When I first started out with orchids, I did what many people do – brought one home from the grocery store, kept it until the flowers fell off, and then tossed it in the trash.
At that time, I didn’t know they could rebloom, and I certainly didn’t know anything about repotting.
In the years that followed, I figured out how to care for my orchids so I could keep them thriving for years.
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I experimented with mounting them, learned how to make them rebloom bigger and better than before, and played around until I found the perfect potting medium.
Just because a plant has some roots coming out of the surface of the soil, that doesn’t mean it needs repotting. But a healthy, happy specimen will require repotting at some point.
As the plants mature, they need more room. In this guide we’ll talk about when and how to repot your orchids. Here’s what I’ll cover:
Here we go:
Before you start your work, be sure to collect your tools so that your plant is disturbed for the shortest amount of time possible.
You’ll need a new container, a pair of sharp scissors, and fresh, clean potting medium. Be sure to wash your scissors in soapy water and wipe them with isopropyl alcohol so you don’t transmit pathogens between plants.
For most species, a commercial orchid bark works well. You can buy premade bark at most specialty nurseries or garden suppliers.
You can also make your own. You’ll need a finely textured fir bark and coarse sphagnum moss, coco coir, or perlite for water retention. Combine three parts of bark to one part whichever water-retentive material you choose.
The American Orchid Society also recommends Aliflor, either alone or combined with bark, because it breaks down more slowly than bark and retains water.
Alifor is a brand name of clay pebbles, which are useful when growing plants that are sensitive to overwatering because the pellets absorb moisture while leaving plenty of space for oxygen around the roots.
You can grab clay pebbles in various quantities at Amazon if you’d like to add these to your growing medium.
You can also add a tablespoon of charcoal to each container. Charcoal inhibits the growth of pathogens that cause root rot.
When to Repot Orchids
Late winter or early spring is the best time to repot your orchids, but you can do it any time of year so long as the plant isn’t flowering.
I recommend that people repot their newly purchased specimens just as soon as they’re done blooming. You never know what media the growers have used to pot your plant.
Some are potted in a bark mixture, which is ideal, but others are grown in sphagnum moss, which is less than ideal because it retains too much water.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
If you’re repotting a newly-purchased specimen, you don’t need to increase the size of the container. You can use the same container, but wipe it out with soapy water first.
You will also know it’s time to change things up when the bark starts to break down.
As the bark crumbles and decomposes, it closes up all those lovely air pockets in the substrate that orchids love so much. If you poke at the bark and it feels soft, starts breaking apart, or is visibly decomposing, it’s time to repot.
If the stem, aerial roots, and leaves start to grow over the side of the pot, it’s probably time to upgrade, as well.
Finally, check out that rootball. If you’re growing in a pot with holes in it, your plant will likely start growing roots out of those holes. They’ll also grow roots out of the surface of the potting media.
These aren’t necessarily a sign that it’s time to repot. However, if the rootball becomes crowded and there isn’t much room between the roots, this is a good indication that it’s time to act.
The Process of Repotting Orchids
The first step is to remove the plant from its container. If you’re growing in a slotted pot, some roots might have grown out of the holes.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
If those roots seem to be stuck, just trim them off with your scissors and then ease the plant out of the pot.
Once you have the plant out of the pot, use your thumbs and fingers to remove the existing potting material from around the roots. Now, examine the rootball.
Healthy roots should be stiff and green, gray, white, or light brown. Soggy or soft growth should be removed, as should any black areas.
Rub off any dry paper sheaths that might be growing along the bulbs to look for pests. They like to cluster in these areas. If you notice anything moving, spray the roots with insecticidal soap.
Now, you’re ready to place the plant in the new pot. Place the root ball in the pot but hold the plant itself so that it will sit with the uppermost roots just above the medium.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
Fill in the pot around the plant with the medium and press it in.
The bark should be fairly well-packed, though you want to be careful not to smash the roots. If you lift the plant at the base without supporting the pot, it should stay in place.
Moisten the medium and put your plant back in its usual spot. If you want to place it somewhere else, wait a few days for the plant to acclimate to the change before introducing it to a different environment.
You might be surprised by how quickly your orchid will grow once it’s in a new container and refreshed potting medium.
It always gives my plants a big boost, and most species seem to be fairly unphazed by the disturbance.
What kind of orchid are you growing? Do you have a moth or a cattleya? What kind of medium do you prefer? Fill us in on the details in the comments section below
In an era where our planet’s health is a paramount concern, green graphic design emerges as a vital fusion of artistic expression and ecological awareness. This innovative approach extends beyond mere aesthetics, integrating environmental responsibility into the core of design practices.
Traditional graphic design, with its reliance on physical materials and energy-intensive processes, has often overlooked its environmental footprint. Green graphic design seeks to rewrite this narrative by adopting practices that are kinder to our planet without compromising on creative brilliance.
Sustainable materials and processes
The heartbeat of green graphic design lies in its choice of materials and processes. Designers are increasingly turning to recycled or sustainably sourced papers, a simple yet powerful shift that significantly reduces the ecological impact.
Eco-friendly printing techniques, utilising soy or vegetable-based inks and sustainable finishes, further reinforce this commitment. The move towards digital alternatives, such as e-brochures or online catalogues, not only curtails paper waste but also opens new avenues for creativity and interaction.
Energy efficiency in graphic design work
Sustainability in graphic design isn’t confined to materials alone; it extends into the realm of technology. The adoption of energy-efficient hardware and software is gaining traction, minimising the energy footprint of design work.
By integrating cloud storage and digital workflows, designers are able to significantly reduce their reliance on physical resources, leading to a more streamlined and environmentally considerate practice.
Design choices for sustainability
When it comes to green graphic design, less can indeed be more. Choosing designs that require less ink and lower energy consumption without sacrificing impact is an art in itself.
The minimalist design approach, characterised by simplicity and elegance, aligns perfectly with eco-friendly principles, proving that aesthetic appeal and environmental responsibility can coexist harmoniously.
Integrating green principles in flyer design
In the context of flyers and flyer templates, green graphic design finds a pertinent application. VistaCreate, a notable graphic design tool, offers a platform where designers can craft visually engaging yet environmentally considerate flyer templates. By utilising digital templates and emphasising electronic distribution, Vista exemplifies how design tools can align with green principles, showcasing that effective marketing and ecological mindfulness can coexist seamlessly.
Eco-friendly packaging design
In the realm of packaging, green graphic design is making remarkable strides. Innovations in sustainable packaging materials are being matched with creative designs that are both functional and visually striking.
Successful eco-friendly packaging designs, balancing brand identity with ecological sensitivity, are becoming showcases of how sustainability can drive innovation.
Digital-first approaches
The push towards a digital-first strategy in graphic design is a game-changer in reducing environmental impact. Emphasising digital media over print not only conserves resources, but also leverages the dynamic capabilities of interactive design. This approach opens up a realm of possibilities, from interactive eBooks to immersive websites, marking a significant shift in how content is consumed and engaged with.
Education and client awareness
An integral part of green graphic design is educating clients about its benefits. Designers have a pivotal role in advocating for sustainable options and their long-term value. This not only fosters a more informed clientele, but also encourages a broader adoption of eco-friendly practices in the industry.
Case studies and success stories
The true testament to the efficacy of green graphic design lies in its success stories. Numerous projects, spearheaded by forward-thinking designers committed to sustainability, have set benchmarks in the industry. These case studies, ranging from small-scale local projects to large corporate campaigns, provide valuable insights and inspiration for aspiring green designers.
Future trends in green graphic design
The future of green graphic design is as promising as it is challenging. Emerging technologies and trends, like biodegradable inks and augmented reality, are poised to further revolutionise this field. Predictions for sustainable design practices point towards a more integrated approach, where ecological considerations are a default rather than an afterthought.
The role of designers in environmental stewardship
As stewards of both creativity and the environment, designers hold a unique position in shaping a sustainable future.
The collective action of the design community, embracing green practices, can have a profound impact on our planet. It’s a call to blend creativity with conscience, ensuring that artistic endeavours contribute positively to the world‘s ecological balance.
Conclusion
Green graphic design isn’t just a trend; it’s a necessary evolution of the design discipline. Designers have the power and responsibility to influence change through their work. By integrating sustainability into creative processes, designers can contribute to a larger movement towards environmental stewardship, proving that great design can, indeed, change the world for the better.
Knowing how and when to prune peppers in mild-winter climates is essential to keeping them healthy and productive for many years.
In mild-winter climates like where I live (low desert of Arizona zone 9b), pepper plants often live for many years. If left to continue growing, plants get spindly and are prone to breaking. Plants also have damage from the infrequent (but still possible) frost events or the extreme heat in the summer.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
When is the best time to prune peppers in mild-winter climates?
Bell pepper plants in February after several frost events.
The weather extremes of very hot summers and occasional frosts in the winter leave my pepper plants a little haggard. I usually prune pepper plants twice a year. Once in the spring (after the danger of frost has passed) and again in the early fall, once temperatures have dropped from the summer heat.
The September pruning of these peppers resulted in an abundant harvest in late December.
If the plants are a manageable size and healthy, you may only need to prune them once a year.
When pruning peppers, you should focus on removing any dead or damaged growth. This will help to encourage the plant to put more energy into producing fruit rather than putting effort into maintaining unhealthy foliage.
You can lightly prune all over, cutting back to just above a node each time.
What is a node?
Nodes are the points on a stem where the buds, leaves, and branching twigs originate. Identify the nodes on pepper plants by noticing where the branches divide.
If more severe pruning is necessary, cut branches to just above where you see new growth beginning, just above a node. Usually, count up from the bottom of the plant and cut just above the 2nd or 3rd node. Pruning to this point allows light to penetrate the bottom of the plant.
You can also prune back long or thin branches, which are more vulnerable to breakage and can become unwieldy.
Make sure to prune all over the plant for the best results.
After pruning, it’s important to fertilize the pepper plant with a balanced organic fertilizer and to water it well.
Within a couple of days, you should see a burst of growth with an abundance of leaves, followed by blossoms and eventually peppers.
What about pruning pepper seedlings?
Central stalk of this seedling was cut outSeveral days later you can see the new growth below the cut
Topping pepper seedlings is often done to encourage pepper plants to have more of a bush habit with stronger stems. To prune your seedlings, cut the main stem to just above a node.
Cut the central stem to just above a node when plant is several inches tallAfter “topping”
Depending on the type of pepper plant you are growing, this may or may not be necessary. Experiment with different kinds of plants in your garden to see if it improves your yield. I generally “top” most of my pepper plants. I’ve had the best results with pruning large peppers like bell peppers.
How long do pepper plants last in mild-winter climates?
When growing pepper plants, you may find that the quantity of peppers decreases after about three years of successful production. This is a sign that it is time to replace the plants. Save seeds from your favorite peppers to start new plants. Plant a new pepper seedling in a different location and enjoy fresh peppers for many years.
If you live in a mild-winter climate, pruning your peppers twice a year can keep your plants healthy and productive for many years. Good luck and happy pruning!
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Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.
In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!
During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.
What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?
Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.
Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
Worm castings from vermicomposting
What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?
A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.
No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin
When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?
If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.
When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).
Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?
Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.
That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farmhere in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.
How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?
Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:
The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
Bin (see options below).
Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.
Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:
The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:
A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.
Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.
Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:
1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.
2. Place the bin in the hole.
3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.
5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.
6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.
7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.
8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.
9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.
10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.
How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?
I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.
You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.
Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.
Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.
What do worms eat?
Good for feeding worms
Avoid feeding worms
Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper
Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.
Greens
Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells
Browns
Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.
Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?
Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.
The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.
The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.
Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket.Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?
Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.
Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.
Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?
Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.
Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?
Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.
Question: Can you add chicken poopto the buckets?
Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.
Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?
Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.
Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?
Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.
Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?
Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.
Question:WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?
Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?
Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.
Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?
Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.
Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?
Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?
Answer:Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?
Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).
Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?
Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.
Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.
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When I first saw the gorgeous blooms on ranunculus flowers, I didn’t think growing them here in the low desert of Arizona was possible. I’m glad I was wrong. Learning how to grow ranunculus is easier than you think.
The stunning rose-like blooms with tissue-thin petals almost don’t look real. Ranunculus blooms come in nearly every color on tall stems. With these five tips, learn how to grow ranunculus (even if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona).
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Ranunculus
1. Plant ranunculus at the right time
Ranunculus grows best in spring-like temperatures of about 55°F with plenty of sunlight.
In zones seven and warmer, there are two planting windows — late fall and again in late winter or early spring. For zones cooler than zone 7, plant in the spring after the danger of frost is passed.
In the low desert of Arizona, plant ranunculus corms from October to November and again from February to March (Presprout corms if planting in February – March)
October 24November 16November 30January 23March 5March 26
Floret’s top choices for ranunculus varieties are the La Belle Series, which includes Salmon, Champagne, Orange, Pink Picotee, and Pastel Mix.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Soak corms before planting
Ranunculus are grown from claw-like ‘corms’ — a swollen underground plant stem that stores the nutrients for the plant until needed. Look for large corms, which have more stored energy and will grow larger with more blooms. I love the ranunculus corms from Renee’s Garden.
Soak the corms in tepid water for 3 to 4 hours (not longer). The corms will absorb the moisture and often double in size.
3. Plant ranunculus correctly
Ranunculus grows best in rich, healthy, well-draining soil with plenty of sunlight. Add several inches of compost and a balanced organic fertilizer to the soil before planting.
Plant corms 2-3 inches deep and about 6 inches apart. Place ranunculus corms in the ground with the claws facing down. Fill the hole back in with soil and water well.
If you live in a wet climate, you may not need to water again until sprouts appear. Too much moisture in the soil may cause the corms to rot.
In dry climates like the low desert, keep soil evenly moist but do not overwater to prevent the corms from rotting.
Overall, ranunculus is an easy plant to grow and is pest and disease-resistant.
Ranunculus needs plenty of sunlight to grow well. Ranunculus grows best in moist soil but does not like overwatering. If soil is not well-draining, ranunculus corms often rot.
SPECIAL NOTE: All parts of ranunculus are poisonous when ingested. The plant sap may cause skin irritation. Poison is not residual in the soil; only the plant is poisonous.
5. Enjoy ranunculus blooms
Corms planted in the fall typically bloom for about six weeks.Spring-planted corms bloom for about four weeks, depending on the weather. Once temperatures heat up, the blooms will stop.
In the low desert of Arizona, you can expect blooms to begin in February for fall-planted corms and continue through May for spring-planted corms.
For the longest vase life (10-12 days!) harvest when buds are colored and “squishy like a marshmallow” but not yet open. If they are harvested after opening, the blooms last about a week. Use a floral preservative to encourage long vase life.
Deadheading plants encourage more blooms.
When blooms finish, and the leaves begin to yellow and die back, cut the foliage off and stop watering. Allow the corms to dry out and go dormant.
If desired, dig up dormant corms and store them in a cool, dry place until it is time to plant next season.
When growing ranunculus for cut flowers, it is best to treat it as an annual and plant new corms each year.
Though the tomatoes and peppers and melons are gone, and the gloriously abundant roots of summer are now stored in the mud room, there is still food in the garden.
At this time of year we’re harvesting the daikons, pak choi, mustard and mizuna we planted two months ago.
We’re also bringing in oregano and rosemary, as well as the African blue basil which somehow managed to dodge the first frost of the year.
We planted an assortment of brassicas in the two test beds we used to see if mimosa leaves could be used as a fertilizer, and those have been bringing us a consistent supply of greens. Some of them are rutabagas, which I didn’t even remember I had planted, so I’ll probably thin some of the greens around them to give them more space to grow. If the weather stays mild enough, we could have greens and radishes all winter, yet that rarely happens here. Though our winters aren’t harsh by northern standards, they do swing erratically in temperature. We’ll get 80-degree weather for a week followed by an overnight plunge into the low 20’s. That wreaks havoc on plants.
It’s rather akin to being on the beach in your bathing suit, then having a snowstorm whip through.
This is what AI thinks that would look like:
We can’t take that sort of a temperature swing, and neither can the plants.
This is why we buy thrift store sheets and blankets and cover our rows on frosty nights. Though some of these greens are known to handle cold weather, they often don’t adapt well to it since it’s usually warm before turning cool.
The greens and herbs we picked this morning will be sautéed with scrambled eggs and bacon. We’re also fermenting daikons and serving them as a side with breakfast.
In the summer, we enjoy endless cucumbers and melons. Now we enjoy rich and delicious greens.
The seasons are a blessing. Just about the time you get bored with something, it finishes and a new crop begins.
We only planted a few beds of greens, but they’re more than enough to keep us from buying any vegetables. We still have months of pumpkins and sweet potatoes to eat, not to mention all the yams we’ve not yet dug!
Rachel just texted to tell me breakfast is ready… but before I run, did anyone else plant a fall garden?
If you’re like us, you have a love/hate relationship with Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales. While we sure do enjoy a good discount, the unabashed consumerism of this time of year can be off-putting. So here’s a reminder to buy less and buy better. With that in mind, we’ve gathered the best sales from some of our favorite brands and retailers. And remember to consider Small Business Saturday and pop into your local independent stores this weekend.
Above: Hay has great-looking outdoor furniture and now you can get it all for 25 percent less through Nov. 28.
Our favorite new store, Gardenheir, is offering 15 percent off sitewide with code THANKS. Tip: Be sure to check out its chic collection of gardening apparel.
Barebones‘s 25 percent off sale is good through Nov. 24, at 11:59 pm MST; use code EARLYBLACKFRIDAY.
Hawkins New York is hosting a sale from Wednesday, Nov. 22 through Monday, Nov. 27 at midnight PST: Take 20 percent off sitewide (including a really great collection of planters) with code LETSGO.
We love Niwaki’s well-made tools. In honor of Black Friday, the Japanese company is offering free shipping to its North American customers with a minimum purchase of $30.
From Nov. 24 through Nov. 26, get 15 percent off sitewide at Garrett Wade with code FRIDAY; on Monday, Nov. 27, enjoy 15 percent off and free shipping with minimum purchase of $125 (use code CYBER).
Take 20 percent off sitewide and 30 percent off orders of $300+ at Food52, which has a robust collection of products for the patio and garden, as well as holiday decorations. Use code CYBER at checkout; offer lasts from Monday, Nov. 20 through Tuesday, Nov. 28. Some exclusions apply.
Business & Pleasure‘s fun umbrellas, beach chairs, towels and more are all 30 percent off with code BFCM30.
Outdoor furniture store Neighbor is offering a 20 percent discount sitewide through Nov. 28.
Horne is offering up to 30 percent off select brands, including but not limited to Skagerak (indoor and outdoor accessories are 15 percent off from Nov. 13 through Nov. 29).
Looking for an outdoor rug? Revival‘s sale is from Friday, Nov. 17 through Nov. 27: 10 percent off on purchases up to $499; 15 percent off on purchases $500-$999; 20 percent off purchases $1000-$1999; and 25 percent off purchases $2000+. (Excludes gift cards.)
Annie Selke is offering 25 percent off everything on their site with code CYBERSALE.
Last but not least, Permanent Collection is offering 20 percent off sitewide (with the exclusion of the Platter Project); no code needed. (Their famous Egg Spoon—rarely discounted—is 20 percent off).
We’re visiting with Marilyn Regnier today. We’ve visited her garden before (Marilyn’s Missouri-Inspired Garden in Minnesota), and today she’s joining in the fun of looking back and sharing the highlights of her 2023 gardening season.
I garden in Minnetonka Beach, Minnesota, Zone 4, and every spring I make a trip to the Minneapolis Farmer’s Market to purchase most of my annual plants.
The rose pink geraniums (Pelargoniumhybrid, Zones 9–11 or as an annual), yellow lantana (Lantana camara, Zones 8–11 or as an annual), and moss roses (Portulaca grandiflora, annual) flourished.
Dahlias (Dahlia variabilis, Zones 8–11 or as a tender bulb), pentas (Pentas lanceolata, Zones 10–11 or as an annual), and petunias (Petunia‘Tidal Wave Silver’, Zone 9–11 or as an annual)
I brought some of my peonies (Paeonia hybrids, Zones 3–8) into the house, the white one with red splashes (‘Festiva Maxima’) being the oldest and most fragrant.
Purple fountain grass (Pennisetum setaceum ‘Rubrum’, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) and creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’, Zones 3–9) add height and flowing spillage to this tall pot.
A chartreuse sedum, purple heliotrope (Heliotrope arborescens, Zones 10–11 or as an annual), and ‘Butterfly’ marguerite daisies (Argyranthemum frutescens ‘Butterfly’, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) complete this bed.
My gardening frog “Leonard” always carries a small pot full of petunias.
A cement pot that I always fill with annuals sits on the wall area.
This final image of the season includes Hydrangea‘Endless Summer’ (Zones 5–9) blooms.
I hope you liked my 2023 gardening season. I enjoyed the color combination so much I might have to plant it again.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Mammillaria is the genus name of an attractive type of succulent cactus plant native mostly to the southwest United States (southern New Mexico and western Texas) and Mexico, with some having naturalized in the Caribbean.
There are around 300 species within the genus Mammillaria.
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This plant is also known by its common name, Nipple or Pincushion Cactus plant.
Many of the individual Mammillaria species look so much alike as to be almost indistinguishable. Others vary greatly in appearance and cultivation needs.
In this article, we discuss the care and uses of this interesting plant and share advice on selecting the right mammillaria cactus types of the many species available for your home, greenhouse, patio, yard, garden, or windswept desert property.
Mammillaria Cactus Quick Care Tips
Botanical Name: Mammillaria crinita
Common Name(s): Pincushion Mammillaria Cactus
Synonyms: Mammillaria crinita subsp. crinita
Family & Origin: Cactaceae family, native to Mexico
Growability: Easy to grow
Grow Zone: USDA zones 9-11
Size: Grows up to 6 inches tall and 6 inches wide
Flowering: Produces pink or white flowers in the spring
Light: Needs bright, direct sunlight
Humidity: Prefers low humidity
Temperature: Thrives in warm temperatures between 60-80°F
Soil: Well-draining soil mix
Water: Water sparingly, allowing soil to dry out between waterings
Fertilizer: Fertilize once a month during the growing season with a cactus fertilizer
Pests & Diseases: Susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, and root rot
Propagation: Propagate through offsets or seeds
Plant Uses: Makes a great addition to a cactus or succulent garden, can also be grown indoors as a houseplant.
What Are Cactus Mammillaria Related To?
The pincushion cactus is often confused with several other types of small cacti (e.g., Neolloydia, Epithelantha, and Coryphantha). This confusion has led to as many as 400 different species being mistakenly identified in the past.
A great deal of meticulous research in the field, along with genetic analysis has gone into sorting out this jumble.
Now botanists are confident that the genus contains around 300 species.
You won’t find most of the many species offered in nurseries, garden centers, and shops.
The varieties for sale as houseplants are typically small and grow close to the ground in the wild.
To recognize a true Mammillaria cactus, look for its spirally arranged, succulent nipple-shaped tubercles.
Interestingly, the spines of true cactus Mammillaria are arranged according to the Fibonacci sequence.
This means that each row of tubercles is equal in number to the sum of the two rows immediately above it.
When you view the pincushion cacti from above, you should notice that it has a very organized and orderly appearance.
Growing Mammillaria Cactus Facts
Size & Growth vary greatly depending on the species. Some Mammillaria top out at an inch high, others at a foot high.
Flowering & Fragrance vary greatly from one pincushion cactus to another. All grow in a crown-like formation surrounding the top of the plant. Moreover, it has central spines or cushion-like areoles of blooms and is about 0.4 to 8″ inches in diameter stems.
Light & Temperature: Generally speaking, Mammillarias like warm temperatures (50° to 85° degrees Fahrenheit) and bright light. It thrives in full sun or partial shade exposure. It needs at least 2 to 6 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Watering & Feeding should be sparse year-round. During the spring, summer, and early fall, water your Cactus mammillaria thoroughly when the soil is almost dry.
During the winter, reduce watering by half. Provide a half-strength feeding of a balanced cactus fertilizer at the beginning of spring and toward mid-summer.
Potting Soil & Transplanting: The pincushion cactus prefers a fairly rich, well-draining cactus mix. Repot or transplant infrequently, as these plants do well when slightly root-bound.
Grooming is Simple: Keep an eagle eye out for any signs of rot, and cut it away immediately if you notice it. Otherwise, separate and repot pups when they become overcrowded.
USDA Hardiness Zone: Mammillaria is generally hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11; however, this may vary from species to species. Refer to the USDA Plant Profile Pages for more specific information.
The various pincushion cactus species are native to habitats ranging from low desert to both cold and tropical forest settings. Their natural range extends across the southwestern US and throughout Central America.
Mammillaria Cactus Care
Mammillaria cactus care for this genus of cacti varies greatly depending on the species you select and how you choose to use this succulent plant.
Rugged outdoor plants require very little care. Keeping a cactus Indoors is another matter entirely.
When you keep indoor cactus, be sure to set up a sunny location in a room with a south-facing window during the wintertime.
This setting provides the most sunlight. A window location is typically a bit cooler than the rest of the room, and this cool temperature during the winter months is necessary to spur Mammillaria to bloom during the growing season.
In the spring and the summertime, vary the location to provide your Mammillaria cacti with the most light and heat.
Giving your plant an outdoor vacation in direct sunlight is a good idea.
How Often Should Indoor Mammillaria Cactus Be Watered?
During the growing season, let the top couple of inches of soil dry out before watering these succulent plants. Water the plant thoroughly, allowing excess water to run off.
If your Spiny Pincushion cactus has a drip tray, be sure to empty it. These plants should never stand in water.
How Long Can You Go Without Watering A Mammillaria Cactus?
In wintertime, cut back on watering. You should only water about once a month and then quite sparingly. Just give the plant enough water to prevent it from shriveling up.
Be sure to keep your plant at about 50° degrees Fahrenheit during the winter and provide plenty of indirect light.
How Much Fertilizer Does A Mammillaria Need?
You can fertilize your Mammillaria with a specially formulated cactus fertilizer or a very weak solution of houseplant fertilizer that is low in nitrogen and high in potassium and phosphorus.
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Don’t overfeed your cactus, as this will encourage green growth and discourage blooming.
What Type Of Potting Soil Is Best For Mammillaria Cactus?
When you repot your pincushion cactus, you can use a prepared cactus/succulent potting soil or make up your own cactus mix to get the soil texture you want using a combination of one part potting mix, one part coarse builder’s sand, and one part loam. Adding pumice will also help improve drainage.
Moreover, ensure the soil mix has good drainage and aeration.
When And How Often Do Mammillaria Bloom?
Only mature Mammillaria blooms, and when they do bloom, they display an attractive crown of flowers surrounding the top of the plant.
These lovely flowers appear at the top of the stem, which provides a pop of color when blooming.
PinFlowers of Mammillaria lenta up close
Flowers come in a wide range of colors, sizes, and shapes, depending on the species of Mammillaria.
In an ideal outdoor setting, these plants produce buds during one growing season and then go dormant through the winter and into the spring and early summer.
After the first summer rain, the pincushion cactus opens, and the flowers last for about seven days. Healthy, happy Mammillaria may bloom several times during the growing season, always following rain.
Flowers may mature into edible fruits. Some are tart and tasty, while others are quite bland. Generally speaking, these fruits are very small, and it is hard to gather enough to provide much nutrition.
How Long Does It Take Mammillaria To Mature?
It can take many years for a pincushion cactus to mature, so you may not see a flowering plant for a very long time.
You should also realize that desert cactus kept indoors may never bloom because they simply cannot get enough light.
The only way of being sure you are getting a mature plant is to purchase one that is already in bloom.
When Should Mammillaria Cactus Be Repotted?
You should not need to repot your cactus more than once every couple of years. They do well with crowded root systems but will need repotting if the cactus becomes top-heavy or the pot becomes overcrowded with offsets.
Naturally, you should replace the potting soil every couple of years because it will become depleted, and salts may build up from water over time.
It is best to repot at the start of the growing season, but it may be done almost any time of the year.
Don’t water before repotting the cactus, as it is easier to knock away dry soil from the roots, and potting in dry soil helps prevent the risk of root rot.
Examine the roots carefully and cut away any portions that appear to be dead or rotten. Treat the areas you cut with a spritz of hydrogen peroxide or a fungicide. Learn more about using Hydrogen Peroxide for plants.
Put the plant into its new pot with drainage holes and surround it with your prepared cactus mix. Spread the roots out to give them room to grow.
Don’t water right away. Wait about a week, and then give the plant a light watering. Doing this helps prevent root rot.
Other Mammillaria Cactus Varieties to Grow:
How Do You Propagate Mammillaria?
These cacti are easy to multiply via two propagation methods: seed or offsets (pups) from the mother plant.
The pincushion cactus spring up in clusters around the base of the parent plant. To propagate them, remove them carefully using a very sharp, sterile blade, or simply pull them away.
Lay the offsets on a clean paper towel in a sheltered, airy setting for a few days. This will allow a callus to form over the cut or area where the pup was separated from the parent plant.
When a callus has formed, you can put the pup into its own pot. Keep it in a warm, sheltered place with bright, indirect sunlight until it takes root.
This may take a few days or a few weeks. Once the plant has established roots, you can treat it just like the mature parent plant.
What Are Some Common Pests & Problems Affecting Mammillaria?
Most problems with cactus grown as houseplants involve bacterial or fungal diseases that are caused by excessive watering.
This is why it is very important to establish a sparing watering schedule and observe your plants carefully for any signs of rot.
These include black spots around the base of the plant and mushy flesh.
In addition to problems caused by overwatering, common houseplant pests are sometimes problematic. Among these are:
It can be very hard to get these pests under control once they are established because they are very small and hide quite effectively.
Some of these pests have protective coatings that make it difficult to reach the actual insect with a pesticide or natural treatment.
To make matters worse, many common plant pests have developed resistance to commercial pesticides.
That’s why it is smart to maintain an Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategy when dealing with any and all garden and houseplant pests.
Follow These 9 Smart IPM Tips!
#1 – Keep your plants healthy by providing the right environment and the correct care. Healthy plants are better able to resist disease and pests.
#2 – Always quarantine new plants for at least three weeks to avoid bringing in illness or hitchhikers. If you discover problems with a new plant, keep it separate and treat it or toss it.
#3 – Use natural treatments first. Spider mites and mealybugs can often just be washed off with a strong spray of water. Remember to cover the soil with plastic to prevent overwatering your cactus in the process.
#4 – Examine and clean the roots of cactus when repotting or transplanting. Root mealybugs can be washed off the roots with a strong spray of water. Blot excess water from the roots and allow them to air dry for a few hours before continuing with repotting or transplanting.
#5 – Examine your cacti often for signs of scale and mealybugs. If you see just a few, you may be able to remove them easily with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
#6 – You can spray your cacti occasionally with a diluted rubbing alcohol solution. Mix up one part alcohol with three parts water for a spray that will help deflect these pests. Be sure to test spray a small spot on the plant before spraying the entire plant. Some cacti are sensitive to rubbing alcohol.
#7 – Trap fungus gnats with yellow sticky traps or set up small jars of apple cider vinegar (ACV) to trap them. To do this, you’ll need a small jar with a lid. Punch small holes in the lid (or use an old spice bottle that already has a lid with holes).
Pour about half an inch of ACV into the jar and screw on the lid. Place the jar among your plants. Gnats will fly in to get the ACV and won’t be able to get out, so they’ll drown in the ACV.
#8 – Make milder insecticides your first choice, applied sparingly and only when necessary. Neem oil and pyrethrins are good choices.
#9 – If you have a problem with pests that are hard to reach with sprays, use systemic insecticides such as acephate and imidacloprid. Follow the packaging instructions carefully.
How Do You Tell If You’re Overwatering Mammillaria Cactus?
Remember, these cactus plants don’t just tolerate drought; they need it. Their roots are very susceptible to rot, and it’s easy to kill them with too much water.
It may not seem that way at first, though. When a cactus first receives too much water, it may become very plump and begin putting out new growth.
Even when this is happening above ground, the roots are sure to be suffering under the soil.
When cactus roots become waterlogged, they start dying and rotting. Gradually, the rotten roots cause the seemingly healthy plant to start deteriorating.
The flesh becomes discolored and begins to soften. When this starts to happen, it may be too late to save the plant.
That’s why it is so important to monitor your cactus carefully and look for soft, discolored spots around the base of the plant.
How Do You Save An Overwatered Mammillaria Cactus?
If your cactus is showing signs of rot around the roots, you must remove it from its pot and use a sharp, sterilized blade to cut away the rotten parts.
Work from the bottom up, removing thin slices until you reach fresh, unaffected flesh.
Seal off the open cut with cornstarch, and allow the cutting to dry on a paper towel for a period of several weeks.
If your cutting is going to survive, it will produce a few roots during this time.
When this happens, carefully brush away the cornstarch and provide the cutting with its own new pot and fresh cactus mix.
Best Uses For Mammillaria Cactus Indoors or Outdoors
There are so many different types of Mammillaria cactus that, no matter what your setting or purpose, you can surely find a variety to suit your needs.
Some species are quite delicate and suited to a sheltered indoor setting. Some are rugged, low-growing, and fast-spreading, making marvelous additions to rock gardens and other challenging settings.
Still, others grow quite tall and exhibit isolated growth patterns, making them ideal as specimen plants in a cactus garden or centrally located planter.
A mini cactus garden is a good way to display several different varieties of Mammillaria indoors!
When grown in pots, Mammillaria Cactus makes a wonderful decorative succulent in a balcony or patio.
This video shows many of the more rugged varieties of the genus Mammillaria in their natural habitat, where the cactus grows, and could inspire some great ideas for using Mammillaria in your own desert landscape.
If you have a gardener on your holiday gift list you are a lucky person indeed. Not only do you probably share an interest, you also have an excellent starting point to give them a gift they will absolutely love. And then there’s the benefit of being able to do a little shopping for yourself at the same time.
This guide is an eclectic list of fun, beautiful and functional gifts that is sure to please your favorite gardener. If you’re looking for a really classic gift idea, check out my most tried and true tool recommendations gift guide.
This gift guide is not sponsored, but in the interest of transparency, items from companies I’ve partnered with in the past are marked with an asterisk. Some links are affiliate links, which means The Impatient Gardener may receive a commission if you purchase through them. Thank you for supporting The Impatient Gardener.
TOOLS AT THE READY
When I was at Chanticleer Garden in Pennsylvania in September a lovely young woman walked up to me and introduced herself. She was working at the amazingly inspirational garden as an intern (and that is a great, hard-to-land gig, by the way). Well it turns out that she also happens to sell a fabulous leather tool belt. With several nice “pockets” for pruners, knives, a phone and other in-the-garden necessities, it also has a wide nylon waist strap, which I find to be more comfortable than a leather one. And you can’t beat the price.
I can’t think of a piece of garden gear I’ve tried in the last five years that has revolutionized my gardening experience the way the Hoselink hose reel has. I was fully anti-hose reel for many years and resisted trying it. And when I did, I immediately bought reels for every spigot. Aut0-retracting, articulating and with a variety of mounting options, the Hoselink really is as good as you hope it will be.
Peter Jackson, the potter behind the Wakefield Handmade brand, creates gorgeous collector-worthy pots, that make beautiful gifts on their own or along with a little something to grow in them. He typically sells via pre-orders, but check the website for in-stock studio items. You really can’t go wrong with any of them, as is typical will something made with love. I’ve given these on multiple occasions to very happy recipients and it’s a joy to see them in use year after year.
By the holidays, lot of gardeners and would-be gardeners are chomping at the bit to start growing. But it’s too early to start almost anything for the next gardening season. Enter microgreens, which are fun and easy to grow, satisfy the gardening itch and quite popular with a wide range of recipients. (What I’m trying to say here is that you can buy these for your grandmother or your nephew, and they will both love them). I love this set from Park Seed which is the whole package—seeds, soil and the perfect tray—so your recipient can plant and get growing before the wrapping paper is cleaned up.
I’ve been recommending (and giving) Caste Glass’s hand-blown glass birds as a gifts for several years because I think they fill a hole in the “impossible to buy for” category of recipients. Garden art is very specific and should be approached cautiously. But these abstract birds are small enough to be tucked in to a special spot in the garden and manage to fit into any aesthetic. Each is unique, just like the person you’ll buy it for.
If you’re thinking traditional with a twist, an unusual amaryllis is the ticket. Instead of the typical big, red blooms, how about a Royal Dream Harlequin, a beautiful creamy double flower with a dark pink to red picotee edge, all planted and ready to go.
Fatshedera ‘Angyo Star’ rising above a shady container this summer.
Oh sure, we all know about some of the classic holiday plants, but what about giving a plant that’s a little bit more special? Fatshedera ‘Angyo Star’ (a cross between English ivy and Fatsia) from Southern Living Plant Collection is one of those plants that everyone asks about. I know this because I grew it in a container outside this winter and I’m pretty sure almost everyone who came to my house asked about it. That same plant is now inside, doing quite well as a houseplant. Reaching 5-6’ high by 4-5’ wide when mature, it’s shade tolerant and thrives outdoors year-round in Zones 7a-9b. Imagine all the oohs and ahs when someone opens up a stealthily wrapped ‘Angyo Star’.
A big, beautiful, high-quality pot is one of those things that a lucky recipient will have forever. They are classic and classy, and just about every gardener can use one. Seibert and Rice makes stunning, frostproof, Italian terracotta pots that will be used for decades to come. If you’re struggling to choose a style, I think you can’t go wrong with any of the rolled rim designs.
With the advent of the easy-to-assemble raised bed kit, you actually can give a garden as a gift. I’m partial to the round Corten steel variety (like I installed for my mom a couple years ago, and she loves it), but the Epic Gardening shop has a wide range of styles and colors of metal raised beds that come in a wrappable box.
After awhile, a lot of gardening stuff starts to look the same, so when something different comes along, it’s not only tantalizing (in the “try not to buy it for yourself” vein) but also a pretty good bet that even a longtime gardener won’t have something like it yet. These very classy willow cloches (honestly, I’d call it more of a mini obelisk) fall under that category.
I love a good combo gift. The next gift ideas are ones I envision being mixed and matched, but of course they all work on their own as well.
A GORGEOUS SEED BOX
I will admit my love of all things Sneeboer, but that’s because they are just that good. And this simple seed box—a collaboration with the great New York garden shop Gardener—is up to Sneeboer snuff. The box is made from light wood, but the heavy clasp has the most satisfying click. It’s the little things right? Fill this with your favorite seeds and this is a total winner of a gift.
This blog started with my struggles with water wands and I’ve been trying just about every one on the market since then. And I’m happy to report that I now have two I quite like. The first is Dramm’s Professional Watering Wand in the 36-inch length, which you think you don’t need but you do. It works better for me with the 170 water breaker (that’s the smaller one that provides better flow, in my opinion). Thumb “volume” control is where it’s at.
The other is Hoselink’s water wand. This one is a bit thicker and has a fixed head that puts out a nice, soft flow. It has a bend to it that is odd at first and then suddenly seems very natural and practical. It comes with the Hoselink quick connect fitting attached and I recommend this one if you don’t want a longer length wand and you use the Hoselink Hose Reel.
OK, so the color of twine isn’t that important, but I do love black twine, which disappears in the garden when used for propping up gravity-afflicted plants. Nutscene Tin o’ Twine also has nice packaging, which is how garden twine can become a gift. I like that it lasts all season but can go in the compost to break down.
If your recipient is all about practical, then it’s time to dispense with fancy and go fully functional. And that’s where this photo storage-turned seed storage system comes in. I’ve been using these (I have two) for years and they are the best for sheer practicality.
Niwaki’s Crean Mate is a little block of magic. I’ve been told it’s a pumic stone, but it seems more magical than that. A Crean Mate and a little water cleans rust, sap and whatever the goo that ends up on pruners and other blades is. The Crean Mate is the first step in cleaning or sharpening my tools and I’d be lost without it. In fact, I just bought three more to stick in drawers all over the place. There is a regular size and the new mini, which I prefer because it’s easier to get into nooks and crannies.
Gloves are one of those things I prefer to buy inexpensively. I lose them (only one of each pair, of course) far too often to spend a lot of money on them, and I’m not alone (all of our right-handed gloves are having a heck of a party somewhere). I like gloves that are thin but protective. These also have touch screen sensitive fingers so I can look up a weed on my phone without taking off my gloves.
Touch Screen Gardening Gloves, $12 for two pairs (I wear a size smaller in these gloves than I do in Atlas Nitrile Gloves)
HANDY CLIPS
Every year I find more use for these clips in the garden, and they are a lot quicker than any other method that I’m aware of.
Tub trugs should comes as standard issue with every garden because there are about a billion uses for them, from collecting weeds, to moving plants, washing vegetables and so much more. Fun colors help.
A garden journal makes an excellent gift for a gardener who is just starting to get serious, and Linda Vater’s beautiful take on it, offers the opportunity for a five-year record of the beautiful spaces a gardener is setting out to create.
If you’re looking to give a book that’s loaded with enough inspiration to get any gardener through winter, Claus Dalby’s new book on cottage gardens is a perfect choice for gardeners looking to achieve the look. Full of gorgeous photos and information to help achieve the look, this is a book that will certainly bring a great deal of joy.
Let’s be honest, there aren’t that many flowering houseplants.
I love a pretty orchid or a peace lily as much as the next gardener, but even though they have long-lasting blooms, they don’t compare to the floral show of a Cape primrose.
Also commonly called Streptocarpus after their genus name, not only do they bloom with colorful blossoms, but some Cape primroses flower year-round or repeatedly throughout the year.
It’s like having a non-stop flower garden in your home.
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I’d be willing to pamper Cape primroses to keep the endless display going, but you don’t have to.
They’re tough little plants, despite their elegant appearance, and they’re rarely troubled by pests or disease.
Ready to get to know these underappreciated beauties? Here’s what’s coming up in this guide:
The biggest challenge in growing Cape primroses is finding them!
You’re more likely to come across their close relative, the African violet, but keep your eyes peeled and you might get lucky.
Now, without further ado, let’s discuss where Streptocarpus came from.
Cultivation and History
Streptocarpus is indigenous to southern Africa. In the 19th century, English botanist James Bowie of Kew Gardens explored the Cape province of South Africa and Brazil looking for new plant species.
He came across S. rexii with its bold blue flowers and brought it back to Kew Gardens in England in 1827.
A few different Streptocarpus species were identified in the decades that followed, then in 1861, S. saundersii debuted at Kew Gardens, followed by S. parviflorus in 1882.
It wasn’t until 1946 that the first named Streptocarpus hybrid was cultivated.
It was bred at the John Innes Institute by William Lawrence and was named ‘Constant Nymph.’
But prior to that, breeders created many new and interesting unnamed Cape primrose hybrids that originated from the specimens brought back initially.
There are over 150 species within the Streptocarpus genus, but you’ll rarely come across a species plant on the market. Most of the plants for sale are hybrids.
Despite the name, Cape primroses aren’t related to true primroses. They just have similar-looking leaves.
While they were previously classified in separate genera, the closely-related African violet (formerly Saintpaulia spp.) is now included in the Streptocarpus genus. The plants look somewhat similar, but they have different growing requirements.
You can tell them apart because Cape primroses usually have long, primrose-like leaves, while African violet leaves are more oval, though there are some hybrids with the more rounded leaves.
In the wild, Streptocarpus species grow in forested areas under trees where they receive dappled sunlight.
There are two types of Streptocarpus plants. The first group (subgenus Streptocarpella) is made up of stemmed plants. This group includes the species S. saxorum.
The second is the stemless, rosette type (subgenus Streptocarpus), which includes the species S. rexii and a majority of the hybrids on the market.
The care is the same, they just have a slightly different growth habit.
Streptocarpus Propagation
As mentioned, most Cape primrose cultivars on the market are hybrids. These won’t grow true from seed and the seeds might even be sterile. So, if you opt to go the seed route, please keep that in mind.
If you want to propagate a clone, there are other methods. Let’s begin with starting seeds and go from there:
From Seed
Cape primrose seeds should be started in late winter or early spring. The plants will take up to 20 weeks to flower, so plan ahead if you have a specific flowering date goal in mind.
Fill a seed tray with a seed-starting mix. I’m a big fan of Tank’s Pro-Lite Seeding and Potting Mix because it has plenty of coconut husks and perlite for water retention and airiness.
Sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the soil. Streptocarpus seeds are teeny-tiny. When you open that seed packet or seed pod, you might think you’re dealing with dust.
If you’ve never worked with fine seeds before, it’s easiest to take a piece of paper and fold it in half. Pour the seeds onto the paper and then sprinkle them out of the edge of the paper, which acts as a funnel.
Spray with a water bottle to moisten the seed mix. Place the tray on a heating mat and in morning light or under supplemental grow lights. Cover the tray with glass or plastic to maintain humidity.
Be patient, germination takes a long time. You might not even see growth for two weeks and once they emerge, it will take a while for them to develop.
Once the Cape primrose seedlings are a quarter of an inch tall, thin them to about three inches apart. When they have true leaves, you can move the seedlings into individual pots.
From Leaf Cuttings
In spring or early summer, fill a seed tray with a soilless seed-starting mix. Look for young, healthy leaves toward the center of the plant. Remove the leaf with a clean, sharp pair of scissors and cut the leaf in half along the mid-rib.
Place the base of each of the leaf halves an inch deep in the potting mixture, with the leaves at least three inches apart. Set the tray in an area with bright, indirect light, direct morning light, or under grow lights.
Moisten the seed mixture without disturbing the leaves. Cover the tray with plastic or glass to maintain humidity. If needed, place a stick or broken chopstick in the tray to help prop up the cover so it doesn’t touch the leaves.
After a month or so, you will start to see plantlets forming on the edges of the leaves. Wait for these to grow and develop roots. Once they do, you can transplant them into individual pots.
By Division
Older Cape primrose specimens can be divided into sections and repotted. This is a smart way to deal with a plant that has outgrown its pot but you don’t want to go up a size.
Remove the original Cape primrose from the pot and with your hands, gently tease it in half or thirds.
You want each section to have at least one stem and roots attached. You might need to use a clean pair of scissors to tease the pieces apart.
Brush away some of the old soil from around the roots and pot them up as described below.
Transplanting
When you bring your Cape primroses home and repot them, they will be in a state of shock. They probably won’t adapt to their new conditions and start to grow for at least two weeks.
It’s nothing to worry about, I’m just a warning that you shouldn’t expect too much from your plants initially.
That can be good or bad, depending on your watering habits. You can also use hanging planters for the rosette types.
To accommodate the root structure, wide, shallow pots are better than deep ones. Whatever you choose, it needs to have a drainage hole in the bottom to allow the water to run out. Cape primroses won’t tolerate soggy roots.
Fill the container with any water-retentive potting soil. They like slightly acidic to neutral pH, which is about what most potting soils are.
If you’re looking for suggestions, I’m the unofficial team cheerleader for Fox Farm’s Ocean Forest potting mix. I’ve yet to find a houseplant that doesn’t thrive in its mix of bat guano, earthworm castings, fish and crab meal, humus, and moss.
Pick up a one and a half quart bag in packs of one, two, four, five, eight, or ten at Amazon.
To transplant into a container, remove the plant from its existing pot and gently brush away the soil from the roots. Spread and detangle the roots a little.
Place the roots in the new container and fill in around it with potting soil.
Firm the soil around the base and water well. If the potting medium settles, add a bit more. You want the plant to be sitting at the same height that it was in the original container.
How to Grow Cape Primroses
Providing Cape primroses with adequate light is tricky. They want lots of bright light, but the heat of direct light in the afternoon is too strong.
If you have a location in an east-facing window or a south-facing window with sheer curtains, that’s ideal.
You can also use a west-facing window if you don’t live in an area that experiences sweltering summers.
In the winter, you’ll either need to move your Cape primrose to a south-facing window (without curtains) or provide supplemental light.
If you live in an area with frigid winters, move the pot a few feet away from the window while still keeping it in direct light. Otherwise, your plant will be exposed to cold temperatures.
Speaking of, Cape primroses should never be exposed to temperatures below 45°F.
The soil should remain consistently moist from March through September, with just the surface allowed to dry out between waterings. From October to February, the top half of the soil should dry out before you water again.
You should always test the soil with your finger before watering. Plants take up moisture at different rates depending on the time of year, the age of the specimen, and the condition of the soil.
During the March through September growing period, feed your Streptocarpus every second week with a mild, balanced fertilizer or a stronger fertilizer diluted by half. If you overfeed, the plant will produce lots of big leaves but no flowers.
The exception in both the watering and fertilizing timing is with those hybrids that bloom year-round. These should be fed and watered as you would in the summer for as long as they are blooming.
Dr. Earth makes a nice, balanced, mild fertilizer in a handy 16-ounce pump container.
Plants that are overfed or growing in alkaline soil will tend to have foliage that turns purple. Aim for a pH of around 6.0 to 7.0.
Cape primrose needs a good amount of humidity to thrive, especially in the winter when the air tends to be drier. Do your best to keep the humidity above 50 percent.
If your home isn’t that humid, you can keep your Cape primrose in a bathroom, by the kitchen sink, or use a small humidifier near the plants.
I like to use humidifiers that emit a fine mist rather than those that have larger droplets. You want to raise the humidity, not water your plants. Avoid those that heat the water.
Something like the top-fill humidifier from Levoit, which can hold two and a half liters of water and has an auto shut-off when the water runs out, is ideal. Nab one at Amazon.
If you can’t provide enough humidity, you’ll probably see some browning of the leaf edges and tips.
Growing Tips
Provide bright, indirect light with some direct sun in the morning.
Allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering in the summer. Reduce water in the winter.
Choose wide pots with drainage holes.
Pruning and Maintenance
Other than snipping off any dead, diseased, or deformed leaves, your main job with trimming is to remove spent flowers at the base. As they age, the older, outer leaves will die. Snip these off.
You will need to repot Streptocarpus every few years, whether you upgrade the pot size or not. That’s because soil tends to become depleted, compacted, or hydrophobic over the years.
You’ll need to move up a pot size or divide the plant if you start to see roots coming out of the drainage holes.
If you decide to go up a size, choose a container that is one size up from the existing one. If you go up larger than that, you run the risk of your plant suffering from root rot.
For instructions on repotting or dividing, visit the propagation section above.
Streptocarpus Cultivars to Select
As I mentioned, Cape primroses can be a little hard to find unless you visit specialty retailers.
If you do find them at a large retailer, they’re usually listed under the generic name with no information about the parentage. That doesn’t make them any less lovely, though.
Remember how we talked about the two types of growth habits? They can be either stemmed or rosette types, but most will be rosette. We’ll call out any that are stemmed types.
Let’s talk about Boysenberry Delight first.
Boysenberry Delight
With cheerful purple flowers and a sweet, arching growth habit, ‘Boysenberry Delight’ is begging for a hanging basket to highlight it.
Bring one home in a two-and-a-half-inch pot from Walmart.
Crystal Series
This series is exceptional because the plants often continue to flower throughout the year, even in the fall and winter when other Cape primroses stop blooming.
The series includes cornflower blue and deep purple ‘Crystal Beauty,’ pink ‘Crystal Blush,’ white and fuchsia ‘Crystal Dawn,’ white and violet ‘Crystal Ice,’ pure white ‘Crystal Snow,’ and reddish-violet ‘Crystal Wonder.’
Eternity
Streptocarpus flowers are beautiful, but ‘Eternity’ takes things to the next level. The big, bold magenta blossoms are large and double, with pale pink between the veins.
A hybrid sport of ‘Dimetris,’ a popular cultivar with vibrant violet and white flowers, this rosette-type will flower intermittently all year long.
Gold
‘Gold’ is a gorgeous hybrid that features bright yellow blossoms with white throats.
The edges of the petals are rippled and the flowers are heavily fragrant. A repeat bloomer on rosette-arranged leaves, it is one of the few truly bright yellow hybrids.
Harlequin Lace
Looking for a flower that resembles the most elegant violet? ‘Harlequin Lace’ is it.
The large flowers are blue, violet, cream, and yellow, with the color following the veins of the bloom surrounding the cream and yellow interior. At a glance, the pattern appears to be lace-like.
This cultivar was awarded the Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit in 2013 for its impressive blossoms that persist for months and months.
Wow
‘Wow’ is aptly named. The large, two-inch wide blossoms on this rosette type are bright reddish pink on top and creamy yellow on bottom, with reddish pink edging along the ruffled petals.
It will bloom intermittently throughout the year.
Managing Pests and Disease
One of the best things about Cape primroses is that they are marvelously untroubled by pests and disease, particularly when you grow them indoors.
A few of the old familiar houseplant pests might attack them, and we’ll talk about those first.
Pests
The chances that pests will choose to chomp on your Cape primroses are low if you keep your plants healthy.
Those kept in low light conditions or that are underfed will be more susceptible to pest problems.
Aphids
If you grow houseplants long enough, you will encounter aphids. Don’t stress too much. If you act before the stems are entirely covered in aphids, they aren’t too damaging or difficult to deal with.
If you notice yellowing foliage, a sticky, clear substance on your Cape primroses, or the small, oval insects themselves, grab the plant and put it in your sink or tub. Then, spray it with a stream of water to knock the aphids loose.
Wash them down the drain and put your plant in a time out. You don’t want it hanging out with your other houseplants and spreading the problem around.
Do the spray wash once a week until you don’t see any further evidence of bugs.
If you don’t want to go this route or you have a big infestation, spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap to kill the little jerks.
Spider mites are itty-bitty tick relatives that feed on the sap of many different houseplants. Most of the time, you’ll notice fine webbing on your plants before you’ll see the pests themselves.
If you look closely, the webs might be filled with debris, which is the exoskeletons left behind as the mites molt.
It involves isolating your plant, spraying it with water to knock the suckers loose, and an insecticide to kill any that remain.
Whiteflies
When it comes to Cape primroses, whiteflies are more common in greenhouses than the home, but they love to hitch a ride on newly-purchased Cape primroses.
That’s why you should always inspect your new additions before introducing them to the clan.
This plant is one tough cookie when it comes to disease. It’s rare that you’ll encounter a problem, but if you do, it’s probably going to be rot:
Stem and Leaf Rot
Stem and leaf rot isn’t a disease but a physiological issue. It happens when water splashes on the foliage and the moisture pools at the base of the leaves, causing them to rot.
If you see this, remove the rotting leaf or stem section immediately and be extra careful in the future to water the soil at the base of the plant and avoid wetting the foliage. In general, this is good advice for all plants.
Best Uses for Cape Primroses
Whether you pot them up individually as a single specimen or group them for a larger display, these flowering beauties are going to stand out.
You could also put those with an arching growth habit in a hanging basket or wall-mounted pot for something a little different.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous flowering perennial
Flower/Foliage Color:
Blue, pink, purple, red, white, yellow, bicolored, tricolored / green
Native to:
South Africa
Maintenance:
Low
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
9-11
Tolerance:
Some drought
Bloom Time:
Most spring, summer, some year-round or intermittent
Soil Type:
Loose, loamy
Exposure:
Bright, indirect light with some direct sun
Soil pH:
6.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:
3 years
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Spacing:
3 inches
Uses:
Specimen, hanging pots
Planting Depth:
Surface sow (seeds), same depth as original container (transplants)
Order:
Lamiales
Height:
18 inches
Family:
Gesneriaceae
Spread:
18 inches
Subfamily:
Didymocarpoideae
Growth Rate:
Moderate
Genus:
Streptocarpus
Water Needs:
Moderate
Subgenus:
Streptocarpella, Streptocarpus
Common Pests and Diseases:
Aphids, spider mites, whiteflies; Stem and leaf rot
Stick With Streptocarpus for a Year-Round Flowering Display
Like I said, I’d be willing to coddle a Cape primrose just so I could enjoy the flowers, but as you can see, you don’t really have to. They’re pretty easygoing.
Have you managed to find one in your neck of the woods? What color is it? Let us know all about your stunner in the comments section below.
A robust roof is more than just a component of home architecture; it’s a critical investment in your home’s future. It’s the first line of defense against the whims of weather, a key factor in energy efficiency, and a major player in your property’s overall aesthetics. The decision to replace a roof carries significant financial weight, and this guide is designed to help you navigate the complexities of budgeting for this essential upgrade in 2023.
Image source
Factors Influencing Roofing Costs
Material Choices
Whether exploring roofing services in Orlando or elsewhere, the selection of roofing materials is diverse, each with its own set of benefits and price points. Asphalt shingles are widely favored for their affordability and ease of installation, though prices can vary based on quality. Metal roofing, while more costly, offers longevity and can be more energy-efficient. Slate tiles provide an upscale look but at a premium cost and with additional structural considerations due to their weight. Wooden shakes add a natural aesthetic but require maintenance to combat the elements. And for those looking at the cutting edge, solar tiles are an eco-friendly option, albeit with a higher initial investment.
Roof Size and Complexity
The cost of a new roof is directly influenced by its size, typically measured in ‘squares’—a 10×10 foot area. Yet, it’s not just about square footage; the complexity of your roof’s design, including slopes, peaks, and valleys, can also increase both material needs and labor costs.
Labor Costs
The price for labor can vary as much as the materials themselves. Rates differ by region and are also impacted by the skill level of the roofing contractor. A highly experienced contractor may charge more, but the expertise they bring can be worth the extra cost.
Removal of Old Roof
Out with the old, in with the new—removing your existing roof can be a significant part of the expense. The process involves labor and disposal costs, which can vary depending on the material being removed and local disposal regulations.
Geographical Location
Where you live can significantly impact the cost of a new roof. Local market conditions, the cost of living, and even the typical weather patterns can all affect the final price tag. For example, roofing materials that are better suited to withstand heavy snowfall or high winds may be more expensive.
Seasonal Influences
When you decide to undertake your roofing project can also play a role in cost. During peak seasons, when demand is high, you may find that prices are as well. Planning your project for the off-season might offer potential savings.
Estimating Your Roofing Costs
Calculating Roof Area
Understanding the actual area of your roof goes beyond simple length and width measurements. The pitch or slope of the roof must be factored in to get a true sense of the material requirements. Accurate measurements are crucial for an honest estimate.
Material Costs
Prices for roofing materials are not static; they fluctuate based on the market and quality. For instance, you might find asphalt shingles ranging from $100 to $150 per square, while metal roofing can be anywhere from $300 to $800 per square. These costs are also influenced by the expected lifespan and warranty of the materials.
Labor Cost Estimation
Labor estimates can be complex and should be examined with care. They’re influenced by the difficulty of the installation, which is why a more complex roof design can lead to higher labor costs.
Budgeting for Additional Expenses
Permits and Licenses
Navigating the bureaucratic maze of permits and licenses is a less glamorous but essential aspect of roofing. Depending on your locality, the cost of these permits can vary, but they are a necessary hurdle to ensure your new roof meets building codes and safety standards. While it may seem like just another line item on your budget, it’s a safeguard that your roofing project is legally sound and structurally secure.
Unexpected Repairs
No matter how well you plan, roofing projects can uncover surprises. From rotten decking to unforeseen structural issues, it’s wise to allocate a portion of your budget to these potential hidden costs. Having a contingency of around 10-20% of the total project cost isn’t excessive—it’s prudent planning.
Insulation and Ventilation
While you’re replacing your roof, it’s an opportune time to consider the state of your insulation and ventilation. These elements are crucial for maintaining an energy-efficient home and can extend the life of your roof by preventing issues like ice dams and condensation. The upfront cost may be substantial, but the long-term savings on heating and cooling can be significant.
Gutters and Drainage Systems
Gutters and downspouts might not be the most exciting features of your roof, but they’re vital for directing water away from your home’s foundation. If your current system is aging or inefficient, incorporating new gutters into your roofing project is a smart move. It’s an additional cost, but it’s also an investment in protecting your home from water damage.
Choosing the Right Contractor
Verifying Credentials
The right contractor is the linchpin of a successful roofing project. It’s essential to verify their credentials, which should include proper licensing, insurance, and a portfolio of previous work. Don’t hesitate to ask for references and actually follow up with them. A credible contractor will expect this level of diligence and be happy to comply.
Evaluating Quotes
When it comes to quotes, the devil is in the details. It’s not just about the bottom line; it’s about what that figure represents. Does the quote cover all materials and labor? What about waste removal? Are there any hidden costs? Compare each quote carefully, ensuring you’re making an apples-to-apples comparison.
Understanding Warranties
A warranty can be your roof’s safety net, so understanding its terms is crucial. A comprehensive warranty should cover both materials and labor and last for a significant period. Be wary of warranties that seem too good to be true—they often are.
Financing Your New Roof
Savings vs. Financing
If you have the savings to cover your new roof, it’s the most straightforward route. However, financing the project can make sense if it allows you to maintain a cushion for other emergencies. Weigh the interest rates and terms of any financing against the cost of dipping into savings.
Loan Options
There are several loan options to consider for roofing projects. A home equity loan or line of credit can offer low interest rates, while personal loans might be quicker to secure. Evaluate each option’s terms, including repayment schedules and interest rates, to find the best fit for your financial situation.
Government Grants and Subsidies
In some cases, government grants or subsidies may be available, especially for roofing projects that improve energy efficiency or use eco-friendly materials. These can significantly offset the cost, so it’s worth researching what’s available in your area.
Conclusion
A new roof is a significant investment—one that protects your home and enhances its value. By understanding the factors that contribute to the cost, from materials to labor, and by planning for the unexpected, you can budget effectively for this critical upgrade. Remember, the cheapest bid isn’t always the best. Quality materials, skilled installation, and a reliable warranty are the cornerstones of a roofing project that will stand the test of time. With careful planning and the right team, your new roof can be a source of comfort and pride for many years to come.
A mini Grinch tree is quick and easy to make, and it will instantly fill your home with Christmas cheer. Exactly what the Grinch would hope for! Here’s how you can make your own tabletop Grinch tree, and perhaps a few extras to spread some more holiday joy.
While it’s lovely to have classic holiday decor, like elegant Christmas trees decked in traditional ornaments and holly-adorned wreaths, I also like to inject the Christmas season with a little quirkiness and whimsy.
Queue this little wonder! Not only is it adorable and brings back happy childhood memories of Dr. Seuss’s Beloved How the Grinch Stole Christmas, but this miniature Grinch tree is also a table-top reminder of the spirit of the holidays.
Learn how to make one and, more importantly, why you should!
I wrote about how a Grinch tree saved Christmas for me many years ago, and ever since, I have been making many different versions to celebrate the season (like this 9-foot Grinch tree!). This year, my Grinch trees are smaller, portable, and GIVEable.
So when I hear about someone feeling a bit blue and could use a little holiday warmth, a tabletop Grinch tree will show up at their door to put a smile on their face.
For this project, you can use any mini evergreen tree, but I used a lemon cypress. Lemon cypress trees are easy to find for sale around the holidays. They have a great scent and are a vibrant yellow-green colour.
They do need a lot of humidity, though, so if you choose a lemon cypress, be sure to water it often (twice a week or so) and spritz it with water regularly.
Want to make a mini Grinch tree or three for the people in your life? Here’s how!
How to Make a Tabletop Grinch Tree
I’ve seen quite a few variations of the mini Grinch tree. Notably, many grocery stores, like Trader Joe’s, are now selling their own versions of them.
The Trader Joe’s Grinch tree is much skinnier and has a little less pizazz. I like making my own because I can customize the decorations and the type of plant I use.
But if there’s a part of the Trader Joe’s Grinch tree you don’t like, you could easily disassemble it and follow these instructions to customize the tree with their materials.
I’ve also seen other variations where the tree isn’t living and is instead constructed out of cedar boughs. I prefer this method of making a mini Grinch tree as it’s much simpler to do, and you get a living plant afterward!
With the right care, you can use the same plant next year to create another tabletop Grinch tree.
Floral wire helps to keep all the branches tight and in place.
Materials
Make It!
Take your evergreen out of its nursery pot and plant it in a colourful pot with good potting soil. Position the tree in the pot so it is closer to one side and sticking out at an angle.
Planting at an angle already gives the tree a Grinch like shape.
Add some decorative moss on top of the soil.
While technically optional, the moss makes it much more visually appealing.
If you want to add string lights, do that next. Starting at the bottom and working your way up, wind the string lights around the tree. If the string of lights is long enough, start winding back down to the bottom of the tree after you reach the top.
Add the ribbon and/or floral wire for a garland. Wind it around the tree like the lights, beginning at the bottom and working your way up. Tuck the loose ends in to keep it in place.
You can also use green wire if you want it to be more hidden.
Next, you will need some ornaments. There are many possibilities for what you could use to adorn this little tree, but for this one, I left it plain except for my wire garland and one large topper ornament.
If you want to add more to yours, try using glittery mini pom-poms. To make the pom-poms into ornaments, thread single pom-poms onto straight jewelry pins, then bend the pins into a hook shape and hang them all over the tree.
The big ornament ties it all together.
For the top, attach your large ornament to the top of the tree so that it bends down toward the center of the pot.
Add a festive bow around the pot, and you’re done!
The bow really makes a difference!
More DIY Holiday Decor Ideas
DIY Mini Grinch Tree
This mini Grinch tree can be made using your evergreen of choice, turning a living tree into a festive decoration for the holidays.
Plant your mini evergreen tree into a colourful pot with potting soil. When planting, position the tree to one side and slightly at an angle.
Top off the soil with decorative moss.
Optional. Add string lights by starting at the bottom and winding your way up and down.
Use ribbon or floral wire as a garland and to wrap the tree. Begin at the bottom and work your way up. Tuck in the loose ends and slowly bend the top of the tree into a curved shape as you wind.
Decorate with ornaments of choice. Add a large round ornament at the tree’s end for the signature Grinch look. This also helps your tree curve and hang.
In an age where sustainability and self-sufficiency are becoming increasingly important, the fusion of gardening and solar technology presents a compelling solution.
In an age where sustainability and self-sufficiency are becoming increasingly important, the fusion of gardening and solar technology presents a compelling solution.
Imagine tending to your garden without relying on the conventional power grid, free from the constraints of electricity bills and carbon emissions. This is the world of “Gardening Off the Grid,” where the benefits of solar batteries shine through.
By harnessing the power of the sun and storing it in efficient batteries, gardeners can unlock a range of advantages, from cost savings to enhanced flexibility and self-reliance. In this article, we’ll look at the many remarkable benefits of solar batteries in the realm of gardening.
What are Solar Batteries?
Solar batteries, in essence, provide a reliable and efficient way to store energy generated from the sun through solar panels. In order to take full advantage of this renewable energy source you will need to have solar panels installed on your building. Solar energy is an incredibly valuable asset to any home, here is a quick overview of how it works:
First solar panels, also known as photovoltaic (PV) panels, are installed in a location that receives ample sunlight.
These panels consist of ‘cells’ known as ‘photovoltaic cells’. When sunlight hits the solar panels, these cells create a flow of direct current (DC) electricity.
The DC electricity produced by the solar panels is then sent to an inverter. This device converts the DC electricity into AC (Alternating Current), so it can be used to power appliances and devices found in the home. This includes sockets, which can power gardening equipment, such as electric lawnmowers, hedge trimmers, irrigation systems, or garden lighting.
By including a solar battery within this clever system, excess electricity that is generated by the solar panels can be stored for use. This is particularly advantageous for those hours when there is no sunlight to produce more energy. It means that homeowners can still make use of this ‘free’ completely renewable energy source, no matter what time of day.
The Power of Solar Batteries
By tapping into the power of the sun to support their energy use, gardeners can break free from the limitations imposed by traditional electrical outlets and power sources. Here are just some of the benefits using a solar battery can bring:
Energy Independence
One of the most significant advantages of incorporating solar batteries into gardening practices is achieving energy independence. Gardeners are no longer at the mercy of fluctuating electricity prices or grid failures.
Solar batteries empower individuals to generate their own energy, allowing them to take control of their gardening endeavors. This newfound independence means that you can power your garden tools, lighting, irrigation systems, and other equipment without relying on external sources.
Cost Savings
By harnessing the sun’s energy, gardeners can significantly reduce or even eliminate their reliance on electricity from the grid. As a result, monthly utility bills are reduced or eliminated altogether, resulting in substantial savings.
Additionally, many regions offer incentives and rebates for installing solar energy systems, making the transition to solar-powered gardening even more financially appealing.
Clean and Renewable Energy
By opting for solar batteries, gardeners can reduce their reliance on fossil fuels and non-renewable energy sources. Traditional electricity generation often relies on burning fossil fuels, which releases harmful greenhouse gases into the atmosphere, contributing to climate change.
In contrast, solar energy produces no greenhouse gas emissions during operation, helping to mitigate the environmental impact of gardening activities. Gardening with solar batteries goes hand in hand with environmental sustainability. It is a tangible way to minimize our carbon footprint and contribute to a greener future.
Flexibility and Convenience
Solar batteries offer gardeners newfound flexibility and convenience, as powering and garden equipment can be done at all hours without having to pay expensive tariffs.
Running sprinklers, lights or other features in your garden can now be done at any time, for no cost, when using the stored energy in a solar battery.
Choosing the Right Solar Batteries
When considering a solar energy system, it is essential to choose the right solar battery to ensure efficient energy storage and usage. Here are some key factors to consider when selecting a solar battery, along with an overview of different types and their approximate costs.
Capacity: The capacity of a solar battery refers to the amount of electricity it can store, typically measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh).
Determining your energy storage needs depends on factors such as your average daily energy consumption, the size of your solar panel system, and the desired level of backup power.
Depth of Discharge (DoD): DoD represents the amount of a battery’s capacity that can be used before it needs recharging. For example, a battery with a 50% DoD should only discharge halfway to preserve its longevity. Higher DoD batteries offer more usable capacity but may come at a higher cost.
Round-trip Efficiency: The round-trip efficiency indicates how much energy is lost when charging and discharging the battery. A higher efficiency means less energy is wasted during the storage process. It’s important to choose a battery with good round-trip efficiency to maximize the usefulness of your stored solar power.
Types of Solar Batteries
Lead-acid Batteries: These are the most common and affordable options for solar energy storage. While they offer lower upfront costs, lead-acid batteries require regular maintenance and have a shorter lifespan compared to other types. Approximate cost range: $150 to $500 per kWh.
Lithium-ion Batteries: These batteries have gained popularity in recent years due to their high energy density, longer lifespan, and lower maintenance requirements.
Lithium-ion batteries offer deeper DoD and higher round-trip efficiency. Approximate cost range: $300 to $1,000 per kWh.
Saltwater Batteries: Also known as aqueous hybrid ion (AHI) batteries, saltwater batteries, are a newer technology in the market. They use water-based electrolytes, making them environmentally friendly and safer to handle. Saltwater batteries have a long lifespan and excellent safety features. Approximate cost range: $400 to $1,200 per kWh.
Flow Batteries: These are a unique type of battery that stores energy in liquid electrolytes contained in separate tanks. They offer flexible capacity and longer lifespans, making them suitable for large-scale applications. Flow batteries excel in their ability to store large amounts of energy and support frequent charge and discharge cycles. Approximate cost range: $500 to $1,500 per kWh.
Nickel-Iron (NiFe) Batteries: Nickel-iron batteries have been used for many years and are known for their robustness and durability. They have a long lifespan, tolerate extreme temperature conditions well, and are highly resistant to overcharging and deep discharge. However, they have lower energy density and efficiency compared to other options. Approximate cost range: $500 to $1,200 per kWh.
It is important to note that the costs mentioned above are approximate and can vary. It is recommended to consult with solar energy professionals or reputable suppliers who can guide you in selecting the right solar battery system based on your specific needs. They can provide valuable insights and help you make an informed decision that maximizes the efficiency and effectiveness of your solar-powered setup.
Conclusion
Incorporating solar batteries into your energy system can revolutionize the way you power your home and gardening equipment. By harnessing the power of the sun, solar batteries offer energy independence and cost savings. They provide the freedom to garden off the grid, reducing reliance on traditional electricity sources and minimizing your carbon footprint.
Solar batteries not only offer sustainability but also enhance flexibility and convenience in your gardening endeavors. With extended operating hours and the ability to power more of your garden features without the cost, you can enjoy the tranquility of your garden without being limited by your energy supply.
Good homemade focaccia is irresistible, and impressive. Straight from the oven or savored later, focaccia should be crunchy with olive oil on the outside, tender on the inside, and taste of the moment. The toppings, whether garden-grown, wild-foraged, or hunted down at at your local farmer’s market or supermarket, offer endless ways to be creative. It is ideal rustic fare but impressive enough to share at a Thanksgiving table.
Here’s the no-knead focaccia recipe that makes the most of any season.
For years, my baking life has included focaccia. The round cast iron skillet I usually bake it in allows the bread to fit and travel snugly in a backpack for the botanical picnics I feed to adventurous attendees in just about every month of the year. But it’s also a comforting foundation for cheese suppers and a perfect dunk for soup lunches.
Above: Three-cornered leek and waterblommetjie focaccia in Cape Town in spring.
In spring, my focaccia may be laced with pungent ramp leaves, field garlic, dandelion flowers, nettle purée, or pheasant back mushrooms. In early summer, cherries with mugwort leaves, black currants, and elderberries, or chanterelles. Fall’s figs, persimmons, and local grapes follow. Winter’s focaccia feature hoshigaki (dried persimmons) and honey, dried aronia, or preserved mushrooms. The possibilities and improvisation are endless. Focaccia is an adaptable medium for edible creativity.
Above: Black currant and elderberry focaccia, using my kneaded focaccia dough method.
My go-to focaccia recipe has always been based on a kneaded dough. The dough is scented with Earl Grey tea and the soaking water for the fruit (the recipe is in the persimmon chapter of my cookbook Forage, Harvest, Feast). It makes a beautiful loaf, open to variation.
Above: Fig and mugwort flower focaccia, about to be baked.
But since spring this year I’ve been improvising wildly on a no-knead focaccia recipe shared generously on Instagram by the founders of Keepwell Vinegar. (Based in Dover, Pennsylvania, their inspiring line of vinegars is available online; but they appear to excel at any yeast-related.)
Here it is:
You can see why it is is irresistible.
The deep appeal of this focaccia is that the wet dough is not kneaded. Mix, rest, fold, rest, fold. The fun part, dimpling the delicately jiggly dough with olive-oiled fingers, follows. Toppings happen. And after a brief, blazing bake, you have a glorious focaccia.
Above: Blanched ramp leaves and ramp leaf stem confit adorn an April focaccia.
I live near Syracuse, New York, on the banks of Limestone Creek. I’ve lived here for 34 years and have enjoyed turning the property from a blank slate to a garden I love. I spent many hours hauling limestone rocks from the creek to edge my gardens, and built low walls to raise some gardens up a bit. We get lots of wildlife here, so I have to fence my vegetable garden, but otherwise I try to plant things the deer don’t really care to eat.
Check out this overwhelming floral display from a kousa dogwood (Cornuskousa, Zones 5–9). Kousa dogwoods can be less impressive when young, but as they get huge and mature like this, they are hard to beat.
Beautiful pairing of a peony (looks like Paeonia ‘Bartzella’, Zones 4–8) with a purple hardy geranium (Geranium sp.)
Magical foggy view of the garden, with butterfly weed (Asclepiastuberosa, Zones 5–9) glowing in the dim light
This stunning lacecap hydrangea (Hydrangeamacrophylla, Zones 5–9) is in full bloom. It’s hard to beat hydrangeas for floral display when they are happy.
The front garden is overflowing with flowers. I’m sure the dog does its best to keep the deer away.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
A whole year’s worth of nature activities for kids
We all know that spending time outside in nature is really good for our physical and mental health, but sometimes we need a bit of inspiration when it comes to fun activities for the family.
This engaging book is packed with ideas for nature-based play, including outdoor games, science experiments, scavenger hunts, nature challenges and walking games. There are 52 activities – one for every week of the year – all designed to make walks and outdoor play exciting.
It’s a fab source of inspiration for those days when you need to tempt everyone outside. It’s also a brilliant way to avoid the dreaded words “I’m bored!” when you’re out walking with little ones.
This book also makes a wonderful gift for the whole family to enjoy throughout the year – it’s an ideal Christmas present.
Find out more about ‘A Year of Nature Walks and Games’
This video shows some of the activities in the book:
You can also find out more about ‘A Year of Nature Walks and Games’ hereand *order your copy here. Who do you know that would enjoy trying out all the fun nature games and activities?
Win a copy of ‘A Year of Nature Walks and Games’
I’m giving away a copy of ‘A Year of Nature Walks and Games’ worth £14.99. To enter, follow the instructions in the Rafflecopter widget below. Good luck!
Waking up to a yard full of fallen leaves is a consequence of having deciduous trees. Dead foliage has unmistakable charm, but such litter can negatively impact your garden. Consider these seven tips to declutter your yard whenever fall rolls around.
Piling all dead foliage from various areas in one place requires proper tools. A 30-inch-wide rake designed to prevent skewering debris can get the job done on the ground quietly. Its size allows you to cover plenty of real estate and gather leaves of different sizes and shapes quickly.
Choose a spot where you want all leaves to end up and start raking toward it as far away as possible. On a breezy day, rake in the direction of the wind. If your yard is too expansive, put the little into leaf bags or tarps to corral or haul considerable loads of leaves faster.
Alternatively, use a leaf blower. This machine can be loud but efficient. It can handle the job when a rake is unfit — like when the terrain is rocky or when the space is finished. A leaf blower is also suitable for removing moisture-trapping organic buildup from your roof.
Regarding collection, turn to a leaf and litter vacuum. Some models are more portable than others, but all can bag leaves scattering around your yard quickly. Be mindful of twigs and rocks, though, because they can damage your equipment’s impeller.
Leaf removal can be a taxing chore. Should you do it incrementally or all at once? It depends on how much patience, time, and energy you have.
If you can tolerate the leaves lying around for a long time, wait for them to fall before decluttering your yard. Taking this route is time-efficient, but you risk depriving your grass of the sunlight it needs to grow. Deal with fallen leaves every weekend to make it more manageable if your body can’t handle such an exhausting task due to your physical condition or mold allergy.
Moreover, the weather adds complexity to the job. Rain and wind make it more challenging to rake and collect leaves, so take advantage of calm, sunny days.
Creating leaf mold is a way to break down fallen leaves using fungi. The product is a soil amendment, a material meant to improve the soil’s condition. Once decayed, the leaves become a dark, spongy substance rich in magnesium and calcium and emit a forest smell.
Making leaf mold is simple — just collect your leaf litter and let it sit in a corner or a bin. You can use a hand-held leaf blower to move the leaves in your yard into one spot. Then, the pile only needs moisture to degrade. Cover the pile with a tarp to keep it damp and cool, creating the perfect decomposition conditions. Turn it every few weeks with a shovel or a pitchfork to ensure everything decays evenly. Expect the finished product in about a year or so.
Want to create leaf mold while keeping your yard neat? Use plastic garbage bags. Wet the leaves inside, seal them, and poke holes for airflow. Check them every now and then, and add water when the bags’ contents begin to dry.
Leaf mold can serve as a base material for homemade potting soil. Blending equal parts of it with perlite makes a loose, soilless mix. You can also use it as mulch to suppress weed growth.
Double Down on Composting
Compost relies on bacteria to break down leaves. Composting is more physically demanding than the set-and-forget method of making leaf mold, but the composted leaves contain more nutrients to fertilize the soil and are free of pathogens and pests.
Add an equal layer of high-nitrogen matter, such as food scraps and manure.
Alternate layers of dry leaves and nitrogen-rich items until the pile is three feet tall and wide.
Transfer the compost to another stack or bin once a month.
Water dry patches and dry soggy or rot-smelling areas with leaves or sawdust, ensuring everything has the same moisture level and a damp sponge appearance.
Monitor moisture levels regularly until the compost becomes dark, smells earthy, and has a crumbly texture.
If you perform the steps correctly, you can have finished leaf compost in a few months. Otherwise, you may have to wait for more than a year. Shredding the leaves, turning the pile frequently, and moistening it whenever you turn it can speed up the process.
You can feed aged compost to your plants and crops in various ways. You can mix it with topsoil or add it as a side dressing to nourish garden beds for new and existing plants. It’s also an organic mulch that can inhibit weeds.
Can’t create leaf mold or compost? Bring your pile of dead foliage to a commercial or public composting facility. Fellow gardeners may find your unwanted resource useful for their leaf-molding, composting or mulching projects.
Use eco-friendly bags to haul them securely. Avoid sending them to landfills because they take up space reserved for nonrecyclable waste and release methane as they decompose. As a greenhouse gas, methane is 80 times more potent than carbon dioxide at warming the planet.
Think Twice Before Burning Them
Burning loose leaves in your yard can make them quickly disappear, but it may be illegal in your area. And legal or not, it’s unethical. This activity pollutes and releases irritants into the air. It can evolve into a fast-spreading fire, result in massive property damage, and endanger people’s lives.
Dead leaves make lively home decorations, such as Thanksgiving centerpieces, autumnal garlands, and wreaths. Leaf rubbing and painting is a fun activity for children.
Incorporating dry leaves into resin paperweights, sensory jars, and gel air fresheners also make beautiful and thoughtful gifts for your nature-loving friends and relatives. You can even sell your local crafts and profit from your yard’s waste.
Make the Most Out of Fallen Leaves
Leaf removal can be strenuous, but it doesn’t have to be an exercise in futility. With a resourceful mind, you can enrich your garden with them and keep your yard clean.
The classic aromatic allure of a linden tree in full bloom is usually enough to capture anyone’s attention. And even if you miss the timing of the elegant flowers, you’ll be romanced by the symbolic heart-shaped leaves.
Linden trees offer a harmonious blend of timeless grace and utilitarian strength.
From my perspective as a permaculture and food forest enthusiast, lindens are a dream thanks to their plethora of uses.
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As we explore the world of lindens, I invite you to embrace the qualities that make them a beloved choice for gardeners and nature enthusiasts alike – from their rich cultural history to their generous offerings of flowers and foliage.
Whether you’re drawn to their aesthetic appeal or their practical benefits, this guide is crafted to enrich your understanding of, and assist you in nurturing, these arboreal treasures.
Here’s a look at what I’ll cover:
Lindens occupy a sacred space in my heart and in my landscape. I hope they’ll win space in yours too. Ready to learn more about what makes them special? Let’s go!
What Are Linden Trees?
Lindens are the only tall tree members of the Malvaceae, or mallow, family of plants. This family also includes garden favorites like hollyhocks and rose of Sharon.
These trees belong to the Tilia genus, which contains about 30 species. They are deciduous shade trees found growing wild in forests and gracing gardens in both urban and rural settings in the United States, Canada, Europe, and Asia.
Commonly called linden, in North America these trees are often referred to as basswood, particularly the American basswood, T. americana.
The term “basswood” is derived from the word “bast,” which refers to the fibrous, pliable inner bark of the tree.
In some areas, especially in Europe, they are also known as a lime trees, not to be confused with citrus lime. In this case, the word “lime” is of Old English or Old High German descent, again with reference to the pliant, flexible bast found inside the tree.
Regardless of their other common names, all species within the Tilia genus are referred to as linden trees. There are many differences between some of the trees, but there are also many similarities.
This guide will provide a general overview of the genus, and then focus on some of the most common species grown in North America to dive a little deeper.
Most species grow well in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8, and a few can tolerate conditions in Zone 2 and Zone 9.
In ideal conditions, and depending on the species, lindens can reach heights of 40 to 100 feet tall with canopies spreading 30 to 60 feet wide.
They grow quickly when they’re young, but then average out to a moderate growth rate. They’ll reach their mature size, or full expression, after 30 to 60 years.
During spring and summer, the importance and value of lindens become front and center in the guild they support, for both humans and other creatures we share our environments with, including pollinators and squirrels.
As spring emerges, lindens begin to show signs of life as they break dormancy. Buds swell and then open, giving way to edible, heart-shaped leaves that unfurl in a fresh, vibrant green hue. Leaves are typically serrated or toothed along their edges.
By late spring, the trees are adorned in fragrant, pale cream or yellow flowers. These flowers are often pendulous, hanging in clusters. The flowers are edible, and they’re also a favorite of bees, drawing them in with their sweet scent and nectar.
Moving through summer, the canopy is dense and full, providing ample shade, and this foliage remains a rich green. Flowers begin to fade, then produce small, round, nut-like fruits.
These fruits are typically attached to a wing-shaped “leaf,” known as a bract or bracteole, that aids in dispersal by the wind when they detach.
The fruits, although not toxic, are not recommended for human consumption. They’re small and hard, and not particularly palatable. But although we might not like the taste of them, birds and squirrels sure do!
The trees continue to be a hub of activity through the seasons, with various insects frequenting the flowers for their nectar, and squirrels collecting seeds. As temperatures drop and days shorten in fall, lindens begin their next transformation.
The once-green leaves take on shades of golden-yellow, offering a warm and festive autumnal display. Fruits mature and drop, scattering around the base or floating off with the wind.
The foliage colors are not as dramatic as some other deciduous trees in fall, but charming with their golden accent.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
After shedding the leaves, linden trees reveal a skeletal branch structure and interior during the winter months.
Even in their leafless winter state, linden trees offer visual interest, the striking silhouette picturesque against the backdrop of winter sky or under a blanket of snow.
Some specimens may hold a few odd, dried fruits, adding charming texture to bare branches. And they do make cheerful displays when lit with outdoor lights!
The smooth, grayish bark becomes prominently furrowed or ridged as the trees mature. The strong, upright branches may grow in pyramidal or rounded forms, depending on the species.
These low-maintenance trees are not only revered for their ornamental value, but are tolerant of air pollution, which makes them a preferred choice for urban settings and developments.
Cultivation and History
Lindens are native to Europe and the eastern United States, as well as Asia, which boasts the highest number of different species.
The Tilia genus is ancient, with fossil records dating back 70 million years.
Over time, the genus has evolved and diversified, leading to the 30 or more different species we know today, each with unique characteristics.
Lindens have been a part of history for millennia, with their presence noted in various ancient texts and archaeological sites.
This tree holds a special place in cultures around the world. In some European traditions, the linden was, and still is, considered a sacred tree – often associated with love, fertility, and protection.
Its heart-shaped leaves, hinting to the symbol of love, were carried by those seeking love and romance; and marriage ceremonies were held under the branches of special village linden trees.
In Slavic mythology, the linden was revered as a holy tree, dedicated to Lada, the goddess of love and beauty. It’s also associated with Freya of Germanic lore, as well as Venus, the Roman goddess of love, and Aphrodite of Greek mythology.
The name “linden” is derived from the Old High German word “linta” and the Old English word “linde.” Over time, these terms evolved into the modern English word “linden.”
This tree has a significant connection to renowned Swedish botanist, Carl Linnaeus – it inspired his name.
To explain briefly, many Swedish names like Lindgren or Lindholm are derived from the word linden. As an example, the name Lindholm suggests a connection to a place where linden trees are prominent.
Inspired by the mighty linden that stood on the family farm in Vittaryd, Smaland, Carl Linnaeus’ father chose to adopt the name “Linnaeus.”
However, the cultural significance is not only limited to myths and legends. Its practical applications, such as in the production of honey and use of the wood to construct lightweight wooden objects, have made it a valuable resource.
Although categorized as a hardwood, the basswood is soft, light and pliable, making it easy to work with.
This wood is one of the best kinds for making hand carvings, baskets, and window blinds, and is also used to make musical instruments such as the bodies of guitars. Other applications include veneers, plywood, as well as pulp and fiber products.
The medicinal properties, especially from the flowers, have been recognized in traditional medicine for centuries.
Herbal remedies include treatment for colds, coughs, fever, infections, inflammation, high blood pressure, and headaches. It can also be used as a diuretic and the flowers make a soothing tea known for its mild sedative properties.
Over time, as urbanization has increased, lindens have become a popular choice for city environmental planning and development projects.
With their versatility and aesthetic appeal, species in the Tilia genus give us many reasons to admire, appreciate, and incorporate them into our own gardens and landscape designs.
Let’s take a closer look at how to propagate lindens.
Linden Tree Propagation
Lindens can be propagated from collected or purchased seeds, or from cuttings. You can also buy young saplings from a reputable nursery or greenhouse to transplant into your garden.
From Seed
Like many other nut trees, lindens tend to produce more flowers and seeds in cycles every few years, and not all seeds are viable, which means during a year of low seed production, they could be a challenge to source.
In the wild, the seeds take an extended period of time to germinate due to their tough, impermeable coating. Incredibly, seeds can lie on the ground for five years or more without germinating, while still remaining viable.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
During this time, the seeds must undergo softening from precipitation as well as scarification from damage in order to germinate. This process can take a few years!
You could intentionally speed the process of germination by inducing scarification using sulfuric acid treatment, then following up with a stratification period that takes three to nine months.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m always keen to try new things. But the process required to successfully germinate linden seeds at home is tedious and unreliable. I don’t recommend it.
From Cuttings
Rooting of softwood cuttings offers a more reliable method of propagation. Plus, it will result in a clone of the tree your cutting is from, so you know exactly what you’re getting.
Here’s how to propagate from cuttings:
Plan to take your cutting in late spring or early summer from tender new growth. Young, lateral shoots do better than older or terminal shoots.
Ensure the parent tree is healthy and free of disease. Avoid taking cuttings from specimens that are showing symptoms of nutrient deficiency and stress.
Visual clues indicating stress or deficiency include discolored or wilting foliage, premature leaf drop, a sparse canopy, stunted growth, and pest infestations.
Prepare a tray or other container with sterile, low-fertility, well-draining medium that will retain moisture. Good choices include coarse sand, a mix of peat and perlite, or peat and sand.
Take your cutting early in the morning when the tree is holding the most moisture. Clean a sharp, thin knife or shears with rubbing alcohol to disinfect the blade. Cut a four- to six-inch-long shoot.
Remove the leaves from the lower one-third to one-half of your cutting and treat it with a rooting hormone. Tap off any excess if you’re using a powdered product.
Moisten the potting medium and insert the cutting one-third to one-half of its length into the medium, ensuring the buds are pointed upward.
Space the cuttings a few inches apart to allow all leaves to receive sunlight.
Cover your tray and cuttings with plastic and place them in a warm location with indirect light, avoiding direct sunlight. Keep the medium moist and mist regularly.
The rooting time will take between four to eight weeks. Once rooted, avoid transplanting directly into the ground.
Instead, move your young plants to containers that are at least six to eight inches in diameter to provide ample space for root development.
Wait until they reach at least 12 to 18 inches in height before transplanting out into your landscape.
Transplanting
Whether you’ve grown your own clone from a cutting or purchased a sapling from a nursery, transplanting your young tree is straightforward and easy!
For container-grown specimens, aim to transplant during dormancy. This is either late fall or early spring before bud break. For bare roots, the best time to transplant will depend on your climate.
If you live in the north, bare roots might not survive early freezing in the fall, so aim for spring. But if you live in the south, tender roots could be exposed to too much heat before they are established. In this case, aim to plant bare root saplings in the fall.
Because lindens can grow up 100 feet tall and spread up to 60 feet, they should be spaced accordingly, providing 30 to 60 feet between them and other nearby trees or structures.
If you haven’t conducted a soil test yet, this would be a good time to do it.
If your soil is poor, you’ll want to plan ahead and amend the backfill by mixing in one or two shovels of compost. Do not add fresh manure or chemical fertilizer as this could burn the delicate roots.
When you’re ready, begin by preparing your planting hole. Remove sod and weeds around the area. For container-grown specimens, dig a hole twice as wide and just as deep as the root ball.
For bare roots, your hole should be large enough to accommodate the roots without any restriction.
If you are planting a bare root, pile a little mound of soil in the bottom of the hole and spread the roots gently on top of the mound.
For container-grown trees, remove the tree from its pot, and loosen the roots gently, teasing them apart if they’re tightly bound. Trim any damaged or unhealthy roots.
The root ball should be as deep in the ground as it was in its container.
In the case of bare root trees, ensure all roots are under the level of the ground, with the trunk flare even with the surrounding surface. You may need to adjust the height of your small supporting mound to achieve the ideal level.
Backfill carefully and gradually, gently tamping the soil as you cover the roots. This will remove air pockets around the roots as you work. Tamp the surface, firming around the root system, then water in slowly and thoroughly.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
I like to water my new trees in with two successive watering sessions. I give them two or three gallons of water, let it drain, and then repeat. This helps to remove small air pockets from the soil and ensures a deep initial watering.
Spread a two-inch layer of wood chip mulch around the base of your tree, far enough from the trunk to cover the size of the planting hole – or to the drip line whichever is larger.
The drip line is the imaginary line on the ground that matches the circumference of the tree’s canopy above. Avoid piling mulch against the trunk, as this can encourage rot and rodent damage.
Mulch improves the soil as it decomposes and also suppresses weeds while creating a barrier to protect against moisture loss and extreme temperatures.
I always stake my new, young specimens for at least one full year after planting. This keeps them stable as their roots become established, especially in the case of bare root trees.
Pound two or three stakes into the ground one to two feet away from the trunk and secure the tree with soft straps.
The last thing I always do is protect the trunk with a tree wrap.
Herbivores rarely bother lindens, but when they’re hungry, the soft, tender bark of any young tree becomes a delicious feast for rabbits. Trust me, I’ve learned the hard way.
I’ve tried several trunk protector designs, and my favorite is the spiral design like this one made by Goetor, available via Amazon.
The pack of four contains two different sizes, so you can match the best size for your tree.
They are almost spring-like, making it easy to install and remove, and simple to periodically inspect the bark on the trunk. They also expand as the trunk grows.
How to Grow Linden Trees
Linden trees are somewhat forgiving, but as with all plants they thrive best and reach their maximum potential under ideal conditions. Let’s explore a few of their general needs:
They flourish in full sun but will tolerate partial shade, and they prefer moist and well-draining, rich, loamy soils with a neutral pH.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
That said, they’re capable of withstanding average soil composition and a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline pH level as well. The recommended pH range is 6.0 to 8.0.
The watering needs of a young tree are different from those of an established specimen. They need more water during the first year or two after planting, and then become less demanding as they mature. Let’s take a look at what that watering looks like.
Newly planted specimens require consistent and thorough watering to establish their root systems, with a general guideline of providing water every two to three days in the absence of rain.
It’s crucial to ensure that the water penetrates deeply into the soil, reaching the entire root ball and surrounding area to promote healthy root growth.
On the other hand, established lindens have more extensive root systems and typically require less frequent watering, with a good soaking every few weeks during dry periods being sufficient.
However, it is important to monitor soil moisture levels and adjust your watering practices accordingly, as established trees can still suffer from drought stress, particularly in extended dry conditions.
If you’re wondering whether or not you should water, try the simple finger test. Stick your finger three inches into the soil around the drip line. If it’s dry, then it’s time to water. If it’s moist, check again in another day or two.
If you’ve acquired a property with an existing linden that doesn’t seem to be thriving, it’s a good idea to test the soil for nutrient levels and pH and adjust accordingly.
They also carry the Rapitest pH test kit at Gardener’s Supply if you’re concerned about the pH level.
You should also inspect moisture levels and drainage and develop a plan to improve these conditions.
What does this mean? If a tree is planted in shade, in poor soil, and adequate moisture is not maintained, it will likely do poorly in comparison to one planted in full sun, rich loamy soil with good drainage, and watered regularly.
In summary, choose the right site, amend poor soil with organic matter, adjust the pH level to improve it if necessary, and irrigate until the tree is established, which could take one to three years.
Growing Tips
Choose a planting site with full sun.
Plant in rich, loamy soil that is well-draining.
Provide consistent moisture especially when trees are young.
Space new plantings 30 to 60 feet apart, depending on the species.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning guidelines for linden trees vary depending on the species you are growing. The best method for pruning depends on your species and its growth habit.
For example, the European linden, T. x europaea, tends to sucker from the base, so it must be pruned regularly to avoid becoming an overgrown mess.
It’s also worth noting that lindens such as the little leaf cultivar ‘Greenspire’ can be pruned and trained to form a dense allee, or tall hedge. This pruning method is called pleaching.
Pruning like this, as well as any other trimming of tall, large mature trees, is usually best left to professionals. You might want to find a good arborist nearby to perform this task!
Editorial Credit: Here Now / Shutterstock.com
Generally, as with most deciduous trees, pruning should be performed during dormancy. This means it should be done during the coldest months, or at least before the specimen breaks dormancy in early spring.
If there is an immediate need to do so, a few small branches can be removed during the summer after the flowers have faded.
Aim to remove any dead, diseased, crossing, and crowded branches. It’s also beneficial to trim lower branches to facilitate easy movement and maintenance underneath the canopy.
This creates a comfortable space for relaxing in the shade, and simplifies lawn mowing and garden tending tasks, and is best done while the tree is young and developing, by targeting one or two lower branches annually over a period of several years until the optimal clearance is achieved.
As the tree grows tall, the shape of a mature specimen can be maintained with a regular pruning session by professionals every three to five years.
Spring is the best time to top-up with a fresh layer of mulch. Freshen it up annually to maintain a two- to four-inch-thick layer. Avoid piling mulch against the trunk, be sure to keep it a few inches away.
As your linden matures, its root zone will increase in diameter. To protect the developing roots below the soil, gradually expand the mulched area outward, eliminating grass and following the size of the drip line if possible.
If your space won’t allow for this, aim for at least three feet of width around the base of the trunk.
Many people wonder if they should include fertilization in their regular maintenance routine. Before fertilizing your linden, assess its health. It’s a common misconception that we should fertilize every year.
If your tree is healthy and showing new growth, there is no need to apply fertilizer. If your tree shows signs of poor health or slow growth, test the soil first, then amend with appropriate nutrients accordingly.
The only winter care maintenance tip to implement is when your tree is three years of age or less.
As I mentioned before, bunnies and other critters might see the tender flesh of the trunk as an easy-access snack during the cold months. Protect young trunks with a barrier, especially during the winter.
Linden Species and Cultivars to Select
There are a variety of linden species with unique characteristics and suited to different growing zones.
Whether you’re situated in the cooler northern regions or the warmer southern states, you’ll find options that thrive in your specific climate, ensuring a successful and flourishing addition to your landscape.
American Basswood
T. americana, known as American basswood or American linden, is a common species native to central and eastern North America.
This is a medium to large, pyramidal shaped tree that reaches a maximum height of 50 to 80 feet, with some reaching over 100 feet.
Well-suited for USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 8, T. americana is one of the most common North American lindens. Great for shade, its leaves are large, dark green on the top surface with silvery undersides.
You can find your own three- to four-foot tall container-grown or four- to five-foot bare root American linden at Nature Hills Nursery.
‘Redmond’ is an award-winning T. americana cultivar, suited for Zones 3 to 8. It reaches a maximum height of 60 feet at maturity.
Pyramidal in shape when young, this cultivar will fill out to a full, upright oval shape at maturity.
Its leaves are a whopping four to eight inches long, and are some of the last to change color in fall. They may fade to a pale green or yellow before falling from the tree.
Fragrant, light yellow flowers emerge in June, in showy, two- to three-inch clusters.
You can find ‘Redmond’ available as a five- to six-foot bare root or in a #3 container at Nature Hills.
‘McSentry’ is a compact T. americana cultivar, topping out at about 45 feet tall at maturity. Also known as American Sentry® linden, this tree is suited for Zones 3 to 8.
This cultivar maintains a uniform, symmetrical shape as it matures and is said to be less attractive to Japanese beetles than the species.
Carolina basswood, T. americana var. caroliniana, is a variety of American basswood that grows natively in South Carolina, Florida, Texas, and north to Oklahoma and Missouri.
This species performs best in USDA Zones 6 to 9. It has a fast growth rate and reaches a maximum height of 100 feet tall.
Carolina basswoods produce leaves up to five inches long and fragrant, yellow-to-white drooping flower clusters.
European Linden
The European linden, T. x europaea, sometimes referred to as common linden or common lime, is a naturally occurring hybrid cross between the large-leaved linden, T. platyphyllos, and the littleleaf linden, T. cordata.
This tree’s canopy exhibits a full, rounded growth pattern into maturity, which is less pyramidal compared to the American linden.
European lindens tend to sucker from the base and will require regular pruning.
This hybrid has slightly better tolerance for urban conditions like air pollution than other species. Thriving in USDA Zones 3 to 9, this tree can reach a mature height of 50 to 90 feet.
Littleleaf Linden
T. cordata, commonly known as the littleleaf linden, is a medium-sized species native to Europe that has been widely planted in the United States.
It has become naturalized in some of the northeastern states. It offers dense shade and maxes out at 50 to 60 feet tall at maturity.
Compared to other linden species, the leaves of littleleaf are – little – usually one to three inches long.
Stem color also differs, with a greenish to brown hue. The canopies of littleleaf specimens tend to be more dense than those of other species in the genus.
You can order your own T. cordatafrom Nature Hills Nursery, as either a three- to four-foot tall container-grown or a five- to six-foot tall bare root specimen.
‘Greenspire’ is the most common littleleaf cultivar sold in the United States. It keeps its symmetrical, pyramidal shape as it matures and maxes out at about 40 to 50 feet tall.
This cultivar does well in urban settings, is tolerant of air pollution, and produces lovely yellowish flowers in spring.
You’ll find T. cordata ‘Greenspire,’ aka ‘PN 6025,’ in two- to three-gallon containers or as five- to six-foot-tall bare root trees at Nature Hills.
Silver Linden
Silver linden, T. tomentosa, is native to Europe and Asia, and also known as European white lime or white lime tree. It typically grows to a maximum height of 50 to 70 feet.
The leaves are distinctive – glossy green on top and silvery-white underneath.
They appear to shimmer thanks to little white hairs on the silver side, and when they flutter in the breeze, the silver and green flash with movement.
This species grows best in Zones 4 to 7.
T. tomentosa ‘Sterling’ grows to about 40 feet tall and 30 feet wide. It boasts dark green leaves with the signature silvery underside and creamy yellow flowers in spring.
T. tomentosa ‘Petriolaris,’ is commonly known as weeping silver or pendant silver linden.
Although it shares the characteristic of white leaf undersides, its branches droop, differentiating it from the silver linden.
This cultivar grows best in USDA Zones 5 to 9 and reaches a height of 75 feet tall.
Managing Pests and Disease
Linden trees are generally tolerant of pests. Rabbits and deer may enjoy nibbling tender bark and shoots, but only when trees are young.
It’s a good idea to protect new plantings with deer fencing and trunk protectors.
Aside from herbivores, certain insects and diseases might affect the health of your linden tree. Let’s take a closer look.
Insects
Linden trees are magnets for insects, but few will do enough damage to severely impact the health of the trees. However insects that puncture or wound plant tissue can leave the trees vulnerable to disease-causing pathogens.
And certain insects, like aphids, can vector pathogens that might infect and damage trees, so it’s important to be aware of these pests and learn about methods of control.
It’s also important to note that because lindens are so attractive to pollinators, especially in the spring when they are in bloom, it’s crucial to consider the negative impact that systemic insecticides might have on these beneficial insect populations.
Some states like Oregon, Connecticut, and Rhode Island have banned the use of insecticides on linden trees for this reason.
Let’s take a look at a few pests that you may come across.
Basswood Lace Bug
Gargaphia tiliae, commonly known as the linden lace bug or basswood lace bug, is specifically associated with these trees.
They feed on all members of the Tilia genus, but have a particular fondness for T. tomentosa. Native to eastern Europe, they have become an increasing challenge in North America in recent years.
Both adults and nymphs use their piercing mouthparts to extract juices from the foliage, which results in tiny chlorotic spots or “stippling” on the leaf surface. Damage may cause leaves to turn yellow or brown.
To manage these pests, you can spray with a strong jet of water from the hose or apply insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils.
Some systemic insecticides are also effective, but if you choose this method take care to read and follow label instructions to avoid any negative impact on pollinators.
Basswood Leaf Miner
The basswood leaf miner, Baliosus nervosus (previously called B. ruber) skeletonizes and damages foliage.
Although it’s been observed to attack birch, elm, oak, and willow, this pest primarily targets the American basswood tree.
Brown, quarter-inch adults overwinter in leaf litter and debris. They emerge in spring to feed on leaves, then lay eggs inside damaged foliage in June.
After hatching, the larvae feed on the foliage. Pupation occurs in the leaf, and adults emerge in August.
When populations grow out of control, an entire tree can become affected, causing leaves of the whole canopy to take on a reddish-brown hue. This might be especially noticeable in mid-to-late August.
Upon close inspection, leaf damage appears as scarifying or surface skeletonizing, leaving behind a fine-textured matrix of leaf veins.
Treatment with insecticides is not an effective control method. Removing and disposing of debris in the vicinity of an affected tree can help to disrupt the life cycle of these pests.
Elm Sawfly
The elm sawfly caterpillar, Cimbex americana, grows more than two inches long, making it one of the largest sawfly caterpillars in North America. The feeding defoliates many deciduous shade trees, including lindens.
Adults are large, deep metallic blue-colored, fly-like insects that emerge in late May to June. Adult sawflies feed on the tender bark of twigs, while the caterpillars feed on foliage.
Fortunately, the eggs and larvae are food for beneficial insects like parasitic wasps and other flies, and shrews and deer mice feed on the prepupae.
In the case of a large infestation, you can use neem oil or a pyrethrin based insecticide according to manufacturer’s instructions.
Eriophyid Mite
Eriophyes tiliae, aka eriophyid mites, cause various types of damage to plant tissue including blistering, distortion, and discoloration. One of the most common hosts is the linden tree.
Affected leaves develop nail galls, which appear as small, raised, nail-like or spiked protrusions on the upper surface.
Galls may be reddish and turn yellow or green in color. The underside of the leaf may reveal concave depressions beneath the galls.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
The damage is unsightly but is mostly cosmetic and doesn’t usually pose a severe threat to the health of the tree. No controls are recommended.
Miticides and other insecticides can kill off natural predators, so it’s best to let nature run its course in this case.
European Linden Bark Borer
The linden bark borer moth, Chrysoclista linneella, formerly known as Glyphipterix linneella, is a small, bright orange or yellowish-colored moth with black markings.
The larvae bore into the bark of deciduous trees, particularly the European linden.
As the larvae feed, they excrete rust-colored frass, and a honeycombed appearance is produced in the inner bark. In extreme cases, damaged outer bark can easily be crumbled by hand.
Monitoring for the frass which looks like a reddish, fine sawdust during May and June is key. Native braconid parasitic wasps are known to attack these borers and woodpeckers and sapsuckers will feed on them.
These pests generally target stressed or damaged trees, so maintaining tree health and vigor is a good cultural control strategy, as well as removing and destroying dead and dying trees.
Some chemicals like permethrin and bifenthrin may offer some control, but timing is crucial to disrupt the life cycle successfully without affecting beneficial insect populations.
Japanese Beetle
The Japanese beetle, Popillia japonica, is a scarab beetle easily identified by its metallic green head and thorax and copper-colored outer wing covers. Lindens are one of their favorite food sources.
These beetles are adept fliers and can move in large swarms, easily overtaking gardens and landscapes and leaving massive defoliation and damage in their wake.
When threatened, they often “play dead,” dropping from plants and then sometimes flying away as they fall.
Management of these beetles can be challenging due to their large numbers. Manual removal is effective but can be a challenge with tall trees.
Bait traps are also effective when placed at least 50 feet away from the site requiring protection.
Lecanium scale, specifically Parthenolecanium corni, is a pest that targets these trees. They are noticeable in spring when females expand in size.
As they swell, they produce egg masses beneath their bodies and release a significant amount of honeydew which coats nearby foliage.
Females vary in color from red to dark brown and appear as small, oval bumps resembling “helmets” or “turtles” on branches and stems. These pests overwinter on twigs and branches of the host tree.
To manage an out-of-control scale infestation, consider using systemic insecticides such as imidacloprid or dinotefuran, which localize the insecticide within the target plant, reducing the need for external sprays and ensuring the pests are effectively targeted.
Apply the treatment between mid-October and November, or opt for an early treatment in April to May for optimal control.
Alternatively, aim for a more natural approach by controlling scale in their newly hatched nymph stage, otherwise known as “crawlers.”
Monitor their emergence in early summer through visual assessments or by using black electrical tape to catch them, then treat with horticultural oils or insecticidal soaps quickly upon detection.
The linden aphid, Eucallipterus tiliae, or lime aphid, can be problematic thanks to the large amount of honeydew it produces. The honeydew can lead to the formation of black sooty mold.
During the blooming period, aphid populations can become difficult to control, and it is tempting to use systemic insecticides.
However, this is the time that honeybees are most attracted to the tree, and the insecticide can kill them at the same time.
With several documented cases of mass bumble bee mortality linked to insecticide use to control the linden aphid, caution must be taken to protect bee populations.
Biocontrol efforts, such as the introduction of parasitic wasps, may be an alternative treatment.
The linden looper, Erannis tiliaria, also known as lime looper, is native to the northern United States and parts of Canada.
Typically, populations of these caterpillars stay within normal range but sometimes populations can rise in deciduous trees, causing massive defoliation of trees across multiple states.
Adult female moths lay eggs in clusters under loose bark. These eggs hatch into caterpillars that feed on the foliage for the next month.
Banding trunks in the fall is an effective management method. Pupae live in the soil beneath leaf litter, so regular raking and clean-up beneath affected trees from late summer through fall will also assist during infestations.
Disease
Linden trees are susceptible to a few different diseases. Let’s take a look at the most common ones to watch for and learn the best ways to handle them.
Anthracnose
Anthracnose is a fungal disease caused by Gnomonia tiliae, which manifests as elongated light brown areas along leaf veins, usually near the tips. The spots are bordered by distinct black bands. Severe infections can defoliate the tree.
While some fungicides can prevent anthracnose, their effectiveness is not guaranteed. Once the symptoms are prominent or severe, managing the disease becomes challenging.
Since environmental conditions like excessive rainfall and irrigation can exacerbate this disease, it’s wise to ensure proper spacing between trees and surrounding plants for better air circulation and sunlight exposure.
Leaf Blight
Linden trees are susceptible to the fungus Cercospora microsora which causes circular brown spots with dark borders. When spots become numerous, entire leaves can turn brown and fall from the tree.
Damage is rarely serious enough to warrant the use of fungicides.
Linden Leaf Blotch
Linden leaf blotch, caused by the fungal pathogen Didymosphaeria petrakiana, commonly affects these trees.
Symptoms typically begin in late summer, often starting as small specks that expand into larger blotches on the foliage. These blotches are characterized by dark brown centers with a distinct feathery margin.
This disease rarely becomes severe, but if it does it can lead to complete defoliation of the tree by mid-September. No effective chemical treatments will rid a tree of this fungus.
To manage it, remove and destroy affected fallen leaves. The severity should be reduced the following spring if conditions are dry enough to suppress it.
Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is another fungal disease caused by Phyllactinia guttata. It shows up as white to gray powdery spots, blotches, or felt-like mats on the leaves, stems, and buds of infected trees.
Symptoms are often most severe on young leaves and green shoots. It usually does not cause significant harm to the overall health of trees but can alter their appearance, usually in spring or fall. Leaves of lower, shaded branches may become deformed and turn yellow, and even die in severe cases.
To manage powdery mildew, employ proper pruning to improve light penetration and air circulation between branches, but be cautious with your timing as this can stimulate new growth that is more susceptible to mildew.
During the growing season, limit pruning to severely affected branches only, then aim to prune further during dormancy as needed.
Fungicides can be used to treat severe cases and they can be applied early and repeatedly, according to label instructions, on trees with a history of disease.
If your tree has had powdery mildew in previous seasons, you can treat it with a fungicide before symptoms appear, and continue periodical treatment to keep symptoms at bay.
Look for fungicides that contain chlorothalonil, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur, or thiophanate methyl.
Verticillium wilt affects a wide range of deciduous trees, including lindens. It’s caused by fungi, primarily Verticillium dahlia and V. albo-atrum, which enter through the roots and grow in the xylem.
Essentially, the pathogens obstruct the tree’s vascular system, specifically the xylem, which is responsible for transporting water and nutrients from the roots to the rest of the plant. This obstruction can lead to a reduced water flow, causing foliage to wilt and potentially die.
It manifests as sudden yellowing, wilting, and death of leaves and branches, often beginning in one section of a tree. Infected trees cannot be cured.
You might be able to extend the life of the specimen by nurturing it with care, pruning out infected branches, and meticulously watering and fertilizing based on soil tests.
But be aware that this disease can spread. For this reason, it might be best to remove and carefully dispose of infected trees.
However, this disease can easily be misdiagnosed by amateurs, so if you suspect an infection it’s wise to consult a professional arborist for an accurate identification before taking drastic action.
Best Uses for Linden Trees
Linden trees are beloved for their ornamental value and for providing shade in gardens and landscape designs.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
Weeping forms add a unique aesthetic with their pendulous branching patterns. And as I mentioned earlier in this guide, some varieties can be planted and maintained strategically to form windbreaks.
Lindens have significant importance in some cultures, but this is not limited to symbolism, myths, and legends. Practical uses, such as the production of wooden objects, have established linden wood as a valuable resource.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
The flowers are a valuable nectar source for honeybees, and the honey produced by bees foraging this nectar is high quality, flavorful, and popular.
It’s fair to say the versatility of these trees is important in both horticulture and practical applications.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Deciduous shade tree
Flower / Foliage Color:
Creamy white to pale yellow; green, yellow in fall
Native to:
Asia, Europe, North America
Water Needs:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
2-9
Maintenance:
Low once established
Bloom Time/Season:
Spring, summer
Tolerance:
Air pollution, average soil, slightly alkaline and slightly acidic soils
Americana, amurensis, cordata, japonica, platyphyllos, tomentosa, x europaea, x euchlora
Capturing Hearts Everywhere
With their classic beauty, alluring fragrant flowers, and practical functionality, these trees effortlessly capture our hearts. I admire my own linden tree as a symbol of love – love for my family, for my gardens, and for life.
No matter our reason for choosing these trees, it’s clear they’re considered more than just a backdrop in our landscapes. In this guide, we’ve covered everything about planting and growing your own linden tree. The only thing left to decide is where to plant your own!
Does a linden grace your garden already? Which type are you going to plant? Share with us in the comments section below.
If you live in a hot summer climate, plant these ten perennial herbs once, and you’ll enjoy harvests for years!
A perennial is a species that completes its life cycle over three or more years, with the ability to survive both winter and summer and can be harvested without killing the plant. Each one of these herbs has survived for several years in my low desert Arizona garden.
Perennial herbs are a simple way to increase production and yield in the garden. Once you plant them, you can harvest them for years to come!
10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow
1. Bay Laurel
Bay Laurel is a slow grower and can take up to 2 years to establish, but once it does, it can survive for many years.
2. Lemon Grass
Lemon grass is easy to grow and requires very little maintenance. It grows well in partial sun or full sun and well-drained soil.
I like to grow sage in the corner of a raised bed. It prefers well-drained soil with full sunlight. Give this perennial herb a trim in early spring and again at the end of summer to keep it looking it’s best.
When choosing a transplant, rub a leaf to smell the aroma. Choose plants with the most potent aroma for the best flavor. Planting oregano in pots or containers is a great option to prevent spreading.
Thyme is my favorite perennial herb for cooking. I usually grow thyme in several locations throughout my garden. It does best with afternoon shade during the summer.
Mint can spread, so grow in containers. This tough plant often dies back during the hottest months of the year but usually returns with abundant growth in the fall.
When I was at Chanticleer Garden in Pennsylvania in September a lovely young woman walked up to me and introduced herself. She was working at the amazingly inspirational garden as an intern (and that is a great, hard-to-land gig, by the way). Well it turns out that she also happens to sell a fabulous leather tool belt. With several nice “pockets” for pruners, knives, a phone and other in-the-garden necessities, it also has a wide nylon waist strap, which I find to be more comfortable than a leather one. And you can’t beat the price.
A big, beautiful, high-quality pot is one of those things that a lucky recipient will have forever. They are classic and classy, and just about every gardener can use one. Seibert and Rice makes stunning, frostproof, Italian terracotta pots that will be used for decades to come. If you’re struggling to choose a style, I think you can’t go wrong with any of the rolled rim designs.
This blog started with my struggles with water wands and I’ve been trying just about every one on the market since then. And I’m happy to report that I now have two I quite like. The first is Dramm’s Professional Watering Wand in the 36-inch length, which you think you don’t need but you do. It works better for me with the 170 water breaker (that’s the smaller one that provides better flow, in my opinion). Thumb “volume” control is where it’s at.
The other is Hoselink’s water wand. This one is a bit thicker and has a fixed head that puts out a nice, soft flow. It has a bend to it that is odd at first and then suddenly seems very natural and practical. It comes with the Hoselink quick connect fitting attached and I recommend this one if you don’t want a longer length wand and you use the Hoselink Hose Reel.
OK, so the color of twine isn’t that important, but I do love black twine, which disappears in the garden when used for propping up gravity-afflicted plants. Nutscene Tin o’ Twine also has nice packaging, which is how garden twine can become a gift. I like that it lasts all season but can go in the compost to break down. 
If your recipient is all about practical, then it’s time to dispense with fancy and go fully functional. And that’s where this photo storage-turned seed storage system comes in. I’ve been using these (I have two) for years and they are the best for sheer practicality. 
Niwaki’s Crean Mate is a little block of magic. I’ve been told it’s a pumic stone, but it seems more magical than that. A Crean Mate and a little water cleans rust, sap and whatever the goo that ends up on pruners and other blades is. The Crean Mate is the first step in cleaning or sharpening my tools and I’d be lost without it. In fact, I just bought three more to stick in drawers all over the place. There is a regular size and the new mini, which I prefer because it’s easier to get into nooks and crannies.
