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  • Tips for Growing Lemongrass Indoors | Gardener’s Path

    Tips for Growing Lemongrass Indoors | Gardener’s Path

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    Lemongrass is a versatile herb cherished for its refreshing citrusy scent. Its aroma is akin to a zesty lemon with delicate hints of floral and earthy undertones.

    Apart from its use in cooking, this herb is used in herbal remedies for its medicinal properties and the essential oil is used to add fragrance to cosmetics.

    A close up vertical image of a large lemongrass plant growing outdoors in the garden. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.A close up vertical image of a large lemongrass plant growing outdoors in the garden. To the center and bottom of the frame is green and white printed text.

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    When people speak of lemongrass they are usually referring to one of two Cymbopogon species, C. citratus (West Indian) and C. flexuosus (East Indian). C. citratus is the species most commonly used in cooking.

    With both species being tropical, you may wonder if you can grow lemongrass indoors. The answer is, absolutely! And what’s even better is that you can grow this herb year-round under the right conditions.

    In our guide to growing lemongrass, we discuss how to cultivate this herb in your garden. In this article, we’ll talk about how to keep your plant thriving indoors.

    This is what we’ll cover:

    Lemongrass 101

    Lemongrass is a tall, tender perennial grass originally from India and the tropical regions of Asia, now cultivated worldwide.

    This plant has elongated, slender foliage that typically reaches a height of three to five feet, with leaves that have a grayish-green hue.

    A vertical image of a lemongrass plant growing in a pot set on the ground indoors on a tiled floor.A vertical image of a lemongrass plant growing in a pot set on the ground indoors on a tiled floor.

    In cooking, the part that is typically used is the lower sections of the stalks, specifically the tender white and light green parts.

    While lemongrass is technically a tender perennial, it is commonly grown as an annual in cooler climates. It flourishes as a perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 8 to 11.

    Indoors, the plants prefer a minimum of six hours of bright sunlight from a sunny window or through the use of supplemental light sources – such as cool white fluorescent or LED lamps for 12 to 16 hours a day.

    Lemongrass grows in a wide range of soil types but prefers moist soil with good drainage. A pH of between 6.5 to 7.0 is ideal, but anything between 5.0 and 8.4 will be tolerated.

    The plants will tolerate temperatures ranging from 50 to 91°F but ideally require temperatures between 77 and 85°F.

    Getting Started

    Let’s look at what you need to get started growing your own lemongrass indoors.

    Choosing a Container

    I have some great news to share. This plant is very easy to grow in containers!

    A close up horizontal image of human hands from the right of the frame planting a rooted lemongrass cutting into a large terra cotta pot.A close up horizontal image of human hands from the right of the frame planting a rooted lemongrass cutting into a large terra cotta pot.

    If you are reusing a container, it’s important to ensure it is thoroughly cleaned and sanitized to prevent the potential spread of unwanted pathogens.

    Begin by washing the container with soapy water, and then prepare a solution of one part bleach and nine parts water, creating a 10 percent solution, and use this to wipe out the inside of the pot.

    You’ll need a pot that’s at least 12 inches in diameter to allow room for the plant to grow and mature. Make sure that it’s got adequate drainage holes in the bottom, and you’ll need a saucer to go underneath it to catch the water.

    Keep in mind that you can use smaller containers of six to eight inches in diameter and depth, but as the plant matures, you’ll need to give it space to spread out.

    Soil

    Lemongrass needs fertile, well-drained soil. You can use a commercial potting mix that offers equal parts of peat moss, perlite, and potting soil.

    A close up of a bag of Organic Potting Mix isolated on a white background.A close up of a bag of Organic Potting Mix isolated on a white background.

    Perfect Plants Potting Mix

    If you are in need of a recommendation, Perfect Plants sells an eight-quart bag of organic potting mix that provides a blend of coconut coir, mycorrhizae, organic worm castings, perlite, sphagnum peat moss, and composted pine bark.

    This provides the ideal potting medium for your lemongrass.

    Propagation Tips

    Lemongrass can be propagated from seed, by division, via cuttings, or from nursery starts. Let’s take a brief look at each method:

    From Seed

    To start your seeds, you can either choose to use small pots or a seed tray and then transplant the seedlings, or you can sow directly into your permanent container.

    A close up horizontal image of a human hand holding a handful of potting soil scooped out of a white pot.A close up horizontal image of a human hand holding a handful of potting soil scooped out of a white pot.

    If you are starting with seed trays, sow two seeds on the surface of the soil in each cell and gently press them into the soil.

    If you’re sowing seeds directly into your permanent container, sow seeds six inches apart as you’ll thin them later. Keep in mind that you need one plant in a 12-inch container.

    Be careful not to sow the seeds too deep as they need light to germinate.

    Place your seed tray or container in a spot that has bright, indirect light and temperatures of about 75°F. The soil needs to be kept warm, so if necessary, you can use a heat mat.

    Keep the soil evenly moist, but not waterlogged and be careful not to dislodge the seeds when watering.

    Expect germination in seven to 21 days.

    As your seedlings mature, thin them out, leaving one healthy plant per seed cell or in your permanent container.

    After about four to six weeks, the seedlings should have a few true leaves and be at a size where they can be handled and transplanted without damaging their roots.

    At this point, if you used small pots or seed starting trays, you can transplant them into their permanent container homes.

    A close up square image of lemongrass growing in the garden. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.A close up square image of lemongrass growing in the garden. To the bottom right of the frame is a white circular logo with text.

    Lemongrass Seeds

    If you need some lemongrass seeds, you can find packets of C. citratus in a variety of sizes available at True Leaf Market.

    From Cuttings

    If you have an existing lemongrass plant, you may be interested in propagating from cuttings – and the process is relatively simple.

    Begin by cutting a healthy stalk about an inch above the soil level, ensuring the base remains in the ground for regrowth.

    A close up horizontal image of lemongrass cuttings growing in a pot indoors.A close up horizontal image of lemongrass cuttings growing in a pot indoors.

    The upper portion of the stalk should be cut off, leaving around three to four inches of the bottom section of the stem.

    In case you don’t have access to a mature plant, you can find stalks available in your local grocery store or Asian market. By choosing ones that have at least three to four inches of the lower section intact, you can root cuttings from these.

    After you have your cuttings, place them in a glass of water with the bottom inch of the stem submerged.

    Be sure to change the water daily to keep it fresh. You’ll start to see roots developing within about a week, and after two to three weeks, these roots will be robust enough for you to transplant into your permanent container.

    By Division

    If you already have a mature plant, you can divide it and pot up the divisions to grow indoors.

    A close up horizontal image of a gardener dividing a lemongrass plant for repotting, on a rainy day.A close up horizontal image of a gardener dividing a lemongrass plant for repotting, on a rainy day.

    To divide, you’ll need to gently separate some stalks from the main clump. One method is to firmly grasp a stalk and pull it until it separates from the rest.

    If the roots are tightly entangled, you may opt to use a knife to carefully cut through them, ensuring that each divided section retains some roots for replanting.

    Another approach is to dig up or unpot the whole plant and then separate the stalks using your hands or a knife. It’s important that each division contains at least one stalk with intact roots.

    Once you’ve completed the separation, plant the divisions in your desired container.

    Nursery Starts or Seedlings

    The easiest way to get started is to purchase nursery starts from a garden center.

    Begin by selecting a suitable container as discussed above, and filling it with your chosen potting mix, making sure to leave approximately an inch of space from the top to accommodate watering.

    It’s good practice to pre-water the young plants a few hours before transplanting, which can help minimize the stress they experience during the process.

    Carefully extract the plant from its original container, paying special attention not to disturb the root system.

    If you encounter tightly bound roots, consider using a knife to gently score the root ball, encouraging the roots to spread out and establish themselves comfortably in their new surroundings.

    Next, create an appropriately sized planting hole in the potting mix of the prepared container. This hole should be slightly larger than the root ball of the seedling.

    Place the seedling or nursery start into the hole at the same depth it was growing previously. Then, fill the hole with a potting mix and gently compact it around the root ball to eliminate any trapped air.

    After transplanting, provide the lemongrass with a thorough watering to help it settle into its new environment.

    Finally, position the container in its intended location, ensuring that it receives the required amount of light.

    Growing Lemongrass Indoors

    Selecting the right location is key to ensuring this herb grows and thrives.

    You can position your pot near a window with a southern, southwestern, or eastern exposure to guarantee the plant soaks up a generous amount of sunlight.

    A close up vertical image of a hand holding a bunch of freshly harvested lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) stalks.A close up vertical image of a hand holding a bunch of freshly harvested lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) stalks.

    Placing it on a sunny windowsill is an excellent way to maximize the natural light available. Alternatively, consider using a plant stand or elevate it on a plant shelf to provide the light it craves.

    For those passionate about cooking with fresh, zesty herbs, somewhere in the kitchen is a convenient location. It grants easy access to the fragrant leaves and stalks whenever your culinary endeavors require that special touch.

    If you are fortunate enough to have a sunroom or glass-enclosed space, that would be a perfect spot for your lemongrass.

    Water Needs

    As stated earlier, lemongrass prefers consistently moist but not waterlogged soil. To achieve this balance, wait until the top inch of the soil feels dry to the touch before watering.

    When it’s time to water, apply water at the base of the plant rather than overhead, as keeping the foliage dry helps prevent potential pest and disease issues. Be mindful not to overwater.

    After watering, be sure to empty any excess water that has collected in the saucer. Allowing the saucer to accumulate standing water can lead to overwatering and root rot.

    The goal is to maintain the soil’s moisture level similar to that of a well-wrung-out sponge.

    Fertilizing

    Like other grasses, lemongrass plants require a lot of nitrogen during the growing season.

    Fertilizing container-grown lemongrass with a half-strength solution of a balanced, liquid fertilizer on a weekly basis during the growing season can do the job.

    In addition to regular fertilization, you can also add a layer of compost or worm castings to the soil’s surface every few weeks.

    This helps ensure the plants receive a steady supply of essential nutrients.

    Jack’s Classic Balanced Fertilizer

    Jack’s Classic all purpose 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer is an ideal choice and it’s available at Amazon.

    Pests and Disease

    This plant is a hardy crop that is resistant to most pests and diseases when grown in suitable conditions.

    In fact, the essential oil derived from this herb is sometimes incorporated into mixtures aimed at deterring insects. But if there are any chances this herb will have a run in with a pest indoors, it will be likely be with spider mites.

    These pests have a piercing feeding method, extracting plant cell contents, which leads to the appearance of small yellow or white speckles on the foliage.

    To address this issue, you can use an insecticidal soap, or dislodge the pests by spraying the plant forcefully with water. You’ll want to move your plant outdoors or do this in the bathtub.

    You can learn more about dealing with spider mites in our guide.

    Leaf blight is a potential disease you may encounter, caused by various fungi. If you notice reddish-brown spots forming on the tips and edges of the leaves, you should remove the affected foliage.

    Harvesting and Preserving

    Lemongrass can be harvested at any time, once the stalks have reached a quarter to half an inch in diameter. To harvest, cut the stems at the base, leaving some of the plant for regrowth.

    A close up vertical image of a hand from the left of the frame holding a large bunch of freshly harvested lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus).A close up vertical image of a hand from the left of the frame holding a large bunch of freshly harvested lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus).

    Keep the “one-third rule” in mind, which means avoid harvesting more than one-third of the plant at once to support ongoing growth.

    Both the stalks and the leaves can be used for cooking. The stalks are quite hard, so they are usually mashed or cut into three- to five-inch sections and used in sauces to provide flavor, then removed before serving.

    Stalks can also be crushed and placed in the bottom of foil wrappings with meat or vegetables. Once cooked the tender interior core can be sliced and used in a variety of dishes. The leaves may be used to flavor teas, soups and sauces.

    A close up horizontal image of a wooden scoop with dried sprigs of lemongrass on a concrete surface.A close up horizontal image of a wooden scoop with dried sprigs of lemongrass on a concrete surface.

    Dry leaves in the sun or oven and use them like bay leaves in soups and teas. Lemongrass can also be frozen for later use.

    Year-Round Lemongrass

    By following these steps and guidelines, you can enjoy the refreshing essence of lemongrass throughout the year. In this guide, we’ve covered everything you need to know!

    A close up horizontal image of freshly harvested lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) stalks set on a wooden surface.A close up horizontal image of freshly harvested lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) stalks set on a wooden surface.

    We discussed how to get started, explored different propagation methods, and learned how to nurture the plants indoors.

    Finally, we talked about how to harvest and preserve this delightful herb. Armed with this knowledge, you’re ready to grow and enjoy lemongrass year-round.

    Have you grown or are you interested in growing lemongrass indoors? If so, please feel free to share your comments with us below.

    If you would like to learn more about how to grow herbs, you might be interested in reading these articles next:

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    Alonza Simmons

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  • Understanding your new plant hardiness zone

    Understanding your new plant hardiness zone

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    The USDA just updated the plant hardiness zone map for the first time since 2012 and there’s a very good chance you may find yourself in a different zone than you thought you were gardening in. So there’s only one thing to do: Panic.

    I’m kidding, of course, but I wouldn’t blame you if you got a little caught up in all the chatter about the zone adjustment. Let’s be honest, it’s autumn and gardeners need something to talk about. 

    If your zone changed (and you should consult a zoomed in map in addition to the zip code finder because the map is far more detailed than previous versions and some zip codes will have more than one zone), what does this mean for you? Well other than creating a bit of an identity crisis for some gardeners, it probably means less than you think: The conditions in your garden haven’t changed. (P.S. Canada friends, here’s a link to your map.)

    Let me clarify: They may have changed in the 11 years since the last zone map was released, but they didn’t change this week. So you already know what the conditions in your garden are and have been.

    Here’s the interesting thing: the Agricultural Research System, which is responsible for creating the maps, says the change in zones is more reflective of the increase in data they now have to make the map, rather than significant changes in temperatures, which I was surprised to read. They explain it this way:

    “Climate changes are usually based on trends in overall annual average temperatures recorded over 50-100 years. Because the USDA PHZM represents 30-year averages of what are essentially extreme weather events (the coldest temperature of the year), changes in zones are not reliable evidence of whether there has been global warming.”

    The map is also much more detailed, because it uses GIS mapping technology and many more sources of data. Data from 13,625 stations was used to create the map, which is a significant increase from the last map in 2012, and the finer data points mean that temperature changes in cities and areas near bodies of water are better reflected.

    WHAT IS THE MAP?

    I remember when the last map came out and the reaction from gardeners was much the same: part enthusiasm to grow more plants and part distrust, with references to recent extreme weather events. 

    Both are natural reactions and both are probably wrong when you better understand the data that goes into making the map. The most important thing to understand is that it is based on the AVERAGE annual extreme minimum winter temperature from 1991 to 2020. In 1996, the temperature in Milwaukee, much of which is now considered zone 6a, got down to -26 degrees Fahrenheit (that’s -32 for you sensible Celsius folks). That’s a zone 4a temperature, but that doesn’t make Milwaukee a zone 4a because it is based on AVERAGE minimum temperatures.

    Nothing about the map suggests that you won’t experience dramatic temperature differences from what the lowest average temperature in your zone is. This is a great reason not to change a lot about what you grow in your garden. A handful of years ago I bought Cornus kousa x ‘Venus’. I knew it was a zone 6a plant but I wanted it so badly that I bought it anyway. And it lived for about three years, then just when it started to show signs of its potential, we had a winter cold spell and it was toast. That is still going to happen in gardens, and although I’m not a climate expert, I know enough about what’s happening to suggest that it’s probably more likely to happen than ever as weather events get more dramatic.

    The Plant Hardiness Zone Map isn’t all that useful for people in warmer growing zones, where minimum temperatures are of little concern, but factors like chill hours (the amount of hours in a year below 45 degrees Fahrenheit) do matter. Gardeners in these areas can benefit from using the Sunset Climate Zone map

    NOTHING WILL CHANGE … EXCEPT THIS

    When I told Mr. Much More Patient that the new hardiness zone map showed us a half zone warmer (from 5b to 6a) than we were before, he said “Well that’s it! Rip out all the plants, we need new ones.” He was kidding, of course, and very little will change about what I grow in my garden, and probably what you should grow in yours.

    The difference that will happen is that plants hardy to warmer zones will start showing up at your local garden centers, particularly if a large part of your area “zoned up.” In fact I’m sure that garden centers are salivating at all the new plants they’ll be able to tempt you with, although I suspect that plant warranties are going to be less common. 

    In addition to possibly having access to plants that might not have been sold in your area before, I think gradually gardeners are going to get a little bit bolder in experimenting with a bit of zone pushing. Many of us have been doing it for awhile and this will likely embolden more cautious gardeners. 

    HOW SHOULD GARDENERS RESPOND?

    How should gardeners approach this new zone identity? It’s an interesting question because I’ve been seeing some angry gardeners out there. In fact a whole group of Minnesota gardeners expressed their dismay on Instagram of being moved to a zone 5a, as they have long prided themselves in growing great gardens in an area akin to the tundra. Others are chomping at the bit to pull a Mr. Much More Patient. Here’s my completely unasked for and mostly unqualified advice: If you moved into a new number zone like I did, from a 5 to a 6, take care. Since plant hardiness is often rated by the main zone number rather than the sub zone letter, you could be looking at 10-degree minimum temperature difference, and that’s pretty big. 

    Go ahead and buy those tempting new plants, but site them carefully. Put them in a protected area or a warmer microclimate in your garden. Make sure you’re not fudging the other requirements for the plant in terms of amount of sun and soil conditions. And if they die, don’t go complaining to the garden center that the healthy and robust plant you bought didn’t make it when you planted it in your garden. 

    MY NEW GARDEN ZONE

    I am one of the many gardeners who find themselves in a new zone. My garden went from a zone 5b to a zone 6a, although the zip code finder doesn’t reflect that. I fall into a very skinny strip right along Lake Michigan that extends just a mile or so inland (exactly how far is difficult to judge). I have always been a little bit of a zone pusher (see the ‘Venus’ dogwood story). In some cases that’s worked out well as I’ve had better luck growing perennials on the edge in recent years after losing them in the past (although my gardening practices, particularly leaving perennials stand for winter, have changed and that could account for more success). 

    Sadly I took very few photos of my ‘Venus’ dogwood when I had it, but this one of a flower (technically a bract) just opening is just a hint at it’s potential beauty

    The main lesson that I take away from my previous zone pushing experiences is that I’m much more comfortably trying plants that are hardy only down to zone 6 when they are perennials, or possibly shrubs. More than the cost of the plants (although certainly that is a factor), it’s the time that goes into growing something like a tree or shrub that makes it harder to stomach potentially losing it. 

     

     

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    Erin @ The Impatient Gardener

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  • Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy

    Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy

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    From handy tools to favorite things to wear, here are my current garden gift ideas that will make any gardener happy.

    Gift ideas for gardeners? I’ve got you covered! This list of items is perfect for any gardener, whether just starting or a seasoned pro. From handy tools to favorite things to wear, here are my current garden favorites. I hope you like these gift ideas that will make any gardener happy.


    Something to read

    I picked up this book at a garden shop recently in England. It’s filled with beautiful quotes and thoughts about many of the reasons we love to garden so much. I highly recommend it!


    Something to wear

    Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy (5)Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy (5)

    I love wearing overalls in the garden, but they can be too heavy get hot. That’s why I’m a big fan of these cooling overalls from Dickies. They have lots of pockets, are very comfortable to wear, and even have roll-up legs with snaps. I highly recommend them!


    Something for roselle tea

    Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener HappyGift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy

    Mornings in the garden with a mug of roselle citrus tea is the best way to begin the day. This mug is just the right size – the logo isn’t bad, either. Get my recipe for roselle tea here.


    Something to do

    Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener HappyGift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy

    My gift to myself this year is time to be creative. Before I was a gardener, I was an artist, and this lettering book is the perfect way to doodle and remind myself how fun it is to be creative.


    More Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy (cont.)


    Something to help

    Low desert friends, I finally created the guide to help plan and plant my garden. This planting guide features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.


    Something to use

    Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener HappyGift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy

    This dibber from Growoya is a favorite, for sure. It’s the perfect size for planting anything from seeds to ranunculus corms. Knowing that it’s hand-lathed in Canada from natural yellow cedar with no chemical finish makes it even better!


    Something (else) to wear

    Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener HappyGift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy

    I’ve been wearing Merry People boots since 2020. They are comfortable, keep my feet dry, and bonus… they are cute too! I have them in yellow and black, and I have my eye on some green ones that I hope Santa puts under the tree.


    Looking for more garden gift ideas? Check out my previous gift guides:


    If this post about Gift Ideas That Will Make Any Gardener Happy was helpful, please share it:


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    Angela Judd

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  • Trending on Remodelista: The Calm Before the (Holiday) Storm – Gardenista

    Trending on Remodelista: The Calm Before the (Holiday) Storm – Gardenista

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    Before the whirl of holiday activities officially kicks off next week, we’re taking a moment to savor the quiet, restful moments. Don’t have time to do that? Just meditate on these peaceful images, courtesy of Remodelista’s latest posts. Plus: Holiday Decor 2023: 10 Classic Glass Bauble Ornaments Kitchen of the Week: Downsizing in Denmark—and Creating […]

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  • Chinese Money Plant Propagation How-to

    Chinese Money Plant Propagation How-to

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    Chinese Money Plant Propagation How-to












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    Jessica Walliser

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  • yes, ‘gardening can be murder,’ says marta mcdowell

    yes, ‘gardening can be murder,’ says marta mcdowell

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    I DON’T THINK I’ve read a mystery novel since the “Nancy Drew” books of my long-ago childhood, though I will confess to having watched more than a few who-done-it TV series over the years, most of them from the BBC. But I never noticed how many mystery writers from Edgar Allen Poe to Agatha Christie incorporated elements of the garden into their tales of intrigue.

    Marta McDowell picked up on all the clues in their stories, and many others, and put them together in her own latest book, titled “Gardening Can Be Murder” (affiliate link).

    In each of her many books, “New York Times” bestselling author Marta McDowell digs into the way that plants have influenced some of our most cherished writers, including Beatrix Potter, Emily Dickinson, and Laura Ingalls Wilder. Now she’s focused her latest one on mystery writers, and how they, too, have often drawn influence from the garden and its plants.

    Plus: Enter to win a copy of Marta’s new book by commenting in the box near the bottom of the page.

    Read along as you listen to the Nov. 20, 2023 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

    ‘gardening can be murder,’ with marta mcdowell

     

     

    Margaret Roach: It’s funny, when I first saw the title of your newest book, “Gardening Can Be Murder,” I thought maybe it referred to the way I feel after a long day of spring or fall cleanup at my advancing age.

    Marta McDowell: Well, of course, it means that, too. But yes, and I will say, of all my books, I think this is the first one that Timber has used my exact title, so I really view this as a-

    Margaret: Timber Press, your publisher. That’s funny. So they went with the title.

    Marta: … a small triumph.

    Margaret: Yeah. So I mean, is there any genre that you don’t read? I mean, or maybe I should ask, is your filter for what you do read for something that makes your reading list, determining first if the author or characters in the book have a relationship with plants? Because I mean, you really have gone all through different types of writing, children’s writing, and now, mystery writing, poets. [Laughter.] Amazing.

    Marta: Well, that was kind of accidental, Margaret, because it was total serendipity, I bumped into the fact that Emily Dickinson was a gardener on this kind of really offbeat trip to Amherst, Massachusetts. It was kind of an unintentional trip. And that opened this … It’s like, the light bulb comes on [laughter]. It’s a very cartoon moment. And I always say, Emily Dickinson changed my life, because from then on, it was like, oh, are there other authors who gardened? This is really interesting to me, and maybe there’s a book in it, or at least an article.

    Margaret: Well, and this one seems like … This is one that I never would have thought of, to tie all of these connections. And of course, you make the case in the book, over and over and over again, you give us examples, but I never would’ve thought of it. Yeah, so pretty fascinating.

    Marta: [Laughter.] It might be the fault of WGBH in Boston, because I watched a lot of those mystery series that came on, it was in the ’80s. I remember Gene Shalit introducing them, all the way up to Alan Cumming, and of all the people in between. And an early series was “Brother Cadfael,” which is an Alice Peters … the pen name for Edith Pargeter. She was in the way west of England, very close to the Welsh borders, and she wrote these historical mysteries set in the 12th century in a Benedictine abbey. Talk about piling things on.

    And so, that kind of always stuck with me. It was played by Derek Jacoby, a really good series. And … I don’t know, it was much later on. That doesn’t answer your question; I do read lots of things that don’t have gardening in them. Yes, absolutely [laughter].

    Margaret: O.K., so it’s not a requisite.

    Marta: No, no, no, I’m apparently reading a book by Muriel Spark, called “Memento Mori,” which is very good.

    Margaret: Yeah, so the subhead on the cover of “Gardening Can Be Murder” reads, “How Poisonous Poppies, Sinister Shovels, and Grim Gardens Have Inspired Mystery Writers.” And within, you have these different chapters in the book, sort of grouping things.

    But the garden, as you pointed out, is a good place to hide a body [laughter]. It’s a source of poisons; there’s a lot of sharp tools.

    But again, I never thought of that. But it’s funny, it reminded me of a conversation I had years ago with a scientist at the University of New Mexico, who studies host-parasite evolution, like creatures that parasitize other creatures, and especially this one type of nematode relative, these hairworms, these things called nematomorphs, that parasitize, and then, zombie-fy creatures; they turn other creatures into zombies [laughter]. Yeah, I’m not kidding.

    Marta: We do plant horror, that is really amazing.

    Margaret: Yeah, so they lay their eggs in crickets or beetles or grasshoppers, and turn those into zombies [laughter]. And so, science-fiction writers would approach this scientist to ask him to explain the process so that they could make their science fiction writing more authentic.

    And so, in a way, it reminded me of your story of these mystery writers who wanted to have these accurate portrayals, whether it was of the plants or the processes, or whatever, that inspired them.

    Some of the mystery writers you include in the book don’t just use elements of the garden in the stories that they weave, but they garden themselves. Like I didn’t know that Agatha Christie was a gardener, not just her Miss Marple character, who had plant references; she had plant references, right?

    Marta: Right, so Agatha Christie is one of these authors, you got to love her. If you go to a bookstore today—and I hope all of your listeners have their favorite local indie bookstore that they support—and you look on the shelves in the mystery section, invariably, you’ll see a solid representation of Agatha Christie, who died in the 1970s. I mean, the woman, the author, has legs [laughter]. They keep doing adaptations, there’s a new Kenneth Branagh film that was an adaptation of Agatha Christie. And that’s fabulous, and the fact that she gardened, I think, really added to it for me.

    I knew that she had some education in poisons because of being an apothecary or working for an apothecary during the war. But she also grew up in a home with extensive gardens; her grandmother had a rose garden that she adored. And in later life, Agatha Christie bought a home very close to her childhood home in South Devon. And Greenway appears in some of her books in very vivid descriptions, although it’s not called that. And her husband had a very extensive collection of rhododendron, so Greenway, which is now a National Trust property, on my list of places to go visit, because I’m sure there’s a great gift shop, right?

    Margaret: Right. She loved camellias, too, correct?

    Marta: Yes, camellias and rhododendron. So I think when they acquired the property, they already had quite a few plants, but they really extended that.

    Margaret: And in some of her books, the Miss Marple character drew inferences from horticultural, so to speak, or botanical things as well.

    Marta: Absolutely, so Miss Marple can sling around botanical Latin, and she has very definite feelings about plants, which most gardeners do. It’s like, she liked flowers, not vegetables; I like them both. And I think maybe Christie can be credited with sort of setting that standard for the village murder mystery that includes a cottage garden, and there are a lot of them. I think that the grayer I get, the more Miss Marple appeals to me.

    Margaret: Well, Nathaniel Hawthorne—and there’s that last name, Hawthorne, which is botanical—I mean, he had great gardens, as well, yes?

    Marta: Yes. Yeah, those people that hung out in Concord, Massachusetts, I think there must’ve been something about the water there. It’s kind of like the Bloomsbury group. And Henry David Thoreau dug Nathaniel Hawthorne’s garden for him [laughter].

    Margaret: Oh my goodness, I had no idea.

    Marta: Yeah. Yeah, really extraordinary, yeah, so Thoreau was Emerson’s gardener, too. You go like, this is really strange and wonderful. Anyway, Hawthorne wrote this wonderful story … And he is not your classic detective fiction writer, but mysterious, gothic kind of books. And one of his stories is called “Rappaccini’s Daughter.”

    It’s set in Padua, and Padua has the world’s oldest continually operating, I should say, botanic garden, at least in Europe. And so, he sets the garden in Padua, I think for that reason, because the owner of this garden is an apothecary, and it’s a very mysterious garden and a very potent garden. Not to give it away, but it’s sort of like, if you wanted to look at poison gardens, definitely have “Rappaccini’s Daughter” on your list.

    Margaret: And in his real life, isn’t Tanglewood, the music center in the Berkshires of Massachusetts, was that a home of his, Tanglewood? Did I make that up?

    Marta: He had a home called Tanglewood, and I think it’s near the Berkshires.

    Margaret: O.K., so it’s in that area, it’s just not that actual property, but it’s near there somewhere. But he was from there.

    Marta: It is, and it’s a little, almost cabin, you can imagine, yeah, Hawthorne-

    Margaret: Oh, interesting.

    Marta: … and Sophia … Nathaniel and Sophia out there. And he was trying to write. He wrote these great letters to Melville. Again, they all knew one another.

    Margaret: Yeah, fantastic. I loved coming upon Rex Stout in the book, and that might be a less familiar name to some. He was in Connecticut, and he was the author of this series of mysteries, the “Nero Wolfe” mysteries.

    But I’m a lifelong fan of his sister, Ruth Stout, which, she was like the original lasagna gardener; one of her books was called “The No-Work Garden,” ha ha, as if there is. But she kind of used everything as mulch and no-till, and I mean, really fascinating. And I think this was back in the ’50s or something.

    So I knew about him because I knew about her, not because I knew his mysteries. But in real life, I think he was obsessed with houseplants, and outdoors, he had quite an iris collection or something, yes?

    Marta: Yes, he loved tall, bearded irises, and he was that quintessential garden geek who kept really detailed records on every iris variety, and he would rate them and track them from year to year. I wonder if somebody has his garden notebooks, because I think they’d be absolutely fascinating to look through. As far as I know, the property that he gardened on in Danbury is no longer there. The few pictures I found of it looked really, really interesting. I couldn’t travel for this book to do research, because we were having this little thing called a global pandemic.

    Margaret: Oh, I remember that, yeah.

    Marta: Oh, yeah, and so, I did this whole book from the comfort of my home, looking out my office window at my garden and my neighbor’s garden, and making many, many trips to the library, because God bless librarians, they were in there, I guess in isolation, bagging our books that they got from through the system, and leaving them in little brown paper bags in the back hallway of our library.

    Margaret: [Laughter.] Oh, my. So I mean, the “Nero Wolfe” series, I think those mysteries have, over decades, had a couple, or even maybe a few incarnations as TV series, I think including … One version starred Timothy Hutton, but I think Timothy Hutton wasn’t Nero Wolfe, the detective, but his sidekick.

    Marta: Right, he was Archie … Yeah, he was Archie Goodwin, right? So again, from really early on, there’s been this kind of, there’s the detective, and then, there’s the sidekick, a la Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson. It helps with the narration and the action to have more than one person. So yes, Archie Goodwin, in fact, William Shatner very briefly played Archie Goodwin, as well. Of course, I think of him as Captain Kirk.

    Margaret: Of course, of course. “Beam me up, Scotty.” But yeah, and I think that Nero Wolfe, the fictional detective, was like an orchid fancier, so there was a lot of botanical stuff going on in there, which is interesting.

    Marta: Yeah, and beyond fancier, orchids were his life. He was a private sleuth with very high fees so that he could afford his orchid habit and his New York City brownstone. If you’re on West 35th Street, and I forget the actual number, but on the brownstone at the address that the fictional Nero Wolfe lived at, there is a plaque for Nero Wolfe.

    Margaret: That’s funny.

    Marta: But lots of orchids.

    Margaret: I want to talk about some of those poison plants, because that is always fun [laughter]. And you have a number of them in the book, including a couple that you and I both love, we both love opium poppies, the breadseed or opium poppy. And so, that’s one that I think is commonly grown, and is in many seed catalogs, and so forth. But that sort of has also been featured as an element in some of these mysteries over time, yes?

    Marta: Yes, opium, both as a sedative, it appears in various Sherlock Holmes stories, and as a poison, certainly in Cadfael, you have poisons with poppies. And opium poppies are potent, and like many potent plants, they have been pharmaceuticals, beneficial pharmaceuticals, less beneficial pharmaceuticals, and poison, all rolled up into one. And then, also, opium also lent that kind of smoky, opium-den character to many Victorian novels and historic mysteries now.

    Margaret: And not to mention that it lent seed to a poppy-seed bagel, which is my favorite version of bagel.

    Marta: You bet. You bet. In the book, I tell the story, a true story, I went for a job interview, I was getting a job at the time for a county park system. My county has some lovely gardens, and you had to go for this really extensive physical to get this job. And the nurse practitioner who was doing the physical … Oh, I guess it was, “Go pee in a cup.” And she said, have you had a poppy seed bagel over the past two days? And I went, “What?” I said, “No, why?” And she said, “Well, because your drug test will show up positive.” I was like, “Really?”

    Margaret: Right, right, right. But I can’t imagine not having them in the garden, just the way they self-sow around, and they’re just so delicate in flower. And then, the pods are so almost indestructible, they’re so strong, and they open up like little shakers. I just love them, I just love them in all their moments.

    Marta: Yes, and the pods are all in little containers all over my mantle piece, because-

    Margaret: Me, too. Here, too.

    Marta: … I love the way they look. It’s a great pass along plant, so if you have friends, you can give them seeds, and you’ll still have plenty. You can ask them for their varieties. Just don’t go chewing on the pods, right?

    Margaret: No, probably not. One that I don’t grow, and I’m sure you don’t grow either, but it has sort of become a wild thing in many areas of the country, I think it was originally European, is poison hemlock [Conium maculatum], which is not a hemlock tree or a relative. It’s a relative of the carrot, I think, yes?

    Marta: Yes. And I do love umbels; I love flowers with that shape, like a classic Queen Anne’s lace kind of shape. But I grow, maybe by now, too much Zizia, which is a native plant that really loves my garden, and has started to romp around with some level of aggression. But it is a beautiful plant, and blooms for a long time, and then, when it’s done blooming, even now, because we’re right on the verge of everything dying down to the ground, but even now, it still looks really nice in my garden, so the foliage holds up, as well. But you don’t want poison hemlock in your garden.

    Margaret: No.

    Marta: And even if you grow poison plants, like today, I was relocating foxglove seedlings out of my vegetable boxes, because I have these raised-bed boxes where I grow salad greens and herbs and some cherry tomatoes and things. I was relocating them out of there, because sometimes, someone else in my household will go out to pick the salad greens, and that someone else isn’t a gardener, and I don’t want them accidentally getting foxglove leaves mixed up with the arugula [laughter].

    Margaret: Exactly, exactly. So that’s another one, and you write about castor bean [Ricinus communis], which has ricin, the poison ricin, in certain parts of the plant, I guess, and that’s quite a fierce one. I loved that you noted in the book that Harry Truman’s daughter, who was a mystery writer, incorporated castor bean into one of her plots, and so did various other writers. I didn’t even know that little anecdote.

    Marta: Yes, yes, Margaret Truman wrote a “Capital Crimes” series. I think she had some help with a ghost writer. But they’re fun to read, and obviously, of the period. And yes, she absolutely uses that as the murder weapon in one of her stories.

    Margaret: Yeah, it’s a great plant, I mean, it’s a majestic, kind of crazy plant. I was talking to a writer, essayist and poet Ross Gay, recently, on the occasion of his newest book. And he’s a keen gardener, and he has it kind of self-sowing around his place, he and his partner do, and they have to pull some of them out, because I mean, the leaves are gargantuan, also, and it almost can create shade, it’s such a big … Yeah, yeah, it almost looks tropical.

    Marta: And in one season. Yeah, in one season. That’s the astounding thing. So I mean, when you get the seeds, you go like, O.K., well, this is going to be some kind of plant, because the seeds are really big. And I see it in community gardens, which always surprises me a bit, because most people are growing edibles in community gardens, and it always makes me wonder if they know. I see in the garden centers, always right around October, they’ll start bringing out the monkshood, and you go, that’s really toxic.

    Margaret: The Aconitum, yes. But they’re so beautiful, I mean, in the fall, to have that sort of … Well, the beautiful dark purple. I mean, they come in different colors, I guess, different shades, but they’re gorgeous, the aconitums.

    Marta: They are absolutely gorgeous, and yet, I do think maybe they ought to have some little warning. There’s a nonprofit website called poison.org, and on it, it has: This really happened. And you do see plant poisons showing up in accidental and deliberate poisonings.

    Margaret: Yeah. Well, Agatha Christie used the monkshood, I think, in at least one of her plot twists, yeah?

    Marta: Yep, absolutely, and even one of the Brother Cadfael’s is called “Monk’s Hood,” for obvious reasons, yes.

    Margaret: Oh, boy, I’ve stepped right into that one. There’s a couple of others… I mean, Taxus, the yews, you give an anecdote in the book that your mother reminded you as a child not to eat the little red berries, right?

    Marta: That’s right, although, actually, the red part is not toxic, the aril, but the seed inside is, so she was right. I mean, I wasn’t likely to go chewing on the yew bushes in front of the house, but she knew that.

    Margaret: No, but it can be attractive. It’s gleaming and colorful, and stands out, so a child might go and pick one and think it’s like a strawberry or a raspberry or something.

    Marta: You bet. You bet.

    Margaret: So do you read mysteries? Are you a mystery reader? I’m not. As I said in the beginning, I do watch series.

    Marta: Yeah, I’m a really eclectic reader, so I often reach for a mystery as a kind of brain candy. I’ll read fiction and nonfiction, but then, I’ll feel like reading a murder mystery; they’re usually fun. I don’t like stalker mysteries, I’m not crazy about these really intense thrillers, although I read them sometimes. Ruth Ware, I’m always at the edge of my seat, and I never guess the ending. But you know everybody’s different, and some people love those.

    And this was just a lot of fun to put together, I found lots of different mystery writers that I didn’t know. And it was strangely crowdsourced, because every time I would mention to a group, at the time, I was doing them all on Zoom, but I’d mentioned to a group, oh, I’m working on this book about crime fiction and horticultural themes, someone would get in touch with me and go, well, here are a dozen that I really enjoy [laughter].

    Margaret: Oh my goodness, O.K. I see you got people going.

    Marta: Yes, so there are people who just read them nonstop. My sister reads every series and every book in the series.

    Margaret: Well, Marta McDowell, the author, most recently, of “Gardening Can Be Murder,” I’m always glad to talk to you and get some reading suggestions. But this is a funny one, this surprised me. Like I said, I thought it was about how I feel after a hard day of gardening [laughter].

    Marta: Yeah, a friend of mine did the illustration, Yolanda Fundora, and I think they’re fantastic.

    Margaret: Yeah, they’re adorable, so we’ll put some of those with the transcript. And I’ll talk to you again soon, I hope. Thanks.

    more with marta mcdowell

    All our previous conversations, including Emily Dickinson and more

    (Illustrations from the book are by Yolanda Fundora. Author photo by Sarma Ozols.)

    enter to win a copy of ‘gardening can be murder’

    I’LL BUY A COPY of “Gardening Can Be Murder” for one lucky reader. All you have to do to enter is answer this question in the comments box below:

    Any mysteries on the bedside table over there, or poison plants in the garden? Tell us more.

    No answer, or feeling shy? Just say something like “count me in” and I will, but a reply is even better. I’ll select a random winner after entries close Tuesday November 28, 2023 at midnight. Good luck to all.

    (Disclosure: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

    prefer the podcast version of the show?

    MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 14th year in March 2023. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Nov. 20, 2023 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify or Stitcher (and browse my archive of podcasts here).

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  • How to Germinate any Seed – Growing Seed Requirements

    How to Germinate any Seed – Growing Seed Requirements

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    A seed is an embryo plant and contains virtually all the materials and energy to start off a new plant. To get the most from one’s seeds it is needful to understand a little about their needs so that just the right conditions can be given for successful growth.

    One of the most usual causes of failures with seed is sowing too deeply; a seed has only enough food within itself for a limited period of growth and a tiny seed sown too deeply soon expends that energy and dies before it can reach the surface. Our seed guide, therefore, states the optimum depth at which each type of seed should be sown. Another common cause is watering. Seeds need a supply of moisture and air in the soil around them. Keeping the soil too wet drives out the air and the seed quickly rots, whereas insufficient water causes the tender seedling to dry out and die. We can thoroughly recommend the Polythene bag method (No. 11) which helps to overcome this problem. Watering of containers of very small seeds should always be done from below, allowing the water to creep up until the surface glistens.

    Most seeds will of course only germinate between certain temperatures. Too low and the seed takes up water but cannot germinate and therefore rots, too high and growth within the seed is prevented. Fortunately, most seeds are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures but it is wise to try to maintain a steady, not fluctuating temperature, at around the figure we have recommended in our guide. Once several of the seeds start to germinate the temperatures can be reduced by about 5 degrees F and ventilation and light should be given.

    Some perennials and tree and shrub seeds can be very slow and erratic in germination. This may sometimes be due to seed dormancy, a condition that prevents the seed from germinating even when it is perfectly healthy and all conditions for germination are at optimum. The natural method is to sow the seeds out of doors somewhere where they will be sheltered from extremes of climate, predators, etc. and leave them until they emerge, which maybe two or three seasons later. Dormancy, however, can be broken artificially and our section Nos. 12-16 deals with this.

    This page maybe hard to read on a mobile platform. Please use a desktop or print this PDF.

    HINTS ON SEED RAISING

    1. Strelitzia and similar

    Do not chip or mark the seed coat at all but merely remove the orange tuft and soak for up to 2 hours, or even overnight. Sow the seeds in moist sand, pressing them into the sand until only a small part of the black seed is visible and grow in a temperature of 75 degrees F in the dark and ensure that the sand always remains moist. From 7 days onwards inspect the container once a week and as soon as any bulges, roots or shoots are seen remove the germinated seed and pot up in a compost of half peat and half sand. We find that Strelitzias often produce a root without a shoot and we have also found that the young shoots and roots are susceptible to fungal attack. Therefore as soon as possible pot up and provide light and fresh air. Germination can start within 7 days and carry on for 6 months or more.

    2. Palms; Banana; Coffee; Mini-Orange; Tea; Cycads and similar

    All these items can take several months to germinate and are very erratic in germination. Soak for at least 2 hours in warm water before sowing. (After soaking the parchment shell on the Coffee seeds should be removed with the fingernail). Sow in Levington or Arthur Bowers (compost and place in the dark in a temperature of 75 degrees F, keeping the compost moist at all times, but not wet. Inspect regularly and occasionally dig around in the compost with a penknife. We normally sow our seeds just below the surface of the soil and we have found that sometimes they make a very vigorous root without producing a shoot at all. If you find a seed with root then it should be excavated and potted up into a 3-4” pot immediately when it will produce a shoot. Cycads prefer to be potted up into a compost of half sand and half peat. The Tea requires the above treatment but at a lower temperature of 60-65 degrees F.

    3. Clivia and similar

    Sow these seeds immediately on receipt in Levington or a peat-based compost, covering with a 1/2 ” compost. Water and place in the dark in a temperature of 65-70’F. Germination should occur within 3 weeks.

    4. Ferns (Garden and Indoor)

    The fern spore needs a fine film of moisture over which to swim in order to complete the process of reproduction, therefore a good peat compost, such as Levington, ought to be used pressed down very firmly and which is a lot more moist than one would normally have it in order to provide the moisture film. The spore (seed) should be sprinkled close together on the surface of the soil and not covered and the container should be covered with a piece of glass and placed in diffused light, but not darkness. It is essential to ensure that the compost remains moist at all times. Germination which commences with the appearance of a film of green jelly over the soil can take anything from 1 -5 months.

    You may wish to try germinating the fern spore on blotting paper which is placed in a saucer and kept moist at all times. A transparent cover is inverted over the saucer and the whole lot placed in a well lit but not sunny position. You can actually see the fern spores developing and when you can see small plantlets appearing along the jelly the blotting paper should be lifted and placed on the surface of a container of Levington compost and watered well. It should then be covered with a transparent cover which can remain there until the plants are quite large.

    5. Bromeliads; Cineraria; Calceolaria; Insect Eaters (Drosera, Nepenthes, Sarracenias); Living Stones; Meconopsis; Rubber Plants; Saintpaulia; Streptocarpus; Tibouchina; Xmas Cactus; Begonia and similar

    These seeds should be sown on the surface of the compost and not covered. The compost should be quite moist and we would recommend that you cover the seed container with a piece of glass or clear plastic and leave in a temperature of approximately 65 degrees F in a position which receives diffused light. Once some of the seeds have germinated air should be admitted gradually otherwise the seedlings may damp off.

    Alternatively, the seeds can be sown on to moist blotting paper or kitchen towel placed in a saucer. Cover with a transparent cover and place on a windowsill which receives plenty of light, but not direct sunlight. Keep the blotting paper wet at all times and when the tiny seedlings are large enough to handle prick out into small pots. If the INSECT EATERS are sown using the first method described the compost requires to be both moist yet free draining. Use only pure peat with no fertilizers added to which sphagnum moss should be added if available.

    6. Alstroemeria; Bonsai; Clematis; Hardy Cyclamen; Eucalyptus; Flower Lawn; Helleborus; Hosta; Primula; Iris and similar.

    Sowing OCTOBER-FEBRUARY. Sow the seeds in John Innes seed compost, covering them with a thin layer of compost. After watering place the seed container outside against a North wall or in a cold frame, making sure they are protected against mice, and leave them there until the spring. The compost should be kept moist but not wet at all times, and if the seed containers are out in the open then some shelter has to be given against excessive rain. In the spring bring the seed containers into the greenhouse, or indoors on to a well lit but not sunny windowsill and keep the compost moist. This should trigger off germination. If the seeds do not germinate in the spring keep them in cool moist conditions throughout the summer. As each seed germinates we would recommend that you transplant it almost immediately into its own pot.

    Sowing MARCH-SEPTEMBER. Sow in John Innes seed compost, or something similar, and place each container in a polythene bag and put into the refrigerator (not the freezer compartment) for 2-3 weeks. After this time place the containers outside in a cold frame or plunge them up to the rims in a shady part of the garden border and cover with glass or clear plastic. Some of the seeds may germinate during the spring and summer and these should be transplanted when large enough to handle. The remainder of the seeds may lay dormant until next spring.

    Germination of some items, particularly Alstroemeria, Clematis, Hardy Cyclamen and Christmas Rose (Helleborus) may take 18 months or more.

    An alternative method for growing PRIMULAS is to sow in a peat based compost which has already been moistened and do not cover the seed. Cover the container with a piece of glass or plastic and grow in the dark in a steady temperature of 60F. This is quite adequate and over 65’F germination will be inhibited. When the seeds start to germinate sprinkle a thin layer of fine compost over them and when the seed leaves come through this, move the box to a well-lit place with a temperature of 55’F. At no time should the seed box be in full sun.

    Hardy Cyclamen have been found to germinate best in total darkness at around 55-60’F. We have had good results with the following method. Place the seeds between two pieces of damp filter paper, Kleenex tissue, etc., then put into a polythene bag and place this into an opaque container in order to exclude all light. Inspect the seeds after a month and remove and prick out as the seedlings appear, returning the ungerminated seeds to total darkness.

    7. Freesia

    Soak the seeds for 24 hours and sow in Levington compost, or something similar, and place in a temperature of 50-60’F. Germination can sometimes be slow.

    8. Nertera Granadensis (Bead Plant)

    We recently found that this subject requires a well-drained compost which is completely free from fertilizer (e.g. moss peat and sand in equal parts). Sow by barely covering the seed and place a sheet of glass over the container, and leave in a temperature of 65-75’F. Turn the glass daily as excessive condensation can kill the young seedlings. On germination, the seedlings look very thin and spindly and the glass should be removed almost immediately and the seed container moved to a well lit but not sunny position. Prick out as soon as possible into a compost of 50% pure peat and 50% sand. Keep moist and shaded until established.

    9. Cactus and similar

    Make very shallow furrows in compost with a plant label and sow in these. No seed should be completely buried. Water from beneath and cover with glass and brown paper or black Polythene. Place in a dark position in a temperature of 70-75F and keep moist. On germinating move to a light but not sunny windowsill, give plenty of ventilation and water from beneath. Pot up when they begin to overcrowd. During the first winter only keep warm and do not allow to get too dry. If it is not possible to grow warm then keep them drier. Subsequent years keep relatively dry through the winter. Can be planted outside, plunged to the rim, all summer if required.

    10. Lilies

    Successful germination of seeds of some lilies requires a period of warmth followed by one of cold.

    Method 1. Put seeds in a screw-top jar in moist (not wet) peat and keep at 70-75F for 3-4 months. Inspect regularly, any normal seedlings (that is having root and seedling leaves) should be pricked out as they germinate. Any seeds which produce roots but not seedling leaves, sow in a pan and keep at 32-40’F for 3 months. Seed leaves and normal growth will follow.

    Method 2. Sow in a pan in summer (warm spell); put in a frame (or outside covered by a piece of glass) for the winter. Seeds will germinate in spring. Soil Humus rich (peat or leafmould) lime free and very free drainage (use 1/3 grit). Never overwater, keep bulbs almost dry from November to March.

    11. For more delicate seeds

    A method which has proved useful for not only small delicate seeds but for a wide range of types is the Polythene bag method.

    The seeds should be sown on the surface of the moist compost, covered to their recommended depth if necessary and the container is then placed inside a Polythene bag after which the end is sealed with an elastic band. The bag should ‘fog-up’ with condensation within 24 hours and if this does not occur place the container almost up to its rim in moisture until the soil surface glistens, then replace in the bag and reseal. The bag is not removed and normally no more watering is required until the seeds germinate. However, it is wise, if left for a long period to check the compost occasionally.

    The seed container, bag etc. should be placed in a well-lit place with a steady temperature. As soon as a fair number of the seedlings emerge to remove the polythene bag, lower the temperature a few degrees and provide plenty of light, but not bright sunshine, to ensure that sturdy seedlings develop. It is also helpful to spray the seedlings occasionally for the first 14 days.

    SPECIAL TREATMENT

    12. Hard Seeds-Chipping

    Some seeds, e.g. Sweet peas, lpomaea etc., have hard seed coats which prevent moisture being absorbed by the seed. All that is needed is for the outer surface to be scratched or abraided to allow water to pass through. This can be achieved by chipping the seed with a sharp knife at a part furthest away from the ‘eye’, by rubbing lightly with sandpaper or with very small seed pricking carefully once with a needle etc.

    Some of our geranium seeds have already been treated in this way when you receive them.

    13. Hard Seeds-Soaking

    Soaking is beneficial in two ways; it can soften a hard seed coat and also leach out any chemical inhibitors in the seed which may prevent germination. 24 hours in water which starts off hand hot is usually sufficient. If soaking for longer the water should be changed daily. Seeds of some species (e.g. Cytisus, Caragana, Clianthus) swell up when they are soaked. If some seeds of a batch do swell within 24 hours they should be planted immediately and the remainder pricked gently with a pin and returned to soak. As each seed swells it should be removed and sown before it has time to dry out.

    14. Stratification (cold treatment)

    Some seeds need a period of moisture and cold after harvest before they will germinate-usually this is necessary to either allow the embryo to mature or to break dormancy. This period can be artificially stimulated by placing the moistened seed in a refrigerator for a certain period of time (usually 3- 5 weeks at around 41 F). With tiny seeds, it is best to sow them on moistened compost, seal the container in a Polythene bag and leave everything in the refrigerator for the recommended period. However, larger seeds can be mixed with 2-3 times their volume of damp peat, placed directly into a Polythene bag which is sealed and placed in the refrigerator. Look at seeds from time to time. The seeds must be moist whilst being pre-chilled, but it doesn’t usually benefit them to be actually in water or at temperatures below freezing.

    Light also seems to be beneficial after prechilling and so pre-chilled seeds should have only the lightest covering of compost over them if any is required, and the seed trays etc. should be in the light and not covered with brown paper etc.

    Information on Seed Stratification

    15. Double Dormancy

    Some seeds have a combination of dormancy’s and each one has to be broken in turn and in the right sequence before germination can take place; for example, some Lilies, Tree paeonies, Taxus need a three month warm period (68-86’F) during which the root develops and then a three month chilling to break dormancy of the shoots, before the seedling actually emerges. Trillium needs a three-month chill followed by three months of warmth and then a further three-month chill before it will germinate.

    16. Outdoor treatment

    The above-mentioned methods (12-15) accelerate the germination process and help to prevent seeds being lost due to external hazards (mice, disease, etc.) but outdoor sowing is just as effective albeit longer. The seeds are best sown in containers of free draining compost and placed in a cold frame or plunged up to their rim outdoors in a shaded part of the garden, preferably on the north side of the house avoiding cold drying winds and strong sun.

    Recent tests show that much of the beneficial effects of pre-chilling are lost if the seed is not exposed to light immediately afterward. We, therefore, recommend sowing the seeds very close to the surface of the soil and covering the container with a sheet of glass. An alternative method especially with larger seeds is to sow the seed in a well-prepared ground, cover with a jam jar and press this down well into the soil so that the seeds are enclosed and safe from predators, drying out etc.

    We would also recommend you consult No. 6 which contains further practical suggestions regarding the special treatment of seeds.

    Germination days.

    The usual time period in which a particular variety will germinate given optimum conditions.

    Light/Dark

    Seeds needing light should have no newspaper, brown paper etc. placed over the trays. Seeds needing dark for germination should be placed in total darkness.

    Slow and irregular germination

    This is the column with the “X”. Not all seeds will show at once
    -prick out each seedling as it becomes large enough to handle and don’t discard the container until well over the time suggested.

    Temperature

    A steady temperature between these limits is recommended-fluctuating temperatures can damage a seedling in its critical early stages.

    Compost

    Most reputable seed composts will be quite adequate and we have indicated where a loam-based type such as John Innes or a peat-based type such as Levington would be slightly more suitable. On no account should potting composts, which have additional fertilizers, be used.

    Sowing Depth

    If in doubt sow shallowly, but always ensure that the compost surface is damp.
    J.C. =Just cover the seed with compost or sharp sand. S=Sow on the surface and do not cover at all with compost.

    Sowing in situ

    Where recommended under the heading of comments, these seeds can be sown out of doors. Moist soil worked down to a fine tilth is essential. For hardy annuals and perennials, sowing can be carried out from late winter onwards as soon as the ground is workable and has warmed up and half-hardy annuals after all danger of frost is passed.

    SUGGESTED SOWING TIMES

    Many seeds, particularly in the house plant range, can be sown indoors at almost any season of the year. Others, for example, bedding plants, have a much-limited sowing season because the plants need to be at just the right stage when planted out. We, therefore, offer the following general guidelines to sowing times. Your actual time of sowing will depend a great deal upon the steady temperature you can maintain in your greenhouse/propagator, soil, local conditions etc.

    HA              Hardy Annual                    Late winter/early spring. 
    
    HHA             Half Hardy Annual               Early/ late spring. Normally 4-8 weeks before planting outside.         
    
    GBb             Greenhouse Bulb 
    
    GP              Greenhouse Perennial            Anytime of year. 
    
    GSh             Greenhouse Shrub 
    
    GT              Greenhouse Tree 
    
    HP              Hardy Perennial                 Late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn. 
    
    HHP             Half Hardy Perennial            Late winter/spring. 
    
    HBb             Hardy Bulb                      Late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn
    
    HHBB            Half Hardy Bulb                 Late winter/spring.
    
    HB              Hardy Biennal                   Late spring/early summer. 
    
    HHB             Half Hardy Biennal              Summer/autumn. 
    
    HSh             Hardy Shrub                     Winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.
    
    HHSh            Half Hardy Shrub                Any time of year. 
    
    HT              Hardy Tree                      Winter/late spring and late summer/autumn. 
    
    HHT             Half Hardy Tree                 Any time of year.
    
    

    Any plant which is to be planted outside (HA, HHA, HHP, HHSh.) should be well hardened off beforehand. This is best achieved by placing the plants outside in a cold frame for around a week before planting out. The frame can be left uncovered during mild weather but always replaced at night. Alternatively, if no frame is available to move the boxes outside to a sheltered spot during the day and bring indoors at night.

    The below file can be downloaded on this link:  Seed Germination List


    Trees and shrubs are farther down the list.
    
    The "ˆ" stands for slow and irregular germination.
    
    
    
    Variety        Type     Germ Days          G Temp  Media        Sow Depth 	Comments
    
    
    
    Abarema        GP        7-56               70-75  Peaty           1/4" 	Scarify seed by rubbing between 2 pieces of emery paper.
    
    Abelmoschus    HHA       15-30              75-80  Well drained    1/16" 	Soak 1 hour in lukewarm water before sowing.
    
    Abutilon       HHSh      21-30          ˆ   70-80  Peaty           JC
    
    Acacia         HHSh      21                 70-80  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 13. Soak in warm water for 4 hours.
    
    Acaena         HP        30-100         ˆ   50-60  Well drained    1/4"
    
    Acanthus       HP        21-25              50-55  Peaty           1/4".
    
    Achillea       HP        30-100   L     ˆ   60-65  Well drained    S		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Achimenes      GP        21-30              65-75  Well drained    S		See No. 5. Seed is very small.
    
    Acnistus       HHSh      21-42              55-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Aconitum       HP        5-270    L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/16"	See Nos. 6 & 14. Place in a fridge for 6 weeks.
    
    Actaea         HP        30-365         ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6-8 weeks).
    
    Actinidia      HP        60-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    1/8"		Male & Female flowers are borne on separate plants.
    
    Adansonia      GSh       21-365         ˆ   70-80  Peaty           1/16"	Soak in hand hot water. See No. 13.
    
    Adenanthera    GSh       30-90              70-75  Well drained    JC		See No. 13. Soak in hot water.
    
    Adenium        GSh       7-14     L         65-70  Very well draineJC
    
    Adenophora     HP        30-90          ˆ   50-55  Well drained    S
    
    Adonis         HA, HP    30-120         ˆ   60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Aechmia        GP        7-90     L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Aethionema     HP        30-90          ˆ   60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Agapanthus     HHP       30-90              60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Agastache      HP        30-90              55     Well drained    1/16 "
    
    Agave          GP        30-90    L     ˆ   55     Well drained    S
    
    Ageratum       HHA       10-14    L         70-75  Well drained    S
    
    Agrostemma     HA        14-21              55-65  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Alchemilla     HP        21-30              60-70  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Allium         HBb       30-365   L         50     Well drained    JC		See No. 14. Place in fridge for 4 weeks.
    
    Aloe           GP        30-180   L         70     Well drained    S
    
    Alonsoa        HHA       14-21              60     Well drained    1/16"	Cover seed with silver sand.
    
    Alpina         GP        30-90              70-75  Peaty           1/8"
    
    Alstroemeria   HP        30-365         ˆ   65-70  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 13. Soak in warm water. Sow singly in pcrts.
    
    Alyssum        HA        7-14     L         55-75  Peaty           S		Annuals can be sown in situ.
    
    Amaranthus     HHA       10-15              70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Amaryllis      HHBb      21-70          ˆ   65-75  Peaty           1/16"  	Do not dry off in the first year after sowing.
    
    Ammi           HHA       7-21               55-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Ammobium       HHA       10-15              60     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Anacampseros   GP        30-90    L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Anacyclus      HP        30-60    L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks.)
    
    Anagallis      HHA       30-42              50-65  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Anaphalis      HP        30-60              55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Anchusa        HA, HP    7-30               70     Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ                 
    
    Androsace      HP        30-365         ˆ   50-55  Well drained    S		See No. 16.        
    
    Anemone        HP        28-180         ˆ   65-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 6.
    
    Anemonopsis    HP        30-18O   L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    S		Sow in lime free compost.
    
    Anigozanthus   GP        30-90    L         60-65  Peaty           S		See No. 5.  
    
    Anoda          HHA       14-21              55-65  Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Antennaria     HP        30-69              55-60  Well drained    JC		Just cover with silver sand.
    
    Anthemis       HP        0-14               70     Well drained    S
    
    Anthericum     HP        30-90              50     Well drained    1/8"
    
    Anthriscus     HP, HB    14-21              55-65  Well drained    1/4"		Usually sown in situ
    
    Anthyllis      HP        30-60              50     Well drained    1/8"		See No. 13. Soak in warm water overnight.
    
    Antigonon      GP        21-30              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Antirrhinum    HHA       10-21    L         65-75  Peaty           S
    
    Aphyllanthes   HP        21-56          ˆ   55-60  Peaty           JC
    
    Aquilegia      HP        30-90    L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    S		See No. 6 or 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks). Keep temperature below 70°F
    
    Arabis         HP        20-25    L         70     Well drained    S		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Arachis        GA        7-21               70-75  Peaty           1/4"		Sow, then place inside a polythene bag until germination.
    
    Araujia        HHSh      90-180         ˆ   75-80  Well drained    JC
    
    Arctotis       HHA       21-35              60-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Ardisia        GSh       90-180             75     Well drained    1/4"
    
    Arenaria       HP        15-30              55-65  Well drained    S
    
    Argemone       HA        14                 65-70  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Arisaema       HP        30-180   L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Aristea        GP        30-90          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Aristolochia   GSh       30-90          ˆ   75-85  Peaty           S		See No. 13. (Soak 48 hours in hand hot water).
    
    Armeria        HP        14-21              60-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 13. (6-8 hours in hand hot water).
    
    Arnica         HP        25-30              55     Well drained    JC		Likes an acid sandy soil.
    
    Artemisia      HP        30-60    L         60-65  Well drained    S
    
    Arum           HP        30-l80         ˆ   55-65  Peaty           1/8"
    
    Aruncus        HP        30-90              55-65  Peaty           S
    
    Asarina        HHP       14-21    L         65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Asarum         HP        7-30               60-65  Well drained    1/16"	Sow as soon as possible.
    
    Asclepias      GP, HP    30-90          ˆ   50-75  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 14. (Pre-chil for 3-4 weeks).
    
    Asparagus      GP        21-30              60-70  Peaty           1/4"		Soak then chip. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Asperula       HA        30-42    L         50     Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ or No. 14. (Pre-chill 2 weeks).
    
    Asphodeline    HP        30             ˆ   70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Aster          HHA       10-14              65-70  Well drained    1/16"	Pre-chill perennial asters, see No. 14. (Pre-chill 2 weeks).
    
    Astilbe        HP        40-80              65     Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Astrantia      HP        30-180   L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    S		See   No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Atriplex       HA        9-21               50-55  Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ
    
    Atropa         HP        21-30              50     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Aubrieta       HP        14-21    L         65-75  Well drained    S		See No. 5.         
    
    
    
    Baileya        HHP       7-30               60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Balsamorrhiza  HP        14-42              60-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Banana (Musa)  GP        7-180          ˆ   70-80  Peaty           1/2²		See No. 2.         
    
    Banksia        HHSh      30-90          ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.                 
    
    Baptisia       HP        7-10               70-75  Well drained    1/4"		Soak then chip. See Nos. 13 and 12.
    
    Basil          HHA       7-10               60-70  Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown situ   
    
    Bauhinia       GSh       21-42              75-85  Peaty           1/4"		See No. 13. (Soak 48 hours in hand hot water).
    
    Beaufortia     HHSh      14-60    L         55-65  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Beaumontia     GSh       7-30               70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Begonia        HHP       15-60    L     ˆ   70-80  Peaty           S		See No. 5. Fibrous 70-75°F, tuberous 65-70°F.
    
    Belamcanda     HP        14-60          ˆ   60-86  Well drained			See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 7 days).
    
    Bellis         HB        10-15    L         70     Peaty           1/16"	Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Beloperone     GP        30-180   L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Bergenia       HP        30-180         ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    Berlandiera    HHP       30-90    L         60-70  Well drained    S
    
    Beta           HB        14-21              55-65  Well drained    1/4"		Usually sown in situ.
    
    Bignonia       GP        30-90          ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S
    
    Billadiera     HHP       30-60              55     Sandy peat      JC
    
    Billbergia     HHP       7-90     L         60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Biscutella     HHA       14-21              55-65  Well drained    JC		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Bixa           GT        30-180         ˆ   75-80  Peaty
    
    Blandfordia    HHP       30-90+         ˆ   60-70  Sandy peat      JC
    
    Bletilla       HHP       30-365   L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Boea           GP        20-60    L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Boronia        GSh       30-60    L         65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Brachycombe    HHA       10-18              70     Well drained    JC
    
    Brimeura       HBb       30-60          ˆ   60-65  Sandy peat      JC
    
    Bromeliads     GP        7-90     L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Browellia      GP        14-21    L         75     Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Brunfelsia     GP        30-90          ˆ   70-80  Well drained    JC
    
    Bulbinella     H/HHBb    30-90          ˆ   55     Well drained    JC
    
    Bupthalmum     HP        14-30    L         70-75  Well drained    S
    
    
    
    Cacti          GP        5-180    L     ˆ   75-80  Peaty           S		See No. 9.         
    
    Caesalonia     HhSh      14-120         ˆ   75-80  Well drained    1/4"		See No. 13. (Soak 48 hours in hand hot water).
    
    Calandrinia    HHA       5-14               55-60  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Calceolaria    GB        14-21    L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		Outdoor varieties keep temperature below 60°F.
    
    Calendula      HA        10-14    D         70     Any             1/4"		Can be sown in situ, or autumn for winter greenhouse flowers.
    
    Calibanus      GP        30-120   L     ˆ   70-80  Peaty           S
    
    Calliopsis     HA        14                 60-65  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Callirhoe      HP        30-180+  L     ˆ   50     Well drained    S		Can be sown in situ or a cold frame.
    
    Callistemon    HHSh      14-60    L         55-65  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Caltha         HP        30-90          ˆ   55-60  Peaty           1/16"	Keep compost slighty moist.
    
    Camassia       HBb       30-180         ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Campanula      HP, HB    14-28    L         60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Campsis        HHSh      30-90          ˆ   70-75  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 months).
    
    Canarina       GP        30-180         ˆ   65-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Candytuft      HA, HP    10-15              68-85  Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in stiu. Perennials (60-65°F) can be slow and irregular.
    
    Canna          HHP       21-60          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/4"		See Nos 12 & 13, chip and soak for 48 hours.
    
    Capsicum       GA        21-30    L         70-75  Peaty           S                 
    
    Cardiocrinum   HBb       90-730         ˆ   50     Peaty           1/16"	See No. 6.         
    
    Cardiospermum  HHA       21-30              65-70  Well drained    1/2"
    
    Carica         GSh       30-120         ˆ   75     Peaty           1/8"		See No. 13. (Soak for 40 hours).
    
    Carlina        HP        30-60    L         55-60  Well drained    S
    
    Carthamus      HA        12-18              55-65  Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in stiu
    
    Cassia         GSh       7-90               70-75  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 12.        
    
    Casuarina      GT        30-90              65     Well drained    JC
    
    Catananche     HP        21-25              65-75  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Catharanthus   GA/HHA    15-20    D         70-75  Peaty           1/8"
    
    Celosia        GA        10-15    L         70-75  Well drained    JC     	Do not sow too early - likes warm bouyant conditions.
    
    Centaurea      HP, HA    7-14     D         60-70  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Centranthus    HP        21-30              60-70  Well drained    JC		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Cephalaria     HP        21-60              55-65  Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Cephalilitrum  HHA       14-21              65-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Cerastium      HP        5-10               60     Well  drained   1/16"
    
    Ceratotheca    HHA       8-14               70-75  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Cerinthe       HHA       7-14               60-65  Well  drained   1/16"	Can be sown in situ
    
    Cheiranthus    HB        14-21              65-75  Well  drained   1/8"		Sow in a reserve bed, prick out 6" apart. Plant out in Oct.
    
    Chelidonium    HP        30-365         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 16.        
    
    Chelone        HP        14-42              55-65  Well drained    1/16"	Needs good drainage.
    
    Chiastophyllum HP        30-60              55     Well drained    S		Seeds very small.  
    
    Chionodoxa     HBb       30-90          ˆ   55     Well drained    1/4"
    
    Chlorogalum    HBb       30-90          ˆ   55-80  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 6.         
    
    Chrysanthemum  HA, HP    10-18              60-70  Peaty           1/8"		Annuals can be sown in situ. HP's reduce temperature at night.
    
    Cimicifuga     HP        30-365         ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Cineraria      GP        14-21    L     ˆ   70     Well drained    JC
    
    Cirrhopetalum  GP        30-180   L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Cirsium        HP        15-18              70-75  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Cissus         GSh       30-180         ˆ   70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Cladanthus     HA        30-35              70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Clarkia        HA        21                   -    Well drained    1/4"		Best sown in situ, as sturdier plants are produced.
    
    Claytonia      HA        14-21              65-70  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Clematis       HP        30-270+        ˆ   70-75  Well drained    1/8"		See Nos. 6 & 16.   
    
    Cleome         HHA       10+14    L         70-75  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    Clerodendrum   GSh       21-60          ˆ   70-75  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Clianthus      GSh       14-42              65-70  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 13.        
    
    Clintonia      HP        30-90              55-60  Sandy peat      JC		Keep compost always just moist.
    
    Clitoria       GP        15-20              70-75  Well drained    1/16"	See Nos. 12 and 13. (Chip and soak for 24 hours).
    
    Clivia         GP        7-21               80-85  Peaty           1/4"		Sow immediately. See No. 3.
    
    Cobaea         HHA       21-30              70-75  Well drained    1/16"	Stick the seed vertically into the compost.
    
    Coccoloba      GSh       10-21              65-70  Well drained    1/4"		See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
    
    Codonopsis     HP        7-42     L         60-70  Slighty acid    S
    
    Coffea         GSh       42-56    L         75     Peaty           S		See No. 2. (Soak for 48 hours).                 
    
    Colchicum      HBb       30-365         ˆ   55-65  Peaty           1/8"		See No. 16.        
    
    Coleus         HHP       10-20    L         65-75  Peaty           S		Indoors, likes to be warm with plenty of bright light.
    
    Collinsia      HHA       14-21                -    Well drained    1/4"		Best sown in situ, thin out to 6'.
    
    Collomia       HA        21                   -    Well drained    1/8"		Best sown in situ, thin out to 6".
    
    Columnea       GP        30-120   L     ˆ   72-75  Peaty           S
    
    Commelina      HHP       30-37              70     Well drained    1/8"
    
    Conophytum     GP        10-40    L     ˆ   75-80  Well drained    S
    
    Convallaria    HP        60-365+  L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 16.        
    
    Convolvulus    HA        5-14               70-80  Well drained    1/8"		Chip (12) or soak (13) the seeds.
    
    Cordyline      GP        30-90              75-80  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 13. (Soak for 10 minutes in hand hot water).
    
    Coreopsis      HP        20-25    L         55-70  Well drained    S		Annuals can be sown In situ
    
    Correa         HHSh      30-90          ˆ   65-72  Well drained    JC
    
    Cortaderia     HP        14-21    L         60-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Corydalis      HP        30-60    L         50-60  Well drained    S
    
    Cosmos         HHA       5-10               68-86  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Cotula         HHA       14-42              50     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Crambe         HP        21-42                -    Well drained    1/2"		Best sown In situ. 
    
    Craspedia      HHA       14-30              70-75  Peaty           1/8"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Crepis         HA        5-14               70-80  Wed drained     JC
    
    Crocosmia      HP        30-90              55-60  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Crocus         HBb       30-180         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Crossandra     GP        25-30    L     ˆ   75-80  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Crotalaria     GSh       21-30              65-75  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours)
    
    Cryptostegia   GCI       30-90          ˆ   65-75  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours)
    
    Cunonia        GSh       30-60              70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Cuphea         HHP       8-10     L         70     Peaty           S
    
    Cyananthus     HP        14-60    L         60-65  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Cycad          GP        30-90          ˆ   70-75  Well drained			Half bury the seed lengthwise.
    
    Cyclamen       GP        30-60    D     ˆ   55-60  Peaty           1/4"		Keep moist and in total darkness.
    
    Cyclamen       HP        30-18O   D     ˆ   55-60  Peaty           1/4"		See No. 6.         
    
    Cynara         HP        14-30              50-55  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown In situ.
    
    Cynoglossum    HA        5-10     D         65-75  Peaty           1/4"
    
    Cyperus        HHP       25-30              70-75  Peaty           JC		Keep the compost slighty moist.
    
    Cyphomandra    GP        20-25              70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Cyphostemma    GP        30-60          ˆ   70     Well drained    1/4"		See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours).
    
    Cypripedium    HP        30-365   L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5. Very difficuft outside the laboratory.
    
    Cyrtanthus     GP        30-90          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           S		Keep the compost silghty moisty
    
    
    
    Dahlia         HHA       5-20               65-70  Peaty           1/16"  	Do not let the compost dry out.
    
    Darlingtonia   HP        30-90          ˆ   75-80  Peaty           S      	Do not let the compost dry out. See also No. 5.
    
    Datura         HHSH      21-42              55-65  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Delonix        GT        30-90          ˆ   75-85  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
    
    Delosperma     HHP       10-40    L         75     Well drained    S
    
    Delphinium     HP        14-28    D     ˆ   50-55  Peaty           1/16"	High temps. cause dormancy. See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).                 
    
    Desmodium      GA        30-90              75-80  well drained    1/16"
    
    Dianella       H/HHP     30-90              65-70  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Dianthus       HHA, HP   14-21              60-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Diascia        HHA       14-30              60     Well drained    JC
    
    Dicentra       HP        30-180   L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
    
    Dichorisandra  GP        7-60               70-75  Peaty           JC
    
    Dictamnus      HP        30-180         ˆ   55-60  Well drained			See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-8 weeks).
    
    Didymocarpus   Gp        14-56    L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Dierama        HP        30-180   L     ˆ   60-65  Well drained    S		See No. 5.         
    
    Dietes         HHP       30-90          ˆ   50-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Digitalis      HP, HB    15-20    L         60-65  Peaty           S		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Dimorphotheca  HHA       10-15    L         60-70  Peaty           JC
    
    Dionaea        GP        30-90    L     ˆ   75-80  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Dioon          GP        30-90          ˆ   70-75  1/2 peat, 1/2 sand 1/4"	See No. 2.         
    
    Dioscorea      HP        21-36              70-75  Peaty           1/8"
    
    Diplarrhena    HP        30-90              55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Diplolaena     GSh       30-150   L     ˆ   7-8O   Peaty           JC
    
    Dipsacus       HB        4-30                 -    Well drained    1/4"		Best sown in situ  
    
    Disporum       HP        30-180+  L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
    
    Dizygotheca    HHSh      20-30    L         70     Peaty           S
    
    Dodecatheon    HP        90-365             60-70  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 6.         
    
    Dolichos       HHA       14-30              70     Well drained    1/16"	See No. 13.        
    
    Doronicum      HP        15-20    L         70     Well drained    S		Reduce soil tempeature at night
    
    Doryanthes     HHP       30-60              65     Peaty           JC		See No. 13. (Soak for 3 hours).
    
    Draba          HP        30-90          ˆ   55     Well drained    JC		See Nos. 6 and 14. 
    
    Dracaena       GSh       30-180   L     ˆ   75-85  Well drained    S		Keep the compost slightly moist
    
    Dracunculus    HP        30-180         ˆ   55-65  Peaty           JC		Keep the compost slightly moist
    
    Drosera        GP        30-90    L         55-65  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Dryas          HP        50-180         ˆ   60-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 6.         
    
    Duchesnia      HP        30-90    L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Duranta        GSh       30-60              70-75  Peaty           JC
    
    
    
    Eccremocarpus  HP        30-60          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC		Cover the seed slightly with silver sand
    
    Echeveria      HHP       21-90    L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Echinacea      HP        10-21    L         70-75  Peaty           1/8"		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Echinops       HP        15-60              65-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Echium         HA        7-14               70     Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Edraianthus    HP        30-60    L         55-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Egg Plant      GA        10-21          ˆ   70     Peaty           1/8"		Keep the compost slightly moist
    
    Emilia         HHA       8-15               70     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Epilobium      HP        14-30              50-60  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Episcia        GP        25-40    L         70-80  Peaty           S		Seeds dust like. See also No. 5.
    
    Eranthis       HBb       30-365         ˆ   60-68  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 6 and 14.
    
    Eremurus       HP        30-365   L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC		See No. 16         
    
    Erica          GP        30-120   L     ˆ   60-70  Acid Peat       S		See No. 5.         
    
    Erigeron       HP        15-20              55     Well drained    S
    
    Erinus         HP        20-25              65-75  Well drained    S
    
    Eriobotrya     HHSh      30-180         ˆ   50     Well drained    JC		See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).                   
    
    Eriophyllum    HP        14-42               -     Well drained    1/8"		Best sown outdoors and transplanted.
    
    Eryngium       HP        5-90     L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    S		See No. 6.         
    
    Erysium        HP        14-30                -    Well drained    1/4"		Sow in situ.       
    
    Erythrina      HHSh      10-15              70-75  Peaty           1/8"		See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
    
    Erythronium    HBb       30-365         ˆ   50-60  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 6.         
    
    Eschscholtzia  HA        14-21              60-65  Well drained    1/4"		Resents transplanting, best sown in situ.
    
    Eucalyptus     HHSh, HT  14-90          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		Sow seed and chaff together. See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Eucnide        HHA       21-30              60-70  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Eucomis        GBb       20-25              70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Eupatorium     HP        30-90          ˆ   55     Well drained    JC
    
    Euphorbia      HHA,HP,GSh10-15          ˆ   70-80  Well drained    1/4"		Pre chill HPs for 7 days and then soak for 2 hours.Sow in lime free compost(Ericaceous).      
    
    Eustoma        HHP       10-21    L         68-77  Well drained    S
    
    Exacum         GA        15-20    L         70-75  Peaty           S		Seed dust like. See No. 5.
    
    
    
    Fascicularia   HHP       30-120   L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Fatsia         HHSH      15-20              70-75  Peaty           1/4"		Keep the compost slightly moist.
    
    Faucaria       GP        14-30          ˆ   60     Well drained    JC		Just cover with sharp sand.
    
    Feijoa         HHSH      21-42              55-60  Peaty           1/16"	Rinse seeds 3 times before sowing.
    
    Felicia Amelloides HHP   30                 55-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Place in fridge for 3 weeks).
    
    Felicia BergerianaHHA    30                 70     Well drained    JC
    
    Ferns          HP, GP    30-180   L         65     Peaty           S		See No. 4.         
    
    Ficus          GSh       15-90    L     ˆ   70-80  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Filipendula    HP        30-90              55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Flower Lawn    HP        30-180   L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    S		See Nos. 6 or 16. 
    
    F.Cabbage & Kale HB      14-21              70-75  Peaty           1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Foeniculum     HP        10-14    D         65     Well drained    1/8"		Dislikes transplanting, sow in situ.
    
    Francoa        HHP       14-30    L     ˆ   50-55  Peaty           S		See No. 6.         
    
    Freesia        HHBB      25-30          ˆ   65-75  Peaty           1/4"		See No. 7.         
    
    Fritillaria    HBb       330-540        ˆ   55-M   Peaty           1/16"	See No. 6.         
    
    Fuchsia        GP        21-90    L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5. Soak in rain water for 3-4 days. Keep compost moist.
    
    
    
    Gaillardia     HP, HHA   15-20    L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Galega         HP        14-60              -      Well drained    1/4"		Best sown outdoors and transplanted.
    
    Galtonia       HBb       15-20          ˆ   70     Peaty           1/16"
    
    Gardenia       GSh       25-30              70-75  Peaty           1/8"		Use a lime free compost (Ericaceous).
    
    Gaura          HHA       14-30              65-75  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Gazania        HHA       8-21     D         60-65  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Gentiana       HP        14-180   D     ˆ   70-75  Lime free       JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 months).
    
    Gentianopsis   HA        21-30    L          -     Well drained    S		Sow outdoors and thin. Sensitive to root disturbance.
    
    Geranium       HHP       3-21           ˆ   70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Geranium       HP        30-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    JC		See No. 6.         
    
    Gerbera        GP        15-25    L         70-75  Peaty           JC		Sow sharp end down, don't cover completly.
    
    Gesneria       GP        14-21    L         70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Geum           HP        21-28+         ˆ   65-70  Peaty           1/16"	Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Gilia          HA        17                  -     Well drained    1/8"		Sow outdoors and thin out.
    
    Glaucidium     HP        30-90          ˆ   50-55  Peaty           JC
    
    Glaucium       HA        14-21    D         60-65  Well drained    JC		Transplant carefully, best sown In situ.
    
    Globularia     HP        10-30    L         55     Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chil for 3 weeks).
    
    Gloriosa       HHBb      30                 70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Gloxinia       GP        15-30    L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Gnaphalium     HP        14-21    L         60-70  Well drained    S
    
    Godetia        HA        7-14               60-65  Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Gomphrena      HHA       6-8      L         70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Gourds         HHA       15-29              80     Peaty           1/4"		Can also treat as No. 5.
    
    Grass Tree     HHP       30-180   L     ˆ   65     Peaty           S		See No. 4.         
    
    Grasses        HP, HHA   10-90    L     ˆ   60-75  Peaty           S
    
    Grevillea      HHSh      20-25    L         75-80  Well drained    S		See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
    
    Gunnera        HP        14-60          ˆ   70-80  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Guzmania       GP        7-90     L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Gypsophila     hA, HP    10-15          ˆ   70     Peaty           JC
    
    
    
    Hacquetia      HP        30-180         ˆ   55     Well drained    JC		See No. 16.        
    
    Haemanthus     GBb       7-42               60-65  Peaty           JC
    
    Haplopappus    HP        21-30              60-70  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Hardenbergia   HHP       30-90          ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
    
    Harpephyllum   GP        10-30              70-75  Peaty           1/4"		See No. 13.  (Soak for 24 hours).
    
    Haworthia      HHP       21-60    L         60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Hedychium      HHP       20-25              70-75  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 13.  (Soak for 2 hours).
    
    Hedysarum      HP        14-42              55-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Helenium       HP        7-10               70     Peaty           1/16"	Can be sown in situ. Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Helianthemum   HP        15-20              70-75  Well drained    S		See No. 5.         
    
    Helianthus     HA        10-14              70-85  Peaty           1/4"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Helichrysum    HHA       7-10     L         65-75  Well drained    S
    
    Heliophila     HHA       14-21              60-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Heliopsis      HP        10-15              70     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Heliotropium   HHP       14-42          ˆ   65-75  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Helipterum     HA        14-20              65-75  Peaty           1/16"	Can be sown in situ
    
    Helleborous    HP        30-545         ˆ   60-65  Well drained			See No. 6. May need to go through two winters outdoors.
    
    Hemerocallis   HP        21-49              60-70  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
    
    Hemiphora      GP        30-120         ˆ   70-75  Peaty           JC
    
    Hepatica       HP        30-360   L         50-55  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Heracleum      HP        30-90               -     Well drained    1/4"		Sow in situ. See No. 6.
    
    Herniaria      HP        10-12              70     Well drained    JC
    
    Hesperis       HB        20-25    L         70-85  Peaty           S		Can be sown in situ. Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Heuchera       HP        10-60    L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Hibiscus       HHP, GA   15-30          ˆ   75-80  Peaty           1/16"	Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 & 13.
    
    Hieracium      HP        21-30              50-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Hippeastrum    HHBB      30-42              75     Pemy            1/8"
    
    Hollyhock      HA, HP    10-12    L         60-70  Peaty           S		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Holmskioldia   GSh       30-90          ˆ   60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Hosta          HP        30-90          ˆ   50     Peaty           1/16"	Keep compost slighty moist.                  
    
    Humulus        HP        25-30              70-75  Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Hunnemannia    HHA       15-20              70-75  Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ.  Makes a nice pot plant.
    
    Hutchutinsia   HP        14-30               -     Well drained    1/4"		Sow in situ.       
    
    Hyoscymus      HB, HA    14-42               -     Well drained    1/8"		Sow in situ.       
    
    Hypericum      HSh       30-90          ˆ   50-55  Well drained    JC
    
    Hypoestes      GP        10-21              70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Hyssopus       HP        14-42              60-70  Peaty           1/16"
    
    
    
    Iliamna        HP        30-360   L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Impatiens      HHA       21-30    L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5. Maintain a very high humidity until germination.
    
    Incarvillea    HP        25-30              55-65  Well drained    S		See No. 5.         
    
    Indigofera     HHSh      30-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    1/8		See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
    
    Inula          HP        14-42              55-65  Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ
    
    Ionopsidium    HA        14-21              55-60  Well drained    1/16"	Sow in situ.       
    
    Ipomaea        HHA       5-21           ˆ   70-85  Peaty           1/4"		Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Iris           HP        30-545         ˆ   60-70  Peaty           1/4"		See No. 6. May take two winters outdoors.
    
    Isatis         HB        14-42              50     Well drained    1/16"	Sow in situ.       
    
    Ixiolirion     HBb       30-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Ixora          GSh       30-120         ˆ   70-75  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    
    
    Jacaranda      GSh       10-15              70-85  Peaty           JC
    
    Jacobaea       HA        8-21               60-65  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Jacobinia      GP        30-180         ˆ   75-80  Peaty           1/8"		See No. 13. soak for 24 hours).
    
    Jasione        HP        10-21              70     Well drained    JC
    
    Jatropha       GP        30-120         ˆ   65-75  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Jovellana      H/HHSh    30-90          ˆ   60-50  Well drained    S
    
    Kalanchoe      GP        7-30     L     ˆ   65-75  Weil drained    S		Likes good air circulation.
    
    Kallstroemia   HHA       14-21          ˆ   60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Kaulfussia     HA        21-30              -      Well drained    1/4"		Best sown in situ.  Thin to 6².
    
    Kentranthus    HP        21-40              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Kirengeshoma   HP        30-300             55-65  Peaty           JC		Keep compost uniformly moist.
    
    Knautia        HP        10-21                -    Well drained    1/4"		Best sown in situ  Thin to 6'.
    
    Kniphofia      HP        10-30              70-75  Peaty           1/4"		Reduce soil temperature at night
    
    Kochia         HHA       10-15    L         70-75  Well drained    S
    
    
    
    Lagerstroemia  HHSh      15-20    L         70     Well drained    S		See No. 5.         
    
    Lagunaria      GT        30-180         ˆ   68-70  Peaty           1/8"		See No. 13.      (Soak for 2 hours).
    
    Lamium         HP        30-60              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Lampranthus    HHP       15-30    D         65-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Lantana        HHP       42-60          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/8"		See No. 13.      (Soak 1 day in hand hot water).
    
    Lapageria      HHP       30-90          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/8"		See No. 13.      Soak for 3 days changing water 3/5 times per day
    
    Lapeirousia    HBb       30-90          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Larkspur       HA        14-21    D         50-55  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks). High temperatures cause dormancy.
    
    Lasthenia      HA        17-21                -    Well drained    1/8"		Best sown in situ  Thin to 4".
    
    Lathyrus       HP        20-30          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           1/4"		Soak or chip the seeds. See Nos. 12 or 13.
    
    Lavatera       HA, HB, HP15-20              70     Peaty           1/16"                 
    
    Lavender       HSh       21-90          ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-6 weeks).
    
    Lawrencellida  HHA       21-30    L         65-75  Well drained    S
    
    Layia          HA        8-30               70-75  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Leea           GP        30-90          ˆ   75-80  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 13.        
    
    Leontopodium   HP        10-42    L     ˆ   50     Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Leptosiphon    HA        17-21              55-65  Well drained    1/16"	Best sown in situ. 
    
    Leptospermum   HHSh      30-180         ˆ   60     Peaty           1/16"
    
    Leptosyne      HA        6-12     L         60-65  Peaty           1/8"
    
    Leschenaultia  GSh       30-120         ˆ   60-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Lewisia        HP        365+     L     ˆ   50     Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 5 weeks).
    
    Liatris         HP        20-25              55-75  Well drained    JC		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Libertia       HP        30-180         ˆ   50     Well drained    1/8"		See No. 6.         
    
    Ligularia      HP        14-42          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           S		Keep compost slighty moist.
    
    Lilies         HBb       30-365         ˆ   65-75  Peaty           JC		See No. 10 for more details.
    
    Limnanthes     HA        14-21              60     Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ
    
    Limonium       HP, HHA   10-20    D         65-70  Well drained    JC		Suworowii needs total darkness to germinate.
    
    Linanthus      HA        17-21              -      Well drained    1/8"		Sow outdoors and thin out.
    
    Linaria        HP        10-15              55-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Linum          HP        20-25              65     Well drained    1/8"		Best sown in situ. 
    
    Lisianthus     HHP       10-21    L         68-77  Well drained    S
    
    Lithops        GP        10-40    L     ˆ   75-80  Well drained    S
    
    Lobelia        HHA,HHP   15-20    L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    S		Place seed of perennial types in fridge for 3 months (See No. 14).
    
    Lomatia        HHSh      30-180         ˆ   60-65  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Lonas          HA        5-7      D         70     Well drained    JC		Can be sown in situ
    
    Lotus          HHP       14-30          ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC		Transplant into 3" pots.
    
    Luculia        HHSH      30-60          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Lunaria        HB        10-14              70     Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Lupin          HP        15-60    D     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/8"		Soak or chip the seeds. See Nos. 12 or 13.
    
    Lychnis        HP        21-30    L         70     Well drained    S		See No. 12. (pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    Lysichitum     HP        30-60          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           1/4"		Keep compost saturated by standing in water.
    
    Lysimachia     HP        30-90          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           S		Keep compost moist.
    
    Lythrum        HP        15-30              65-70  Peaty           JC
    
    
    
    Macropidia     GP        30-90    L         60-65  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Malope         HA        14-30              65-75  Peaty           JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Malva          HP        5-21               70     Peaty           1/16"
    
    Mandeville     HHSh      14-30              65-75  Well drained    JC		Sow in 1/2 sand and 1/2 peat.
    
    Mandragora     HP        50-60              55-60  Peaty           1/8"		
    
    Marigold       HHA       5-14               70-75  Peaty           JC
    
    Matricaria     HP        5-21     L         65-75  Well drained    S		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Maurandia      HHP       14-21              65-70  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Meconopsis     HP        14-28          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           S		Keep slightly moist. See also No. 5.                 
    
    Melia          GT        30-180         ˆ   55     Well drained    1/8"
    
    Melianthus     HHSh      30-180         ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Mentzelia      HA        5-21               55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Mertensia      HP        30-60          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    MesembryanthemumHHA      15-20    D         65-75  Well drained    S
    
    Metrosideros   HHSh      30-90          ˆ   60-60  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Mimosa         GP        21-30    L     ˆ   70-75  Well drained    S		See No. 13. (Soak for 20 minutes in almost boiling water).
    
    Mimulus        HHP, HP   7-21     L         70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks). Then No. 5.
    
    Mina           HHP       20-25              70     Well drained    1/4"		Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Mirabilis      HHA       7-21     L         70     Well drained    S	
    
    
    
    MIXTURES: the different types in these groups will all germinate at
    
    different times. Prick out each as it emerges and do not discard
    
    
    
    Conifer Trees    HT      30-365         ˆ   55-65  Peaty           JC		See Nos. 6 and 16  
    
    Deciduous Trees  HT      30-365         ˆ   55-65  Peaty           JC		See Nos. 6 and 16
    
    Wild Flowers  HA,HP      30-180         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/16²	See No. 6
    
    Everlasting Fls. HHA     14-21              65-75  Well drained    1/16²	Can be sown in situ
    
    Everlasting Fls. HP      30-180         ˆ   65-75  Well drained    JC		See No. 6
    
    Exotics          GP      30-180         ˆ   65-75  Peaty           JC		Fls. to attract B/flies
    
                     HA      14-21                -    Well drained    1/8²		Can be sown in situ
    
    Australian Bush  GP      30-180   L     ˆ   75-80  Peaty           S
    
    Shore/Coastal    HB,HP   30-180         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Silver/Grey Fol. HP,HHA  30-180         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Succulents       HHP     30-90    L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    S
    
    
    
    
    
                       
    
    Moluccelia               21-35    L     ˆ   60     Well drained    JC		Pre-chill for 5 days then 40°F temp. night gives best results.
    
    Momordica      HHA       14-21              65-75  Peaty           1/8"		Sow seeds singly in 3' pots.
    
    Monarda        HP        10-40              60-70  Peaty           JC		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Moraea         HHBb      30-90          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Morina         HP        14-42              50     Peaty           1/16"
    
    Mucuna         GP        21-90              65-75  Peaty           1/4"
    
    Muscari        HBb       42-60              60-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Mutisia        H/HHSh    30-90          ˆ   70     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Myosotidium    H/HHP     30-180         ˆ   65-70  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Myosotis       HB        14-30    D         65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5 but keep in total darkness.
    
    Myrrhis        HP        14-42              55-65  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ
    
    
    
    Naranjilla     GP        10-30          ˆ   70-80  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Nasturtium     HA        7-12               65     Well drained    1/4"		Best sown in situ  
    
    Nemesia        HHA       7-21               55-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Nemophila      HA        7-21               55     Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ.
    
    Neperrthes     GP        30-90          ˆ   75-85  Peaty           S		Dont let compost dry out. See also No.5.
    
    Nepeta         HP        7-21               60-70  Well drained    JC		Can be sown in situ.                   
    
    Nerine         HHBb      14-21              65-70  Well drained    S		Sow immediately, keep moist and place in a polythene bag.
    
    Nerium         GSh       30-90    L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S
    
    Nertera        GP        30-90    D     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    SC		See No. 8.         
    
    Nicandra       HA        15-20              70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Nicotiana      HHA       10-20    L         70-75  Well drained    S
    
    Nierembergia   HHP       15-30          ˆ   70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Nigella        HA        10-15              65-70  Well drained    1/16"	Best sown in situ. Resents transplanting.
    
    Nolana         HHA       14-30              60-70  Well drained    1/16"	Can be sown in situ.
    
    Nomocharis     HBb       30-180   L     ˆ   45-50  Well drained    JC		See No. 16         
    
    Notholirion    H/HHBb    30-180   L     ˆ   45-50  Well drained    JC		See No .16         
    
    
    
    Ocimum         HA        14-42    L         55-60  Well drained    S
    
    Oenothera      HP        15-30    L         65-70  Well drained    JC		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Omphalodes     HP        14-42              65-75  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Onopordon      HP,HB     30-60              55-60  Well drained    1/4"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Onosma         HP        30-60              50     Well drained    1/16"
    
    Orchid         GP        90-365   L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    S
    
    Orchis         HBb       90-365   L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    S
    
    Ornithogalum   GBb       30-180         ˆ   55-60  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 6          
    
    Orphium        GSh       21-42    L         65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Osteospermum   HHA,HP    10-15    L         60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Oxalis         HBb       14-60              55-68  Well drained    JC
    
    
    
    Pachypodium    GP        30-180   L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    S
    
    Paeonia        HP        365+     L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 16. Keep shaded and moist.
    
    Palms          GP        60-180         ˆ   75-80  Peaty           1/4"		See No. 2          
    
    Pansy          HP        14-21    D     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 14. (Pre-Chill for 2 Weeks.)
    
    Papaver        HP        10-30    D         55     Well drained    S		Best sown in situ.  P. Orientale Needs light for germination.
    
    Paradisea      HP        30-180         ˆ   50     Well drained    1/16"	See No. 6          
    
    Parnassia      HP        30-180         ˆ   55-65  Peaty           S		Stand seed pan in a saucer of water to keep soil always moist.
    
    Parochetus     HP        30-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    1/16"	See No. 13.
    
    Passiflora     HHP       30-365         ˆ   70-85  Peaty           1/4"		See No. 13. Give the seed container an occasional soaking.
    
    Pavonia        GSh       30-60          ˆ   75     Peaty           1/16"
    
    Peanuts        GA        7-21               70-75  Peaty           1/4"		Sow and place inside a polythene bag until germination.
    
    Peltiphyllum   HP        30-90    L     ˆ   55-60  Peaty           S		Stand seed pan in a saucer of water to keep soil always moist.
    
    Penstemon      HP        18-21    L         55-60  Well drained    JC		See No.14          
    
    Pentas         GP        25-40              70-75  Peaty           S		See No.5           
    
    Peperomia      GP        15-30              70-75  Peaty           S		See No.5           
    
    Perilla        HHA       15-30    L         65-75  Peaty           S
    
    Petrea         GSh       30-60    L         65-75  Peaty           S
    
    Petunia        HHA       10-21    L         70-75  Peaty           S      	F1 hybrids and doubles may need 80°F to germinate.
    
    Phacelia       HA        12-30    D         55-65  Well drained    1/4"		Best sown in situ.  Total dark required.
    
    Phaeomeria     GP        30-90          ˆ   80     Well drained    1/8"
    
    Phaseolus      GP        30-60              65-70  Well drained    1/16"	Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 an 13.
    
    Philodendron   GP        30-120         ˆ   75-80  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Phlomis        HP        14-42              60     Well drained    JC
    
    Phlox-Annual   HHA       10-21    D         55-65  Peaty           1/16"	Sow direct into pots as it resents transplanting.
    
    Phlox-PerennialHP        25-30    D     ˆ   70     Peaty           1/16"	See No.14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Phormium       HP        30-180         ˆ   60-65  Peaty           JC                  
    
    Phuopsis       HP        30-40    L         50-60  Well drained    S
    
    Phygelius      HP        10-14              70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Physalis       HP        21-30    L         70     Well drained    S
    
    Physostegia    HP        21-30              55-75  Peaty           JC		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Phyteuma       HP        30-90          ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC		See No.6           
    
    Phytolacca     HP        30-60          ˆ   65-70  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Pilea          GP        14-60    L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Pinguicula     HHP       30-120   L     ˆ   55     Peaty           S		See No. 5. Use a compost 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand.
    
    Pittosporum    HHSh      30-60              55     Well drained    1/16"	Place seeds in a bag and dip in boiling water for few seconds.
    
    Platycodon     HP        15-30    L         70     Well drained    S
    
    Platystemon    HA        14-30              55-65  Well drained    1/16		Sow in situ        
    
    Plumbago       GP        25-30              70     Well drained    JC
    
    Plumeria       GP        30-180         ˆ   65-75  Peaty           1/16"	See No. 13.        
    
    Podolepis      HHA       21-30    L         65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Podophyllum    HP        30-180   L     ˆ   55-60  Peaty           JC		Pre-chill for 3 weeks. Keep compost always moist.
    
    Polemonium     HP        20-25              70     Peaty           1/16"	Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Polygala       HSh       30-60    L         60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Polygonatum    HP        30-545         ˆ   50     Well drained    1/16"	See No. 6.         
    
    Polygonum      HP,HHA    21-60          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/16"  	Do not overwater      
    
    Portulaca      HHA       14-21    L         70-85  Well drained    S
    
    Potentilla     HP        14-30              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Poterium       HP        30-60          ˆ   50     Well drained    JC		See No. 6.         
    
    Primula-IndoorsGA, GP    20-25    L     ˆ   55-60  Peaty           S		P.Sinensis needs darkness for germination.
    
    Primula-OutdoorHP        21-40    L     ˆ   60-65  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Proboscidia    GA/HHA    15-42          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/4"
    
    Protea         HHT       30-90          ˆ   65-75  Peaty           1/4"		Sow immediately.   
    
    Prunella       HP        30-60              55-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Psidium                  30-60          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           JC		See No. 13.        
    
    Pulmonaria     HP        30-42              60-65  Peaty           JC
    
    Pulsatilla     HP        30-180         ˆ   60-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 6. Trim 'tails' off seeds before sowing
    
    Pyrethum       HHA, HP   30-60          ˆ   55     Well drained    JC		Doubleness of flowers increases in 2nd year.
    
    Pyrola         HSh       30-90    L     ˆ   55     Peaty           S
    
    
    
    Ramonda        HP        30-60    L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    S
    
    Ranunculus     HP        30-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    1/16"	See No. 6.         
    
    Raoulia        HP        30-90    L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    S
    
    Ratibida       HA/HB/HP  21-42              68-75  Well drained    1/8"		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Rechsteineria  GBb       30-60              70     Well drained    JC
    
    Rehmannia      H/HHP     21-42    L         60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Reseda         HB,HA     5-21     L         70     Well drained    S		Extra care required when transplanting.
    
    Rheum          HP        21-42              60-65  Peaty           1/8"
    
    Rhodanthe      HHA       14-30              75-80  Well drained    JC		Can be sown in situ
    
    Rhodochiton    HHP       12-42          ˆ   60-65  Peaty           JC
    
    Rhodohypoxis   HP        30-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    JC		Lime free compost required.
    
    Rhoeo          GP        14-60              65-70  Peaty           JC		See No. 13. (Soak for 1/2 hour).
    
    Ricinus        HHA       15-21              70-75  Peaty           1/4"		These seeds are poisonous.
    
    Rochea         HHP       14-42    L         60-70  PBM             S		See No. 5.         
    
    Rodgersia      HP        12-60    L         55-60  Peaty           S                 
    
    Roscoea        HP        30-365   L     ˆ   50-55  Well drained    S		See No. 16.        
    
    Rothmannia     HHSh      30-90          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/8"		See No. 13. (Soak for 5 hours).
    
    Rudbeckia      HHA, HP   5-21     L         70     Peaty           S		Fulgida see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    Ruella         HP        30-60          ˆ   65-75  Peaty           JC
    
    Ruta           HP        30-42              60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    
    
    Sagina         HP        10-21              55     Well drained    JC
    
    Saintpaulia    GP        30-60    L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Salpiglossis   HHA       15-30    D     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S
    
    Salvia         HHA, HA   10-14    L     ˆ   68-80  Well drained    S		For Patens & Superba see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Sandersonia    HHBb      30-90          ˆ   75     Well drained    1/8"		See No. 13.        
    
    Sanguinaria    HP        30-90          ˆ   50-55  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Sanguisorba    HP        30-60              50-55  Well drained    S
    
    Sanvitalia     HA        10-21    L         70     Well drained    S		Take care when transplanting.
    
    Saponaria      HA,HP     10-21    L         70     Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Sarracenia     HP        30-90    L     ˆ   75-80  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 7 days) then No. 5.
    
    Saxifraga      HP        15-60          ˆ   65-75  Well drained    JC		See No. 6.         
    
    Scabiosa       HA        10-15          ˆ   70-75  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Schefflera     GSh       20-30              75     Peaty           1/16"
    
    Schizanthus    GA        7-14     D         60-75  Peaty           S
    
    Schizopetalon  HHA       6-21               60-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Schizostylis   HBb       30-90          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Scilla         HP        30-180         ˆ   50     Peaty           1/16"	See No. 6.         
    
    Scutellaria    HP        14-180         ˆ   50     Well drained    JC
    
    Sedum          HP        15-30          ˆ   50     Well drained    S		See No. 6.         
    
    Sempervivum    HP        15-30          ˆ   70     Well drained    S
    
    Senecio        HHA       10-21    L         65-75  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Setcreasia     HHP       30-40              70     Peaty           JC
    
    Shortia        HP        30-60          ˆ   60-65  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Sidalcea       HP        14-42              50     Well drained    1/8"
    
    Silene         HP        15-20              70     Well drained    JC		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Silybum        HA        14-21              55-60  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Simmondsia     HHT       14-21              65-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 13. (Soak for 12 hours).
    
    Sinningia      GP        10-21    L         70     Peaty           S
    
    Sisyrinchium   HP        30-180         ˆ   50     Well drained    1/8"		See No. 6.         
    
    Smilacena      HP        30-180   L     ˆ   60-65  Peaty           JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Smithiantha    GP        15-40    L         75-77  Peaty           S		Very small seeds   
    
    Solanum        GP        15-21    L         70-80  Well drained    S		The plants should be placed outdoors through the summer for pollination.
    
    Soldanella     HP        30-180   L     ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Solidago       HP        14-42              50     Well drained    JC
    
    Sparaxis       HBb       30-90          ˆ   50-55  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Sparmannia     GSh       21-30              65-75  Peaty           JC
    
    Specularia     HA        12-30                -    Well drained    1/16"	Sow outdoors and thin out.
    
    Spigelia       H/HHP     30-60    L         65-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Stachys        HP        15-30    L         70     Well drained    JC		Reduce soil temperature at night. Grow on the dry side.
    
    Stapelia       GP        7-30     L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		Use 1/2 peat 1/2 sand.
    
    Stenocarpus    HHT       30-90          ˆ   65-75  Well drained    JC                  
    
    Stephanotis    GP        15-90          ˆ   75-80  Peaty           1/16"	Keep the compost slightly moist.
    
    Stereospermum  GSh       30-18O         ˆ   65-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Stocks         HHA       10-14    L         55-60  Well drained    S		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Stokesia       HP        25-30              70     Peaty           1/16"
    
    Strelitzia     GP        30-180         ˆ   70-75  Sand            S		See No. 1. Soak for up to 3 days changing the water daily.
    
    Streptocarpus  GP        15-30    L         55-65  Peaty           S		Very small seeds. See No. 5.
    
    Streptosolon   HHSh      30-90          ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Stylomecon     HA        14-21              -      Well drained    1/16"	Sow outdoors and thin out to 6".
    
    Succisa        HP        10-21          ˆ   65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Sutherlandia   H/HHSh    21-30              60-65  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 13. (Soak for 3 hours).
    
    Sweet Pea      HA        10-20    D         55-65  Peaty           1/4²		File or soak seeds. See Nos. 12 and 13. Grow cool.
    
    Symphyandra    HP        21-30    L         60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    
    
    Tacca          GP        30-270         ˆ   80-85  Peaty           1/8"		Soak for 72 hours. See No. 13.
    
    Tacitus        HHP       30-90    L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    S
    
    Tecophilaea    HBb       30-365         ˆ   50-55  Peaty           1/16"	Keep compost slightly moist.
    
    Tellima        HP        30-90          ˆ   55-60  Well drained    S		See No. 6.         
    
    Tephrosia      HP        21-42              65-70  Well drained    JC		Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Tetranema      GP        14-30              65-75  Peaty           JC
    
    Teucrium       HP        25-30              70     Well drained    S
    
    Thalictrum     HP        15-21          ˆ   50-60  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Thermopsis     HP        15-30              70     Well drained    1/16"	File or soak the seeds. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Thunbergia     HHA       14-21          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           JC		Keep the compost slightly moist.
    
    Thymus         HP        15-30    L         55     Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Tiarella       HP        14-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    S		See No. 6.         
    
    Tibouchina     GSh       30-90    L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Tigridia       H/HHBb    30-90              55-60  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Tillandsia     GP        30-90    L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Tithonia       HHA       5-14     L     ˆ   70-    Well drained    S
    
    Torenia        GA        15-30    L         70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Townsendia     HP        30-90          ˆ   60     Well drained    1/16"	See No. 6.         
    
    Trachelium     HHP       15-21    L         55-60  Well drained    S
    
    Trachymene     HHA       15-30    D         70     Well drained    1/16"	Transplant carefully.
    
    Tradescantia   HP        30-40              70     Peaty           JC		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Tree Fems      HHP       30-120   L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 4.         
    
    Trichosanthes  HHA       14-30              65-75  Peaty           1"		Sow singly in 2' pots.
    
    Tricyrtis      HP        30-90          ˆ   65-70  Well drained    1/8"		Keep compost slighty moist.
    
    Trillium       HP        545+           ˆ   60-70  Well drained    S		See No. 15. Requires two periods of at least 3 months in the frig.
    
    Tripteris      HA        5-14               60-65  Well drained    1/8"		Can be sown in situ.
    
    Trollius       HP        30-365         ˆ   50     Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    Trop. SpeciosumHP        360-720        ˆ   55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Tropaeolum     HA        10-15              55-65  Peaty           1/4"		Can be sown in situ
    
    Tulipa         HBb       60-90          ˆ   50     Well drained    1/8"		See No. 6.         
    
    Tunica         HP        14-60          ˆ   50     Well drained    1/16		See No. 6          
    
    Tweedia        GP        30-90          ˆ   75     Well drained    JC
    
    
    
    Urospermum     HP/HB     16-30    L         60-65  Well drained    JC                 
    
    Ursinia        HHA       14-30              55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Uvularia       HP        30-180         ˆ   55-60  Peaty           JC
    
    Vallota        HHBb      30-60              65-70  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Veltheimia     HHBb      30-90          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           1/16"	Keep compost slightly moist
    
    Venidium       HHA       6-14               60-65  Peaty           1/8"
    
    Veratrum       HP        90-365         ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/4²		See No. 6 and No. 16.
    
    Verbascum      HB,HP     14-30              55-60  Well drained    1/16"	Can be grown in situ
    
    Verbena        HHA,HP    14-90    D     ˆ   65     Well drained    1/16"	Bonariensis & Venosa. See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    Verbesina      HHA       14-30              60-65  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Veronica       HP        15-30    L         70     Peaty           JC		Reduce soil temperature at night.
    
    Veronicastrum  HP        21-40    L         55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    Vicia          HP        21-40              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Vinca          GA        15-30    D     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/16"
    
    Viola          HP        14-21    D     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    1/16"	See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    Viscaria       HA        10-21              60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Vriesia        GP        7-90     L     ˆ   60.7   Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    
    
    Wahlenbergia   HHA       14-28    L         60-70  Well drained    S
    
    Wallflower     HB        10-14              65-70  Well drained    1/4"		Sow in reserve bed, prick out 6² apart, plant out in October.
    
    Waterlily      GP        14-30							File seed and submerge in water at 75-85'F, change water twice daily.
    
    Watsonia       HBb       30-180         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/8"		Keep the compost slimy moist.
    
    Xeranthemum    HA        10-15              70     Well drained    JC		Transplant carefully.
    
    Xerophyllum    HP        30-60          ˆ   55-60  Peaty           JC
    
    
    
    Yucca          HA        30-365         ˆ   65-75  Well drained    JC		Filamentosa germinates at 55°F.
    
    
    
    Zantedeschia   HHP       30-90    L     ˆ   70-80  Peaty           S		See No. 13. Keep compost quite moist.
    
    Zauschneria    H/HHP     30-60    L         60-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Zea            HHA       5-14               70     Peaty           1/4"		Sow seeds individually in peat pots.
    
    zinnia         HHA       10-24              75-80  Peaty           1/16"	Sow seeds individually in peat pots.
    
    
    
    
    
    _______________________________________________________________________________________
    
    
    
    
    
    TREES AND SHRUBS
    
    
    
    Abies          HT        21-30    L     ˆ   68-75  Peaty           S		Soak overnight then pre-chill for 21 days. (No. 14).
    
    Acer           HT        30-365+  L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		Soak for 2 days then No. 15. (2 months warm moist, 2 months frig)
    
    Ailanthus      HT        30-90    L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    S		Chip, soak then No. 14 for 2 weeks.
    
    Akebia         HSh       30-180   L     ˆ   50-60  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (4 weeks).
    
    Albiza         HSh/HT    30-90          ˆ   65-75  Well drained    1/8"		Soak for 12 hours in tepid water before sowing.
    
    Amorpha        HSh       30-120         ˆ   50-60  Well drained    1/16"	Soak for 12 hours in tepid water before sowing.
    
    Andromeda      HSh       30-60    L     ˆ   50-60  Peaty           S		Stand seed pan in a saucer of water to keep soil always moist.
    
    Araucaria      HT        30-60    D         55-60  Peaty           1/4"		Sow immediately    
    
    Arbutus        HT        60-90    L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (6-8 weeks).                
    
    Arundinaria    HSh       30-90    L     ˆ   70     Peaty           JC		Stand seed in a saucer of water to keep the soil always moist.
    
    Asterolasia    HSh       30-180         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    1/16"
    
    Aucuba         HSh       30-90          ˆ   65-70  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Azalea         HSh       50-90    L     ˆ   55-60  Peaty           S		See No. 5 or No. 6. Keep shaded from direct sun.
    
    
    
    Berberis       HSh       60-180   L     ˆ   50-65  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (8 weeks).
    
    Betula         HT        30-90    L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (10 weeks).
    
    Buddleia       HSh       20-30    L         70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Bupleurum      HSh       14-60              55-60  Well drained    JC
    
    
    
    Calluna        HSh       30-60    L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Calocedrus     HT        30-90    L         50-60  Peaty           JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Camellia       HSh       30-90          ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/4²		See No. 13 . May also benefit from No. 14.
    
    Caragana       HSh       14-21    L         65-70  Well drained    S		See No. 13.        
    
    Carpinus       HT        30-365   L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    S		See No. 15. (1 month at 70°F then 4 months in frig.) or No. 16.
    
    Caryopteris    HSh       30-90          ˆ   65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Catalpa        HT        14-30    L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		Give seedlings good ventilation to prevent damping off.
    
    Ceanothus      HSh       30-60    L         65-70  Well drained    S		Soak overnight then treat as No. 14 for 2 weeks.
    
    Cedrus         HT        14-60    L     ˆ   60-65  Well drained    S		Soak for 2-3 hours then treat as No. 14 for 3 weeks.
    
    Cephalotaxus   HSh       14-60          ˆ   60-65  Peaty           JC
    
    Cercis         HSh       30-90    L     ˆ   70-75  Well drained    JC		See No.13. Soak in hand hot water then No. 14 for 2-3 months.
    
    Chaenomeles    HSh       70-90    L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 7-10 weeks).
    
    Chamaecyparis  HT,HHT    30-60    L         50-60  Peaty           JC		See No 14. (Pre-chilll for 3 weeks).
    
    Chimonanthus   HSh       63-90    L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 5-8 weeks).
    
    Chionanthus    HSh       30-180   L     ˆ   60-70  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 1 month)
    
    Cistus         HSh       7-30     L         65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.
    
    Clerodendron   HSh       60-90    L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-6 weeks).
    
    Colutea        HSh       7-21               65-70  Well drained    1/16²	Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Cordyline      HHSh      30-60          ˆ   65-70  Peaty           1/16²
    
    Cornus         HSh       90-730   L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    S		See No.15. (2 months at 70°F then 3 months in frig) or No. 16.
    
    Coronilla      HHSh      30-60              65-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Cotoneaster    HSh       180-365  L     ˆ   70     Acid Peaty      S		See No.15. (3-5 months at 70°F then 3 months in frig) or No. 16.
    
    Crataegus      HSh       180-730  L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    S		See No.15. (3-5 months at 70'F then 3 months in frig) or No. 16.
    
    Crinodendron   H/HHSh    30-120         ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC		See No.13. (Soak for 3 hours).
    
    Cryptomeria    HT        30-60          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           1/16²
    
    Cupressus      HT        30-90    L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		See No.14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Cytisus        HSh       25-30    L         70-75  Well drained    S		See No.13. Transplant to final quarters whilst still small.
    
    
    
    Daboecia       HSh       30-120   L     ˆ   55-65  Acid peat       S		Never allow compost to dry out.
    
    Daphne         HSh       150- 365 L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    S		See No. 15.(2 months at 70°F then 3 months in the frig)
    
    Davidia        HT        300-365        ˆ   50-65  Peaty           1/4		See No. 15.(3-4 months warm moist, 3-4 months frig.).
    
    Decaisnea      HSh       30-180         ˆ   55-60  Well drained    1/4		
    
    
    
    Elaeagnus      HT/HSh    140-180        ˆ   50-65  Well drained    1/16		See No. 15.(4 weeks warm moist, 8-12 weeks frig.).
    
    Enkianthus     HSh       25-60    L     ˆ   60-70  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
    
    Erica          HSh       30-60    L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Euonymus       HSh       220-365        ˆ   50-65  Well drained    1/16		See No. 15.(8-12 weeks warm moist, 8-16 weeks frig.).
    
    
    
    Fagus           HT       30-365   L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    JC		Soak overnight then see No. 14 (pre-chill for 6 weeks) or No. 16.
    
    Forsythia      HSh       30-90              55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    FremontodendronHHSh/HSh  30-60              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Fuchsia        HSh       21-90    L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5. Soak in rain water for 3-4 days. Keep compost moist.
    
    
    
    Gaultheria     HSh       30-60    L         65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-10 weeks). Acid soils only.
    
    Genista        HSh       14-30              55-65  Well drained    JC		See No. 13.        
    
    Gingko         HT        30-60    L     ˆ   70-75  Peaty           1/8		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 8-10 weeks).
    
    Gleditschia    HT        14-30              65-70  Well drained    JC		Chip and soak for 24 hours. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Gymnocladus    HT        30-90          ˆ   65-70  Well drained    1/4		Chip and soak in warm water for 24 hours. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    
    
    Hamamelis      HSh       270-365  L     ˆ   50-60  Peaty           1/16		See No.15. (3 months at 70°F then place in frig. for 3 months).
    
    Hebe           HHSh      15-30              70     Peaty           JC
    
    Hibiscus       HSh       30-60          ˆ   70-75  Well drained    1/16		See No.13.    
    
    Hippophae      HSh       30-180   L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC		See No.14. (Pre-chill for 14 weeks).
    
    Holodiscus     HSh       30-180         ˆ   60-65  Well drained    S
    
    
    
    Indigofera     HSh       30-60              65-70  Well drained    1/16		Pour nearly boiling water over seed and leave to soak overnight.
    
    
    
    Jasminum       HSh       20-30              70-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Juglans        HT        30-180   L     ˆ   50-60  Peaty           JC		See No. 14. (2-3 weeks). Place so that dividing line is at the top.
    
    Juniperus      HT        30-180   L     ˆ   45-50  Peaty           S		Soak for 24 hours. High temperatures prevent germination.
    
    
    
    Kalmia         HSh       30-60    L     ˆ   70     Sandy peat      S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
    
    Kalmiopsis     HSh       30-60    L         65-70  Acid, sandy peatS
    
    Koelreuteria   HT        30-60    L     ˆ   55-65  Peaty           JC		See No. 13. (Use boiling water) then No. 14 (place in frig. for 3 weeks).
    
    Kolwitzia      HT        40-70    L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    JC		Soak for  24 hours then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    
    
    Labumum        HT        30-60              65-70  Well drained    1/16		Chip and  soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Larix          HT        30-90    L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 1 month).
    
    Laurus         HT        40-90    L     ˆ   50-60  Peaty           JC		Soak for 24 hours then No. 14. (Pre-chill 1 month)
    
    Ledum          HSh       30-60    L     ˆ   55-65  Acid peat       S
    
    Leycesteria    HSh       30-60              60-65  Sandy peat      JC
    
    Liquidambar    HT        14-365   L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months). Don't let the seeds dry out.
    
    Liriodendron   HT        60-365   L     ˆ   65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 16.
    
    Loiseleuria    HSh       30-60              65-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Lonicera       HSh       180+     L     ˆ   60-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 14. Place in frig. for 3 months. Keep temp. below 75°F.
    
    
    
    Magnolia       HT        120+     L     ˆ   50     Well drained    JC		See No. 14. Place in frig. for 4 months.
    
    Mahonia        HSh       90-120   L     ˆ   50     Peaty           JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).                   
    
    Malus          HT        120-365  L     ˆ   50     Peaty           JC		Soak for 24 hours then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 14 weeks).
    
    Menziesia      HSh       30-60              55     Sandy peat      S		Keep compost uniformly moist.
    
    Morus          HT        14-30    L         65-75  Peaty           S		See No. 5. or see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 1-3 months).
    
    Myrtus         HHSH      30-90          ˆ   55-65  Peaty           JC		See No. 13.        
    
    
    
    Nyssa          HT        90-365   L     ˆ   50     Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
    
    
    
    Olea           HHT/HT    30-120         ˆ   65-70  Well drained    1/8"
    
    Olearia        H/HHSh    30-60    L         65-70  Well drained    S
    
    Ostrya         HT        365+     L     ˆ   50-60  Well drained    JC		See No. 16.
    
    
    
    Paeonia        HSh       270+     L     ˆ   70     Well drained    JC		See No. 15.        
    
    Parthenocissus HSh       60-180   L     ˆ   60-70  Well drained    JC		See No. 13 then 14. (Pre-chill for 6 week).
    
    Paulownia      HT        30-60    L         55-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5 
    
    Philadelphus   HSh       30-60              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Phlomis        HSh       30-90          ˆ   65-75  Well drained    JC
    
    Phyllodoce     HSh       30-60    L         55-65  Peaty           S
    
    Picea          HT        30-60    L     ˆ   55     Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 21 days).
    
    Pieris         HSh       30-70    L     ˆ   65-70  Acid Peat       S		See No. 5.         
    
    Pinus          HT        30-60    L     ˆ   55-65  Well drained    S		Soak seed, then No 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
    
    Pittosporum    HHSh      30-60          ˆ   55     Well drained    1/16"	Place seeds in a bag and dip in boiling water for a few seconds.
    
    Prunus         HT        120-365  L     ˆ   65-75  Well drained    1/16"	Soak overnight then see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 months).
    
    Pseudotsuga    HT        30-180   L     ˆ   75     Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 8 weeks).
    
    Ptelia         HSh/HT    80-120             55-60  Well drained    1/8"		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    Punica         HHSH      30-40    L         70-75  Well drained    S		See No. 13         
    
    Pyracantha     HSh       40-180   L     ˆ   50     Peaty           JC		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
    
    
    
    Quercus        HT        120-365  L     ˆ   50     Peaty           JC		Soak for 24 hours, then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
    
    
    
    Rhododendron   HSh       50-90    L     ˆ   55-60  Acid Peat       S		See No.  6. Keep shaded from direct sun.
    
    Rhodotypos     HSh       365+     L     ˆ   55-65  Peaty           JC		See No. 15. (3 months at 70°F, 3 months chill, 3 months at 70°F).
    
    Rhus           HSh       30-90          ˆ   65-70  Well drained    JC		Chip or soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Robinia        HT        7-30    L         65-75  Well drained     S		See  No. 13. Soak in hand hot water.
    
    Rosa           HSh       30-365+  L     ˆ   55     Well drained    JC		See  No. 16 or No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
    
    
    
    Santolina      HSh       15-30              65-70  Well drained    JC
    
    Sarcococca     HSh       30-120             55-65  Peaty           JC
    
    Sequoia        HT        7-60     L     ˆ   65-70  Peaty           S
    
    Skimmia        HSh       30-180   L     ˆ   50-60  Acid Peat       S		Soak overnight then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Sophora        HT        10-21              70-85  Well drained    JC		Chip and soak seeds. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Sorbus         HT        120-180  L     ˆ   65-70  Well drained    S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 months).
    
    Spartium       HSh       7-30               70     Well drained    JC		Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    Spiraea        HSh       30-40              55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Styrax         HSh       30-90          ˆ   55-65  Well drained    JC
    
    Syringa        HSh       14-60    L         70     Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
    
    
    
    Tamarix        HSh       30-50    L         65-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5.         
    
    Taxodium       HT        14-60    L         70     Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 30 days).                   
    
    Taxus          HT        365+     L     ˆ   70     Peaty           JC		See No. 15. (3 months at 70°F, 3 months chill, 3 months at 70°F).
    
    Thuja          HSh       14-60    L     ˆ   55     Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Trachycarpus   HT        40-90    L     ˆ   55-65  Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
    
    Tsuga          HT        7-60     L     ˆ   60     Peaty           S		See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
    
    
    
    Ulex           HSh       14-21              65-75  Well drained    JC		See No. 13. 
    
    
    
    Vaccinium      HSh       365+     L     ˆ   65-75  Acid Peat       S		See No. 16. 
    
    Viburnum       HSh       240-540  L     ˆ   70     Well drained    JC		See No. 15. (3 months 70°F, 3 months chill, 3 months 70°F).
    
    
    
    Wistaria       HSh       30-60              55-65  Well drained    1/8"		Chip and  soak in hand hot water. See Nos. 12 and 13.
    
    
    
    Zelkova        HT        14-60    L     ˆ   50-70  Peaty           S		See No. 5 or No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
    
    
    
    The following data is provided by Thompson & Morgan Successful Seed Raising Guide. This guide is out of print.
    

    If I was able to help you out.. how about a donation so this site breaks even..please.


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Choosing and care of Christmas tree

    Choosing and care of Christmas tree

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    According to the National Christmas Tree Association (www.realchristmastrees.org), 25 to 30 million real Christmas trees are sold each year.   Of those with real trees, about three out of four bought them at retail outlets, the others cut their own at a tree farm—a trend that has been increasing in recent years.  If you get a tree, either way, this year, follow a few tips in choosing and care for longest life and safety inside.  You may have a choice of several tree species.

    Spruce trees have single needles one-third to one inch long, attached to the twigs by peg-like projections.  The needle is four-sided.  (You can feel the sides by rolling it in your fingers.)  Spruce is generally prickly when rubbing the needles, and so, for this reason, are not the first choice of many tree shoppers. You may see Norway, Colorado, or white spruce.

    The balsam fir also has single needles, but they aren’t quite as prickly, nor can you roll the needles in your fingers as with spruces.  Their dark green needles are flat, and longer than those of the spruce– about three-fourths to one and one-half inches long.  Balsam fir is one of the most common and favored choices in the Northeast.

    Many growers consider an even better choice than the balsam fir to be the Fraser fir.  It is very similar, having a pleasant scent, but branches are a bit more sturdy (better for heavy ornaments), and turn slightly upward.  It grows naturally at higher elevations of the Appalachian mountains.  You may find another good choice– the Canaan fir—which shares the traits of both Fraser and balsam firs, but may be best considered as a type of balsam fir.     
       
    Another species, the Douglas fir, has flat needles of similar length to those of the balsam fir.  The buds are pointed on the Douglas fir but rounded on the balsam fir.  It is a popular choice in western states.  

    Most pines have two to five needles bound together at the base by a sheath.  The needles are about two to five inches long. White pines often don’t hold their needles as long indoors as some other species, while Scotch Pine is one of the more common choices, especially in the South and the Midwest. Depending on the region of North America, you may find other choices such as eastern red cedar, Black Hills spruce, Ponderosa pine, concolor (white) fir, noble fir, and Korean fir. 

    Before you even leave home, measure the space your tree will occupy—both height and width.  Then take a tape measure with you.      Trees always seem to look smaller in the great outdoors than when we get them into our homes!  This simple step can save money buying a tree too large, and extra cutting once the tree is inside.

    Also, before leaving home pack a blanket or tarp to wrap the tree if you can’t fit it inside your vehicle, as well as enough rope to tie securely to your vehicle.  Some tree farms have netting sleeves to slip your trees into, as well as twine.  A pair of work gloves is useful, especially if you’ll be cutting your own, as is a hand saw (many tree farms will provide saws).

    Those choosing to “cut their own tree” at a tree plantation may save money, as these growers often ask a fixed price for any tree.  Sometimes a sleigh ride or coffee and doughnuts at a warming hut are available. Some firms allow you to tag your tree early to cut just before the holidays.  Good buys also can be found at retail outlets, though prices are usually higher as someone else has provided the labor and transportation.  Shop early for a wider selection of trees, and for fresh trees that will last longer.

    How can you easily check for freshness?  First, pinch the needles.  If they bend rather than break, the tree is fresh.  Run your hand along the branches to see if the needles stay on or many fall off.  Or bounce the stump end of the tree on the ground.  If too many needles fall off, choose another tree.  Another way to check for freshness is to feel the base of the tree.  If it is sticky with resin, the tree was recently cut and should stand up well throughout the holidays.

    Upon getting your tree home, especially if you didn’t cut your own, immediately place the base in a large bucket of warm water.  Warm water is absorbed faster than cold. Research has shown that plain tap water is best for trees to last longest.  Home concoctions such as bleach, aspirin, lemon-lime soda, and many preservatives actually may shorten tree life.

    It is useful to recut a half inch off the base to open up the water vessels in the trunk before putting it into water.  One to two inches cut off is not needed as often recommended (unless you need to shorten the tree size), nor is an angled cut.  Don’t trim sides off the base of the trunk as that is where the tree takes up its water.  

    Get a stand that can hold the trunk and your tree size.  Use a stand that holds at least a quart of water for small trees, a gallon for large ones, as a freshly cut evergreen can drink that much water each day.  Generally, figure on a quart of water for each inch of trunk diameter at the base.  So a trunk four inches across ideally should have a stand holding four quarts (gallon) of water.    

    If your tree doesn’t start “drinking” water right away, and you followed all these tips, it could be because the tree hasn’t adjusted from the outdoors and started to dry out if you cut your own.  Or, if precut and fresh, it may not absorb much water until it begins to dry out.    

    Choose a location away from heat sources (heat vents, radiators, wood stoves, sunny windows) and doorways.  Tall trees may need to be secured with wire to walls and ceilings for support.  I have a bookcase affixed securely to the wall that I tie my tall trees to.

    Be sure to check trees daily and add water as needed.  Heated rooms, especially with forced air heat, can dry out trees rapidly.  Keep in mind fire hazards of live trees indoors often are overrated by the media.  According to data from the National Fire Protection Association, both live and artificial Christmas trees are ignited in only one tenth of one percent (0.1 percent) of all home fires.  Trees that are kept fresh, using these tips, and using electric lights with approved and safe wiring, are very difficult to ignite.  The main problem with dry trees is a shorter life with needles dropping.  Pick a fresh tree, and keep it fresh, and you’ll get the enjoyment you expect over the holidays.

    CHOOSING AND CARE OF CHRISTMAS TREES

    Dr. Leonard Perry, Horticulture Professor Emeritus
    University of Vermont    

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    Dr. Leonard Perry

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  • 10 Garden Tips and Tricks to Improve Seed Germaination

    10 Garden Tips and Tricks to Improve Seed Germaination

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    Gardening is a pleasing activity. It boosts
    the happiness level as the plants grow, and the greenery rejuvenates the mind.
    However, the propagation of plants is a bit tricky, and a task to be “looked
    after.” Seed Germination(propagation) is the first and foremost process, which,
    if done accurately, will definitely give fruitful results.

    Seeds
    Germination
    : It
    is the process of developing a seed into the mature plant.

    So, while seeding a plant into the
    soil, we need to get awareness about different things.

    Below, fundamental
    “plants sprouting” requirements are discussed:

    Like a human being, plants are also
    living things and need the same basic things to sprout(grow). Such as:

    Soil Temperature Must Be According To The Requirement

    Soil temperature is the undeniable
    factor in the plant’s propagation process. Make sure the plants are getting the
    adequate amount of warmth and light to grow. However, the amount of sunlight
    and heat that is to be attained varies from plants to plants. For example,
    spinach requires a low temperature than other plants.

    Hence, seeds’ growth depends upon the soil temperature. Proper sunlight intake by plant seeds helps them to come out of the soil and glow with green leaves. Although, it depends upon the nature of the seeds like: which seed needs more sunlight and which requires less sunlight to sprout and flourish.

    Seeds Need Air

    Plant seeds need air to breathe in
    the soil as their sprouting, and the formation of leaves depends upon the availability
    of oxygen. Most land has plenty of air for the seeds. However, in the case of
    over-watery surroundings, the seed becomes
    unable
    to inhale enough oxygen to germinate. So, be careful while
    sowing a seed in the soil and check the soil condition at first. The plants
    bloom well when all the necessary steps are undertaken.

    Note: We talked about the seeds needing air above, but when it comes to “take care” of the root, then we have to be a bit careful, as the air pollutants can drastically affect the root growth.

    Seeds Need Moisture To Grow

    Like air and sunlight, water intake is also imperative in the seed germination process. Keep seeds sufficiently moisturized and do not “over water” them as an excessive water supply can stop the development of the seedling. Also, the amount of water supply depends upon the characteristics of the herb seeds.

    Basic needs are explained above, now
    let’s dig-in to some Important tips and tricks that can help to improve
    seeds germination process.

    Here, we
    will discuss some easy-to-go tips to make seeds germination process feasible.

    1.   Re-consider
    the best place to sow seeds – Inside/outdoor

    First of all, if your seeds are not
    sprouting well, then you have to re-consider “the area” to plant the seed. It
    can be an indoor or outdoor location. For instance, some people who have kitchen
    gardens
    in the backyard of their home, sometimes forget to take care
    of the seeds that were sown there because of plenty of reasons like:

    • No
      presence of nutrient in the soil
    • Ignorance
      towards seeds’ water supply
    • Not
      enough light intake by seeds

    So, wherever you are going to plant
    seeds, it’s essential to make sure whether the sown seeds are getting enough
    amount of everything that is bulleted above or not.

    Do
    you Know?

    The priming of seeds also depends upon Polyethylene Glycol treatments, especially the (PEG-6000) treatment that can increase seed germination rate by reducing the waiting period between sowing and sprouting plus improves the synchronization of germination.

    2.   Use Soil
    Thermometer – The soil condition matters

    Soil temperature helps you to decide when and which seeds should be sown. It is a mandatory factor for improving seed germination. Undeniably, the more suitable the temperature is, the more speedy the propagation would be. A good quality thermometer will tell the accurate temperature of the land and helps to plant seeds with respect to their heat requirement. For example,

    • If
      the temperature is 50°F or higher, you can sow onions,
      leeks, and turnips.
    • If
      the soil temperature is higher or equal to 40°F, you can easily plant lettuce,
      spinach, kale, or peas.
    • If
      the garden’s soil temperature is 60°F or higher, you can choose beans,
      cabbage, broccoli, carrot, and many others.
    • If
      your land temperature is 70°F or higher, you can plant squash,
      peppers, melons, cucumbers, and corn.

    To
    check Soil Temperature:

    Just
    dig the specific part of the soil, and insert the thermometer into the land by
    covering it with your hand (to shade it from sunlight). Take the thermostat to
    the level of the earth where seeds would be sown (make sure it is 6cm at least
    under the ground) and check the temperature to sow the seeds accordingly.

    3.   Use safely
    stored Seeds

    While propagating seeds, you often
    forget to check the quality or usability date of the seeds that end up with the
    “no-grow process.” To avoid such problems, one should check that the seeds that
    were bought from the market are not expired and of suitable conditions. For
    this, always opt for seal-packed seeds and use them within the days of expiry.

    4.   Pre-soak
    the seeds

    Sometimes, the seeds take time to
    grow due to less moisture in the soil. In such a condition, the germination
    gets slower, and seeds do not sprout well. To not let this happen, pre-soaking
    the seeds in the water would come handy and will give a quick-start to them. The
    plant seeds proliferate under the soil, and wouldn’t lie dormant.

    To-Do Tip: Just soak the seeds into the water
    before sowing them down the earth. It will help to penetrate the seed’s outer
    surface, so the plant gets a sign that it’s ready to cultivate.

    For
    Your Information:
    Pre-soaking
    is best for bigger and hard-shelled seeds as it softens the outer layer and
    allows the moisture to reach the inner baby seed – the plant embryo.

    5.   Check the
    Planting Calendar

    If you are new to planting seeds and have
    no idea about planting and plant care, or even if you have been into gardening
    for some time, several questions arise in your mind:

    • When
      should you sow a plant seed?
    • How
      much time will it take to sprout?
    • Which
      seeds plant should be sown in what climate condition?

    Etc, etc.…

    For this, you can check the What
    To Plant Calendar
    , so your task would become easier, and you can get
    results in days as these small tips would definitely help in the seeds
    germination.

    6.   Look after
    the plants/seeds that are rooted down into the earth

    When you are done with sowing seeds,
    you must take care of them and check whether the growth of plants is actually in
    process or not. For this, just watering them on time is not enough; giving attention
    to the following points would help in a better way, too.

    • Damping-off:
      It is a fungal disease that can result in contaminated soil and gets worst by
      irregular watering practice. It can cause many tiny sprouting plants to die and
      wither.
    • Nutrition:
      check for proper nutrition intake by the plants.
    • Temperature and Light: As discussed above, check if the plant seeds are getting an appropriate
      amount of light and whether the temperature is in accordance with the plant’s
      nature or not.

    Let’s
    Make Gardening An Easy Task For You
    😉

    While sowing seeds, it is imperative to look for the best tools for planting seeds because they help you to perform gardening activities professionally and efficiently. Many people use ordinary kitchen tools, but those can’t help you that way. Right?

    Above, we have elucidated some key
    tips, now, check out some more interesting tips to improve seeds germination
    downwards:

    7.   Use of
    Epsom Salt

    Mixing up the soil with Epsom Salt is
    an ideal way to the perfect germination of seeds, as it has a neutral
    PH
    and is easily dissolvable in water.

    The Epsom Salt can easily stop
    earth-worms like snails or voles from attacking the seeds. Also, it helps the
    plants to grow larger and germinate seeds faster. So, applying Epsom Salt in
    the garden can help the propagation rate to reach a high point as well as makes
    the seedlings strong.

    You can mix 1 tablespoon full of
    Epsom Salt with a quart of water and apply it over the soil as a drench.
    Furthermore, you can spray the same quantity on foliage (leaves).

    Do
    you know?

    Epsom
    Salt
    is enriched
    in sulfur and magnesium, and that’s why also called magnesium sulfate. This
    component helps in strengthening the seed walls during germination.

    8.   Seeds
    Nicking (Scarification)

    Seeds Germination rate can be improved by doing the scarification of the seeds. Nickking (or scarification) of seeds is the process of opening the seed jacket(coat) before planting them into the soil.

    To nick, first, take a knife and cut
    each seed. Make sure the opening is small because the deep cut can damage the plant’s
    embryo(baby seed). Moreover, you can choose an alternative way to scarify the
    seed’s coat, for example, sanding through the seed’s jacket with a bit of
    sandpaper can come handy.

    Nicking is mostly done in conjunction
    with soaking seeds as it goes well for hard-shelled plant seeds. Moreover,
    right after nicking, you can soak the seeds in the water (before planting). Nicking
    makes water absorption by plant seeds easy and faster.

    After nicking and soaking them in
    water, sow them in the soil right away.

    Precautionary
    Advice:

    Don’t store scarified (nicked) seeds (to use them later) as they lose the ability to germinate quickly.

    9.   Indoor
    & Outdoor Practices To Improve Seeds’ Germination

    ·    Germination Mats Are Perfect For Indoor Planting

    Germination Mats are explicitly used
    for indoor planting and help to raise the soil temperature in the seed trays
    due to which the propagation of the seeds speeds up. These mats are often used
    to germinating seeds or roots
    cuttings
    but, try not to use them for seedlings growth (as seedling
    growth starts with the germination of the seeds).

    ·   Use of Plastic Mulch

    You can use plastic mulch (a layer
    applied to the surface of the soil) to improve the seed’s propagation process.

    For
    your Knowledge
    : Plastic
    Mulch
    was first used in 1960 to grow vegetables.

    A variety of vegetables are grown
    with the help of plastic mulch. The plastic mulch use has improved the quality
    of vegetable plants and increased the total yield. Additionally, it aids in
    raising the soil temperature to speed up the germination process. For better
    results, use black plastic, and don’t forget to remove the mulch before the
    seeds sprouting.

    10.  Stratification (Freezing & Thawing)

    The process of stratification is
    considered as the most modern seeds’ germination improvement method.
    Stratification means: placing in layers. (According to some people) It is
    invented by modern pioneers to grow seeds faster.

    Stratification involves placing seeds
    in layers of sands and then putting them where they can easily be frozen. Furthermore, stratification
    treatment
    helps to alleviate seed dormancy.

    We have thoroughly discussed the ten
    tips and tricks to improve the seeds germination process, and we hope that this
    article would help you in the plants’ seeds germination process. The presence
    of the garden in the home is the most relaxing and joyful feeling, ever. As Francis
    Bacon
    said:

    “God
    Almighty first planted a garden. And indeed, it is the purest of human pleasures.”

    So, having a green yard in the home
    is a blessing. Take care of your garden, and enjoy healthy food and herbs.

    Happy
    Gardening 😊

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    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • SEND YOUR CHRISTMAS TREE BACK TO THE FUTURE

    SEND YOUR CHRISTMAS TREE BACK TO THE FUTURE

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    Your Christmas tree doesn’t have to meet its end at the local landfill after the holidays. There are many ways to recycle it.

    Send your tree back to nature by composting it. Shred the limbs finely and add them to the compost pile to improve the soil in your garden. Just keep in mind that it will take up to ten months for the material to completely decompose. You can rent shredders although they are useful during the growing season, too, so you might want to buy one or share the cost with gardening neighbors.

    Or, if your community participates in the Merry Mulch Project sponsored by the Vermont Agency of Natural Resources and other cooperators, take your tree to a designated drop-off site. Be sure to remove the tinsel and decorations first. Call the toll-free Vermont Recycling Hotline at 1-800-932-7100 for information. Or check with your regional solid waste district to find out where you can drop off your tree.

    Evergreen needles are an ideal mulch for shrubs and flowering plants. Or if snowfall is light, limbs can be used to cover perennials.

    Clip off a few limbs for accents in winter floral arrangements or for mantle or table decorations. Fresh pine or balsam needles also may be placed in sachets and pot pourri containers for a pine scent that lingers long past the holidays. Make a Christmas-scented pot pourri by mixing equal amounts of balsam or pine needles, bayberry leaves, and tiny pinecones with orrisroot, a fixative that absorbs the scent. As a rule of thumb, use two tablespoons of fixative per five or six cups of dried materials. Add a few drops of a pine-scented oil. You can find orrisroot and oils at herbal shops, natural food co-ops, and many pharmacies and craft stores.

    Another way to recycle your tree is to stand it upright in a corner of your yard as a shelter for wild birds. Decorate with strings of popcorn or pour melted peanut butter and bird seed over the branches to provide a food source for the birds throughout the winter. Or place your tree on its side in a woodsy area to serve as a hiding place for rabbits, moles, and other small rodents.

    A more traditional use for a Christmas tree is as firewood. Cut the trunk into appropriate lengths for burning in your wood stove or fireplace and stack under a waterproof tarp, allowing for good air circulation and proper drying. However, be aware that blue spruce, pine, and other evergreen species will burn hot and fast, and the resin will bubble and pop as the wood burns.

    SEND YOUR CHRISTMAS TREE BACK TO THE FUTURE

    By Lisa Halvorsen
    Garden Editor University of Vermont


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

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    Frederick Leeth

    Source link

  • Primula vulgaris ( Miss Indigo Primrose )

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    Primula vulgaris, also called Primula acaulis, bears clusters of 3 to 25 fragrant, usually pale yellow flowers, 1 to 1 1/2 inches wide, early in the season. This is an evergreen or semi-evergreen, rosette-forming perennial with obovate, serrated to scalloped, prominently veined leaves with hairy undersides, to 10 inches long. Native to Europe and West Turkey. ‘Miss Indigo’ bears double, rich purple flowers with white creamy tips.

    Google Plant Images: click here!

    Characteristics

    Cultivar: Miss Indigo  
    Family: Primulaceae  
    Size: Height: 0.5 ft. to 0.67 ft.
    Width: 1 ft. to 1.17 ft.  
    Plant Category: perennials,  
    Plant Characteristics: low maintenance, seed start,  
    Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, evergreen, semi-evergreen,  
    Flower Characteristics: double, fragrant, showy,  
    Flower Color: creams, purples,  
    Tolerances:  

    Requirements

    Bloomtime Range: Early Spring to Early Spring  
    USDA Hardiness Zone: 4 to 8  
    AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant  
    Light Range: Shade to Part Shade  
    pH Range: 5 to 6.5  
    Soil Range: Some Sand to Loam  
    Water Range: Moist to Moist  

    Plant Care

    Fertilizing

    How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants

    Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.

    How-to : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials

    Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.

    Light

    Conditions : Partial Shade

    Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.

    Conditions : Part Sun

    Part Sun refers to filtered light, with most sun being received during the afternoon hours. Shade usually occurs during the morning hours.

    Conditions : Light Conditions

    Unless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are considered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun.

    You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site’s true light conditions.

    Conditions : Partial Sun, Partial Shade

    Part sun or part shade plants prefer light that is filtered. Sunlight, though not direct, is important to them. Often morning sun, because it is not as strong as afternoon sun, can be considered part sun or part shade. If you live in an area that does not get much intense sun, such as the Pacific Northwest, a full sun exposure may be fine. In other areas such as Florida, plant in a location where afternoon shade will be received.

    Conditions : Full to Partial Sun

    Full sunlight is needed for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun, but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture of the plant before you buy and plant it!

    Conditions : Light and Plant Selection

    For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a “leggy” stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.

    Watering

    Conditions : Normal

    Normal is defined as regular watering to a depth of 18 inches, but periodically dries out in the top 7 inches between waterings.

    Conditions : Water Conditions

    When selecting Water Conditions, take into account the amount of water this particular area of your site receives naturally. If you have an irrigation system, select the default normal. Some sites may be naturally wet due to boggy areas by down spots or very dry due to a high sand content. By working with your site’s natural conditions, you will reduce maintenance. Do note that even the most drought tolerant plant must first become established, so be willing to provide about 1 inch of water per week during the first year or two.

    Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants

    Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

    Conditions : Moist and Well Drained

    Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.

    Conditions : Outdoor Watering

    Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:

    * The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1′ being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.

    * Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.

    * Don’t wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).

    * Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.

    * Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.

    Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants

    Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.

    Planting

    How-to : Preparing Garden Beds

    Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.

    A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established.

    How-to : Pinching and Thinning Perennials

    Once you plant a perennial, it does not mean that you will enjoy years of maintenance-free gardening. Perennials need to be cared for just like any other plant. One thing that distinguishes perennials is that they tend to be active growers that have to be thinned out occasionally or they will loose vigor.

    As perennials establish, it is important to prune them back and thin them out occasionally. This will prevent them from completely taking over an area to the exclusion of other plants, and also will increase air circulation thereby reducing the incidence of diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew.

    Many species also flower abundantly and produce ample seed. As blooms fade it is advisable to deadhead your plant; that is, to remove spent flowers before they form seed. This will prevent your plants from seeding all over the garden and will conserve the considerable energy it takes the plant to produce seed.

    As perennials mature, they may form a dense root mass that eventually leads to a less vigorous plant. It is advisable to occasionally thin out a stand of such perennials. By dividing the root system, you can make new plants to plant in another area of the garden or give away. Also root pruning will stimulate new growth and rejuvenate the plant. Most perennials may be successfully divided in either spring or fall. Do a little homework; some perennials do have a preference.

    How-to : Preparing Containers

    Containers are excellent when used as an ornamental feature, a planting option when there is little or no soil to plant in, or for plants that require a soil type not found in the garden or when soil drainage in the garden is inferior. If growing more than one plant in a container, make sure that all have similar cultural requirements. Choose a container that is deep and large enough to allow root development and growth as well as proportional balance between the fully developed plant and the container. Plant large containers in the place you intend them to stay. All containers should have drainage holes. A mesh screen, broken clay pot pieces(crock) or a paper coffee filter placed over the hole will keep soil from washing out. The potting soil you select should be an appropriate mix for the plants you have chosen. Quality soils (or soil-less medias) absorb moisture readily and evenly when wet. If water runs off soil upon initial wetting, this is an indicator that your soil may not be as good as you think.

    Prior to filling a container with soil, wet potting soil in the bag or place in a tub or wheelbarrow so that it is evenly moist. Fill container about halfway full or to a level that will allow plants, when planted, to be just below the rim of the pot. Rootballs should be level with soil line when project is complete. Water well.

    How-to : Planting Perennials

    Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees.

    The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant.

    To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

    To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable.

    To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable.

    Problems

    Pest : Spider Mites

    Spider mites are small, 8 legged, spider-like creatures which thrive in hot, dry conditions (like heated houses). Spider mites feed with piercing mouth parts, which cause plants to appear yellow and stippled. Leaf drop and plant death can occur with heavy infestations. Spider mites can multiply quickly, as a female can lay up to 200 eggs in a life span of 30 days. They also produce a web which can cover infested leaves and flowers.

    Prevention and Control: Keep weeds down and remove infested plants. Dry air seems to worsen the problem, so make sure plants are regularly watered, especially those preferring high humidity such as tropicals, citrus, or tomatoes. Always check new plants prior to bringing them home from the garden center or nursery. Take advantage of natural enemies such as ladybug larvae. If a miticide is recommended by your local garden center professional or county Cooperative Extension office, read and follow all label directions. Concentrate your efforts on the undersides of the leaves as that is where spider mites generally live.

    Pest : Slugs and Snails

    Slugs and snails favor moist climates and are mollusks, not insects. They can be voracious feeders, eating just about anything that is not woody or highly scented. They may eat holes in leaves, strip entire stems, or completely devour seedlings and tender transplants, leaving behind tell-tale silvery, slimy trails.

    Prevention and control: Keep your garden as clean as possible, eliminating hiding places such as leaf debris, over-turned pots, and tarps. Groundcover in shady places and heavy mulches provide protection from the elements and can be favorite hiding places. In the spring, patrol for and destroy eggs (clusters of small translucent spheres) and adults during dusk and dawn. Set out beer traps from late spring through fall.

    Many chemical controls are available on the market, but can be poisonous and deadly for children and pets; take care when using them – always read the label first!

    Pest : Aphids

    Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.

    Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes – spring & fall. They’re often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.

    Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products – organic and inorganic – that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

    Fungi : Rusts

    Most rusts are host specific and overwinter on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it will leave a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist.

    Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night. Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant.

    Fungi : Leaf Spots

    Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.

    Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.

    Miscellaneous

    Conditions : Slope Tolerant

    Slope tolerant plants are those that have a fibrous root system and are often plants that prefer good soil drainage. These plants assist in erosion control by stabilizing/holding the soil on slopes intact.

    Glossary : Border Plant

    A border plant is one which looks especially nice when used next to other plants in a border. Borders are different from hedges in that they are not clipped. Borders are loose and billowy, often dotted with deciduous flowering shrubs. For best effect, mass smaller plants in groups of 3, 5, 7, or 9. Larger plants may stand alone, or if room permits, group several layers of plants for a dramatic impact. Borders are nice because they define property lines and can screen out bad views and offer seasonal color. Many gardeners use the border to add year round color and interest to the garden.

    Glossary : Container Plant

    A plant that is considered to be a good container plant is one that does not have a tap root, but rather a more confined, fibrous root system. Plants that usually thrive in containers are slow- growing or relatively small in size. Plants are more adaptable than people give them credit for. Even large growing plants can be used in containers when they are very young, transplanted to the ground when older. Many woody ornamentals make wonderful container plants as well as annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs, and bulbs.

    Glossary : Low Maintenance

    Low maintenance does not mean no maintenance. It does mean that once a plant is established, very little needs to be done in the way of water, fertilizing, pruning, or treatment in order for the plant to remain healthy and attractive. A well-designed garden, which takes your lifestyle into consideration, can greatly reduce maintenance.

    Glossary : Mass Planting

    Mass is one of the elements of design and relates directly to balance. Mass planting is defined as the grouping of three or more of the same type of plants in one area. When massing plants, keep in mind what visual effect they will have. Small properties require smaller masses where larger properties can handle larger masses or sweeps of plants.

    Glossary : Rock Garden

    A rock garden is a garden that mimics an alpine area, having dwarf conifers, low-growing sub-shrubs, perennials and ground cover. Often, the soil itself tends to be gravelly or rocky.

    Glossary : Sandy Loam

    Sandy Loam refers to a soil that drains well, with excellent air space, and evenly crumbled texture when squeezed in the hand. A good workable garden soil that benefits from added fertilizer and proper watering. Dark gray to gray-brown in color.

    Glossary : Loam

    Loam is the ideal soil, having the perfect balance between particle size, air space, organic matter and water holding capacity. It forms a nice ball when squeezed in the palm of the hand, but crumbles easily when lightly tapped with a finger. Rich color ranges between gray brown to almost black.

    Glossary : Evergreen

    Evergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January.

    Glossary : Perennial

    Perennial: traditionally a non-woody plant that lives for two or more growing seasons.

    Glossary : Semi-Evergreen

    Semi-Evergreen: a plant that retains some or most of its foliage throughout the year.

    Glossary : Fragrant

    Fragrant: having fragrance.

    Conditions : Site Conditions

    When setting criteria for site conditions, check boxes that apply to your planting area. This will narrow the search for appropriate plants. Naturally, you’ll need to select a USDA Hardiness Zone. Selecting a specific soil type and pH are just as important as light and water conditions because they enable a search that will find plants best suited to your site.

    Glossary : Plant Characteristics

    Plant characteristics define the plant, enabling a search that finds specific types of plants such as bulbs, trees, shrubs, grass, perennials, etc.

    Glossary : Flower Characteristics

    Flower characteristics can vary greatly and may help you decide on a “”look or feel”” for your garden. If you’re looking for fragrance or large, showy flowers, click these boxes and possibilities that fit your cultural conditions will be shown. If you have no preference, leave boxes unchecked to return a greater number of possibilities.

    Glossary : Foliage Characteristics

    By searching foliage characteristics, you will have the opportunity to look for foliage with distinguishable features such as variegated leaves, aromatic foliage, or unusual texture, color or shape. This field will be most helpful to you if you are looking for accent plants. If you have no preference, leave this field blank to return a larger selection of plants.

    Glossary : Viruses

    Viruses, which are smaller than bacteria, are not living and do not replicate on their own. They must rely on the cellular mechanisms of their hosts to replicate. Because this greatly disrupts the cell’s functionality, outward signs of a viral infection result in a plant disease with symptoms such as abnormal or stunted growth, damaged fruit, discolorations or spots.

    Prevention and Control: Keep virus carriers such as aphids, leafhoppers, and thrips under control. These plant feeding insects spread viruses. Viruses can also be introduced by infected pollen or through plant openings (as when pruning). Begin by keeping the pathogen out of your garden. New plants should be checked, as well as tools and existing plants. Use only certified seed that is deemed disease-free. Plant only resistant varieties and create a discouraging environment by rotating crops, not planting closely related plants in the same area every year.

    Glossary : Fertilize

    Fertilize just before new growth begins with a complete fertilizer.

    Plant Images

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Primula – Primrose, Perennials Guide to Planting Flowers

    Primula – Primrose, Perennials Guide to Planting Flowers

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    Hardy Primroses are showy plants which fit in well with any Spring bedding design. The small flowers are graceful and dainty and the varieties can be so chosen that they will be in bloom from April for a month. Primroses grow from 6 inches to 18 inches high and have light green, hairy leaves. The colors of the hardy sorts range from white to the darkest crimson and yellow. Some of the varieties are double, and others present this appearance because the petals are wavy and crinkled.

    The hardy sorts of Primroses are derived from Primula elatior, P, veris and P. vulgaris. These are much of one type, the flowers being borne in umbels or clusters of six to twelve flowers. There is, however, another interesting species, P. japonica, the Japanese Primrose, which bears the flowers so that one umbel, or cluster, is above another. The colors vary from rich dark crimson through the intermediate tints to white. The petals are of heavy texture and waved. Almost all the varieties of Primroses are worth growing and wherever planted, they increase in beauty and interest with each succeeding year.

    UTILIZE. Primulas make delightful subjects for the rock garden, edging a shady border or against old walls. They naturalize readily along streams, woods or shrubbery and are also suited for growing in porch boxes or in pots. The flowers are fragrant and make splendid cut flowers.

    GENERAL. Primulas are not difficult to grow, yet they reward one for any amount of trouble. One of the first requisites is to keep the soil moist. The plants will die if they are allowed to pass through the dry Summer months without plenty of water. Primroses should be planted in a rich, well-drained soil in a shaded nook in order. to protect the plants from the hot sunshine during the Summer. Slight protection during Winter is needed, such as a light mulching of leaves and straw. In the Fall, if the crowns of any of the plants are above the surface of the soil, these plants should be taken up and reset. Primroses resent a great deal of cultivation; good, rich soil, partially shaded quarters and plenty of moisture are all they need.

    PROPAGATION. Primroses are usually propagated by seeds sown in March in a coldframe or in May to July outdoors in shaded places. The seed should just be scratched into the surface soil and firmed. The plants can also be divided early in Spring or in the Fall.

    Information on 75+ Perennials

    Primula – Primrose, English Cowslip, Oxlip, Polyantha


    Free Garden CatalogFree Garden Catalog

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Growing Primroses the Guarantee Way

    Growing Primroses the Guarantee Way

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    The few requirements for primroses are easily met and are found in practically every garden. They do require shade throughout Mid-America, but this is always available on the north side of the house or in the shade of shrubs, evergreens, or trees. Primroses not only offer a variety of form, size, color, the habit of growth, but bloom (depending upon the variety) over a considerable period of time. Starting with the early Juliae hybrids such as ‘Wanda’ which blooms about pussy willow time, one continues through the mass of bloom of the polyanthus through to the double and triple decked flowers of the Japanese primroses in late May and even early June. Some of the less common helodoxa primroses may even bloom up into July. Not many other plants give such a long period of bloom.

    It’s easy to get started with primroses. Blooming size plants of the more common forms are available from many nurseries. From the Pacific Coast primrose specialists, you can buy flowering size plants of many different kinds. At certain times of the year they offer seedling primroses at very attractive prices. These young vigorous plants take hold quickly and give considerable bloom the following spring. Primroses may be grown from seeds. Although only the more common kinds such as Polyanthus are available from the average seed store, primrose specialists handle a wide range of species and varieties.

    Most primroses are very easy to grow from seeds. Contrary to the recommendations of some primrose specialists, there is no need of freezing the seeds before planting. As long as the temperatures are not up in the 80’s day and night, primrose seeds can be sown either outdoors or indoors. The greatest difficultly in raising primroses from seeds however, is sowing the seeds in the proper sort of seed bed.

    A mixture of equal parts sand and peat moss with the seeds covered 1/16 to 1/18 of an inch with this material seems to be ideal. Since there is no nourishment in this mixture, an inch layer of it can be put on top of a soil mixture made up of equal parts of soil, sand, and peat. Primrose seeds may be sown in early August, although if the temperatures are high it may pay to put the seed pans or flats in a cool cellar until the seeds germinate.

    The seeds may be sown in November for spring germination in the cold frame or can be sown any time during the fall in the greenhouse to be kept growing throughout the winter. Seeds may also be sown outdoors, preferably in a cold the sand and peat seed bed will give wonderful results. I personally have had equally good results sowing the seeds in a greenhouse in October, in the greenhouse in January, the cold frame in March and in early August.

    After the seedlings get their second or third leaves they can be transplanted. Again the soil mixture is very important. You will probably get better root growth if they are put in a bed or in flat rather than in individual pots. Make the soil of equal parts garden loam and peat. Mix a cup of any complete commercial fertilizer with each bushel of the soil mixture.

    The more common vigorous primroses such as Polyanthus can be planted three inches apart. The smaller ones can be put closer together. If, during the spring and early summer, you are planting the primrose seedlings in a cold frame, they should have a mixture of at least equal parts peat and soil and preferably three parts peat to one part soil. There should be a bed of this four to six inches deep for them to grow in. Again the fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed through the bed before planting.

    For many of you who are buying seedlings or growing your own seedlings, better results will be obtained in most gardens by growing them in a cold frame where they can be shaded with muslin (an old sheet) or by a lath shade. If they are kept thoroughly watered throughout the summer and fertilized every two to three weeks with a liquid fertilizer they will make an enormous amount of growth during the summer.

    The root systems will be at least the size of your fist and every bit of it will come out in the peaty mixture that you have them growing in. You will learn from experience as you try to grow some of the less common and more difficult primroses that you may have to keep a number of the species in a shaded cold frame rather than try to plant them in the garden itself.

    Primroses, with the exception of Florindae, helodoxa, Bulleyana, Beesiana, and japonica require a well drained soil. These we have just mentioned, however, will grow in a relatively wet soil. Florindae and japonica will thrive in a bog.

    Before planting any primroses in the garden proper the bed should be prepared by mixing the soil so it is at least half peat to a depth of at least eight inches. As with all other planting, a complete commercial fertilizer should be mixed with the soil.

    Primroses can be planted in early spring, in late spring after they have finished blooming when they are normally divided, or in the early fall. The more common primroses seem to be perfectly hardy and except for a light mulch to prevent heaving they do not require a great deal of winter protection.

    Primroses should be fertilized regularly. In the early spring before growth starts scatter a complete commercial fertilizer such as a 4-12-4 or something similar over the entire bed. Another application can be given in the early fall to stimulate a little fall growth before the ground freezes.

    The worst primrose pest and the one that probably kills more primroses than any other through the Midwest is the spider mite (red spider). Because primrose leaves are close to the ground, it is difficult to contact these mites with the average dust or spray. The use of natural products to control mites is recommended.

    Slugs are always around primroses because they grow in the shade. Either prepared slug bait sold under various trade names. They should be used at least once a month starting with April and continuing through the season until fall freezing. Sow bugs may be controlled by dusting or spraying with chlordane.

    Now we are confronted with the problem of knowing what primroses to grow. In the past the English were considered as having the best primroses. But today it is interesting to know that in England the florists using primroses for cut flowers are growing not their own hybrids but those of our own Pacific Coast primrose specialists. They are hybrid Polyanthus.

    There is no question but that the bulk of primroses in your garden will be Polyanthus. The range of color is from white to cream to yellow to orange to pink to red to purple to blue. The flowers are from one half inch in ordinary ones up to silver dollar size in the improved strains. They may be purchased as mixed plants or according to colors. The same is true of the seeds. There is nothing more showy in a spring garden than Polyanthus primroses. They are usually perfectly hardy and given the proper soil and other conditions they will multiply.

    Japanese primroses are seldom grown to the extent that they should be although they are just as easy to grow. They do not multiply as much as the Polyanthus, but their 18-24 inch spikes of white, pink, or red flowers are magnificent. If you have a wet poorly drained shaded spot in your yard they will thrive there. They are very fast growing from seeds.

    Somewhat similar to the Japanese primroses with more delicate colors are Bulleyana and Beesiana. They do not seem to be quite so hardy or as easy to grow as japonica.

    Auriculas are very different from their sister primroses. They have smooth leaves that look almost like small cabbage leaves. The flowers come in cream, pale yellow, lavender and purple. They are relatively easy to grow from seeds, but in many gardens will not be as permanent. Personally, I find that they winter better in the cold frame, then they can be put out into the beds in the spring where they can be seen and enjoyed.

    Primula denticulata has rather wide spreading leaves and a little compact head of lavender flowers in the early spring. It is a good grower and easy to grow. In the cooler climates, it may develop into sizable clumps. Others may find that they are not quite as permanent as the Polyanthus.

    by Gordon Milne

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Simple Ways To Repair and Replenish Your Yard After a Hot Summer

    Simple Ways To Repair and Replenish Your Yard After a Hot Summer

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    Many parts of the country reached record heat levels this summer. Whether this year’s summer weather left you with brown patches of grass or dried-out flower beds, now is the time to begin repairing and replenishing. Waiting until next spring to start over can leave you with a huge project. Instead, you might consider completing a few of the following projects to get a start on a beautiful, thriving lawn for next year.

    Do a Final Weed Pull

    Fall is the perfect time to go through your yard and pull any remaining weeds. While you shouldn’t have as many weeds as you did during spring or summer, some weeds will continue growing into the fall months. Waiting to pull these weeds until spring gives them time to germinate, which means they could come back stronger than ever. In fact, fall may be the best time of the year to deal with difficult weeds, like Creeping Charlie or Dandelion.

    Complete a Thorough Yard Cleanup

    Lawn furniture and decor can block sunlight and rain from reaching parts of your lawn. Putting your outdoor furniture away a little early gives you time to repair these damaged parts of your lawn through other techniques, like core aeration and lawn seeding. Go through your yard and remove all furniture, decorations, branches, and garbage. 

    Make sure you also clean up any garden beds to prevent weeds from spreading to other parts of your lawn. This is also a good time to go through your yard, trim back any hanging branches, and clean out the gutters. Otherwise, the broken branches or extra leaves will eventually make it to your lawn, adding even more damage. A well-maintained lawn now means you’ll be ready to enjoy the outdoors as soon as better weather returns.

    Schedule Your Core Aeration Appointment

    A core aeration appointment is one of the best ways to repair your lawn after a long, dry, hot summer. Lawn aeration services involve loosening compacted soil, which allows more nutrients, water, and oxygen to reach the grass’s roots, helping them to thrive. Schedule your core aeration appointment as soon as possible to ensure you get it done before winter comes.

    Overseeding is also a good idea, especially in excessively damaged parts of your lawn or areas with thin grass. Lawn aeration pulls plugs from your grass, which makes room for essential nutrients to reach the roots. Adding seeds during this time also ensures they’re able to reach deep into the roots, which encourages better growth.

    Water Your Lawn and Then Water More

    It’s also a good idea to continue watering your lawn, especially after aeration and seeding services. If you live in an area with high fall rainfall, you might not have to water as frequently. However, it’s important to ensure that your newly planted seeds have ample water to grow into a thriving lawn.

    Plan Next Year’s Landscaping Schedule

    Fall is also a good time to evaluate your lawn goals and to put a landscaping plan in place for next spring. Spring will come fast, and before you know it, it’ll be time to begin working toward your landscaping goals. Whereas fall is the best time for lawn aeration and seeding services, spring is when you’ll want to complete a thorough yard cleanup and remove debris. Spring is also an excellent time for fertilizing your lawn.

    Keep Mowing Your Lawn

    Avoid putting your lawn mower away too early. Keep your lawn mower handy until your area gets its first frost. As a general rule, your last lawn mowing should be somewhere between October and November, but this may vary depending on the current weather and your location. Ideally, you want your lawn to be between two and two and a half inches after your last cutting. Continue cutting to this length until winter arrives. This grass length is perfect for surviving winter. Anything shorter and your lawn roots can be exposed to freezing temperatures. Anything longer, and your lawn is at risk of yard diseases.

    Give It Time

    Repairing damaged lawns takes time. The cooler weather that comes with fall should help repair some damage. However, lawns with more excessive damage may require services like professional lawn aeration or seeding.

    Excessive heat, increased foot traffic, and summer pests can wreak havoc on your lawn during the summer months. The good news is that fall is the best time to begin repairing some of that damage. Taking steps to repair dried, damaged grass now can minimize your spring cleanup needs while ensuring you can begin enjoying your yard as soon as the warmer weather returns.

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    Frederick Leeth

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  • How to Propagate Ivy from Cuttings | Gardener’s Path

    How to Propagate Ivy from Cuttings | Gardener’s Path

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    Ivy (Hedera spp.) makes an awesome houseplant. Its trailing vines are an attractive addition to any indoor space and it’s a pretty easy plant to grow.

    Instead of paintings, my mother liked to decorate the walls of our living room with ivy. This living art brought nature to our home and brightened our indoor space – a welcome sight during our long Canadian winters.

    This climbing plant is also extremely versatile – you can train it into a topiary or allow its trailing vines to cascade over furniture. It does well in low to medium humidity, cool temperatures, and bright indirect light.

    A vertical shot of an ivy plant in a terra cotta pot sitting on a white table. There is green and white text in the center and bottom of the frame.A vertical shot of an ivy plant in a terra cotta pot sitting on a white table. There is green and white text in the center and bottom of the frame.

    We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission.

    In our guide to growing English ivy (Hedera helix), we discuss how to cultivate these plants in your home.

    In this article, we’ll talk about propagation.

    Propagating ivy from cuttings is an easy method to produce more plants. There are two ways you can do this – by rooting in medium or in water.

    Here’s what we’ll cover: 

    How to Propagate Ivy Cuttings

    Getting Started

    Before you take your cuttings and get started on this project, you’ll need to gather your supplies.

    You’ll need:

    • A healthy plant
    • Clean knife, scissors, or shears
    • Propagation pots
    • Propagation media
    • Pencil or dowel
    • Rooting hormone (optional)
    • Glass jar for rooting in water (if applicable)

    Once your cuttings have taken root, you’ll also need potting soil and a container to transplant your new plants into.

    Rooting in media is the preferred method of propagating cuttings since it is more likely to succeed than rooting in water.

    A horizontal shot of a woman's hands holding a sprig of common ivy. Several more cuttings are propagating in a transparent glass of water.A horizontal shot of a woman's hands holding a sprig of common ivy. Several more cuttings are propagating in a transparent glass of water.

    Start by preparing your propagation container and rooting medium. Choose a pot or propagation tray that will fit the desired number of stems.

    For example, if you use a four-inch pot, it can hold two cuttings. You will need to make sure the cuttings aren’t crowded or they may end up rotting.

    Fill your container with a pre-moistened propagation medium such as a mix of perlite and coarse sand, or a mixture of peat moss with perlite or sand.

    Using a pencil or dowel, make two-inch-deep holes in the rooting medium where your cuttings will be placed.

    A horizontal shot of a small, square, green plastic pot with potting soil almost to the rim. In the center of the pot is a blue pencil getting ready to poke a hole in the soil.A horizontal shot of a small, square, green plastic pot with potting soil almost to the rim. In the center of the pot is a blue pencil getting ready to poke a hole in the soil.
    Photo by Alicja Szubert.

    Choose a healthy shoot and look for a leaf node – the place where a leaf attaches to a stem. This is a good location for new roots to form.

    Ivy also has aerial roots along its stem close to leaf nodes – these roots help it to climb trees and other structures in nature.

    For propagation, stem sections that contain these adventitious roots have an even better chance of rooting than stem sections without them.

    Using a clean knife or other tool, take a four- to six-inch cutting, right below a leaf node.

    Cuttings six inches or shorter are ideal because the resulting plant will be bushy rather than leggy. Take off all the leaves from the bottom two inches.

    A horizontal shot of a hand holding a metal ruler and measuring a branch of an ivy plant.A horizontal shot of a hand holding a metal ruler and measuring a branch of an ivy plant.
    Photo by Alicja Szubert.

    At this point, you can choose whether to use rooting hormone or not. Your chances of success will be greater if you opt to use it.

    If using, pour a small amount of rooting hormone powder into a container. Place the bottom inch of the stem in the rooting hormone and swirl it around to coat the base of the stem.

    Lightly tap the cutting against the container to get rid of any excess powder.

    A horizontal shot of a hand holding a stem cutting. On the wooden table to the right is another small stem section.A horizontal shot of a hand holding a stem cutting. On the wooden table to the right is another small stem section.
    Photo by Alicja Szubert.

    If you find the powder isn’t sticking to your cutting, you can try wetting the bottom of the stem, tapping to get rid of excess water, then repeating the steps above with rooting powder.

    Place your cuttings into the premade holes in the propagation medium, trying not to wipe off the rooting hormone as you do. Gently pat down the soil around the stems so they stay upright.

    Keeping your cuttings covered will help decrease water loss. If you use a propagation tray as your rooting container, then you can easily cover it with a plastic dome to keep the environment humid.

    If you use a pot, put it in a plastic bag and tie it up or put a plastic bag upside down over your pot.

    A horizontal shot of a small black nursery pot with two small ivy cuttings sticking out of the soil in the top. Over the entire pot is an inverted ziplock bag.A horizontal shot of a small black nursery pot with two small ivy cuttings sticking out of the soil in the top. Over the entire pot is an inverted ziplock bag.
    Photo by Alicja Szubert.

    Keep the pots in a location with bright, indirect light and ensure that the soil remains consistently moist.

    After six to eight weeks, you can check if your cuttings have rooted by gently tugging them. If they resist, they are rooted!

    If you want to be sure, you can try carefully lifting out the plant with a pencil or other tool. There should be a few inch-long roots present before you pot up the cuttings. New leaf development is also an indication that they have rooted.

    Potting up your cuttings instead of keeping them in the propagation medium ensures your new plant gets off to the best start.

    A horizontal shot of a small ivy plant with white edged leaves in a small, black nursery pot sitting on a wooden table.A horizontal shot of a small ivy plant with white edged leaves in a small, black nursery pot sitting on a wooden table.
    Photo by Alicja Szubert.

    ​​Choose a small container for each rooted cutting – a four- to five-inch pot should do – with drainage holes.

    Fill it with a pre-moistened potting soil that retains water well, make a hole the size of the root ball, and set your plant so that the top of the root ball is an inch below the top of the container. Backfill with soil.

    Water the soil until the extra water flows out the bottom of the pot. Then put a saucer under your pot and place it in a sunny spot out of direct light. Now sit back and marvel at your new ivy plant!

    Rooting in Water

    An aesthetically pleasing way to root ivy is in water ​​– a decorative glass vase or even a water glass filled with stems looks beautiful. Plus, you’ll see the new roots forming through the clear glass.

    A horizontal shot of a jelly jar of water on a kraft paper lined table. In the jar are two cuttings of an ivy plant.A horizontal shot of a jelly jar of water on a kraft paper lined table. In the jar are two cuttings of an ivy plant.

    Since they were rooted in water, these cuttings won’t have had time to develop the root hairs they will need to absorb water from soil.

    This means they have less chance of survival than those propagated in media. However, it’s still a simple and fun way to create more plants, so it’s definitely worth a try.

    With a clean blade take a four- to six-inch cutting measuring from the tip of the stem and cut just below a leaf node.

    A horizontal close up of a woman's hands holding a sprig of ivy in one hand and snipping the plant with red pruning shears with the other hand.A horizontal close up of a woman's hands holding a sprig of ivy in one hand and snipping the plant with red pruning shears with the other hand.
    Photo by Alicja Szubert.

    Leaving at least two or three leaves at the top, remove the rest of the leaves from the bottom three inches of the cutting. No leaves should be in the water or even touching the water.

    Then, simply place the stems in three inches of water in a glass or a jar and find a home for them near a north-facing window or in indirect light.

    You can put your cuttings together in one container or in individual containers.

    There are some beautiful decorative fixtures for propagating in water like this one available via Amazon.

    Hanging Propagation Stations

    Change the water every few days or when you see it turning cloudy to prevent algae or bacteria buildup.

    After a few weeks, you’ll see the new roots forming. Wait until these are about an inch or two long before moving on to the next step.

    For the cuttings’ new home, find a pot with drainage holes that is just big enough for the root system – a four- to five-inch container should provide the roots ample room.

    Using a pre-moistened water retentive potting soil, fill the pot with potting soil up to an inch below the rim of the container.

    Create a hole in the soil, and gently set your rooted cutting inside, ensuring that the top of the root system is level with the soil surface.

    Fill in any gaps with the potting soil, firming it down to keep the stem upright and ensure contact between the soil and root system. Water the soil until the water flows out under the bottom of the pot to get rid of any air pockets.

    Increase humidity around your plant by covering the pot with a plastic bag, making sure the bag doesn’t interfere with the foliage. After a few days, open the bag slowly – a little more each day – to get the young plant used to the new environment.

    After a week or so, remove the bag and set your new ivy plant in a location with bright, indirect light and enjoy!

    Worth the Wait

    If you want to increase your houseplant collection, propagating ivy cuttings is an easy way to add to your indoor jungle.

    Two months may seem like a long time to wait for ivy to root, but rooting in water means you’ll have a beautiful display that is sure to catch the eye in the meantime.

    A horizontal close up of white-edged ivy leaves.A horizontal close up of white-edged ivy leaves.

    Rooting in medium is simple and sure to give you a strong new plant to enjoy. So either way you choose, it’s worth the wait!

    Are you growing ivy? Have you tried propagation? Tell us about it in the comments section below.

    And for more information about growing houseplants, check out these guides next:

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    Alicja Szubert

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  • 12 of the Best, Most Reputable Nature and Gardening Apps – FineGardening

    12 of the Best, Most Reputable Nature and Gardening Apps – FineGardening

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    We live in an era when technology largely rules the roost. At every turn we’re bombarded by new electronic devices, apps, and functionality ­intended to make our lives better, or at least to make some things easier. However, I question that any time I’m troubleshooting software problems, rebooting devices, or talking to customer service to resolve a technical difficulty. Despite these pitfalls, there’s one area of tech that I find myself increasingly impressed with and excited about—nature and gardening apps.

    These digital applications for smartphones have put powerful tools right at our fingertips. Although there’s something wonderful about opening a reference book to discover the identity of a mystery insect, digital apps can cut your investigation time from hours down to minutes. Plus, because digital databases can be populated and updated faster than books, it’s likely that the app info is more current.

    Another interesting aspect about some of these apps is that they’re community-science supported, which means that the users can help increase the scientific knowledge base by reporting their observations. For example, an app user can relay that they spotted an invasive weed or bird species in their area, which helps scientists and other users know the species’ range or that it’s on the move.

    There are many different types of gardening and nature apps to choose from, with the most popular being in the area of identification. The following are major categories to search for in your smartphone’s app store the next time you’re curious about something in the garden or you have a problem to solve. You might consider searching garden design, plant maintenance/care, and vegetable garden planning as well—because I guarantee there’s an app for those too.

     


    Join the conversation

    What is your favorite gardening app? Your gardening community would love to know. If you’re a Fine Gardening All Access member, visit our forum to share your favorite app with fellow gardeners on the Gardening Answers online forum. Visit by clicking here!

     

    See more:

    Smart Watering Tools

    Irrigation Gizmos and Gadgets

    There’s a Garden App for That

     


    Reputable Plant Identification Apps

    Ever fall in love with a plant while walking through the neighborhood or on a hike and have no clue what it is? Or do you have a bothersome mystery weed you think might also be an invasive? Plant identification apps are terrific in such situations. With the snap of a photo on your phone, you can be well on your way to identifying that unknown plant. While these apps don’t always drill down to specific cultivars, they can get you close by zeroing in on the species. Once you know that, an online search can reveal varieties of that plant. 

    • PlantNET
    • Plant ID
    • PlantSnap
    • LeafSnap
    • Google Lens

     

    Reputable Garden-Pest and Disease-Identification Apps

    Among the top questions we get from ­readers is “What is wrong with my plant?” Pests and ­diseases are big concerns for gardeners, and identification is the first step in solving the problem. While it is often a good idea to seek identification help and management guidance from your local cooperative extension office, pest and disease ID apps can get you headed in the right management direction or can put your mind at ease when they reveal that the problem is relatively benign.

    • Agrio
    • Plant Disease Identifier
    • PictureThis Premium

     

    Reputable Wildlife-Identification Apps

    Many gardeners get just as excited about the wildlife in their gardens as they do about the plants—especially when it comes to birds and butterflies. Lucky for us, there are also apps for identifying our winged visitors and other forms of wildlife, such as amphibians. Some apps can identify birds not only by appearance but also by song. Likewise, apps that help identify butterflies can distinguish them in both their caterpillar and adult stages. And if you’re trying to figure out the bad bugs or pests, you can use some wildlife apps for that also.

    • Seek by iNaturalist 
    • Merlin Bird ID by Cornell Lab
    • Leps by Fieldguide
    • Picture Insect

     


    Jennifer Benner is content editor for Fine Gardening. She has a bachelor’s degree in horticulture from The Ohio State University.

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  • Nitrogen-Fixer Fail! Adding Mimosa Leaves Decreased Plant Growth | The Survival Gardener

    Nitrogen-Fixer Fail! Adding Mimosa Leaves Decreased Plant Growth | The Survival Gardener

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    Adding mimosa leaves as a fertilizer to a bed didn’t increase plant growth. Instead, it seems to have stunted it.

    A couple months ago we set up a test where we added mimosa (Albizia julibrissin) leaves to one bed, with a control bed next to it. Then we planted a variety of brassicas, including mustard, pak choi and cauliflower. Interestingly, the bed with the mimosa leaves has done worse than the one without.

    We got the original idea for using mimosa leaves as fertilizer from a book titled Restoring the Soil by author Roland Bunch. In that book, Bunch describes using fresh Gliricidia sepium leaves as a fertilizer by burying them next to growing crops.

    We decided to do the same thing with mimosa.

    Here’s what we found:

    While watching that video, James asked in the live comments section:

    Albizia julibrissin might have some use as a nitrogen-fixer due to the species below-ground nodulation; however, using the high-protein leaves to fertilize a garden bed was not effective. We have used alfalfa as fertilizer before and planted right away, which gave us good results, so the problem isn’t because we were “burying leaves” and soaking up the nitrogen in the soil. The nitrogen in these leaves would preclude that anyways. Burying high-carbon materials can be a problem, not buying “green” composting materials.

    There is another issue going on here. My guess is that mimosa is allelopathic and suppressed the growth.

    Allelopathy in Mimosa

    There is a noticeable difference when the beds are compared side-by-side. It seems there is an allelopathic effect from the leaves which dwarfs brassica growth and induces earlier bolting.

    A reader shared a study claiming A. julibrissin is allelopathic to the invasive “Tree of Heaven:”

    “The current study evaluated the allelopathic potential of the Persian silk tree (Albizia julibrissin) leaf residues on seed germination and biomass attributes of the Tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima) seedlings. An experiment was conducted based on a completely randomized design by eight replications. Experimental treatments consisted of different levels of leaf residues at concentrations of 0%, 2.5%, 5%,and 7.5%.Germination index was used in order to investigate the effect of allelochemicals on seeds germination. In addition, the effect of allelopathic materials on seedling biomass was measured by calculating the parameters of collar diameter, fresh and dry weight of seedlings, root dry weight, number of leaves, seedling weight vigor index and percentages of seedling water content index. The results revealed that seed germination index, seedling dry weight, seedling fresh and dry root weight and seedling weight vigor index significantly decreased at different concentrations of leaf residues compared to control, but the increase in concentration had no significant effect on these attributes. But higher concentrations of leaf residues had stronger inhibitory effects on seedling collar diameter, fresh seedling weight and the number of leaves per seedling. The present study clearly proved the allelopathic effects of the Persian silk tree (Albizia julibrissin) leaf residues on biomass attributes of the Tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima) seedlings. In addition, the Persian silk tree (Albizia julibrissin) leaf residues can be used to control the irregular growth of Tree of heaven seed as an invasive species, as well as weed management in agroforestry systems which require further studies.”

    Note that it reduces biomass, and that it was the “leaf residue” which did so.

    I’ve used mimosa as a chop-and-drop tree for a decade or more, yet it appears this might not be a good idea. This is why we do backyard science experiments, instead of just assuming that a method or a species will work.

    WITH MIMOSA:

    WITHOUT MIMOSA:

    Remarkable!

    Looks like I’ll just have to plant more comfrey.

    Share this post!

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  • The Ultimate Guide to Container-Garden Design – FineGardening

    The Ultimate Guide to Container-Garden Design – FineGardening

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    If you are ready to take your container design to the next level, join us for this course with Barbara Libner, who has been designing stunning containers professionally for over two decades. Barbara will walk you through every step of creating the perfect container as she shares her tips and techniques for better plant combinations, including numerous examples from her own designs and recipes you can follow on your own. Explore the concepts of color, texture, balance, and repetition as you learn to transform your own containers from ordinary to extraordinary. You can view each class on demand and then dive into an online forum where you can share ideas with other course participants and get your questions answered by Barbara herself.


    In this course, you will learn how to:

    • Determine what kind of approach is right for your space and your aesthetic
    • Choose a container with the best color and material for your space
    • Develop a planting color scheme that thrills
    • Get the most bang for your buck when shopping for plants
    • Choose between seasonal or year-round interest
    • Get your plants off to the best start when planting
    • Maintain your creation for maximum longevity
    • Plan for seasonal swaps to keep the show going

    Lesson 1

    This initial class will get you familiarized—or refreshed—on the basics of designing a container garden. Barbara will cover why it’s aesthetically important to add containers to your garden and how you can use them to improve your landscape and/or complement your home. She will also dig into choosing the best containers and soil mixes and will explain how to assess the conditions in your garden that will determine what plants will thrive in your containers.
     

    Lesson 2

    Have you always wondered why the container gardens in magazines look so much better than the ones you create at home? In this class, Barbara will share the secrets to putting plants together for incredible visual appeal. She will cover choosing color palettes, ways to add contrast and interest, and how to use foliage to maximize the composition’s impact. Finally, all that theory will be put to practical use with Barbara’s special formula for the perfect container: the Fabulous Five.
     

    Lesson 3

    This class will teach you how to keep your containers looking stunning for months by choosing the best plants and caring for them as they grow and develop. Barbara will also cover the best ways to embrace seasonality—how to choose plants for multiseason interest and how to swap out plants in a cost-efficient manner. Barbara will also cover features that keep a container looking beautiful every month of the year (yes, even in winter).
     


    About the Presenter

    Barbara Libner accidentally turned a lifelong passion for plants and design into a career when a seasonal nursery job became a full-time, decades-long journey of botanical discovery. She specializes in four-season containers for an array of different climates. When not designing containers or being a general plant nerd, she is the lead visual merchandiser for Ravenna Gardens, an independent urban garden center in Seattle. Barbara is a true artist who works with color, texture, and habit to craft potted masterpieces. Her background in art history has trained her to identify and accentuate certain design elements, prioritizing the form of each plant she works with over its color. In fact, if you ask Barbara, it’s the juxtaposition of the different types of foliage in a container planting that gives it long-lasting appeal.

     

    Register Now!






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  • Episode 147: Great Native Grasses – FineGardening

    Episode 147: Great Native Grasses – FineGardening

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    If you like the beauty and impact that ornamental grasses bring to a garden design, you will love the many shapes, forms and colors that North American native species offer. Whether you need a practical groundcover, a dramatic focal point, or an airy filler to knit a matrix planting together, Danielle, Carol, and guest Paula Gross have some options that will inspire you to start your spring shopping list now.

    Expert guest: Paula Gross is a horticulture educator at Central Piedmont Community College and co-author of The Southeast Native Plant Primer with Larry Mellichamp and Will Stuart.

     

    Danielle’s Plants

    Blue-eyed grass

    Blue-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium angustifolium, Zones 4-9)

    ‘Carousel’ little bluestem (credit: Jim Ault)
    ‘Carousel’ little bluestem (credit: Jim Ault)

    ‘Carousel’ little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium ‘Carousel’, Zones 3-9)

    ‘Northwind’ switchgrass
    ‘Northwind’ switchgrass

    ‘Northwind’ switchgrass (Panicum virgatum ‘Northwind’, Zones 4-9)

    ‘River Mist’ Northern sea oats (credit: Walters Gardens, Inc.)
    ‘River Mist’ Northern sea oats (credit: Walters Gardens, Inc.)

    ‘River Mist’ Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium ‘River Mist’, Zones 5-8)

     

    Carol’s Plants

    Pennsylvania sedge
    Pennsylvania sedge

    Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica, Zones 4–8)

    Rose muhly
    Rose muhly

    Rose muhly (Muhlenbergia reverchonii, Zones 5–9)

    Purpletop
    Purpletop

    Purpletop (Tridens flavus, Zones 4–9)

    ‘Blonde Ambition’ gramma grass (Bouteloua gracilis ‘Blonde Ambition’, Zones 3–10)

     

    Expert’s Plants

    Pink muhly
    Pink muhly

    Pink muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris, Zones 5-9)

    Little bluestem
    Little bluestem

    Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium, Zones 3-9)

    Splitbeard bluestem
    Splitbeard bluestem

    Splitbeard bluestem (Andropogon ternarius, Zones 6-10)

    Switchgrass
    Switchgrass

    Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum, Zones 4-9)

    Indian grass
    Indian grass

    Indian grass (Sorghastrum nutans, Zones 4-9)

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  • Variegated leaves of plants win gardeners over

    Variegated leaves of plants win gardeners over

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    It seems, as the numbers of people getting into gardening still rises, the same applies to the numbers of new plant introductions. With so many plants being introduced every year, there are always the variegated varieties that peak my interest. Not only is a beautiful flower produced on these plants, but the interest of the plant itself is held throughout the entire growing season. The plant’s white or yellow edges cause a different look than the all-green variety, as well as having the capability of brightening up an area without even being in bloom. These plants are just as hardy as their green cousins, so no other care is needed to grow them.

    Some variegated varieties that are suitable in many different locations are:

    Hosta – This hardy plant is so versatile and almost bomb-proof. It will grow well in full-shade to full-sun, in the poorest of soils and in moist or dry areas. If grown in dry soil, it does appreciate a large soaking once every 4 to 6 weeks, but otherwise no care is needed. Slugs create the only damage to the plants, making holes in the leaves, but this is easily fixed by laying crushed eggshells or used coffee grounds on the soil underneath. The most commonly seen is “Hosta marginata” with the white variegation on the leaves, but more striking is the golden variegated “Golden Tiara”.

    Variegated Jacob’s Ladder – This plant certainly makes your head turn when you walk by. The leaves are so finely cut and with the variegated edges, it surely is in a class by itself. As it is a fairly new introduction, don’t be surprised to pay more for it, but it is worth planting even as a specimen plant. It grows best in part-shade and well-drained soil, but will tolerate more clay if it is given. Soft blue bell-like flowers are formed loosely in a spike that emerge from the center above the leaves.

    Variegated Brunnera – Also known as “Perennial Forget-Me-Not”, and is a true perennial returning a little larger in size every year. This plant has rough and hairy leaves that are heart shaped, and tiny blue flowers are formed in clusters on the very top of the stems. Being not a large plant at 8 to 12 inches tall, it would be best mass planted in a part-shade location.

    Goldleaf Weigela – This shrub bears crimson pink or red flowers late spring, then the wonderful foliage appears. As the name suggests, its leaves have a golden edge, thus creating a great backdrop for any plants grown in front. This shrub can become very large in size, therefore needing a large area to be planted in. Plant in full sun to part-shade in well-drained soil and it will thrive.

    Dappled Willow – If you have a moisture retentive location, this is a shrub to grow. A neat shrub that is easy to maintain, it grows small white-speckled green leaves along the whispy branches. If the leaves are looked at close enough, it seems as though they have been splattered with white paint. To make it more attractive still, the new growth in the spring has a very pink tone on the tips of the branches, thus seeming from a distance that it is in bloom. It can become large if allowed to grow naturally, but pruning the branches even by half their length doesn’t seem to bother this shrub.

    Silverleaf Dogwood – The red branches of this shrub keeps winter interest in the garden, then when spring arrives the leaves unfurl to bright green with a pure white edge. Almost startling to look at, it certainly brightens any corner it is placed in. It also can be pruned hard, likes a moist site to grown in and does equally well in either shade or sun.

    Many, many more variegated plants are available; either annuals or perennials such as Variegated Geraniums, Variegated Sedum, Variegated Iris, Variegated Money Plant and Variegated Arabis. Certainly any garden can accommodate at least one variegated perennial, annual or shrub, creating beauty and interest in any corner of your garden.

    Press Here!
    Ground cover
    Blubs
    Perfect Garden
    Whats in a name
    Primrose
    Seeds
    Spring
    Spring Planting
    Variegated plants
    Vines
    Ferns
    Unusual perennials
    Blue Flowers
    Containers
    Cuttings
    Glads
    Herbs
    Iris
    Lilies
    Roses
    Rubeckia
    Succulents
    Email: Jennifer Moore


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