend us their brains and weigh-in on some great plant choices for the topic at hand. We’ve had guests who made us laugh, think twice about a much-maligned perennial, or even come to realize that there are far better options out there for our gardens. Who was our funniest guest? The one that made us seriously reconsider our planting choices? Or the one who made us grip the steering wheel with white knuckles (yes—that did actually happen)? Tune in now to find out and listen to our favorite guest segments.

Featured guests:

• Riz Reyes, a horticulturist and floral designer based in Seattle.
• Richard Hawke is the director of ornamental plant research at the Chicago Botanic Garden in Glencoe, Illinois.
• Irvin Etienne is curator of herbaceous plants and seasonal garden design for The Garden at Newfields in Indianapolis.
• Sabrena Schweyer and her husband, Samuel Salsbury, own and manage Salsbury-Schweyer Inc., a sustainable landscape design and development group based in Akron, Ohio. Read her latest article here: https://www.finegardening.com/article/replace-a-front-lawn-with-a-beautiful-eco-friendly-garden

 

Irvin Etienne’s Upgraded Classics

Classic: ‘Flamenco’ red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria ‘Flamenco’, Zones 5–9) Photo: David J. Stang, via Wikimedia Commons

Upgrade: ‘Mango Popsicle’ red-hot poker (Kniphofia ‘Mango Popsicle’, Zones 6–9) Photo: Irvin Etienne

Classic: ‘Fireball’ hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus ‘Fireball’, Zones 5–9) Photo: courtesy of David J. Stang, via Wikimedia Commons

Upgrade: ‘Holy Grail’ hardy hibiscus (Hibiscus ‘Holy Grail’, Zones 4–9)

Classic: ‘Storm Cloud’ lily of the Nile (Agapanthus ‘Storm Cloud’, Zones 7b–10) Photo: ©Armitage/Hip Labels, LLC

Upgrade: ‘Galaxy Blue’ lily of the Nile (Agapanthus ‘Galaxy Blue’, Zones 6–10) Photo: Irvin Etienne

Classic: ‘Black Knight’ butterfly bush (Buddleia davidii ‘Black Knight’, Zones 5–9)

Upgrade: ‘Grand Cascade’ butterfly bush (Buddleia ‘Grand Cascade’, Zones 5–10) Photo: Irvin Etienne

Classic: Mimosa (Albizia julibrissin, Zones 6–9) Photo: Simon Garbutt, via Wikimedia Commons

Upgrade: ‘Summer Chocolate’ mimosa (Albizia julibrissin ‘Summer Chocolate’, Zones 6–9)

 

Richard Hawke’s Favorite Vines (original episode #37)

‘Guernsey Cream’ clematis (Clematis ‘Guernsey Cream’, Zones 4-9)

Rüütel™ clematis (Clematis ‘Kiviruut’, Zones 4-9)

‘Madame Julia Correvon’ clematis (Clematis ‘Madame Julia Correvon’, Zones 4-9)

‘Princess Diana’ clematis (Clematis ‘Princess Diana’, Zones 4-8)

‘Prince Charles’ clematis (Clematis ‘Prince Charles’, Zones 4-8)

Variegated kiwi vine (Actinidia kolomikta, Zones 4-8)

Climbing hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris, Zones 4-8)

Japanese hydrangea vine (Schizophragma hydrangeoides, Zones 6-9)

Chinese Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus henryana, Zones 7-9) credit: Doreen Wynja

American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens, Zones 5-8)

 

Sabrena Schweyer’s Problem-Solving Perennials

Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica, Zones 3–8)

‘Eastern Star’ white wood aster (Eurybia divaricata ‘Eastern Star’, Zones 3–8)

Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana, Zones 3–9)

Short-toothed mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum, Zones 4–8)

 

Riz Reyes’ Favorite Container Plants (original episode # 86)

‘Kiwi Fern’ coleus (Plectranthus scutellarioides ‘Kiwi Fern’, Zones 10-11)

Aeonium (Aeonium spp. and cvs., Zones 9-11)

Shearer’s felt fern (Pyrrosia sheareri, Zones 7-10)

‘Dancing Queen’ hosta (Hosta ‘Dancing Queen’, Zones 3-8)

We divide plants for two main reasons. First is to rejuvenate. As some plants grow older, they bloom less and are less vigorous. Dividing rejuvenates them. Second reason is to get more plants! If you love the plants you have, why buy more when you can make more? Fall is the ideal time to divide perennials. The cooler weather and the gradual fade to dormancy puts considerably less stress on plants. This is a good thing, because digging up and dividing plants can stress them out.

Photography by Joy Yagid.

Before you start digging up plants to divide, remember that not every plant can be divided—and of those that can be divided, fall may not be the best time to do it. In addition, how you divide them matters. Technique varies depending on the type of root system each plant has. Plants can have traditional roots (like black-eyed Susans), fibrous clumps (like ostrich ferns), rhizomes (like hostas), crowns (like Joe Pye weed), or tubers (like daylilies).

What You’ll Need

Once you know what can be divided and how, you need to make sure you have the proper tools. Beyond a good pair of garden gloves to protect your hands and maybe a tarp to contain the soil, you will need a garden spade or shovel, a spading fork (or two if you have a big job), a pair of pruners, and either a trowel or a hori hori knife (see Tools of the Trade: Japanese Garden Tools). The hori hori can do double duty as both a trowel and a knife and is the reason I prefer it. One less tool to carry.

A few large empty nursery pots will make it easier to move the divided plants around or to hold them for a few days until you decide what to do with them. Don’t let them dry out if you’re not replanting immediately. When you do replant, give them the best start by digging a hole one and a half to two times the size of the roots, back fill with good quality garden soil, and water deeply.

Today we’re in Raleigh, North Carolina, visiting with John Matthews.

I am an avid gardener, and while my gardens show very well during the day, I really like the fact that the gardens are showcased the other half of the day—nighttime. Strategically placing landscaping lighting throughout the gardens makes the environment magical. The lighting, combined with the sounds from the 65-foot meandering creek bisecting the backyard, make entertaining at night a special occasion. In fact, the Raleigh Garden Club thought my suggestion of conducting a dusk/nighttime tour of my gardens complete with wine and appetizers was so intriguing that they made it the highlight of their 2024 garden tour schedule, which will bring members to the gardens in late May.

Serenity is not the only aspect of the gardens. The full-size bonfire pit surrounded with Edison bulbs illuminating the space, along with benches made from fallen trees, is the perfect outdoor entertainment setting in the dead of winter. Lastly, what nighttime garden paradise wouldn’t be complete without a lighted golf hole with 85-yard and 45-yard tee boxes, along with two sand traps. A bucket of beers and good friends make for a very unique golf outing!

Lights along the edge of the arbor begin to show up as the daylight dims.

Lighting guides visitors along the path and makes the steps safe to walk at night.

The seating area looks all the more alluring as it glows in the dim of evening.

Lights shining up into trees emphasize their beautiful form.

As the night gets darker, the lights get more beautiful.

Fire and lights make for a wonderful evening gathering.

Golf at night!

If you want to see more of John’s garden (during the day and night), check out his Instagram: @johnmatthewsraleigh

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Finished Reading

Born Again Dirt by Noah Sanders

An Agricultural Testament by Sir Albert Howard

Landrace Gardening by Joseph Lofthouse

The Contagion Myth by Thomas S. Cowan and Sally Fallon Morrell

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 1 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 2 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 3 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 4 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

A Soil Owner’s Manual by Jon Stika

Comeback Farms by Greg Judy

Dirt to Soil by Gabe Brown

Keeping Bees with a Smile by Fedor Lazutin and Leo Sharashkin

Balanced Beekeeping I: Building a Top Bar Hive by Philip Chandler

Balanced Beekeeping II: Managing the Top Bar Hive by Philip Chandler

Handling Sin by Michael Malone

The Rooted Life by Justin Rhodes

The Complete Guide to Restoring Your Soil by Dale Strickler

Soil Science for Gardeners by Robert Pavlis

The Wheel of Health: The Sources of Long Life and Health Among the Hunza by Dr. G. T. Wrench

For the Love of the Soil by Nicole Masters

The Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Book 5 of 8) by Edward Gibbon

Three Men in a Boat (To Say Nothing of the Dog) by Jerome K. Jerome

Metabolical by Dr. Robert Lustig

Satyricon by Gaius Petronius

Skin in the Game by Nassim Taleb

The History of Early Rome by Livy

Dissolving Illustions by Suzanne Humphries and Roman Bystrianyk

Goodbye, Things: The New Japanese Minimalism by Fumio Sasaki

Less: A Visual Guide to Minimalism by Rachel Aust

Minimalism: Live a Meaningful Life by Joshua Fields Milburn and Ryan Nicodemus

De Agricultura by Cato

Don’t Stop the Carnival by Herman Wouk

The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Katz

Tom Jones by Henry Fielding

Coppice Agrofrestry by Mark Krawczyk

Eating on the Wild Side by Jo Robinson

The More of Less: Finding the Life You Want Under Everything You Own by Joshua Becker

Aeneid by Virgil

Behold Your Mother: A Biblical and Historical Defense of the Marian Doctrines by Tim Staples

Becoming Orthodox by Peter Gilquist

The Holy Bible (NKJV) by God

Started then Ditched

Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens


The Barefoot Beekeeper by Philip Chandler


Holistic Management, Third Edition: A Commonsense Revolution to Restore Our Environment by Allan Savory

1. Getting Started

First, choose a pot slightly larger than the current one, and make sure it has drainage holes.

These succulents thrive in well-draining soil, so selecting a pot with proper drainage is essential. If you’re planting in the ground, choose an area with full sun and fast soil drainage.

• The roots may appear from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.
• The plant may become top-heavy and begin to lean over.
• New leaves may be smaller and less vibrant in color.

If you notice any of these signs, it may be time to repot your aloe into a larger container!

The best time to transplant is during the spring season. This is when the plant is actively growing and can better adjust to its new environment – although, where I live in Southern California, these succulents can be transplanted at any time!

If your aloe is flowering and you want to transplant it, just cut the flower stalk before you start the process.

If you notice new plants, or pups, growing around your succulent, they can easily be divided to start new plants.

3. Transplanting or Repotting

Position the plant in the new pot, ensuring it’s at the same depth as in the previous pot. Add some soil around the roots and gently press it down.

If planting in the ground, dig a hole double the size of the root system and then place it in that space, filling in any extra space with the soil you dug up.

Give the plant a deep drink of water to help it settle into its new home.

Remember to choose a new in-ground location or place your newly potted plant in a bright spot with plenty of light. Aloes need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive.

Lastly, wait for the soil to dry out completely before watering again. Overwatering can harm these succulents by creating conditions perfect for root rot.

You can learn more about how to grow and care for aloe vera by reading our guide.

Today we’re in Nella’s Michigan garden.

Usually my spring garden is my favorite. It’s a lovely welcome to the new gardening season after a cold, gray Michigan winter. This year I was rewarded with lush, full, late summer blooms after a summer so dry that we only cut the lawn once in the month of June. I garden in a space that was totally shaded by overgrown trees when I first bought the house. Twenty-seven years and 15 fewer trees later, I have mostly partial shade. I retired last June, so this was my first gardening season when I could wander out to the garden at sunrise and putz around until mid-morning most days.

I went crazy on pots this year! The final count on August 1 , front and back, was 26! That’s a record for me. Admittedly, some I bought specifically to fill in gaps before this year’s neighborhood garden walk. Some are my every-year standards. Some I bought at the end of the season because I couldn’t resist the sale price. Would I do it again? Maybe, but not all at once. It was a gradual thing as I saw a need for a pot or I had plants but no spot for them in a bed.

Late summer splendor includes coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea, Zones 4–9), tall phlox (Phlox paniculata, Zones 4–8), and black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida, Zones 3–9).

Bold leaves of a castor bean (Ricinus communis, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) with pink turtlehead (Chelone obliqua, Zones 5–9)

This container is filled with shade-loving plants including Caladium (Zones 8–10 or as a tender bulb) and trailing creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, Zones 3–9).

Panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata, Zones 3–8) blooms blushing pink as they age.

Pan, the god of fields, groves, and wooded glens, greets Nella each morning when she opens the curtains. This year he has a crown of variegated fern.

Bright pink begonias (Begonia hybrid, Zones 8–11 or as an annual) line the edge of a bed full of shade-loving perennials.

Hosta and hydrangea spill over onto a stone path.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Getting dressed for a day of gardening often involves throwing on your rattiest old clothes and hiking up a pair of white socks to keep the ticks at bay—it is rarely a time for considered dressing. However, as any pro will tell you, the right gear can make a day of pruning or weeding go more smoothly, and if it happens to be stylish, all the better.

Recently, we reached out to some trusted garden pros for their favorite garden accessories. Here are their picks:

The Ultimate Chore Coat

The Chic Wide Brimmed Hat

The Fancy French Toolbelt

The Warm Winter Boot

The Plant-Dyed Scarf

I ate it raw, lots of it, every single day. I shredded the stuff and put it on toast. My classmates complained that the smell was seeping from my pores.

Finally, after a year of this obsession, I ate too much and it made me get sick.

That brought a firm halt to my overeating of the bulb. But I still love the stuff, and love to include it in my cooking.

Garlic is an essential ingredient in some of my favorite foods: fresh salsa, soups, Italian dishes, Indian cuisine (garlic naan, anyone?), and so much more.

One winter at my home in Alaska, I finally decided to start some indoors in a container, starting with organic bulbs I bought at the store.

We cover how to do this specific method of propagation in another article. But in this one, I’ll focus on teaching you everything you need to know to grow it in containers – whether indoors or out.

Here’s what’s coming in this article:

All About Garlic

To get a detailed overview on the history of garlic, check out our article on how to grow it in your outdoor garden.

We’ll just do a quick rundown here.

Garlic is part of the Allium genus, a member of the Amaryllidaceae family. Other plants in this genus include onions, leeks, chives, scallions, and shallots.

There are two main types that gardeners grow: A. sativum, or “softneck” garlic, which has a floppy stalk, or A. sativum var. ophioscorodon, the hardneck variety.

Most of the time, what you see at the grocery store is A. sativum. It’s easy to grow and the mature bulbs have a long shelf life when cured, or dried.

The hardneck variety, A. sativum var. ophioscorodon, grows a stiff stalk that remains upright and doesn’t flop over when it’s ready to harvest.

This subspecies grows edible scapes – flower stems and blooms – as well as bulbs.

You won’t find garlic as we know it in the wild. It’s been cultivated for thousands of years and used as a medicinal plant in many regions of the world, helping people fight everything from toothaches to cardiovascular disease to high cholesterol.

Here’s how to grow this tasty, aromatic addition to your cuisine at home in containers.

Why Choose Container Growing

You might be wondering why you should grow garlic in containers at all.

Maybe you’re like me, and you simply like growing things in containers. You can easily move the pots around, grow garlic at any time of the year, and save space if you have a small home or garden.

The long growing season that this plant requires before it’s ready for harvest means there’s a lot of time for it to be attacked by various pests and disease when grown in the garden.

It’s also easier to control the environment where your plant is growing – you can easily keep the soil loose and moist, being careful not to make it too wet. You can even move your container into or out of the sun or rain.

Plus, you won’t have to worry about weeds, or wonder how to keep the ground from freezing and shifting the position of your bulbs during the winter.

By keeping a close eye on your little crop, you’ll have a greater chance of enjoying your own fresh, homegrown A. sativum in your cooking.

Picking the Right Container

To start, you’ll need a container that’s at least eight to 10 inches deep. This will give the roots enough space to grow comfortably.

Cloves must be planted four to six inches apart, so keep that in mind when you’re selecting your container.

This makes the most sense if you want to be able to move the containers around, or if you are growing in a smaller space.

If you like the look and feel of a terra cotta planter, that will work well, although be aware that terra cotta tend to dry out more quickly than other materials.

Or, choose a durable plastic pot for something lighter.

If you live in a hot climate, choose a light-colored pot as black ones, when placed in the sun, can cause the soil to overheat.

Either way, make sure the container has drainage holes, and add a little gravel to the bottom to allow water to drain away from the roots.

See our guide to choosing containers for an overview of the different materials they are made from.

Preparing Your Container

Fill your container with either of these:

• Loose potting soil amended with some 10-10-10 NPK fertilizer, according to the instructions on the package.
• Garden soil, filtered with wire mesh or a sieve to remove clumps and pebbles, and amended 50-50 with well-rotted manure or compost.

A. sativum likes loose, well-draining, rich, and loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5.

Check your garden soil with a soil test to find out if it has the right pH for your cloves.

And make sure you don’t use soil that’s recently been planted with other Alliums. This will help prevent pests and fungi that are attracted to Alliums from thriving near your newly planted cloves. Some of the fungi can live in the soil even after the previous Allium plants are long gone.

How to Grow

The most common way to propagate garlic is to plant cloves from an existing bulb.

You can also start garlic from bulbils, the tiny micro-cloves that grow out of the scapes and flowers. You can grow these just as you would regular cloves, but you can expect them to take up to two years to mature, so you’ll need to be patient.

You can get seed cloves – regular-sized ones, not bulbils – from a garden center or nursery. Some will even be prechilled, or “pre-vernalized,” allowing you to plant right away without having to worry about placing the bulbs in the refrigerator first.

Or, you can do what I did: buy organic bulbs from the grocery store and propagate them at home.

The reason you need organic bulbs in this case is that conventionally grown grocery store garlic is sometimes sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent it from sprouting.

You want yours to sprout. So go organic!

Keep in mind that you’ll usually only find softneck varieties at the grocery store. These thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 and up.

Hardneck varieties boast more complex flavors than softneck varieties, and usually produce larger cloves – which means less peeling for you to do before cooking.

They’re also ideal for gardeners in Zones 7 and below, because these varieties need at least six to eight weeks of cold exposure below 45°F before they will sprout.

The best way to achieve this is to plant in the fall, and let the bulbs overwinter by placing your container outdoors.

If you don’t live in an area with temperatures that dip to 45°F or below during the winter, you can still plant hardneck varieties.

But you’ll have to put the cloves in a paper bag and keep them in your refrigerator’s crisper drawer for eight to twelve weeks to cold stratify before planting.

The best time to plant garlic in most regions is in September or October – just before winter comes around, at least two weeks before your first hard frost.

But since you’re growing in containers, you can plant at any time, especially if you choose to purchase prechilled bulbs that are ready to go.

Grocery store bulbs or those that have not been prechilled need to go into a cool basement or stay outside in cold temperatures for eight to twelve weeks before coming back into the sun and warmth for growing.

While softneck varieties can benefit from some chill time, they will grow happily without it. You can plant them at any time and grow them indoors if it gets too hot outside (above 90°F) or too cold.

I planted mine indoors during the month of February. I plan to put my container outdoors here in Alaska in the next week or so, as the weather is steadily rising toward 45°F, so that they can benefit from cool growing conditions.

It’ll be ready for harvest in July.

We’ll talk more about when to harvest in a moment. But first, let’s find out how to plant your cloves!

For spring-planted softneck types, you can either grow the plants indoors, or place them outdoors in a sunny spot as long as the air temperature is consistently above 45°F.

This is because softneck types planted in the spring have a much shorter growing season – usually around 90 days from planting to harvest, depending on the cultivar you choose. You’ll get smaller cloves, but you’ll get them sooner.

For fall-planted softneck or hardneck varieties, put your container outdoors as soon you’ve planted it, in a sunny location.

And keep in mind that garlic needs at least six to eight hours of sun daily.

In Zones 7 and above, softneck types will grow all through the winter and into the spring and summer, producing hearty, aromatic bulbs about 240 days after planting.

Hardnecks will go dormant during the winter months, and then begin their growth in the spring.

Both varieties require about six to nine months to reach maturity, depending on growing conditions and the particular cultivar you have selected.

Container Care

Garlic is easy to care for once it’s planted. Make sure the location where you’ve placed your containers consistently has enough sun, move them if necessary, and give them 1/2 to 1 inch of water every week.

To check the moisture level, dig down in the soil next to your garlic, about two inches away from the plant and four inches down. If the soil is moist down there, you don’t need to water quite yet. But if it’s dry, go ahead and give it a deep watering.

If it rains heavily, avoid watering your plants for at least a week – garlic hates wet feet, and this can cause them to rot.

Do you live in an area that gets waterlogged all the time? (I’m looking at you, Seattle!)

This is where you’ll benefit from container growing: simply move your containers to a sheltered area or even indoors after a day or two of rain.

Use a grow light in place of direct sunshine while they’re indoors if needed, and then pop them back outside once the rain stops.

You can stop watering hardneck varieties after the first frost. While the water may not freeze inside your container, it’ll be cold enough to start the vernalization process, during which time the plant does not need water.

Go ahead and cover your plants with an inch of mulch, if you wish, to keep moisture locked in.

You can resume watering in the spring, once your last frost is two weeks behind you.

This is also a good time to mix in a granular 5-10-10 NPK fertilizer over the soil, according to package instructions.

You may also want to add a bit more mulch, especially one with a lighter color (like straw) to reflect heat away from your plant as summer creeps in.

Keeping the soil cool is an important factor in the success of your developing bulbs.

The plant will start to form bulbs underground once the soil starts to warm up in the spring, but if the soil gets too hot, bulbs can stop growing before their time, leaving you with small or underdeveloped bulbs.

Managing Pests and Disease

Since you’re growing your garlic in containers, you won’t have to worry much about many pests or diseases coming up from existing soil or neighboring plants.

Plus, this plant already does a decent job of deterring hungry critters with its pungent scent.

If you do think your garlic is being attacked, we have a guide to identify the pest and mitigate the damage and a seperate guide to identify and control various garlic diseases.

Downy mildew can sometimes be a problem in humid environments, or if plants are growing too close together. This presents as white patches on the leaves.

Keep an eye out for basal rot as well, which starts with yellowing around the base of the plant, and progresses to the leaves dying back and going brown.

There’s not much you can do if your plant reaches this stage besides removing the infected bulb and as much of the surrounding soil as possible to keep it from spreading.

If all of the plants in a container are infected, toss plants and the dirt, and disinfect the pot. Add new soil to the pot and try again.

The good news is that if you are using soil that hasn’t grown an Allium crop before, the chances of basal rot infecting your plant are reduced. This fungus can thrive in soil for years, which is why it’s so important to start with clean, fresh soil.

Make sure your soil is well draining, and don’t overwater your plants or let outdoor plants become oversaturated with rain.

Harvesting

In the summer, likely around July or August, when the tops of your plants start to turn yellow, stop watering them.

After about two weeks, about a third of the leaves should be yellow and floppy.

Each plant may mature at a slightly different time, so don’t feel pressured to harvest them all at once.

Wait until each shows the telltale signs of readiness – the yellowing of one-third of the leaves. This is the same whether you’re growing hardneck or softneck types.

To harvest, gently dig down until your hand hits the bulb and gently remove it. Resist pulling the leaves, as this can cause the stem to snap, separating the bulb from the leaves – you need those leaves and stalks to remain intact for the next step: curing.

Get more tips on harvesting your garlic here.

Curing Garlic

If you want to use your fresh harvest straight away, just wash off the dirt and peel it to reveal the plump cloves. Fresh garlic usually has a milder, more subtle flavor than bulbs that have been cured.

In order to store your container-grown garlic, you need to cure it, or dry it out completely.

To do this, wait to wash your harvest. There’s no need to wash any of the dirt off the plant with water prior to storage.

The point of curing is to allow all of the moisture to drain out of the leaves and stalk, and into the cloves themselves. Brushing some of the dirt off by hand or with a dry rag is fine, and picking on a dry day is recommended. But wait to wash your garlic with water until just before you’re ready to use it.

This helps the cloves store for longer, and keeps them from falling prey to fungi, mold, and viruses while they patiently wait for you to eat them.

To cure, hang the plants somewhere dry and shady, like a covered patio, or in an indoor room with good ventilation.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

Garlic is one of gardening’s greatest gifts to humankind, and it will never taste better than when you grow it yourself in your container garden.

There are so many things that you can do with your container-grown garlic. Here are a few of my favorite suggestions:

Crush it and saute it with onions and celery for a flavorful soup base.

Roast it and toss it into your sourdough when you’re baking bread.

Now let’s take a look at 11 things to do in the garden before winter sets in.

1. Dig Up or Mulch Root Vegetables

Like many cool season crops, root vegetables can take a frost or two and still be harvested in good condition.

In fact, most root crops – such as beets, carrots, celeriac, parsnips, and rutabagas (but not potatoes) – sweeten in flavor when left in the ground to mature at temperatures close to freezing.

And if you have well-draining soil that doesn’t freeze, many can be left in situ over winter, to be dug and enjoyed as needed.

To make digging root crops easier and protect against hard frosts, cover vegetable beds with a thick, 6-inch layer of dry mulch. Cardboard, fern fronds, evergreen boughs, or clean straw all provide good insulation that’s easily moved when you want to access your veggies.

In regions where the ground freezes, dig up root vegetables, brush off the dirt, and store them in a cool, dark location before the ground freezes.

2. Cover Frost Tender Plants

During the coldest months, or when expecting a hard frost, tender perennials, tropicals, and succulents will benefit from having their leaves and stems protected.

This is also true for perennials that might suffer damage to crowns and roots such as clematis, grape vines, and roses.

Use any material that provides lightweight, breathable insulation. Blankets, burlap, evergreen boughs, fern fronds, floating row covers, landscape fabric, and straw stooks are all suitable to wrap plants. (Stooks are upright bundles of grain or grass stems that resemble a tepee.)

To protect tender crowns, use a dry mulch of shredded bark, evergreen boughs, fern fronds, sawdust, or straw to cover each crown/the crown of each plant.

Pile and stack the mulch over the crown and up the base of the stems, covering the first 12 to 18 inches or the entire height of shorter plants.

The crown is the base of the plant. The area where the stems and roots meet, and energy and nutrients are transferred from the roots to the topside for growth. Many plants have their crowns at ground level, exposing them to winter cold.

Remove covers once all danger of frost has passed.

3. Divide Perennials

After your perennials have finished flowering, they’ll enjoy some attention before going dormant for the season.

Clean plants of broken or dead stems and cut back as needed – the amount depends on the plant, but a general rule of thumb is to remove 1/4 to 1/3 of the top growth.

Divide plants into quarters, thirds, or halves and trim excess root growth.

Prepare and plant new divisions as outlined in our guide to dividing perennials.

Store in ventilated containers lined with loose material such as crumpled newspaper, peat moss, sawdust, or vermiculite.

Label containers with the contents and date, then store in a cool, dark location, ready for planting out in spring.

In areas where temperatures don’t fall below freezing, finish planting bulbs by early November to allow roots enough time to form before winter sets in.

The rule of thumb for bulbs is to plant at a depth 3 times the bulb’s height. So, a 2-inch bulb gets planted to a depth of 6 inches.

For any type of bulb, position with the large or flat end down in the planting hole and the peaked or narrow end on top. For bulbs with no discernible top or bottom, like Grecian windflowers, plant on their side to facilitate easy growth.

You can read more about growing garlic here.

8. Prepare Beds for Winter for an Easier Job in Spring

To prepare flower and vegetable beds for winter, remove all dead or finished plant material including rotting fruit, vegetables, and weeds.

Till the soil lightly to expose any unfriendly larvae looking to overwinter, such as Japanese beetles.

Add and dig in a 2-inch layer of well-rotted compost or manure.

Test soil levels to determine if additional nutrients are required and amend as needed.

Autumn is also a good time to work on creating new beds or expanding garden space. For some fresh ideas, check out our guides to growing square foot gardens and making your own DIY raised beds.

After the ground freezes, add a top dressing of mulch to clumps of herbs and perennials.

9. Prune and Mulch Berry Patches

Strawberry plants can tolerate light frosts, but they have shallow roots and are easily damaged by hard frosts and cold spells.

Protect plants with a 3- to 5-inch layer of clean straw, finely shredded leaves, or pine boughs. Apply after the first heavy frost but before the ground freezes. Mulching too early can smother plants, and if applied too late, plants can suffer cold damage.

Protecting raspberries and blackberries against the cold depends on the type of cane you’re growing.

After cutting back the 1-year-old canes, gently bend them to the ground and mound 3 to 4 inches of soil or mulch over top of the canes to protect against freezing temperatures and drying winds. Slowly remove the soil after the danger of frost has passed in the spring.

Primocane raspberry plants produce a summer crop on two-year-old canes and a fall crop on new ones. To enjoy both crops, prune canes and cover with soil in autumn as for floricanes.

However, in regions with extremely cold winters, an easier option with primocanes is to cut all the canes back to the ground in fall. This means you’ll lose your summer berry crop, but you’ll have a bigger and better fall crop – and without the bother of providing winter protection.

Blackberries also set fruit on 2-year-old floricanes and come in two growth forms, erect and trailing – erect plants are hardier and more tolerant of cold weather.

For erect varieties, prune most of the 1-year-old canes to the ground in late autumn, leaving 3 or 4 of the most robust canes of each plant in place. Cut the remaining canes back to 18 to 24 inches and provide a 3 to 4-inch layer of mulch to protect the crowns.

Trailing varieties are pruned in the same way as for primocane raspberries. Cut canes back to 3 feet, then gently lay them down on the ground and cover with a thick 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch.

10. Tend the Compost Pile

To keep compost viable during the cold months, microbes within the compost piles need to be kept active – which means temperatures must be maintained above freezing.

For regions with the occasional cold spell, turn and water active compost piles one last time before hard frosts arrive. Then pile on layers of insulating material such as cardboard, evergreen boughs, sawdust, or straw to keep the core from freezing.

In areas with prolonged freezes, harvest mature compost in fall and use it as a nutrient-rich garden mulch. Continue adding kitchen scraps to your pile over winter – they’ll freeze until spring, when you can begin layering materials again.

In milder regions, moisture control is often more important than insulation. Cold, soaking rain can waterlog compost, washing away nutrients and important microbes.

To protect from drenching rains, first pile compost into a heap. Or, for bins, upend two or three pots in a row in the center. Then drape with a tarp, spreading it past the edges. Peg or secure the tarp in place.

Extend the life of your garden tools with some end of season maintenance.

Use a stiff wire brush to brush off dirt from metal utensils. Rub away any rust spots with sandpaper.

Rub metal parts with an oiled rag to condition steel and prevent rust. Follow with a dry rag to remove excess and polish if needed.

Sharpen the edges of garden forks, hoes, scythes, shears, shovels, and spades.

Oil hinges, pins, wheels, or any moving parts on tools such as augers, clippers, pruners, or wheelbarrows.

Make a note of any tools that need to be replaced, and add them to your wish list.

Once clean, store in a dry location.

While you might not see them too frequently, beets definitely have their fair share of pests that will eagerly make a meal of them if conditions are right.

Here are some of the most common garden foes you might face:

I know, this list looks pretty long. But don’t let that discourage you. While there are lots of bugs that may bother beets, in my experience, you won’t have to deal with them that often.

That said, if you do find yourself troubled by a creepy-crawly, this guide will help you identify it and send it packing.

1. Aphids

There are dozens of different species of aphids from the genera Myzus and Aphis that love to munch on beet plants. Green peach, melon, potato, cowpea, and bean aphids are all common.

Aphids range in color from nearly black to nearly white, with some that are tan, orange, green, or red. All are tiny and pear-shaped. Some have wings, and others don’t.

They suck on the sap of plants, leaving behind a sticky residue called honeydew, which also attracts ants and creates the perfect environment for fungi. A large infestation may cause leaves to curl and yellow. They can stunt leaf and root growth as well.

Blast the plant with a strong spray of water from the hose as your first line of attack. Sometimes you can knock them loose, and they won’t return.

You should also encourage beneficial insects like parasitic wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, soldier beetles, and syrphid flies to visit your garden.

Still have a problem? Dusting plants with flour or wiping the stems and undersides of leaves with canola oil can help.

If you decide to go the chemical route, know that insecticides can kill good insects as well as the bad ones.

Our guide to dispelling aphids can help you figure out the best options for you and your garden.

2. Beet Cyst Nematodes

Beet cyst nematodes (Heterodera schachtii) are soil-borne, microscopic organisms that can cause leaves and roots to be stunted and malformed.

On top of that, you may see older leaves wilt and turn yellow.

If you dig up your plants and notice that the roots have yellowish cysts, along with a few of these other symptoms, you likely have a nematode problem.

If you do, there isn’t anything you can do about your existing crop, but you can prevent issues in the future.

First, dig up your soil to two feet deep and turn it over so that it’s exposed to the sun. Let it sit for a week. Do this a few times before planting there again. Solarization of the soil helps to kill off the nematodes.

Next, rotate your crops so that nothing in the Beta genus grows there for three years.

3. Beet Leafhoppers

The beet leafhopper (Circulifer tenellus) is a tiny pale green or tan bug with darker, blotchy markings. It’s about a tenth of an inch in length, with translucent wings.

The adults will feed on the leaves, but that’s not the most pressing concern if you have these in your garden.

They spread beet curly top virus, an often devastating disease that causes plants to turn yellow and stop growing.

They’re most common in western parts of the US and Canada, and throughout Mexico.

Make sure to remove any weeds or debris from your garden in the fall at the end of the season, and in spring before planting. Then, use floating row covers while your beets are growing.

Sadly, you’ll need to pull any plants that are infected with the virus. They won’t recover from this infection and their continued presence in the garden can contribute to further spread of the disease.

4. Beet Webworms

Beet webworms are the larvae of moths in the Crambidae family.

There are several different species that may attack your plants, including the spotted beet moth webworm (Hymenia perspectalis), the Southern beet moth webworm (Herpetogramma bipunctalis), Hawaiian beet moth webworms (Spoladea recurvalis), the sugar moth webworm (Loxostege sticticalis), alfalfa moth webworms (Loxostege cereralis), and the garden moth webworm (Achyra rantalis).

All of them live primarily in warmer regions, like the southern and western US, though they can travel as far north as the southern Canadian border in the summer months.

The worms chew through leaves, and they can skeletonize a plant rapidly if there are enough of them.

They also curl or bind leaves together, and use silky threads to make a cozy spot to hide. You might come outside one day and discover that your plants are covered in these nest-like webs.

However, this isn’t a nest that the worms create in order to pupate. They do that underground, where they form cocoons. Instead, these are homes where they shelter in between meals. If you look closely, you’ll likely be able to spot them hanging out inside.

Because the leaves are all bound up or chewed through, not only can this slow growth, but you won’t be able to enjoy all those tasty beet leaves if you have an infestation.

The webworms vary in appearance, with some being olive green while others are yellow or bright green, sometimes with black stripes. They range from just under an inch long to an inch and a half long.

Since they all look different, the easiest way to identify them (besides looking for the telltale curled leaves) is to disturb them.

If you try to touch one of the worms, it’ll drop from the plant by a silky thread and hang in the air.

You can also keep an eye out for tan or brown moths flitting around your vegetable patch, and put out yellow sticky traps to nab one or two so you can use the adult moth to identify which insect you’re dealing with.

Fortunately, by the time the larvae hatch and mature, beets have usually had a chance to grow enough that the roots will still be fully formed, despite any damage to the foliage above ground.

Root damage is typically rare, but if you have a severe infestation that has completely defoliated your plants, you could lose your crop.

If you don’t want to lose any beet leaves, or if you have plants that are being defoliated rapidly enough that you’re worried this could stunt root growth, you can use Bacillus thuringiensis to control them.

Just be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions and guidelines when you apply it.

6. Cutworms

Cutworms are the larvae of flying night moths in the Noctuidae family. They chew through the base of beet foliage at the soil level, killing the plants.

They range in color from light gray to bright green or dark brown, and if you look closely, their skin appears to have a greasy texture. All are about an inch or two long and they have no hair, unlike some other types of caterpillars.

If you disturb them, they curl up into a protective little “C” shape.

They can be hard to spot because they only come out at night. Most often, what happens is you come outside to check your garden in the morning, only to discover your beet foliage lying dead on the ground.

Some cutworms feed on young leaves and stems, in addition to cutting the stems down.

Because they can kill an entire plant overnight, you don’t want to mess around if you find you have these in the garden.

As a preventative step, start by clearing the planting area of any weeds before you sow your seeds. Throughout the growing season, be sure to keep any weeds at least three feet away from your beets.

At planting time, you should also leave a three-foot-wide bare patch of soil in between your beets and the lawn. This is important if you are growing your beets in the ground, or in raised beds that are open on the bottom, in an area near where grass is growing.

Cutworms like to hide in grass and weeds, but they won’t travel across a wide expanse of open ground that leaves them exposed.

Next, the most effective method to keep them away from your beets is also surprisingly simple: You can use cardboard or a plastic container to create a barrier. I like to use waxed milk cartons or plastic water bottles because they won’t disintegrate in the rain.

Cut the top and bottom off, leaving about four inches of the container length intact. Sink the container an inch deep into the soil, and plant your seedling or seeds in the center.

Normally, we don’t recommend transplanting beets since they’re root vegetables. But in this case, it’s worth the effort of starting seedlings in containers since the alternative could be losing your plants entirely.

To make things easier on your beet transplants, start them indoors in biodegradable pots. Then, carefully cut out the bottom of the pot without disturbing the developing root, and put the whole thing in the ground, with a protective collar around it.

You can also scatter diatomaceous earth around your plants as an added barrier, but you’ll need to reapply it frequently, after periods of rain or after watering.

Learn more about cutworm infestation prevention and control here.

7. European Corn Borers

Don’t let the name fool you – Ostrinia nubilalis loves to eat far more than just corn. And these pests don’t just live in Europe.

These insects first made their way to the US from Europe in the early 1900s, and now thrive everywhere east of the Rockies, from Canada down to Mexico. Many western states have a quarantine in place to try to limit their spread.

Fortunately, they only pupate on corn plants in the spring, so if you don’t have any corn growing in or near your garden, you likely won’t have to worry about them.

The larvae, which do all the damage, are pinkish-brown with black dots on their bodies and brown heads. The adults are inch-long yellow or brown moths.

While the larvae will bore into above-ground veggies like corn and peppers, they only eat the foliage on beets.

Handpick these little pests if you spot them. The bad news is that there are usually two or three generations each year, so you need to be diligent.

Lacewings and ladybugs love to munch on these pests, so do your best to encourage these beneficial insects to take up residence in your garden.

Tiny Trichogramma wasps will parasite the eggs, and you can purchase and release these garden helpers to keep corn borers under control.

You can buy parasitic wasps from Arbico Organics.

If all that fails, break out the Bacillus thuringiensis.

8. Flea Beetles

Flea beetles get their name because they jump around like fleas when you disturb them. But instead of nibbling on your furry friends, they prefer to nibble on the leaves of a range of plants, leaving behind tiny shotholes.

While this may not sound too bad, they can damage your beets enough that the roots will be stunted, or they can even kill your plants. Seedlings are particularly vulnerable.

There are dozens of varieties of these little bugs, but the damage they cause and available control methods are the same for all types.

Floating row covers are by far your most reliable and effective option. Put them in place when you plant your crops, and leave them there until you’re ready to harvest.

Trap crops are also effective. Plant radishes, which are a favorite of flea beetles, a few feet away from your beets to draw them away.

In addition to this, measure out about a foot from the base of your beet plants and scatter diatomaceous earth around them in a ring, creating a 12-inch “moat” around your beets.

If you have several plants, top the soil between them with diatomaceous earth and extend the DE ring a foot beyond the edge of the plants. The goal here is to create a barrier that the beetles can’t jump over, and that will kill them if they cross.

You’ll need to reapply it every few days or after rain.

Read more about flea beetles and how to eradicate them.

9. Leafminers

Leafminers are the larvae of flies from the genera Liriomyza and Pegomya. These little pests chew tunnels in winding, maze-like patterns through the leaves of beet plants.

Finding a few of them isn’t really a problem. You can just crush the tunnel pathways that you find with your fingers to kill the little bugs, or remove damaged leaves.

But if they get into your plants early in the season when young seedlings are the most vulnerable, or if you have a lot of them, this can reduce the size of your beetroots and cause leaves to drop.

The really bad news? There can be up to 10 generations of these bugs each year.

Floating row covers are an effective way to keep the flies from landing on your plants and laying eggs, but you’ll need to get your covers on right when you put your seeds or seedlings in the ground, and keep them there until you harvest.

A weekly application of neem oil can also help keep them under control. Follow the manufacturer’s dosage and mixing recommendations.

Read more about controlling leafminers here.

11. Seed Corn Maggots

The seed corn maggot (Delia platura) attacks numerous crops that grow underground. These pests consume germinating seeds and can totally destroy a crop before it even gets started.

Seed corn maggots are about a quarter-inch long and whitish-yellow. The maggots overwinter in the soil and emerge in the spring to eat and reproduce. There can be up to four generations per year.

If your seedlings don’t emerge, dig the seeds up and look to see if there are maggots inside. Since the pest is larger than a beet seed, they’ll be obvious. You’ll probably see them with their heads burrowed into the seed and the rest of their body sticking out.

This is the best way to confirm that you have this pest and your seeds didn’t fail to emerge because of damping off or some other problem.

If you do have them, you can avoid problems with these pests by starting new seedlings indoors, and transplanting them outdoors when the plants are a few inches tall.

12. Spider Mites

Spider mites (Tetranychus spp.) are an extremely common and hard-to-spot pest.

While numerous species of mites will attack beets, you’ll most commonly see strawberry spider mites and two-spotted spider mites.

These spider relatives weave webs, which are the first things you might notice if you have an infestation.

Regardless of the variety of mite that pays your crop a visit, they all do the same type of damage. They eat from the undersides of leaves, which can cause white or yellow spots on beet foliage. This damage can eventually merge and cause leaves to drop.

Spider mites look for stressed plants, particularly those growing in hot, dry conditions. They use their needlelike mouthparts to suck the fluid out of plants.

Ladybugs, thrips, pirate bugs, and lacewings all eat spider mites. If you find an infestation, this can be a sign that their natural enemies have been eliminated from the garden, often through the use of chemical pesticides.

If you keep your beets well watered and don’t use pesticides in your garden, this will go a long way toward keeping spider mites away.

If you spot a few webs on your plants, spray them off with a strong blast of cold water. Pay attention in particular to the undersides of leaves, where mites like to hang out.

If you need something a little stronger, try a weekly application of neem oil.

13. Vegetable Maggots

Vegetable maggots (Delia radicum) feed on the roots of plants – which is bad news if you were planning to eat those roots!

Like its cousin the seed corn maggot, this type overwinters in the soil and emerges in the spring to eat. It looks almost identical to the seed corn maggot as well, about a quarter-inch long and cream-colored.

These maggots chew tunnels into the surface of beetroots and completely devour the finer root hairs. Above ground, plants will look stunted, wilted, and weak. Leaves may turn yellow or mottled, or they may have purpling on the edges.

Not only do they damage plants, these pests can also introduce diseases.

You can place yellow sticky traps at ground level in the garden to attract the maggots. Catching a few will make it easier to identify them.

Try placing traps a few inches above the ground to catch a few adults as well. Known as cabbage or root flies, they are about a quarter-inch long, with gray-brown coloring.

To prevent an infestation, wait to transplant beets into the garden until late May to avoid the emerging maggots. If you don’t live in a cool enough climate to do this, use floating row covers in the fall and spring to prevent the adult flies from landing and laying eggs.

In the winter, till over the soil to expose the overwintering pupae.

Crop rotation will also help you to keep vegetable maggots under control. Don’t plant beets where any other beet or brassica plants have been grown for at least four years after you discover an infestation.

Growing winter squash used to intimidate me, but after successfully growing it for several seasons, it has become one of my favorite crops. I’m sharing my best tips for successfully growing winter squash, even in hot climates like the low desert of Arizona. In this article, you will learn how to grow winter squash, which varieties to choose, how to care for your plants, and the best times to harvest.

---

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

---

A little bit about winter squash

Have you ever what the differences are between winter squash and summer squash? 

• Unlike summer squash, winter squash has a thick rind that allows it to be stored for longer periods of time. Many types of winter squash can last well into the winter months. 
• Another distinguishing feature of winter squash is its separate seed cavity, similar to a pumpkin, one of the most well-known types of winter squash. In contrast, summer squash has seeds distributed throughout the fruit. 
• Additionally, the flavor of winter squash improves as it grows and cures, while summer squash is best eaten when harvested young. 
• Although growing winter squash is similar to growing summer squash, more attention is needed. Winter squash requires more space, time, water, and food to grow well.

---

9 Tips for How to Grow Winter Squash

---

1. Give winter squash plenty of time to grow

Winter squash needs three months or more of frost-free temperatures. Both the fruit and the vines are frost sensitive. Plant seeds directly in the garden 1-2 weeks after the last frost.

Ensure the soil is warm before planting the seeds – about 65°F (18.3°C) or higher, generally, at least two weeks after your last spring frost date.

• Plant the seeds ½ in (1.27cm) deep and at least 8 in (20cm) apart, then water them daily until they sprout. 
• Winter squash may require a long growing season (90+ days) depending on the variety. If you have a short growing season or would rather start seeds indoors. Plant seeds in 4 in(10cm) pots 2-4 weeks before your outside planting date. Do not let seedlings get pot-bound; transplant very carefully once the soil warms up. 
• Read this post for more information about starting seeds indoors. 

In the low desert of Arizona, there are two planting widows for winter squash. Plant winter squash early in the spring, from mid-February to March, and again when the monsoon moisture comes in July and August. 

Established fruit on winter squash will ripen in temperatures up to 100℉, but pollen often won’t be viable to produce new fruit.  Choose smaller types and short-season varieties for the best chance of success when growing winter squash in Arizona.

---

A note about how to grow pumpkins in Arizona: 

Regular-sized pumpkins may be planted in either February or March or again when the monsoon moisture comes in July and early August.  

Pumpkins planted in February or March should be ready to harvest in May or June. Pumpkins planted in July and early August should be ready by October or November. 

If you are trying to grow super-sized pumpkins in Arizona, plant the seeds in early January.  Provide protection from frost, mulch well,  fertilize regularly, and provide shade throughout the summer. 

Looking for pumpkin seeds?

---

2. Plant different varieties depending on your situation

There are dozens of varieties of winter squash; choose the best one for your location, taste, and garden size.

---

---

---

---

---

---

What about gourds?

Gourds and winter squash have distinct differences in their usage, appearance, edibility, growing season, and shelf life.

• Gourds are generally used for decorative purposes, have a bitter taste, and come in various shapes.
• On the other hand, winter squash is edible, has a delicious flavor, and is more consistent in appearance.
• Generally, gourds take longer to grow and have a longer shelf life than winter squash.

---

3. Give winter squash room to grow

Plants grow large and can quickly take over a garden. Grow winter squash along the edge of the garden so they can spill outward. Direct growing vines away from other plants as they grow. 

Additionally, train vines up tall ladders and arbors; get creative and find ways to give the growing vines plenty of room and airflow. When grown vertically, larger fruit will benefit from some sort of melon cradle.

• Choose a location to grow winter squash that gets 6-8 hours of sun. 
• The soil should be loose to a depth of 1 foot.
• Rotate each year where you plant to help prevent pests and diseases. Do not plant in the same place that other squash, cucumbers or melons were the previous season. 
• Sow 2-3 seeds about an inch deep. 
• Sow seeds in hills at least 2 feet apart, preferably up to 4-5 feet apart. 
• Thin to the strongest seedling when plants are 2-3 inches tall by snipping other plants. Never pull on the roots as it may disrupt the other seedlings.
• If using square foot gardening, plant winter squash on the outside edge of a bed allowing 2-4 square feet per plant. 

---

---

---

4. Supply winter squash with plenty of water

Winter squash plants are happiest with heavy and even watering. Winter squash are typically big plants with big fruit that need a lot of water. 

• Once plants are 3-4 inches tall, mulch plants well to hold in moisture.
• Water slowly and deeply once the top 2 inches of soil has dried out. 
• Water the soil (not the leaves and vines) to help prevent powdery mildew. 
• Leaves may wilt in the afternoon sun but recover once temperatures cool. This is heat stress, not water stress. 
• If squash leaves are wilted in the morning, they need water as soon as possible.

---

5. Feed winter squash regularly

Plant winter squash in rich, well-draining soil amended with plenty of compost. Work plenty of compost into the soil. When plants begin to blossom and set fruit, feed them with a liquid organic fertilizer or organic granular fertilizer. Feed plants about once a month during the growing season.

---

6. Be patient when waiting for female blossoms, and hand-pollinate if necessary

Each winter squash plant develops male and female flowers. The way to differentiate between male and female blossoms is by looking at the base of the flower. Male blossoms have a single long stem, while female blossoms have small swollen fruit.

Typically, male blossoms appear first and in large numbers, followed by female blossoms in a few days or weeks.

If you find female fruits are withering and not developing into fruit, consider hand pollinating the female blossoms. This can be done by carefully removing a male blossom, peeling back the petals, and transferring the pollen to the stigma of the female blossom.

---

7. Stay ahead of common pests and diseases

Healthy soil, planting at the right time, correct watering, and keeping your plants healthy are the best defenses against pests and diseases. Here are more tips to keep your winter squash pest and disease free: 

• Check the underside of leaves daily for signs of squash bugs, borers, and cucumber beetles. Handpick bugs and dispose of eggs. 

• Grow plants vertically, or use plant supports to keep them up off the ground to prevent pest damage.
• Allow enough room for plants to grow freely; good air circulation helps prevent powdery mildew. At the first sign of mildew, remove affected leaves and spray with a sulfur or baking soda solution. 
• Use row covers when plants are young to protect against insects. 
• Plant radishes around the plant to deter pests; allow the radishes to flower and remain in place throughout the season. 
• Other companion planting ideas that can be mutually beneficial and help with insects include borage, oregano, marigolds, nasturtium, lemon balm, corn, and beans. 
• Keep the garden picked up and free from debris that may harbor pests and diseases.

---

8. Harvest winter squash correctly

Winter squash should be allowed to stay on the vine until fully mature. Winter squash is ready to harvest when the skin of the squash cannot be dented with a fingernail and when the stems shrivel and begin to die.

Do not leave the fruit on the plant too long, or it may split.

If you live in an area with frost, harvest before the first hard frost. If there is a light frost, harvest all fruit right away.

Cut the fruit from the vines leaving 2-3 inches of stem. Do not carry fruit by the stem, as it may break off. Squash without stems does not store as well.

---

9. Cure and store winter squash properly

Leave winter squash on the ground to cure for about ten days after harvesting. Sunshine toughens the skin and makes fruit sweeter. If high heat or frost makes curing outside impossible, let winter squash cure by a sunny window in your home for two weeks. 

Wipe dirt off fruit, but do not spray off. If desired, use a Clorox wipe to lightly wipe off to help prevent rot during storage. Store in a cool, well-ventilated area for up to 6 months.

Check squash frequently during storage. Use or dispose of any soft squash right away.

---

If this post about how to grow winter squash was helpful, please share it:

---

The US has deliberately pushed farms to consolidate into gigantic monstrosities.

Meanwhile, the average American now grows nothing edible. And is even prejudiced against the growing of food, as one can see by the preponderance of HOAs and city codes.

In a community of properly educated people, it’s easy to envision a network of yards filled with various good edibles, as each desires to cultivate.

An orchard could stretch across city blocks, with trees in different yards pollinating each other.

One neighbor has baskets of apples; another, a wheelbarrow of organic greens; another, herbs for medicines – and yet another, oil-rich nuts containing needed minerals mined deep beneath the sidewalks.

Why would this be difficult? The effort is already being made to maintain grass and toxic azaleas and oleanders. The most irrigated “crop” in the US is grass!

All is needed is a paradigm shift in thinking. Which is hopeless at present, as the entire system exists to make us believe we are radically individualistic even as we live in coddled babyhood with our water, electric, gas, and food umbilicals threaded in from far away. We are just a matter of days away from anarchy and starvation at any time.

Our mindsets are broken.

I met a man on the street in Hannibal who told me he was hired by a lady to do some yardwork. She said, “go clean up all those apple branches over there.”

He agreed to do the work, but then, in horror, he realized she had cut down a half-dozen mature and fruiting apple trees! He told me there were still beautiful apples hanging on the piles of branches. Someone in the past had planted a small orchard. Now all that was left was six stumps.

The woman who did that is probably unfixable. But she will die out and a new generation will take her place.

There are many elderly people toodling around in RVs right now and playing pickleball. They ate the seed corn and have spent their children’s inheritance. They grew up in a prosperous nation which no longer exists.

Never mind them. We’ll plant trees they can’t cut down.

Did your parents plant trees? Did your grandparents? Many did not.

The entire mindset of the culture somehow shifted from production to consumption, from looking forwards to simply looking within and pleasing ourselves.

A real community could exist where neighbors pass produce over the fence and raise chickens in the city. Where no one would even think of citing a man for growing a garden in his front yard, or citing a woman for keeping ducks.

Maybe we’ll be the ones to build it. Or our children will.

When the cheap credit and oil and electric run low and times get tight, and the fake green revolution nonsense ends in lots of waste and broken garbage, I do think things will change and people will get back to the soil and to real community.

Even if they don’t, it’s a beautiful thing to think about. And at least we can make a start of it with our family and friends and neighbors.

Share this post!

These showy plants originated in southern Asia, where the epiphytic vines drape from tree branches in damp forests.

When you grow Aeschynanthus species at home, it’s necessary to replicate the soil and growing conditions of their native range as closely as possible.

These evergreen perennials may be cultivated outdoors year-round only in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 11.

In this guide, I’ll share tips to grow and care for lipstick vine as an indoor plant, though you may choose to bring it outdoors for the warm months.

Here’s everything I’ll cover:

What Is Lipstick Vine?

There are 150 known species in the Aeschynanthus genus and all of them are epiphytes. These belong to the Gesneriaceae family, which also includes African violets.

Species from this genus were first classified by botanist William Jack and so named a year after his death, in 1823.

The genus name is a combination of the Greek word “aischne,” which translates to “shame” in English, and “anthos,” or flower.

Though the number of different shades and styles available from these plants couldn’t possibly compete with the multitudes of lipstick options lining the shelves at your local pharmacy or department store, there are numerous species and cultivars to choose from nonetheless.

The most common species in cultivation are A. radicans, A. longicaulis (syn. A. marmoratus) aka Black Pagoda, and A. fulgens (syn. A. evrardii), as well as hybrids and a number of cultivars.

Heard enough to be intrigued? Let’s move on from dreaming about these glorious blooming vines to growing them. Here we go!

Lipstick Vine Propagation

It may be possible to propagate lipstick plants from seed, but this method is unreliable, and cultivated varieties and hybrids will not grow true to the parent plant.

Lipstick plants will grow readily from cuttings, so if you have a friend who’s already discovered the joys of this flowering houseplant, you’re in luck.

There are two ways to root them:

In Water

Those long vines that the plants produce are excellent for rooting cuttings. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring and summer.

To initiate the process, you can cut a four-inch piece from the end of a healthy stem, just below a node.

Remove any flowers or buds, and pinch off the leaves from the bottom three inches of the stem, leaving at least two leaves at the top of the cutting.

Then place the cutting upright in a clear three- or four-inch-tall glass filled about two-thirds of the way with tepid water.

Make sure all of the cuttings are positioned with their leaves above the water line and at least one bare node below the water. This node is where the new roots will sprout.

Place the container in a location that’s at least 65°F, or ideally closer to 70°F at all times. It should also receive several hours of bright, indirect light each day.

If the water becomes cloudy, carefully drain it and replace it with fresh, tepid water.

Change the water anyway every four or five days to minimize the risk of harmful bacterial and fungal growth. Also, remove any cuttings that get slimy or develop brown or dead leaves and toss them.

Look for roots starting a week later, but note that the process may take several weeks.

Wait until the roots that form are at least half an inch long before transferring each cutting to a two-inch pot filled with an appropriate potting mix – which we’ll discuss below so keep reading!

Several can be planted together in larger pots, but be careful to avoid containers so large that the overabundance of soil may leave plants subject to rot.

In Potting Mix

Rooting a cutting in soilless potting mix starts with snipping cuttings as described above and removing the bottom leaves, making sure each cutting has at least one node.

You may want to dip the cut end in rooting hormone powder to speed the process.

Next, gently jab the cuttings into an African violet specialty formula potting mix that you’ve pre-moistened and allowed to drain. The bare node should be positioned slightly below the surface, with the leaves an inch or more above it.

Since you can’t expect a 100 percent success rate, I recommend placing at least four cuttings in pots four inches in diameter.

Again, you don’t want there to be too much vacant soil in the pot or the cuttings can easily succumb to overwatering and rot, just like more mature lipstick plants might.

Place the pot in a spot with a temperature of 65 to 70°F and that receives at least four hours of bright, indirect light each day.

Keep the mix moist by spraying the surface every day or two with water from a spray bottle. If it’s not too much trouble, you can increase your odds of success by slipping the pot into a clear plastic bag to improve moisture retention and increase humidity.

Expect the cuttings to form substantial roots and be ready for their own individual pots in the space of about eight weeks.

If any have clearly died instead of rooting, make sure to remove them promptly to reduce the threat of infection for the remaining cuttings.

Transplanting

To make sure a potted nursery start is healthy, check for shiny green foliage without leaf spots or signs of insect damage.

Also, get a look at the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot – don’t purchase any that have slimy brown roots protruding since these indicate deadly root rot.

Whether you’re transplanting a cutting you rooted yourself or a purchased start, make sure you select a proper growing mix.

Ease the transplant from its container and place it so the crown will rest about an inch below the rim of the pot. If it’s young, it probably won’t have tangled roots; loosen them gently with clean fingers as needed.

Add more soil below the transplant if the soil level isn’t high enough. Then carefully fill in the pot to an inch below the rim, lightly firming the mix with your fingers so the plant is stable.

Once your transplants are in their new pots, place them in the same spot where they were rooting, or in their new home if you are planting purchased starts.

Hanging containers are a great idea for displaying lipstick plants. Sometimes the vines can exceed three feet long, so you’ll want a pot or basket that will look good hanging high on a wall or from the ceiling.

Indoors, these should be cachepots without drainage holes so they won’t drip on your carpet, with plastic nursery pots that have holes in the bottom for drainage placed inside.

This lightweight plastic wall planter sconce is a fun option. In a half-moon shape, it measures 12 inches across by six inches tall and wide and comes in seven colors, including black, white, and espresso metallic.

Temperature

To grow these vines indoors, keep the temperature in the 59 to 79°F range.

Anything between 65 and 70°F is considered the optimal range, and 65°F is the ideal temperature during the winter dormancy period.

Cooler temperatures in the winter also help to promote springtime blooms.

Light

These plants need at least four hours of bright, indirect light daily, but they should never be exposed to direct sunlight.

The ideal location indoors may be a spot within three or four feet of an east- or west-facing window in your home.

Direct sunlight will scorch lipstick vines, meaning the leaves will become brown and crisp. This may also stunt the plant’s growth. Avoid overexposure!

If too little light is an issue at your house, you can opt to use grow lights for a few hours each day.

But be careful about placement: Grow lights should be positioned at least 24 inches away from the vines, or they may scorch them the same way direct sunlight does.

Humidity

Lipstick plants will do okay with humidity levels as low as 30 percent, but about 50 percent is ideal to promote healthy foliage.

To be able to offer this level of humidity in the typically dry home, you may need to furnish a shallow tray of water filled with pebbles beneath the pot, or mist the plant every couple of days.

If you’re growing these in a hanging basket, an electric humidifier can come in handy.

To promote more blooms, keep the air on the dryer side of their preferred humidity level throughout the winter dormancy period.

Watering

To prevent yellowing leaves, a sure sign of overwatering, make sure to maintain even moisture without allowing the soil to become waterlogged.

Determine this either by using a soil moisture meter or plunging your fingertip into the soil at the edge of the pot – if it’s dry two inches down, it’s time to water.

Make sure to water from the bottom or at the soil level, never from overhead. Allow the excess to drain thoroughly and then discard it.

Pooled water at the bottom of a planter or in the saucer below it can cause root rot, which is fatal and to be avoided at all costs.

Also, use tepid rather than cold water, especially when the plant is in bloom and extra susceptible to shock from chilly soil.

In general, you’ll probably need to water about once a week, though you should typically lengthen the interval between bouts of watering throughout the dormant days of winter.

At that point, once every two weeks should be ample, but test that soil moisture to be sure!

Pruning and Maintenance

There is a bit of maintenance involved with lipstick plants, especially if you’re aiming for full, lush growth and optimized flowering potential.

First, to prevent infection by harmful pathogens, it’s important to use sterile scissors or clippers to cut off and discard any yellow, brittle, or wilting leaves or stems.

Resist the temptation to pull leaves off with your hands as you walk by, since you may uproot the whole vine or damage the stem in the process.

If you’re fortunate enough to grow a thriving lipstick plant with lots of stems, go ahead and prune the ends to encourage the plant to grow fuller. Do this after flowering or during the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing.

Deadhead the spent blooms to maintain a tidy appearance.

Your lipstick plant will eventually need to be transplanted into a larger pot, but don’t rush this. These plants grow and flower best when they’re a bit potbound.

Only repot into a new container that’s one size larger. If it’s roomier than that, the excess volume of added potting mix is likely to trap and hold extra water instead of allowing it to drain.

Always give the plant a drink of water the day ahead of repotting. This will help minimize transplant shock.

If you place your plant outdoors during the summer months, select a location out of direct sun and make sure to bring it back indoors when temperatures drop to 60°F.

Grown as houseplants, lipstick vines don’t often encounter issues with pests or disease, but there are a few to watch for and prevent where possible:

Pests

Like other houseplants that prefer humid conditions and moist soil, lipstick plants are vulnerable to aphids, mealybugs, scale, and spider mites.

Make sure to remove any insect pests ahead of bringing houseplants back indoors ahead of cool weather.

If you’ve spotted one or more of these houseplant assailants, you can check out our guides to managing aphid, mealybug, scale, and spider mite infestations for tips on identifying, preventing, and removing each type of insect.

Disease

Too much or too little humidity, too little light, and too-cold temperatures are the most threatening foes for lipstick vines.

There are a few diseases you will need to keep an eye out for:

Leaf Spot

Tiny brown marks on the leaves are the first indication of leaf spot, which is caused by a group of fungi that exploit overly moist conditions in warm weather.

If your lipstick plant has spent time outdoors in the warm months, that may be where it picked up the infection.

That’s what happened to my lipstick plant, though thankfully only a couple of leaves were affected and it was easy to eliminate the problem.

Indoors, watch the way you water to avoid leaf spots. Ideally, you should water at the soil surface, not from overhead.

You can usually take care of a mild case by wiping the leaves clean with a damp cotton ball or applying neem oil.

To learn more about preventing, identifying, and eliminating this issue, consult our guide.

Root Rot

Soil that’s waterlogged creates ideal conditions for root rot.

If your plant is languishing or you smell something rotten in the vicinity, check for slimy brown roots.

Sadly, if your lipstick vine has root rot, you’ll need to swiftly and decisively remove and destroy it, and toss the mix it’s growing in at the same time.

Be sure to sanitize the container if you plan to reuse it.

Best Uses of Lipstick Vines

If you love the look of flowering plants in hanging baskets on a patio or in a gazebo and you would like to create the same effect indoors, lipstick vines can deliver.

Of course, they do require adequate humidity, indirect bright light, and stable indoor temperatures.

But anywhere that you can provide those conditions, you can enjoy the bright, shiny leaves and colorful, quirky blooms that are sure to lift one’s mood.

Try hanging a solo lipstick plant beneath a skylight on the upstairs landing or in a sunroom in a spot that receives indirect sunlight.

Or set it on top of a shelf a few feet from a window in a brightly lit bathroom or the kitchen.

Also, you could experiment with growing several in a set of flat-backed containers hanging on a wall, with the vines draping down the walls and accenting the room with vibrant color when they bloom.

More than just a place to sleep, a home is a sanctuary that should be comfortable and reflective of its inhabitants. The goal of any successful home improvement project should be to enhance the quality of life by bringing together improved practicality, improved aesthetics, and improved comfort. In this post, we’ll go through eight upgrades that will completely transform your home into a place of comfort and convenience.

Image source

Elegant Flooring Transitions 

The flooring in your home is one of the first things people notice and can completely transform the look of a room. When renovating, it’s important to think about how to gracefully switch between flooring types. To create visual separation while preserving continuity, you may, for instance, pair hardwood floors with natural stone or tiles. These changes in texture and color serve to both improve aesthetics and clearly define areas, resulting in an air of refined elegance.

Upgrade Your Roofing

The safety of your house and family is dependent on the integrity of your roof. When you have a strong, weatherproof roof over your head, you can rest easy knowing that your home is more protected from the elements. If your roof is sturdy, it will protect your home’s interior from the elements including wind, rain, and hail.

Water leaks, which can cause mold and other health problems, can be avoided with a well-made roof. Consider investing in services for your home’s roof upgrade similar to commercial roof preventative maintenance which employs high-quality processes in upgrading the roofing. In the long run, this could prevent the need for costly repairs or replacements. A high-quality roof may also need less upkeep than a low-quality roof, saving you time and money.

Integrate Smart Home Technology

We have entered the era of “smart living,” where cutting-edge technology is integrated into every aspect of human life. When doing house improvements, it’s a great time to install smart home technology. Integrating smart home technologies, such as intelligent lighting and thermostats and voice-controlled assistants like AI-powered products, not only improves convenience but also helps with energy efficiency and increases safety. Controlling the lighting and security of your house with the sound of your voice is the height of contemporary comfort.

Interior Doors Upgrade

Interior doors are the most effective way to improve the look and value of your home. All too often, we make do with what we have rather than explore the possibilities presented by something as seemingly little as a door replacement. They serve many purposes other than just separating spaces. In places where cost considerations necessitated the installation of hollow-core doors, traditional elegance can be achieved by applying molding in the style of a raised panel door.

Customized Storage Solutions 

If you want to encourage calm and keep your mind clear, you need a space that is devoid of clutter. Customized storage options are a great addition to any home renovation. Space may be used more effectively and attractively with the help of custom storage, built-in cabinetry, and multifunctional furniture. These custom storage solutions combine form and function in a way that doesn’t sacrifice style for utility.

Luxurious Bathrooms 

Today’s bathrooms have evolved from merely functional rooms to calming retreats where one can refresh and revitalize. Adding spa-like amenities to your bathroom is a wise upgrade for any home. You could go all out and put in a rain shower, heated towel bars, and other luxurious amenities. An elegant, spa-like atmosphere can be created in your bathroom by using natural stone or mosaic tiles. Upgrade to a system that saves you money on your water bills as well. Proper illumination and tastefully crafted vanities complete the transformation into a luxurious retreat.

Outdoor Oasis

Outside spaces are just as important as indoor ones, so don’t neglect them while making improvements to your property. A pergola, fire pit, and an outdoor kitchen can help you turn your backyard into an outdoor haven. These enhancements allow you to make the most of your home’s square footage by creating a private oasis where you can relax, host gatherings, and commune with nature. Careful landscaping and cozy patio furniture round out the setting, beckoning you to relax and relish the benefits of outdoor life.

Kitchen Marvels

For many people, the kitchen is the most important room in the house. Invest in high-end kitchen appliances and finishes to satisfy your inner gourmet while renovating your house. Some of the most iconic features of a modern kitchen include granite counters, stainless steel equipment, and a well-designed island. Kitchens with plenty of storage space and user-friendly layouts make prepping meals a pleasure.

Stunning Lighting Designs

The way a room is lit may drastically alter the mood. Improving the look of your home requires rethinking how light is used. Use a combination of ambient, task, and accent lighting to set a variety of atmospheres and facilitate a wide range of tasks. Light fixtures such as chandeliers, pendant lamps, and wall sconces can also be decorative accents. By allowing you to control the brightness of your lights, dimmers, and smart lighting systems create a warm and inviting atmosphere in your home.

Statement Furnishings

The furniture in your home is a reflection of you and your taste. Choose conversation-starting pieces while redecorating to draw in new eyes and add personality. Invest in classic, cozy things that will last a lifetime. You can achieve the look you want by incorporating vivid hues, elaborate patterns, and plush materials. Investing in a high-quality piece of furniture may be a great way to set the tone for any room and show off your exquisite taste.

Endnote

Improving your home is an adventure in luxury, individuality, and innovation. You may make a space that is both functional and beautiful by using smart home technologies, installing creative storage solutions, and including exquisite floor transitions. Comfort and pleasure are reimagined in the form of sumptuous kitchens, outdoor retreats, and spa-like bathrooms.

Having a captivating lighting scheme and distinctive pieces of furniture gives your home a special allure that reflects your personality. As you set out on this journey of reinvention, keep in mind that each new feature you add is like a new brushstroke in the creation of your dream home, a haven where your hopes and dreams can come true.

Planting tulips is a must-do on my fall garden tasks. To have beautiful spring colour, you have to put in the work months in advance. Here’s how to figure out what kind of perennial tulips to plant and when to plant them based on where you live.

Every fall, I give my future self a little gift. Vancouver skies are cloudy and rainy almost all winter long. By late February and early March, we begin to see hints of spring, which completely revitalizes my spirit.

One of the heralds of spring are tulips and other spring flowering bulbs. When we’ve been living in such a lack of colour, confined inside for the past few months, colour can instantly bring much-needed outdoor serotonin and dopamine.

What’s even better than planting tulips is planting perennial tulips. These are tulips that haven’t lost the ability to return year after year, giving you a steady rainbow of colour with minimal work.

So, think into the future and give yourself some joy by planting perennial tulips in the fall. Here’s what you need to know.

This post will cover…

Choosing Perennial Bulbs

While technically, all tulips should be perennials, that won’t always be the case. After years of breeding and hybridizing tulips for big blooms and sturdy stems, they’ve lost their perennial trait. This is why most people treat tulips as annuals and be pleasantly surprised if they return the following year.

But! You can purposefully grow tulips as perennials—you just need to ensure you’re buying the right bulbs.

When shopping for bulbs, look for words like perennializing and naturalizing tulips. Also, pay attention to the bloom times (early, mid, late) and try to pick a few varieties to have an extended season of tulip blooms.

There are many different types of tulips (which you can learn more about in this post), but here are some of the best perennial tulips:

• Darwin Hybrid
• Greigii
• Kafmanniana
• Fosteriana
• Species/botanical (these are smaller and more closely resemble the original wild tulip)

It’s important to note that tulips are only perennials in their ideal conditions. Typically best in zones 3-8, they need cold winters, spring moisture, a sunny location, and good drainage. Tulips are native to Central Asia, so their ideal conditions may not match everywhere.

Naturalizing Tulips

Naturalizing tulips takes it one step further than perennials. While some tulips will return for several years, tulips that have naturalized will not only continuously return but also multiply.

The best tulips for naturalizing are Species, Fosteriana, and Kaumanniana. For more tips on naturalizing bulbs, check out this post.

When to Plant Perennial Tulip Bulbs

Like most gardening advice, when to plant tulip bulbs depends on where you live. For those with very harsh winters, you’re looking as early as mid-September, and for those with warmer climates, as late as mid-December. For most, October to November is best.

For me, in zone 7-8, the ideal time is early October. Don’t get too hung up on a date, but know that you want to get them in the ground before the first frost. They must be in the ground before it freezes for the first time to establish themselves beforehand. The ideal temperature for planting tulips is 9⁰C/50⁰F.

Tulips need to go through a cold period, so if you don’t get them in the ground before it freezes, then it may be best to grow them in containers instead.

Try to plant your tulips relatively soon after you buy them. If you need to store them, keep them somewhere cool and dry. But the longer you store them, the more likely they are to dry out while waiting for you to plant them.

How to Plant Perennial Tulips

Tulips like loose, rich soil with good drainage. They can grow in sun and shade, but full sun will give you the best odds of tulips perennializing. But I always like to remind people that in the spring, the garden gets a lot more sunshine than you think because the deciduous trees are often still bare when the tulips begin to come out.

Plant the tulips with the roots facing down and the pointy part up. I like to put them in groupings of odd numbers, like 5 or 9, for a more natural display. But ensure they’re still spaced out enough from each other to have enough room to grow.

To speed things up, I like to use a power planter. This is especially helpful if you’re planting lots of bulbs for naturalizing. It really saves your wrist and lessens the time.

After planting the tulips, water them. This will stimulate root growth and help them develop better. They need to establish themselves in the ground before the soil freezes.

Mark where you have planted the tulips and add a layer of mulch, such as leaves or pine needles, to protect the tulips during the winter.

How Deep to Plant Perennial Bulbs

Generally, the recommendation is to plant bulbs 2-3 times the bulb’s height. Personally, I think it’s best to plant them even deeper, especially in colder climates.

First, look at the planting instructions and then always plant on the deeper side if they give a range. If they don’t give any indication, aim for three times the bulb’s height or slightly deeper if you live in a cold climate. Covering with mulch after planting can also help.

Once again, the power planter helps you easily get deep enough.

Perennial Tulips Care

Once planted, you don’t have to do much with your bulb but wait for the pop of spring colour to arrive.

You can deadhead the flowers or cut them and bring them inside, but I recommend letting them stay on to increase the risk of them returning as a perennial.

Whatever you do, leave behind the foliage—that’s essential for the plant to recharge the bulb so it can return the following year.

Another thing I like to do is take reference photos. This way, you can remember where you planted the bulbs in case you want to add more later, as well as other plants.

Common Perennial Tulip Pests

The biggest problem you’ll encounter with perennial tulips is squirrels. I had many squirrels feast on the bulbs I naturalized last year, but I planted enough that I didn’t mind sharing some of them. You can see them in the video below!

However, if you want to stop squirrels and other rodents, you can cover the area after planting with a layer of chicken wire or hardware cloth. Then, secure the wire to the ground with landscape pins or large rocks. You can top it off with mulch if you want to hide the appearance for the winter.

This will prevent the rodents from digging out the bulbs. Remember that you must remove the covering before the bulb pops up in the spring.

If you’re dealing with voles or groundhogs, you can add gravel to the bottom of your hole when planting. Add soil and the bulb, ensuring the soil surrounds the bulb. Then, add another protective layer of gravel.

Deer can also be a problem. My biggest recommendation is to mix the tulips with daffodils since they won’t eat them and plant them closer to the house, where the deer may feel less inclined to go.

Frequently Asked Questions About Planting Tulips

More Tips for Growing Flower Bulbs

Collaborative post

Have you noticed that your family has been feeling a bit tired and worn out lately? Maybe you’ve observed low energy levels, or a drop in stamina. It could be that your kids are more irritable than usual, and it feels like ages since you all felt healthy and full of life.

When life gets busy, it’s easy to fall into habits like relying on processed foods, not drinking enough water, and being exposed to toxins in our homes and surroundings. The result? A family in need of rejuvenation.

Different approaches to detoxing

There are many ways to approach detoxing. Some require intense commitment, while others take longer but lead to lasting changes. For best results, you need to choose the option that best suits your family.

Full body cleanse

A full body cleanse is a short term detox programme that typically lasts between 3-7 days. The key is to combine good nutrition and detox together for optimal health. During this time you’ll focus on consuming rich foods and juices that are easily digested, while eliminating processed foods, wheat, dairy products, caffeine, alcohol and sugar from your diet.

Organ specific cleanses

As an alternative to a system reboot, you can opt for detox protocols that specifically target supporting organs in the body.

Here are a few options to consider:

1. Liver cleanse focuses on incorporating foods and herbs into your diet that can help eliminate toxins and promote bile production. This is particularly beneficial for addressing issues like fatty liver disease.
2. Kidney cleanse concentrates on consuming foods that alleviate strain on the kidneys, while providing nutrients to optimise their function. This can assist in preventing kidney stones.
3. Skin cleanse includes foods rich in skin clearing vitamins, such as A, C, E and collagen. Additionally, consumption of foods like sugar and dairy is reduced.

Holistic approach

If you prefer a more holistic method, you can integrate nutritious detox supportive foods and lifestyle practices into your family’s regular routine. Some suggestions include:

•  Opting for organic produce to minimise exposure to pesticides.
•  Replacing processed snacks with fresh fruits and vegetables.
•  Keeping yourselves hydrated by drinking plenty of water.
•  Engaging in exercise as a family.

By adopting these habits, you can set up long lasting, positive changes.

Tips for a family detox

If you’re ready to embark on a detox journey with your family, here are some tips to get you started.

1. Consult your doctor before starting any cleanse, especially if you have any medical conditions or specific dietary needs.

2. Ensure you have all the supplies for your detox journey. For example, fresh produce, herbal tea, and a blender for preparing healthy smoothies.

3. To help your family cope with any detox symptoms, plan fun activities at home, or get everyone playing games outdoors.

4. Get the whole family involved, and explain the benefits of detoxing. Emphasise that it’s a team effort and encourage their support. Creating a motivating family detox calendar can be a great way to stay on track together.

5. Hydration plays a role in detoxification. Drinking water helps eliminate toxins, prevents constipation and boosts energy levels. To make it more exciting, you can add add lemon, ginger, mint or fruit to your water. Start your day by rehydrating and alkalizing your system with a glass of lemon water. Throughout the day, continue sipping on water to support your body’s natural detox processes.

Nutrients that support detoxification

A key element of detoxing is providing your body with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants that enhance your organs’ ability to do their job. Key nutrients include:

• Protein: helps produce glutathione, the “master antioxidant” your liver needs to break down toxins for elimination.
• Probiotics: these good gut bugs aid digestion and bowel regularity, which helps to remove toxins from the body.
• Prebiotics: prebiotic fibers feed the probiotic bacteria in your GI tract to help them thrive.
• Vitamins B, C, and E: these vitamins are vital for liver function and immune support.
• Magnesium, Zinc, and Selenium: these minerals help activate liver enzymes involved in the metabolism of toxins.
• Sulphur-rich foods: sulphur helps your liver fully neutralise and excrete toxins.
• Potassium: this mineral balances fluid levels in the body to combat bloating.
• Fibre: soluble and insoluble fibre binds to toxins in the digestive tract and sweeps them out.

Focus on getting these nutrients from whole food sources like fruits, veggies, nuts, seeds, and quality proteins. You can also sip on detoxifying green juices. Supplements offer backup too.

Nutritious detox-friendly foods

Fill your family’s plates with these delicious foods during a detox:

Lemon

Kickstart your day with lemon water. Lemons provide detoxifying vitamin C and alkalize your body.

Ginger

Ginger reduces nausea and helps support your digestive system – perfect for detox.

Garlic

Antiviral, antibacterial, and antifungal, these are just some of the proven health benefits of garlic. Garlic contains a sulphur compound that fights toxins.

Beets

Bright pink beets are packed with detoxifying antioxidants, minerals, and phytonutrients.

Green tea

Sipping green tea pumps up your antioxidant intake while benefiting the liver.

Leafy greens

Leafy greens such as chard, spinach, and kale supply fibre, minerals, and chlorophyll to help remove toxins.

Cruciferous vegetables

The term cruciferous vegetables may be confusing, but fear not, you are probably already eating many of them. Broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, kale, radish and watercress all contain sulphur compounds to support liver detox.

Berries

These antioxidant powerhouses reduce inflammation and free radical damage.

Avocado

Creamy avocado provides detox-friendly healthy fats and vitamin E.

Lentils

These legumes offer essential fibre to help sweep waste through the colon.

Apple cider vinegar

A quick shot of ACV boosts acidity to aid detoxification and kill off harmful bacteria.

Lifestyle tips for ongoing detox

Complement your family’s detox nutrition plan with these daily habits:

• Exercise regularly to reduce inflammation and energise detox organs.
• Prioritise high-quality sleep so your brain and body can fully recharge overnight. You can do this by developing a healthy evening routine for your family.
• Spend time outdoors breathing fresh air as a family.
• Open windows regularly at home to circulate fresh indoor air.
• Use natural cleaning and personal care products to avoid toxic chemical exposure.
• Limit alcohol which taxes your liver function.
• Stay hydrated by sipping water or herbal tea around the clock.
• Manage stress with meditation, yoga, and relaxing hobbies.

Detox side effects and how to manage them

Because detoxes spur major changes in your body, you may experience some side effects. Common symptoms include:

• Headaches
• Fatigue
• Nausea
• Diarrhoea or constipation
• Trouble sleeping
• Irritability
• Skin breakouts
• Sugar cravings
• Congestion
• Muscle aches

These symptoms are totally normal and should pass within a few days as your body adjusts. 

Here are some tips to minimise detox side effects:

• Ease into your detox instead of shocking your system
• Stay hydrated with herbal tea, broth, and electrolytes
• Get plenty of rest and downtime
• Massage sore muscles
• Use natural remedies like peppermint oil for headaches

Be patient with yourself and your family during this transition period. The temporary discomfort will give way to restored wellbeing.

Conclusion

Detoxing together as a family is an amazing way to boost energy, strengthen immunity, improve moods, inspire healthy habits, and bring everyone closer together on the journey toward wellness. By incorporating these tips for a nutritious detox into your plan, you’ll be well on the way to healthier, happier bodies from the inside out.