And they brought Jesus to the high priest; and all the priests and the scribes and the ancients assembled together. And Peter followed him from afar off, even into the court of the high priest; and he sat with the servants at the fire, and warmed himself. And the chief priests and all the council sought for evidence against Jesus, that they might put him to death, and found none.
For many bore false witness against him, and their evidences were not agreeing. And some rising up, bore false witness against him, saying: We heard him say, I will destroy this temple made with hands, and within three days I will build another not made with hands. And their witness did not agree. And the high priest rising up in the midst, asked Jesus, saying: Answerest thou nothing to the things that are laid to thy charge by these men?
But he held his peace, and answered nothing. Again the high priest asked him, and said to him: Art thou the Christ the Son of the blessed God? And Jesus said to him: I am. And you shall see the Son of man sitting on the right hand of the power of God, and coming with the clouds of heaven. Then the high priest rending his garments, saith: What need we any further witnesses? You have heard the blasphemy. What think you? Who all condemned him to be guilty of death. And some began to spit on him, and to cover his face, and to buffet him, and to say unto him: Prophesy: and the servants struck him with the palms of their hands.
Now when Peter was in the court below, there cometh one of the maidservants of the high priest. And when she had seen Peter warming himself, looking on him she saith: Thou also wast with Jesus of Nazareth. But he denied, saying: I neither know nor understand what thou sayest. And he went forth before the court; and the cock crew. And again a maidservant seeing him, began to say to the standers by: This is one of them. But he denied again. And after a while they that stood by said again to Peter: Surely thou art one of them; for thou art also a Galilean.
But he began to curse and to swear, saying; I know not this man of whom you speak. And immediately the cock crew again. And Peter remembered the word that Jesus had said unto him: Before the cock crow twice, thou shalt thrice deny me. And he began to weep.
And straightway in the morning, the chief priests holding a consultation with the ancients and the scribes and the whole council, binding Jesus, led him away, and delivered him to Pilate. And Pilate asked him: Art thou the king of the Jews? But he answering, saith to him: Thou sayest it. 3 And the chief priests accused him in many things. And Pilate again asked him, saying: Answerest thou nothing? behold in how many things they accuse thee. But Jesus still answered nothing; so that Pilate wondered.
Now on the festival day he was wont to release unto them one of the prisoners, whomsoever they demanded. And there was one called Barabbas, who was put in prison with some seditious men, who in the sedition had committed murder. And when the multitude was come up, they began to desire that he would do, as he had ever done unto them. And Pilate answered them, and said: Will you that I release to you the king of the Jews? For he knew that the chief priests had delivered him up out of envy.
But the chief priests moved the people, that he should rather release Barabbas to them. And Pilate again answering, saith to them: What will you then that I do to the king of the Jews? But they again cried out: Crucify him. And Pilate saith to them: Why, what evil hath he done? But they cried out the more: Crucify him. And so Pilate being willing to satisfy the people, released to them Barabbas, and delivered up Jesus, when he had scourged him, to be crucified.
And the soldiers led him away into the court of the palace, and they called together the whole band: And they clothe him with purple, and platting a crown of thorns, they put it upon him. And they began to salute him: Hail, king of the Jews. And they struck his head with a reed: and they did spit on him. And bowing their knees, they adored him. And after they had mocked him, they took off the purple from him, and put his own garments on him, and they led him out to crucify him.
And they forced one Simon a Cyrenian who passed by, coming out of the country, the father of Alexander and of Rufus, to take up his cross. And they bring him into the place called Golgotha, which being interpreted is, The place of Calvary. And they gave him to drink wine mingled with myrrh; but he took it not. And crucifying him, they divided his garments, casting lots upon them, what every man should take. And it was the third hour, and they crucified him.
And the inscription of his cause was written over: THE KING OF THE JEWS. And with him they crucify two thieves; the one on his right hand, and the other on his left. And the scripture was fulfilled, which saith: And with the wicked he was reputed. And they that passed by blasphemed him, wagging their heads, and saying: Vah, thou that destroyest the temple of God, and in three days buildest it up again; Save thyself, coming down from the cross.
In like manner also the chief priests mocking, said with the scribes one to another: He saved others; himself he cannot save. Let Christ the king of Israel come down now from the cross, that we may see and believe. And they that were crucified with him reviled him. And when the sixth hour was come, there was darkness over the whole earth until the ninth hour. And at the ninth hour, Jesus cried out with a loud voice, saying: Eloi, Eloi, lamma sabacthani? Which is, being interpreted, My God, my God, why hast thou forsaken me? And some of the standers by hearing, said: Behold he calleth Elias.
And one running and filling a sponge with vinegar, and putting it upon a reed, gave him to drink, saying: Stay, let us see if Elias come to take him down. And Jesus having cried out with a loud voice, gave up the ghost. And the veil of the temple was rent in two, from the top to the bottom. And the centurion who stood over against him, seeing that crying out in this manner he had given up the ghost, said: Indeed this man was the son of God. And there were also women looking on afar off: among whom was Mary Magdalen, and Mary the mother of James the less and of Joseph, and Salome:
Who also when he was in Galilee followed him, and ministered to him, and many other women that came up with him to Jerusalem. And when evening was now come, (because it was the Parasceve, that is, the day before the sabbath,) Joseph of Arimathea, a noble counsellor, who was also himself looking for the kingdom of God, came and went in boldly to Pilate, and begged the body of Jesus. But Pilate wondered that he should be already dead. And sending for the centurion, he asked him if he were already dead. And when he had understood it by the centurion, he gave the body to Joseph.
And Joseph buying fine linen, and taking him down, wrapped him up in the fine linen, and laid him in a sepulchre which was hewed out of a rock. And he rolled a stone to the door of the sepulchre. And Mary Magdalen, and Mary the mother of Joseph, beheld where he was laid.
While we were working on our book Remodelista in Maine with the photojournalist Greta Rybus, Greta let us in on a project she was working on: a book documenting hot springs, public baths, and soaking spots the world over. We’ve been awaiting the publication of Hot Springs ever since, and as of this month it’s officially out in the world—researched, written, and photographed by Greta, who traveled to five continents and thirteen countries, from Iceland to Bolivia, Turkey to Japan, Alaska to Hungary, to make it.
Some hot springs, Greta writes in the book’s introduction, “feel like a party, others like a prayer,” but each offers the opportunity to be present, to be in community, and to reconnect with our place in nature. (One of Greta’s notes on soaking ethics at some of the wilder locations: “Remember that you are the caretaker for that moment.”)
To celebrate the book’s launch, we’re sharing a glimpse inside Hot Springs (which, rich in blues and greens, feels as serene and all-consuming as a soak, even when you’re on dry land), plus a Q+A with Greta.
Photography from Hot Springs: Photos and Stories of How the World Soaks, Swims, and Slows Down by Greta Rybus, courtesy of Ten Speed Press.
Above: The Seljavallalaud Swimming Pool in Iceland.
Remodelista: What’s your first hot spring memory?
Greta Rybus: Growing up in Idaho, hot springs were a really big part of my childhood. Idaho has many different type of geothermal pools: from wild ones in riverbanks to ones that look like swimming pools. I have two distinct memories of being in large hot pools with my arms in water wings. I can remember the smell of the sulfur and that plasticky smell of the water wings and their slight pinch on my arms.
Above: Therme Vals in Switzerland is “an austere, brutalist shrine to hot water,” Greta writes in the book, designed by the Swiss architect Peter Zumthor and built “from sixty thousand slabs of granite from local quarries.”
RM: How many hot springs did you visit while making the book?
GR: I lost count! I went through my notes and files last week and counted between sixty to seventy hot springs, depending on how I was to make that tally. There are 23 chapters in the book, divided by location. But some feature individual hot springs, and others explore entire regions with many hot pools or baths. There are thirteen countries represented across five continents. I tried hard to represent the diversity of thermal places: the hues of the water, the cultural connections, their roles in cities and remote places, how they are cared for and managed by so many, the different ways people experience them.
Above: Therme Vals. Photography is forbidden inside, but Greta obtained permission to photograph during cleaning, which lent an intimate view on another side of bathing culture: “The cleaners are specialists in caring for the granite and the water and the metal detailing,” Greta writes in the book. “They use special cloths and sprays for each surface, and they explained their careful techniques, how it took trial and error to figure it out. I thought about how our sacred, special places require work and maintenance…It requires figuring it out together, navigating each other, and tedious, quiet labor. That’s the ritual, too.” (Greta also noted in, in a recent Instagram Story, the care that her cameras required while working in such steamy environments, too.)
RM: What’s the furthest you traveled while making the book?
My name is David Smith-Harrison, and I began observing and nurturing plants at a young age. I love watching plants grow. I started drawing and painting plants and trees as a young artist. Flowers, plants, and gardens continue to inspire my professional artwork. I am currently nurturing and growing a garden in Magna, Utah, which is on the very western edge of the Salt Lake Valley nestled up against the Oquirrh Mountains. Before that, I lived and gardened in the San Francisco Bay Area for over 25 years, where gardening seemed effortless compared to gardening in Utah.
Incredible double-flowered azaleas (Rhododendron hybrids, Zones 7–10) feature their layer upon-layer of sugar-pink petals.
A bromeliad (probably a variety of Guzamania, Zones 10–11) shows off red leaves. Rather than producing large, showy flowers, many bromeliads have leaves that flush bright colors as they get ready to bloom to attract pollinators to the usually small, less noticeable blooms.
A citrus tree is loaded with ripening fruit and opening flower buds.
A view of the Conservatory of Flowers from the outside.
Inside the conservatory, dark green leaves of bird’s nest fern (Aspleniumnidus, Zones 10–11) are paired here with the pink blooms of a flowering quince (Chaenomeles speciosa, Zones 4–8).
You can’t have a conservatory without orchids blooming. This looks to be the lovely Nun’s cap orchid (Phaiustankervilleae, Zones 10–11).
A whole planting of Nun’s cap orchids blooms together.
Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis, Zones 10–11) bloom behind lush tropical greenery.
Pink moth orchids have become widely available and affordable, making it easier to enjoy their beauty at home.
This stunning orchid looks like Dendrobiumnobile (Zones 10–11).
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
Sicily is a unique destination. Stunning landscapes, exquisite cuisine, and rich history are its key characteristics, attracting travellers from all over the world who are keen to experience its many charms.
For the ultimate escape, one option is to rent luxury pool villas in Sicily for holidays. These allow you to easily access privacy and comfort for a relaxing and sophisticated vacation. Luxury villas with swimming pools provide the perfect base from which to explore the unspoiled landscape and the ever-welcoming Mediterranean climate of this beautiful Italian island.
Luxury villas in Sicily: exquisite features and benefits
A villa that provides top-notch amenities is one of the primary considerations when planning a luxury vacation in Sicily. This ensures an unequalled experience during your stay. Sicily’s luxury villas are a perfect travel solution for individuals looking for exclusivity, comfort, and sophistication.
Nestled in stunning locations, luxury villas in Sicily can provide breathtaking views of the picturesque countryside, the Mediterranean Sea, historic towns, and more.
With their high-end exteriors and spacious interiors, luxury Sicilian villas offer a sanctuary where you can comfortably relax. Also, they allow you to immerse yourself in the beauty of the island. Numerous styles are available, ranging from contemporary architectural masterpieces to charming traditional villas.
Most luxury villas in Sicily boast the following features:
Private swimming pool
Expansive terraces
Lush gardens
Ample outdoor space
Stunning views
Proximity to attractions
Fully equipped kitchens
Sicily’s local attractions
Sicily boasts a vast array of activities and experiences. For example, a luxury villa holiday can allow you to indulge in thrilling adventures on Mount Etna, enjoy the crystal-clear waters of the Ionian Sea, or explore the flavours of local Sicilian cuisine. The island is also home to some great events, including the Almond Blossom Festival and the li Schietti Festival.
Sicily’s climate is attractive too. It’s hot in the summer and mild in the winter months, with yearly average temperatures of around 18o. Mountainous destinations feature a harsher climate with noticeable temperature variations and frequent rainfall.
Planning a trip to Sicily? Here are some key tips
The best time to visit Sicily is between May and November. You can enjoy the warm climate and the rarity of rainfall, allowing for unobstructed exploration of the island’s historical wonders and natural beauty.
The island’s six airports, with direct flights to and from well-known European destinations, have got you covered. You can also reach Sicily by train and boat.
Sicily boasts remarkable archaeological treasures, including Mount Etna, Syracuse, Valley of the Temples, Taormina, and Palermo.
Sicily is generally safe, but some neighbourhoods and regions are known for higher crime rates, including Brancaccio and Ballarò. It’s also worth remembering that the island is susceptible to volcanic eruptions and earthquakes.
To make the most of a trip to Sicily, it’s worth considering a local tour guide. These can help you explore all that this fantastic destination has to offer and take the hassle out of your adventures.
Could Sicily be the perfect choice for your next villa holiday?
Growing zucchini at home is a great way to enjoy a productive vegetable in your summer garden.
But before you can reap the rewards of these prolific plants, you’ll need to learn how to care for them.
This complete guide to growing zucchini will help you learn everything you need to have the best success. Get tips on soil, water, sun, fertilizer, pests, harvesting, and more.
The plant is native to Mexico and Central America, but its easy-growing nature and high productivity have made it a favorite in home gardens worldwide.
It’s a hot-weather crop with a single central stem, many side stems, and wide, veined leaves.
Different Types
Zucchini is a type of summer squash, and there are several varieties that vary in color, shape, and growth habits.
Vining plants require trellising, but many varieties are bush-style, which are ideal for small spaces and containers. No matter which one you grow, they all require the same care. Here are a few popular varieties:
‘Dark Beauty’ – This non-vining variety has dark green, smooth-skinned fruits that are ready within 7-9 weeks, and have firm, white flesh with great flavor.
‘Patio Star’ – The bush-style compact nature of this small variety produces an abundance of 7” fruits ready to pick in 40 days or less.
‘Costa Romanesque’ – This option produces light green, ribbed fruit with vertical pale green stripes. It’s very heat-tolerant, and the fruit is tender, even when oversized.
‘Ronde de Nice’ –This French heirloom has round, globe-shaped fruits that are unique and fun. The fruit is tender and ready in about 7-9 weeks.
Yellow zucchini growing in my garden
How Does Zucchini Grow?
Zucchini plants grow male and female blossoms, which are both required for them to produce fruit.
Female flowers have a small baby zucchini at the base, rather than a thin stem, and once pollinated, it will mature into a full-sized fruit.
Baby zucchini starting to form
How To Grow Zucchini
Before discussing specific care steps, let’s chat about when and where to grow zucchini. Choosing the right time and location is important for success.
Where To Grow Zucchini
Zucchini can grow in the ground, raised beds, or large containers as long as it’s in full sun and has fertile, well-drained soil.
Find a spot sheltered from the wind so bees and butterflies can easily reach the flowers. Placing them near flowering herbs, annuals, or perennials also improves the odds of pollination.
If planting in pots, choose a 5-gallon or larger container and ensure it has drainage holes to prevent overwatering.
When To Plant
Wait until all chances of frost have passed, and the soil is 60°F (15.5°C) or warmer before planting. You can use a temperature probe to check it.
If you live in a cold climate with short summers, you can lay black plastic mulch to warm the soil early. Or, start them indoors 2-3 weeks before the last frost date.
However, the most difficult pests are active in late spring, so you may want to hold off on planting until early summer to avoid them.
Young zucchini plants in a raised bed
Zucchini Plant Care & Growing Instructions
Now that you know where and when to start you zucchini, let’s discuss how to care for it as it grows. These tips will help you keep it healthy throughout the season.
Sunlight
Zucchini loves the sun and needs a minimum of 6 hours of direct exposure daily, but will do better with 8 or more.
Too much shade will result in a less productive plant, and high heat can lead to wilting. If you’re expecting a heatwave, you can use a shade cloth to the foliage from the most intense heat of the afternoon.
Water
Consistent, even moisture is key for a healthy zucchini crop. They need deep, thorough drinks, but don’t like to be overwatered.
Aim to provide at least 1” per week, or more in hot weather. The soil should feel moist to the touch but not be puddled or sodden, which can lead to rot, disease, and wilting. If you have trouble getting it right, use a soil moisture gauge to help.
Temperature
The ideal temperature range for growing zucchini is between 65-95°F (18.3-35°C). Cold weather will quickly kill them, and high heat will lead to wilting and possible sunburn on the leaves and exposed fruits.
Don’t try to plant them early, or the cold soil will stunt their growth. Provide afternoon shade if you live somewhere that experiences extreme heat throughout the summer.
Mature zucchini ready to harvest
Fertilizer
Zucchini will thrive best in fertile soil, but the occasional feeding from a balanced, organic fertilizer will benefit its productivity.
Use a liquid like compost tea or fish emulsion once per month throughout the season, or apply slow-release granules once per season. Even just the occasional side-dress with compost can be beneficial.
Soil
It’s important to start with nutrient-rich, well-draining soil that has a pH between 6.5 and 8.0. To improve fertility, amend garden soil with compost or worm castings and use a pH probe to check levels. If it’s acidic, use garden lime to neutralize it.
A high-quality potting mix containing peat moss, coco coir, and compost is ideal for containers. To improve drainage, add a few handfuls of perlite.
Pruning
Pruning Cucurbita pepo is unnecessary, but the occasional trim of lower leaves will improve airflow, make flowers more accessible for pollinators, and divert energy toward flowering and fruiting.
Use clean, sharp, precision pruners to snip off leaves below the lowest flower or developing fruit. The side stems are hollow, so trim them as close to the base as possible to avoid having open tubes that catch water or invite insects inside.
Two different sizes of zucchini growing
Trellising
Many zucchini varieties are bush-type, but a few can have vining or trailing growth. Both benefit from some sort of trellis or structure.
Plant vining varieties near a fence, tall stakes, or trellis to give them a structure to climb. Bush types don’t need a support, but you can gently time them to a structure as they grow taller or if your plant becomes overgrown.
Trellising your zucchini will also keep the leaves and fruits off the ground, reducing the risk of disease and pest issues, while making irrigation and harvesting easier.
Pest Control Tips
Unfortunately many pests think zucchini is just as delicious as we do. The main ones are squash bugs, borers, and cucumber beetles, but earwigs, slugs, snails, and aphids can sometimes be a problem.
Insecticidal soap is helpful for small infestations, but the easiest way to manage them is prevention. Use row covers over young plants to prevent the adult moths from laying eggs on the leaves.
Pluck larger insects off and put them in a bucket of soapy water. Then, check the leaves for eggs and smash or wash away any that you see.
Vine borers leave a mushy, yellow residue along the stem. If you catch it early enough, you can cut it from inside the vine. Then, pack dirt around the wound to let the stem heal and root.
Disease Control Tips
Three main diseases can affect your growing zucchini plant: powdery mildew, blossom end rot, and mosaic virus, which cucumber beetles carry.
Powdery mildew causes white spots on the leaves and stalls growth but you can manage it with an organic fungicide and proper watering practices.
Blossom end rot appears on the ends of developing fruit when you water unevenly, or have periods of rainfall followed by a dry spell. Make sure you’re consistent and regular about giving your plant deep drinks.
Unfortunately, the mosaic virus is incurable. It will appear as a yellow pattern on the leaves before the plant wilts and dies. Dig it up the plant and destroy it to prevent the disease from spreading.
Tips For Harvesting Zucchini
Your zucchini will be ready to harvest about 45-60 days after you plant it. Look for fruits between 6-8 inches long, and use sharp, sterile pruners to clip them off 1-2” above the stem so you don’t damage it.
Check back frequently after the first fruits develop. They can be ready in as few as four days after pollination. If the harvest is too much for you, slow it down by picking a few of the male flowers, which are also edible.
But don’t leave the fruit on for too long. The larger they get, the more watery and seedy they become. Be sure to pick everything, no matter the size, before the first frost of fall, which will destroy any remaining fruit.
Freshly picked zucchini from my garden
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Zucchini plants are known to be highly prolific and easy to grow, but are susceptible to the occasional problem. If any of these common issues occur, use these tips to address them.
Leaves Turning Yellow
Yellow leaves can indicate many things, including disease, pest problems, overwatering, and age.
Older leaves sometimes turn yellow and fall off, which is no reason for concern. However, if many turn yellow, it’s a sign that something is wrong. Ensure you’re not overwatering to the point of creating puddles in the soil, and look for signs of pest damage.
Mosaic virus will create a pattern, and powdery mildew will cause the leaves to turn yellow.
Leaves Turning Brown
Sunburn, drought, improper watering, bugs, and age are common causes of brown leaves. Old leaves, especially those on the ground, often die back naturally.
Wilting brown leaves can be a sign of drought or root rot. Dry, curling brown edges indicate insufficient water or sunburn during a heatwave, or a pest infestation.
Trim away affected leaves, check for bugs, then use shade cloth and careful watering practices to help rejuvenate your plant.
Zucchini Plant Collapsed Or Drooping
Vine borers and diseases like the mosaic virus or powdery mildew are the number one reasons zucchini plants collapse or wilt heavily.
Squash vine borers eat the stems from within; if you don’t catch them in time, the plant will collapse and die. If yours begins to wilt, look for yellow, mushy residue near the stem.
However, high heat can also cause wilting. In that case, water thoroughly, and you should see noticeable improvement when the temperature cools.
White Spots On Leaves
White, fuzzy spots on your zucchini leaves are a sign of powdery mildew. Drought stress and dry conditions aggravate it.
So ensure you’re irrigating consistently, at the base of the plant, and never allow the soil to dry out completely.
Unripe Fruit Falling Off
If the flowers aren’t pollinated, you’ll notice the baby fruits will shrivel and drop off.
You can hand-pollinate your squash flowers, try to attract more bees, or grow more than one plant to increase the odds of cross-pollination.
White powdery mildew on zucchini leaves
FAQs
How long does it take to grow zucchini?
The exact time it takes to grow zucchini depends on the variety and environmental conditions, but most are ready to harvest 45-60 days after planting.
Is zucchini easy to grow?
Zucchini is easy to grow in healthy, well-drained soil and a full sun location. Maintain proper watering practices, pollinate the female flowers, and watch for pests and diseases, and you’ll enjoy a productive, abundant harvest.
Do you need two zucchini plants to get fruit?
No, you don’t need two zucchini plants to get fruit because one will produce both the male and female flowers. However, male flowers often appear first or open at different times than females. So having more than one plant can increase the odds of successful pollination.
How do I make my zucchini plant produce more?
The best way to make your zucchini plant produce more is to feed it regularly with a balanced fertilizer, maintain consistent watering, and harvest the mature fruits frequently.
What is the secret to growing zucchini?
The secret to growing zucchini is lots of sun, warm weather, and water. Attract pollinators and manage destructive pests, and you’ll enjoy a healthy harvest.
If you’d like to learn how to make the most of your space and get as much homegrown food as possible, then my Vertical Vegetables book is perfect! It will teach you all you need to know, has tons of gorgeous photos, and includes 23 DIY projects you can build for your own garden. Order your copy today!
A home is more than just a place to live; it also reflects the characteristics and taste of its owner. As such, it’s only natural to want to update your home to align with your style preferences and current trends. Additionally, ensuring your home is as comfortable as possible allows you and your family to relax and enjoy the time you spend in it.
There are lots of things you can do to improve your home, ranging from installing wooden wall panels from akuwoodpanel.uk to upgrading your lighting system. Here are three simple ways to enhance the beauty of your home while also improving its functionality.
Install wooden wall panels
One way to upgrade your home is by installing wooden wall panels. These can truly transform a room, and their distinctive visuals are not the only advantage.
Wooden wall panels also function as natural insulators, creating a significantly more comfortable atmosphere in a room. Furthermore, they are available in many styles, textures, and colours, so you won’t have trouble finding a product that complements your overall home interior design.
Upgrade the lighting system
Another way to enhance the beauty of your home is by upgrading the lighting system.
The main purpose of lighting in your home is to ensure clear visibility, particularly at night. However, the lighting system has other important functions such as enhancing aesthetics, creating a certain ambience, and highlighting specific parts of your home.
Feel free to experiment with the lighting system in your home by combining ambient, task, and accent lighting to create layers of illumination. When using ambient lighting, make sure it doesn’t create harsh shadows. If you’re after a cosy background light, consider a recessed ceiling light that you can adjust with a dimmer switch to suit different times of day.
Update your interior design
Finally, you can easily enhance the beauty of your home by updating your interior design.
Rustic interior design is currently trending again, while the modern and minimalist looks are still favoured by many people due to their practicality. Just like modern design, minimalist style loves simplicity with its clean lines, calm colours, natural light, and practical furniture. But, unlike modern design that enjoys a bit of random decoration, minimalism sticks to things that are really needed.
The obvious gain from updating your interior design from time to time is a home that brings you joy and ticks all the boxes when it comes to functionality. However, there is also an added bonus. By keeping your home relevant to current trends you can help it to maintain a stable price in the market, and possibly even increase its value.
Have you tried any of these simple upgrades in your home?
I was able to get a few bare-root Prunus virginiana trees for our nursery. We’re a little far south for “chokecherry”, as its commonly called, but we’re going to try and push it by putting some in partial shade.
Prunus virginiana is a large native deciduous shrub or a small tree. Growing in the wild, it can form thickets, which can become very dense. The spread can originate from the shallow, spreading root system that may form additional plants from the lengthy underground runners. In the wild, it can be found growing in multiple growing conditions in woodlands, ravines, slopes, thickets, and open fields.
When immature, the berries have a puckered texture. These berries have a bitter taste, giving this plant the common name chokeberry.
An important plant for wildlife. The fruits, leaves, seeds, and twigs are used by animals both large and small. Large animals including bear, moose, coyotes, bighorn sheep browse the foliage. Birds eat the fruits, while chipmunks, mice, and squirrels eat the seeds. It is also a host plant for many insects that can destroy the foliage, wood, sap, flowers, and fruit while feeding.
The fruit on chokecherry is bitter when raw so it is not recommended to eat them right off the tree. They can be cooked and made into preserves, jams, pies, and sauces.
Fruit – raw or cooked. Very harsh, it is normally used in pies, jellies etc. Dark and juicy, it is sometimes edible raw when fully mature. The fruit can be dried and is then quite nice raw. The fruit is up to 8mm in diameter and contains a single large seed. Seed – raw or cooked. Very nutritious, they are added to pemmican. Do not eat the seed if it is too bitter – see the notes above on toxicity. The bark and twigs are a tea substitute.
We’ll see how it does here. Anyone else try growing them in Florida or Alabama?
Garden designer Leslie Bennett’s new bookGarden Wonderland (out April 2, 2024) is full of delicious surprises. For one, it’s so much more than a book about edible landscape design, for which Bennett’s design-build firm Pine House Edible Gardens, is best known. Yes, there are plenty of fruit trees and raised veggie beds within, but the book includes other types of gardens as well. It’s broken into five types of wonderland: edible, floral, healing, gathering, and cultural.
The 18 client gardens, plus Bennett’s own backyard, that are featured in the book are gorgeous, immersive, and aspirational, but they also feel eminently approachable, like they could belong to your cool friend (not someone with a full-time gardener). Those people and their stories are also right there in the pages of the book: Bennett’s clients were all photographed in their gardens, which is something you don’t often see. The result is a volume that feels deeply human and captures the spirit of “wonder” that Bennett hopes we will experience in our gardens.
Above: Leslie’s own garden wonderland, in Oakland, CA.
More than just a dreamy coffee table book, Garden Wonderland is packed with practical how-to advice and takeaways for both novice and seasoned gardeners. We spoke to Bennett to find out how we can all weave more wonder into our backyards.
Above: Fragrant English lavender, edible pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowiana), Agave celsii, kalanchoe, and kangaroo paws fill this cottage garden. Their contrasting foliage and flowers provide year-round beauty.
To pay attention to plants in a garden may sound like obvious advice, but Bennett points out that many of today’s yards center around expensive hardscape elements or fancy furniture. “In contrast, a garden wonderland is a plant-based space where fairly minimal hardscape will do,” Bennett notes in her introduction. “By designing your garden using lots of lushly layered, interactive plants, you can create a place where you will be surrounded by plant and animal life and awaken all your senses. You may brush past a scented geranium and welcome its fragrance or savor the taste of luscious homegrown fruit.”
We’re back to see the garden that Kathy Sandel designed for her son in Los Angeles. She leaned into the sunny climate and embraced the design of his new home by choosing durable, drought-tolerant, architectural succulents mixed with a variety of other plants to soften and add green to the small space.
This is in the rear garden, with its beautiful paving stones. A purple Alstroemeria (Zones 8–11) adds a pop of color with very long-lasting flowers, and a trio of beautiful glazed containers house orange roses.
An oakleaf hydrangea (Hydrangeaquercifolia, Zones 5–9) blooms in a pot. The container and the white wall behind it form a perfect frame to show off the hydrangea like the work of art that it is.
The beautiful aloe in the front of this raised bed looks to be fan aloe (Aloeplicatilis, Zones 10 –11). What an incredible living sculpture!
This ivy-leaved geranium (Pelargonium hybrid, Zones 9–11 or as an annual) is massive. Forms of geraniums such as this grow long, trailing stems, and look so perfect spilling over the edge of a container, raised bed, or window box.
In this corner of the front garden, yellow and orange kangaroo paw (Anigozanthos, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) bloom in front of the privacy hedge.
Silvery succulents cover the ground in a container.
A purple bougainvillea (Bougainvillea hybrid, Zones 10–11) shares a pot with succulents and a purple verbena (Verbena hybrid, Zones 10–11 or as an annual).
Two great succulents grow together in this container—a fan aloe, and at its base Echeveriagibbiflora ‘Caronculata’, which has silvery leaves topped with unusual lumpy growths that give it a very unique appearance.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
If you are busy and feeling guilty about not being able to grow as much as you would like, don’t get overwhelmed. Gardening may seem too complicated, and you might think you need some sort of magical “green thumb” to make it happen. Yet don’t we want pesticide-free food? And survival calories in the ground in case of an emergency? And the best, freshest, tastiest produce in the world?
Wouldn’t you like to know how to grow food without all the complexity? To just walk out into your garden and enjoy the aroma of fresh dill and rosemary? To pluck sun-warmed tomatoes? To dig rich, orange sweet potatoes from healthy soil?
You don’t need to buy lumber and build beds, or create some fancy watering system.
You can see clips of our gardens in the video above. They’re lovely, and we got over 2500lbs of food from our backyard last year. In my new book, you’ll learn how to cut through the complexity and grow food with simplicity. You’ll discover how to find easy-to-grow varieties, and you’ll learn how to put food on your table without expensive and time-consuming methods.
If you have a little land, a little time, and the desire for a healthier life, you can put fresh produce on the table, grow an abundance of hearty roots and greens in your backyard, and stop feeling overwhelmed about gardening.
Would you like to know my secret for creating the perfect winter arrangements, home decor, and wreaths? That’s right, branches from my red twig dogwoods.
As a Scandinavian-American, born in the middle of winter and raised in the Northern Hemisphere, it’s no surprise that I greet the cold season with a squeal of excitement. Yes, I’m one of those people. Don’t hate me because I’m wintry.
This also means I live for winter decorating, whether it’s inside my home or outside on the porch and in my gardens. I’m always looking for ways to adorn my spaces in ways that highlight the beauty of the chilly season while creating a welcoming and cozy atmosphere for all to enjoy.
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Back in my 20s I got serious about the art of winter decor. I wanted to take the valuable wreath-making skills my mother taught me to a higher level.
So I began to study the individual pieces of what constitutes attractive, eye-catching displays. And I made an important discovery: red twig dogwood.
Red twig dogwoods are deciduous shrubs in the Cornus genus. Depending on where you live in the world, you can find red twig varieties and cultivars of various species in the genus.
In this article, I’ll be covering the species most commonly grown in home gardens: C. alba, C. sanguinea, and C. sericea.
The moment I identified this group of plants as an integral player in the winter decor and gardening game, I felt like I’d won the lottery.
At first, back then, I would go to great lengths to scavenge and forage in forests for the vibrant red twigs – hiking across fields, mucking through swamps. It was a lot of work. So when I finally had my own land to cultivate my dearest plant buddies, these dogwoods definitely made the list of must-haves.
Today, in my garden, I have three different types of red twig dogwoods growing, and I’m going to share all about how to grow and care for these vibrant shrubs.
Here’s a quick overview of what I’ll cover in this article:
If you’re ready to take your winter gardening to the next level with red twig dogwood, let’s jump right in!
What Is Red Twig Dogwood?
Cornus is a genus in the Coraceae family of flowering trees and shrubs known for their attractive trees and flowers and their distinctive, vibrantly colored bark, commonly known as dogwoods.
There are roughly 50 different species within the genus and the colors of their bark range from acid green, to orange, yellow, and red. Most of the types commonly referred to as “red twig dogwoods” are from the species C. alba, C. sanguinea, and C. sericea.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
The bright or deep red color of their bark is most pronounced in younger stems and most often observed or noticeable during the winter after the shrubs have dropped their leaves.
Aside from the name red twig dogwood, each of the three species goes by several other common names.
C. alba is also known as tartarian or tatarian dogwood, red-barked, Siberian, and white-berried dogwood. It’s native to Siberia, northern China, and the Korean peninsula.
C. alba was previously classified as C. pumila and Swida alba so you may sometimes see it labeled with these synonyms.
C. sanguinea, also known as common dogwood, sometimes goes by blood twig, European, and swamp dogwood. This species is native to Europe and western Asia.
C. sericeais commonly known as red osier or American dogwood, as it’s native to North America. Additionally, it is sometimes mistaken for C. alba.
There are a large number of varieties and cultivars within these three species, and not all of them feature the red branches that give them the moniker “red twig dogwood.” In this article, we’ll focus on the red twig types.
In general, these shrubs can range anywhere between four to 15 feet tall and from three to 15 feet wide at maturity. They reach full maturity within about five to 10 years.
Red twig dogwoods begin their annual growth cycle in spring with buds that open into clusters of small, white flowers, attracting bees and butterflies. As summer approaches, these flowers give way to white or bluish-greenish berries, which are popular with birds.
Leaves emerge to a lush solid green, or subtle shades of gold. Some cultivars have variegated foliage with attractive white, cream, or yellow with green combinations.
Come fall, the leaves transform into shades of deep gold, orange, purple, and red offering a brilliant autumn display. In winter, the foliage falls away to reveal the signature brightly colored stems, creating striking visual interest against a snowy or lackluster backdrop.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
This seasonal progression showcases the varied ornamental qualities of the red twig dogwoods throughout the year. These shrubs are low maintenance and grow successfully in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 8, depending on the species.
We’ll cover more on care and maintenance later, but it’s worth mentioning here that to produce those coveted red twigs, regular pruning is necessary to refresh the growth because the youngest branches are also the most brightly colored.
Before we move to care, though, let’s explore the history and origin of these beauties.
Cultivation and History
The beauty of red twig dogwood only showcases one side of its personality. Culturally, it boasts a history of functional uses.
Native Americans used the bark of C. sericea in dyes and basket weaving, and they also added it to their smoking tobacco. The strong branches made terrific handles for tools.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
These shrubs serve well in riparian zones, shelterbelts, woodlots, and many other areas targeted for ecological reclamation and naturalization. They stabilize the soil, attract pollinators, and feed wildlife, making them an ideal plant for agroforestry designs.
While birds and small mammals might enjoy the berries of red twig dogwoods, you, as a human, might not. Although they are technically edible, they are bitter-tasting and can cause gastrointestinal distress.
First Nations peoples consumed them but would often combine the berries with other sweet fruits like Saskatoon berries.
Now that we’ve got a good idea of what red twig dogwood shrubs are, and why they’re popular, let’s take a closer look, beginning with how to propagate these plants.
Red Twig Dogwood Propagation
Red twig dogwoods can be propagated via a few different methods including from seed, by taking cuttings, by division, and of course by transplanting a container-grown plant purchased from a reputable grower.
From Seed
While it is possible to collect seeds and grow red twig dogwood plants from these seeds, the process is tricky, time-consuming, and unpredictable.
Many of the shrubs you buy from greenhouses and nurseries are cultivated varieties and seeds will not grow true to the parent plant.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
Additionally, red twig shrubs growing in the wild have likely cross-pollinated with neighboring dogwoods.
If you’re keen to collect seeds and attempt growing a red twig dogwood via this method, you’ll need to pick the ripe berries in fall and mash them up to extract the seed.
The seeds require cold-stratification, which can either be achieved by direct sowing fresh seed outdoors in fall, or keeping them in the refrigerator for two to three months before sowing in spring.
After stratification, you can sow the seeds in a shallow tray of potting soil or directly in the ground in spring. Maintain even moisture in the soil.
When seedlings have reached about two inches tall, pot them up into individual three- to six-inch containers.
Once seedlings have reached six to eight inches tall, they can be planted out into the garden, ideally in spring or fall.
A more reliable method of propagation is to take stem cuttings.
You can take softwood cuttings in spring or summer, or hardwood cuttings in fall, after the leaves have fallen from the plant.
Softwood
Clip four- to six-inch lengths of young stems, defoliate the bottom half, and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Then stick the dipped end into a shallow tray of potting soil. It’s best to start plenty, in case some of them fail.
Keep the soil consistently moist and cover the tray with plastic that allows for some ventilation, propped up so it doesn’t make contact with the cuttings. This will keep the immediate air around the new plants moist and warm.
Place them in a sunny location, with bright, indirect light.
When you notice new growth, pot up the cuttings into individual three- to six-inch containers. Maintain a consistent level of moisture without drowning the roots. Too much moisture can cause rot.
Once the cuttings are about six to eight inches tall, you can plant them out into the garden, preferably in spring or fall to avoid summer heat.
Hardwood
Hardwood cuttings are an even more reliable method of propagating red twig dogwoods. This method is slow but is usually very successful.
First, select a healthy looking young shoot that is less than a year old. Remove the tip, then cut the twig into six- to nine-inch lengths. Make a clean, angled cut above a bud at the top of each section.
At the base of each cutting make a straight cut. This is the end that will be rooted. Dip this end in rooting hormone and tuck it into a prepared trench outdoors.
Your trench should be made in well-draining, fertile soil in a location that is sheltered from the wind.
Stick the cuttings into the trench so that about one third sits above the soil, with at least two buds exposed. Firm the soil around the cuttings and maintain consistent moisture.
New aboveground growth is indicative of successful root formation, which may take several months, and at this point, the clones can be transplanted elsewhere if desired.
From Suckers
Many red twig dogwoods produce suckers, and it’s possible to divide these suckers to produce new plants.
Begin by digging carefully close to the area of the sucker you wish to remove from the parent plant.
Expose the section of roots you wish to divide. Cut the section free from the parent plant making sure to include the stems and roots of the sucker. Fill in the hole where you removed the division and firm the soil at the base of the parent plant.
Next, take your sucker, trim the aboveground growth by approximately half its original height. This will encourage new, vigorous growth after transplant.
If your division is small, and you take it in the spring, you can foster it in a container during the summer before planting out in the fall if you like.
Because these are vigorous growers, it’s fine to plant divisions directly in the ground as long as you tend to their needs as required.
Transplanting
The easiest way to get started with a red twig dogwood is to purchase a shrub from a greenhouse or nursery and transplant it into the garden in early spring or fall. I’ll walk you through the process.
First, be sure to choose an appropriate planting site. I’ll cover everything your red twig dogwood needs to live its best life in the next section, so feel free to circle back here later if you need to.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
Start by digging a hole that is twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball of your shrub. Depending on the stage of growth your plant is at, this could be anywhere from six inches to two feet wide.
Next, remove your plant from its container and examine the roots. Clip away any twisted or damaged roots and loosen those that have become potbound.
If roots are severely potbound, make a few cuts into the root ball with your hori hori or a sharp knife to create some space in the root ball.
As long as your soil is in good condition, you shouldn’t need to add amendments as these plants are pretty resilient.
If you’re like me and you want to give your new plants the best chance at survival, scoop in a shovelful of well-rotted compost and mix it into the soil you removed from the planting hole.
Set the plant in place, aiming for the top of the root ball to be level with the surrounding ground.
Backfill with soil, gently tamping around the roots as you work. When you’re finished, give your new transplant a nice drink of water. This should be at least two or three gallons.
If the soil settles quite a bit while watering, add more soil to the surface. Apply a two- to three-inch layer of mulch over the root zone to aid in moisture retention and to insulate the vulnerable roots from extreme heat or cold.
Now that you are familiar with all the ways to propagate red twig dogwood shrubs, let’s take a closer look at all the elements these plants need to live their best lives.
How to Grow Red Twig Dogwood
Red twig dogwoods are suitable for cultivation in USDA Hardiness Zones 2 to 8, depending on the type. They grow best in full sun to part shade.
They prefer loamy soil with a pH of 5.5 to 8.5, but some will do fine in other soil types, as long as it’s moist, yet well-draining. Some varieties will even tolerate wet soils, which is the reason you’ll often see swaths of red twigs growing in ditches and swampy or boggy areas.
Most red twig dogwoods are fast growers and some sucker freely, so check the expected mature height and width of your plant on the tag that accompanies it so you can plan your spacing accordingly.
These shrubs typically reach their maximum size somewhere between five and 10 years old.
Although red twig dogwoods might be able to tolerate a dry spell and bounce back after the next rainfall, to keep them as healthy as possible, be sure to irrigate in times of drought.
These shrubs are low maintenance, save for some pruning if you want to keep their size in check and encourage their vibrant red color. I’ll discuss pruning along with other recommendations for maintenance of these shrubs later, so keep reading!
Growing Tips
Choose a planting site in full sun to part shade.
Plant in loamy soil that is moist, yet well-draining.
Space plantings according to the shrub’s size at maturity.
Pruning and Maintenance
There are three reasons to prune red twig dogwoods: to keep them healthy, to control their shape, and to encourage new growth that produces the brightest red color.
The best time to prune your red twig dogwoods is while the shrubs are dormant, in late winter or early spring.
Remove any damaged, broken, crossed, or unhealthy branches by cutting them at the base of the plant, just above the soil line.
As they are vigorous growers, these woody shrubs can become quite large very quickly. If you want to contain them and control their size, don’t be afraid of giving them a hard pruning.
In late summer, you’ll notice that young stems will turn red and the color will intensify throughout the winter. Once the stems reach about three years old, they begin to fade to a dull green, brown, or gray color.
Cut these stems at the base of the plant as part of your regular pruning routine. The plant will respond by sending out fresh, new growth continually.
These shrubs will tolerate rejuvenation pruning, which can renew an old, unproductive shrub. If your red twig dogwood has been neglected and isn’t producing red branches as you’d like, cut it back to about six to eight inches from the ground.
Although it will leave an empty space in your landscape or garden for a season, it will quickly fill back in with fresh, vibrant red growth.
Follow this up with yearly pruning, removing about 30 percent of the largest branches each spring. This will put your pruning schedule back on track.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
Fast-spreading suckers are very helpful for controlling erosion. But if your dogwood is spreading wider than you’d like, control it by removing suckers.
Use a spade or sharp shovel and some good old-fashioned brute force to stomp through and cut the suckers and their roots away from the base of the plant.
After pruning in early spring, finish your maintenance by topping up the layer of mulch to about two to three inches deep, from the base of the plant to the drip line.
This should cover the root zone, but not touch the stems. Keep the mulch two inches away from the stems.
As I’ve mentioned, these shrubs are very low maintenance. Ensure they have consistent moisture, prune to encourage new healthy growth, control suckering if desired, and mulch to retain soil moisture. Not much work to get that vibrant winter color you’re looking for.
Red Twig Dogwood Species and Cultivars to Select
With a wide range of varieties and cultivars to choose from across most of the United States and Canada, you’ll likely find many interesting red twig dogwoods in your local region.
I’ve got three different specimens growing in my gardens here in Zone 5b and I couldn’t be happier with them.
I’ve highlighted some popular ones to give you an idea of the choices available.
Arctic Fire
C. sericea (syn. C. stonolifera) ‘Farrow’ aka Arctic Fire®is a compact, dwarf red twig dogwood shrub.
This ornamental shrub grows best in Zones 3 to 7 and reaches a maximum size of four feet tall and wide.
It’s suitable for partially shaded locations and due to its small stature, is a desirable option for smaller spaces.
‘Farrow’ showcases pretty white flowers in spring, followed by white berries and gorgeous solid, green leaves that turn red to burgundy in autumn before they fall to reveal the red-hot stems through winter.
C. sanguinea ‘Cato’ is a red twig dogwood cultivar also sold under the name Arctic Sun®. This compact dwarf shrub grows well in USDA Zones 3 to 9.
‘Cato’ reaches a maximum height of four feet tall with a similar spread. Its dainty white flowers give way to purple berries, attracting songbirds to your garden.
The young green leaves quickly turn to a lovely chartreuse, almost neon yellow color, then burst into shades of orange as the season changes to fall.
The bark of this variety glows with a unique orange and red combination. Some may call this a yellow twig dogwood, but the tips of the stems are typically bright coral red.
You’ll likely find this popular dogwood at your local greenhouse, but if you prefer the convenience of online shopping it’s available at Nature Hills Nursery.
Cardinal
C. sericea ‘Cardinal’ is a cold-hardy option for Zones 2 to 7. It’s a fast growing variety and reaches a mature height of up to ten feet with a similar spread.
It produces berries in a dreamy, creamy-white color with hints of blue.
The dark green foliage turns a luscious shade of deep purple-red in fall and the tall stems form a brilliant display of red for winter contrast.
C. alba ‘Bailhalo,’ otherwise known as Ivory Halo®, grows best in USDA Zones 3 to 7. This is a variegated variety, that reaches a maximum size of six feet tall and wide at maturity.
Foliage is pale green with crisp, creamy white edges. Berries are white with a cool blue undertone.
In fall, the leaves turn to a purplish-red color, adding warmth to your autumn garden display. And of course, leaves then fall away revealing the intense red stems through winter.
Like most other dogwoods, red twigs are resilient plants, but they can sometimes be affected by pest infestations and disease.
Let’s take a brief look at the most common problems that you may encounter.
Herbivores
I usually recommend protecting the lower trunks and stems of young fruit-producing shrubs with some kind of physical barrier.
This is because animals like rabbits and deer like to nibble on immature growth of some of these plants.
With my red twigs, however, I did not do this and they were never significantly bothered.
This could be because there were other desirable plants the herbivores were drawn to in my gardens. But it’s a smart idea to protect young transplants for the first season while they become established.
Because red twigs are multi-stemmed shrubs, trunk wraps and spirals will not work. Instead, shape a length of chicken wire into a cylinder around the base of your plant and secure it into the ground with stakes.
As for birds, I’m never concerned with protecting the berries from them because they aren’t part of my diet.
In fact, I use my red twigs and other inedible shrubs to feed the birds. Birds help control unwanted insects and encouraging their presence in our gardens is a good thing! So let the birds feast!
Insects
Several different kinds of insects will feed on these shrubs, and you can read about them in our guide to dogwood pests.
I’ve highlighted a few you should watch for on your red twig dogwoods.
Dogwood Borer
Dogwood borer, Synanthedon scitula, is the larvae of a clearwing moth. The moth looks similar to a wasp and females lay their eggs on the bark of the plant.
The larvae measures under an inch long at maturity and off-white in color with a dark head.
Borers enter the plant through an opening or wound, crawl inside and feed on the cambium, causing the branch to die.
You might notice early leaf drop or leaves turning red earlier than usual. You might also see frass, that looks like sawdust on or near the plant.
Because these insects enter through holes, take care not to cause damage as you perform maintenance such as weed whacking around your shrubs.
If you identify these borers eating your dogwood, prune away the affected branches.
Dogwood Club Gall Midge
The dogwood club gall midge, Resseliella clavula, is a tiny fly, almost too small to see unless you look closely.
It’s less than one-eighth of an inch long and it lays eggs on terminal shoots of your plant. When the eggs hatch, the larvae move into the nearby shoot.
As the larvae feeds, swollen galls form on the branches – they can be up to one inch in diameter.
In the fall, the larvae emerge from the gall and fall to the ground below where they overwinter and later transform into adult flies to begin the cycle again.
Since infestations rarely grow out of control, just prune the galls as you see them and dispose of them in the garbage.. This destroys the larvae and ends the cycle.
Horse Chestnut Scale
Horse chestnut scale, Pulvinaria regalis, are insects that feed by sucking sap from the host plant.
They are small, usually about four to five millimeters in diameter, brown colored, and round at maturity.
These insects follow a one-year generational cycle, beginning in June or July when the eggs hatch. Nymphs move to the undersides of leaves where they feed. In the fall, they migrate to the bark where they overwinter and begin feeding again in early spring.
Mature scale insects have a protective shell and when they lay eggs under their bodies, these are sheltered underneath. After the eggs are laid, the adult dies, and the eggs eventually hatch a month or so later.
These insects rarely cause serious damage to dogwoods. You can try scraping eggs and adults off your plants or clipping away infested sections. Encourage beneficial predators like ladybugs, parasitoid wasps, and birds as these consume scale as part of their diets.
Disease
Our guide to common dogwood diseases covers in detail the potential issues you may face. Here’s a look at some of the diseases that commonly affect red twig dogwood plants.
Anthracnose
Dogwood anthracnose, aka Cornusanthracnose, is caused by the fungus Discula destructiva. And it’s a severe dogwood disease.
Light brown spots, sometimes with darker edges, first appear on leaves and flowers. Leaves eventually become dry and the blotches increase in size.
From the leaves, the infection can spread to shoots, branches, and stems where it causes cankers to form, which can girdle the branch and kill it.
Trim away all affected parts of the plant, and dispose of them. Rake up and clean away fallen leaves from the area and destroy or put them in the trash.
If you are battling an infection of dogwood anthracnose, and you’ve pruned and cleaned up the area but you still notice signs of infection, consider treating with a copper fungicide.
Powdery mildew is a disease caused by the fungus Erysiphe pulchra, formerly known as Microsphaera pulchra.
Common in dense, shady areas, this fungus can grow out of control as a result of poor air circulation and damp conditions.
It causes leaves to appear as if they are covered in a fine, white dust and often look scorched, dry, and discolored. Defoliation may occur in severe cases.
Most cases of powdery mildew appear in late summer, toward the end of the growing season. For this reason, many gardeners choose not to treat it as the leaves will begin to fall soon anyway.
Clean up and destroy affected fallen leaves and prune out dead or severely affected branches. Regular annual pruning encourages better air circulation between the branches.
If powdery mildew begins early in the season, you might consider using a fungicide, but to be effective, you need to apply it right away when you first notice symptoms.
Spot anthracnose is a fungal disease caused by Elsinoe corni. It usually appears after periods of high humidity or extended, frequent rainfall.
As the weather clears up, and things begin to dry out you’ll notice obvious signs.
Tiny brown to purplish spots appear on the flowers and the petals might begin to wrinkle and become distorted. The disease can then move to the leaves, the young shoots, and the fruits.
Serious infection rarely occurs, but if it does become severe or repeat the next year, it can stress the plant and weaken it.
Because the fungus can survive winters on plant material, trim away any affected areas and dispose of it in the trash. Consider treating with a fungicide if it becomes challenging to control over more than one season.
Best Uses for Red Twig Dogwoods
Red twig dogwoods are primarily valued for their unique ornamental features, offering colorful year-round visual interest in landscapes and gardens.
Smaller specimens can be planted in borders and all sizes can be used as focal points and accents.
They are a source of food for pollinators, birds, and other small mammals which makes them an ideal choice for land restoration projects and ecological refuge sites.
These shrubs are also helpful in the application of erosion control due to their fast-growing and suckering habits. This also makes them a favorite for hedging and mass plantings.
Photo by Tabitha Caswell.
My absolute favorite reason for growing these plants is for their winter interest. I adore how the red stems stand out against snow and the contrast they offer to greenery arrangements.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Deciduous woody shrub
Flower/Foliage Color:
Yellow, white / green, variegated
Native to:
Asia, Europe, North America
Maintenance:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
2-8
Tolerance:
Deer, rabbits, wet soil
Bloom Time/Season:
Spring, winter interest
Soil Type:
Clay, loamy, sandy
Exposure:
Full sun to part shade
Soil pH:
5.5-8.0
Time to Maturity:
5-10 years
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Spacing:
Width of mature spread
Attracts:
Bees, birds, butterflies
Planting Depth:
1/2 inch (seed), depth of root system (transplants)
Becoming a homeowner for the first time is an exciting journey filled with dreams of the perfect living space. However, it also comes with responsibilities that, if overlooked, can turn your dream home into a source of stress. Here are four essential tips for first-time homeowners to navigate the challenges and joys of homeownership successfully.
Understand Your Financial Responsibilities
Beyond the mortgage, homeownership involves various financial responsibilities, including property taxes, home insurance, maintenance costs, and potential homeowners association (HOA) fees. Budgeting for these expenses helps you avoid unexpected financial strain. Regularly review your expenditure and savings plans to ensure they accommodate the ongoing costs of maintaining your home. Setting aside an emergency fund can also help cover unexpected repairs or maintenance issues without jeopardizing your financial stability.
Regular Maintenance Is Key
Regular maintenance is essential to keeping your home in good condition and preventing minor issues from turning into costly repairs. Create a maintenance checklist that includes tasks such as checking for leaks, cleaning gutters, servicing your HVAC system, and inspecting the roof. Tackling these tasks seasonally can help ensure that your home remains a safe and comfortable place to live while also preserving its value.
Personalize Your Space
One of the joys of homeownership is the ability to personalize your space to reflect your style and needs. However, it’s wise to prioritize improvements that add value or enhance your living experience. Consider starting with paint, lighting, and fixtures, which can significantly transform a space without a hefty investment. Plan carefully for larger projects, considering your budget and how the improvement will affect your home’s overall value and appeal.
Prepare for a Lockout
Getting locked out of your home is a common mishap that can happen to anyone. Keep a spare key in a secure but accessible place, such as with a trusted neighbor or in a lockbox, to prepare for such an event. Alternatively, consider installing a smart lock that allows keyless entry through codes or a smartphone app. Finally, if you find yourself locked out without a spare key in a safe place, you can always call a local locksmith!
Now that you know these four essential tips for first-time homeowners, you can confidently manage your new home. Embrace this exciting journey, knowing you have the knowledge to create and maintain a happy, safe, and beautiful home.
Raised beds have taken the gardening world by storm, and just about every vegetable gardener claims at least one raised bed in their design. But are raised beds better for gardening? People feel passionate about gardening in raised beds vs in ground beds, so let’s talk about the benefits and the drawbacks of each.
In my old garden, I used a combination of raised beds and in ground beds. All of my perennials and herbs were in the ground, while I reserved one large raised bed for my vegetables.
Just a sliver of my garden had full sun to grow my vegetables. So my solution was to make a unique stacked raised bed where I could optimize my growing space. It worked perfectly for someone with a small garden and as someone with mobility issues.
As for my home, there is one big raised bed left behind by previous owners that is completely impractical. It’s goes right up against a neighbour’s fence, meaning it’s difficult to access. So I’ll actually be removing it this summer!
There is always going to be a case for both sides of growing in raised beds vs in ground ones. So let me break down what you can expect from either option.
Raised Bed vs In Ground Beds
In ground beds are what’s more traditional, and what I’m sure most of your existing gardening beds are. This is when you grow your plants straight into the native soil. There is no turf or lawn, just soil ready for you to plant in.
Raised beds have four walls, creating an enclosed space. These edges can be made of wood, brick, plastic, concrete, or other building materials. They vary significantly in size, with some being small and portable and others large and fixed to the ground.
In ground beds can handle plants of all sizes.
Are Raised Beds Better for Gardening?
When it comes down to it, it all depends on the soil quality. For some, their backyard has wonderful beds of soil, whether you put your all into making it so or inherited some darn good soil already.
For some, they don’t have great soil. Perhaps they have drainage issues or compact, clay soil. In some of these cases, it’s easier to start from scratch with a raised bed rather than try to fix the soil. Leave it to the perennials to fix it up instead!
There are many pros and cons for raised beds vs in ground ones. It all depends on what your current issues are, what you hope you grow, and what space you have. I’ll break this down further, so you can figure out what kind of bed is best for you!
Raised beds are great for communal spaces to ensure everyone has designated space.
Pros of Raised Beds
Raised beds are very trendy in gardening right now. They have a distinct neat and orderly look that many home gardeners appreciate. Even when there’s nothing growing in them, they can provide some winter interest. But there are a lot more positive things to consider besides the orderliness of a raised bed.
Space Saver
These raised beds can give you extra space in your gardening. If you have limited existing growing space, say from a paved patio or large deck, you can grow plenty in raised beds.
They’re also great for small spaces that need to perfectly manage their space, such as balcony growers or small urban gardens.
While no garden is going to be completely pest free, raised beds can give you a leg up in keeping the pests away. Since the raised bed isn’t on level ground, it’s out of stomping and chomping range for specific pests like snails, slugs, and rabbits. I grow my lettuce in a wine barrel to keep them away from slugs!
If the raised bed has a bottom or is lined, it can also protect from underground dwellers like gophers or moles.
And if you have small kiddos running around, it can also keep the garden away from curious hands and stomping feet. Same goes for dogs! Though cats seem to be able to reach wherever they set their heart on.
More Accessible
One of the biggest draws of raised beds vs ground beds is that they can be more accessible. Those who have injuries or disabilities may have difficulty in reaching and tending to ground beds.
If you have a raised bed that is higher up, you don’t have to bend or lean as much. It can make gardening much more accessible for anyone.
This stacked planter allowed me to harvest and tend to vegetables with limited bending.
Less Weeding
For most people, they will find that they have to do less weeding with a raised bed. With new weed-seed-free soil, less weeds are likely to pop up. The soil is sterile when taken care of properly.
The borders also help to keep out new weeds, especially those that spread easily through roots like crab grass or clover.
However, it should be noted that if you place a raised bed over top of where turf or weeds used to be and don’t have a lined bottom, the weeds can still creep their way in.
Of course, you’ll still get weeds no matter what—many are carried in the wind. So it’s not a fool proof solution!
High-Quality Soil
When you start a new raised bed, you’re immediately going to have some top-grade soil. If you are starting a ground bed, it can sometimes take a few years to build up the soil to be of high-quality.
Soil can be difficult for many reasons, like lots of roots from a tree that make it difficult to plant into or lots of debris and rocks that make it difficult to use.
Soil Temperatures
Raised beds heat up much more quickly than in ground beds. You can get an earlier start outside in the spring when temperatures begin to warm up in raised beds.
Raised beds (and containers, which are essentially small raised beds) are great for heat loving vegetables as they stay warmer in the summer than the ground.
It should be noted that it goes the opposite way in the cooler season. The ground will be slower to freeze and cool, while raised beds will cool quickly. So if you have anything sensitive to the cold, raised beds are not as well insulated in the fall and winter.
Better Drainage
If a raised bed is set up properly, it can have better drainage than in ground beds. This is especially helpful in super rainy areas or if your yard has drainage issues and can collect soggy soil.
That being said, raised beds can pool water at the base if it isn’t set up for proper drainage. So make sure you set it up right to take advantage of this pro.
Peppers grow well in containers and raised beds since they like higher soil temperatures.
Cons of Raised Beds
For every pro, there is a con. Many of these pros have other considerations that should also be noted. In some cases, in ground beds are a better option than raised ones. Here are some of the not-as-great aspects of growing plants in a raised bed.
More Expensive
You don’t need much to start growing in the ground. You can get started instantly, and don’t have to worry about buying extra building materials or bucket loads of soil.
Speaking of soil, it can get pretty pricey when you’re filling a whole raised bed (or two) full of it. I always suggest adding a layer beneath of other organic material such as branches and leaves. But even then, it will degrade and you’ll find yourself topping off with soil the next year.
While you have the initial building costs of the raised bed, it may also require upkeep down the road. Especially if you use wood, you may find yourself needing to replace panels just a few years after constructing it.
This space would work better as an in ground bed since it’s right against a wall and not very accessible.
Requires More Resources
Plants in the ground have a big leg up on the competition for being low maintenance. They have access to endless soil beneath them where they can access all the nutrients they need and plenty of water.
I never add any supplemental fertilizer to my in ground beds. Everything they need is already in the soil. I add layers of compost when I have some ready and allow leaf mulch to degrade in the fall. And that’s all they need!
Meanwhile, plants in raised beds and containers will require supplemental fertilizer to get the nutrients they need. And oftentimes, watering will wash away a good chunk of the nutrients too.
In ground beds also retain water much better. They can access moisture from deeper in the ground during droughts. Raised beds dry out quite quickly, and you’ll find yourself watering them almost daily in the peak of the summer.
Raised beds can also be difficult to irrigate. You’re working against gravity after all.
Adding a layer of compost to my in ground beds are all they need. No fertilizer required!
Limited Growing Space
When designing a raised bed, it’s important to consider how deep you make it, as this will limit what you can grow. Anything that has deep roots will have difficult growing in raised beds. With edges and bottoms, plants has difficult getting the horizontal spread and depth they need.
In some cases, raised beds can be portable. This is great for moving plants around as your design changes and to optimize growing conditions such as amount of sunlight.
But in most cases, raised beds are actually quite permanent. As your design changes, you get stuck with a large and immobile structure. For new gardeners, the first design doesn’t always stick. You learn how other designs and systems work better for you.
When you spend time and money building a raised bed, many are hesitant to take it all down and start from scratch. But sometimes that’s the only solution for a new, better working garden design.
Most raised beds are too large to be moved if you want to change your garden design or layout.
Time and Energy
Depending on what your biggest problems are, a raised bed vs an in ground bed can take more time or energy. Besides the initial build of a raised bed, they also will require more daily watering and fertilizer than a raised bed. But, you may find yourself not having to fight weeds or pests as much.
Likewise, an in ground bed doesn’t require much set up. You save time on watering and requiring little fertilizer. But you may end up spending more time weeding, amending soil, and fighting slugs and snails.
Take the time to think about your space, what you plan on growing, and your individual needs. Weigh these pros and cons I’ve outline in raised beds vs in ground beds, and see what fits your garden best!
FAQ About Raised Gardening Beds
What vegetables should not be grown in a raised bed?
Avoid any large vegetables. This means those that sprawl above ground and below ground. Vegetables with large root systems, such as pumpkins or watermelons, may have difficulty if the bed isn’t deep enough.
Anything vining can also be difficult. Make sure you have a trellis to encourage these plants to grow up, not across the bed.
Also avoid any vegetables that may be difficult to access, such as potatoes or corn.
What veggies do best in raised beds?
Veggies with shallow root systems do exceptionally well in raised beds. They’re quite versatile, so you can even put them in containers.
Root vegetables like loose soil, which also makes them a great candidate for raised beds since there is no foot traffic to compact the soil.
Heat loving vegetables may also benefit from raised beds as the soil temperature is warmer in the summer.
Is it cheaper to make or buy raised garden beds?
If you’re handy, it’s usually cheaper to make your raised garden beds yourself. If you can use reclaimed wood, even better. Here’s how you can make your own raised garden bed.
Do you have a preference for raised beds vs ground ones? Let me know in the comments below.
Were these plants grown with any types of pesticides? This is crucially important, as no one wants to unwittingly poison the very insects you are looking to attract.
Can you tell me a bit more about what wildlife interacts with this plant? Just because you saw a bee on it does not necessarily mean it’s good for all pollinators. About a quarter of our native bees in the Northeast are specialists, meaning they require the nectar and pollen of specific plants in order to survive. Wouldn’t you want to know what those plants are? The ability for native plants to support insect life is tremendous, orders of magnitude more than nonnative plants. Who eats all those insects? Hungry baby songbirds do, one of the best reasons to use native plants.
Where was the plant sourced? Locally sourced plants are better adapted to the timing and emergence of flowers and insects. This exquisite choreography between plant and insect has evolved over countless generations and is tightly synced. Using locally sourced plants helps keep both sides in step together.
Should you buy seeds, plugs, or pots?
Seeds are the least expensive option, followed by plugs, and then larger pots. If you have the time and interest, go with seeds. “Seeding is best for those who are patient and enjoy getting into the ‘weeds’ of plant biology and the growing process. Preparation is key, growing is slow, and weeding is ongoing—especially in the first couple of years,” says Abby Lawless, principle of Farm Landscape Design. “Each species of plant has specific germination requirements. For example, some may require periods of cold, moisture, exposure to light, oscillating temperatures, and so on.” (Read: The Garden Decoder: What Is ‘Cold Stratification?’)
Her recommendation? “Work with native plugs, which are small, young plants that can range from 2- to 2.5-inch-wide and 2- to 5-inch-deep. Growing plugs requires far fewer resources than larger potted plants, and because they are being planted at such a young age, they adapt quickly to environmental conditions and grow to be strong, vigorous plants.”
What are some trusted nurseries for native plants?
Above: Producing yellow flowers in early spring, golden ragwort attracts small native bees. Jacob’s ladder is a pale blue bloomer that reaches a foot in height, is deer resistant, and is loved by native bumble bees. Both are sold at Prairie Moon. Photographs courtesy of Prairie Moon.
Jeff Lynch, director of horticulture at Wethersfield Estate & Garden: “A very good and mail order retail plant nursery is Wood Thrush Native Plant Nursery. Based in Virginia, they grow rare and unusual varieties. My best wholesale sources for native plants are Kind Earth Growers, New Moon Nursery, and North Creek Nurseries. Even though most homeowners can’t buy from them, they’re great resources with an incredible wealth of information on native plants.”
Kathy Sandel, a retired garden designer in California, has shared her former (Kathy’s Calabasas Garden) and current (Kathy’s Garden Transformation in Sacramento) home gardens, and today she’s sharing pictures of the garden she designed and installed for her son in Los Angeles.
My son had purchased a remodeled Mediterranean-style home that needed a garden refurbishment both front and rear. I went with a mix of various drought-tolerant plants and succulents—plants that demand little care but have a strong architecture. Everything is on drip irrigation.
Looking through the gate shows the architecture of the home and teases with some of the sculptural, succulent plants used in the garden design.
Beautiful foliate comes from a redbud (Cerciscanadensis ‘Forest Pansy’,Zones 5–9), with colorful coleus (Plectranthusscutellarioides, Zones 10–11 or as an annual) around the base. The coleus will do well during the warmer months and can be replaced with heuchera or another option in the colder months.
More bright foliage comes from Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloamacra, Zones 5–9), and purple heart (Tradescantia pallida, Zones 7–10) softens the lines of the walls and walkways.
Two stunning, sculptural agaves flank this entrance.
In a climate like Los Angeles’s, with minimal rainfall, succulents are great, easy-care choices.
In-ground beds and container plantings work together to bring softness and life to this mostly paved area.
The ground cover here is dymondia (Dymondiamargaretae, Zones 9–11), which will fill in and serve as a good alternative to a traditional grass lawn in this warm, dry climate, as it is extremely drought tolerant. A red barberry (Berberis thunbergii, Zones 4–8) provides long-lasting foliage color.
A formal fountain brings the sound of moving water to the garden and matches the architecture of the home.
Changes from the formal paving to the newly planted dymondia help define different moods for different parts of the garden.
We’ll be back to see more of this little garden tomorrow.
Have a garden you’d like to share?
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
To submit, send 5-10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
April’s sunny, warm days and cool nights are perfect for the garden and the gardener. However, this is not the time to procrastinate – warmer temperatures are coming, and preparing the low desert Arizona garden in April for the hot summer ahead is important.
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Snapdragons and Ranunculus in bloom
What you do in your Arizona garden in April will affect how your garden, herbs, and flowers withstand the heat of the upcoming summer. Look at what’s growing in my Mesa, Arizona garden this month, and see my list of which garden tasks to do and the vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your Arizona garden in April.
Lupine
Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in April
April is a great month for harvesting carrots planted in the fall. Leave carrots in the ground until ready to eat, but harvest carrots before the heat of the summer if you live in hot places like Arizona (the heat can turn them bitter).
A tip to remember: the shorter-variety carrots are best eaten fresh, while longer carrots are better suited to storage.
Bean seeds do best when sown directly into the soil. Plant them 1 inch deep and space them 2 inches apart. Beans should sprout in 5 to 10 days. Like many other garden plants, beans need plenty of sun to grow properly. Keep the soil moist and well-drained for happy beans.
It’s time to harvest the celery from your garden. Celery doesn’t like hot temperatures, and the flavor will be affected – it will become bitter. The celery will also bolt – meaning the plant focuses on producing seeds. You will see a central stalk become taller and literally “bolt.” If it remains in the ground, it will flower and produce seeds.
StrawberriesArtichokesSummer SquashBeets and Lobelia
Flowers growing in the low desert Arizona garden in April
Nasturtiums put on their big show this month. The beautiful, edible blooms are everywhere! Be sure to save seeds to share with friends and family. Nasturtiums reseed easily; once you plant them, they often return year after year.
Pictured here are Vitex (chaste tree), petunias, and blue plumbago – all of which bloom and are beautiful in Arizona gardens in April.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in April
Harvest Rio Red Grapefruit (pictured here) begins in December and continues until the heat of summer.
As blossoms become fruit on your fruit trees, fruit should be thinned before it is an inch in diameter—thin fruit within about a month after full bloom. Fruit thinned later than this lessens the chance that fruit size will increase. For more information about how to thin fruit, read this article.
Early-ripening peaches (such as Earligrande, pictured here) may be ready to pick this month. The big delicious fruit is the benefit of all that thinning you did. Enjoy the fruit of your labors, and pick them before the birds get them!
Potato bugs (rollie-pollies) are active this month. Read this post for tips on managing them organically.
Genista Caterpillar on Texas Mountain Laurel. Allow for some damage or use Bt to control if infestation is severe.
Planting:
April is a good time to plant citrus trees and fig trees.
Fruit trees can be planted early in the month so they have time to settle in before the heat of the summer. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours, have early maturing fruit, and are self-pollinating.
April is an excellent time to plant most trees, bushes, and perennials, as well as frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus. Plant summer-flowering shrubs. Do not over-plant; be aware of the mature size of the plant and space accordingly.
Think twice before planting cool-season annuals this month. It will be heating up soon, and their time in the ground will be short. Better to plant warm-season flowers when they are available.
As temperatures heat up, annual plants will need more frequent watering. Water to the depth of your beds, and allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Check containers with a moisture meter or ensure the top inch or so of soil has dried out before watering.
Established citrus treesshould be watered once every 10-14 days.
Water established fruit trees once every 7-10 days.
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in April
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
If this post about gardening in Arizona during April was helpful, please share it:
Whether you’re blessed with a sprawling backyard or a pocket-sized garden, creating a stunning and functional outdoor entertainment area that the whole family will love is achievable with proper planning and creative thinking.
If you want to make the most out of your outdoor space without blowing the budget, it’s important to plan your shopping around favourable outdoor furniture deals and annual sales. This is the easiest way to ensure you can include design features and furniture that suit every family member, making it a versatile and comfortable space for the entire family.
Here are some top tips for creating the perfect outdoor family entertainment area.
Plan your layout
When designing and building an outdoor entertainment area, you need to dedicate time to properly planning the space first.
Consider how you’re going to use your outdoor area, how often you want to use it, and what must be included to meet your needs. For example, if you need to host large groups of people or want a suitable place for your children and their friends to hang out, it’s crucial to make sure you have enough space to accommodate everyone. Similarly, if you want to cook outdoors, you need a barbecue and kitchen area.
With larger areas, you may find it easier to create different zones, each with its own purpose and function. Smaller areas will be less intimidating than one large and overwhelming space. If possible, select a focal point around which you design the rest of your entertainment space.
When building an outdoor entertainment area, it’s essential to choose the correct lighting to suit the area’s function. Solar garden lights are cost-effective and unobtrusive, allowing you to light your garden or highlight special features.
If you plan to include an outdoor dining space, you need soft yet adequate lighting. Harsh lighting will diminish the romantic charm of outdoor dining, while inadequate fixtures will leave your guests trying to guess what is on their plates. For undercover patio areas, permanent fittings add a sophisticated and formal touch.
Multi-generational zones
While each member of your family uses the rooms in your home in unique ways, your outdoor living space provides the perfect opportunity to reinvent the way your family lives and plays together.
The most popular features, which include mood lighting, sound systems, hot tubs, and entertaining spaces, to name a few, allow you to build an area that appeals to all family members.
Embrace smart technology
Smart outdoor spaces are the natural progression of smart homes.
Wi-Fi-enabled barbecues, smokers, and grills are an ever-growing trend, allowing families to cook food to their exact specifications. Smart fridges can be installed in outdoor kitchens alongside Bluetooth-controlled fire pits and wireless smart heaters.
For year-round usage and comfort, high-tech canopies can be installed to track the sun and tilt to catch a cooling breeze. Rain sensors will automatically close the roof once the rainy season arrives.
All of these technological developments can help you maximise use of your outdoor family entertainment area.
Prioritise practicality
The most significant appeal of outdoor entertainment areas is the ability to make the most of all the spaces in and around the home. While a barbecue, comfortable chairs, and a table may have been sufficient in the past, more and more people are looking to invest in outdoor fridges, pizza ovens, ice machines, AV systems, and more.
To accommodate all of these new features, you need to consider the practicalities of installing and maintaining the appliances, including year-round protection from the elements. By choosing furnishings, decor and products that are weather resistant, with adequate coverings for wet or snowy weather, your outdoor living space can be suitable for every season.
Should space and budget allow, consider installing ‘hidden’ appliances that can safely tuck away when not in use. This is particularly beneficial for climates with excessive rain while still providing protection from glaring sunshine, which can also cause significant damage.
Year-round enjoyment
The cold winter months don’t have to automatically mean you are confined to spending more time indoors. Instead, planning your outdoor space with special consideration to winter weather will give you somewhere to enjoy year-round.
Including crackling firepits, bespoke outdoor fireplaces, infrared heaters, and other smart heating devices in your design will allow you to create a comfortable space you can use at any time of the year.
Choose the right decking or paving
Outdoor areas have been a staple feature of homes in favourable climates for years. With the advancement of building materials, homeowners can now make their indoor and outdoor spaces work cohesively, giving their homes a more contemporary feel.
With so many fantastic, low-maintenance options now available, selecting the right decking or paving material will save you significant time and money on repairs and upgrades in the future, making it a worthwhile investment.
Although you are undoubtedly well acquainted with the banana, there’s more to this fruit than meets the eye.
We are all familiar with the long, typically yellow, sweet and starchy fruits that are loved the world over.
But did you know, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, the banana is the number one fruit consumed on Earth?
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While there are more than 1,000 different varieties of bananas, the Cavendish, derived from M. acuminata, is far and away the most popular. It stores well, ships well, is resistant to fusarium wilt, and tastes great.
However, there are also red bananas! And did you know there are blue ones, too? Believe it or not, you can actually grow these, and our favorite, yellow, grocery store staple at home, too.
There are lots of great cultivars and species to choose from. Below, we will cover the basics and some general guidelines for growing bananas.
Read on to find out more about growing this celebrity among fruit trees. Here’s what I’ll cover:
What Are Banana Plants?
The plants that we call bananas are grouped into one of two genera, Musaand Ensete.
Musa contains Musa acuminata and M. balbisiana. The first of these two species produces the peelable, yellow fruit we put on our breakfast cereal or grab for a snack.
There are numerous varieties within this species, including those in the Cavendish group, aka the kind of banana we buy at the store.
The starchy fruits commonly known as plantains belong to Musa balbisiana.
The second genus, Ensete, is grown more frequently outside the US and it is full of diversity, too. The ornamental types you may have seen at botanical gardens often belong to this genus.
From a layman’s point of view, the two genera don’t differ greatly. The plants within both groups have large, soft, oblong leaves that fan out from a central trunk – more correctly called a pseudostem.
These plants produce an outsized cluster of tubular, pendant flowers housed within dusty purple bracts, within a large, tear-shaped bud. It’s this structure which ultimately produces the long, curved fruits we all recognize.
All the plants found within these two groups, and in fact, all the plants found within the family Musaceae are herbaceous.
So even though banana plants can grow very tall and produce what is essentially a trunk, they lack the woody growth that would technically make them trees.
In fact, the banana claims another title in this category, as it is among the largest herbaceous plants in the world.
Whichever genus they fall into, the species with edible fruit described under the common label “banana” are incredibly important food crops all around the world.
In Ethiopia, for example, E. ventricosum, commonly known as Ethiopian, or false, banana, is used to make a widely consumed porridge.
This species, in fact, is cultivated across Africa and prized for its ability to produce prolific amounts of food. The root, tender shoots, and fruit of the Ethiopian banana can all be eaten.
In Central and eastern Africa, about half of the available cropland is used to farm this species and its close relatives.
Cultivation and History
The center of diversity for the these plants rests in Southeast Asia. But the range of these popular plants has reached beyond these geographical confines for some time.
Recent research estimates bananas were introduced to South America via oceanic trading around 200 BCE!
Although frost limits the production of fruit, they are grown today in tropical latitudes all around the world.
In the 1600s, the Spanish began to cultivate the banana in earnest in South America. It was this effort that paved the way for commercial cultivation of the gargantuan herb in tropical regions of the continent.
The road to the banana’s fruity monopoly was a long and winding one, however, and not without some considerable hiccups. It wasn’t until the 1900s that popular cultivars began to emerge and take center stage.
The type that reigned supreme and propped up the “banana republic” economies of Central America was ‘Gros Michel,’ charmingly known in English as Big Mike.
Acres upon acres of clones of this seedless fruit were grown in vast monocultures and exported around the world.
Unfortunately, Big Mike got his comeuppance, as all monocultures inevitably do, when fusarium wilt hit plantations hard in the 1950s and virtually drove this variety to extinction.
Enter our beloved Cavendish.
Titan of commercial production, the Cavendish types are cousins to some equally loveable species and cultivars grown in homes and gardens everywhere.
Read on to find out how to grow these large and leafy plants yourself!
Banana Propagation
Generally speaking, there are three basic ways to propagate these fruit trees.
The individual needs of each cultivar or species may vary, so be sure to research the predilections of the plant you have selected while following these general guidelines:
From Seed
Believe it or not, the mighty banana can be grown from seed.
If you’re lucky enough to live in the tropical regions of the world you might have luck finding a wild banana with plenty of seed, but otherwise, there are numerous options for purchase online.
Make sure you buy from a reputable source, to ensure pest- and disease-free seed.
The fruits of wild types are full of small, round, black, glistening seeds. These were bred out of the cultivars sold commercially for eating because it’s not exactly a pleasant experience to get a mouthful of seed.
What this means for you is that if you grow these plants from seed, the fruit that you may eventually produce will also be full of seed. So think about that for a second before you begin.
If you’re undaunted, start by soaking your seeds in warm water for 24 hours. Bananas are tropical plants so they’ll germinate best if every step in this process is done in a warm environment.
Next, fill several four-inch pots with moist potting soil. Plant a seed one inch deep into each four-inch pot and cover with soil.
Water well and stand the pots in a brightly lit location where the temperature will stay around 80°F. Heat mats are very useful during this process as it can be hard to maintain the tropical temperatures the seeds love in the wrong latitude.
Make sure your seeds stay evenly moist while the germination is taking place. Do not let your pots dry out.
Seedlings should emerge in anywhere from two weeks to six months. Germination rates vary widely by cultivar.
Make sure your seedlings, once sprouted, stay warm and moist with regular watering.
After your seedlings reach a few inches high, transplant into larger pots filled with a mixture of compost and potting soil.
From Rhizomes
It’s possible to find the rhizomes, or roots, of banana plants for sale, too.
Bananas are monocots, meaning, they only grow up, not out. For that reason, you can’t take a cutting from a banana and propagate it.
Instead, the underground rhizomes are removed and potted up to grow a clone of the parent plant. These little clones have been lovingly dubbed “pups.”
To grow a banana from a rhizome, start in the spring or summer to ensure adequate light and warmth for growth. Bury it two inches deep in potting soil mixed with compost. They tend to like soil that is rich but freely draining.
Not sure what size pot to use? If your rhizome is three inches wide, use a six-inch pot to give it plenty of room for roots to grow.
Keep the soil moist, but not soaking, while the rhizome begins to sprout. Place the pot in a brightly lit location where the emerging foliage will receive six to eight hours of strong, indirect light.
Keeping your nascent plant warm while it sprouts will help too, so keep it away from any drafts or cold, unheated areas of the house. If you live somewhere in the cool, temperate realms, consider using a heat mat.
From a Pup or Sucker
If you have access to a mature banana plant, you can remove pups for propagation. Wait to remove it in this case until it attains about a third of the height of the main stem. This gives it time to develop strong roots as well.
To do this, use a long sharp knife to cut the sucker’s stem as close as possible to where it attaches to the central mother stem, and dig out the roots below.
This will mean you might need to brush the soil away from the base of the sucker a little bit. Make sure your cutting tool is sterilized before use by cleaning it with a little rubbing alcohol first.
To properly extract a transplantable pup from a potted banana, you’ll have to take your plant out of the pot, lay it on a tarp and excavate the pup’s roots using your fingers.
Once you’ve determined where mama’s roots end and baby’s begin, you can gently saw through the soil and material that holds them together.
You can either plant your pup directly in the ground or into a container.
Make sure to fill your new pot with rich, freely draining potting soil. Most potting soils will work fine, but it doesn’t hurt to add a few handfuls of sterile compost.
If you don’t have compost on hand, feed your tree immediately with a good quality fertilizer formulated for fruit trees.
There are so many great options for organic fertilizer for fruit trees such as this one, from Dr. Earth, available via Amazon.
Transplanting
If you have a seedling, a recently divided pup, or a potted plant from the nursery, dig a hole as deep as the root ball in a spot with rich, freely draining soil.
Carefully lower the plant into the hole, making sure the bottom of the plant’s pseudostem is level with the soil. If your soil is sandy or gritty, add plenty of compost around your banana’s roots.
Water well before you backfill the hole and after planting. Finally, top dress with a few inches of good quality compost.
How to Grow Banana Plants
As with any other plant, the trick to growing healthy banana plants is to emulate the natural habitat these giant herbs love. Think warm, humid, and lots of light.
To grow bananas in the ground outdoors, you need to live in a frost-free Zone, or be prepared to properly winterize them.
Certain species, such as Musa basjoo, also known as hardy banana, can tolerate USDA Zones 5 through 10, but they’ll need to be wrapped in burlap and horticultural fleece once the frost arrives.
For most species of Musa and their close cousins in the Ensete genus, year-round, in-ground growing will only succeed in fertile, moist, humid conditions in USDA Zones 9 through 11.
If that describes your situation, lucky you! Start by locating a place in the garden that receives part shade to full sun and is sheltered from the wind. The soft leaves easily rip and tear in the wind.
When growing outside, it’s a good idea to leave at least eight feet on either side of your banana to really let it spread out. These monsters grow fast and go from rhizome to fruiting adult in less than a year.
If, like most of us, you live somewhere colder than the balmy climes of USDA Zone 9, never fear. You can grow many species in a pot, although you might want to take a look at the many dwarf varieties.
The pot can live outside on a warm patio during spring and summer, or take up permanent residence in a bright corner inside.
To grow a house banana, the instructions are fairly similar to planting outside.
First, use a pot that’s large enough for new roots to grow into. I like to make sure there’s about six inches on either side of the root ball.
Settle your plant in and fill the pot with plenty of sterile compost mixed with potting soil. Make sure the top of the root ball is level with the soil you’ve added. Water well.
Place your potted banana near a window that will provide six to eight hours of bright indirect light.
Some direct light is perfectly fine, so long as it isn’t all day. In fluctuating direct light, the foliage can get badly scorched.
If you don’t have a great spot, try hanging a grow light above your plant.
Choose a room where your banana will stay warm. These tropical plants do not like drafts or significant temperature fluctuations.
They also prefer humid air, which most houses do not have! Daily misting with a spray bottle will help keep leaves vibrant and green.
If you want your banana to live outside for part of the year, make sure to move it only once warm temperatures have arrived. To minimize my plant’s stress, I move it outside when the temperature is reliably about 70°F and above.
I do this gradually, of course, giving the plant exposure to outside conditions for about an hour at first, and gradually extending this period over the course of a week.
Bananas do love full, hot sun, but they have to be acclimated to this kind of light, otherwise their foliage will become browned and burned.
When nighttime temperatures start to dip into the lower 50s again, it’s time to move your tender bananas back inside.
If you have a cold-hardy variety and are located no further north than a USDA Zone 5 growing region, you can winterize your banana using lots of insulation.
Finally, for growing indoors or out, consistent watering is key. These plants love moist, but not soggy, soil.
In virtually all places of the world except the tropical latitudes, this will necessitate almost weekly watering. For potted bananas, needing to water several times a week is more likely.
A good rule of thumb is to water when the top inch of the soil is dry. This will ensure the soil never quite dries out, but doesn’t get waterlogged.
When watering, do so thoroughly, until excess water comes out of the bottom of the pot.
If your plant is in the ground and you don’t receive an inch or more of rain per week, turn your hose on to a trickle and leave it at the base of your plant for an hour or two once a week.
Growing Tips
Plant in rich, freely draining soils.
Add compost when planting.
Provide plenty of space, at least eight feet, for these rapid growers to spread outdoors.
Site in a location with ample bright, indirect light.
Water consistently, 1-3 times a week, depending on your location.
Pruning and Maintenance
When it comes to banana maintenance, there are just a few essential things to do to keep your plants in good health.
Make sure your plants are well watered and well fed, and they’ll mostly take care of themselves.
As herbaceous plants, bananas are relatively short lived. They pack a lot of activity into a very short amount of time. In fact, most species only take about 12 to 18 months to go from shoot to fruit under ideal conditions.
In total, the average lifespan of an adult plant in commercial production is about two years. This is partially because the stems only fruit once.
To keep plants as productive as possible, farmers remove and grow new suckers, cutting down the mother plant once she’s done producing.
In a garden setting or in a pot, and under your loving, watchful eye, bananas can live six years or longer. All of them will eventually fruit or start producing pups, after which the main stem will die.
Removing these pups, or suckers, is an important part of maintenance and ensuring the longevity of your plant. These little babies can cause overcrowding and rob your main plant of nutrients.
Dying or damaged leaves must also be pruned occasionally. These can be snipped with sharp pruners at the leaf’s base.
Be very careful not to damage the soft tissue of the main stem and make sure you use a clean, sharp pair of pruners.
Fertilization is another important part of maintenance as these plants are gluttons that require plenty of food. During the growing season, both indoor and outdoor plants benefit from monthly feeding.
Apply a balanced fertilizer with equal ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (NPK) to support leaves, flowers, and fruit, or make a compost tea.
I prefer to always use compost and compost teas for fertilization as this method ensures your plant receives important micronutrients too, like magnesium.
These kinds of fertilizers also work to improve the soil, which ultimately benefits your plants as well as the greater garden ecosystem.
Whatever your method, always water well after fertilizing so nutrients quickly reach the roots.
Pay attention to how your plant responds to fertilizer, too. Some bananas need a little more food, others a little less, depending on the growing conditions and quality of the soil.
Signs of overfeeding include yellowed leaves, or whitish crystals that form a crust on the surface of the soil.
Lastly, water, water, water. Hailing from regions where rainfall is a near constant, these are inherently thirsty plants. As mentioned previously, they need watering at least weekly.
Banana Species and Cultivars to Select
To successfully grow banana plants, choose your cultivars wisely.
There are lots of different options with varying levels of cold hardiness, sunlight, and watering needs. Pick the plant that best suits your region.
There is a wide and wonderful world of bananas to choose from, folks! Red, yellow, maroon, you name it! Below are just a few of our favorites.
Blue Java
‘Blue Java’ was one of the bananas tantalizingly referenced in the introduction of this guide. For a little while, it has blue fruits!
This cultivar is a hybrid cross of M. acuminata and M. balbisiana. The latter commonly produces purple-tinged fruits in the wild.
While the fruits of ‘Blue Java’ do eventually turn the familiar, deep yellow when ripe, they’re a gorgeous, pale blue-green for a couple weeks prior.
‘Blue Java’ can be comfortably grown in USDA Zones 8 to 11. Also known as the ice cream banana, the fruits of this hybrid are especially sweet and quite gooey.
An itty-bitty version of the world’s most beloved fruit tree, the dwarf Cavendish banana, another cultivar of M. acuminata, is available at Nature Hills.
Although this variety only grows up to six feet tall, it is more than capable of producing plenty of sweet yellow fruits each year, plus it’s small enough for indoor or outdoor growing.
This one is hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11.
Ethiopian
Remarkable for its size and huge, red-ribbed leaves, Ensete ventricosum,or Ethiopian banana, can reach 40 feet tall in its native habitat. Outside of Central Africa, 20 feet is more realistic when grown in optimal conditions.
This species is longer lived than most, and does not fruit or produce suckers until it’s about five years old. The fruits themselves are hard and dry and inedible.
If you have the right climate and the space, this is a great choice for outdoor growing. Ethiopian banana is hardy in USDA Zones 10 to 11.
‘Maurelii,’ aka red Abyssinian banana, features the red ribs of the species plant and bright leaf undersides. It’s a bit more cold hardy, suitable for growing in Zones 8 to 11.
Although this is one of the smaller types, it can still grow up to about eight feet high. The fruits, if you manage to get any, are small and inedible.
Popular in horticulture, M. acuminata ‘Zebrina’ is an excellent choice for container growing.
Sporting beautiful, dark green leaves with red spots, this is one of the most striking cultivars around.
Hardy in USDA Zones 9 to 11, this is an indoor or greenhouse plant for most of us. The small-seeded, dark-skinned fruits this cultivar produces are sweet and edible.
Managing Pests and Disease
Unfortunately, the mighty banana is as well loved by us humans as it is by pests and pathogens.
Some species and cultivars are more robust than others, so take time to research the plant you choose to grow. Find out what its particular Achilles’ heel may be and keep a careful eye out for those afflictions.
Fortunately for those of us growing in temperate climes, a lot of the pests and diseases that attack these plants in the tropics cannot thrive here.
We just need to be concerned mainly with maintaining the environmental conditions these warmth-loving plants desire.
Pests
There are a number of pests that can show up to make a meal of your plants, here are some of the most common culprits you may run into:
Banana Aphid
As the common name suggests, the preferred host plant of this tiny, dark brown aphid, also known as Pentalonia nigronervosa,is the banana.
Found everywhere these plants are grown, it will feed on other tropical plants such as taro and ginger as well.
The insect is a phloem feeder, using its long mouthparts to pierce tender tissues and suck out the sap of its hosts. Feeding can kill young plants in large infestations, but typically, the damage from the aphids themselves is negligible.
Unfortunately, these aphids are the vectors of many significant diseases of bananas, including bunchy top virus. The honeydew produced by these aphids also creates a perfect environment for different types of mold to grow.
These aphids are reddish to dark brown and about 1/25 to 1/12 of an inch long. After seven to 10 generations of wingless aphids have been produced, adults will suddenly grow wings and disperse to other plants.
To check for banana aphids, examine the undersides and midribs of your plant’s leaves. Aphids often cluster and feed in these areas.
A serious pest of bananas found everywhere these plants are grown, Cosmopolites sordidus is a small, dark brown to gray beetle that lays its eggs in the underground corms.
The adult is about half an inch long with a glossy shell and a long proboscis, as is common to weevils.
The larvae, once hatched, feed and tunnel, causing tremendous damage to the plant’s root system.
Although the larvae feed for only about two weeks before pupating and turning into adults, the damage can be extensive enough to completely ruin a banana’s rhizomatous mat and cause the plant to topple and fall.
The adult beetles do not cause much damage and commonly go long periods of time without food.
Unfortunately there are no effective chemical controls for the banana borer.
Burrowing Nematode
Native to Australasia, the burrowing nematode (Radopholus similis)is found throughout the regions where these plants are now commonly grown for the market.
Disseminated by the movement of infected plant material, these tiny worm-like parasites are incredibly destructive pests. Nematodes penetrate the roots of the plants and lay eggs inside, causing large areas of necrosis, or rot.
Symptoms of the burrowing nematode are largely invisible until the infestation is advanced, at which point the trees often tumble over. If the roots are examined, large black and brown lesions will be visible.
Movement of plant material within areas where the nematode is extant is strictly regulated in commercial production.
Strong pesticides can kill these pests but the preferred method of management is to make sure the plant material you purchase has been inspected and is disease and pest free.
Coconut Scale
Found throughout the tropical and subtropical regions of the world, coconut scale (Aspidiotus destructor), a major pest of bananas, is also sometimes found in greenhouses in more northern climes.
This insect is a circular to oval armored scale, yellowish to translucent in coloration. The adults are about two millimeters in diameter, so they’re very hard to see!
Coconut scale causes discoloration and disfiguration of the leaves. In large infestations, these insects can kill adult and juvenile plants.
Perform regular health inspections of your plant and look for scale on the soft tissue and undersides of the leaves. Occasionally, adult males may be visible. These look like tiny, reddish-brown flies.
Proper pruning and disposal of infested leaves is key to controlling these troublesome insects.
Wash affected plants using a cloth and soapy water to remove the majority of the infestation.
Carefully apply neem oil to the harder to reach parts of your banana plant to kill the remaining insects. Always follow all instructions on the back of the bottle.
Sugar Cane Weevil
The sugar cane weevil (Metamasius hemipterus)causes damage similar to the banana borer.
Eggs laid within the main stem of the banana hatch into small larvae which tunnel and feed on soft tissue, causing extensive structural damage.
The adults are about three-quarters of an inch long and have a distinctive pattern of red and pale brown to yellow patches on their glossy exoskeletons.
They sport the same long rostrum, or “nose,” that is common to weevils. These pests are spread via infested plant material.
This pest is more commonly found in large banana plantations. If you find it at home, destroy adults quickly by sweeping them into a cup of soapy water.
The troublesome larvae are unfortunately hard to reach and therefore hard to treat.
The easiest form of management is to ensure you buy inspected pest-free banana plant material and perform routine health inspections.
Disease
Unfortunately, banana plants can suffer from a number of troublesome diseases, too.
Generally, if you choose to grow just a few bananas you shouldn’t encounter too many of these issues.
The most severe problems emerge when these plants are grown in large monocultures.
Anthracnose
A common disease around the world, Colletotrichum musae, the species of fungi that plagues bananas, is commonly found in warm, wet environments.
The fungal spores survive in moist decaying leaves and enter the fruits through small wounds, causing black patches and discoloration. Sometimes, anthracnose can also cause fruits to ripen prematurely.
The spores are spread via almost every possible vector including animals, wind, and water, and are best eliminated by keeping your plants tidy and free of dead or dying material.
Bunchy Top Virus (BBTV)
This destructive virus causes the production of progressively shorter, narrower, and smaller leaves, forming a tight bunch of leaves at the top of an affected plant’s main stem.
Infected leaves are stained with darker green dots and dashes, in a pattern sometimes referred to as “morse code.” These leaves become brittle and often brown at the edges.
Plants infected by BBTV do not fruit. All species within the genus Musa are known to be susceptible, making this potentially the biggest threat to global banana production worldwide.
Currently extant in Africa, Asia, Australia, and the South Pacific, BBTV is spread by the pan-global aphid species Pentalonia nigronervosa, discussed above.
There is no known cure for this virus, but the transportation of plant material out of areas with endemic BBTV is strictly regulated.
If your banana comes down with this disease, destroy your plant immediately by burning and report it to your local agriculture department.
Fusarium Wilt
Panama disease, as it is commonly known, is the disease that caused the collapse of the ‘Gros Michel’ cultivar that once ruled the world. It is still at large.
But nowadays there are resistant cultivars, such as those in the Cavendish group.
The fungal pathogen that causes it, Fusarium oxysporum, is soilborne and causes yellowing of the leaves of adult plants, a foul odor as plant tissue rots, and finally, death.
Nothing can be done to prevent fusarium wilt. Once a plant is infected it must be removed and destroyed.
Mosaic Virus
This widespread virus, also known as cucumber mosaic virus, occurs across the temperate, tropical, and subtropical climes of the world and is common in a variety of crops.
It causes mottling and minor distortion of the leaves, but it does not gravely impact fruit development or production.
There is no known cure for this virus. The best method of prevention is ensuring bananas are not planted near the favored hosts of this disease, such as squashes or cucumbers.
The virus is spread by aphids who are blown from infected plants to non-infected ones.
Rhizome Rot
Rhizome rot can be caused by a variety of bacteria and fungi. In the tropics, Erwinia carotovora and E. chrysanthemi are two of the major bacterial culprits.
These bacteria live in the soil and enter through damaged tissue, causing the plant’s rhizome to soften and decay.
One of the first symptoms aboveground is a failure of rhizomes to sprout. Unfortunately there is nothing that can be done to prevent this soilborne disease from advancing once it has taken hold.
In the temperate climes, rhizome rot often occurs in cold, moist conditions and can be caused by numerous pathogens.
Keeping soil freely draining and properly winterizing outdoor plants, or moving bananas inside once cold weather arrives, can help.
Sigatoka Disease
There are two different fungi that may cause two different versions of the globally important sigatoka disease.
Black sigatoka is caused by the fungus Mycosphaerella fijiensis, and yellow sigatoka by M. musicola.
Both species of fungi cause defoliation and reduced fruit set.
Yellow sigatoka begins as small, pale green spots on the leaf which progress to become brown and yellow blotches.
Black sigatoka produces reddish-brown flecks which progress to become larger, darker spots, often with yellow rings around them.
As with fusarium wilt, the pathogens that cause this disease thrive in the warm, wet weather bananas love.
To control sigatoka disease, standard commercial treatment requires applications of some quite heavy-duty fungicides that are not commonly available for home growers.
Fortunately, this is not a disease that typically affects just a handful of plants. It is more frequently seen in the large monocultures cultivated by commercial growers.
As with most diseases, your best defense is to keep your plants healthy with adequate, timely watering and feeding.
Harvesting
If you ask me, home grown bananas should be picked when they’ve changed color to a deep yellow, or reddish brown – depending on the type you are growing – and are soft to the touch.
You can remove them singly from their cluster, but it’s best to harvest the entire bunch.
Many commercial growers will tell you to pick bananas when they’re light green, or just starting to turn reddish brown.
Since the fruits continue to ripen after they’ve been picked, you can leave light green fruit on a sunny windowsill and they’ll be ripe in about a week.
In my opinion, however, tree-ripened fruit always tastes better. Experiment. See what you find out.
When it’s time to harvest, use a very sharp knife, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, to sever the stem at the top of the fruit bunch. Just be careful not to damage the main stem of the plant in the process.
Preserving
Once your bananas are ripe there’s little you can do to preserve their sweet, soft, dense texture.
Putting this fruit in the fridge will change its flavor and alter the experience of eating it fresh. Freezing will also break down its fragile structure.
You can, however, refrigerate or freeze bananas if you just plan to use them in baking or to cook with later. Our sister site, Foodal, has a helpful guide to walk you through how to freeze the fruits.
If you want to preserve your home grown crop, try dehydrating slices of banana in a countertop dehydrator. Foodal has a guide to dehydrating fruits and veggies which can help you out.
Bananas cut into quarter of an inch slices generally take about 10 to 12 hours to dehydrate at 135℉.
Foodal also has lots more information about how to store bananas, which will buy you time while you sift through millions of mouthwatering recipes.
Recipes and Cooking Ideas
There are an abundance of ways to use bananas once they’re ripe, or already getting a bit squishy.
E. ventricosum, M. acuminata, M. balbisiana, M. basjoo
Grow your Favorite Fruit at Home
Don’t confine this superstar of the fruit world to the grocery store, give it a whirl at home! With the right amount of warmth, light, and moisture, you can boast home grown bananas.
Remember, it only takes 12 to 18 months to go from shoot all the way to fruit.
If you lack the heat or sun necessary for fruit production, choose a leafier ornamental cultivar whose foliage alone is enough of a crowd pleaser.
Situate it in a border where its large, luscious leaves can stand out against the bright colors of summer annuals, or give it a home on your patio.
Inside, the verdant foliage of a banana is a salve to a sunshine-seeking soul, especially in winter.
Do you grow bananas at home? Which species or cultivars? Tell us what issues you have encountered or what triumphs you’ve savored! Comments are always welcome!
