Category: Home & Garden

Fittonia spp.

There’s something almost hypnotic about Fittonia leaves. The veining sprawls across each leaf in intricate patterns of white, pink, or red against deep or bright green.

It’s easy to see where the common name “nerve plant” comes from – those veins really do look like a delicate nervous system mapped across the foliage.

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These compact houseplants rarely grow more than six to eight inches tall, which makes them ideal for small spaces, terrariums, or anywhere you need a pop of color without taking up much room.

Native to the tropical rainforests of South America, you’ll also see these sold as mosaic or painted net leaf plants.

Nerve plants are not the easiest houseplants to cultivate and they have a reputation for being a bit fussy. That’s okay, I’m a bit fussy too.

In this guide, I’ll discuss everything you need to know to keep yours thriving. Here’s what I’ll cover:

Fittonia species are creeping evergreen perennials native to the tropical rainforests of Peru, Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, and northern Brazil.

On the forest floor, they form dense mats of foliage beneath the canopy thriving in dappled light and constant humidity.

With a prostrate, spreading growth habit, stems trail along the ground or cascade over the edges of containers, rooting at nodes wherever they touch soil.

This makes nerve plants excellent choices for hanging baskets, terrariums, or as tabletop plants.

In USDA Hardiness Zones 10 to 12, they can be grown outdoors as ground cover in shady, protected areas.

The ovate leaves measure two to four inches long with a soft texture and slightly quilted appearance.

The characteristic bold veining creates striking patterns across each leaf – depending on the variety, those veins appear in white, silver, pink, or red against a deep green background.

Though small white flowers may appear on short spikes during summer, they’re fairly insignificant compared to the showy foliage. Indoor specimens rarely flower.

Nerve plants are non-toxic to humans and pets, so I’m quite happy growing these with a curious Labrador retriever in residence. Not like those dumbcanes that I had to rehome.

Quick Look

Common name(s): Nerve plant, fittonia, mosaic plant, painted net leaf

Plant type: Evergreen perennial

Hardiness (USDA Zone): 11-12 (outdoors)

Native to: Tropical rainforests of South America

Bloom time: Summer (rare indoors)

Exposure: Bright, indirect light

Soil type: Moisture retentive, organically-rich, well-draining

Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic

Growth Rate: Moderate

Mature size: 3-8 inches tall by 6-18 inches spread

Best uses: Houseplant, hanging baskets, terrariums, ground cover

Taxonomy

Order: Lamiales

Family: Acanthaceae

Genus: Fittonia

Species: Albivenis, gigantea

The genus was named after Elizabeth and Sarah Fitton, Irish sisters whose book “Conversations on Botany,” published in 1817, helped popularize botanical study among women.

There are two species in the Fittonia genus, F. albivenis and F. gigantea.

F. albivenis is the primary species grown as a houseplant. The specific epithet “albivenis” translates to “white veins,” though modern cultivars come in a rainbow of colors.

Leaf edges are often gently crinkled or wavy, adding to the textural interest.

Nerve plants have earned a reputation as drama queens – they’re notorious for their theatrical wilting when they need water.

The good news is that they bounce back quickly when provided with the necessary moisture, usually within an hour or two.

This predictable behavior actually makes them easier to care for than many houseplants, since they tell you exactly when they need attention.

How to Grow

These tropical natives want conditions that mimic their rainforest home: warmth, humidity, and consistent moisture.

Light

Fittonia species thrive in bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled sunlight filtering through a rainforest canopy.

An east-facing window works well or a spot a few feet back from a south- or west-facing window where they won’t be exposed to harsh rays.

Too much direct sun will scorch the leaves causing them to turn brown and crispy.

Too little light and the plant becomes leggy with stems stretching toward the light source.

If you’re working with low-light conditions, nerve plants can tolerate it better than many tropicals, but the vein coloration may fade.

You may need to use a grow light if natural light is limited.

Temperature and Humidity

This tropical species needs warm temperatures – but not too hot! Keep the temperature between 60 and 80°F for best results.

Nerve plants can tolerate brief dips to around 55°F but if it drops below that, you’ll likely see leaf drop.

Avoid placing them near cold drafts, heating vents, or air conditioning units where temperature fluctuations can cause stress.

The most important aspect of growing nerve plants is that they need at least 50 percent relative humidity and they’re happier closer to 60 or 70 percent.

Dry air causes leaf edges to turn brown and growth slows to a crawl.

There are several ways to boost humidity. A bathroom with decent light is ideal – the steam from showers provides a natural humidity boost.

You can group houseplants together so they create their own microclimate or set the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water, making sure the pot sits on the pebbles above the water line.

You can also grow Fittonia in a terrarium which provides a humid environment.

Soil

Choose a potting medium that’s moisture-retentive but well-draining.

A peat-based or coco coir mix with added perlite or vermiculite is ideal. The goal is soil that stays evenly moist without becoming waterlogged.

I like Tank’s House Plant Potting Mix which contains a mixture of coco coir, compost, biochar, pumice to help with drainage, and Tank’s organic fertilizer.

Tank’s House Plant Potting Mix

You can find this excellent product available from Arbico Organics in eight- and 16-quart bags.

Make sure whatever container you use has drainage holes. This is non-negotiable as oversaturated soil can lead to root rot.

Because these are shallow-rooted, they do well in wide, shallow pots rather than deep containers.

Water

These houseplants are notorious for their dramatic fainting act when they are thirsty – leaves wilt spectacularly, flopping over like they’ve given up on life.

The good news? Give them a drink and they’ll typically perk up within an hour or two.

However, repeated wilting episodes will eventually damage the plant, causing leaf drop and stunted growth.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. Water when the top quarter-inch of soil feels dry to the touch.

During the growing season in spring and summer, this might mean watering every few days. In fall and winter when growth slows, you’ll need to water less frequently.

The soil should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge at all times. You can use a moisture meter to guide you.

Use room-temperature water to avoid shocking the roots. See our guide to watering houseplants here.

Fertilizer

Nerve plants aren’t heavy feeders. During spring and summer, you can apply a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength every two to four weeks.

In fall and winter, reduce to once a month or skip fertilizing entirely since growth naturally slows.

If you potted in a medium that already has compost or fertilizer, you can skip feeding altogether and just refresh the soil once a year.

Overfertilization can cause salt buildup in the soil, leading to brown leaf tips and edges. You can learn more about fertilizing houseplants here.

Species and Cultivars

As mentioned, the Fittonia genus includes two species but F. albivenis is by far the most common in cultivation.

F. albivenis is divided into two main cultivar groups: Argyroneura, which features white or silver veins, and Verschaffeltii, which displays red or pink veining.

Historically, these were treated as separate species – F. argyroneura and F. verschaffeltii – but taxonomists now recognize them as cultivar groups within a single species.

Modern breeding has produced dozens of named cultivars in various sizes and colors. Here are some standouts:

Most are sold simply labeled by vein color – white, pink, or red – without specific cultivar names.

Pink Nerve Plant

You can find a pink variety in two-and-a-half-inch pots available from Hirt’s Gardens via Walmart.

Red-Veined Nerve Plant

If red is more your style, Hirt’s Gardens has specimens in three-inch pots available via Walmart.

White Nerve Plant

Prefer white? Pick up plants in four-inch pots from Florida House Plants via Walmart.

A few named cultivars occasionally show up at specialty nurseries. Here are a few standout options:

Pink Angel

‘Pink Angel’ is a miniature Verschaffeltii Group cultivar that typically reaches just three to four inches tall with a dense, bushy growth habit.

The leaves are small with intense bright pink veining that covers much of the surface. Works well in terrariums and small containers.

Ruby Red

A Verschaffeltii Group selection, ‘Ruby Red’ features dark green leaves with rich crimson veining.

The red coloration is deep and saturated, creating bold contrast against the olive-green background.

White Anne

‘White Anne’ is an Argyroneura Group cultivar with dense white veining that dominates the leaf surface, leaving only thin strips of dark green between the veins.

The overall effect is almost silvery white rather than green.

Maintenance

Pinch back stem tips regularly to encourage bushy growth. Left to their own devices, especially in low light conditions, nerve plants can become leggy.

Pinching just above a leaf node redirects energy into lateral growth, creating a fuller, more dense plant.

You can also remove any yellowed, brown, or damaged leaves as they appear. Just snip them off at the base.

If flower spikes appear, which is not common when grown indoors, most growers pinch them off as flowering takes energy away from foliage production.

You’ll likely need to repot every year or two. If you see roots growing out of the drainage holes, it’s time to pot up.

The best time to do this is in spring, when the plant is actively growing.

Choose a new pot just one to two inches larger in diameter than the current container. Going too large can lead to overly wet soil since there won’t be enough root mass to take up the moisture.

Gently remove the plant, loosen the roots slightly if they’re tightly bound, and place it in the new pot at the same depth it was in the previous container.

Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and water well.

If your home is very dusty, wipe leaves gently with a damp cloth occasionally, or give the whole plant a gentle rinse in lukewarm water if it’s small enough to move easily to a sink or shower.

Propagation

One of the joys of growing Fittonia is how easily it propagates. You can create new plants via stem cuttings or division, both of which have high success rates.

Stem Cuttings

In spring or early summer, select a healthy stem with at least two to three leaf nodes.

Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to take a cutting two to four inches long, making your cut just below a node.

Remove the lower leaves from the bottom inch of the stem, leaving two to three leaves at the top.

At this point you have two options: you can root in water or soil.

Set the cutting in a small jar or glass with enough water to cover the nodes but ensure the leaves are not submerged.

Change the water every few days to keep it fresh.

Roots should appear within two to three weeks. When roots reach about an inch long – usually after four to six weeks – pot up the cutting in soil.

If you prefer to propagate in soil, fill a small pot with moist, well-draining potting mix and insert the cutting an inch deep.

Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place it in a propagation tray with a humidity dome to maintain moisture. Set it in bright, indirect light.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. You’ll know the cutting has rooted when you see new growth emerging, typically within three to four weeks.

By Division

If you have a mature Fittonia that has outgrown its container you can divide it to produce new plants.

Gently remove the nerve plant from its pot and shake off excess soil so you can see the roots clearly.

Using your hands or a clean knife, separate the root ball into two or three sections, making sure each division has both roots and stems with foliage attached.

Pot each section in its own container with fresh potting mix and water well. Maintain even moisture, but don’t allow the soil to become waterlogged.

New growth should appear within a few weeks.

Pests and Disease

Fittonia species don’t tend to suffer from pests or diseases unless they are stressed by low humidity, overwatering, or lack of light.

Pests

The most common pests that show up are sapsuckers: mealybugs, scale, and spider mites. Fungus gnats can appear in oversaturated conditions.

Fungus Gnats

Fungus gnats are small flies and while the adults don’t do much damage, the larvae feed on organic matter and roots.

Yellow sticky traps catch the adults. You can also drench the soil with diluted neem oil to kill larvae.

Read our guide to managing fungus gnats here.

Mealybugs

Mealybugs appear as white, cottony clusters on stems and leaf axils. They suck sap, causing yellowing and stunted growth.

For light infestations, dab individual insects with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol.

In the case of a heavy infestation, spray the plant thoroughly with insecticidal soap or neem oil, making sure to coat both sides of leaves and all stems.

Learn more about mealybugs here.

Scale

Scale insects look like small brown or tan bumps on stems and leaves. They’re immobile but damaging – sucking sap and weakening the plant over time.

Remove them manually with a cotton bud dipped in rubbing alcohol, then treat the plant with neem oil or horticultural oil to catch any you missed.

Check out our guide to managing scale to learn more.

Spider Mites

Spider mites are tiny arachnids that create fine webbing between leaves. Leaves may develop stippling and eventually turn brown.

They thrive in dry conditions, which is one reason maintaining humidity is so important.

You’re unlikely to see the pests themselves as they are so small but if you notice webbing, spray the plant with water to knock them off. You can also use neem oil or insecticidal soap.

Disease

Most disease issues stem from too much moisture – either in the soil or on the foliage.

Leaf Spot

Leaf spot can develop when water sits on the foliage for extended periods.

Various fungi and bacteria cause similar symptoms: brown, tan, or black spots on leaves, sometimes with yellow halos.

Water at the soil level rather than from above. Improve air circulation. Remove affected leaves promptly. If the problem persists, treat with neem oil or a copper-based fungicide.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew occasionally shows up as white, powdery patches on the foliage usually in conditions with high humidity but poor air circulation.

Increase air movement, reduce humidity slightly if possible, and treat with neem oil.

Learn more about managing powdery mildew here.

Root Rot

Root rot, caused by various fungi and water molds including Pythium species, is the most serious concern.

It appears as yellowing lower leaves, wilting despite moist soil, and eventually mushy, blackened roots.

If root rot develops, remove the plant from its pot, trim away affected roots with clean scissors, repot in fresh soil, and adjust your watering schedule.

Our guide to managing root rot has more information.

Don’t Lose Your Nerve

Despite their fussy reputation, Fittonia species aren’t actually that difficult to grow when you understand what they need.

Get the humidity right, keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and provide bright indirect light. You’ll be rewarded with vibrant, patterned foliage that brings tropical flair to small spaces.

Do you grow nerve plants? Share your experiences in the comments section below – and feel free to share a picture!

And to learn more about growing houseplants, add these guides to your reading list next:

Happy Friday GPODers!

Yesterday we were transported back to warm weather and peak season color thanks to Ezequiel Martín Barakat in Buenos Aires, Argentina (Be sure to check that out, if you missed it: Spring in Ezequiel’s Argentina Garden), but today we’re celebrating the beauty that a subdued winter garden can provide. Carol Verhake in Berwyn, Pennsylvania has shared her garden with us many times in the past (Check out her garden in other seasons: Revisiting Carol’s Fall Garden, Carefully Chosen Colors Bring a Garden Together, New Spaces in Carol’s Garden, and more), but some of our favorite submissions are of her winter landscape (Carol’s Garden in Winter, Snow in Carol’s Garden, Beauty in the Winter Garden, and January in Carol’s Garden). Today she is back to share some gorgeous shots of her beautiful winter garden that was made even more enchanting by a fresh blanket of snow.

It’s been a while since I last shared photos. Life got busy, and on June 19, straight-line winds caused significant tree damage in my garden. I chose to leave one massive fallen tree where it landed, naming that area Mother Nature’s Fury—not the first time she’s left her mark there.

Last night, several inches of snow fell, blanketing the garden in white. This is when it feels most special: quiet, calm, and insistent that you slow down and notice the details. I couldn’t love it more.

Carol Verhake
Berwyn, PA
Zone 7

In the quieter landscapes of winter, garden elements that sometimes fade into the background during more lively seasons now take center stage. Paperbark maple (Acer griseum, Zone 4–8) is a gorgeous tree all year-round, but it becomes a glowing focal point in the late season.

Carol has made many superb plant selections for an exciting winter garden. ‘Early Amethyst’ beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma ‘Early Amethyst’, Zone 5–8) is just wrapping up it’s yearly performance with these gorgeous clusters of pretty purple fruit, which were preceded by lush, verdant foliage and small, pink to lavender flowers.

Other plants in Carol’s garden, like this bluebeard (Caryopteris x clandonensis, Zone 6–9), provide interest through plant structures that have already faded. These seed heads don’t add exciting color, but are the clusters provide interesting shapes and perfect perches for clumps of snow to cling on to.

Other plants, like paperbush (Edgeworthia chrysantha, Zone 7–10), are excellent choices for the new growth they get at the end of the season. These buds won’t open until very late winter to early spring, but their silvery-green color are still an interesting addition to a winter landscape.

Another plant Carol enjoys for interesting seed heads and dried blooms are hydrangeas. This lacecap hydrangea will give an even more convincing lace illusion as the snow begins to melt.

The first snowfalls of the season can be the most interesting, and not only because we haven’t yet tired of clearing cars, driveways and sidewalks. Some deciduous trees and shrubs often still have faded foliage that give the snow more surfaces to coat. Carol’s oriental spicebush (Lindera angustifolia, Zone 6–8) was still covered in light orange leaves when this snow hit.

Carol has demonstrated how deciduous plants can still provide interest through fading foliage and seed heads, but evergreens are synonymous with winter for a reason. Conifers are always classic, but there is a whole world of trees, shrubs, and even some perennials to explore. Carol’s leatherleaf mahonia (Mahonia bealei, Zone 7–9) is s standout selection and adds and extra pop of color with leaves tipped in a vibrant orange-red.

Carol’s garden is instantly recognizable from her stunning stone moon gate. Serving as a kind of picture frame in the landscape, many moments of magic have been captured through and around this garden portal. In this season the gate is showcasing the fallen tree that Carol mentioned in her intro.

Winter is also an time to take appreciation of some of the darker themes of life, like decay and death. The last leaves of a ‘Black Tower’ elderberry (Sambucus nigra ‘EIFFEL 1’, Zone 4–8) are sure to fall after this snowstorm, but they held on long enough to provide one last moment of interest and intrigue.

Berries are always a wonderful addition to winter gardens for their bright color as well as the sustenance they provide birds during this unforgiving time of year. The vibrant red berries of ‘Winter Red’ winterberry (Ilex verticillata ‘Winter Red’, Zone 3–9) are extra radiant against a snowy white backdrop.

With berries, seed heads, and plenty of places for shelter, it’s no surprise that birds make visits to Carol’s garden in winter. This white-throated sparrow (Zonotrichia albicollis) looks well-fed for the cold months ahead.

Thank you so much for another incredible collection of photos, Carol! Your winter submissions are incredible sources of inspiration and fantastic reminders that beauty is abundant in every season.

From fresh snow scenes to those rare winter blooms, please consider sharing photos of your winter garden with the blog. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Hi GPODers!

In the Northern Hemisphere, the final months of the year represent a slowing in our outside world. Cooler weather rolls in and snow flies as we begin retreating inside for a season of rest and reflection. Meanwhile, the Southern Hemisphere is just starting to really heat up as their peak seasons arrive. It is often during the holidays that this difference can be most interesting to experience and contemplate. So it’s a particularly special treat today that we get to explore the garden of Ezequiel Martín Barakat in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Ezequiel has shared his cottage gardens through the seasons over the years (Check out his previous submissions: Ezequiel’s Early Spring Garden in Buenos Aires, Ezequiel’s Autumn in Buenos Aires, A Cottage Garden in Buenos Aires, and Cottage Style Dreams in Buenos Aires), and today he’s back with an update on a fabulous spring season.

Mis queridos amigos de Fine Gardening! (My dear friends of Fine Gardening!)

Winter there, here an explosion of life, color, warmth, spring, the sage in full bloom… Life at its most splendid. My cottage garden bursts with colors and perfumes. I enjoy every sunset in the shade of the linden trees, intoxicated by the scent of jasmine. Life is reborn. My flowerbeds explode with dahlias, jasmine, agapanthus, crocosmias, lavender, gardenias… When I lie down under a tree, I can feel that Life is worth living… MERRY Christmas from Buenos Aires, Argentina!

Ezequiel

Ezequiel’s spring garden has no shortage of color—we get a taste of it here with vibrant clumps of purple heart (Tradescantia pallida, Zone 10–11 or as an annual)—but it is the rich tapestry of greens that makes his garden a true tropical oasis.

This photo is an even better representation of that fact. Large dahlia blooms are the focal point and attention-grabbers in this bed, but the wonderful mix of foliage shapes and colors keep your eyes bouncing from plant to plant.

Ezequiel aspired for a cottage garden design in his Buenos Aires garden, it’s incredible to see the abundance that has developed over the years. His densely planted beds with a diverse range of plants epitomize the cottage style, but adapted for a humid, subtropical climate.

Ezequiel also has the space for large clumps of plants that create fine-textured backdrops for smaller plants. A bright red gladiolus still stands out amongst the busy foliage of zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’, Zone 5–9).

In typical cottage garden style, plants are encouraged to cascade and crawl over certain areas of the landscape. This light pink hydrangea adds color and softness to some hardscape.

A ‘Wendy’s Wish’ sage (Salvia ‘Wendy’s Wish’, Zone 9–11 or as an annual) continues the pink color story, and is paired with bright red poppies for a little more heat.

One final shot shows the grassy paths that cut through Ezequiel’s lush beds. It will be awhile before most of us in the north see this kind of vibrant greenery again, but these photos are a beautiful reminder that there is new garden life at the end of this winter tunnel.

Thank you so much for sharing your garden with us again, Ezequiel! It’s fascinating to see gardens from the other half of our world and admire the dichotomy as well as the similarities, and your landscape is a real treat.

Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Hi GPODers!

We’re back in Manteno, Illinois to enjoy the gorgeous gardens of John and Lee Algozzini. In case you missed it yesterday (be sure to check out Part 1, if you did) John is a recently retired garden designer with decades of experience and plenty of awards under his belt. He creates gorgeous designs for his clients, but has crafted an equally delightful landscape at his home. This is his “getaway garden”.

Another wonderful shot of John’s back garden. A wonderful mix of ornamental grass and vibrant flowers make for a diverse and eclectic landscape.

John’s expansive plant palette highlights his style. There are plenty of under-appreciated species and cultivars as well we classic beauties like this ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ peony (Paeonia lactiflora ‘Sarah Bernhardt’, Zone 3–8).

John’s patio is a shady oasis that is already gorgeous thanks to beautiful hardscaping and furniture choices, but pairs of beautiful crotons (Codiaeum variegatum, Zone 11–12 or as an annual) and ferns connect it to the gardens and add vibrant color.

This photo really highlights the calm, cool vibe of John’s garden. While the patio is dominated by hotter colors, greens in purples in other areas of the garden provide a wonderful sense of serenity. A mint green and purple bench is the perfect accent in this vignette, and must be a lovely spot for a quick pause.

Continuing the purple theme, a ‘Caesar’s Brother’ Siberian iris (Iris sibirica ‘Caesar’s Brother’, Zone 3–8) adds a richer and more vibrant hue to the garden.

As I mentioned yesterday, John has an incredible collection of daylilies. The cultivar ‘Charlie’s Dream’ (Hemerocallis ‘Charlie’s Dream’, Zone 3–9) is a striking mix of light pink and bright yellow.

Another one of John’s fantastic plant selections is this Osprey spiderwort (Tradescantia x andersoniana ‘Osprey’, Zone 4–9). The three-petal blooms of spiderwort are really striking, but the vibrant and spiky foliage makes this plant a double-dose of interest.

John gave us a glimpse of the interest still found in his gardens during the winter months. A Japanese red pine (Pinus densiflora, Zone 3–7) becomes even more sculpturesque when coated with ice and snow.

And we’ll end on another stunning cultivar in John’s daylily collection,’Apricot Sparkles’ (Hemerocallis ‘Apricot Sparkles’, Zone 3–9).

Thank you so much for these gorgeous photos of your garden and a wonderful introduction to your designs, John! If this is what you create in your spare time, I cannot imagine the beauty you created for your clients.

Professionals and amateurs, hobbyists and connoisseurs, we welcome gardeners of all kinds at Garden Photo of the Day! No matter how and why you choose to garden, we would love an opportunity to showcase and celebrate your special space. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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Hi GPODers!

This week is kicking off with some master classes in landscape design. Yesterday we saw a stunning front garden transformation designed by Bas Suharto in Ottawa, Ontario (Bas Designs a Front Yard Garden in Ottawa), and today we’re heading to Manteno, Illinois to get inspired by the the home garden of John and Lee Algozzini. John is a recently retired garden designer of 44 years, and the winner of multiple design and construction awards. He has crafted countless gardens for his clients, but today he is showcasing the thoughtful and serene scenes that he created at home.

John has selected a sensational palette of plants with a wide range of interest, but has also composed a design that is calming and cohesive. A continuous, curved border around the backyard fence creates an easy path for the eye to follow, but a stunning Summer Charm® Chinese lilac (Syringa pekinensis ‘DTR 124’, Zone 3–7) stands out as the central focal point.

At dusk the landscape becomes even more magical as lights scattered throughout the garden cast certain vignettes in a warm glow.

While the overall feel of the garden is calm and controlled, there are still moments of whimsy and fun. ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’, Zone 5–9) is always a striking backdrop and Russian stonecrop (Sedum kamtschaticum, Zone 3–10) creates a lush carpet of green, but the planter head with a pop of chartreuse easily steals attention.

In the spring, an eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis, Zone 4–8) brings a pop of pink to this shady green border.

More berry shades arrive in summer. John has planted a wonderful collection of daylilies, including the vibrant purple cultivar ‘Indian Giver’ (Hemerocallis ‘Indian Giver’, Zone 3–9).

Another photo at dusk shows off how carefully placed color make John’s plantings dazzling. The peachy hues of Caramel coral bells (Heuchera ‘Caramel’, Zone 4–9) around this big limestone bird bath make this vignette of diverse foliage even more dynamic.

There is, of course, plenty of floral color, too. ‘Solar Flare’ baptisia (Baptisia ‘Solar Flare’, Zone 4–9) adds some warmth and pairs well with the ‘Blue Totem’ Colorado spruce (Picea pungens ‘Blue Totem’, Zone 4–8) behind.

However, the areas where green reigns supreme are anything but boring. A range of foliage shapes and textures make the subtle changes in color more exciting, and limestone bed edging ties into the many other limestone elements in the garden.

It’s no surprise that the patio is equally stylish and colorful. In fall, annual flowers and bold foliage plants get an autumnal twist with many bright orange pumpkins added to the container displays.

Lastly, John has created another calming, but captivating combination of Jacob’s ladder (Baptisia ‘Solar Flare’, Zone 3–8) and Korean feather reed grass (Calamagrostis brachytricha, Zone 4–9). The blooms of Jacob’s later provide color for the earlier part of the growing season, while the Korean reed grass will take its turn to shine when plumes emerge in late summer.

John shared so many spectacular photos of his garden that we will be returning to Illinois tomorrow to enjoy more of his incredible designs and show-stopping plant selections.

Keep an eye out for GPOD in your inbox tomorrow, and consider sharing your photos to get your garden featured. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

Fine Gardening Recommended Products

Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes

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Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs.

Johnny’s Selected Seeds Connecta® Cultivation Kit

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Choose the right tool head for the job and switch out quickly with a simple push-button release. Includes the Connecta receiver, Connecta Collinear 4 head, Connecta Collinear 7 head, Connecta Contour Wire 4 head, Connecta Contour Wire 6 head, a sustainably harvested oiled ashwood handle, and a stainless-steel carrying clip.

Pruning Simplified: A Step-by-Step Guide to 50 Popular Trees and Shrubs

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Pruning Simplified shows you exactly how to do it. This must-have guide offers expert advice on the best tools for the job, specific details on when to prune, and clear instructions on how to prune. Profiles of the 50 most popular trees and shrubs—including azaleas, camellias, clematis, hydrangeas, and more—include illustrated, easy-to-follow instructions that will ensure you make the right cut the first time.

Happy Monday GPODers!

The garden goes quiet, colors become more muted, and the snow flies. Winter has officially arrived and our garden chores have switched from active participation to reflective planning. To make the most of your growing season, these are the months to compile all of your ideas and inspiration. Thankfully, Bas Suharto is here to show us an another incredible garden he designed in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada that will get anyone’s creative juices flowing. Bas has shared several of the stunning gardens he has helped bring to life, often utilizing Japanese garden design principles (Check out some of his previous submissions: The Small World of a Japanese-Style Courtyard Garden, A Japanese Dry Garden in Quebec, Building a Garden With Bas, and Building a Japanese-Inspired Garden). Today’s front yard transformation is no different, and he has all the photos to demonstrate how an boring entryway was transformed into a lush and welcoming landscape.

I would like to share Garden Photos of the Day of Debby and Michael. I know Debby and Michael after their visit the garden of their friends in summer 2024. The garden is the courtyard garden which I worked to bring back the spirit of Japanese style garden.

Summer 2025 is the first year of Debby and Michael’s garden as the result of their work on planting perennials, lifting and arranging the stones, installing stones and lawn borders and arranging black pebble stones one-by-one!

The proposed 3D model of ‘the island’ with the lantern and perennial ground cover and pebble stones and 3/8″ river wash stones. Some boxwood shrubs around. In the far sight are variegated irises, oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia, Zone 5–9), peonies, and yellow barberries.

Here is the black pebble stones they have arranged around the rocks, it is a small area as dry garden and it has an island covered with thyme (Thymus serpyllum, Zone 4–8).

This is their front yard in 2024 before the new garden built, it has boxwood shrubs, peonies, hostas, and the mock orange.

After some discussions, I created 3D images based on Debby’s sketch and existing condition, and I proposed some perennials and keep some of the existing hostas, peonies, boxwoods, and mock orange. The size of their front yard is 46 ft X 36 ft, and the big mature trees are existing silver maple tree (Acer saccharinum, Zone 3–9).

Early summer 2025, the thyme in bloom, the Japanese forest grasses (Hakonechloa macra, Zone 5–9) planted between the boxwood. Unfortunately, boxwood moths invested boxwood shrubs in their neighbourhood with voracious leaf eater caterpillars. These moths affected their garden too, so some boxwood shrubs have rolled/yellowing-white leaves.

Other plants are: variegated bearded irises (Iris pallida ‘Variegata’, Zone 4–9) and oakleaf hydrangeas. They added some annuals, like red begonias.

Along the pathways toward the sidewalk, there are some boxwoods with round shape and in between are hakone grass. Along the curve lawn, they planted Stella D’Oro daylilies (Hemerocallis ‘Stella de Oro’, Zone 3–10). The tall shrub is standing Korean dwarf lilac (Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’, Zone 3–7). Under the window, on the left, there are 3 American arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Degroot’s Spire’, Zone 2–7) and hostas. Debby added some Boston ferns (Nephrolepis exaltata, Zone 10–12) and herbs in the pots at the entrance steps.

The view from the outdoor seating area next to their house with the gate which has Japanese stye roof built in the summer 2025. In front of the gate is the lantern and the ‘island’ with river-washed stones and pebbles. The mock orange shrub is standing to break to view of the street.

Thank you so much for sharing this gorgeous garden with us Bas! The way you collaborate with your clients is always impressive, a perfect mixture of your design sensibilities and their personality.

Did you complete any garden upgrades or transformations this year? From adding a new garden bed to completely redesigning your landscape, we would love to hear about the process and see some photos. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

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Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

Sturdy yet lightweight, these obelisks provide ample support for climbing plants while being easy to install and move. The medium obelisk stands 68 1/2″ high overall with a diameter of about 9 1/2″, compact enough for smaller containers indoors or out. The large size stands 86 1/2″ high with a diameter of 15 3/4″, ideal for larger outdoor spaces and containers.

Nelson Multi-Pattern Stationary Sprinkler

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– 8 Pre-Set Watering Patterns
– Impact-resistant, plastic base
– Soft grip on multi-pattern head

ARS Telescoping Long Reach Pruner

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Telescopes from 4 to 7′. Cut and Hold (160) Blades. Drop forged blades for unsurpassed long lasting sharpness. Lightweight, 2.3 lbs., for continued use. Perfectly balanced for easy pruning.