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  • From digital to tangible: bringing your photos to life in albums – Growing Family

    From digital to tangible: bringing your photos to life in albums – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    It’s so easy to capture and share pictures with people all over the world now. Undoubtedly, digital photography and storage on easily shareable platforms like Instagram, Facebook, and others have significantly influenced how we use and engage with our images.

    However, there are still advantages to using a traditional photo album book, and they are perhaps more crucial now than ever. Here’s why.

    photo albums on a shelf

    Photos spring to life

    You’ve chosen a photographer and scheduled a shoot with your family. You laugh a lot, have a fantastic time, and create new memories during the session. Moreover, you smile each time you view these digital photographs. So why hide them away on your computer?

    A photo album is a simple way to breathe life into your photos and make them quick and easy to access.

    It’s something that can be passed down

    USB drives are seldom used for preserving family memories. In the end, what we really pass down from one generation to the next isn’t a flash drive or an external hard drive; rather, it’s the actual images of our loved ones.

    A photo album book embodies the people, places, and things that hold significance for us, making them enduring keepsakes.

    Digital files may disappear over time

    Keeping thousands of photographs on your devices has never been simpler thanks to modern technology. Sending emails, sharing, and printing digital photos is a breeze when you have the time. The issue is that files can eventually become lost within your filing system. In the event of any mishap, you might not have a backup of your treasured photos.

    A photo album is a thoughtful gift

    Photo albums also make heartfelt and thoughtful gifts for special occasions. Your loved ones will undoubtedly be touched by a beautifully crafted picture album filled with special events and memories. It’s the perfect gift for a wedding, anniversary, birthday, and more. 

    A documentation of accomplishments

    Your photo albums serve as living proof of your accomplishments, life events, and personal growth. They guide you in recognising your progress, the hurdles you’ve overcome, and the goals you’ve achieved. They can even provide inspiration and a sense of self-worth – and all the associated positive feelings.

    Creating albums from our photographs is similar to assembling a time capsule of your life’s experiences. A tangible photo album book is an easy way to deliver cherished and shared memories, and a brilliant opportunity to celebrate the people and events that matter the most.

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    Catherine

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  • DIY Pea Trellis Ideas: 7 Easy Ways to Support Peas

    DIY Pea Trellis Ideas: 7 Easy Ways to Support Peas

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    DIY Pea Trellis Ideas: 7 Easy Ways to Support Peas













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    Niki Jabbour

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  • Christmas Tree Care: How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive

    Christmas Tree Care: How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive

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    Picking a fresh Christmas tree is one of the best parts of the season. However, you’ll need to learn Christmas tree care to keep the magic going all month long. This post will show you how to keep a Christmas tree alive throughout the whole holiday season.

    For centuries, the Christmas tree has been an honoured tradition for the holiday season. The pagans first brought in evergreen boughs during the winter solstice to remind themselves of the greenery of spring.

    Taking inspiration from the pagans, the Christmas tree originated in Germany. The first Christmas tree was said to belong to Martin Luther, who was in awe of the brilliance of the stars among evergreens. To recreate the beauty, he placed a tree in his home and decorated it with lighted candles.

    The German settlers in Pennsylvania brought this tradition to America, erecting their first trees in 1747. It wasn’t until the 1980s that Christmas trees rose in popularity, and people began decorating their own.

    To keep this brilliant tradition going, grab a fresh tree from your local seller. Many people avoid the mess of a real tree, but with the proper Christmas tree care, you can lose very few needles. Then you have a fresh, wonderful-smelling tree that’s much better for the environment.

    Keep on reading for all my tips on how to keep a Christmas tree alive.

    Christmas tree rowsChristmas tree rows
    I worked as a Christmas tree seller for many years, and have gained lots of knowledge about Christmas tree care as a result.

    Quick Tips for Caring for a Real Christmas Tree

    • The best tree starts with selection. Buy a fresh tree and test for needle retention. Gently tug along the branch; only a few needles should fall off.
    • Christmas trees must be placed in water 6-8 hours after being cut down. If you’re buying them from a lot, ask the seller to cut off the end 1-2 inches.
    • Check the water levels of your Christmas tree every day. Don’t let it dry out!
    • Keep your tree away from heat sources to stop it from drying out.
    • Add a humidifier if your tree is in a dry room or climate.

    How to Keep a Christmas Tree Alive

    Your perfect Christmas tree is only perfect if it lasts through the season! With these tips for caring for a real Christmas tree, you will be able to choose a tree that is fresh, as well as learn how to keep it alive and beautiful throughout the holidays.

    Pick the Freshest Tree Possible

    Head to a local tree farm and cut your own for the freshest tree. If you buy your tree from a lot, there is a simple test to help you decide if it is fresh enough to take home. The last thing you want is for all the needles to drop as soon as you hang your decorations.

    Test tree freshness by holding a branch tip firmly between your thumb and forefinger; pinch the branch slightly higher with the opposite hand and slide your fingers up the branch against the grain. The needles should not come off the branch. (As a side note, this is the easy way to remove leaves from woody herbs like rosemary, sage, and thyme.)

    Now that you know it’s fresh, make sure that you choose a tree that is right for your space with the help of this guide: How to Choose the Right Fresh Christmas Tree for Your Family.

    caring for a real Christmas treecaring for a real Christmas tree
    Christmas trees begin drying out as soon as they leave the tree farm.

    Make a Fresh Cut

    Keep your tree fresh by cutting a 1-2 inch thick slice off the base of the trunk before placing it in water. You may not have a saw handy, so ask if they can cut it at the tree lot before you take it home. Most sellers will automatically make a fresh cut for you.

    Get the tree in the water right away if possible. Otherwise, you can leave it for 6-8 hours before you will need to make another fresh cut. If you can’t erect your Christmas tree right away, try to place it in a bucket of water and leave it somewhere unheated. A garage will protect it from wind and avoid freezing the water.

    Water, Water, Water

    Christmas trees drink LOTS of water so be sure to check the water levels daily. Purchase a stand that will hold enough water. The box should give an estimate of how much water it holds, but remember, that won’t count the water displacement when the trunk is in it.

    As a general rule, a tree drinks 1 quart of water for every inch in diameter. A tree trunk 3 inches wide will drink 3 quarts of water a day. Keep this in mind when buying a tree and stand.

    Display your fresh Christmas tree out of direct sunlight and away from heat vents. Do not let the reservoir in the tree stand dry out ever. All of these things dry out the tree more rapidly and speed its demise.

    how to keep a Christmas tree alivehow to keep a Christmas tree alive
    Cutting a Christmas tree down right at the farm is a must-try experience.

    Help! My Christmas Tree is Not Drinking Water

    Christmas trees need a fresh cut before you bring them inside. It can only be out of water for 6-8 hours before you need to make another cut to the base of the trunk to encourage it to drink more water. Most sellers will automatically cut the base of the trunk for this reason.

    While it may be a hassle, and messy, cutting 1-2 inches off the base of the trunk will encourage the tree to drink water.

    Living Christmas Tree Care

    An increasingly popular choice for Christmas trees is to purchase a potted living tree. If you decide to get a living Christmas tree this year, plan on keeping it in the house for no more than a few days. The dry, warm air may be lovely for you, but it takes a toll on an evergreen.

    Keep it Outside

    Once you have celebrated with your tree, it’s time to set it back outside. You don’t need to plant it right away, which is good because some areas might be hard with frozen soil! But even setting it back into its natural environment should be done with caution. It is important that the tree be re-acclimatized to outdoor conditions gradually when returning outdoors.

    Water Well

    Place it in an unheated, sheltered location for a day or so for the transition. After that, water it well and take it back outside. If the ground is not frozen, plant it. If the ground is frozen, protect the root ball by insulating it in a moistened mulch or straw pile until it thaws outside.

    What to Do After Christmas

    With these tips on how to keep a Christmas tree alive, your fresh tree will look gorgeous for the holidays and provide your family with plenty of enjoyment. What should you do after Christmas?

    Look up your local tree recycling programs. Some have a roadside pickup, while others have central drop-off locations. I know of at least one city that has a great program where you can take your tree to a goat farm and stay to watch the goats chow down. They go after the trees like crazy, and they will eat all the needles and branches right down to the trunk!

    Or you can always get a bit crafty! Why not make some of these fun projects with your recycled Christmas tree?

    Frequently Asked Questions About Christmas Tree Care

    When it comes to people wondering how to keep a Christmas tree alive, I get a lot of questions. Reference this quick guide to help figure out how to care for your tree.

    What do you put in Christmas tree water to keep the tree fresh?

    You may have seen advertisements for Christmas tree food or other homemade recipes to help keep your tree fresh. But don’t add anything to your water! Additives such as bleach, aspirin, sugar, or anything advertised for Christmas trees are completely unnecessary. In fact, some may harm the tree. Just plain water is all your tree needs to make it through the holiday season.

    How do you keep a Christmas tree from drying out?

    Every single day, check the water levels of your tree. Your tree trunk should always be submerged in at least 2 inches. A Christmas tree stand should hold a minimum of 1 quart of water, or you will notice yourself refilling it multiple times a day.

    Besides lots and lots (and lots) of watering, don’t let your tree get too hot. Consider lowering the temperature of the room your tree will call home. This may mean placing it in a room you don’t spend too much time in. Keep it away from all heating sources, such as fireplaces, heating vents, and direct sunlight.

    If your home is naturally dry, consider adding a humidifier to the room to help prevent your tree from drying out.

    What do you do if your Christmas tree doesn’t drink water?

    If you’re checking the water levels and notice it’s not changing, your tree is likely not drinking any water. This means you will need to make another fresh cut. When you cut a tree, resin seeps out and can block the pores that intake water.

    Upon purchasing, the seller should make a fresh cut to help them absorb water. If you need to make one yourself, the cut should be at least 1-2 inches.

    Is it normal for needles to fall out of the Christmas tree?

    A Christmas tree will naturally drop needles throughout the holidays. But if you notice it’s dropping a TON, your tree is dried out. Water well and keep it away from heat to prevent needle loss.

    When choosing a Christmas tree, make sure it’s fresh. Fresh trees should only lose a couple of needles when you pull along the branches. You can tap the tree on the ground if it’s not too big and see how many needles fall off.

    As your tree ages, it will drop more and more needles. You want to try and take the tree down before it dries up entirely, or cleanup will be a big chore!

    best type of christmas treebest type of christmas tree

    Can you overwinter a Christmas tree?

    You cannot overwater a Christmas tree. They need lots of water inside the home, especially during their first week, so always keep the stand full of water.

    The general rule is that you need a quart of water for every inch in diameter. For example, a trunk 2 inches wide will drink 2 quarts of water daily. This rule helps you pick the suitable size stand and tree to match each other.

    How long can Christmas trees last without water?

    Christmas trees can last 6-8 hours without water before they will begin to dry out. While transporting, keep the surface of the fresh-cut clean and avoid any damage.

    When at home, leave it in water and the garage until you can bring it inside to set up. If it’s more than 6-8 hours later, you must make another fresh cut to the tree.

    Do Christmas trees need sugar water?

    Many wives’ tales will suggest adding sugar or aspirin to a tree to help revive it or encourage it to drink more water. But you don’t need to add anything to your water. This likely comes from the idea of adding sugar to vases as flower food. Your Christmas tree is so big it won’t need the sugar to stay alive for a few weeks.

    Stephanie and kiddo at Christmas tree farmStephanie and kiddo at Christmas tree farm

    Do you have any more questions about how to keep a Christmas tree alive? Drop them in the comments down below, and I’ll answer them as soon as I can. Until then, Merry Christmas!

    More Christmas Posts:

    How to care for a fresh christmas tree and make it lastHow to care for a fresh christmas tree and make it last

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Rest In Peace, Astrud Gilberto | The Survival Gardener

    Rest In Peace, Astrud Gilberto | The Survival Gardener

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    As I was listening to Astrud Gilberto this week, I discovered that she passed away earlier this year:

    BRASILIA, June 6 (Reuters) – Brazilian singer Astrud Gilberto, the voice of Bossa Nova whose soft and dreamy version of “The Girl from Ipanema” was an international success in the 1960s, has died at the age of 83, her family said.

    Gilberto died on Monday at her home in Philadelphia, her granddaughter Sofia Gilberto said on social media.

    “Life is beautiful, as the song says, but I bring the sad news that my grandmother became a star today and is next to my grandfather Joao Gilberto,” the granddaughter wrote.

    Guitarist Joao Gilberto, who died in 2019, was Astrud’s former husband and the pioneer composer and songwriter of Bossa Nova, which mixed Brazilian samba music with “cool jazz” in the late 1950s.

    He collaborated with U.S. saxophonist Stan Getz in 1963 on the album “Getz/Gilberto” that popularized the new Brazilian sound worldwide.

    Astrud performed the vocals in English, including the duet “The Girl from Ipanema” which became the album’s major hit. “Getz/Gilberto” won three Grammy Awards including Album of the Year, the first time a jazz album received the accolade.

    “The Girl from Ipanema” was the first song the 22-year-old Astrud recorded and launched her career almost by accident. In later interviews, she said she was in the New York studio where Getz and her then-husband were recording and he suggested she do the song as he did not sing in English.

    She later moved to the United States, where she toured with Getz, singing Bossa Nova and American jazz standards.

    I’ve listened to her for years and loved her very real voice and low-key style.

    Fame is fleeting, and death comes to us all. Rest in peace, Astrud.

    Image at top via Getty Images

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  • 25 best low maintenance evergreen plants for pots – Growing Family

    25 best low maintenance evergreen plants for pots – Growing Family

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    Are you looking for advice on the best low maintenance evergreen plants for pots?

    This article covers 25 fantastic evergreen plants to inspire your container gardening and help you create a stunning display all year round.

    These 25 fantastic evergreen plants for pots will inspire your container gardening and help you create a stunning display all year round.These 25 fantastic evergreen plants for pots will inspire your container gardening and help you create a stunning display all year round.

    The best evergreen plants for pots

    We’ve included evergreen shrubs, flowering evergreen plants, and potted evergreen trees, so there’s something for every container size and location. Whether you’ve got one pot to fill, or a whole garden full of containers, you’ll find the perfect option here.

    What is an evergreen plant?

    An evergreen plant is a plant that doesn’t lose its leaves. Unlike deciduous shrubs and plants, which lose their leaves at some point in the year (usually winter), evergreen plants retain their foliage, adding more leaves each year.

    Examples of evergreen plants include holly, conifer, eucalyptus, bay and camellia.

    Why use evergreen plants in pots and containers?

    There are lots of great reasons why you should think about using evergreen plants in pots:

    • Year-round interest: evergreen plants provide year-round colour, texture and interest. This is particularly useful in winter months and early spring, when most plants are dormant.
    • Low-maintenance container gardening: you won’t need to replace all your potted plants every season. Evergreen plants are also usually very hardy, which means you don’t have to worry about plant protection in colder months.
    • Money saving: if you look after them, evergreen plants will look good year in year out. That means you can buy less plants – great news if you’re gardening on a budget.
    • Lots of choice: there’s a wide range of evergreen plants for pots, offering lush foliage, stunning flowers or bright berries for garden wow factor.

    25 low maintenance evergreen plants for pots

    Let’s dive into our top picks for container gardening with the best all year round plants for pots.

    Flowering evergreen plants for pots

    pink camellia flowerspink camellia flowers

    Camellias

    Camellias are best known for their flowers, and those beautiful blooms will certainly create impact in early spring.  But the foliage is well worth a mention too. Camellias have glossy dark green leaves that will add texture to a potted display all year round.

    Camellia plants are happiest in slightly acidic soil, and you can provide this by using *ericaceous compost in your pot.  They are native to the woodlands of South Asia, so they will also thank you for a shady spot or somewhere that has filtered light.

    pink heather plantpink heather plant

    Heather

    Heathers are compact plants with interesting texture and bags of colour.  The abundant small flowers will bloom throughout winter and into spring, providing a much-needed source of pollen and nectar for insects.

    Heathers like acidic soil, so they’re another candidate for *ericaceous compost.

    japanese skimmia plants in potsjapanese skimmia plants in pots

    Japanese Skimmia (Skimmia japonica)

    Skimmias have glossy leaves and spring flowers, followed by bright red berries in autumn and winter – perfect for a festive show of colours.

    To get those all-important berries, you need female plants (such as ‘Kew White’, “Temptation’ or ‘Nymans’), plus a male plant (such as ‘Kew Green’ or ‘Rubella’) nearby.

    daphne shrub flowersdaphne shrub flowers

    Daphne Odora ‘Aureomarginata’

    This Daphne variety is a lovely evergreen for pots, with variegated leaves and beautiful pale pink blooms with a powerful fragrance.  It can grow pretty big – up to 1.5 metres high – so make sure you choose a big pot if you want to grow this flowering shrub.

    wintergreen plant berries and leaveswintergreen plant berries and leaves

    Wintergreen

    Another good candidate for festive colours, Wintergreen (or Gaultheria procumbens) is compact and low-growing.  Use it in smaller pots over winter months.

    cotoneaster plant berries and leavescotoneaster plant berries and leaves

    Cotoneaster

    White flowers, red berries and green leaves: cotoneaster has plenty to offer.  It’s easy to grow, and you can choose from low-growing or upright evergreen varieties.

    Clematis cirrhosa var. purpurascens ‘Freckles’

    If you can provide some *trellis in your container, this evergreen clematis is a great option.  The impressive flowers have freckle-like markings and will help to liven up the garden in winter.  It’s a compact variety, and doesn’t need lots of pruning.

    hebe plant with purple flowershebe plant with purple flowers

    Hebe

    Hebe plants give you lots of options on foliage colour.  Dense leaves and a low-growing habit make them ideal for filling up pots and providing impact and texture.  Most varieties produce flowers in summer months too.

    photinia plant with deep red leavesphotinia plant with deep red leaves

    Photinia ‘Little Red Robin’

    This is a lovely low-maintenance evergreen shrub for a large planter.  Bright red leaves mature into deep green shades, and there are white flowers in spring.

    Photinia ‘Little Red Robin’ is bushy in nature and will grow to around 1 metre tall.

    Sweet box (Sarcococca confusa)

    Another large shrub option when it comes to evergreens for containers, sweet box combines dense foliage with highly scented small white flowers in midwinter that give way to black berries. Grow it near a doorway or path to make the most of the fragrant blooms.

    pink azalea flowerspink azalea flowers

    Evergreen Azalea (Japanese Azalea)

    For flower wow factor, azaleas are hard to beat. These low maintenance evergreen shrubs are renowned for their floral display, with an abundance of flowers in late spring and early summer. 

    Azaleas need acidic soil (*ericaceous compost) and partial shade to thrive.  If the variety you choose isn’t cold-hardy you will need to provide the pot with protection over winter.

    english lavender plants in terracotta potsenglish lavender plants in terracotta pots

    English Lavender

    English lavender retains its foliage all year round, so technically it can be classed as an evergreen plant.  The foliage will fade in colour during winter, but the plant can still provide useful structure in a container display.

    Our article on growing lavender in pots has more tips on using this fragrant favourite in containers.

    Evergreen foliage plants for pots

    clipped box plant in a potclipped box plant in a pot

    Box (Buxus sempervirens)

    Box is probably one of the most iconic evergreen shrubs for pots. Clipped pyramids, spheres and topiary shapes are an excellent choice for pots at the front door, or in a formal garden.

    Box is a pretty slow-growing shrub, which means a larger plant can be quite an investment.  The plus side of this slow growth is there’s very little maintenance; simply give your plant a trim every year to keep the new growth neat.

    If you’re keen on adding a box plant to your garden, make sure you check whether your local area has a problem with box tree caterpillar or box blight first.  If there is an issue, it’s a good idea to go for an alternative plant.

    bay laurel leavesbay laurel leaves

    Bay laurel (Laurus nobilis)

    Bay laurel is a good alternative to box plants for pots, as you can trim it into shape for a formal look.  If you choose an edible variety you can also use the fragrant leaves in your cooking.

    Bay enjoys a sunny location and free draining soil.

    pink heuchera plant leavespink heuchera plant leaves

    Heuchera

    If you’re looking for a foliage showstopper in your pots, heucheras are definitely worth considering. They’re available in a range of stunning colours, from golds and reds through to deep purples.

    In pots, heucheras will work hard to provide colour and interest when other plants have died back, or you can group them together for a foliage display.

    The majority of heucheras are evergreen, and will happily grow in a container.

    calocepahuls plant in a potcalocepahuls plant in a pot

    Calocephalus

    If you like silver tones in your planting schemes, look no further than calocephalus. The frothy, silvery stems look delicate, but it’s a hardy plant that can cope with pretty much any soil and weather. Use it to contrast with richer colours such as purples.

    succulent plants in a potsucculent plants in a pot

    Evergreen succulents

    Succulents are well-known for being low maintenance and evergreen.  Choose a hardy variety for your outdoor pots; sempervivum, sedum and agave are good options.

    fatsia japonica plant leavesfatsia japonica plant leaves

    Fatsia japonica

    If you want to go big on foliage impact, you can’t go wrong with Fatsia japonica.

    The leaves are an impressive size, an interesting shape, and a rich green.  The plant also produces white flowers followed by black berries, but it’s the leaves that steal the show here.  Grow it in a shady spot and provide plenty of nutrients.

    green ivy leavesgreen ivy leaves

    Ivy

    With its trailing habit and glossy green leaves, ivy makes a very useful evergreen plant for pots.  Use it to soften the edge of a container and increase the surface area of your planting.

    The other great reason to grow ivy in pots is you can keep it under control!

    Hart’s Tongue Fern (Asplenium scolopendrium)

    Ferns are always a great option for dense green foliage in pots, and this variety is a tough little plant. Like many ferns, it will thrive in moist, shady areas, so it’s perfect if you have a tricky spot that most plants don’t like.

    burgundy phormium plant leavesburgundy phormium plant leaves

    Phormium (New Zealand Flax)

    Phormium is an evergreen shrub that produces upright, sword-shaped leaves. As such, it’s perfect for creating drama in a pot.

    Choose from a range of colours, including greens, pinks, yellows and deep reds.

    ornamental grasses in a gardenornamental grasses in a garden

    Ornamental grasses

    Grasses make wonderful plants for outdoor pots.  They can be used to add texture, height, movement and even sound in a container, and also work brilliantly as a backdrop to flowering plants.

    Grasses can really come into their own in winter months, when their structure stands out in the less busy garden.  Great evergreen grasses include Calamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’ (Feather Reed Grass), Festuca glauca ‘Elijah Blue’ (Blue Fescue) , Deschampsia cespitosa (Tufted Hair Grass), and Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’ (Japanese Sedge).

    Varieties that die back can also look fantastic in winter; just leave the stems intact (this will also help provide garden wildlife with food and shelter).

    Evergreen trees for pots

    Emerald Green Arbovitae (Thuja occidentalis)

    If you’re short on outdoor space, this narrow evergreen tree could be the solution.  It has a natural pyramid shape and is great for adding height, but not spread, to your container display – perfect for small spaces and compact patios.  Grow it in direct sunlight for best results.

    dwarf conifer plants in potsdwarf conifer plants in pots

    Dwarf conifer

    As the name suggests, dwarf conifers are small versions of conifer trees.  Compact in size and slow-growing, they will provide foliage in a pot for many years.

    korea fir tree with coneskorea fir tree with cones

    Korean Fir (Abies Koreana)

    The Korean Fir will grow up to 50ft high, but it’s very slow-growing, so don’t rule it out for a pot.

    Grow it in full sun and well-drained soil, and it will reward you with zingy green needles and unusual purple-blue cones.  Definitely a conversation starter for a container garden.

    low maintenance evergreen plants in a potlow maintenance evergreen plants in a pot

    Care tips for evergreen plants in pots

    Evergreen plants are pretty low-maintenance, but you can still take a few steps to make sure they thrive and put on their best show.

    Here’s a quick guide to caring for evergreen outdoor plants in pots.

    • Right plant, right place: Position your evergreen potted plants in a spot that provides the conditions the plant likes.  For example, full sun, full shade, sheltered from strong winds etc.
    • Choose the right container: Make sure your pot is big enough for your plant – remember it will grow! – and has drainage holes in the bottom to prevent waterlogging.
    • Use good quality compost: Container evergreens can only access a limited amount of soil, so make sure you use a good *peat-free compost.  Check also whether your evergreen plant needs a specific type of compost. You’ll find more tips in our article on the best compost for pots.
    • Feed your container plants: potted plants will eventually exhaust the nutrients in their soil, so you need to top those up regularly.  Options for plant food include *concentrated liquid, *granules and *ready-to-pour liquid feed.
    • Water container plants when required: plants grown in containers dry out more quickly than plants grown in the ground, so it’s a good idea to keep an eye on moisture levels regularly and water if necessary.  Evergreen plants in pots won’t need much water in cooler months, but it’s still worth checking the soil on a regular basis.
    • Useful tools for container gardening: you only need a few basics, but the right tools will make life easier and help your plants thrive.  We recommend a *hand trowel, *gardening gloves, *small watering can, and *secateurs or *snips for pruning.

    More container gardening advice

    For more tips, inspiration and advice on gardening in containers, take a look at these articles:

    Pin for later: 25 best low maintenance evergreen plants for pots

    These 25 fantastic evergreen plants for pots will inspire your container gardening and help you create a stunning display all year round.These 25 fantastic evergreen plants for pots will inspire your container gardening and help you create a stunning display all year round.

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    Catherine

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  • What Makes a Garden, by Jinny Blom: A Review of Her Second Book

    What Makes a Garden, by Jinny Blom: A Review of Her Second Book

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    It is not often that one can say with confidence that a coffee table book is “long awaited,” but nothing that landscape designer and writer Jinny Blom creates is so easily boxed, not even her books. Although What Makes A Garden is generously proportioned and handsomely produced, you might find yourself carrying it around wherever you go until it is thoroughly digested. Like her last similar-sized book, the best-selling The Thoughtful Gardener, it’s not a volume to be flicked through.

    Instead, What Makes a Garden is a glorious compendium that takes readers deep into the nitty gritty, amply demonstrating that a garden is much more than a collection of things and not limited to a particular ecological manifesto. “A garden needs to be suitably planned to allow the senses true freedom,” says Jinny early on in the book. Personal pleasure still matters.

    Photography by Britt Willoughby, from What Makes a Garden.

    Above: A landscape in Italy, repaired and designed by Jinny Blom. “The success of a garden is when, after a build, the animals and birds return.”

    This is not an eco-memoir or a rallying cry to ditch the old ways. Jinny has always designed nature into her gardens, promoting shaggy shrubs and laid hedges when few others were talking about habitats for ecosystems. King Charles noticed this over 20 years ago when he asked her to design his Healing Garden for the Chelsea Flower Show. Her gardens are happily “unfettered by definition,” as is the book, which leaves no stone unturned in the discussion of every element of what makes a garden, whether “esoteric” or “exoteric,” via a thorough consideration of prima materia as well as anima mundi. Yes, it will have you reaching for a dictionary, which is partly why it can only be read slowly.

    Above: Italy. “Garden planting that can semi-naturalize a place is my personal preference. It seems to give a relaxed quality that I enjoy.”

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  • Julie’s Garden in Late Summer and Fall – FineGardening

    Julie’s Garden in Late Summer and Fall – FineGardening

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    This is Julie Prince (Julie’s Georgia Garden), with a few pictures from the late summer and fall garden. The pool garden was started in the summer of 2020. The front-drive garden was started in 2021. Both are still “works in progress”! Things are changing constantly as I try to give the garden more height and winter interest.

    Lots of yellow is provided by giant coneflowers (Rudbeckia laciniata, Zones 3–9) and black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia fulgida, Zones 4–9).

    close up of two large moonflowersWe look forward to seeing and smelling moonflower (Ipomoea alba, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) each evening.

    close up of bright pink canna liliesPink canna lilies (Canna hybrid, Zones 8–11 or as tender bulbs)

    brown cow with calfOur property is in the heart of our farm. The calves began dropping in September. There are about 60 calves on the ground now. We love taking an afternoon ride through the pastures to see the newborns and what is blooming as we go. The wildflowers have been beautiful this year despite the very dry weather that we are having.

    close up of spider that captured a waspAs you can see from this picture, lots of “critters” visit our garden. I was fascinated with this spider that had snagged a wasp for dinner.

    close up of white rose‘Iceberg’ rose bloom

    close up fo white and blue annual flowersWhite lantana (Lantana camara, Zones 8–11 or as an annual) with blue plumbago (Plumbago auriculata, Zones 9–11 or as an annual)

    close up of red and blue flowers in colorful foliageOyster plant (Tradescantia spathacea, Zones 9–11), black and blue salvia (Salvia guaranitica ‘Black and Blue’, Zones 7–11 or as an annual), red salvia (Salvia coccinea, Zones 9–10 or as an annual) and sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum, Zones 10–11 or as an annual)

    bright pink and red flowers in front of green-blue foliage plantCarolina sapphire cypress (Hesperocyparis arizonica, Zones 7–11) makes a great backdrop for cannas and red salvia.

    close up of bright pink sagePineapple sage (Salvia elegans, Zones 8–11 or as an annual) is popular with the many hummingbirds who visit the garden.

    close up of flowers and foliage in fall gardenI found the native ageratum (Conoclinium coelestinum, Zones 6–10) and transplanted some into my garden last fall. It has bloomed prolifically. I am hoping this wasn’t a mistake!

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • 9 of the Best Leaf Blowers in 2023 | Gardener’s Path Buying Guide

    9 of the Best Leaf Blowers in 2023 | Gardener’s Path Buying Guide

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    1. Echo PB-2620

    If you need a gas handheld blower to clear leaves and debris from a large yard, you should consider the Echo PB-2620, available from Home Depot.

    This durable, professional-grade model has a 25.4 cubic centimeter two-stroke engine that produces 172 miles per hour maximum air speed, with an airflow of 456 cubic feet per minute. It’s noisy to the tune of 70 decibels.

    A close up of the Echo handheld blower on a white background.

    Echo PB-2620

    With variable speed, and a “cruise control” that allows you to lock it at your desired speed, it’s able to move heavy wet leaves and a variety of other yard debris.

    The air inlet at the side of the unit features a double grid design to prevent it from clogging or getting caught up in your clothes as you work. The two-stage air filter allows you to work in dusty conditions without damage to the engine.

    Two nozzles are supplied: a round and a flared-end tube so it’s versatile and can be used for a variety of cleanup operations.

    This unit weighs just over nine pounds without gas. The translucent gas tank has a capacity of 20 fluid ounces, which gives you plenty of “gas in the tank” to get your yard chores done.

    In addition to the comfortable top handle, it has a secondary handle at the bottom of the unit for easy maneuverability and two-handed use.

    This model requires a 50:1 ratio of gas to oil or you can consider buying a premixed product for ease of use.

    The manufacturer recommends the use of fresh 89 octane gas (or higher) and a professional grade oil, such as Echo Power Blend, available at Amazon.

    The Echo PB2620 comes with a five-year consumer warranty (or a two-year commercial warranty) for your peace of mind.

    See customer reviews and check prices now on Home Depot.

    2. Echo PB-580T

    If you need the additional power and comfort of a backpack model, you will not go wrong with the Echo PB-580T Backpack Blower, available via Amazon.

    The Echo PB-580T features a 58.2 cubic centimeter two stroke engine that blows air at 215 miles per hour with a whopping 510 cubic feet per minute.

    Echo PB 580T Backpack

    The padded, vented backrest and shoulder straps spread the additional weight of this powerful, 22-pound (without gas) model.

    The unique design of the backrest allows air to circulate, keeping you cool while you work, and it features a four-point vibration reduction system for added comfort.

    With a gas tank capacity of 62 fluid ounces, you’ll be able to clear up large areas for many hours before the unit needs refueling.

    The noise rating is 70 decibels, which is reasonable for the amount of power output this model provides.

    This unit has a tube-mounted throttle with variable speed cruise control. The air filter is pleated – like the one in your car – for superior performance and durability.

    With a backpack model, you don’t have to worry about your clothes being tangled in the air intake vents. The Echo PB-580T has a leaf guard to prevent leaves, dust, or debris blocking the intake and overheating the engine.

    If you have a large lot, with numerous trees, this backpack unit will take the load off your arms and allow you to stay out longer for bigger cleanup efforts.

    A long, flexible tube allows you to maneuver around and under objects and the end of the nozzle has a metal ring around it to prevent breakage.

    The manufacturer recommends a 50:1 ratio of 89 octane (or higher) gas to oil.

    Alternatively, you can purchase a premixed product from TrueFuel via Amazon that’s ready to use. The 50:1 ratio ships in a 32-ounce steel container and stays fresh for up to two years after opening.

    The Echo PB580T ships with a five-year consumer (two-year commercial) warranty.

    Check prices now at Amazon.

    3. EGO Power+ LB5804

    The EGO Power+ LB5804, available via Amazon, is one of the most powerful battery powered leaf blowers available.

    EGO Power + LB5804

    Delivering 580 cubic feet per meter and 168 miles per hour, the Ego Power+ tackles wet and dry leaves, and a variety of garden debris.

    The included five-amp, 56-volt lithium ion battery lasts for approximately 35 minutes and takes 90 minutes to recharge.

    This unit weighs just under 10 pounds with the battery attached. The air intake – located at the back of the unit – is shielded by the battery which prevents your clothes getting caught.

    A “turbo” setting allows you to crank up the power for short bursts and a cruise control lets you choose your ideal air speed.

    The softgrip handle is comfortable and features a speed dial for quick and easy adjustment with your thumb. If I had one quibble with this unit, it’s that the balance of the handle makes the nozzle tend to point downwards a little too much, which won’t be a problem for taller folks.

    For added comfort, you can purchase a shoulder strap also available on Amazon.

    This model delivers 68 decibels of neighborly noise.

    EGO provides a five-year warranty on the tool and a three-year warranty on the battery charger.

    Check prices and read customer reviews on Amazon now.

    4. Greenworks 24252

    If your cleanup needs aren’t too expansive, and you like the idea of a battery-powered unit, consider the Greenworks 24252, available via Amazon.

    Greenworks 24252

    This lightweight machine weighs just seven pounds with the battery installed, and a two-piece extension tube increases your reach.

    A 40-volt lithium ion battery enables the motor to deliver a maximum air speed of 150 miles per hour and airflow of 135 cubic feet per minute. This model has a noise rating of 62 decibels.

    The relatively low CFM rating on this model makes it suitable for cleaning pathways and decks, and dry leaves from your lawn, but it will not handle large amounts of debris or wet leaves.

    With a battery life of 15 to 25 minutes, this unit is ideal for small-scale yard cleanup but it doesn’t pack the serious punch of some of the more powerful models.

    It features a flat-ended nozzle to focus the airflow and offers six speeds that can be selected from a dial on the comfortable handle.

    Greenworks offers a four-year warranty for your peace of mind.

    This unit is not the most powerful on our list by quite a long way, but it’s perfect for light cleanup of your deck, driveway, and yard. If you don’t require heavy-duty power, this model will get the job done.

    Read customer reviews and check prices now at Amazon.

    5. Makita XBU02PT1

    If your tool shed already includes some Makita power tools, then you’ll want to give this leaf blower, available on Amazon, serious consideration.

    Makita XBU02PT1

    The lithium ion battery is interchangeable with all other Makita cordless tools and provides a respectable 473 cubic feet per minute and 120 miles per hour.

    With a noise rating of 61 decibels, it won’t drive the neighbors completely crazy.

    The main downside to this model is the relatively short battery life. The two five-amp batteries last an average of 20 to 25 minutes on medium power, and even less on full power.

    This unit weighs just under ten pounds with two batteries installed. It ships with four batteries and they take about an hour to recharge.

    The handle features a dial that’s easy to reach and six power settings. The air intake on the back of the unit can snag loose clothing unless you keep it to one side.

    An extension attachment for the blower tube and a flat-end nozzle for those hard to reach places are available separately, also on Amazon.

    The manufacturer offers a one year warranty.

    This model is ideal for a small backyard, it’s powerful enough to make short work of your fall cleanup duties, and is especially useful for those users who already have a selection of Makita tools.

    Check prices now at Amazon.

    6. Ryobi RY42102

    The Ryobi RY42102 is a budget-friendly handheld corded electric blower available at Amazon.

    This basic model delivers a respectable 135 miles per hour and 440 cubic feet per minute. The eight-amp jet fan technology has two speeds so is not as highly adjustable as the Worx or the Toro models described below.

    Ryobi RY42102

    When it’s set on “low,” the blower pushes out 350 cubic feet per minute at 100 miles per hour. On the high setting, it delivers 440 cubic feet at 135 miles per hour. At just 65 decibels of racket, this is one of the quieter models.

    It will tackle wet and dry leaves, as well as lightweight garden debris. The comfortable softgrip handle allows for easy maneuverability of the seven-pound unit.

    You’ll need to supply your own outdoor-rated extension cord. The air intake is at the back of the unit, so be sure to keep clothing out of the way.

    Ryobi offers a three year warranty for your peace of mind.

    If you need a durable, lightweight, affordable model for general yard cleanup, the Ryobi is an ideal choice.

    See customer reviews and check prices now at Amazon.

    7. Toro PowerJet F700

    The Toro PowerJet is a handheld corded electric model, available from Home Depot.

    It delivers 725 cubic feet per minute and a speed of 140 miles per hour, which makes it only slightly less powerful than the Worx model, described below.

    A close up of the Toro PowerJet F700 on a white background.A close up of the Toro PowerJet F700 on a white background.

    Toro PowerJet F700

    Suitable for wet and dry leaves, and general yard debris, the Toro PowerJet F700 is an economical choice.

    The air intake is situated at the back of the unit, so you’ll need to hold it to one side to prevent your clothes from getting caught up. The long softgrip handle features a cord lock and an additional front handle for easy maneuverability and two-handed use.

    This 12-amp model features an adjustable speed dial that’s easy to reach with your thumb and a cruise control lock function.

    Weighing in at just under seven pounds, this is a lightweight unit that packs a lot of power. For the average suburban backyard, you’ll have your fall cleanup done in no time.

    It delivers 70 decibels of racket, which is about average for this type of unit.

    The wide nozzle is a little on the short side, which may require the user to bend down to tackle thick, wet leaf debris – but it’s perfect if you’re of a slightly shorter stature (as I am!).

    This model does not ship with an extension cord, so you’ll need to purchase one separately. It’s important to use an outdoor-rated cord, such as this one, available at Home Depot.

    With a two-year warranty, the Toro PowerJet F700 is a lightweight but durable, powerful unit that won’t break the bank.

    Check it out now on Home Depot.

    8. Worx WG520

    The Worx WG520, available at Amazon, is a handheld, corded electric model pumping out 600 cubic feet per minute with a maximum speed of 115 miles per hour.

    Worx WG520

    Weighing in at just over six pounds, this handheld blower features a variable speed control from 320 to 600 CFM, and a hyper-stream air nozzle attachment for focused airflow to help you move stubborn debris or compacted, wet leaves.

    The turbine fan technology and powerful 12-amp motor will make short work of your fall yard cleanup. And with a 50 decibel noise rating, it won’t drive your neighbors too crazy.

    It ships with or without a 100-feet-long electrical cord, and the handy cord retainer prevents you from tripping over it while you work. You can increase your reach with an outdoor-rated 12 or 14 gauge extension cord, if desired.

    The air inlet is on the back of the unit, so you’ll need to hold it to the side and keep loose clothing out of the way. The softgrip handle feels comfortable in the hand.

    You can remove the nozzle to make the unit more compact for storage.

    This model ships with a three year warranty.

    For a lightweight, handheld, corded electric model with impressive power that won’t break the bank, consider the Worx WG520 600.

    Check price and learn more at Amazon.

    9. Yardmax YF1565

    When it’s time to bring out the big guns, you might want to look at the Yardmax YF1565 wheeled leaf blower, available via Walmart.

    This walk-behind model is ideal for when you need a lot of power to clear away leaves, garbage, and other yard debris. It will tackle large areas and heavy cleanup jobs with ease. And best of all, you don’t have to carry it!

    A close up of a Yardmax walk-behind 209cc leaf blower isolated on a white background.A close up of a Yardmax walk-behind 209cc leaf blower isolated on a white background.

    Yardmax YF1565

    This wheeled machine features a 209 cubic centimeter overhead valve engine that produces an air volume of a whopping 1200 cubic feet per minute at up to 150 miles per hour.

    Its 12-inch rear wheels and eight-inch swivel front wheel make it easy to maneuver over rough or uneven terrain. It produces 76 decibels of racket – enough to wake up your neighbors on a Sunday morning.

    Weighing in at 88 pounds, this is a professional-grade unit most suitable for large expanses of yard – not those that have a lot of beds and borders with fragile plantings.

    The adjustable side handle allows you to control the direction of airflow for added versatility.

    With a four-stroke, fuel-efficient engine, you simply fill up the two-and-a-half-quart fuel tank with regular 89 octane (or higher) gas. There’s no finicky oil and gas ratios to worry about.

    With such a lot of power, you’ll need to ensure that people and pets are out of the way when you operate this machine, as flying debris can cause injury.

    The Yardmax YF1565 comes with a two-year limited warranty.

    Check prices and see reviews at Walmart.

    How to Choose a Leaf Blower

    First, how do you decide whether you want a gas, corded, or cordless model?

    Each has its pros and cons, and while there are some specific advantages and disadvantages of each type, it comes down to your own preferences and needs.

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    Clare Groom

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  • How to Propagate Houseplants from Stem and Leaf Cuttings

    How to Propagate Houseplants from Stem and Leaf Cuttings

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    The first time I ever propagated a stem cutting, it was by accident.

    I was throwing a party, and I didn’t have time to run to the market to buy flowers for the table centerpiece. So I cut a few stems off my overgrown Swiss cheese plant and stuck them in a vase filled with water.

    The leaves stayed lush and healthy, so I left them in the vase for weeks.

    I even left them when I went on a week-long vacation. I came back and checked the stems, and what do you know? They had developed a mass of roots.

    A vertical image of a variety of different houseplant stem cuttings rooting in water. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.A vertical image of a variety of different houseplant stem cuttings rooting in water. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

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    I put the surprise plants in some soil, and years later, they still grow happily in my home. In fact, I’ve propagated new specimens for dozens of people in the same way.

    I handed them out, along with some of my sourdough starter, during the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic to friends and neighbors who had caught the houseplant and bread making bugs.

    All that is a long way of saying that, at least with some species, propagation via stem and leaf cuttings is reliable, simple, and easy-as-pie. Much easier than mastering a sourdough boule.

    While we can’t help you perfect your bread baking in this guide, we can help you master the art of propagating houseplants with stem and leaf cuttings.

    To help make that happen, we’re going to talk about the following:

    The process for either propagation method is fairly similar. It’s mostly a difference in what parts of the plant you snip away from the parent.

    Let’s start by looking at some of the species that can be propagated this way.

    Species to Propagate via Cuttings

    All plants have something called a meristem. It’s the part of the plant that contains cells that are capable of dividing and developing into other types of tissue.

    That means the meristematic cells can become roots, leaves, stems, petioles, or any other part of the plant.

    A close up horizontal image of the variegated leaves of a monstera growing indoors pictured on a soft focus background.A close up horizontal image of the variegated leaves of a monstera growing indoors pictured on a soft focus background.

    Meristems are divided into different types depending on where they occur in the plant.

    • Apical meristems are present in the roots and the tips of shoots.
    • Intercalary meristems are in the internodes of the stems (the parts between the nodes) and the bases of the leaves.
    • Lateral meristems are contained in the cambium layer.

    You can make cuttings for propagation based on the types of meristems present in the plant. Basically, you remove the meristematic region, place it in a medium in which it can reproduce, and watch the cell division happen.

    Rooting stem cuttings works well with the following plants:

    Species that grow adventitious roots, which are roots that develop on the stem above the soil, are all good candidates.

    For leaf cuttings, these can be used for:

    Before you can take your cuttings, you need to be able to determine which material will work best.

    Preparation

    While it can vary from species to species, most propagation methods work best if you choose healthy, mature tissue.

    In the case of stems, you want a cutting about six inches long with at least two nodes. The leaves for leaf cuttings should be large and mature, and without any discoloration or dead areas. Avoid tiny or new leaves.

    A close up horizontal image of a small caladium growing in a pot set on a wooden table indoors.A close up horizontal image of a small caladium growing in a pot set on a wooden table indoors.

    The best time of year for propagation is typically during spring and summer when plants are actively growing.

    Many species go dormant in the late fall and winter, and that means they might not develop roots before rot sets in.

    Avoid propagating stunted leaves and stems and any tissue with brown or yellow areas, spots, or other signs of disease, such as the presence of fungal spores.

    Whether you reuse pots or choose new ones, wipe them out with isopropyl alcohol or a 10 percent solution of bleach and water (one part bleach to nine parts water).

    Young specimens are extra vulnerable to disease and you want to prevent any pathogens from infecting your plants by sterilizing your tools.

    You should always use fresh potting medium for this reason, and avoid those that contain garden soil. Seed-starting mixes are a smart option.

    Tank’s Pro-Lite Seeding and Potting Mix is one of my favorite options. It’s light and airy thanks to the addition of coconut coir and perlite.

    A close up of a bag of Tank's-Pro Lite Potting Mix isolated on a white background.A close up of a bag of Tank's-Pro Lite Potting Mix isolated on a white background.

    Tank’s Pro-Lite Seedling and Potting Mix

    Snag some at Arbico Organics in 16-quart bags.

    Make sure your tools are clean, too. You can wash them in soapy water and then wipe them with alcohol or watered-down bleach.

    Regardless of the method of propagation you choose, make a note of the light preference of the species you are propagating.

    Most houseplant cuttings do best in bright, indirect light, but there are exceptions. Some species need direct light for at least part of the day.

    There are few, if any, plants that should be propagated in a dark spot.

    Stem Cuttings

    Stem cuttings can be taken in several ways. For plants that have canes, you can take the cane along with some leaves.

    A close up horizontal image of a hand from the bottom of the frame inserting a rosemary stem into a small pot.A close up horizontal image of a hand from the bottom of the frame inserting a rosemary stem into a small pot.

    Leaf bud cuttings involve removing a small piece of stem with the petiole, if the plant has them, and a leaf. A standard stem cutting includes a piece of the stem and at least two buds.

    Leaf Bud Cuttings

    Devil’s ivy (Epipremnum aureum), dracaena, jade plants, rubber trees (Ficus elastica), fleshy peperomia, and philodendron can all be propagated by leaf bud cuttings.

    A close up vertical image of a leaf bud cutting set on a wooden surface.A close up vertical image of a leaf bud cutting set on a wooden surface.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    For a bud cutting, take just an inch or two of stem that contains a single bud and a single leaf. Moisten the stem and lightly coat the cut end in rooting hormone.

    Place the cutting in the medium so that the bud is buried, but the leaf is above the medium.

    Water the medium well so that it feels like a well-wrung-out sponge and tent a piece of plastic over the new plant.

    The plastic should never touch the leaves, so you might need to prop it up with a stick. I save my take-out chopsticks for just such an occasion.

    Cane Cuttings

    Chinese evergreen, dracaena, dumb cane, and any other species with thick stems or canes can be grown via cane cuttings.

    A close up horizontal image of a hand from the top of the frame planting a cane cutting in a small pot.A close up horizontal image of a hand from the top of the frame planting a cane cutting in a small pot.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    To take the cuttings, remove a section of stem with a sharp knife.

    Section the cane into two-inch segments, taking care to include a node, bud, or horizontal ring in each segment. Roots will emerge from these areas.

    Note which side is up on each segment so you don’t accidentally plant the segment upside-down.

    Dip the cut end in root hormone and set each segment in the medium, buried by about a third. You can also place the canes horizontally, pressed into the surface of the soil.

    Water the medium and cover the cane with a tented plastic bag.

    Herbaceous or Softwood Stem Cuttings

    Many plants can be propagated via herbaceous or softwood stem cuttings.

    A close up vertical image of a hand from the bottom of the frame trimming a stem for propagation purposes.A close up vertical image of a hand from the bottom of the frame trimming a stem for propagation purposes.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    To take a stem cutting, remove a piece of stem between three to six inches long that includes at least three sets of leaves. The bottom cut should be just below a node.

    Remove half to two-thirds of the lower leaves. If the specimen has large leaves, like a fiddle-leaf fig, for example, cut the remaining leaves in half.

    Dip the cut end in powdered rooting hormone. Poke a hole in the potting medium with a chopstick or pencil and gently lower the stem into the hole.

    A quarter of the length of the cutting should be submerged in the medium.

    A close up vertical image of stem sections placed in a pot of soil for propagation.A close up vertical image of stem sections placed in a pot of soil for propagation.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Moisten the potting medium. You can tent plastic over the container, but it isn’t required with these cuttings unless the particular species you are propagating needs high humidity.

    Leaf Cuttings

    There are three types of leaf cuttings suitable for propagation. The first is a leaf with its petiole, which is the stem-like growth that holds the leaf to the stem.

    The second is a leaf without the petiole, sometimes called a leaf blade cutting.

    This propagation method is commonly used with cacti and succulents, as well as African violets and Cape primroses (Streptocarpus spp.). Plants with thick, fleshy leaves work best for this method.

    The third is vein cuttings. Begonias are the classic choice for propagation via this method.

    A close up horizontal image of a variety of snake plant leaf cuttings rooting in terra cotta pots.A close up horizontal image of a variety of snake plant leaf cuttings rooting in terra cotta pots.

    Some species, such as snake plants, have leaves that can be chopped up into several sections for planting. You should take the entire leaf of plants like ZZ plants and African violets.

    These types of cuttings generally take longer than stem sections to develop sufficient roots that they can be transplanted.

    Don’t be surprised if it takes several months before you see any evidence of roots forming.

    Leaf Blade

    To propagate with a leaf blade, snap or cut off the leaf from the stem or just above the soil.

    In the case of thick, succulent leaves, these should be left out on a piece of cloth or a paper towel for a day to develop a callus on the cut end. This callus helps prevent rotting.

    A close up vertical image of leaf segments set on a wooden surface with a pair of scissors.A close up vertical image of leaf segments set on a wooden surface with a pair of scissors.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Once the end is callused over and feels firm and dry, moisten it and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Insert the leaf into the growing medium so the leaf sits about a third of its length deep.

    Keep the medium moist until roots develop. Even cacti should be kept slightly moist until they develop roots.

    If the species you’re working with thrives in high humidity, cover with a cloche or plastic bag propped up with a stick.

    Leaf Petiole

    This method is similar to leaf blade propagation, but you simply take the cutting to include some or all of the petiole.

    A close up horizontal image of a leaf segment with the petiole attached set on a wooden surface.A close up horizontal image of a leaf segment with the petiole attached set on a wooden surface.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    When planting the leaf in the medium, only the very bottom of the leaf should be in contact with the medium.

    After planting, moisten the medium and cover the pot in plastic propped up with a stick or a cloche, and place the container in an area with bright, indirect light.

    Most species will develop several plantlets from each cutting. You can gently separate these and plant them individually or leave them together.

    Leaf Vein

    For plants like begonias, cut off a leaf that has lots of prominent veins.

    Lightly dust the bottom with rooting hormone and lay it on top of the potting medium. Use horticultural wire or paper clips to anchor the leaf into the mix.

    The whole section must remain in contact with the medium or roots won’t be able to form.

    Moisten the potting mix and cover the pot with plastic. Eventually, plantlets will emerge from the leaf. Separate these and place them in their own containers.

    When to Transplant

    Regardless of the type, most popular houseplants do best in bright, indirect light and in soil that is moist, like a well-wrung-out sponge.

    You can check for roots after a few weeks by working your fingers under the plant and gently lifting it up. If you don’t see any roots or the roots you do see are just beginning to emerge, put it back in place and check again in a few more weeks.

    A close up horizontal image of a spider plant offshoot with roots formed set on a textured white surface.A close up horizontal image of a spider plant offshoot with roots formed set on a textured white surface.

    As long as there is no sign of rot, you can keep waiting for roots to develop. Some species take months, so don’t lose heart.

    Once you see root development, remove the plastic bag if you used one. Give it another week or two in the same conditions, and then move it into a permanent pot or location.

    A close up horizontal image of an indoor gardener filing a terra cotta pot with soil. In the background are a variety of houseplants.A close up horizontal image of an indoor gardener filing a terra cotta pot with soil. In the background are a variety of houseplants.

    How to transplant depends entirely on the species you’re working with. In general, you don’t want to move a young specimen to a container that is too large.

    One size up from the existing container should be sufficient. When you transplant, try to dig up some of the soil surrounding the new roots, if you can, to reduce shock.

    Make More Marvelous Plants

    It’s expensive to buy new houseplants. If you have access to a parent plant, whether your own or one belonging to a generous friend, you don’t need to buy them. You can propagate your own.

    A close up horizontal image of a selection of houseplant cuttings taking root in small jars of water, with a variety of mature specimens in the background.A close up horizontal image of a selection of houseplant cuttings taking root in small jars of water, with a variety of mature specimens in the background.

    What kind of houseplant are you propagating? What method will you choose? Let us know in the comments section below!

    And for more information about growing houseplants, check out these guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • From Seed to Screen: Documenting Your Garden Journey on Instagram

    From Seed to Screen: Documenting Your Garden Journey on Instagram

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    Instagram emerges as a verdant patch where garden enthusiasts sow seeds of creativity and nurture a community rooted in shared horticultural passions. A recent report revealed that gardening has become one of the most popular hobbies in America, with a remarkable 55% of American households partaking in it.

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    Documenting the metamorphosis of a seed into a blooming marvel not only fosters a digital chronicle but also cultivates a fellowship of green-thumbed individuals. Here’s how you can leaf through your garden’s narrative on Instagram, nurturing a digital Eden that flourishes in tandem with your earthly one.

    Sprouting a Narrative

    Every garden burgeons from a tale steeped in aspirations, love for nature, or perhaps a legacy. Whether your garden sprawls across acres or perches in small pots on a balcony, its journey is distinct and full of narratives waiting to be unearthed. Delve into the essence of your gardening venture: is it a homage to a loved one, a step toward sustainability, or a sanctuary of tranquility?

    Unveiling the backstories, the aspirations, and the hurdles encountered embroider a rich tapestry that resonates with others. Instagram’s Story and Highlights features can be a cozy nook where you share fleeting moments, reflections, and the daily whispers of your garden.

    However, before you start posting, you have to ensure that your channel is growing and heading in the right direction. Consider working with organic growth services to boost your presence and ensure organic growth.

    For instance, you can start your Instagram growth journey with PathSocial, an agency dedicated to boosting Instagram accounts organically and ensuring that all of your posts will be viewed and interacted with by your target audience, helping you build a strong community.

    Through the Lens: Capturing Verdant Vistas

    The heart of your Instagram garden dwells in the imagery you craft. Each photograph is a window into your garden’s soul, showcasing the tender buds yearning for the sun, the dance of leaves in the breeze, and the myriad hues painting your garden. Here are a few pointers to encapsulate the essence:

    • Quality over quantity: High-resolution images laden with clarity and detail invite viewers into the serene beauty of your garden.
    • Play with perspectives: Explore various angles, from the embracing canopy of foliage from below to the bird’s-eye view from above, each perspective unfolds a new facet of your garden.
    • Natural illumination: The soft glow of dawn or the golden embrace of dusk, natural light unveils the true palette of your garden.
    • Narrating challenges: Gardening is a journey punctuated with trials. Be it a pest invasion or a plant wilting, sharing the hurdles renders your narrative genuine and relatable.

    Time-Lapse: The Dance of Growth

    Gardening is all about patience. Time-lapse videos can encapsulate this beautiful transition, offering a mesmerizing view of your garden’s dance from dawn to dusk and seed to bloom. These dynamic snippets can be the cornerstone of your Instagram garden, offering a unique blend of education and enchantment.

    Blooming Interaction: Engaging With the Green Community

    Instagram is a thriving ecosystem of garden enthusiasts. By engaging with your community, you not only enrich your own gardening saga but also contribute to a collective reservoir of horticultural wisdom. 

    Here’s how:

    • Hashtags: Employ relevant hashtags to weave your posts into the larger garden narrative on Instagram. This not only amplifies your visibility but entwines your story with others.
    • Comments and collaborations: Engage in discussions, share your insights, and collaborate with fellow gardeners. These interactions can sprout friendships and open avenues for learning and inspiration.
    • Sharing and caring: Re-share intriguing posts, shout out commendable gardening accounts, and partake in challenges or themed posts. Your active participation seeds a camaraderie that transcends digital boundaries.

    Cultivating Knowledge: A Platform for Learning and Teaching

    Your Instagram garden can be a fertile ground for the exchange of knowledge. Each post can be a seed of wisdom, be it about a rare plant species you are nurturing, a successful composting technique, or an invitation for solutions to a gardening quandary you are facing. 

    By forging a balance between seeking advice and sharing insights, you create a symbiotic space where learning blossoms.

    Growing Together: Your Garden’s Digital Journey

    Sharing your garden’s journey on Instagram is a simple yet impactful way to connect with other garden lovers around the world. As you post pictures and stories of your garden, from the first sprout to the full bloom, you’re not just showing off your green thumb but also inviting people to join a community where they can learn and grow together.

    Your garden’s story could start with a single seed, but as it grows, so does your digital diary. Each post is a chapter of your garden’s life, showcasing both the sunny days and the stormy nights. It’s real, it’s engaging, and it’s a story only you can tell.

    And the beauty of it? You’re not alone on this journey. Instagram is a place where garden enthusiasts come together to share tips, celebrate victories, and offer a helping hand during tough times. 

    The hashtags you use, the comments you leave, and the posts you share create connections, sparking conversations and friendships with others who share your love for gardening.

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    Ann Sanders

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  • Important Tips for Maintaining Your HVAC System

    Important Tips for Maintaining Your HVAC System

    When you own a home or office space, you have lots of elements to maintain to keep people comfortable, such as your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system. If you don’t properly looked after it, it can quickly become an expensive and energy-consuming headache. Here are several important tips for maintaining your HVAC system to save money and ensure you enjoy a comfortable environment year-round.

    See if the Air Filter Needs To Be Changed

    Maintaining a regular schedule where you evaluate the status of your air filters should be your first line of defense with your HVAC system. Filters keep contaminants from entering and circulating through your space, leading to cleaner, healthier air.

    Over time, these filters accumulate dust and dirt, which can cut down on the airflow. Set a reminder to check so that you can start enjoying the benefits of regularly replacing your air filter.

    Book a Visit With Professionals

    Scheduling certified HVAC technicians to check your system regularly will help you uncover any potential issues before they become serious problems. These technicians will ensure your HVAC unit is in peak condition and can provide recommendations for its optimal function. By scheduling routine appointments, you’ll mitigate common problems like mechanical failures.

    Keep an Eye on Your Energy Bills

    Another important tip for maintaining your HVAC system is to monitor your energy bills. These can provide valuable insights into your HVAC system’s health.

    If you notice some unexpected surprises when it comes to your energy consumption, this could indicate irregularities or inefficiencies within your system. Timely investigation can help you address these issues promptly and prevent you from experiencing any further unnecessary expenditures.

    Ensure Nothing Is Blocking the Airflow

    Proper clearance around your HVAC system is crucial for its efficient functioning. As such, refrain from storing objects too close to the indoor unit, outdoor condenser, or compressor. Make it a routine to inspect the surroundings and remove any potential obstructions to ensure optimal performance. By doing so, you’ll safeguard the unit from potential damage and reduce the risk of fires.

    Incorporating these essential tips into your maintenance routine will save you money and energy and keep your system’s air flowing strong. You’ll also prolong the life of your HVAC system and enjoy a comfortable living or working environment.

  • Sugarcane Nutrient Requirements and Striving for a Better Yield | The Survival Gardener

    Sugarcane Nutrient Requirements and Striving for a Better Yield | The Survival Gardener

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    This year our sugarcane yields were much worse than they should have been.

    They put on some good growth early in the year, but the drought that has lasted since July really put a damper on their growth.

    The pile of sugarcane we harvested should have easily been three times as big.

    Many of the canes are also less thick than they should have been. We rely on the rain for most of our cane and we just didn’t get enough.

    Yet there is another limiting factor of which I’ve only recently become aware.

    Calcium. More specifically, lime.

    As UF notes:

    “Calcium deficiencies in Florida sugarcane are unlikely because this element is abundant in the soil-water environments where sugarcane is traditionally grown. Nevertheless, Ca is a macronutrient that is vitally important for plant growth. An acute shortage of Ca will lead to rapid deterioration and plant death. Most of the organic soils in Florida overlay limestone bedrock, and Ca is moved into the surface soil profile by diffusion and mass flow with soil water.

    DEFICIENCY SYMPTOMSCalcium deficiency is not a concern for sugarcane production in Florida. A Ca-deficient plant, however, is characterized by limited top and root growth and slender stalks. Older leaves acquire a “rusty” appearance and show signs of mottling and chlorosis. The spindle leaf turns brown and dies, and young leaves can become distorted. If the deficiency is severe, the terminal bud and plant may die. Calcium is considered an immobile plant element.”

    Our soils here are acidic and often need liming. Two different sugarcane growers in our area told me that liming was important to their yields.

    We fed our cane with manure in the “wagon wheels” we planted (Danny at Deep South Homestead gave us the idea) by adding manure around the canes when we planted.

    Normally sugarcane is a very easy crop to grow, yet our yields this year were poor. Part of it was obviously the drought, yet I think we also need to add more nutrients as well, starting with lime.

    Also, UF has a list of other nutrients sugarcane needs to grow properly, which interestingly, includes silicon:

    “For any crop to grow and remain healthy, certain elements (nutrients) must be made available to the plants from the soil and/or air. The “essential” elements include C, H, O, N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, B, Cl, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mo, Zn, and Ni. In Florida and some other areas of the world, application of Si may markedly enhance sugarcane production. This element qualifies as a “functional” or “beneficial” nutrient because, in the absence of Si, the plant can still complete its life cycle; however, production and general vigor may be reduced. In the Florida sugarcane industry, elements that are of nutritional concern include N, P, K, Mg, Si, B, Cu, Fe, Mn, and Zn. Deficiency or excess of one or more of the above elements may limit yields. An excess of one element may cause a deficiency of another. Growers striving to produce high crop yields should pursue management strategies that deliver a balanced supply of nutrients to the plant.”

    It’s time to plant more cane so we’ll add more nutrients this year and hope for better rain as well.

    It’s going to be very hard to plant them this fall since the ground is hard as a rock. We’ll probably have to let the hose run over an area first just to soften up the soil enough to be workable. What a weird year!

    We didn’t get enough yield to make syrup, but we did manage to get enough cane for expanding our planting area as well as giving us lots of cuttings we can propagate in our plant nursery to well in the fall. We’ve already potted up 100 plants and have some more to do, including a rarer green hybrid from Louisiana we got from our friends James and Holly.

    Maybe 2024 will be our big yield year! Try, try again.

    We will add lime, compost, kelp meal and whatever else we can find, then see what happens in spring.

    Today’s music:

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  • Blundstones: The Best Work Boots for Gardeners?

    Blundstones: The Best Work Boots for Gardeners?

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    It’s unusual that fashion trends intersect with the gardening world, where practicality, not sartorial whims, tend to rule. And long may that last. But lately it’s been hard to avoid the fact that almost every gardener, grower and, often, designers, too, seem to be united in their devotion to Blundstone boots.

    The Chelsea boots’ rise to ubiquity is down to several factors: easy elasticated sides that allow the boots to be pulled on and off in a mere second or two and; comfort that doesn’t require a break-in period (it is truly the unbox-and-wear boot); functional soles; water resistance; and near indestructible construction. But I think it’s the boots ability to look appropriate in almost any setting, easily traversing from muddy borders to city pavements, that has elevated them to ‘It” status.

    Above: At Great Dixter, Blundstone’s Safety Boot series are the boot of choice with their leather uppers, a kickguard, steel toe, as well as a heat-resistant outsole (up to 140 degrees Farenheit). Here, volunteer Louise Bell works on the meadow’s yew topiary in her steel-capped boots. Photograph courtesy of Louise Bell.

    After long-term devotion to the original boot, I recently tried out the winter thermal series which features shearling insoles and Thinsulate lining. And they are just as comfy and practical as the original all-season styles.

    Above: The waterproof Thermal Series Chelsea boot in rustic brown is £210 ($249.95). Photograph courtesy of Blundstone.

    The company was founded in the nineteenth century in Hobart, Tasmania, where the firm is still based, when British immigrant John Blundstone set up a shoe business, at first importing British made Chelsea boots and then later establishing his own factory and tannery and producing his own footwear. Despite his son joining the family business, by the Great Depression, the family was forced to sell to another family, the Cuthbertsons, who had also relocated from England and set up a shoe business in the mid-nineteenth century. Their descendants are still involved in the family firm.

    Above: Fellow Dixter volunteer Marc O’Neil, fashion designer turned garden designer, wears the brand’s vegan boots, which were introduced a couple of years ago. For professional site work, though, he says that the steel toe-capped boots are a requirement. Photograph courtesy of Louise Bell.

    Earlier this year the New York Times suggested that the humble boots could well be the defining footwear of the early 2020s. A few months later Kate Moss was on the cover of HTSI, the Financial Times weekend magazine, in a shimmering long Missoni gown and Blundstone Originals and shared that they are her go-to boot for Glastonbury, gardening, and dog walking, too. And this is the boot’s secret power—it can segue from muddy borders to city chic in an instant.

    Above: The Original Boot in stout brown is £170 ($209.95).

    See also:

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  • Mary Spencer’s Fall 2023 Garden – FineGardening

    Mary Spencer’s Fall 2023 Garden – FineGardening

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    We’re in Westminster, Maryland, today to see how fall is treating Mary Spencer’s garden. Last time we visited Mary it was in the spring (Spring in Mary’s Garden), so it is fun to see how different the garden looks at the other end of the growing season.

    A beautiful combination of fall leaf colors from the trees and shrubs contrasts with flowers from impatiens (Impatiens walleriana, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) that haven’t been hit by frost yet and so are still flowering away.

    small seating area in the garden with container plantingsA spot to sit and soak up the autumnal beauty

    close up of tree with fall foliageIt pays to slow down and look at the details. In the background is a cloud of incredible fall leaves, and in the foreground a tree trunk looks as if it has a pair of eyes.

    close up of fall container planting with yellow flowers and ornamental cabbageA fall planter features rudbeckia (Rudbeckia hirta, Zones 3–7, but short lived and usually grown as an annual), ornamental pepper (Capsicum annuum, Zones 9–11 or as an annual), and ornamental cabbage (Brassica oleracea, Zones 6–10, biennial).

    planter of pink mums next to perennials with fall foliageA pumpkin, some pink mums (Chrysanthemum hybrid, hardiness varies by cultivar), and a purple flamingo bring pops of color to the changing foliage of perennials, including Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra, Zones 5–9).

    close up of beautyberry shrub in fallBeautyberry (Callicarpa japonica, Zones 6–8) has intense purple berries that look great over a long stretch of later summer into winter, but they may never look better than when the foliage is turning color, making a purple-and-yellow display that is just beautiful.

    stone garden path surrounded by plants in fallPerennials usually don’t have quite the intense fall color of trees and shrubs, but they still make a layer of gold along the ground, with promises of returning in the spring with bright new leaves and flowers.

    pumpkins and fall container plantings in front of a garagePots of flowers, pumpkins, and a Japanese maple (Acer palmatum, Zones 5–9) make a seasonally perfect display in front of the garage.

     

    Have a garden you’d like to share?

    Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

    To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

    Have a mobile phone? Tag your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter with #FineGardening!

    Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here.

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    GPOD Contributor

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  • The Best Snow Shovels for Your Home in 2023 | Gardener’s Path

    The Best Snow Shovels for Your Home in 2023 | Gardener’s Path

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    1. Top Pick Up Front: SnowPlow Snow Pusher

    The 24-inch SnowPlow Snow Pusher, available from Walmart, features a 24-inch-wide, self-sharpening polyethylene blade, patented Tuffbrace handle/brace connector, and replaceable parts.

    SnowPlow manufactures this product in Clarion, Iowa, using sustainable practices.

    A close up square image of the SnowPlow Snow Pusher isolated on a white background.

    SnowPlow Snow Pusher

    This sturdy model is a favorite of professionals, because its quarter-inch-thick Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) poly blade withstands impact, and resists friction and abrasion.

    This is because the resin it is made of is used in dust form, as opposed to the typical pebbles or shavings generally found in plastics.

    The blade is unique in that it has curved corners, instead of traditional sharp-angled ones. This makes it super durable, as it doesn’t catch in cracks that might damage a straight-edged model.

    Additionally, while this means a narrow swath of snow may sometimes be left behind, it is considered by the manufacturer to be a small price to pay for strength and durability.

    A close up horizontal image of a person shoveling snow on a tiled patio.A close up horizontal image of a person shoveling snow on a tiled patio.

    This product is shipped with a blunt-edged blade. Do not attempt to sharpen it. Instead, let it self-sharpen with use. After use, it must be stored in a cool shed or garage, to avoid temperature changes that could warp the blade.

    Poly blades sometimes warp with use. If this happens, bring the shovel indoors and allow it to warm up. Then you may bend the blade manually to return it to the desired shape.

    The manufacturer states that you may have to overbend it at first to get it to stay where you want it. This is fine, and won’t break the shovel.

    The fiberglass handle features a reinforced core and a D-style grip for easy maneuverability.

    This is a robust product, weighing in at seven pounds. Commercial contractors may expect to get two to four years, and homeowners may enjoy 10 or more years of use from a SnowPlow Snow Pusher product.

    This model may be used for chopping as well as snow clearing. And, with interchangeable parts, a user may replace a worn-out blade with one of the same, or a different size.

    The SnowPlow Snow Pusher is covered by a limited/situational warranty, and the manufacturer asserts that “replacement parts are available but are rarely sold or needed.”

    Assembly required. Made in the USA.

    Pros

    • All parts are replaceable
    • Blades are interchangeable
    • Bolted construction
    • Easy locknut assembly
    • Nearly indestructible blade
    • Rust-proof

    Cons

    We’ve selected the this model in the 24-inch blade width. However, you may prefer the 30-inch or the 36-inch, available via Amazon.

    Check prices at Walmart now.

    2. Bargain Pick: Suncast SN1000 18-Inch

    This very popular 18-inch Suncast SN1000, available via Amazon, is a traditional style product with a navy blue angled, rib patterned, 18- by 13-inch poly-coated plastic blade.

    Suncast 18-Inch Snow Shovel

    It has a durable and wide-ribbed Steel Core® D-grip attached to a black poly-coated handle. From top to bottom, it measures 48 inches.

    Suncast categorizes this product as being suitable for “a little” snow. Made in the USA.

    While it is extremely light, weighing just two and a half pounds, it is effective at dealing with a light covering of snow. It’s ideal for decks and patios as it doesn’t scratch surfaces.

    Suitable for seniors and children, it has become a favorite for light-duty removal.

    Pros

    • Lightweight
    • Light duty
    • Won’t rust

    Cons

    • Poly blade may crack under heavy weight
    • Shallow scoop
    • Lacks a steel wear strip
    • Short, straight handle
    • Not for heavy, wet precipitation or ice

    On the negative side, taller folks may find the handle too short, the scoop is somewhat shallow, and the plastic flimsy.

    This budget-friendly tool is best suited to light clearance of small areas.

    Read customer reviews and check prices now on Amazon.

    3. AAA Aluminum Sport Utility Shovel

    Made of high quality aluminum, the sport utility emergency-use shovel from AAA, available via Amazon, is great for digging out a snowbound vehicle.

    Sturdy and portable, this aluminum model is ideal to carry in your car, truck, recreational vehicle – or even your backpack! It weighs a shade under one and half pounds.

    Simply disassemble it into three compact pieces and travel on.

    Aluminum Sport Utility Shovel

    Designed to dig you out of a frozen spot, this product makes a great addition to your emergency road kit. It’s also useful for digging in soil and sand.

    The telescoping handle expands from 21 to 32 inches long, with a T-grip on the end. It is comfortable to use for short periods, and the bright color makes it hard to lose. It is available in red, blue, and gold.

    The blade is nine inches wide, so it’s unsuitable for clearing large areas.

    The manufacturer offers a one-year warranty. Assembly required.

    Pros

    • Lightweight and portable
    • Aluminum blade
    • Expandable handle
    • Doesn’t flex or bend with intended use
    • Multi-purpose

    Cons

    • Too small for general use
    • Short handle

    We love this product for digging around tires to free vehicles from snow. The blade’s metal edge is sharp enough to loosen ice, and it makes good vertical cuts.

    On the negative side, even fully extended, use requires bending for most people. This may cause back strain with extensive use.

    Heavy-duty jobs may result in damage to the product. Look for a more sturdy model for heavy snow removal.

    Check prices and read reviews now on Amazon.

    4. Snow Joe 18-Inch Snow Shovel

    The 18-inch Snow Joe Snow Shovel, available via Home Depot, boasts a “virtually indestructible” black blade constructed of shatter-resistant polycarbonate, with a non-abrasive aluminum wear strip, for use on all surfaces.

    A close up vertical image of a Snow Joe 18-inch shovel with a blue handle and black blade isolated on a white background.A close up vertical image of a Snow Joe 18-inch shovel with a blue handle and black blade isolated on a white background.

    Snow Joe 18-Inch Shovel

    A unique feature is the four-piece construction, which may be broken down for convenient storage.

    It makes a great car emergency tool for this reason, and at 41 inches long, its handle is more than twice the length of other auto shovels.

    In addition, there is an oversized D-grip handle that easily accommodates a thick glove, and a reinforced poly blade strip for added strength and durability. This model weighs in at just under four pounds.

    A close up vertical image of a snow shovel on a driveway filled with the white stuff.A close up vertical image of a snow shovel on a driveway filled with the white stuff.

    Snow Joe has offices in Carlstadt, New Jersey. The company strives to offer products that reduce emissions in the environment. When I emailed customer service with a question, I received a reply within minutes.

    This product has a two-year warranty. Assembly required.

    Pros

    • Lightweight
    • Portable, can be broken down into four pieces

    Cons

    • Poly blades may warp with heavy use

    Read customer reviews and check prices on Home Depot.

    5. Snow Joe Shovelution Strain-Reducing Snow Shovel

    The Snow Joe Shovelution 18-inch Strain-Reducing Snow Shovel with Spring-Assisted Handle, available from Gardener’s Supply Company looks like your standard tool, but with a healthy twist.

    It’s operated with two hands on two handles to reduce the stress and strain of shoveling large quantities of the white stuff.

    A close up vertical image of the Snow Joe Shovelution Strain-Reducing shovel isolated on a white background.A close up vertical image of the Snow Joe Shovelution Strain-Reducing shovel isolated on a white background.

    Snow Joe Shovelution

    This ergonomic model optimizes leverage by creating a fulcrum at the point where the handles join.

    The second handle is spring-loaded, to turn your lower hand into a powerhouse of upper body strength, lifting and tossing medium to heavy snow in a fluid motion.

    The 18-inch blade is constructed from blue polycarbonate with an aluminum wear strip. In addition to shoveling snow, it can be used for other gardening chores like lifting mulch and compost.

    Snow Joe offers a two-year full warranty.

    This product has an overall length of 50 inches and weighs just under four pounds. It requires home assembly.

    Pros

    • Ergonomic two-handle construction designed to reduce back strain
    • Lightweight

    Cons

    • Poly blades may crack or warp

    The two-handled design can take a bit of practice before it feels comfortable to use, and in the case of taller people, it may require some bending.

    Check out the Snow Joe Shovelution at Gardener’s Supply Store.

    6. Suncast 18-Inch Snow Shovel/Pusher Combo

    This model boasts Suncast’s trademark ribbed Steel Core® handle in an ergonomic bent handle, designed to reduce back strain during use. It’s available via Walmart.

    A close up vertical image of the Suncast 18-inch Shovel with ergonomic handle isolated on a white background.A close up vertical image of the Suncast 18-inch Shovel with ergonomic handle isolated on a white background.

    Suncast 18-Inch Snow Shovel/Pusher Combo

    It features an 18-inch-wide green resin blade reinforced with a galvanized steel wear strip, measures 52 1/2 inches in length, and weighs just over four pounds.

    This model gives you the best of both worlds: Its narrow blade lets you clear manageable sized swaths, and its slightly scooped shape permits lifting without strain.

    This model is not covered by Suncast’s warranties. It has a point-of-purchase warranty only. Made in the USA.

    Pros

    • Ergonomic concept
    • Solid construction

    Cons

    • Poly blade may crack or warp under heavy weight
    • Steel wear strip may catch
    • Steel handle may transfer cold to hand

    The ergonomic design suits some folks but not others – it’s really a matter of personal preference. People under five-foot-six inches and above six-foot-two may find it awkward to use.

    Find out more and check price now at Walmart.

    7. True Temper SnoBoss 26-Inch Ergonomic Poly Combo

    This unique reversible-blade tool from True Temper, available at Tractor Supply, is ergonomic and integrated without extraneous nuts and bolts to impede optimal performance.

    A close up vertical image of the True Temper SnoBoss Ergonomic Poly Combo Shovel isolated on a white background.A close up vertical image of the True Temper SnoBoss Ergonomic Poly Combo Shovel isolated on a white background.

    True Temper SnoBoss 26-Inch Ergonomic Poly Combo Snow Shovel

    A shovel and pusher in one, it boasts a 26-inch poly blade with a steel wear strip that can switch functions with ease.

    Maintain firm control with two ergonomically-designed aluminum handles that offer multiple grip locations for proper posture, particularly when lifting. A foot step provides additional leverage.

    A close up square image of a man shoveling snow with a True Temper SnoBoss.A close up square image of a man shoveling snow with a True Temper SnoBoss.

    The Ames True Temper company offers a 90-day warranty on this product. Made in the USA. Some components may be imported.

    The riveted steel wear strip is durable, but may have a tendency to catch on irregular pavements when used as a forward plow.

    Pros

    • Ergonomic concept
    • Versatile use

    Cons

    • Steel wear strip may catch on irregular pavement, causing it to become damaged

    This unique product is 56 inches long from blade edge to the top of the handle, and weighs just five and a half pounds.

    It makes short work of heavy snow on the driveway and the unique design allows you to clear steps and stairs with ease.

    Check prices and learn more on Tractor Supply.

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    Nan Schiller

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  • Foundations of Water-Wise Garden Design with Kim Toscano – FineGardening

    Foundations of Water-Wise Garden Design with Kim Toscano – FineGardening

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    It’s easy to feel helpless in the face of unprecedented drought, water restrictions, and soaring temperatures—but we gardeners are not powerless. With careful planning we can create beautiful, drought-resilient gardens that thrive no matter what the weather may bring. And by applying water-conservation techniques in our backyards, we not only lessen our dependency on supplemental water but also help to preserve and protect natural waterways downstream. 

    In this online course, you will learn how to make the most of rainfall by implementing strategies that keep rainwater on-site. You will discover ways to minimize the need for supplemental irrigation while building drought resiliency in the landscape. The lessons learned will give you the confidence to create sustainable spaces in your yard, whether you are landscaping a newly built house or renovating an older garden. 


    Topics covered include: 

    • Understanding and managing your soil type 
    • Making the most of rainfall 
    • Planning efficient irrigation 
    • Dealing with watering restrictions 
    • Finding drought-resistant plants 
    • Choosing alternatives to water-hungry lawns 

    About Your Instructor

    Kimberly Toscano is an accomplished horticulturist with an eye on design. Formally trained in horticulture, environmental science, and entomology, she is interested in all things edible as well as garden design and landscaping for wildlife. Kim takes a holistic approach to gardening and landscaping, working in harmony with the natural environment. This includes organic and sustainable gardening practices, careful management of water, and enhancing biodiversity in the landscape. 

    Before establishing a career in garden writing and consultation, Kim served as writer and host for Oklahoma Gardening, a weekly PBS television program produced by the Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service. In this role, she shared her expertise through more than 1,000 video segments covering all aspects of gardening, environmental stewardship, and sustainable living. To support her programming, Kim designed over a dozen gardens that were installed at The Botanic Garden at Oklahoma State University, including a formal terrace, an organic vegetable garden, and themed ornamental plantings. 

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  • When and How to Repot Swiss Cheese Plants (Monstera)

    When and How to Repot Swiss Cheese Plants (Monstera)

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    Monsteras are easygoing houseplants that grow rapidly when provided with the right care.

    Before you know it, your plant has sprouted new leaves and sent out aerial roots all over the place.

    Suddenly, it feels like your Swiss cheese plant has turned into a real monster, crawling out of its container and reaching across the floor with its tentacles!

    Your monstera has outgrown its home.

    A close up vertical image of a large Swiss cheese plant growing indoors by a window. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.A close up vertical image of a large Swiss cheese plant growing indoors by a window. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

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    I have three or four dozen species of houseplants at any given time and it’s inevitably my monsteras that I find myself repotting the most.

    These plants like being rootbound, but they grow so quickly and I have so many that it feels like I’m always dividing one or repotting another. One day my husband will come home and find me buried under Swiss cheese plants.

    Is your monstera needing a new home, too? This guide will help. Coming up ahead, here’s what we’re going to go over:

    How to Repot Swiss Cheese Plants

    Gather your tools, which should include clean scissors or pruners, fresh potting medium, and a clean pot.

    When to Repot

    If your existing container is cracked, crumbling, clogged, or otherwise compromised, you can repot whenever you want.

    A close up vertical image of a large monstera plant growing in a small white pot that needs to be upgraded, set on the ground indoors.A close up vertical image of a large monstera plant growing in a small white pot that needs to be upgraded, set on the ground indoors.

    If the roots have outgrown the pot and are coming out of the drainage holes, it’s best to wait for late winter or early spring. It won’t hurt your monstera to hang out a little longer unless there is so little soil that absolutely no water can be retained.

    During this time the plant is still dormant, so it won’t be as shocked by a move. And with the growing season just round the corner, once growth resumes, it will quickly re-establish itself.

    It won’t hurt your aroid to repot it at other times of the year, but if you want to do it at the ideal time, late winter or early spring is the way to go.

    Knowing when the time is right to repot is a matter of keeping an eye on your houseplant. If you see roots coming out of the drainage holes, you can be sure your Swiss cheese plant needs a bigger home.

    A close up vertical image of a beautiful variegated monstera plant growing in a terra cotta pot set on a stand indoors.A close up vertical image of a beautiful variegated monstera plant growing in a terra cotta pot set on a stand indoors.

    The same goes for if you see roots circling up out of the medium and around the perimeter of the pot.

    Aerial roots – those that grow from the stems above the soil – aren’t a reliable sign that you need to repot. These are a normal part of the plant’s growth.

    You can expect to go up a container size every three or four years if your plants are doing well.

    Prepare Your Pot

    Before you start working, you’ll need to prepare the new pot. If you’ve just purchased a new one, don’t worry too much about sanitizing, though it never hurts to wipe it out with soapy water.

    If you’re reusing a pot, clean it with soapy water and then wipe it down with isopropyl alcohol to kill any pathogens.

    A close up horizontal image of a large monstera (Swiss cheese) plant growing in a white pot set on the ground by a glass door.A close up horizontal image of a large monstera (Swiss cheese) plant growing in a white pot set on the ground by a glass door.

    Don’t go up more than one pot size. I know it may seem more convenient to go up several sizes, then you can skip the next few years of repotting, right?

    The problem is that too much soil around the roots often results in water sitting in the potting medium too long, leading to root rot. Monsteras do best if the roots are snug.

    Fill the base of the pot with fresh, new potting mix. Don’t reuse the old mix.

    Speaking of soil, you can use pretty much any water-retentive potting soil, but I like to mix potting soil with orchid bark in equal parts.

    Orchid bark increases the amount of air that reaches the roots and as epiphytes or hemiepiphytes, their roots prefer access to a lot of oxygen.

    You can also find mixes made specifically for aroids.

    I have all my monsteras in FoxFarm’s Ocean Forest Potting Soil mix with some added bark – and they love it!

    FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil

    Pick up 12 quart bags of FoxFarm Ocean Forest via Amazon.

    It contains earthworm castings, bat guano, fishmeal, forest humus, and sphagnum moss. All the stuff aroids need to thrive.

    Then, I mix it with an equal amount of Bonsai Supply’s fine texture pine bark nuggets.

    Bonsai Supply Pine Bark Nuggets

    This product is also available via Amazon.

    Remove the Plant

    The first step is to take the plant out of its existing container. Do this by gripping the stems at the base around as many of them as you can manage and tilting the pot on its side.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener removing a monstera specimen from a small pot.A close up horizontal image of a gardener removing a monstera specimen from a small pot.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    It helps to do this part outside or over a tray, cardboard, or newspaper so you can catch the soil that falls out. This can be a messy job.

    Hold the pot steady with your other hand and gently pull the roots out of the pot.

    Prepare the Monstera

    Once it’s out of the container, knock away as much of the soil from around the roots as you can.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener separating the roots of a houseplant.A close up horizontal image of a gardener separating the roots of a houseplant.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Then, examine the roots carefully. Look for any that are dead, broken, black, or mushy and snip them off at the end of the healthy area using scissors or pruners.

    Once any damaged or dead portions are removed, gently untangle the remaining roots.

    Replant

    Place the monstera in the pot and hold the plant at the level you want it to sit. Use your other hand to pour or scoop your chosen potting medium into the container.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener repotting a monstera into a new plastic container.A close up horizontal image of a gardener repotting a monstera into a new plastic container.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Add water and wait for the medium to settle. Once it does, you might need to add a bit more soil.

    If you decide that you’ve gone large enough and you don’t want to move up another container size, you can remove the plant from its pot, remove all the soil, and trim the roots back by about a third.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener trimming the roots of an overgrown monstera.A close up horizontal image of a gardener trimming the roots of an overgrown monstera.
    Photo by Kristine Lofgren.

    Repot it in the original container, as described above. Then, trim some of the leaves, cutting them back to the nearest stem. Doing this can keep a plant happy and in the same size container for years.

    You can learn more about keeping your Swiss cheese plant happy and healthy in our growing guide.

    Your Monsteras Are Going To Love Their New Homes

    It’s fortunate that monsteras are so easy going about repotting. They don’t suffer terribly from shock when they’re transplanted, and most of the time they’ll start growing again as if nothing happened.

    A close up horizontal image of a large Swiss cheese (monstera) plant growing in a pot indoors.A close up horizontal image of a large Swiss cheese (monstera) plant growing in a pot indoors.

    How long have you been growing your monstera? Is this your first time repotting it? Share your experiences with us in the comments section below.

    If you’re looking for some additional information about caring for monsteras, you might be interested in these guides next:

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    Kristine Lofgren

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  • Inspiration for New Year’s events in London – Growing Family

    Inspiration for New Year’s events in London – Growing Family

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    In collaboration with Skiddle

    November has started in full force this year, with a successful Halloween marking the end of October and Bonfire night going off around the country without a hitch – despite Storm Ciaran doing its best to disrupt our celebrations.

    With those plans now safely out of the way, shops and people alike are turning their attention to Christmas. Whether you’re an early bird or a last-minute Christmas planner, you can’t avoid the light displays popping up in the streets, decorations filling up the seasonal aisles in shops, and the slowly increasing radio appearances of Christmas tunes.

    two hands holding champagne glasses

    With the coming of Christmas and the closing of 2023, life can get a bit hectic. Braving the hustle and bustle of the shops to buy presents, meeting up with family for gift exchanges and finding the time to tidy up the house ready for Christmas gatherings leaves very little time to plan for things that aren’t Christmas. And that includes the all-important New Year’s Eve celebrations.

    To take some pressure off, you might like to consider attending one of the many New Year’s Eve (NYE) events that are being hosted around the country. These events are pre-booked and all the hard work is done for you, so you can simply arrange your travel and look forward to a good night.

    new year's fireworks at London Tower Bridgenew year's fireworks at London Tower Bridge

    New Year’s events in London

    One of the best cities to celebrate the coming of the new year is in the capital itself. There’s a huge range of choice when it comes to NYE events in London and something to suit all ages and interests. For example, you could book the brilliant boat party, which starts at Westminster Pier, takes in the firework show, and docks at an exclusive secret after-party. Or you could catch a concert, enjoy some comedy, or take to the dancefloor at a club classics night to welcome 2024 in style.

    If you’re looking to make a trip of it, the best way to experience London for New Year is to get the train, book a hotel room for the night and enjoy the experience. If you travel down early enough, you could catch one of the last shows in the London theatres, such as The Phantom of The Opera, which is being performed at His Majesty’s Theatre.

    The new year is a time for new beginnings, new opportunities might be on the horizon and new experiences too. So consider starting the year by doing something unexpected that’s also easy to organise.

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    Catherine

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  • Types of Christmas Trees & How to Choose the Best One

    Types of Christmas Trees & How to Choose the Best One

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    If picking out a fresh Christmas tree is a yearly tradition for your family, make sure you get the right one! They all might look similar at first glance, but some are better suited for different reasons. Here are some of the best types of Christmas trees and how to pick the BEST one for your family.

    What makes the best Christmas tree? Having sold fresh-cut Christmas trees for many years, I can attest to the old adage that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

    In truth, your best type of Christmas tree may look vastly different from someone else’s. Size, shape, branch density, needle length, colour, and fragrance are some personal preferences that will play into the final decision.

    For many of us, there is a specific tree species that just “smells like Christmas” because we grew up with that type.

    But if you’re looking for the name of your favourite tree or want to experiment this year, here are some of the best types of Christmas trees to consider.

    In this article, we will cover:

    kiddo picking out the best types of Christmas treeskiddo picking out the best types of Christmas trees
    Visiting a Christmas tree farm and cutting down a tree yourself is a must-try experience.

    How to Pick the Best Type of Christmas Tree

    Each tree species has certain characteristics that have made it popular. Whether it’s the rigidity of the branch tips, how well it retains its needles, or a striking fragrance, each variety has something special to offer.

    Within a single species, pruning affects the overall shape and branch density: natural growth tends to be more open, frequent shearing leads to dense branches.

    When looking at the different types of Christmas trees, you can keep a lookout for a few things:

    1. Fresh trees should not be losing many needles. You can test this by tapping the tree on the ground and seeing how many needles fall off. Alternatively, you can pull along a branch. Only a few needles should come loose.
    2. Sickness or decay. The tree should not smell musty or have any kind of spots. This could indicate that the tree was cut while sick or cut too long ago.
    3. Height and width. Measure your Christmas tree to ensure that it will fit inside your home. Bring along a measuring tape, and be sure to measure before you head to the Christmas tree lot, too.
    close up of pine needles for types of Christmas treesclose up of pine needles for types of Christmas trees
    Test needle retention before buying a Christmas tree.

    The Different Types of Christmas Trees

    There are many different types of trees that are commonly sold as Christmas trees.

    While I don’t have pictures of all of them, I highly recommend you bring along with you a plant identification app in case the trees aren’t labelled. I have listed my favourite and most reliable apps here, to help you identify what types of Christmas trees you’re working with.

    When you’re out shopping, keep an eye out for these names. Here are some of the best types of Christmas trees and what you need to know about each.

    1. Fraser Fir

    This is the most popular fresh Christmas tree in North America. They’re extremely hardy, and Canadian tree farmers ship them all over the world. Its needles are ½ to 1 inch long, dark green above and blue-green beneath. Needle retention is excellent, and the scent is pleasantly sweet and slightly pungent. 

    Fraser fir identifiers:

    • More slender shape
    • Slightly upturned branches
    • Shorter needles ½ to 1 inch long
    • Dark green needles with blue-green bottoms
    foam ring with small Fraser fir clippings inserted into itfoam ring with small Fraser fir clippings inserted into it
    You can see Fraser Fir branches used in this project, where I made a candle wreath as a holiday centrepiece.

    2. Noble Fir

    The noble fir, with its rigid branches, is a fantastic choice for heavy ornaments. Its branches grow in whorls around the trunk, giving it a “tiered” effect. The upturned needles show both the medium-green surface colour and blue-green underside.

    Noble fir identifiers:

    • Blue-green needles with white bands on the side
    • Pale grey to purplish bark
    • Large upright pine cones
    • Rigid branches

    3. Douglas Fir

    Don’t let the name fool you! A Douglas fir is actually a type of pine tree. Douglas fir is grown and shipped all over North America. The 1-1.5 inch dark green, soft needles radiate in all directions from the stem, giving it a full appearance. The needle retention is less than other trees, but it is also usually a less costly tree.

    Douglas fir identifiers:

    • Classic Christmas tree scent
    • Heavier branches
    • Dark green needles that point in all directions
    • Softer needles compared to spruce
    • Pointy, papery, reddish-brown buds
    kiddo standing next to a Douglas fir at a Christmas tree farm for types of Christmas treeskiddo standing next to a Douglas fir at a Christmas tree farm for types of Christmas trees
    Kiddo posing with a Douglas Fir that needs a few more years before it can become a Christmas tree.

    4. Balsam Fir

    Needles are dark green, ¾ to 1.5 inches long, and last a long time. They’re easy to decorate but may not hold heavy ornaments well. The scent of the crushed needles is very pleasant, lasting throughout the holiday season. It’s one of the most popular options in Canada, being the top Christmas tree in Quebec and New Brunswick’s official tree.

    Balsam fir identifiers:

    • Flat needs with white bands on the underside
    • Dark green needles
    • Narrow and pointed crown
    • Thin grey, smooth bark with resin blisters

    5. Grand Fir

    This type of tree is darker green with flat needles. It’s softer to the touch than other trees, so it’s pleasant to decorate!

    Grand fir identifiers:

    • Citrus-like scent
    • Lighter branches
    • Glossy green colour and curved boughs
    • Flat needs with rounded ends
    • Smooth bark with resin blisters and white spots

    6. Nordman Fir

    Nordman fir has longer needles than the noble or Fraser firs, giving it a softer look. The needles are deep, glossy green and have needle retention similar to that of both the noble and Fraser firs.

    Nordman fir identifiers:

    • Softer, glossy green needles with blunt tips
    • Needles all around the branch
    • Slightly longer needles
    • Lack of a significant scent
    Nordman Fir sign at Christmas tree farm for types of Christmas treesNordman Fir sign at Christmas tree farm for types of Christmas trees
    Nordman fir has great needle retention.

    7. Colorado Blue Spruce

    This popular option is a great choice for a living Christmas tree. In addition to the unique blue-green or gray-green foliage, it features a good shape and dense branches when young.

    Colorado blue spruce identifiers:

    • Blue-grey tinted needles with sharp points
    • Dense foliage and pyramid-shape
    • Branches are horizontal to the ground
    • Smelly when you crush the needles

    8. Scotch Pine

    Scotch pine is the most heavily planted fresh Christmas tree variety. Its needles are 1-3 inches long and medium green, perfect for holding onto ornaments. Needle retention is excellent, even when it dries out.

    Scotch pine identifiers:

    • Medium-green needles
    • Long needles (1-3 inches)
    • Orange bark when mature
    • Oval crown
    close up of Scotch pine cones and needlesclose up of Scotch pine cones and needles
    I like finding pine cones on my trees, but I also keep an eye out for unwanted Christmas tree additions.

    9. Eastern White Pine

    This tree has some of the longest needles in this listing, giving it a soft appearance. Needle retention is good. Because of its faint scent, this is a good choice for anyone sensitive to heavy fragrances.

    Eastern white pine identifiers:

    • Long blue-green needles
    • Soft in appearance
    • Needles curve at their ends
    • Dark green smooth bark when young, and dark brown to black when older

    Living Christmas Trees

    Potted trees have become very popular because they can be planted in the landscape after serving their ornamental purpose indoors. Go for the type that fits your garden style.

    I especially like lemon cypress trees, which is what I use to make my mini Grinch trees.

    mini potted Christmas trees at a garden centremini potted Christmas trees at a garden centre
    The best part about a living Christmas tree? You get to keep it!

    Frequently Asked Questions About Christmas Trees

    Which type of Christmas tree is most popular?

    The most popular types of Christmas trees are fir trees since they tend to shed fewer needles when they dry, all while maintaining scent and colour. While it varies significantly depending on where you live, Fraser fir and balsam fir are the most popular types of Christmas trees. Fraser fir is known for its longevity, while balsam fir is known for its classic Christmas tree scent and low price point.

    What kind of tree is a Christmas tree?

    Just about any evergreen tree can work as a Christmas tree. The Christmas tree tradition came from Pagans as they brought boughs of evergreens inside the home during the winter solstice to remind them of the green plants that would return in the spring. The first Christmas trees appeared in Germany in the 16th century, when Martin Luther brought a fir tree into his home to decorate.

    identifying pine needlesidentifying pine needles

    What is the Best Smelling Christmas Tree?

    One of the best features of purchasing a real Christmas tree instead of a fake one is the scent. A balsam fir will give you the most scent, but they do tend to dry out more quickly than other trees. If this will be a concern for you, a Douglas fir or Fraser fir also has a scent and will last longer.

    Which Christmas Tree Lasts the Longest?

    Fraser fir will last you the longest, at about 5 weeks. If you like to buy your tree early, this one should still be looking good by Christmas time. A Douglas fir will also last quite a while at 4 weeks. Scotch pine also lasts for 3 weeks.

    Yes, some varieties do better than others, but there’s more to it. When it comes down to a long-lasting Christmas tree, the results will mostly come from proper care. Learn more about Christmas tree care tips here!

    wood slice Christmas ornamentswood slice Christmas ornaments

    What are the Main Differences Between a Douglas Fir vs Fraser Fir?

    Both the Douglas fir and Fraser fir can last a long time in the home and are some of the best Christmas trees. Fraser firs tend to be slender and work well in small rooms as their branches turn slightly upward. A Douglas fir will appear slightly bushier and wider.

    Due to their soft needles, both trees can withstand the heat of being inside a home. Fraser fir has slightly shorter needles measuring ½ to 1 inch long while Douglas fir’s needles measure 1-1.5 inches. They have a similar dark green colour, though Douglas firs tend to have worse needle retention. Their lower price point reflects that.

    What are the Main Differences Between a Grand Fir vs Douglas Fir?

    Grand firs tend to be one of the most fragrant Christmas trees out there, evoking a citrus like scent. Douglas firs are also scented but bring the more classic Christmas tree scent you’re probably familiar with. Both trees have the classic cone shape, though grand firs are a little fuller.

    The branches of a grand fir tend to be lighter and Douglas fir branches will hold heavier ornaments better. The needles of a Douglas fir are dark green, radiating in all directions. Grand fir needles come in a glossy green colour with a slight curve of the boughs.

    Douglas firs tend to be more common due to their popularity, so you may have greater difficulty finding a grand fir. Douglas firs will last around 4 weeks while grand firs are only good for about 2 weeks before they begin dropping their needles.

    Stephanie and kiddoStephanie and kiddo

    The most important thing to keep in mind while shopping for the best type of Christmas tree is that all-natural trees have slight physical imperfections. Some even contain bird nests or praying mantis egg sacks. Let these things serve as a reminder not to take decorating too seriously or obsess over minutia. Allow the natural beauty of the tree to take center stage for your holiday decor.

    More Christmas Tree Inspiration

    Pin image for how to choose the best Christmas tree for your family.Pin image for how to choose the best Christmas tree for your family.

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Want More Food From Your Garden? “Grow Like a Weed!” | The Survival Gardener

    Want More Food From Your Garden? “Grow Like a Weed!” | The Survival Gardener

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    Mark Bailey has some good advice:

    Have you ever wondered why weeds grow so well, while your garden crops struggle? If you want your crops to grow like weeds, then look to weeds for inspiration. First, let’s go over what a weed is and touch on common weed characteristics. A weed can be thought of as any plant that you don’t want growing in a particular space for a period of time. Does a weed need to be watered regularly, fertilized and carefully tended to? Of course they don’t because they tend to be extremely well adapted to the specific conditions in which they emerge. The better adapted a plant is, the more likely it is to survive and outcompete other plants, such as in a garden, for resources like sunlight, water and nutrients. If you want the most amount of food from the garden for the least amount of work, consider crops that can grow like a weed. 

    Let’s dig a little deeper about what makes a plant weedy so we can choose the right crop for our situation. Weeds tend to emerge as soon as conditions are suitable for rapid growth. Weeds are usually supported by deep and extensive root systems that allow them to readily access limited water and nutrients. Take time to learn about each potential crop’s needs and match a crop to the local conditions and time of year. Additionally, planting into a weed-free garden bed, and using drip tape and timed irrigation can give your crops additional advantages over weeds before they appear.

    What warm-season crops have weed-like characteristics? …

    (Click here to keep reading)

    I have been blessed to meet Mark in person and count him as a friend. He is a very intelligent guy (especially considering he works for the government). He has spoken at the last two SCRUBFEST events and has shared some very good information in his columns.

    The “grow like a weed” advice is exactly how I patterned my book Totally Crazy Easy Florida Gardening.

    Throw a range of seeds and plants at the ground and see what happens. Replant the survivors and base the next year’s garden on them. Add different things each year and keep letting the weak die.

    Eventually, you’ll have amazing success.

    We did this with our North Florida garden and can now tell you /exactly/ what will thrive in the state.

    More food, less work.

    Today’s music:

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