January for many veggie gardeners is a time for prep and planning. Seed starting will be here before we know it, and it’s time to sort through our store of seed packets, flip through catalogs, and replenish our supplies. However, for Dawn Fountain in Surprise, Arizona (Zone 9), the growing never stops, and the harvests keep coming straight through winter. Dawn has shared her small but mighty resilient garden several times in the past (check out her previous submissions: Dawn’s Backyard Garden in Arizona, Dawn’s Spring Garden, Indoor Growing in Arizona, Dawn Gets Ready for Fall, and Dawn’s Garden in Arizona Battles Extreme Temperatures), and each time it appears she is growing more in her lovely but limited space. Today she is sharing the story of how she found herself gardening in these unforgiving conditions as well as photos of what’s been growing this season.
I started gardening in 1994 when a neighbor showed me how to grow portulaca in a tire. Then I started tomatoes and carnations. Because of a life event, I had to let that garden go until 2007. Then I married my current husband, and he built me a garden. Had to abandon that one for a while, and when we moved back to Arizona in 2024, I got this one.
My main garden (clockwise): lettuce, beets, carrots, radishes (I will enter them in the county fair in April), cauliflower, strawberries, broccoli, cabbage, basil, peas, cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley
Left to right: cosmos for my grandfather, Ketchup and Mustard™ rose (Rosa‘WEKzazette’, Zones 5–9) for my mom, and Scentuous™ rose (Rosa ‘TAN97281’, Zones 6–9) for my grandmother
My side garden I started mostly from seed: mint, lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, lantana, grapes
Three of my roses: Neil Diamond(Rosa ‘WEKdereroro’, Zones 4–10), Peace(R. ‘Peace’, Zones 5–10), and a basic red; and peppers (habaneros and jalapeños) for infused honeys
My apple tree with sunflowers
Baby cauliflower from the main garden
Where I start my seeds and grow inside (my dining room window)
Thank you so much for another fabulous update from your garden, Dawn! It is such a treat to see your space continue to evolve as you make more additions, and each subsequent season becomes more and more bountiful.
Your winter garden doesn’t need to be as lively as Dawn’s to be worthy of a feature on the blog. From snow-covered trees to those limited winter bloomers, we would love to see and appreciate your garden during this period of downtime. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!
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Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
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Fine Gardening Recommended Products
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Featuring gorgeous photography and advice for landscapers, Planting in a Post-Wild World by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West is dedicated to the idea of a new nature—a hybrid of both the wild and the cultivated—that can nourish in our cities and suburbs.
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Lightweight and Breathable MATERIAL Good for protecting Plant: the plant frost cover material is 0.74 oz/sq non-woven polypropylene fabric, which is lightweight, breathable, and durable. The plant blanket frost protection allows sunlight reach the plants, perfect for protecting plants from the damage of freeze or frost. Wide Application In your Garden Work. The plant row cover not only can work as a barrier against frost, but also can be a great tool for germination and good for rapid seedling growth. By using the fabric plant covers over your plant, you can start the plant earlier in the spring and extending the growing season of your plants. How to Use the Plant Covers: you can cover the plant covers for freeze over your the plants loosely directly and then secure the plant frost blanket with soil, stones or staples. You can also support the floating row covers with a hoop, make enough room for plants to breath and grow. You could also cut the plant covers into different sizes for different purposes.
Natural local materials like nearby rocks, stone, gravel. Less carbon footprint transporting materials that are likely nearby. I love different textures used together. More plants, less hardscaping is my preference these days.
Protective clothing from the weather. Comfortable layers. A hat. French work shirts got very trendy in the fashion world for a minute, but they are very useful in the garden because of the thick canvas fabric that plants don’t catch onto. Layers for the cold. While working in the winters at Dixter I think I had on at least 5 layers. Waterproofs are essential. I am a toolbelt person…always secateurs (mine are Japanese or Felcos for pruning), my Dixter hand trowel, a pocket attachment for a pen and notepad, a hori hori, and a hand-saw if I am pruning. And clip for my gloves.
Tool you can’t live without:
My Sneeborer wide trowel and Dixter designed short spade. These excellent tools are meaningful to me as I got them on my first real visit to Great Dixter, a succession planting Symposium in 2016. I had no idea I’d still be using these same tools almost 10 years later. I tend to get attached to the history of things.
Just to be with plants and to be outside connected with the outdoors. I love trying to make something beautiful and interesting that is alive, while also providing for wildlife—that is more important than anything to me these days. And being with other gardeners is really fun. Maybe the best part. I am a team person!
Thanks so much, Julie! (You can follow her on Instagram @julieaweiss.)
UNTIL I MET James Young, early in 2025, it hadn’t really registered in my brain that some of the familiar annuals I grow from seed, like cosmos and marigolds and even purple basil or black hollyhock (above), could also double as dye plants.
James is co-owner of Grand Prismatic Seed, a gorgeous and information-packed online seed catalog based in Northern Utah, where plants that offer natural dyes are one specialty alongside regional natives and High Desert-adapted edibles and flowers.
James is passionate about the fiber arts, and he’s been an expert knitter since high school and is also deep into the art and science of natural dyes, whether sourced from garden plants or foraged ones.
In 2016, James co-founded Grand Prismatic with Guy Banner, a horticulturist at Red Butte Garden and Arboretum at the University of Utah, who works part time at their seed company.
Read along as you listen to the Jan. 12, 2026 edition of my public-radio show and podcast using the player below. You can subscribe to all future editions on Apple Podcasts (iTunes) or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
James Young: Hey, Margaret. I am doing well. It’s abnormally warm here in Utah, so that’s a little jarring. We’re about 20 degrees warmer than average for this time of year.
Margaret: And I should say we’re recording in December, a little while before this is going to air. So who knows what will happen by then because the thing about the weather these days is it’s totally unpredictable. [Laughter.] We’ve been super-cold. Yeah,
James: It’s a little … One of my favorite things about farming in Utah is being able to stop weeding and worrying about things outdoors once it’s usually mid-October, but this year it’s just been so warm that we have lots of weeds germinating and growing.
Margaret: Oh, well. Keep at it. [Laughter.] So when we did a “New York Times” garden column in 2025, I was struck by just how many familiar plants, as I said in the introduction, that I think of as cutting flowers or herbs or whatever, fitting into some other usage category are also dye plants. And I want to get to some of that diversity in a minute and talk about lots of your favorites. And you have an incredible assortment in the Grand Prismatic catalog. But first, a little background on you, because if I remember correctly from the last time we spoke, your personal sort of origin story about plant-based dyeing involved knitting and a bathtub. Is that right? Were those the two key elements? [Laughter.]
James: Yeah, those are two keys. So when I was in high school, my sister and my Grandma kind of teamed up to teach me how to knit. And so knitting was my gateway into the fiber arts world. And my sister’s friend’s mom worked at a little knitting shop in Ogden, Utah, pretty close to where we lived. And she did a lot of dyeing, and most of that was in her bathtub with a lot of roving that then she would spin into yarn. And so she would talk about her dyeing process and she would mainly use things like Kool-Aid to do these really gaudy, bright colors.
Margaret: Forgive me for laughing.
James: Yeah. I can’t even imagine what her tub looked like. I’m sure it had all sorts of rings of colors in it that she couldn’t wash out. But she had mentioned that back in medieval Europe, they would use urine to dye indigo, or use in indigo dyeing, what’s referred to as a sig vat. And that kind of sparked this curiosity in me of all of the types of dyes that had been used before synthetic dyes.
And yeah, throughout human history up until the mid-1800s, all dyes were natural dyes. And as an avid hiker when I was younger and lover of plants, just learning that I could use these beautiful plants around me to color wool and then make beautiful things was just a really exciting thing. So yeah, that’s kind of what led me into natural dyes. And then when my partner, Guy, and I lived in Oregon, I really struggled with the wet weather there in the winter. And so that’s when I really made dyeing a sustained craft for myself because it was just so cozy to cook up a pot of dye plants, of flowers, lichens, other things that I could forage or grow, and then just kind of be a little witch, stirring my pot, be warm, cozy.
Margaret: Over the cauldron, huh? In the winter? [Laughter.]
James: Yeah. And then just be able to make bright, beautiful things in a time that felt pretty cold and dreary.
Margaret: And the diversity, as I said a minute ago, the diversity of things that many of them were familiar to me, but I didn’t know they were dye plants. I knew that certain plants I’d heard of, certain perennials like madder or whatever were dye plants, but I didn’t know that so many things around me were. And of course I sort of must have known in my brain somewhere, but I didn’t look at them and think that as well.
So if we were sort of going to begin an adventure and we didn’t have Kool-Aid and a bathtub, if we were as gardeners going to begin an adventure, I mean, is it some of the annuals that we would think about starting with if we wanted to try first time out? And is that where one begins to sort of …
James: Yeah, I think that annuals are a great way to start, especially if you don’t have a lot of space, because a lot of them can be grown on a patio in pots. And I think marigolds are a really great gateway plant for dyeing. Before I got into dyes, I was kind of bored by marigolds. They’re just so ubiquitous and they weren’t something that really caught my attention. And then after getting into dyeing, just seeing the range of beautiful colors you can make with them and how effortless they are to grow was just really exciting. And there’s so many varieties of marigolds that you can even use the leaves for dyeing for ecoprinting.
Margaret: So just tell us real quick what ecoprinting is, because that’s one of the really fun projects that I even think I could do. Do you know what I mean? It looks so artistic, the finished product, but it doesn’t require me to sketch something on my own, meaning that kind of artistic.
James: Yeah. Yeah, definitely. So there are multiple ways to do ecoprinting. There’s a Japanese method called Tatakizome, where you actually hammer flowers into fabric [above]. So that one’s kind of fun, especially to do with younger people. I feel like it’s a fun interactive way to dye. And so that you just need to have your fabric cleaned and then you need to apply a mordant to it.
Margaret: Right. There’s that word: mordant.
James: Yeah. So mordants are really important for natural dyeing. It’s basically a mineral salt that forms a bridge between your material that you’re dyeing, your natural fiber, and your dye compound.
And so I feel like it can sound intimidating, but it’s pretty simple. You basically just measure out the right amount of mordant and then put your fibers in it. For cotton, you just need hot water and the mordant and the fiber. For protein fibers, you’ll need to heat it up on a stove top and keep it at a sustained heat for longer. But then once you have that mordant on the natural fiber for ecoprinting, you can either do the flower-pounding, that Tatakizome method, or you can arrange the flowers that you have however you’d like on the fabric, and then you basically roll it up really tightly [below]. And so I like to use a copper pipe, because I can really push down on the fabric when I roll. And so getting that pressure really tight will get really crisp prints. And then so you’ll roll it up and then tie the fabric to that copper pipe, and then I’ll just put it over a pot of steaming water for a half an hour or so, and then it just does this really nice crisp print.
But then there’s also, you can just crumble up a bunch of dried flowers instead of doing a crisp print, and even just squish it all together. It doesn’t have to be-
Margaret: Right. It can be kind of more blotches and abstract and so forth.
James: I can do like really beautiful watercolor effects. And so I feel like the eco-printing stuff is really a-
Margaret: Great entry point, isn’t it?
James: Yeah. And not only because it’s pretty simple, but you don’t need that much dye material to be able to do it. Because if you’re wanting to do an immersion dye of yardage of cotton fabric-
Margaret: You have a big vat and whatever, and we’re back to your witches’ brew or your bathtub.
James: Yes. Yeah, definitely. You’ll need a big pot, lots of material.
Margaret: And the thing, and then we’re just skimming the surface in this conversation, because obviously time is short and so forth, but there’s great instructions, your website is very rich in information. And also I’ll give the link to some of the basic how-to that’s on your website. And then you also refer people to some places, books and things, places you’ve learned over the years that you respect and think are incredible sources of the how-to information.
In meantime, we could talk about some plants [laughter]. And there are of course also perennials. So if we think we want to maybe invest in the future of dyeing, we just talked about maybe some annuals for pots and so forth that are quick, but we can also get some perennials in the ground that aren’t going to pay off for a while, and those are on your website.
What are a couple of those, for instance?
James: I think the one that I always encourage people to get in the ground, if they’re thinking that dyeing is going to be something they’ll want to be doing, is madder. So Rubia tinctorum; it is one of the best sources for a red pigment, which is difficult to get in natural dyes. And it’s really nice to get in as soon as possible because ideally you would wait three growing seasons until you harvest the roots to dye with [above]. And so the sooner you get it in, the closer you are to that harvest. And I’ve had great luck with plants that are just two years old.
Once you start growing it, if you don’t cut it back when it goes to seed, it will aggressively spread through your garden. So I also encourage people to, before the berries are ripe, just cut it back to the ground or cut those berries off so that it doesn’t spread around where you don’t want it.
But because it does spread, I often end up having one- or two-year-old plants in places that I don’t really want them. And when I’ve used those, I’ve gotten lovely coral colors sometimes.
Margaret: Interesting. Interesting.
James: But yeah, three years you’re going to have the nice large roots that will be full of the pigment as Alizarin—that’s the nice red pigment.
Margaret: And so with that, with the sort of quicker, the annual types, or the perennials, some of the perennials that will pay off earlier, what are some … I mean, I was fascinated when we spoke before. Some things, again, that are in people’s gardens, like black-eyed Susans, Rudbeckia hirta, black hollyhock, the Alcea rosea[photo, top of page]. I mean, these are things that are also dye plants and yet they may be in our gardens already, yes?
James: Yeah, definitely. And those will produce flowers the first year and then be perennial, which is great. And dyer’s chamomile [above] is another perennial that I think is really lovely to add to a dyer’s garden. It’s Cota tinctoria. It has a lot of different flavonoid dyes in it, a key one being Luteolin, which-
Margaret: It sounds yellow, lutea.
James: It just has the most wonderful warm yellow dye. It’s really light-fast, wash-fast, and it really layers beautifully with other natural dyes. So with indigo to get nice greens or madder for a bright long-lasting orange, and they usually will produce some flowers in their first year, but the second year they really explode. And it’s one that has really surprised me with how cold-hardy it is. And I know this year’s a lot warmer than other years in my area, but some that I have growing at my sister’s house have been blooming up until this point, so through multiple frosts. So yeah, just a super-tough plant. And it also brings in a lot of beneficial insects to the garden, which is nice.
Margaret: Right. The dyer’s chamomile. Where does the color blue come from, for instance? Or if I want green, where does that come from? We talked about some things that are red. We talked about madder, and some things that are sort of probably yellow, but where do these other colors come from?
James: For blue, there are hundreds of species of plants that contain the precursor for the indigo pigment Indigotin, but there’s probably about five main ones that humans have found to be, I guess, more cost-effective to grow for the space and the amount of dye in it. And so Indigofera tinctoria is true indigo, and that’s native to India and Southeast Asia. Indigofera suffruticosa, known as anil, is native to Central and South America. And so a lot of Mayan and Aztec dyes were dyed with that. In Europe, Isatis tinctoria or woad was probably the most common. And that’s something that a lot of people contact us for seed for, but it’s pretty invasive in the Western U.S., so it’s not legal for us to transport seeds. But in some parts of the country, you can grow it. And it has less indigo per leaf than other varieties, but still makes beautiful blues.
And then Persicaria tinctoria is Japanese indigo [above. being harvested], and that’s what we have found to be the most adaptable of the indigo-bearing species to grow in the U.S. From Alaska to Texas, you can grow Persicaria tinctoria. And so that’s probably one of our favorite plants to grow, and just grown as an annual, and it has a really high content of indigo. And so that’s a great one to use for blue, of course, but also pairing with yellow dyes for green, because green is actually… It’s strange to think that green’s hard to get with natural dyes since you look outside and everything is green, but-
Margaret: That’s why I asked, because I wondered, is it the easiest thing to get or the hardest? Because it was going to be one or the other [laughter].
James: It’s the harder ones to get for sure. And so usually pairing indigo with a yellow dye is a great way to get green. Something like the black-eyed Susan, Rudbeckia hirta, that can get you olivey-green color. It’s slightly less light-fast, I would say. And if you spill something that’s acidic on it, it will kind of change the color. Sometimes I’ll get weird maroon splotches with pH changes, but it’s definitely a fun one to use for greens, just not as stable.
Margaret: So besides selling seed for things that we’ve been talking about and many, many other possibilities, you also sell harvested material to use for dyeing. Is that true? Did I make that up?
James: Yeah. Usually I think in 2025 it wasn’t till July that we posted our dried dye materials. And each year it’s a different mix of things. Usually we’ll hoard a bunch of dye materials for our own projects, and then when we have overflow, we’ll list it to customers.
Margaret: So some people get into it that way; they try it that way as well.
James: Yeah. And I think that it’s nice to get some material that someone else has grown if you don’t have a lot of space to grow things or you’re wondering if dyeing is something that you’ll actually be enjoying, but there’s also a lot of stuff you can harvest. A lot of invasives just in your neighborhood can be used for dyeing. And so I love growing things and being able to tend things, but if you don’t have space or time to do that, you can definitely find a list of invasives in your area that can be used for dyeing.
Margaret: So let’s talk about some foraged things that you … I think you mentioned lichen at one point, for example, some foraged things that people might recognize the names of or whatever that you’ve also used.
James: When we lived in Oregon, we would like to go out into the forest after big windstorms and find lungwort lichen that had fallen from branches, and that would do a really beautiful cinnamon color on wool. Oak galls are really good. They’re high in tannins. And so with that, and with the lichen, you don’t need to use a mordant if you don’t want to because of that high tannin content.
Here in Utah, we have a lot of phragmites that grows along waterways, that chokes out native wetlands, and that can be used for a greenish-colored dye. Again, not as light-fast as indigo, but still lovely. In the Western states, like I mentioned, woad being invasive, there is so much dyer’s wood up in the mountains here. And so people in our region can just go harvest free blue in the wild. And not only are you getting a nice pigment or dye, but you are also getting rid of that invasive that kind of chokes out the native habitat.
Margaret: And you dye, not just fabrics, you dye your wool as well, right? You dye wool for your knitting.
James: Wool is probably the main thing I’ve dyed over the years. I recently switched over to cotton because my sister has been teaching me how to quilt. And so it’s been a fun transition to move over to cotton, but yeah.
Margaret: Well, James Young—all the fiber arts; you’re trying everything, right?
James: I love to dabble. I definitely say I’m not a master in any of them.
Margaret: Well, it looks pretty good to me. The stuff that I’ve seen of yours looks pretty good to me. I’m so glad to talk to you again. And as I said, we just dabbled a little bit in some of the how-to, but I’ll give links to the information on your site for a deeper dive, and also some of the references that you recommend. I’ll do give those links. And also, of course, to your catalog, which is pretty spectacular.
And as I said in the introduction, isn’t just dye plants, a lot of regional natives and High Desert-adapted flowers and edibles and so forth. So especially for Western listeners, really some beautiful things. And as I said, I’m just happy to speak to you again. So thanks for making time today.
James: Yeah, thank you so much.
(All photos from Grand Prismatic Seed, used with permission.)
more about dye plants
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MY WEEKLY public-radio show, rated a “top-5 garden podcast” by “The Guardian” newspaper in the UK, began its 16th year in March 2025. It’s produced at Robin Hood Radio, the smallest NPR station in the nation. Listen locally in the Hudson Valley (NY)-Berkshires (MA)-Litchfield Hills (CT) Mondays at 8:30 AM Eastern, rerun at 8:30 Saturdays. Or play the Jan. 12, 2026 show using the player near the top of this transcript. You can subscribe to all future editions on iTunes/Apple Podcasts or Spotify (and browse my archive of podcasts here).
Douglas firs won’t produce cones until they are about 15 years old, but they will still be a long way off their mature size.
Along the way, you can help yours develop a pleasing shape by pruning off bent, crossing, or otherwise ugly branches.
You should always prune any branches that are dead or dying. Be sure to cut as close to the trunk or branch as you can so you don’t leave behind unsightly stumps.
Propagation
Vegetative reproduction has proven to be difficult with Douglas firs. It’s not impossible, but it’s not a good way to propagate this species. So skip the cuttings and try propagating via seed.
If you’ve never tried growing a pine family tree from seed, the process can be fun. You’ll need access to seeds, and I think it’s best to harvest your own rather than buying them.
Photo by Kristine Lofgren.
Find a cone and gently pry it open to find the seeds. Then, you’ll sow those seeds much as you would any other kind.
Your best bet is to grab a young Douglas fir tree at your local nursery. Put it in the ground by digging a hole about the size of the growing container or a bit wider.
Remove the plant from the container and gently loosen up the roots. Lower the plant into the hole you made and set it so it’s upright.
Backfill with soil, then add a bit of water to help things settle and add a bit more soil if needed.
Pests and Disease
There’s no plant species on earth that is totally impervious to pests and disease, but a mature Douglas fir is a pretty tough tree.
Deer don’t feed on mature trees, but they will devour seedlings and young specimens. It’s easy enough to put a fence or cage around them to ensure that you don’t lose your youngsters.
True dwarf mistletoe (Arceuthobium spp.) can develop on the branches and parasitize the tree, reducing growth and causing needle loss. Remove any mistletoe you see.
Young trees will often have resin blisters on the bark. This is nothing to worry about, it’s totally normal.
Pests
In general, if you keep Douglas fir tree healthy, you probably won’t have to deal with any insect pests.
Even if something comes along to nibble on your tree, it will be able to withstand a bit of disturbance.
If you’re growing young Douglas firs, you need to watch for strawberry root weevils (Otiorhynchus oratus).
The brownish adults lay eggs in soil and when the larvae hatch, they burrow down to feed on the roots.
Douglas fir beetles (Dendroctonus pseudotsugae) are mainly a problem in the tree’s native range.
They tend to target trees that have been weakened by disease, other pests, or environmental conditions.
The adults are black and rust colored, while the larvae are cream.
Symptoms include frass or a sawdust-like material at the base of the tree. You might also see holes in the bark, and the needles of an infested tree will turn rust-red and start dropping.
What if I told you that you could meet all your gardening needs with captured, cached or recycled water? Not only will this lower your watering bill, but you’ll be able to reduce water waste by recycling water and using it as much as possible. Here’s why you need to employ water conservation practices in your home garden.
One drop of water has been through so much, recycled endlessly through billions of years. The water we use now is the same water used long before we ever existed. But sadly, we do not treat this water with much respect.
As a regenerative gardener, it pains me to see how much water we waste. We are so generously supplied with rainfall and we don’t take the time to save this water for a not-so-rainy day. Ideally, we should all be storing this water for future use rather than overloading our storm sewers!
One of the main components of my upcoming book, The Regenerative Garden, focuses on water conservation and catchment systems and how to use them in your own garden. I want to share a little bit about that with you today!
This post will cover…
Why is Water Conservation Important?
The total amount of water we have in the world is finite. With so much of it becoming polluted and unusable as drinking water, we need to start using it more responsibly. As gardeners, thinking about water conservation is our responsibility and a major step in creating a regenerative garden.
For over 25 years, I’ve lived in Vancouver which is known as a temperate rainforest. Normally, it has a lot of rainwater that cycles through. But as of lately, drought has entered that cycle and I’ve noticed a significant change. Yes, we are still “raincouver” with six months of solid rain, but we’ve never had these types of drought conditions before.
Since rainfall is lessening, the demand for water has gone up. The municipal systems that were developed to cache water are not large enough to provide the water we need. Wildfire season is now a new normal which calls for a high demand for water and we don’t have the catchment size to help put out the fires.
Australia and California deal with a lot more water catchment issues, but saving water is more and more important no matter what climate you’re in. Even us, in a place known for its rainy weather, need to think about water storage as a part of their home garden.
We can’t focus solely on the amount of water in our area, but instead on how we can catch it and use it for future use. From our environment, we can acquire naturally without needing to tap into our municipal water supply.
Let the Rain Fall Down!
Where do you begin with water conservation? It’s about embracing the rainfall we do have and using it to our advantage. A good place to always start is with your downspouts. Most downspouts are being redirected into sewage water or stormwater instead of being redirected into the land.
Every time we take our water and direct it into the streets, we’re taking it away from our yard and the streams. Instead of going into our land, we’re wasting good water and reprocessing it to use through our garden hose later.
Normally, the water would filter through the land and run back into the streams. Plants are used to being supported from the sky and now we’re changing that!
So, embrace the rain. Redirect your downspouts into water catchment systems like rain barrels and water cisterns and make them multi-faceted.
Rain barrel
How Safe is Roof Runoff for Garden Plants?
When it comes to using roof runoff, many people are concerned about how safe it is to use in the garden, especially when watering vegetables. All in all, it depends on your roof.
Solid, non-porous roofs work best for water collection, such as metal roofs. Just keep in mind that a galvanized zinc roof might have additional zinc which can stunt growth or cause leaves to curl.
Tile and shake roofs, or wood roofs, left untreated are completely safe to run off and use in the vegetable garden.
Asphalt or rubber roofs should be avoided as they can be high in anaerobic bacteria and petroleum that we wouldn’t want to use on our vegetables but can use on non-edible plants.
We still want to use all water and let our soil and plants filter it. They work as great biofilters and are the best natural way to filter water.
If you’re concerned, you can get your water tested. Mainly think about where you will be using it, how it filters, and maybe consider changing your roof material the next time you undergo renovations.
Rain garden
Water Catchment Systems for Your Garden
Water conservation isn’t about using only one water catchment system. The more and more systems you build, the less you rely on external sources to water your gardens. My own garden is a multi-faceted system designed to catch as much water as possible. Here are some of the best ways of saving water in your own home.
Olla water catchment system
Rain barrel: redirects water from downspouts and the home into a catchment container that can be used for future irrigation.
Olla water catchment system: unglazed terracotta pots are buried in the ground and filled with water. They then slowly irrigate when the surrounding soil and plants reach for it.
Rain gardens: water is redirect to a basin filled with plants that love moisture and use their biofilters to filter the water. Upper swales have drought tolerant plants with deep roots to get groundwater when they can.
Wicking beds: a giant self-watering container, the base of the container has a impermeable barrier to hold water below the plants. It’s often fed by overflow spouts.
Self-watering planters: a pot designed to with a reservoir to hold excess water below the soil. As they need it, plants can reach below with their roots and wick up water.
Self-watering planter
You can find all of these projects in my upcoming book, The Regenerative Garden. I take you step-by-step on how you can easily DIY these own water catchment systems in your garden. Alongside water conservation practices, I provide plenty of projects to help build a self-sustaining, resilient garden for today’s world.
If you’re looking for ways to explore water conservation at your own home, be sure to pre-order your copy today!
More Posts About Water Conservation
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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When you’re planning your garden, you have to know how much space to give to each plant.
Sure, the seed packets usually recommend how far apart to grow, but how deep will the roots reach?
Is my raised bed deep enough? What about the leaves? Will they grow so tall that they shade the neighbors?
Beets (Beta vulgaris) are typically considered a fairly small crop, but as with many things in life, there are exceptions.
Big, giant, huge exceptions. They can actually grow quite large. Or super small. Totally confused?
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Most table beets are similar in size, but sugar beets and mangelwurzel can be massive.
And there are some table beets that can be downright petite. And then there are the leaves aboveground.
So, if you’re interested in learning about beet sizes in all their varying glory, stick around. We’re going to cover the following:
Beet Root Sizes
So, how big can beets be? I know it’s the most frustrating answer, but “it depends.” Let’s look at the details:
For most home gardeners growing standard varieties, you can expect roots to reach one to three inches in diameter and two to three inches long for round varieties.
The leafy tops typically grow 12 to 18 inches tall with a spread of six to eight inches wide. But as you’ll see, there’s quite a range depending on variety and growing conditions.
Sugar beets and mangel are, by far, the largest of the beet family.
The Guinness Book of World Records states that the heaviest sugar beet weighed in at 52 pounds 14 ounces, though growers have reportedly grown larger ones without having been certified by Guinness.
Some accounts claim the largest ever at 156 pounds! That’s larger than many adult humans!
The longest variety, including the spindly taproot and not just the main part, was reportedly recorded at 322 inches. That’s longer than four mattresses laid end to end.
Mangelwurzel regularly grows up to 40 pounds and six feet long. I’ve had them grow nearly that large myself, so it’s not an unusual occurrence.
The bottom line is that beets are capable of growing exceptionally large.
But let’s talk about the average size in the garden, particularly for gardeners growing table beets. While these can grow pretty large as well, most of them are more of a medium size.
The long-time favorite ‘Detroit Dark Red’ grows to about three inches in diameter.
By the way, if you want to grow this particular cultivar, the roots are super dark red and deeply flavorful. I always end up coming back to it.
Okay, so that covers the root, but what about the leafy tops? How big these grow also depends on the cultivar.
Generally, you can assume the larger the root, the larger the leaves will be, but that’s not always the case.
Let’s go back to chunky ‘Bull’s Blood.’ The leaves on the mature plant can grow up to 18 inches tall. At the same time, petite ‘Early Wonder’ has greens about the same size.
With the exception of larger sugar and mangelwurzel greens, which can grow up to two feet tall, expect most greens to be about 16 to 18 inches tall at maturity.
You can influence this a bit by fostering green growth at the expense of root growth through careful fertilizer applications and pruning.
Now that you know how big beets can get, let’s talk about how much room they actually need to reach those sizes.
Most table beets need eight to 12 inches of loose, friable soil depth for proper development.
If you’re growing in raised beds, aim for at least 10 inches of depth to give them adequate room to expand underground.
Cylindrical varieties like ‘Cylindra’ appreciate the extra depth even more.
Your planting density is one of the easiest ways to control final size. If you want to harvest baby beets for pickling, plant them two inches apart.
For medium-sized roots perfect for roasting, stick with three to four inches. And if you’re going for those impressive, large roots, give them a full five to six inches of space in all directions.
The mature foliage spreads six to eight inches wide, so keep this canopy spread in mind when planning rows.
As a practical example, a standard four-by-four raised bed can comfortably hold 16 to 25 beet plants depending on whether you’re growing compact varieties or larger ones.
If you are growing beets in containers, choose pots at least 10 to 12 inches deep and eight to 10 inches in diameter for individual plants.
How to Influence Growth
To encourage root growth, give the plant what these vegetables need to be happy, like full sun, consistent water, and a bit of food. You can learn more about how to grow beets here.
As mentioned above, give them adequate spacing for the size you want.
Make sure the soil is super loose and rock-free. I grow my beets in raised beds to maximize the size, since I have heavy clay soil.
But if you haven’t been cursed by the soil fairies with heavy clay like I have, you can loosen up your soil adequately using lots of well-rotted compost.
Actually, even if you do have heavy clay, you can loosen it up with well-rotted compost, but plan to do so every year to maintain the looseness, since once the fairies curse you, the curse never lifts.
If you really want to encourage growth and go for super big ones, you’ve got to discourage the plant from focusing on the tops.
To do this, prune back the tops a bit to thin them out. You want to remove about a third to a half of the tops by cutting them down at the base.
Then, feed with bone meal. This encourages root growth rather than leaf growth.
Arbico Organics carries Down to Earth bat guano in four ounce, two pound or 10 pound compostable containers.
Either way, feed right around the time you first plant and then again a month later.
Grow Big, Beefy Beets and Greens
Whether you’re after heaps of greens or piles of roots, or maybe you’re just curious about what to expect when growing these plants, I hope we were able to shed some light on the subject.
Let me know how big your beets are in the comments section below!
When you start digging into flowers that start with N, it’s a lovely surprise just how many there are – and how varied they can be. From familiar garden favourites we’ve grown up with, to more unusual flowering plants from tropical regions, North America, South Africa and beyond, flowers beginning with N offer something for every type of garden and gardener. Whether you’re planting for early spring, enjoying blooms in late summer, or looking ahead to early autumn, there’s no shortage of choice.
List of flowers that start with N
In this guide, we’ve put together a practical and inspiring list of flowers that begin with N, sharing the common name, scientific name, a brief overview of each plant, and the symbolism traditionally associated with them. Whether you’re after a splash of colour, sweet fragrance, or a dependable low-maintenance plant, you’ll find plenty of beautiful options here to suit every growing season and style of garden.
Nandina (Nandina domestica) – Heavenly Bamboo
Not technically bamboo, but loved for its berries and foliage. Symbolises prosperity.
Narcissus (Daffodil)
The true national flower of Wales and one of the most common flowers in UK gardens. Blooming from bulbs in early spring, these cheerful yellow or white flowers symbolise rebirth and hope.
Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
Perfect for containers and hanging baskets, these edible flowers thrive in poor soil with little water. Bright reds and oranges offer a bold splash of colour. Symbolises patriotism.
Navarretia (Navarretia)
Often called pincushion plant, produces small flowers in soft blues and purples and prefers full sun and well-draining soil. Symbolises determination.
Nemastylis Gracilis – Celestial Lily
Sometimes known as Celestial Lily, this dainty perennial has elegant, star-shaped flowers in soft blue with a delicate centre. Symbolises fleeting beauty.
Nemesia (Nemesia strumosa)
Sweetly scented small flowers in various colours. Ideal for containers and rock gardens with good drainage. Represents fun and spontaneity.
Nemophila (Nemophila menziesii) -Baby Blue Eyes
Delicate spring annual with pale blue petals and white centres. Symbolises innocence.
Neoregelia (Neoregelia carolinae)
One of the fireball bromeliads from tropical regions, loved for vibrant colours. Symbolises passion.
A dainty wild orchid flowering in late spring. Symbolises rarity.
Nepeta (Nepeta Mussinii) – Catmint
A perennial herb with aromatic, grey-green foliage and clouds of purple flowers from late spring right through the summer months. Symbolises happiness and relaxation.
Nerine (Nerine bowdenii)
Elegant red flowers and pinks bloom in early autumn. Great for borders in full sun. Symbolises endurance.
Nerium Oleander
A striking deciduous shrub that grows in cooler areas (it’s evergreen in warmer climates). Grown for ornamental purposes, it offers fragrant flowers in pinks and whites. Symbolises caution and beauty.
Nettle-Leaved Bellflower (Campanula trachelium)
Also known as bats-in-the-belfry, this charming plant blooms with purple bells in early summer. A great option for wildlife-friendly gardens. Symbolises gratitude.
New Guinea Impatiens (Impatiens) – Busy Lizzie
A brilliant low-maintenance plant for partial shade or part sun. Vibrant blooms are produced all through the summer months. Symbolises motherly love.
Nicotiana (Nicotiana alata) – Flowering Tobacco
Tall plants with star-shaped flowers and evening scent. Ideal for late summer. Symbolises reflection.
Nierembergia
Pretty, low-growing blooms from South America. Perfect for edging and pots. Symbolises gentleness.
Nigella (Nigella damascena) -Love-in-a-Mist
With its dreamy lacy foliage and starry blooms, Nigella adds whimsical charm to borders. An annual flower that’s perfect for late spring to early summer. Symbolises harmony and love.
Night-Blooming Cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) – Queen of the Night
This unusual plant blooms for a short period at night with dramatic white flowers. Symbolises mystery and fleeting beauty.
Night-Blooming Jasmine (Cestrum nocturnum)
Not a true jasmine, but once evening falls, the sweet fragrance from the white flowers is incredible. Enjoys full sun or light shade and free-draining compost. Symbolises romance, mystery, and sensuality.
Night Phlox (Zaluzianskya ovata)
From South Africa, this little beauty releases a sweet fragrance at dusk. Suits well-drained soil. Symbolises quiet attraction.
Nightshade – Ornamental (Solanum rantonnetii)
Starry purple blooms with yellow centres. Symbolises protection.
Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)
A hardy shrub from North America, valued for its textured bark and variety of colours in foliage. Symbolises resilience.
Nolana paradoxa (Nolana paradoxa) – Chilean Bell Flower
Trailing blooms ideal for baskets, thriving in sandy soil and drought conditions. Symbolises adaptability.
Nuphar (Nuphar lutea) – Yellow Water Lily
Native to North Africa and Europe, with bold yellow flowers and a bright yellow centre. Symbolises renewal.
Nymphaea (Nymphaea) – Water Lily
Classic water lilies are showstopping flowers for ponds and still water. The floating white, pink or red flowers thrive in full sun. A symbol of peace and enlightenment.
What are your favourite flowers starting with n?
As you can see, flowers beginning with N offer a great way to add interest, texture and colour to your garden, whether you’re after fragrant flowers, wildlife appeal, or something a little different. From late winter through early spring, right into summer and beyond, there’s a perfect choice here for every space and soil type.
If you fancy experimenting with different flowers this year, why not try one or two new “N” blooms?
I’m just buzzing about this honey soap because it was easy to make, and it comes with a bit of a secret. While the soap looks like a sticky block of honey straight from the honeycomb, it’s actually an aloe, cucumber, and carrot soap that I’ve mixed with manuka honey and scented with citrus. The trick to this attractive honey soap is how to get the honeycomb look without buying an expensive mold.
Homemade Honeycomb Soap
Materials
Make It!
The bubble wrap is what gives the soap its honeycomb look. I have seen some tutorials that suggest putting the bubble wrap in the bottom of the mold, then pouring the soap on top, but this did not work for me. The bubble wrap floated into the center of the soap, so I removed it and tried again. The following method works beautifully for me each and every time!
By pressing a piece of small-celled bubble wrap onto the top of the soap, the organic shape begins to take form. Cut the bubble wrap in rounds or geometric shapes that mostly fit into the molds, leaving a bit of extra plastic as a tab so you can easily grab and pull the bubble wrap off when the soap is dry. You will want to do this step first, as it will need to be done quickly when the soap is poured.
Cut up the soap base into 1-inch cubes and add them to the Pyrex measuring cup. Melt the soap base in a microwave or in a double boiler so that it is just melted. You want the soap base to melt but not cook. Remove the soap base from the microwave or off the double boiler before it starts to steam. There may be a few chunks left, but that is just fine. Those will melt if you keep stirring the soap base for a few minutes after removing it from the heat.
When your soap base is melted, add in the honey and essential oils to the soap mix. I like to add a bit of manuka honey to this soap for its antibacterial and healing properties and to add a delicate honey scent. The orange essential oil adds more sweet and bright scent that makes this soap deliciously decadent.
Pour the soap into the silicone mold and gently press a piece of bubble wrap on the top.
I like to use some geometric forms rather than rounds because I think it looks like broken off pieces of honeycomb. I like the organic, imperfect final product that it produces.
On a side note, the original post that was published here for Handmade Honey Soap was submitted as a guest post from an author and the publisher of a handmade soap book. I’m disappointed to say that the reviews of the book have been poor, both online and for this recipe in particular. I have decided to remove the original post and recreate a recipe that can be successfully made by beginners and experienced soap-makers alike. I hope that you enjoy this project!
Try ‘Gold Nugget’ hens and chicks in your garden and containers
I try not to get swept up in new plant fads, but every once in a while something is introduced that just cannot be ignored. ‘Gold Nugget’ hens and chicks is one of these plants. As soon as I saw it, I knew that I must have it. My first few plants came from a friend’s display at a garden show in late winter. I was mesmerized by the deep golden hues accented with contrasting shades of maroon and vibrant orange-red on artfully arranged rosettes of thick succulent leaves. This hardy horticultural star was meant to sparkle, and I could not wait to try it at the Miller Garden.
Knowing that rainy Pacific Northwest winters are tough on hardy succulents, we put ‘Gold Nugget’ in frost-proof terra-cotta pots with very well-drained potting mix. A light top layer of fine gravel kept weeds out and prevented soil from splashing onto the leaves. The plants thrived and displayed brilliant color through winter. As the days lengthened and the weather warmed in spring, the colors softened to chartreuse with hints of red, a palette that persisted through the growing season. With the arrival of cool autumn weather, the intensely vivid hues returned.
Tips for growing ‘Gold Nugget’ hens and chicks
Even though hens and chicks can tolerate some dry weather, keeping the plants regularly watered and fertilized during the growing season ensures vigorous growth and multiple “chicks.” ‘Gold Nugget’ is a relatively robust cultivar, but it does not like competition. It is best used alone in a container or combined with smaller, less vigorous succulents or alpine plants. Excellent drainage is a must in the Pacific Northwest, but in other regions, where winter rain is less frequent and the summer temperatures are hotter, average coarse potting soil should suffice, or plant it in the ground in a well-drained spot.
‘Gold Nugget’ will have the best color when it is grown in a bright, open location. Full sun is difficult for gardeners in my region to provide during our gray winters, but a minimum of four to six hours of sunlight during fall and winter has proven to be enough for our plants to put on a colorful show. This year, we are experimenting with growing hens and chicks on vertical surfaces with other succulents, making a colorful mosaic. The amazing cold hardiness and ease of cultivation make this selection a choice garden plant for almost anyone.
‘Gold Nugget’ hens and chicks
Sempervivum ‘Gold Nugget’ Zones: 3–8 Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; moderately moist to dry, well-drained soil Native Range: Africa and Eurasia
Yes—this low-growing sedum now comes in red! New Plant for 2026: Red Angelina™ sedum
If you love the spiky yellow leaves and creeping form of ‘Angelina’ sedum (S. rupestre ‘Angelina’, Zones 5–9), just wait until you take Red Angelina™ sedum for a spin. This exciting new introduction has the same great form but in cherry red. A stunner trailing over the edge of containers and hugging the ground along a bed edge, Red Angelina™ struts its spectacular color for 10 months of the year, turning a bit green during the heat of summer. Give it a sunny location, sit back, and watch the show.
Angelina sedum courtesy of Chris Hansen
Red Angelina™ sedum
Sedum ‘GarSol2’ Zones: 3–9 Size: 4 to 6 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide Conditions: Full sun; average to dry, sharply drained soil Native Range: Europe and Turkey
Plant Sources:
Richie Steffen is a contributing editor and the executive director of the Miller Garden in Seattle.
‘Gold Nugget’ hens and chicks photo courtesy of Richie Steffen; Red Angelina™ sedum courtesy of Chris Hansen; Illustration by Elara Tanguy
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Provide a natural growing habitat for your plants with VegTrug’s durable and versatile Cold Frame. A spacious and visually attractive cold frame provides the perfect microclimate environment to extend your growing season. The wood frame has 6mm double insulated and shatterproof polycarbonate that safeguards your plants from extreme weather conditions.
Sun Joe Cordless Telescoping Pole Chain Saw
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24-VOLT SYSTEM: 24V 2.0 Ah IONMAX lithium-ion battery allows for up to 32 cuts of 4″ x 4″ pine on a single charge.
Gardener’s Supply Company Summerweight Fabric Plant Cover
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Ideal for summertime pest control, this garden cover effectively screens out Japanese beetles, potato beetles, cabbage worms, leaf miners, carrot flies and most vine borers. It transmits 97.6% of the light to your plants without allowing heat build-up, and it provides cold protection down to 41° F, to extend your growing season.
Following catastrophe, it is human nature to look to our natural environment for small but life-affirming signs of hope: birdsong, sunlight breaking through the clouds, or a small seedling sprouting amid rubble. Where these indications offer glimpses of better things to come, fireweed ushers a groundswell. This aptly named plant is typically one of the first species to colonize the landscape succeeding moments of epic disturbance. After the London Blitz from 1940 to 1941 and the eruption of Mount St. Helens in 1980, carpets of fireweed emerged following the initial destruction, and the plant regularly appears after major forest fires.
The presence of this wonder is hard to miss. Tall, mauve, candelabra-like inflorescences appear throughout summer, borne in a stately fashion on stems up to 6 feet tall and complemented by thin, willowy leaves. Its impressive spread is facilitated by rhizomes, but its prolific seed production (each plant can produce up to 80,000 seeds per year) is the prime reason it has achieved pioneer species status, in addition to its ability to adapt to a wide range of soil types and environments.
Keeping fireweed in check
I love this plant for its brash charisma and showiness. Although it is typically associated with restoration, it evokes the same exuberant mood as garden phlox (Phlox paniculata and cvs., Zones 4–8). It has earned somewhat of a reputation for thuggishness, but it can be slowed down with regular deadheading. This will encourage repeat blooms and discourage seeding. Additional precautions can be taken to limit its rhizomatous spread by holding back on soil amendments in the surrounding areas.
Tips for growing fireweed
Given its size and flashiness, I like to treat this plant as a focal point, surrounding it with companions such as little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium and cvs., Zones 3–9), hairy penstemon (Penstemon hirsutus, Zones 3–9), or white sagebrush (Artemisia ludoviciana and cvs., Zones 4–9), which all go well with fireweed’s stature and do not compete with the form of the blooms.
On larger sites, such as open meadows where space is not at a premium, I am content to let this plant run wild for a spell, as more competitive plants will eventually take its place. That said, I’m not convinced that there can ever be too much of this unique species in my garden; it’s proven to be quite beneficial to pollinators such as bees and butterflies.
The fibers, seeds, and stem leaves have myriad uses, as demonstrated by the traditions of indigenous peoples of North America. If you’d like to add this show-stopper to your garden, fire away. Sow seeds in late fall, or in early spring after cold stratification in a low-nutrient, well-drained soil medium. Alternatively, you can take cuttings from live plants in early spring, prioritizing growth tips that do not have flowers on them.
Fireweed
Chamerion angustifolium Zones: 2–7 Conditions: Full sun to partial shade; average to damp to poor, rocky soil Native Range: Temperate Northern Hemisphere
Fireweed Plant Sources:
Marissa Angell is an award-winning licensed landscape architect and founder of Angell Landscape Architecture, based in New York.
Fireweed photo courtesy of gapphotos.com/Jonathan Buckley. Illustration by Elara Tanguy.
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Lee Valley Mini Garden Shear Set
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These shears have a distinctive finger rest that not only aids grip but allows greater freedom of movement than a conventional handle design. They have a durable powder-coat finish to resist rust and wear, and a simple clasp that locks the spring-action stainless-steel blades closed. The set includes one pair of round-nose shears measuring 5 1/2″ overall with 1″ blades for cutting stems up to 3/8″ in diameter, and one pair of 6 1/2″ needle-nose shears with 2″ fine-tip blades for precise work.
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Like many excellent chefs, Samin Nosrat is also a keen gardener. When she’s not recipe testing or cooking for friends or, as is often the case these days, traveling to promote her new cookbook Good Things, she can be found puttering around the courtyard garden that she shares with three other households in Oakland, CA. (I wrote about their unique communal living situation in the 2022 book Remodelista: The Low-Impact Home.) Every neighbor pitches in when it comes to gardening chores, “but I tend to drive the bus,” she admits.
“I’ve been gardening avidly for about 15 years now. My interest in it grew out of both my cooking career and my love of flowers and friendships with Sarah Ryhanen [of Saipua] and [floral designer] Nicolette Owen. And over the years, as I’ve spent more time in the garden, it’s occurred to me that many of my maternal ancestors were also extraordinary gardeners,” she shares.
“For many years I was hesitant to start gardening because I was a renter and felt like, ‘What’s the point? I’ll have to leave everything behind when I move!’ Then, a master gardener taught me that gardening’s real takeaway is the experience, and that even the best gardeners have tons and tons of failures. This has been a great gift to me, as a recovering production-oriented perfectionist. I love that gardening gives me a daily opportunity to slow down and pay attention, to get my hands dirty, and to learn how to look at my surroundings.”
Below, Samin takes us on a tour of her courtyard garden, a place for gathering together and growing things. (Curious about her home kitchen? Head over to Remodelista for a peek.)
Above: The courtyard is where the neighbors come together for shared meals. Above: “I don’t have much room in the front of my house and there is a lot of shade, too, so I took a maximalist approach and tried to pack in as much of a cottage garden here as I could,” she says.”Lots of moody oxalis, hellebores, and heuchera, as well as different types of ferns, including a beautiful bronze fern…. I’ve got chocolate akebia climbing the front, and added a clematis this year. There are a couple different abutilons, a few silver-leafed Japanese camellias, and some oak leaf hydrangea. I also always have Minoan lace and Dara Daucus planted, and then I add annuals throughout the year.”
After the holiday hustle, many of us are looking forward to some downtime and cozy nights at home. However, the winter months are also the perfect time to plan travels for later in the season, and Sue Webel (@musabasjoosue) in Canton, Connecticut has given us the perfect dose of inspiration. She is sharing highlights from last year’s Garden Fling, an annual event that brings together gardeners who actively share on social media. Circle back to Part 1, if you missed it yesterday, or keep scrolling to see more of Sue’s sensational highlights.
Pictures are from The Garden Fling which was held this year in Memphis in June. I believe the hardiness zone is 8a. The Garden Fling is an annual garden communicators event open to anyone who has a public social media account devoted to gardening. For more information you can visit the website or any of the associated social media accounts. The majority of these photos were taken in private gardens. The 2026 Fling will be held in July in Buffalo, NY.
I believe this sculpture is by Dale Rogers, an artist in Haverhill, Massachusetts.
It should come as no surprise that the gardens on this Garden Fling tour were full of fabulous, tropical foliage plants. Here, a ‘White Aspen’ dracaena (Dracaena ‘White Aspen’, Zones 10–12) in a large concrete pot plays off nicely with ‘Florida Moonlight’ caladium (Caladium ‘Florida Moonlight’, Zones 8–11) planted below.
Several hardy bananas (Musa basjoo, Zones 5–10) make this border vibrant and verdant.
A unique waterfall and pond was the focal point of this garden.
I have never seen mukdenia (Mukdenia rossii ‘Karasuba’, Zones 4–8) grown this well!
This infinity edge lap pool was elevated over the back garden at the far end.
What a creative way to recycle empty wine bottles.
This unique art deco home and garden is listed as a historically important property in Memphis.
Many sculptures were located throughout the garden and beautiful pool area.
Thank you so much for sharing these gorgeous photos with us, Sue! Winter is a great time to gather inspiration for the garden season to come, but it’s also the perfect time to gather inspiration for garden travels. Your submission has been the perfect encouragement to buy those tickets, book that flight, or schedule that tour.
Did you visit any gardens last year? Near or far, we would love to see the public and private gardens you had the opportunity to tour in 2025. Follow the NEW directions below to submit your photos to Garden Photo of the Day!
We want to see YOUR garden!
Have photos to share? We’d love to see your garden, a particular collection of plants you love, or a wonderful garden you had the chance to visit!
You can also send 5–10 photos to [email protected] along with some information about the plants in the pictures and where you took the photos. We’d love to hear where you are located, how long you’ve been gardening, successes you are proud of, failures you learned from, hopes for the future, favorite plants, or funny stories from your garden.
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Niteangel Natural Wooden Insect Hotel, Garden Insect House for Ladybugs, lacewings, Butterfly, Bee, Bug
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The insect nest box provide a safe environment where garden creatures can shelter, hibernate and lay their eggs, the insect house can also keep insects from entering your warm room. The insect hotel makes it easy to find and observe fascinating creatures. the butterfly, bees and ladybugs can use this product as habitat. Dry wood and Bamboo can be home to many insects such as ladybirds and lacewings which eat aphids and help keep your plants pest-free. the insect hotel improve the growth of plants in your yard by attracting beneficial insects. The iron design on the top can keep the insect house from rainwater. Let the insect house have a longer useful life and make the insects more comfortable. If you only have a balcony or yard, the hanging garden shelter is ideal as it provides a choice of suitable habitats in a small area.
The Crevice Garden: How to make the perfect home for plants from rocky places
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A crevice garden replicates the environmental conditions of mountain tops, deserts, coastlines, and other exposed or rocky places on earth. These striking garden features provide perfect conditions for the plants native to these far-off places, bringing the cultivation of these precious gems within everybody’s reach.
Another way to create the illusion of spring indoors is with flowering bulbs.
Hardy bulbs are available in nurseries and garden centers starting at the end of summer.
When shopping, choose those that are firm and weighty, with crisp, papery skins. If they feel spongy, brittle, or lightweight, keep looking.
It’s best to store your purchases in an unheated, dry location with good air circulation.
I keep mine outside in the shed, in a single layer in a rubber bin with a piece of metal screening for a cover.
The cover deters mice. Rodents love to snack on bulbs during the lean months of winter – except for daffodils. You may have to weigh the cover down with bricks to keep it in place.
Three of my favorite flowers to force are daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips.
Daffodils
Typically yellow, trumpet-shaped daffodils are hardy in Zones 3 to 9, where they prefer full sun and well-draining, sandy loam. They readily naturalize and are seldom disturbed by rodents.
‘February Gold’ is a miniature, frost-resistant cultivar that comes up right through the snow at a height of eight to 12 inches.
The ‘Blue Pearl’ cultivar requires a chilling period of 14 weeks and then blooms in about two weeks. You’ll love the sweet fragrance and dense clusters of violet-blue blossoms.
It is essential to mimic the winter cold with a chilling period.
Alternatively, buy pre-chilled varieties and skip this step. However, please note that when forced indoors, they are unlikely to bloom again.
You’ll Need:
Shards of pottery or small stones
Small trowel
Water
How To:
1. In early October, line the bottom of each container with pottery shards or stones.
2. Fill the containers with a mixture of mostly potting soil, a handful of peat moss, and about a teaspoon of granular bulb food.
3. Put one type of flower in each pot so watering suits all of them.
Set daffodils halfway down into the soil, pointed side up. Bury hyacinths and tulips deeper, with only the tips showing.
You’ll fit approximately three hyacinths, five daffodils, seven mini-daffodils, or five tulips in a six-inch diameter, standard depth pot, not touching, to allow for expansion.
4. Dampen the soil, but don’t make it soggy.
5. Cover the pots with screening.
6. Place the container(s) in a cool, dark location, such as an unheated garage. The temperature should be 40°F to 45°F.
Chill daffodils and hyacinths for 12 to 15 weeks and tulips for 15 to 17 weeks.
7. Lift the screening to check the pots every seven to 10 days. Moisten the soil sparingly to keep it from completely drying out.
8. After the appropriate chilling period, bring the pots indoors to a sunny windowsill.
9. Once you see sprouts, water until it runs through the drainage holes.
10. When blooming begins, place the containers in bright, indirect sunlight, farther from direct light.
Did you know that trampolines were used to train astronauts? Or that trampolining is an Olympic sport? If ‘just for fun’ wasn’t a big enough reason to get one for your garden, then this might change your mind. Outdoor trampolines are not only a source of endless fun for children, but they also provide effective health benefits. These springy platforms turn play into exercise that builds strength, coordination, and self-confidence.
How do trampolines help a child’s development?
Physical fitness and strength building
Trampolining provides more than entertainment. It’s a full-body workout that engages different muscle groups at the same time. Kids develop core strength, leg muscles, as well as balance, without even realising that they’re exercising. Trampoline workouts are more like fun sessions than structured routines that feel like chores.
Cardiovascular health
The cardiovascular benefits are also quite impressive. Bouncing on a trampoline for only ten minutes can offer aerobic exercise that may require thirty minutes of jogging. This is especially important today when children are spending a lot of time in front of screens.
Motor skills and coordination development
Besides physical fitness benefits, trampolining plays an important part in developing motor skills. Children learn spatial awareness by judging their location in mid-air and timing their movements for a perfect landing. This continuous process of adjustment and calibration of movements aids in improving proprioception, which is the body’s ability to determine its location in space. These skills then transfer to other physical activities.
Psychological and emotional benefits
The psychological advantages of an outdoor childrens trampoline can’t be ignored either. Bouncing is a way of releasing endorphins in the body, which is the “high” or “rush” that the human brain associates with happiness and the suppression of stress hormones. In the case of children who face academic or social struggles in school, trampolining is an excellent way of releasing tension and excess energy. The repetitive motion of bouncing also helps regulate sensory input, reduce overstimulation, and improve focus for children with ADHD symptoms.
Social skills development
Outdoor trampolines are also excellent for socialising. They’re like a magnet to kids, so get ready for the neighbourhood to join in. While bouncing together, they learn to take turns, share space, and create cooperative games.
What to consider when buying a trampoline
Size and shape
Size and shape are the first considerations when selecting a trampoline. Round trampolines range from 8 to 12 feet in diameter, while rectangular trampolines are designed with multiple configurations. The larger models provide room for more jumpers and allow more bouncing space, but they also take up more garden space and usually cost more.
Safety features
Safety features should dominate your decision. Aim for safety enclosures that are padded and stretch out above the jumping surface of the trampoline, secured to the mat, not to the frame. This ensures that children won’t bounce off into the springs and framework, which are common injury points. The padding should be thick, weather-resistant, and firmly secured. The safety enclosure must have tight-meshed net that won’t allow fingers or toes to get trapped.
Weight capacity
Weight capacity also matters. Look for a trampoline rated well beyond the total weight of the users who may be jumping at the same time. This safety margin ensures that the trampoline holds up well over time despite continuous use. Remember that the weight limits take into account not only the actual body weight, but the force generated during bouncing, which can be several times higher.
Frame and spring construction
Frame construction and spring quality have direct effects on both safety and trampoline bounce quality. Galvanised steel frame trampolines are weather-resistant and more durable than painted ones. Thicker gauge steel has better durability. Springs should be rust-resistant and of sufficient length and quality to provide a good bounce without much harshness. Premium models may cost more initially, but they often feature higher-quality materials, superior warranties and longer lifespan.
Maintenance for longevity and safety
Regular maintenance ensures the trampoline remains safe and functional for a longer period.
Do a weekly safety check, looking for tears in the mat, signs of rust or damage to the enclosure, worn springs, and degradation to the padding. It takes only minutes but may save serious injury.
Clean the jumping surface regularly. Use a soft brush or a leaf blower rather than chemicals, which could damage the mat material. If mat becomes dirty it can be washed with a hose and left to dry.
Weather protection prolongs the trampoline’s lifespan. Although they are meant for outdoor use, bad weather conditions can cause them to deteriorate prematurely. Think about using a weather cover during winter or if you’re not using it for an extended period of time. Make sure you use a weather cover that is trampoline-specific and allows for ventilation to prevent the buildup of mould underneath.
Inspect the springs occasionally. Look for rust, stretching, or signs of deformation. Use rust-resistant lubricating sprays if advised, but avoid products that could make the jumping area slippery. Replace springs when they show signs of wear instead of waiting until several of them fail.
Pay attention to the safety net and the padding. UV rays cause these materials to break down over time, and you’ll need to check every season. Check the padding for compression and cracking, and the net for fraying and holes.
Establish and enforce guidelines for trampoline use. Restrict the number of simultaneous users depending on size and age, ban flipping, and always supervise younger children. Make sure children remove shoes, sharp objects, and toys before using the trampoline.
An outdoor trampoline for children provides a unique experience of exercising, learning skills, and simply having fun. Choose one with proper safety features, take good care of it regularly, and you’ll provide a playground in your garden, which can delight your little ones for a long time.
Having a laundry room in your home is a real convenience. You can keep the washing out of the way and deal with muddy clothes without taking over the kitchen. But if you have limited space, a laundry room can become messy and cluttered fast, making daily chores harder than they should be.
Creating an efficient laundry takes a little planning. Smart storage, well-chosen appliances, and thoughtful use of vertical space can help you keep things tidy. Read on for space-saving tips that can help you transform even the most compact laundry into an organised, practical, and stylish room.
Swap two machines for one washer-dryer
In a compact laundry, every centimetre counts. A separate washer and dryer set often eats up valuable space, whether they sit side by side or stack on top of each other. Swapping both machines for a single washer-dryer can free up space immediately and make the layout feel far less crowded.
For most couples or families, an 8kg washer dryer offers a practical balance of capacity and efficiency. It handles everyday loads without taking over the room, which suits smaller homes and apartments. You can wash and dry in one cycle, which cuts down on handling wet clothes and keeps the area tidy.
You can shop for high-performance 8kg washer dryers online or in-store and choose from a wide range of trusted brands. Prices vary across models and features, so it’s easy to find an option that suits your budget without compromising on performance. Most combo units include standard washer and dryer functions, but models can differ in other ways, such as offering multiple wash and dry cycles, delay start options, or energy-saving modes.
Swapping two machines for one offers various advantages. Most 8kg washer-dryers can fit into one appliance footprint, which opens up space you can actually use. That extra room can work well for a slim storage cabinet, open shelving for detergents, or even a small bench for folding. In tighter laundries, it can also improve movement, allowing doors to open fully. The result feels calmer and far easier to manage during busy wash days.
When choosing a unit, consider your lifestyle and laundry habits. Whether you handle large family loads or need a gentle cycle for delicate fabrics, there’s a model designed to meet your specific requirements.
Maximise vertical storage
Another way to save space in a compact laundry is to make full use of vertical storage. Extending cabinets all the way to the ceiling helps capture wall space that often goes unused, while keeping supplies organised and easy to reach.
Shelves and stackable bins also work well for storing detergent, dryer sheets, and cleaning products without crowding the space. These can help keep everyday items accessible and visible.
Install fold-down drying racks
You can also install fold-down drying racks to add drying space without taking over the room. Wall-mounted racks that fold flat keep the area clear while not in use, which suits compact laundries well. Some designs also slide neatly between cabinets, making use of narrow gaps that often stay unused. These racks work well for air-drying delicate items or pieces that can’t go in the dryer. Once clothes are dry, the rack folds away, freeing up valuable space.
Use pull-out storage solutions
Pull-out storage solutions help compact laundries stay organised without clutter building up. Deep cupboards and narrow gaps can feel awkward to use, but pull-out drawers and shelves bring everything into view with one smooth motion. This makes it easier to access supplies without rummaging through the back of a cabinet.
Labelled storage bins work especially well inside pull-out units. Clearly marked bins for stain removers, dryer sheets, extra towels, and cleaning supplies ensure every item has a dedicated place, which helps reduce mess over time. You always know where things go, so putting items away feels quicker and less frustrating.
Labelling matching bins also gives the laundry a cleaner, more put-together look. For a softer or more cohesive style, woven or fabric bins are a good option. They add texture while still keeping supplies organised and easy to reach, even in the smallest laundry layouts.
Hang an over-the-door organiser
An over-the-door organiser is a simple way to add storage without using up floor or wall space. It helps keep clutter off the floor while placing everyday essentials within easy reach.
This solution suits laundries without built-in shelving, where storage options feel limited. You can use it to hold detergents, stain removers, pegs, or cleaning cloths, which keeps cupboards and benches clear. Many designs hang securely without the need for drilling, making them ideal for rentals.
Opt for a neutral palette
Opting for a neutral colour palette can help a small laundry feel lighter and more open, while creating a calm atmosphere in a space dedicated to daily chores. Soft whites, greys, and light stone tones reflect light well, making the room feel brighter and more spacious.
A neutral base also allows subtle contrast through hardware, fixtures, or window trims without overwhelming the space. Pairing white cabinetry with grey or white flooring and simple tile finishes creates a cohesive look that feels timeless and easy to live with.
If you want to switch things up, try adding patterned or textured flooring to introduce visual interest and make the space feel more dynamic. For example, a black-and-white checkered floor can add a bold, classic touch that instantly lifts the room’s style.
Mount the ironing board
Mounting an ironing board in your small laundry can be a real space-saver. Full-sized, free-standing boards can be bulky and take up valuable floor space, but a wall-mounted option stays tucked away while still being easily accessible.
A shallow wall recess is ideal for mounting the board horizontally, and finishing it with a cabinet door keeps it hidden when not in use. This setup not only provides a ready-to-use ironing surface but can also double as an extra sorting shelf for laundry, adding functionality to your compact space.
Even the smallest laundry can be functional and inviting with the right choices. By saving space with multi-purpose appliances, smart storage, and thoughtful design, you can create a laundry room that’s organised, efficient, and easy to use every day.
Alarm systems have had a significant impact on reducing burglary and theft rates, with numbers halving from mid-1990s peaks. Today, one in three UK homes is fitted with an intruder alarm. That number is higher still among businesses, with early warning systems and CCTV seen as key to deterrence and property protection. Combined with mandatory fire alarms and integration with newer smart technologies, residential and commercial alarms are an affordable and effective way to protect your home, loved ones, and business.
Benefits for homes
Deterring crime: Visible home alarm systems deter burglars. Serious residential crimes such as robberies and aggravated burglaries are up to 90 per cent less likely to happen in homes with dedicated alarms and early warning systems.
Enhanced safety and protection: The main role of alarms is to protect loved ones and property. Alarms instantly inform of intrusions, ensuring a swift response by homeowners, police, or both.
Peace of mind: Knowing your home is monitored at all times provides comfort and a sense of safety.
Remote access and monitoring: Most break-ins occur when homes are empty. Some alarm systems provide real-time monitoring via apps and phones while you’re away. Remote access provides instant alerts, ensures easier threat verification (reducing false alarms) and lets you arm or disarm systems from any location.
Save on insurance premiums: Reliable and professionally installed security systems benefit homeowners by reducing insurance premiums.
Integration with smart home technologies: Alarms easily integrate into larger home security systems that also include cameras, sensors, home lighting and electronic locks. Many also work with smoke, fire and carbon monoxide detectors for comprehensive protection.
Benefits for businesses and commercial properties
Protect employees and assets: Employees are your biggest asset, and keeping them safe at the workplace ensures confidence and increased productivity. Alarms combine with CCTV, sensors, and other components for 24/7 monitoring for improved threat detection. They also reduce the likelihood of theft and intentional property, inventory and equipment damage.
Secure restricted areas: Storerooms, manufacturing premises, office space and other areas can be cut off to employees or the general public. Restricting access to authorised persons minimises accidents and injuries, streamlines operations with keyless access and protects sensitive data and intellectual property.
Compliance with fire and security requirements: UK businesses must meet strict fire and security regulations, ensuring employees, customers, and visitors are safe. This also extends to insurance requirements, with reduced annual costs.
Instant response: Unauthorised entry triggers sirens and remote warning systems, immediately alerting security personnel or the authorities.
Operational efficiency: Monitoring systems can record workflow, inform of any issues (such as employee theft), and work with other components, such as pressure monitors and spot detectors, to manage water and gas leaks.
Common types of home alarm systems
Wired intruder alarms
Wired systems are chosen for their reliability, tamper-resistance and consistent operation. Components, including sensors, sirens and cameras, are hardwired to a central control panel powered by your home’s electrical installation, and often backed up by a battery in the event of a power outage. When sensors detect break-ins, they send an electrical signal to the panel, which processes the breach and sounds the siren. Newer systems also relay detected threats to phones or monitoring centres (often via secure landlines), ensuring quick response by the relevant authorities.
Wired systems can cover larger homes and residences, don’t rely on a stable wireless connection, and are immune to hacking. While installation is more complex and costly, often requiring a professional, these alarm systems require little maintenance, providing reliable monitoring and protection.
Wireless intruder alarms
These consist of battery-powered sensors and motion detectors placed on key entry points (doors, windows) that wirelessly communicate changes (such as doors or windows opening) to a central control panel. This sounds a siren and sends notifications via a mobile or Wi-Fi network to monitoring hubs and/or phones.
Wireless systems are generally easier and cheaper to install, are scalable when adding new devices (for instance, in renovations or in rental properties), and easily integrate with smart home technologies such as smart locks and lighting. While cheaper and more flexible, wired systems score higher for reliability and security.
Environmental alarms
Fire, heat and carbon monoxide alarms are mandatory (BS 5839 Standard) in rental homes, and common in new homes, often as hard-wired and interlinked systems for enhanced protection. Fire alarms use sensors for flames and central control panels to trigger alerts and sirens.
Newer, multi-sensor types offer more reliable protection, often with a built-in heat sensor to detect high temperature rises in areas like garages and kitchens. Rooms and areas with gas, oil or solid fuel appliances also require separate CO alarms. These detect dangerous levels of colourless but toxic carbon monoxide fumes, preventing serious health issues and fatalities from poisoning.
How commercial systems differ
Home alarms prioritise basic personal safety and health, providing simplified setups and ease of use. Commercial security systems expand scope and purpose with enhanced security and protection in larger premises with multiple access points and more complex layouts. Security systems here protect assets, equipment, employees, customers, inventory and data with complex installations that are often integrated into centralised building management systems. Most combine both wireless and hardwired components and offer a higher degree of scalability for future expansion.
Besides basic sensors, detectors and sirens, commercial security setups also combine comprehensive CCTV coverage, permanent monitoring for faster response times, and more complex access control.
Additional components and features, including video analytics and passive infrared (PIR) detectors, provide layered monitoring for a comprehensive and proactive approach to site protection. These deliver automated threat detection (trespassing, unauthorised entry, etc.), reduce false alarms and provide real-time data that reveal trends, potential site weaknesses or compliance issues. The sheer complexity and scope also entail professional installation, with costs considerably higher than home security systems.
Modern alarm systems provide a lot more than basic security. By combining early detection, smart integration and professional monitoring, they deliver reliable protection for homes and businesses while improving safety, efficiency and peace of mind.
Selecting the right fabric is one of the most important steps in any dressmaking project. Fabric shops offer an overwhelming variety of options, from cheerful cottons to elegant silks and versatile polyester blends. Each material has distinct properties that affect comfort, appearance, and durability. A poor choice at this stage can compromise the final garment, turning a well-designed dress into something uncomfortable or impractical. Understanding how to navigate these options helps ensure a professional result and a successful project.
Understanding your fabric options
Knowing your fabrics is very helpful in dressmaking. It’s better if you can see and feel the real thing, but if that’s not an option, you can always order some swatch samples. Most well-stocked shops offer this service, allowing you to have a closer look and select the best clothing fabric for your project.
Natural fibres: the classics
Cotton is always the reliable choice in the textile world. It’s breathable, easy to clean, and forgiving for novice sewers. It’s ideal for summer sundresses, casual clothing, and anything that will be frequently washed. The catch? It could wrinkle fast.
Linen offers an effortless, elegant look, provided your definition of ‘effortless’ includes ‘permanently rumpled.’ It keeps you cool, it’s tough, but it will also crease easily. Take the rumpled look or take the iron; there’s no middle ground.
Silk is luxury personified. It drapes exquisitely, has a sumptuous feel, but is usually on the pricier side. Silk is also temperamental: it has to be hand-washed or dry-cleaned, and it requires specialised needles for sewing. Reserve it for formal attire where the extra effort is justified.
Wool isn’t just for winter overcoats. A wool crepe, challis, or gabardine fabric is perfect for dresses and skirts. It’s resistant to wrinkles, has a lovely shape, and can be worn in all seasons. Some wools can be scratchy, so check against bare skin before committing.
Synthetic fibres: practical rebels
Polyester has overcome its reputation for being a material found in 1970s disco suits. Today’s polyester blends provide qualities like wrinkle resistance, easy care, and affordability. Choose a breathable blend, or you might feel like you’re wearing a fashionable plastic sack in warm weather.
Rayon and viscose bridge the gap between natural and synthetic. They have a beautiful drape and feel soft, but are prone to shrinking and losing shape. Make sure you pre-wash them before you invest hours in sewing.
Lycra and spandex blends add stretch and comfort. Even a small proportion like 2-5% will help a rigid fabric feel like it’s moving with you.
What to consider when selecting clothing fabric
Fabric pattern
The pattern envelope isn’t making suggestions for fun; it’s there to prevent a small disaster. If it says “medium-weight wovens with drape,” don’t use stiff denim or airy chiffon. A gathered skirt needs fabric soft enough to gather, and that jacket requires fabric with body for structure.
Purpose of the garment
A wedding guest dress requires a different fabric from gardening overalls. Do you plan to wear it weekly, or have it dry-cleaned once a year? Do you need it to withstand enthusiastic dancing without losing half the sequins? Will you be wearing it on rainy days or indoor events? Your answers will tell you what fabrics to work with, even if it means skipping that fabulous piece of brocade you fell in love it.
Fabric direction
Some fabrics for clothing will have a nap (directional texture), some will have pile (such as velvet and corduroy), or one-way prints. These require more fabric, since all pattern pieces must be placed in one direction. That cute velvet may require 50% more fabric than cotton, for example.
The drape test
The best way to determine this is to hold up the clothing fabric and let it fall on its own. Does it form soft folds or stick out stiffly? Draping is a huge consideration in determining the finished look. For example, a circle skirt with stiff material can look as if it were made out of a lampshade.
Pre-washing: the non-negotiable step
If you don’t like surprise shrinkage, test your fabric exactly as you’ll wash the finished project. Even if it says dry clean only, test it. Yes, this involves cleaning that silk for the dress you’ll never actually dry clean. You should realise it will fall apart in water now rather than after you’ve sewn forty-two darts.
How Much Material Do You Need?
Trust the pattern (mostly). Pattern envelopes calculate measurements based on the width of fabric and size. This is what you start with, but add extra if:
There’s a directional print or nap to the fabric
You’re pattern-matching stripes or plaids.
You’re a beginner (mistakes will happen).
You want coordinating accessories.
Typical fabric widths are between 115cm and 150cm. The wider the width, the shorter the length you’ll need. It’s always important to refer to the requirement chart on the pattern you’re using.
If you’re working with fancy or expensive materials, create a test version in inexpensive fabric first. That way, you can work out all the bugs in fitting and construction before you get to work on a pricey fabric.
Shop with a plan. Take your pattern, your measurements, and your list of supplies with you. While fabric purchased on a whim, for lack of a project, quickly builds a stash that mocks you from your closet, this approach will help you build your stash more systematically.
Selecting garment fabrics is part science and art, part calculated gambling. You’re trying to foresee how the material is going to behave under your scissors, on your body, in your world. Of course, sometimes you’ll be wrong, but that’s what seam rippers are for. If you know more about fibre types and have a clear idea of your needs, you’ll make a better decision and can choose your fabrics with confidence.
Preparing for the arrival of a new baby is one of life’s most exhilarating and, let’s be honest, overwhelming experiences. The excitement is palpable, but so is the ever-growing to-do list. From the tiniest sleepsuits to the most crucial safety equipment, the world of baby products can feel like a vast, uncharted territory.
For new and expecting parents, the goal isn’t just to buy things; it’s to create a safe, comfortable, and nurturing environment for your little one. This is where finding a reliable, comprehensive, and supportive retailer becomes not just a convenience, but a cornerstone of your preparation journey.
Navigating this new landscape requires a blend of practical knowledge and trusted resources. You want quality you can depend on, advice you can trust, and a selection that saves you from endlessly hopping between different stores and websites. Whether you’re nesting in the heart of the UK or raising your family elsewhere, the principles of what makes a great baby supplier remain the same. It’s about finding a partner who understands the needs of a growing family.
In this guide, we’ll walk you through the essential categories of baby equipment and explore the key qualities that define a truly exceptional baby shop, using a leading Baby Shop Switzerland – Baby Products & Equipment Online as a great example of what to look for.
The baby essentials checklist for welcoming your newborn
Before you dive into specific brands and models, it’s helpful to have a clear checklist of what you’ll need. This helps to structure your shopping and ensures no crucial items are forgotten in the whirlwind of preparation. Think of it as a roadmap for your baby’s first year, covering everything from sleeping and feeding to travel and playtime.
The nursery is often the first project. This is your baby’s sanctuary, a space for peaceful sleep and gentle awakenings. Key items include a safe and sturdy cot or bassinet, a firm mattress that fits snugly, and a changing table or mat that’s at a comfortable height for you. Don’t forget storage solutions for all those tiny clothes and baby essentials, as well as blackout blinds to help with daytime naps.
For travel and getting out and about, a reliable car seat that meets the latest safety standards is non-negotiable. Alongside this, you’ll need a pram or stroller that suits your lifestyle, be it navigating city streets or country paths. And of course, a functional and stylish diaper bag is an absolute must-have for carrying everything from nappies and wipes to spare clothes and feeding supplies.
Feeding essentials will vary depending on whether you plan to breastfeed, bottle-feed, or do a combination of both. This category can include a breast pump, sterilising equipment, bottles, and a comfortable nursing chair for those late-night feeds.
For clothing, focus on soft, breathable fabrics like cotton. You’ll need a good supply of sleepsuits, vests, hats, and scratch mittens. Finally, for bath time and care, you’ll need a baby bath or support, soft towels, a gentle baby wash, and a baby-safe nail care set.
Having these items organised and ready will bring a sense of calm and control as your due date approaches.
Choosing your partner in parenthood: what defines a great baby store?
With your checklist in hand, the next step is deciding where to shop. The right retailer can transform a stressful task into an enjoyable experience. A top-tier baby store is more than just a place that sells products; it’s a resource hub that offers expertise, reliability, and peace of mind.
When evaluating your options, there are several key characteristics to look for, many of which are exemplified by the best-in-class retailers like a premier Baby Shop Switzerland – Baby Products & Equipment Online. These stores set a high standard for customer experience and product quality, providing a valuable benchmark for parents everywhere.
First and foremost is the breadth and quality of the product selection. A store that offers a vast range of items, from prams and car seats to furniture and toys, can save you precious time and energy. Look for retailers that stock reputable brands known for their commitment to safety and innovation, such as STOKKE, Cybex, or Maxi-Cosi. Having access to over 60,000 products in one place, as some leading European shops do, means you can compare different options and find the perfect fit for your family’s needs and budget without compromise.
Beyond the products themselves, the service and logistics are what truly set a great store apart. In today’s fast-paced world, quick and reliable delivery is essential. A promise of 24-hour dispatch and free shipping over a certain threshold shows a commitment to customer convenience. Furthermore, excellent customer service is non-negotiable. The best retailers offer personal, expert advice, whether it’s through a detailed website, a responsive online chat, or even in-person consultations at physical showrooms. The ability to speak with a knowledgeable professional can be invaluable when you’re making significant purchases like a car seat. Finally, look for flexible and secure payment options and a fair return policy (such as a 30-day window), which provides the confidence and security you need when making these important investments for your family.
The ‘Big Three’: prams, car seats, and nursery furniture
While every item on your checklist is important, there are three major purchases that require special attention and research: the pram, the car seat, and the core nursery furniture. These are high-value items that will be used daily and are directly linked to your baby’s safety and comfort. Taking the time to understand the options will pay dividends in the long run, ensuring you invest in products that are durable, practical, and perfectly suited to your family’s lifestyle.
When it comes to car seats, safety is the single most important factor. In Europe, look for seats that comply with the latest ECE R129 (i-Size) safety standards, which offer enhanced protection for a child’s head and neck. You’ll need to choose a seat that is appropriate for your baby’s age, weight, and height. Understanding the different stages can be confusing, but a good retailer will provide clear guidance. A well-structured retailer like Baby Shop Switzerland – Baby Products & Equipment Online will often have detailed guides and comparison tools to help you make an informed choice.
Car Seat Stage
Typical Age Range
Key Features
Group 0+ (Infant Carrier)
Birth to approx. 15 months
Rear-facing only, portable, often compatible with a pram chassis to form a travel system.
Group 1 (Toddler Seat)
9 months to 4 years
Can be rear- or forward-facing. Often features a 5-point harness and multiple recline positions.
Group 2/3 (High-Back Booster)
4 to 12 years
Forward-facing, uses the car’s seatbelt to secure the child, provides head and side-impact protection.
Multi-Group (All-in-One)
Birth to 12 years
A convertible seat that adapts as your child grows, offering long-term value.
Choosing a pram or stroller depends heavily on your lifestyle. Do you live in a city with smooth pavements, or in the countryside where you’ll need all-terrain wheels? Do you rely on public transport and need something lightweight and easy to fold? A travel system, which combines a pram chassis with a compatible infant car seat and carrycot, offers fantastic versatility for the first few months. As your child grows, a sturdy but nimble stroller might be more practical. Consider features like the size of the storage basket, the ease of the folding mechanism, and the adjustability of the handlebar. Investing in a quality brand means you’re not just buying a mode of transport, but a durable piece of equipment that can last for years and even for subsequent children.
For nursery furniture, the focus should be on safety, functionality, and longevity. A cot bed that converts into a toddler bed is a fantastic long-term investment. Ensure any cot you buy meets current safety standards, with correctly spaced bars and a non-toxic finish. A changing unit with integrated storage can be a lifesaver for keeping nappies, wipes, and creams organised and within easy reach. As you furnish the room, think about creating a calming and serene atmosphere. Choose a soothing colour palette and invest in high-quality, breathable bedding to ensure your baby has the most comfortable and safe space for rest and growth.
Cultivating a world of wonder: toys, textiles, and tender care
Once the foundational equipment is in place, you can turn your attention to the softer, more sensory aspects of your baby’s world. This is where you can truly start to personalise their environment and support their early development. The items in this category aren’t just about function; they’re about comfort, stimulation, and creating moments of connection between you and your child.
Choosing the right toys is about quality over quantity. In the first few months, a baby’s world is a sensory explosion. They learn through touch, sight, and sound. Look for toys that cater to these developing senses: high-contrast black-and-white cards for newborns, soft rattles that are easy for tiny hands to grasp, and play mats with different textures and attached mirrors. As your little one grows, simple, open-ended toys like wooden blocks, stacking rings, and shape sorters encourage problem-solving and creativity. A well-curated selection of toys from a trusted retailer can provide age-appropriate stimulation without overwhelming your child or cluttering your home.
Textiles play a huge role in your baby’s comfort. From their clothes to their bedding, opt for natural, breathable fabrics like organic cotton and bamboo. Muslin cloths are incredibly versatile and will become an indispensable part of your daily routine – useful for swaddling, burping, and as a lightweight blanket. A soft, cellular blanket is perfect for regulating temperature in the cot, while a cosy sleep bag can be a safe alternative to loose bedding once your baby is old enough. Creating a comfortable and tactile environment helps your baby feel secure and content. Similarly, when it comes to bath time and skincare, choose gentle, natural products free from harsh chemicals to protect their delicate skin, turning a daily routine into a soothing and bonding ritual.
Embracing your new chapter with confidence
The journey to parenthood is a profound and beautiful transformation. While the preparation can seem daunting, every choice you make is an act of love, building a safe and welcoming world for your new arrival. By breaking down the process, starting with a comprehensive checklist, and understanding what to look for in key products, you can move forward with clarity and confidence. The feeling of having everything ready – the cot assembled, the car seat installed, the tiny clothes washed and folded – is a deeply reassuring step on this path.
Ultimately, the most valuable resource you can have is a trusted partner. This might be the supportive community you build, the practical advice you find online, or the reliable retailer you turn to for your essential purchases. Choosing a store that offers a vast selection, expert guidance, and unwavering commitment to quality and service will help make the entire process smoother and more enjoyable. With the right preparation and support, you’ll be perfectly equipped to embrace the adventure ahead, ready to welcome your little one with an open heart and a well-prepared home.
Left to right: cosmos for my grandfather, Ketchup and Mustard™ rose (Rosa ‘WEKzazette’, Zones 5–9) for my mom, and Scentuous™ rose (Rosa ‘TAN97281’, Zones 6–9) for my grandmother
My side garden I started mostly from seed: mint, lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, lantana, grapes
Three of my roses: Neil Diamond (Rosa ‘WEKdereroro’, Zones 4–10), Peace (R. ‘Peace’, Zones 5–10), and a basic red; and peppers (habaneros and jalapeños) for infused honeys
My apple tree with sunflowers
Baby cauliflower from the main garden
Where I start my seeds and grow inside (my dining room window)
