Category: Home & Garden

DRAINAGE

One of the greatest drawbacks to successful gardening is badly drained ground. Wherever water lies in the ground at a depth easily reached by the roots of most cultivated plants they do not thrive, except where the water is constantly on the move, such as the bank of a river, brook or lake; there many plants will flourish. There are some wild plants that succeed in soil that has reached a water logged state, but generally such land is useless for gardening, farming or forestry purposes unless steps are taken to free it from superfluous moisture.

Heavy clayey land or soil overlying a hard subsoil is very subject to water logging; so, too, is low-lying land which is little above the high water mark of a river or lake in the vicinity.

How Deep to Lay Drain tiles

When undertaking drainage operations, it is necessary, first, to find whether there is a natural fall from the land in question to a brook, river, lake or pond in the vicinity, and the gradient of the fall. As a rule, it is wise to lay one or more main drains with which side branch drains, laid in herringbone fashion, are connected at such intervals as are likely to carry off the superfluous moisture. The main drains will need to be about 21/2 or 3 ft. beneath the surface, with a slight fall to the outlet; the branch drains may start 15-18 in. deep and fall gradually.

For the main drains, agricultural drain tiles 6 in. in diameter with open joints will usually suffice, the side drains being of similar tiles 4 in. in diameter. The pipes should be laid on an even, gently sloping bottom and around them and over them a layer of loose rubble, gravel or cinders should be placed. In woodlands a series of open drains or ditches answers better than drain-tiles, but the ditches should be cleaned annually.

Flowerpots and pans and flats in which plants are grown, as well as tubs and greenhouse benches, must always be adequately drained; if drainage is not assured, the soil soon becomes waterlogged and “sour” and the plants deteriorate.

These various containers for soil are furnished with holes or narrow slits in their bottoms to permit the escape of superfluous moisture. To facilitate this escape it is usual to place some “drainage material,” often referred to as simply “drainage,” in the bottoms of the containers before the soil is filled in. In the case of pots, pans and tubs, and often flats, this consists of a layer of crocks (pieces of broken flowerpot), coarse cinders or gravel, covered with some coarse organic material such as half-decayed leaves, straw manure or grass turf from which most of the soil has been shaken. Greenhouse benches and, often, flats are drained by placing in their bottoms a layer of coarse organic matter alone without any under layer of crocks, cinders or gravel.

Air drainage is an important matter to consider in gardening. Just as water flows down a slope, so does cold air, and being heavier than warm air, in hollows and valleys at the bottom of slopes it displaces the latter and accumulates. Thus it is that sites at the bottoms of slopes are likely to experience lower temperatures, and these will last for longer periods than they will in locations at somewhat higher elevations.

Because of this, low-lying sites should be avoided when setting out plants on the border line of tenderness and also when planting fruit trees and other early-flowering trees and shrubs that may have their flowers destroyed by a late spring frost. It is a common experience to have fruit blossoms damaged on low-lying sites when those of the same kinds of trees planted at higher elevations are spared.

Seed

Seeds are produced by plants following the fertilization of the flower, as a means of reproducing the plant. Each seed is a plant embryo, which consists of a minute shoot and root and a store of food. The food reserve enables the embryo to grow before its root is developed to absorb nutrients from the soil and before the leaves emerge above the ground and make sugars by photosynthesis, a complex process. In some seeds, such as those of sunflowers or

peas, the food reserve is starch but in others it may be oils or fats. The food reserve occupies the bulk of the volume of a seed. The seed is enclosed in a protective coat called the testa, which frequently has a small hole through which water can enter before germination.

Many seeds undergo a dormant period for some time before germination. This dormant period is useful in that it prevents the seed from germinating in the mild autumn only to be killed off when the frosts arrive. In many seeds the dormant period occurs because germination is delayed by reason of the very hard testa which has to be cracked open by the expansion and shrinkage that occurs during the cold weather. In other types of seeds growth-inhibiting chemicals have to be washed out by the rain before germination will occur. These growth-inhibiting chemicals can prevent the germination of the seeds of other species of plants. The rain washes them into the soil and germination of neighboring seeds is prevented. Some seeds such as those of lettuce and mistletoe, require light before they will germinate, others not only will germinate in the dark but actually are prevented from germination by light.

When the seed is ready to germinate, water enters and the food reserve provides energy for the growth of root.

Treatment to ensure the germination of seeds is generally applied before they are sold commercially. Lack of knowledge of the treatment a particular seed needs often accounts for the failures gardeners may encounter when trying to harvest and germinate their own seeds.

Seed bed

This is a specially prepared site where seeds are to be sown. It may be in a frame or in the open garden but seldom in a greenhouse. Seed beds made in the open garden during early spring are often given cloche protection. There are two types of seed bed. In the first seeds are propagated to provide seedlings for transplanting elsewhere at a later date. In the second plants are permitted to develop where the seeds were sown. Excess seedlings in this type of bed are thinned when quite small. The term is more usually applied to the first type of bed which may be prepared between early spring and autumn. For most gardeners this form of seed bed is more likely to be made during the main sowing season from February to April.

A good tilth is necessary and where the soil has a high clay content it is advisable to dig the site fairly deeply in late autumn or winter. The dug soil should be left quite rough and no attempt be made to break it down. Disintegration of the surface soil will occur through the weathering action of frost and snow.

Where a light soil has been dug in autumn or winter it can become consolidated by heavy rains, and before a seed bed may be prepared in spring forking to a depth of 5-7cm (2-3in) may be needed.

From the Latin salveo, meaning save or heal, used by Pliny with reference to the medicinal qualities of some species (Labiatae). A large genus of over 700 species of hardy, half-hardy and tender annual, biennial, perennial plants and shrubs, some with aromatic leaves, widely distributed in the temperate and warmer zones. It includes the common sage, S. officinalis, a valuable culinary plant, as well as many colourful summer and autumn flowering border plants.

Salvia Species grown

• S. ambigens, about 5 feet, perenniai or sub-shrub, flowers deep sky-blue, September-October, South America, slightly tender.
• S. argentea, 2 feet, most decorative, leaves large, silvery-grey, felted, flowers white, small, in spikes, June and July, Mediterranean region; for a dry soil and a sunny position.
• S. aurea, shrub, leaves rounded, covered with fine hairs, flowers yellowish-brown, South Africa, hardy in mild areas.
• S. azurea, 4 feet, sub-shrub, flowers deep blue, autumn, North America, hardy; var. grandiflora, flower spikes denser.
• S. fulgens, Mexican red sage, 2-3 feet, shrub, flowers scarlet, in whorls, July, Mexico, tender.
• S. ges‑neraeflora, 2 feet, sub-shrub, flowers bright scarlet, summer, Colombia, tender.
• S. grahamii, shrub, to 4 feet, flowers deep crimson, July onwards, Mexico, somewhat tender.
• S. greggii, shrub, 3 feet, flowers scarlet, summer, Texas, Mexico, tender.
• S. haematodes, biennial, 3 feet, leaves large, wrinkled, heart-shaped, light blue flowers on branching stems from June to August, Greece.
• S. interrupta, 2-3 feet, sub-shrub, leaves 3-lobed, aromatic, flowers violet purple with white throat, May to July, Morocco, nearly hardy.
• S. involucrata, sub-shrub, 2-4 feet, flowers rose, summer and autumn, Mexico, not quite hardy; var. bethelii, flowers rosy crimson in longer spikes.
• S. juriscii, perennial, 1 foot, flowers violet, June, Serbia, hardy.
• S. lavandulifolia, perennial, 9-12 inches, leaves grey, flowers lavender, early summer, hardy.
• S. mexicana minor, sub-shrub, to 1.5 feet in nature, flowers violet-blue, February, Mexico, tender.
• S. neurepia, sub-shrub, 6-7 feet, flowers scarlet, late summer and autumn, Mexico, hardy in the milder counties.
• S. officinalis, common sage, sub-shrub, 2-3 feet, leaves wrinkled, aromatic, flowers variable purple, blue or white, June and July, southern Europe, hardy; vars. purpurascens, reddish-purple stems, and leaves, strongly flavored; aurea, leaves golden, flowers rarely produced.
• S. pratense, perennial, 2 feet, flowers bright blue, June to August, Europe, including Britain, hardy; var. rosea, flowers rosy-purple.
• S. rutilans, pineapple-scented sage, sub-shrub, 2-3 feet, flowers magenta-crimson, summer, tender.
• S. sclarea, clary, biennial or short-lived perennial, leaves and stems sticky, flowers pale mauve, bracts white and rose, conspicuous, June to September, Europe; various strains are offered; var. turkestanica, flowers white, bracts and stems pink.
• S. splendens, scarlet sage, sub-shrub, 3 feet, flowers scarlet, in spikes in summer, Brazil, usually grown as half-hardy annual; vars. for summer bedding: ‘Blaze of Fire’, 9-12 inches, scarlet; ‘Fireball’, 15 inches, rich scarlet; ‘Harbinger’, 15 inches, long scarlet spikes ; ‘Salmon Pygmy,’ 6 inches.
• S. x superba (syn. S. nemorosa), 3 feet, bracts reddish, persistent, flowers violet-purple in spikes, July to September, hybrid, hardy; var. lubeca, identical but 1.5 feet tall only.
• S. uliginosa, bog sage, 4-5 feet, leaves shiny green, deeply toothed, flowers azure-blue in spikes, August to October, eastern North America, hardy.

Planting Salvias in the Garden

Salvias are easily grown in ordinary, well-drained garden soil and in a sunny position.

S. argentea particularly likes dry soil, as well as sun, and S. officinalis should be cut back in spring to encourage new bushy growth. S.x superba makes a particularly good border plant when planted in a bold group.

S. uliginosa prefers moister conditions than the others, and its creeping rootstock should be given a covering of bracken or dry peat in cold districts. Those described as tender will succeed in the milder counties, given the shelter of a warm wall, or they may be grown in the greenhouse in pots in a compost of loam and well-rotted manure or leafmould plus some sand to provide drainage.

The pots may be placed out of doors in June and brought in again in September. Water freely form spring to autumn, moderately in winter. Maintain a temperature in winter of 45-55°F (7-10°C). Propagate the shrubs, sub-shrubs and hardy perennial kinds by division in the spring or by soft-wood cuttings, rooted in sandy soil in a propagating case in spring in a temperature of 65°F (18°C).

S. splendens is increased by seed sown under glass in February or March in a temperature of 60°F (16°C) and planted out in late May or June.

How to Grow Salvia

Salvia (sal-vee-a)

Commemorating Paeon, an ancient Greek physician, is said to have first used P. officinalis medicinally. Although the genus has long been considered a member of the buttercup family, Ranunculaceae, some modern botanists now place it in a family of its own, Paeoniaceae. A genus of 33 species of hardy herbaceous and shrubby perennials and a few shrubs, among the noblest and most decorative plants for a sunny or shaded border. The main division of the genus is between the herbaceous and the tree paeony, but botanically, the matter is much more complex.

Stern’s monograph, A Study of the Genus Paeonia, published by the· Royal Horticultural Society in 1946, deals with the whole classification. The wild herbaceous species are single-flowered and vary in height from about 1 foot up to 3 or 4 feet. The double varieties have been developed by breeding and selection. The tree paeonies, although woody shrubs, are deciduous and are often grown in association with other hardy perennial plants. They enjoy a sunny position but are liable to be broken by summer gales, so they should be planted in a reasonably sheltered place. Long established specimens-they live many years and attain a height of 7 feet or more with a considerable spread.

Accordingly, it is necessary to allow ample space when planting tree paeonies, for no paeony likes being moved once it has been planted. Tree peonies are often grafted onto the rootstock of P. officinalis, the common garden paeony, and when planting, care should be taken to bury the point of the union between the stock and the scion 3 inches below the surface. At this point, a young specimen may get broken in rough weather. If possible, choose a site that does not get the early morning sun because tree paeonies come into growth earlier than herbaceous varieties, and late spring frosts may damage the young shoots.

Species cultivated

• P. anomala, 1.5 feet, foliage finely cut, flowers bright crimson, May, Russia, central Asia.
• P. bakeri, 2 feet, flowers purplish-red, May, possibly of garden origin.
• P. broteri, 1.5 feet, purplish-red, May, Spain and Portugal.
• P. cambessedesii, 1feet, deep rose·pink, April-May, Balearic Isles, liable to damage by spring frost.
• P. clusii (syn. P. cretica), 1 foot, white, May, Crete.
• P. coriacea, 1 -2 feet, rose, April, Spain, Morocco.
• P. delavayi, up to 5 feet, shrubby, dark red, May, China; var. angustiloba, leaves finely divided.
• P. emodi, 1-3 feet, white, May, Himalaya.
• P. humilis,15 inches, distinct small leaflets, dark pink to red, May, southern France, Spain.
• P. lactiflora (syns. P. albiflora, P. edulis), up to 2 feet, white, fragrant, June, Siberia, northern China, Mongolia.
• P. lutea, shrubby, up to 4 feet, yellow, June, China, Tibet.
• P. x lemoinei (P. lutea x P. sutfruticosa), shrubby, 4-5 feet, flowers large, yellow, May-June, hybrid race.
• P. mascula (syn. P. corallina), 2-3 feet, deep rose, May, Europe, naturalised in Britain.
• P. mlokosewit schii, 1feet, foliage, grey-green, flowers yellow, coral stamens, April, Caucasus.
• P. officinalis, up to 2 feet, red, May, southern Europe; vars. alba-plena, the old double white paeony; rosea plena, the old double rose paeony; rubra plena, the old double crimson paeony.
• P. peregrina (syns. P. decora, P. lobata), up to 3 feet, deep maroon-red, May, southern Europe, Asia Minor.
• P. potaninii (syn. P. delavayi angustiloba), shrubby, up to 5 feet, deep maroon, May, western China.
• P. sutfruticosa (syn. P. moutan), tree paeony, up to 6 feet, rose-pink, May, China, Tibet.
• P. tenui folia, 1-2 feet, leaves finely dissected, fern-like, flowers deep crimson, May, Transylvania, Caucasus.
• P. veitchii, 1-2 feet, purplish-red, June, China.
• P. wittmanniana, up to 3 feet, yellowish, April, Caucasus.

Hybrid Double Paeonies (a selection)

Adolphe Rousseau‘, 3 feet, maroon, golden anthers, large, June.

‘Alice Harding’, 2 feet, pale pink, cream within, fragrant, excellent foliage on strong stems, May and early June.

‘Baroness Schroder’ is 3 feet tall, free-flowering, white with a yellow center, and has large globular blooms that are excellent for cutting and fragrant in late May and June.

Claire Dubois‘, 3 feet, satiny pink and silver, June.

‘Duchesse de Nemours,’ 3 feet, free flowering, white to pale sulfur-yellow, medium-size, incurved bloom, fragrant, May and June.

‘Edulis Superba’, 3 feet, old rose-pink, edged silver, fragrant. Early May onwards, it was used as a commercial variety for cut bloom.

‘Eugene Verdier’, 3 feet, soft pink, silver-edged, free-flowering, is a famous old variety, June. ‘Felix Crousse’, 2 feet, bright deep carmine, large, is a popular variety.

Festiva Maxima‘, 3 feet, pure white, flecked crimson, fragrant, a splendid old variety, the name meaning the largest and gayest, May.

‘Germaine Bigot,’ 2 feet, semi-double, glistening white, shaded pale salmon, fragrant,· June.

‘Karl Rosenfeld’, 2 feet, bright crimson, June.

Kelway’s Glorious‘, 2 feet, creamy-white, large, fragrant, among the best of the doubles, May-June.

‘Sarah Bernhardt’, 2 feet, bright pink, tipped silver, large, June.

Hybrid Single Paeonies

‘Eva’, 2 feet, deep salmon-pink, June.

‘Lady Wolseley’, 2 feet, deep rose, large, June.

Lord Kitchener‘, 3 feet, deep maroon-red, May.

‘Pink Delight’, 2 feet, pale pink, becoming white, May.

Growing Paeonies

Paeonies are easily grown in sun or partial shade and in deep fertile soil, preferably containing lime, where they can remain undisturbed for many years. Top dress with old manure or garden compost every two or three years in February. Named varieties of herbaceous and tree paeonies are increased by division in September or October, which gives the newly planted pieces time to make fresh roots before the ground is frozen. Great care must be ta ken when lifting the clumps for division, as the thick root-stock is very brittle. Paeonies ca n be raised from seed, but it is a slow process, and the seedlings may vary considerably in color and arid form.

Seed should be sown about 2 inches deep in sandy loam in a cold frame in September. Newly gathered
seed is best. With old seed the covering may be hard and the seed should be soaked in water for a few days before sowing. Some seeds may germinate the first spring, but the majority may take up to two years. Placing seed in a refrigerator for 48 hours or so before sowing sometimes· accelerates germination. Seedlings .may take five years or more to develop into plants large enough to produce mature blooms.

One cannot accurately assess the quality of the blooms produced in the first and second years of flowering as they are not usually typical. Commercial growers usually graft in August onto stock of Paeonia albiflora. Tree paeonies can also be layered, but it is a slow process, and air layering has been attempted on a small scale without great success.

How to Grow Paeonia

Paeonia (pe-o-ne-a)

Hey there! My name is Brad Johnson, and I garden in northeastern Ohio (Zone 6b). I’m sharing some photos of my DIY greenhouse/potting shed.

We constructed this over the summer of 2023. After three years of dreaming up this space we finally hit the ground running, tore down our dilapidated shed, and got to work.

We salvaged old windows from a couple redoing a sun room, found free French doors as well, and set out to create the blueprint.

It’s not an easy task building anything from scratch, but as an avid DIYer I was determined to make my dream a reality. Countless inspiration photos and YouTube videos later, I felt confident we could do it!

My partner and I spent many evenings and weekends after work constructing every inch of this. With dimensions of 16×13 I have plenty of space to overwinter all my tropicals and my cuttings for the next year—and to start all the countless seeds I keep ordering.

It’s fun to sit at my workbench and pot up or start the season off while watching my favorite shows, all in a heated and comfortable space. Who says a potting shed has to be boring? We have already added a mini fridge too.

My advice to anyone wanting to tackle such a project is to do your research and know your limits. It’s not for everyone, but if you can dream it, you can do it!

If you want to see more from Brad, check out his Instagram: @garden.evolution

Have a garden you’d like to share?

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To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.

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Cultivate bay laurel for flavor & privacy. Get the details of planting & propagating bay leaf—expert tips for growing bay leaf in any climate.

Did you know you could grow a bay leaf (also known as bay laurel) plant? It makes an excellent privacy hedge, and its leaves add a delightful flavor to soups, stews, and rice. Additionally, bay laurel leaves make beautiful wreaths and more. Discover the secrets to growing bay leaf in this blog post.

Bay laurel (Lauro nobilis) is native to the Mediterranean and thrives outdoors year-round in warm climates (USDA zones 8-10). Here in the low desert of Arizona, bay laurel is a reliable perennial herb. However, if you live in a colder zone, growing it in a container is your best bet. This will allow you to bring it indoors during winter when temperatures drop below freezing. 

Jump to the topics below that you would like to learn more about:

How to plant bay laurel

The easiest way to start bay laurel is to find a transplant at a local nursery. 

Opt for a location that receives ample sunlight. Morning sun and afternoon shade are ideal, especially in a hot summer climate like Arizona.

Plant outside in good to average soil that is well-draining to prevent waterlogging, which can lead to root rot. If your soil is heavy and retains water, consider amending it with organic matter such as compost to improve drainage.

Plants can grow large, but tend to have an upright form. Space bay laurel plants 6-8 feet (1.8-2.4 meters) apart. Use closer spacing of 3-4 feet (.9-1.2 m) apart for privacy hedges.

To plant bay leaf, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball of your plant but just as deep so that the transplant is neither too low nor too high in the ground. Gently loosen the roots to encourage growth, place the plant in the hole, and fill it back in with native soil. Lightly tamp down the soil around the plant and water it thoroughly. Top with mulch.

How to propagate bay leaf from cuttings

If you can’t find transplants at a local nursery, you can make your plant with a cutting. Bay laurel is pretty slow-growing, but propagation can be an excellent way to get a plant. 

To propagate bay laurel from a cutting, select a healthy, young stem from an established plant during the spring or summer when the plant’s growth is most vigorous. 

Cut a 4-to-6-inch (10-15 cm) section just below a leaf node where the concentration of growth hormones is high. Strip the lower leaves, leaving two or three at the top, and remove the top half of those leaves. Dip the cut end into a rooting hormone to encourage root development. Then, plant the cutting in a well-draining soil mixture that contains vermiculite or perlite. 

Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, and place the pot in a warm spot with indirect sunlight. You may need to cover it to help maintain the humidity. Take the cover off when the plant starts growing.

Take more cuttings than you need – usually about ½ will take. With patience and proper care, roots will develop, and you’ll have a new bay laurel plant to nurture and eventually harvest leaves. 

When to plant bay laurel

In most areas, you will plant in the spring. In mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, you can also plant in the fall. Young bay laurel plants are sensitive to frost, so cover them in the first winter or two if they freeze. 

Once established, they can tolerate some frost (down to zone 8) but not long-extended freezes. 

The leaves will probably turn brown and dry if a light frost hits your bay laurel. Prune off any damaged leaves after the danger of frost has passed. If your tree shows signs of die-back in the spring, prune the stems below the damage. Established bay laurel tolerates light frosts and short-term freezes. 

How to care for bay leaf

One of the easier plants in my landscape is this slow-growing plant. I keep it on a drip system that gets watered about once a week in the summer and every 2-4 weeks in the cooler temperatures. Bay leaf is relatively pest-free. Some people even use bay leaves as a natural form of pest control. 

The natural upright growth form and slow growth make bay laurel an excellent privacy hedge. But you can prune as needed for shape. The best time to prune bay laurel is when it is dormant, in early spring, before new growth forms. To keep the tree small, you can prune as much or as little as you like.

How to grow bay leaf in containers

To grow bay laurel in a container, use a large pot (about 24 inches/60 cm) and a quality potting mix or raised bed mix. When planting bay laurel, choose a young but well-established transplant. 

Fill the container halfway up with soil and make a hole in the center of the pot that is slightly larger than the root ball of your transplant. Carefully place the bay laurel into the hole at the same level as the nursery pot and fill in around it with soil, patting down gently to eliminate air pockets. Water the plant thoroughly after planting to settle the soil around the roots and provide moisture for growth.

Because bay laurel is slow-growing, you shouldn’t need to repot it more than once every five years. Place the container in a sunny spot where it can get at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Once temperatures are below 50°F (10°C), bring it indoors and give it lots of light. During a freeze, cover young plants or bring them indoors.

Harvesting bay leaves

Harvesting bay laurel is simple: pick off the desired leaves. Select the larger, more flavorful leaves, and avoid taking too many leaves at once. Harvest mature leaves at any time for use in recipes. However, you should wait until the plant is a year or two old before significant harvests.

Leaves are typically dried before using (learn how below) to reduce bitterness.

How to dry bay laurel leaves

Drying your bay laurel leaves is simple. To begin, pick the leaves from your bay laurel plant during the late summer when they are mature and aromatic. For the best results, choose whole, undamaged leaves. After harvesting, wash the leaves gently in cold water and pat them dry with a paper towel to remove any debris or residue.

The most traditional method for drying bay leaves involves simply letting them air dry. Spread the clean leaves in a single layer on a drying rack and place them in a warm, dry room with good airflow. Avoid direct sunlight as it can fade the leaves and reduce their potent flavor. It can take a few weeks for the leaves to dry completely. You’ll know they are ready when they feel crisp to the touch and crumble when bent.

Alternatively, you can dry bay leaves in the oven for a faster process. Preheat the oven to its lowest setting, usually between 175°F to 200°F (79°C to 93°C). Place the leaves on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup. Put the tray in the oven and leave the door ajar to allow moisture to escape. Check the leaves every 20 minutes and turn them occasionally to ensure even drying. This process should take about 1 to 2 hours. 

Once dried, store the bay leaves in an airtight container in a cool, dark place to preserve their flavor. When stored properly, they can last for several years but are most flavorful within the first year.

How to use bay leaf

When used in cooking, bay laurel leaves impart a subtle depth and a hint of earthiness to dishes. Add bay leaves early in cooking, giving them time to simmer with soups, stews, and sauces. The heat releases their volatile oils, responsible for their characteristic aroma and flavor.

One of the most classic applications is in a bouquet garni, where bay leaves are bundled with other herbs like thyme and parsley to infuse broths. Moreover, a single leaf can be the secret ingredient in a pot of beans, a hearty Bolognese sauce, or a savory brine.

Remove leaves before serving, as they can be sharp and difficult to digest if left whole. One or two leaves are sufficient to season most recipes.

I made this fun wreath using bay leaves. I let it hang in my kitchen, so it’s easy to pop into soups or stews when I need one. The fresh leaves will dry naturally on the wreath, retaining their shape and fragrance. Learn how to make your own in this blog post.

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Imagine hanging a beautiful bay leaf (bay laurel) wreath in your kitchen, where its simple beauty adds charm and a hint of nature to your space. As the leaves dry, they can be plucked and used to infuse your cooking with their distinctive flavor. Make this bay laurel wreath using just a few materials. This blog post will guide you through making your own bay laurel wreath.

Step 1: Gather Your Materials

To make a bay leaf wreath, you will need fresh bay leaves, wire, and string. It’s important to use fresh leaves as they are more pliable and easier to work with. Learn how to grow bay laurel in this blog post. 

Step 2: Prep Your Leaves & Wire

Once you have gathered your materials, wash the bay leaves thoroughly and let them dry completely.

Then, take the wire and shape it into a circle of approximately 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. Leave one end free while creating a loop at the other end.

Step 3: Arrange the Bay Leaves

Overlap several leaves while keeping the petioles (the stalk that supports a leaf in a plant and attaches it to the stem) even, and then trim the end off using scissors or pruning shears.

Insert the stems into the wire circle until it is full. Continue this process until the entire circumference is covered with lush greenery.

Step 4: Secure the Wreath

After all of your bay leaves are inserted into the wire circle, pass the free end through the looped end of the wire. Twist the wire and secure the end so that it forms a complete circle. Use string to tie around the top of your wreath so that it hangs easily.

Step 5: Enjoy!

Your beautiful and fragrant bay leaf wreath is now complete! Hang it on a peg in your kitchen or anywhere for an inviting touch. The leaves will dry naturally and can be added to flavor dishes anytime. Hang it out of direct sunlight and use it within 6 months to a year for the most flavor.

Making a bay laurel wreath is an easy and fun DIY project that anyone with access to bay leaves can do. I hope this guide has been helpful in creating your own stunning bay leaf wreath. Try it and see how simple it is to make something truly beautiful.

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Patios have evolved from the past’s simple square stone or brick platform on which to place a table and some chairs. Today’s patios extend your home’s living space to your outdoor area, adding to your property’s value and, most importantly, to your own personal enjoyment. Practically speaking, patios can be more cost-effective than adding a deck to your home due to their inherent durability and low maintenance. From small meditative corners tucked under a canopy of trees to fully-functioning outdoor kitchen and entertainment areas, your patio can be anything and everything you want it to be.

The challenge with so many choices, of course, is where to begin. This is where a professional landscape design company like Farmside Landscape becomes invaluable. We can help you create a patio that suits your needs, your budget, and works with the topography of your property.

Patios for Problem Yards

Often, areas that present themselves as “flaws” can turn out to be wonderful opportunities for creative design solutions. For example, a steeply sloped yard can be terraced to become both functional and attractive. For oddly shaped yards, a free-form shaped patio or even multiple smaller patios may make more sense.

Patio Styles

The style of patio you decide upon should be the culmination of numerous factors, such as its intended use, the physical shape of your property, natural elements such as trees, yard orientation (does it face the sunny south or shadier north?) and personal style (formal, casual, modern, traditional).

For example, if a kitchen or entertainment style patio is something you want, we can help with functionality and flow, ensuring your patio is easily accessible to your home, and that foot traffic remains unencumbered when toting food from your interior kitchen to your exterior space.

A serene space to read or meditate would benefit from a destination patio – a patio further away from the home, in a quieter spot on your property. Destination patios can also make sense when considering elements such as air flow (better away from the walls of your home) as well as natural shade and attractive views.

Ideas for Planning for Your Patio

Some things to think about (and we’ll help you with!) when planning your patio:

• Determine how you want to use your patio. Do you want to use your patio as an extension of your home or more of an escape? Will it be used for cooking? Entertainment? Family time? Relaxation? Leisure? A combination of all of these things?
• How many people will use your patio? Will your patio be a gathering place for family and friends? A restorative retreat for one or two?
• When considering size – go larger than you think. A patio can seem large when viewed with the expanse and spaciousness of the outdoors. Add furnishings and people, and the reality of size constraints becomes quickly apparent.

One way to get a sense of the amount of space you’ll need is to mark off the size of the patio you’re considering, then place your outdoor furniture (or use sheets of newspaper if you don’t have furniture yet) within this space to see how much room this will occupy. Figure on 2-3 feet of space to maneuver around furnishings.

• Consider breaking up your patio into multiple spaces and functions, much like the various rooms inside of your house. Beautiful walking paths can also complement your patio and your home’s exterior.
• Views – does your property have a natural view you want to see or one you don’t? Is there a natural focal point in your yard? (This could be a man made element such as a pool).
• Consider including planting zones within your patio. Flowers, shrubs and trees soften hardscapes and add a beautiful aesthetic to any type of patio you choose.
• Fire pits add light, warmth, and ambience to your outdoor space. They’re natural gathering places for people and can extend the time you enjoy your outdoor space into cooler weather.
• Budget – once you have some ideas of what you’d like, we’ll work within your budget to help you achieve the patio of your dreams.

We’re here to help you design the patio that’s perfect for you. We’ll advise you on all the elements you want for your patio as well as provide you with our expertise on design, material selection and all the many options available today for maximizing your enjoyment of your outdoor space.

Each season, I aim to add more edible perennials to my desert garden. Where I live, we have very hot summers and mild winters, so the challenge is finding perennial crops that survive our hot, dry summers. Over time, I’ve curated this list of 25 edible perennials that thrive in the hot climate of the Arizona desert, transforming my garden into an edible paradise.

Why grow edible perennials?

Unlike annual plants, which complete their life cycle in one season and must be replanted, perennials can live for many years. This means more food with less effort and expense.

An added benefit is that once they are established, most perennials have little upkeep–usually only seasonal pruning and amending with compost. And finally, many edible perennials are high-value crops that can be grown for much less than they cost in the grocery store.

Definition of edible perennial

Perennials are often defined in different ways. For this article, these are the criteria I’m using:

• A species that lives out its life cycle over 2 more years. 
• The ability to survive winter and summer.
• Harvest in a way that doesn’t kill the plant. (Some of these root crops are plant/replant perennials, meaning they are dug up for harvest, but then some portion is replanted in the same or another hole, keeping the plant alive to produce again the following year.) 

Although I’m growing nearly 40 different types of fruit trees, I’m not including fruit trees and most herbs in this post. I recently posted 10 Perennial Herbs for Hot Climates, and I’ll share more about creating a food forest with fruit trees in an upcoming post!

25 Edible Perennials for Desert Climates

1. Artichoke

At the end of flowering, cut plants down to just above the ground and mulch heavily to help them survive the summer. I like growing sweet potatoes over the soil during the summer to further protect the crowns. The plant will begin growing again in the fall. Artichoke plants usually live for 3-4 years. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow artichokes.

2. Asparagus

Asparagus roots produce individual stalks above ground. The roots and stalks grow larger each year. A well-kept asparagus patch can produce for 10 years or more! For more information, read my blog post on how to grow asparagus.

3. Peppers

Although peppers are often grown as an annual in cooler climates, in the low desert it’s easy to keep them alive for years. Cover plants during frost events. Cut plants back in the early spring and/or fall to reinvigorate. After 3-4 years, production may decline. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow peppers.

4. Chiltepin

Chiltepin is a wild chili pepper native to the U.S. and Mexico, known for its intense heat and considered the ancestor of all peppers. Plants grow large. I grow my plants in native soil and take care not to overwater. Chiltepin is frost-sensitive; cover plants during frost events.

5. Eggplant

Eggplant is one of the easiest plants to grow in the low desert. Plant in early spring or with the monsoons. Protect from freezing temperatures. May live 2-3 years with ideal growing conditions. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow eggplant.

6. Indeterminate Tomatoes

Indeterminate tomatoes can live for several years if they stay healthy. Feed the soil with compost, keep lower leaves trimmed, and water tomatoes deeply to prevent disease. Protect from freezing temperatures. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow tomatoes.

7. Strawberries

The trick is to choose the correct varieties and provide afternoon shade so strawberries can survive the summer. Plants can live for 3-4 years. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow strawberries.

25 Edible Perennials for Hot Climates (continued)

8. Grapes

Grapes can take full sun. Their roots go 2 feet (.6 meters) deep; plant in rich soil. Learn how to train and prune correctly, and grapevines will live for many years.

9. Blackberries

Blackberries grow well with plenty of sunlight and water. Blackberry canes are biennial. The canes are fruitless the first year, and then bear fruit the second year, and die after fruiting. Next year’s fruit will grow on this year’s growth.

10. Goji Berries

Berries form on current-year’s wood. Light pruning encourages new growth and keeps the plant open for light and air circulation. Plants begin producing at 2 years old and reach maximum production after 3-5 years.

11. Chichiquelite

Commonly called garden huckleberry. Berries produce abundantly over a long season. Plants grow large and grow well in the ground.

12. Sweet Potatoes

Sweet potatoes are one of my favorite cover crops. I grow them in raised beds and in the ground. If you want to keep sweet potatoes growing as a perennial, leave a small portion in the ground after harvesting, or replant a rooted stem. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow sweet potatoes.

13. Longevity Spinach

This tasty spinach grows well in partial shade. I usually grow it as a ground cover. Longevity spinach tolerates neglect and survives for years.

14. Capers

Caper plants thrive in the low desert. They are happiest in the ground, with at least six feet in every direction.

15. Elderberry

Mexican elderberry, also known as Sambucus Mexicana, thrives in Arizona’s hot climate due to its natural tolerance for drought and heat. Regular watering during the first growing season will help establish a deep root system, making the plant more resistant to drier conditions later on.

16. Jerusalem Artichoke / Sunchoke:

Jerusalem artichokes, also known as sunchokes, thrive in Arizona’s sunny and hot climate. It’s time to harvest when the plants die back. At harvest time, leave a tuber or two in the ground, and they will sprout and grow again.

17. Sugarcane

Sugarcane is a tropical plant that grows best with plenty of water. This perennial grass forms lateral shoots that you harvest each year. New canes form as plants spread and multiply.

25 Edible Perennials for Hot Climates (continued)

18. Passion Fruit Vine

The vigorous vine produces fruit in the spring and fall – give it something to climb. Passion fruit vine usually lasts 3-4 years.

19. Moringa

Moringa is ideal for hot climate desert gardens as it thrives in hot, arid conditions. The leaves are commonly consumed fresh or dried, and the pods are popular in Indian and Asian cooking.

20. Garlic Chives

The oldest garlic chive plant in my garden is at least 10 years old. I divide it every few years, and it comes back each spring. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow garlic chives.

21. I’itoi onions

I’itoi onions are a multiplier onion well-suited to desert growing. The planted bulb multiplies and is propagated by division of bulbs. Bulbs left in the ground over the summer will go dormant and begin growing again in the fall. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow I’itoi onions.

22. Turmeric

This edible perennial needs shade when grown in Arizona. Because the ground doesn’t freeze, I usually leave mine in the ground and harvest as needed throughout the year. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow turmeric.

23. Ginger

Very similar to turmeric, you can leave ginger in the ground and harvest as needed throughout the year. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow ginger.

24. Pigeon Peas

Pigeon pea is a perennial legume shrub that lasts four or five years. Plants can grow large and do well in native soil here in the desert.

25. Cucamelon

Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but, if cared for properly, can live for several seasons. Throughout the season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well, and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring. For more information, read my blog post on how to grow cucamelons.

These are the edible perennials I’m growing right now or have grown in my hot climate desert garden. I’m sure there are lots more. Let me know in the comments which ones you’re growing!

Other ways to have vegetables come back each year

• Let vegetables flower and drop seeds.
• Save garlic cloves to replant the following year.
• Save seeds each season to replant.

For more information, read my blog post on Self-Sufficient Gardening.

Looking for more information about edible perennials in the desert?

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Learn how to grow Butternut squash. This post covers all the steps, from planting the seeds to picking a beautiful squash. Butternut squash, scientifically known as Cucurbita moschata, has a sweet, nutty flavor (similar to a pumpkin) and is one of my favorite crops to grow. It’s a warm-season vegetable that requires a long growing season to mature and grows very well in the low desert of Arizona.

Try different varieties of butternut squash

Butternut squash plants are vigorous and can grow up to several feet long, producing fruits weighing up to several pounds. Butternut squash is known for its high vitamin A and potassium content, making it a nutritious addition to your diet.

There are many varieties of butternut squash to choose from, each with unique characteristics. Here are some of the most popular:

• Waltham Butternut: This classic variety has a sweet taste and smooth texture.
• Butterbush: This smaller variety is ideal for container gardens or small spaces.
• Early Butternut: This variety matures earlier than other butternut squash, making it a good choice for regions with shorter growing seasons.
• Honeynut Winter Squash: Crossed variety with small fruits and resistance to powdery mildew and squash vine borers.

Learn more about how to grow summer squash, winter squash, and more varieties of summer squash in these posts. (click on the image to read the blog posts)

When to plant butternut squash:

If you live in the low desert region of Arizona, plant butternut squash seeds outdoors in mid-February or early March. This squash has a second planting window during the monsoon season in July or August. 

In other areas, planting dates can vary depending on your location and frost dates. As a general rule, you should plant seeds in the spring once the soil has warmed up and any risk of frost has passed. Butternut squash plants prefer warm weather and can grow in temperatures between 60°F to 105°F (15.5°C to 40.5°C).

How and where to plant:

To start seeds indoors, sow them in individual pots filled with good-quality potting mix. Keep the soil moist and warm (around 70°F or 21°C) until the seeds germinate. Once the seedlings have developed their true leaves, you can transplant them into your garden.

To plant seeds directly in the soil, plant them ½ to 1 inch (1-3 cm) deep. Space them 2-4 feet (.6-1.2 meters) apart if you’re planting in raised beds or containers. You can also use square-foot gardening techniques and plant one butternut squash plant per square foot if growing it vertically.

Soil should be well-drained and rich in organic matter. To improve soil fertility, add compost or aged manure.

Butternut squash plants require full sun to grow properly, so choose a location with at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily – morning sun preferred. If you’re growing butternut squash in hot summer climates like Arizona, providing afternoon shade during the summer months prolongs the growing season.

Caring for butternut squash: 

Water plants deeply when the top couple of inches of soil feels dry. Adding a thick layer of mulch helps the soil retain moisture.

I love growing butternut squash vertically. Give them something to climb. The fruits do not require additional support as they develop. 

The vines produce male and female blossoms. If female blossoms are withering and not developing into fruit, consider hand-pollinating them. Transfer pollen from the male flower to the female blossom when the blooms are open (usually first thing in the morning). 

Tips for growing butternut squash in containers:

Butternut squash can be grown in containers, but choose a large container at least 24 inches (60 cm) deep and wide. Use good-quality potting or raised bed mix and water frequently. Use trellises or stakes to support the plants as they grow. Learn more about how to grow in containers in this blog post.

Common pest or disease issues:

Butternut squash plants are susceptible to pests and diseases, such as squash bugs, cucumber beetles, and powdery mildew. Growing vertically increases airflow and reduces powdery mildew. It also makes pests easier to spot.

If you see the leaves wilt, it’s a good sign that pests may be present. Check the undersides of all leaves several times a day and remove all stages (adult, nymph, and eggs) of squash bugs or cucumber beetles. Early detection and hand-picking are often the best methods to treat these pests successfully.  Learn more about preventing pests organically in this blog post.

Harvesting and using butternut squash:

Butternut squash takes about 80-100 days to mature, depending on the variety and growing conditions. The fruit is ready to harvest when the skin turns a deep tan color and is hard to penetrate with a fingernail. Cut the fruit from the vine using a sharp knife, leaving a few inches of stem attached. You can also harvest butternut squash when it’s still small and use it like summer squash. 

Once the skin hardens, do not leave on the plant–fruits may split.

To store butternut squash after harvest, keep them in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Butternut squash can last for several months if stored properly. Check fruits frequently for soft spots or mold, and use or discard them right away if present.

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a beginner, learn how to grow butternut squash and see why it’s a popular vegetable for many dishes. 

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I don’t know about you, but I’m ready to get outside and get my hands into the warm dirt. Gardening season can’t come soon enough this year. In the meantime, I will have to scratch that itch in other ways (starting seeds) and, of course, dream about what I am going to do to improve my garden this year. The list below features products and plants that would be wonderful additions to any garden. Find inspiration and items that will take your garden to the next level, make your work easier, and add the color or interest you want.

Is there a new product or plant you’ve seen that we’re missing? Leave a comment below with what you’re most excited about in the world of gardening this year.

Jung Seed

New plants for 2024

Mammoth™ Yellow Quill Chrysanthemum

The Mammoth™ Yellow Quill chrysanthemum was bred in Minnesota to be extra hardy. These mums require no pinching, pruning, or deadheading and survive temperatures as low as –30°F. By their second or third year they can reach 4 feet across with hundreds of blooms per plant, significantly impacting landscapes. Plants can grow from 18 to 36 inches tall. Zones 3 to 9.

Price: $14.95

Source: jungseed.com

‘Dark Side of the Moon’ Astilbe

‘Dark Side of the Moon’ is an astilbe with dark chocolate-burgundy foliage paired with purple flowers. This easy-care perennial prefers shade with rich, moist, and well-drained soil. Plants display colorful masses of feathery spikes for weeks, usually beginning in midsummer, and can grow up to 22 inches tall. Zones 4 to 8.

Price: $14.95

Source: jungseed.com

‘Glad Rags’ Hosta

The ‘Glad Rags’ hosta will add color contrast to your hosta borders with its corrugated and cupped 4-inch leaves. Its narrow, green centers and very wide, bright yellow margins cover almost the entire surface. As the season progresses, the margins soften to shades of ivory and bear small, light lavender flowers. Plants
can grow up to 18 inches tall. Zones 3 to 8.

Price: $18.95

Source: jungseed.com

Rent Mason Bees

Enhance Your Garden With Stingless Mason Bees

Mason bees are fast becoming the new bee to host in your yard. Known as Mother Nature’s premier pollinators, they effortlessly pollinate 95% of everything they touch. When you join our solitary bee team as a host, you release bees and rent nesting blocks. Renting a kit from Rent Mason Bees gives gardeners the benefits of pollination without having to do the annual maintenance work ­because we do all the cleaning and winter storage for you. To learn more, visit our website: rentmasonbees.com.

• Emerge in spring: Mason bees hibernate in a cocoon all winter long and emerge in spring when temperatures reach 55°F.
• Belly floppers: Mason bees belly flop onto blossoms and collect pollen all over their body hairs.
• Incredible pollinators: Mason bees are covered in loose pollen that enables them to pollinate 95% of everything they land on. They can visit 2,000 blossoms a day.
• Solitary bees: Mason bees live and work alone. All females lay their own eggs, gather their own food, and find their own nests. With no queen to protect, they are nonaggressive.
• We do all the maintenance for you! Solitary bees need annual maintenance in the fall to remove harmful predators. When you rent, we’ll take care of the cleaning for you.

Price: $85

Source: rentmasonbees.com

Garden Artisans

Because the garden is your canvas

The Charleston

A study in elegance, this finely crafted rose support is designed to induce a well-kept habit that encourages the growth of new and budding side shoots. Galvanized, powder-coated steel and one-piece construction combine for a sturdy, rust-resistant structure backed by a 10-year warranty. This support rises to 7 feet 7 inches with a 20-inch diameter. A larger version suitable for parks is also available.

Price: $2,037

Source: gardenartisans.com/charleston-rose-pillar

Sandstone Spheres

Classic, simple, stunning. The organic texture and shape of these spheres complement any garden style. Group them in a bed, dot them throughout a border, or use them to line the edge of a path or driveway. Made of cast stone with an invisible flat bottom, they can also be drilled to accommodate rebar staking for added stability. Offered in five neutral colors and five sizes.

Price: $123 to $1,018

Source: gardenartisans.com/concrete-garden-sphere

Ziggy Garden Gnome

Meet Ziggy, the handsomest gnome in town. Finely detailed in cast stone with a carefully groomed beard and charmingly bemused expression, he makes a delightful garden resident. Standing 29 inches tall, Ziggy is available in over 20 subtly toned finishes. Shown here is Relic Hi-tone.

Price: $185

Source: gardenartisans.com/ziggy-garden-gnome

Conifer Kingdom

Striking Foliage Colors

‘Autumn Moon’ Full-Moon Maple (Acer shirasawanum ‘Autumn Moon’)

This breathtaking maple adds sculptural interest to the garden as well as a rare and striking orange hue that lasts from when the leaves first emerge in spring until they develop their richly dappled burnt orange shades in fall. For the best color development, plant in full sun. ‘Autumn Moon’ is one of our best sellers and is a must-have for every garden. Zone 5.

Price: Starting at $54.99

Source: coniferkingdom.com/acer-shirasawanum-autumn-moon

Golden Variegated Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’)

This golden, variegated Japanese forest grass makes an incredible companion for Japanese maples and conifers. It forms a sweeping mound shape and provides a softness to garden beds or romantic movement when lining pathways. It is especially striking when paired with a deep-hued companion, like a deep burgundy maple. Other varieties are available as well, such as ‘Beni-kaze,’ ‘All Gold,’ and ‘Lemon Zest,’ so be sure to check out the full collection.

Price: $16.99

Source: coniferkingdom.com/hakonechloa-macra-aureola-hakone-japanese-forest-grass

Phyllom BioProducts

Natural. Effective. Targeted.

Discovered and developed by a team of experts

Over a span of 15 years, Phyllom BioProducts’ patented strain of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is the first bio insecticide powerful enough to effectively control susceptible beetles, weevils, borers, and grubs. And unlike the chemical products, Phyllom’s products do not pose a risk to nontarget beneficial insects such as earthworms and ladybugs or to pollinators such as bees and butterflies. That makes Phyllom BioProducts the new standard for high performance and safety. You can now achieve a high level of control as with chemical insecticides without doing harm to the natural ecosystem in your yard.

beetleGONE!^® tlc

Use this spray for highly effective organic control of adult beetles, weevils, and borers without harming bees, butterflies, or ladybugs. Target the pest, not the rest!

This product is for organic gardening and production. Mix in water and spray on edible garden plants, ornamental plants, trees, or turf. It can also be mixed into or sprayed on potting or garden soil to control beetle grubs. With a zero-day preharvest interval, you can treat for beetles and harvest your food the same day. And there are no label restrictions for use around bees or flowering plants; therefore, beetleGONE! can be safely used while pollinators are active. This is the only nonchemical spray product on the market that performs at a high level like the leading chemicals but is safe for homeowners and pollinators alike.

Price: $69.99 (1-lb. bag)

Source: beetlegone.com

grubGONE!^® G

This easy-to-apply granule is highly effective in controlling all types of scarab beetle grubs (such as chafers and Japanese beetles), billbugs, and bluegrass weevils in lawns without harming homeowners, pets, pollinators, earthworms, or birds. It does not contaminate the water table or riparian areas such as streams, ponds, and lakes.

The only nonchemical that effectively controls turf grubs from spring through fall, grubGONE! works not only against first-instar grubs but also against larger and hardier second- and third-instar grubs. It thus reduces populations of destructive grubs during spring-summer and helps to reduce secondary foraging in summer-fall.

Price: $69.99 (10-lb. bag)

Source: beetlegone.com

Target the Pest, Not the Rest®

• Controls the grub (larva) of all scarab beetles and other listed turf insects.
• Does NOT harm beneficials (bees, butterflies, earthworms, ladybugs).
• Does NOT put your children or pets at risk like the chemical products do.
• Does NOT contaminate groundwater, ponds, creeks.
• Target grubs with the high-performing, natural protein BTG that kills turf grubs within days.
• Adding to the power of BTG are 1,000 times more spores per pound than other biological,
  microbial, nonchemical products.
• No need to sacrifice the high performance of leading chemicals for safety.
• Much higher performance than oils, nematodes, and milky spore products.
• Higher performing than the ground and water-contaminating chemical chlorantraniliprole products.

Targeted insect pests include: scarab beetle grubs and adults such as Japanese beetle, Asiatic garden beetle, European chafer, rose chafer, May or June beetle, northern masked chafer, southern masked chafer, black turfgrass ataenius, green June beetle, oriental beetle; leaf beetles such as rice and alder leaf; weevils such as annual bluegrass, sweet potato, pepper, pecan, citrus/strawberry root and other root weevils; flea beetle, borers such as emerald ash borer, gold spotted oak borer, and soap berry borer; and darkling beetles.

Bluestone Perennials

New varieties for 2024

‘Violet Profusion’ Salvia

Hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees—oh my! This salvia is a blooming machine. Violet-blue spires on rosy-purple stalks highlight the dense emerald-green foliage. ‘Violet Profusion’ is hands down one of the very best perennial salvias for consistent rebloom.

Source: bluestoneperennials.com/SAVP

‘Sweet Sandia’ Coneflower

Unexpected bicolor flowers are luscious pink tipped in pistachio green. Featuring daisylike flowers with broad petals, this coneflower is aptly named Sandia, which means “watermelon” in Spanish. A long-blooming sweet summer treat.

Source: bluestoneperennials.com/ECSW

Belarina® Spring Sun Primrose

Goodbye winter and hello sunshine! Primroses in bloom are a sure indicator that spring is here. Ruffled sunny yellow flowers blanket the crisp emerald-green, deeply-veined foliage. The sizable double blossoms bloom profusely throughout the spring season.

Source: bluestoneperennials.com/PRBS

Camassia spp.

The comeliest members of the asparagus family, Asparagaceae, camas aka wild hyacinths (Camassia spp.), look more like lilies than any vegetable I’ve ever known.

If you examine the leaves, the family resemblance becomes a little clearer. Arising from an underground bulb, the leaves are long, slender, and strap-shaped in appearance

Before they open, the flowers look a little bit like the spear of an asparagus.

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The taxonomic debate over where to classify this beautiful bulb has been long and tiring. The genus was previously classified in the Liliaceae or lily family, and after DNA sequencing, it was reclassified as part of the Asparagaceae family.

There are six species in the Camassia genus, and they hail primarily from the western region of North America, all the way from northwestern Canada to southern California and Texas. One species, C. scilloides, is native to the eastern half of the United States.

These different species are often referred to by the same common names which include camas, camas lily, Indian hyacinth, quamash, and wild hyacinth.

Tolerant of clay soils, partial shade, and hardy in USDA Zones 3 to 8, these bulbs generally perform best in organically-rich, evenly moist soils.

The tall flower spike that makes them such a sought-after garden plant is lined with delicate, six-petalled blooms, each sporting long, yellow-tipped stamens.

Whether you’re searching for pink, white, or blue flowers, or even variegated foliage, there are a number of different cultivars to choose from!

Read on to find out more about growing this late-spring bloomer. Here’s what I’ll cover:

Cultivation and History

There’s more to wild hyacinth than just a pretty face. This beautiful bulb has long been an important food staple of Indigenous American groups all across its native range.

According to Lewis and Clark’s diary of their famous expedition, the Nez Perce of Idaho fed the adventuring duo a meal of bison and wild hyacinth roots.

The meal may not have gone over well with their inexperienced stomachs, but the bulbs of these plants, when cooked slowly, are an excellent source of sweet-tasting fructose.

The Nez Perce were known to traditionally give bags of the bulbs as gifts at large ceremonies, such as weddings or funerals, or in exchange for other goods.

Family groups would travel large distances to harvest these plants. In the growing season the soft, tender leaves were used to make mattresses.

Annual, controlled burning was performed to maintain the open, prairie-like habitat these bulbs need to thrive and spread.

The adaptable common camas, C. quamash, was introduced to Europe for cultivation in 1850. The most widespread of the Camassia species, common camas reaches heights of about 18 inches and is hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

In horticulture, most cultivars are derived from C. leichtlinii, otherwise known as large camas. This species reaches mature heights of about four feet and is hardy in Zones 5 to 9.

Eastern camas aka wild hyacinth, C. scilloides, is the only Camassia species with white flowers and it’s hardy in Zones 4 to 8.

Although they’re still not as popular as many common European spring bulbs such as the cheery daffodil, they are among the few native spring bloomers that enjoy moist soils. That’s an important niche to fill!

Nowadays, wild camas are threatened by the loss of habitat as a result of development, the alteration of wildfire regimes, and competition from invasive species.

The large, untouched meadows in which these bulbs thrive are rapidly disappearing. Planting native species in our own backyard can play a small but vital role in helping to conserve and maintain these plants on the landscape.

Camassia Propagation

The good news is that there are several ways to get Camassia started in your own backyard.

The even better news is that these beautiful bulbs spread via offsets and can self seed on their own, too.

From Seed

If you’re up for a challenge, camas can be grown from seed. Make sure you’re in it for the long haul, however, as growing bulbs via this method takes years. You may have to wait up to four years before you can feast your eyes on a flower. 

You can collect seeds after the plants have finished flowering. If you choose to collect seed from a wild population, make sure you have permission to do so first.

When the seed capsules turn yellow or brown and are filled with firm, dark seeds, cut them off the plant and remove the seeds.

If you are collecting from the wild, take a maximum of 10 percent of available seed so that the wild creatures that depend on this food source won’t go hungry. It’s also important to leave enough seed behind so that natural dispersal can take place and new plants can grow.

Seeds from all Camassia species require a period of cold treatment, or stratification, to ensure germination. Periods of cold, wet weather help break down the hard coat surrounding the seed, enabling it to germinate.

Stratification can be done outside, if you live somewhere in the native range of these bulbs. If you live in colder or warmer regions, you’ll have to use the fridge instead.

Seeds purchased from plant nurseries or online will generally have been cold-stratified already, so check before you sow.

If you need to cold-stratify your seeds, place them in a moist paper towel in a plastic zip-top bag. Set them in the fridge for 90 days and keep the paper towel moist. Check periodically and discard any that develop mold.

When stratification is complete after 90 days, spread your seeds evenly across the surface of a seedling flat or gallon-sized pot filled with damp potting soil.

Lightly – and I mean lightly! – cover with moistened vermiculite or grit.

Germination requires spring-like temperatures, fluctuating between 50 to 70℉, and bright, indirect light. Don’t disturb your container or flat as the seedlings begin to emerge, and keep the soil moist, but not soaking wet.

Seedlings, which will look at first like teeny-tiny blades of grass, should be kept evenly moist with regular watering.

Once your seedlings reach a few inches high, which will take approximately a year, you can transplant them into a suitable, prepared location in the garden, or into larger, individual pots filled with moistened potting soil.

Dividing Offsets

Camassia species produce offsets, otherwise known as baby bulbs. In the wild, this is one of the primary ways these plants spread. If you or a friend have an existing clump of wild hyacinth, you can divide and transplant these offsets to another location.

Use a gardening fork to pry up a clump, taking care to not cut through or damage any bulbs. Brush the soil away from the bulbs, and gently peel off any new offsets.

Try to plant these offsets immediately so they don’t dry out.

Relocate them to places with the same basic conditions that allowed their parents to prosper: lots of water, sunlight, and rich, deep soil.

Transplanting Potted Plants

Bulbs are typically sold in large quantities, so if you want just a few camas lilies, see if you can find blooming, potted plants at a good quality nursery in the spring.

Bulbs generally do best planted during dormancy in the fall, but if you find potted specimens you can plant them out at any point during the growing season.

Site your new addition in an area of the garden with full sun to partial shade and rich, evenly moist soil.

Make sure to dig the hole just deep enough so that the plant sits at the same level as it was in its existing container. Gently remove the plant from the pot, set it in the hole and backfill with soil. Water in well.

From Bulbs

The best, easiest, and most popular way to get these stunning natives growing in your garden is to plant bulbs in the fall.

I like to plant all my bulbs after we have had a frost, so I know cold weather has truly arrived.

As a general rule of thumb, bulbs should be planted at twice the depth of their heights, with the pointy side facing up.

The different Camassia species have different sized bulbs, but most should be buried about five to six inches deep, and approximately the same length apart.

Plant your bulbs in moisture-retentive, deep, rich loam if you can.

As mentioned above, they can tolerate clay soils, or soils that are sandy and freely draining, but they won’t perform as well and will need regular watering.

How to Grow Camassia

Camas is a fairly low maintenance bulb so long as water supply is adequate in spring and summer, while the plant is actively growing.

Most species are cold hardy and can thrive in USDA Zones 4 to 8. Before planting, make sure you match the species you’ve chosen to your climatic zone.

Grow your camas plants in organically-rich, slightly acidic soil with a pH of around 6.0 to 7.0. If possible, plant them in full sun but they will be fine in partial shade.

Although species in the Camassia genus can tolerate dry conditions for a little while, they will need regular watering in the spring and summer months in the absence of rain, particularly if they are growing in freely-draining soils. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.

The way I water my camas plants is to turn the hose on to just a trickle, and leave it at the base of the plants for a couple of hours.

If you’ve planted these bulbs en masse and watering by hand is difficult, make sure to situate them where moisture will remain consistent regardless of rainfall.

Once bulbs have gone dormant, usually towards the end of summer, the soil can be allowed to dry out a little.

For these flowers, the richer the soil, the better. If your plants are growing in average to poor soils they won’t perform well and may eventually die.

A thick top dressing of compost in spring and fall will help boost the organic content of average soils. Add three inches to the soil and water it in well so nutrients trickle down to the roots.

Maybe you have a wet meadow just longing for some color? A low spot that retains a bit of moisture through spring and early summer? Or a border, with rich, deep soil? These areas are all perfect for Camassia.

Growing Tips

• Plant in rich, evenly moist soils.
• Site in a location with full sun, though plants will tolerate a little afternoon shade.
• Water well during any dry periods, especially during the growing season.
• Top dress site with compost in spring and fall if growing in lean soil.

Pruning and Maintenance

When grown in optimal conditions, Camassia plants are virtually maintenance-free.

Just don’t forget to water, water, water if there’s no rain in the forecast. The soil moisture level is particularly important in spring through summer, when the plant is actively growing.

You can remove old leaves in late summer when they’ve turned yellow and are easy to pull off, but in naturalized areas just let them naturally degrade, providing organic material for the soil.

Don’t be tempted to trim off the foliage while it’s still green. Even though the flowers may be done blooming, the leaves are still performing the critical work of making food to store in their underground bulb for next year’s display.

Fall is the perfect time to divide mature clumps of bulbs, too. If dividing bulbs isn’t your thing, don’t do it! Camas will slowly spread with or without your help.

Camassia Cultivars to Select

One of the only native North American spring bulbs, Camassia species are still, strangely, not commonly found in landscaping.

However, there’s plenty of diversity in the genus and a number of interesting cultivars to choose from.

Blue Heaven

‘Blue Heaven’ is a C. leichtlinii cultivar that features pale, pastel blue flowers atop two- to three-foot flower stalks.

‘Blue Heaven’

You can find ‘Blue Heaven’ bulbs available at Burpee.

Blue Melody

A C. quamash cultivar, ‘Blue Melody’ has dark blue flowers that contrast beautifully with the yellow stamens and bright green, slightly variegated leaves.

Plants top out at one to two feet tall.

‘Blue Melody’

You can find packages of 20 bulbs available from Caribbean Garden Seed via Walmart.

Pink Star

‘Pink Star’ is a C. leichtlinii cultivar with pale pink, almost salmon colored flowers. This cultivar tops out at about two and a half feet tall.

Sacajawea

‘Sacajawea’ is one of the most prolific white-flowering C. leichtlinii cultivars.

This cultivar grows to approximately three feet high. The flowers are off-white and the leaves variegated.

Managing Pests and Disease

Like many native plants, there’s not much that bothers camas in the pest or disease department.

What a welcome relief when so many popular bulbs, like the lilies, have quite the opposite experience!

Herbivores

While wild hyacinth is nobody’s favorite snack, moose, elk and deer do occasionally graze members of the Camassia genus, particularly in early spring.

Burrowing rodents such as gophers can dig bulbs up to eat but often end up replanting and spreading the bulbs inadvertently if they forget where they stored their underground cache.

Insects

Plenty of insects rely on wild hyacinth for pollen and nectar, particularly in spring when it’s one of the first flowers out in abundance, but few bugs, if any, do damage that need concern a gardener.

Not even slugs and snails that generally love the moist places these bulbs grow seem to cause any damage.

Disease

Miracle of miracles, Camassia is amazingly disease free, too!

Of course problems with these bulbs can and do arise but issues typically have to do with moisture – either a lack thereof or soils that are too waterlogged.

Waterlogged conditions can cause bulb rot and eventually kill the plant.

In general, issues with moisture can result in decreased blooming, smaller bulbs, and in severe drought or waterlogging, death of the plant. Remember, evenly moist conditions are the key to success.

Best Uses for Camassia

Without a doubt, wild hyacinth is at its best when allowed to fill vast swaths of green space. If you have the land, think about emulating how this plant grows in the wild, blue flowers mirroring blue sky.

White or pink cultivated varieties look wonderful when they are mass planted, too, but the blue flowering species such as C. quamash are the best naturalizers.

If you don’t have a spot where Camassia can freely naturalize, that’s ok too. The iridescent flowers look wonderful in a spring border, or even as a seasonal display in a pot.

Try the white or pink flowering wild hyacinths in broad swaths in a wide bed. The blossoms of all species and cultivars make great cut flowers, too.

Quick Reference Growing Guide

Plant Type:	Perennial flowering bulb	Flower/Foliage Color:	Blue, white, pink/light green
Native to:	North America	Tolerance:	Clay soil, drought, deer, diseases
Hardiness (USDA Zone):	4-9, depending on the species	Maintenance:	Low
Bloom Time:	Late spring to early summer	Soil Type:	Organically-rich, moist loam
Exposure:	Full sun to partial afternoon shade	Soil pH:	6.0-7.0
Time to Maturity:	3-5 years	Soil Drainage:	Well-draining
Spacing:	5-6 inches	Attracts:	Bees, beetles, birds, butterflies, hummingbirds, wasps
Planting Depth:	4-6 inches deep (bulbs), surface of the soil (seeds), same depth as container (transplants)	Uses:	Garden bed, naturalized areas, wildlife garden, rain garden, cut flower.
Height:	1-4 feet	Order:	Asparagales
Spread:	6 inches	Family:	Asparagaceae
Water Needs:	Moderate-high (spring and summer), moderate-low (dormancy)	Genus:	Camassia
Common Pests and Diseases:	Slugs and snails; bulb rot	Species:	Angusta, cusickii, howelii, leichtlinii, quamash, scilloides

Wonderful Wild Hyacinth

Perfect for moist spots where other bulbs can’t grow, wild hyacinth is a good choice for the eco-friendly, native plant gardener.

If you have the space, let them spread out and enjoy an abundant spring display.

Have you ever grown wild hyacinth or seen it blooming in the wild? Which species do you love the most?

Tell us how how your plants at home are doing, where they’re growing, and what pollinators you’ve seen enjoying them. Have you ever eaten a Camassia bulb? Let us know in the comments section below!

And to learn more about other spring flowering bulbs, check out these guides next:

Spring is the start of it all—the time when everything you have dreamed about since last year becomes possible. These possibilities come alive with your first plant picks of the season. Reliable, hardy foliage, rather than delicate, fickle flowers, has always been my first choice when creating a container arrangement. Another factor I consider when choosing plants is finding the right ones for the right situations; no plant will thrive in unsatisfactory conditions. 

With these basic ideas in mind, you can start your spring-container combinations in a variety of ways, but two approaches seem the easiest to me. You can shop for plants and then go find a suitable container, or you can have a gorgeous container and then go look for the perfect plants to go in it. Whichever way you choose to start, picking plants and con­tainers that inspire you is a sure way to create something fabulous.

Fragrant flowers sweeten the pot

You can never go wrong with fragrance. A pot of cyclamen and nemesia always draws my friends and visitors over to take a sniff. These plants love and appreciate the cool spring weather. Adding evergreen corkscrew rush creates a linear form with year-round appeal—just change up its partners. In the summer months, corkscrew rush mixes well with low-growing annuals of all kinds, like dwarf lantana and alternanthera. 

1. ‘Quartz Creek’ corkscrew rush (Juncus effusus ‘Quartz Creek’, USDA Hardiness Zones 4–9)
2. Cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum cv., annual)
3. Compact Innocence^® nemesia (Nemesia fruticans ‘Tiktoc’, annual)
4. Variegated English ivy (Hedera helix* cv., Zones 5–11)

Jazz up the usual suspects

Three or four plants are all it takes to make a great combo. In this combination, the colorful, cool pastel mounds of pansy and African daisy are separated and enlivened with spiky sweet flag. ‘Goldilocks’ creeping Jenny adds a final touch of bright color spilling over the container’s rim. Using the classic rule of three—a thriller, a filler, and a spiller—is still the safest and most popular recipe for successful mixes.

1. Soprano^® Purple African daisy (Osteospermum ‘Osoutis’, annual)
2. Pansy (Viola × wittrockiana cv., Zones 8–11)
3. ‘Ogon’ Japanese sweet flag (Acorus gramineus ‘Ogon’, Zones 6–9)
4. ‘Goldilocks’ creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia* ‘Goldilocks’, Zones 4–8) 

A unique pot inspires a creative theme

Specialized pots create an opportunity for unique combos. Some of the newest and most popular containers available are made to look aged and are often molded into the unique shape of tree trunks, logs, and branches. I filled this faux-bois (false-wood) container with iris, fern, and begonia to keep with that natural, woodsy feel. Unique containers like this don’t need a lot of fussy plants. The simplest approach is sometimes the most effective.

1. ‘Lady in Red’ fern (Athyrium filix-femina ‘Lady in Red’, Zones 4–9)
2. Variegated roof iris (Iris tectorum ‘Variegata’, Zones 5–9)
3. ‘Silver Jewel’ begonia (Begonia ‘Silver Jewel’, Zones 9–11)
4. ‘Fantasia’ variegated English ivy (Hedera helix* ‘Fantasia’, Zones 5–11)

Containers can be focal points

The container came first in this combo. I chose the unusually tall, thin form of variegated boxwood to set off the slender shape of the pot, while the color scheme was designed to enhance the beautiful patina of the container. I don’t recommend covering up attractive or decorative containers with a lot of pendulous plants—or else you’ll never see the pot. You can add one or two trailers for extra eye appeal, if you can keep them under control and clip them back from time to time.

1. Sundew Springs™ lysimachia (Lysimachia Sundew Springs™, annual)
2. ‘Chapel Hill Gold’ lantana (Lantana camara* ‘Chapel Hill Gold’, Zone 11)
3. Variegated boxwood (Buxus sempervirens ‘Variegata’, Zones 6–8)
4. ‘Silvery Sun-proof’ liriope (Liriope muscari ‘Silvery Sunproof’, Zones 6–10)

One person’s junk is another person’s treasure

Almost anything can be a container, with antiques, junk, and handmade objects being used to hold plant treasures. My old, crumbly birdbath doesn’t hold water very well anymore, so I decided to showcase some large succulents in it. I thought that if I planned for light and dark colors, soft and rough textures, and short and tall specimens, I could create a lovely scene and show off my old antique at the same time.

1. Sedum (Sedum cv., Zones 6–11)
2. Ghost plant (Graptopetalum paraguayense, Zone 11)
3. Hens and chicks (Sempervivum sp., Zones 4–11)
4. ‘Ogon’ sedum (Sedum makinoi ‘Ogon’, Zones 6–9)
5. Variegated mini jade plant (Portulacaria afra ‘Variegata’, Zones 10–11) 

Add life with bold colors

When I put my first flowering containers together for the season, I want them to stand out. I like to use colors that grab me and say, ‘Hey, take a look!’ The fleshy ‘Red Flash’ caladium is the perfect plant to start with, followed by some colorful impatiens and plectranthus for a little chartreuse touch around the bottom; the lime green color makes all other colors seem more vibrant.

1. ‘Red Flash’ caladium (Caladium bicolor ‘Red Flash’, Zones 10–11)
2. ‘Rita’s Gold’ Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata ‘Rita’s Gold’, Zones 10–11)
3. ‘Troy’s Gold’ plectranthus (Plectranthus ciliatus ‘Troy’s Gold’, Zones 10–11)
4. Dazzler™ Mix impatiens (Impatiens walleriana Dazzler™ Mix, annual)

Recycled foliage does the job

Don’t trash all of your plants during fall cleanup. Foliage that can hang on throughout the year should be overwintered so that you can recycle it in spring. The glistening silvery foliage of this evergreen bush germander and ‘Silvery Sunproof’ liriope have been saved from last fall, but you wouldn’t know it by looking at them. You can jazz up a foliage planting with cold-hardy flowering annuals, like petunia and marguerite daisy, which easily tuck in between persistent perennials. 

1. Bush germander (Teucrium fruticans, Zones 8–9)
2. Supertunia^® Vista Silverberry petunia (Petunia ‘USTUNI60-01M’, annual)
3. Cabana^® Trailing Blue bacopa (Sutera cordata ‘Sutcatrabl’, annual)
4. Molimba^® Mini Double White marguerite daisy (Argyranthemum frutes­cens ‘Argymidowi’, annual)
5. ‘Silvery Sunproof’ liriope (Liriope muscari ‘Silvery Sunproof’, Zones 6–10)

Bowls are remarkably versatile

Low bowls work anywhere that their full lushness can be appreciated—especially when used as tabletop centerpieces. Calm-colored flowers mingled with soft, mounding foliage create a beautiful place for your eyes to rest. The key here is to avoid plants or containers that could obstruct your view; after all, not all containers have to be big and tall.

1. Compact Innocence^® nemesia (Nemesia fruticans ‘Tiktoc’, annual)
2. ‘Evergold’ sedge (Carex oshimensis ‘Evergold’, Zones 6–9)
3. Irish moss (Sagina subulata, Zones 4–7)
4. Wire vine (Muehlenbeckia axillaris, Zones 8–10)
5. Violas (Viola cvs., Zones 7–10)
6. ‘Black Scallop’ ajuga (Ajuga reptans* ‘Black Scallop’, Zones 3–9)
7. ‘Icicles’ licorice plant (Helichrysum thianschanicum ‘Icicles’, Zones 10–11)
8. ‘Citronelle’ heuchera (Heuchera villosa ‘Citronelle’, Zones 4–9)

Waterwise plants make great combos

Ornamental pineapple is a favorite of mine because of its striking color, its dramatic stature, and its easy nature. It requires the same well-drained soil as succulents, so you can leave it alone when you go on trips and it will still be alive when you get back. This combo mixes curving lines with bold spikes and cool blues with neon greens, and lets the ornamental pineapple create a dark, bold, central statement.

1. Ornamental pineapple (Ananas sp., Zones 10–11)
2. Ghost plant (Graptopetalum paraguayense, Zone 11)
3. ‘Black Gem’ aloe (Aloe ‘Black Gem’, Zones 10–11)
4. Senecio (Senecio sp., Zones 9–11)
5. ‘Ogon’ sedum (Sedum makinoi ‘Ogon’, Zones 6–9)
6. ‘Golden Girl’ panda plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa ‘Golden Girl’, Zone 11)
7. Pencil tree (Euphorbia tirucalli, Zone 11)
8. Variegated mini jade plant (Portulacaria afra ‘Variegata’, Zones 10–11)

Fresh start, fresh techniques

I’ve been hungry for spring all winter long. Now that the ground is beginning to warm, I can’t wait any longer to get my hands dirty. I start off my routine with recycled greenery, like a few mature plants that I’ve safely harbored indoors over the winter and evergreen perennials that I always keep around outdoors. I then scramble over to my collection of empty pots to start matching them up. By adding in a few annuals, I have full containers in no time. Here are some techniques to get your containers off to a healthy start.

Make plants thrive in the right potting mix

A high-quality potting medium is of the utmost importance if you want your plants to do more than merely survive, but it’s seldom found for sale in just one bag. I rou­tinely use several products in my potting media. The major ingredients are a bark-based mix, a little peat moss, coir (coconut fibers), and compost. I add sand and perlite to increase air circulation and drainage. Depending on what I’m planting, I usually finish off by adding an organic fertilizer to my containers. Here is my basic recipe:

• 1 part bark-based mix
• 1 part peat moss
• 1 part compost
• 1 part perlite
• 1 part sand

Try gravel for great drainage and a perfect finishing touch

It’s common for most gardeners to grab a few stones or pieces of broken clay pots to cover the hole in the bottom of a container. I add a little gravel or broken pottery over the hole just so that it doesn’t get clogged with dirt and leave my plants’ roots swimming in stale water. If I am growing succulents, I also add gravel to the potting soil for even better drainage. I then top-dress the container with a little more gravel, using blue-gray or warm, earth tone–colored stones. This not only is attractive but also keeps water and soil from splashing onto my plants. This final benefit is especially important if you are growing succulents.The last thing you want to do is use more water to wash dirt off their leaves.

Fill the void in large pots to save on soil

Oversize or extraheavy containers can be soil hogs, but you can save on potting mix and give your back a reprieve by finding the perfect-size, lightweight plastic pot to fit into your jumbo pot (photo right). If you’re potting up a container where the sidewalls taper uniformly, you can often save on soil volume and spare the extra plastic pot by lifting up the floor of your decorative container with a false bottom made expressly for this purpose (photo below); one such planter insert is Ups-A-Daisy (ups-a-daisy.com). This product still allows proper drainage for your plants, can be kept year after year, and is available at most garden centers. It doesn’t fit straight-sided pots, however, so you might need to fill the void in those containers with plastic jugs.

Design Tips

Use containers to brighten outdoor tabletops

The plants in a tabletop container should have the same effect as an interesting conversationalist: captivating but not obtrusive. Otherwise, the container runs the risk of being removed from the table.

Selecting plants for a tabletop container can be frustrating: If, for example, the plants grow too tall, the container often has to be set to one side as people sit down to talk. Dwarf or slow-growing plants are, therefore, the way to go. Containers can be small, alpine-looking troughs or naturalistic combinations. Some arrangements can be more formal depending on the choice of flowers and the container. The options are endless, but done right, these tabletop designs will always draw admiring looks—even from the designer.

Use your design instinct to pair spring plants

Choosing the right plants to go together is a lot like shopping for a scarf to go with a blouse and jacket, or looking for a tie to match to a shirt. If the colors blend and the textures complement one another, then you know when it’s right. If the combo screams “No,” then put a plant back and try something else. If you don’t think your instinct is on par, mimic color combos you see other gardeners pulling off.

*These plants are considered invasive in some areas. Please check invasiveplantatlas.org or your state’s list of invasive plants for more information.