Category: Home & Garden

When it comes to gardening, efficient space utilization is not just about arranging your plants smartly. It also involves organizing your gardening tools, seasonal decorations, and fertilizers in a way that makes your gardening activities smooth and enjoyable. While a garden shed is a traditional storage solution, it often falls short when your gardening aspirations outgrow your available space.

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 Overflowing sheds and cluttered garages not only make finding tools a chore but also take away from the aesthetic appeal of your gardening area. That’s why thinking beyond conventional storage methods can free up not just space but also your creative potential. This article will explore how self-storage units can be a game-changer for both amateur and professional gardeners, helping you solve the ongoing puzzle of space. We’ll delve into what types of gear can be stored, how to select the perfect unit for your needs, and even how smart storage can offer a solid return on your gardening investments.

Why Offsite Storage Makes Sense for Gardeners

In gardening, the seasonal nature of activities necessitates a variety of tools, supplies, and decorations. You might need a snow blower in the winter but come summer, it’s all about the lawnmower and the hedge trimmers. These pieces of equipment are not only bulky but can also be sensitive to weather conditions. Storing them in suboptimal environments can lead to wear and tear or even irreversible damage. It’s here that the concept of offsite storage steps in as a viable solution. With facilities like Southern Self Secure Storage, you get the advantage of climate-controlled units, ensuring your garden supplies remain in top-notch condition regardless of the season. 

This frees up space in your home and lets you carry on with your gardening ventures without being bogged down by clutter. Investing in an offsite storage unit is not just about space; it’s about optimizing your gardening process by knowing that your tools and supplies are safe, secure, and readily available whenever you need them.

Organizing Your Garden Supplies for Easy Access

Properly organizing your garden supplies can make a world of difference when it comes to efficiency and convenience. Think about how much time is wasted when you have to sort through a cluttered garage or shed to find that one particular tool or bag of soil. Being methodical about storage can alleviate these issues and make your gardening tasks far more enjoyable. 

When considering how to best arrange your items in a storage unit or at home, there are several key points to keep in mind:

• Group Like Items Together: Keep all your soil and fertilizers in one section, and your tools in another.
• Label Boxes Clearly: If you are storing items in boxes, ensure they are labeled properly.
• Use Clear Storage Bins: This allows you to see what’s inside without having to open them up.
• Hang Tools on Wall Hooks: This keeps them easily accessible and saves floor space.
• Dedicate a Shelf for Seeds and Bulbs: These are small items that can get lost easily if not given their own designated space.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture provides additional guidelines on proper storage and handling of garden products, which can help in maintaining the quality and effectiveness of your supplies. 

Armed with these organization tips and authoritative guidelines, you can create a storage system that not only houses your items securely but also contributes positively to your gardening efforts.

Maintaining Your Stored Garden Supplies

One of the most overlooked aspects of storing garden supplies is their maintenance. Proper upkeep is crucial for ensuring that your tools and materials remain in optimal condition, saving you both time and money in the long run. Start by cleaning your tools before storing them. Remove any soil, rust, or plant residue to prevent degradation over time. For electrical devices like lawnmowers or hedge trimmers, always check the manufacturer’s storage instructions to avoid damage.

Invest in quality storage solutions that offer ventilation and moisture control. Many gardeners underestimate the impact of mold and dampness on their supplies. For example, bags of soil or fertilizer can degrade if they’re exposed to moisture, leading to wasted product and money. In a similar vein, wooden handles of tools can warp or rot if stored in a damp environment.

Also, take inventory regularly. Knowing what you have and where it’s stored can save you the hassle of buying duplicates or running out of essential supplies in the middle of a project. By maintaining your stored garden supplies properly, you ensure that they will be in excellent condition and ready for use when the next gardening season arrives.

Effective Organization Techniques for Your Storage Unit

When it comes to effective storage, organization is key. It doesn’t matter if you have the largest storage unit available; if your items aren’t organized, you’ll waste time searching for what you need. 

Therefore, it’s essential to adopt some proven organization techniques to get the most out of your storage space.

1. Labeling: Clearly mark all boxes and containers so that you can easily identify their contents. This is especially useful for seasonal items like Christmas decorations or gardening supplies that you don’t need to access regularly.
2. Shelving: Make the most of vertical space by installing sturdy shelves. They’re ideal for keeping items off the ground and are particularly useful for storing lighter objects.
3. Zoning: Divide the storage unit into zones dedicated to specific categories, like tools, holiday decorations, or gardening supplies. This makes it easier to find items when you need them.
4. Inventory: Keep an up-to-date inventory list, ideally on a mobile app. This helps 

you keep track of what you have and what you might need to replace or purchase.

According to the National Institute of Standards and Technology, proper storage and organization can save both time and money in the long run. By following these techniques, you’ll make the most out of your storage unit while ensuring that your gardening supplies are easily accessible and in good condition.

Utilizing Storage for Seasonal Gardening Supplies

One of the challenges of being an avid gardener is managing seasonal supplies, from fertilizers to pots and tools. It can be quite cumbersome to keep these items in your home, especially when they’re not in use. That’s where your storage unit can come into play as an invaluable asset. Consider dedicating a portion of your storage unit to your seasonal gardening supplies. Here, you can store extra soil, planters, and specialized gardening tools that you only need for specific seasons.

If you do specialized gardening, such as growing sunflowers indoors, a storage unit can be a lifesaver. It offers a safe space to store containers, grow lights, and even climate-control equipment when they’re not in use. This ensures that your supplies are in top-notch condition for when you decide to undertake such specialized projects. Storage units provide a climate-controlled environment that can help preserve the quality of these delicate items. Utilizing storage solutions smartly can make your gardening projects more organized and less stressful.

Putting It All Together

Having a storage unit can significantly improve your gardening endeavors by offering a dedicated space for supplies and equipment. From preserving the integrity of your delicate tools to making room for specialized gardening activities, the benefits are manifold. Planning how to use your storage unit for gardening not only saves home space but also streamlines your projects. It’s a practical, real-world solution that brings efficiency and peace of mind to your horticultural activities.

 

Although summers are hot in the low desert, our winters are mild. Several beautiful flowers grow well during the mild winter and bloom through early spring. In this post, I share my ten favorite cool-season flowers that love mild winters. Keep reading to the end for my honorable mention choices for flowers that grow well during mild winters. 

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

Remember, timing is critical when gardening in hot climates like the low desert of Arizona. Learning the best times to plant will help you be successful. This guide for cool-season flowers that love mild winters will help you know when to plant and whether to plant seeds or transplants.

Here are a few things to keep in mind: 

• When you plant at the correct time, seeds will sprout, and transplants will become established in the optimal conditions for each plant. 
• The planting dates listed are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b). You may need to adjust your dates if you live in a different area.
• And finally, don’t be afraid to start flowers from seed. Transplants aren’t always available at the best time to plant. However, use good judgment when starting from seed. If it is at the end of the planting window for that particular plant, it might be best to plant a transplant rather than start from seed.

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10 Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters #1: Ranunculus

In zones 7 and warmer, there are two planting windows — late fall and again in late winter or early spring. For zones cooler than zone 7, plant in the spring after the danger of frost is passed. 

When to plant ranunculus in Arizona: October – November & February – March

• Look for large corms; they will have larger blooms.
• Soak corms before planting.
• Corms may be dug up at the end of the season.
• Looking for more information? Read this blog post or watch this video. 

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10 Flowers that Love Mild Winters #2: Lobelia

Start seeds indoors: July – October

Plant transplants outside: September 15 – December. Do not plant if temperatures remain hot. 

Blooms from March through early June

• Plant at the edge of containers.
• Beautiful when paired with blue salvia.
• Abundant blooms.
• Tolerates neglect.
• Are you looking for more information about how to grow lobelia? Read this blog post.

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Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters #3: Sweet Peas

In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through February.

Blooms from February through early May.

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Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters #4: Delphinium (Larkspur)

Larkspur grows best from seeds started directly in the garden. Click here for larkspur seeds.

• In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from late September through November.
• Blooms from March through May.
• Seeds may be difficult to germinate. Freeze seeds for a week or so before planting to encourage germination.

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Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters #5: Foxglove

Start seeds indoors: July – August

Plant transplants outside: September – October

Blooms from: March through May.

• Can be difficult to start from seed; plant transplants for best results. Prefers part sun; needs regular water.
• Good cut flower; harvest when just a few bottom blossoms are open.
• Attracts hummingbirds.
• Read this article for more information about how to grow foxglove.

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10 Flowers that Love Mild Winters #6: Poppies

Plant seeds from October through December.

Blooms from March through early May.

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Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters #7: Nasturtium

Plant nasturtium seeds from October through January.

Nasturtium blooms from February through May.

• Nasturtium grows best from seed. Click here for nasturtium seeds. 
• Plant seeds ½ to 1 inch deep and 5-6 inches apart.
• If you want an abundance of flowers, do not fertilize nasturtiums. Nutrient-rich soil grows plenty of green leaves but not as many blooms.
• Looking for more information about how to grow nasturtiums? Read this blog post.

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Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters #8: Calendula

Start calendula seeds indoors: August – September
Plant seeds or transplants outside: September 15 – November

Calendula blooms in Arizona from December through May.  

• Succession plant calendula seeds every 2 or 3 weeks for a continual harvest.
• Calendula needs regular water; do not let the plant dry out. 
• Keep flowers cut back to encourage more blooms. 
• Looking for more information about how to grow calendula? Read this blog post.

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10 Flowers that Love Mild Winters #9: Snapdragons

Start seeds indoors: June – December
Plant transplants outside: September 15 – February 15

Blooms from November through early May.

• I usually purchase snapdragons as transplants. 
• You can also start seeds indoors.  Do not cover the seed with soil. It needs light to sprout. Click here for snapdragon seeds.
• Support large varieties with netting for straight stems. 
• Cut the central stem back to ground level to encourage branching. 
• Keep deadheaded to encourage blooms.

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Cool-Season Flowers That Love Mild Winters #10: Bachelor Buttons (Cornflower)

Plant seeds in your garden from late September through November.

Blooms from February through June.

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Looking for more ideas? Other cool-season flowers that love mild winters include:

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Did I forget any of your favorite cool-season flowers that love mild winters? Let me know in the comments what your favorites are. 

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Cold hardy down to -35°F in Zones 3 to 9, this tree is wildly popular across North America as a privacy screen or stately garden specimen.

This adaptable plant can tolerate cold, extreme heat, pollution, high elevations, salty sea air, and depleted soil. It doesn’t do well in super hot, humid areas, though (sorry Hawai’i), but that’s about its only limitation.

Itching to launch a ‘Skyrocket’ into your garden? Here’s what we’re going to discuss to help make that happen:

Evergreens are often the hardworking background plants that fill in when everything else in the garden is hibernating.

But ‘Skyrocket’ can either play the role of a stalwart background plant or an eye-catching focal point. Ready to add one to your space? Let’s talk about where this plant comes from, first.

Cultivation and History

‘Skyrocket’ is a cultivar of the Rocky Mountain juniper (Juniperus scopulorum), which is a species also known as western red cedar, though it isn’t a true cedar (Cedrus spp.).

This cultivar was first introduced in 1949 at Schuel Nursery in South Bend, Indiana, and was originally called ‘Pilaris 1’ before it was renamed. Smart choice, in my opinion.

It’s often mislabeled as J. virginiana, aka eastern red cedar, and while you can certainly see the resemblance, this cultivar is from the scopulorum species.

These two species commonly hybridize when they grow in the same area, so it’s no surprise that people confuse the two.

The Rocky Mountain species naturally has a columnar shape, and ‘Skyrocket’ has been bred to exaggerate this growth habit. It has a fastigiate shape, meaning that it’s extremely upright and tapers at the top.

The leaves are bluish-green and scale-like, overlapping along reddish-brown or grayish-brown bark. When young, the leaves are more pointed and gray before rounding out a little and adopting their mature hue.

The blue-gray, round cones form on the dioecious plants in the summer and mature the following year.

‘Skyrocket’ has a shallow root system. Imagine the places where Rocky Mountain junipers grow in the wild – they fill in rocky spots where deep roots can’t penetrate.

You don’t have to worry about your ‘Skyrocket’ tapping into your sewer lines, but it might create bumps in your lawn.

Skyrocket Juniper Propagation

Rocky Mountain junipers, in general, don’t grow well from seed or layering. Stick to using cuttings for propagation or purchasing transplants.

Taking a cutting is an effective way to recreate the characteristics of a plant because it creates a genetic clone. If you were to attempt to grow from seed, the resulting plant wouldn’t grow true to the parent.

To take a cutting, remove a young, pliable stem about the length and diameter of a pencil from the parent plant, defoliate the bottom half, and place it into a growing medium. Keeping the soil moist as you wait for roots to develop. It’s not a quick process, but it’s not challenging.

For a step-by-step walkthrough of the process, please visit our guide to growing junipers.

To settle a transplant into the ground, you’ll need to dig a hole about the same size as the container the plant is currently growing in. Do this in the spring or early fall.

Gently remove the plant and loosen up the roots a little. You want to encourage the roots to grow down and out, not twist back into the rootball, which can happen if you don’t loosen up roots that have been growing in a pot for a few years.

Once the plant is in the ground, backfill the hole with the removed soil and lightly water.

Because ‘Skyrocket’ plants are so narrow, you can plant them close together without leaving too much space.

Unless you live in an extremely humid area, you don’t need to worry too much about air circulation. Plant ‘Skyrocket’ plants two feet apart if you want to create a windbreak or fence.

Give them more breathing room if you don’t want a solid wall of green, or prefer to create focal points.

How to Grow Skyrocket Juniper

Since ‘Skyrocket’ has a shallow root system designed to cling onto sandy, arid soil, don’t even think about putting this plant in poorly-draining, heavy clay soil.

The shrub also needs a sunny spot with full sun exposure. We’re talking at least eight hours of direct sun per day.

I know it’s tempting to plant something you really love even if it isn’t exactly right for your area and hope for the best. Plus, you often hear about how easy junipers are to grow, right?

That only applies if you grow them in the right environment. Put them in a shady spot with poor drainage, and you’ll find they’re not so easygoing after all.

I always thought ‘Skyrocket’ junipers were the least demanding specimens growing in my garden.

In my previous home, I planted a row of ‘Skyrocket’ junipers to create a living fence along a busy road, and I pretty much ignored them after the first year. Though you better believe I enjoyed the privacy and sound-dampening effect they provided.

I also planted one as a centerpiece for a garden and to provide a winter focal point, and it stood tall there without any work on my part year after year. I would give it a mental hug as I toiled around my demanding roses and forever struggling hydrangeas.

Then I moved somewhere with heavy clay, and I figured if I just amended the heck out of the soil and was careful about watering, they’d be fine. I was wrong.

It took me three separate attempts to try and grow ‘Skyrocket’ junipers before I accepted that they just can’t survive in my heavy soil and rainy climate.

If you have heavy clay, unless you can commit to digging down at least six feet deep and ten feet wide to amend the soil, I’d suggest you consider planting a different shrub. Or you can grow it in a raised bed.

I have neighbors who successfully grow junipers, but they have sloped yards held in place by rock retaining walls so the moisture drains out more readily.

Other than not tolerating heavy clay, ‘Skyrocket’ is pretty adaptable to a range of environments and soil types. They’ll adapt to a wide pH range, from 5.0 to 8.0. Sandy loam is ideal, but anything from sandy to loamy clay will do.

But it doesn’t do well in areas with high heat and humidity, such as you find in the extreme southern states, Hawai’i, and the very bottom of southern California.

For the first year, you need to keep the roots a bit more moist than you will need to in the coming years. Allow the top inch to dry out between waterings. After the juniper is more established, let the top three inches dry out.

If you’re struggling to keep the soil moist, an inch layer of organic mulch like well-rotted compost or shredded conifer wood will work nicely.

‘Skyrocket’ isn’t the best option if you want a container juniper. It is too tall, requiring a massive, heavy pot to contain it. But, if you want to make a grand statement, go for it.

Find a heavy concrete or clay pot that’s at least 28 inches in diameter and just as deep. Bonus points if you find one that’s a bit wider than that.

Make sure the container has excellent drainage. Otherwise, just plan on setting fire to the money you’re spending on the tree and container, and save yourself a step.

Growing Tips

• Plant ‘Skyrocket’ in well-draining soil.
• Keep young plants moist, older plants can be allowed to dry out more.
• Grow in full sun.

Pruning and Maintenance

You don’t need to fertilize or prune your ‘Skyrocket’ juniper. It will maintain that lovely shape all on its own. If you see a dead branch, remove it. You can also trim off any branches that stick out at funny angles.

When you prune, cut back to the main branch or trunk. If you prune back into old wood that lacks any soft, green growth, it won’t send out new growth, and you’ll be left with a bare stump, so it’s best to take the whole branch off.

We have a whole guide to pruning junipers that provides full details.

‘Skyrocket’ junipers are fairly slow-growing, so don’t overdo the pruning. You’ll be waiting a long time for it to regrow.

If you experience heavy, prolonged snow in your area, you might want to wrap your shrub in burlap or secure it with twine to maintain the shape and protect the branches from bending and breaking. Don’t leave this on all winter long unless you consistently have heavy snow.

You want the plant to grow strong and resilient without you needing to baby it, so unless you have a particularly heavy snow in the forecast, I advocate for allowing whatever will happen to happen.

The most important thing to watch for isn’t disease but root rot caused by too much water.

This is a physiological issue where the roots simply can’t access the oxygen they need and they drown.

Remember, good drainage is your friend! If your soil isn’t well-draining, you have to be extra careful about how much water you give the plant. And if you live in a wet area with poor drainage, it’s best to find something else to grow.

Best Uses for Skyrocket Junipers

With a tree or shrub of this tall, columnar shape, there are only so many ways you can put it to use. As a windbreak, ‘Skyrocket’ is pretty much impossible to beat.

Line up a few, and you’ll be wondering what the heck wind is anyway. As a privacy screen, they’re better than a thick brick wall, and twice as tall.

As a tall centerpiece for a garden, ‘Skyrocket’ makes quite the statement. A grouping of three or five is equally striking.

CF asks about removing grass so she can start gardening:

“What do you recommend for removing sod when starting a grocery row garden? We’ve  had tons of rain this September, which is unusual. I’m in Southwest FL and have a yard. Do I need a broad fork? What about removing sod? What do you recommend? It’s a big job! I’m planning to test the soil by the company that you recommend. I’m very excited. I have Echo close by, I’m in Elise Pickett’s seed club and I’m coming to ScrubFest this year. I have a few young trees planted in the spacing that you recommend, but now I’m thinking of doing a grocery row garden ( I have many of your books, which I’m currently reading-composting, grocery row, Florida food forest) 2 beds for grocery row, I’m thinking. In addition, I already have a new raised bed (not planted yet), but it’s pretty shaded, so I was reconsidering. What can I grow in slight shade? It gets morning sun, but by afternoon it starts to become shaded. Also, how do you keep rabbits and squirrels from eating everything you plant? Any help would be appreciated.”

There are four main methods we’ve used to remove grass before starting a new garden. These apply whether you’re Grocery Row Gardening or just putting in beds or a row garden.

1. Using a Broadfork to Remove Grass

We have used a broadfork to remove the grass and create all our garden beds. In sandy soil, it’s not terribly difficult but it takes a long time. In clay soil, it’s a full-body workout that takes a long, long time. We’ve done it, though!

To remove sod with a broadfork, we just fork into the ground, lift the soil, and grab the grass in clumps and throw it to the side to dry out. Later, when it’s dead, we throw it in the compost pile or use it as mulch.

It takes a while, but the soil is loosened well and the grass and weeds are completely removed, giving you a nice, loose area and a fresh start without lots of rhizomes remaining in the ground where they can resprout. You can also use a fork and a spade, but a broadfork is faster.

2. Using a Tarp to Remove Grass

Tarping the ground is a really nice zero-till way to prepare a new garden area. It does not invert the soil and it makes all the grass rot down beautifully, leaving all that organic matter there for your upcoming garden.

On the down side, using a tarp to kill grass takes months. It’s great to do in summer or fall, in preparation for putting in a new garden in the spring. When it’s hot, it works a lot faster. My favorite tarping material is DeWitt Sunbelt woven nursery fabric. We’ve used that in our nurseries and it lasts a long time and kills off weeds and grass while also allowing water to pass through.

My friend Leo used a big tarp to kill off a big patch of grass in his lawn, laying it down multiple months before we installed he and his wife’s Grocery Row Garden the following spring. You can see what the ground looks like at the beginning of the film we made documenting the process of installation.

We probably didn’t even need to till. We could have just dug out the paths and put that topsoil up on the beds. Tilling did break a lot of tree roots, though, which was helpful. And the ground here is harder than Florida sand, making it difficult to dig up dirt for the beds.

3. Using a Tiller to Break New Ground

We’ve also used a tiller or a tractor to break up sod and install new gardens. It’s very satisfying to tear up a big patch of grass and turn it under in just a few minutes. Unfortunately, if the ground is moist, the grass often re-roots; plus, an abundance of dormant seeds are turned up by tillage. If we need to get a garden in fast, this is what we do, but it’s not ideal.

Once we till, we spend a lot of time raking and pulling out obvious clumps of grass that have been turned over by the rotors so they don’t re-root.

If you manage to till right before a long drought, it works much better since the grass roots dry out and die. But you can’t plant right away in that case, either.

When we use tillage to start a new garden, we have to be vigilant about chopping out grass and weed as they emerge, and keeping the ground well-mulched to stop weed seeds from sprouting.

A small area works better than tilling a big area and having to hoe it all the time.

4. Starting with Lasagna Gardens

The final way to remove sod and start a new garden is to sheet mulch, or “lasagna garden” the area, as Patricia Lanza calls it.

Just cut the grass, water well, then lay down cardboard over the ground, followed by a thick mulch of whatever you have, with as many organic ingredients as you can add. Leaves, unsprayed hay, wood chips, compost, manure, chop-and-drop green plant material, seaweed – all these are good.

The cardboard acts as a weed block and knocks out the grass when combined with a thick layer of mulch. That grass then rots down and makes nice, rich soil beneath the layer of mulch. The mulch also rots down and feeds the soil, bringing in lots of fungi and worms to your garden. This is really useful in poor-quality sand and hard clay.

The soil improvement is noticeable:

On the down side, it’s a lot of work sourcing and hauling in lots of mulching materials, so we’ve never done this method on a large scale. Perhaps if we had truckloads of mulch we would.

However, if you’re only doing two Grocery Rows, this might be the best option. The plants love it. Just plant your trees and shrubs first and mulch around them, then make pockets in the mulch to plant your other plants.

Here’s a lasagna gardening demonstration we did:

Conclusion

All of these methods have their ups and downs, but they will all work. Do what looks good to you – you will have success with any of them, provided you put in the hard work at the beginning.

As for your final questions:

1. Everything grows in your area in slight shade. Full sun in South Florida is insane, and a little shade often improves rather than decreases yields. In full shade, you can grow ginger.
2. The best way to exclude rabbits is with fencing. The best way to deal with squirrels is to shoot them all.

Thanks for writing, and God bless. Send pictures when your garden is growing!

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In 2017 Bailey Nurseries sent me four ‘Spring Lace’ viburnums to trial. When in flower in spring, they have become one of my most asked-about plants. An interspecific cross developed at the University of Georgia by Michael Dirr, this lovely rounded selection is a relatively compact plant in the viburnum world, reaching its mature size in about 8 to 10 years. ‘Spring Lace’ thrives in average conditions and is relatively drought tolerant once established. It doesn’t skip a beat in the heat and humidity of the South and has been such an outstanding performer that we now grow it for our plant sales.

The flower display pushes this plant over the top as an indispensable workhorse. The 4- to 6-inch-wide fragrant lacecaps float charmingly above the foliage. Large sterile florets surround fertile flowers that provide a food source for early pollinators. The dark green leaves are evergreen to semi-evergreen and provide an excellent coarse leathery backdrop for the flowers and neighboring plants throughout the rest of the year.

Neither I nor colleagues around the country I have consulted have seen this selection set fruit; regardless of that, it is stunningly elegant. Its dense structure makes it useful where a low screen is needed. It can also be used as a specimen, a foundation plant, or in borders.

With its naturally tight, compact habit, ‘Spring Lace’ requires little maintenance. I haven’t seen it nibbled yet, but I consider the verdict still out on whether or not this shrub is troubled by deer.

‘Spring Lace’ viburnum

Viburnum ‘Spring Lace’

Zones: 6–9

Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil

Native range: Hybrid

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Jason Reeves has been putting plants to the test at the University of Tennessee in Jackson since 2002 and can be followed on Facebook at “Jason Reeves – in the garden.”

Illustration: Elara Tanguy

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Dazzled by the big, bold inflorescences of pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana and cvs., Zones 5–11) but not the invasiveness? Check out Golden Sunset® yellow prairie grass. This native, selected by the University of Minnesota Landscape Arboretum, will knock your socks off with its large, golden, featherlike plumes that appear in late summer and remain attractive through winter. Unlike other yellow prairie grasses, this sturdy, upright cultivar is no floppy pushover. It is an excellent choice for screening and creating dramatic sweeps of interest in the landscape.

Golden Sunset® yellow prairie grass

Sorghastrum nutans ‘MNYG318153’

Zones: 3–9

Size: 3 to 6 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide

Conditions: Full sun; dry to moderately moist, well-drained soil

Native range: Eastern and central North America

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Sometimes plants are just like us gardeners and can’t wait to get going at the beginning of the season. Often our gardens trumpet forth in a symphony of color and texture but then start to fade out as autumn approaches, leaving us to wish for some awesome soloist to come in and take over the show. This is where ‘Grape Crush’ New England aster comes to the rescue.

A well-behaved plant, this late-season performer supports the landscape in spring and summer with its deep-green leaves and its neat, domed growth habit. But as the rest of the garden runs out of enthusiasm, it takes center stage with a soliloquy of rich, deep purple blooms that cloak the entire plant.

‘Grape Crush’ descends from a hearty native species, but it is more compact than its parents and blooms longer than other asters. It prefers moderate moisture, so it probably shouldn’t be considered for droughty locations. However, it is deer resistant and salt tolerant. Hummingbirds, monarch butterflies, and other pollinators adore this perennial’s nectar, but watch out for the usual assortment of pests, including nematodes, thrips, lace bugs, Japanese beetles, leafhoppers, and various aphids. To keep ‘Grape Crush’ shapely and healthy, divide it every few years. Plants can either be left standing during winter or cut back to just a few inches aboveground, where the basal new growth will rise again in spring.

Use this showy aster in any style garden. It can grace formal or informal landscapes and cottage-, wildflower-, or even geometric-style designs. The deeply colored foliage and brilliant flowers contrast nicely against lighter colors. You can also place this “purplicious” performer in a spot backed by large ornamental grasses to create a complementary scene of color and texture. It will even adapt to a large container or snuggle up with a taller vertical or cascading partner. It makes an excellent cut flower too.

‘Grape Crush’ New England aster

Symphyotrichum novae-angliae ‘Grape Crush’

Zones: 3–8

Conditions: Full sun; average, well-drained soil

Native range: Eastern North America

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Jane Gates is a landscape designer who recently returned to New England after living in Los Angeles for more than 20 years.

Illustration: Elara Tanguy

Sources:

My name is Joanne Guerriero, and this is the garden created by my dad, Donald King, age 88. It’s located in Bucks County, Pennsylvania, a 6B zone.

Nineteen years ago when my parents (Don and Barbara) moved into this home, there was a bit of structure in the backyard garden—a brick patio and a small pond.

Since then, Don has created a bit-wild, naturalistic, whimsical environment that fills the yard. Being friendly with a large local landscape designer gave Don access to the business’ “burn pile” made up of dying, damaged, or otherwise discarded plants. More than 75% of the garden’s plantings Don nurtured back to health. They are recycled “rescues” that were removed from other gardens!

The garden is populated with perennial plants, flowers, and shrubs, and Don adds annuals for color and interest. The garden is laid out in vignettes, with sculptures, reimagined trash, structures he has built (dry well and dry bed, outhouse, stone walls, bridges, walkways) and recycled natural materials dotting the landscape. It’s a low-maintenance wonderland and my dad’s pride.

Each year I create a monthly calendar made up of 12 garden photos and then share copies with family members. We call it “The Garden of the Kings Calendar.”

An arbor makes a great entrance to a brick path lined with daylilies (Hemerocallis hybrid, Zones 3–9).

A little outhouse serves as a garden sculpture in a quiet, mossy corner.

There is so much to take in here—the bridge over a pond filled with water lilies (Nymphaea, Zones 5–9), the beautiful brick path, the arbor that draws the eye, and the tall trees beyond. And don’t miss the little alligator hanging out on the bridge!

This is a lovely spot to sit and take in the garden, and it’s a perfect transition from a grassy lawn in a more sunny spot to the moss lawn in more shade.

Look how healthy and lush the water lilies are! You can barely see the water.

A fascinating piece of repurposed garden art

A frog fountain birdbath at the edge of the pond.

Creative garden art set against lush greenery

A simple ceramic planter serves as a focal point.

A bust contemplates the beautiful hostas (Hosta hybrids, Zones 3–9)

A dry streambed runs through the garden.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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North America has been through more than a few tree blights and insect infestations. Pretty much all of them have been devastating for the affected species as well as the species that rely on the trees for food and shelter. We’ve lost American chestnut and elm trees to blights. Emerald ash borers are decimating ash trees. And now there is beech leaf disease.

Beech leaf disease was first discovered in North America in Ohio in 2012. Caused by Litylenchus crenatae mccannii, a microscopic parasitic worm native to Asia, the disease is found in American and European beeches. (In Japanese beeches, the nematode causes a mild disease.) As of 2022, the disease has spread to Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Maine and Canada, and there are reports of it popping up in Virginia and Michigan. The disease kills trees by damaging their ability to photosynthesize, which cascades into a general decline in tree health, opening it up to secondary infections. All of this can kill a tree in as little as six years.

Why is beech leaf disease a big deal?

Beeches make great ornamental trees, but they are also one of the most abundant trees in eastern forests. Second only to maples and along with birches, beeches are a major part of the eastern canopy. It has both ecological and economical importance. Beechnuts provide food for squirrels, chipmunks, black bear, deer, foxes, and birds (such as blue jays and ducks). Beech wood is used in furniture, flooring, veneer, and plywood. With their deep roots, these trees also prevent erosion.

Beeches can live up to 300 years old, with some specimens reaching 400 years old. They can grow between 80 and 130 feet tall, and need to be between 40 and 60 years old to produce nuts. The disease is killing younger trees faster than older ones, which will change the forest composition in years to come if there are no new trees to replace the ones that die of old age or other diseases.

What are the symptoms of beech leaf disease?

How to Grow Green Onions: A Comprehensive Guide for Gardeners in Arizona and Beyond

Green onions, also known as scallions or bunching onions, are a delight to grow. They’re versatile, easy-to-care-for plants that add a punch of flavor to any dish. While all onions can be harvested early and enjoyed as scallions, green onions have a milder flavor than their mature counterparts, making them an excellent choice for those who prefer a gentler taste.

If you’re wondering how to grow green onions, especially in hot summer climates like Arizona’s, we’ve got you covered with this comprehensive guide.

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Varieties to Try

Two easy-to-grow varieties worth considering:

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Planting Green Onions

If you live in a hot climate, plant green onions outside starting in the fall when temperatures start to cool. For example, in Arizona, it’s best to wait to plant scallion seeds outdoors from September 15th until April. 

In other areas, plant green onions 4 to 6 weeks before the average last frost date or when the soil temperature reaches 45°F (7°C), ideally 60°–85°F (15°–29°C). For continuous production, consider planting every 2 to 4 weeks.

Plant seeds ¼ inch deep (0.64 cm), with a spacing of 1/2 inch (1.27 cm). Thinning is not necessary unless larger onions are desired.

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Location, Soil, and Sunlight

Green onions prefer friable, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.2–6.8. They need at least 6 hours of sunlight daily. If you’re using the square-foot gardening method, aim for 16 plants per square foot.

Excellent companion plants for green onions include spinach and strawberries.

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Caring for Green Onions

Green onions are easy to grow and care for. Ensure they have even, constant moisture, and don’t let them dry out. Mulching helps maintain soil moisture. They generally don’t require additional fertilizer and are usually pest and disease-free.

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Growing Green Onions in Containers

If you’re short on space, green onions do well in containers. Just make sure your container is at least 6 inches deep.

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Harvesting Green Onions

You can harvest green onions at any stage, but they’re usually ready when they reach 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) tall. Clip plants about an inch above the soil surface for repeated harvests, and they will regrow. To grow bulbs, harvest entire plants, leaving 3″-4″ (7.62 cm – 10.16 cm) of space between remaining plants.

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Using and Storing Green Onions

For the best results, use green onions quickly after harvesting. Store them with roots in water, and they’ll last about a week. You can also chop and freeze them. The entire onion is edible. Replant the roots to grow more onions!

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Tips for Growing Green Onions in Hot Climates

Growing green onions in Arizona’s low desert (or other hot climates)may require extra care. Provide shade if growing during warm months to extend the season, prevent bolting, and encourage germination. Plant seeds a little deeper if temperatures are still warm outside.

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Learn how to grow I’itoi onions and bulbing onions in these blogposts:

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In this time of climate change and habitat loss, it’s more important than ever to embrace native plants in the garden.

Turning your backyard into a sanctuary for pollinators, birds, small mammals, and more can do a lot to mitigate the ecological changes faced by wildlife these days.

Read on to learn more about how to identify and grow American bittersweet in your own backyard.

What Is American Bittersweet?

A denizen of woodland edges and brightly lit glades, American bittersweet is a capable climber and lover of rich, preferably moist, soils.

Native to a wide swath of North America, this vine is extremely accommodating, tolerating lean soils, cold temperatures, and almost full shade.

Hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8, C. scandens is more common in the warmer climes of the Mid-Atlantic and Southeast, however, the spread of its invasive cousin, C. orbicularis, has altered the native’s distribution.

What’s more, the two species hybridize, producing a plant that looks a little like both its parents.

The native species is pretty tricky to distinguish from the invasive. Both have rounded, oval shaped leaves that turn a lovely, pale yellow in the fall.

Both can grow quite quickly, and to great heights, in rich soils, and both boast clusters of orange berries with a firm, yellow casing, or carpel, covering them.

The berries are key to identification. While the invasive species produces what are known as “axial” clusters, nested in the lateral side shoots of the plant’s stem, the native makes “terminal” clusters, which are borne at the very end of the vine’s growing tip.

C. scandens has flowers that are cute and sweet, but fairly nondescript, pale green to white in coloration.

These of course are also positioned right at the tip of the vine’s terminal growing point.

Cultivation and History

Unfortunately, American bittersweet’s invasive relative is the bigger standout in horticultural history.

Introduced over 100 years ago, C. orbicularis was noted to have many of the same characteristics as its native relative, except for its ability to produce prolific amounts of the bright orange fruits which made it so sought after.

Once the new Asian bittersweet hit nurseries in the 1860s or thereabouts, American bittersweet went out of style.

Shortly thereafter, C. orbicularis jumped the garden fence and went rogue, beginning its invasive campaign in fields and woods across the country.

With the flourishing of the native plant movement, now is a great time to help return this piece of America’s ecological heritage back to the landscape.

Legend has it the native vine was utilized by native people to treat a variety of ailments including symptoms common to tuberculosis.

But before you leap for your mortar and pestle, remember to never use wild plants for medicine without the consultation of an expert.

American Bittersweet Propagation

American bittersweet is easy to establish in the garden as the plants tend to be hardy and vigorous.

The easiest method is to buy a mature plant at the nursery, but there are a few ways for the more adventurous at heart to get this plant growing at home.

From Cuttings

American bittersweet roots fairly easily from softwood cuttings taken from the plant’s growing tip. To do this successfully, you’ll need some sterilized pruners, a couple four-inch pots, rooting hormone, and sterilized potting soil.

Cuttings root best when taken from the soft, pliable new growth produced in late spring. A good four- to six-inch shoot will give you the best chance of success. Make sure you take your cutting right above a bud on the parent plant.

Pinch off the bottom set of leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and bury the bottom of the cutting in potting substrate so the nodes where the lower leaves were removed are level with the soil.

Cover with a plastic tent to ensure a humid environment and consistently moist soil.

You’ll still have to water your cuttings a little as they develop roots over the next four to six weeks. Using a spray bottle typically works well.

Place the pots in bright, indirect light and begin the vigil for new growth. As soon as you see a new green growing tip, take it as confirmation that roots have grown.

Rooted cuttings can be moved outside to be gradually hardened off before transplanting.

After transplanting, just be sure to baby them a little in their first year. They’ll need extra water and a lot of weed control until they grow stronger.

From Seed

Because the germination rate for American bittersweet can be patchy, growing this vine from seed is not a method I’d recommend unless you have a lot of experience.

Cultivating this species from seed also means you roll the dice when it comes to which sex you produce.

C. scandens seed has to be cold stratified, meaning it has to go through a prolonged cold period before it can germinate. If you buy seed online it likely will have been refrigerated to emulate the conditions of winter and prepare it for planting.

In spring, start American bittersweet seed in two- to four-inch pots indoors. Bury the seed just below the surface of the soil, no more than a quarter of an inch deep.

Keep the potting soil moist, but not soaking, until the seeds sprout. Make sure your pots receive a full six to eight hours of sunlight each day to aid and speed germination.

Once your little bittersweet seedlings have several pairs of leaves, plant them out in the garden as described below. Make sure to weed and water well for their first couple of years until they are established.

How to Grow American Bittersweet

American bittersweet needs little more than an appropriately sized hole in the ground to grow. Provided you are in Zones 3 to 8, it can do all the rest itself!

For the best production of berries, site your plant somewhere that receives at least six hours of sunlight a day.

The edge of a woodland or side of an arbor is perfect. Consider that this climber may reach up to 20 feet tall once mature, so give it room to spread.

If you’ve purchased a mature specimen, dig a hole a little wider and deeper than the plant’s root ball, cover its roots completely, and water well.

C. scandens prefers rich, sandy, well-draining moist soils such as those often found along rivers. A lightly acidic to neutral pH of around 6.0 to 7.0 is preferable.

If your soil is on the lean side, top dress with compost once a year in spring. This native vine’s water needs are relatively low so once your plants are established, there’s no need to water unless you’re experiencing a drought.

Male flowers are visited by a variety of small insects which will pollinate the female’s flowers and ensure fruit production come fall.

These plants are dioecious, so male and female flowers are found on separate plants. Make sure the female is within a few hundred feet of her mate to make this process easier and more successful.

To circumvent the often imperfect dalliance of cross-pollination and outbreeding, try ‘Autumn Revolution,’ a self-fertile variety.

Growing Tips

• Situate plants in full sun to dappled sunlight.
• If soil is lean, top dress with compost once a year.
• Water weekly and deeply during droughts or dry seasons.

Pruning and Maintenance

A true armchair gardener’s choice, there’s not much to do when it comes to American bittersweet maintenance.

If you happened to site your plants in dry, lean soil, make sure to top dress once a year with good organic compost and water deeply once a week.

Other than that, rein in your bittersweet’s tendrils and prune when necessary, then sit back and enjoy.

Although pruning American bittersweet is not necessary, you may have to remove some of the lateral shoots every once in a while to stop your vine from intruding on the space of other plants.

To create a bushier and more compact plant, trim up to a fifth of the plant in early spring, before leaf out occurs.

If you want to increase your number of females, follow the directions above on propagating cuttings, which will enable you to create clones of female plants.

‘Autumn Revolution’ and ‘Sweet Tangerine’ are two notable cultivars which are monoecious, meaning the male and female flowers occur on the same plant.

These plants are self-fertile and will produce berries on their own.

Managing Pests and Disease

Nearly as tenacious as its invasive counterpart, American bittersweet tends to be free of pest and disease problems.

The pests you’re most likely to encounter are typically nothing to worry about, unless your plant is stressed due to other reasons, like drought.

Two-Marked Treehopper

One such insect that falls into this category is the two-marked treehopper (Enchenopa binotata).

Native to North America, this springy little insect looks just like a thorn and loves to feed on the sap of woody plants like redbuds, ash trees, and American bittersweet.

Despite heavy feeding, this insect rarely causes enough damage to warrant intervention, unless plants are already under duress.

If you choose to control treehoppers, your plant will have to undergo some pretty heavy-duty chemical treatments that are best completed by a professional.

Two-marked treehoppers lay their eggs in slits in C. scandens bark and overwinter there, so they can be quite tricky to target.

If you’re having a problem with defoliation and stress due to a healthy population of hoppers, the best thing to do may be to add an extra top dressing of compost to your vine and treat it to extra weekly watering, too.

A little more TLC may provide the boost your plant needs to fend for itself.

Euonymus Scale

In some areas where the invasive euonymus scale (Unaspis euonymi) is present, C. scandens vines can be so badly affected that twig dieback or even defoliation occurs.

Euonymus scale is typically first identified by the small, white, waxy covering that houses the adult pests.

Be prepared to apply this product several times a year to target both the adult and juvenile stages of these insects. Typically this will mean application in winter to early spring, late spring, and late summer.

Remember to apply neem oil on cloudy, cool days or in the morning, so you don’t burn your plants’ foliage.

Best Uses of American Bittersweet

This native climber is a wonderful addition to the arbor, woodland fringe, or wildlife garden. Numerous species of birds will eat the berries including bobwhites, wild turkeys, and pheasants.

If you want to cultivate this species to use for seasonal decorating make sure to give it plenty of sunlight. It is a peerless choice for durable, dryable berries that hold their bright color over the years.

Note that the berries, if eaten, can cause a really bad tummy ache for both dogs and humans alike.

This morning is overcast and cool, with some pleasant breeze. We’re still not getting rain, yet there is beauty everywhere.

On Monday I got a “new” vintage lens: a Minolta 135mm 2.8 MC-Rokkor, which I adapted to my Canon R6 and took out shooting around the food forest and garden.

The chaste trees are back in bloom:

And the sugarcane is coming in, despite the very dry weather. We won’t get great yields, but the sweetness is excellent.

Sugarcane is so beautiful I don’t understand why it isn’t grown as an ornamental in landscaping.

The pokeweed is going to seed. We don’t eat them, but I like to have them on the homestead as a chop-and-drop plant.

The Jerusalem artichokes are in bloom now, cheerfully pressing on through the drought.

And the compost pile pumpkin vine has decided to create at least a dozen new pumpkins around the edges of the garden.

It’s amazing how long this vine has lasted – and how much it’s yielding!

The sunn hemp didn’t get nearly as thick and tall as it did when we planted it last year, probably due to the extreme heat and lack of water. Yet it’s covered the garden with lovely blooms.

And speaking of blooms, the bees really love the African blue basil. It’s always a-buzz with activity.

A common weed here is the railroad vine, which I like to see in the wild but not so much in our gardens.

Another lovely red flower that is appearing everywhere now is the spider lily. They disappear through the summer and then shoot up flowers in the fall, followed by leaves that persist through the winter and spring.

God is good. Even the “weeds” have beauty.

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Are you ready to dive headfirst into an adventure of Viking proportions, or perhaps something slightly less intense, in the mesmerising city of Stockholm?

Stockholm is like the cool, artsy cousin of Venice, with an eclectic mix of attractions suitable for the whole family. Whether you’re dodging cannonball-sized cinnamon buns or practising your ABBA dance moves, Stockholm promises a family escapade like no other.

So, pack your sense of wonder (and maybe some rain gear, this is Sweden after all) as we embark on a journey through 15 fun family activities to enjoy in Stockholm.

To get your trip started well, you can book an airport taxi with the friendly folk over at AtoB Transfer. Depending on which airport you’re arriving at, you could book a Skavsta airport transfer, one from Arlanda, or wherever else. With a comfortable and reliable airport taxi, you can start and end your trip perfectly. AtoB airport transfer service even offers child seats, meaning your young ones can always travel safely.

1. Gamla Stan: the Disneyland of Stockholm

Our quest begins in the fantastical realm of Gamla Stan. As you stroll through its cobbled streets and fancy pastel buildings, you’ll wonder if you’ve accidentally tumbled into the pages of a Hans Christian Andersen story.

Be sure to hire a Skavsta airport taxi and check out the Royal Palace, where guards change shifts with the precision of clockwork – a bit like synchronised swimmers but with less water!

2. Vasa museum: where size matters

The Vasa Museum is home to a warship named Vasa that had one teeny-tiny problem – it sank on its maiden voyage. Rest assured, this museum isn’t about embarrassing maritime mishaps; it’s about celebrating colossal mistakes.

Kids will love gawking at this leviathan of the deep and questioning the qualifications of its captain.

3. Skansen open-air museum: time travel without the flux capacitor

Ready to embark on a time-travelling adventure? Book an AtoB airport transfer and head over to Skansen Open-Air Museum, where historic buildings, farm animals, and staff decked out in period costumes create an environment that’s less “modern Sweden” and more “Swedish time warp.”

Meet critters, get a taste of Swedish traditions, and maybe even find yourself debating the merits of powdered wigs with a staff member.

4. ABBA: The Museum – channel your inner dancing queen (or king)

Ah, ABBA – the Swedish sensation that made the world fall in love with catchy tunes and extravagant jumpsuits. ABBA: The Museum isn’t just a tribute; it’s an invitation to become an honorary member of the group. So go ahead, don your shiniest platform boots and let your inner Dancing Queen or King reign supreme.

5. Junibacken: where bedtime stories come alive

For your little adventurers and bookworms, Junibacken is a wonderland straight out of Astrid Lindgren’s wildest tales.

Hop on a storybook train and journey through the enchanted worlds of Pippi Longstocking, Emil of Lönneberga, and other beloved characters. Pro tip: keep an eye out for the Moomins – they might be planning their next quirky adventure.

6. Gröna Lund: screams and thrills, Viking style

Ready to unleash your inner Viking? Gröna Lund is the place for it!

This historic amusement park offers heart-pounding rides, games, and live concerts. From roller coasters that’ll leave your hair wind-swept to bumper cars that turn even the calmest of relatives into daredevils, there’s something for every thrill-seeker.

7. Djurgården: where nature and city collide

Djurgården, the city’s verdant heart, is like a green oasis in the urban jungle.

You can rent a bike, explore lush parks, and bask in the serenity of nature. Don’t forget to hire an AtoB airport transfer and visit Rosendals Trädgård, a garden café that’ll make you feel like you’re in a botanical dream – with snacks!

8. Stockholm Archipelago: a maze of islands

If you’re up for some island-hopping, the Stockholm Archipelago is your playground.

These islands offer pristine beaches, cosy cottages, and an abundance of opportunities for hiking and swimming.

9. Swedish meatballs: the holy grail of comfort food

Swedish meatballs are the culinary equivalent of a warm hug from Grandma. Whether you’re slurping them up at a local joint, or attempting to recreate the magic at home, these bite-sized balls of delight are a must-try.

10. Icebar Stockholm: chilling like a pro

Let’s talk about embracing the cold, Stockholm style.

Icebar Stockholm is where you can sip cocktails from glasses made entirely of ice, all while surrounded by icy sculptures.

11. Fotografiska: the selfie capital of Sweden

For the art enthusiasts in the family, Fotografiska is a treasure chest brimming with contemporary photography. The exhibitions will make you ponder, inspire you, and provide the perfect backdrop for artsy selfies.

12. Moderna Museet: modern art for everyone

Get ready for a colourful escapade at Moderna Museet, where modern and contemporary art collide in a kaleidoscope of creativity. Even if you don’t quite “get” some of the pieces, just nod thoughtfully and pretend you do – it’s all part of the art-appreciation experience.

13. Stockholm Metro: where commuting becomes an art form

Who knew commuting could be this delightful? Stockholm’s metro system doubles as the world’s longest art gallery, with each station transformed into a visual masterpiece.

Imagine waiting for your train surrounded by stunning artwork – it’s like being in a posh art museum, just with more ticket machines.

14. Swedish nature: where Mother Nature rules

When you need a break from city life, let Sweden’s untouched wilderness be your refuge.

Hiking, camping, and wildlife spotting are just a few of the adventures that await. But beware of the moose – these cunning forest dwellers are the kings of the woods, and they’re not afraid to let you know it.

15. Astrid Lindgren’s World: where imagination knows no bounds

Round off your quirky adventure with a visit to Astrid Lindgren’s World in Vimmerby, a short jaunt using airport taxi from Stockholm. It’s like stepping into the pages of Astrid Lindgren’s iconic tales. Watch your kids’ eyes light up as they explore Pippi Longstocking’s wacky world, complete with her gravity-defying pigtails.

Stockholm – a tale as quirky as Sweden itself

Stockholm, with its blend of history, culture, and offbeat charm, offers a family vacation like no other. From strolling through Gamla Stan to getting your groove on at ABBA: The Museum and venturing into the mesmerising archipelago, this city caters to every taste and age group.

You can embrace all things Swedish – from meatballs to ice bars – and let the quirky charm of this city sweep you off your feet. So pack your bags, book your Skavsta airport transfer, and embark on a family trip through Stockholm, the city where quirkiness reigns supreme. Skål (cheers) to a one-of-a-kind adventure in this Swedish wonderland!

Chances are, you’ve seen a video of someone soaking old banana peels in a Mason jar of water and pouring it over top of their houseplants. They claim it’s the best fertilizer, and their plants have never been happier. But…how true can that statement be? Here’s what you can really expect when using banana peels as fertilizer.

You can’t believe everything you see on TikTok. Or Instagram. Or the internet, for that matter.

Every day, I see plant hacks advertised as miracle cures or with mysterious superpowers you can use on your houseplants and garden. Even better, they come from kitchen scraps or materials you already have in your pantry!

I hate to burst the bubble, but many of these aren’t as awesome as they appear—one of those being banana peels.

So before you go bananas for banana peel fertilizer, let’s talk about the proposed benefits and the realistic value of using banana peels in the garden.

This post will talk about…

The Importance of Potassium

Potassium is one of the three key macronutrients that plants need alongside nitrogen and phosphorus. This means plants take potassium in large amounts compared to other micronutrients and minerals.

Potassium helps to promote all-around plant health, boosting its immune system and disease resistance. A plant that gets enough potassium has plenty of vigour.

But just because it’s one of the more essential nutrients, it doesn’t necessarily mean your soil lacks potassium. The best way to know what your soil needs or may be lacking is to perform a soil test. It’s easy to do one at home with a soil test kit.

Banana Peels as Fertilizer. Do They Really Work?

We all know that bananas are an excellent source of potassium. Our parents tell us to eat our bananas to promote a healthy heart and to stop those darn leg cramps.

So, in theory, bananas should also be an excellent source of potassium for the garden, right?

Well, not quite. The common practice I’ve seen is making banana tea by soaking the peels in water and then using the banana water as fertilizer for houseplants and the garden. This practice is similar to compost tea, which is a hot garden debate itself.

The reality is that very little of the banana decomposes, meaning there is little nutritional value in the banana water for your plants.

Another way people use banana peels is to just put them right in the soil. Really, it takes a long time for the banana peels to break down. It can also result in air pockets and a smelly garden.

Bananas aren’t some instant nutrient boost. They’re just like any other kitchen scrap you toss in the compost pile.

Even if your garden does lack potassium, according to a soil test, there are better ways to get it. Compost and other garden amendments like alfalfa meal and wood ash can be great potassium additions.

Want a better fertilizer recipe? Try my indoor plant fertilizer recipe.

How to Use Banana Peels in the Garden

If you want to use banana peels in the garden, treat them like any other kitchen scraps. Because yes, it’s always better to compost your kitchen scraps rather than put them in the landfill.

Banana peels are considered greens in a compost pile, alongside other fruit and vegetable scraps. Greens hold lots of moisture and typically have high nitrogen content.

Greens need to be combined with browns, such as leaves or cardboard, which are high in carbon content and allow the air to flow so the compost doesn’t get wet and stinky.

So! Just put your banana peels in the compost bin and ensure you’re following the right compost recipe (try this recipe) so everything breaks down quickly and without any big stink.

Frequently Asked Questions About Banana Peels in the Garden

More Gardening Questions Answered

Alice Fleurkens in Sweaburg, Ontario, has shared her garden with us several times on the GPOD, but today she sent in some photos of a friend’s garden, which is just gorgeous.

This is my friend Anna’s garden. I had not been there for quite a while, and boy was I blown away by her little piece of paradise. Her plants have grown to sizes I had never seen before. Anna and her husband, John, really do not have any lawn; their whole backyard is flowers and vegetables.

Look at all the planters Anna makes. She told me they were nicer earlier in the summer, but I think they are still beautiful. The bright red flowers are from begonias (Begonia hybrid, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) and canna (Canna hybrid, Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb).

This begonia is covered with blooms.

Look at these gigantic agaves (Agave americana, Zones 8–10). Anna told me she has had them for about eight years.

In the winter, the agaves go in the garage. You can see they are set on wheels to make them easier to move. And can you believe the size of the dahlias (Dahlia variabilis, Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb) in the background? Just totally amazing. I think they are probably 5 to 6 feet tall.

A smaller agave in a ceramic pot and potted angel’s trumpets (Brugmansia hybrid, Zones 8–11) add flare to this planting.

This is the side of Anna and John’s garden. There are all kinds of different small sedums between the rocks. Two weeping copper beeches (Fagus sylvatica, Zones 4–7) have dramatic foliage and fit well in the narrow space.

This orange flower, Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia, annual), was supposed to be 6 feet tall but grew to about 9 feet.

Anna John have built many rock walls around their property.

A beautiful hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata, Zones 3–8)

This tree with the orange flowers is just gorgeous. It is a lantana (Lantana camara, Zones 8–11). Lantanas are usually grown as annuals in cold-winter climates but can develop into large shrubs or small trees if overwintered. From the wheels on the platform the container is sitting on, it looks like this goes into the garage for the cold months of the year like the agaves.

What a view of the huge variegated agave with ivy (Hedera helix, Zones 4–9) cascading down the retaining wall behind.

 

Have a garden you’d like to share?

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

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I may be biased when it comes to ferns because I grew up with hippie parents in wooded Mill Valley, CA, during the 70s. In our house, ferns hung from the kitchen ceiling and occupied every corner; outside, ferns mingled with redwood trees. But even without that childhood exposure and immersion, I would have liked ferns. They’re lush, easy to grow, architectural, and a bit magical. They also make a solid presence in a woodland, Asian, or modern garden.

Below, five of my favorite ferns (of course, I have way more than five, but I couldn’t resist the alliteration).

Dryopteris erythrosora

This fern goes by “autumn fern” due to the new growth that emerges slightly pinkish before morphing into a festive coppery red, then finally maturing to a deep green. Slow and low growing, it only gets two feet high but can spread by easy-to-manage runners. It also appreciates regular drinks of water and a mostly shaded spot. I like to plant this festive fern with Japanese maples and Pieris. USDA Zone: 4-9.

Woodwardia fimbriata

Known as “giant chain fern”, this large fern can reach close to five feet high and is native to western North America, including California, which is one reason why I like this sturdy, evergreen fern—I am a supporter of planting natives. The other reasons: deer don’t devour it, it can take a wee bit more sun in cool climates, and it makes an impressive clump in a woodland or native garden. Once established, this native isn’t super thirsty but looks better with regular drinks. USDA Zone 8-10.

Polystichum munitum

Another fantastic and easy-to-grow California native, western sword fern is evergreen with slightly arching dark green fronds forming a clump of up to three feet high. In addition to being very adaptable and reliable, it has low water needs. Part sun to deep shade is totally fine. Deer and other pests also seem to leave this one alone. Pro tip: Cut the fronds and add them to flower arrangements. USDA Zone 5-9.

Blechnum brasiliense

While I really like stately tree ferns, sometimes there isn’t room for them. This is why I am a fan of this dwarf tree fern that produces a crown of darker green fronds that start out a striking pinkish red. Growing to four to five feet tall, with a short trunk that emerges with age, the fern likes part shade to shade and regular water. I like to plant this fern in a container as the focal plant, with brightly colored heucheras and begonias growing under it. USDA Zones 10-11.

Cyrtomium falcatum

I use Japanese holly fern in tricky shady spots frequented by deer. This low-maintenance evergreen fern grows to two to three feet tall and as wide, and its stiff but glossy fronds resemble holly leaves. Plant this carefree fern under trees, to hide the bottom of foundations, or in containers. Regular water is best but it can take a little less. USDA Zones 6-10.

See also:

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Low Desert Arizona Garden in October

What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in October? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona. 

Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.

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“I’m so glad I live in a world where there are Octobers.”
— L.M. Montgomery

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Living in the low desert of Arizona year-round means intense dry heat in June and July. This is followed by more heat, windstorms, and monsoons in August and September. At the end of the summer, you are ready for the cooler mornings and pleasant (albeit a little warm) days of October.

Certainly, October in the Arizona garden is a busy time. Fortunately, the cooler temperatures are a welcome relief and it’s a pleasure to be outside after the heat of the summer. 

Keep reading for garden inspiration, an October garden checklist, and a list of what vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your Arizona garden in October. 

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Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

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Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in October

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Flowers growing in the low desert Arizona garden in October

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Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in October

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Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in October

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Low desert Arizona garden in October to-do list:

• Plant trees in October in Arizona. Young trees transplant best.
• Adjust watering of established trees to about once every 7 to 21 days. For more guidelines on watering, see Water Use It Wisely. 
• Plant shrubs and flowering perennials in October in Arizona. 
• Prune established flowering perennials back by about a third. Water well after pruning. 
• October is the ideal month to plant many vegetables, herbs, and annual flowers. (See lists below)

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What to plant in the low desert of Arizona in October

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Before planting:

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Vegetables, herbs & fruit to plant in the low desert in October:

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

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Vegetable, herb & fruit seeds to start indoors in October

(Click the link for seed sources.)

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Visual planting guides for vegetables, herbs, fruits, flowers & vines.

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 Flowers to plant in the low desert of Arizona in October

(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)

SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant

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Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in October

(Click the link for seed sources.)

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Seed Box Labels with planting dates for vegetables and flowers

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Reblooming Thanksgiving cactus is easier than you may think and it is possible to encourage them to flower every year.

In this post I’m going to explain just how to do it, with detailed step-by-step instructions.

Getting your Schlumbergera truncata to produce its beautiful blooms in time for the Thanksgiving holiday depends on three main factors: darkness, low temperature, and timing.

Read on to discover how to trigger your Thanksgiving cactus to rebloom and bring a glorious splash of color into your home for the season.

Does Thanksgiving Cactus Rebloom?

Yes, you can stimulate your Thanksgiving (aka November) cactus to rebloom year after year, but it’s important to follow the simple steps I describe below.

They can naturally bloom again in the fall on their own every year, usually sometime in November.

But they’ll often need a little help, especially indoors, and the timing, temperature, and amount of light they receive must be just right.

What Triggers A Thanksgiving Cactus To Bloom?

Schlumbergera truncata needs a brief rest period, or partial dormancy, to produce flower buds. In its natural habitat in southeast Brazil, the cooler nights and shorter days of fall trigger dormancy.

To replicate this environment at home, you must control the temperature and amount of light your plant receives.

I also recommend keeping your Thanksgiving cactus slightly pot-bound, as this will help it bloom more readily.

When Will My Thanksgiving Cactus Bloom Again?

In the ideal environment, your Thanksgiving cactus will bloom again every year, sometime in mid to late November, or around the time of the US holiday.

It’s not uncommon for them to flower a second time in the spring, but it’s usually a much smaller display.

Using my instructions below, you can force your Schlumbergera truncata to rebloom at the perfect time each year, providing a beautiful centerpiece for your Thanksgiving table.

Related Post: How To Care For A Thanksgiving Cactus Plant (Schlumbergera truncata)

How Do I Get My Thanksgiving Cactus To Bloom Again?

To trigger your November cactus to bloom again, you need to replicate the conditions it would encounter in its natural habitat in the fall.

This means you must control the amount of water and light it receives, and make sure the temperature is low enough.

1. Reduce Watering

To show your Thanksgiving cactus that it’s almost time to rest, the first thing to do is reduce the amount of moisture. So starting in late summer or early fall, cut down on the amount of water you give it.

Allow the soil to dry slightly before watering it again, but don’t let it dry out completely.

Use a moisture gauge to help you get the balance just right. A reading in the 2-3 range indicates it’s time to water your plant.

2. Put It In The Dark

Another trigger for reblooming a Thanksgiving cactus is less sunlight, which is normal in the fall. But they will need complete darkness for 12-16 hours each night for 6-8 weeks.

Starting in late September or early October, place your November cactus in a dark room, closet or bathroom overnight.

Alternatively you could cover it with a black out cloth or blanket to completely block out the light. If this darkness is interrupted – even by artificial light – it may prevent buds from forming.

Bring it back out into bright light during the day or uncover it, but avoid exposing it to direct sunlight.

3. Keep It Cool

Cooler temperatures is another important key to getting your Thanksgiving cactus to bloom again.

It should be at least 10°F (-12.2°C) lower at night than during the day. A range of 50-55°F (10-12.8°C) overnight is ideal, although as warm as 60°F (15.6°C) would be fine.

Just be sure that the temperature never drops below 40°F (4.4°C), or this could damage your plant.

The easiest way to do this is to move it outside at night, or place it in a cool room, such as an unfinished basement. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature.

How Long Does It Take Thanksgiving Cactus To Bloom Again?

On average, it takes Schlumbergera truncata anywhere from 6 to 8 weeks to bloom again.

Buds may start to form in as few as 3 weeks, but it can take as long as 8 weeks if the environmental conditions are not quite right.

When To Put Thanksgiving Cactus In The Dark

Put your Thanksgiving cactus in the dark around 6 to 8 weeks before you want it to rebloom.

So, to have flowers in time for the holiday, this means you need to start anytime from late September or early October.

An easy way to figure this out is to count backward 6 to 8 weeks before the fourth Thursday of November.

Why Won’t My Thanksgiving Cactus Flower Again?

There are several things that could stop your November cactus reblooming. Here are the most common causes.

• Too much water – It’s important to reduce the amount of water you give your plant in the fall, and allow it to dry out more between drinks.

• It’s too warm or cold – Your Thanksgiving cactus ideally needs temperatures between 50-55° (10-12.8°C) overnight to make it flower again.

• Not enough darkness – Giving them 12 to 16 hours of darkness each night is essential, and any interruption, even from artificial light sources, can suppress flowering.

• Recently repotted – Schlumbergera truncata will bloom best when slightly pot-bound, so yours may need a year or two to flower again if you repotted it recently.

What To Do Once Your Thanksgiving Cactus Sets Buds

One of the biggest frustrations to reblooming Thanksgiving cactus is when it finally sets buds… and then they quickly start dropping off before they open.

To prevent that from happening, it’s crucial to give it the proper care during flowering. Here are my tips to make the blooms last as long as possible.

• Increase watering – Once it sets buds, start watering more often so that the soil remains consistently moist, but be careful not to overwater.

• Give it bright light – As soon as buds appear, move your Thanksgiving cactus to a bright spot in your home where it can receive plenty of indirect light, and leave it there.

• Protect from extreme temps – Monitor the temperature to ensure that it’s neither too hot or too cold. A range of 60-70°F (15.6-21.1°C) is ideal to promote better, longer-lasting blooms.

• Do not repot it – They flower best when slightly pot-bound. But if you feel yours needs repotting, wait until the spring after it’s done blooming.

• Protect from drafts – Place your plant in a spot away from heat vents, windows, or other drafts, otherwise it may begin to drop buds or flowers.

FAQs

Below you’ll find my answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about reblooming Thanksgiving cactus. If you don’t see yours listed, please ask in the comments.

Does Thanksgiving cactus need darkness to bloom?

Yes, a Thanksgiving cactus needs uninterrupted darkness for 12-16 hours each night for 6-8 weeks to bloom again. Starting in late September or early October, put it in a dark place like a bathroom or closet, or use a blanket or black out cloth to totally block out all light sources.

How many years will a Thanksgiving cactus rebloom?

Under the right conditions, a Thanksgiving cactus will rebloom every year for as long as it lives. And the good news is that the Schlumbergera truncata has an incredibly long life span, lasting anywhere from 40 to 100 years.

How many times can a Thanksgiving cactus rebloom?

A Thanksgiving cactus typically blooms again every year in November (hence its holiday-related name). It is possible for it to rebloom in spring, but it’s usually a much smaller display, and this can be a sign that the timing of its cool, dark period was wrong.

When do I force my cactus for Thanksgiving flowers?

You should force your cactus for Thanksgiving flowers starting in late summer or early fall by reducing watering. Then give it complete darkness overnight for about 6-8 weeks before the holiday.

If you want to learn all there is to know about maintaining healthy indoor plants, then you need my Houseplant Care eBook. It will show you everything you need to know about how to keep every plant in your home thriving. Download your copy now!

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Step By Step Instructions