Category: Home & Garden

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Are you looking for gardening classes for yourself?

Trying to figure out how to start a garden can be overwhelming. You ask yourself questions like “What do I do first?”, “How will I know what to plant?” and “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?” Let me help you get started and remove some of the uncertainty about how to start gardening.

On the other hand, you may have been gardening for a while and found that you have a basic understanding of gardening principles, but you’re looking for more in-depth information. You may be looking for ways to make your garden more productive. The gardening classes I teach may be what you need to take your garden to the next level.

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I offer monthly online gardening classes in “Growing in the Garden Academy” through Patreon

“Growing in the Garden Academy” includes a monthly live online gardening class where we cover seasonal topics. I also share what I’m planting, fertilizing, harvesting, and starting indoors (the “Low Desert To-Do List” for my garden) twice a month.

When you join “Growing in the Garden Academy,” you gain access to recordings of all past classes.

Past topics include Fall Gardening, Fall Crop Specifics, Garden Troubleshooting, Spring Garden Timeline, Companion Planting & Crop Rotation, Composting & In-Bed Vermicomposting, Soil Health & Fertilizing, Summer Gardening, Perennial Vegetables for Hot Climates, Seed Starting Basics (Indoors & Out), Monsoon Gardening, and Pest & Beneficial Insect Identification.

Each month, there is a new class with topics chosen by current members of GITG Academy.

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I teach in-person classes frequently throughout the Phoenix Area

I offer in-person classes regularly throughout the Phoenix Valley. If you sign up for my monthly newsletter, I first announce my upcoming classes there. In-person gardening classes are always a lot of fun. I love answering questions and want to ensure everyone learns something. We often learn from one another during class.

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Upcoming 2023 Gardening Classes

(click on the class name to register or get more information)

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Are you looking for gardening classes for your organization?

I’m passionate about helping others learn how to garden. Teaching gardening classes is one of my favorite ways to do just that. Whether taught in-person or virtually through “LIVE” online classes, everyone learns together in a fun, relaxed setting.

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“I reached out to Angela Judd about teaching gardening classes for the Mesa Public Library after hearing a glowing review of her expertise from another staff member. We set up two classes – Fall Gardening in Arizona and Composting and In-Bed Vermicomposting Basics – to present to the community on two separate nights within a two-week timeframe. The night for Fall Gardening in Arizona was amazing! The library saw a full house of eager gardeners of all levels; wanting tips, tricks, and overall information on how to plant a successful garden in the fall. Angela’s presentation was abundant in advice, covering anything and everything a gardener of any caliber would need. The following week, when she presented her Composting and In-Bed Vermicomposting Basics class, the library again saw a large community of gardeners who were either currently composting and/or vermicomposting or wanting to begin and did not know how to start. Once more, the wealth of knowledge that shined through in Angela’s presentation was seen. With such high praises and a wonderful reception, I can’t wait to have her back at Mesa Public Library for even more classes!”

Brianna
Mesa Public Library

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In-person gardening classes in the Phoenix valley

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Online group gardening classes are available

Online group classes are an excellent option if you don’t live in the Phoenix metropolitan area but would still like gardening classes. The classes are easy to arrange on your platform, or I can set up a class for you using CrowdCast. Live, virtual classes allow everyone to ask questions and participate in real time.

“I reached out to Angela to teach our employees a live, virtual class on composting. Angela was responsive and willing to work with me on how I wanted the class to be done. She did a fantastic job teaching our employees about composting. She had a great deck that she put together, and was happy to answer any questions our employees had.

We recently had Angela back for another live, virtual class teaching us about container gardening and again, she was fantastic! The class was extremely informative, well thought out, and again she was happy to answer all the various questions from our employees. It’s amazing how much she knows about all things gardening! I truly cannot recommend Angela enough; she is a wonderful teacher, great to work with, and we can’t wait to partner with her again in the future!“

Allston
Program Manager, Employee Engagement & Community
T-Mobile

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Is there a topic you would like your audience to learn more about? I’m happy to answer questions and discuss seasonal topics and current gardening trends.

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The modern home is more than just a living space; it is a sanctuary, a reflection of our personality, and a place where we spend most of our time. As such, the aesthetic and auditory atmosphere of our homes has a significant impact on our mood, productivity, and overall well-being. One innovative way to enhance this atmosphere is by integrating acoustic panels into your home interior design.

Understanding acoustic panels

Acoustic panels are sound-absorbing materials that reduce noise and echo in a room, enhancing the overall sound quality. They are commonly used in music studios, auditoriums, and commercial buildings. However, recent years have seen a surge in their application in residential settings, thanks to companies like DECIBEL, a leading provider of acoustic wall panels in the UK.

Benefits of acoustic panels in home interior design

• Improved sound quality: acoustic panels absorb sound waves, reducing echo and background noise. This can make a significant difference in home offices, living rooms, or any area where clear sound is crucial.
• Enhanced privacy: by absorbing sound, these panels can also increase the level of privacy in a room, making them ideal for bedrooms, studies, and home offices.
• Aesthetic appeal: acoustic panels from DECIBEL come in various designs, colours, and materials, allowing you to match them with your existing décor or create a unique design statement.
• Easy installation: these panels are lightweight and easy to install, making them a practical choice for homeowners who enjoy DIY projects.

Transforming your home with acoustic panels

Living Room

Acoustic panels can be integrated into a living room design to improve the audio quality of your entertainment system. They can be strategically placed around the TV or entertainment centre to absorb unwanted sound reflections.

Home Office

In the era of remote work, a quiet and productive workspace is crucial. Acoustic panels can help to reduce distractions caused by outside noise, improving focus and productivity.

Bedroom

For light sleepers, acoustic panels can be a game-changer. They can be installed on the walls or ceiling to absorb unwanted noise and create a peaceful sleeping environment.

Children’s Room

Acoustic panels can also be beneficial in children’s rooms, particularly if they are learning a musical instrument. They can help to contain the sound within the room and prevent it from disturbing the rest of the house.

As we immerse ourselves in the world of acoustic panels, unlocking the secrets to refined interior design, it’s essential to recognise the broader canvas of soundproofing. Acoustic panels, with their visual appeal and functional excellence, form the cornerstone of a harmonious living space. 

Now, let’s explore the profound impact of soundproofing on your overall well-being. These solutions, whether through acoustic panels, soundproof doors, or strategic insulation, not only enhance your living space, but also play a pivotal role in creating a quieter, more peaceful haven that nurtures relaxation, sound sleep, and heightened concentration.

From stylish acoustic panels to the impact of soundproofing

Soundproofing is an excellent way to enhance the comfort and quality of your home environment.

By reducing the amount of noise that enters or escapes a room, soundproofing can create a peaceful and serene atmosphere. Whether you live in a busy urban area or have noisy neighbours, soundproofing can help to minimise external disturbances and create a more tranquil living space.

Additionally, soundproofing can also improve the acoustics within a room, allowing for better audio experiences when watching movies, listening to music, or engaging in other activities that require sound clarity.

Furthermore, soundproofing can have a positive impact on your overall wellbeing. Excessive noise can be detrimental to your mental and physical health, causing stress, sleep disturbances, and reduced productivity. By soundproofing your home, you can create a quieter and more peaceful environment, promoting relaxation, better sleep, and improved concentration. 

Whether you choose to install acoustic panels, soundproof doors and windows, or use insulation materials, investing in soundproofing measures can significantly enhance the overall quality of your living space and contribute to a more enjoyable and harmonious home life.

Conclusion

Incorporating acoustic panels into your home interior design can dramatically improve your living space’s sound quality, privacy, and aesthetic appeal. Companies like DECIBEL offer a wide range of acoustic wall panels that can be customised to fit your style and needs. So, whether you’re a music enthusiast, a remote worker, or simply someone looking for a peaceful and stylish living environment, acoustic panels could be the perfect solution for you. Transform your home today with the power of acoustic design.

Does vinegar kill weeds? Vinegar is pushed as THE natural, powerful weed-killing alternative to chemical herbicides. But just how effective is it? While there’s some truth to using vinegar as a weed killer, there’s a lot more you need to know before spraying it in your garden.

More and more people are turning away from herbicides in pursuit of organic methods for getting rid of weeds. For every person who switches to organic gardening methods, a worm does a little happy dance (wiggle).

I’m all for the push for organic gardening and practice it extensively in my regenerative gardening approach.

All over the internet, I see people suggesting the powerful properties of vinegar as a substitute for using chemical weed killers. It’s touted as the natural alternative safe for gardeners and plants.

Does vinegar kill plants? Let me be the first to tell you it isn’t the magical, natural weed killer you’ve been looking for. In fact, it’s far from it.

While vinegar technically works as a weed killer, there’s much more to the story. Let me break it down for you.

What is Vinegar?

Vinegar is made by fermenting water and acetic acid. Our household vinegars are diluted vinegar and contain anywhere from 5-7% of acetic acid. Most vinegar you use for cooking and around the house is 5%, while cleaning vinegar is 6%, and picking vinegar is 7%. That’s about as potent as it gets inside the home!

Horticultural vinegar can range from 15-20% potency. It’s hazardous to use, as contact with it can burn your skin. It’s also very easy to cause damage to surrounding plants and soil when you use it. In terms of going the natural route, it’s not much better than other herbicides.

Vinegar can harm plants by destroying the cell membranes. Essentially, it burns any part of the plant that it touches—only those parts of the plant that are in direct contact with the vinegar are affected by the vinegar.

Will Vinegar Kill Weeds?

Because white vinegar is an acid, it can be effective at killing certain plants and is a lot gentler than using commercial herbicides. One study found that it is very effective at killing weeds in their first two weeks of life. For older weeds, it found vinegar to have an 85-100% kill rate.

While it’s not going to be toxic to humans, you still want to use vinegar very carefully if you want to use it to kill weeds. The potency will depend on how much you dilute it.

Vinegar spray is usually not a one-time application. You need to continuously apply it for it to work. While it burns the leaves, the root system remains alive and well, and the plant will grow back.

You should only ever use a bottle with the stream setting rather than the mist setting to spray the plant. You should only spray the leaves so you’re not affecting the soil beneath.

Spraying vinegar on weeds should only be done on a sunny day. Rain will quickly wash away the vinegar, potentially spreading it elsewhere in the garden where it could do more harm than good.

Now, before you get spraying, I want you to keep reading. While vinegar can kill weeds in the garden, I wouldn’t recommend it. And I’m about to tell you why.

The Bad Side of Using Vinegar to Kill Weeds

Vinegar won’t discriminate against plants. The second it gets in contact with any plant, whether that’s an unwanted dandelion or your prized dahlia growing next to it, it will burn and kill the leaves of the plant.

As I mentioned before, it takes multiple applications for the vinegar to work, and you really need to get the roots for the plant to disappear entirely.

When vinegar gets into the soil, it can kill the ground nutrients essential to plant life. It can also harm microorganisms and larger wildlife, like worms or frogs, which may be sensitive to acid.

If you’re adding salt to your vinegar spray, as many do, it can also lead to salt buildup in your soil.

You’re really destroying the soil and its health, which will affect the ability of wanted plants to grow in the area.

And you know what grows well in poor soil? Weeds. More weeds.

Rethink the Weeds in Your Garden

By now, you’re probably thinking that vinegar isn’t the best “natural” solution after all. It will do more harm than good and take more time than just plucking the weeds from your garden yourself.

But I wouldn’t be me if I didn’t try to plead a case for the weeds.

Weeds are simply plants that are growing where they’re not wanted.  More often than not, these are wild plants and native species that naturally pop up in our gardens without invitation.

Native and wild plants are important parts of our ecosystems. They help to feed wildlife and pollinators, and microorganisms and insects when they break down.

Weeds are one of the first things to grow in poor soil. As they grow, they mine nutrients from deep in the soil and bring them back closer to the surface. Their growth can also break up compacted and clay soil. Over time, they build up the organic matter in depleted soil and allow other plants to come in and grow.

What I’m trying to say is that killing weeds isn’t always the answer. That weed may be serving a purpose and helping out your garden!

I Accidentally Sprayed My Plants With Vinegar. Now What?

Vinegar is quite effective and will work quickly to destroy your plant’s leaves. The first thing you want to do is try to rinse off the vinegar as soon as possible. Spray the foliage and saturate the soil to dilute the vinegar and prevent it from getting near the roots.

Likely, the plant will be able to bounce back perfectly fine. Well-established plants will have some leaf burn, but it shouldn’t affect the roots. If it’s a new plant, there’s a higher chance of permanent damage.

Once you see foliage that has started to die from the vinegar, cut all of it back. This will encourage new growth, and your plant will begin growing again.

How I Use Vinegar Naturally

While vinegar doesn’t have a place in my garden, that doesn’t mean I don’t use it elsewhere. Here are a few ways I enjoy using vinegar in my natural recipes.

• Herb-infused vinegar. By infusing fresh and dried herbs in vinegar, the liquid takes on the herb flavour. They’re great for salads, dips, and to give as gifts!
• Vinaigrettes. I make all kinds of fresh vinaigrettes from the garden, including chive blossom, fresh herbs and nasturtium, and strawberry flavours.
• Pickling. We couldn’t pickle without vinegar! One of my go-to’s is shishito peppers, as well as these radishes.
• Cleaners. Vinegars is a natural bleach alternative since acetic acid is great for disinfecting and cleaning. I use it as the base for my all-purpose lemon balm cleaner and my homemade glass cleaner. Just keep in mind that vinegar can dull the finish on porous materials like granite, tiles, and hardwood.
• Herbal hair rinse. The apple cider vinegar in this recipe helps to balance your hair’s pH, which has been affected by too many hair products. It helps to prevent unwanted hair breaking and helps your scalp maintain a healthy amount of oils.

Frequently Asked Questions About Using Vinegar to Kill Weeds

Other Common Household Ingredients to Consider

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Are you embarking on the quest for the perfect family car?

With an ever-expanding family, the vehicle requirements change. It’s not just about style or horsepower any more; safety, space, and reliability are just as important.

For parents, a car becomes more than just a means of transportation. It evolves into a mobile command centre, a safe haven, and often a makeshift diner for on-the-go meals.

Let’s explore the world of family cars and discover the factors that make a vehicle the right choice for parents and families.

Why parents need a different kind of car

Having children changes everything, including your vehicle needs.

The zippy two-seater or high-octane sports car might have been fun during your carefree days, but with kids on board, priorities shift. Now, the focus is on spacious backseats, ample trunk space for strollers and sports equipment, and, most importantly, top-notch safety features.

Finding the best family car: key features to consider

Every family is unique, but there are some universal features that every parent should look for in a family-friendly vehicle:

Safety is paramount

The wellbeing of your family is non-negotiable. Hence, it’s crucial to opt for cars renowned for their safety features.

This includes advanced airbags, reliable brake systems, and innovative features like lane departure warnings and collision alerts. Before investing, especially in a used car, consider running a check on EpicVIN to ensure the vehicle’s history is clear of accidents or major repairs.

Space, space, and more space

From changing bags and strollers to sports equipment and groceries, families come with baggage – literally. A sizeable boot and roomy backseats are essential. For larger families, third-row seating might be a deciding factor.

Fuel efficiency

Families are always on the move. From school runs to weekend soccer matches, the driving never seems to end. Fuel-efficient vehicles not only save money, but also reduce the carbon footprint, making them environmentally conscious choices.

Ease of entry and exit

With young children, easy entry and exit becomes crucial. Sliding doors or wide-opening doors can simplify the process of buckling in car seats or helping young ones in and out.

Entertainment systems

Keeping kids entertained during drives, especially long ones, is a godsend. Modern vehicles equipped with entertainment options can ensure peaceful drives without the recurrent “Are we there yet?”

Top family cars to consider

1. Honda Odyssey

A perennial favourite among families, this minivan boasts a spacious interior, impressive safety features, and a built-in vacuum for those unexpected messes.

2. Subaru Ascent

With its all-wheel-drive feature and ample seating, the Ascent is perfect for both city drives and adventurous road trips.

3. Toyota Sienna

Another minivan worth mentioning, the Sienna offers a smooth ride, spacious interior, and impressive fuel efficiency.

4. Chevrolet Traverse

A midsize SUV, the Traverse shines with its third-row seating and considerable cargo space, making family outings a breeze.

5. Ford Expedition

For larger families who love road trips, the Ford Expedition, with its expansive seating and cutting-edge tech features, is hard to beat.

Maintenance tips for family cars

A family car, given its frequent use, requires regular maintenance to ensure longevity. This includes timely oil changes, checking tyre pressures, and periodic servicing.

Regularly cleaning the interior can also help in maintaining a pleasant driving environment, especially with kids on board.

Conclusion

A family car is an investment, not just in terms of money, but in the safety and comfort of your loved ones. With the right features and a little research, parents can find a vehicle that not only meets but exceeds their family’s needs. As you prepare for school runs, camping trips, or simply a drive to the local park, make sure you’re doing it in a car built for the joys and challenges of family life.

Today we’re in St. Paul, Minnesota, visiting with Susan Warde.

Tulips don’t do well for me, and I don’t have many daffodils, but here’s a seasonal tour of some bulb or bulblike plants that grow in my garden.

Dutchman’s breeches (Dicentra cucullaria, Zones 3–8) is a native spring ephemeral. Technically the underground parts consist of tubers, but they are decidedly bulblike. Interspersed with the ferny leaves of the Dutchman’s breeches are Siberian squill (Scilla siberica, Zones 2–8), which turns the entire garden into a sea of blue in April.

Another April bloomer is our native trout lily (Erythronium albidum, Zones 3–8). Its mottled leaves echo those of the yellow trillium (Trillium luteum, Zones 4–8), seen in bud in the lower part of the photo.

Red trillium (Trillium recurvatum, Zones 4–9) also has mottled leaves. The wine-red flowers are not very showy, but these are planted next to a walkway where I can appreciate their subtlety.

Flowering in mid-May are these delicate daffodils (Narcissus triandrus ‘Thalia’, Zones 3–8). Pure white, with multiple blooms per stem, they’re my favorites.

What would a garden be without lilies? These martagons (Lilium martagon hybrids, Zones 3–8), the first to flower in my garden (early June), are seen here among Heuchera, Hosta, and Canadian ginger (Asarum canadense, Zones 3–7).

With its small flowers and recurved petals, this Asiatic lily (Lilium ‘Corsage’, Zones 3–7) resembles a martagon. I ordered nine bulbs in the fall of 2019 and 13 more the following fall. This past June there were more than 60 flowering stalks in the garden. The blossoms lack anthers, so they don’t attract bees, but they also don’t dust you and your clothing with orange pollen.

An unknown Asiatic lily, this is the first perennial I ever bought, more than four decades ago. It was labeled as “yellow.” Surprise! Not long ago I removed all orange flowers from my garden except this one, which I put in a shady, dry area. It keeps coming back in spite of mistreatment.

This beautiful lily is an Orienpet, ‘Silver Scheherazade’ (Zones 4–8). Tall, graceful, long-flowering—I couldn’t resist ordering more of them for next season, even though the scarlet lily beetles were a scourge last summer.

Another of my favorites is the Oriental lily Lilium speciosum ‘Album’ (Zones 5–8). It’s not particularly robust, but it begins flowering in late August when all my other lilies are done.

Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale ‘Album’, Zones 4–9) is not related to true crocuses, though like them it grows from a corm rather than a true bulb. It sends up large, floppy, tuliplike leaves in the spring that eventually die back, and you forget all about it. Then in mid-September up pop these striking leafless flowers. In my garden they appear through the foliage of prairie smoke (Geum triflorum, Zones 3–7). Behind them in the photo is a daylily.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

When landscape designer Brook Klausing, the founder of Brook Landscape, was asked to reimagine the front entrance of the Brooklyn Museum, there wasn’t much in the way of a garden to work with. “The museum had large crescent-shaped swaths of lawn that didn’t add anything dynamic to the space,” says Klausing. “It felt like a dead zone up front.” 

The entrance to the McKim, Mead & White building has long been a sore spot for the Museum. When it opened in 1897, visitors entered the Beaux-Arts building via a grand staircase, but by 1935 the steps were in such a state of disrepair that they were removed.  In the early 2000s, the Museum’s director described the Eastern Parkway entrance as “bleak and unwelcoming” and commissioned architect James Stewart Polshek to design a new one. Polshek added the modern glass entrance and also the crescent-shaped strips of grass, which broke up the concrete, but instead of people lounging on the lawn as Polshek imagined, the space became a no man’s land. 

Klausing’s goal was to reinvigorate the space and give the Museum some additional curb appeal. The designer, who had previously led the revamp of the Brooklyn Museum’s sculpture garden, decided to work within the existing crescent shapes for the sake of time and budget. His plan was to soften the space while keeping it visually open as a plaza. He also wanted to disconnect the garden from the street but not completely block it off. “We landed on this idea of a meadow,” he says. Klausing knew just whom to call to help him design it: his longtime friend, ecological horticulturist Rebecca McMackin.

In addition to beauty, Klausing and McMackin wanted to create something that provided meaningful habitat and ecological benefit, an area in which McMackin specializes. While they could have filled the whole crescent lawn in with a meadow, they decided to fill only every other strip to create walking paths within the plants. Klausing says, “We wanted people to be able to engage and experience it firsthand.” 

Planted in May, the space was officially dedicated to philanthropist Iris B. Cantor this past weekend. At the ceremony, Cantor, who is 92 and grew up on Eastern Parkway, said that she was thrilled to see birds and butterflies in front of the museum.

Here are 8 lessons home gardeners can borrow from Klausing and McMackin’s Brooklyn Museum garden:

Photography by Douglas Lyle Thompson.

1. Design for community.

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For stay-at-home parents, freelancing or remote work can be a great way to generate income while retaining flexibility. Being a parent requires good multitasking abilities, which means many mums and dads are well-suited to working from home.

The expertise you’ve gained at home applies seamlessly to remote work. It’s time to use your skills to pursue professional possibilities, all while continuing your vital parenting role.

A guide to freelancing and remote work for stay-at-home parents

This guide covers the essentials of building a freelance career from home as a parent – including establishing a schedule, pitching clients, leveraging skills, finding work-life balance, and more. With determination, you can forge a fulfilling remote career on your own terms.

1. Identifying your strengths and skills

The first step in your freelancing journey is recognising your unique talents and strengths.

What are you good at? What do you enjoy doing?

Your skills and passions will guide you toward the right freelancing opportunities.

2. Exploring freelance niches

Freelancing offers a plethora of opportunities across various niches.

Consider areas such as content writing, graphic design, web development, virtual assistance, social media management, or online tutoring. Find a niche that aligns with your skills and interests.

3. Building an online presence

In today’s digital age, establishing an online presence is crucial.

Create a professional website or portfolio showcasing your work and expertise. Use social media platforms like LinkedIn to connect with potential clients and peers in your industry.

4. Networking and marketing

Leverage your existing network of friends, family, and acquaintances to spread the word about your freelancing services.

You could also join online forums and groups related to your niche, attend virtual conferences, and participate in webinars to expand your professional network.

5. Setting clear goals

Define your freelancing goals, both short-term and long-term. Are you looking for part-time income, or do you hope to turn freelancing into a full-time career?

Having clear objectives will help you stay focused and motivated.

6. Time management and scheduling

Balancing freelancing with parenting requires excellent time management skills.

Create a daily or weekly schedule that allocates specific blocks of time for work and family responsibilities. Be realistic about what you can accomplish in the time you have available.

7. Childcare arrangements

Depending on the age and needs of your children, you may need to arrange childcare during your working hours.

This could involve hiring a nanny, enrolling your child in daycare, or coordinating with a family member or friend to help out when needed.

8. Finding remote work opportunities

If freelancing doesn’t align with your skills or interests, consider remote work opportunities.

Many companies now offer remote positions in various fields, allowing you to work from home while still enjoying the stability of traditional employment.

9. Crafting an at-home workspace

Creating a dedicated workspace within your home will help you to focus on your freelancing or remote work. Ensure it’s comfortable, organised, and free from distractions.

You could furnish your new workspace with high-quality office furniture with the help of Bedkingdom.co.uk and their impressive selection, which includes desks, storage units, and comfortable chairs. Having a separate workspace helps you mentally transition into “work mode.”

10. Invest in reliable technology

To succeed in freelancing or remote work, you’ll need the right tools.

Top of your list is a reliable computer, high-speed internet, and any software or equipment specific to your field. These investments are essential for delivering quality work.

11. Time for learning and skill enhancement

Freelancers and remote workers often need to stay updated with industry trends and technologies. Set aside time for continuous learning and skill enhancement to remain competitive in your chosen field.

12. Budgeting and finances

As a freelancer, your income may fluctuate, so it’s essential to budget wisely.

Save a portion of your earnings for emergencies, taxes, and future investments. Consider working with a financial advisor to ensure your family’s financial stability.

13. Freelancing contracts and agreements

When taking on freelancing projects, always use written contracts or agreements that outline project scope, timelines, payment terms, and deliverables. Clear agreements protect both you and your clients.

14. Managing client relationships

Effective communication is key to maintaining positive client relationships. Be transparent about your availability and deadlines, and always deliver high-quality work on time.

Happy clients are more likely to provide repeat business and referrals.

15. Balancing parenthood and work

It’s important to acknowledge that parenting and freelancing or remote work can be challenging to balance.

Set realistic expectations for yourself, seek support from your partner or family, and don’t be too hard on yourself when things don’t go as planned.

16. Self-care and wellbeing

Don’t forget to prioritise self-care. Carve out time for relaxation, exercise, and pursuing personal interests. Taking care of your wellbeing ensures you have the energy and motivation to excel in both your professional and parenting roles.

17. Seeking help when needed

If you find yourself overwhelmed or struggling to manage freelancing, remote work, and parenting, consider seeking professional help or counselling. It’s okay to ask for support when you need it.

18. Celebrate your achievements

Recognise and celebrate your successes, no matter how small they may seem.

Each completed project, satisfied client, or personal milestone is a testament to your strength and resilience as a freelancing parent.

19. Building a support network

Connect with other freelancing parents and remote workers for mutual support and advice. Sharing experiences and tips can be invaluable in navigating the challenges and triumphs of this unique lifestyle.

20. Growing as a parent and professional

Remember that being a freelancing parent is an ongoing journey of growth and learning. Embrace the opportunities for personal development and enjoy the flexibility and fulfilment that freelancing and remote work can bring to your life.

21. Handling interruptions gracefully

Working from home as a parent often means you’ll face interruptions. Children might need your attention, whether it’s for a snack, a hug, or help with their schoolwork. It’s essential to handle these interruptions gracefully.

Teach your children about your work hours, and when it’s appropriate to interrupt you. Create a signal or a visual cue to let them know when you’re deep in concentration and shouldn’t be disturbed. Be patient and understanding, recognising that these interruptions are part of the unique juggle of parenting and working from home.

The Final Word

As you embark on this exciting journey of freelancing and remote work, know that you’re not alone. Many stay-at-home parents have successfully balanced these roles, finding fulfilment, independence, and a sense of professional identity while nurturing their families.

With determination, organisation, and a commitment to self-care, you can thrive in this dynamic and rewarding lifestyle.

Propagating begonias is fun, simple, and rewarding, allowing you to expand your collection without the expense of buying new plants.

In this post, I’m going to explain how to multiply begonias by rooting the cuttings or leaves in water or soil, with full step-by-step instructions.

I’ll also list all the essential supplies you’ll need and share my tips for success, helping you propagate your favorite begonia varieties like a pro.

Begonia Propagation Methods

There are three ways you can propagate begonias – you can divide them, grow them from seeds, or take cuttings.

Rooting the stems is the easiest option and works well for all varieties, so that’s the method I’ll explain in more detail.

First, though, let’s take a quick look at each of the three different techniques.

From Cuttings

Rooting cuttings is the method I recommend for propagating begonias because it’s the easiest way to turn one plant into several.

It involves taking and preparing your stem cuttings and then rooting them in either soil or water.

Roots develop from the nodes (the spot where you removed the leaves) in as little as 4 to 6 weeks, and within 2 to 3 months the cuttings should be ready to pot up.

It’s also possible to propagate begonias from a single leaf, but it will take much longer to grow into a full-sized plant.

By Division

You can propagate any type of begonia by division, but this is the most common way to multiply tuberous varieties.

This method involves separating a mature plant into several smaller sections, and then repotting each division into a new container.

For the best chance of success, make sure that each division has a good root system attached.

From Seeds

This is the slowest way to propagate begonias, but it’s fun to give it a try.

To save the seeds, don’t deadhead the flowers. Instead, allow pods to form and dry on the plant, then collect them in a small bag or bowl.

Wait for a calm day to do this – the seeds are so tiny that they’ll easily blow away if it’s windy. Then you can simply sprinkle them over the soil to plant them.

When To Propagate Begonias

The best time to propagate begonias depends on which method you choose to use.

I recommend taking cuttings during the spring or summer, since your begonias are actively growing. Plus the warmth and humidity will give the cuttings a much better chance of rooting quickly and successfully.

Spring is the best time to split mature plants. This will give the divisions enough time to become established before the heat of summer.

Alternatively, you could divide them in the fall once the temperatures have cooled down, which is the best time to do it in warmer climates.

Propagating Begonias From Stem Cuttings

Since rooting stem cuttings is the easiest and most popular way to propagate begonias, I’m going to explain the process step by step.

Before I start, though, let’s look at how to take and prepare your clippings so you’ll have the best chance of success.

How To Take Begonia Stem Cuttings

Before taking your begonia cuttings, find a mature, healthy branch that has plenty of leaves. Avoid any that are thick and woody or thin and leggy.

Take a cutting that’s around 3 to 4 inches long using a clean, sterilized pair of precision pruners or micro-tip snips. Make your cut at a 45° angle right above the next set of lower leaves or a stem joint.

Preparing Begonia Cuttings For Propagation

To prepare your clippings, remove all of the buds and flowers, along with a few of the bottom leaves to expose the nodes. Do this by simply pinching or snipping them off.

Don’t remove all of the leaves, though – your cutting will need some on top to survive.

Related Post: How To Care For Angel Wing Begonia

Propagating Begonia Leaves

If your begonia has larger leaves, then it’s possible to multiply it from a single leaf in either water or soil.

Just bear in mind that it can take a long time to get a full-size plant, and the chance of success is lower.

Still, it’s worth a try using the leaves you removed from your stem cuttings, and it’s fun to see if it works.

How To Take Begonia Leaf Cuttings

Roots can develop from either the base of the petiole (the stalk that joins the leaf to the stem), or from the leaf’s major veins.

Using precision clippers or micro snips, either clip off a mature, healthy leaf and its petiole, or remove the leaf blade only.

Preparing Begonia Leaves For Propagation

If you are propagating a begonia leaf and its petiole, you can go straight to the rooting instructions below.

Otherwise, if you want to try it with the leaf blade only, first cut it into sections and make sure that each one contains a primary vein. Then follow the instructions for rooting them in soil below.

Tips For Propagating Begonias In Water Or Soil

Now that your begonia stem cuttings or leaves are ready for propagation, it’s time to root them in either water or soil.

It’s important to work quickly so that they don’t shrivel or dry out, as this may prevent them from rooting.

Propagating Begonias In Water

To root the stems in water, submerge them in a vase so that the exposed nodes are covered, but the leaves are not. I like using a clear vase for this because it’s fun to watch the roots develop.

Move the vase to a warm, bright place in your home and make sure the water remains clean and topped off. Wait until the roots are 3 to 4 inches long before potting up your new baby.

While it’s quick and easy to propagate begonias in water, the cuttings tend to produce thinner, weaker roots than they do when they’re rooted in soil. This can make water-rooted cuttings vulnerable to severe transplant shock.

Propagating Begonias In Soil

This is the method I recommend for rooting your begonia cuttings because it’s the most reliable and will produce stronger roots.

It may be a little more time-consuming than using a vase of water, but you’ll be rewarded with hardier starts that stand a much greater chance of survival once you pot them up.

For the best results, dip the cut end of them stem into rooting hormone, then plant them a few inches deep in a moisture-retentive lightweight medium.

Move your cuttings to a warm place with lots of indirect light, keeping the soil consistently moist and the air around them humid.

The easiest way to achieve this is to use a propagation chamber, but you could tent a plastic bag over a pot instead. If your home is very cool, consider using a heat mat to speed up the process.

Related Post: Overwintering Begonias: 3 Easy Methods!

How Long Does It Take Begonia Cuttings To Root?

In general it takes around 4 to 6 weeks for begonia cuttings to root. But the exact timing depends on conditions like the temperature and humidity.

If you put them in a clear vase of water, it’s easy to see when the new roots start forming. This can take as little as a few weeks.

If you used soil, you can tell they’re rooted when new leaves start forming on top. Alternatively, you can try gently tugging the cuttings – they shouldn’t move if they have roots.

Why Won’t My Begonia Cuttings Propagate?

There are a few different things that can stop your cuttings from rooting, or slow their progress.

They may not be getting enough warmth or light, in which case you could use a heat mat or a grow light to help things along.

Begonia cuttings need consistent moisture too, so check the soil with a gauge probe, or make sure the stems remain completely submerged if you’re propagating them in water.

The time of year also plays a part, and it can be challenging during the colder months when your plant’s growth naturally slows down.

How To Care For Begonia Cuttings

Your begonia cuttings will need adequate warmth, moisture, and light to survive during propagation.

Keep them in a warm, bright part of your home, but avoid direct sunlight as this can burn the leaves or even bake your cuttings if they’re under plastic.

Make sure the soil doesn’t dry out by keeping the container covered, or mist them daily. If you’re propagating them in water, ensure that the roots are submerged at all times.

How To Pot Up The Rooted Cuttings

Once the roots on your begonia cuttings are around 3 to 4 inches long, it’s time to pot them up.

Take a clean 4 inch pot with drainage holes and fill it with high-quality, pre-moistened potting soil.

Plant the stems at the same depth they were in the water or growing medium and make sure the roots are fully covered.

Press the soil around them gently and water lightly. Place them in a warm, bright location with lots of indirect light, and begin caring for your new babies as you would the mature plant.

Related Post: How To Grow & Care For Begonia Plants

FAQs

Here are my answers to some of the most commonly asked questions about propagating begonias. If you don’t see yours listed, please add in the comments section below.

Do you propagate begonias in water or soil?

You can propagate begonias in either water or soil. Most people prefer to use soil as it encourages more robust roots and gives the new baby plant a better chance of survival.

Can I grow begonias from cuttings?

Yes, you can grow begonias from stem or leaf cuttings by rooting them in either water or soil. It’s easy to do, even if you’re a beginner.

What’s the best way to propagate begonias?

The best way to propagate begonias is to root the cuttings in soil. This is my preferred method, because it gives the cuttings strong roots and the best chances of survival once potted up. But you can easily root them in water if you prefer.

How long does it take begonia cuttings to root in water?

On average, it takes around 4 to 6 weeks for begonia cuttings to root in water. But it take about 2 to 3 months for the roots to get long enough so you can safely pot up your cuttings.

Will begonia cuttings root in water?

Yes, begonia cuttings will root in water pretty quickly. But the roots tend to be weaker than they are when you propagate them in soil, so there’s a higher risk of severe transplant shock.

Where do you cut begonias to propagate?

You can cut begonias to propagate anywhere on a mature, healthy stem. Make your cut right above a lower leaf or stem joint, and ensure your clippings contain several leaves. If you are rooting a single leaf, clip off the leaf and its stem, or remove just the blade.

More About Plant Propagation

Share your tips for how to propagate begonias in the comments section below.

Step By Step Instructions

It can also carry dormant forms of plant pathogens that cause disease.

Plant diseases caused by pathogens are becoming more variable around the world, partly due to an increasingly fluctuating climate.

In my lab at The Ohio State University, we study species of the water mold Phytophthora, which often produce spores that can overwinter, becoming nearly impossible to obliterate from affected fields.

Many other pathogens evolved similar tactics for persisting outside of hosts. These adaptations can potentially allow pathogens to persist in compost.

On the other hand, some methods can help control pathogens. It can quell numbers of pathogens so they’re reduced to undetectable levels, depending on the species.

There are far too many plant pathogens around the globe to cover in a single article! I will tell you about some common species, and whether to address these pathogens with compost.

Here are four broad kinds of pathogens and their general symptoms, followed by ways that compost can change the spread:

Oomycetes

Mildews and many root, stem, and fruit rots are caused by microorganisms called oomycetes. They are related to algae, and are often called “water molds.”

Diseases caused by oomycetes can look like fungal diseases.

Common oomycetes include Phytophthora, Pseudoperonospora, and Pythium species, which have incredibly wide host ranges around the globe. Most crop species are affected by at least one of these three genera.

Downy mildews are caused mainly when spores splash onto leaves with rain. Stem and root rots mainly occur when plant parts contact contaminated soil.

Downy mildews on foliage are visible to the eye because of their sporangia, which appears as a white, fuzzy coating on bottoms of leaves, and corresponding oil spots on the tops of leaves.

Leaf blights from oomycetes cause wilting and brown, necrotic hard spots on leaves. Stem and root rots are usually dark and necrotic, and possibly wet to the touch.

Phytophthora species form thick-walled, overwintering bodies called oospores, which can persist in soils for years, and can even be transmitted via natural water bodies that could possibly come in contact with your garden.

Oospores of other oomycetes have similar durability. These oospores can potentially persist in compost.

Systems in more temperate climates are more likely to allow oomycete spores to develop into their overwintering phase, compared to compost that is kept at warmer temperatures.

There is research about different methods on suppression of oomycete species.

In a study on rooibos, published by the The American Phytopathological Society, composting suppressed damping off from about half of the oomycete isolates tested, depending on the species and source.

In another study, damping off in cucumbers was reduced when crops were treated with water extracted from chitin-based compost.

Based on those two studies, composting can have a mild to moderate role in reducing oomycete inoculum. Hot is more effective than cold, so if you are adding plant tissue infected by oomycetes, consider covering your pile with plastic or a lid to increase the temperature.

Anaerobic soil disinfestation is shown to be highly effective in eliminating Phytophthora and Pythium.

You can apply this principle to your composting practice by ensuring an anaerobic environment, by covering the pile to increase temperature and keeping it moist.

If you continue to see signs of the same oomycete-caused disease the next season, then it’s best to dispose of diseased tissue instead.

Viruses

Viruses on plants have a unique appearance compared to other microbial pathogens.

Other types of pathogens like water molds, fungi, and bacteria often lead to clear signs of decomposition, and can have specially evolved overwintering forms.

Viruses, on the other hand, can often change the shape and growth pattern, and usually do not develop a dormant body.

Mosaic, mottle, and necrotic viruses are visual categories of plant viruses that can be caused by the same groups of viruses, presenting differently depending on the host genetics.

Mosaic viruses cause a coloration pattern that resembles a web. Usually, mosaic viruses cause chlorosis (yellowing) along the veins in leaves, revealing this web-like pattern. Most viruses also cause unusual curling of leaf edges, and overall misshapen plants.

Two of the most common plant viruses are tobacco mosaic virus (TMV) and tomato mosaic virus (ToMV).

Tobacco Mosaic Virus

TMV is possibly the most common plant virus worldwide, infecting over 300 species.

It is spread mechanically by infected sap that comes into contact with tools, hands, and materials, as well as by seed.

Tobacco mosaic virus is quite stable, and using tissues infected with TMV in compost is not recommended.

Tomato Mosaic Virus

Tomato mosaic virus is also transmitted mechanically and by seed, as well as by aphids and other sap-feeding insects.

Infected specimens generally have stunted growth, curly leaves, and a light grayish-green mosaic pattern on the leaves that can turn yellow. The discoloration appears blotchy, often bordered by leaf veins.

ToMV affects all solanaceous crops like tomatoes and peppers, but also certain ornamental species as well.

Luckily, ToMV has been shown to be unstable over long periods of time without a host. It easily degrades after 75 days of composting, even at colder temperatures.

Other Viruses

Depending on the virus, drying of plant material may or may not eradicate it. For example, leaf drying can reduce the infectivity of melon necrotic spot virus (MNSV) but not pepper mild mottle virus (PMMV).

Luckily, composting with irrigation and solarization can often achieve complete eradication of MNSV and PMMV, as well as potato virus Y.

Fungi

Fungal pathogens can present themselves in hugely diverse ways.

Fungi that infect plants can be species that are single-celled, filamentous, or even fruiting bodies like mushrooms.

And their strategies for persisting outside of the host can change from species to species.

Fungal diseases include types of rot, powdery mildew, rust, mold, and wilt.

Fungal Spots and Blights

Leaf and fruit spot are terms used to describe the appearance of fungal diseases as literal “spots” on tissue.

These spots can spread and cause necrosis of tissue, thereby becoming leaf and fruit “blight.”

There are hundreds of thousands of fungal species that cause spotting.

Two common groups of spotting fungi are Alternaria and Anthracnose species. There is little to no research on the survival of Alternaria and Anthracnose in compost systems to date.

Since many fungal spotting species produce overwintering thick-walled structures, it is best to limit placing infected materials in your compost.

Fungal Rots

Rots caused by fungi, such as fruit, stem, or root rot, appear clearly more decomposed and watery than spots or blights. Plants infected with rots will have extensive areas of dead tissue that are often squishy.

Rots can turn into cankers if the plant forms a callus over the affected area.

A common fungal species that causes tissue rots is Rhizoctonia solani. This species has an incredibly wide host range and a worldwide distribution, infecting plants ranging from tomatoes to orchids to trees.

The species produces durable, over-wintering microscopic bodies called sclerotia.

Luckily, several studies suggest that some systems can eradicate R. solani to undetectable levels, as well as for other fungal rotting species, such as Sclerotinia rolfsii and S. minor.

Although, the specific composting methods that are best for suppressing each species may differ.

Fortunately anaerobic methods has been shown to significantly reduce Sclerotinia and Rhizoctonia inoculum.

If you identify fungal rot on your plants, I would try composting them covered and irrigated for several weeks.

Powdery Mildews

Powdery mildews tend to be powdery in appearance, and often appear on the tops of leaves. They can be confused with downy mildew, which is caused by oomycetes.

Powdery mildews tend to occur in drier conditions than downy mildews.

In cucurbits and some other fruits like strawberries, powdery mildew is caused by Podosphaera xanthii.

Podosphaera xanthii can produce overwintering spore-like structures called chasmothecia, which persist in soils for many seasons on plant residue.

Unfortunately, there is little research available to date about the presence of this particular pathogen in compost, nor is there for the many other causal agents of powdery mildew on other crops.

It is safer to avoid putting powdery mildew infected tissues in your compost.

You can also try a Trichoderma treatment in your pile. Trichoderma is a genus of fungi known to reduce plant disease. It has been shown to reduce Podosphaera inoculum in soil.

Rusts

Rusts are diseases caused by species of Puccinia and Uromyces, with a notable appearance of raised, small, round, brown bumps on leaves called pustules.

The life cycle of rusts is very complex, and can include up to five different spore stages! Many can even utilize alternative hosts while awaiting the availability of their main host.

Teliospores are very thick-walled, durable overwintering spores that are occasionally produced.

There are few to no studies about the viability of teliospores in compost systems. One rust species, Puccinia horiana, might be able to survive the composting process.

If your plants are infected with rust, I would advise that you dispose of them instead.

Wilts

Wilts are plant diseases with a prominent symptom of, well, wilting!

One of the most common fungal wilts is caused by the species Fusarium oxysporum. This is a filamentous fungus that overwinters via structures called chlamydospores, or even as live hyphae in the soil.

Composting, specifically with green waste biochar, can possibly have a role in reducing viable chlamydospores in the Fusarium–tomato pathosystem.

However, one study suggests that full eradication of F. oxysporum isolates in compost may be difficult.

Another very common wilt is called Verticillium wilt, caused by six species in the Verticillium genus. Cotton, oilseed rape, eggplant, tomato, peppers, and potatoes are commonly affected.

In 2020 at California Polytechnic State University, A Verticillium species was examined in petri dishes for growth with different compost amendments, and it was noted that it moderately suppressed growth of the pathogen.

However, results in the field showed that these amendments did not decrease disease overall.

Therefore, proceed with caution when composting plants diseased with wilt. If you do wish to, make sure to keep the pile wet and covered for several weeks.

Bacteria

Plant pathogenic bacteria differ from fungi, oomycetes, and viruses in that they do not enter actual cells. Instead, they invade the space between cells.

This has caused pathogenic bacteria to evolve hugely diverse methods for infecting their hosts.

Bacterial infections on plants can cause blights, cankers, galls, leaf spots, soft rots, and stem spots.

Here are two common bacterial genera that infect plants, with different strategies for infection and survival: Xanthomonas and Pseudomonas.

Xanthomonas

The Xanthomonas genus contains species of bacteria that can infect over 400 species. These include artichokes, dandelions, cabbage, peppers, rice, bananas, and the list goes on.

One study found that some types of compost were effective in suppressing Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria in tomato plants, likely due to the beneficial microbes in the process.

In particular, agroindustrial subproducts-based compost was the effective treatment. Sterilized compost did not suppress the pathogen.

Pseudomonas and others

Pseudomonas syringae is one of the oldest-known and most well-studied pathogens, infecting primarily woody plants.

Composting was found to effectively eradicate Pseudomonas syringae pv. actinidiae on kiwifruit plants.

In another study, researchers found that their particular process was effective in suppressing Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria, Pseudomonas syringae pv. syringae, and another bacterial plant pathogen, Erwinia carotovora subsp. carotovora.

It might be okay to include plant tissues with X. campestris pv. versicataria, P. syringae pv. syringae, and E. carotovora subsp. carotovora in your compost, especially if your pile is hot.

Beneficial bacteria are very important when it comes to quelling pathogenic bacteria in soils.

I would recommend possibly adding Trichoderma or other biocontrol bacterial agents to your compost if you wish to add tissue infected with bacterial disease.

Mainland UK is home to many natural treasures. While many are world-famous and are visited by millions of people each year, there are several that many haven’t even heard of, including some locals.

Here are a few of the best natural hidden gems you need to visit in the UK.

Gaping Gill Cave

The Yorkshire Dales is home to some of the most magnificent natural locations in the country. While they are popular with tourists year-round, many miss out on seeing one of the best sights: Gaping Gill Cave.

While it’s not something you will see driving past or from the air in a private jet charter, Gaping Gill Cave is breathtaking. You have to see it to believe it – and if you go at the right time of the year, you can be winched down the 98 metres for a truly unforgettable experience.

Owler Tor

If you take a short drive or train from Sheffield, you will find the magical Owler Tor. While the Peak District itself is something everyone should visit, Owler Tor is its crown jewel.

You need to hike up to reach it, but it ‘s well worth the effort. The gritstone caps, lush greenery, and spectacular views almost make you feel like you have travelled back in time. It’s best to visit in the warmer months, as there is arguably no better place to have breakfast and watch the sunrise.

The Seven Sisters

While not a hidden gem to many locals, the Seven Sisters are an often overlooked stop for many tourists. Located on the English channel coast of East Sussex, they’re a series of chalk sea cliffs situated next to each other.

The Seven Sisters are also the central point of the Seven Sisters Country Park, which includes swathes of the surrounding countryside.

Malham Cove

If you are an eagle-eyed fan of the Harry Potter series, Malham Cove will be a familiar sight. It was where Harry and Hermione camped while on the run in Deathly Hallows Part 1, and it has also been a relatively popular tourist spot for many people for centuries.

While this may make Malham Cove sound like it isn’t a “natural hidden gem”, it is still a reasonably unknown spot for many visitors. If you aren’t satisfied with looking at it from its base, you can hike to the top for jaw-dropping views of the surrounding area.

Scafell Pike

At a towering 978m, Scafell Pike is the tallest mountain in England. Found in the Southern Fells of Cumbria, Scafell Pike is not only one of the most gorgeous sites in England, but is also part of a unique hiking challenge. Many hikers worldwide climb it each year as part of the Three Peaks Challenge, which sees them attempt to climb Scafell Pike, Ben Nevis, and Snowdon in 24 hours or less.

The Major Oak

The Major Oak is entrenched in the natural history of England, and steeped in some very famous folklore.

Found in the heart of Sherwood Forest, the Major Oak is said to be around 1000 years old and, according to legend, was often used as a sleeping spot for a famous outlaw. It is said that none other than Robin Hood would rest under its sprawling branches after a day of adventure. While it may be a fairytale, the old oak exudes some Robin Hood magic you can’t ignore.

High Force

While its name may make you think of a high-powered car or boat, High Force is an incredible waterfall that you can find in County Durham. If seeing the waterfall isn’t enough, you can start at the top of the river, leading to the gushing waterfall at the bottom.

You can visit High Force year-round. In winter the waterfall can be seriously impressive, and sometimes even frozen.it can freeze during winter. In summer, it’s a popular spot for locals and visitors to cool off.

Durdle Door

Finally, the Durdle Door is another spot not unknown to locals, but one you could easily miss if you don’t make an effort to see it. Found in Dorset, Durdle Door is a natural archway located just off the beach on the ancient Jurassic Coast.

Durdle Door isn’t the only thing you can find in the area either. There are countless fossils to be found on the beach due to the erosion of the rock walls surrounding the area. Don’t be surprised if you leave the coast with an ancient ammonite fossil or two, or possibly something more significant and much rarer.

While there are dozens of more natural hidden gems you should visit in the UK, these are some of the best. No trip to the UK is complete without checking a few of them off; every single one is worth the time and effort.

2. Using the knife or the pruners, make a clean cut to remove the cutting without damaging other possible cuttings. As you continue to take cuttings, make sure to dip or wipe your knife or pruners in a 10 percent bleach solution between cuts.

3. Once you have your cuttings, remove any blooms or leaf buds that look like they could be flowers.

4. Trim the bottom of the stem on an angle so that the entire cutting is about six inches long.

5. Using scissors, trim back the leaves about a third to relieve stress on the cutting. Less leaf coverage means less work for the plant and allows it to focus on growing roots.

How do you root the cuttings?

There are two ways. The easiest is to plop them in a glass jar with water and place it in a bright window, out of direct sunlight. Your cuttings just went through quite a bit and are in a fragile state. No direct sun for them at this time. Change the water daily.

The other option is using sterile potting soil and rooting hormone. Rooting hormone is just that—a product that helps plants make roots.

After you have your cuttings, fill small growing pots with soil. The soil should be damp. Make a hole with a stick or your finger to receive the cutting. Dip the cutting in the rooting hormone, about an inch deep, and insert it in the hole. Tap the soil down around the cutting.

One more additional step may be needed. Since winter indoor heating tends to be dry and overall humidity levels are low, you can cover the now potted cuttings with a plastic bag to increase humidity. This process can yield faster results but needs more attention. You need to make sure the soil never dries out or becomes too wet. You have to monitor for fungus infections. You can’t let the plastic bag touch the leaves. The plastic bag can be removed after a week to 10 days depending on how dry your home is.

How to tell when you’ve succeeded?

For the ones propagated in water—it’s easy! Once you see the roots, move them into soil-filled pots, avoiding direct sunlight for a week or so. Moving them into pots can cause root damage, so be extra kind to them for a week or so.

For the ones in the soil. The most obvious sign is new top growth. However, if it’s been a while without new growth, check with a gentle tug on the stem. If a very gentle tug on the stem is met with resistance, you have roots.

Finally remember the amount of light inside is remarkably less than what your plants were used to inside. They may show their unhappiness by dropping leaves. This is normal. Give them time and and some TLC, and they will recover.

See also:

(Visited 4 times, 2 visits today)

Today we’re visiting with Rachel, a gardener and artist living in Elgin, Illinois (Zone 5b). She moved in 2022 to 1.5 acres and is in the process of designing and planting a fabulous front garden. She’s also diving into forest restoration for the back half-acre—making it beautiful for wildlife and her kiddos.

She also visits and draws beautiful gardens whenever she can, and designs and installs gardens for clients.

It is the question every gardener gets asked: What’s your favorite plant? Rachel says hers is probably nasturtium (Tropaeolu majus, Zones 9–11 or as an annual). She loves it because the big seeds are easy to sow; it’s easy for her kids to handle and help plant; it vines and trails, helping to pull a new garden together; and every part of the plant is edible.

Rachel took a trip to Longwood Gardens in Pennsylvania recently and sketched some of the beautiful garden sights she took in.

This spot of Rachel’s garden is starting to come together. It has been a difficult spot because of her clay soil, but mulch has improved conditions, and things are starting to thrive.

The kids make tiny houses while Rachel pulls out invasive weeds to help the forest thrive. She says that the time spent out in nature is so worth it, even with the checks for ticks and showers in case of poison ivy.

Rachel holds a stunning gladiolus (Gladiolus hybrid, Zones 9–11 or as a tender bulb). It’s amazing how something so gorgeous can grow from a small, unassuming corm.

Speaking of growing something wonderful from something unassuming, here’s a shot from February of winter sowing—seeds of native perennials, planted out. The cold weather will signal the seeds to germinate come spring, and the old milk cartons give them protection.

Fast-forward to May. The seeds have germinated and the milk jugs are full of seedlings. Winter sowing is an easy, cost-effective way to get lots of new plants for your garden.

A sweet, fragrant little bouquet of sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus, annual) adds some perfume to the work space. Rachel says to remember to cut the flowers from your sweet peas so they’ll keep blooming. If you let them go to seed, they’ll fizzle out and stop flowering.

Summer is Rachel’s happiest time. It’s easy to see why from this beautiful scene of coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea, Zones 3–8) and ornamental onions (Allium hybrid, Zones 4–8) from August.

The big bold leaves of common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca, Zones 5–9) look great in the garden, and there is a little monarch butterfly caterpillar chomping away on them.

In spring these cool-season flowers in a planter really showed off: pansies (Viola × wittrockiana, cool-season annual or short-lived perennial), ranunculus (Ranunculus asiaticus, Zones 8–11 or as an annual), and a some grape hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum, Zones 3–9).

If you want to see more from Rachel, check out her Instagram: @gardenrach

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Here’s a preview of what I’ll be covering in this article:

Now hop on my magic tapestry and let’s explore ‘Walbuma’ together!

What Is Magic Carpet Spirea?

Spiraea japonica ‘Walbuma’ is a Japanese spirea cultivar, commonly known as Magic Carpet spirea. As with all spireas, this delightful plant is a member of the Rosaceae family.

The Spiraea genus is a vast one, hosting at least 80 species and this dainty darling is a cultivar of the Japanese spirea. S. japonica.

Magic Carpet spirea is quite the adaptable plant. It’s hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8, so it can survive in regions where temperatures can drop as low as -40°F.

What makes this plant stand out in the crowd of other Japanese spireas? Unlike some of its taller cousins, Magic Carpet spirea stays relatively low to the ground, topping out at just two feet tall at maturity.

Reaching a maximum spread of three feet, while maintaining a somewhat rounded shape, this plant is a good choice for borders or for growing as a colorful ground cover.

The color transformation of this plant is as magical as its name suggests. The ovate leaves emerge in spring with a fiery red tint.

As summer approaches, the foliage gradually shifts to a sunlit yellow, yet retains subtle hints of red, especially in the younger growth.

This vibrant foliage is complemented by its signature flower display – delicate deep pink flat-topped clusters, or corymbs, that begin to bloom in June, creating a delightful contrast.

Although the flowers fade after the initial bloom, this plant may produce random, intermittent repeat flowers. And, with deadheading and pruning, you can sometimes coax more blooms out of hiding.

Heading into fall, blooming comes to a halt and the foliage begins to change to a festive dark brown color with a tinge of reddish-orange. Come winter, the leaves fall, exposing thin wiry branches, perfect for collecting fallen snow and adding visual interest to the winter garden.

In essence, Magic Carpet spirea is a carefully cultivated masterpiece that brings a burst of color and life to gardens, setting itself apart from other plants in the garden with its unique growth habit, vibrant hues, and seasonal interest.

Before we delve into more detail, it is worth mentioning that S. japonica has been identified by the United States Department of Agriculture as an emerging invasive in some parts of the country.

S. japonica has escaped gardens and naturalized in areas of the eastern United States and up into Canada.

At the time of writing this article, it has not been banned in any states, but it is a wise idea to investigate your local rules and regulations before purchasing and planting this species.

While many S. japonica cultivars are sterile, Magic Carpet can be an aggressive self-seeder. It also produces suckers that contribute to its spread.

In Zone 5b, I have not personally experienced issues with the spread of my own Magic Carpet shrubs to date. So, for now, I plan to admire and enjoy my beautiful and forgiving, low-maintenance Magic Carpet spireas, and I hope you will too. 

If you’re looking to add a touch of magic to your garden, this spirea might just be the spell you need!

Cultivation and History

The Magic Carpet spirea is the result of a meticulous breeding and selection process.

This plant breeding program at the Walberton Nursery in the UK, was led by chemist and plant breeder, David R. Tristram, and involved several thousand plants.

The process started with self-pollinated seeds from S. japonica ‘Goldflame.’ The best plants from the first batch were then chosen and self-pollinated again. This cycle repeated, and by the third generation, the cultivar ‘Walbuma’ was achieved.

So, the Magic Carpet spirea is not just a product of the wonders of nature, but of carefully managed science. As with many botanical breeding achievements, it’s another testament to the dedication and expertise of its breeder and the wonders of botany.

The marketing name, Magic Carpet, aptly captures the vibrant and enchanting characteristics of the plant. The name evokes images of a colorful, magical journey, much like the flying carpet from tales of Aladdin.

Given the plant’s bright colors and its ability to transform landscapes, the name seems fitting, suggesting that this plant can whisk gardeners away on a horticultural adventure.

And I’ll admit – it was this name that first captured my attention when I purchased it. I mean who could resist?

Now let’s take a look at propagating this shrub ourselves, shall we?

Magic Carpet Spirea Propagation

‘Walbuma’ can be propagated through various methods. It is possible to start from seed, but saved seeds will not grow true to the parent plant, so let’s explore other options.

In spring, you can take softwood cuttings from new growth. As summer progresses, semi-ripe cuttings taken from where the shoot base becomes woody but the tip remains soft, are preferred.

Come winter, when the plant is dormant, hardwood cuttings from mature stems can be used.

A technique called layering is another option. To do this, you simply bend a flexible branch from your mature shrub down toward the soil, ensuring it makes good contact with the ground.

Use a stake to hold the branch in place, make sure it’s kept watered, and soon it will begin to form roots. Once it’s established, clip it free from the parent plant, and say hello to your new baby!

To learn more about propagating spirea from cuttings or layering, visit our guide.

It’s possible to divide a mature spirea. I’ve done it, but I’ve lost a few shrubs this way. For me, gardening is about learning and pushing boundaries, so with a dozen or more of a particular plant, sometimes I try things just to test its limits.

You can try it too but remember that it’s risky and not the most favored technique as mature spireas possess a thick root system, making the division a tad challenging.

You can learn more about dividing perennials in our guide.

Among the various propagation methods, taking cuttings is the easiest for spireas.

The fastest and easiest way to get your very own new Magic Carpet spirea is to purchase a container-grown or bare root plant from a nursery or garden center.

Whether you’ve obtained your new plant from cuttings, layering, or as a nursery start, the next part of the process is giving that plant a new home. Let’s look at the steps for transplanting.

Transplanting

Transplanting ‘Walbuma’ is a breeze. Plan to transplant these new shrubs in either spring or fall.

Nestle your spirea into its new home, ensuring the top of the root ball is level with the neighboring earth.

Fill in the hole, tamping it softly as you go to keep any sneaky air gaps at bay.

With your spirea snugly tucked in, drench the new planting with water to force out any remaining air pockets and help the soil cozy up to the roots.

The last step I recommend is adding a one- to two-inch layer of organic mulch.

This helps to protect vulnerable roots, especially with new plants as they work to become established. Mulching helps to retain moisture within the soil and slow evaporation.

How to Grow Magic Carpet Spirea

Now that you know how to plant this beauty, let’s give it a charmed life. Here’s everything you need to know to keep it healthy and looking great.

Magic Carpet thrives in locations that receive full sun, but it’s also tolerant of partial shade. This adaptability makes it a versatile choice for various garden spots. Aim to space these shrubs three to six feet apart to allow ample room to spread.

As I mentioned, it’s hardy in Zones 3 to 8, making it suitable for a wide range of North American gardens.

Like other types of spirea, these shrubs are known for their adaptability. But they still prefer well-drained soil. Leaving your shrub to sit in waterlogged conditions will encourage less than magical results.

To produce the healthiest foliage and flowers, these shrubs prefer moist, well-draining, loamy soil with a pH level of 6.5 to 7.5. But whether you have loam, sand, clay, or chalky soil, this plant can manage.

This shrub isn’t overly thirsty. Regular watering, in the absence of rain, during the first year of growth is crucial. Once established, it can handle occasional droughts, but it’s always a good idea to keep the soil consistently moist, especially during dry spells.

You can easily check the moisture by poking a finger into the soil around the root zone of your shrub. If you feel moisture within the top two inches of the soil you can skip watering and check again in a few days.

If the soil is dry, water deeply at the ground level near the base of the plant.

If you’re blessed with some organic matter like well-rotted manure, mixing a scoop into the top two inches of soil around the base of the plant in spring can give it an added boost to produce more abundant blooms. But even without it, the spirea will still put on a good show.

Alternatively, an annual application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring can help it start the season with vigor.

If you’ve added organic matter to the soil, you might not need to fertilize as often. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when applying any fertilizer to avoid overfeeding.

With these guidelines in mind, your Magic Carpet spirea is set to dazzle and thrive in your garden!

Growing Tips

• Plant in well-draining soil.
• Position new plantings in full sun to part shade.
• Water consistently and avoid overwatering.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning is an essential aspect of maintaining the vibrant appearance and health of ‘Walbuma.’

One of the delightful characteristics of this spirea is its ability to bloom more than once in a season.

To encourage a second flush of blooms, consider a light pruning, or deadheading of flowers, right after the first blooms are spent. With this shrub, this deadheading and pruning can be accomplished at the same time by shearing the whole shrub with long hedge trimmers.

Carefully shear off the outer one to three inches at once. This not only rejuvenates the plant but also encourages more abundant new blossoms to grace your garden later in the season.

While light pruning is beneficial for promoting blooms, there are times when a more substantial trim might be in order.

If your spirea starts to look a bit overgrown or loses its compact shape with a few branches growing taller or more lopsided than the others, don’t hesitate to give it a more thorough trim.

The best time for this more significant pruning is in late winter or very early spring before flower buds form.

When undertaking this task, always use sharp pruning shears to make clean cuts. Remove any dead or damaged branches first, cutting as close to the base of the plant as possible to keep a tidy, compact, and mounded form.

Japanese spireas in general are resilient, so if your shrub has grown completely out of control, remember that even if you cut back quite a bit, it should bounce back with vigor.

You can safely take this shrub down by one third of its size in late winter or early spring before flower buds form, and it will quickly fill out the same season with new growth and flowers.

If your bush has grown completely out of control and becomes unruly, it can be cut closer to the ground. This will completely rejuvenate the plant, but it will also leave an empty space in your landscape design as it fills back in, which could take two to three years.

To learn more, read our guide to pruning spirea.

Another thing about maintaining your new shrub: if you notice weeds creeping into your garden bed, yank those undesirable plants out – at least from the immediate area of your shrub and other plants.

Weeds compete with vital moisture and nutrients your plants need to survive, so removing them on a regular basis is vital to their health.

To round out maintenance topics, let’s review mulching and winter care for ‘Walbuma.’ If you followed the transplanting steps above, you may already have applied a layer of mulch. But let’s explore the purpose for this a little further.

Mulching serves multiple purposes. It not only helps retain soil moisture but also keeps pesky weeds at bay. By adding a layer of mulch around the base of your spirea, you’re also providing a protective barrier that shields the plant’s roots from extreme temperature fluctuations.

This is especially beneficial during those scorching summer days or chilly winter nights. When mulching, opt for organic materials like wood chips or bark, spreading them evenly around the plant but ensuring they don’t touch the stem to prevent rot.

While Magic Carpet spirea is hardy and can withstand the cold temperatures of Zones 3 to 8, a little extra care during winter can go a long way.

Remember, a healthy plant is often the best defense against potential diseases. By maintaining optimal growing conditions and being vigilant, you can ensure your ‘Walbuma’ remains a vibrant and thriving addition to your garden.

Herbivores usually steer clear of these shrubs, but if they’re particularly hungry, they might take a nibble from the spirea salad bar. If you notice an unusual amount of damage from deer or rabbits, consider protecting your bushes with some deer fencing or chicken wire.

When it comes to pests, keep a look out for aphids, leafrollers, and scale insects. I always recommend a holistic approach, using natural and biological control methods first, as opposed to chemicals, to battle insect infestations.

Try insecticidal soap, neem oil, or microbial insecticides like Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). You can introduce natural predators like ladybugs, tachinid flies, and lacewing larvae.

Manual removal and pruning of any affected foliage are also oftentimes effective.

In my own gardens, I have attracted and encouraged the presence of predatory insects to control unwanted insect pests by planting pollinator-friendly species.

Like other Japanese spireas, Magic Carpet can occasionally be susceptible to diseases such as gray mold, fire blight, powdery mildew, root rot, and verticillium wilt. These ailments manifest in various ways, including wilting and discoloration of the foliage.

To ensure the health and vitality of your spirea, it’s essential to adopt preventative measures. Regularly inspect your plant for early signs of these insects and diseases.

Encourage adequate air circulation with proper spacing and avoid overhead watering, which can encourage disease.

Take a look at our Japanese spirea growing guide for more detailed information about these pests and diseases, and how to control them.

Best Uses for Magic Carpet Spirea

Magic Carpet spirea is a versatile landscape plant.

With its vibrant foliage that transitions from fiery red in spring to a golden hue in summer, topped with clusters of deep pink flowers, it’s a three-season visual treat for any garden.

Let’s not forget about the value of its winter interest! The bare, wiry branches can capture snowfall making for a cold weather garden display.

Ideally suited for mixed borders, this low-growing deciduous shrub thrives in full sun or light shade, making it a perfect choice for patios, city courtyards, and cottage gardens.

Its compact and bushy growth habit allows it to fit seamlessly into flower beds, adding a splash of color and texture. Moreover, it’s not just about aesthetics; this spirea cultivar is tolerant of a variety of growing conditions, making it easy to cultivate and care for.

In whatever application you’re planning for, Magic Carpet incorporates a delightful blend of beauty and resilience, ensuring your garden remains lively and colorful throughout the seasons.

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Family portraits have come a long way from the fixed smiles and coordinated outfits that many of us remember from our childhoods.

Gone are the days of being herded into a studio and holding a grin until your cheeks ache. Now, the candid, the spontaneous, and the heartwarming take centre stage.

Let’s take a look at how you can turn your everyday snapshots into personalised prints that truly capture the spirit of your family.

The shift from traditional to modern family portraits

Remember the days when a family portrait meant a trip to a professional studio, complete with backdrops that looked like a Windows 95 screensaver? Let’s be honest, those portraits could be on the dull side.

The beauty of modern family portraits is that they capture the essence of your clan without the need for a studio. With the rise of smartphones and high-quality cameras, you can now snap a memorable family photo while you’re on a hike in the Lake District or gathered for a lazy Sunday roast.

Whether it’s a piece of wall art, a photo cushion, or even a picnic blanket, you now have myriad options to bring your cherished snapshots into your daily life.

The importance of capturing candid moments

There’s something magical about candid photos. Maybe it’s the genuine smiles, the hearty laughs, that impromptu cuddle your toddler gives the family dog… candid moments offer a slice of life, a snapshot of reality that staged photos often miss.

So, how do you capture these golden moments? First, keep your camera or smartphone handy. You never know when the perfect photo opp will arise. Second, embrace the imperfections. Whether it’s an unexpected laugh or a stray hair across a face, these quirks can add unique charm to your photos.

The world of personalised prints

Got a collection of family moments that are too good to keep hidden in your phone? Welcome to the world of personalised prints, where the options are tailored to fit every family’s needs.

Canvas prints are a go-to option here, and for good reason; they offer a timeless look that can seamlessly blend in with any room’s decor.

Photo books are another fantastic choice, especially if you love the idea of having a tangible keepsake to leaf through during family gatherings. And let’s not forget about home textiles, like cushions or blankets – nowadays it’s easy to get them printed with your favourite photos.

Creative ideas for displaying your personalised prints

When you’ve got some top-quality prints of your precious family moments, you’ll want to put them on display – and sticking them on the fridge next to the takeaway menus isn’t going to cut it.

For wall art, consider creating a thematic arrangement that tells a story or follows a colour scheme, turning a blank wall into a visual narrative of your family’s journey. Another idea is to integrate your canvas prints into a larger interior design concept, perhaps as a focal point above a fireplace or as a complement to a statement piece of furniture.

Home textiles like photo cushions or blankets can be strategically placed to enhance both comfort and aesthetics. A photo cushion could take pride of place on your favourite armchair, while a photo blanket could be elegantly draped over the back of a sofa.

Making it a family affair

Involving the whole family in the process makes for some fun quality time. Let the kids pick their favourite photos, or have them help design a photo book.

The environmental aspect

We’re all trying to do our bit for the planet. So when choosing your prints, look for companies that use sustainable materials – making their frames from recycled plastic, for example – or offer eco-friendly solvent-free inks. It might be a small step, but it’s a small step in the right direction.

Conclusion

Gone are the days when the family portrait was a formal affair, reserved for special occasions. Today’s family portraits are candid, spontaneous, and as unique as your family. So go ahead, turn those everyday snapshots into personalised prints that you’ll cherish for years to come.

Recently I posted on four ways you can start a new garden by removing your lawn organically.

Then I thought, “Hey, this isn’t a bad post at all… it would make a good video!” So my wife and I filmed it, expanding the list to five methods, and we even threw in a bonus sixth method.

In the comments, there were a few more good – or at least interesting – suggestions on removing a lawn and starting a garden, such as “hire teenagers to dig it” and “burn brush over the lawn and then plant.”

We’ve done both successfully, though the latter method can have its problems. We once burned a fire in our Tennessee yard and it stayed a bare spot for multiple years. If you are going to burn off the lawn, it makes sense to do so with enough fuel (autumn leaves work well) that you can kill the grass, but not so much fuel that you torch the ground beneath so thoroughly that it destroys all life. Though the death of that one area might have been because we burned over hard clay, possibly half turning it into brick.

Burned areas often grow back very nicely as the ashes and charcoal feed the next crops. I visited one couple who had cleared the woods around their house and replaced it with a large lawn and pasture. The homeowner pointed out multiple dark green areas in the grass where he had burned piles of trees years before. Even after almost a decade, they were still maintaining fertility. This was a sandy area in North Florida, however, and not the hard rocky clay of Tennessee.

Seeing such long-term improvements in fertility does tend to support our biochar/terra preta experiments.

As for method #6, using animals to clear ground, you can see a good example in Flannel Farms’ recent video:

Have a great Monday. We are working to prepare for SCRUBFEST II at the end of the week. Maybe we’ll get to see you there.

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Whether you want to make keepsake tags that also double as Christmas tree ornaments or embellish a tag with someone’s initials for their birthday, these DIY gift tags can also become keepsakes. Personalize your presents with this clay gift tag tutorial.

Gifting season is upon us! Every year, I make homemade gifts, and they’re always a huge success. When I see someone smile after opening the gift, I can’t help but smile too.

The difference between a homemade gift looking good versus looking so good they can’t believe you made it is all in the wrapping and presentation.

These DIY gift tags made of clay are really the cherry on top. I press them with leaves and flowers from my garden, so every one of them is unique and has a touch of me. I’m always game to pass on the beauty of my garden!

As a craft project, these clay gift tags are super simple to make. They require no oven or kiln. So, let’s roll up our sleeves and get crafty this gifting season.

This post will cover…

Making them out of clay means that they won’t be like a classic paper gift tag. Instead, they’re a way to add decoration to your wrapping.

They become part of the gift themselves as a keepsake. After opening the gift, people can use them as an ornament, key chain, wall décor, or whatever else they enjoy!

If you want to customize them with names or letters, you can use stamps to add in the initial or name of the recipient of the gift tag. You can also use the pointy end of your bamboo skewer to write on the back, carefully etching in letters without ruining the design on the front.

What I love about these DIY gift tags is that they can be used any time of year. Depending on how you make them, you can use them as DIY Christmas gift tags or for birthdays and other special events. They’re timeless and easy to change based on the occasion.

Materials

Make It!

To keep things simple, I used air dry clay for this project. It can come in many different colours, so you can choose whichever one you like best. If you plan on painting them, white clay is a good choice as it’s easy to go over in paint.

For my DIY gift tags, I used a natural terracotta colouring.

I use dental floss to help cut off some clay from the slab. Wrap the floss around your fingers and then pull the floss through the clay to cut it.

Once you have a hunk, roll it out with a rolling pin until it is a ¼ inch thick. If your clay isn’t fresh, you may want to work it in your hands with a hint of water to help rehydrate it.

Clay sticks, so make sure to roll over parchment or wax paper to protect your table.

I use cookie cutters to make my shapes. You can also cut them out using a wooden knife for clay if you want something custom. Gently peel away the surrounding clay. A spatula can help to loosen the clay if it gets stuck to the table.

Take botanical elements such as fresh leaves and flowers and gently push them into your clay. You really want to make a deep imprint so that it shows up and is easily seen on the clay gift tags.

Use a baby skewer or clay tool to poke a hole in the top of the gift tag. Set your tags aside and let them air dry completely according to your clay’s instructions.

Once it’s fully dry, you can thread your twine, ribbon, or cord through the hole. Tie it up, and your homemade gift tags are ready for decoration!

More Amazing Gifting Ideas

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In today’s world, where energy efficiency and sustainability are essential, many homeowners turn to double glazing solutions to improve their homes. Double glazing remains one of the most effective ways to enhance insulation and reduce energy consumption.

In this guide, we’ll explore the benefits, types, and installation of double glazing solutions to help you make informed decisions for your home.

Advantages of double glazing

Let’s start by understanding the key benefits of double glazing:

• Energy efficiency: double glazing improves insulation, keeping your home comfortable while reducing energy bills and carbon footprint.
• Enhanced comfort: say goodbye to draughts and temperature fluctuations, ensuring a consistently cosy indoor environment.
• Noise reduction: double glazing acts as a sound barrier, making your home quieter. This is ideal for noisy neighbourhoods or busy streets.
• Security boost: tougher to break than single-pane windows, double glazing adds an extra layer of protection.
• UV protection: double glazing blocks harmful UV rays, preserving your furniture and decor.
• Property value: homes with double glazing are more appealing to buyers and can increase your property’s resale value.

Some things you may not know about double glazing 

When considering double glazing solutions, it’s worth exploring options that incorporate sustainable materials. Many manufacturers now offer frames made from recycled or responsibly sourced materials. Choosing such eco-friendly options can further align your home improvement project with sustainability goals.

In many regions, governments offer incentives and rebates for energy-efficient home improvements, including double glazing. These incentives not only reduce the upfront costs, but also encourage homeowners to make eco-conscious choices. It’s advisable to check with local authorities or energy agencies to see if you qualify for any such programmes.

Types of double glazing solutions

Double glazing solutions come in various forms:

Double glazed windows are the most common type, featuring two glass panes separated by a spacer filled with air or inert gas. These windows are available in various styles.

Double glazed doors offer similar benefits to windows, and are available in designs like French doors, sliding patio doors, and bi-fold doors.

Secondary glazing is a budget-friendly option involving an additional pane added to existing windows, enhancing insulation and reducing noise.

Triple glazing features three glass panes and two insulating gaps. Triple glazing offers superior insulation, and is more suitable for harsher climates.

Double glazing installation process

Installing double glazing solutions is a precise process. A good supplier will carry out all the following steps:

1. Consultation and Measurement: a specialist assesses your home’s needs, takes measurements, and provides a quote.
2. Manufacturing: the manufacturer creates the double glazed units to your specifications.
3. Removal (if needed): existing windows or doors are removed, and preparations are made for the new double glazing.
4. Installation: the new units are installed precisely, ensuring an airtight fit and sealing all gaps.
5. Testing and inspection: thorough checks ensure quality, including tests for air leakage and unit functionality.
6. Finishing touches: trim and seals are added to complete the installation, enhancing your home’s aesthetics.

Additional Considerations

When choosing double glazing solutions for your home, it’s also a good idea to bear in mind the following factors:

• Climate: choose between double and triple glazing based on your climate.
• Frame materials: different frame materials offer varying levels of insulation, durability, and aesthetics.
• Maintenance: regular cleaning and checks are vital for long-lasting performance.
• Professional installation: ensure professionals handle the installation for optimal results.

Conclusion

Double glazing solutions have evolved to become indispensable for creating energy-efficient and comfortable homes. Whether you aim to cut down on energy bills, enhance security, or enjoy a quieter living environment, double glazing offers numerous benefits.

By understanding the advantages, exploring the various types available, and appreciating the significance of professional installation and maintenance, you can make your home more comfortable, eco-friendly, and valuable.

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There’s just something about wooden furniture that screams ‘perfect’ for any garden. It’s not only sturdy, but looks fantastic and gives off a rustic charm too.

You can revamp your garden in so many ways with outdoor furniture. From tables and chairs to sofas, dining sets, and even parasols, there’s a wide range of options to suit your outdoor space and home style.

Rustic charm: wooden garden furniture essentials

Here’s a quick guide to the wooden garden furniture essentials you need to consider when upgrading your outdoor living experience.

1) Tables

Whether you’re hosting a barbecue, enjoying a peaceful cup of tea in the morning sun, or simply unwinding with a book, wooden garden tables provide a reliable surface for all your outdoor activities.

But that’s not all; wooden garden tables go beyond practicality. The natural fibres and textures of the wood create a rustic appeal that is both timeless and inviting.

2) Chairs

Nothing beats the comfort and natural beauty of wooden garden seating options.

Wooden garden chairs provide a rustic charm to your outdoor space, while offering durability and functionality that’s hard to match.

Once you’ve found your ideal chair, why not complete your outdoor seating area with a cosy and stylish wooden sofa set?

3) Sofa set

A wooden garden sofa set is the perfect choice if you want comfort and impact in your outdoor space. Imagine lounging on a comfortable wooden sofa, surrounded by beautiful greenery, with a refreshing drink in hand. It’s the epitome of relaxation.

Whether you prefer a classic design with intricate carvings, or a more modern, minimalist look, there’s a wooden garden sofa set out there that will suit your tastes.

And don’t worry about giving up comfort for style – these sets are designed with your relaxation in mind.

4) Parasols

Whether sheltering you from the rain, or providing shade on a sunny day, a parasol is a perfect addition to your garden.

A wooden parasol can provide shelter from wind and light rain. And on scorching hot days when the sun seems relentless, it will provide you with much-needed shade.

5) Outdoor dining set

You’ll love the convenience and elegance of an outdoor dining set for summer BBQs and entertaining guests.

Picture this: a warm summer evening, the smell of delicious food on the grill, and you and your family gathered around a beautiful wooden table, enjoying each other’s company.

A wooden dining set will exudes rustic charm and add a dash of elegance to your outdoor space.

6) Furniture sets

When creating a cohesive and hassle-free outdoor space, nothing beats the versatility and convenience of a furniture set.

With a wood outdoor furniture set, you can quickly transform your garden into a welcoming and comfortable retreat for family and friends.

Here are four reasons why furniture sets are essential for your outdoor space:

• Easy coordination: Say goodbye to the stress of matching individual furniture pieces. A furniture set ensures that all the elements complement each other.
• Various designs: Furniture sets come in numerous formats, allowing you to find the perfect fit for your outdoor space. Whether you want a modern and sleek look, or a more traditional and rustic vibe, there’s a furniture set to will suit your style.
• Seating options: From small bistro sets to large dining sets, furniture sets offer various seating options. No matter the size of your garden or the number of guests you want to accommodate, there’s a furniture set that will meet your needs.
• Time-saving: Purchasing a furniture set saves you time and effort. Instead of spending hours searching for individual pieces and trying to make them match, you can select a furniture set that already includes everything you need.

How should wooden garden furniture be maintained and protected from the elements?

To protect and maintain wooden garden furniture, you should take a few key steps.

First, give it a good clean with warm, soapy water.

Then, apply a protective finish, like a sealant or varnish, to shield it from the elements. Remember to reapply the finish to keep it in top shape periodically.

If you want to go the extra mile, cover your furniture when it’s not in use.

Can wooden garden furniture be left outside all year round?

The answer is yes, but it’s not recommended. While wooden furniture may have a rustic charm, it’s still susceptible to the elements. Rain, snow, and even UV rays can cause damage over time.

To ensure your wooden garden furniture lasts for years, it’s best to protect it with a cover or store it indoors during harsh weather conditions.

Can wooden garden furniture be customised or made to order according to specific dimensions?

Absolutely! Wooden garden furniture can be customised or ordered according to specific dimensions. This allows you to craft a unique, personalised look that fits your garden. Whether you have a small patio or a spacious backyard, you can have furniture that perfectly fits the space.

Conclusion

Adding rustic charm to your garden has never been easier with the wide range of wooden outdoor furniture.

With wooden garden furniture, you can create a cosy and inviting ambience that will make you never want to leave your outdoor oasis. Whether you want a traditional or contemporary style, there is a piece that will perfectly complement your taste.

It’s autumn, and it’s rosehip season—time to gather the fruits of the last roses of summer. Even if you have not been bingeing on the History Channel’s Alone series (not something I would ever do, of course), where hungry contestants wolf rosehips straight from their branches, you probably know that these plump red seed capsules are edible and revered for their nutritional benefits. Rosehips are high in antioxidants and vitamins. You may also have heard that they can be fiddly to work with and take some trouble to prepare. And if you’re in tune with your local flora, you may be aware, too, that some rose species, highly invasive, don’t play well with their botanical neighbors.

Read on for an easy rosehip recipe that includes optimism, exercise, and virtue. We’ll also identify two invasive rose species and make an easy syrup whose main demand upon you is the ability to shake a Mason jar. It couldn’t be more simple.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

Two introduced shrubs that have naturalized in many regions of the United States are multiflora (Rosa multiflora) and beach roses (Rosa rugosa). Both are so ubiquitous that you’d be forgiven for assuming they belong (imagine a beach without beach roses). Both species are native to East Asia.

In early summer frothy hedgerows of invasive multiflora roses burst into bloom along roadsides and on woodland edges. Their blossoms are beautiful and they smell good. The rose was introduced to the US in the 19th century as hardy rootstock for grafted ornamental roses and later planted to control erosion and contain livestock within living barriers. The roses scramble up other shrubs and trees for support, weighing them down and creating shady, impenetrable thickets. Habitats are altered, and native species can suffer.

Many birds relish rosehips, especially once frost has softened them and bletted their tannins. As birds travel, seed is dispersed, and the spread continues.

The beach rose shrubs that light up shorelines in summer were imported for their beauty and hardiness: their wide, single flowers, and fatly attractive hips combined with their adaptability to challenging urban conditions (where nutrient-poor soil often goes hand in hand with lack of water) made these East Asian native roses very appealing. Rosa rugosa now colonizes shorelines where it thrives, disrupting native plant communities.