Category: Home & Garden

Azalea varieties are versatile and colorful shrubs that can flourish in more places than you’d expect

Coming from the Southeastern United States, it is hard for me to imagine a garden without azalea varieties in the mix. Their ubiquity can sometimes cause them to be overlooked for the stellar performers that they are. Azaleas are a diverse group of plants, ranging from low-growing evergreens to tall, towering deciduous shrubs, all with an unmatched range of flower colors. There is likely an azalea that can fill almost any niche in the garden. While there are about 15 to 18 species native to the United States, all of which are deciduous and primarily confined to the coastal states, the majority of the azalea varieties grown in gardens are hybrids of evergreen Asian species.

Read More: What’s Wrong with Your Azalea? Symptoms of Common Problems

Azaleas were once considered their own separate genus, but modern taxonomists consider them to be part of the Rhododendron genus today. They can be found growing from the subtropics into quite cold places, but most plants in cultivation tend to grow best in warmer Zone 6 to 9 locations. In areas with extreme heat and little to no winter dormancy (Zone 9), azaleas can suffer, while in the colder end of their zonal range, the plants can die from a cold snap.

There are thousands of azalea selections that have been named and introduced. Most are historical footnotes, but a few older varieties have stood the test of time and are still among the best. New cultivars are being introduced regularly; some of the most exciting ones are deciduous hybrids, which are expanding our concept of what azaleas can be.

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AZALEAS AT A GLANCE

Rhododendron spp. and cvs.

Zones: 3–9
Size: Ranges widely from 2 to 15 feet tall and wide
Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moist, acidic, well-drained soil
Native range: East Asia, Eastern United States, and Europe
Growing tips: Once situated, most azaleas are quite drought tolerant and will always prefer drier soils to ones that are too wet, which can cause root rot even in established plants. For best results in heavy soils, plant them on a slope or with the top of the root ball above the surrounding grade. Azaleas have shallow, fibrous root systems and benefit from a regular top dressing of compost and a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch.

 

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Classic standbys: Azalea varieties with timeless appeal

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‘Rosebud’ azalea brings classical beauty to cold climes

Rhododendron ‘Rosebud’
Zones: 5b–9
Size: 2 to 4 feet tall and 4 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid

Although there are several azaleas named ‘Rosebud’, only one can commonly be found in nurseries, and this old Gable hybrid has remained a go-to for good reason. It forms a low, dense mound of evergreen foliage, which is covered in mid-spring with lots of 2-inch-wide, hose-in-hose (with one whorl of petals inside another) pink blooms.

The double flowers look like sweetheart rose buds and give a subtly distinct texture to the plant, even from a distance. The Gable hybrids were bred to be more cold tolerant than most other selections on the market when they were developed in the mid-twentieth century, and ‘Rosebud’ extends the range of small evergreen azaleas a full hardiness zone colder than most others.

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| GOOD TO KNOW |

What’s the difference between azaleas and rhododendrons?

A square is always a rectangle, but a rectangle isn’t always a square. In the same manner, an azalea is always a rhododendron but not vice versa. So what exactly differentiates them? Keep in mind that while these differences tend to hold true, there is a reason why these groups are merged together, and separating them out can sometimes be tricky even for an expert.

FEATURES	AZALEAS	RHODODENDRONS
Size	Usually smaller shrubs	Often larger shrubs, but can also be small (particularly the deciduous species)
Leaves	Can have appressed (flat-lying) hairs on the backs of leaves	May have scales or dots on the backs of leaves
Flower Stamens	Typically 5 to 6	10 or more
Flower Shape	Funnel-shaped	Often bell-shaped
Deciduous/Evergreen	Evergreen or deciduous	Mostly evergreen, some deciduous

 

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‘Glacier’ azalea may be the best-performing white-flowered variety out there

Rhododendron ‘Glacier’
Zones: 6–9
Size: 5 to 6 feet tall and wide
Native range: Hybrid

The U.S. National Arboretum has been breeding and introducing plants for over a century, but their azalea breeding program of the 1930s and 1940s was perhaps the most prolific. During that period, they introduced 440 different evergreen azaleas to the market. Many of these introductions are still mainstays, and ‘Glacier’ is among the cream of the crop.

Young plants often grow taller than wide but will spread out over time. In very early spring, large 3-inch-wide white flowers with greenish spots deep in their throats adorn the plant. Time-tested ‘Glacier’ tolerates sun better than many other white-flowered varieties, which often look bleached out by midsummer.

 

A showy picotee, ‘Fascination’ makes a bold statement in late spring

Rhododendron ‘Fascination’ (syn. Rhododendron ‘Harris Fascination’)
Zones: 7–9
Size: 3 to 4 feet tall and wide
Native range: Hybrid

Part of what makes evergreen azaleas such prized landscape plants is their endless variety of flower colors and forms. Few other plants can match the exotic and distinctive look of ‘Fascination’. This relatively late-flowering azalea is worth growing for the huge 4-inch-wide blossoms alone. But add in the soft pink color of the blooms with their dark red border, and this variety becomes a standout. Although the name is technically ‘Fascination’, you can expect to find it listed as
‘Harris Fascination’ more often than not, to distinguish it from others with the same name.

Plant Autumn Royalty^® Encore azalea for a taste of springtime in fall

Rhododendron ‘Conlec’
Zones: 6–10
Size: 4½ to 5 feet tall and 4 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid

An event that marks a true shift in horticulture is usually noted only in hindsight, but from the moment the first Encore azaleas were released, it was obvious that evergreen azaleas would never be the same. Using a Taiwanese azalea species, R. oldhamii, which flowers in late summer and into fall, a nurseryman in Alabama created the first reblooming azaleas, which flower in spring and then again at the close of the growing season.

Autumn Royalty^®, a winner of the American Rhododendron Society’s Azalea of the Year award in 2004, was among the first introduced in the late 1990s and remains one of the best available. It grows as a somewhat upright shrub (photo p. 39) with largish foliage that is smothered in 3½-inch-wide purple flowers. Encore azaleas will reflower best if planted in full sun to very light shade.

‘Homebush’ is a century old and still one of the top varieties

Rhododendron ‘Homebush’
Zones: 5–9
Size: 4 to 6 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid

The Knap Hill hybrid deciduous azaleas have a venerable history beginning in the 1870s in England. Among the original named introductions was ‘Homebush’ in 1926. One hundred years later, this is still perhaps the most widely grown deciduous azalea hybrid in the United States. Large trusses of semidouble, rich pink flowers with a hint of purple top the very upright stems just before and while the leaves are emerging. Like other deciduous azaleas, ‘Homebush’ is less prone to root rot than evergreen types but still needs good drainage.

 

The neon orange blooms of ‘Don’s Variegated’ Florida azalea are just the beginning

Rhododendron austrinum ‘Don’s Variegated’
Zones: 5b–10
Size: 6 to 10 feet tall and 4 to 8 feet wide
Native range: Lower Southeastern United States

To most people, an azalea is an evergreen shrub, and they struggle to think outside this box. At least, that is my only theory as to why our native deciduous azaleas and their hybrids are not grown in every garden. There are few plants that can match the sheer saturation of flower color that these azaleas often produce.

‘Don’s Variegated’ has been around for many years and is well-known for its blaze of rounded orange trusses, which open on bare stems before the leaves emerge. The flowers provide valuable nectar for the first hummingbirds and butterflies to appear in spring. This selection offers further seasonal interest with leaves speckled with flecks of creamy yellow for a subtle summer show.

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| Azalea Pruning Tip |

Pruning azaleas is easier than you think. There is no need to prune azaleas for health reasons other than to remove crossing branches or an unruly shoot or two. If you must prune, do it within a month after flowering finishes. You won’t hurt the plants if you prune later in summer, but you risk cutting off next spring’s flower buds.

If you inherit a huge, overgrown azalea or you’ve neglected yours too long, don’t worry. You can cut it back almost to the ground, and it will regrow from the stumps. You won’t have any flowers the following spring, but the rejuvenated plant will surprise you with how quickly and densely it grows back.

Learn More: A Guide to Growing Great Azaleas

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Newer or underused azalea varieties worth seeking out

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‘Touch of Pink’ brings soft color to hot spots, and smells good as well

Rhododendron ‘Touch of Pink’
Zones: 6b–9
Size: 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid of native species

The deciduous Aromi series of azaleas from southern Alabama was bred for extreme heat tolerance, disease resistance, and fragrance—the last of which is often undervalued in azaleas. ‘Touch of Pink’, one of the 100 or so Aromi hybrids, combines all of those traits with style. Flowers grow as large as a whopping 4 inches wide and appear in clusters atop the bare branches in spring. The white flowers are blushed with pink, and the upper petals are streaked with gold. It is truly one of the signature delights that this variety offers when its enticing, spicy-sweet fragrance wafts through the garden.

 

The creeping habit of ‘Orange Carpet’ accentuates its bright blooms

Rhododendron ‘Orange Carpet’
Zones: 6–10
Size: 2 feet tall and 4 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid of native species

Deciduous azaleas don’t have the wide variety of forms that their evergreen cousins do. Invariably, they are upright plants that usually grow either taller than they do wide, or ultimately spread as wide as they grow tall. This presumed hybrid between two native species breaks the mold by spreading out horizontally rather than growing vertically. Cheery orange flowers cover the plant and are a beacon to early arriving butterflies and hummingbirds. First discovered in Georgia about 65 years ago, this plant isn’t exactly new. However, its popularity is slowly growing, and it can take many years for a nursery to have enough plants to offer for sale.

Learn More: 10 Flowering Evergreen Shrubs

‘Wolfpack Red’ azalea will wow you with its arresting color and disease resistance

Rhododendron ‘Wolfpack Red’
Zones: 6b–9
Size: 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid

The Carla hybrid azaleas, released in the late 1970s and 1980s, were bred for superior root rot resistance, heavy flowering, and good drought tolerance. While some have continued to be mainstays in nurseries, ‘Wolfpack Red’ is not well-known. It forms a durable, low-growing shrub with dark green evergreen foliage topped with deep, rich red flowers.

Its dense form rivals that of other low-growing evergreen shrubs like dwarf Japanese hollies (Ilex crenata cvs., Zones 5–9) but with the added benefit of a spectacular spring show. Befitting the goals of its breeding program, this is still one of the more rot-resistant varieties available today, and the flower color can’t be beat.

Learn More: Underused Rhododendrons

‘Northern Hi-Lights’ delivers sunny spring cheer to the coldest regions

Rhododendron ‘Northern Hi-Lights’
Zones: 3–9
Size: 4 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid

The University of Minnesota has a deciduous azalea breeding program with the goal of bringing these shrubs to the coldest regions of the United States. Known as the Lights series, it consists of azaleas that retain their heat tolerance but also exhibit extreme cold hardiness so that they can be grown almost anywhere in the country. ‘Northern Hi-Lights’ was released over 30 years ago but deserves much wider recognition for its dense clusters of white flowers, each of which has a brushstroke of yellow highlighting the top petal.

‘Chocolate Drop’ mountain azalea features fantastic foliage on a native favorite

Rhododendron canescens ‘Chocolate Drop’
Zones: 6–9
Size: 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide
Native range: Southeastern United States

This deciduous species, known commonly as Piedmont azalea or mountain azalea, grows along the southeastern coast and Piedmont region of the United States and is the most abundant native species of azalea in the wild. Plants usually have a somewhat open habit and thin branches, which allow the narrow, tubular flowers, which are white to pink and grow in loose clusters, to seemingly float along woodland edges.

‘Chocolate Drop’ is a recent breakthrough to the ranks of named selections of this species. New foliage emerges burgundy just as the white flowers with a blush of pink are at their peak. The foliage loses much of its color later in the season, becoming olive green as summer progresses.

Its skinny petals, long stamens, and vivid color give ‘Clyo Red’ a unique flair

Rhododendron x bakeri ‘Clyo Red’
Zones: 5–9
Size: 6 to 10 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide
Native range: Hybrid of native species

‘Clyo Red’ is a naturally occurring deciduous hybrid between the soft pink R. canescens and vivid yellow to orange-red R. flammeum of the Southeastern United States. It possesses deep pink flowers that pop in the landscape. Although originally considered a superior selection of R. canescens when it was found in the wild, its growth habit and foliage point to the hybrid nature of the plant. Either way, it is an outstanding addition to the woodland garden.

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| Azalea Plant Sources |

The following mail-order sources may offer some of the plants featured in this article:

• Colesville Nursery, Ashland, VA; 804-798-5472; colesvillenursery.com
• MrMaple, East Flat Rock, NC; 828-226-5684; mrmaple.com
• Rocky Knoll Farm, Springfield, OR; 503-389-0520; rockyknollfarm.com
• White Flower Farm, Litchfield, CT; 800-503-9624; whiteflowerfarm.com
• Wilson Bros. Gardens, McDonough, GA; 770-573-1778; wilsonbrosgardens.com
• Woodlanders Botanicals, Aiken, SC; 803-648-7522; woodlanders.net

Botanical Illustration by Jessica Daigle

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Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes

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Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs.

Growing hedges is a timeless way to add structure to your landscape

Hedges have been used for centuries to define space, create separation, and add privacy in landscapes. In contemporary gardens, which often blend formality with natural abundance, hedges offer a sense of permanence. Taller boundaries that divide outdoor rooms bring flow and mystery into the design equation, drawing visitors from space to space in anticipation.

Clipped, linear forms lend a soothing sense of formality to a design. The hedges seen above serve as counterpoints that contain what might otherwise feel like chaotic exuberance. They help the eye make sense of this space and are a visual reminder that this is a carefully curated scene.

Growing a hedge of any size will provide year-round interest and shelter for native fauna, particularly birds. With all of these benefits in mind, let’s get down to the nuts and bolts of preparation, installation, and care.

Give your hedge the best possible start with careful planning, site preparation, and planting

As you consider adding a new hedge, ask yourself what you want it to do. Will its primary function be to provide screening? Will it guide foot traffic through a space? Will it be clipped tightly, or will it have a natural, informal look? Will it be a mixed-species hedge, or will you be working with just one selection?

Choose the right plant to grow for your hedge

Choosing the best plants for your living boundary means finding the right match for your site and climate. If light or soil conditions vary across the length of the hedge, seek out adaptable species that will tolerate the full range of conditions reasonably well. Once you’ve decided on the plant material you’ll use, remove sod or other vegetation and prepare the planting bed as you would do for any other new garden.

Determine how many plants you need to grow a hedge

Calculate the number of plants needed to build your hedge, factoring in the ultimate size of the cultivar you are using. Large and fast-growing plants can be spaced farther apart and allowed to fill in, while varieties that take several years to reach full size will need closer spacing. Screens and formal hedges are typically spaced more closely to fill in densely, whereas natural or loose hedges may have wider spacing.

A good rule of thumb is that the spacing between plants is often about two-thirds of the intended height of the hedge. Using this guidance, a hedge that will be 6 feet tall will have plants spaced about 4 feet apart, and in a 12-foot-tall hedge, the plants will be spaced about 8 feet apart. Measure the length of your run, and divide that number by the spacing you’ve chosen. Round up to make sure you don’t fall short.

Follow the normal planting recommendations for your chosen trees or shrubs, keeping the spot where the trunk flares out into the root system at or slightly above the surrounding grade. If you are planting a long hedge, particularly with heavier balled and burlapped (B&B) material, it may be most efficient to excavate a planting trench with power equipment. Be sure to alleviate compaction caused by the equipment to the sides and bottom of the trench. Try not to excavate too deeply, and firmly tamp any backfill used to adjust planting depth. Completely remove metal baskets and burlap, since leaving these materials in place impedes healthy root growth.

If you are purchasing bare root plants, it is important to get them into the ground and watered as quickly as possible. Most bare root material is delivered and planted in early spring, before the plants break dormancy. Staking is important to keep them upright until new roots develop enough to stabilize the plant.

Immediately after planting, drench the soil thoroughly to eliminate air pockets and improve soil contact with roots. Top the soil with a 2-inch layer of shredded leaf mulch or finely ground bark mulch to conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature, reduce weeds, and gradually add organic matter in the root zone.

Keep new plants watered to help them get established

Keeping new transplants watered will be critically important during the first one to five years, depending on the size and type of plants you are using. Generally, the larger the plant is, the longer the establishment period will be. Consider adding a soaker hose or drip irrigation during planting to help ensure success. Depending on how much rain Mother Nature provides, water once a week for the first growing season, making sure to continue watering up until the ground freezes in late fall or early winter. If you choose species that are well adapted to your site condition, the plants will only need irrigation in times of deep drought once established.

Learn More: Planting Trees & Shrubs the Right Way

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Proper shaping ensures long-term success when growing hedges

It is important to batter, or taper, the sides of a hedge, making it slightly narrower at the top and wider at the base. This increases the amount of sunlight that reaches the bottom portion of the hedge, which could otherwise grow thin and defoliate in the shade of the upper branches.

To batter your hedge like a pro, set up some stakes, strings, and line levels to help you achieve crisp lines and a smooth taper (illustration above). Place four stakes at each end of a straight run. The two inner stakes will mark the narrower width at the top of the hedge, and the two outer stakes will mark the width at the base.

Run a string between each pair of inner stakes, placing it at the desired height of the hedge. Use a line level to make sure the top of the hedge is truly level; measuring the height from the ground to the top of each plant will yield an uneven line if the ground is not flat. Run two more strings between the stakes that mark the bottom outer corners. If you’re pruning a very long hedge, you can add intermediate stakes to break up the long run, double-checking the top string to ensure that it is level between stakes.

Trim the sides and top of the hedge carefully using either a power tool or hedge shears, stepping back periodically to assess your progress. Prune in light layers, gently rather than aggressively. You can always prune a little more, but there’s no way to put back what you have cut off.

If you are pruning a more informal hedge, or if you intend to rejuvenate or reduce the hedge in the near future, it is a good practice to strategically make a few deeper cuts to permit more light into the center of the plants and stimulate interior growth.

Learn More: How to Trim a Formal Hedge

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Regular maintenance will keep hedges healthy and tidy for years to come

How and when you prune your hedge will depend on the look you are trying to achieve and which plants you have chosen. Many hedges are trimmed in summer as the first flush of growth hardens off. Here in the Northeast, that’s usually in late June or early July. A second round of trimming often follows in late July or early August. Formal clipped hedges may require light shearing throughout the growing season, while informal hedges may require only a little annual shaping.

Helpful guidelines for growing hedges and keeping them maintained:

• Remove broken, dead, or diseased branches as soon as possible. This helps to keep your plants healthy. Sterilize tools after cutting diseased material.
• Maintain an existing shape with light pruning early in the growing season. Traditional hedging plants respond well to a trim in late spring as new growth begins to elongate, followed by another session in midsummer after the surge of early summer growth has tapered off.
• Limit the number of living branches cut late in the season. Heavy pruning in late summer or early fall can stimulate new growth that might not harden off before winter.
• Avoid cutting into old wood unless you are rejuvenating an overgrown shrub. There are a few species that will sprout new growth from old wood, but woody plants, including most conifers, generally will not.
• Rejuvenate or coppice deciduous hedges ahead of budbreak. Making big cuts in late winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant will cause less stress to the plant.
• Hand prune to encourage interior growth before or after new growth emerges. Selectively removing modestly sized branches rather than shearing tips will allow light penetration and promote new growth in the center of a hedge.Removing one-third of the new branch tips of pines (Pinus spp. and cvs., Zones 2–9), known as “candling,” can be done in late spring to early summer to promote denser growth.
• Prune flowering woody plants based on bloom time. Summer-flowering shrubs should be pruned in early spring, and spring-flowering species are best pruned just after they finish flowering.
• Keep large, fast-growing trees in bounds with a steady pruning routine. Once lower branches are lost they will not regrow, so it is important to batter the plants carefully when young. Longer hedges might need to be tackled over longer timelines, with a section pruned each year, for example. This works best with informal hedges or sections that are neatly divided by a corner, path, or structure.

Whether your goal is to make a quick privacy screen, define the boundaries of a space, or create dramatic and artistic forms, hedges offer endless possibilities. Understanding plant characteristics and growth, pruning requirements, and site conditions will get you off to a healthy start. Combine these with a dose of patience and creativity, and soon you’ll be enclosed with a vibrant living canvas.

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Joann Vieira is the director of public gardens and horticulture at The Trustees of Reservations in Massachusetts.

Watch Our Podcast: Let’s Argue About Plants

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Designing a Water-Wise Garden in Colorado’s Front Range

It isn’t easy gardening in Colorado’s Front Range. We get just 16 inches of annual precipitation, so it’s vital to have a water-wise garden with plants that can endure extended periods of dry weather in both summer and winter. At 5,200 feet above sea level, wide and sometimes very rapid fluctuations in air temperature wreak havoc on plant hardiness.

Sunshine is more intense at high elevations; plants that require full sun elsewhere in the country may not be able to survive without some shade here. Summer brings the risk of leaf-pummeling hail. But on the bright side, insects and diseases are usually not a problem, possibly because they can’t stand all of these harsh conditions.

You can understand why I hesitated to do very much with the landscape for the first 10 years after buying my house, and why designing and building the garden has been a gradual and ongoing process. But as it all began to take shape, I came to enjoy the challenge of helping plants reach their full potential in our semi-arid steppe climate. My garden will continue to evolve with each passing season, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. I’ve also learned some important lessons through the process of building a garden that conserves water but does not skimp on interest or impact.

 Learn More: See the Plant Lists for These Water-Wise Garden Ideas

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| GARDEN AT A GLANCE |

Where: Arvada, Colorado
Zone: 5b/6a
Size: Approximately 10,000 square feet
Age of the garden: 20 years
Challenges: Cold, dry winters and hot, arid summers; clay soil

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When siting plants in a water-wise garden, keep the big picture in mind

If you’re starting with a blank-slate landscape, choosing and planting trees will always be a good place to begin. It pays to carefully research the cultural needs and mature sizes of the trees you will be working with. Don’t be tempted by species that aren’t suitable for your site, or that will require more water or maintenance than you can manage. I make it my goal to locate each tree in a spot where it can reach its full size unimpeded.

In front of the house, a mix of water-wise evergreen and deciduous trees were some of the earliest additions, sited with their future size in mind. Almost immediately, the trees provided structure and screening between the front door and the street, and their maturing canopies have created sheltered spots where I can experiment with some treasured shade plants that wouldn’t be able to make it in more exposed locations.

Take advantage of a slope

Behind the house is a sloped hillside, which at first seemed like wasted space where it was impossible to keep the lawn happy. But once I started building planting beds in the spots that were hardest to mow, it became evident that a sloping garden is actually ideal for displaying plants (photo above). In the future, I don’t think I would consider buying a home on a flat lot.

Listen to Our Podcast: Let’s Argue About Plants!

On the slope, I made a concerted effort to keep taller trees and shrubs toward the perimeter, leaving sight lines open from the deck and house into the garden. Smaller plants are massed together in traditional mixed beds and rock gardens, balancing the visual weight of larger focal-point plants.

Dwarf conifers are scattered throughout the garden where they provide fantastic four-season interest and are impressively drought tolerant once established. I look for slower-growing cultivars like ‘St. Mary’s Broom’ blue spruce (Picea pungens ‘St. Mary’s Broom’, Zones 2–7, center left in the above photo). It is well worth the effort to seek out conifers with a variety of habits, being mindful not to include too many round evergreen balls or tall, narrow columns.

See the full plant lists for this water-wise garden design here

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| GOOD TO KNOW |

Make water conservation part of your everyday routine

Keeping water use to a minimum has become increasingly important to gardeners everywhere. If a stunning water-wise garden is possible in the arid West, it can be done where you are, too. Here are a few ideas to get started:

• Seek out regional natives.
  Upland species adapted to your local climate should be able to survive without supplemental water once established.
• Avoid watering during the hottest hours of the day.
  Early morning is best. If you use an irrigation system, make sure it is set up properly. Turn off automatic systems after it rains, and avoid using sprinklers that spray water high into the air, as this leads to increased evaporation.
• Add mulch to conserve soil moisture.
  Both wood and gravel mulch will conserve soil moisture and suppress weeds. Apply a layer that is 2 inches deep at most. Gravel that is too deep can make it harder to get new plants established, and an overly thick layer of wood mulch could lead to increased disease issues.
• Reduce or eliminate lawn areas.
  Consider converting remaining lawn to drought-tolerant varieties like Dog Tuff™ grass (Cynodon ‘PWIN04S’, Zones 5–10).

Consider the benefits of open space

I have intentionally kept the flat part of the backyard as a typical turf lawn (below), which serves as a nice transition from the deck to the back garden. It is about 20 feet deep and 60 feet wide, enough space for kids and dogs to play but small enough that I don’t complain too much about mowing.

In the sloped garden area, pea gravel pathways wind through the plantings, defining different areas and allowing access for maintenance and garden meandering. I like to keep shorter plantings close to the edges of pathways, with plants gradually increasing in stature moving inward toward the middle of the bed.

Mulch to conserve water

A layer of pea gravel roughly 1 inch deep is a resource-efficient way to keep weeds down and retain moisture in a low-water garden, and gravel doesn’t break down like typical wood mulch. I have never installed an irrigation system and have found that watering selectively by hand promotes water conservation. Rather than watering the entire area where a new plant was put in, I just water the plant. Weeding is done in early spring when small seedlings are first emerging, and likely won’t be necessary the rest of the year.

I have a passion for alpine plants, many of which are evergreen and provide excellent appeal all year. But alpines are generally small in stature and easily overwhelmed by surrounding plants. My solution is to allot ample space to grow large groups of these diminutive plants together in purpose-built beds that balance out the visual impact of larger trees, shrubs, and masses of perennials (photos below).

Rock and crevice gardens are focal points with tons of problem-solving potential

For years, I tried and mostly failed to grow alpine plants in the existing heavy clay soil, amended to a depth of about 8 inches. My success with alpine species improved dramatically when I started building rock and crevice gardens backfilled with a specialized soil mix. Some of these gardens are built on top of the existing soil, while others are kept lower. In the case of one crevice garden (above) I removed about 18 inches of soil, backfilling as the stones were set so their tops sit nearly flush with the surrounding grade.

Rock and crevice gardens offer great opportunities to create specific microclimates to suit the needs of particular plants. For example, one of my largest installations, constructed with Wyoming volcanic rock, is planted principally with xeric plants like ‘Electric Blue’ foothill penstemon (Penstemon heterophyllus ‘Electric Blue’, Zones 5–9). But I’ve also discovered that marginally hardy South African succulents do quite well when tucked up against a rock where they get sunshine and a little extra radiant heat throughout the year.

Learn More: How to Build a Crevice Garden

Add a rock garden

For a perpetually wet spot with especially terrible soil at the foot of the slope, I built a raised rock garden with very little soil incorporated. What was once a problem area where nothing would grow is now a focal point spotlighting some spectacular, hard-to-find species.

A gifted collection of plants that needed both shade and well-drained soil was the impetus for building a raised rock garden in the shade of a paper birch (Betula papyrifera, Zones 2–6, photo above). Now a group of fascinating new plants have a perfectly suited place to call home, and I’ve incorporated some wildlife-friendly features to make this shady retreat from the Denver sun even more inviting.
Whatever the challenges of your local climate and site may be, finding the right plants for a low-maintenance, water-wise design is a satisfying challenge. I hope that you can find a way to make your small corner of the earth a little more sustainable.

| TIP |

Create a Custom Soil Mix for Rock Gardens

When building a new rock or crevice garden, backfilling the planting pockets with the right growing medium ensures impeccable drainage, no matter how unsuitable the underlying soil may be.

The standard mix for the rock gardens seen above is roughly 2 parts topsoil, 1 part sand, and 1 part squeegee (tiny, rounded stones slightly larger than sand but finer than standard pea gravel). This formula can easily be tweaked and amended to perfectly suit the plants that will grow in it.

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Michael Barbour is a horticulturist and plant propagator based in Denver’s western suburbs.

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The Crevice Garden: How to make the perfect home for plants from rocky places

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A crevice garden replicates the environmental conditions of mountain tops, deserts, coastlines, and other exposed or rocky places on earth. These striking garden features provide perfect conditions for the plants native to these far-off places, bringing the cultivation of these precious gems within everybody’s reach.

Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes

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Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs.

Black and Decker 22-inch Cordless Hedge Trimmer

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Quick and easy to put into operation and is less noisy and lighter in weight than gas-powered hedge trimmers.
– 38 x 7 x 7 inches
– 6.9 pounds
– 1 Lithium Ion battery required (included)

Michael Barbour is a gifted plant propagator who offers a wide variety of steppe-adapted species to gardeners in Colorado’s Front Range and beyond. His home garden holds hundreds of horticultural treasures, including some locally native species and selections from regions with similar climates around the world. Among the many tough, drought-tolerant cultivars are a few favorites that receive a little more water and care. Michael has also assembled an impressive collection of dwarf conifers with varied forms, colors, and growth rates. The following plant lists offer a deeper dive into a xeric garden that is far from dry and boring. 

Learn More About Michael Barbour’s Water-Wise Garden

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Lush Layers of Tough, Low-Maintenance Plants

Plant list

1. ‘Waterperry Blue’ speedwell (Veronica ‘Waterperry Blue’, Zones 4–8) 
2. Orange Carpet^® hummingbird trumpet (Zauschneria garrettii ‘PWWG01S’, Zones 5–9) 
3. Perennial sunflower (Helianthus cv., Zones 4–9) 
4. Heuchera, red-flowered cultivar (Heuchera cv., Zones 4–9) 
5. Oakleaf mountain ash (Sorbus x hybrida, Zones 3–7) 
6. ‘Pendula’ Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Pendula’, Zones 3–8) 
7. Ivory Halo Tatarian dogwood (Cornus alba ‘Bailhalo’, Zones 3–7) 
8. Hardy geranium (Geranium cv., Zones 3–8) 
9. ‘Nidiformis’ Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Nidiformis’, Zones 3–7)

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Wide Gravel Pathways Link Beds Together 

Plant list

1. Moss phlox (Phlox subulata, Zones 3–9) 
2. Himalayan whorlflower (Morina longifolia, Zones 6–9) 
3. Red feathers (Echium amoenum, Zones 3–9) 
4. ‘Taylor’s Sunburst’ lodgepole pine (Pinus contorta ‘Taylor’s Sunburst’, Zones 4–8) 
5. ‘Pendula’ Nootka cypress (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis syn. Xanthocyparis nootkatensis ‘Pendula’, Zones 4–7) 
6. ‘Blue Shag’ Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Blue Shag’, Zones 3–8) 
7. ‘Tiffindell Magenta’ ice flower (Delosperma ‘Tiffindell’, Zones 5–9) 
8. Columbine (Aquilegia cv., Zones 3–9) 
9. ‘Penasco’ pinyon pine (Pinus edulis ‘Penasco’, Zones 5–8) 
10. ‘Olympica’ harebell (Campanula rotundifolia ‘Olympica’, Zones 3–6) 

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A Sloped Area Showcases Diverse Shapes and Forms

Plant list

1. ‘Cambridge’ geranium (Geranium × cantabrigiense ‘Cambridge’, Zones 5–8) 
2. ‘Blue Shag’ Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Blue Shag’, Zones 3–8) 
3. Beaked yucca (Yucca rostrata, Zones 6–11) 
4. ‘Argentea’ fountain butterfly bush (Buddleja alternifolia ‘Argentea’, Zones 4b–8) 
5. ‘Prairie Joy’ shrub rose (Rosa ‘Prairie Joy’, Zones 3–8) 
6. Silky wormwood (Artemisia pedemontana subsp. assoana, Zones 4–9) 
7. Blue mist penstemon (Penstemon virens, Zones 4–8) 
8. ‘Electric Blue’ foothill penstemon (Penstemon heterophyllus ‘Electric Blue’, Zones 5–9) 
9. ‘Prairie Jewel’ penstemon (Penstemon grandiflorus ‘Prairie Jewel’, Zones 3–9) 
10. ‘Black Prince’ Austrian pine (Pinus nigra ‘Black Prince’, Zones 4–8) 

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A Shady Area Is a Haven for Woodland Species

Plant list

1. Variegated sweet iris (Iris pallida ‘Variegata’, Zones 4–9) 
2. Crested gentian (Gentiana septemfida, Zones 4–7) 
3. ‘Tiny Monster’ hardy geranium (Geranium ‘Tiny Monster’, Zones 4–8) 
4. Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata cv., Zones 4–8) 
5. Tube clematis (Clematis heracleifolia, Zones 3–8) 
6. Flowering onion (Allium cv., Zones 5–7)
7. Paper birch (Betula papyrifera, Zones 2–6)
8. ‘Uncle Fogy’ jack pine (Pinus banksiana ‘Uncle Fogy’, Zones 2–7)
9. ‘Purple Fountain’ beech (Fagus sylvatica ‘Purple Fountain’, Zones 4–7) 

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Areas of Fine Detail Invite Daily Exploration

Plant list

1. ‘Blue Shag’ Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus ‘Blue Shag’, Zones 3–8)
2. Blue grassy bells (Edraianthus graminifolius, Zones 4–9)
3. Ukrainian pink (Dianthus squarrosus, Zones 4–9)
4. Yellow skullcap (Scutellaria orientalis, Zones 5–8)
5. ‘Tiffindell’ ice plant (Delosperma ‘Tiffindell’, Zones 5–9)
6. Horned rampion (Phyteuma scheuchzeri, Zones 5–8)
7. Golden aster (Heterotheca jonesii, Zones 5–8)
8. ‘Thompson Brothers Broom’ pinyon pine (Pinus edulis ‘Thompson Brothers Broom’, Zones 5–8)
9. Spanish sandwort (Arenaria alfacarensis, Zones 5–9)
10. Velebit degenia (Degenia velebitica, Zones 5–7)
11. Prickly thrift (Acantholimon sarytavicum, Zones 4–8)
12. ‘Anton Fahndrich’ rock daphne (Daphne × susannae ‘Anton Fahndrich’, Zones 5–9)

 

Related Articles:
Learn more about how this garden was designed here.
See more planting plans here
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DeWalt Variable-Speed Cordless Reciprocating Saw

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You can fit a variety of blades to this saw to cut fallen branches or prune larger limbs from trees in a pinch. It’s fast, tough, easy to use, and extremely versatile.
– 18.31 x 6.13 x 4 inches
– 1-1/8-inch stroke length
– Variable speed trigger with 0-3000 spm

Buffalo-Style Gardens: Create a Quirky, One-of-a-Kind Private Garden with Eye-Catching Designs

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Buffalo-Style Gardens is a one-of-a-kind, offbeat garden design book that showcases the wildly inventive gardens and gardeners of Buffalo – and offers readers “the best of the best” ideas to use in their own small-space gardens.

Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden, Revised and Updated Second Edition: A Natural Approach to Pest Control

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This revised and updated edition of Jessica Walliser’s award-winning Attracting Beneficial Bugs to Your Garden offers a valuable and science-backed plan for bringing balance back to the garden. With this indispensable gardening reference—now updated with new research, insights, and voices—learn how to create a healthy, balanced, and diverse garden capable of supporting a hard-working crew of beneficial pest-eating insects and eliminate the need for synthetic chemical pesticides.

Soil scientists have only recently started to comprehensively understand the extraordinary web of life that inhabits healthy, undisturbed soil. We now know that plant roots, fungi, and countless soil-dwelling organisms form a vital underground ecosystem that builds and sustains soil structure over time. So regardless of a soil’s physical and chemical composition, its makeup and overall health can almost always be improved by adding living plants, supplementing organic matter, minimizing disturbance, and allowing the underground community to heal and rebuild itself. However, some soil health challenges call for more specific solutions. Here are a few examples of stressful situations that could occur in your garden, and the steps you can take to remedy them.

Alleviating compaction will help improve air and water movement

Pores are tiny, interconnected pathways between soil aggregates that allow air and water to move freely, sustaining plant roots and soil life. Soil with good structure typically contains about 50 percent pore space. Compressing or overworking soil, particularly when it is wet, can disrupt and destroy pores, leading to slow drainage and reduced soil respiration. Clay soil is especially vulnerable.

Surface compaction is usually caused by foot or vehicle traffic, while subsurface compaction from cultivation often occurs just below plowing depth. In some regions, naturally compacted subsoil layers formed by glacial activity or other geological events are found relatively close to the surface. Regardless of the cause, the effects of soil compaction on plant health are worsened if the soil remains wet for extended periods. Plants growing in dense, waterlogged soil experience low nutrient availability, poor root development, increased susceptibility to root diseases, and stunted growth.

Avoiding unnecessary soil disturbance, particularly tilling, is the best way to prevent compaction. For seriously compacted soil, a mechanical soil-loosening tool like a broad fork or aerator can be useful for opening up some channels to allow water to drain and air to reach plant roots. Growing cover crops can be an effective strategy for reducing surface compaction, while deep-rooted cover crops such as daikon radish are sometimes useful for relieving subsoil compaction.

When soil compression occurs in the root zones of trees, shrubs, and perennials, it is often not possible to aerate the soil, incorporate cover crops, or replace the plantings. Fortunately, top-dressing the soil surface with compost or organic mulch will usually be sufficient to restore and improve structure. To prevent tree roots from being smothered, keep mulch away from trunks and do not apply a layer more than 3 inches deep.

Design roadside plantings to tolerate heat and salt

There’s a reason landscape professionals call a planting area next to a road or sidewalk the “hellstrip.” In northern climates, salt applied to roadways inevitably ends up in these beds, causing decreased fertility, poor drainage, and increased erosion. Summer heat can also become a serious threat to curbside plants. Most species do best when the soil temperature is under 90°F, and the majority prefer much lower temperatures. Soil that is too hot can slow or stop root growth, decrease flowering, or cause permanent wilting of leaves.

Properly preparing roadside soil will greatly improve the health and longevity of plantings. Spring rains—or deep, deliberate watering—can wash salts out of the soil, significantly reducing their impact on plants and soil organisms. Well-drained soil can handle the amount of flushing a roadside planting generally requires, and it may be worth building a raised bed with amended soil to improve drainage. Incorporating mulch will help keep the root zone cool while increasing natural drainage and organic matter within the soil matrix. Choosing climate-appropriate plants and trees that thrive under curbside conditions will improve your chances for success.

Repairing heavily disturbed soil takes time and patience

Establishing plants in a highly disturbed area, such as a recent construction zone, will require much more planning and effort than planting in undisturbed soil. Contractors frequently remove topsoil with heavy equipment, compacting the subsoil (photo p. 22). After construction, it is important to ensure that the subsoil is loosened before improved topsoil is installed across the site.

To develop a planting plan following new construction, the first step should be to collect several soil samples from the areas where you wish to garden, have them tested, and address any deficiencies identified in the soil test report before planting. An agricultural professional or extension agent can help determine what types of soil improvements may be needed, and which plant species will do best in your soil.

Restoring organic matter to disturbed soil increases drainage and moisture retention, offers a food source for soil life, provides nutrients for plants, and protects the surface of the soil from erosion and extreme heat. Incorporating different types of organic matter before planting will provide a strong source of energy for plants and the life that inhabits the rhizosphere (root zone). Because organic matter does not bind to sand particles as readily as it does with clay or silt, you’ll generally need more mulch, compost, or manure to improve nutrient availability in loose, sandy soil.

Another method for improving soil in established gardens is planting a living mulch. Living mulches are plants that create a protective surface over the soil and help address issues in the soil through their deep roots and natural addition of organic matter. It is best to choose native plants that grow easily in your climate, or non-invasive species that thrive in your area. These could include ground covers or wildflowers.

While there are methods available for improving soil in challenging situations, taking care to avoid soil issues before they start is always the preferred approach.

 

 

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Kirsten Kurtz is assistant director of the Cornell University Soil Health Laboratory in Ithaca, New York.

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Gardena 3103 Combisystem 12-Inch To 20-Inch Adjustable Metal Fan Rake Head

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With adjustable tine spacing: suitable for raking coarse and fine material. Flexible, zinc-plated spring-steel prongs. Working width adjustable from 12-20 inches. Sold as head only, handle sold separately.

Corona® Multi-Purpose Metal Mini Garden Shovel

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Longer Service Life: The blade of this round small shovel is made of carbon steel, which can effectively improve the hardness by high temperature quenching, and the surface has anti-rust coating to avoid rusting. In the process of use when encountering hard objects will not bend and deformation.
Sturdy Structure: The small garden shovel with D-handle, ergonomically designed grip can increase the grip of the hand when using, the handle is made of strong fiberglass, will not bend and break under heavy pressure. Quick Digging: Well-made digging shovel has a sharp blade, and the round shovel head is designed to easily penetrate the soil and cut quickly while digging to enhance your work efficiency.

Ashman Garden Cultivator (1Pack)

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Solid Build—The Ashman Garden Cultivator/Tiller is strong in construction so that it can withstand heavy work in the garden. The blade and the shaft are coupled well for deep digging and uprooting the soil from the depths. It serves the purpose of cultivation very well. Create a blooming crop and watch it blossom and reap the benefits. Sharpened Fine piercing Blade—The blades are razor sharp and are made to pierce into any kind of soil and to serve digging, loosening soil, and weeding. The blades are rust-proof and have chip-resistant coating enhancing durability. Use it to control weeds, bury crop residue in the soil, and for preparing a proper seed bed.
High-Quality Design—The thoughtful design incorporated to shape the blades in L shape helps dig deep into the soil and rip it from beneath for cultivation. This helps a lot when weeding. Dig well and plant well. The handle is made to fit in the hand well and can be held tightly to apply push and pull forces effectively. Practical Utility—The garden cultivator is made with “practical utility” as the core of its purpose. It serves all the necessary purposes when gardening. Helps mix soil, which will loosen it up, providing more nutrients for the crops.

First gardens are always an exercise in discovery. Figuring out your design aesthetic and what you want out of a landscape is a process that happens over time. Like most new gardeners, when I started creating a garden at my southeastern Wisconsin home near the shore of Lake Michigan, I didn’t get it right the first time or even the second time. In addition to the challenge of finding the right mix of plants, I was paralyzed by the pressure of choosing a design style that I would want to live with for years to come.

As my interest in horticulture grew, I immersed myself in gardens, visiting them and studying them in books and magazines. It seemed that every space brought new inspiration that fought with other ideas. So I decided to stop limiting myself to one style. I didn’t need my entire yard to be cut from the same cloth. More garden areas would be established over time, and they could incorporate disparate design aesthetics if I wanted.

The problem, of course, is that the property—an acre and a third in total—is still small enough that you can view it all at one time, so the varied styles needed to make sense together. More than that, I needed to be able to care for everything.
The solution was to divide the property into three separate maintenance areas.Keep the Neediest Plants Close at Hand

My plan, that was formed as new garden areas were created over the course of two decades, was based both on practicality and the feeling I wanted in each spot. Long winters here in Wisconsin elicit a desire to pack in as much punch as possible during the short growing season. And I crave nonstop color and flowers, particularly in the areas we frequent the most. These beds and borders fall into what I call Maintenance Area 1, which requires the most care.

The patio and deck that flank the house—the first garden area I developed and the one that took a few tries to get right—are spaces where we entertain guests and enjoy summer cocktail hours but also where we start and end each day. This high-visibility spot was therefore perfect for a riot of eye-catching color that, admittedly, hovers on the edge of chaos.

I call on a changing cast of annuals and tropicals to fill in around the shrubs and perennials that create the framework of the patio and deck beds. These plants require a good amount of tending in the form of watering, fertilizing, deadheading, and occasional pruning. Growing these high-maintenance plants in a place where I can’t help but notice them is not just about maximizing what they have to offer. It also helps me to stay on top of the routine care they require. Basically it’s the opposite of “out of sight, out of mind”: A plant in need of attention is hard to miss when you pass it daily.

Dozens of dahlias (Dahlia spp. and cvs., Zones 8–11) are responsible for a decent amount of the mid to late summer color in these beds. In general, the varieties I grow are short enough to require only minimal staking, but frequent deadheading is needed along with occasional fertilizing. Featured plants that support the dahlia show for the entire growing season tend to change every year, satisfying a compelling need to experiment with growing new plants in different combinations. Repetition helps bring order to an admittedly busy border, so planting the front edge with multiples of a single bold plant like ‘Mila’ pineapple (Ananas ‘Mila’, Zones 8–10), ‘Navajo Princess’ mangave (Mangave ‘Navajo Princess’, Zones 9–11), or ‘Herbalea Wild Magic’ basil (Ocimum basilicum ‘Herbalea Wild Magic’, annual) visually calms the space. A variety of annuals are woven throughout the border, including several forms of chartreuse flowering tobacco (Nicotiana spp. and cvs., Zones 10–11) that help to cool down the color scheme and provide cohesion too.

Some large containers add to the display, all within easy reach of a hose, a key component of this high-maintenance area. Only a skinny bed between the patio and the house (as well as the custom window box) have drip irrigation on a timer; everything else is hand-watered as needed. After getting established, the in-ground plantings only need water when it’s particularly dry, and because they’re big, the containers typically don’t need a daily drink until late summer.

Create a Transition Space with Moderate Maintenance

My desire for a modern cottage-style garden full of color is satiated in the patio borders, which is a good thing because it would be nearly impossible to maintain any additional spaces planted in this way. But adjacent spots are still visible from the house, so I needed a transitional space that I dubbed Maintenance Area 2. My goal for this middle ground was to strike a balance between the high-maintenance borders and the rest of the garden in a subtle way, so that you can walk through the landscape without noticing a line of demarcation. And with that comes a reduction in upkeep.

Perennials, which I rely on heavily throughout the entire landscape, are more prominent in these areas, where stone paths and lawn carry you from the outdoor living area to other parts of the yard. I’m not afraid to bring in perennials that might need a bit more attention, because we pass through these areas often. A variety of veronicas (Veronica spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9), for example, are planted along the frequently traveled path to the garage and provide nearly nonstop flowers. They do need to be sheared back after the first bloom and deadheaded throughout summer. A large swath of lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis ‘Thriller’, Zones 3–9) is a favorite of mine, both for its scalloped, dew-catching foliage but also for the cloud of chartreuse flowers it produces in early summer. I cut the whole plant back after it flowers, and within two weeks, fresh new foliage that will look good for the rest of the season emerges. Interspersed within these perennials are elements of the patio garden. Dahlias are dotted throughout, and other less-needy flowering annuals—some that readily reseed—intermingle with catmint (Nepeta × faassenii and cvs., Zones 4–9) and additional workhorse perennials. This provides a thread of cohesiveness among all the beds and borders.

I’ve also incorporated more shrubs and trees in this transitional maintenance area, including colorful hydrangeas, deciduous gems with vibrant foliage, and even evergreens for interest during the long, gray winters. In some cases, these trees—along with actual garden trellises—are called into service as support for my clematis (Clematis spp. and cvs., Zones 4–9) collection. The vines help soften the transition between maintenance areas by incorporating a vertical floral element that references the patio garden. A partial-shade border on the other side of the house is another take on the mid-maintenance part of the garden. Chockablock with hostas, ferns, Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra and cvs., Zones 5–9), and more, the care and moisture needs here are reduced by the judicious use of ground covers, which eliminate weed competition and the need for mulching. Deadheading or, in the case of some hostas, removing flower stalks and applying deer repellent, make up most of the season-long care.

The Farther You Walk, the Lower the Maintenance

I never intended to continue creating gardens in the far reaches of the yard, but when dozens of ash trees (Fraxinus pennsylvanica, Zones 3–9) succumbed to borer damage over several years, the landscape changed permanently. It became clear that my options were to create more garden spaces, or fight aggressive and unwanted species in newly sun-filled areas. I didn’t want any more high-maintenance gardens, but I did have a growing love of natural garden design. A free-flowing border of mostly tough perennials and showy grasses was exactly what I craved for this new place, eventually coined Maintenance Area 3. Thankfully the transitional beds I’d already established (in Area 2) made it easy to add this sustainable style into the mix, even though it has little in common with the colorful, modern cottage scheme by the house.

In addition to opening up an entirely new palette of plants to work with—a blessing for an admitted plant lover with collector tendencies—the new garden area on the far west side of the property was a good test of the design skills I’d been honing over many years. Positioned at the driveway entrance with a native prairie within view, this area is also a way to gradually introduce visitors to what lies beyond. The bar for plants in this area is high. They need to be drought tolerant after establishment because several hoses have to be connected to reach the spot; devoid of a need for any amount of coddling, including deadheading or staking; and very deer resistant, as the neighborhood herd routinely saunters down the road just feet away.

Many native plants and nativars—Culver’s root (Veronicastrum virginicum, Zones 3–8), coneflowers (Echinacea spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9), and baptisia (Baptisia australis and cvs., Zones 4–9), to name a few—fit the brief. Select grasses and other tough nonnative plants including ‘Montrose White’ calamint (Calamintha nepeta ssp. nepeta ‘Montrose White’, Zones 5–7) and short-stalked catmint (Nepeta subsessilis, Zones 4–9) are perfect here too (photos p. 35). As with other areas of the garden, shrubs, both native and ornamental, play an important role in creating structure and height that helps block the view of the road. In addition, I bring in a few of the easy-care annuals that are dotted throughout the rest of garden, including flowering tobacco. The chartreuse flowers help carry your eye through the entire expanse of the yard, again making what might otherwise feel detached seem cohesive.

Most of the care in Maintenance Area 3 happens in spring, with an annual chop and drop of perennials left standing for winter and a few aggressive weeding sessions. Although it was planted about five years ago, weed seeds that blow in can create a problem. But once the bulk of the interlopers have been dealt with, I can walk away from this part of the garden for most of the year, with only occasional tidying up.

One of the first questions people ask themselves when they create a garden is what design style speaks to them. I realized I could never be pigeonholed into choosing just one aesthetic, and trying to limit myself was preventing me from having my dream. It turns out that with a practical approach to garden maintenance, I really could have it all in just one yard.

 

 

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Erin L. Schanen is a lifelong gardener who chronicles her journey through “The Impatient Gardener” blog and YouTube channel. She lives and gardens in southeastern Wisconsin.

Find out what is wrong with your azalea

It can be frustrating when a prized shrub starts flagging and you don’t know what is wrong with your azalea. There are multiple cultural, pest, and disease issues that can cause similar-appearing symptoms in azaleas. Here are some of the most common culprits behind poor performance, how to spot them, and how to treat them.

Read More: Azaleas for Every Landscape

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Symptoms of Common Azalea Problems 

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The leaves are getting brown spots and curling up. Some stems are dying as well.

This probably means your plant has root rot (Phytophthora) due to excess water and poor drainage, and options to save the plant are limited. You can try pruning off the affected areas and attempt to rectify growing conditions by transplanting the shrub elsewhere. Even an azalea that has thrived for years can be affected by root rot, especially if the conditions around it have changed over time.

Trying to treat this soil-borne fungus is likely futile, and your best bet is to remove the shrub entirely and plant something that is more tolerant of wet feet. Azaleas want to be high and dry, with well-drained soil to prevent the roots from staying saturated where fungi can proliferate.

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There are tiny white dots all over the leaves, making the whole plant look bleached.

Azalea lace bugs (Stephanitis pyrioides) are attacking your plant and leaving white stippling to show where they’ve sucked the sap from the foliage. These are tough insects to control even with chemical solutions. Sometimes there will be a very bad outbreak but predatory wasps will bring the population back under control.

Unfortunately, the affected leaves will not recover their green hues, and evergreen species will retain those ugly leaves for multiple seasons. Insecticidal soaps can be effective against the young larvae, which will be on the underside of the leaves, but won’t kill the eggs that are inserted into the leaf tissue itself. If you want to try something harsher, talk to your local extension agent or someone knowledgeable at a local garden center for recommendations.

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The leaves of my azalea are turning yellow.

Yellow leaves on an azalea are usually due to iron deficiency. In high pH (alkaline) soils, iron is so tightly bound to the soil particles that it becomes unavailable to the plant. To rectify this, use a fertilizer made especially for evergreens or add iron sulfate to help acidify the soil.

Learn More: Four Things to Know About Soil pH

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Older leaves on my evergreen azalea are looking pale and sickly, and I can see some small webbing.

Southern red mites (Oligonychus ilicis) are likely attacking your plants. These little mites do most of their feeding on older leaves in spring and fall. Insecticidal soap or a horticultural oil are effective controls during this time. The undersides of the leaves and interior of the plants must be well sprayed.

Other products specifically labeled for mites on azaleas or rhododendrons can also be used to treat red spider mites, but a thorough blasting with a high-pressure hose is often enough to knock their populations back.

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My azalea disappeared to a nub overnight!

Deer blight is to blame. Unfortunately, this is a common problem for azaleas and can be hard to manage without a 12-foot-tall fence. There are various deterrents to keep deer away, but their effectiveness varies by location and usually decreases over time.

If a deer has severely damaged your azalea, don’t worry; it should grow back just fine. You can trim the plant to even it out and remove bare stubs of branches back to a leaf node. Otherwise, leave it to grow out naturally. The plant will usually rebound as a fuller, denser shrub if you can protect it from future deer browsing.

Learn More: Deer-Proof Garden Design for Dry Shade

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What is causing the black spots on my azalea’s leaves?

There are various fungal pathogens like leaf and twig blights, rust, and powdery mildew that can affect azaleas to some extent or another, producing black spots on foliage. Most of these issues occur when the leaves of the plants stay wet for too long. Pruning out diseased stems and providing better air circulation and more sunlight will generally take care of these issues.

Learn More:
Everything You Need to Know to Identify, Treat and Prevent Plant Disease
Check Out Our Podcast: Let’s Argue About Plants 
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Fine Gardening Recommended Products

Dramm 17050 50′ ColorStorm 1/2″ Standard Soaker Hose

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– Provides sufficient amounts of water to the garden without the hassle of hand watering
– Conveniently waters garden and beds
– 50 ft. by 1/2 inch diameter made from recycled material; lifetime guarantee
– Made in the USA

Bonide Captain Jack’s Neem Oil, 32 oz Ready-to-Use Spray, Multi-Purpose Fungicide, Insecticide and Miticide for Organic Gardening

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MULTI-PURPOSE BUG KILLER—Bonide Neem Oil is a perfect pest control solution for any garden dealing with mites, flies, mildew, and more. This product is a three-in-one fungicide, miticide, and insecticide. READY TO USE—This product is conveniently ready to use when it arrives. The spray nozzle makes this product easy to deploy and can even be used up to the day of harvest. KILLS ALL STAGES OF INSECTS—Bonide’s 3-in-1 Neem Oil is great because it kills the egg, larvae, and adult stages of insects while also preventing the fungal attack of plant tissues. DORMANT SPRAY—In addition to being useful for ridding your garden of insects and other pests, this Neem oil makes a great dormant spray to help protect your plants throughout all seasons. ORGANIC GARDENING—Derived from the Neem seed, our product is great for use on roses, flowers, vegetables, fruits, herbs, indoor houseplants, trees and shrubs. It’s approved for organic gardening.

Lee Valley Mini Garden Shear Set

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These shears have a distinctive finger rest that not only aids grip but allows greater freedom of movement than a conventional handle design. They have a durable powder-coat finish to resist rust and wear, and a simple clasp that locks the spring-action stainless-steel blades closed. The set includes one pair of round-nose shears measuring 5 1/2″ overall with 1″ blades for cutting stems up to 3/8″ in diameter, and one pair of 6 1/2″ needle-nose shears with 2″ fine-tip blades for precise work.

Hi GPODers and Happy New Year’s Eve!

To wrap up this year I wanted to celebrate some gardens that make this season so special. Inspired by Carol Verhake’s gorgeous submission of fresh snow in her garden (Fresh Snow in Carol’s Pennsylvania Garden), I dug into the Garden Photo of the Day archive to find some fabulous winter garden photos that show how lights and dazzling decor are not needed for an exciting late-season landscape.

January in Carol’s Garden

We’re kicking it off with the queen of the cold season herself, Carol Verhake in Berwyn, Pennsylvania. Carol has shared some gorgeous photos of her garden coated in snow, but her landscape is also filled with plants that reach their peak in winter and put on a spectacular performance with or without the white stuff.

‘Amethyst’ witch hazel (Hamamelis ‘Amethyst’, Zones 5–8) is a beautiful shrub with reddish flower. The long, narrow petals open on warm days and curl up on the colder ones. Witch hazels are one of the best winter-flowering shrubs, even in climates with very cold, snowy winters.

Celebrating Winter Beauty

Next up we head to Wellesley, Massachusetts for the incredible shapes and patterns in Barbara Owen’s winter garden. Her space is another that highlights the additional beauty a layer of snow can bring to a winter landscape.

The trees outlined with delicate lines of snow

Mid-Winter in Lynne’s New Zealand Garden

Switching gears, the winter garden of Lynne Leslie’s in Wellington, New Zealand emerges when gardens in the Northern Hemisphere are at their summer peak. Along with the winter season falling during a different time of year, her garden features a unique array of plants throughout its “down” time.

Another winter favourite is flame vine (Pyrostegia venusta, Zones 9–11). It grows so rapidly that I must cut it back hard after flowering. Great for picking and such a bright light in the garden.

Winter Favorites

I’m sure plenty of readers dream of tropical winters (or potentially escape cold climates for sunnier weather down south), but other readers dream of snowy days from their warm-weather locations. Beth Tucker, who currently lives in Waxhaw, North Carolina, shared photos of winter from her previous home in Franklin Lakes, New Jersey.

My gnarled hazel, Harry Lauder’s walking stick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’, Zones 3–9), after a snow. I loved it best in the winter when you could really see the shape.

Winter Interest in Jay’s Garden

Conifers are some of the most colorful stars in a winter landscape, and Jay Sifford’s garden in North Carolina is a masterclass in colorful trees and shrubs. The award-winning landscape designer creates gardens that dazzle in every season, but his home landscape is one I always circle back to this time of year.

One of my favorite parts of the garden, particularly in winter, is this hillside filled with conifers, heaths, and heathers. This view, taken from my living room window, shows the scrim effect of the ‘Karl Foerster’ feather reed grass (Calamagrostis × acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’, Zones 5–9) seed heads that I’ve planted as part of my foundation planting.

Winter Beauty in Bonnie’s Garden

Of course, conifers aren’t the only foliage plants that show off when weather gets cool. Bonnie Plikaytis in north Georgia has a wonderful mix of evergreens in her winter garden that provide structure and color, as well as some deciduous plants that keep providing interest when other leaves have already dropped.

Sometimes winter interest doesn’t come from an evergreen at all. The dark burgundy color of the large leaves of this oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Ruby Slippers’, Zones 5–9) certainly holds one’s attention. (Note that this shrub has grown much larger than the predicted size!) The photo shows a Southgate^® Grace™ rhododendron (Rhododendron ‘Elizabeth Ard’, Zones 6–9) in the foreground and a Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia, Zones 5–9) to the side.

Cleo’s Washington Garden in Winter

A more recent submission (from February of this year) shows that there really is no limit to the beauty your can create in a winter landscape. Cleo Raulerson in Bellevue, Washington has shared her garden through the seasons, so it was absolutely no surprise that her winter landscape still displayed layers and layers of interest.

Layers on a garden bank: red berries of rockspray cotoneaster (Cotoneaster horizontalis, Zones 5–7); soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum, Zones 6–8); and ‘Speedy Silver Rose’ cyclamen (Cyclamen hederifolium ‘Speedy Silver Rose’, Zones 5–9) tucked in among mossy boulders.

Snow in Carla’s Garden

One last celebration of snow comes from Carla Zambelli Mudry in Malvern, Pennsylvania. Carla’s woodland landscape is full of interest thanks to a wide range of mature trees and shrubs, but her winter landscape also highlights the importance of art for added interest when flowers and other garden elements are lacking.

Carla’s owl sculpture, carved from the stump of a tree, looks beautiful every day of the year but is especially magical in the snow.

Margot’s Winter Garden

When the ground hasn’t yet thawed, containers can add wonderful splashes of color to winter gardens. This colorful creation from Margot Navarre in Bellevue, Washington was a great prelude to the snowdrops, cyclamens, crocus, and hellebores that flood her landscape in late winter and the earliest days of spring.

Cyclamen coum (winter cyclamen, Zones 5–8) has beautiful leaves and it blooms in late winter to early spring. Leaves range from solid silver to complex patterns of silver and green, and flowers range from white to dark pink. Here, two plants show off in a container so you can easily get up close to appreciate the detail of their foliage and flowers.

Cherry’s Fresh Winter Wreaths and Swags

Lastly, we can’t talk about winter without talking about the decor, and Cherry Ong in Richmond, British Columbia takes wreath making to the next level. Cherry has sent many spectacular designs over the years so it was nearly impossible to pick just one to showcase. This silvery blue creation is just one of many favorites.

Dark and elegant wreath for a friend who loves horses.

Ingredients:

• Laurustinus viburnum (Viburnum tinus, Zones 5–7) berries
• Silver dollar eucalyptus (Eucalyptus cinerea, Zones 8–11)
• Silver Bell eucalyptus pods
• Black velvet ribbon
• Ornament of your choice – my choice for this gift was a cowboy boot

Thank you to all of the contributors who have shared their winter gardens over the years (featured here, or not), and thank you to all of the gardeners who have shared their gorgeous gardens this year. I hope you all had a great 2025, and if the year brought its fair share of struggles then I hope that 2026 brings you a little bit more peace and positivity.

Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!

 

We want to see YOUR garden!

Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!

To submit, fill out the Garden Photo of the Day Submission Form.

You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

Do you receive the GPOD by email yet? Sign up here

Fine Gardening Recommended Products

SHOWA Atlas 370B Nitrile Palm Coating Gloves, Black, Medium (Pack of 12 Pairs)

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Lightweight and close-fitting for excellent dexterity. Machine washable. Breathable back of hand to reduce perspiration. Designed for easy movement and continuous wear. Ideal for aerospace, assembly, automotive, construction, final fix, gardening, manufacturing, operating machinery, packaging, precision handling, tiling, warehousing.

The Nature of Oaks: The Rich Ecology of Our Most Essential Native Trees

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The Nature of Oaks reveals what is going on in oak trees month by month, highlighting the seasonal cycles of life, death, and renewal. From woodpeckers who collect and store hundreds of acorns for sustenance to the beauty of jewel caterpillars, Doug Tallamy illuminates and celebrates the wonders that occur right in our own backyards. He also shares practical advice about how to plant and care for an oak, along with information about the best oak species for your area.

Spring is the season of fresh starts in the garden—and the perfect time to invest in tools, plants, and ideas that help everything grow stronger and more beautifully. This Spring Gardener’s Buyer’s Guide has been curated with the help of our trusted sponsors, whose products and expertise support gardeners at every stage, from first planting to full bloom.

Inside, you’ll find innovative solutions, time-tested essentials, and inspiring additions designed to make gardening more rewarding, efficient, and enjoyable this season. Whether you’re refreshing containers, improving soil health, planning new beds, or upgrading your equipment, these featured brands offer quality and reliability you can count on.

We invite you to explore the guide, discover new favorites, and support the sponsors who help make this resource possible—so you can get back to what matters most: growing a garden you love.

Rent Mason Bees

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Pollinate Your Garden & Fruit Trees with Mason Bees!

Mason bees are fast becoming the new bee to host in your yard. Known as Mother Nature’s premier pollinators, they effortlessly pollinate 95% of everything they touch. When you join our solitary bee team as a host, you release bees and rent nesting blocks. Renting a kit from Rent Mason Bees gives gardeners the benefits of pollination without having to do the annual
maintenance work, ­because we do all the cleaning and winter storage for you. To learn more, visit our website: rentmasonbees.com.

• Emerge in spring: Mason bees hibernate in a cocoon all winter long and emerge in spring when temperatures reach 55°F.
• Belly floppers: Mason bees belly flop onto blossoms and collect pollen all over their body hairs.
• Incredible pollinators: Mason bees are covered in loose pollen that enables them to pollinate 95% of everything they land on. They can visit 2,000 blossoms a day.
• Solitary bees: Mason bees live and work alone. All females lay their own eggs, gather their own food, and find their own nests. With no queen to protect, they are nonaggressive.
• We do all the maintenance for you: Solitary bees need annual maintenance in the fall to remove harmful predators. When you rent, we’ll take care of the cleaning for you.

Source: rentmasonbees.com

Price: $85

 

Bluestone Perennials

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New Varieties for 2026

Hydrangea

Let’s Dance^® Loveable

The 2026 Hydrangea of the Year! A reliable show-stopper for any garden, Let’s Dance^® Loveable hydrangea lives up to its charming name. This compact variety produces waves of deeply pigmented blooms throughout the growing season, with flower heads transitioning from vibrant pink to rich royal purple, depending on soil pH conditions. Blooms dependably on both old and new wood, ensuring a spectacular display even after harsh winters. Attractive dark green foliage transforms into striking burgundy hues in autumn, extending the plant’s seasonal interest.

Source: bluestoneperennials.com/HYLO

Astilbe

‘Red Drumset’

This plant transforms any shady corner. The feathery, bright red plumes of ‘Red Drumset’ astilbe will brighten up any dark spot in your garden. This long-living perennial thrives in moisture-rich environments, pairing effortlessly with other shade-loving plants such as hostas, ferns, lobelia, or heuchera. Its airy, lush green foliage provides a vibrant backdrop that lasts through fall. The showy flowers are perfect for cutting, whether in fresh arrangements or dried, as the spent flowers and seed heads deliver ornamental appeal throughout the fall and winter.

Source: bluestoneperennials.com/ASRD

 

Rudbeckia

‘Treasure Trove’

Enjoy waves of golden blooms. This cheerful, long-blooming perennial displays waves of color from summer through fall. ‘Treasure Trove’ black-eyed Susan produces masses of large, golden yellow, star-shaped flowers with distinctive dark brown centers that completely cover its well-branched form. The large, disease-resistant foliage stays fresh and attractive throughout the growing season, making it an excellent low-maintenance choice for borders and meadow gardens. Pollinators flock to the flowers, while birds feast on the seed heads in fall. It’s a North American native that delivers reliable color and easy care.

Source: bluestoneperennials.com/RUTT

 

Phyllom BioProducts

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Natural. Effective. Targeted. Discovered and developed by a team of experts

Over a span of 15 years, Phyllom BioProducts’ patented strain of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is the first bioinsecticide powerful enough to effectively control susceptible beetles, weevils, borers, and grubs. And unlike the chemical products, Phyllom’s products do not pose a risk to nontarget beneficial insects such as earthworms and ladybugs or to pollinators such as bees and butterflies. That makes Phyllom BioProducts the new standard for excellent performance and safety. You can now achieve the same high level of control as with chemical insecticides, without doing harm to the natural ecosystem in your yard.

beetleGONE!^® tlc

Use this spray for highly effective organic control of adult beetles, weevils, and borers without harming bees, butterflies, or ladybugs. Target the pest, not the rest!

This product is for organic gardening and production. Mix in water, and spray on edible garden plants, ornamental plants, trees, or turf. It can also be mixed into or sprayed on potting or garden soil to control beetle grubs. With a zero-day preharvest interval, you can treat for beetles and harvest your food the same day. And there are no label restrictions for use around bees or flowering plants; therefore, beetleGONE! can be safely used while pollinators are active. This is the only nonchemical spray product on the market that performs at a high level like the leading chemicals but is safe for homeowners and pollinators alike.

Source: beetlegone.com

Price: $79.99 (1-lb. bag)

grubGONE!^® G

This easy-to-apply granule is highly effective in controlling all types of scarab beetle grubs (such as chafers and Japanese beetles), billbugs, and bluegrass weevils in lawns without harming homeowners, pets, pollinators, earthworms, or birds. It does not contaminate the water table or riparian areas such as streams, ponds, and lakes.

The only nonchemical that effectively controls turf grubs from spring through fall, grubGONE!^® works not only against first-instar grubs but also against larger and hardier second- and third-instar grubs. It thus reduces populations of destructive grubs during spring and summer and helps to reduce secondary foraging in summer and fall.

Source: beetlegone.com

Price: $79.99 (10-lb. bag)

Target the Pest, Not the Rest^®

• Controls the grub (larva) of all scarab beetles and other listed turf insects.
• Does NOT harm beneficials (bees, butterflies, earthworms, ladybugs).
• Does NOT put your children or pets at risk like the chemical products do.
• Does NOT contaminate groundwater, ponds, creeks.
• Targets grubs with the high-performing, natural protein BTG that kills turf grubs within days.
• Adding to the power of BTG are 1,000 times more spores per pound than other biological, microbial, nonchemical products.
• No need to sacrifice the high performance of leading chemicals for safety.
• Much higher performance than oils, nematodes, and milky spore products.
• Higher performing from summer to fall than the ground- and water-contaminating chemical chlorantraniliprole products.

 

Targeted insect pests include: scarab beetle grubs and adults such as Japanese beetle, Asiatic garden beetle, European chafer, rose chafer, May or June beetle, northern masked chafer, southern masked chafer, black turfgrass ataenius, green June beetle, oriental beetle; leaf beetles such as rice and alder leaf; weevils such as annual bluegrass, sweet potato, pepper, pecan, citrus/strawberry root and other root weevils; flea beetle; borers such as emerald ash borer, gold-spotted oak borer, and soapberry borer; and darkling beetles.

 

Dr. Jimz

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Prepare for Spring Planting and Use Dr. JimZ in 2026! The Best Natural Fertilizer on Earth

• Chicken Soup for the Soil^® improves your soil by feeding it the microbes and supplying it all the nutrients most fertilizers neglect.
• Grow higher-quality fruits and vegetables with more color, better taste, and fewer bug infestation and diseases.
• Contains all the elements in the periodic table (sea nutrients, amino acids, humic, fulvic, and other herbal extracts).
• All-natural, toxin-free, and bioavailable. Works on herbs!
• Non-leaching formula; nutrients accumulate over time.
• Perfect for gardeners, growers, and farmers.

Size: 64-oz. jug (makes up to 128 gallons with 1 tablespoon per gallon)

Price: $34.95 (includes FREE shipping)

Source: www.DrJimZ.com

Commercial quantities available: barrels, totes, and tankers

Fine Gardening Recommended Products

A.M. Leonard Deluxe Soil Knife & Leather Sheath Combo

Fine Gardening receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

MULTITASKING DUAL EDGES: a deep serrated edge and a tapered slicing edge ideal for tough or delicate cuts. DURABLE 6-inch stainless steel blade withstands 300 lbs of pressure. TWINE CUTTING NOTCH, DEPTH GAUGE MARKINGS & spear point – no need to switch tools when using this garden knife. LEATHER SHEATH: heavy duty, protective, clip on sheath to keep your knife convenient and secure. LIFETIME WARRANTY.