While I definitely don’t consider myself a trendsetter—or even a person who follows trends—my interest is always piqued when I learn of new gardening approaches and tricks. Here, I’ve rounded up a few of my favorites that I plan to try this coming year. (And if you’re ahead of the game and have already given these a go, let us know how it went in the Comments.)
Liquid seaweed is a well-known wonderful organic fertilizer, but how about whole seaweed as pest control? Researchers are experimenting with seaweed to fight various plant invaders, and so are gardeners. Some claim that this briny treasure from the sea works as an excellent snail and slug repellent. Plus, it benefits the soil with ready-to-use trace minerals and helps block out weeds—and it’s free if you live near a beach! The theory goes like this: Since seaweed holds a lot of salt, it will repel slugs and snails, which detest salt. Furthermore, when seaweed dries it becomes crackly and crisp, which soft-bodied slugs and snails also dislike.
I plan to gather some fresh seaweed and use it like a wet mulch around vulnerable plants, or place it around the perimeter of a garden bed. The recommendation is to layer it about 4-inches-high because it will shrink as it dries. If you’re planning to give this a try, I’d suggest keeping the seaweed away from stems and leaves (as they don’t enjoy the salt either) and collect only the seaweed you need (as seaweed provides shelter and food for various marine life).
As you probably guessed, this is the joining of the words edible and ornamental, the idea being that a plant can be both tasty and decorative at the same time. As someone who loves to multitask, I’m drawn to plants that adopt the same behavior. Edimentals can be annuals, perennials, trees, or shrubs. Looking closer, options include edible leaves, berries, fruits, roots, or flowers.
What I appreciate about edimentals is that harvesting becomes more like foraging as the plants are dispersed around a garden instead of living in a designated patch or bed. The other positive aspect is that most edimentals also attract pollinators. Here are some plants I will add this year: Artichokes for their bold architectural leaves, perennial herbs like chives (which have charming pink flower heads), and Nasturiums whose flowers can be tossed in salads.
This idea came from a client of mine who swears by this technique, an old trick that has been passed down for generations of gardeners. I knew about adding crushed egg shells to compost bins and as a topdressing, but this method—in which you add a whole, unbroken raw egg to the bottom of your planting hole—is new to me. My client found that when she did this in a few pots, she discovered the egg-filled pots looked greener and grew larger than the egg-less pots (her controls).
This form of direct composting theoretically results in boosted soil nutrients, especially calcium and beneficial mycorrhizea. Some other sources say that buried eggs are excellent for tomatoes to prevent blossom end rot. I understand that this technique is not a quick solution as the decomposition process needs time to occur and that I could be encouraging raccoons or other curious creatures to investigate if they detect an odor, but I am willing to try. (Side note: As someone who is mildly allergic to eggs, I don’t feel bad repurposing them for the betterment of plants.)
This is your GPOD editor, Joseph, from my frozen garden in northern Indiana. Winter has well and truly arrived for me here, we’ve had a few snows, good hard freezes. Not much is going on in the garden outside, but luckily for me, I live a short walk from a wonderful public conservatory. I love public spaces like these, a little magical escape from the winter cold into a delightful haven of plants. Here’s a little taste of some things that caught my eye on my last visit:
Where you’ll usually find me in the conservatory… that little set of table and chairs is a great place to work when working from home is starting to get a little old.
I love seeing the bird of paradise (Strelitziareginae, Zone 10 – 11) in bloom. These huge flowers are structured to be pollinated by sunbirds in their native South Africa. Unlike hummingbirds, sunbirds can’t hover, so the base of the flower is very strong to provide them with a perch while they get in at the nectar and pollinate the blooms.
This huge plant is another bird-of-paradise, this one with white flowers (Strelitzianicolai). THey’re just as cool looking, but the plants are so big it is much harder to actually get a good look at the blooms.
Some of the oldest plants in the conservatory started as houseplants that came to live their best lives here. This is the familiar jade plant (Cassulaovata), but I’ve never seen it get half this huge on a windowsill!
I love these plant stands, which display a wide array of cool succulent plants. It is always fun to take a close look at each of these living sculptures.
This specimen caught my eye today – a variegated agave (Agavevictoriae–reginae ‘Golden Princess’).
The desert dome is a favorite part of the conservatory. The huge home covers a wide range of dry-adapted plants and really makes it feel like I’ve stepped out into another world.
Most dramatic are these huge agaves (Agaveamericana, Zone 8 – 11). I wonder how old they might be… they certainly have been here a while, and just look amazing.
All along the edge of the desert dome are more potted treasures. This is a cool cactus grafted onto another cactus rootstock. Grafting difficult or fussy cactus onto a more vigorous variety is a surprisingly easy way to make them a lot easier to grow.
I’m in love with this paper spine cactus (Tephrocactusarticulatus var. papyracanthus). How cool are those long, flat spines?
An assortment of cool cactus filling a big planter. Many of these species are very slow growing, and these massive specimens are truly special and wonderful to see.
How are you escaping with the winter slow down in gardening? Visiting conservatories? Enjoying your houseplants? Or do you just live somewhere warm enough that gardening goes on all year? Please send in your photos! Those of us in a cold climate need some vicarious gardening to get through the snowy months!
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
For what seems like 8 million years, I have grown ‘Tomatoberry’. It’s a small cherry tomato variety that is not rare or superflashy, but it works well for me, so I stick with it. My gardening friends are similar: They plant the same varieties year after year because those varieties are proven performers and they don’t want to mess with what works. But when you rock the boat a bit, you occasionally stumble upon a new variety that is just as great, or perhaps even better, than the old standbys. That’s how I ended up replacing my ‘Sweet 100’s’ cherry tomatoes with ‘Tomatoberry’ many years ago. The following options may not be brand-new, but they have proven themselves to be reliable “newer” vegetables, and they might be good additions to your garden this season.
‘Flashy Trout Back’ is a sweeter-than-normal romaine
I loved the spot-on description of this lettuce provided by the staff at Territorial Seed: “Imagine dipping a paintbrush in red paint and giving it a hard shake onto your romaine lettuce.” This is a gorgeous headed lettuce, but the succulent, slightly sweet leaves are not as bitter or tough as those of traditional romaine. The heads are slightly looser, too, which allows you to pick the outside leaves for smaller salads before the head fully develops (in 55 days). This variety also resists downy mildew, lettuce-drop disease, and mosaic virus.
Expect a plethora of petite peppers with ‘Cupid’
Photo: Carol Collins
If you have trouble with peppers (and I do), ‘Cupid’ might be a good choice next season. Although the plants are rather large, they produce scores of miniature bell peppers early in the season (they mature to green in 55 days and to red in 75). It’s a disease- and sun-scald-resistant variety that keeps producing right into fall. I was shocked to see Fine Gardening assistant editor Carol Collins’s plants still filled with fruit at the end of September last year. The small heart-shaped peppers are the perfect snack to pair with a bowl of cherry tomatoes.
‘Damsel’ is a disease-resistant gem
There’s a reason that ‘Jetstar’ is a mainstay in veggie gardens around the country: It’s a reliable producer on plants that are fairly resistant to fungal diseases. The fruit, however, is pretty seedy and on the tart side. Enter ‘Damsel’, a variety that has shown great resistance to late and early blights, as well as other types of fungal diseases. During the Northeast’s exceptionally wet and humid summer of 2018, one ‘Damsel’ plant produced nearly 19 pounds of fruit in my garden. The flavor of the meaty, pinkish tomatoes is similar to that of a sweet ‘Brandywine’, but the skin doesn’t crack as readily. And unlike the late-to-mature ‘Brandywine’, these tomatoes are ripe for the picking in 70 days.
If you’re looking for truly unique, try ‘Thai Yellow Egg’ eggplant
This little baby is not for the faint of heart, but it might be my favorite newcomer to the veggie garden. If you’re looking for an eggplant to make into parmesan, this isn’t your best bet, though. The small round fruits are harvested when they’re around the size of an egg and colored bright yellow (if they’re orange, they’re overripe). They don’t have a lot of flesh, but when halved or quartered and thrown into stir-frys or curries, they add a tangy flavor. As with other small eggplant varieties, the flesh doesn’t break down into a squishy mess when cooked; instead, it keeps a somewhat crunchy texture. My plants stayed fairly pest-free (a few flea beetles did eventually cause cosmetic damage), and I was able to harvest handfuls of fruit in about 75 days from transplant.
Things to look for with new veggies
Not everything that’s new is good. Take blue tomatoes, for instance—I have yet to find a tasty variety within the ranks of that new tomato trend. Also, sometimes new just means more of the same, with the only new part being the name of the variety. Here are some traits to look for when experimenting with new seed varieties.
Big production in a small package
Disease resistance
Better flavor
Even better looks
‘Baby Bubba’ okra will fit into any size garden
Even if you’re not from the South, okra should be on your to-grow list. If you harvest the fruit when it’s small (no bigger than 2 to 3 inches long), it isn’t slimy or bitter at all—a common complaint. And the plants are beautiful, with large umbrella-like leaves and flowers resembling a tropical hibiscus. However, I always had an issue growing traditional okra because it’s a space hog, with the plants reaching 5 to 6 feet tall (and nearly as wide). ‘Baby Bubba’ okra is only 3 feet tall and not as wide, yet it produces as many full-size fruits as a plant twice its size. You can expect to harvest 50 to 55 days from transplant; just watch for the beautiful yellow flowers. Picking time won’t be too far away.
It doesn’t get much earlier than ‘Valentine’ tomato
Last year I found a potential replacement for my much-loved and aforementioned ‘Tomatoberry’. The new cherry tomato that captured my heart is ‘Valentine’, a variety that’s indeterminate, resistant to early blight, and one of the heaviest producing tomatoes I’ve ever grown. In fact, when several of my sauce tomatoes failed to produce the quantities I needed for canning, I turned to ‘Valentine’ and used them to fill in—skins and all. The sweet, grapelike fruits are extremely meaty and are produced in clusters. Also, it’s harvest time less than two months after germination!
Danielle Sherry is senior editor.
Photos: Danielle Sherry
Sources:
Baker Creek Heirloom Seed Co., Mansfield, Mo.; 417-924-8917; rareseeds.com
How do you design a garden that looks good both day and night? During the day, we can rely on color and texture to do the work of creating interest. To do the same in the evening hours, however, requires consideration and thoughtful plant selection and placement to make the most of soft even light. Ideally, our gardens would stand out in whatever light conditions exist so that we can enjoy them as much as would like. In Garden Design that Looks Great After Hours, C.L. Fornari says,
“After dark, those same reds and slender leaves will recede into the shadows. Pale yellows and pinks can remain visible into the evening, but blues and purples will disappear quickly as evening fades into night. Green foliage fades to gray and then black. White remains the most perceptible color from evening into night, so strategically place variegated plants and those with white flowers where they’ll be visible as the sun goes down.”
While these plants don’t actually glow, the addition of the below species to your garden can help capture light and add beauty and interest to your landscape during the evening hours.
While a light hand is apropos for many pruning jobs, sometimes a judicious but heavy hand is needed. Rejuvenation pruning is a heavy-handed but efficient method to bring overlooked, overgrown, and mismanaged shrubs back to their full potential. It is performed by removing every branch at or a few inches above ground level with a sturdy hand saw, loppers, or even a small chainsaw. For many shrubs in Mid-Atlantic gardens, winter is the perfect time to perform rejuvenation pruning. This is because in our zonal range, most woody plants are dormant and therefore exposed cuts are less likely to become pathways for pests and diseases (which are also dormant). And, when spring weather finally arrives, the shrubs will be perfectly poised to push new, healthy growth.
This ‘Gibraltar’ bush clover (Lespedeza thunbergii ‘Gibraltar’, Zones 4-8) will quickly rebound when the weather warms in spring.
After being cut to the ground in mid-winter.
Dormant buds at the bases of stems will develop into strong new stems the following season.
Rejuvenation pruning tames vigorous growers that have gotten out of hand
A vigorous, healthy shrub that has become overgrown, has lost its distinctive shape or form, or has an excessive number of dead stems from overcrowding will be the best candidate for rejuvenation pruning. This technique can also be a good fix for shrubs that do not flower or fruit to their full potential because individual stems are too weak or immature to produce viable flower buds.
Bush honeysuckles respond well to a heavy cutback.
Multistem shrubs that generate new growth from their root systems or from the bases of stems are the best candidates for rejuvenation pruning.
Here are just a few of the shrubs that will tolerate rejuvenation pruning:
Bush clovers (Lespedeza spp. and cvs., Zones: 4–8)
Please note: If a shrub is in poor general health, is showing signs of stress from pests or disease, or if more than half its shoots are dead, it may be too weak to recover from a complete cutback and could be killed rather than rejuvenated by this technique.
Dogwoods and willows grown for their vibrant stem colors will benefit from rejuvenation pruning every 3 to 5 years.
Removing drab older growth to make way for a bright new crop of stems.
Proper timing is important
When a shrub is cut to the ground, it must rely on reserves stored its roots to stimulate dormant or latent buds for regrowth. Therefore, rejuvenation pruning is best performed when the plant is fully dormant and most of its nutrient reserves from the past growing season are stored in its root system. In the Mid-Atlantic region, January to early March is the ideal time for a heavy cutback. Red-twig and yellow-twig dogwoods, which are excellent for holiday decorating, may be pruned a bit earlier in winter. Dogwoods and willows grown for their vibrant stem colors will benefit from rejuvenation pruning every 3 to 5 years to replace drab older growth with a bright new crop of stems.
Tip: Bring cut stems of flowering quince or forsythia indoors and place them in warm water to trick the dormant flower buds on old growth into producing a few out-of-season blooms.
After a shrub has been cut back, you can easily add organic mulch and an organic fertilizer to encourage new growth in spring.
Post-pruning care will help the shrub recover
Aggressive pruning does cause stress to the plant. After cutting a shrub back, you can aid the process of regrowth by mulching around the base of the plant with well-composted organic matter. Providing adequate moisture and an appropriate fertilizer will also maximize regrowth. Choose fertilizers approved for organic use or bio stimulants that support overall soil health and aid in the process of nutrient cycling.
Mustering the courage to try this technique may take a little faith, but if rejuvenation pruning is done in a thoughtful manner you will be rewarded with a more vibrant and attractive specimen in a few short growing seasons.
Most gardeners would agree that the best pastime for cold winter days is looking through seed and plant catalogs imagining the growing season to come. With that in mind, consider these four strong summer blooming perennials for the midwest when you are ordering plants in the coming weeks.
Conditions: Full sun; average to dry, well-drained soil
The habit of this free-flowering, summer-blooming clematis reminds me of a coreopsis (Coreopsis spp. and cvs., Zones 4-9): rounded in shape, as tall as it is wide, but with white blooms instead of yellow. Like many drought-tolerant species of clematis, this one doesn’t vine. Its architecture is loose and herbaceous, though certainly not floppy. You don’t have to worry about special pruning techniques either. Chop it down each spring to just above the soil line to enjoy its flowers and fuzzy seed heads again. It is durable and easy, a well-appointed thriller for any hellstrip or sidewalk border.
‘Gilded Lace’ Coreopsis
Name:Coreopsis ‘Gilded Lace’
Zones: 5-9
Size: 4 to 5 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun; moist to average, well-drained soil
This newer selection from Mt. Cuba Center earned its stripes for bountiful floral displays and standout resistance to powdery mildew, which so regularly afflicts even the classic varieties. At a little more than 4 feet tall, ‘Gilded Lace’ has feathery foliage that offers a textural counterpoint throughout the growing season—a soft veil or backdrop to herbaceous associates. In late summer, it erupts in simple yellow flowers with chocolate centers, a display that can go on for weeks. Its perennial vigor isn’t unruly—even in good soils the plant slowly bulks up to be nearly as wide as it is tall.
KISMET® Red Coneflower
Name:Echinacea ‘TNECHKRD’
Zones: 4-10
Size: 18 inches tall and 24 inches wide
Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
With so many coneflowers on the market, gardeners have a right to be dubious. KISMET® Red, along with the other colors in the series, attempts to set a new standard for vigor, floriferousness, and habit. Top-rated in university trials, these varieties offer saturated flowers early in the season to join perennial companions like phloxes (Phlox spp. and cvs., Zones 4-8) and salvias (Salvia spp. and cvs., Zones 5-11) in inaugurating summer. While early to rise, KISMET® Red blooms all season long, powered by a robust crown that guarantees a perennial return the following season, unlike so many other coneflowers. Given its relatively compact size, this variety would also work well in containers.
Prairie Blazing Star
Name: Liatris pycnostachya
Zones: 3-9
Size: Up to 5 feet tall and 2 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun; moist to dry soil
As a prairieland native, I treasure these purple bottle rockets as they appear on the garden scene every July. Many blazing star selections exist for color and size, but if you have the room, you should grow the straight species. The floral display lasts for several weeks, an intriguing progression from violet-tinted buds to lavender-frayed florets. While individual plants can be short-lived, colonies persist for many years in the garden. You can divide the bulbs early in spring and plant in almost anything from sand to clay, so long as the soil doesn’t stay too water-logged in winter.
Kelly D. Norris is the director of horticulture and education at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden in Des Moines, Iowa.
Some people are particular about the garden tools they use. Others take it less seriously and are content with the cheapest things they can find. I’m somewhere in the middle. I’m not one to waste money on overpriced brands, but I do want durable tools that last a good while. Just as important, they need to do the job and be up for the conditions under which I’ll be using them.
It’s common knowledge that gardening in the desert Southwest is different, but it’s not just the climate. The soil and garden styles are different as well. Hard, rocky soil is not uncommon, and pockets of caliche can be found almost anywhere if you dig deep enough. Some areas are sandy or full of gravel with little organic matter. Garden mulch materials are usually inorganic fine gravel, breeze, or crushed rock. Many of our trees are legumes producing an annual crop of “beans” that litter the ground. An abundance of pointy plants requires special handling as well. All these challenges mean a “regular” version of a popular garden tool might not be the best choice for us.
Most common tools need little introduction. I always have a sharp pair of hand pruners at the ready, and always the bypass type, not the anvil type that can crush stems before it cuts. A good pair of nitrile gloves is standard for me. But other tool choices may not be as obvious. Here are some of my top tools that are well-adapted and especially useful as I work to enhance my little piece of the desert:
Hori hori
This is the rugged hand digging tool that works best in my rock-laden soil. It pries small rocks out of the way, is narrow enough to dig deep quickly, and does not bend like cheaper aluminum trowels.
Sharpshooter shovel
A narrow blade will often find its way between obstacles more easily than a wider standard spade, so this shovel is ideal for rocky conditions. It digs deep planting holes for deep-rooted plants and is easier to position as you dig. This shovel can also pry rocks loose along the way.
Knee pads
Kneeling on rocks and gravel hurts, not to mention the occasional thorn or spine! I prefer the thicker type of knee pads with a single wide strap for the best comfort. I avoid the ones with thin foam, and those with a rigid plastic surface that is more likely to compact the soil.
Adjustable metal rake
This is indispensable no matter what climate I garden in. Flexible tines are easier on garden plants than harder plastic rakes. With the proper adjustment, a flexible rake can be used to groom grasses, remove light debris, or rake coarse gravel back to where it belongs.
Cultivator
Hard soil surfaces cause our valuable rains to run off quickly, reducing any benefit to our gardens. Periodically cultivating the soil surface encourages water to soak in, and a loose surface actually helps retain deeper moisture. It’s also a great technique when sowing wildflower seeds. Good cultivators can usually be found as 3- or 4-pronged versions.
Hand rake
A small hand rake is great for cleaning up around extra-pointy plants or tight spaces. This tool is an efficient way to keep leaves and mesquite beans from accumulating around the base of plants.
Large tweezers or ice tongs
This is also a great tool for detailed garden cleaning. They’re truly a must-have when transplanting cactus or dealing with other spiny plants.
Pickaxe
In my garden on the side of a small volcanic mountain, nearly every hole I dig involves the extraction of at least one rock, from tennis ball to football size. Sometimes the quickest method is a swing or two of the pickaxe, which easily pries the rocks aside and avoids the blunt impact of a dull shovel against stone.
Metal garden hose
Dragging a hose through a desert garden has its hazards. I use hose guides where I need them, but an occasional encounter with cactus glochids or agave spines is inevitable. Metal-clad garden hoses have stood up well against these perils, and (as advertised) they don’t kink or wear through during routine use. There are many versions of these out there, but the cheapest ones have not held up. Look for the style with couplings that can be repaired if needed.
I hope adding some of these to your garden toolkit will make your Southwest gardening experience more productive and more enjoyable.
For more expert recommended gardening tools gohere.
Dan Johnson lives and gardens in Denver and in Tucson, Arizona. He is an associate director of horticulture for the Denver Botanic Gardens.
Without a doubt one of the best parts about gardening in the Southeast is winters that are temperate yet still bring seasonality to the garden. I’m grateful that we don’t often get bone-chilling cold that lasts for days and weeks on end. Many gardeners in colder climates spend their winters waiting for spring. As gardeners in the Southeast, we can plan for vibrant gardens with winter interest in mind. For our purposes, we will define “winter” as December through February. For this article I will take you on a journey through the plants that are looking good in my winter garden in eastern Tennessee during these few months. I’ve made a note of the date I took the photo of each plant to give you a feeling of how the season progresses throughout my garden in the Southeast.
See more articles on this topic:
Yuccas like this Margaritaville™ curve-leaf yucca (Yucca gloriosa var. tristis ‘Hinvargas’, Zones 7-11) maintain their structure even when covered in snow.
Curve-leaf yucca
Name: Yucca gloriosa var. tristis syn. Yucca recurvifolia syn. Yucca gloriosa var. recurvifolia
Zones: 7-11
Size: 4 to 6 feet tall and wide
Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
Photo Taken: December 25
Yuccas of all kinds bring structure to the winter garden. To me, curve-leaf yucca is one of the most graceful. It loves to be planted in full sun with good drainage. However, I don’t find it overly fussy. This plant can be long-lived and hard to remove, so make sure you place it exactly where you want it.
Even in January, Delavay’s schefflera brings a tropical vibe to the garden.
Delavay’s schefflera
Name: Scheffleradelavayi
Zones: 7-11
Size: 10 to 15 feet tall and 5 to 8 feet wide
Conditions: Partial shade; well-drained soil
Photo Taken: January 10
I get more excited about this plant every year. Delavay’s schefflera has large, broad, attractive leaves that are evergreen. In winter, seeds mature and cascade over the foliage. It seems to like being planted in afternoon shade.
Turn to hellebores like ‘HGC Josef Lemper’ for beautiful blooms in the middle of winter.
Hellebores are an exciting group of plants for North American gardeners. They can be grown almost anywhere. What makes this species, Hellborus niger, and particularly this cultivar, ‘HGC Josef Lemper’ so special is how early and how long it blooms. Blooming as early as December, it puts on a show that lasts for several weeks. Flowers fade from clear white to chartreuse green.
This cyclamen species has mottled leaves and pretty purple blooms.
Eastern sowbread
Name: Cyclamen coum
Zones: 5-8
Size: 3 to 6 inches tall and wide
Conditions: Partial shade; well-drained soil
Photo Taken: January 31
Gardeners in the Southeast can go down a long road of obsession for cyclamen, but not every species is well-suited for this region. My cyclamen-loving friends tell me ivy-leaved cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium, Zones 4-8) is the easiest to grow, but that one is a fall bloomer. If you want a winter gem, Eastern sowbread is at the top of my list. Plant tubers under deciduous trees. This plant is attractive in foliage and flower.
‘Pauline’ reticulated iris (Iris reticulata ‘Pauline’, Zones 5-9) has flowers that can range from blue to purple.
Reticulated iris
Name: Iris reticulata
Zones: 5-9
Size: 3 to 4 inches tall and wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
Photo Taken: February 9
Surprise! That’s how reticulated iris greets gardeners on a winter ramble. Plant it en masse on the edge of beds and enjoy its early blooms. This plant is perhaps not as long-lived as other fall-planted bulbs, so plant a few more every year. It pairs well with snowdrops (Galanthus spp. and cvs., Zones 3-9) for an early-season show.
Blue-colored conifers stand out in stark contrast against other trees in the off season.
Blue atlas cedar
Name: Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’
Zones: 6-9
Size: 40 to 60 feet tall and 30 to 40 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
Photo Taken: February 14
Conifers in general are the kings and queens of the winter garden. Conifers with blue foliage seem to impress even more in colder months. Blue atlas cedar is one of my favorites for its standout texture and color. In the Southeast, make sure you don’t plant this or other conifers too deeply to ensure good drainage. For my picks on other stand-out cedars for the Southeast, click here.
‘Jelena’ witch hazel offers hot-colored blooms in shades of yellow, red, and orange.
‘Jelena’ witch hazel
Name: Hamamelis x intermedia ‘Jelena’
Zones: 5-8
Size: 15 to 20 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide
Conditions: Full sun; well-drained soil
Photo Taken: February 15
‘Jelena’ witch hazel is a top shrub for those looking to add more winter interest to their gardens. It performs well in the understory or in more sun with adequate moisture. This cultivar does a good job of shedding its leaves in the fall so flowers are even more noticeable during their winter bloom.
Japanese cornel dogwood’s abundant little yellow flowers make this tree look like forsythia (Forsythia spp. and cvs., Zones 3-9) when in full bloom.
Japanese cornel dogwood
Name: Cornusofficinalis
Zones: 5-8
Size: 15 to 25 feet tall and wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; medium moisture, well-drained soil
Photo Taken: February 17
If you love dogwoods, you need to add this little-known beauty to your list. Exfoliating bark shines in the winter sun and its extraordinarily early blooms are delightful. These flowers will yield to bright red berries late in the season. This plant is virtually disease and pest free.
Parney cotoneaster’s bright red fruits contrast well with its dark olive-green leaves.
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; well-drained soil
Photo Taken: February 17
If there is a cotoneaster that has more fruit per square inch than this one, I don’t know it! Parney cotoneaster is a loose, open shrub with beautiful foliage and arching stems during the season. In fall, long-lasting fruit develops and persists for an extended period. This Asian species has been known to escape the confines of cultivation in California, but I have not seen this same issue in the Southeast. It would make an outstanding loose hedge that will give you flowers in the spring and a fruit display in fall and winter.
This sterile variety of Japanese spirea has foliage that emerges cherry red and then transitions to yellow and orange.
Double Play®Candy Corn®Japanese spirea
Name: Spiraea japonica ‘NCSX1’
Zones: 4-8
Size: 1 to 1½ feet tall and 1½ to 2½ feet wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist, well-drained soil
Photo Taken: February 18
This is a smaller spirea that has one of its best moments in late winter. Frost tolerant new foliage emerges bright red when there is still plenty of cold in the air. Later in the season, the foliage transitions to hues of gold and orange. The pink flowers are sterile, which alleviates concerns about invasiveness and gives the plant itself even more energy to put on fabulous displays of foliage.
Try any one of these plants to add winter interest to your garden. Better yet, plant them all to keep the show rolling through December, January, and February.
For even more on winter interest in the Southeast, check out:
And for more Southeast regional reports, click here.
Andy Pulte is a faculty member in the plant sciences department at the University of Tennessee.
Those of us who have spent a few years (or more) in the American West know that winter here doesn’t look like winter in much of the country. As far as I’m concerned, this is a good thing; I don’t enjoy days of gray skies and persistent snow cover. Our woody landscape plants, however, would say otherwise.
Particularly true for lower elevation and intermountain portions of the West, regular sunny days, wind, and a lack of snow cover combine with significant daytime warming – even when nights are cold – wreaking havoc on many woody plants, especially those that are not yet established. Cold and drought damage plant cells through similar mechanisms, so dry, frigid weather delivers a double whammy to these plants. Learn more: Protecting Trees Through Unpredictable Winters in the Mountain West
Does your garden need water in winter?
This practice is not particularly beneficial in gardens that hold snow cover over winter, since plants in such gardens already receive water when temperatures rise. In “winter brown” gardens, however, watering allows us to manage one of those plant-damaging variables: desiccation (the process of extreme drying). At its most basic, this is the concept behind winter watering.
A solid cast-iron sprinkler used with a garden hose is a simple set up that’s easy to move around as needed. Photo: Bryan Fischer
How does winter watering help plants?
As much as it hydrates the plant, winter watering serves to replace air in the soil profile with water. Water has one of the highest specific heat capacities of any liquid, meaning it can hold an enormous amount of heat energy compared to many natural substances. Slowly radiating this heat into the soil, water insulates roots and reduces temperature swings while hydrating the roots it envelops. This has benefits beyond the roots, too, as there is some research to indicate that regular winter watering also reduces the likelihood of sunscald (also known as southwest injury) on tree trunks.
Basics of winter watering
Typically, I begin winter watering in November and will continue until April during periods of dry weather and warm temperatures (think no snow cover and days breaking 40°F).
Any day temperatures rise above 50°F is a good candidate for winter watering.
Water during the warmest part of the day and quit a couple of hours before dusk so water can make its way into the soil and off stems before freezing.
Up to once monthly suffices for most plants during such periods.
I water with a solid cast-iron sprinkler at the end of a garden hose (see above).
Move the sprinkler every 20-30 or so minutes.
If soils are especially dry, I will often go over an area twice, allowing some time between each watering for water to soak deeply into the soil.
Winter watering is particularly valuable for plants that are not yet established.
♦ How do I know if a plant is established? One can quickly estimate whether a larger shrub or tree is established using the following formula regarding trunk diameter: for every inch diameter of a tree trunk, the plant will need one year in the ground to establish. So, a tree with a two-inch diameter trunk (measured at chest height) would require two years minimum to reach establishment after transplant. In our rather harsh climate, assuming plants require an extra year to establish certainly doesn’t hurt.
Water widely and deeply for best results
The goal is not to deliver water to the tree as much as it is to hydrate the soil where roots may be, so wetting part of the root zone very well is less effective than wetting the majority of the root zone reasonably well. And, since the root system of a tree can extend up to three times its drip line (distance from the trunk to outside edge of foliage), ensure you water not only under the tree but around its perimeter, too. The caveat here is that recent transplants, with their highly organic potting mixes and smaller root balls, can benefit from just setting the hose out in their transplant well at a trickle.
Make it part of your routine
The type of task that can be easily added to a day of work around the house, winter watering hardly feels like a strain when built into your regular routine as a monthly chore. Your landscape will certainly thank you and, hopefully, you’ll be able to enjoy those sunny western days without the nagging concern that you’ve left your landscape high and dry. Just be sure to unhook the hose afterward!
More information for Mountain West Winters:
And for more Mountain West regional reports, click here.
Bryan Fischer lives and gardens at the intersection of the Great Plains and the Rockies. He is a horticulturist and the curator of plant collections for a local botanic garden.
Succulents thrive in arid, often harsh climates, with abundant bright sunshine year-round and little to no regular water. They have adapted to such conditions by developing thick, fleshy leaves and stems to store whatever moisture eventually comes their way. They are survivors, accustomed to living and even flourishing with minimal care.
Gardening with succulents allows you to experiment with an exciting array of textures, colors, sizes, and forms. In warmer, drier, snow-free parts of the world, a wide range of succulents work beautifully in the sunny landscape, but there’s no need to despair if you’re a cold climate gardener or just hope to liven up your indoor jungle by adding a succulent or three. Given the right growing conditions, there are many charming succulent choices available to you.
Succulents grown outdoors perform best when planted in full sun, in light, well-aerated soil with excellent drainage, and with minimal but regular irrigation during dryer periods. Indoors, it’s pretty much the same. Suitable warmth, bright light, good drainage, and minimal moisture are the keys to success for almost any succulent you might wish to try as a houseplant.
The following succulents will do well in a bright sunny location inside and can be transitioned in late spring or summer to the outdoors in much of the Pacific Northwest.
With its extreme trailing habit, ‘Fish Hooks’ senecio makes an excellent hanging basket plant.
‘Fish Hooks’ senecio
(Curio radicans ‘Fish Hooks’, Zones 10-11)
This is a wonderful trailing succulent from Africa with small green, banana-shaped leaves (which some say look like fish hooks) spaced along the long, slender, trailing fleshy stems. This succulent will love the brightest location in your house and needs ample room to trail since it can grow up to 8 feet long with time. ‘Fish Hooks’ senecio makes a truly unique hanging plant.
The tricolor foliage of this intergeneric hybrid is second to none.
‘Sorrento’ sedeveria
(Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’, Zone 9-11)
I love how this plant has tolerated its tiny container for over two years, remaining compact and happy as can be in my sunny south-facing window. This charming Sedum x Echeveria intergeneric hybrid combines the best features of both genera, resulting in a cluster of dense, colorful rosettes carried on short stocky stems. The color can vary, ranging from bronze or coral to maroon and even purple. It will reach 9 to 12 inches tall and wide if transplanted into a larger container.
Possibly the most popular succulent in the world, Christmas cacti are easy to grow and sport beautiful blooms in winter.
Christmas cactus
(Schlumbergera bridgesii, Zones 10-11)
A Christmas cactusis not actually a cactus, but a succulent native to the shady, humid coastal mountains of Brazil, and is probably the most popular indoor-grown succulent. Cascading flat, green, segmented leaves carry big, traffic-stopping blooms on the ends of their stems right around Christmas as the name suggests. Available in a whole range of colors, Christmas cacti can arch out to 3 feet wide in bright indirect light (they’ll burn in full sun) with regular water.Be sure to let them dry out completely before watering again.
‘Splash’ wax plant
(Hoya pubicalyx ‘Splash’, Zones 10-11).
My all-time favorite indoor succulent is the Philippine native ‘Splash’ wax plant. Rugged yet elegant, it sports slender dark stems with fleshy silver-splashed, glossy deep green leaves. Its climbing (or trailing) habit is downright astonishing. So far, mine has climbed 10 feet straight up the wall despite being planted in only a 6-inch diameter container. I’m looking forward to the day it will produce dish-like, light pink flowers. Give wax plant bright indirect light, well-drained soil, and water it every three to four weeks to keep it happy.
A few more tips to keep your succulents happy
Although these are generally considered easy-to-grow plants, consider these quirks before you go out and purchase a succulent for inside.
1. If you’re tempted to pop a succulent into a room without good airflow (my laundry room for example), it will languish. Good airflow is a must to keep fungal disease at bay.
If you have a darker home without lots of natural light then a snake plant (left) or ZZ plant (right) would be the best succulents to try.
2. Blessed with only north-facing windows and shade? Snake plant (Sansevieria spp. and cvs.,Zones 10-11),and ZZ plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia and cvs.,Zones 10-11) are two types of succulents that don’t object to darker conditions.
3. Avoid overwatering. We’re so accustomed to “regular” houseplants and their robust moisture requirements, that it is hard to come to terms with just how drought-tolerant a succulent really is. An overwatered succulent will quickly rot, so err on the dry side and water sparingly. When moving succulents outside for the spring and summer, be sure they aren’t in a location that gets overwatered by irrigation or a downspout.
Although they are tough, succulents indoors and outdoors need fertilizing at least 3 times per year. Use an all-purpose formula that is diluted by half.
4. Your succulents (like all houseplants) will appreciate fertilizing on occasion. Feed your indoor succulents at well-spaced intervals three times a year using a well-balanced fertilizer, diluted to half its recommended rate.
For more on succulents for colder climates, go here.
—Fionuala Campion is the owner and manager of Cottage Gardens of Petaluma in Petaluma, California.
Winter heath (Ericacarnea, Zones 5-8) is surprisingly absent from our Northeastern gardens. Species in the heath genus (Erica) are often confused or lumped in with heather (Callunavulgaris, Zones 4-7). While heather cultivars can still be found at many garden centers and online nurseries, you may wish to avoid planting them. This species has been reported as invasive in the Northeast and parts of the Midwest. While it may not appear to spread around one’s garden, in wild areas, especially alpine, high-elevation, and coastal areas, heather has been documented as impacting the displacement of some native plants. Learn more about heaths and heathers.
Heather (left) and winter heath (right). Heather blooms in summer and fall. Photo: Michelle Gervais
Winter heath blooms in winter and early spring. Photo: Ann. E. Stratton
Why to Grow Winter Heaths
Winter heath boasts evergreen foliage and winter flowers
Luckily, winter heath, which is perhaps even more beautiful than heather, provides dense, evergreen foliage. It has colorful winter blooms in shades of white, pink, and purple in what can otherwise be a dull gardening season for gardeners with cold winters. Since this species is hardy through USDA Zone 5, winter heaths are well-suited to most Northeastern gardens, providing year-round interest. This plant is a true winter-bloomer and can flower any time from December through April depending on variety.
Foliage provides its own winter interest
Always read the descriptions of each winter heath variety carefully to discover the foliage color, which can often change through the four seasons. Golden needles may turn bright chartreuse in spring and winter or be blushed with pink or red, while dark green needles might turn nearly violet once winter arrives. Many consider the flower color on winter heaths to be simply a nice bonus, as the real show comes from the many tints and textures presented by the foliage.
Because these leaves are so lovely, many gardeners plant winter heath in large drifts, often mixing varieties to create a patchwork carpet of color. In a few years, once plants grow and merge, the overall effect provides four-season beauty with little care beyond some annual trimming after bloom if you find the drying flowers unattractive. Learn more on how to care for winter heaths.
How to Grow Winter Heath
Easy to grow in most gardens, the secret to success with winter heath is pretty simple.
Consider planting in larger drifts containing 6 to 12 plants spaced 12 to 18 inches apart so plants grow and merge together.
Acidic, peat-rich soil conditions are a must (these are easy conditions to find in most Northeastern gardens).
While this plant can survive a hot, dry summer, be sure to locate it in some afternoon shade for best results and be sure to provide adequate moisture in its early years.
Established plants are very drought tolerant. Just be sure to water when dry only for the plant’s first year.
Protection from harsh winter winds is essential as deep, protective snowfalls seem more and more unreliable given the changing climate.
The safest bet would be to plant your winter heath with an eastern exposure against a wind barrier, such as taller evergreens.
Favorite Winter Heath Varieties
With over a hundred cultivars, there is no shortage of varieties to choose from. Some stellar selections include:
The bright white flowers of ‘Golden Starlet’ winter heath contrast with its green and yellow foliage.
‘Golden Starlet’ winter heath
Erica carnea ‘Golden Starlet,’ Zones 5-8
The bright golden foliage that this variety sports in spring and summer turns to green with chartreuse tips in winter. Brilliant white winter flowers last nearly through spring.
For bright pink-purple blooms, turn to ‘Kramer’s Red.’
‘Kramer’s Red’ Darley heath
Erica x darleyensis ‘Kramer’s Red,’ Zones 5-8
This hybrid cultivar offers brilliant pinkish-purple flowers in winter that first appear as chartreuse flower buds in autumn. Its dark green foliage gets stunning bronze tints in cold weather, becoming nearly maroon and enhancing the winter show.
‘Schneekuppe’ winter heath has long-blooming white flowers…
…and foliage that takes on a light green hue in late winter.
‘Schneekuppe’ winter heath
Erica carnea ‘Schneekuppe,’ Zones 5-8
A German introduction, this winter heath has rich green foliage year round, which gets chartreuse tips in later winter and spring. The white flowers sparkle during the winter months, making the plant look as if it is frosted with bits of snow.
With colorful evergreen foliage that wows all year long and charming little flowers that bloom even in the dead of winter, winter heath is worth adding to your garden.
For more on winter interest in the Northeast, check out:
And for more Northeast regional reports, click here.
Matt Mattus is the author of two books: Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening and Mastering the Art of Vegetable Gardening. He gardens in Worcester, Massachusetts.
In a world fraught with antagonism and opposition, something as wholesome as the friendship plant can be a breath of fresh air.
A cute and compact clump of foliage, Pilea involucrata is a must-have for any houseplant connoisseur. And with very minimal care requirements, it’s easy to grow and even easier to love.
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As a pretty perennial that’s simple to propagate and share, the friendship plant is a wonderful gift for giving to your pals, both new and old.
I mean, if somebody just walked up and handed me one of these little beauties, we’d definitely at least become acquaintances, if not full-fledged friends.
But before you go and grow your friendships, you’ll need to grow them first. This guide will teach you exactly how.
Here’s what I’ll cover:
What Are Friendship Plants?
Hardy in USDA Zones 11 to 12, friendship plants – aka Pilea involucrata – are tropical herbaceous perennials from the Urticaceae, or nettle family.
Friendship plants are native to southern Central America, northwestern South America, and select islands of the Caribbean.
In the wild, they tend to grow on the forest floor, where they receive dappled light that trickles through tropical tree canopies.
Individually, friendship plants aren’t very big, as they only reach heights of six to 12 inches and spreads of three to 12 inches at maturity.
However they spread via basal offsets, which can take over an open area or occupy the niches in an already crowded one.
Ovate, velvety, deeply veined, and about one to three inches long, the oppositely arranged leaves burst with shades of vibrant colors.
In general, they have light green edges and darker green centers, with dark reddish purple undertones throughout.
Depending on genetics and growing conditions, exact shades and hue intensities can differ between and even within specimens – how cool is that?
In spring, clusters of tiny green to pink flowers bloom from terminal buds. Although they’re not as visually significant as the leaves, they’re still an aesthetic treat!
Friendship Plant Propagation
Propagation can be a tricky part of plant parenthood – but not with friendship plants! Let’s go over some propagation techniques.
From Stem Cuttings
Friendship plants can be easily propagated via stem cuttings.
In spring, using a sharp and sterile blade, take three-inch cuttings from healthy-looking shoots, each with multiple nodes and sets of leaves.
Defoliate the bottom half of each cutting, and feel free to apply a rooting hormone to the cut ends if you have some on hand.
If you need a rooting hormone recommendation, try Bonide’s IBA rooting powder from Arbico Organics.
Prepare a three-inch container for each cutting – and fill with a 50:50 mix of perlite and peat moss or coconut coir.
Stick the leafless sections of each cutting into the growing media, then gently moisten the soil.
Position the cuttings somewhere they will receive bright, indirect light, such as near a window. Wrap clear plastic baggies around the containers to increase the humidity around the cuttings.
They also require temperatures of 65 to 85°F for optimal rooting, so feel free to use a heat pad if the location you place your cuttings won’t remain consistently warm enough.
For a heating mat that adds 10 to 20°F to the growing media, try this one from Gardener’s Supply.
Keep the media moist as the cuttings root. In three to five weeks, you should have rooted cuttings – check by giving them a gentle tug. If there’s resistance, they have roots!
At this point, remove the plastic covers along with the bottom heat mat, if applicable. From here, you can transplant them into new, stylish containers as discussed below.
Via Division
As a prolific creeper, P. involucrata puts out many offsets for you to divide. Identify an offset and give it a gentle tug to ensure it has a sufficiently strong root system.
Give it a deep watering 24 hours before you plan to divide it. Come division time, remove your specimen from its container and gently brush away the soil from around the roots.
Then, using a blade or your fingers, sever the offset from the mother plant.
Transplant your offset into a new container, return the mother plant to its original pot, and you’re golden.
Transplanting
If you have purchased a nursery start you may not need to repot it straight away, if the container is of an adequate size.
But if you have a bare root transplant, a rooted cutting, or otherwise want to move your friendship plant into a spiffy new container, then read on.
Select a container that’s about an inch wider than the root system of your transplant, and fill it with a potting soil formulated for houseplants, or a half-and-half mix of perlite and peat moss or coconut coir.
Make a hole in the media large enough for the transplant’s root system then remove the plant from its existing container.
Place the transplant into the hole you made, backfill the gaps, and then moisten the media. Congrats, you’re done!
How to Grow Friendship Plants
To show a friendship plant some friendship of its own, proper cultivation is essential.
Climate and Exposure Needs
P. involucrata must be in USDA Hardiness Zones 11 to 12 to survive outdoors. But indoors, a temperature range of 55 to 85°F is acceptable.
Bright, indirect light and humidity levels of over 50 percent are essential.
If your home is very dry and you need to boost the humidity, place your specimens near a humidifier or on a humidity tray filled with pebbles that are partially submerged in water.
Soil Needs
P. involucrata requires a moisture-retentive, well-draining potting medium with a pH of between 5.0 and 6.0.
Need an appropriate growing medium? Try this houseplant potting mix from Miracle-Gro, available in four-quart bags via Amazon.
Water and Fertilizer Needs
Moderate moisture is the name of the friendship-plant-watering game. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out between waterings.
During the dormancy period in fall and winter, the watering frequency will naturally go down.
Monthly applications of a balanced fertilizer, diluted to half-strength, during the growing season is ideal. There is no need for you to fertilize during dormancy, though.
Growing Tips
Be sure to provide humid conditions.
The ideal growing media is moisture-retaining, yet well-draining.
Water whenever the top inch soil dries out.
Pruning and Maintenance
Whenever you notice damaged, dead, or diseased leaves and stems, you should prune them promptly.
Keeping the growing tips pinched back should encourage your specimens to grow nice and bushy.
Additionally, you should divide your friendship plants or repot them into the next size of container whenever they start to outgrow their old ones, preferably in spring or summer.
To prevent transplant shock, water them 24 hours beforehand.
Where to Buy
In the houseplant world, P. involucrata isn’t as readily available as, say, a snake plant or spider plant. But if you look in the right spots, it can easily be yours.
I’d first check nurseries or stores that carry tropical houseplants, whether they’re local or online. Kudos if you want to make a road trip to a faraway vendor that you know has a friendship plant in stock.
For sharable specimens of P. involucrata, reaching out to fellow green thumbs can be helpful.
Ask your friends for spare offsets or cuttings that they could float your way. And of course, you could try local plant swaps or horticultural shows!
Managing Pests and Disease
Health issues can quickly bring a houseplant to its metaphorical knees. Here are some problems that could plague your P. involucrata.
Pests
Insects sense poor health in a plant like dogs smell fear or salesmen perceive buying indecision.
Therefore, caring for your specimens properly and keeping them in tiptop health from day one can prevent a lot of problems.
Mealybugs
Covered in a trademark white and mealy wax, mealybugs are soft, segmented critters that tend to congregate in colonies on leaf and stem surfaces.
Using their piercing-sucking mouthparts, mealybugs extract vital fluids from phloems, which leads to reduced vigor and leaf drop. They also excrete honeydew as they feed, which can lead to the buildup of black sooty mold.
Scale
Scale are round, flattened insects that come in both armored and soft-bodied forms. Typically legless, scale appear as unaesthetic clusters of slightly raised bumps on leaves and stems.
Scale feed and excrete honeydew in a similar manner to mealybugs, which also causes similar symptoms.
Control of scale is also done via hand removal and horticultural oil applications, although scale may take more finesse and/or “oomph” to remove. A toothpick can really come in handy here.
Spider mites are small – like, “require-a-magnifying-glass-to-see” small.
Without one, they just look like little red dots among webbed-up leaves. Under magnification, though, you can make out their eight-legged, arachnid bodies just fine.
Leaving small, discolored feeding marks on leaves, spider mite infestations can also lead to foliar chlorosis, distortion, and drop.
To control them, strong sprays of water or applications of horticultural oil should do the trick.
Root rot is the unfortunate result of a root system not receiving enough oxygen thanks to oversaturated soil – a result of overwatering or poorly-draining potting mix.
As the roots effectively “suffocate” and become necrotic, the stems and foliage lose their base of support, exhibit symptoms like chlorosis, dieback, stunted growth, and eventually death.
Root rot is both prevented and managed by not overwatering the soil and growing your friendship plant in a well-draining potting mix.
Unpotting the specimen and pruning away any dead roots and a proportionate amount of shoot tissue can also help your specimen recover. But if it’s too far gone, it’s probably best to scrap it and start over.
Best Uses for Friendship Plants
Anywhere in your home where you can provide humidity and bright, indirect light is a solid spot for a friendship plant.
It’s pretty enough to stand out as a centerpiece, but humble enough to remain tucked away and out of the limelight.
Additionally, P. involucrata is a nice addition of foliage to a terrarium, if you happen to have one. If not, here’s our guide on how to make one!
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Creeping herbaceous perennial
Flower/Foliage Color:
Green, pink/ light green, dark green, dark reddish purple
Native to:
Central America, South America, West Indies
Water Needs:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
11-12
Maintenance:
Low
Bloom Time/Season:
Spring
Tolerance:
Moderate drought
Exposure:
Bright, indirect light
Soil Type:
Rich, moist
Time to Maturity:
3-5 years
Soil pH:
5.0-6.0
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
Depth of root system (transplants)
Uses:
Foliar interest, houseplant for well-lit spaces
Height:
6-12 inches
Family:
Urticaceae
Spread:
3-12 inches
Genus:
Pilea
Common Pests and Disease:
Mealybugs, scale, spider mites; root rot
Species:
Involucrata
Strike Up Those Friendships!
Now that you have some friendship plant know-how, there’s nothing stopping you from scoring some new buds, pals, chums, and the like.
With a bunch of sharable P. involucrata in hand, everyone will want to make your acquaintance.
Friend-scoring powers aside, the friendship plant is simply delightful to have in a houseplant lineup. Props to you for unlocking its secrets!
Curious about other aspects of P. involucrata care? Have any questions about what’s been already discussed? Consider the comments section below your megaphone.
“Jerel Hall, who lives in the city about 70 miles north of Houston, snapped a photo that has prompted a barrage of questions on social media and follow-up articles in national news outlets. The grainy photo, posted to Facebook on Saturday, appears to show a dark-colored feline that’s larger than a house cat and has a long tail.
“Well we have officially spotted a panther on our property!” Hall wrote on the post.
While Hall did not immediately respond to USA TODAY’s request for a comment on Wednesday, he told the Houston Chronicle that the photo was taken from around 120 to 150 yards away and that he estimates the animal to be between 80 and 100 pounds.
“Growing up, I’ve heard screams like a lady before but typically those are bobcats or lynx,” Hall told the newspaper, adding that he previously saw a black panther nine years ago, chasing a herd of feral hogs.”
As I look outside my office window, I can see a serene layer of snow has begun blanketing my garden. So, it seems like an appropriate time to celebrate the often-overlooked beauty and joys of winter gardening. While the plummeting temperatures have forced much of our gardens into a state of rest, this season actually offers a unique and magical opportunity to connect with nature in a different way.
December and January are when I truly remember to appreciate the allure of my evergreen plants. The conifers in particular add a touch of elegance to the winter landscape. From droopy white pines to the prickly blue spruce, these resilient beauties remind me that garden life continues even in the colder months. The wrens have already created a slumber nest in the evergreen wreath I made from garden gleanings and hung on my front door—I love them setting up camp there, but I can’t say the same for the postal carriers who get dive-bombed every day.
Some plants even brave the cold and blossom in winter, bringing vibrant colors to a seemingly monochromatic landscape. Although it isn’t blooming yet, my prized purple witch hazel (Hamamelis vernalis ‘Amethyst’) is completely covered in buds and I cannot wait for the first blossom to break open.
It’s time to embrace the unique charm of frost-kissed landscapes and the delicate sparkle of frost on the plants. The crisp air creates an atmosphere that is truly magical.
As we delve into the winter gardening season, let’s take a moment to reflect on the joys and warmth that the holiday season brings. May your gardens and greenhouses be filled with the spirit of togetherness, growth, and the promise of a vibrant spring ahead.
Thank you for being a part of our Fine Gardening community. Your passion for all things horticulture-related enriches our collective experience, and we look forward to sharing more gardening inspiration in the coming year.
According to this farmer in Ghana, the time to harvest cassava can be greatly reduced:
He is planting single nodes. They start producing tuber in just over a month, and he states they can be harvested at only 4 months!
You can see him divide off single nodes in this follow-up video:
We’ll be testing this method in Alabama. Having a shorter season to harvest would be greatly helpful. The plants barely get growing by June here, and if we could speed that up we wouldn’t have to overwinter our slower plants to get a harvest. You might even be able to push cassava production way up into USDA zone 5 or so if this works.
Our experiments with growing sugarcane from single nodes have worked well – why not cassava?
It seems that planting a single node greatly increases the rapidity of tuber initiation.
Try it, folks, and let me know what happens! We’ll be doing the same.
My household has a hook overflowing with canvas tote bags, not to mention a pile of sturdy plastic carry bags from IKEA and our grocery delivery service. Which is to say, we are not hurting for bags. However, when I saw Barebones’s harvesting bags, my heart went all aflutter: Here was a bag that could do so much more than even the sturdiest tote.
Photography courtesy of Barebones.
Above: The Harvesting & Gathering Bag used as a tote here.
Known for their heritage-inspired products for the outdoors, Barebones took their inspiration for the Harvesting & Gathering Bag fromvintage fruit picking bags, says Jessica Kopp, the brand’s vice president of marketing. As a result, it has a clever drop-out bottom: You unclip the bottom, unroll the canvas, and empty your harvest.
Like many of my totes, the bags are made from heavy-duty canvas, but these have been treated with a wax coating that makes the bag weather-and water-resistant. Both the thickness of the fabric and the waxing give it structure—a feature anyone who has found themselves constantly rearranging a floppy tote bag at the farmer’s market will appreciate.
Above: Here, it’s worn as a front-pack.
I bought a harvest basket last year, hoping it would be the solution to picking produce in the fields of my CSA, but I discovered it was just as awkward as my floppy totes. What I needed was a hands-free harvesting experience—which the Barebones bag can offer. Its straps can adjust to make the standard shoulder bag into a backpack, a front pack (ideal for apple picking!), or a cross body sling. It even comes with a removable waterproof liner that you can take out to shake off the dirt left behind from a bunch of just-picked-beets.
Above: Cross the straps and you can wear it like a backpack.
In addition to gathering fruits and vegetables, gardeners can use the bag to tote tools to a remote part of their garden or to gather cut flowers. You can even add a little water to the liner—treating it like a bucket—to keep your blossoms hydrated as you pick.
Above: What makes this bag so great: a drop-out bottom (at left) and a removable waterproof liner (at right).
Barebones also offers a smaller version of the Harvesting & Gathering Bag that they call their Foraging Bag. It’s a bucket-shaped model made from the same waxed canvas with a mesh bottom and removable waterproof liner. Even if you’re not the type to go foraging for chanterelles, this tote would be a great companion to carry your water bottle and snacks on a hike.
As a bonus, either of the Barebones bags are handsome enough that I could imagine carrying them around the city, just as easily as I could see toting them in the field or in the woods. It might just need another tote bag after all!
The gentle trickle of a water fountain can create a serene ambiance, adding tranquility to any space. Maintaining its functionality is crucial whether it graces your garden or decorates your living room. The heart of a fountain lies in its pump—a component that ensures the continuous flow of water.
But like any mechanical device, fountain pumps can experience wear and tear over time. Understanding the signs indicating pump issues can help prevent major breakdowns and keep your fountain running smoothly.
Sign 1: Recognizing Water Fountain Pump Issues: Decreased Water Flow in Your Fountain
A noticeable decrease in the water flow is one of the most evident and common signs that your water fountain pump might be on the verge of failure. Picture your once vibrant and lively fountain stream dwindling into a mere trickle, or worse, coming to a complete standstill. This reduction in flow is often a direct consequence of several potential issues within the pump system. Over time, the pump’s internal mechanisms may become clogged or obstructed by debris, hindering the smooth flow of water and potentially requiring comprehensive water fountain pump replacement services.
Sediment buildup, algae, or mineral deposits can gradually accumulate and impede the pump’s performance, reducing water output. Regular inspection and cleaning of the pump and its surrounding components can help mitigate these issues, ensuring your fountain continues showcasing its soothing water flow while potentially avoiding the need for extensive water fountain pump replacement services.
Sign 2: Investigating Pump Performance: Unusual Noises Emanating From Your Water Fountain Pump
Think of your fountain’s gentle soundscape—a symphony of tranquil flowing water. Yet, when your pump begins emitting unexpected noises—grinding, rattling, or clicking—it indicates its performance is compromised. These unusual sounds can serve as warning signals for various underlying issues affecting the pump’s functionality.
The grinding noise, for instance, could result from worn-out bearings within the pump motor, indicating a need for immediate attention. Similarly, a rattling sound might signify loose or damaged components, such as the impeller, that could disrupt the smooth operation of the pump.
Moreover, debris or foreign objects lodged within the pump can create clicking or knocking noises as they interfere with the normal rotation of the impeller. These sounds not only disrupt the peaceful ambiance of the fountain but also signify potential mechanical issues that, if left unaddressed, could lead to more severe pump failure. Understanding and promptly investigating these abnormal noises are crucial steps in diagnosing and resolving pump-related problems, ensuring your water fountain’s continued functionality and serenity.
Sign 3: Troubleshooting the Water Fountain Pump: Inconsistent Water Fountain Operation
Imagine the alarming scenario of your fountain oscillating between periods of robust water flow and sudden stoppages. This inconsistency often hints at underlying issues plaguing the pump. A faulty electrical connection is a prime suspect Among the potential culprits. Fluctuations in the power supply or loose wiring connections can disrupt the smooth operation of the pump, resulting in irregular water flow patterns. Furthermore, a malfunctioning pump switch could intermittently disrupt its function, causing it to start and stop unexpectedly.
Ensuring a consistent and sufficient water level is crucial for the pump’s optimal performance. By troubleshooting these potential issues systematically, you can identify and rectify the root cause behind the inconsistent operation of your water fountain, restoring its steady and serene flow.
Sign 4: Addressing Water Fountain Pump Integrity: Visible Leaks or Pooling Water Around the Pump
A concerning sign indicating potential pump trouble is the appearance of leaks or pooling water near the pump. This visible water accumulation might result from several underlying issues compromising the pump’s integrity. Damaged seals or gaskets within the pump can allow water to escape, manifesting as leaks around the pump housing. Similarly, cracks or fissures in the pump housing or tubing can lead to water pooling around the fountain’s base.
Moreover, loose or faulty connections between the pump and the fountain’s plumbing system can exacerbate leakage. Left unattended, these leaks signify potential pump failure and pose the risk of water damage to the surrounding area. Regular inspection of the pump and its connections, coupled with timely replacement of damaged components, is crucial in preserving the structural integrity of the fountain and ensuring the pump’s efficient performance.
Sign 5: Gauging the Lifespan of Your Water Fountain Pump: Age and Regular Maintenance
Understanding the lifespan of your water fountain pump is instrumental in preemptively addressing potential issues. Generally, fountain pumps can last anywhere from two to five years, with variations influenced by factors such as the pump’s quality, usage frequency, and adherence to maintenance routines. High-quality pumps and regular maintenance can often extend their operational lifespan.
Regular upkeep plays a pivotal role in ensuring the longevity of your pump. Routine maintenance includes periodic cleaning to remove debris and prevent clogs that can impede the pump’s performance. Additionally, inspecting and replacing worn-out parts, such as seals or bearings, can significantly prolong the pump’s life. Lubricating moving parts and checking the pump’s electrical connections are crucial to maintaining optimal pump function.
Conclusion
A water fountain can serve as a focal point of beauty and relaxation, but its functionality heavily relies on the health of its pump. Recognizing the signs indicating pump issues, such as decreased water flow, unusual noises, inconsistent operation, and leaks, and considering the pump’s age and maintenance is vital to sustaining its longevity. By promptly addressing these signs and replacing the pump when necessary, you can ensure your water fountain continues to enchant with its tranquil flow for years to come.
Kathy Sandel sent in just a few more photos of her current garden in Sacramento, California, and I couldn’t resist sharing them:
A stunningly perfect rose, and behind it a violet blue is verbena, the perennial variety (Verbena hybrid, Zone 9 – 11).
This is a dogwood flower (Cornus sp.) from a small tree planted in a large pot.
I have several full grown citrus trees. Orange, Meyer Lemon, a Sweet lime, 2 tangerines a blood orange and a Keffir lime in a pot.
Loropetalum (Loropetalumchinense, Zone 7 – 10) with pink flowers and dark foliage. The color is echoed by a the foliage of a New Zealand flax (Phormium, Zone 8 – 11) behind it.
What’s left of a peony flower, some dymondia (Dymondiamargaretae, Zone 9 – 11) and a sedum. I think this one is ‘Brilliant’, which flowers pinker than ‘Autumn Joy’. The chartreuse leafed plant might be a Spirea.
The house as it appeared when I bought it. Clean, but it wouldn’t melt your heart. I didn’t like the military color of the garage door and trim.
After shutters, a new paint job, and some rose vines: soil prep and drip irrigation for ground cover.
With dymondia ground cover planted. I love the look of the dimondia against the silver/lavender colors of succulents. However the dymondia was not happy here in the front. It loves the rear and side gardens, but it picked up a fungus in the front which weakened it and then the broiling august sun let me know that I needed to change it. I have since ripped it all out and have replanted with Ruschia lineolata ‘Nana’ (Zone 9 – 11) It is a new variety of ice plant, very tiny and grows tight to the ground. It seems to be doing great and they tell me it can be walked on. The tree is a pink flowering Crepe Myrtle.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Kelly D. Norris is the director of horticulture and education at the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden in Des Moines, Iowa. 
