Category: Home & Garden

Here’s the produce tally board, as of mid-day yesterday:

1,563 lbs of produce, and 1,993 eggs.

Almost half the produce yields was watermelon. This is fine, because we’d all rather eat watermelon than vegetables.

When the fall roots come in things are really going to get exciting. I’m hoping we hit 2k!

We still have to harvest a few more pumpkins, all the sweet potatoes, all the yams, and all the cassava. Most of this will happen right before the first frost in November or so.

If we get some rain, I also would like to plant some daikons as a fall crop. It’s still a bit too hot and dry right now.

The pigs are getting fat, and they’ll also bring us some yield when we butcher them this winter.

What a blessing to be here on our own land! Thank you, Lord Jesus, for watching out for us.

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My name is Judy. I have been gardening for many years but with no formal training. I have learned a lot by trial and error. My husband and I moved to the Hampton Roads area of Virginia (Zone 7B) four years ago, to an existing house surrounded by woods but a yard bare of any trees or flowers. The soil is clay, poor and full of moles, and the local deer population is hungry, so I have had challenges to overcome. I am continually improving soil and editing plants that surprised me in the way they developed. Each year I have focused on expanding my garden into new areas. This year’s project was my hellstrip of sorts, the narrow strip of land between my driveway and the woods.

The phloxes (Phlox paniculata, Zones 5–8) are taking center stage. Supporting actors are the Echinacea ‘Sweet Sandia’ (Zones 4–9) and the blue Vitex angus-castus (Zones 6–9) tree.

Gaura lindheimeri ‘Gaudi Red’ (Zones 5–9) upstage the Japanese maple (Acer palmatum ‘Garnet’, Zones 5–9) behind.

The planters are on our patio, which is nestled at the edge of the woods, providing us a place to escape from the intense Virginia afternoon heat and humidity. They showcase Mandevilla (Zones 9–11 or as an annual) with Caladium (Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb) and Begonia (Zones 8–11 or as an annual) at her feet, and lambs’ ears (Stachys byzantina, Zones 4–10) peeking around from behind.

I first saw balsam apple (Momordica balsamina) at Thomas Jefferson’s home, Monticello. It is an annual that I now grow from seed. In the fall it develops small yellow-orange fruits like tiny gourds that burst open when ripe to reveal their sticky, bright red seed. In the 1500s it was used medicinally to treat wounds. I love how it softens the metal railing.

I rescued this oriental lily (Lilium hybrid, Zones 5–9) several years ago from what I term “the dead and dying rack” at a big box store. It was worth the gamble, as was the Mandevilla in a previous photo.

Calla lilies are one of my favorites. This one is Zantedeschia ‘Garnet Glow’ (Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb).

The balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus, Zones 3–8) echo the colors of the Veronica spicata (Zones 3–8) while complementing the ‘Garnet’ Japanese maple behind.

My biggest challenge by far has been planting in the strip of land between the driveway and the woods. It is my personal hellstrip. The soil is poor, dry, and full of roots, stumps, driveway gravel and a layer of duff made mostly of slowly decomposing pine needles. This spring before beginning to add more plants to the area, I dug out five small tree stumps and sawed through many roots left from trees downed when the house was built. Plants here grow slowly and need lots of TLC to encourage them to flourish. The deer find many of the plants in this area delicious (even deer-resistant plants), so I have to be diligent about applying deer deterrent. The plants pictured here are mostly in their infancy, but I have high hopes that one day this will mature to a restful garden bed.

 

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A perennial evergreen, S. montana has a much longer season than its close cousin summer savory (S. hortensis) – which you can read all about here.

Low maintenance and easy to grow, it’s also a versatile performer in the kitchen – and year-round convenience is what gives S. montana its must-have status in my garden. A freshly picked sprig added to a simmering pot of beans or stew makes a cold winter’s day seem just a little bit warmer!

Let’s dig into the growing details so you can enjoy some yourself.

What Is Winter Savory?

An evergreen perennial, winter savory is a low-growing, semi-woody herb in the mint family, Lamiaceae, and is also commonly known as creeping, mountain, or Spanish savory.

Native to the temperate climates of the Mediterranean basin, it forms low growing and multi-branched mounds that grow 8 to 15 inches high, with a 12- to 24-inch spread.

The glossy, 1-inch leaves are dense, slender, slightly leathery, and highly aromatic, appearing opposite on the stems. Small, dainty flowers appear on terminal spikes throughout summer in colors of mauve, pink, and white.

Cold hardy in USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9, these plants go dormant in winter and can lose many of their mature leaves along the stem tips. But new growth quickly appears on the bare stems once longer days and warmer temperatures return.

But there are always plenty of small, year-old stems that retain their leaves throughout the year. These can be picked and enjoyed for winter cooking as needed.

The closely related summer species, S. hortensis, is a fast-growing annual, with a less intense and fresher flavor than S. montana.

Cultivation and History

Aptly named, savory comes from the from the old Latin root word sapor, which became the Old French savoure – for tasty or fragrant. The word za’atar, the name of the popular (and flavorful) Middle Eastern spice mix, also comes from the same root word.

S. montana has a deep, earthy flavor – peppery and piney with a piquant intensity – and has long been used as a seasoning.

Many antiquated texts speak of its use as a seasoning and for its healing properties. It was the Roman poet Virgil who recommended planting it near beehives, and in “The Complete Herbal,” Nicolas Culpeper favors it as a stimulant to “quicken the dull spirits.”

Introduced to Europe by the Romans, medieval walled gardens grew both the summer and winter species, and it was used to stuff meats and poultry.

The Germans discovered that fresh sprigs added to a cooking pot of beans made them easier to digest. Today, it’s still referred to as the “bean herb,” or Bohenkraut in German.

During the economic expansion of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, French and English garden designers of the day recommended planting this herb for its fragrance. This was an important component in the new “gardens of delight” that were popular with the nouveau riche.

Winter savory was introduced to the US by European colonists in the 1800s.

By Division

Root division is also an option, and it’s a good choice for aging container-grown plants that need to be rejuvenated.

In spring, remove plants from their containers and trim away about a third of any wrapped or bound roots.

Divide the root ball into thirds or quarters, ensuring that each section has a healthy piece of root and stems with green leaves attached.

Remove one-third of the top growth, and trim away any dead or damaged stems and leaves.

Replant in containers or directly into the garden. Learn more about dividing perennials here.

How to Grow

S. montana requires a full sun location.

This herb prefers soil with a neutral pH of 6.0-8.0 that is well-draining and moderately fertile.

Enrich the planting soil with a mix of 1/3 organic matter such as aged compost or well-rotted manure, and 1/3 coarse sand or grit to improve drainage.

Choose a site where plants can remain undisturbed, and prepare planting holes 8 to 10 inches apart, twice as wide and a bit deeper than the root balls.

Mix a little bone meal into the planting site to encourage strong, healthy root growth.

Set plants in place and backfill holes with the planting mix, gently firming the soil in place over the roots.

Water lightly and provide regular moisture until established. Once plants are settled, in 4 to 6 weeks, dry to moderate moisture levels are sufficient. Allow the soil to dry out between watering deeply bi-weekly.  For container plants, water when the top inch of soil is dry.

Apply a top dressing of organic matter like compost in spring but avoid liquid fertilizers – savory’s flavor is improved when grown in lean soil.

Trim in early spring before new growth emerges, removing last season’s spent seed heads – or approximately 1/3 of overall growth.

Plants are cold hardy to around 10°F. If temperatures in your region regularly dip to this mark, select a sheltered planting site and provide cold insulation during the winter months.

A thick, 4- to 5-inch-thick straw mulch spread over the crown and out to the drip line will help protect against freezing temperatures and drying winds. Remove the mulch in spring.

Older plants can become woody and benefit from regular pruning to encourage new growth and a full, bushy form.

Plants are short-lived and need to be replaced every 4-5 years in the garden, and every 2-4 years if grown in containers.

Indoors

To bring plants indoors for winter, provide a pot measuring at least 12 inches in diameter and with a similar depth.

Use a potting mix amended with 1/3 coarse sand and ensure the soil and pot drain freely.

Place plants in a cool, sunny window with at least 6 hours of light per day. Or, use a full spectrum grow light.

Water lightly when the top inch of soil is dry, and ensure plants are well-spaced in the pot with ample air circulation.

Harvest and Storage

As a perennial, leaves can be picked year-round, although the flavor is typically best during the summer.

Harvest sprigs in the morning, after the dew has dried – this is when their essential oils are most potent and flavorful.

Cut from mature stalks only, leaving at least half of the stalk intact for future growth.

Store the fresh sprigs in a small jar of water until you’re ready to use them, kept out of direct sunlight. Or, place them in the refrigerator where they will stay fresh for 10 to 14 days.

The flavor is best when it’s used fresh, but you can also dry your harvest for longer term storage.

To dry, bundle stems with kitchen twine and hang them in a cool, airy spot out of direct sunlight. Or, place the stems in your food dehydrator at its lowest setting, 95 to 115°F for 1 to 2 hours.

Don’t have a dehydrator? You can learn about the best models from our sister site, Foodal.

Recipes and Cooking Ideas

In the kitchen, flavorful leaves can be used fresh or dried in numerous recipes, typically to season fish, game, meat, and poultry, as well as in soups, stews, and stuffing.

And it’s delicious added to herb or cheese breads – it’s what gives a spicy tang to Sue’s Savory Muffins, for example. You can find the recipe for these on our sister site, Foodal.

Add fresh sprigs when cooking legumes, like peas and beans, or cabbage, to add flavor and make them more digestible.

Fresh leaves add piquant flavor to compound butters, cooked grains, herbed cheeses, risotto, salads (chicken, green, and potato), salad dressings, vegetables, and vinegars.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Semi-woody herb, perennial	Tolerance:	Deer and rabbit resistant, drought, poor and rocky soil
Native to:	Mediterranean Basin and southwest Asia	Water Needs:	Low to moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	6-9	Maintenance:	Moderate
Season:	Evergreen	Soil Type:	Average to lean fertility
Exposure:	Full sun	Soil pH:	Neutral, 6.0-8.0
Time to Maturity:	90 days	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	12-15 inches	Companion Planting:	Beans, cabbage, onions, roses
Planting Depth:	Deep as root ball	Attracts:	Honey bees
Height:	12-15 inches	Family:	Lamiaceae
Spread:	12-24 inches	Genus:	Satureja
Pests & Diseases:	No serious pest or disease problems	Species:	montana

We list the 5 main reasons flowers might not appear when you expect them.

Let’s start problem-solving!

1. Timing

From the time you sowed seeds in the ground, you should expect them to germinate within seven to 10 days. About eight weeks (or 50-55 days) after that, you should start seeing flowers.

This is about halfway through the pumpkin’s 100-120 day growing time, depending on the variety.

Here’s a tip: the first flowers you see are male. The biggest visible difference between male and female flowers is that males don’t contain an ovary like females do. The ovary looks like a tiny lump just behind the flower.

The flowers unfold at dawn. In the next several hours, they open more and more until they are graceful golden basins at their peak of beauty.

These hours are critical for pollination, whether you’re depending on bees or pollinating the plant yourself.

The pollen on the male flower’s stamen must get transferred to the female flower’s stigma, covering the whole segmented head.

2. The Soil

If you aren’t seeing flowers even after more than 55 days, it’s possible that the soil your pumpkins are growing in has too much nitrogen, which contributes to lovely leaves but not to flower production.

Or maybe it has a workable amount of nitrogen but not enough phosphorus.

Phosphorus is responsible for helping plants set fruit, and it’s integral to the flowering process.

Remember that pumpkins need nitrogen too, so you’re not trying to eradicate or even greatly diminish the content.

The main thing is to let a few other plants benefit from it while adding phosphorus to help those plants bloom.

You can learn more about the best companion plants to grow with pumpkins in this guide.

If daytime temperatures persistently rise above 90°F with little to no reprieve at night, your plant may be too stressed to produce flowers, which takes a lot of its energy and nutrients. Instead, it switches to a survival mode of sorts.

You might be skeptical that the sun could cause such damage to a sun-loving plant.

But take this example, which happened to me recently: I sowed several rhubarb plants from seed in containers this winter.

As soon as our extra-long Alaskan summer days hit, they thrived in their warm windowsill spot, growing thicker stalks and huge (for their age) leaves.

If you see powdery white stuff on your pumpkin vines or leaves, take action quickly. Remove the affected leaves and grab an organic fungicide to treat the plant.

Some fungicides are preventative, others are intended to treat an existing infestation, and some do both. So pay attention to what you’re spraying your plants with.

Spraying an existing fungal outbreak with preventative fungicide won’t do much, while adding a curative fungicide to non-infected plants can be a waste of time and money.

And if you live in an extra wet, rainy area, it’s worth spraying your plants with preventative fungicide early on in their growth.

Also, when you’re removing leaves, be sure to wash your hands between plants and even between infected and not-yet-infected leaves on the same plant.

The last thing you want to do is pluck a mildewed leaf off one vine, only to use that same hand to touch a healthy nearby plant or leaf, thus spreading the spores.

Any fungal infection could affect blossoming if the disease lowers the overall health of the vines and leaves, delaying blooming or even killing the plant.

But with quick and early treatment, you should be able to avoid this.

May They Bloom and Grow Forever

Well, maybe not forever. But now that you know the five main culprits that may cause a lack of blossoms, you’re ready to get those plants healthy and blooming.

And you know what that means – baby pumpkins coming soon to a plant near you. Oh, the excitement!

In the meantime, keep an eagle eye out for those pumpkins, like my three-year-old does. He adores checking on them. He even uses binoculars to get an extra-close look.

1. Barese

This white-stemmed heirloom variety is a dwarf type, only reaching about 9 inches tall at maturity.

‘Barese’

It has smooth, dark green leaves with a mild flavor. Quick growing, you can harvest baby leaves at 25 days, or mature leaves at 45 days.

Easy to grow in containers, it’s slow to bolt, giving you repeated harvests throughout the season.

Many gardeners harvest and cook the whole plant, as you would baby bok choy. ‘Barese’ is also quite pest-resistant.

Purchase packets of seeds in various quantities from True Leaf Market.

2. Bright Lights

Colorful ‘Bright Lights’ produces stems in yellow, orange, gold, pink, red, white, and striped.

‘Bright Lights’

As mentioned above, it is sometimes mistakenly called rainbow chard.

This 1998 All-America Selections Edible Vegetable winner matures in 55 to 60 days and grows to about 20 inches tall. Adding vibrant color to your garden, it is sometimes grown purely for its ornamental value.

The leaves and stalks are tender and have a milder flavor than some other types, particularly those with deep red stalks. Harvested young, the dark green leaves are delicious in salads.

Find packets of 100 seeds for ‘Bright Lights’ at Burpee.

3. Fordhook Giant

Introduced by Burpee in 1934, his mild-flavored cultivar has thick, dark green leaves that are heavily savoyed and quite tender. Young leaves can be used raw in salads, and mature leaves are best cooked for a sweeter flavor.

‘Fordhook Giant’

‘Fordhook Giant’ is easy to grow and produces heavy yields – even in warm weather. It prefers full sun, but will tolerate a bit of shade.

It grows 20 to 28 inches tall, and matures in 60 days.

Find packets of 350 seeds for ‘Fordhook Giant’ at Burpee.

4. Large White Ribbed

This heirloom variety has a wide, flat, white stem and smooth, tender leaves. Young leaves make a tasty addition to salads, and the mature leaves can be enjoyed steamed or stir-fried.

‘Large White Ribbed’

‘Large White Ribbed’ grows to about 20 inches tall and is mature in about 60 days. Unfortunately, this variety can be a bit more susceptible to pests such as leaf miners.

Seeds for ‘Large White Ribbed’ in packets of various sizes are available at Eden Brothers.

5. Lucullus

‘Lucullus’ is an heirloom variety of chard named for a Roman emperor who was well known as a gastronome.

‘Lucullus’

His eponymous chard produces broad, thick stalks that are white or pale green and large, dark green leaves that are heavily savoyed.

Growing to about 20 inches tall, ‘Lucullus’ matures in 52 to 55 days. Both leaves and stalks have a sweet, mild flavor, and store well in the freezer.

Seeds for ‘Lucullus’ are available at True Leaf Market.

6. Magenta Sunset

The color of the stems of this heirloom variety is nothing short of show-stopping – bright pink and beautiful!

‘Magenta Sunset’

The stems and smooth leaves of ‘Magenta Sunset’ have a mild flavor, and the pink-veined immature leaves are especially tasty in salads.

‘Magenta Sunset’ matures in about 65 days, and grows to about 24 inches tall. It can have a tendency to bolt if young plants are exposed to cool temperatures.

Find packets of 200 seeds for this colorful variety at True Leaf Market.

7. Orange Fantasia

This open-pollinated type displays bright orange stems topped by deep green, savoyed leaves, which are tasty in salads when harvested young.

‘Orange Fantasia’

A colorful addition to stir-fries, this variety maintains its color when cooked.

A bolt-resistant cultivar, this type is fully mature at about 20 inches tall within about 65 days after planting.

Packets of 50 to 200 seeds for this colorful variety are available from Seed King Express via Amazon.

8. Peppermint

This open-pollinated type is named not for its flavor, but rather, for its white stems that are striped with reddish-pink hues.

‘Peppermint’

Somewhat reminiscent of a Chioggia beet, this type makes a striking addition to your vegetable garden.

‘Peppermint’ matures in 53 to 63 days, but you can start harvesting baby leaves in as few as 35 days.

This cultivar can grow to about 24 inches tall. The leaves are wide, dark green, and savoyed with bright white veins. Adding a robust, earthy flavor, they are delicious steamed or in stir-fries.

Find packets of 200 seeds for ‘Peppermint’ chard at David’s Garden Seeds via Amazon.

9. Rhubarb

There’s also a popular chard variety called ‘Rhubarb,’ which is not in fact rhubarb at all.

‘Rhubarb’

Whoever named this variety was focused on appearance rather than flavor..

‘Rhubarb’ chard produces dark green, savoyed leaves with dark red veins. The stalks are crimson (thus, the name) and slightly flat. Baby greens will add interest to salads, and the mature leaves are juicy and tasty when cooked.

This type, also known as ‘Ruby Red’ (less fitting, since at least to me they don’t resemble grapefruit…) matures in 60 days and grows to 20 to 24 inches tall.

Packets of 550 seeds are available at Burpee.

A Rainbow of Choices

Who knew there was such a variety available in the world of chard?And now it’s time to decide: tall or short? Crumple-leafed or smooth? Orange, red, white, pink, or green?

Whichever cultivars you choose, be sure to check out our complete chard growing guide for tips to get started, once your seeds arrive.

Do you already have a favorite variety? What worked well in your growing zone? Share your intel in the comments section below!

Considering other types of greens? Check out these growing guides to learn more:

No wonder these trees are considered one of the six national nature symbols, and they factor into Finnish folklore.

The birch was long considered a holy or sacred tree. The Finnish fairy tale “The Birch and the Star” describes two lost children who find their home by looking for their birch tree.

People in Britain would use birch brooms, called besoms, to sweep out bad witchcraft along with the dust and dirt.

Some gardeners today still believe that sweeping a birch besom over the garden will rid it of bad vibes. Hey, I’ll try anything to get rid of aphids…

Frigga and Freya of Norse mythology are linked to birches, and the tree represents new beginnings and renewal in Celtic myth. Samuel Taylor Coleridge called the birch the “the Lady of the woods.”

Paper Birch

One of my favorite birches, and one of my favorite trees altogether, is the paper birch, B. papyrifera. I love the way the peeling, papery bark adds texture to the winter landscape.

Nature Hills Nursery carries this species.

River birches (B. nigra) do extremely well next to a river or pond, but you can plant them just about anywhere. They can reach a towering 80 feet and half as wide.

River Birch

Visit Nature Hills to bring one home. They carry live, single-stem trees in #3 or #5 containers, and multi-stem trees in #5 containers, so you have options.

6. Cedar

I’m going to include both true cedars (Cedrus spp.) and trees in the genus Thuja here, which we know commonly as cedars but are actually arborvitae. Both of these hold special significance for the people who live in areas where they grow.

For the indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest, western redcedar (Thuja plicata) is known as the “tree of life,” and some tribes called themselves people of the cedar, or cedar people, such as the Clatsop, Chinook, Kathlamet, Klatskanie, and Tillamook in Oregon.

Native people would gather at the base of redcedars for ceremonies and to rejuvenate, and the wood was often used to create totem poles.

This broad, tall tree can reach hundreds of feet in height and can live for at least 1,500 years.

Across the world, the demigod Humbaba was the guardian of the cedar forest in Mesopotamian mythology. The cedar forest is the place where the gods dwell, and people saw the trees as sacred for this reason.

In China, people believed planting a cedar tree would ensure that your lover stayed faithful.

Want to keep a cedar tree as a reminder of love in your life?

Deodar cedars (C. deodara) have a pyramidal shape with gracefully drooping branches and they make a grand gesture in the garden.

Deodar Cedar

Pick up a live tree in a #5 container at Nature Hills Nursery.

7. Elm

While some plants are associated with bright things like new beginnings, elm trees (Ulmus spp.) are strongly associated with the underworld.

Orpheus journeyed to the underworld to rescue his wife, Eurydice, and when he was successful, he played his harp in celebration. An elm tree grew in that spot, according to the Greek myth.

Other tellings say that as Orpheus was about to emerge from the underworld, he looked back at his wife. This was forbidden and she was taken back to the underworld. An elm grew in her place.

Celts believed elms guarded the passage to the underworld. In Medieval London, two elm trees were used for hangings, earning the trees a dark reputation.

It’s fitting that the wood is a popular choice for coffins.

Personally, I love elms. They grow fast, tolerate all kinds of environmental conditions, don’t need a lot of pruning, and come in many shapes and sizes.

Lacebark Elm

Lacebark elms (U. parvifolia) are tough as nails with rough, textural bark.

They add a nice element to the yard during the dormant season. Nature Hills carries this species in a #5 container.

DannaSpire is a columnar lacebark elm cultivar (U. parvifolia ‘DavesStraightUp’) that grows 25 feet tall and just five feet wide, at most.

It’s such a cool option for a small space or for creating a windbreak.

DannaSpire Elm

Find one in three- to four- or four- to five-foot heights at Fast Growing Trees.

Find our guide to growing elm trees here.

8. Foxglove

It’s an interesting name for a flower – foxglove!

But was this actually based on a belief that foxes wore gloves? Not exactly.

Foxglove is the common name for plants in the Digitalis genus, used in ancient times as a drug, and still used today in some heart medicines.

Digitalin, a cardiac glycoside that can be extracted from the plant, can help steady rapid heartbeats and arrhythmias when used in small doses.

However, the constituents of this beautiful flower were also used as a poison in old times, since these same cardiac glycosides are highly toxic – and best kept away from pets and small children.

Of course, foxes never wore gloves, but the name was recorded in England dating as far back as the 14th century. It is probably a distortion of “folks’ glove.”

According to Margaret Grieve in her tome on herbalism and lore, “A Modern Herbal,” “good folk” was the name sometimes used for fairies – and these little beings were said to live inside the flowers, perhaps responsible for their potencies, both good and bad.

This story and so much more on many other plants can be found in Grieve’s masterpiece on botanical culture. It’s sold in two parts – find Volume 1 and Volume 2 on Amazon.

The blooms are heliotropic, following the light. During old times, when more people professed to believe in fairies, the plant was said to be moving towards any fairy person that passed by.

These flowers are biennials, producing leaves one year, and flower stems the year after.

The common foxglove, D. purpurea, produces delightful purple flowers.

There are also many hybrid varieties of foxglove available, as well as some in shades of apricot, white, and pink. You might like ‘Dalmatian Peach,’ which is available at Nature Hills Nursery.

Learn more about growing foxgloves in our guide.

9. Hazel

The Celts tell a story of nine hazel trees (Corylus spp.) surrounding a well that sat at the border between the gods and Earth.

The trees dropped nuts into the water, and these were eaten by salmon swimming in the water.

These salmon gained all the knowledge in the world, and the first person to eat one of these “salmon of knowledge” would gain that wisdom.

It’s not just the Celts believed these trees marked the border between the gods and mortals or the afterlife. The Greek god Hermes, and his Roman equivalent, Mercury, was said to carry a wisdom-granting staff made of hazel with him when he crossed between the worlds.

Norse myth says that Thor carried a staff made out of hazel to protect himself from lightning.

In China, it was believed that God gave hazelnuts to humans as one of the five sacred foods.

American Hazelnut

In North America, almost any hazelnut you can buy at the store comes from Oregon, where 63,000 tons of nuts are produced each year.

But you want your own, right? Grab an American hazelnut (C. americana) at Nature Hills Nursery in a #3 or #5 container.

Learn how to grow your own hazelnut trees in our guide.

10. Holly

Druids in ancient Ireland and England believed the evergreen foliage of a holly (Ilex spp.) could bring the sun into homes during the winter.

Turns out, there’s more than one reason to bring holly sprigs indoors beyond amping up your winter decor!

Native people in North America used Ilex vomitoria, commonly known as the yaupon holly, as both a ceremonial drink and to revive their spirits and bring focus.

They didn’t know it, but they were using the power of caffeine from North America’s only caffeinated plant.

Indigenous people taught the drink made out of the leaves could bring about clarity and peace.

By the way, ignore the specific epithet here. As with many things, European colonists didn’t understand the value of yaupon hollies when they named the plant, assuming it was being used to induce vomiting.

We now know that ingesting tea made from this plant doesn’t induce vomiting any more readily than drinking too much coffee.

There are endless Ilex options out there, so pick one that calls to you. Lately, I’ve fallen in love with ‘Needlepoint,’ a holly cultivar from the cornuta species.

The glossy green leaves aren’t edged in spines except for one at the tip of each leaf.

‘Needlepoint’ Holly

If you have unresolved trauma from scraped arms and legs from a childhood of hide and seek in holly bushes, this one will come as a welcome relief.

Plus, the red berries appear even without a second plant for pollination purposes.

Invite ‘Needlepoint’ to your yard by heading to Nature Hills Nursery for a live plant in a quart or #3 container.

Learn more about growing holly in our guides.

11. Lady’s Mantle

The wonderful Alchemilla mollis or lady’s mantle – a superbly hardy garden plant that can also seed itself prolifically – has ornate, cup-like leaves notable for catching and collecting beautiful beads of dew.

Well before the 18th century in Europe, alchemists thought there was something magical about the plant, and particularly the properties in the dew it collected.

They were said to use the drops to try and turn base metals into gold – hence the name Alchemilla, after the ancient practice of alchemy.

M. Grieve, who we talked about above, wrote that this dew was also added to magical potions.

Lady’s Mantle

Whether you’re considering whipping up a magical brew or you just want to add some jewel-like interest to your yard, Nature Hills carries live plants in #1 containers.

Learn how to grow your own lady’s mantle in our guide.

12. Laurel

Laurel trees and shrubs (Laurus spp.) have a long, regal history. You’ve heard of a poet laureate, right?

The word laureatus is Latin for “crowned with laurel,” and medieval universities would crown graduates with a branch of the tree.

It’s not just a tree of knowledge. Ancient Romans thought they would be protected from lightning strikes and plague if one took shelter under a laurel tree.

In Greek mythology, after a battle with the dragon Python, Apollo was said to have cleansed himself with laurel to provide protection from the slain dragon’s spirit.

During the witch madness of the Middle Ages, the wood of the laurel was thought to provide protection from witches as well as lightning.

And here in the US in modern times, many of us enjoy the flavor bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) leaves can add to our meals.

Bay Laurel

Whether you want to grow it in a container on your patio or in your yard, you can nab a bay laurel from Nature Hills in a #1 container.

Learn more about growing bay laurel in our guide.

13. Linden

Baucis and Philemon of Ovid’s “Metamorphosis” were granted the gift of staying together for their whole lives and dying at the same time by the disguised gods Zeus and Hermes.

Baucis and Philemon earned this gift after they generously hosted the gods, not knowing who they were, when all their neighbors refused. When they died, they turned into a linden (Tilia spp.) and an oak, respectively.

As a result, the Greeks associated lindens with eternal love and hospitality.

Norse gods Odin and Freya and the Celtic goddess Arianrhod are associated with lindens, and people believed that the trees could provide love and harmony.

People in Slavic countries viewed linden trees as the link between life and death, and they are often planted to ward off evil.

In Chinese folklore, the trees are thought to be able to tame a rebellious heart or provide clarity on a difficult matter.

I remember my first experience with a linden. I was walking around my childhood neighborhood and encountered a tree that blew my senses away.

It was like I had walked into a cloud of honey, the fragrance was so intense, and I could practically taste the sweetness. Accompanying the scent was the buzzing of bees, a sound so loud that I could feel it vibrating my entire body.

If there was ever a tree that could inspire love and harmony, the linden is it. I felt a swelling of joy, and I just wanted to sit under the tree and enjoy the brilliance.

There are many excellent linden options out there. The American linden (T. americana) is a little harder to find, but I think it’s worth seeking out this North American native.

American Linden

I love the huge, heart-shaped leaves and stately shape.

Nature Hills Nursery carries this species in #3 containers if you’ve fallen in love with lindens as much as I have.

14. Mint

Next time you stumble across a bit of mint (Mentha spp.) that has escaped its garden spot, think twice about pulling it. According to Greek myth, mint is actually the goddess Minthe, transformed by a jealous Persephone.

Since Hades (aka Pluto, in Roman myth) couldn’t restore Minthe to human form, he gave her a pleasant scent so everyone could appreciate her charms.

Ancient Romans thought Venus (Aphrodite in Greek myth) wore a crown of mint and that the plant could incite lust.

‘Kentucky Colonel’ Mint

Personally, I’m more concerned about flavoring my cocktail than inciting lust, but maybe you’re looking to do both? If so, pick up some M. spicata ‘Kentucky Colonel’ plants at Burpee.

This cultivar is the classic choice for mint juleps. I think Minthe would approve.

Learn more about growing mint in our guide.

15. Mulberry

Depending on where you come from, the beautiful mulberry (Morus spp.) is either an evil tree or shrub, or it’s a marvelous one.

Considered a sacred ancient tree (fusang) in China and an essential part of the silk industry, since it’s a host of the silkworm, people there believed the 10 birds that represent the sun live in a mulberry tree.

In German folklore, the devil uses the roots of the mulberry to shine his boots.

In Ovid’s “Metamorphoses,” the characters Pyramus and Thisbie meet under a mulberry tree, and when Thisbe finds Pyramus wounded and dying there later, she takes her own life.

People in some US municipalities feel the same way that the Germans do, though for different reasons.

Some species of this tree are banned in certain areas because of their heavy pollen production and invasive growth.

Red Mulberry

If it’s legal to grow in your area, a red mulberry (M. rubra) can be had at Nature Hills Nursery.

Mulberries are delicious and many types of wildlife adore the fruit, so if you can safely and legally grow them, they’re beautiful and productive trees to have around.

Read our guide to learn how to grow your own mulberries.

16. Mullein

A favorite for use in plant borders, Verbascum thapsus has many common names.

You may know it best as mullein, which derives from the Latin word mollis for soft, because of its downy, velvety leaves.

Another common name is hag’s taper, or you may hear it referred to as the candlewick plant.

The wooly flowering stems, growing up to six feet tall, were often dipped in fat and lit as tapers, and the leaves were sometimes used as floor coverings and insoles for shoes. Maybe giving this a try with your favorite pair of gardening shoes would be worth a shot?

Lighting a hag’s taper was said to ward off bad witches and sorcery, and the dried fluff from the leaves and stems was made into wicks for candles.

There was also a superstition that witches would use the tapers themselves for practicing their magic – another great tidbit of folklore on mullein found in M. Grieve’s herbal from the early 1900s.

A most useful plant, mullein is still sometimes used today among herbalists and as a home remedy.

The leaves and flowers contain anti-inflammatory and demulcent compounds, including polysaccharides, saponins, and glycosides, which are said to be especially helpful for treating coughs and lung issues.

While traditional use is strong, medical research on these effects is weak.

The plants are biennial, forming a rosette of soft leaves in their first year, then blooming with striking flowers in their second year before they die.

There are a great many garden varieties to choose from nowadays, as several lovely hybrids have been produced.

Verbascum ‘Raspberry Ripple’ is particularly pretty, a cultivar of wild mullein chosen for its raspberry-red flowers, rather than the typical yellow flowers seen in mullein.

‘Southern Charm’ Mullein

Another striking option is ‘Southern Charm,’ a hybrid with lavender, rose, and peach blossoms. You can purchase both seeds and live plants at Burpee.

17. Oak

If you’ve ever stood at the base of a massive oak tree (Quercus spp.) and looked up, you know how impressive they can be.

It’s little wonder that many cultures associate oaks with thunder. You can easily see a thunder god reaching down from the heavens and finding a mighty oak to be the closest thing.

Even if you don’t believe in supreme beings, it’s likely that an oak, as the tallest thing in the forest, would attract lightning bolts.

Oak trees are associated with thunder in Scandinavian folklore, and the god Thor. Russians had Perun and Lithuanians had Perkunas, both gods of thunder as well as oaks.

Ancient Greeks believed in Zeus, and the Romans Jupiter, and both were associated with oaks as well.

Ancient Hebrews believed the oak held special significance as it was the place where Abraham met with the Christian and Jewish god in the form of three angels disguised as travelers.

The Oak of Abraham, called Eshel Avraham, has drawn worshipers for centuries.

The Celtic people worshiped the goddess of the oak, Daron, and many of their rituals and ceremonies took place among oaks and using parts of the tree. The mistletoe that grows in the canopy of oak trees was also an important part of their ceremonies.

Druids believed the tannins in oaks had healing power, as did many Indigenous people of North America.

Native people also believed the trees offered strength and protection.

The Sioux have a tale of a sorceress who turns a man into an oak after he rejects her, and indigenous leaders of the Ojibwe and Dakota people in the Chippewa Valley in modern-day Wisconsin gathered around the council oak tree.

You can hardly be blamed if you want to make the majestic oak a part of your garden.

A mighty pin oak (Q. palustris) grows up to 70 feet tall and about two-thirds as wide. In the fall, it puts on an incredible show with bright red, orange, and yellow hues.

Pin Oak Tree

Fast Growing Trees carries this species in several sizes.

After you’ve brought yours home, read our guide to growing oaks to learn how to plant and care for your new addition.

18. Rose

The rose (Rosa spp.) has been an adored flowering shrub for centuries, a sentiment shared among people of different cultures all around the world.

Legend has it that once, all roses were thought to be white – until Venus, the Roman goddess of love, cut herself on the thorns and turned the flower red forever with her blood.

For that reason, many associate the rose with love and romance!

There is other folklore about the rose, however, that doesn’t have to do with the classic notion of romantic love.

The legend of the Cherokee rose, for example – or R. laevigata, the state flower of Georgia – centers around a species that came to the US originally from China.

It is said that after Cherokee mothers and women who walked the tragic Trail of Tears grieved all those who had fallen, their tears sprouted to become beautiful white roses, which spread all around the country as a reminder.

Do you want to grow the Cherokee rose? Well, you can!

R. laevigata is tolerant of most conditions but prefers well-drained soil and partial shade. It’s a tough and prolific plant, able to survive droughts.

Cherokee Roses

This climbing rose can reach heights of 20 feet as an evergreen perennial in Zones 4 to 10.

Seeds are available from the Red Earth Seeds store via Amazon.

Learn more about growing roses here.

19. Rosemary

Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus) was once widely believed to be a protective herb. It was thought to ward off evil spirits and witches in the Middle Ages, and was sometimes dropped into graves so that a deceased loved one would not be forgotten.

In Christian mythology, it was said that rosemary had white blossoms until the Virgin Mary draped or dropped her blue cloak onto a plant, changing the hue of the blossoms forever, earning it the name “Rose of Mary.”

The Greek goddess Aphrodite was said to be draped in rosemary at her birth, and those who worshiped her regarded the plant as holy and powerful.

This is an ingredient beloved by cooks, and a fragrant evergreen addition to the garden. You can even use rosemary to create a tiny Christmas tree.

Tuscan Rosemary

If you’d like to add a live plant in a five gallon decorative pot to your space, visit Fast Growing Trees.

Read more about growing rosemary here.

20. Rowan

Sorbus aucuparia is commonly known as mountain ash or rowan. But some people call it by its other name: witchwood.

Scots believed that if they planted witchwoods around their homes, it would protect them from witches. You could also hang branches of rowan trees over doorways to grant the same protection.

And there can be other reasons to lift and store bulbs for a few months as well, like when you’re reworking a bed or redesigning a container – you may want to hold off on replanting your bulbs until fall arrives.

Or maybe you’re going to try your hand at forcing bulbs indoors and want a supply of cured bulbs ready for planting when the time is right.

Whatever your reasons for lifting them, you’ll want to ensure it’s done at the correct time so you’ll have large, healthy corms loaded with energy for next year.

If your spade is poised, let’s unearth the steps on how to store crocus bulbs!

Here’s what you’ll find ahead:

Spring-Flowering Bulbs

Crocus is a genus of perennial, spring-flowering bulbs in the iris family, Iridaceae.

Low-growing plants with large flowers, the small corms – not true bulbs, but similar – have superb cold hardiness and the intensely colored flowers often emerge in late winter before spring officially arrives.

They’re a popular choice for seasonal ground covers, in naturalized plantings, and in beds or borders, and they make a handsome container plant as well.

After flowering early in the growing season, the foliage and roots start to die back as they prepare to enter their summer dormant period.

No growth occurs over summer but with the arrival of fall rains, roots resume growth as the bulbs come partially out of dormancy.

With the uptake of nutrients and water, offsets are pupped in cool fall temperatures and some foliage may appear at this time as well.

The corms remain in a semi-dormant state over winter and need an extended chill time to finally break out of dormancy. After chilling, and once the days start to lengthen in February, flowers follow shortly thereafter.

Knowing their growth cycle is important because it holds the key to when to lift your bulbs. But it should be noted that the instructions in this guide refer to spring flowering crocuses only.

Other varieties that bloom in fall, such as Beiderstein’s (C. speciosus), saffron (C. sativa), and white autumn crocuses (C. ochroleucus), plus species of Colchicum, have different growth patterns.

When and How to Lift

By the time all the foliage has died back in late spring to early summer, the corms are dormant and can be safely lifted.

To tell if they’re dormant, the foliage should be brown, papery, and easily pulled free.

Avoid lifting corms before the foliage has died back – the leaves are needed to collect and process energy through photosynthesis, which is then stored in the corms.

Before they enter dormancy, it’s a good idea to mark the center of the clump with a garden tag – this aids with accuracy when digging them up.

Use a clean trowel or spade to dig around the clump carefully, allowing four to six inches of ease out from the root zone to prevent cutting or damaging corms.

Lift the clumps and use your fingers to pull the corms apart.

Discard any damaged bulbs or ones that are moldy, soft, or too small. Generally, cormlets that are less than half an inch in circumference can be discarded.

Use your fingers or a soft brush to remove surface soil but leave the papery tunics intact.

After lifting, the corms need to cure before going into storage. That’s next!

How to Store

Freshly dug corms require curing time to dry before storage – excess moisture can cause mold and have a negative impact on their health.

Lay the bulbs on a piece of cardboard or screen in a single layer and place in a warm location out of direct sunlight with good air circulation.

Allow the bulbs to dry for seven to 10 days, turning them over after three or four days.

After curing, trim away any remaining foliage and roots and brush off any missed soil.

If desired, you can dust the corms with a fungicide – but this isn’t necessary if they’ve been cured before storage.

Place the corms in a paper bag and fold over the top to close it. Mesh bags work as well.

Place the bag in a cool location with temperatures of 50 to 65°F and store for up to five months. In warm temperatures above 70°F, damage to the corms can occur.

Check the corms after they come out of storage and before planting. Discard any with signs of decay, mold, or soft flesh.

Vernalization Needs

For flowering to occur, corms require a chill time of 12 to 14 weeks at temperatures of 45°F or lower.

Within their hardiness range, the required chill time is naturally met when planted outdoors.

But for forcing bulbs, you’ll need to cool them in the refrigerator for 12 to 14 weeks to meet their cold requirements.

For all the steps on forcing, check out this guide on how to grow crocuses indoors.

When to Plant

After storage, plant outdoors in beds and containers once the soil temperatures have dropped to 60°F or below in the fall – you can find the details in our guide on when to plant crocus bulbs.

A good rule of thumb for planting is to wait until you’ve had two weeks of overnight temperatures that go down to 50°F.

Planting typically takes place from September to November, depending on your region. And the corms should be in the ground at least six weeks before the first hard frost unless you are chilling them artificially for forcing.

This allows time for strong root growth before freezing temperatures arrive.

Collaborative post

Saving for a deposit on a house can feel like a Herculean task, especially in the modern housing market. But what if there’s a solution that has been under your nose all along?

Enter, Shared Ownership. A concept as old as the British love for tea, but as refreshing as a summer’s day in Brighton.

A brief history of shared ownership

Shared Ownership’s roots can be traced back to various cooperative movements in the UK. Historically, groups pooled resources to achieve common goals. And today, Shared Ownership remains a nod to this collective effort. It’s a brilliant way for you to own part of your dream house without bearing the brunt of its total cost.

Unpacking the shared ownership scheme

Imagine buying just a slice of a pizza instead of the whole pie. Shared ownership operates on a similar premise.

You buy a slice of the property, typically ranging from 25% to 75%, and rent the rest. As time goes on, you can buy more of your home, until one day, you’ve devoured the entire pie.

With this scheme, not only do you need a smaller deposit, but you also enjoy reduced monthly payments. It’s like having your cake (or pizza) and eating it.

Guide to shared ownership: is it worth the hype?

Here’s a quick guide to the key benefits of shared ownership:

• Affordability: It’s the primary reason people flock to this scheme. You’re only required to put a deposit on the portion you’re buying, which can be incredibly pocket-friendly.
• Stepping stone: It’s a golden bridge for those who wish to make the transition from renting to owning.
• Equity building: Over time, you can expand your share, allowing you to benefit from any increase in the property’s value when you’re ready to sell.
• Flexibility: As your financial situation changes, you have the option to buy more or less of the property.

Smart ways to maximise shared ownership

If you’re sold on the idea and are ready to sail the shared ownership ship, here are a few navigational tips:

• Joint ventures: Consider pooling resources with friends or family. It’s a way to further reduce costs.
• Discount hunts: Some schemes might offer discounts on property purchase prices. Also, keeping an eye on possible grants or tax benefits can significantly boost your savings.

Exploring shared ownership opportunities

Discovering the perfect shared ownership property requires diligence and determination.

Start by diving deep into what’s available from the various housing associations. For example, we were recently looking at this collection in Sussex. This region is renowned for its beautiful landscapes and prime properties.

The Sussex connection: a shared ownership paradise

When you think of the UK, places like London, Manchester, or Edinburgh might instantly spring to mind. But nestled in the southeast is Sussex, a gem that boasts a rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty.

Why Sussex is a shared ownership haven

1. Historic charm: With its castles, ancient ruins, and picturesque villages, Sussex offers a dreamy backdrop for potential homeowners.
2. Bustling local life: Sussex is not just about historic sites. The county is alive with buzzing market towns, festivals, and a vibrant arts scene. Owning a property here means being at the heart of cultural events all year round.
3. Nature’s bounty: For those who yearn for greenery and the sea, Sussex delivers in spades. From the undulating South Downs to the chalky cliffs of the coast, it’s a nature lover’s paradise.
4. Ease of commute: Close enough to London for work and yet distant enough for peace and tranquillity, Sussex provides the perfect balance for modern living.

Local amenities and attractions in Sussex

For those interested in shared ownership in Sussex, here’s a glimpse of what the region offers:

• Brighton’s Royal Pavilion: A regal residence turned public attraction, this building is a testament to the opulence of the past.
• South Downs National Park: A vast expanse of rolling hills, perfect for weekend hikes or picnics.
• Lewes Castle: Offering panoramic views of the town of Lewes, it’s a trip back in time.
• Shopping and dining: From quaint boutiques in Brighton Lanes to gourmet dining experiences at local bistros, Sussex is a treat for the senses.

The shared ownership legacy: more than just a scheme

Shared ownership isn’t just a financial scheme or a step on the property ladder. It’s a testament to our inherent human nature to collaborate, share, and grow together. It’s about building communities, forging connections, and creating homes filled with memories.

As you embark on your shared ownership journey, especially in a place as enchanting as Sussex, remember that every brick, every wall, and every window is a chapter of your story. A story that’s unique, inspiring, and quintessentially yours.

Shared ownership FAQs: Clearing the Fog

How much should I save up?

The golden number is 5%. This represents your commitment and showcases your readiness for the homeownership journey. However, remember the journey involves other costs too, from solicitors fees to maintenance.

Are there any challenges?

Potential selling difficulties or restrictions on property usage can arise. Make sure to equip yourself with knowledge to navigate these issues.

Does shared ownership come with savings benefits?

Yes! As you’re splashing out less on mortgage interest, you might enjoy a bigger savings pot when the year wraps up.

What about maintenance?

Your shared home is like a shared responsibility. It’s essential to keep it in good condition. This not only preserves the property’s value, but also ensures that your shared ownership experience remains positive.

Who can take advantage of shared ownership?

First-time buyers, those with a limited household income, or individuals with a housing need are typically eligible.

Conclusion

Embarking on shared ownership might just be the beacon of hope for many. It’s a nifty way to dabble in the world of property ownership without diving into the deep end right away. The perks? A reduced deposit, flexibility, and the joy of owning a piece of your haven. Choosing shared ownership could be the solution to your property dilemma and a way to start out on the path to your housing dreams.

You work hard to grow pumpkins in nice hills, with a nice clear space around them…

…and yet, a vine growing out of the compost pile yields way more than all your careful efforts!

40 pumpkins, all from the vine(s) that came from our compost pile in the spring.

265lbs of pumpkins. Come on. That’s ridiculous.

Now we have to hope they taste good, as I generally only saved seeds from pumpkins that were delicious, and composted the pumpkins that were bland.

I guess I need to stop doing that, and just plant the bland pumpkin seeds, knowing they won’t do much, while composting the great-tasting pumpkins so they grow huge yields on accident.

I joke about growing pumpkins this way in a video from last month:

You can see the vine that made all these pumpkins in that video as well.

It’s pretty ridiculous how these accidental pumpkins always grow better than the intentional ones.

I won’t complain, though. As a commenter notes: “Five pounds of pumpkin per week for a year. That’s a good healthy amount of pumpkin, even for your family!”

Not bad at all.

UPDATE:

I just finished a video on these pumpkins:

Hide and seek!

P.S. This morning’s accompaniment – a beautiful performance of Palestrina.

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A terracotta wind chime is not just a visually pleasing decoration to have in your garden but also a musical tool that fills the air with delightful sounds. This simple DIY wind chime requires just a few materials but creates a large impact in the garden. 

Not only is it beautiful to look at, but terracotta gives off a beautiful and distinctive sound. I’m a big fan of terracotta, and I use it in many ways in the garden. It’s just so versatile! Put that quality to use by making a beautiful-looking (and sounding) DIY wind chime. 

Here’s how to make a wind chime using terracotta pots!

History of Terracotta Clay Pots

The name terracotta comes from the Latin word for “baked earth,” which is exactly what terracotta is: fired clay.

Terracotta has been in use for thousands of years, with figures in Greece dating back as far as 3,000 BC. Often used for utilitarian purposes, terracotta was a common material for rooftops, bricks, and sarcophagi.

Terracotta pots also date back to ancient times, as ancient Romans and Egyptians purposefully planted plants in pots. Fast forward several thousand years, and gardeners worldwide still love using terracotta pots for their earthen look.

Why I Love Using Terracotta in the Garden

Flower pots made from terracotta are a garden icon due to their versatility, durability, and affordability. They come from the earth and act as a more solid soil for plants. 

The pots are porous and will break apart when it freezes. However, if you use them in the spring through fall and store them for the winter, they will last many years. 

The porous clay allows for air and moisture to readily flow through the pots, making them a good choice for plants that like good drainage and dislike sitting in water. On the other hand, that same porosity can mean that plants dry out a little faster in terracotta, which means that it’s not the best fit for growing all plants.

Herbs, succulents, and many annuals do extremely well in terracotta.  

How to Make Wind Chimes From Terracotta

Even though this DIY wind chime is made from a few clay pots, its sound is surprisingly musical, complementing the beauty surrounding it in the garden space. 

Different-sized terracotta pots allow each pot to make a different chime when knocked together. Using beads inside the pots creates weight so that each pot will tap against the other, creating a cacophony of sound alongside the buzzing bees and chirping birds.  

Materials

Directions

Go to your local craft or garden store and look for terracotta pots the vary in size. I was able to find three pots with the exact same shape in sizes that had a small variation in diameter and height.  

Choose a strong cord that can be used in an outdoor setting. Look for a synthetic cord for outdoor projects because it is the strongest and longest-lasting in most cases. 

Begin assembling the wind chime by cutting the length of the cord that will complement the length of the wind chime when it is completed. For this project, my cord was cut to 36 inches long. This allowed me to have a lot of extra cord at the end that was easy to trim off at the end. 

Thread the cord through the charm (in this case, the clay necklace pendant) and slide it into the middle of the cord. Collect both ends together and then add both ends of the cord through a large bead told the charm in place. 

Wrap a piece of tape around the ends of the cord to make them easier to thread through the bead if necessary. Tie a knot just above the wooden bead loosely, and measure where the bottom terracotta pot will sit. 

Put both ends of the cord through the hole in the bottom of the smallest terracotta pot and hold up the cord to see how it hangs. If you’re happy with the height and sound when you wiggle it a little bit then you can continue onto the next step. 

If you need to adjust it further, untie the knot and readjust until you’re happy with the placement. 

Thread both ends of the cord through another wooden bead and tie a knot where you want the top of the second-largest terracotta pot to sit.  

Continue adding clay pots and beads and tying knots until you have reached the top of your wind chime. Finish off by tying a knot to create a loop at the top of the two pieces of the cord where you would like to hang the wind chime. Trim off the ends of the cord. 

Hang your terracotta wind chime on a shepherd’s hook or from a tree. Then wait for a nice breeze to come along and start the music. 

That’s it! I hope you love watching and listening to your new beautiful clay wind chimes!

Frequently Asked Questions About DIY Wind Chimes

More Garden Craft Projects

This blog has been one of the constants in my life.

Since starting it in 2012, we’ve lived in five different houses and have attended nine different churches.

We’ve also had five more children, and have another on the way.

(Fortunately, I’ve kept the same wife.)

I’ve seen almost all my favorite garden blogging peers disappear, and the space get filled with lots of crummy fake gardening blogs that mostly exist to sell junky Chinese products.

Yet we’re still here.

Earlier this year I dropped the ads we were running here because I got tired of seeing them. I don’t know that it was a good idea, since that made me a few hundred per month and we have a mortgage to pay, but I just didn’t like seeing shoes and vacation ads and stuff in between my gardening posts.

Maybe I’m too idealistic and I should run them again. It was nice to pay the phone bill!

Anyhow, thanks for putting up with me all these years. It’s been a great run so far, and I really enjoy writing here. There’s a stability to it we don’t always have elsewhere.

Also, this is the 2812th post here. This year I’ve managed one post for every weekday, like I did for a long time in the early years of this site.

What a run it’s been. Glad you’re here.

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With plenty of open pollinated varieties to choose from, reproducing plants true to their parents is easy. And you can begin your own organic, heirloom collection – a wonderful legacy your family will cherish for generations!

Let’s look at the easy steps involved to save and store your kale seeds.

Second Year Growth

Although it’s often grown as an annual, kale requires two years to complete its life cycle.

To collect seeds, you’ll have to let your plants overwinter. This is good news if you’re in USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10, because you’ll also be able to harvest yummy leaves all winter!

In late autumn, lay down a thick, 4- to 6-inch layer of mulch around the base of plants. Compost, grass clippings, leaf mold, sawdust, and straw are all good materials to use.

In spring, this cold weather brassica is one of the first plants to awaken and quickly yields fresh leaves early in the season. By summer, plants have finished their life cycle and will set buds before sending up tall flower stalks. Pods form shortly after.

Leaves can be harvested as long as the plant is viable, but the flavor will suffer once they flower. They’re still suitable for use in stir-fries and soups, but will be tougher and if eaten raw, they may taste bitter.

Gather Flower Stalks

As temperatures rise, each plant sends up tall flower stalks that reach 3 to 5 feet high with large terminal racemes made of small yellow flowers.

Flower stalks can be somewhat brittle, particularly in high winds. If stems begin to flop as they mature, gather a handful together and attach them to a bamboo stake for support to preserve your harvest.

Once the pods have ripened and begun to dry out, cut stalks close to the ground.

Invert the stems with heads and place them in a large paper bag. Tie off the opening with garden twine then hang the bags in a cool, dry location out of the wind.

In areas with high humidity, place only a few stems in each bag to avoid mold.

Once the pods are thoroughly dry, in 10 to 21 days, shake and slap the stems inside the bag to dislodge the seeds.

Winnow Out the Chaff

All varieties produce small, round seeds that are black, gray, or tan colored.

When collecting your own seed, the bits of dried casings and flower stems (or chaff) need to be separated from the seeds by a process known as winnowing.

This can be done using a screen calibrated with holes large enough for them to fall through as you gently shake it. Discard the chaff left on the screen when finished.

Or, on a breezy day, use a mesh strainer or winnowing basket to gently toss seeds up in the air and let the breeze take away the chaff. They need to be tossed high enough for the wind to catch the chaff and disperse it, but not so high as to lose them!

A third option is to dump seeds and chaff onto a large plate and manually separate the two, pushing the chaff aside and saving the seed.

Once packaged, they require a cool, dark location that keeps their moisture content stable.

Temperatures of around 50°F with a humidity of 40 percent are ideal – which makes the produce drawer in your refrigerator a sweet spot for storage.

Other good locations include unheated garages, potting sheds, and root cellars. If your unheated areas flirt with temperatures close to freezing, place your seed containers in a small insulated beverage cooler before storing.

When stored properly, they will remain viable for up to four years.

Save a Seed, Sow Some Love

Saving your own open-pollinated seed is smart and economical.

It ensures plants grown from seed will be true to their parent, and you get complete control over their growing environment.

You’ll never have to buy seedlings again, and you can create your own heirloom lineage of plants – perfect for the self-sustaining or organic gardener.

Plus, you’ll never have that excruciating wait for your local garden shops or direct order companies to be stocked for spring before starting your plants!

Wendy is sharing her beautiful garden with us today. We’ve visited her stunning garden before (Beauty From Wendy’s Garden).

Here’s a Clethra barbinervis (Zones 4–8) ready to bloom in August. It’s a slow-growing large shrub or small tree for sun or light shade and prefers moist soil that does not dry out. It is intensely fragrant, especially in high humidity.

I tried elephant’s ear (Colocasia esculanta, Zones 7–10 or as a tender bulb) for the first time this year and underestimated its size.

I’m completely sold on this dwarf Hydrangea paniculata ‘Bobo’ (Zones 3–8). I’m removing Hydrangea macrophylla (Zones 5–9) in my garden because the buds are destroyed during winter more often than not. The paniculatas’ blooms are reliable and long lasting. Blooming white in the background are Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ and ‘ Little Lime.’

I’m not a big fan of orange tones in the garden, but I couldn’t resist the deep saturation of the color in this canna (Canna hybrid, Zones 8–10 or as an annual).

Unfortunately, the Japanese beetles loved this beautiful bloom too.

The sunny perennial border by the patio in spring

This Lonicera sempervirens (Zones 4–9) along the driveway blooms from spring until frost. Also seen is a Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’ (Zones 6–10) trained as an espalier. It provides year-round color and texture.

The desolation of the same patio perennial garden is shown here in winter. This photo tells me I need to give the garden more winter structure by adding small evergreens—but I’d have to remove perennials to provide the space for them.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

Why create an insectary?

Attracting an assortment of good bugs to aid in pest control helps reduce work in the garden by managing destructive invaders and hopefully eliminating the need for chemicals. By planting with diversity in mind, you are providing food and shelter for beneficial creatures, including migratory birds of prey. When your plants mature and resident populations move in for good, your garden will become a more balanced and healthy environment. The other excellent benefits include lower water use because you will be embracing drought tolerant native plants, better flower and crop production, and lastly, healthy plants not affected by pests and disease can sequester carbon more effectively.

How do you create an insectary garden?

An insectary garden is a long-term commitment, as the results are cumulative and not instantaneous. It can be as large or as small as your garden space allows, just as long as your plot can hold about eight varieties of plants with different or overlapping bloom times. Use only organic fertilizers—never toxic chemicals—cover with mulch, and add compost when needed. Corey Welles, Sustainability Manager at Lotusland shares, “The recipe Lotusland uses for homes, botanic gardens, or large estates is basically: 1: pure natives strategically placed in hedge rows around a property (major cost savings and huge ecological services). 2: 50/50 natives and select non-natives closer to the house. 3: fancy-schmancy ornamentals carefully clustered for focal points or other ornamental elements. This recipe can be customized for any size house.”

What plants are good for an insectary?

Vitex agnus-castus: According to Corey, “Although it’s not a native California plant, Vitex brings in all the best butterflies and beneficial insects. It’s tough, takes radical pruning, plus likes deep and infrequent water.”

Borage: This multitasking plant attracts beneficial bees and wasps and adds trace elements to the soil. Bonus: The blue flowers are edible. Borage is an annual but readily reseeds itself so you will definitely have more next year.

Achillea: This favorite sunny border plant attracts all sorts of helpful flying friends, from butterflies to lacewings and ladybugs. Tall, flat flower clusters are also great in fresh or dried arrangements.

Cosmos: A charming flower that attracts lacewings, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps.

Cilantro: If you let this herb go to flower, you will witness a plethora of predators visiting this plant.

Sunflower: This stately flower attracts beneficial aphidus, pirate bugs, and parasitic wasps. Did you know that you can plant sunflowers to lure aphids away from other plants? Ants will pack up and move their colonies to sunflowers with little to no damage.

Members of the mint family: Sages and lavender have short nectar-producing flowers that make them more accessible to pollinators with short mouthparts such as native bees.

See also:

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1. Adams

‘Adams’ is a cultivar of native Sambucus canadensis. It is one of the most common elderberries grown in North America and is similar to those found growing wild.

‘Adams’

The signature white flowers, and large clusters of dark purple fruits, make it easily identifiable as a beautiful yard accent.

At full height, this beautiful bush can reach between six and 10 feet tall. It will thrive in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 9.

Find live plants for sale in #3 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

Alternatively, you can purchase ‘Adams’ and ‘John’ planted together in a two-gallon container from Fast Growing Trees.

2. Black Beauty

An import from Europe, Black Beauty® aka S. nigra ‘Gerda,’ has very dark leaves, pinkish blooms, and a unique lemon scent.

It is best suited for growing in Zones 4 to 7 and prefers moist or even wet growing conditions.

Black Beauty

A smaller elderberry variety, this plant will grow to no more than six feet tall at maturity, but responds well to pruning.

Like other elderberries, it produces luscious fruits that have become popular for making delicious wines. Buy two to ensure proper pollination.

You can find this plant for sale as a potted shrub from Nature Hills Nursery.

3. Black Lace

Black Lace® aka S. nigra ‘Eva’ has dark leaves that appear lacy throughout the growing season. When the flowers bloom, you’ll be delighted to find that they are pink!

This plant also produces the same versatile berries as other more common varietals.

Black Lace

Many gardeners find that the plant’s need for moisture makes it a perfect rain garden addition.

A bit smaller than other bushes, these plants will grow to just eight feet tall at full height. It’s easy to prune, so feel free to trim it to the height that works best with your landscape design plans.

Black Lace® thrives in Zones 4 to 7. It is available in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

4. Blue

S. cerulea is native to the western United States, Mexico, and the West Coast.

With large, powdery-blue berries, it can sometimes be confused for a form of blueberry. The fruits on this stunning bush are known for having a rich flavor.

Blue

This species differs from cultivated varieties in that it grows best from seed.

It thrives in warmer regions, and therefore is best suited for Zones 3 through 10. At maturity, it can reach a height of 10 to 30 feet, with a spread of 18 feet under ideal growing conditions.

Seeds for this unique plant are available from Amazon.

5. Instant Karma

S. nigra Instant Karma® features variegated green and white foliage and dark purple fruits, making it a beautiful yard accent.

Owners of the plant are usually stunned by how birds and pollinators are attracted to the large, showy white flowers. Butterflies are almost always nearby!

Instant Karma

Plant with Black Lace® or Black Beauty® for pollination.

You can expect this variety to reach a mature height of six to eight feet. Instant Karma® is suitable for cultivation in Zones 4 to 7.

Find plants in quart-size containers available from Proven Winners via Amazon.

6. Lemony Lace

Lemony Lace®, S. racemosa ‘SMNSRD4,’ is a very hardy and showy plant that has feathery, light-colored leaves, and produces red fruits in the fall, after the white flower bunches have died away.

Lemony Lace

Amazingly deer-, cold-, and wind-resistant, it does well in full sun and is a prized plant in the northern United States. It’s versatile enough, however, to thrive in partial shade in southern states as well.

A smaller cultivar, this type typically attains a height and spread of three to five feet at maturity.

Plant in Zones 3 to 7 and enjoy this adaptable plant with its uniquely beautiful chartreuse color.

Please note that some experts caution against eating the fruits from S. racemosa cultivars, specifically those with red berries.

Lemony Lace® is available from Nature Hills Nursery in #3 containers.

7. York

Another S. canadensis cultivar, ‘York’ is reported to have the largest berries and the highest fruit yield.

This resilient breed is also cold tolerant, making it a perfect choice for Zones 3 to 9. Many growers use it as a natural fencing solution, since bushes can grow up to 12 feet tall.

‘York’

Fall brings about a beautiful color change in this plant. Foliage becomes bright red before dropping off for the winter.

‘York’ is available as two- to three-feet bare roots or shrubs in #3 containers from Nature Hills Nursery.

Elderberry Collection, 2 Bare Root Plants

Though most varieties of elderberry are self-fruiting, you can encourage higher yields by planting another cultivar of the same species nearby.

‘York’ and ‘Adams’ make excellent companions, and you can purchase bare root plants paired conveniently in the Elderberry Collection that is available from Burpee.

Which Plant is Best?

With so many options to choose from, it may be difficult to decide on a favorite. Luckily, most elderberries grow well together, giving you the choice to try multiple types for a rainbow of florals.

If it is your first time growing, you will likely do well with an established bush in a pot.

Remember that every breed thrives in moisture and works well in butterfly ecosystems. You can’t go wrong with the benefits that these varieties provide!

Which elderberry species or cultivar do you have experience growing? Do you prefer to choose by foliage, flower, or berry? Please leave your pick of the best in the comments!

And since we know that you’re an elderberry fan, be sure to check out our some of our other guides such as:

Your roots may be too small, or they may be oddly shaped or deformed, despite the fact that the leaves may have looked perfectly happy above ground.

Sometimes, that’s the mystery of root crops. But we hope to shed some light on the situation so you can set yourself up for a rewarding harvest rather than a disappointing one.

Here’s what’s ahead:

I know it’s frustrating to put all that effort in, only to be denied the crop you’d planned on.

The good news is, if you make a mistake and you’re able to learn from it, you rarely have to deal with the same issue again.

Get ready to learn all about why your beets were deformed or small, and what to do about it.

A Bit About Beets

Beets are one of those plants that even the newest gardener can often master. Perhaps that’s why it’s so annoying when they don’t turn out like you expected.

You hear about how simple they are to grow, only to discover that you failed at it – which might make you question this whole gardening endeavor.

Trust me, I’ve been there. But part of what makes gardening so rewarding is learning and overcoming obstacles.

So, let’s talk about fundamentals. Beets need about 60 days to mature, depending on the variety, which means there isn’t a lot of time for things to go wrong.

But it also means you don’t have much time to fix the problem if something isn’t right.

In order to be successful, you need to prepare well and keep a close eye on things.

To give yourself a fighting chance, check out our article on how to grow beets for all the best advice.

If you’re growing your beets in a container, not to worry, we have you covered there, too.

Essentially, beets like cool weather, well-draining and loose soil, and lots of sun.

Many problems can be avoided if you take the time to set your garden up for success before you put the first seed in the soil.

Crowding

If your beets were planted too close together, the roots won’t be able to spread.

Imagine a big, round beet as it gradually matures, only it bumps up against its neighbor with nowhere else to grow.

I know it’s tempting to try and squeeze in as many plants as possible into a space, but you need to give beets plenty of room.

You should sow your seeds or transplant seedlings with at least three inches between them and 12 inches between rows.

Nutrient Deficiency

Beets need lots of phosphorus to grow to the mature size that you’re aiming for. If they don’t have enough, they may grow healthy-looking tops with underdeveloped roots.

Test your soil before planting and if you find that it’s deficient, work some bone meal into the soil, following the manufacturer’s directions.

A phosphorus deficiency is far less common than overcrowding and compacted soil, so don’t just assume that’s the problem and toss some fertilizer at it.

This can cause a host of other problems.

Rocks

If you have rocky soil, your beets may be forced to grow around any rock that’s in the way.

This can cause them to have smaller size at maturity than what they could have attained in more suitable soil, or it can cause them to grow in odd shapes.

To avoid this, be sure to dig down nine inches into the soil and remove any rocks you can find before planting.

Not Enough Sun

Beets benefit from plenty of sun, and if they don’t get enough, their roots can be malformed. Usually, the tops will be smaller than usual and they may also be leggy or lighter in color.

The fix, of course, is to plant your beets where they can get at least six hours of light per day. This is one of those situations that you may be able to address if you notice the problem soon enough.

If you planted near a tree or bush that filled out as the season progressed, you can prune the plant back to restore light access to your garden.

If your beets are growing in a container, move it to a better spot.

Acidic Soil

Beets prefer slightly alkaline or neutral soil. If the pH drops below 6.5, the acidity can cause phosphorus to become less available, resulting in misshapen roots.

If your beets also develop red or purplish tips on the leaves, that’s a definite sign that you need to test your soil and adjust the pH accordingly.

You can make your soil more alkaline by adding lime according to the recommendations in your test results or on the package.

Not Enough Water

If you notice cracks in your beet roots, it likely means that they didn’t get enough water at the right time. If they experienced any drought while growing or inconsistent water, cracking often results.

You may be able to see if your plants are struggling with dehydration if you notice the tops starting to droop or turn yellow.

To avoid this, be sure to give plants water regularly and don’t let them dry out completely. The soil should feel moist, like a well-wrung-out sponge.

If you stick your finger in the dirt and it feels dry past one inch, it’s time to get out the hose. Water at the soil level rather than sprinkling the foliage.

Pests and Diseases to Watch For

On top of these common planting issues, deformed or small roots can be the result of an insect infestation or disease.

Insects

We have an entire guide dedicated to figuring out what’s bugging your beet plants and how to deal with it , so we’ll just touch on what to watch for here.

Aphids

If the tops of your beets seem to be stunted, along with the roots themselves, get out your magnifying glass and look for aphids.

There are a handful of aphids from the Myzus and Aphis genera that will attack beets, and in large enough numbers, all of them can stunt growth.

Look for tiny green, brown, yellow, or tan insects congregating on the underside of leaves.

Nematodes

When it comes to small or deformed beets, if you’ve checked everything else out, you may have nematodes (Meloidogyne) in your soil.

Nematodes can cause the roots to be stunted, hairy, and/or small.

Disease

Beets may suffer from several types of diseases, but there are two in particular to watch for that can cause roots to be stunted or misshapen.

Check out our guide to beet diseases to learn more.

Downy Mildew

Downy mildew can cause roots to be misshapen and to have rough skin. Downy mildew is caused by the water mold or oomycete Peronospora farinosa.

Above ground, you’ll notice gray mold on leaves and large, light green spots.

Root Rot

Root rot causes roots to be misshapen or to have a dry, black center.

It’s caused by the pathogen Rhizoctonia crocorum, which also causes the leaves to wilt or turn yellow or brown. Like the roots, they may also be distorted or small.

Read on to learn about these diseases and how to control them.

Black Rot

Black rot is one of the most damaging bacterial pathogens that can infect turnips and rutabagas. Caused by Xanthomonas campestris pv. campestris, this organism can destroy the leaves and enter the plant’s vascular system, causing systemic disease throughout the plant and eventually killing it.

As its name indicates, you can end up with a black, rotten plant if the organism is not contained.

Starting with clean seed is key to avoiding this disease, and you can buy seed that is certified to be free of black rot. This disease is particularly problematic because your plants can be infected for as long as 14 days before they show any symptoms. By this time, the disease may have already spread throughout your whole crop.

The first symptom of note is usually yellowing of the lower leaves. Mature leaves will often have V-shaped lesions on their edges. The veins on the plant will eventually turn black.

Preventing this bacterium from becoming established is the best way to control black rot.

Read more about identifying and controlling black rot here.

Bacterial Leaf Spot

In addition to black rot, two other types of bacteria may cause leaf spots on turnips and rutabagas. One is a bacterium that is closely related to black rot – X. campestris pv. amoraciae (Xca) – and the other is Pseudomonas syringae pv. maculicola (Psm).

Both types of bacteria cause small, water-soaked lesions that can spread and join together to destroy the greens. Both types of infections cause yellow halos, but you can tell them apart because Xca produces much more noticeable halos.

These are serious infections that are difficult to control, and they can destroy your crop. Psm infects plants at cool temperatures, typically in the early spring and fall. In contrast, Xca infections occur at times with warmer temperatures. This is usually a problem in the summer.

Similarly to black rot, preventing these bacteria from becoming established is the key to avoiding bacterial leaf spot disease.

Read more about indentifying and controlling bacterial leaf spot here.

Oomycete Diseases

In case you have not heard of oomycetes, they are a group of organisms that were once considered fungi but are now classified as water molds. However, they act like fungi!

These organisms do not kill their hosts, but they can cause significant damage to the leaves. As with the bacterial diseases described above, preventing the initial infection is the best way to control oomycete diseases.

As indicated by their name, water molds like wet conditions. Purging cruciferous weeds and minimizing overhead irrigation are also ways to control these diseases.

Downy Mildew

In contrast, downy mildew caused by Peronspora parasitica can be a serious disease for turnips and rutabagas, especially in cool conditions such as those present in the fall.

This organism can kill young seedlings and seriously affect the greens. Severe infections can also spread from the crown into the root and cause cracking.

Your plants can have a low-level infection that you are unaware of that can suddenly spread throughout the rows when conditions become favorable, such as when there is a lot of moisture present.

The symptoms include yellow patches on the upper leaves. If the weather is right, the underside of the leaves will appear to have patches or a covering of white mildew.

If you expect that this pathogen will be a problem, you can preemptively treat with copper hydroxide (Kocide) or fungicides.

Fungal Diseases

A number of fungi may cause disease on the leaves or the roots of turnips and rutabagas.

Alternaria Leaf Spot

Two species of the fungus Alternaria, A. brassicicola and A. brassicae, can cause a cosmetic disease on turnip and rutabaga leaves. While this does not impact the roots, it can render the greens difficult to sell – both at the farmers market and on your dinner table – and visually unappealing.

This disease can be diagnosed fairly easily. Spots ranging from yellow to black form on the leaves, and then develop concentric rings like a target. The disease can spread to the seed pods, stems, petioles, and flowers.

You can often prevent this disease from afflicting your crop by planting disease-free seed, controlling cruciferous weeds, and doing your best to keep your plants dry.

If your turnip or rutabaga plants do contract this infection, you can use microbes (biofungicides) to help control it. Sprays with copper hydroxide (Kocide) or synthetic fungicides are other options to control this disease.

Read more about identifying and treating Alternaria Leaf Spot.

White Spot

The pathogen Cercosporella brassicae is another fungus that can infect turnip and rutabaga leaves.

The lesions that it causes range from gray to brown, with margins that are slightly darkened.

The fungus can infect seed, or be spread from cruciferous plants like volunteers or weeds. High humidity and cool temperatures help to facilitate the spread of this type of infection.

Minimizing wetness on the plants and controlling cruciferous weeds will help to control white spot. If you think the conditions are favorable for its spread, you can spray protective fungicides on a weekly basis.

Read more about controlling white spot here.

Anthracnose

The fungus Colletotrichum higginsianum causes small, circular, dry lesions on the leaves, and severe infections can kill them. Gray to tan lesions can also form on the roots.

The lesions also predispose infected turnips and rutabagas to bacterial soft rot.

Infected seed can be a source of this fungus, but it can also spread from fallen leaves and some types of wild crucifer weeds such as wild radish, shepherd’s purse, wild mustard, and pepper grasses.

The disease typically occurs during moist, warm weather, and it can be controlled with fungicides.

Clubroot

The particularly nasty fungus Plasmodiophora brassicae infects the roots of turnips and rutabagas, leaving them full of galls and highly deformed.

The damage may appear to have been caused by nematodes, and can be difficult to diagnose.

Unfortunately, this fungus can survive in the soil for more than 10 years and is next to impossible to eliminate.

Since control is not an option, prevention is your best bet. Only plant certified disease-free seed, and be careful about spreading the fungus from infected plants.

Viral Diseases

Turnip Mosaic

Both cabbage and peach aphids spread turnip mosaic virus, which can severely affect plants.

This disease can cause dead areas and a diagnostic pattern of yellow and green mosaics on the leaves. The older leaves may turn yellow, and plant growth will be stunted.

Turnip mosaic virus can greatly reduce yields.

The best way to control this disease is to control the aphids. One way to do this is to use reflective mulches. If necessary, you can also use insecticides for this purpose. Beneficial insects may offer a helping hand (er, leg? mandible?) as well.

Read more about controlling this viral infection here.

A Plethora of Diseases Attack Turnips and Rutabagas

Numerous bacterial and fungal diseases may attack turnips and rutabagas. In addition, the water molds white rust and downy mildew are potential pathogens, and turnip mosaic viruses may severely affect the yields.

But this isn’t a reason to avoid growing these delicious root crops!

Knowing the symptoms of infection by these pathogens can help you to diagnose these ailments, and to determine what control measures are appropriate.

Planting only certified disease-free seeds can prevent many of these diseases from becoming introduced or established, although volunteer plants and cruciferous weeds can harbor reservoirs of many of these pathogens.

Foxglove’s (Digitalis spp.) striking tall stalks of tubular blooms are early spring’s show stopper in the cottage garden and cut flower arrangements. Hummingbirds and bees also love these beautiful flowers. Learn how to grow foxglove (even if you live in a hot climate like the low desert of Arizona) and add these stunning flowers to your garden. 

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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How to Grow Foxglove: 7 Tips for Growing Foxglove

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1. Try different varieties of foxglove

Common foxgloves are biennial, which means in the first year, foliage forms; in the second year, it blooms, beginning in the spring. If first-year blooms are desired, look for newer hybrid varieties that bloom in the first year. 

Varieties to try: 

Alba: Pure white flowers with 4-foot stalks.*

Apricot Beauty: Apricot-pink flowers with spotted interiors; 3-4 feet tall.*

Dalmation Peach and Camelot Mix: Hybrids that bloom the first year from seed. (Best for hot climate areas.)

*Floret Flower’s picks for cut flowers

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2. Start foxglove seeds indoors or purchase transplants

In most areas, foxglove grows best from transplants. To help ensure blooms, approximately 3-4 weeks before starting seeds indoors, cold stratify the seeds by placing seeds in a jar or plastic bag filled with damp seed-starting mix or peat moss. 

Start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before planting outside. To plant seeds that have been cold stratified, fill the container with a seed-starting mixture and spread moist peat moss/seed mixture on the top of the container. Do not cover the seed as light is required for germination. Place under a humidity dome and provide light for 8-10 hours daily.

Once seedlings sprout, carefully transplant them into individual containers. 

In the low desert of Arizona, start foxglove seeds indoors from July – August. 

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3. Plant foxglove outside in the fall

Plant seedlings in the garden at least 6 weeks before your first fall frost. The leaves will grow and then go dormant during the cold months of fall and winter. As temperatures warm in the spring, the plants will grow and bloom. Foxgloves are generally hardy to 30°F (-1°C).

In the low desert of Arizona, plant seedlings outdoors from September – October.

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4. Choose the best location for planting foxglove

Choose an area that receives plenty of sunlight.

In hot climate areas like the low desert of Arizona, partial sun with afternoon shade is preferred and will prolong bloom time in the spring. 

The soil for foxgloves should be slightly acidic or neutral pH, have plenty of added compost, and be well-draining. Avoid wet soil in the winter.

Plant foxglove transplants at the same level as the nursery pot.

Space foxgloves 1-2 feet apart, depending on the variety. Foxglove blooms are typically quite tall (from 3-5 feet), so they are well-suited for the back of the planting area. 

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5. Care for foxglove as it grows

• Foxglove grows best in moist (not wet)soil; do not let them dry out. 
• Mulch plants after planting. 
• Add a thin layer of compost to the growing plants in the spring. 
• Stake tall varieties. 
• Deadhead the center stalk after flowering to encourage additional stalks later in the season. 
• Remove spent blooms at the end of the season to limit self-sowing and increase their perennial tendencies, or leave blooms in place to encourage reseeding and attract birds. 

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6. Keep an eye out for pests and diseases on foxglove

Because all parts of foxglove are poisonous (use care with children and pets), it is deer and rabbit-resistant. Possible pests include aphids, Japanese beetles, mealy bugs, and thrips. 

Reduce opportunities for disease by allowing good airflow between plants, not getting water on leaves, and planting in well-draining soil. 

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7. Foxglove cut flower tips

For the longest vase life, harvest early when just a few bottom blossoms are open before bees pollinate the flowers. For more information about making flower arrangements from your garden, read this post.

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If this post about how to grow foxglove was helpful, please share it:

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Sources for this article about how to grow foxglove: 

Floret Farm’s Cut Flower Garden by Erin Benzakein with Julie Chai

The Old Farmer’s Almanac Flower Gardener’s Handbook 

Foxglove’s (Digitalis spp.) striking tall stalks of tubular blooms are early spring’s show stopper in the cottage garden and cut flower arrangements. Hummingbirds and bees also love these beautiful flowers. Learn how to grow foxglove (even if you live in a hot climate like the low desert of Arizona) and add these stunning flowers to your garden. 

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Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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How to Grow Foxglove: 7 Tips for Growing Foxglove

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1. Try different varieties of foxglove

Common foxgloves are biennial, which means in the first year, foliage forms; in the second year, it blooms, beginning in the spring. If first-year blooms are desired, look for newer hybrid varieties that bloom in the first year. 

Varieties to try: 

Alba: Pure white flowers with 4-foot stalks.*

Apricot Beauty: Apricot-pink flowers with spotted interiors; 3-4 feet tall.*

Dalmation Peach and Camelot Mix: Hybrids that bloom the first year from seed. (Best for hot climate areas.)

*Floret Flower’s picks for cut flowers

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2. Start foxglove seeds indoors or purchase transplants

In most areas, foxglove grows best from transplants. To help ensure blooms, approximately 3-4 weeks before starting seeds indoors, cold stratify the seeds by placing seeds in a jar or plastic bag filled with damp seed-starting mix or peat moss. 

Start seeds indoors 10-12 weeks before planting outside. To plant seeds that have been cold stratified, fill the container with a seed-starting mixture and spread moist peat moss/seed mixture on the top of the container. Do not cover the seed as light is required for germination. Place under a humidity dome and provide light for 8-10 hours daily.

Once seedlings sprout, carefully transplant them into individual containers. 

In the low desert of Arizona, start foxglove seeds indoors from July – August. 

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3. Plant foxglove outside in the fall

Plant seedlings in the garden at least 6 weeks before your first fall frost. The leaves will grow and then go dormant during the cold months of fall and winter. As temperatures warm in the spring, the plants will grow and bloom. Foxgloves are generally hardy to 30°F (-1°C).

In the low desert of Arizona, plant seedlings outdoors from September – October.

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4. Choose the best location for planting foxglove

Choose an area that receives plenty of sunlight.

In hot climate areas like the low desert of Arizona, partial sun with afternoon shade is preferred and will prolong bloom time in the spring. 

The soil for foxgloves should be slightly acidic or neutral pH, have plenty of added compost, and be well-draining. Avoid wet soil in the winter.

Plant foxglove transplants at the same level as the nursery pot.

Space foxgloves 1-2 feet apart, depending on the variety. Foxglove blooms are typically quite tall (from 3-5 feet), so they are well-suited for the back of the planting area. 

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5. Care for foxglove as it grows

• Foxglove grows best in moist (not wet)soil; do not let them dry out. 
• Mulch plants after planting. 
• Add a thin layer of compost to the growing plants in the spring. 
• Stake tall varieties. 
• Deadhead the center stalk after flowering to encourage additional stalks later in the season. 
• Remove spent blooms at the end of the season to limit self-sowing and increase their perennial tendencies, or leave blooms in place to encourage reseeding and attract birds. 

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6. Keep an eye out for pests and diseases on foxglove

Because all parts of foxglove are poisonous (use care with children and pets), it is deer and rabbit-resistant. Possible pests include aphids, Japanese beetles, mealy bugs, and thrips. 

Reduce opportunities for disease by allowing good airflow between plants, not getting water on leaves, and planting in well-draining soil. 

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7. Foxglove cut flower tips

For the longest vase life, harvest early when just a few bottom blossoms are open before bees pollinate the flowers. For more information about making flower arrangements from your garden, read this post.

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Sources for this article about how to grow foxglove: 

Floret Farm’s Cut Flower Garden by Erin Benzakein with Julie Chai

The Old Farmer’s Almanac Flower Gardener’s Handbook